Davies Kate - Buachaille - 2015

BUACHAILLE
At home in the Highlands

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BUACHAILLE
first published in 2015 by

kate davies designs
© copyright kate davies designs, 2015
all rights reserved
BUACHAILLE
EXPLORATION
CONTENTS
4 ABOUT BUACHAILLE
Kate talks about her decision to create her
58 BUACHAILLE: RECIPES
Using traditional ingredients and techniques, Tom
own brand of Scottish wool. brings you a taste of Scotland.
6 AT HOME IN THE HIGHLANDS

A profound affection for and affinity with
60 holy fair farls
the Scottish Highlands roots Tom and Kate in 62 seed & herb oatcakes
their surroundings.
64 crowdie
10 BUACHAILLE: PATTERNS
Kate has created twelve colourful and quick-to-knit 66 cranachan
designs to warm your head, hands, neck and feet

…and even decorate your tree.
68 lavender shortbread
12 kokkeluri 70 BUACHAILLE: A WALK IN THE HIGHLANDS

Enjoy a spectacular walk around iconic West
Warm colourwork mittens with a Highland peak, Buachaille Etive Mòr, with
stunning floral design. mountain leader, Gordon Anderson.
18 cochal
A cosy cowl showcasing a simple 78 SPECIAL TECHNIQUES
All the knitterly advice you need.
slipped stitch pattern.
22 baffies: stranded and striped 80 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Meet the team behind Buachaille.
A pair of house slippers using some
nifty knitterly techniques. 81 ABBREVIATIONS
A list of abbreviations appears on the inside
30 pawkies: stranded and striped back cover.
Slip on these mitts when you feel a nip
in the air.
38 bunnet: stranded and striped

A simple hat with a dramatic crown.
46 whigmaleeries
Festive decorations for your tree.
50 oobit
Knitted first, then felted, these simple
bracelets are fun to make.
54 cairngorm
Follow a Victorian button-making
method to create this attractive brooch.
2
EXPLORATION
3
About Buachaille
A
bout a decade ago, I rediscovered knitting. From the Inspired by these producers, and with an ever-growing
moment I picked up my needles again I really enjoyed desire to knit with a yarn that really captured the flavour of the
working with wool, but what really opened my eyes Scottish landscape in which I lived and worked, I decided that I
to the creative possibilities of this wonderful fibre was might try to create my own.
my first visit to Woolfest in Cumbria. Organised by the talented My yarn would be a 100% Scottish wool, and I really
women of the Wool Clip co-operative, Woolfest is an annual wanted it to reflect Scotland’s beauty, drama, and variety. From
celebration of British sheep and wool. Highland mountains to Hebridean beaches, from the heather
At Woolfest I met a lot of enthusiastic small producers, hills of Yell to the rolling Borders country, sheep are a crucial
and I met a lot of lovely sheep. I began to understand about part of this landscape, and in many ways, define it.
their different breed and fleece types and I got a sense of the I approached my friend Adam Curtis (a geniune wool-expert
hard work involved in caring for these animals. I suddenly and enthusiast), and told him about the Scottish breed and
appreciated how the character of these sheep and the wool fleece types I really liked, and the combination of characteristics
they grew was reflected in the yarns I most liked to use. The that I most wanted my yarn to have. I asked him to find the best
yarns I enjoyed were robust and sheepy, springy and lofty. Scottish fleeces, to sort them, and to comb them in traditional
They were beautiful to knit with, but they were resilient too, worsted fashion (worsted processing removes the majority of
working up into garments that would last through many coarse, short hairs in the fleece, and makes a smooth, strong
years of wear. yarn ideal for hand knitting). I said I would like knitters to
As I learned more about the provenance and production feel pleasantly surprised when they first handled the yarn. It
of wool, my knitterly horizons expanded in a profound and would wear its provenance on its sleeve and be quite obviously
important way. As I knitted with a yarn of whose background sheepy, but it would also feel soft and light and springy. Adam
I was aware, I was adding to its story. With that yarn I was went away, worked really hard, and six months later sent me a
making a wearable object, whose history was intertwined “top” combed from the Scottish fleeces he’d selected. I knew as
with distinctive landscapes, particular kinds of animals, and soon as I put the fibre in my hand that he had got it just right.
different kinds of human labour. Knowing much more about
the provenance of wool, and appreciating its unique properties a woolly journey
really made my knitting come alive. So there began the woolly journey that has led to this book.
Along the way I’ve learnt so many new things about wool and
working with wool yarn, about spinning and dyeing, and about things I never
Soon after, I started out as a designer, and I decided that I thought I’d ever think about (such as different kinds of tags and
wanted to work with businesses who were equally interested string). Buachaille is the realisation of a long-held dream for me
in issues of place and provenance, and who were genuine – a yarn with bags of Scottish character, as hardy and beautiful
supporters of sheep and wool. So I sourced my raw materials as the landscape from which it hails. The yarn is “raised”
from people such as Oliver Henry of Jamieson & Smith (a true in Scotland, but “made” in Yorkshire, and I am very proud
champion of Shetland wool if ever there was one) and Andie that all of Buachaille’s processing was completed within a 10
Luijk of Renaissance Dyeing (who developed and hand-dyed mile radius of Bradford, the historic heart of the British wool
her own wonderful breed-specific yarns). These individuals industry. I feel particularly happy that, in all the work involved
and companies believed passionately in the value and unique in Buachaille’s production, from the hill to the mill, it seems to
properties of wool, and their yarns were always of the very me to embody the very best that British wool can be. I hope
highest quality. you love it just as much as I do.
Kate Davies
4
5
Outdoors and indoors with Kate Davies.
I
grew up in a post-industrial town in a valley in the North
West of England. It is a place of which I’m very fond, and
perhaps most so for the dramatic hills that surround it.
These hills were where I first fell in love with the outdoors –
I enjoyed the way that everyday niggles seemed to magically
disappear when one went out walking, and loved the broader
perspective one gained of the Lancashire landscape from
the top of a hill. As a teenager and student, I expanded my
horizons, hitching around the Lake District, nipping up and
down every Cumbrian hill I could.
Then I met Tom – who was, like me, an urban northerner
with a love of the outdoors – and we took a trip from Sheffield
to the Hebrides. On its way to meet the sea at Oban, the bus
wound its way up through the accessible and popular group
of Scottish Highland mountains known as the Arrochar Alps.
We were blown away. Tumbling water! Dramatic crags! Misty
peaks! The rich colours of heather and of bracken! What a
landscape. We had to get out walking in those hills and this was
clearly where we were meant to be. Years later, we have walked
all over Scotland, and we now live with the West Highlands on
our doorstep. It is fair to say that this is a landscape in which we
feel completely and thoroughly at home.
unpredictable landscape
This at-home-ness – this sense of the landscape being “ours”
– is not acquisitive or possessive, necessarily. Being “at home”
here is more about the profound feelings of attachment,
affinity and respect we have for our surroundings. Why do
we love this landscape so? It may surprise you to learn that a
principle reason is the weather. One of my neighbours once
told me about the year she spent in a sunny and much more
temperate part of Europe. She was living in a landscape equally
beautiful and spectacular, but found herself discombobulated
by the weather’s lack of variety, by the sky’s permanent and
predictable blue.
…how lovely it is to come in to a warm pair of baffies, and a hot stove, to enjoy
something Tom has baked, and the occasional wee dram.
7
One thing you can most definitely say about Scottish
weather is that it will surprise you. On a dull day of hodden
grey, a sudden break in the clouds can totally transform the
world. Mountains and trees spring to life and glimmer, russet,
gold and green against extraordinary slate-coloured skies.
These shifts and transformations in the light are sometimes
so dramatic that the landscape can seem, for a moment, to
be alien to itself, but that variety is part of its very being. One
reads a lot about the distinctive qualities of Highland light,
but for me the only quality that defines it is its evanescence.
Perhaps it is so hard to capture because it is almost always
temporary: the stunning colours, the magnificent view, are
there one moment and gone the next. The landscape seems
more precious because it is in a permanent state of appearing
and disappearing. The light is always shifting and changing,
the sky is always moving.
a hunger for the hills

This is a peculiarly mobile landscape, then, and I personally
find that the best way to experience that mobility is if you are
moving too. One can of course see something of the Scottish
Highlands from the window of a car or train, but nothing beats
the experience of being out there on foot. There is a hunger for
the hills which is quite hard to define if you have never felt it,
but it can be gripping and all consuming.
For me, it has never been about “conquering” or “bagging”
a mountain, though there is of course a sense of attainment
associated with just getting up there at all. Many individual
narratives of hill-walking or mountain-climbing are focused
on the self and its aggrandisement, but I think that the
obliteration of ego is probably the best thing there is about
the great outdoors.
There is a peculiar purity of exhilaration which is just about
being somewhere high, and, in the act of traversing a ridge or
group of tops with the world laid out below you, you find your
8
AT HOME IN THE HIGHLANDS
self diminished in the face of something more important. The life

of the mountain is much bigger than yours.
Being “at home” then, is about something beloved, and
something familiar. I think I really started to feel at home in
the Highlands when, from the top of one mountain, I began
to recognise in the view the shapes of those I had previously
climbed. Over time, these hills became like the faces of old
friends I was able to revisit, and memories of previous and
subsequent walks were added to the rich store of pleasures the
landscape afforded. Now I live here, my environs are even more
familiar to me but certainly no less enriching.
indoors and outdoors

