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the meat. Lay the pieces out to freeze. Be sure they freeze solid to
the center. In the bottom of a box large enough to hold all the meat,
pack a layer of snow. Put in a larger of the frozen meat, packing in
such a way that the pieces do not touch each other. Cover with a
layer of snow, and continue with alternate layers of meat and snow.
Set the box in a room where it will not be subject to changes in
temperature. For convenience, it is well to pack the steaks in one
section or end of the box, and the roasts and stews in another. The
meat will then be but little disturbed when a supply is taken from the
box. Only snow should be used in packing. Be sure the meat is
frozen solid before packing, and it will keep through the winter,
unless the weather gets very warm. In preparing the meat for the
table, it should not be thawed out too rapidly.

§ 53. Partial Cooking

Partial cooking and packing in jars is a method of preserving meat

which is sometimes used on the farm. It has the advantage over
snow packing in that it can be done in warm weather and is a most
satisfactory way of keeping fresh pork. However, it requires
considerably more work than other methods of preserving meat.
The loin and side meat, or any part of the carcass, may be used. Cut
into slices about one-half inch thick, and fry until a little more than
half done. Pack the slices in a jar and cover with hot lard. As the
meat is wanted, it can be removed from the jar and warmed up. If the
jar is to stand any length of time without using, after it has been
opened, it is best again to cover the top with lard. It is better to use
several small jars than one large one. They should be kept in a cool,
dark room to insure safe-keeping of the meat.

§ 54. Rendering Lard

The leaf lard, fat back, and fat trimmings from the hams, shoulders
and neck make good lard. Intestinal fat should never be mixed with
the other fat parts, as it makes a strong smelling lard of an inferior
grade, but should be rendered by itself. By thorough washing and
soaking in cold water for several hours, part of the offensive odor will
leave it.
First of all, remove the skin from the fat trimmings. To do this, place
the meat on a table, skin side down, and cut the fat from the skin,
using a strong knife. When a piece of skin large enough to grasp is
freed from the fat, take it in the left hand, and, with the right hand,
insert the knife between the skin and fat. Pull the skin and cut with
the knife slightly slanted downward. With a little practice, the fat can
be cleanly removed from the skin in this way with one clean cut of
the knife. The strips of fat should then be cut into cubes of one to
one and one-half inches, making them about equal in size so they
will try out evenly.
Pour into the kettle about a quart of water or melted lard, and then fill
it nearly full with the cubes of fat meat. The fat will then heat properly
and the lard will be brought out without burning. Keep a moderate
fire until the cracklings are brown and light enough to float. Frequent
stirring is necessary to prevent burning. When done, remove from
the fire and allow to cool slightly. Then strain through a muslin cloth
into a jar. Stir it occasionally, until it is cool enough to begin to
solidify. Stirring while it is cooling tends to whiten the lard and make
it smoother. A quarter of a pound of saleratus added to each one
hundred pounds of fat has a like effect.
When removing lard from a container for use, take it evenly from the
surface. Do not dig down into the center of the lard, for when this is
done, it will leave a coating of lard around the sides of the container
which will become rancid very quickly by the action of bacteria in the
air.

§ 55. Smoked Meats

The process of smoking helps to preserve meat, and, if smoked

properly, and with the right kind of fuel, adds a desirable flavor to
meat. The creosote formed by the combustion of the wood closes
the pores to some extent, and excludes the air. This also helps to
keep out the insects.
§ 56. The Smokehouse

