The - New - Yorker June - 24 - 2024
The - New - Yorker June - 24 - 2024
The - New - Yorker June - 24 - 2024
6 GOINGS ON
9 THE TALK OF THE TOWN
Adam Gopnik on Europe’s rightward shift;
healing cashmere; the Gottlieb house;
Welsh stars; new titles from Hypocrisy Press.
ANNALS OF CELEBRITY
Jay Fielden 14 In Search of Lost Time
The strange journey of John Lennon’s stolen watch.
SHOUTS & MURMURS
Yoni Brenner 19 Middle-Age Fantasies
BRAVE NEW WORLD DEPT.
Dhruv Khullar 20 Small Wonder
How will nanomachines change our lives?
LETTER FROM ECUADOR
Jon Lee Anderson 24 The Crackdown
Ecuador’s war against narcos—and itself.
U.S. JOURNAL
Paige Williams 36 Ghosts on the Water
Inside Maine’s glass-eel gold rush.
FICTION
Roddy Doyle 46 “The Buggy”
THE CRITICS
BOOKS
Jerome Groopman 50 Anthony Fauci diagnoses America.
53 Briefly Noted
Adam Gopnik 55 How a philosopher would reënchant society.
ON AND OFF THE MENU
Hannah Goldfield 60 The era of the line cook.
POP MUSIC
Amanda Petrusich 62 Lizzy McAlpine and the curse of virality.
THE THEATRE
Helen Shaw 64 Lucy Kirkwood’s “The Welkin.”
THE CURRENT CINEMA
Justin Chang 66 “Janet Planet.”
POEMS
Peter Balakian 30 “Moonlight”
Joyce Carol Oates 43 “Suite for Voices”
COVER
Adrian Tomine “Eternal Youth”
Sarah Larson (The Talk of the Town, Amanda Petrusich (Pop Music, p. 62) is
p. 10) is a staff writer. She has been con- a staff writer and the author of “Do
tributing to the magazine since 2007. Not Sell at Any Price: The Wild, Ob-
sessive Hunt for the World’s Rarest
Roddy Doyle (Fiction, p. 46) is the au- 78rpm Records.”
thor of numerous books, including the
novel “The Women Behind the Door,” Jerome Groopman (Books, p. 50), a
being published this fall. professor at Harvard and a staff writer
since 1998, writes primarily about med-
Joyce Carol Oates (Poem, p. 43) was the icine and biology.
2024 recipient of the Prix Fitzgerald.
Her latest novel is “Butcher,” and her H. C. Wilentz (The Talk of the Town,
forthcoming story collection is “Flint p. 12) is a member of the magazine’s
Kill Creek.” editorial staff.
Read this digital-only story on the New Yorker app, the best place to find
the latest issue, plus more news, commentary, criticism, and humor.
THE MAIL
GROWTH AND EMISSIONS was also a model for Poe and Dickens.
The only writings that Godwin cites
Idrees Kahloon’s review of the economist by name are nonfiction. (They include
Daniel Susskind’s new book, “Growth,” a memoir by a fugitive Huguenot.) He
succinctly summarizes the debate about gives the impression that he didn’t have
whether we can avert climate catastro a previous structural model in fiction, so
phe while also pursuing economic growth this may be as far back as we can go.
(Books, June 3rd). However, Kahloon’s Aaron Zinger
assertion that, in the U.S., “growth and Tarrytown, N.Y.
carbon emissions have decoupled” is mis 1
leading. Although it’s true that the econ MORE “MAD MAX”
omies of the U.S. and many other devel
oped nations have become more and more I was intrigued by Justin Chang’s dis
digital and serviceoriented, these na cussion of the influences that have shaped
tions and their residents still rely heavily the “Mad Max” films, in his review
on emissionsintensive, environment of “Furiosa: A Mad Max Saga” (The
degrading resource extraction and indus Current Cinema, June 3rd). I wonder if
try. Those activities just occur, increas one of them might be the literary the
ingly, in the developing world (where orist Northrop Frye’s idea of the “drama
they often drive economic growth). of the green world.” For Frye, the green
Ted Lamm world—especially in Shakespeare’s ro
Associate Director, Center for Law, mantic comedies—represents “the tri
Energy, and the Environment umph of life and love over the waste
University of California, Berkeley land.” In “Furiosa,” the eponymous pro
School of Law tagonist begins in an Edenic landscape.
Berkeley, Calif. She is soon taken to a barren wasteland,
1 where the story unfolds. And, through
INCITING INCIDENT out, she is haunted by the hope of being
able to return to the green world.
I really enjoyed Kathryn Schulz’s witty Allan Irving
and insightful essay about suspense (“Wait Swarthmore, Pa.
for It,” May 27th). I’ve been trying to trace
the origins of the modern pageturner As a fan of the first two “Mad Max”
myself, and I think I can take us back a movies, I was happy to read Chang’s ex
little further. Railway fiction comes from tended take on the series. However, I
penny dreadfuls and sensation novels, was surprised that his list of George Mil
which in turn owe a lot to “Frankenstein.” ler’s other notable projects did not in
Mary Shelley wrote that book during a clude “Babe,” a movie about a pig that
series of difficult pregnancies, so that’s a wants to be a sheepdog. (Miller may not
bit more evidence for pregnancy as the have directed it, but he cowrote and co
original suspense story. (Also, the year produced it.) This is a movie that is both
that she started writing it, 1816, the sun heartwarming and technically amazing.
had been mysteriously blotted out from Yes, “Happy Feet” was sweet, but it was
the sky, owing to a faraway volcanic erup more of a oneuse item than “Babe.” I
tion, and nobody knew when it would don’t understand the omission.
come back, a circumstance that must’ve Elmera Goldberg
set a worldwide record for suspense.) New York City
Shelley, in turn, borrowed suspense
techniques from her father, William •
Godwin. He wrote what I think is the Letters should be sent with the writer’s name,
first modern pageturner, “The Adven address, and daytime phone number via e-mail to
tures of Caleb Williams,” which, along themail@newyorker.com. Letters may be edited
for length and clarity, and may be published in
with Godwin’s preface to a later edition any medium. We regret that owing to the volume
explaining how he’d written the book, of correspondence we cannot reply to every letter.
contemporary-gospel group the Adrian Dunn
Singers.—Jane Bua (Carnegie Hall; June 19.)
GOINGS ON ART | If the late performer, artist, and concep-
JUNE 19 – 25, 2024 tualist Ray Johnson (1927-95) was known to you
primarily as a chief architect of Pop art, this
show will come as a revelation—and a relief.
Though in much of his work Johnson’s restless
energy can be inspiring, one can feel fatigued
by his desire to be heard, and noticed. But these
exquisite paintings and collages are meditative:
What we’re watching, listening to, and doing this week. Johnson eschews words and symbols for shapes
that are soulful and calm. And even as some
of the incredible detail he gives to pieces like
To call T-Pain’s journey back to the center of pop culture a redemption “Calm Center” (ca. 1949-55) is eye-boggling,
arc might be underestimating his influence, but in recent years the singer you don’t get lost in Johnson’s bravura hand
so much as you want to be close to the formal
and rapper has become a case study in successful second impressions. distance that haunts the work. Beautifully lit
Once the purveyor of a horny, liquor-infused, Auto-Tuned R. & B., he and laid out, this show is like a well-ordered
was soon deemed gimmicky and regressive. A 2014 Tiny Desk concert dream, filled with care and tenderness.—Hilton
Als (Craig F. Starr; through June 29.)
helped dispel the notion that he couldn’t actually sing; winning “The
Masked Singer,” in 2019, further ratified his performance credentials. HIP-HOP | In 2013, the indie-rap lifers billy woods
These days, he leans into a soulful crooner rebrand—most recently with and Elucid joined forces to become Armand
Hammer, a clear-eyed, thrilling guerrilla duo
more role-playing, on his 2023 album, “On Top of the Covers”—but with a penchant for cutting through nonsense.
he is still most captivating when he’s navigating the tipsy world of strip Taking the name of a man dubbed “Lenin’s
joints and night clubs, even with a voice that’s now sweet and unclouded. chosen capitalist,” they trade complementary
snarky, razor-sharp bars. Elucid, a Queens-born
He plays SummerStage’s Rumsey Playfield, on June 23.—Sheldon Pearce skeptic, can’t help but be blunt, wielding his
bludgeoning voice like a hammer and sickle, and
his raps press ever forward through the beats.
woods, who hides his face in photos, is more elu-
sive; his elliptical verses are built like a labyrinth
of postern doors all leading back to the center
of the maze. Their music plays up the absurdity
of the dystopia it evokes, and their most recent
album, “We Buy Diabetic Test Strips” (2023),
transmits shrugging revelations from inside the
matrix.—Sheldon Pearce (Union Pool; June 23.)
to college and decides not to return to their CLASSICAL | Although it took a while for the gov- making her own belated acting début in an inde-
North Carolina home town, dashing Cephus’s ernment to catch up, people have been observing pendent film about a male artist and his female
hope to marry her. Cephus ducks the Vietnam Juneteenth, a commemoration of the end of slav- models, but she rejects the nudity the role re-
draft and does time in prison, then reluctantly ery in the U.S., since the late eighteen-hundreds. quires. Davis presents a woman who, amid mem-
skips town and heads north, to the coldhearted For the sixth consecutive year, Carnegie Hall ories of neglect and abuse, struggles to find a
streets of New York. Inge and Stori Ayers play hosts a Juneteenth Celebration, in partnership creative space between being ignored and being
a host of characters, giving Cephus’s journey with the Healing of the Nations Foundation. exploited. Made when there were few Black fe-
shades of an epic allegory. But the director The evening features the frequent “Les Mis” male filmmakers, Davis’s starkly symbolic drama
Kenny Leon creates a shallow stage plane, Javert and acclaimed baritone Norm Lewis, the exalts the hard-won breakthrough of self-depic-
all bright, saturated color, more interested Grammy-winning and cap-donning jazz singer tion, of controlling the means of production; it
in horizontality than in depth, making Ce- Gregory Porter, the orchestrator and pianist opens pathways to a future cinema more radical
phus and his tribulations look like a series Joseph Joubert, and the esteemed Chicago-based than itself.—Richard Brody (BAM Rose Cinemas.)
Woo Yun and Steve JaeWoo Choi, and amel sweetness; the ojingeo bokkeum (spicy
a partner, Yong Min Kim, the restaurant squid) is charred and chewy. The colorful
is an homage to South Korea’s “drivers’ banchan include such dishes as a fluffy
restaurants” (kisa sikdang), no-frills estab- rolled omelette, wiggly strips of mung-
lishments whose limited menus, speedy bean jelly, and sweet raw soy-sauce-cured
service, and affordable prices are perfectly shrimp. The sotteok sotteok—skewers of
PHOTOGRAPH BY HEAMI LEE FOR THE NEW YORKER;
tuned to the needs of cabbies on the go. alternating chewy rice cakes and cock-
Like the restaurants on which it’s tail weenies, brushed with gochujang—
modelled, Kisa offers baekban (home- are sticky and savory and perfectly silly.
style, though the word literally means There’s no dessert menu, but after paying
“white rice”) set meals, featuring a cen- the bill you’ll be handed a quarter for the
terpiece entrée rounded out with rice, vintage automatic coffee machine by the
soup, and an array of banchan. Where door, which dispenses your hot chocolate,
C as in Charlie is sleek and stylish, Kisa black-bean latte, or milky coffee into a
is utilitarian, almost austere. It has the paper cup that holds just enough to last
unpretentious patina of a restaurant that’s you a half block beyond Kisa’s cabdriver NEWYORKER.COM/NEWSLETTERS
been there forever, but it is in fact brand fantasy. (Set meals $32.) Get expanded versions of Helen Rosner’s reviews,
new. Restaurantgoers are used to being —Helen Rosner plus Goings On, delivered early in your in-box.
ing, and they have been cast, rather too a grumble in the lion’s mouth, as Ma-
narrowly but understandably, as another cron’s people suspect, or an actual on-
victory for the extreme right—a victory going rebellion. It is one thing to vote
particularly noxious in France and Ger- the far right into power in a relatively
many, where more or less openly neo- powerless institution, and another to
fascist parties won startlingly large shares endorse its governing of France. This is
of the vote. In France, the R.N., or Ras- the gamble that Macron has made.
semblement National (formerly the The result of this summer’s election
THE NEW YORKER, JUNE 24, 2024 9
will depend on how effectively the par- the old-school nor the new-school so- are as far right as Trump is, or as reck-
ties of the far right and the far left can cial democrats, under the leadership of lessly contemptuous of the rule of law.)
form coalitions with the old moderates. Raphaël Glucksmann, the son of the The second general truth is that the
This is harder to do than it might seem. humanist philosopher André Glucks- great divide of European and Ameri-
On the right, the few remaining old- mann, will support for Prime Minister can politics is no longer between left
style Gaullists are deeply divided about the fading demagogue Jean-Luc Mélen- and right—as it was first symbolized in
joining up with the once diabolized R.N. chon, of the populist left party La France the French hémicycle at the time of the
The leader of the Republicans, Éric Insoumise. So Macron believes that he Revolution—but between authoritar-
Ciotti, proposed an alliance with the can emerge if not victorious then at ian, antidemocratic demagogues of both
R.N. and was booted out of his party least in command of a still divided hémi- sides and those who represent, however
the next day. Le Pen’s expected coalition cycle, as the French call the National uncertainly, the upholding of liberal de-
with the still more extreme and openly Assembly, presiding from the center mocracy, pluralism, and tolerance.
anti-Islamic Reconquête! party, led by over “two extremes.” The other animal mouth that Ital-
Éric Zemmour, stalled—to the point Two general truths appear. First, as ians talk about is that of the wolf; to tell
that the leader of the party’s European in the U.S., the rise of the far right can someone “Into the wolf ’s mouth!” is the
list, Marion Maréchal, turned on Zem- obscure the continuity of the center: the equivalent of saying “Break a leg!” The
mour to back the R.N., an act that he largest groupings in the European Par- idea is that it is better to throw yourself
referred to as “the world record for trea- liament will still be of the rational right directly into a crisis than to try to avoid
son,” but which he also desolately rec- and the reasonable left—just as the truth, it. (That’s what actors do.) Macron’s
ognized as “familial.” Maréchal is, among concealed by the antidemocratic Elec- gamble is that to throw yourself at the
other things, Marine Le Pen’s niece. toral College, is that Trump, even now, wolf may be better than waiting for the
On the left, there was an instant is unlikely ever to win a majority of the wolf to come and get you. If he’s right,
agreement to call for a nineteen-thirties- popular vote. (And as Anne Applebaum, Americans might learn something from
style Popular Front, but this idea is al- a historian of the Gulag, has pointed that thought, too.
ready showing strain, given that neither out, none of Europe’s far-right leaders —Adam Gopnik
APPAREL DEPT. on the math test?—and still does, such went up. Each yoga mat was equipped
SOFTER as on a Tuesday night in 2018, when she with a cashmere blanket and a cash-
dreamed about Brad Pitt standing be- mere bag of crystals. Sat Hari recom-
fore her in an outfit made entirely of mended holding a crystal (rose quartz,
green cashmere. to activate love, say, or green amethyst,
“I looked at him and said, ‘What are to release stress and “past traumas”)
you doing? Are you going golfing? You above the heart or the solar plexus.
look like a leprechaun,’ ” she recalled. Auster had everyone lie down for a
the time. A perpetual-calendar chro- ulous ganglia of tiny wheels and le- million.) But all the clickbait posts
about the Lennon Patek, as it had
The watch was a birthday gift from Yoko Ono, along with a tie she knit herself. come to be known, were regurgita-
14 THE NEW YORKER, JUNE 24, 2024
tions that contained few facts. There vested in real estate, Lennon occu- erpool); the flag pin; and the Patek,
was never a mention of who took the pied himself by watching soap operas, in yellow gold, which had a rare and
photo, where it was taken, or even eating bran biscuits and rice, smok- highly coveted double-stamped dial,
where the watch might be. ing Gitanes, and listening to either meaning that both the watchmaker’s
During the long, dull days of the classical music or Muzak. “If I heard and Tiffany’s logos were printed on
pandemic, I decided to see what I anything bad,” he later explained, it. Gruen remembered Lennon being
could find out. Several years went by, “I’d want to fix it, and if I heard any- abuzz over the tie and the pin, a nod
as I traced the journey of the watch thing good, I’d wonder why I hadn’t to Lennon’s fourth anniversary as a
from where it was stowed after Len- thought of it.” green-card holder. He doesn’t recall
non’s death—a locked room in his In the photograph, Lennon, trim talking about the watch. But Lennon
Dakota apartment—to when it was and fit from a macrobiotic diet, wears nonetheless strapped the black lizard
stolen, apparently in 2005. From there, jeans and a loosely knotted striped band onto his wrist when Gruen
it moved around Europe and the watch knit tie adorned with a jewel-encrusted reached for his Olympus OM4.
departments of two auction houses, American-flag pin. The picture was A few other photographs that
before becoming the subject of an on- taken in the Hit Factory, where he Gruen took that week have never been
going lawsuit, in Switzerland, to de- and Ono had been recording “Dou- seen by the public. One shows Len-
termine whether the watch’s rightful ble Fantasy,” his first album in five non at a mixing board with Douglas,
owner is Ono or an unnamed man a years. The room is dim, but he has on who is wearing a recognizable watch
Swiss court judgment refers to as Mr. sunglasses, celluloid horn-rims re- himself, a Porsche Design Chrono-
A, who claims to have bought the cently bought in Japan. Buckled on graph I—stainless steel and coated in
watch legally in 2014. his left wrist is the Patek 2499. black—which Porsche had presented
Having reached its final appeal— In order to find out more about to him and to the members of Aero-
Ono has so far prevailed—the case is the photograph, I tracked down Jack smith in 1976, after the band’s Ger-
now in the hands of the Tribunal Douglas, the noted record producer man tour for its album “Rocks.” Doug-
Fédéral, Switzerland’s Supreme Court, who oversaw “Double Fantasy,” and las told me that he and Lennon later
which is expected to render a verdict sent him the picture by e-mail. He wrist-checked each other. “Although
later this year. Meanwhile, the watch replied right away. “Bob Gruen took I thought his watch was beautiful,”
continues to sit in an undisclosed the photo,” he wrote, referring to the he wrote in an e-mail to me, “I told
location in Geneva, a city that spe- well-known documenter of the sev- John it didn’t have the pizzazz of
cializes in the safe, secret storage of enties and eighties rock scene. my black beauty, and we had a
lost treasures. When I contacted Gruen, who is good laugh.”