I understand much more about how the Highlands are a place
of work, from farming and tourism through to forestry. I know
the names and faces of many different plants and flowers, and
when they bloom and fade. Daily, I see the birds and animals
with whom I have the great privilege of sharing this landscape,
and I understand much more about their relationship with their
environment throughout the turning year.
In all seasons, I am able to spend a couple of hours each day
outside, just walking, and for so many reasons I feel blessed
that that’s the case. This probably makes me sound like Snow
White, tramping about the hills with a smile and a song, and its
important to remember that living in this landscape has what
many might regard as significant negatives. Being “at home in
the Highlands” is very often about mud, wind and rain; about
ticks and midges; about wading chest high through a sea of
bracken; losing one’s boots in a bog; or struggling to find one’s
bearings in a steekit mist.
Indeed, there are undoubted downsides to the changeable
Scottish weather, and being indoors can really be quite nice
too. When the wind is blowing a hoolie and it is, not to put
too fine a point on it, pissing it down; when one is cold and
sodden and at the point of cursing the greatness of the great
outdoors, how lovely it is to come in to a warm pair of baffies,
and a hot stove, to enjoy something Tom has baked, and the
occasional wee dram.
In both its outdoor and indoor aspects, then, this book
speaks to some of the many things that make us feel at home
here. Tom enjoys cooking and devising recipes in much the
same way that I enjoy knitting and creating designs. His
enthusiasm for Scottish oats almost matches mine for wool,
and making this book has given us the opportunity to happily
combine our creative passions and skills. We also asked our
friend Gordon, who knows more about the Scottish Highlands
than anyone we know, to create a guided walk around the
iconic peak after which we named our yarn.
Our projects and photography are intended to give you a
flavour of this landscape, and the affinity we feel for it – and
if you’ve never visited we recommend you come here, take a
spectacular walk with Gordon, and see it for yourself.
We all hope that you enjoy this book!
9
BUACHAILLE
Patterns
10
11
EXPLORATION
12
KOKKELURI
Kokkeluri, or muckle (big) kokkeluri are Shetland dialect
terms for the ox-eye daisy – a familiar wayside sight all
over Scotland in spring and summer. On the mainland,
the word is sometimes rendered differently – cockaloorie –
and is a generic term for any big, blousy flower. With their
large floral motifs and their densely stranded palms, these
colourwork mittens are both decorative and functional,
keeping your hands warm when the winter temperatures
fall. The mittens also feature Latvian braids and i-cord, for
a neat finish.
YARN SPECIAL TECHNIQUES

Buachaille (100% Scottish Wool; 110m / 120yds per 50g skein) See page 78.
MC: Haar 1 x 50g skein
CC: Islay 1 x 50g skein ABBREVIATIONS
Sample used 40g / 88m / 96yds of MC and 44g / 97m / 106yds See full list of abbreviations on inside back cover.
of CC.
PATTERN NOTES
SIZE Blocking
To fit hand circumference: 18-20.5cm / 7-8in These mittens are worked at a dense gauge (to make the fabric
Mitten circumference above thumb: 21cm / 8¼in toasty warm). They should be blocked and stretched quite
Mitten length: 24cm / 9½in vigorously to ensure the yarn and fabric properly relaxes, and
to achieve a good fit. To block mittens, I use the top of a sock
NEEDLES AND NOTIONS blocker (the pointier top end) and stretch the damp mitten
Gauge-size needles of your preferred type for working small down over it, pulling it hard until it reaches the length specified
circumferences for your size.
Crochet hook in a similar size to your gauge-size knitting Alternatively, stretch, stuff with plastic bags, and lie the mitten
needles flat to dry.
Waste yarn
2 stitch markers Stranded colourwork
Tapestry needle Strand the yarn not in use loosely along the back of the work.
If working two-handed, the “foreground” yarn will usually be
GAUGE in your left hand. If you are working with both yarns in one
After washing and vigorous blocking, 30 sts and 32 rounds to hand, the “foreground” yarn will be taken from below. The
10cm / 4in over colourwork stockinette stitch in the round. This palm and back of hand sides of these mittens feature different
was achieved using 2.75mm / UK 12 / US 2 needles. patterns – a large single motif, and a simple allover design. To
Please check your gauge carefully and adjust your needle make the patterns stand out to best advantage, I recommend
size accordingly. ensuring that the “foreground” yarn is the CC on the back of
the hand (motif) and the MC on the palm (allover). This means
SWATCHING that you will swap how you hold the yarns over, half way
The easiest way to swatch for these mittens is to cast on for through each round.
your size, work the braid and a few rounds of the chart until You may wish to weave in the yarn not in use, where floats
the work measures 4-5cm / 1½-2in. Then give the fabric a light would be particularly long (e.g. chart row 15). If you do weave
steam with an iron on the wool setting (do not touch the fabric in your floats, take care not to stack them at the same point, as
with the iron). Stretch the mitten during steaming and allow they may show on the right side of the fabric.
the fabric to relax. Measure your gauge and go up or down a
needle size accordingly.
13
14
KEY LEFT HAND CHART
KOKKELURI
Using MC (Haar); knit 68

Using CC (Islay); knit
65
Using shade indicated by background colour; ssk
Using shade indicated by background colour; k2tog
Using shade indicated by background colour; m1 60
Using shade indicated by background colour; cast on 1 st
15 Refer to written instructions for more information about
55
rounds indicated in pink
50
LEFT THUMB CHART

45 45
40 40
35 35
30 30
25 25
20 20
15 15
10
1
62 60 55 50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 1
INSTRUCTIONS away from the work. By purling on round 3, you
will work the yarns in the opposite direction,
1
braided cuff and the two lengths will magically untangle
themselves, leaving your work twist-free.
Using waste yarn, provisionally cast on 62 sts as
follows: Round 2: Bring both yarns to front of needle,
Make a slip knot and place it on the crochet *p1CC, p1MC*, rep from * to * around, bringing
hook. Hold the crochet hook over a gauge-size each strand over the previous one each time you
knitting needle. Take the waste yarn under the work a stitch.
knitting needle and loop round the crochet Round 3: *P1CC, p1MC*, rep from * to * around,
hook. Pull the loop through the slip knot on the bringing each strand under the previous one
crochet hook. This is your first stitch. *Take yarn each time you make a stitch.
back behind the needle. With the hook over the Rounds 4-6: Using CC, knit.
needle, wrap yarn around the hook, and pull the
yarn through the loop on the hook*. Rep from * To make Left Hand, move to step 2a. To make
to * until you have 62 sts on the knitting needle. Right Hand, move to step 2b.
Now make a few more crochet chains (not over
2a
the knitting needle) as follows: left hand
*Wrap the yarn around the hook and pull yarn
through the loop on the hook*. Rep from * to * Round 1: Reading chart from right to left, work
until you have 4 or 5 chain sts hanging from 62 sts from left hand chart row 1.
the end. Now break the waste yarn and pull Last round sets left hand chart pattern. Changing
through the loop. This chain tells you which end shades as indicated, work from left hand chart
to unzip later. until chart row 14 is complete.
Join in CC, pm and join for working in the round. Round 15: Work 61 sts from left hand chart row
Knit 1 round with CC. 62 sts. 15, pm, then work first row of left thumb chart,
Join in MC. slm (start of round marker). 2 sts inc; 64 sts.
Round 16: Work 61 sts from left hand chart row
Make Latvian braid as follows: 16, slm, then work second row of left thumb
Round 1: *K1CC, k1MC*, rep from * to * around. chart, slm. 2 sts inc; 66 sts.
Last round sets thumb chart pattern between
Note about following rounds: On round 2, your markers. Changing shades as indicated, and
yarns will twist together as you begin to make slipping markers either side of thumb sts, work
the braid. Don’t try to untwist them, or you will from left hand chart, then left thumb chart until
get in a tangle. Rather, pull out a long length of row 29 of left hand chart and corresponding row
yarn from each skein, and push the twist gently of thumb chart are complete. 22 sts inc; 88 sts.
15
KOKKELURI
3
Round 30: Work 61 sts from left hand chart, mitten top
remove marker. Cast on 1 st using the backward-
loop cast-on method. Slip 27 thumb sts to waste Round 69: Using CC, k2tog around. 4 sts remain.
yarn. 62 sts. Draw up yarn through remaining 4 sts and fasten
Rounds 31-68: Work from left hand chart only off to inside.
as set, decreasing sts as indicated. 54 sts dec; 8 sts
4
remain. thumb
Move to step 3.
Slip 27 thumb sts from waste yarn to needles.
2b
right hand Round 30 (Left thumb): Using CC and MC,
work across sts from left thumb chart round 30,
Round 1: Reading chart from right to left, work using CC, cast on 1 st as indicated, pm for start
62 sts from right hand chart row 1. of round. 28 sts.
Last round sets right hand chart pattern. Round 30 (Right thumb): Pm, using CC, cast
Changing shades as indicated, work from right on 1 st as indicated, using CC and MC, work
hand chart until chart row 14 is complete. across sts from right thumb chart round 30.
28 sts.
Round 15: Slm (start of round marker), work first Rounds 31-45: Work from relevant thumb chart,
row of right thumb chart, pm, work 61 sts from decreasing sts as indicated. 22 sts dec; 6 sts
right hand chart row 15. 2 sts inc; 64 sts. remain.
Round 16: Slm, work second row of right thumb Using CC, draw yarn up through these 6 sts and
chart, slm, work 61 sts from right hand chart row fasten off to inside.
16. 2 sts inc; 66 sts.
5
Last round sets right thumb chart pattern finishing
between markers. Changing shades as indicated,
and slipping markers either side of thumb sts, Weigh your remaining yarn. If you have less CC
work from right thumb chart, then right hand than MC, you may wish to use MC for the i-cord
chart until row 29 of right hand chart and bind off (which will use 5g / 11m / 12yds or
corresponding row of thumb chart are complete. more).
22 sts inc; 88 sts. Unzip waste yarn and return 62 sts at cast-on
edge, to gauge-size needles.
Round 30: Slm, slip 27 thumb sts to waste yarn, Using CC (or MC if preferred), work i-cord bind
remove marker. Cast on 1 st using the backward- off across these sts as follows:
loop cast-on method, then work 61 sts from right Using backward-loop cast-on method, cast on 3
hand chart row 30. 62 sts. sts onto lh needle. These are your 3 i-cord sts.
Rounds 31-68: Work from right hand chart only *K2, k2togtbl (this joins 1 of the i-cord sts to 1 of
as set, decreasing sts as indicated. 54 sts dec; 8 sts the cast-on sts). Slip these 3 sts back to lh needle.
remain. Pull working yarn firmly across the back*. Rep
Move to step 3. from * to * until only the 3 i-cord sts remain and
all edge sts are used up.
Work last 3 sts as follows: K1, k2togtbl, slip 2 sts
to left needle, k2tog, pull yarn through.
Neatly join the ends of the i-cord and fasten off
to inside.
Weave in all ends to the back of the work,

neatening thumb join if required.
Soak mittens in cool water and wool wash for
20-30 minutes.
Press out excess water, stretch and dry over sock
blockers (see blocking instructions above).
Enjoy your Kokkeluri!
16
RIGHT HAND CHART KEY
KOKKELURI
68 Using MC (Haar); knit

Using CC (Islay); knit
65
Using shade indicated by background colour; ssk
Using shade indicated by background colour; k2tog
60 Using shade indicated by background colour; m1
Using shade indicated by background colour; cast on 1 st
15 Refer to written instructions for more information about
55 rounds indicated in pink
50
RIGHT THUMB CHART