The size of smokehouse to build depends on the amount of meat

that is to be smoked. In a house eight feet square and ten feet high,
the hams, sides, and shoulders of three to five hogs can be smoked
at one time. Ventilation should be provided to carry off the warm air
in order to prevent overheating the meat. A chimney, made by
placing a six inch tile in the roof, makes a good ventilator. The smoke
house walls may be built of lumber, brick, or concrete. Lumber would
be the cheapest, but least permanent, and concrete the most costly.
Brick is no doubt the most satisfactory material for a small smoke
house in southern China. Mud bricks may be used, but burnt clay
bricks are more lasting. The roof should be made of tile. The best
material for the floor is large square tiles, called in Chinese taai
ch’uen ( 大 磚 ). Concrete or brick may also be used, but would be
more expensive then taai ch’uen.
A good arrangement is to have the fire box outside the smoke
house, with a flue to carry the smoke into the smoke house. When
this cannot well be arranged, a fire may be built on the floor of the
house, and the meat shielded from heavy smoke by a sheet of tin,
about four feet square, placed over the fire between the fire and the
meat, about three feet above the floor.

§ 57. The Fuel

Lychee, or any other hard wood, makes good fuel for smoking meat.
Resinous woods, such as pines and cedars, should never be used
as they give an objectionable flavor to the meat due to turpentine
which they contain.

§ 58. Preparing Meat for Smoking

Meat that is to be smoked should be removed from the brine and

thoroughly washed in tepid water in order to clean off the coat of
pickle that has formed on the surface of the meat. It can then he
hung up in the smokehouse, but should be allowed to drain for a day
or two before the fire is started. The pieces of meat should be hung
so that the air can pass freely between them.

§ 59. The Fire

For the first day or two, the fire should be slow, in order that the
warming of the meat may be gradual. In clear, dry weather, smoking
may continue from the day the smoking begins until it is completed,
which should be in one to three weeks, the length of time depending
on the size of the pieces of meat and on the weather. When
sufficiently smoked, the meat will have a characteristic straw color.
Meat should never be smoked on a damp day, because in a damp
atmosphere moisture will condense on the meat, and moist meat will
not smoke well. Light smoking for two weeks is better than heavy
smoking for one week. With a longer period of smoking the smoke
will enter the meat more thoroughly.

§ 60. Keeping Smoked Meats

During cool weather smoked meats may be left in the smokehouse

for some time after the smoking process is completed. The house
should be kept dark in order to keep out flies, and it should be well
ventilated so as to prevent dampness. A dry, cool cellar, with free
circulation of fresh air, will be a satisfactory place for keeping
smoked meats.
If the smoked meat is to be kept only a short time, it needs only to be
hung up without covering. For longer keeping, it is well to wrap first
in paper, and then in burlap, canvass or muslin, and bury the meat in
a grain bin or box of sand. The object of this is to provide a condition
which will be uniform in temperature and keep out insects.
A coat of ground pepper, rubbed into the meat before wrapping, will
be distasteful to insects.
After smoked meat has become thoroughly dry, it may be wrapped in
parchment paper and enclosed in a heavy muslin or canvass, which
should be covered with yellow wash or ordinary lime white wash with
glue added.

§ 61. Recipe for Yellow Wash

For one hundred pounds hams or bacon, take: three pounds barytes
(barium sulphate), .06 pound glue, .80 pound chrome yellow (lead
chromate), .40 pound flour, and twelve pounds water.
Put the flour in the water, dissolving all lumps thoroughly. Dissolve
the chrome in a quart of water in a separate vessel, and add the
solution and the glue to the flour and water. Bring the whole to a boil,
and add the barytes slowly, stirring constantly. Make the wash the
day before it is required. Stir it frequently when using, and apply with
a brush.
 Chinese Meat Recipes

§ 62. Bean Sauce Sausage (Laap Ch’eung 腊腸).

Sausage is a very popular meat with the Chinese, especially during

the winter season. It is probably the most widely used of all cured
meats, although as a rule it is quite expensive compared with other
meats.