now seventy-eight and lives in New
ennon holding up his birthday York City, he had no idea that his fter Lennon’s death, Ono had a
L Patek in the fall of 1980 is one of
the happiest moments captured on
photograph had become the talk of
the horological world or why he’d
A full inventory taken of her hus-
band’s possessions, a document that
film in the final years of his life. That never been given credit for it; he’d amounted to nearly a thousand pages.
summer, he’d begun making music published the image in a book, titled She then put the Patek in a locked
again, during a trip to Bermuda which “John Lennon: The New York Years,” room of her apartment. And there
he’d hoped would help repair the in 2005. But he remembered the night the watch remained for more than
well-publicized strain in his marriage he took the photo—Lennon’s forti- twenty years.
to Ono. Lennon’s “lost weekend”— eth birthday. Since late that summer, I found a clue as to what happened
more than a year spent living in Los Lennon and Ono had been spending next by putting together shards of in-
Angeles with May Pang, a former as- a lot of time in a multiroom studio formation from various members of
sistant who became his lover—was on the sixth floor of the Hit Factory the watch intelligentsia who had all
not that far in the past, and Ono had building, then on West Forty-eighth “heard” that the Patek had been sto-
fallen into an infatuation with an art- Street. “I was one of the few people len. “I think the guy was Turkish,” one
world socialite named Sam Green. (It who had an open invitation,” Gruen said. Another remembered “some-
was in Bermuda that Lennon wrote told me. “They liked to work late.” thing about a chauffeur.” This led me
“I’m Losing You.”) Gruen, who said he was living on a to a 2006 article in the Times about
Lennon had spent the previous “steak-and-Cognac diet” in those days, a man named Koral Karsan (Turk-
five years holed up in the Dakota as showed up after midnight, having at- ish: check), who had served as Ono’s
a self-proclaimed “househusband,” tended the thirty-sixth-birthday party chauffeur (check two) for the previous
raising his son Sean so that Ono, of the singer Nona Hendr yx. “I ten years. Karsan, a veteran member
whom Lennon called Mother, could thought I’d bring John a piece of her of Ono’s oft-shuffled staff—trusted
take her turn at being the decision- birthday cake,” he said. enough that he had full access to her
maker of the music-business enter- When Gruen arrived, Lennon was apartment—had simply gone berserk
prise they’d named Lennono. While enjoying his presents: the knit tie, in December of that year, threaten-
Ono dealt with Beatles headaches, which Ono had made herself (a copy ing to release embarrassing photos
controlled the purse strings, and in- of the one he wore at school in Liv- and private conversations he’d been
THE NEW YORKER, JUNE 24, 2024 15
recording unless Ono paid him two According to a story that Karsan he showed Lennon’s watch to a Turk-
million dollars; he allegedly said that would later tell, Ono—who was ish friend visiting from Berlin named
if she refused he would have her and known to consult psychics—became Erhan G (as he came to be known
Sean killed. worried one day in 2006 that a fore- owing to German privacy laws). Kar-
A tall, square-jawed man with a casted heavy-weather event might san let Erhan G flip through the dia-
thick burr of white hair, Karsan, then endanger some meaningful Lennon ries, including one marked 1980, which
fifty, was arrested. In a series of pre- items, including two pairs of Len- includes Lennon’s final entry. Karsan
liminary hearings in a Manhattan non’s eyeglasses and several New Yorker threw out an idea: he’d give the Lennon
courtroom, he defended himself desk diaries (which he used as jour- Patek to Erhan G as collateral for a
against charges of extortion and at- nals during the last five years of his loan. Erhan G agreed.
tempted grand larceny by claiming, life); she asked Karsan to find a safer One evening in 2013, in Berlin,
as the Times reported, that Ono had place to keep them. Unbeknownst to Erhan G met an executive who worked
“humiliated and degraded him, wreck- Ono, when Karsan was subsequently for a new, much hyped digital auc-
ing his marriage and making him so deported, these items, along with the tion platform called Auctionata. He
nervous that he ground eight of his Patek, followed him. couldn’t resist boasting about the Patek
teeth to the bone.” A letter he’d writ- Ono, who is ninety-one and lives 2499 and the rest of the Lennon
ten to Ono describing himself as her in seclusion in upstate New York, de- trove—some eighty items. In short
“driver, bodyguard, assistant, butler, clined to comment. Of Karsan, Sean order, a dinner was arranged with Ol-
nurse, handyman and more so your Lennon told me, “He took advantage iver Hoffmann, Auctionata’s twenty-
lover and confidant” was also entered of a widow at a vulnerable time. Of eight-year-old director of watches.
into the record. Ono disputed Kar- all the incidents of people stealing “He told me the story of how he’d
san’s claims about a romance, but the things from my parents, this one is gotten the watch,” Hoffmann recalled,
prosecution allowed him to plead the most painful.” of his meeting with Erhan G. “It was
guilty to a lesser charge, and he was Karsan, back in Turkey, was in the strange, but it felt whole and true. It
ordered to return to his native Turkey. market for a house. Around 2009, was credible because of the many de-
tails.” Erhan G, who said that he was
the watch’s rightful owner, per an
agreement with Karsan, didn’t strike
Hoffmann as a man desperate for
money. “He owned a successful busi-
ness and lived in a large apartment in
a building close to Potsdamer Platz,”
Hoffman said. (Erhan G could not
be reached for comment.)
Naughty Therapist
You are grabbing lunch at a Mexi-
can fast-food chain when you spot your
therapist deep in conversation with a
colleague. You start toward her to say
hello, but freeze when you realize that
she is talking about you.
“I know we’re not supposed to have
favorites,” you hear her say, “but in ten
years I’ve never encountered someone
who combines such oceanic depths of
emotion with raw intellectual horse-
MIDDLE-AGE FANTASIES power. Plus, he’s hilarious!”
Her paean continues for five min-
BY YONI BRENNER utes, as she extolls every cranny of your
psyche. “I don’t think he knows that
Sexy Nurse with clients in Malaysia. The agent I’m only charging him one-third my
You are seated on the examination nods with genuine sympathy and says rate. To be honest,” she continues, “I
table when the nurse enters. She’s tall that although he can’t rebook you, per- feel guilty charging him at all. Just his
and raven-haired, with enormous blue haps a pass to the first-class lounge company is payment enough.”
eyes and candy-red lips. She says hello might make up for the inconvenience? Sitting in her office the next week,
with a husky Eastern European ac- Two hours later, you are in a leather you casually mention that you would
cent, which reminds you of a recent armchair sipping small-batch mezcal be open to a pro-bono situation. She
episode of “The Daily” about Polish beside a heap of olive pits while bingeing looks up, nibbling her lip seductively.
elections. As she takes your blood Season 8 of “Top Chef ” on your iPad. “I’d like that,” she says. “I’d like that
pressure, you casually ask her whether The P.A. crackles to life, announcing very much.”
the new centrist government will be that your flight has been delayed an ad-
able to sustain broad support among ditional four hours. A wave of eupho- A Star Is Born
an increasingly populist electorate. ria washes through your body, and you Back at the airport, you are in the
Her eyes flash with delight, and you wonder if this is what heroin feels like. boarding line when you feel a tap on
spend the next three minutes chat- your shoulder. You turn around and
ting knowledgeably—but not obnox- Bad Babysitter are astonished to see the acclaimed
iously—about the challenges facing When you arrive home, you are dis- actor-director Bradley Cooper, a sheep-
emerging European democracies in mayed to discover that not only are the ish expression on his face. “I swear I
the shadow of Russian aggression. kids still up but the sink is filled with never do this,” he says, then asks if
When it’s time to summon the doc- dishes and the dog has shredded the you aren’t the author of that unpub-
tor, she lingers in the doorway for a new throw pillows. You discover the lished novel everyone is talking about.
moment, nibbling her lip seductively, babysitter—an auburn-haired coed And, if you are, would you consider
and says, “You are quite well informed.” from a nearby liberal-arts college—sit- selling him the movie rights for sev-
And it’s true. You are. ting on the floor of your home office. eral million dollars?
When you ask her what happened, You hesitate, lost in his Arctic-blue
Forbidden Layover she crumples, tears streaming down eyes, then tell him that, while you are
You are standing at the United Air- her freckled cheeks. She confesses that flattered by his interest, your Art isn’t
lines counter at O’Hare, having just while looking for your son’s stuffie she for sale, and that a massive interna-
learned that your flight is delayed three stumbled on the manuscript of your tional audience would betray the sa-
hours. The agent taps on his keyboard. unpublished novel, and once she started cred compact between author and
He’s six-three and distractingly hand- reading she found herself so transported reader. He nods, clearly disappointed
some—green-eyed, olive-skinned, and by the finely wrought characters and but also sort of awed.
bearing an uncanny resemblance to dreamlike prose that the world seemed Two months later, you and Brad-
that bad-boy tennis player, Nick some- to melt away. ley Cooper are riding motorcycles to-
thing. You explain why you need to get “I feel like I’m babysitting for Tolstoy,” gether in Jalisco when he asks, almost
home today: it’s your night to pick up she whispers. as an afterthought, whether you might
LUCI GUTIÉRREZ
your daughter from gymnastics, and You gently deflect her praise, saying partner with him on a line of small-
your dog has some weird diarrhea thing that nowadays no one would give Tolstoy batch mezcal.
but your wife can’t take him to the vet the time of day until he amassed twenty “I’d like that,” you say. “I’d like that
because she has back-to-back Zooms thousand followers on #BookTok. very much.”
THE NEW YORKER, JUNE 24, 2024 19
ist James Tour, had developed “molecu-
BRAVE NEW WORLD DEPT. lar machines” that spun like microscopic
drills and were roughly ten thousand
times smaller than the width of a human
SMALL WONDER hair—small enough to puncture and kill
individual cells. Shortly thereafter, San-
How will nanomachines change our lives? tos moved to Houston to join Tour’s lab.
Now in her late thirties, Santos is con-
BY DHRUV KHULLAR genial but reserved, with straight brown
hair, rectangular glasses, and lightly ac-
cented English. She seems like the kind
of person who would be the first to fin-
ish her homework, and the first to help
her peers with theirs. When I visited her
at Rice, this past February, she led me
past microscopes, fume hoods, and amber
glass jugs; the chemicals in the lab gave
off a faintly sweet smell, as though the
walls were painted with banana-scented
varnish. I could see an inflatable T. rex
on top of a fridge, grinning, and a red-
white-and-blue portrait of Charles Dar-
win, modelled on Barack Obama’s 2008
campaign posters. “Very gradual change
we can believe in,” it read.
When we reached Santos’s desk, she
pulled up an image of kidney-bean-
shaped bacteria on her computer. She
explained that, in a petri dish, molecu-
lar machines are tiny enough to enter
bacteria, affix themselves to the inside
of bacterial cell walls, and tunnel through
the tough outer membrane, rupturing it.
The machines are activated by an intense
blue light, which causes them to rotate
millions of times per second—a hundred
thousand times faster than a power drill.
Santos showed me an image of the af-
termath. The bacteria now resembled
shrivelled lumps with angry blisters on
na Santos, a microbiologist at Rice me recently, fury in her voice. “A simple their surface. She looked pleased.
A University, grew up in Cantanhede,
a small city in Portugal that is known as
bacterial infection kills him? I thought
medicine had dealt with that.”
“Let’s see these things in action,” San-
tos said, and led me to a small room on
a biotechnology hub and a source of good At the time, Santos was at the Cen- the other side of the lab. A neon-orange
wine. When she was a child, her grand- tre for Interdisciplinary Research in Paris, biohazard sticker was plastered outside.
father, who bound books for a living, was studying genes that allow some bacteria “Dangerous pathogens in there?” I
an energetic man who often rode his bi- to live longer than others. But after her asked.
cycle around town. But by 2019, his health grandfather’s death she decided to focus She paused longer than I would have
had deteriorated and he depended on a instead on new ways of killing patho- liked. “Mostly mild stuff,” she said. “Just
catheter. One day, he spiked a fever; doc- gens. One problem with traditional anti- try not to touch anything.”
tors found that his urinary tract was in- biotics is that bacteria, which are always We donned lab coats, gloves, and
fected with a highly drug-resistant form evolving, can develop resistance over time. safety goggles. From an overhead shelf,
of Klebsiella pneumoniae, a bacteria that To stay competitive in the arms race be- Santos retrieved two petri dishes that
is commonly found in the gut. None of tween bacteria and biotechnology, San- each contained five beige moth larvae.
their antibiotics could treat it. A few days tos reasoned, scientists might need en- Before I’d arrived, she’d injected the lar-
later, he died. “There was literally noth- tirely new weapons. She read in Nature vae with mrsa, an antibiotic-resistant
ing they could do for him,” Santos told that scientists at Rice, led by the chem- bacterium that can cause devastating in-
fections. Now, using a tiny syringe, she
Scientists in Texas have created “molecular machines” that drill into bacteria. injected the larvae in one dish with a
20 THE NEW YORKER, JUNE 24, 2024 ILLUSTRATION BY JOSIE NORTON
solution containing molecular machines. (Today’s nanomachines are not self- structures. Tour had constructed the mol-
She slid that dish under the glow of a replicating, but A.I. pessimists have pop- ecules in the two-thousands, as a way of
blue light, and I imagined thousands of ularized a strikingly similar thought ex- demonstrating the precision with which
little drills sticking to each bacterium periment, in which an out-of-control nanoscale structures could be created.
and then whirring to life. A.I. turns everything into paper clips.) The drawings looked like stick figures,
After a minute or so, Santos moved In the nineties, a Dutch chemist and each molecule had its own nickname
the dishes to an incubator and took out named Bernard Feringa made another and headgear. One appeared to be wear-
two others, which had undergone the breakthrough: he constructed a mole- ing a crown (NanoMonarch); another
same procedure a few hours earlier. In cule that had the unusual property of had on a graduation cap (NanoScholar).
the first dish, which had been infused spinning continuously in one direction Between them was a molecule with a
with mrsa and molecular machines, the when exposed to UV light. The mole- cowboy hat. This was NanoTexan.
larvae wriggled happily. I watched as one cule’s central element was a carbon axis, We sat down at a long mahogany
climbed on top of another, like puppies and it spun like a pinwheel, generating table. Above us hung a portrait of Tour,
at play. In the second, the larvae that had a small propulsive force. Feringa later sketched in the world’s thinnest known
been injected with only mrsa were described these tiny motors as a crucial solid, graphene. Tour developed a novel
crusted black. Four of them lay flat against step toward realizing Feynman’s vision. production process for graphene, which
the dish, motionless. The fifth rolled In 2016, he shared the Nobel Prize in he hopes could be implemented at scale;
meekly to one side and lifted its dark- Chemistry. “I feel a little bit like the although the much-touted material was
ened head. Then it dropped down, Wright brothers,” he said, after winning widely hyped, it has not yet entered wide-
stopped moving, and died. the award. “People were saying, ‘Why do spread use. (He is also known for engag-
we need a flying machine?’ And now we ing in a rancorous online debate about
few days after Christmas, 1959, in a have a Boeing 747 and an Airbus.” the origins of life.)
A lecture at the California Institute of
Technology, the physicist Richard Feyn-
In 2006, Tour, the chemist at Rice,
built on Feringa’s work to create the
Tour told me about two major devel-
opments in molecular machines since
man considered a future in which mo- world’s first motor-propelled “nanocar,” the twenty-tens, when he began explor-
lecular machines could “arrange the atoms which was roughly the width of a sin- ing their use in medicine. The first in-
the way we want,” creating a vast array gle strand of DNA. He attached four volved the machines’ energy source. To
of possibilities. Such machines might, round formations of carbon—called activate the molecules, his team had ini-
for instance, allow us to “swallow the sur- buckyballs—to an axle and chassis made tially used UV light, which can be toxic
geon,” he said—we could ingest tiny ma- of hydrogen and carbon. When research- to our cells. (Wear sunscreen!) He walked
chines that swim through our bodies to ers shone a UV laser on the molecule, to a bookshelf.
repair faulty heart valves or failing or- the electrons in its central bond jumped “See this?” he asked, holding up a
gans. Feynman’s talk established the con- to a higher energy state and then relaxed brass-colored bullet as wide as his palm.
ceptual foundations for manipulating again, causing the motor to spin, the It was hard not to. “It’s a .50-calibre bul-
matter at the nanoscale—the scale of wheels to rotate, and the vehicle to speed let,” he said. “That’s UV light—it packs
atoms. (If you cut a grain of sand into forward. In 2017, a team led by Tour won an enormous amount of energy.” By at-
half a million slices, each fragment would the first international nanocar race, which taching nitrogen or oxygen groups to his
be about a nanometre wide.) For de- pitted academic labs against one another microscopic drills, Tour’s team had en-
cades, however, scientists didn’t have the in the South of France. (Scientists peered gineered them to instead rotate under a
technology to test the idea. at their creations using a scanning tun- concentrated form of visible blue light.
A turning point came in the nineteen- nelling microscope and cheered them Some newer machines, Tour told me,
eighties, when a pair of physicists in- on; Tour’s achieved an average speed of could be activated with an even weaker
vented the scanning tunnelling micro- ninety-five nanometres per hour.) That light, known as near-infrared. “Near-
scope, which was powerful enough to year, Tour published the paper that infrared is like a .22-calibre bullet,” he
observe individual atoms. A few years caught Santos’s attention. Molecular ma- said. “A tiny little thing.”
later, K. Eric Drexler, then a research af- chines could do more than compete in The second development related to
filiate at M.I.T., published “Engines of nano-Daytona 500s. They could poten- how, and how rapidly, the molecules
Creation: The Coming Era of Nano- tially help deliver drugs to specific points moved. A researcher in Tour’s lab, Cice-
technology,” a book in which he imag- in the body. They could also home in ron Ayala-Orozco, discovered that mol-
ined “nano-assemblers” capable of reor- on dangerous cells, drill holes into their ecules in some medical dyes could be
ganizing atoms. Drexler co-founded an membranes, and trigger a swift and vi- stimulated to oscillate trillions of times
organization to promote the develop- olent death. a second, making them more like jack-
ment and use of nanotechnology, but, at Tour, a fit man in his mid-sixties, is hammers than like drills. Ayala-Orozco
the same time, he worried that without courteous but playful, with salt-and- and his colleagues went on to inject mice
proper safeguards nanomachines could pepper hair that gives him the air of a with millions of melanoma cells and, a
be built to replicate themselves. Drexler more professorial version of Mr. Rogers. week later, billions of molecular jack-
envisioned one apocalyptic scenario in In his office, he pulled out a tray of vials, hammers. About half the mice who were
which they fed on the materials of life each holding different molecules; behind treated became cancer-free.
and turned everything into “gray goo.” them were sketches of their chemical “Say you have a beautiful lawn in
THE NEW YORKER, JUNE 24, 2024 21
do harm. “This potential to create such
new weaponry is not likely to escape the
notice of adversaries,” the authors wrote.