45 45
40 40
35 35
30 30
25 25
20 20
15 15
10
1
62 60 55 50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 1
17
EXPLORATION
18
COCHAL
Cochal is a Scottish Gaelic word for hood, and this simple

to knit accessory can easily be pulled up, hood-like, to
keep the cold off your neck and ears when you are out
in the hills. Its straightforward design and dimensions
are loosely based on the (usually synthetic) ‘buffs’ often
used by hikers, runners, and other outdoor folk. We prefer
our Cochals to be made from high-performance Scottish
wool, like Buachaille! Working with a larger needle means
the yarn is able to drape and stretch, but still produces a
wonderfully cosy fabric. The striking stitch pattern is very
simple and can be worked by any beginner knitter.
19
COCHAL
YARN HONEYCOMB PATTERN

Buachaille (100% Scottish Wool; 110m / 120yds per 50g skein) Round 1: With MC, knit all sts.
MC: Squall 1 x 50g skein Round 2: With MC, purl all sts.
CC1: Yaffle 1 x 50g skein Rounds 3-6: With CC1, *sl 2, k4*, rep from * to * around.
CC2 (optional): Highland Coo – small quantity Rounds 7-8: As rounds 1 & 2.
Samples used approximately 40g / 88m / 96yds of MC, Rounds 9-12: With CC1, k3, *sl 2, k4* repeat from * to * to
42g / 92m / 101yds of CC1, and 3g / 7m / 8yds of CC2. last 3 sts, sl 2, k1.
Also shown in Islay as MC, Between Weathers as CC1 and Pattern is based on 6-round ‘cells’ and can end on a round 6
Yaffle as CC2; as well as a 2-shade version with Haar as MC or 12.
and Squall as CC1.
ESTIMATING YARN QUANTITIES
SIZE For guidance, if you are knitting to gauge, each 6-round cell
Length: 38cm / 15in should use approximately 3g / 7m / 7yds of CC and 2g / 4m
Circumference: 55cm / 21½in / 5yds of MC.
Cochal can be made shorter or longer as required. Read Weighing your skein before starting the Honeycomb Pattern,
notes on estimating yarn quantities below. and then again after completing a few cells (dividing the
weight of yarn used by the number of cells you have worked)
NEEDLES AND NOTIONS should allow you to ascertain how much yarn per cell you
40cm / 16in gauge-size circular needles are using, and how many cells you can feasibly complete.
40cm / 16in below-gauge-size circular needles (these are 1 The instructions are for a Cochal with 17 cells in total, but
size smaller than the needles you require to get the correct (yarn quantities permitting) you can make yours shorter or
gauge) longer as desired.
Stitch marker; Tapestry needle
ABBREVIATIONS
GAUGE See full list of abbreviations on inside back cover.
20 sts and 30 rounds to 10cm / 4in over Honeycomb Pattern
using gauge-size needles. This was achieved using 5mm /
UK 6 / US 8 needles.
Please check your gauge carefully and adjust your needle
size accordingly.
20
COCHAL
INSTRUCTIONS
1
bottom edging
Using 40cm / 16in below-gauge-size circular needle and

MC, cast on 108 sts, pm, and join for working in the
round.
Round 1: Knit all sts.
Round 2: Purl all sts.
Rep rounds 1 & 2 once more. 4 rounds of garter st
worked.
2
body – bottom
Change to gauge-size needle. Weigh your yarns.

Commence Honeycomb Pattern, joining in CC1 and
working rounds 1-12 four times. Be sure to weigh
your yarn after completing a few cells, following the
instructions above, to ascertain how much yarn each
6-round cell is using.
If you wish to add an optional contrast cell with a second
contrast colour (CC2), move to step 3, otherwise move
directly to step 4.
3
contrast cell
Break CC1, and join in CC2.

Work rounds 1-2 of Honeycomb Pattern in MC, and
rounds 3-6 of Honeycomb Pattern in CC2 (instead of
CC1).
4
body – top
Continue working Honeycomb Pattern using MC and

CC1 as set until 17 cells in total have been worked,
ending with a round 6 (or round 12 if you have changed
the length).
5
top edging
Change to MC (continue using gauge-size needles).

Round 1: Knit all sts.
Round 2: Purl all sts.
Change to below-gauge-size needle, then rep rounds 1
and 2 twice more. 6 rounds of garter st worked.
Bind off all sts loosely.
6
finishing
Soak Cochal in cool water and wool wash. Stretch

vigorously lengthwise (to shape cells) then pin out and
allow to dry. When dry, the fabric should feel quite soft
and stretchy, and you should be able to squish the Cochal
down around your neck, or pull it over your head as
desired.
Enjoy your Cochal!
21
22
BAFFIES: stranded
Baffies is the Scots word for house slippers, and these
two-colour Baffies have a neat and nifty construction.
Choose between a striped or stranded version, both of
which are quick and peculiarly addictive to knit. Will one
pair be enough?
YARN GAUGE
Buachaille (100% Scottish Wool; 110m / 120yds per 50g skein) 26 sts and 29 rounds to 10cm / 4in over both plain and
MC: Ptarmigan 1 x 50g skein colourwork stockinette stitch using gauge-size needles. This
CC: Highland Coo 1 x 50g skein was achieved using size 3.5mm / UK 10-9 / US 4 needles.
A pair of Baffies to fit a foot 24.5cm / 9¾in long used 24g / 53m 22 sts and 40 rows to 10cm / 4in over garter stitch using
/ 58yds of MC and 30g / 66m / 72yds of CC. gauge-size needles.
Larger / smaller Baffies will use more / less yarn. You may need different sized needles to match gauge in all
three stitch patterns.
SIZES Please check your gauge carefully and adjust your needle
Foot circumference: 22cm / 8½in size accordingly.
Foot length: Adjustable within the pattern, within the range
22-26.5cm / 8¾-10½in SPECIAL TECHNIQUES
See page 78.
NEEDLES AND NOTIONS
Two sets of 40cm / 16in gauge-size circular needles for working ABBREVIATIONS
Turkish cast-on See full list of abbreviations on inside back cover.
Gauge-size needles of your preferred type for working small
circumferences
Small quantity of waste yarn
Stitch marker
Tapestry needle
23
BAFFIES: stranded
Step B: Knit 1 round.

Rep steps A and B a further 5 times, then work
step A once more. 28 sts inc; 56 sts.
Next round: K14, pm for new start of round, k to

end. Round now begins and ends at the centre
of the sole.
2
foot
Join in MC.
Round 1: Reading chart from right to left, (work
14 sts from chart row 1) 4 times.
Last rounds sets chart pattern. Changing shades
INSTRUCTIONS as indicated, work from chart until row 31 is
complete.
1
toe
Try on your Baffie. When lightly stretched, it
Using CC, two sets of 40cm / 16in gauge-size should reach the front of the ankle bone on
circular needles and the Turkish cast-on method, outside of foot.
cast on 28 sts as follows: If your Baffie fits, move to step 3. If further
i Hold both sets of circular needles parallel rounds are required, continue to work from chart
in your left hand. Place a slip knot on the row 32, trying on after each couple of rounds
needle closest to you (front needle). Take and completing a maximum of 39 rounds. Make
yarn under the back needle then up and a note of how many rounds you worked. Move
over both pairs of needles towards you. to step 3.
ii Continue to wrap the yarn around both
3
needles until you have 14 wraps (this is heel
half the number of sts you require).
iii Holding the yarn at the back (under both Break yarns. Remove start of round marker.
needles), slip the wraps on the front Moving sts around needle without knitting, slip
needle off the needle tip onto the cable next 19 sts from lh to rh needle.
part of the circular needle. Leave both Slip next 18 sts to waste yarn.
ends of this front needle dangling. Sts remaining on needles are now set up to work
iv Pick up the free needle tip of the rear heel.
needle and knit across 14 wraps (from the
rear needle) to make the first 14 sts of the From the RS, rejoin CC to working sts. Work back
round. Slip these sts to the cable part of and forth as follows:
this circular needle, and return the front Row 1 (RS): Using CC, sl 1, k37.
wraps to a front needle tip. Slide the slip Row 2 (WS): Using CC, sl 1, k37.
knot off the needle tip. Pick up the other Row 3: Using MC, sl 1, k37.
end of the front needle and knit across Row 4: Using MC, sl 1, k37.
these 14 wraps to make the second 14 sts Rows 1-4 set striped garter stitch ridges (2 ridges
of the round. 28 sts. created). Continue to work as set until 10 ridges
You will need to use two circular needles or a (20 rows) have been worked in total.
set of dpns at first, but once you have finished
the toe increases, you will be able to switch to Try on your Baffie.
using your preferred needles for working small If your Baffie almost stretches to back of heel,
circumferences. move to step 4.
If your Baffie does not quite fit, work another 2 or
Step A: *K1, m1, k to 1 st before end of first 4 ridges (making a total of 12 or 14 ridges, thus
needle, m1, k1*, rep from * to * once more for ending with a MC ridge). Make a note of how
second needle. 4 sts inc. many ridges you worked. Move to step 4.
24
BAFFIES: stranded
4
join heel Make a note of the number of rows of plain
i-cord, before fastening off, connecting cord to
Next row (RS): Using CC, k38 (do not slip first st). start of round, and weaving in ends.
Divide sts onto 2 needles (2 sets of 19 sts).
6
second baffie
With a third gauge-size needle, working with RS Make a second Baffie in the same way, being sure
outermost, work a 3 needle bind off across all sts to work the same number of rounds in the foot,
as follows: rows in the heel, and any extra i-cord at the back
Hold needles with live sts parallel in lh. Use the of the heel.
third needle to knit together the first st from
7
front and rear needles. 1 st on rh needle. *Knit finishing
together the first st from front and rear needles.
2 sts on rh needle. Bind off 1 st by lifting the first Soak your Baffies in cool water and wool wash.
over the second st on the rh needle*. Rep from * Press dry between towels. Shape over sock
to * until all sts are bound off. Pull yarn through blockers, or dry flat. Leave to dry completely.
remaining st on rh needle.
Enjoy your Stranded Baffies!
Weave in ends to the back of the work.
5
work edging KEY
Using MC (Ptarmigan); knit
Slip 18 held sts from waste yarn onto spare needle.
Using CC (Highland Coo); knit
From the RS, using CC, beginning at point at
centre back of heel, puk 1 st in each garter ridge CHART
along top of heel; puk 2 sts in gap between heel 39
and foot; k across 18 foot sts; puk 2 sts in gap
between heel and foot; puk 1 st in each garter
ridge along top of heel. 42-50 sts, depending on 35
the length of your Baffie.
You may wish to use larger needles to work the