§ 63. Pickle for Bean Sauce Sausage

For every catty of meat, use:

Saltpeter (siu 硝) 1 mace2 (ts’in 一錢)

Salt (shuk im 熟鹽) 3 mace (ts’in 三錢)
Sugar (ping fa t’ong 冰花糖) 2 mace (ts’in 二錢)
First-drawn bean sauce (t’au ch’au yau 頭抽油) 2 mace
Raw bean sauce (shang ch’au yau 生抽油) 1 mace
Mixture of spices (ng heung fan 五香粉) 1 mace

The mixture of spices is made up of the following:

Red pepper (ch’un tsiu 春椒) 10 mace

Ground anise seed (taai wui 大回) 10 mace
Cloves (ting heung 丁香) 10 mace
Cinnamon (yuk kwai 玉桂) 10 mace

These spices should be purchased separately and never ready

mixed, as ready made mixtures are often worthless.
Sometimes two orange peelings, finely cut or ground, fresh or dried
are used for every ten catties of meat. Two mace of double distilled
wine (sheung ching tsau 雙蒸酒), or treble distilled wine (saam ching
tsau 三 蒸 酒 ), and a wine called (fan tsau 汾 酒 ), are sometimes
added for each catty of meat. The wine helps preserve the meat.
The above spices should be carefully mixed and the mixture
thoroughly stirred into the meat. In mixing the spices the usual
method is to use the hands as mixers. A better way is to use a large
spoon, or some similar utensil.

§ 64. Preparation of the Meat for Sausage

Use hams, shoulders, chops, fat back, and neck. Sometimes the
liver is added to give a dark color. No belly meat or tough parts
should be used. Separate the lean from the fat meat. Chop into
pieces about one-quarter inch in diameter, or run through a sausage
mill. One part fat and one part lean meat is generally used, though
the proportion may vary either way, to suit the taste and demand.

§ 65. Sausage Casing (Ch’eung I 腸衣)

Sausage casing is generally made from the middle coat of the small
intestines of sheep although it is also made from the intestines of the
hog. The casing is very thin and transparent. Some casing is
prepared in Canton, but most of what is used in Canton comes from
Shanghai, as there are comparatively few sheep or goats
slaughtered in Canton. The dried casing sells for $3.00 to $6.00 a
catty.

§ 66. Softening the Casing

When ready to be used, the casing should be immersed in luke

warm water for a few minutes to soften it. If the walls of the casing
adhere to each other so that it is difficult for the meat to enter, water
should be forced through to distend the casing.
§ 67. Filling the Casing

Insert the small end of the filler (a tin funnel about six inches long)
into the end of the casing. Hold the casing tightly to the filler with the
left hand, and with the right hand force the meat through the filler into
the casing. It is customary to use the hand for this, but a large
wooden spoon would work just as well.
A sausage stuffing machine can be purchased for a few dollars, and
will do the work of stuffing in a much more satisfactory manner than
it can be done by hand. The end of the casing is tied around a tube
at the bottom of a jar containing the sausage meat. A disc the size
and shape of the inside of the jar is then pressed down on the meat
with a lever, and the meat is thus forced into the casing. Such a
machine will do the work of five or six men, and if of the right type,
can also be used as a lard press. If it is difficult to force the meat into
the casing, on account of compressed air, the air should be allowed
to escape by punching small holes in the casing with pins. The
stuffed casing is usually tied with a string every six inches, cut into
convenient lengths, and hung up to dry.

§ 68. Sunning and Drying

The sausage should be prepared in the morning, so that it can be

hung up to sun by noon. If it is prepared in the afternoon, there is
some danger of its spoiling, especially if the day is not very cold,
because it has to be stored over night before it gets much sun.
Sunshine and cold north wind are needed to make the best sausage.
With five days of wind and sun, the meat becomes hard and firm. In
case of rainy or damp weather while the sausage is being dried, it
must be hung up in a small room and a small charcoal or wood fire
kept burning underneath. If the sausage is not well sunned or dried,
it is very likely to spoil, and an effort should be made to get it pretty
well dried within five days.

§ 69. Season and Weather for Making Sausage

The time for making sausage is when there is a dry, cold wind
blowing from the north. Such weather usually does not occur before
the middle of November. From this time to the middle of January is
usually the best season. If made earlier, the weather will not be cool
enough. If made later, the chances for sunny weather are lessened,
and the meat is not apt to cure so well.

