Proceedings of the International Conference on Global Politics and Socio-Humanities

DOI: 10.54254/2753-7064/15/20230563

A Kernel Inquiry into Genderless Fashion: The Social

Concepts It Conveys
Sichen Fan1,a,*
School of Humanities and Social Sciences, Xi’an Jiaotong-Liverpool University, Suzhou, China
1

a. Caichen.Fan22@student.xjtlu.edu.cn
*corresponding author

Abstract: In recent years, a type of clothing form for both men and women, which is called
genderless clothing, has become popular. This concept has appeared more and more
frequently in people’s eyes and become a global trend. The popularity of genderless fashion
is not just a style of dress, it is accompanied by a variety of social concepts and progress.
This study reviews the development of genderless fashion and analyzes some of the core
reasons why it has become a global trend, exploring the development of social attitudes that
fashion reflects. It is mainly related to four factors: Generation Z’s need for expression,
non-binary gender identity, the awakening of feminist consciousness, and brand-new
consumer demand. These findings help people understand the connection between fashion
trends and social values, the spiritual needs of contemporary people and also provide
apparel developers with a more comprehensive perspective to further recognize the core
needs of consumers.

Keywords: gender, unisex, fashion, feminism

1. Introduction
Fashion has always been a significant means of self-expression, as well as one of the most
important ways of disseminating information. Social perceptions and values will be mapped onto
clothing trends. For a long time, binary gender concepts have created established gender patterns in
the fashion market. Instantly, until the late 1800s, women were expected to wear dresses to
emphasize femininity and elegance. Because of society’s gender stereotypes, women are expected
to be sexual, gentle, and handy, while men are mature, capable, and serve in major diplomatic roles
and jobs. Prom dresses and suits each have these distinctive characteristics: dresses show off
beautiful lines and ornate dresses, emphasizing the feminine, while suits slim down the figure, make
people look straight, and conform to the expectation that men are smart and reliable. These old-
fashioned notions have been abandoned in modern times, but there are still many gender-specific
stereotypes that are reflected in clothing design.
Genderless style refers to the state of designing clothing from a neutral point of view without
pointing to a clear position of either gender. At a time when men’s and women’s clothing styles are
polarized in response to gender perceptions, the genderless style has emerged as a unique fashion
trend and has created an unprecedented craze at the moment. The genderless fashion phenomenon
has recently emerged as a new standard and has been cited as a major trend among consumers.

© 2023 The Authors. This is an open access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License 4.0
(https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/).

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DOI: 10.54254/2753-7064/15/20230563