30
i-cord bind off.
Using backward-loop cast-on method, cast on 3
sts onto lh needle. These are your 3 i-cord sts.
Work i-cord bind off across all sts as follows: 25
*K2, k2togtbl (this joins 1 of the i-cord sts to 1 of
the sts picked up around the edging). Slip these
3 sts back to lh needle. Pull working yarn firmly
across the back*. Rep from * to * until only the 3 20
i-cord sts remain and all edging sts are used up.
Now try on your Baffie. If your Baffie feels right, 15

break yarn, fasten off through final 3 sts, sew the
ends of the cord together and weave in the ends
at the back of the work.
10
If your Baffie feels tight, work a few rows of plain
i-cord (to allow a little ease at the back of the
heel) as follows:
5
*K3. Slip these 3 sts back to lh needle. Pull
working yarn firmly across the back*. RepUsing fromMC
* (Ptarmigan); knit
to * as required. Using CC (Highland Coo); knit 1
14 10 5 1
25
26
BAFFIES: striped
YARN GAUGE
Buachaille (100% Scottish Wool; 110m / 120yds per 50g skein) 26 sts and 29 rounds to 10cm / 4in over stockinette stitch using
MC: Highland Coo 1 x 50g skein gauge-size needles. This was achieved using size 3.5mm / UK
CC: Squall 1 x 50g skein 10-9 / US 4 needles.
A pair of Baffies to fit a foot 23cm / 9in long used 36g / 79m / 22 sts and 40 rows to 10cm / 4in over garter stitch using
86yds of MC and 15g / 33m / 36yds of CC. gauge-size needles.
Larger / smaller Baffies will use more / less yarn. You may need different sized needles to match gauge in both
stitch patterns.
SIZES Please check your gauge carefully and adjust your needle
Foot circumference: 22cm / 8½in size accordingly.
Foot length: Adjustable within the pattern, within the range
22-26.5cm / 8¾-10½in SPECIAL TECHNIQUES
See page 78.
NEEDLES AND NOTIONS
Two sets of 40cm / 16in gauge-size circular needles for working ABBREVIATIONS
Turkish cast-on See full list of abbreviations on inside back cover.
Gauge-size needles of your preferred type for working small
circumferences
Small quantity of waste yarn; Stitch marker; Tapestry needle
27
BAFFIES: striped
2
INSTRUCTIONS foot
1
toe With MC only, knit 32 rounds.
Using CC, two sets of 40cm / 16in gauge-size Try on your Baffie. When lightly stretched, it
circular needles and the Turkish cast-on method, should reach the front of the ankle bone on
cast on 28 sts as follows: outside of foot.
i. Hold both sets of circular needles parallel
in your left hand. Place a slip knot on the If your Baffie fits, move to step 3. If further
needle closest to you (front needle). Take rounds are required, continue knitting, trying
yarn under the back needle then up and on after each couple of rounds and completing
over both pairs of needles towards you. a maximum of 39 rounds. Make a note of how
ii. Continue to wrap the yarn around both many rounds you worked.
needles until you have 14 wraps (this is
3
half the number of sts you require). heel
iii. Holding the yarn at the back (under both
needles), slip the wraps on the front Break yarns. Remove start of round marker.
needle off the needle tip onto the cable Moving sts around needle without knitting, slip
part of the circular needle. Leave both next 19 sts from lh to rh needle.
ends of this front needle dangling. Slip next 18 sts to waste yarn.
iv. Pick up the free needle tip of the rear Sts remaining on needles are now set up to work
needle and knit across 14 wraps (from the heel.
rear needle) to make the first 14 sts of the
round. Slip these sts to the cable part of From the RS, rejoin CC to working sts. Work back
this circular needle, and return the front and forth as follows (carrying shade not in use
wraps to a front needle tip. Slide the slip up the back of the work):
knot off the needle tip. Pick up the other Row 1 (RS): Using CC, sl 1, k37.
end of the front needle and knit across Row 2 (WS): Using CC, sl 1, k37.
these 14 wraps to make the second 14 sts Row 3: Using MC, sl 1, k37.
of the round. 28 sts. Row 4: Using MC, sl 1, k37.
You will need to use two circular needles or a Rows 1-4 set striped garter st ridges (2 ridges
set of dpns at first, but once you have finished created). Continue to work as set until 10 ridges
the toe increases, you will be able to switch to (20 rows) have been worked in total.
using your preferred needles for working small
circumferences. Try on your Baffie.
If your Baffie almost stretches to back of heel,
Step A: *K1, m1, k to 1 st before end of first move to step 4.
needle, m1, k1*, rep from * to * once more for If your Baffie does not quite fit, work another 2 or
second needle. 4 sts inc. 4 ridges (making a total of 12 or 14 ridges, thus
Step B: Knit 1 round. ending with a MC ridge). Make a note of how
Rep steps A and B a further 5 times, then work many ridges you worked. Move to step 4.
step A once more. 28 sts inc; 56 sts.
4
join heel
Next round: K14, pm for new start of round, k to
end. Round now begins and ends at the centre Next row (RS): Using CC, k38 (do not slip first
of the sole. st).
Divide sts onto 2 needles (2 sets of 19 sts).
With a third gauge-size needle, working with RS
outermost, work a 3-needle bind off across all sts
as follows:
Hold needles with live sts parallel in lh. Use the
third needle to knit together the first st from
front and rear needles. 1 st on rh needle. *Knit
28
together the first st from front and rear needles. Now try on your Baffie.
2 sts on rh needle. Bind off 1 st by lifting the first If your Baffie feels right, break yarn, fasten off
over the second st on the rh needle*. Rep from * through final 3 sts, sew the ends of the cord
to * until all sts are bound off. Pull yarn through together and weave in the ends at the back of the
remaining st on rh needle. work.
Weave in ends to the back of the work. If your Baffie feels tight, work a few rows of plain
i-cord (to allow a little ease at the back of the
5
work edging heel) as follows:
*K3. Slip these 3 sts back to lh needle. Pull
Slip 18 held sts from waste yarn onto spare needle. working yarn firmly across the back*. Rep from *
From the RS, using CC, beginning at point at to * as required.
centre back of heel, puk 1 st in each garter ridge Make a note of the number of rows of plain
along top of heel; puk 2 sts in gap between heel i-cord, before fastening off, connecting cord to
and foot; k across 18 foot sts; puk 2 sts in gap start of round, and weaving in ends.
between heel and foot; puk 1 st in each garter
6
ridge along top of heel. 42-50 sts, depending on second baffie
the length of your Baffie.
Make a second Baffie in the same way, being sure
You may wish to use larger needles to work the to work the same number of rounds in the foot,
i-cord bind off. rows in the heel, and any extra i-cord at the back
Using backward-loop cast-on method, cast on of the heel.
3 sts onto lh needle. These are your 3 i-cord sts.
7
Work i-cord bind off across all sts as follows: finishing
*K2, k2togtbl (this joins 1 of the i-cord sts to 1 of
the sts picked up around the edging). Slip these Soak your Baffies in cool water and wool wash.
3 sts back to lh needle. Pull working yarn firmly Press dry between towels. Shape over sock
across the back*. Rep from * to * until only the 3 blockers, or dry flat. Leave to dry completely.
i-cord sts remain and all edging sts are used up.
Enjoy your Striped Baffies!
29
PAWKIES: stranded
Pawkie n. A glove or mitten having one compartment only NEEDLES AND NOTIONS
for all the fingers, and one for the thumb. 40cm / 16in gauge-size circular needles for tubular cast-on
(Dictionary of the Scots Language, 2004) 40cm / 16in below-gauge-size circular needles for tubular cast-
on (below-gauge-size are 1 size smaller than the needles you
require to get the correct gauge)
One of those brilliantly descriptive Scots words, pawkies
Gauge-size and below-gauge-size needles of your preferred
are mitts or mittens. The origin of the word is listed as
type for working small circumferences
“doubtful” in the Dictionary of the Scots Language, Small quantity of smooth waste yarn
but may be a diminutive form of either paw or poke – or Stitch marker
perhaps both, since one’s thumb pokes out of them, and Tapestry needle
they are something to pop on your paws. In northern
England, as well as Scotland, a poke is also a colloquial GAUGE
term for pocket or packet, so perhaps pawkies are, quite Small size
26 sts and 29 rounds to 10cm / 4in over stranded stockinette
literally, hand-pockets. Pawkie is a word with a variety of
stitch using gauge-size needles. This was achieved using
other resonances in Scots too, my undoubted favourite of 3.5mm / UK 10-9 / US 4 needles.
which is the seventeenth-century phrase jiggery-pawkerie 27 rounds to 10cm / 4in over 2x2 rib using below-gauge-size
– the origin of the probably more familiar English term, needles.
jiggery-pokery, meaning trickery. As your fingers are free Large size
and unrestrained, you might, if you wish, get up to all 23 sts and 26 rounds to 10cm / 4in over stranded stockinette
sorts of jiggery-pawkerie in these pawkies, or you might stitch using gauge-size needles. This was achieved using
3.75mm / UK 9 / US 5 needles.
just find them useful to pop on your paws when there’s an
24 rounds to 10cm / 4in over 2x2 rib using below-gauge-size
autumnal chill in the air. needles.
YARN
You may need different sized needles to match gauge in both
Buachaille (100% Scottish Wool; 110m / 120yds per 50g skein)
stitch patterns.
MC: Between Weathers 1 x 50g skein
Please check your gauge carefully and adjust your needle
CC: Ptarmigan 1 x 50g skein
size accordingly.
Large size used approximately 34g / 75m / 82yds of MC and
16g / 35m / 38yds of CC.
SPECIAL TECHNIQUES
See page 78.
SIZES
Small (Large)
ABBREVIATIONS
To fit hand circumference: 17.5-20 (20-23) cm / 7-8 (8-9) in
See full list of abbreviations on inside back cover.
Stranded mitten outer circumference: 22 (24.5) cm / 8½
(9¾) in
The interior circumferences of the striped and stranded mittens
are comparable (because of the extra layer of fabric created
by the stranded colourwork, their interior circumference is
reduced)
Mitten length: 20.5 (23) cm / 8¼ (9) in
31
PAWKIES: stranded
KEY
Using MC (Between Weathers); knit ii. Continue to wrap the yarn around both
needles until you have 22 wraps (don’t
Using CC (Ptarmigan); knit count the slip knot).
13 Refer to written instructions for more needles), slip the wraps on the front
information about rounds indicated needle off the needle tip onto the cable
in pink part of the circular needle. Leave both
ends of this front needle dangling. This
STRANDED PAWKIES CHART front needle now acts as a stitch holder.
iv. Using the gauge-size needle, work 3 rows
28 in stockinette st across the 22 sts on the
back (gauge-size) needle, starting with
25 a knit row. Now slide the sts from the
front needle onto the needle tip so that
both needle tips are pointing in the same
direction, next to the working yarn.
v. Slide the slip knot off the end of the front
20 needle tip. Fold the fabric so that right
sides are outermost, and the below-
gauge-size front needle is in front of the
needle you have been working from.
vi. Joining row (RS): Using the below-
15
gauge-size free needle tip from the
13 front needle, work across the stitches as
follows: P1 from back needle, *k2 from
front needle, p2 from back needle*, rep
10 from * to * to last 3 sts, k2 from front
needle, p1 from back needle. 44 sts.
Join for working in the round, and p1, before

placing marker for start of round. Set aside the
5 gauge-size needle.
Round 1: *K2, p2*, rep from * to * around.