§ 70. Lean Pork Sausage (Shau Yuk Ch’eung 瘦肉腸)

This sausage is made the same as ordinary sausage, except that

only lean meat is used.

§ 71. Liver Sausage (Yun Ch’eung 潤腸)

In this sausage, duck liver is used instead of lean meat. Otherwise, it

is made the same as ordinary sausage.

§ 72. Tung Koon Sausage (Tung Koon Laap Ch’eung 東莞腊腸)

This is the same as ordinary bean sauce sausage, except that large
casings are used. It is not very popular because of its size.

§ 73. Oyster Sauce Sausage (Ho Yau Ch’eung 蠔油腸)

This is made in the same manner as ordinary sausage, except that

oyster sauce (ho yau 蠔油) is used instead of bean sauce in making
up the pickle.

§ 74. Catsup Sausage

Catsup sausage is the same as ordinary sausage, except that for

every catty of meat, three taels of catsup instead of bean sauce are
used.

§ 75. Roast or Baked Sausage (Foh Ch’eung 火腸)

Prepare ordinary sausage, but use large casings. Dip in honey
solution, and bake or roast.

§ 76. Cured Ham

An excellent cured ham is produced in Yunnan Province. This is due

to the fact that the hogs in that region are largely of the bacon type,
and the climate is very favorable for curing meat, being dry and fairly
cool during the meat curing season.
In curing ham, the Chinese use much the same method as is used in
western countries in making dry cured ham, except that sugar is not
used in the pickle. The pickle is made up as follows: Salt (shuk im 熟
鹽) 20 catties (kan 卄斤), Saltpeter (siu 硝) .05 tael (半錢), mixture of
spices (ng heung fan 五香粉) 2 taels (leung 二両).
Rub each piece of meat for one-half hour. Puncture the meat with
needles so the pickle will work in well. Rub again in two days. For
the two days after the first rubbing with the pickle, keep under
pressure to squeeze out the water. After the second two days, rub
again with the pickle. Rub again after two more days. Then the meat
is packed in salt for fifteen days, when it is taken out and the salt
wiped off and the meat is allowed to dry and harden. Curing should
require forty days. The flavor improves with age.

§ 77. Sun Dried Pork (Shau Laap Yuk 瘦𦡳肉)

Sun drying is a common method of curing pork in the Canton region.

For this purpose, head, side, ham, and shoulder meat is used. The
meat is cut in strips, about eight to ten inches long, and about one
inch thick. It is immersed over night in a pickle which is the same as
the one used in making sausage, and the next day rubbed with a
mixture of honey and water (mat t’ong shui 蜜糖水), made up of one
part honey and one part water, and hung up to dry in the sun for two
days. Again it is soaked in the pickle for a short time, and dried in the
sun for two days. This is done a third time. Then it is put in a stone
jar in a cool, dry place for two days, and again hung up to dry for one
week, when it is cured. When cured, the fat meat is rather firm.
Pork can be sun dried in the Canton region between the first of
November and the middle of January. Dry, north wind is best for
curing. If cured later than January, it must be consumed immediately
as it will not keep long.

§ 78. Pickled Pig Feet (Ch’aat T’ai 札蹄)

In making pickled pig feet, the bone is first removed from the leg,
leaving only the meat, skin and toes. Boil, and stuff with roast fat and
lean meat to take the place of the bone. Tie up with rice straw, and
immerse in the sausage spice for several hours.

§ 79. Pickled Beef

Cut the beef into pieces weighing about four or five taels. Rub each
piece thoroughly with salt. Place the meat in a jar and cover with
salt. In one or two weeks, the meat is cured and ready to use. Soak
in water for one-half hour before using in order to remove part of the
salt.

§ 80. Dried Rice Bird (Laap Woh Fa Tseuk 腊禾花雀)

Remove the feathers, internal organs, and brain. Then treat same as
in making sun dried pork.