Nowadays, the advancement of fashion is not only reflected in the design of the clothing itself
but also in the avant-garde concepts it spreads and evokes in people’s consciousness. Clothing is
not only about visual effects but also about people’s spiritual needs. Genderless fashion, an
emerging craze in recent years, has seen fewer in-depth studies on its core, mostly centered around
only one characteristic of the fashion. Most people also merely follow this fashion trend without
seeing the essence behind it and its projection of social issues, and the existing literature is mostly
one-sided, rarely providing a more comprehensive view of the trend. For example, Jo B. Paoletti
describes the rise of genderless clothing in the post-war period in terms of sexuality theory.
However, most of the existing research focuses solely on the impact of genderless fashion on
masculinity and femininity while ignoring other aspects of its role. The purpose of this article is to
study the history of the development of the genderless fashion wave and its reflection on the needs
and values of contemporary people and to explore the real core of fashion communication.
2. Analysis
2.1. Genderless Fashion Phenomenon
2.1.1.The Historical Development of Genderless Fashion
The origins of the genderless style can be traced as far back as the women’s pantsuit revolution of
1851. For a long time, wearing pants was a male prerogative, and Western women fought a long
battle to legalize pants. In the 19th century, women who wore pants on the street were liable to
imprisonment, and although the Napoleonic Code later repealed the ban on wearing pants, it was
not until the mid-19th century that the clothing reform movement broke the mold. Amelia Bloomer
was a 19th-century advocate of the American feminist movement. She was a strong advocate of
freeing women from the confines of the traditional long skirt to wear more comfortable pantaloons
for a variety of activities. In 1851, she recommended Elizabeth Smith Miller’s “Turkish trousers”,
now known as “bloomers”, in her newspaper, The Lily, which gave women the right to wear pants
under their skirts, popularizing the style of “pantaloons” and breaking down gender stereotypes in
dress for the first time [1].
The popularity of pantsuits was just the initial step in breaking down gender-fixed dress codes.
In the 1930s, the first female model wearing jeans appeared on the cover of Vogue magazine,
suggesting that jeans were no longer confined to men’s workwear, but were becoming a garment for
both men and women. The trouser suit in turn evolved from a generic garment to a neutral fashion
trend. In the 1950s Hollywood films used jeans as a symbol of defiance, with screen images of
Marlon Brando and James Dean taking hold, which popularized jeans and t-shirts and made them a
fashion trend [2]. This fashion became the democratization of clothing by defying the suit
generation and was the first appearance of the modern genderless trend.
Another historic genderless fashion movement took place in 1968, inspired by the space race and
futurism. Paris runway shows designed by Pierre Cardin, Andre Courreges, and Paco Rabanne all
featured egalitarian “space-age” fashions inspired by a future society that did not differentiate
between men and women [3]. Although this trend was short-lived, it has had a lasting impact.
Designers used simple, fluid silhouettes, graphic patterns, and new synthetic fabrics to create what
they saw as “gender-neutral” clothing, and it made a huge impact. However, due to the limitations
of the era, these garments were made of tights made of synthetic stretch fabrics, which made the
wearer’s gender more visible. Even though gender-neutral images were not realized on a practical
level, the idea of gender neutrality began to be popularized and took hold in people’s minds.

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2.1.2.Recent Modern Breakthroughs in Genderless FashionSubtitle

In the 1990s, the genderless trend resurfaced and became a mainstream trend. Unlike previous
genderless fashion movements, which tended to introduce men’s clothing into women’s spaces,
giving women the freedom to dress as they pleased, the new wave encouraged men to be able to
wear feminized clothing as well. Fashion icons such as Kurt Cobain and David Bowie have worn
feminized prom dresses to encourage and push the trend [4].
In 2016, Jaden Smith modeled for Louis Vuitton’s women’s ad campaign, and he’s considered
one of the flag bearers of genderless fashion. Dressed in a leather jacket and embellished skirt, he
showed no less elegance and beauty in his male body. This major fashion campaign is highly
symbolic: a globally influential fashion brand explains to the public the freedom of gender in
fashion, which encourages many people who would otherwise be confined to a fixed gender fashion
style to dress freely and express themselves confidently.
Genderless fashion began to be a huge global trend and has accelerated considerably in 2020.
According to global shopping platform Lyst, searches for fashion items containing genderless-
related keywords have increased by more than 33% since the beginning of 2021. Gender-neutral
fashion is becoming more pervasive, no longer confined to the promotional and customized
garments of big fashion brands, but rather an integral part of everyday wear, much like the
popularity of jeans and t-shirts a few decades ago.
2.2. Exploring Contemporary Human Rights and Gender Issues Behind Genderless Fashion
2.2.1.Generation Z’s Need for Self-expression
Generation Z, also known as Zoomers, iGen, Homeland Generation, and Gen Tech, is the new
cohort of young. It is usually defined as those born between 1996 and 2010, and is a large group,
accounting for 41% of the world’s population by 2021, and making up a significant portion of the
labor force and consumer spending. At the same time, as the youngest and most promising
generation, their choices often determine the world’s future trends. Therefore, there is no doubt that
Generation Z’s fashion choices have a great influence on the direction and changes of the fashion
market.
Generation Z has been greatly influenced by the products of technology. Unlike their elders, Gen
Z has been exposed to all kinds of high-tech electronics and the Internet since birth and has been
exposed to a huge amount of information from these products since childhood. The high level of
access to information has allowed Generation Z to learn about the world at a very young age
without leaving their homes, and the growing sophistication of the Internet has made it easy for
them to find out what they need to know. However, from another perspective, the vast amount of
information available to them also allows them to consider further exploration of themselves at an
earlier age. At an age when they already expect attention, a platform like the Internet, which allows
them to present themselves to the world, allows them to see more possibilities for their uniqueness
to be noticed, and at the same time amplifies their need for self-expression.
Generation Z especially emphasizes their independence and creativity and dares to challenge the
traditions of older generations like never before. They are often resistant to stereotyping and being
defined by others, and this is reflected in their fashion choices; Generation Z calls for freedom of
gender expression [5], believing that dress styles should not be based on the stereotypical gender
binary, as they are obsessed with freedom of self-expression, and firmly believe that it is up to them
to decide which gender they want to present themselves as, rather than what is already established
by the system already formed by society. Genderless fashion is very much in line with this