1 Rep last round a further 18 times. 19 rounds of
14 10 5 1 2x2 rib worked.
2
hand
INSTRUCTIONS Change to gauge-size needles.

Increase sts as follows:
1
cuff Next round: [K3, m1, (k4, m1) twice] 4 times. 12
st inc; 56 sts.
Using MC, two sets of 40cm / 16in circular Join in CC. Work from stranded chart as follows,
needles (one set is gauge-size and one set is using your preferred method for stranded
below-gauge-size), and using tubular cast on for colourwork:
2x2 rib (or long-tail cast on if preferred), cast on Round 1: Reading chart from right to left, (work
44 sts as follows: 14 sts from stranded chart row 1) 4 times.
i. Hold both sets of circular needles parallel Last round sets chart pattern. Changing shades
in your left hand, with the below-gauge- as indicated, work from stranded chart until row
size needles in front. Place a slip knot on 12 is complete.
the below-gauge-size front needle. Take
yarn under the back needle then up and Insert thumb placeholder as follows:
over both pairs of needles towards you. Round 13: Using waste yarn, k8, slip 8 sts just
32
PAWKIES: stranded
worked back to lh needle, then work from row 13

of stranded chart as set to end of round.
You now have 8 sts of waste yarn in your fabric.
After completion of the mitten, you will return
to these sts, unpick the waste yarn and work an
‘afterthought’ thumb.
Rounds 14-28: Continue to work from stranded

chart as set.
Decrease sts as follows:

Next round: Using MC, [k2, k2tog, (k3, k2tog)
twice] 4 times. 12 sts dec; 44 sts remain.
Change to below-gauge-size needles.

Rep last round a further 7 times. 8 rounds of 2x2
rib worked.
Bind off all sts.
3
thumb
Using below-gauge-size needles, pick up the

right leg (or side) of the 8 main yarn sts under
the row of waste yarn sts. Turn the mitten and
pick up 8 main yarn sts above the waste yarn
in the same way. You now have 16 sts on your
needles. Carefully remove the waste yarn,
ensuring all sts are safely on your needles.
Begin working in the round as follows:

Round 1: Join MC to bottom sts, k8, puk 2 sts in
gap, k8 across top sts, puk 2 sts in gap, pm for
start of round. 20 sts.
rib worked.
Bind off all sts.
4
second pawkie
Make a second Pawkie in the same way.
5
finishing
Weave in all ends. Neaten up thumb joins if

necessary. Soak Pawkies in cool water and wool
wash for 20-30 minutes. Dry between towels,
shape and block over mitten blockers, or dry flat.
Leave to dry completely.
Enjoy your Stranded Pawkies!
33
PAWKIES: striped
YARN GAUGE
Buachaille (100% Scottish Wool; 110m / 120yds per 50g skein) Small size
MC: Squall 1 x 50g skein 26 sts and 29 rounds to 10cm / 4in over striped stockinette
CC: Ptarmigan 1 x 50g skein stitch using gauge-size needles. This was achieved using
Large size used 35g / 77m / 84yds of MC and 12g / 26m / 3.5mm / UK 10-9 / US 4 needles.
29yds of CC. 27 rounds to 10cm / 4in over 2x2 rib using below-gauge-size
needles.
SIZES
Small (Large) Large size
To fit hand circumference: 17.5-20 (20-23) cm / 7-8 (8-9) in 23 sts and 26 rounds to 10cm / 4in over striped stockinette
Striped mitten outer circumference: 19 (21) cm / 7½ (8¼) in stitch using gauge-size needles. This was achieved using
The interior circumferences of the striped and stranded mittens 3.75mm / UK 9 / US 5 needles.
are comparable (because of the extra layer of fabric created 24 rounds to 10cm / 4in over 2x2 rib using below-gauge-size
by the stranded colourwork, their interior circumference is needles.
reduced)
Mitten length: 20.5 (23) cm / 8¼ (9) in You may need different sized needles to match gauge in both
stitch patterns.
NEEDLES AND NOTIONS Please check your gauge carefully and adjust your needle
40cm / 16in gauge-size circular needles for tubular cast-on size accordingly.
40cm / 16in below-gauge-size circular needles for tubular cast-
on (below-gauge-size are 1 size smaller than the needles you SPECIAL TECHNIQUES
require to get the correct gauge) See page 78.
Gauge-size and below-gauge-size needles of your preferred
type for working small circumferences ABBREVIATIONS
Small quantity of smooth waste yarn See full list of abbreviations on inside back cover.
Stitch marker
Tapestry needle
35
PAWKIES: striped
2
INSTRUCTIONS hand
1
cuff Change to gauge-size needles.
Using MC, two sets of 40cm / 16in circular Next round: (K11, m1) 4 times. 4 sts inc; 48 sts.
needles (one set is gauge-size and one set is Join in CC.
below-gauge-size), and using tubular cast on for Rounds 1 & 2: Using CC, knit all sts.
2x2 rib (or long-tail cast on if preferred), cast on Rounds 3 & 4: Using MC, knit all sts.
44 sts as follows: Rep last 4 rounds twice more. 12 rounds in
i. Hold both sets of circular needles parallel striped stockinette st worked.
in your left hand, with the below-gauge-
size needles in front. Place a slip knot on Insert thumb placeholder as follows:
the below-gauge-size front needle. Take Round 13: Using waste yarn, k8, slip 8 sts just
yarn under the back needle then up and worked back to lh needle, then using CC knit all
over both pairs of needles towards you. sts as set.
ii. Continue to wrap the yarn around both You now have 8 sts of waste yarn in your fabric.
needles until you have 22 wraps (don’t After completion of the mitten, you will return
count the slip knot). to these sts, unpick the waste yarn and work an
iii. Holding the yarn at the back (under both ‘afterthought’ thumb.
needles), slip the wraps on the front
needle off the needle tip onto the cable Rounds 14-28: Continue to work in striped
part of the circular needle. Leave both stockinette st as set.
ends of this front needle dangling. This
front needle now acts as a stitch holder. Decrease sts as follows:
iv. Using the gauge-size needle, work 3 rows Next round: Using MC, k5, k2tog, (k10, k2tog) 3
in stockinette st across the 22 sts on the times, k5. 4 st dec; 44 sts remain.
a knit row. Now slide the sts from the Change to below-gauge-size needles.
front needle onto the needle tip so that Round 1: *K2, p2*, rep from * to * around.
both needle tips are pointing in the same Rep last round a further 7 times. 8 rounds of 2x2
direction, next to the working yarn. rib worked.
v. Slide the slip knot off the end of the front
needle tip. Fold the fabric so that right Bind off all sts.
sides are outermost, and the below-
3
gauge-size front needle is in front of the thumb
needle you have been working from.
vi. Joining row (RS): Using the below- Using below-gauge-size needles, pick up the
gauge-size free needle tip from the right leg (or side) of the 8 main yarn sts under
front needle, work across the stitches as the row of waste yarn sts. Turn the mitten and
follows: P1 from back needle, *k2 from pick up 8 main yarn sts above the waste yarn
front needle, p2 from back needle*, rep in the same way. You now have 16 sts on your
from * to * to last 3 sts, k2 from front needles. Carefully remove the waste yarn,
needle, p1 from back needle. 44 sts. ensuring all sts are safely on your needles.
Join for working in the round, and p1, before Begin working in the round as follows:
placing marker for start of round. Set aside the Round 1: Join MC to bottom sts, k8, puk 2 sts in
gauge-size needle. gap, k8 across top sts, puk 2 sts in gap, pm for
start of round. 20 sts.
Round 1: *K2, p2*, rep from * to * around. Round 2: *K2, p2*, rep from * to * around.
Rep last round a further 18 times. 19 rounds of Rep last round a further 7 times. 8 rounds of 2x2
2x2 rib worked. rib worked.
Bind off all sts.
36
PAWKIES: striped
4 5
second pawkie finishing
Make a second Pawkie in the same way. Weave in all ends. Neaten up thumb joins if
necessary. Soak pawkies in cool water and wool
wash for 20-30 minutes. Dry between towels,
shape and block over mitten blockers, or dry flat.
Leave to dry completely.
Enjoy your Striped Pawkies!
37
BUNNET: stranded
Bunnet is a colloquial Scots term for a hat. The word bunnet

is etymologically related to the English bonnet, and the
French bonnet, but while the English term has predominantly
feminine associations, the word bunnet is most often used in
Scotland in reference to the headgear of an ordinary working
man. This bunnet is intended as ordinary, workaday headgear
– a simple hat to make and wear – but its five-pointed
crown makes it stand out from the crowd. Choose between a
stranded and striped version, and two different fits – a closer
beanie and a looser slouch.
39
BUNNET: stranded
YARN
Buachaille (100% Scottish Wool; 110m / 120yds per 50g
skein)
MC: Islay 1 x 50g skein
CC: Highland Coo 1 x 50g skein
Beanie version (photographed) uses 42g / 92m / 101yds of
MC and 8g / 18m / 19yds of CC.
Slouch version uses 46g / 101m / 110yds of MC and 9g /
20m / 22yds of CC.
SIZE
Beanie
Hat circumference: 47cm / 18½in
Length from brim to crown: 20.5cm / 8in
Slouch
Hat circumference: 53cm / 20¾in
Length from brim to crown: 21cm / 8¼in
NEEDLES AND NOTIONS

40cm / 16in gauge-size circular needles
40cm / 16in below-gauge-size circular needles (these are 1
size smaller than the needles you require to get the correct
gauge)
Gauge-size dpns (for working crown)
KEY Stitch marker
Tapestry needle
Using MC (Islay); knit
GAUGE
Using CC (Highland Coo); knit Beanie
Using shade indicated; cdd 26 sts and 29 rounds to 10cm / 4in over both plain and
(slip 2 stitches together as if to knit, stranded stockinette stitch in the round using gauge-size
needles. This was achieved using 3.5 mm / UK 10-9 / US 4
k1, pass 2 slipped stitches over)
needles.
Slouch
STRANDED BUNNET CHART 23 sts and 26 rounds to 10cm / 4in over both plain and
17 stranded stockinette stitch in the round using gauge-size
needles. This was achieved using 3.75mm / UK 9 / US 5
15 needles.
You may need different sized needles to match gauge in both

stitch patterns.
10 Please check your gauge carefully and adjust your needle
size accordingly.
SPECIAL TECHNIQUES
See page 78.
5
ABBREVIATIONS
1
24 20 15 10 5 1
40
BUNNET: stranded
INSTRUCTIONS
1
brim
Using MC, 40cm / 16in below-gauge-size circular

needle and long-tail cast-on method, cast on 104
sts, pm, and join for working in the round.
Using MC, knit 1 round, and then purl 1 round.
Join in CC.
Next round: *K2CC, p2MC*, rep from * to *
around.
corrugated rib worked.
2
body
Change to gauge-size needle and break off CC.