§ 81. Pork Stuffed Liver (Kam Ngan Yun 金銀潤)

Use the liver of hogs. Cut into strips about one inch wide. Use wine
and ginger for flavoring. Half dry it in the wind. It should not be
overdried, as it will then be hard to digest. Prepare fat meat by
cutting strips of it into such sizes that they can be inserted into the
liver. Soak the fat meat in a solution of salt, saltpeter, and sugar, in
proportions of 3-2-1. Finally, half dry the fat by hanging in the sun for
several hours. With a wooden stick, make pockets in the strips of
liver from one end to the other, and insert the strips of fat meat into
the pockets. The strips of stuffed liver should then be hung up to dry
for a half day.

§ 82. Lo Mei (Lo Mei 鹵味)

The tongue, bladder, intestine, and liver, are used in making lo mei
although any part of the carcass may be used. It is made by cooking
the meat for ten minutes and then plunging it while still hot into cold
water, cooking for ten minutes again, and then plunging into cold
water. The process should be repeated at least twelve times. The
expansion and contraction of the meat by such handling makes it
very tender, and firm. The process of preparing this meat is called
“crossing the river.”
The boiled meat should be put into a strong solution of spices
prepared before hand, which is the same as the mixture of spices
used for making the pickle for sausages. After remaining in the
solution of spices over night, the meat is ready to be eaten.

§ 83. Roast Meat (Shiu Yuk 燒肉)

Poultry, or pigs weighing up to one hundred catties, frequently are

roasted. Two methods are used. Poultry and small pigs may be
roasted in pans in an ordinary oven. The other method, which is the
one commonly used, is to roast in a special oven. The latter method
requires more skill than roasting in the ordinary oven. The oven is in
the form of a cylinder stood on end, thirty to forty inches in diameter,
and five or six feet high. The poultry or pig is hung on iron bars
across the top of the stove, and the stove or oven is then covered
with an iron lid. Fire is built at the bottom of the cylinder through an
opening at one side. Dry hard wood or charcoal, which give but little
smoke, are generally used for fuel. The meat being roasted needs
constant attention and shifting so that it will roast through uniformly.
It is said that when the meat gives off a white smoke, it is an
indication that it is done. A solution made up of one part honey and
one part water is rubbed on the meat, both inside and outside the
carcass, before the roasting. This honey solution gives the outside of
the meat a desirable rich reddish brown color when roasted.

§ 84. Dried Duck (Laap Aap 腊鴨)

For one dressed bird, use five taels of salt, which should be well
rubbed into the meat. Then pack in salt for one day. Take up, wash
off the salt, and put between two bamboo mats. Apply pressure for a
few days, and hang up to dry.
The Canton climate is not very favorable for drying duck, as during
the meat curing season it frequently rains. If the meat does not dry
fairly rapidly, it is likely to spoil. In Naam On, Kwong Sai province,
where it is generally dry during the curing season, the ducks are
packed away after two days exposure to the sun. In Canton, it often
takes two weeks. Ducks’ heads, kidneys, feet and other parts of the
bird are also cured in the same way.

§ 85. Puffed Pig Skin (Chue P’ei 豬皮)

In making puffed pig skin, the pig skin is first cooked, and then
thoroughly scraped with a knife in order to remove the oil and fat. It
is then hung up in the sun to dry for about ten days. When it is ready
for the puffing or blistering process, which is accomplished by
roasting the dried skin in hot gravel in a shallow pan over a slow fire
This process whitens and puffs, or blisters, the skin.
The puffed pig skin is cut into small cubes and used in soups. It has
a spongy appearance with very little taste.
The skin on the hams, shoulders, and sides will puff the best, while
the skin on the back, legs, and belly will not puff well on roasting in
the hot gravel, but can be puffed by roasting in peanut oil.
On account of dampness and cloudy weather which interfere with
proper drying, puffed pig skin is best made during the dry, sunny
winter months. The product is on sale, however, throughout the year,
as it keeps well if hung in a fairly dry, airy place. It is commonly seen
hanging in the front of meat shops in Canton.
 1 For further details on smoking, see sections 55 to 61.
2 Note: 1 mace = 1⁄100 ounce; 16 ounces = 1 catty.