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mentality of Generation Z, as it blurs the concept of gender and is extremely inclusive, giving them
a lot of space and freedom of expression.
2.2.2.Non-binary Gender Identity
Since the 2010s, the concept of non-binary gender has become popularized as people have become
more inquisitive about themselves. People realized that gender could be determined by more than
just innate physical characteristics and that more consideration could be given to factors of acquired
socialization. This group of people, known as genderqueers, has become more and more widespread
and has received unprecedented attention from society. 2019 Wechsler’s Dictionary searches for the
word “they”, which refers to non-binary genders, have increased by 313% compared to last year.
This data suggests that the fluidity of this group of people has received great attention from the
public as well as gradually gaining mainstream recognition.
Non-binary people often face multiple issues in their lives: dress is one of them. Clothing often
carries specific gender connotations that derive from sociocultural constructs [6]. Due to the gender
mobility of non-binary gender persons, gender-defined clothing such as men’s or women’s clothing
does not interpret their identity, and such gender stereotypes can easily cause discomfort and
increase gender confusion. Genderless fashion responds to their desire for freedom of gender
identity [7]. Gender-neutral fashion does not presume the gender of the wearer, which first and
foremost gives non-binary gender groups a great deal of respect and room for expression. On this
basis, non-binary genders can face their true gender perception more comfortably and express to the
outside world that they are not bound by a single gender, which is defined by the long-standing
rules of society. In an era when these groups are widely recognized but not fully accepted by society,
discrimination based on gender and sexual orientation is still prevalent. At least with genderless
fashion, they do not feel a strong sense of exclusivity in what they wear. It gives non-binary genders
a good option of not having to forcefully categorize themselves into a certain distinct gender image,
which is quite friendly to the path of exploring people’s identity perceptions. This is what many
non-binary genders have been seeking for a long time: an adequate space.
With the growth of the non-binary gender community, as well as the adoption of homophobic
laws and political protections for LGBTQ+ in an increasing number of countries, genderless fashion,
which is revered by this group, has thus become even more popular [8].
2.2.3.Awakening of Women’s Consciousness and Promotion of Women’s Status
The emancipation of women has always been a major struggle in the development of society.
Throughout the long history of mankind, the status of women has gradually been upgraded in one
revolution and liberation movement after another, some rights have been guaranteed, and women’s
thinking has been further awakened. The trend of genderless fashion also epitomizes women’s
consciousness.
Genderless style first emerged from the feminist movement. Because women’s social status has
been oppressed and encroached upon by men for so long, women have had very little freedom to
dress the way they want to. Although men were also subjected to stereotypical dress codes in the
olden days, women were generally more restricted.
Women are coming to realize that they are oppressed by much of the male gaze and that
society’s overall aesthetic system for women is pretty much built by men. Their curves are one of
the most important parts of this. Men tend to expect women to have full breasts and hips, and
subconsciously instill and solidify this stereotypical idea of beauty by expecting women to dress in
a way that shows this. Sexless clothing, on the other hand, strikes a blow against this: as it does not
serve any purpose of displaying sexuality, and even intentionally blurs the curves of the body. This