Using MC, increase sts as follows:
Next round: K7, m1, (k6, m1) 15 times, k7. 16 sts
inc; 120 sts.
Continue with MC in stockinette st (knitting
every round) until hat measures 14cm / 5½in
from cast-on edge.
3
crown
Join in CC. Change to dpns when required.

Work from stranded chart as follows, using your
preferred method for stranded colourwork:
24 sts from stranded chart row 1) 5 times.
Last round sets chart pattern. Changing shades
and decreasing where indicated, work from
stranded chart until row 17 is complete. 10 sts
remain.
Round 18: Using CC, k2tog around. 5 sts remain.

Break yarn, draw up through remaining sts and
fasten to inside of crown.
4
finishing
Soak Bunnet in cool water and wool wash for 20-

30 minutes. Dry between towels and ease into
shape over hat block, balloon or using plastic
bags, paying particular attention to crown. Leave
to dry completely.
Enjoy your Stranded Bunnet!
41
BUNNET: striped
This striped version of the Bunnet pattern is shown here in

shades Haar and Yaffle. The surprisingly dramatic crown is
simplicity itself to knit
43
BUNNET: striped
YARN INSTRUCTIONS
Buachaille (100% Scottish Wool; 110m / 120yds per 50g
1
skein) brim
MC: Haar 1 x 50g skein
CC: Yaffle 1 x 50g skein Using MC, two sets of 40cm / 16in circular
Beanie version uses 41 / 90m / 98yds of MC and 8g / 18m / needles (one set is gauge-size and one set is
19yds of CC. below-gauge-size), and using tubular cast on for
Slouch version (photographed) uses 45g / 99m / 108yds of 2x2 rib (or long-tail cast on if preferred), cast on
MC and 9g / 20m / 22yds of CC. 104 sts as follows:
i. Hold both sets of circular needles parallel
SIZE in your left hand, with the below-gauge-
Beanie size needles in front. Place a slip knot on
Hat circumference: 47cm / 18½in the below-gauge-size front needle. Take
Length from brim to crown: 20.5cm / 8in yarn under the back needle then up and
over both pairs of needles towards you.
Slouch ii. Continue to wrap the yarn around both
Hat circumference: 53cm / 20¾in needles until you have 52 wraps (don’t
Length from brim to crown: 21cm / 8¼in count the slip knot).
NEEDLES AND NOTIONS needles), slip the wraps on the front
40cm / 16in gauge-size circular needles needle off the needle tip onto the cable
40cm / 16in below-gauge-size circular needles (these are 1 part of the circular needle. Leave both
size smaller than the needles you require to get the correct ends of this front needle dangling. This
gauge) front needle now acts as a stitch holder.
Gauge-size dpns (for working crown) iv. Using the gauge-size needle, work 3 rows
Stitch marker; Tapestry needle in stockinette st across the 52 sts on the
GAUGE a knit row. Now slide the sts from the
Beanie front needle onto the needle tip so that
26 sts and 29 rounds to 10cm / 4in over both plain and both needle tips are pointing in the same
striped stockinette stitch in the round using gauge-size direction, next to the working yarn.
needles. This was achieved using 3.5mm / UK 10-9 / US 4 v. Slide the slip knot off the end of the front
needles. needle tip. Fold the fabric so that right
Slouch sides are outermost, and the below-
23 sts and 26 rounds to 10cm / 4in over both plain and gauge-size front needle is in front of the
striped stockinette stitch in the round using gauge-size needle you have been working from.
needles. This was achieved using 3.75mm / UK 9 / US 5 vi. Joining row (RS): Using the below-
needles. gauge-size free needle tip from the
front needle, work across the stitches as
You may need different sized needles to match gauge in follows: P1 from back needle, *k2 from
both stitch patterns. front needle, p2 from back needle*, rep
Please check your gauge carefully and adjust your needle from * to * to last 3 sts, k2 from front
size accordingly. needle, p1 from back needle. 104 sts.
SPECIAL TECHNIQUES Join for working in the round, and p1, before
See page 78. placing marker for start of round. Set aside the
gauge-size needle.
ABBREVIATIONS
See full list of abbreviations on inside back cover. Round 1: *K2, p2*, rep from * to * around.
Rep last round a further 9 times. 10 rounds of
2x2 rib worked.
44
2
body
Change to gauge-size needle.

Next round: K7, m1, (k6, m1) 15 times, k7. 16 sts KEY
inc; 120 sts.
Continue with MC in stockinette st (knitting Using MC (Haar); knit
every round) until hat measures 14cm / 5½in Using CC (Yaffle); knit
from cast-on edge.
Using shade indicated; cdd
3
crown (slip 2 stitches together as if to knit,
k1, pass 2 slipped stitches over)
Join in CC. Change to dpns when required.
24 sts from striped chart row 1) 5 times.
Last round sets chart pattern. Changing shades STRANDED BUNNET CHART
and decreasing where indicated, work from
striped chart until row 17 is complete. 10 sts 17
remain.
15
Round 18: Using CC, k2tog around. 5 sts remain.
Break yarn, draw up through remaining sts and
fasten to inside of crown.
10
4
finishing
Soak Bunnet in cool water and wool wash for 20-

30 minutes. Dry between towels and ease into
shape over hat block, balloon or using plastic 5
bags, paying particular attention to crown. Leave
to dry completely.
1
Enjoy your Striped Bunnet! 24 20 15 10 5 1
45
WHIGMALEERIES
In Scots, a whigmaleerie is: “a decorative or fanciful object,

a piece of ornamentation …a knick-knack, gew-gaw,
bauble, fantastic contrivance, or contraption.”
(Dictionary of the Scots Language, 2004).
In other words, a whigmaleerie is a wee thingumajig,

of the kind folk often like to hang on trees at this festive
time of year. Why not whip up several Whigmaleeries to
decorate your tree?
YARN GAUGE
Stranded Whigmaleerie 26 sts and 29 rounds to 10cm / 4in over plain, striped and
Buachaille (100% Scottish Wool; 110m / 120yds per 50g skein) colourwork stockinette stitch using gauge-sized needles.
MC: Highland Coo 1 x 50g skein This was achieved using size 3.5mm (UK 10-9 / US 4) needles.
CC: Ptarmigan 1 x 50g skein
Sample used 8g / 18m / 19yds of each shade Gauge is not desperately important for this project – tighter
and looser gauges will make smaller and larger Whigmaleeries,
Striped Whigmaleerie but bear in mind that the fabric needs to be dense enough to
Buachaille (100% Scottish Wool; 110m / 120yds per 50g skein) prevent the stuffing from poking through the stitches.
MC: Yaffle 1 x 50g skein
CC: Highland Coo 1 x 50g skein SPECIAL TECHNIQUES
Sample used 10g / 22m / 24yds of MC and 5g / 11m / 12yds See page 78.
of CC.
ABBREVIATIONS
SIZE See full list of abbreviations on inside back cover.
Length: 13.5cm / 5½in (not including i-cord loop)
Circumference: 22cm / 8½in
NEEDLES AND NOTIONS

Gauge-size needle(s) of your preferred type for working small
circumferences
Small quantity of wool fibre with which to stuff your
Whigmaleerie (we used Shetland tops from Jamieson & Smith)
47
WHIGMALEERIE: stranded
STRANDED WHIGMALEERIE
INSTRUCTIONS
1
whigmaleerie body
Using gauge-size needles and MC, cast on 12 sts.

Pm and join for working in the round.
Join in CC.
Round 1: Reading stranded chart from right to
left, (work 3 sts from chart row 1) 4 times.
Last round sets stranded chart pattern. Changing
shades and working increases as indicated, work
from stranded chart until row 11 is complete. 44
KEY
sts inc; 56 sts.
Continue to work from the stranded chart, Using MC (Highland Coo); knit
changing shades and decreasing as indicated Using CC (Ptarmigan); knit
until row 37 is complete. 48 sts dec; 8 sts remain.
Break off MC. Using shade indicated; m1
Using shade indicated; cdd
Weave in ends. Stuff fibre through the gap at the (slip 2 stitches together as if to knit,
top of Whigmaleerie, until it is quite full. k1, pass 2 slipped stitches over)
CHART
Next round: Using CC, k2tog around. 4 sts dec;
4 sts remain. 37
Next round: K2tog, k2. 3 sts remain.
35
Keep these sts live on needle.
2
stuffing and finishing
30
Neaten up bottom join of Whigmaleerie with a
length of MC if necessary, ensuring the bottom is
closed and secure.
Steam Whigmaleerie with iron on wool setting to 25
allow the sts to relax and bloom a little.
Return to 3 live sts at top of Whigmaleerie and,
with CC, work i-cord as follows:
Knit 3 sts. *Slip these sts to other end of needle 20
(if using DPNs) or return them to lh needle if
using a circular or straight needle. Pull working
yarn firmly across back and knit these 3 sts
again*. Rep from * to * until your i-cord measures 15
10cm / 4in.
Break yarn, pull through remaining 3 sts. Bend
the i-cord into a loop, sew the end down, and
fasten off to inside. 10
Enjoy your Stranded Whigmaleerie!
48
WHIGMALEERIE: striped
Round 29: Knit.