It’s not that our bodies have never en-
countered something as tiny as a nano-
machine: volcanic ash, certain viruses,
and the smallest fragments of pollen and
mineral dust are all roughly on the same
scale. “Humans actually evolved along-
side any number of nanoparticles,” An-
drew Maynard, who leads the Risk In-
novation Lab at Arizona State University
and previously served on the U.S. Na-
tional Nanotechnology Initiative, told
me. “They’re all around us and always
have been.” What’s different about nano-
machines, Maynard said, is that they can
be engineered for specific purposes:
“When you start talking about active
nanomachines, you run the risk—even
if it’s a long-tail risk—of adversely dis-
rupting complex biological systems.”
For the molecular drills being devel-
oped by Tour’s lab, using visible light as
an energy source has both benefits and
drawbacks. Visible light can penetrate
“Sorry to bother you. It’s just that this morning, only a few millimetres beneath the sur-
when I handed you your latte, I specifically told you to face of human skin, which means that the
have a good day and you said, ‘Thanks, I will.’ ” machines are better suited to treating su-
perficial conditions than to fixing prob-
lems deep inside the body. (The near-
• • infrared light used to activate molecular
jackhammers can penetrate a couple of
front of your home and the next morn- tists develop nanoparticles powered by inches; Tour’s team plans to focus most
ing you come out and there’s a big solar energy to use in medical imaging, of its future efforts on those.) But light
mound of dirt smack-dab in the mid- but ambition and greed lead them to ig- usefully serves as a kind of on-off switch.
dle,”Tour said. “That’s because ten thou- nore the technology’s risks. The parti- Tour said that, because the machines re-
sand fire ants have been working all cles, which are self-replicating and guided quire a high intensity for activation, they
night. Go and disturb them and they’ll by artificial intelligence, start to display are unlikely to be triggered inadvertently.
climb all over you.” His fingers scurried emergent properties. They find that the He also argued that they would not be
across the table toward me. “One fire most efficient path to reproduction is to any more dangerous than technologies
ant can’t do much, but thousands? Mil- feed on organic matter, including human that are already widespread. Theoreti-
lions? Now we’re talking.” flesh, and they start buzzing around in cally, he said, you could “hold someone
predatory swarms. (Spoiler: the book’s down and shine a very intense light on
n 1989, J. Doyne Farmer, a physicist at protagonist ultimately infects the nano- them to activate machines inside, but, at
Iwhere
Los Alamos National Laboratory,
Manhattan Project scientists had
bots with a lethal virus, beating the bio-
tech at its own game.)
that point, you might as well just use a
knife.” Other scientists are experiment-
developed the atomic bomb, predicted Molecular machines could prove dan- ing with nanomachines triggered by heat,
that the twenty-first century might see gerous to humans for the same reason acidity, magnets, or sound waves.
the rise of artificial life, which had “po- that they’re powerful against pathogens: When I asked Tour if I could make
tential to be either the ugliest terrestrial natural selection hasn’t prepared us for some molecular machines, I imagined
disaster, or the most beautiful creation them. “Biological systems are not evolved something like a microscopic video game
of humanity.” He worried that artificial to recognize and interfere with (many) in which I could direct tiny robots to as-
organisms could be designed to repro- nanotechnological functions and capa- semble atoms into mini Model Ts. The
duce, or even to evolve new abilities, “thus bilities,” two defense experts argued in actual process was closer to a high-school
creating self-modifying, autonomous the journal Health Security in 2019. The chemistry experiment.
tools.” A dozen years later, Michael experts were less worried about rogue A postdoc in the lab, Bowen Li, ex-
Crichton published “Prey,” a novel about science experiments than about bad ac- plained that the reaction required three
nanobots gone wild. In the book, scien- tors who could design nanomachines to powders: two salts, which he’d synthe-
22 THE NEW YORKER, JUNE 24, 2024
sized before I’d arrived, and a common cles and the biological world of DNA ogy like the laser, there are many others
chemical reagent, which he’d purchased and proteins. Historically, medicine has that never live up to their promise. Di-
online. (Their scientific names were ben- acted through increasingly sophisticated recting the right number of molecular
zoindole salts, which are found in some forms of chemistry: aspirin blocks a machines to the right places, so that they
perfumes, and glutacondianil hydro- pro-inflammatory enzyme; Lipitor in- do exactly what they’re made for and
chloride.) If we mixed the ingredients hibits the synthesis of cholesterol. Con- nothing more, is much easier in a petri
in a solution and heated them to nearly tera sees Tour and Santos’s molecular ma- dish than a living body. Some machines
two hundred degrees Fahrenheit, the chines as part of a scientific movement could have untoward interactions with
compounds would fuse together to cre- to manipulate the building blocks of life the immune system; others may be harm-
ate a hybrid molecule that reacts to mechanically, rather than chemically. ful to mammalian cells. It will probably
near-infrared light. “We’re now at a place where we can in- be many years before the technologies
Li poured precise amounts of each fluence the physics of the cell,” she said. are tested in humans. “There’s a huge
powder into a glass vial, then placed the In the human body, molecular ma- leap between showing something works
vial over intense heat. He squirted in chines could allow obsolete antibiotics in a lab and proving it works in people,”
some ethanol and the concoction turned to become effective again by, for exam- Mihail Roco, a senior adviser at the Na-
a deep purple. A few minutes later, he ple, disrupting the pumps that bacteria tional Science Foundation, who helped
transferred the vial to an evaporator, the have evolved to expel them, or by pene- create the National Nanotechnology Ini-
same kind of machine used to produce trating thick bacterial membranes that tiative, told me. “These nanomachines
condensed milk. We were left with a keep drugs out. A group of researchers could be a new treatment paradigm, but
forest-green goo. at the University of Texas Southwestern the human body is enormously complex.
I raised the vial into the air. The ceil- Medical Center recently showed that Many things we thought would work
ing lights illuminated tiny splatters of their nanoparticles could break down the turned out to be ineffective or toxic.”
slime, which looked almost like ants molecular defenses around tumors; they Still, he went on, “Even if you don’t get
crawling up the sides of the glass. I mar- could also drop off a gene-editing sys- exactly what you hoped for, you often
velled at the simplicity with which the tem, which would then rewrite a gene learn something useful. You advance
microscopic machines had been created, that the cancer uses to evade the immune knowledge that, down the line, could
and at the complexity of the biology they system. Other scientists are trying to de- benefit humanity.”
were meant to influence. velop machines that might one day har- After Santos wielded her power over
“So that’s it?” I asked, turning to Li. vest rare metals from seawater, or extract the moth larvae, we walked together
The process had taken less than half an carbon from the atmosphere. During my through a courtyard on campus. I had
hour, and the ingredients had cost about visit to Rice, I shuttled between build- spent so much time in the laboratory
a hundred dollars. ings dedicated to engineering, cell biol- that I savored the bright sun and the
He looked at me and smiled. “That’s it.” ogy, and clinical care—a sign that dispa- pastel-blue sky. A squirrel scurried up a
rate scientific domains are converging in tree; a bee buzzed by my ear. I thought
THE CRACKDOWN
Fighting drug gangs, a young President
declares war within his own country.
BY JON LEE ANDERSON
T
he Sargasso Sea, a warm, calm runs from late March to early June. Four on a per-pound basis.” A recent issue
expanse of the North Atlantic Native American tribes may legally fish of Marine Policy cited “unprecedented
Ocean, is bordered not by land another two thousand or so pounds, demand” for American eel. Only lob-
but by four strong currents—a gyre. Vast with more than half of that amount ster outranks it in Maine.
mats of prickly brown seaweed float so designated for the Passamaquoddy, who During a favorable market and a
thickly on the windless surface that have lived in Maine and eastern Can- hard elver run, a Mainer may earn a
Christopher Columbus worried about ada for some twelve thousand years. hundred thousand dollars in a single
his ships getting stuck. The biodiverse Maine is the only state with a major haul. Each license holder is assigned a
sanctuary within and beneath the sar- elver fishery. South Carolina has a small quota, ranging from four pounds to
gassum produces Anguilla rostrata, the one (ten licensed elvermen), but every- more than a hundred, based partly on
American eel. Each female lays some where else, in an effort to preserve the seniority. Even the lowest quota insures
eight million eggs. The eggs hatch as species, elver fishing is a federal crime. a payout of six thousand dollars if the
ribbonlike larvae that drift to the Gulf The elvermen sell their catch to price per pound breaches fifteen hun-
Stream, which carries them to the con- state-licensed buyers, who in turn sell dred, which happens with some regu-
tinental shelf. By the time they reach to customers in Asia. The baby eels are larity. Maine is the only place in the
Maine, the larvae have transformed into shipped live, mostly to Hong Kong, in country where a kid can become eligi-
swimmers about the length of an index clear plastic bags of water and pure ox- ble for an elver license at fifteen and
finger, with the circumference of a bean ygen, like a sophisticated twist on pet- win a shot at making more money over-
sprout and the translucence of a jelly- store goldfish. They live in carefully night, swinging a net, than slinging
fish. Hence their nickname, glass eels, tended tanks and ponds at aquaculture years’ worth of burgers. Elvermen have
also known as elvers. The glass eel is farms until they are big enough to be sent their children to college on eels,
barely visible, but for a dark stripe—its eaten. Japan alone annually consumes and have used the income to improve
developing backbone—and a couple of at least a hundred thousand tons of their homes, their businesses, their
chia seeds for eyes. “Ghosts on the freshwater eel, unagi, which is widely boobs. This year, more than forty-five
water,” a Maine fisherman once called enjoyed kabayaki style—butterf lied, hundred Mainers applied for sixteen
them. Travelling almost as one, like a marinated, and grilled. available licenses.
swarm or a murmuration, glass eels enter The American eel became a valu- One frosty evening in April, an el-
tidal rivers and push upstream, pursu- able commodity as overfishing, poach- verman named Sam Glass turned onto
ing the scent of freshwater until, ide- ing, and other forms of human inter- a dead-end road in the state’s northern-
ally, they reach a pond and commence ference led to the decline of similar most coastal region, Down East, and
a long, tranquil life of bottom-feeding. species in Japan (Anguilla japonica) and parked beside a stream. The water was
Elvers mature into adults two to three Europe (Anguilla anguilla). Those spe- about thirty feet wide, with boulders
feet in length, with the girth and the cies are now red-listed as, respectively, across it and trees on the other side. The
coloring of a slimy bicycle tire. Then, endangered and critically endangered. stream feeds West Bay, which leads to
one distant autumn, on some unknown The U.S. has not declared the Ameri- the Atlantic, whose tide swells and then
cue, they return to the Sargasso, where can eel endangered, and fishermen want shrinks the river’s volume every twelve
they spawn and die. to keep it that way. hours. Glass, a tall, reserved fifty-year-
Maine has thirty-five hundred miles In March, 2011, just before elver sea- old with dark, curly hair and a trim beard,
of coastline, including coves, inlets, and son started in Maine, a tsunami in Japan pulled five hand-chopped maple poles
bays, plus hundreds of tidal rivers, thou- decimated aquaculture ponds, driving from the bed of his pickup truck and
sands of streams, and what has been de- the price of American glass eels from carried them down the riverbank. Next,
scribed as “an ungodly amount of about two hundred dollars per pound he fetched a plastic bucket, nylon cord,
brooks.” Hundreds of millions of glass to nearly nine hundred by the season’s coils of rope, two boat anchors, and a
eels arrive each spring, as the waters closing day. The next year, the price fyke net. Unfurled, the net, made of
warm. Four hundred and twenty-five reached one thousand eight hundred pale, fine-gauge mesh, resembled a Chi-
licensed elvermen are allowed to har- and sixty-nine dollars per pound, and nese lantern trailed by two oversized
vest slightly more than seven thousand soon topped two thousand. National streamers, or a mutant sea creature with
five hundred pounds of them during a Fisherman calls glass eels “likely the a barrel-shaped head.
strictly regulated fishing season, which most valuable fish in the United States Glass, wearing waders, sloshed into
36 THE NEW YORKER, JUNE 24, 2024
In coastal Maine, jackpot payouts, fierce secrecy, and transnational poaching have transformed the eel industry.
ILLUSTRATION BY AGNES JONAS THE NEW YORKER, JUNE 24, 2024 37
the water and fastened a rope around lean of the stanchions. Hawks and bald supply. Loughran and Glass augmented
a boulder, securing the barrel, called the eagles were circling, and watching from their own fishing by taking a commis-
tail bag, at the foot of a gentle rapids. tree branches. He finished after sun- sion on each transaction. When I asked
Back on land, he hooked a streamer to down, his exhalations visible in the beam why not sell directly to Hong Kong,
one of the maple poles, which he’d of his headlamp. “That’s about it,” he bypassing the middlemen, another fish-
stabbed into the earth as a stanchion. said, and walked back up the riverbank, erman who overheard the question said,
The streamer now resembled a wing, through the bulrush and thorn. A block “It isn’t done.”
hemmed at the top with tubular buoys of dislodged snow slipped downstream, Glass has other entrepreneurial in-
and weighted at the bottom with chains pinballing through the boulders and terests, including turning a cottage that
and one of the boat anchors. To pull passing beneath a bridge, beyond which he built when he was twenty into an
the wing taut, Glass roped it to a spruce, other elvermen had just finished set- Airbnb property. Aside from a shipyard
then went to work on the other streamer. ting their nets. Glass went home to wait pension, eeling constitutes Loughran’s
The net took shape as an ocean-facing for high water. entire livelihood. He is a gregarious fa-
funnel, hugging the shore. ther of three in his forties who always
The high-tide line showed on the lass grew up in a cedar-shingled wears a baseball cap and, because of a
riverbank like a shadow on a wall. In
about six hours, the water would rise
G house on ten acres near Dyer Bay,
and still lives there today. He keeps fyke
nerve disorder, walks with a cane. When
he was a boy, his father, an eeler, ad-
again, submerging the tail bag and the nets strung up near his apple trees and vised him to get a fishing license in case
bottom half of the wings. Glass was piled in a greenhouse, where he’s been glass eels ever became valuable, never
working to beat the setting sun and to restoring his late father’s lobster boat. expecting a disaster on the other side
harness the pull of the moon. If he had He got burned out on lobstering a while of the world to produce Florida-condo
set a good net, baby eels would swim ago and fantasizes about piloting the money, comfortable-retirement money.
right into his trap. boat to the Bahamas. He prefers eel- In the early boom days of eeling, armed
Elvers avoid strong currents by keep- ing to lobstering, and travelling to al- buyers roamed the coast with aerated
ing to the sides of rivers, the way mice most anything. tanks and a tantalizing amount of bun-
follow baseboards. Glass long ago A couple of years ago, Glass and an- dled cash, paying for elvers straight out
learned to look for “pinch points,” where other elverman, Ryan Loughran, went of the water.
the eels are likely to pass within two into business together as licensed elver The Maine Department of Marine
feet of shore. For the better part of two buyers. They partnered with a Korean Resources now required fishermen to
hours, he cut cord, tied clove hitches, businessman who wanted to stake a sell their catch at a fixed address. Glass’s
positioned the anchors, tweaked the local broker and guarantee a shippable home wasn’t particularly conducive to
handling customers, so he reached out
to the patriarch of a respected fishing
family who lived in a more convenient
location, with a wide gravel driveway
and a stand-alone garage. Glass had
known the patriarch’s wife since grade
school. The patriarch captained a range
of vessels and wore jackets embroidered
with the name of his forty-two-foot
Duffy. “I scallop, I lobster, I eel,” he told
me one night. I wondered what hap-
pens when two competing boats show
up at the same fishing grounds—who
wins? The patriarch said, “Whoever’s
got the biggest balls and the biggest
red knife.” A lobsterman standing next
to him nodded solemnly.