AGRICULTURAL PUBLICATIONS
OF THE
CANTON CHRISTIAN COLLEGE
The following agricultural bulletins and publications may be obtained at the price indicated
from College Bookstore, Canton Christian College, Cantor, China.

Bulletin No. 5. Groff, G. W., Agricultural Reciprocity between

America and China. Illustrated. 40 pp. $0.20.

Bulletin No. 12. Groff, G. W., The Papaya for South China.
Illustrated. 8 illustrations, 7 pp. $0.10.
Chinese edition under title 木瓜. 8 pp. $0.10.

Bulletin No. 18. Levine, C. O., and Cadbury, W. W., A Study of Milk
Produced in Kwangtung. 9 pp. $0.10.

Bulletin No. 20. The 1917–18 Journal of the Lingnaam Agricultural

Society (in Chinese). Illustrated. 150 pp. $0.20.

Bulletin No. 23. Levine, C. O., Notes on Farm Animals and Animal
Industries in China. Illustrated. 8 illustrations, 54 pp. $0.40.

Bulletin No. 25. Graybill, H. B., Lawn Grasses for South China. 6
illustrations, 6 pp. $0.20.

Bulletin No. 27. Levine, C. O., Butchering and Curing Meats in

China. Illustrated. 7 illustrations, 41 pp. $0.20.

Groff, G. W., The Lychee and Lungnan. Canton, 1920. 60

illustrations, 149 pp. Cloth bound. $2.20.
 CANTON CHRISTIAN COLLEGE
CANTON, CHINA
ADMINISTRATIVE AND AGRICULTURAL STAFF

Charles K. Edmunds, ph.d. (Johns Hopkins University), President.

Chung Wing Kwong, Chu Jen, Vice-President.
Owen E. Pomeroy, b.a. (Harvard University), Bursar.
Kenneth Duncan, m.a. (University of Wisconsin), Dean of the
College of Arts and Sciences.
George Weidman Groff, m.s. (Pennsylvania State College),
Professor of Horticulture and Director of Agricultural Work.
Charles Walter Howard, m.s. (University of Minnesota),
Professor of Biology.
Clinton N. Laird, m.a. (University of Pennsylvania), Professor of
Chemistry.
Carl Oscar Levine, m.s. in Agr. (Iowa State College of Agriculture
and Mechanic Arts), Associate Professor of Animal Husbandry.
Taam Sik Hung, b.s. in Agr. (Kansas State Agricultural College),
Instructor in Animal Husbandry.
Walter Leon Funkhouser, b.s. in Agr. (Pennsylvania State
College), Instructor.
Floyd A. McClure, b.s. in Agr. (Ohio State University), Instructor.
Fu Po Kwong, m.s. in Agr. (Michigan Agricultural College),
Instructor.
Edmund A. Gilbert, Instructor.

CO-OPERATING COLLEGE MISSIONS

Pennsylvania State College Mission
Kansas State Agricultural College

TRUSTEES OF CANTON CHRISTIAN COLLEGE

156 Fifth Avenue
New York, U. S. A.
W. Henry Grant, Secretary
 Transcriber’s Notes.

Minor errors in punctuation have been corrected.

Numbers within braces indicate original printed page number.
Table of Contents: “Preface” added to Table of Contents for completeness.
Table of Contents: “Blood Sausage” added to Table of Contents to match book text.
Page 10: “in other to get a uniform scald” changed to “in order to get a uniform scald”.
Page 15: “Killing and Dressing Cattle” changed to “Killing and Dressing Beef” to match
table of contents.
Page 21: “with them be is usually” changed to “with them is usually”.
Page 24: “Recipes for Curing” changed to “Recipes for Curing Meats” to match table of
contents.
*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BUTCHERING
AND CURING MEATS IN CHINA ***

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