Round 30: K4, *cdd, k9*, rep from * to * to last 8
sts, cdd, k5. 8 sts dec; 40 sts remain.
Round 31: Knit.
Round 33: Knit.
Round 35: Knit.
Round 37: *Cdd, k1*, rep from * to * around.
8 sts dec; 8 sts remain.
Weave in any ends. Stuff fibre through the gap at

STRIPED WHIGMALEERIE the top of Whigmaleerie, until it is quite full.
Round 38: Using MC, k2tog around. 4 sts dec;

INSTRUCTIONS 4 sts remain.
Round 39: K2tog, k2. 3 sts remain.
1
whigmaleerie body Keep these sts live on needle.
2
Using gauge-size needles and MC, cast on 12 stuffing and finishing
sts. Pm and join for working in the round.
Round 1: Knit. Neaten up bottom join of Whigmaleerie with a
Round 2: K1, *m1, k3*, rep from * to * to last 2 length of MC if necessary, ensuring the bottom is
sts, m1, k2. 4 sts inc; 16 sts. closed and secure.
Round 3: K1, *m1, k1, m1, k3*, rep from * to * Steam Whigmaleerie with iron on wool setting to
to last 3 sts, m1, k1, m1, k2. 8 sts inc; 24 sts. allow the sts to relax and bloom a little.
Round 4: Knit. Return to 3 live sts at top of Whigmaleerie and,
Round 5: K2, *m1, k1, m1, k5*, rep from * to * with MC, work i-cord as follows:
to last 4 sts, m1, k1, m1, k3. 8 sts inc; 32 sts. Knit 3 sts. *Slip these sts to other end of needle
Round 6: Knit. (if using DPNs) or return them to lh needle if
Round 7: K3, *m1, k1, m1, k7*, rep from * to * using a circular or straight needle. Pull working
to last 5 sts, m1, k1, m1, k4. 8 sts inc; 40 sts. yarn firmly across back and knit these 3 sts
Round 8: Knit. again*. Rep from * to * until your i-cord measures
Round 9: K4, *m1, k1, m1, k9*, rep from * to * 10cm / 4in.
to last 6 sts, m1, k1, m1, k5. 8 sts inc; 48 sts. Break yarn, pull through remaining 3 sts. Bend
Round 10: Knit. the i-cord into a loop, sew the end down, and
Round 11: K5, *m1, k1, m1, k11*, rep from * to fasten off to inside.
* to last 7 sts, m1, k1, m1, k6. 8 sts inc; 56 sts.
Round 12: Knit. Enjoy your Striped Whigmaleerie!
Join in CC.
Rounds 13 & 14: Using CC, knit.
Rounds 15 & 16: Using MC, knit.
Rounds 17-24: Rep last 4 rounds twice more.
Rounds 25 & 26: Rep rounds 13 & 14.
Break off CC, leaving a tail to weave in. Now use
MC only to end.
Round 27: Knit.
Round 28: K5, *cdd, k11*, rep from * to * to last
9 sts, cdd, k6. 8 sts dec; 48 sts remain.
49
OOBIT
Oobit is a wonderful Scots word meaning “big, hairy
caterpillar” – a creature which this felted bracelet
somewhat resembles. “Oo” is also the Shetland term for
wool, and the bracelet is designed to make use of bits of
oo …an oo-bit! Oobit also recalls orbit, suggesting
something circular or revolving – so all told Oobit is
the perfect name for this accessory! I have to thank my
friend Ivor – whose knowledge of Scots is vast – for the
suggestion.
YARN
Approximately 15g / 33m / 36yds of yarn of any shade. See
step 1 below for more information on planning your stripe
pattern.
SIZE
Post-felting (measurements will vary depending on how
vigorously you felt your Oobit)
Approximate width: 4.5-5cm / 1¾-2in
Approximate outer circumference: 27.5-30cm / 10¾-11¾in
NEEDLES AND NOTIONS

Two sets of 40cm / 16in long 5.5mm / UK 5 / US 9 circular
needles
GAUGE
…is unimportant, but you will need to work each Oobit on
a needle 5.5mm / UK 5 / US 9 or larger in order to create a
nice open fabric – the gaps between the stitches help with the
felting.
SPECIAL TECHNIQUES
See page 78.
ABBREVIATIONS
51
2
INSTRUCTIONS cast on
1
choose stripe pattern With two sets of 40cm / 16in long 5.5mm
circular needles, using the provisional winding
Depending on your choice of shades, and how cast-on method, cast on 22 sts as follows:
much yarn you have available, there are many i. Hold both sets of circular needles parallel
possible stripe patterns for your Oobit. Here are in your left hand. Place a slip knot on the
some ideas: needle closest to you. Take yarn under the
• 3 x 4 round stripes in each of 5 shades back needle then up and over both pairs
of Buachaille (needs approximately 3g of of needles towards you.
each shade) ii. Continue to wrap the yarn around both
• 2 x 15 round stripes in each of 2 shades of needles until you have 22 wraps (don’t
Buachaille (needs approximately 7.5g of count the slip knot).
each shade) iii. Holding the yarn at the back (under both
• 15 x 2 round stripes in each of 2 shades of needles), slip the wraps on the front
Buachaille (needs approximately 7.5g of needle off the needle tip onto the cable
each shade) part of the circular needle. Leave both
• 6 x 8 round stripes and 6 x 2 round ends of this front needle dangling. This
stripes in 2 shades of Buachaille (needs front needle now acts as a stitch holder (if
approximately 12g for larger stripes and you prefer you could slip the sts to waste
3g for narrower stripes) yarn or a holder). When you come to use
For any combination, each row or round uses these sts, you can undo the slip knot and
approximately 0.25g of yarn. use the end of yarn for weaving in.
You are now ready to knit back and forth

(move to step 3a) or to join in the round (move
to step 3b).
52
OOBIT
3a
flat version v Insert tapestry needle purlwise into first st
on back needle, slipping st off needle.
Using the back set of needles and changing vi. Insert tapestry needle knitwise into next st
shades following your stripe plan, work in on back needle. Pull yarn through.
stockinette st (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) for 60 Repeat steps iii-vi until all stitches have been
rows or until piece from cast-on edge measures grafted, ending with step iii then step v only.
30.5cm / 12in.
Weave in final ends and trim before felting. Move
Holding WS outermost, work a 3-needle bind off to step 4.
across all sts as follows:
4
Slip 22 sts from cast-on edge back on to needle felting
tip (removing slip knot). Hold 22 sts just worked
parallel with cast-on sts, in lh. Use one of the Add some liquid soap to a bowl of hand-hot
free needle tips to knit together the first st from water and soak Oobit for 5 minutes.
front and rear needles. 1 st on rh needle. *Knit Remove Oobit, and rub vigorously between your
together the first st from front and rear needles. hands. You’ll need to do this for 15-20 minutes,
2 sts on rh needle. Bind off 1 st by lifting the first continually moving and agitating the fabric, and
over the second st on the rh needle*. Rep from * adding more soap and water as necessary.
to * until all sts are bound off. Pull yarn through Continue until you no longer see any individual
remaining st on rh needle. knitted stitches, the fabric starts to stiffen,
and the surface of the Oobit takes on a fluffy
Weave in all ends. appearance.
Squeeze Oobit between towels, and begin to
Turn to RS, and from RS loosely join both long mould and turn it in your hands into a bangle /
sides together with mattress st to create a seam bracelet shape.
(don’t worry about being neat – the seam will Keep on moulding and turning until you are
felt in later). Weave in final ends and trim before satisfied with the shape of your Oobit.
felting. Move to step 4. Leave on a flat surface in a warm place and allow
to dry completely.
3b
in the round version Make more Oobits if desired.
Pm, and join to work in the round. Using Enjoy your Oobits!
the back set of needles and changing shades
following your stripe plan, work in stockinette
st (knit every round) for 60 rounds or until piece
from cast-on edge measures 30.5cm / 12in.
Weave in all ends.
Slip sts from cast-on edge back on to needle tip

(removing slip knot). With RS outermost, hold 22
sts just worked parallel with cast-on sts, graft sts
together using Kitchener stitch as follows:
First, thread a tapestry needle with 30.5cm / 12in
length of working yarn.
i. Insert tapestry needle purlwise into first st
on front needle. Pull yarn through.
ii. Insert tapestry needle knitwise into the
first st on back needle. Pull yarn through.
iii. Insert tapestry needle knitwise into first st
on front needle, slipping st off needle.
iv. Insert tapestry needle purlwise into next
st on front needle. Pull yarn through.
53
CAIRNGORM
Strictly speaking, a cairngorm is a piece of smoky quartz

from the famous mountain region that forms Britain’s
largest national park. More generally in Scotland though,
“cairngorm” is a word that refers to any large jewelled
brooch serving as a fastening for a plaid, maud or great
kilt. Much beloved of the Victorians, cairngorm brooches
usually featured large semi-precious stones – garnets and
citrines as well as quartz – in a silver setting that was often
richly decorated. My woolly cairngorm, made up from
odds and ends of yarn, recalls its jewelled namesakes in its
large size and colourful appearance. The brooch is made
by weaving lengths of wool in simple concentric circles,
using a method that was popularly used to create small
buttons during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. If
you are lucky enough to possess a button three inches or
more in diameter this will work to stabilise the brooch, and
if not, you will need to cut a disc from a piece of plastic
(such as an empty ice cream tub or similar). I’m wearing
my cairngorm with a plaid, but it would look equally
jolly and decorative on the lapel of a tweed jacket or
contemporary winter coat.
YARN
Small quantities of Buachaille in a few different shades, or a
single shade if preferred.
Shown here in shades Highland Coo, Squall, and Haar.
Cairngorm will use no more than 8-10g / 18-22m / 19-24yds of
yarn in total.
SIZE
Finished diameter: 9cm / 3½in
NOTIONS
Card
Light plastic (which you can cut neatly into a circle with a pair
of strong scissors)
Tapestry needle
Kilt pin, or large safety pin
55
CAIRNGORM
STEP 1 STEP 2 STEP 3