The patriarch agreed to rent Glass
and Loughran his garage as a buying
station. (His name isn’t mentioned here
because he wouldn’t allow it, but he
tolerated my hanging around.) This
year, in late March, they brought in
tanks, aerators, nets, buckets, folding
tables, and a portable scale. In one cor-
ner, near a “TRUMP 2020” banner, they
installed a chest-high tank, which re-
sembled a one-person hot tub. Some-
one chalked “$900” on a blackboard. box, and showed it to me: “Even that book video of glass eels wriggling around
Demand in Asia drives the price, one will cause mass destruction.” in, supposedly, a cup of sake.
but the floor is set locally by a small The patriarch often eats scallops out Years ago, John Wyatt Greenlee was
group of buyers whose names are known of the shell on his boat. He plucked a working on a doctorate in medieval his-
and whose conversations, I was told, baby eel from the tank and swallowed tory when he became intrigued by sev-
are private. Nine hundred dollars per it alive. Glass, who is known for his enteenth-century maps of London,
pound was the lowest opening price in ability to stomach anything, did the which showed images of “eel ships” an-
years. (Loughran had heard that there same, and said, “Not much taste to ’em.” chored in the Thames. The Dutch had
was a “bottleneck” in Hong Kong.) As This was an old trick sometimes per- been selling salted eel to England since
the season progresses, the price climbs formed for nosy outsiders. Eleven years at least the fourteenth century, and now
in twenty-five- or fifty-dollar incre- ago, an elverman downed delivered them live. Call-
ments. Each change is posted in Elver- a live eel in front of a Buzz- ing himself “Surprised Eel
holics, a popular fishing forum on Face- Feed reporter and claimed Historian, PhD,” Greenlee
book. Some fishermen sell early and that it tried to crawl back took his findings to Twit-
low, just to get money in hand. Those up his throat. ter, attracting tens of thou-
who won’t even consider taking less In the human palm, a liv- sands of followers with
than fifteen hundred dollars a pound ing mass of glass eels feels trivia (early Britons could
respond with yawn emojis and exhor- like a cold pile of squirm. pay their rent in eels), cheek
tations to “HOOOLLLDDDD!!!!” as In captivity, they resemble (“Eel on Twitter > Elon
they wait for the price-setters to turn restless black threads, or Twitter”), and activism
on one another. pepper that has learned how (“Eels are also a super-im-
In early spring, there’s little for fisher- to move. Eels enjoy density, portant part of stream ecol-
men in Maine to do other than catch and often cuddle up in piles. With each ogies”). Greenlee told me, “It’s not a
bait herring and prepare boats and drags. scoop of the net, elvers wriggled onto panda, or something big and majestic,
The clam flats are still thawing. Eeling, Glass’s wrist before appearing to leap and it’s not a cute otter. Eels are slimy,
theoretically, bridges the gap between back into the water. Glass said, joking weird, snakelike things. But they’re an
seasons. Glass eels hate turbulence, and a little, “This was the funnest business umbrella species. Saving them means
cold water stupefies them. They seem in the world, but the government doesn’t saving broad swaths of habitat from the
to run hardest under a full or new moon, want to see you have fun or make money. ocean all the way up to the headwaters.”
in warmer weather, which may not come We used to be able to go at it unlimited.” Previous eel obsessives have included
until May or June, by which time the “A free-for-all,” the patriarch said. Aristotle, Pliny the Elder, Linnaeus,
season is nearly over. This year, rain and Licensed fishermen could once set and Freud, who published one of his
snow had left the rivers frothy and high. as many fykes and catch as many glass first papers, in 1877, on eels. (He dis-
Eelers were pulling their nets to avoid eels as they wanted, using a net of any sected hundreds of them in a futile
losing them to the blow. Leaving baby size or type. The patriarch showed me search for clues to how they reproduce.)
eels trapped in churn was “like puttin’ a cell-phone video of someone dump- Contemporary biologists know more
’em through a washing machine,” the ing a funky gumbo of overage back into about the eel’s reproductive system than
patriarch told me. a river, to comply with the state’s lim- Freud did, but the sex life of eels is still
Loughran set up a makeshift bar in its. The price at the time was twenty- a secret that plays out within the pres-
the garage. One night, he invited a bunch two hundred dollars per pound. The surized depths of the Sargasso. Despite
of people over. I walked in to find about eels would have fetched more than numerous attempts, no one has ever
a dozen fishermen, drinks in hand. ninety grand. seen them mate in the wild, or man-
Loughran was sitting behind his scale, aged to document the hatching of eggs
his laptop open. School had been can- ike lobster, eel was popular for its outside of captivity.
celled for the next day, because of an-
other incoming snowstorm. Bottles of
L affordability and protein before it
became an expensive delicacy. In the
The freshwater eel “has a complex
life history, parts of which are still
Bacardi Limón and Skrewball peanut- U.K., elvers are scrambled with eggs. In shrouded in mystery,” Jonna Tom-
butter whiskey were being drained. the Basque country, elvers a la bilbaína kiewicz, a senior researcher at the Na-
In the corner, Glass was running an are fried in olive oil with chili peppers tional Institute of Aquatic Resources,
aquarium net through the holding tank, and garlic. The Scandinavians smoke in Denmark, explained in one of many
cleaning out dead eels and searching eels. The Maori roast them in leaves. The papers she’s written on the subject. Do
for killers. The elver’s mortal enemies Economist once noted that the cooking the larvae live on gelatinous plankton?
include trout and raccoons, but eelers encyclopedia “Larousse Gastronomique,” Marine snow? Where in the water col-
most despise sea lice, fingertip-size crus- published in 1938, contains forty-five dif- umn do they feed? Without this kind
taceans that look as lovely as their name. ferent recipes for eel. (“To kill an eel, of knowledge, researchers are “often op-
The lice bite the eels; the eels die. The seize it with a cloth and bang its head erating in the dark.” In “Under the Sea-
patriarch fished a brown louse from a violently against a hard surface.”) Cock- Wind,” Rachel Carson observed that
garbage barrel, where it had been cling- tail garnishes are typically inanimate (and when the American eel returned to its
ing to the side of an empty Miller Lite non-sentient), but I recently saw a Face- sargassum patch to die it “passed from
THE NEW YORKER, JUNE 24, 2024 39
human sight and almost from human thousand—eighteen pounds, a personal changed our life,” she said, in an inter-
knowledge.” In his book “Eels,” James best. On the Union River, in Ellsworth, view for an oral-history project in 2014.
Prosek, whom the Times has dubbed “a the capital of Down East eeling, fish- “And then let’s look at how it’s con-
kind of underwater Audubon,” calls this ermen were said to have caught more tributing to the rest of the state. We
final swim “among the greatest unseen than a million dollars’ worth of glass paid sixty thousand dollars in taxes last
migrations of any creature on the planet.” eels in a single night. year. That’s enough money to support
For adult eels, the trip often involves The next year, the fishing was still five families on welfare.”
surviving the turbine blades of hydro- so good that one elverman tattooed his Keene, who considered herself a good
electric dams. A Maine elverman named forearm with an eel, dollar signs, and steward of Maine’s natural resources,
Randy Bushey once reported finding “2013,” memorializing a record season told the historian that she had watched
migrating eels “chopped up in perfect, that afforded him, among other things, “a complete gold rush” nearly destroy
one-foot chunks.” Brian Altvater, Sr., a a new four-wheeler. Rural Mainers sea urchins in the late eighties and early
member of the Passamaquoddy Tribe could work their entire lives and never nineties, and that she didn’t want to see
who is working to restore healthy fish see big money, especially all at once, es- the same thing happen to eels or any
runs to the Schoodic River, on the Ca- pecially Down East, where the median other species. “I believe in having a fu-
nadian border, has pushed for the re- household income was about thirty-six ture,” she said. That future already
moval of dams by arguing that “they thousand dollars. seemed compromised by factors unre-
generate very little electricity compared Jackpot payouts, in cash, fomented lated to conservation. Keene described
to the damage that they do to the en- a wild period of interstate elver poach- pervasive drug abuse and a “lot of alco-
tire ecosystem.” ing. Saboteurs sliced their competitors’ holism” Down East, where, as in many
Elvers are the key to eel aquaculture nets. Untended buckets got taken. rural areas, it can be hard to get help.
farming, given the difficulty, as yet, of Thieves would detach entire tail bags (A record seven hundred and twenty-
captive breeding and scalable hatcher- and run off with them. Loughran’s fa- three Mainers died of overdoses in 2022.)
ies. Japan, which now imports two- ther used to have him camp beside their Keene said, “How does a local commu-
thirds of its eel stock, was eying the “honey hole” around the clock. A splash nity hold on just by their fingernails,
American eel as early as 1970. The fol- in the night, or “hootin’ and hollerin’,” you know?”
lowing spring, William Sheldon, a as one eeler put it, was the sound of Responsible fishermen don’t disap-
young employee of the Maine Depart- fishermen throwing one another into prove of rules; they simply want more
ment of Marine Resources with a new the drink. “There were just hundreds of of a say in making them. Regulators
degree in wildlife management, em- people poaching,” Darrell Young, a were worried about the American eel’s
barked on a study to see if the state’s prominent elverman, told a filmmaker. decline, but fishermen were seeing el-
elver numbers could support a fishery. Another, Rick Sibley, said that eeling vers in what Keene called “Biblical”
He found more than enough, and in a “didn’t bring the community together— numbers. Eelers wondered if the regu-
report that is still referenced today, he it tore people apart.” lators were perhaps looking in the wrong
detailed his observations along with By 2014, the state had imposed its place, or conducting their census on
one of his fishing inventions, the “Shel- quota, capped the number of elver li- nights when eels didn’t “go.” Keene said,
don trap.” (A net with a mesh size censes, limited eelers to two nets, banned “Just because they didn’t go doesn’t mean
“somewhat smaller than ordinary win- cash transactions (buyers must pay with they’re not there.” No one seemed to
dow screening” appeared to work best.) checks), and implemented a swipe-card know exactly how many elvers there
Sheldon also described how to harvest, system to monitor eelers’ individual were, or whether any decrease in pop-
hold, and transport elvers without kill- hauls in real time. The regulations were ulation was caused by overfishing or
ing them. The document was founda- devised in collaboration with the At- more properly attributable to the tur-
tional to the fishery that exists today. lantic States Marine Fisheries Com- bine gantlet and other hazards. Jason
mission, a long-standing interstate body Bartlett, a Maine Department of Ma-
hen Maine’s elver season starts, that works with federal agencies to rine Resources biologist who special-
W every March 22nd, eelers pray
for warm weather. Some toss a coin in
maintain a sustainable industry. Poach-
ing quieted down. Fishermen who had
izes in eels, told me that he is increas-
ingly worried about a swim-bladder
their chosen river, for luck. A couple of let their license expire kicked them- parasite that messes with an eel’s buoy-
days before the opening in 2012, the selves when, in 2018, the price of elvers ancy: “If they can’t get off the bottom,
year after the tsunami in Japan boosted peaked at twenty-eight hundred dol- they’re going to die before they get back
prices, the temperature reached the low lars a pound. Now it was possible to to the Sargasso.” The U.S. Fish and
eighties, far above average. Julie Keene, get back in only through a state lottery. Wildlife Service, in its most recent sig-
a veteran eeler from Lubec, at the north- A fourth-generation sardine packer, nificant assessment of A. rostrata, ac-
eastern tip of the contiguous United Keene started fishing glass eels decades knowledged a decline but indicated that
States, got a sunburn and fourteen glass ago, when it paid barely twenty dollars “the American eel population is not
eels. That time of year, the typical num- a pound. After the price spiked, she and subject to threats that would imperil its
ber was zero, because the rivers were her longtime boyfriend were able to continued existence.”
usually still full of ice. Within a couple buy two new trucks, plant an orchard, The A.S.M.F.C. has never increased
of days, she had caught about forty-five and build a barn and a garage. “It’s Maine’s over-all quota. Individual quotas
40 THE NEW YORKER, JUNE 24, 2024
are not made public, and fishermen re-
veal their number about as quickly as
they give up their favorite fishing spot.
Some of those who remember the un-
regulated days bristle at any limit (“Fish-
ermen always grumble,” one elverman
told me), but they were especially infu-
riated when the lottery was introduced,
in 2013, and their quotas stagnated while
the state admitted newcomers. Keene
said, at the time, “How is that reward-
ing someone that’s been in this fishery,
that breathes that fishery? That makes
their own gear, that is dependent on it,
that understands it, that respects it? I
still have a license because I obey the
law. How is that rewarding good faith?”
Glass eels have been found in pas- Maine are being tracked very closely, across the Gulf of Maine, and declared
sengers’ luggage at airports in Amster- and it’s our belief that if there are ad- Canada’s Department of Fisheries and
dam and Brussels. In 2017, British bor- ditional elvers entering the supply chain, Oceans a “criminal element” and a “rogue
der agents checked cargo bound for it’s because of the illegal activity that group.” Accusing the agency of “racially
Hong Kong and discovered, hidden be- has been so prevalent in Canada the profiling Indigenous people,” he said,
neath a batch of iced fish, four hundred last two years.” “You can go fuck off.”
and forty pounds of illicitly harvested In Canada, glass eels are the most
elvers. Half were dead. The smuggler valuable seafood by weight. Last year, a ot long after conducting his semi-
had allegedly spent two years traffick-
ing more than five million eels, with a
woman who lived near Hubbards Cove,
in Nova Scotia, was alarmed to wake at
N nal elver study, Sheldon, the Maine
Department of Marine Resources em-
market value of nearly seventy million three in the morning to see men out- ployee, left government service to be-
dollars. He used a warehouse in Glouces- side, in balaclavas, taking glass eels from come a lobsterman. His boat sank, and
tershire as a way station, and the eels a stream. In another incident, a dispute he turned to eeling. He both fished
THE NEW YORKER, JUNE 24, 2024 41
and operated as a buyer, once explain- In court, Sheldon minimized, as de- glass eels, someone posted on Facebook,
ing to a TV news station, “The small fendants do. He claimed to have made, “I smell Fed.” One person liked the com-
man can get into it.” The license plate at most, thirty thousand dollars on his ment: Sheldon.
on his truck read “EEL WAGN.” A sign crime, and expressed shame and regret
in his headquarters, in Ellsworth, said for “poor judgment.” His lawyer re- n a recent night, the patriarch and
“Smoking is permitted here in the shop.
Lying is to be expected. Everyone wel-
quested home confinement instead of
incarceration, arguing that Sheldon was
O his son drove to a back-road bridge
north of Acadia National Park and
come here.” a good, stable person: married for nearly parked downslope on a concrete boat
Sheldon often talked to the media. fifty years, a father of two, a grandfather ramp. The headlamps of their truck il-
He was the one who swallowed a live of four, no prior felonies. Hardships luminated little more than a wedge of
eel in front of the BuzzFeed reporter. were enumerated: a sick father, the sunk flotsam. The only other light was the
In that reporter’s profile, published in boat. Worst of all, Sheldon’s daughter sickly twinkle off a scattering of stars.
2013, we find Sheldon in his sixties, with Deb had killed herself as his case un- As I crossed the bridge on foot, it was
both a flare gun and a 40-calibre Glock, folded. Sheldon told the judge, “I will so dark that I could have walked into
serving bucket-bearing customers at a forever feel like I was responsible.” an elephant.
temporary headquarters set up in a cheap Sheldon was sentenced to six months The men were wearing waders,
motel room. He’s on the phone with in prison and three years of probation—a hoodies, and yellow rubber gloves up
“Chinese guys who wired him $600,000 fitting punishment, the judge said, for to their elbows. One of them flicked
on handshake deals.” The year before, “significant deception” and for helping on a powerful f lashlight. From the
Sheldon had “paid his fishermen $12 to create and clandestinely support a bridge, I watched them traverse an in-
million for elvers (about a third of the black market. His probation ended a hospitable stretch of beach and climb
estimated $40 million paid out in Maine few years ago. He gave up his dealer li- the jagged riprap, moving toward the
over the season).” cense but was allowed to keep fishing, bridge piling where their fyke net was
What few knew then was that fed- and went to work for a Maine-based tethered. The outgoing tide churned
eral agents had launched an interstate company co-owned by Mitchell Fei- between the pilings with the noisy ve-
poaching investigation, called Opera- genbaum, a former Philadelphia law- locity of floodwaters. Grasping one of
tion Broken Glass. Baby eels were being yer who moved to Canada decades ago the tethers, the patriarch waded into
harvested up and down the East Coast to become an eel exporter. Feigenbaum the buffeting rush. He untied one end
in places that banned elver fishing, and had testified on Sheldon’s behalf at sen- of the tail bag and emptied it into a
passed off as having come from Maine. tencing, and tried to differentiate him plastic bait bucket that his son was hold-
Dealers were knowingly buying and sell- from the “rough, tough, mean, nasty, ing. Then he re-tied the bag and se-
ing illicit elvers, learning only too late hard individuals” typical of their indus- cured the tether, and the two of them
that they’d been talking to undercover try. He told the judge, “Our product is returned to the truck.
officers.Twenty-one men were ultimately all going to one place. It’s the Chinese Back home, they found Loughran
charged with trafficking more than five government. State-owned industries are waiting at the garage. It was one-thirty
million dollars’ worth of glass eels. pretty much our sole consumer for this in the morning. Eelers on the Presump-
Sheldon was one of them. By the product. They want it as cheap as pos- scot River, another elver stronghold,
time federal agents raided his business, sible. They will engage in predatory further south, were “slaughtering,”
he was considered the grandfather of practices that would make your head Loughran reported. That meant hav-
the industry in Maine. Sheldon had spin, including a lot of the poaching.” ing a good night.
“cornered the market, basically,” a fel- Although Sheldon remains an in- The patriarch’s son set an aquarium
low-elverman later said. In federal court, fluential figure in eeling, he no longer net over the top of an empty bucket
a prosecutor noted, “By his own pro- takes questions. (He did not respond and strained the first of their sludge.
nouncement and by the consensus of to mine.) He and his supporters blamed The pour revealed sea lice, krill, a nee-
the community, he knows more about “the media” for the death of his daugh- dlefish, and a bunch of twitchy stick-
elver fishing than anyone.” ter—a mother of two, a registered nurse, lebacks, as silver as store-bought fish-
In October, 2017, Sheldon pleaded a Steelers fan who refused to shit-talk ing lures—bycatch, all of which gets
guilty to trafficking two hundred and the Patriots, a smoker who was trying returned to the river. Cupping the net
sixty-eight pounds of glass eels from to quit, an alcoholic who already had. from the bottom, the patriarch teased
states where elver fishing is illegal. “Bill “The various stories about Bill and the the few glass eels into view and plucked
Sheldon not only facilitated a black mar- stress it brought to the family had a them out, the way you’d pick lint off a
ket in illegal elvers—he encouraged it,” negative impact,” one of his defense sweater. He said, “We have to work
the federal prosecutor said, at sentenc- documents said. harder for ours than they do down in
ing. “He didn’t just buy illegal elvers— The Sheldon case left a lot of fish- southern Maine. They don’t get out of
he provided poachers with advice and ermen even more wary than usual. bed for this little bit.” I understood what
equipment. He didn’t just dodge the law Loughran told me, “It’s a fragile indus- he meant when I later saw a video in
himself—he told other people what to try, and bad publicity could be very det- which two eelers struggled to lift a tail
say if they got caught.” The prosecutor rimental to it.” Last year, when I ini- bag so full that they might as well have
told the judge, “This was just greed.” tially expressed interest in writing about been trying to move a body. “Holy
42 THE NEW YORKER, JUNE 24, 2024
centerpiece was a chessboard. After-
ward, Glass walked me out to the green-
SUITE FOR VOICES house and showed me his dad’s lobster
boat, the Don’t Know. He was think-
ing of renaming it the Andromeda. In
SOLITARY the distance we could hear the ocean.