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allows women to feel physically and psychologically comfortable wearing them. Physically, the
looser fit provides a more relaxed wearing experience; psychologically, they do not have to worry
about being subjected to the male gaze and they have the freedom to take control of their bodies.
A large part of the popularity of genderless fashion is women’s fight against gender stereotypes
[9]. Women do not have to show off their curves to get attention, they have complete freedom over
their bodies. They have complete freedom over their bodies, and with the awakening of women’s
self-love, women are more concerned about their comfort in what they wear. In addition, genderless
fashion symbolizes the breaking down of gender stereotypes: there are infinite possibilities of
gender expression within genderless expression, which is a projection of the progress of feminism
and is further promoted by women.
2.2.4.Market Demand and Changes in Consumer Spending Habits
Although the idea of “sustainability” has been discussed for many years, “sustainable fashion” is an
emerging concept [10]. Today, the world is facing a “fast fashion crisis”, where styles and trends in
the apparel market are ephemeral, driven by the demands of a constantly renewing market, fuelled
by rapid consumerism and globalization. This has led many fashion production companies to abuse
working conditions to meet the huge demand for affordable clothing in a very short period, leading
to the depletion of natural resources and the degradation of ecosystems, which is a serious violation
of the concept of sustainable development.
Today’s consumers are no longer just one-way receivers of information and no longer follow
market trends; on the contrary, they are more informed than ever before, obtaining brand-related
information and product evaluations through a variety of channels, and often have their views on
fashion concepts, to make the right purchasing decisions and ultimately change the course of
fashion. They are equally attentive to the manufacturing process of goods and care about the impact
it has on the ecosystem, which fuels the push for sustainable fashion. However, such a development
model, which is often only ethically bound, can easily be shaken and broken by practical reasons, as
it is very easy to lag behind the course of societal trends by adhering to traditional slow fashion
styles, and not all consumer groups can afford the practices involved in sustainable production, due
to time and other reasons.
Genderless fashion, on the other hand, offers an alternative to the revolution in sustainable
fashion. Clothing in this category does not have a specific gender expression but fulfills the function
of clothing, with characteristics such as width and comfort that can be utilized over a long period,
while still possessing elements of fashion. While consumers’ choices are often greatly limited when
garments have gender-specific elements, genderless garments, as a medium of expression for all, no
longer pose this problem, which broadens consumers’ choices and saves them time in making
purchases. On the other hand, genderless clothing reduces the amount of detail and process involved
in the design, making it easier to manufacture and promote on the shelves, which is in line with the
trend of sustainable fashion and preserves the industry’s demand patterns.
3. Conclusion
The global popularity of genderless fashion today is proof that the values it expresses and transmits
are universally recognized. At the same time, the concepts of society have progressed to a certain
level. Generation Z’s desire for self-expression is the strongest in generations, and because they are
young and energetic, they have the basic ability to make changes in society according to their ideas
and needs. Genderless fashion, as a kind of representation of the undefined Generation Z, conveys
the voice of young people at this stage. The increased acceptance of non-binary gender identity
perceptions is also a trend reflected in genderless fashion. Likewise, this fashion trend reflects the

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awakening of women’s consciousness and the enhancement of women’s identity. Both trends
represent an increase in the openness of societies and a greater appreciation of human rights. Along
with the improvement of social civilization, people’s concepts will further progress and open up.
Genderless fashion, as a form of clothing with a high degree of freedom of expression, is in line
with the trend of open-mindedness. In addition, the concept of sustainability is also projected in a
genderless fashion. As people pay more and more attention to the ecological environment,
sustainable development will be further promoted. The design and production model of asexual
clothing is in line with this concept and is therefore popular with developers. To summarize,
genderless fashion is a pioneering and highly inclusive form of fashion that carries and spreads
many social concepts. It has a kernel of social progress, which is a good trend and will continue to
grow in the future as society progresses, serving as a fad for a longer period.
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