He said, “When it’s real rough, it sounds
If there is no one to hear like a lion’s den.”
the cry is there a When we got back to the house, the
cry that there is patriarch and his wife were there, sit-
no one? ting with Loughran in Glass’s living
room. Loughran told a story about kill-
POEM FOR THE POET’S BIRTHDAY ing twenty-seven rats in one night in
his father’s barn and lining them up as
(Bill Heyen)
evidence of an infestation; the corpses
After Novocain, pain were gone by morning, having presum-
returns in small surges ably been carried off and eaten by other
you might mistake for the life rats. This led to talk of wharf rats, New
it has replaced. York City rats, black widows, brown
recluses, and the redback spiders of
Bill, you’ve always known Australia, but, as inevitably happens
the composing of a poem with elvermen, the conversation re-
is removing tooth from bone turned to eels.
deep-rooted in the bloody jaw Like hunters, elvermen study and
no matter with what mercy, admire the animals that provide their
and precision. livelihood. Glass and Loughran had re-
cently asked Alexa about the lifespan
A YEAR OF TEARS of the American eel, marvelling that
the answer was as many as forty-four
A year of tears years, the same age as Loughran. Be-
& tears in the sky cause eels absorb oxygen through their
we called the road skin, they can skirt a strong current by
to nowhere. leaving the water briefly to climb rocks
& now, the road or scale a concrete dam. They may rest
to the bright shore in a river’s calm pockets, waiting for
we hate for the rising tide to help push them past
rousing hope white water before the next lunar cycle
where there should drags them back.
be none. Loughran told me, “In China and
Japan, there’s whole families that rely
—Joyce Carol Oates on this seed fish for their livelihoods as
well.” (Aquaculture farming has existed
in Asia since antiquity.) On Glass’s tele-
mackerel,” one said. The other said, you ain’t showing nobody that.” Rivals vision, he cued up a YouTube video of
“Oh, my word.” would “set nets around every fucking an eel-farming operation in Taiwan. A
The second pour of the patriarch’s inch of you.” Elvermen don’t like oth- doughy mass oozed out of a machine
bucket writhed with eels—a pound and ers watching their weigh-ins, either. and hit the concrete floor like a dense
a half ’s worth, all told. They moved the Nobody wants the world to know that blob of poo. Glass eels eat nothing—
elvers into their holding tank and pre- he just banked fifty grand. they don’t even have a mouth—but in
pared to wait out the price the way an Several days later, Loughran and the next stage of development, when
investor sits on a promising stock. The Glass brought kimchi (a gift from their they start to resemble garter snakes,
blackboard now said “$950.” It was hard business partner) and fresh crabmeat they can be taught to expect “eel chow,”
to know what kind of payout they could over to Glass’s house. They were mak- often some amalgam of fish proteins,
ultimately expect, given the caginess ing crab rolls when I arrived. Glass oils, and blood. (This garter-snake stage
surrounding pricing and quotas. (Buy- stoked a fire in a woodstove and handed is when glass eels technically become
ers sometimes pay more than the pub- me a Heineken in a jelly jar. We ate elvers, though fishermen almost always
licized rate.) I’d once asked Loughran some dried haddock as he prepared the refer to the two interchangeably.) We
why all the secrecy, and he’d said, “If rolls, which he served on square por- watched a farmer quarter the blob and
you’re pullin’ a hundred pounds a night, celain plates at the dining table, whose drop one of the chunks into a pond. It
THE NEW YORKER, JUNE 24, 2024 43
In Maine, the right conditions must be
simulated. An indoor operation such
as Rademaker’s requires, to start, square
footage, tanks, feeders, pumps, tem-
perature control, filtration, and clean
water flow. As the eels mature, work-
ers continually separate the stock by
size, so that they’ll feed correctly—and
not on one another.
The Maine Department of Marine
Resources assigned American Unagi a
quota of two hundred pounds. Rade-
maker also buys elvers from local har-
vesters. She told me that black-market
fishing is no longer a concern locally
because of the state’s strict regulations
and enforcement, and that eelers po-
lice themselves: “They’ll turn people in
at the drop of a hat.”
American Unagi is headquartered
in a new ten-million-dollar facility at
an industrial park in the small town of
Waldoboro. The company has twelve
employees, one of whom, Liam Fisher,
is trying to turn eel innards into a mar-
ketable condiment. On the day that I
met him, he was carrying a tiny fish-
shaped bottle of prototype behind one
“They say it gets easier after the third demon child.” ear. He produced it like a magic nickel
and squeezed an oily drop onto my fin-
ger. It tasted like liquid fish. Co-work-
• • ers were preparing to run dead eels
through a butterfly machine. The com-
floated. Hundreds of mature eels at- one growing, processing, and selling its pany, which sells fillets and smoked eel
tacked it from all sides. They were large own valuable catch. Establishing such to restaurants and grocery stores, ex-
and ropy, and you could hear them an enterprise would theoretically keep pects to hit a production record of half
smacking. It was hard to believe that jobs and money Stateside, shrink the a million pounds next year.
the baby eels in the patriarch’s garage trade’s environmental footprint, and, Rademaker led me through a labo-
would grow up eating the stuff in this if done right, provide accountability. ratory, where she and her staff moni-
video. “Yep,” the patriarch said, “and then (Rademaker told me that American tor the health of their eels by micro-
we’re gonna eat them.” The U.S. im- Unagi uses no antibiotics or chemicals.) scope. “We look at their gills, we look
ports eleven million pounds of eel an- Aquaculture farming, the fastest- at their skin, we look at their fins,” she
nually, mostly from China. The elvers growing sector of food production, is a said. The company spends two years
that get shipped to the other side of the global industry valued at more than growing each new class of elvers into
world may wind up right back in Maine. three hundred billion dollars. It already processable adults. We stopped in the
provides half the world’s food and is doorway of a room the size of an air-
Isevenncensus
the United States, according to a
conducted in 2018, there are
eel farms—two fewer than there
projected to account for more as the
planet’s human population hurtles to-
ward ten billion in the next couple of
plane hangar, where nearly two million
eels were living in dozens of gurgling,
futuristic tanks. Another half a million
are frog farms. The only land-based eel decades. Twenty million people work glass eels were quarantined. Rademaker
aquaculture operation, American Unagi, in the aquaculture trade, many of them explained, “We keep things super bio-
is in Midcoast Maine. Sara Rademaker, in developing nations. When someone secure, because we have one time of
an Indiana native who studied aquacul- recently asked Loughran why Maine year to get them.”
ture at Auburn University, started the elvermen don’t try to get a piece of the
company ten years ago by test-raising farming, he replied, “You’d need several hen an elver permit is not re-
elvers in her basement. She had been
looking for a fish to farm when she re-
million dollars just to gear up.”
A successful eel farm requires the
W newed, or the licensee dies, a
newcomer gets the slot via the state’s
alized how ludicrous it was that the only careful balance of environmental fac- lottery. “The lottery’s good,” a fisher-
state with a major elver fishery had no tors: warmth, diet, oxygen, pH levels. man named Randy insisted one night
44 THE NEW YORKER, JUNE 24, 2024
in the patriarch’s garage. Loughran the lobster boats were going out, windfall haven’t borne much fruit, but
countered, “You have families that have though lobstering, for some, had started that was all right. “We have a nice lit-
been doing this for fucking genera- to feel like more trouble than it was tle garden, and some chickens and stuff,”
tions, and instead of being able to pass worth. The warming oceans are push- she told me.
on their fucking livelihood they have ing lobsters north, and the industry This fall, not long after she picks
to put it up for a lottery, for anyone has already collapsed in southern the last of her cucumbers, Keene will
and their brother to take a piece of it.” Maine. Last year, the statewide catch turn sixty-six. It pains her to know that
“So, yes, then you end up like the fell to ninety-four million pounds, the state law prevents her from bequeath-
Rockefellers,” Randy, who was getting lowest level since 2009. Fishermen’s ing her elver license to her children or
red in the face, replied. prospects are further hampered by ef- grandchildren. It will, in a sense, die
“He’s disgusted because he wants a forts to erect windmill farms and to with her.
piece of this,” Loughran said. save the planet’s last three hundred When I first rang Keene, she an-
“I’m fuckin’ pissed,” Randy said. and sixty or so North Atlantic right swered with a bark worthy of Olive
A lot of Mainers want badly to win whales, which can get tangled in fish- Kitteridge: “What do you want?” Like
the lottery. “It’s an industry, not a ing ropes. In the patriarch’s garage, a most everyone else Down East, she had
fucking cult.” sternman named Tristan told me, “Kids zero interest in talking to another re-
“Randy, chill.” growing up now, I’d tell them not to porter about elvers. “You get hit over
“It’s like lobstering,” Randy said. try working on the water.” Mainers the head every time you do,” she said.
Down East, a commercial lobster li- whose families have been fishing for The articles always seemed to dwell on
cense is one of the few paths to a generations are pushing their children venality and crime. Keene much pre-
middle-class income. (“It’s not like toward contracting, or trucking—to- ferred talking about the sight of a baby
there’s a lot of accounting jobs around ward land. seal, or that night when she was out
here,” one elverman told me.) Certain Several days ago, I called Keene, clamming alone and sat on a bucket to
lobster permits can be legally trans- the fisherwoman from Lubec. Her smoke a cigarette, and a fox strolled by.
ferred, and they often sell for tens of family has lived in Maine since it was She told me, “It’s not just about how
thousands of dollars. Feigenbaum, Massachusetts. An ancestor, Richard much money you can make. It’s about
the exporter who co-owns the com- Warren, came over on the Mayflower, seeing the alewives trying to get up-
pany that Sheldon went to work for she told me. (“I have my certificate!”) river, and an eagle fishing for them.
after prison, and who once served His progeny supposedly also includes And hearing the river at night. When
on the A.S.M.F.C., has pushed for Ulysses S. Grant, Sarah Palin, and you see millions and millions and mil-
transferrable quotas for glass eels. He Taylor Swift. In addition to pack- lions of elvers, it’s mind-blowing. You
pitches eelers by asking, Wouldn’t you ing fish, Keene’s forebears founded see full moons. You see rings around
like to be able to leave something to community newspapers and served the moon. You see fog. If you see gar-
your grandchildren? in the Coast Guard. Both her grand- bage, you pick it up. You want passage
In Canada, quotas are distributed father and her father were keepers of for all the things that are trying to get
basically evenly among nine compa- the West Quoddy Head Lighthouse, into the lakes to spawn. You want it to
nies. Feigenbaum runs one of them; it a peppermint-striped tower with a be—not ruined.”
controls about twenty-six hundred One night when Keene was about
pounds of quota, according to the De- fifteen, she begged to go out on the
partment of Fisheries and Oceans. water with her grandfather, a lifelong
Some Mainers worry that transfers fisherman with one eye. They put on
could lead to a few entities dominat- warm clothes and crossed Johnson
ing the industry in the U.S., too, and Bay in a skiff, to see how the herring
force formerly independent elvermen were running in a certain cove. Vol-
to work for someone else, for an hourly ume was measured by the hogshead,
wage. “If you could buy up quotas in a cask or a barrel that holds sixty-
Maine, you’d be sitting back like any three gallons.
other corporation, where only a few fog bell and a beam visible eighteen Keene’s grandfather cut the out-
people make all the money,” an elver- miles away, across the Quoddy Narrows. board motor and put a finger to his
man told me. “It would be horrible for Keene’s college degree involved com- lips. Using a cloth-wrapped oar, he
the fishery.” (Feigenbaum told me that puters, but she prefers being outdoors. rowed quietly into the cove. Keene
such fears are “unwarranted,” and that She has dug clams for a living and picks watched, mystified, as he lowered a
elver quotas should be transferrable periwinkles on winter beaches, mak- long piano wire into the water, and
only under certain conditions, mostly ing sure to leave the smallest ones alone, waited. “What was that?” she recalled
related to aquaculture.) giving them the “chance to grow up.” asking him on the way home. “He said,
This year’s elver season closed at She has urged people not to overhar- ‘I could tell how many hogshead of
just over fifteen hundred dollars per vest rockweed, a marine algae that farm- herring there were by how hard they
pound. The elvermen pulled their nets. ers add to their soil. Cherry and apple were hitting the wire.’ I knew I wanted
The alewives were running now, and trees that she planted after the elver to be a fisherman after that.”
THE NEW YORKER, JUNE 24, 2024 45
FICTION
BOOKS
BY JEROME GROOPMAN
S
ome fifty pages into his autobi- and was responsible for countless un- revealing as the similarities, in ways
ography, “On Call: A Doctor’s necessary deaths. So it is telling that that, by the end of the book, test even
Journey in Public Service” (Vi- his memoir is less dominated by recent Fauci’s resistance to pessimism.
king), Anthony Fauci, the former head events than one might expect. Although
of the National Institute of Allergy and most readers will surely first turn to the he title “On Call” suggests that
Infectious Diseases (NIAID), describes
a moment of horror when he and his
part that relates Fauci’s dealings with
the Trump Administration, the forty-
T medicine is not merely a job but
a calling, and Fauci traces the roots of
colleagues realize that the scale of fifth President is only one of six whom this sensibility back to his childhood
the epidemic they are dealing with is we meet in person, and AIDS gets more in Brooklyn. His parents were first-gen-
far greater than previously supposed: pages than COVID. eration Italian Americans, both col-
“Thousands and thousands of people The book thus presents an implicit lege-educated. His father worked as a
had been getting infected before we demand for us to see Fauci’s career pharmacist, and the Faucis—a close-
knew that the disease existed, and they whole, from medical training to retire- knit family, proud of their heritage—
were passing the infections on to oth- ment. When, at the start of this month, lived above his pharmacy. Dedication
ers long before they showed symptoms he was questioned by the House Se- to caring for others was exemplified
of the disease itself.” Later, as the gov- lect Subcommittee on the Coronavirus by Fauci’s father. “Dad was generous
ernment response—of which he is the Pandemic, the Republican firebrand to a fault when it came to accommo-
“public face”—comes under fire, Fauci Marjorie Taylor Greene insisted upon dating customers who could not af-
will be called a murderer. addressing him as Mr. Fauci, rather ford to pay their pharmacy bills,” he
The year is 1985, and a blood test for than Dr. Fauci. “Because you’re not writes. “He kept a running account for
H.I.V. has recently become available. ‘Doctor,’ you’re ‘Mister’ Fauci,” she said. them, much to the frustration of the
By the end of the year, it will be evi- “That man does not deserve to have a whole family.”
dent that, for each of the nearly sixteen license. As a matter of fact, it should Fauci was educated in Catholic
thousand people in the United States be revoked, and he belongs in prison.” schools, initially by Dominican nuns
suffering from AIDS, more than seven Against this absurd charge, “On Call” who demanded achievement and
others are infected but asymptomatic. maintains that Anthony Fauci is a doc- graded students down to a tenth of a
Even if the COVID-19 pandemic had tor first and foremost. point. At Regis, an élite Jesuit high
not occurred, Fauci’s career would still The book is also something of a school in Manhattan, he immersed
have been one of the most consequen- diptych. The resonances between the himself in Greek and Latin. Regis’s
tial and most prominent in American two greatest public-health crises of motto is “Men for Others,” making
medicine in the past fifty years. But it Fauci’s tenure at NIAID are impossible personal gain secondary to public ser-
was the pandemic that made him, as to ignore. Both cases involve asymp- vice, and Fauci notes the school’s spirit
he writes, “a political lightning rod—a tomatic infection, a scramble for tests as a “natural extension” of that of his
figure who represents hope to so many and treatments, public-information upbringing. He went on to a Jesuit col-
and evil to some.” Long renowned as campaigns, and the search for a vac- lege, Holy Cross, in Worcester, Mas-
a clinician, a researcher, and a public cine—miraculously fast for COVID-19, sachusetts, and then to medical school
servant—George W. Bush awarded still unfulfilled for H.I.V. And, each at Cornell, where he graduated first in
him the Presidential Medal of Free- time, he is vilified—first by militant his class.
dom in 2008—he became demonized AIDS activists, later by anti-vaxxers and Fauci joined the National Institutes
as a liar who hid evidence about the anti-maskers, populist Republicans and of Health in 1968, rising through its
SARS-CoV-2 virus, funded dangerous libertarians, and a panoply of conspir- ranks as an infectious-disease special-
laboratory studies, misled Congress, acy theorists. But the differences are as ist and immunologist. He cared for
50 THE NEW YORKER, JUNE 24, 2024
SOURCE PHOTOGRAPH BY JIM WATSON / GETTY; OPPOSITE: TIM LAHAN
Fauci’s account of his career focusses as much on AIDS as on COVID, and comparison of the two crises is revealing.
ILLUSTRATION BY ANDREA VENTURA THE NEW YORKER, JUNE 24, 2024 51
patients with rare autoimmune disor- with HIV received AZT, and 137 re- ing activists of a shared goal was real-
ders, and discovered that low doses of ceived the placebo. At the end of the ized, and even Larry Kramer forged a
chemotherapy and steroids could be study, 19 patients who received the pla- bond with him. Shortly before Kramer
life-saving, because they blunted these cebo had died compared with only 1 died, in May, 2020, he had one last phone
patients’ aberrant inf lammatory re- death in the group that received AZT. conversation with Fauci, which ended
sponses. It was serendipitously perfect Opportunistic infections, such as Pneu- with Kramer saying, “I love you, Tony.”
preparation for studying H.I.V.—so mocystis pneumonia, developed in 45 Fauci writes, “I tearfully responded, ‘I
much so that Fauci describes feeling subjects receiving the placebo, com- love you too, Larry.’ A complex rela-
“the illusion of fate” when the disease’s pared with 24 subjects receiving AZT.” tionship, indeed.”
first victims, mostly young gay men, The drug was clearly a turning point,
began arriving at the N.I.H. Clinical and not long after the publication of auci’s commitment to his work on
Center. “I was trained for years as an
immunologist and an infectious dis-
these results, in a New England Journal
of Medicine article that I co-authored,
F AIDS was such that when, in 1984,
he was offered the directorship of
ease specialist,” he writes. “Here was a I joined colleagues on a panel present- NIAID, a purely administrative role, he
disease that certainly was infectious. ing the results of the clinical trial to insisted on being allowed to continue
It also was destroying the immune sys- physicians, nurses, and other caregiv- doing research and treating patients.
tem and rendering the patients highly ers. During the discussion, a group from He writes of a piece of advice a men-
susceptible to opportunistic infections.” ACT UP barged into the meeting room. tor gave him as his influence increased:
Fauci redirected his efforts from in- I vividly recall how they yelled that “It’s a good rule when you are walking
flammatory diseases to H.I.V. At first, AZT was poison and handed out Kool- into the West Wing of the White
there was no medication to block the Aid to the attendees, a reference to the House to advise the president, vice pres-
virus, and half the admitted patients deaths of Jim Jones’s cult followers. ident, or the White House staff to re-
died of infections or cancer within nine They turned to the physicians on the mind yourself that this might be the
to ten months. During the early years panel, calling us Nazis. This stung; many last time you will walk through that
of the epidemic, I crossed paths with members of my mother’s extended fam- door.” In other words, sooner or later
Fauci at various scientific conferences; ily were murdered in Auschwitz. Hav- there would likely be a choice between
at my hospital, at Harvard, I had been ing worked to care for people with AIDS, sugarcoating unwelcome news and los-
enlisted as an oncologist to care for and having participated in a clinical ing influence, so one should mentally
AIDS patients with malignancies, spe- trial that proved for the first time that prepare to do the right thing.
cifically Kaposi’s sarcoma and lym- a drug could combat the virus, I was Fauci was neither naïve nor cynical
phoma. Fauci became a frequent tar- indignant at the group’s slander. about the ways of Washington. He un-
get of gay activists, who saw that the But this is where one distinctive derstood that politicians were obliged
government was failing them. Larry facet of Fauci’s mentality reveals itself. to grandstand for the press and the
Kramer, in the San Francisco Exam- Although he writes that he was hurt public, and that even allies could oc-
iner, wrote a piece headed “i call you to be called a murderer by Kramer, he casionally make trouble. During a hear-
murderers: An open letter to an in- goes on to say, “Yet, in a strange way, I ing in 1988, Senator Ted Kennedy se-
competent idiot, Dr. Anthony Fauci.” still did not blame Larry. If I had been lectively quoted him in a way that
He accused Fauci of facilitating the in his position, I would have been just implied that a dinner invitation from
deaths of hundreds, if not thousands, as angry.” When activists protested at Vice-President George H. W. Bush
of people with H.I.V. “His rationale the N.I.H., demanding the develop- had made him soft-pedal his demands
for the attack was that I had not de- ment of better drugs than AZT, Fauci for more AIDS funding. Fauci writes,
manded enough money for AIDS,” Fauci made a key decision, bringing a hand- “At the end of the hearing Senator
writes. “He ignored the fact that I had ful of the demonstrators inside to meet Kennedy called me over, put his arm
requested from Congress and the pres- with him. “They were shocked,” he re- around my shoulder, and said warmly,
ident the largest increase in resources calls. “This was the first time in any- ‘Sorry I had to do that, Tony, it was
given to an NIH institute since the fa- one’s memory that a government offi- nothing personal, but I just have to
mous ‘war on cancer’ in the 1970s.” cial had invited them to sit down and keep the pressure on. Anyway, keep up
The first major advance in the treat- talk on equal terms and on government your great work.’ ”
ment of aids was AZT, a drug that turf.” Fauci was able to clarify what Fauci was known for being apoliti-
had originally been tested as a chemo- drug development involved, while the cal and having friends on both sides of
therapy agent. Although AZT was not activists, as he writes, “played an in- the aisle. This, along with his reputa-
effective against tumors, laboratory re- creasingly important role in shaping tion for integrity, bore fruit in both Re-
sults showed it to be a potent inhibi- my thinking and policy in these areas.” publican and Democratic Administra-
tor of H.I.V. I was among several phy- This culminated in an innovative “par- tions. He writes with affection about
sicians who participated in the pivotal allel track” of drug testing that expanded Bush, Sr., who offered him the N.I.H.
clinical trial of AZT for the treatment the availability of experimental treat- directorship—a position he turned
of AIDS patients. Fauci presents these ments for AIDS beyond the rigid con- down, as it would have required him
results succinctly: “Over a twenty-four- fines of clinical trials. to give up hands-on medical care. He
week period in 1986, 145 individuals Ultimately, Fauci’s vision of convinc- worked with Bill Clinton on creating
52 THE NEW YORKER, JUNE 24, 2024
a center devoted in part to H.I.V.-vaccine
research, with George W. Bush on pro-
viding life-saving medication to peo- BRIEFLY NOTED
ple with the disease in the developing
world, and with Barack Obama on com- Long Island, by Colm Tóibín (Scribner). Eilis Lacey, an Irish
batting outbreaks of Zika and Ebola. immigrant in New York whom Tóibín introduced in his novel
And so to Donald Trump. Seeing “Brooklyn,” returns in this deeply felt but resolutely unsenti-
Fauci’s expressionless face during mental sequel. The book, which takes place in the nineteen-
the President’s pandemic press confer- seventies, two decades after the events of the earlier install-
ences, I often wondered what he was ment, opens with Eilis—now a mother of two living on Long
thinking. Once, while listening to Island—learning that her Italian American husband has im-
Trump, Fauci moved his hand to his pregnated another woman. The news sparks Eilis’s return to
forehead in disbelief. That seemed to her home town, Enniscorthy, where she has not been for some
answer my question. twenty years, and where she reconnects with a man with whom
Fauci mentions this incident in his she had a dalliance early on in her marriage. Tóibín uses masterly
memoir, and his handling of it is char- restraint to dramatize how lives can be destabilized by desire.
acteristic. Trump, he writes, “was being
especially flippant” and made a joke that Ask Me Again, by Clare Sestanovich (Knopf ). This début novel,
gave him “a moment of despair mixed by a noted writer of short stories, begins as Eva, the self-
with amusement.” Catching the eye of conscious teen-age daughter of middle-class parents, befriends
a journalist who shot him “one of those a boy named Jamie, an intellectual with a contrarian streak
‘What the . . . ?’ looks,” Fauci recalls, “I who comes from a wealthy family. In the next few years, Eva
put my hand to my forehead to hide graduates from a prestigious college and gets a job at a news-
my expression.” He was dismayed when paper while contending with romances, ambitions, a nascent
a photograph of this gesture was seized political consciousness, and a changing relationship with her
upon by his critics as proof that he was parents. Meanwhile, Jamie drops out to join a thinly veiled
“a naysaying bureaucrat who deliber- Occupy Wall Street. Throughout, the novel considers how a
ately, even maliciously, was undermin- life’s trajectory takes shape, and how much it is influenced by
ing President Trump.” Fauci, then, does other people: “Eva herself thought about impressions all the
not deny that he was aghast at what time. She liked picturing it literally: the mark that you left on
Trump was saying, but he is adamant someone or that someone left on you.”
that he had no intention of communi-
cating disrespect—a line he maintains Orwell’s Ghosts, by Laura Beers (Norton). In the nearly seventy-
consistently—and that, indeed, the no- five years since George Orwell’s death, his writing has been
torious gesture was an attempt to con- appropriated for various ideological ends. In this lucid, en-
ceal his reaction. The word “flippant” is gaging study, Beers teases out its intricacies, considering, for
notable, too. As criticisms of Trump go, instance, Orwell’s dual commitment to socialist revolution
it’s decidedly mild, and it does capture and “traditional” English society; his apparent dismissal of
something about his character; namely, feminism; his belief in individual liberty; and why he ulti-
his love of playing to an audience. mately valued truth above freedom of speech. The complex-
The chapter about working with ity (and sheer volume) of Orwell’s work means that he has
Trump is called “He Loves Me, He frequently been misunderstood. Beers reaches a satisfying
Loves Me Not.” At first, Fauci found synthesis, writing that Orwell illuminates how “to resist the
Trump “far more personable than I had temptations of totalitarianism in favor of a more open and
expected.” But, early on in the pan- democratic socialism.”
demic, Fauci encountered “the first, but
not the last, whiplash effect that I would Vows, by Cheryl Mendelson (Simon & Schuster). This timely, if
experience in dealing with this com- uneven, blend of social science, history, literary criticism, and
plex man.” On a nighttime phone call anecdote mounts a defense of monogamous marriage as the
in February, 2020, Trump listened as “world’s best blueprint for happiness.” Mendelson is on firm
Fauci advised him against underplay- footing as she traces the evolution of standard marriage vows
ing the severity of the situation—“That from their feudal roots, and she makes compelling points re-
almost always comes back to bite you, garding the interconnectedness of love, desire, and commit-
Mr. President”—and suggested that ment. But other sections, including an underbaked one pos-
honesty would win the country’s re- iting a causal relationship between a monogamy-based society
spect. The next day, at a rally in Charles- and a strong G.D.P., are less persuasive. She critiques defend-
ton, South Carolina, Trump called ers of consensual non-monogamy, but she and they are speak-
COVID the Democrats’ “new hoax.” ing different languages; this is a book on the institution of
Similarly, Fauci was impressed that, marriage in which the word “patriarchal” never appears.
THE NEW YORKER, JUNE 24, 2024 53
despite the economic consequences, be such that booster shots would be More broadly, he emphasizes that
Trump agreed to shut down the coun- needed, he got a call: “people associate science with absolutes
try for fifteen days in March, in an at- that are immutable, when in fact sci-
tempt to “flatten the curve.” The diffi- The president was irate, saying that I could ence is a process that continually un-
not keep doing this to him. He said he loved
culty came when fifteen days turned me, but the country was in trouble, and I was covers new information.” People look
into longer and longer still. “I think making it worse. He added that the stock mar- to medical science for definitive an-
Donald Trump thought that COVID ket went up only six hundred points in re- swers, but the advice during the pan-
would be temporary: a little time goes sponse to the positive phase 1 vaccine news demic had to change as the understand-
by, the outbreak is over, everyone goes and it should have gone up a thousand points ing of the virus developed. This idea
and so I cost the country “one trillion fucking
back to work, and the election cycle can dollars.” governs Fauci’s stated attitude toward
begin,” Fauci writes. But, “with the the debate that still rages about whether
ghastly reality setting in that COVID Fauci himself evinces anger only the pandemic started with the virus nat-
was not going to go away, Trump began when he tells of death threats to him urally jumping species to humans, per-
to grab for an elixir that would cure and his family, which required him to haps in the Wuhan wet market, or
this disease.” When the President have a security detail at home. In the whether a leak from a laboratory in
started touting the benefits of hydroxy- AIDS era, he recalls, he got maybe a cou- Wuhan working on coronaviruses could
chloroquine, Fauci realized that “sooner ple of abusive letters a month. Things have been to blame. (The latter possi-
or later I would have to refute him pub- were very different this time: “Now my bility is made more politically fraught
licly.” Knowing that the press would family and I were barraged by emails, by the fact that the Wuhan lab indi-
seize on divisions between Trump and texts, and phone calls.” He is particu- rectly received funding for some coro-
his COVID team, he evidently tried to larly outraged at the harassment of his navirus research from the N.I.H.) Fauci
make these corrections as measured as daughters, writing that he “wanted to states that there is no proof either way,
possible, and he writes of being struck lash out at the people who were terri- but that “keeping an open mind about
that Trump did not seem to hold them fying these innocent young women.” both possibilities does not mean that
against him. Fauci’s troubles did not end with one cannot have an opinion.” In the
Nothing that Fauci says will change Trump’s departure. Once Joe Biden was book, as in the recent hearing, he con-
the minds of those who believe he was President, the abuse got worse, he writes, tinues to argue that a natural spillover
trying to undermine the President, but because attacking him became a badge from another species is more probable.
Democrats may be surprised that he of loyalty for extremist Republicans and He notes that this is the prevailing opin-
enjoyed cordial relations with much of a way to wage war on Biden and the ion among evolutionary virologists and
the Administration. He finds Mike Democrats—“as well as established the majority opinion among U.S. intel-
Pence, Marc Short, and Hope Hicks principles of public health.” In 2022, ligence agencies; he also asserts that sev-
to be supportive and sees “positive at- Fauci decided to retire, but the polar- enty-five per cent of all new infectious
tributes” in Jared Kushner. Even Trump ization that he laments is as virulent as diseases originate in this manner.
often seems guilty more of wishful ever, as the rhetoric at the recent con- While somewhat open-minded
thinking than of something darker, gressional hearing shows. about the origin of the virus, he is vo-
pleading with Fauci to find some sort ciferous about the way that the lab-leak
of silver lining. The villains in the ac- arts of the book were obviously theory has been used to erode confi-
count are the White House chief of
staff Mark Meadows and the press
P written with an eye to the ongo-
ing scrutiny of the government’s han-
dence in public-health provisions. He
relays in detail his rebuttal, in May, 2021,
secretary Kayleigh McEnany, who dling of the pandemic. He is open, if of Senator Rand Paul’s claim that N.I.H.
Fauci feels try to silence him, and Peter a little general, about things that went money directly funded the creation of
Navarro, an economic adviser, who be- wrong. “If we knew in the first months the virus in Wuhan.
rates him about hydroxychloroquine. what we know now, many things would “At times, I am deeply disturbed
Fauci shows quiet scorn for Scott Atlas, have been done differently,” he writes. about the state of our society,” Fauci
a doctor who becomes Trump’s special “We learned, for example, that aerosol writes near the end of his book. “We
assistant on COVID. Atlas is against transmission of infection was impor- have seen complete fabrications be-
lockdowns, putting his faith in herd tant, and asymptomatic spread of virus come some people’s accepted reality.”
immunity, and acquires influence by played a much greater role in transmis- If this “crisis of truth” persists, the ef-
“telling the president what he wanted sion than originally appreciated. This fects of future pandemics will be much
to hear.” knowledge clearly would have influ- worse. Such is the grim lesson of Fau-
The relationship with Trump cer- enced earlier recommendations for ci’s career in public service. In the nine-
tainly soured, something Fauci attri- mask wearing, social distancing, and teen-eighties, by listening to his crit-
butes in part to the people who had ventilation.” He also thinks that mask ics, he managed to turn them into allies.
the President’s ear, and there is an mandates could have been relaxed ear- Larry Kramer, famously combative,
alarming account of Trump at his most lier but explains that although he pri- went from calling him a murderer to
furious. In June, 2020, after Fauci said vately made this recommendation to saying he loved him. Which of Fauci’s
that the duration of immunity from the C.D.C., he was hesitant to criti- current adversaries would be capable
the vaccines then in development might cize the agency openly. of such a transformation?
54 THE NEW YORKER, JUNE 24, 2024
primacy it accords to autonomy, reason,
BOOKS and individual rights. By wresting our
identities away from a sense of commu-
nity and common purpose, the new “at-
UNSHATTERED omist-instrumental” model was, he thinks,
bound to produce our familiar modern
How the philosopher Charles Taylor would reënchant the world. alienation. We became estranged from
a sense of belonging and meaning. We
BY ADAM GOPNIK experienced the attenuation of the citi-
zen-participation politics we need. We
wanted to be alone, and now we are.
With this analysis, critical of the foun-
dations of liberalism without betraying
liberal values, Taylor manages to be at
once precise and prophetic. He may be
the most well-regarded philosopher in
the English-speaking world, having
snatched most of the big prizes, includ-
ing the million-dollar Berggruen Prize,
in 2016. There are now books about his
books, study guides and Web sites ded-
icated to indexing his œuvre.
When I was a kid, growing up in
Montreal around McGill University,
where Taylor taught for more than three
decades, he was a significant if troubling
presence: not personally troubling—quite
the opposite, he was an amiable faculty
friend—but troubling because, in my
own science-worshipping (what the other
side would have called “positivist”) fac-
ulty family, Taylor’s rehabilitation of
Hegel seemed almost sinister. Of such
matters are quarrels made in Barchester.
Nonetheless, at some point I began to
read Taylor, first with the fascination of
the forbidden and then with ever-increas-
ing pleasure. Though Taylor was defend-
ing a German idealist tradition that a
Liberalism, in Taylor’s view, has neglected the socially embedded nature of the self. more empirical-minded tradition had de-
nounced as mere verbiage and wind, he
yric poets and mathematicians, by ostensibly a study of Romantic poetry had spent a formative period in the pre-
L general agreement, do their best work
young, while composers and conductors
and music, is about nothing less than
modern life and its discontents, and how
cincts of ordinary-language philosophy
at Oxford, where he was mentored by
are evergreen, doing their best work, or we might transcend them. Isaiah Berlin; he spoke the plainer dia-
more work of the same kind, as they age. A hard thinker to pigeonhole, Taylor lects of Anglo-American philosophy. (The
Philosophers seem to be a more mixed has long been a mainstay of Canada’s so- phone calls were coming from inside the
SOURCE PHOTOGRAPH BY NEVILLE ELDER / GETTY
bag: some shine early and some, like cial-democratic left; he helped found the house.) Indeed, he felt that Berlin had
Wittgenstein, have distinct chapters of New Democratic Party, running for of- abandoned philosophy for the history of
youth and middle age; Bertrand Russell fice several times in Quebec, though los- ideas because the moral philosophy of his
went on tirelessly until he was almost ing, inevitably, to the Liberal Party and day was too parched to capture the com-
a hundred. Yet surely few will surpass the charismatic Pierre Trudeau. He’s also plexities Berlin cared about.
the record of the Canadian philosopher a Catholic and a singularly eloquent critic As a social and political theorist, Tay-
Charles Taylor, who is back, at ninety- of individualism and secularism, those lor emphasized the primacy of shared
two, with what may be the most ambi- two pillars of modern liberalism. He wor- experience—the idea that identity re-
tious work ever written by a major thinker ries about the modern conception of the sides within communities rather than in-
at such an advanced age. The new book, self—what he has called “the punctual side brains—without succumbing to nos-
“Cosmic Connections: Poetry in the Age self ”—which he takes to be rooted in talgia for some lost organic society. What
of Disenchantment” (Belknap), though Enlightenment thought, and about the matters most in life to actual people, he
ILLUSTRATION BY JAMES LEE CHIAHAN THE NEW YORKER, JUNE 24, 2024 55
has argued, is not the standard liberal the sort that doesn’t offer propositions human value in the experience of art.
question “Who am I?” but the richer hu- but casts spells and enacts rituals. The At one point, he constructs a table in
manist question “Where am I going?” In arts are not subsidiary places of second- which he contrasts things toward which
expansive volumes such as “Sources of ary sensations but the primary place our attitudes are subjective with things
the Self ” and “A Secular Age,” he has where we go to recall feelings of whole- that have hard, biological significance:
stalked, like a soft-footed cat, a “natural- ness, of harmony not just with “Na- I may prefer vanilla ice cream to straw-
ist” view of humanity which assimilates ture”—the craggy peaks the Romantics berry, but I must have air to breathe. Is
our minds and morals to a purely mate- loved and the Italian lakes they lingered listening to Beethoven, he asks, more
rialist and empirical program of study. by—but with existence itself. Poetry and like preferring vanilla ice cream or more
We are not atoms in a mindless universe, music do this by escaping the constraints like needing to breathe? Or does it, as
he argues, but agents in a metaphysically of intellect, by going at things atmo- Taylor is convinced, belong to the realm
alert one, embodied and embedded in spherically rather than argumentatively. of ethical elevation? Perhaps hearing
meanings we jointly create. Art is not an They convey a sublime atmosphere of late Beethoven is more like seeing that
accessory to pleasure but the means of sound, ineffable intimations of immor- viral video of a small Chinese boy me-
our connection to the cosmos. tality, and so the apprehension of a “cos- ticulously cooking a meal of egg fried
mic connection.” rice for his still smaller sibling than it
aylor’s new book is formidably Taylor reproduces lines from Word- is like the experience of eating the egg
T chewy, with page after page featur-
ing passages of Hölderlin, Novalis, and
sworth’s “Tintern Abbey” (“And the
round ocean and the living air, /And the
fried rice. “Strong ethical insights are
grounded in what I called ‘felt intu-
Rilke, offered both in the original Ger- blue sky, and in the mind of man; / A itions,’”Taylor writes. “Someone couldn’t
man and in translation. Long analyses motion and a spirit, that impels / All be said to have a moral conviction about
of T. S. Eliot and Milosz arrive, too. But, thinking things, all objects of thought”) universal human rights, for instance, if
though Taylor’s subjects are often se- and tells us, “To let oneself be carried by she wasn’t prone on the appropriate oc-
verely abstract, his sentences are lucid, this passage is to experience a strong casions to experience them, to feel them
even charmingly direct, and his purpose sense of connection, far from clearly as inspiring (hearing the choral move-
is plain. We once lived in an “enchanted” defined . . . but deeply felt; a connection ment of Beethoven’s Ninth Symphony),
universe of agreed-upon meaning and not static, but which f lows through and their flagrant violation as appall-
common purpose, where we looked at us and our world.” Keats’s “Ode to a ing.” We are convinced because we are
the night sky and felt that each object Nightingale” is similarly effervescent in moved. The reasoning may seem circu-
was shaped with significance by a God- diction, similarly ethereal in effect. The lar—I know it’s inspiring because it feels
given order. Now we live in the modern lines “O for a beaker full of the warm inspiring—but his point is that what
world the Enlightenment produced— South,/Full of the true, the blushful Hip- great modern poetry does is to encircle
one of fragmented belief and broken pur- pocrene,/With beaded bubbles winking us with inspiring feelings.
poses, where no God superintends the at the brim,/And purple-stained mouth” Art isn’t absolute, but it isn’t at all ar-
cosmos, common agreement on mean- cast a spell as much as they describe a bitrary. Taylor escapes from the divide
ing is no longer possible, and all you can feeling. Taylor writes, “The rhythmic between subjectivity and objectivity
do with the moon is measure it. “I ad- flow between the features as recounted through a concept he calls the “inter-
mire the moon as a moon, just a moon,” in the poem somehow encounters, meets, space”—not the inner space where I per-
Lorenz Hart sighed, with memorable ceive and enjoy but some resonant atmo-
modernity, adding, significantly, “No- sphere that exists between me and the
body’s heart belongs to me today.” En- world.The sound of the cello in a Schubert
lightened, we are alone. trio isn’t entirely in the cello, where the
Romantic poetry—the poetry of Shel- sound begins, or entirely between my lis-
ley and Keats, in English, of Novalis and tening ears, where the experience of struc-
Hölderlin, in German—first diagnosed tured sound as music happens, but some-
this fracture (the argument goes) and where between the two, where the creation
offered a way to heal it. Where neoclas- of meaning takes place. The interspace is
sical poets like Alexander Pope appealed the phenomenal field of the arts. When
to an ordered world, with clear mean- connects up with the flow between the we listen to sublime music, then, our ex-
ings and a hierarchy of kinds, the Ro- features as we live it.” Classical art, he perience is not of pleasure but of an over-
mantics recognized that this was no lon- argues, moves us by convincing us; Ro- whelming feeling of encountering and
ger credible. The enchanted world had mantic art convinces us by moving us. exploring some truth. The music sculpts
been replaced by the modern world. We us, we sculpt the music, and to reduce
could hardly go back toward ignorance— aylor is challenging the belief that this to mood misses the cosmic connec-
Goethe, one of Taylor’s heroes, partici-
pated in the modern world as a scien-
T science provides objective truth,
and art mere subjective feeling—that
tion that the experience proposes and,
quite often, provides.
tist—but we had to f ind a way to art produces sensations, and what you All of this is attractive, directed at
reënchant it. The best way to heal the make of the sensations is all up to you. some unnamed but quite easily imagined
wound is through poetry and music, of He insists that there is intrinsic, grounded contemporary Gradgrind who thinks that
56 THE NEW YORKER, JUNE 24, 2024
poetry is mere décor and music mere en-
tertainment (in a footnote, Taylor cites
Steven Pinker’s provocation that music
is “auditory cheesecake”), and who scoffs
at the conviction of aesthetes and hu-
manists that music and art contain a kind
of knowledge. Most readers will respond
to Taylor’s contagious excitement in the
presence of Wordsworth and Rilke and
Beethoven. His are ideas that one assents
to enthusiastically even while realizing
that it would be hard to defend them to
someone less inclined to assent. Indeed,
one recalls the spiral of puzzled questions
that apostles of the arts regularly encoun-
ter from the science-minded, who insist
that when we invoke the ethical allure
of music we’re just saying we really like
those fuzzy feelings. If Taylor’s experien-
tial enthusiasms sometimes do not seem
too far away from the lyrics to “Misty”
(“Walk my way and a thousand violins
begin to play”), well, being misty about
something is a precondition of transcen-
dence, even if it’s only that old black magic
called love. And so the interspace be-
tween Taylor and the art-infatuated reader
is likely to be one of enthusiastic assent:
Yes, it does feel like that! Yes, it is a big
experience. Yes, I feel the cosmos. When
I browse through Spotify, passing from
Ray Charles to the obscurer singers of
the Stax/Volt catalogue, each stop along
• •
the way offers some experience of com-
mon space which is not just diverting but people who, at least culturally, have re- affect and narrowly communal in ar-
deeply reassuring. Yes, there is meaning tained a sense of the sacred. Overcom- rangement, and, for the most part, the
in the mess; yes, the space says yes. ing discrimination becomes not just an two forces contest peaceably.
abstract advance in justice or an instru- Taylor is inclined by his experience to
he last fifty pages of “Cosmic Con- mental strategy for minimizing conflict think that the communal and the cos-
T nections” pivot decisively from the
intricacies of poetic imagination to the
but a “source of deep fulfillment.”
Taylor is a believer in the importance
mopolitan can coexist. You can belong to
a tribe and still belong to the people. The
specifics of contemporary American and of place; one does not provincialize his “politics of recognition” that Taylor has
Canadian (and, secondarily, European) work by situating it within the province recommended gives weight, accordingly,
politics—toward the social interspace, so it comes from. Born in Montreal, Tay- to the demands that communities—eth-
to speak. A long section turns to ques- lor was shaped by the peculiar social fab- nic, religious, or otherwise—make on the
tions of white supremacy, civil rights, ric of Quebec. The communal connec- state. Given Taylor’s emphasis on the em-
national identity, the rise of Trumpist tion among Québécois remains unusually bodied dimensions of social meaning, it
populism, and so on. A successful self- strong. It’s reinforced by linguistic iso- seems significant that he was reared in a
governing republic, Taylor believes, re- lation, which outside Montreal often bicultural household; his mother was
quires a community of shared purpose produces an inward-turning monolingual a Francophone Catholic, and his father
and a common space of deliberation. An- culture, and in Montreal an outward- an Anglophone Protestant. McGill is
tagonistic groups must go beyond the turning bilingual one. The Catholic a great English-speaking university in
narrow aspiration of winning a contest Church has collapsed as a living force, the midst of a French-speaking city, and
against adversaries and come to one an- but it provides a cultural scaffolding in though its autonomy and financing is
other with a sense of mutual recognition which much else still takes place. (The threatened from time to time by the
and regard. And the people best able to holiday celebrating the now secularized provincial government, it has survived
make this case, in Taylor’s view, “are peo- cause of Quebec nationalism is a reli- through even the most extreme indepen-
ple who are deeply rooted in their spir- gious one: June 24th, Saint-Jean-Baptiste dence-minded administrations. Montreal
itual sources, often religious.” These are Day.) Quebec is openly cosmopolitan in is a very good place to nourish the belief
THE NEW YORKER, JUNE 24, 2024 57
that communities can supply meaning out that, if we have to look past leprosy with the scientific findings of his day,
without fomenting mayhem. and death in childbirth in chronicling and they showed up in his verse. Keats’s
The link Taylor wants to make the enchanted, we also have to look past claim that “beauty is truth, truth beauty”
between his readings of poetry and his Treblinka, the killing fields, Wounded is contestable on its own terms, and the
civics lessons has affinities to the pro- Knee, and more in chronicling the dis- subsequent claim that this is all we need
posals made by a number of writers— enchanted. Yet such a rejoinder is cor- to know puts one in mind of the phi-
many of them Catholic, significantly— rosive of the neat division between the losopher’s favorite T-shirt: “Surely not
throughout the modern period: the two worlds he makes. Though he never everybody was kung-fu fighting.” One
meticulous remaking of ritual (which says it directly, the atmospherics of Tay- hates to pit one great Polish poet against
you find in Chesterton and Tolkien lor’s book suggest that great music is an another, but Taylor’s book might have
alike), the love of the local, the revalu- agent of moral growth. So you can won- benefitted by having a little more Szym-
ing of ceremony and communal spirit der what it would be like if we had a civ- borska and a little less Milosz, since she
as things essential in themselves rather ilization where Romantic music was the gets an effect quite as Romantic as her
than leftovers from a barbaric past. The soundtrack of the people, and where even counterpart’s simply by inventorying the
wrong kind of politics, Taylor implies, military victories and defeats were cele- actual world of peeled onions and doc-
arises from the loss of a cosmic connec- brated through the allure of symphonic tors’ offices. Humanistic inquiry may not
tion which the Romantics first sensed, sound. In fact, such a society existed— be susceptible to strict empirical mea-
and which now is part of the unhappy in the Third Reich of the nineteen-for- surement or evolutionary explanation.
inheritance of our civilization. Alien- ties. Loving Schubert and Beethoven, it But it remains rational, forcing us to
ated and disconnected, the Trump voter, seems, gets you nowhere at all ethically. argue out our tastes and values. To treat
the Brexiteer, the Le Pen supporter turns And then the question arises of art as a question of personal taste is, as
to theatricalized reassurances of fascist- whether the alteration between the en- Taylor thinks, reductive, but it’s also im-
style unity, predicated on the demoni- chanted and the enlightened is really practical. It is to forget that almost all
zation of the nearby other. Taylor cele- the historical one proposed by Taylor’s we ever do is argue about taste—and
brates Pope Francis’s encyclicals on Hegelian model, with its emphasis on the good arguments often ask how art
extended families, with their sense of an unfolding one-way plot, or, rather, a corresponds to our experience or shines
the common good, and those Native re- permanent tension in all literate times. light on our values.
ligions which get their sense of the sa- Shakespeare’s language, as Taylor hints
cred from a specific place of dwelling. at various moments, is structured by a aylor extolls the communities of
He turns again to the interspace, now
lofted to become not only the theatre
pull between inherited magic and Re-
naissance cynicism. Ted Hughes made
T meaning that are drawn together
by the interspace of enchantment. Yet,
of reception and communication be- the point that Shakespeare stood bal- as he would be the first to acknowledge,
tween artist and audience but also the anced on a knife’s edge between myth such communities are, first of all, com-
implicit space of political community. and measurement, between an old, fairy- munities of practice. We learn to listen,
tale world and a new, empirical one. just as we learn to read. Learning to love
he turn from poetry to politics is There’s visionary language in the son- Beethoven’s music is first to love the
T certainly seductive, but is it persua-
sive? Certain objections rise even in the
nets that seems to say almost more
than we can understand (“the prophetic
sound, then to find it achingly long-
winded, then to sustain concentration,
mind of the reader stirred by these kinds soul / Of the wide world dreaming on then to find the concentration rewarded
of accounts. First, and simplest: Should things to come”) and acerbic worldliness by new understanding—only to return
we be so enchanted by “enchantment”? right next door (“My mistress’ eyes are to the pleasure of the sound.
Taylor treats the change from the en- nothing like the sun”). Enchanted and The interspace is an arena of shared
chanted world to the post-Enlightenment enlightened sensibilities rise throughout education as much as of solitary epiph-
naturalistic world as a change from one history and seem two points in the cycle any. Ritual without reason has led mo-
climate of opinion to another, rather than of human possibility more than two mo- dernity in many wrong directions. Prac-
as any kind of progress. But “progress” ments in fixed historical sequence. tical communities are as valuable as
does seem to be the right word for it: life A third point relates to Taylor’s par- poetic communities. The experiences
in the “enchanted” world was poorer, ticular appetite for poetry. He likes the Taylor evokes of being overwhelmed by
briefer, uglier, and more brutal. The op- sides of Keats and Wordsworth that are aesthetic responses scarcely distinguish-
position of the enchanted and the dis- ineffable, symbolic, atmospheric, and able from ethical elevation are ones we
enchanted—one world lacking in tech- mystically resonant. But this taste can encounter daily—exploring a stranger’s
nological power but rich in communal lead him, so to speak, to miss the ice playlist of Chuck Berry and his precur-
spirit, the other rich in machines but poor cubes in the tumbler while seeking the sors, reading a newly sent poem, or see-
in soul—is tilted toward the past. To put iceberg in the ocean. Romantic poetry ing an Instagram Story of children in a
it plainly, the “disenchanted” universe is gets some of its meaning by overwhelm- distant land sharing a meal. The inter-
one where, increasingly, human suffering ing us, but it also gets meaning by mak- space is enchanted mainly in its nor-
is resolved by vaccination and effective ing a disputable case. There’s a lot of at- malcy. Perhaps connecting with the
drugs, not by bleeding and cupping. mosphere in Romantic poetry, but also cosmos is not as hard as philosophers
Taylor’s response would be to point a lot of argument. Shelley was obsessed sometimes imagine. It’s where we live.
58 THE NEW YORKER, JUNE 24, 2024
Enjoy The New Yorker
from head to tote.
Check out new offerings, evergreen favorites,
limited-edition items, and more.
tidian dramas of opening a restaurant,
ON AND OFF THE MENU giving focus not only to Carmy, the
head chef and owner, but also to Syd-
ney, a sous-chef learning her worth in
HEAT RISING macho environs, and to Lionel, a qui-
etly ambitious pastry chef.
The era of the line cook. The restaurant world still harbors
affection for the idea of cooks paying
BY HANNAH GOLDFIELD their dues, but the fetish for rigidly
hierarchical and abusive workplaces
seems to have abated in recent years.
In his memoir “Notes from a Young
Black Chef,” Kwame Onwuachi re-
counts being emotionally abused in
some of New York’s most prestigious
kitchens. At his own restaurant, Tati-
ana, he is a firm but gentle leader, pre-
siding over an ongoing “Top Chef ”-
style knockout tournament, in which
cooks both compete and serve as
judges, whipping up dishes during
lulls in service. It’s lighthearted—an
impromptu round I saw involved
shooting a balled-up piece of tinfoil
into a trash can—but high-stakes, end-
ing with a big-ticket prize of the win-
ner’s choice. (One person won a trip
to Jamaica, at Onwuachi’s expense.)
Eric Ripert, the chef and co-owner of
Le Bernardin, recently hired a “staff
meal chef,” whose sole job is to pre-
pare excellent food for his co-workers.
If the era of the line cook had been
hovering pre-pandemic, the course of
2020 certainly hastened it. That year,
as restaurant workers scrambled for
gigs and sweated in the trenches of
“essential work,” the chef Eli Sussman,
who began his career as a prep cook,
started posting memes that united den-
n “Kitchen Confidential,” the book am not—an advocate for change in izens of the industry over the daily
Iwriting
that launched Anthony Bourdain’s
career, he explained that his
the restaurant business,” he wrote. “I
like the business just the way it is.”
struggles of kitchen labor: dropping a
paring knife behind a lowboy, forget-
subject was “street-level cooking and Whether he meant to or not, Bour- ting to close the roll gate at the end of
its practitioners.” Line cooks—the peo- dain did change the business, in part your shift, barely livable hourly wages.
ple actually making your food—“were by stoking the public’s interest in its (To a pair of photos of Tom Hanks—a
the heroes,” he wrote. It was clear what inner workings. His vivid portrait of clean-cut Forrest Gump on the left, a
kind of heroism he meant: obscured life in the kitchen helped turn the line bedraggled castaway on the right—he
and nearly undetectable; all drudgery, cook into an ascendant figure; a quar- added the text “Day 1: Hi Chef ! Look-
no glory; the hustle its own reward. In ter of a century later, people without ing forward to being part of the team!
the preface to an updated paperback any particular connection to the indus- Day 366: Who the fuck stole my fucking
edition, Bourdain said that the book try are familiar with the image of a sharpie!!!”) At the latest Baldor Bite,
had been wrongly perceived as an ex- cook drinking ice water out of a plas- a biannual food expo hosted by one of
posé of the restaurant business, when tic quart container; with the term “back the biggest restaurant suppliers on the
all he was trying to do was write some- of house”; with the ritual of “family East Coast, Sussman hawked delight-
thing that his fellow-cooks found “en- meal.” The TV show “The Bear” has fully niche merchandise for the back-
tertaining and true.” “I was not—and proffered an insider’s view of the quo- of-house crowd, including T-shirts
printed with the script for Baldor’s au-
How back-of-house workers came to the forefront of pop culture. tomated phone menu.
60 THE NEW YORKER, JUNE 24, 2024 PHOTO ILLUSTRATION BY JASON FULFORD AND TAMARA SHOPSIN
One recent Monday afternoon, I agreed: no “mods,” or modifications. born sous-chef at the Musket Room,
stopped by gertrude’s, a restaurant Chefs see these opportunities as a a Michelin-starred restaurant in No-
Sussman co-owns, in Prospect Heights, way to develop the skills of newer lita. At the offices of Food 52, on a
and made my way down a precariously cooks, and to retain their talent. Jason high floor in the Brooklyn Navy Yard,
steep set of stairs to the dark, cramped Vincent, the chef and co-owner of guests milled around a bar, drinking a
basement prep kitchen. Every Mon- Giant, in Chicago, prints the initials cocktail called Clear Skies—a riff on
day, Sussman runs a burger special, of line cooks who conceive of new a Hurricane, with coconut milk and
usually conceived by someone—a line dishes on the restaurant’s menu. (When lime—and eating cornmeal-battered
cook, a dishwasher—who works one I went recently, a pasta with lentil ragù fried oysters before being seated at
of the restaurant’s less glamorous jobs. and a grilled swordfish Tom Kha were several large tables.
That day, it was in the hands of João attributed to “l.k.” and “l.d.,” respec- Ponjuan, who is twenty-seven and
Soares Vieira, the production man- tively.) Younger cooks, he’s observed, slight, with a ruffled mop of fine curls,
ager, who oversees all kitchen prep and have different expectations for their a goatee, and round spectacles that
who now stood at an induction burner, careers than he did when he started. give him the look of a young, Brook-
stirring a pot of garlic simmering in “With Instagram and everything, ev- lynite Colonel Sanders, seemed ner-
olive oil, to which he’d soon add wal- eryone’s got the potential to be no- vous and excited; it was clear that he
nuts and diced cremini, to make mush- ticed,” Vincent said. wasn’t taking the experience lightly.
room duxelles. “I was a cook not so long ago; I A detailed menu began with a poem
This was Soares Vieira’s second go know how monotonous it can be,” On- about his mother and explained the
at burger night; his first had been wuachi told me. “And I think by hav- inspiration behind each dish: the
“vaguely controversial,” he said, because ing the tournament, by bringing the boiled-peanut vinaigrette on a plate
the patties were served without a bun, staff into the dining room, by playing of white asparagus reminded him of
after bife à café, a classic of Lisbon, his the music loud so they can hear it, it eating boiled peanuts by the side of
home town. This time, he was show- feels more like they’re a part of the the road on the way to baseball games
casing his classical French training, culture that we’re trying to convey to in Louisiana; a course of duck à l’or-
pairing the duxelles with yellow mus- the diners.” But also, he said, “every- ange was made with satsumas like the
tard, Roquefort, and a handful of pars- body has a voice now, especially with ones that grew on a tree behind his
ley, all to be sandwiched with the beef social media. So I think a lot of peo- grandparents’ house. A dish of crab
patty on a buttered challah bun. Other ple are more cognizant of how they’re “rice and gravy” came with a tiny plas-
cooks had done riffs on the banh mi treating their staff—because there is tic squeeze bottle of Nasty Noah’s
and the chopped cheese; a porter named someone watching.” Hot Sauce, labelled with an illustra-
Keith had smothered his in smoked tion of Ponjuan’s face.
cheddar, crispy onions, and a house- his spring, I went to a dinner in a Besser said that when she was first
made A1 sauce. “It’s definitely not com-
mon to have line cooks actually put
T series called the Line Up, for which
line cooks, sous-chefs, and chefs de
putting together the Line Up, five years
ago, “it felt like walking on eggshells”—
something on a menu,” Soares Vieira cuisine from buzzy New York restau- some chefs she approached “felt threat-
said. Cooking is his second career; be- rants get to be executive chefs for a ened and nervous about their cook
fore culinary school, he worked for ten night. It’s the brainchild of Elena Besser, being distracted, or wanting to leave
years as an interior architect. He con- who is in her thirties and makes a liv- and go do their own thing.” But re-
fessed to spending “too much time” at ing as a private chef, a caterer, and a cently, she told me, chefs have been
gertrude’s—“to the point that Eli sends culinary contributor to the “Today” eager to showcase their employees’
me home sometimes.” show. She has worked the line herself, talents. At dinner, I sat next to Ca-
During the restaurant’s lineup meet- at Lilia, in Williamsburg. “I felt really mari Mick, the Musket Room’s exec-
ing, after Sussman updated the front- frustrated that it takes years and years, utive pastry chef and one of Ponjuan’s
of-house staff on changes to service— and many other factors, to get the op- bosses and mentors, who cheered
the chopped salad was eighty-sixed; portunity to be in the spotlight,” she loudly—“Yeah, Nasty Noah!”—when
it would be great to sell more of the told me. “Often, individuals leave the he stood up to speak.
Montauk sea bass—Soares Vieira industry because they put in all of this Ponjuan considered the night a suc-
emerged from the kitchen with two time and effort, and are never the ones cess, though afterward he couldn’t re-
finished burgers, which he sliced into calling the shots.” sist thinking about what he might have
tiny wedges so everyone could have a For the series, Besser and her co- done differently. (The plating on the
taste. “How would you describe Roque- founders find participants by asking crab rice, and on the dessert, could
fort to someone who’s never had it be- chefs to nominate someone in their have been cleaner, he told me.) If he
fore?” a server asked. “Very nutty,” Soares kitchen, and choose three per “season” had relished his moment in the spot-
Vieira said. “Don’t say ‘moldy,’ but it’s to each come up with a one-night light, it didn’t seem to be what moti-
full-on moldy—it’s a full blue cheese, restaurant concept, which Besser and vated him. “It’s hard,” he said of his
which has mold in it. If they don’t know her team fully fund and help to exe- work, “but there’s something that I just
what Roquefort is, they probably won’t cute. On the marquee when I went enjoy about the endurance of it. The
like it.” But Soares Vieira and Sussman was Noah Ponjuan, the Baton Rouge- life that comes with it.”
THE NEW YORKER, JUNE 24, 2024 61
tongue rather than confessing devotion
POP MUSIC too soon: “I don’t wanna ruin the mo-
ment / Lovely to sit between comfort
and chaos.” Much of McAlpine’s writ-
OFFLINE ing wobbles between those two poles.
Like Bridgers and Rodrigo, she is prone
Lizzy McAlpine on the power and pitfalls of viral fame. to contemplating the distance between
what feels safe and what feels thrilling.
BY AMANDA PETRUSICH Yet the final verse of “Ceilings” sug-
gests that it was all an elaborate fan-
tasy. “But it’s not real / And you don’t
exist / And I can’t recall the last time I
was kissed,” she sings. Plenty of songs
feature extended daydreams about get-
ting subsumed by a new romance, but
far fewer include invented thoughts of
love-related angst. “Ceilings” feels par-
ticularly modern in this way, and in con-
versation, somehow, with the loneliness
of quarantine. McAlpine’s longing for
love is also a longing for confusion, for
nervousness, for weird feelings. She
wants the whole imperfect and exhila-
rating package: comfort, chaos.
It was the verse containing the plot
twist—it was all just a dream!—that
started whipping across TikTok. The
audio was typically sped up (users will
sometimes increase a song’s b.p.m. so
that they can cram more lyrical con-
tent into a very brief clip—yes, this is
nuts) and played over footage of girls
in long dresses twirling around out-
side, sometimes during a rainstorm,
with beatific expressions on their faces.
For several years now, the music in-
dustry has been hyperfocussed on
TikTok as a kind of magic portal to
huge, near-instantaneous success. Al-
though the platform can be confound-
IondnLizzy
2022, the singer and songwriter
McAlpine released her sec-
studio album, “Five Seconds Flat,”
warblers to pull out their iPhone tri-
pods. McAlpine had collaborated with
Jacob Collier and Finneas on the re-
ing—the particulars of its algorithm
are famously kept secret—it’s a cheap
and efficient marketing tool, and om-
a collection of winsome bedroom- cord, and would soon work with Noah nipresent in the lives of its billion-plus
pop songs about feeling heartsick and Kahan and Niall Horan. She felt like users. It works to create a certain kind
alienated. McAlpine, who was then a singer of her time and place. of outsized, often momentary fame.
twenty-two, seemed to fit neatly be- Almost a year after “Five Seconds “Ceilings” has now been streamed more
tween Phoebe Bridgers and Olivia Ro- Flat” was released, the single “Ceilings” than five hundred and thirty million
drigo, two other visionary young song- went viral on TikTok. McAlpine, who times on Spotify.
writers who became enormously famous was brought up in a suburb of Phila- When we first spoke, McAlpine,
during the pandemic. McAlpine’s work delphia, wrote the song while she was who has long brown hair and an air of
was funny and forthright, but also in London, working on an EP and mud- seriousness, was seated on her bed at
vaguely elegiac. She has a velvety, agile dling through a breakup. It tells the her house in Los Angeles, an open,
voice that trembles in the right mo- story of a relationship’s heady and in- high-ceilinged space with heavy wooden
ments. She is also unusually adept at toxicating early days, when everything beams and white walls. I asked how
writing the sorts of tender, yearning feels possible but the ground is still un- long she’d been living there. She paused,
hooks that move legions of aspiring steady. The song’s narrator bites her then laughed. “Time is weird,” she said.
“Two-ish years?” She found the city
“Older” eschews the melodramatic swooning of McAlpine’s previous album. isolating at first, but has slowly settled
62 THE NEW YORKER, JUNE 24, 2024 PHOTOGRAPH BY MAIWENN RAOULT
into a domestic rhythm. She told me Music. “We dated for a month and a “As we kept going, it just started to
that she has come to understand viral- half, and then the next four years were feel less and less right,” she said. “We
ity as something of a curse. “I play ‘Ceil- on and off, basically,” she said. “I was were doing it like my other records. I
ings’ toward the end of the set,” she just going back to him over and over listen back to my first two albums, and
said. “The song I play after ‘Ceilings’ again because I knew he would be I can just hear the perfection. We would
is about my father, who passed away. there.” Now she’s trying to hold her- Melodyne every vocal. It was perfectly
Hundreds of people just get up and self accountable: “I only hear songs in time. I felt like this music deserved
walk out. Like, you really paid that about ‘You hurt me and you left and something more messy than that, more
much money to come see my show, you suck!’ That’s not my experience.” human.” She ended up reworking most
and only wanted to hear ‘Ceilings’? It’s The melodies on “Older” are rich of that material, and ultimately helped
mind-boggling.” but subtle. On the title track, Mc- produce the record herself. “I found a
Of course, griping about the inan- Alpine details her regrets over mourn- band,” she said. “Finally being in a
ity of TikTok can make a person feel ful piano lines: room with people who are real, and in
dusty and oblivious. For a while, I was the same room, and we’re recording
Over and over
so resistant to resisting it that I found Watch it all pass things in one take, playing off of each
myself engaging in all sorts of mental Mom’s getting older other—it just felt so good. It was ex-
and spiritual gymnastics to justify its I’m wanting it back actly what the music was missing.”
galloping pace, its endless expanse of Where no one is dying She recalled her previous tour, in
fun-sized content, the way it reduces And no one is hurt support of “Five Seconds Flat,” as har-
And I have been good to you
even the most dynamic and emotion- Instead of making it worse. rowing, anxious. She wrote “All Falls
ally complicated songs to neutral blips. Down,” one of the more beguiling
But the more a person mulls over the It is impossible, the song suggests, to tracks on “Older,” while in the midst
mechanics of virality the more odious understand or control our lives as we’re of it. “I was trying to put on a show
the experience seems. Building a ca- living them. “I wish I knew what the that I saw other people doing—the
reer the old-fashioned way—slow and end is,” she repeats in the final verse, pop thing,” she said. “But it just didn’t
steady—is not glamorous, but being her voice splintering. I told McAlpine sit right with me. This tour is com-
launched into the stratosphere seem- that I found the album to be a poi- pletely different. It’s like night and
ingly at random, with no personal or gnant meditation on self-loathing and day.” On “All Falls Down,” McAlpine
professional infrastructure in place to the time we lose to pain. “I’ve seen so sings about being miserable over
support sudden fame, tends to leave many people just be, like, ‘It’s really jaunty, AM-radio horns. The track is
musicians stricken, if not traumatized. boring,’ ” McAlpine told me, of the playful but intensely grim, in the mold
This is partly because virality is un- record. “It’s not ‘Five Seconds Flat,’ of Harry Nilsson or Randy Newman.
derstood as a gift, the whole point of but ‘Five Seconds Flat’ was so not “Twenty-two / Was a panic attack,”
being relentlessly online. It can be irk- me.” She went on, “I’m kind of los- she sings, her voice soft. “I can’t stop
some when artists don’t express end- ing the people who don’t actually care the time from moving / And I can
less gratitude for their luck. As we about my art, which is hard, but also never get it back.”
spoke, McAlpine was careful not to good, probably, in the long run, be- Lately, McAlpine has been reëval-
complain too much about this kind of cause this album sounds the most like uating her aspirations. “I didn’t play
notoriety. “It’s kind of disheartening, me that I’ve ever sounded. If people gigs growing up—all I really did was
a little bit, sometimes,” she said cau- don’t fuck with it, ‘Five Seconds Flat’ do theatre,” she said. “I wanted to be
tiously. “But for the most part it’s fine. is still there for them.” on Broadway. I liked writing songs be-
I’m just going to move ‘Ceilings’ to the McAlpine also said that she has been cause it helps me process things, and
encore. If they really want to see ‘Ceil- turning away from social media. “I used for a long time the songs were just
ings,’ they can wait.” to put myself out there a lot more, in for me.” I asked if she could imagine
the early days, when I was building my a future in which she stopped touring
Iandnalbum,
April, McAlpine released her third
“Older,” an eerie, sparse,
gorgeous folk-rock record that de-
career. But recently, I just . . . I don’t
like it,” she said. “I don’t want to have
people know my every move and every
and concentrated on a different kind of
performance, maybe auditioning for a
musical. “That’s all I’ve been thinking
liberately eschews the melodramatic thought. With this record specifically, about, honestly,” she said. “This album
swooning of “Five Seconds Flat.” She I was, like, I’m not doing that. I don’t took so long to make, and it took a
is in the middle of a world tour, and care if my music goes nowhere. I’m not lot of the joy out of making music
will perform two shows this month at going to be lip-synching the songs on for me.” Now she’s considering a life
Radio City Music Hall. “Older” is a TikTok every day to get them to go centered on selflessness, slowness, pri-
slower and more mature album, fo- viral. That’s not who I am.” vacy, quiet. “After this tour, I’m fully
cussed on grief, culpability, and the Instead, McAlpine has spent much going to pivot to something else,” she
tumult of change. The songs were of the last two years reëstablishing her- said. “I want to work on other people’s
inspired by a romantic relationship self both creatively and personally. She words. I want to be a part of some-
McAlpine had while she was an un- initially recorded a different version of one else’s ideas. I need to live a little
dergraduate at the Berklee College of the album, but the results left her cold. before I can write more.”
THE NEW YORKER, JUNE 24, 2024 63
twelve women—a “jury of matrons”—
THE THEATRE into service to evaluate Sally, sequestering
them “without meat, drink, fire and can-
dle,” to hasten their examination along.
LABOR PAINS For much of its first half, “The Wel-
kin” is Kirkwood’s gender-swapped ver-
Lucy Kirkwood’s “The Welkin” assesses women’s work. sion of “Twelve Angry Men.” Here, San-
dra Oh takes on what the playwright has
BY HELEN SHAW referred to as the Henry Fonda position
in the jury room, playing Lizzy, a mid-
wife who empathizes with the unsta-
ble, fierce, forsaken Sally. Lizzy brings
obstetric expertise and a brutal class
consciousness to the deliberations. She
spares no pity for the victim, the rich
eleven-year-old Alice Wax, who was
beaten to death with a hammer. “They
found the little girl in pieces in two sacks
stuffed up the fireplace,” the bailiff, Mr.
Coombes (Glenn Fitzgerald), tells Lizzy.
“Expect that is the closest a Wax child
ever got to sweeping a chimney,” she
tuts, banging away at her butter churn.
Kirkwood uses the second half to take
wilder stylistic swings. Music and ap-
paritions move through the space; the
women channel absurd interventions
from other centuries. I found these mo-
ments bewildering at first, and then, as
the superb cast invests them with manic
energy, exhilarating.
In 1759, Halley’s Comet was a recent
fascination, and Kirkwood threads its
presence through the play, hinting at
the way that future years (maybe 1835,
certainly 1986) will drift into the play’s
weird gravity. Other things—angels, de-
mons, even the idea of airplanes—also
hover above the action. In fact, “welkin”
is an old English word for sky, or, re-
arly in “The Welkin,” the British If work can crush a soul, who’s to blame ally, the firmament, the high vault over
E playwright Lucy Kirkwood’s period
thriller, now at the Linda Gross Theatre,
for the monstrous thing that takes that
poor soul’s place?
us. Georgian and East Anglian idiom
is usually introduced carefully and with
a dozen women appear in something like In Kirkwood’s play, directed for the enough repetition that I can now con-
an eighteenth-century diorama: they are Atlantic Theatre Company by Sarah fidently insult any sloppy mawther as a
arranged in bas-relief against a black cur- Benson, a court has already condemned slamkin who keeps a dirty house. “Wel-
tain, each obsessively performing a sin- a young married woman, Sally Poppy kin,” though, is said only once. I wonder
gle task. Whump, whump, whump goes a (Haley Wong), to hang, for helping her if Kirkwood wants you to reach for a dic-
carpet beater; scrape, scrape, scrape grinds lover murder a little girl. We’re pretty tionary after you leave the theatre, and
a brush against the floor. It’s a cliché, of sure she did it: the play starts with a then, as you realize that you just spent
course, that “women’s work” is backbreak- candlelit prologue, in which Sally vis- two and a half hours at a play named
ing and soul-crushing, but Kirkwood, its her abandoned husband raving and for Heaven, she wants you to look up.
who also wrote the Tony-nominated play covered in the child’s blood. But Sally
“The Children”—in which retired nu- has sworn to the judge that she’s preg- wo trends seem to be converging
clear scientists consider sacrificing them-
selves to shut down a damaged reactor—
nant, and, under English common law
in 1759, “pleading the belly” could com-
T in “The Welkin”: the urge to re-
visit plays like “The Crucible” with our
is interested in what follows the cliché. mute the sentence. The judge presses modern feminist sensibilities—in just a
few years, we’ve had Kimberly Belflow-
Sandra Oh stars as an eighteenth-century midwife and moral lodestone. er’s “John Proctor Is the Villain,” Talene
64 THE NEW YORKER, JUNE 24, 2024 ILLUSTRATION BY BEN WISEMAN
Monahon’s “The Good John Proctor,” and wearing, though I did come to believe
Sarah Ruhl’s “Becky Nurse of Salem”— that Kirkwood wants the seams to show.
and a long-building fear of authority and Benson’s directorial touch is extrav-
its instruments, including the justice sys- agantly precise: we never see her move
tem, the medical establishment, and even her ensemble into a tableau, but sud-
civic society itself. In Arthur Miller’s clas- denly we’ll be looking at a stage image as
sic, girls—historically, little girls, Ruhl’s delicately composed as a Hogarth print.
“Becky” taught us—are treated like so- Unfortunately, Benson, like Kirkwood,
ciopathic maniacs. Kirkwood’s tragic plot exhibits less deftness with the central
shows us a girl who is certainly violent, pair, whose performances are big but
but we also gather that Sally’s fall into sometimes flat. Oh, who has a gift for
madness came after a short lifetime of majesty, thunders like a lawyer during
abuse, unstinting work, and marital as- summation, and when she’s thwarted
sault. As for that long-building fear, the she gets even louder. And Wong, as the
women on the jury hear from a doc- complex Sally, leans into playing her as
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“ ”
..........................................................................................................................
“Of course, it would be a lot lighter “My last place was a hole in the wall.”
if it wasn’t made of stone.” Amy Rosenberg, East Lansing, Mich.
Mark Levy, Brookline, Mass.
THE 14 15
CROSSWORD 16 17 18 19
20 21 22 23
A moderately challenging puzzle.
24 25 26
BY ERIK AGARD
27 28
29
ACROSS
1 Something drawn before a slash? 30
6 Cuban dance
31 32 33 34 35
11 Person from Portland, for example
36 37 38
12 Assists, in hockey lingo
14 Tort retort? 39 40 41 42
15 “Be cool!”
43 44 45 46 47
16 “Cool” amount
16 Word followed by pants or party 48 49
30 Made some good points 6 WhatsApp owner 44 Verb that’s a homophone of 45-Down
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