Cut a circle with an 11cm / 4¼in Take your yarn, cut off a 1.8m / 2yd Continue securing the yarn into the
diameter from a piece of card. length, thread your needle, and draw notches by drawing it alternately across
Cut a circle with an 8cm / 3¼in up from the back through the centre the back circumference, and the front
diameter from a piece of light plastic. of the disc, leaving a short tail around diameter, in the following sequence:
Take the card disc, measure and mark 2.5cm / 1in long.
the centre point with a ruler, and, with wrap notches in this sequence:
a sharp needle, poke a hole through this Create the spokes 6  7
point. Draw the yarn across the front of the 7  1
Mark numbers 1-12, around the edges disc up to notch 1. 1  2
of your disc, as if drawing a clock face. Draw the yarn across the back 2  8
With a pair of sharp scissors, cut shallow circumference of the disc to notch 12, 8  9
notches at each of the points 1-12 secure it in the notch, then draw the 9  3
(notches should be no deeper than yarn across the front diameter of the 3  4
1cm/¼in) circle to notch 6. 4  10
10  11
11  5
5  6
6  12
12  11
11  5
5  4
4  10
10  9
9  3
STEP 4 STEP 5 3  2
Bring your needle up between spokes Continue weaving in this manner, 2  8
12 and 1 as close to the centre as working anti-clockwise, and drawing 8  7
possible. the yarn backward over 1 and forward You have now created 12 front spokes,
Then take your needle backwards over under 2 spokes around the disc. This and 12 back loops.
spoke 1, turn forwards and travel under process wraps and defines the spokes, Draw the yarn from notch 7 back to the
spokes 1 and 12. creating the ridged surface of the centre, and secure it around the centre
Now take your needle backwards over Cairngorm covering. of the spokes. You are now ready to
spoke 12, turn forwards and travel begin weaving.
under spokes 12 and 11.
56
CAIRNGORM
STEP 6 You can change shades if you wish STEP 8

It’s important to weave quite tightly and when you run out of yarn, or continue Continue around the disc, lifting
neatly, ensuring each new concentric with the same shade as you prefer. each loop off in turn, taking care not
circle of yarn sits as closely as possible to let your yarn draw up too tightly.
STEP 7
to its neighbour. When your yarn length Ensure your yarn length is sufficient to
When you reach the edge of the disc,
runs out, simply secure the old thread complete this task with a minimum of
and are unable to continue weaving,
under the spokes, cut a new length, 30cm / 12in of yarn remaining.
turn it to the back, pass the needle
draw it up through the hole at the
under the loop between each notch,
centre of the circle and begin weaving
and lift it off the disc.
where you left off.
STEP 9 STEP 10 Thread your kilt pin under the stitches

Carefully remove the woven Cairngorm Turn to the front and adjust the on the reverse so that the pin fastening
from the cardboard disc, taking care not covering so that it sits centrally and is outermost.
to draw in the loops from the side. Trim neatly over the plastic disc.
back the ends of yarn that remain at the Make several stitches across the back to Fasten your Cairngorm to your plaid
centre of the woven Cairngorm. secure the covering to the reverse. The and away you go!
Turn the woven Cairngorm over so that purpose of these stitches is to ensure
the wrong side is uppermost, taking care the woven covering sits tightly across Enjoy your Cairngorm!
not to draw in the loops from the side. the front of the Cairngorm – they don’t
Take your plastic disc, and place it have to be neat, but they do have to be
centrally on top of the Cairngorm. secure!
Carefully pull the yarn length, drawing
in the outer edges of the Cairngorm to
cover the back of the plastic disc.
57
58
BUACHAILLE
Tom’s Recipes
59
The Holy Fair (In English)
Here farmers gash, in ridin’ graith Here farmers blithe in riding gear
Gaed hoddin by their cottars; Go trotting by their cotters
There swankies young, in braw braid-claith, There strapping youths in fine broad cloth
Are springin’ o’er the gutters, Are springing o’er the ditches
The lasses, skelpin barefit, thrang, The lasses, tripping barefoot, throng
In silks an’ scarlets glitter; In silks and scarlets glitter
Wi’ sweet-milk cheese, in mony a whang, With sweet-milk cheese, in many a slice
An’ farls, bak’d wi’ butter, And farls baked with butter
Fu’ crump that day. Full crisp that day.
Robert Burns (1785)
HOLY FAIR FARLS
Soda farls are an easy-to-make, traditional Scottish bread made
from oatmeal and wheat flour. The name farl derives from the
Scots word fardel, or quarter. In the past, farls were a familiar
kind of Scottish street food, receiving notable mention among the
colourful detail of Robert Burns’ poem, The Holy Fair.
Fresh from the hot griddle, these delicious farls are best served with
a generous slice of cold butter and a good raspberry jam.
Makes 8 farls 1. Sieve the flour into a large mixing bowl and add the oatmeal,
bicarbonate of soda and salt, mixing thoroughly.
INGREDIENTS
400g / 14oz strong white bread flour 2. Add the buttermilk gradually, bringing the dough together. Add
50g / 2oz oatmeal (coarse) enough warm water, a tablespoon at a time, to form a soft, but
1 level teaspoon bicarbonate of soda not sticky, pliant dough.
1 level teaspoon sea salt
3. Turn out the dough onto a lightly-floured work surface and give a
284g / 10oz buttermilk
short, gentle knead.
2 to 4 tablespoons warm water
4. Divide the dough into two equal balls.
EQUIPMENT
Griddle or heavy-based pan 5. Roll out each ball into a neat round, approximately 25cm / 10in in
diameter and cut into quarters (or farls).
6. Pre-heat the griddle, or heavy-based pan, on a high heat. To
check the temperature dust the pan with flour, when the flour
turns nut-brown and the kitchen fills with a delicious toasty
aroma your pan is ready. Brush the flour from the pan, turn the
heat to medium/low.
7. Place the farls onto the dry, hot griddle and leave to bake for
4-5mins, until they have a golden brown colour with dark brown
patches.
8. Flip the farls over and cook for a further 10-12mins on the other
side. The farls will rise into plump, triangular cakes.
9. Test the bread by pressing gently in the middle. They should feel
firm. If they feel squashy, flip over and continue to bake until the
raw dough in the middle is cooked through and the farl feels firm.
10. Eat crisp and warm straight from the griddle, or cool on a rack
covered with a damp tea towel to keep the bread soft.
61
SEED & HERB
OATCAKES
Oatmeal is a staple ingredient in traditional Scottish cuisine and
differs from rolled oats or oat-flakes in that it is ground using
grooved rollers to produce a range of sizes or grades. Fine or
medium grade oatmeal both produce excellent oatcakes. Providing
the mill producing it doesn’t also make wheat flour, oatmeal is
gluten-free, making it ideal for those with wheat intolerances.
These simple oatcakes are tasty and versatile.
I think that they are at their very best served with a fresh cheese,
like the gruth dhu (black crowdie) recipe in this book.
Makes 30 small oatcakes 1. Lightly grease two baking trays and pre-heat the oven to 180°C /
160°C fan / 350°F / gas mark 4.
INGREDIENTS
3 level tablespoons mixed seeds (sunflower, pumpkin 2. Toast the mixed seeds in a hot, dry, heavy-based pan for 2-3mins
and sesame) until lightly browned and the sesame seeds start to pop. Remove
1 level teaspoon finely-chopped fresh thyme leaves the seeds from the pan and leave to cool, then roughly chop.
1 level teaspoon finely-chopped fresh rosemary leaves
3. Finely chop the herbs.
240g / 9oz oatmeal (fine or medium)
¼ level teaspoon bicarbonate of soda 4. Put the seeds, herbs, oatmeal, bicarbonate of soda and salt in a
1 level teaspoon sea salt large bowl and mix, making a well in the middle.
25g / 1oz unsalted butter 5. Melt the butter, pour into the well and thoroughly mix.
3 to 5 tablespoons warm water
6. Add sufficient warm water, one tablespoon at a time, to form a
rough dough. Bring the dough together with your hands and
turn out onto a work surface. The surface can be floured if it
helps you work the sticky dough, but isn’t necessary (and should
be omitted for a wheat-free recipe).
7. Gently knead the dough and roll out to thickness of 0.5cm / ¼in.
8. Cut into rounds using a 5cm / 2in ring cutter and transfer the
rounds to the prepared baking trays. Do this very gently as the
oatcakes are fragile.
9. Bake for 15-20mins until golden brown and fragrant.
10. Cool on the baking trays for 5-10mins before transferring to
a cooling rack using a palette knife or fish slice. Leave to cool
completely before serving.
63
CROWDIE
Crowdie is a traditional Scottish cheese which is 1. Add the citric acid to 50ml / 2fl oz of the cooled boiled water and
made by curdling cow’s milk. It has a delicious mix thoroughly until dissolved. Set aside for later use.
fresh and mild taste, with a wonderful soft and 2. Add the ¼ rennet tablet to 50ml / 2fl oz of the cooled boiled
creamy texture. This is an easy cheese to make water and mix thoroughly until dissolved. Set aside for later use.
with everyday kitchen utensils and its versatility is 3. Pour the milk into a large, heavy pan and warm gently until it
put to good use in the two recipes presented here. reaches 32°C / 90°F.
In a savoury form, gruth dhu (or black crowdie), 4. Add the citric acid solution (or lemon juice) to the tepid milk and
this firm and crumbly cheese makes an ideal mix thoroughly with a slotted spoon, using a “back and forth”
companion to Seed & Herb Oatcakes. Crowdie’s motion (rather than swirling). The milk will begin to split into
smooth, mild freshness is also used to great effect semi-solid curds and liquid whey.
in my accompanying Cranachan recipe. 5. Place a lid on the pan and remove from the heat. Leave to stand
for 30mins.
6. Meanwhile, line a colander or sieve with the muslin.
Makes approximately 900g / 2lb
7. Add the rennet solution to the tepid milk and mix using a gentle
INGREDIENTS
“back and forth” motion.
100ml / 4fl oz boiled water, left to cool
1 level teaspoon citric acid (2-3 level teaspoons of 8. Return to the heat and raise the temperature to 41°C / 106°F. Hold
lemon juice can be used instead) at this temperature for 3mins. At the end of this process, large
¼ rennet tablet (calf or vegetarian) semi-solid curds will have formed, floating in the liquid whey.
4.5 litres / 8 pints / 9½ US pints whole milk
9. Gently ladle the curds to the muslin-lined colander, keeping the
Optional for gruth dhu solid curds as large and intact as possible. Then pour in the rest of
1 level teaspoon sea salt the curds and whey.
2 level tablespoons oatmeal (medium or coarse)
10. Proceed to step 11 for gruth dhu or step 15 for cranachan.
1 level teaspoon coarse ground black pepper
Gruth dhu
EQUIPMENT
11. Sprinkle 1 level teaspoon sea-salt over the curds and drain for
Butter muslin or cheesecloth
20mins without mixing.
Thermometer
12. Gently gather the cheese into a mound in the middle of the
muslin and fold over the muslin corners to cover.
13. Place a plate and heavy weight on top of the cheese and leave to
press for 1-2hrs until the cheese is firm.
14. Shape the pressed cheese into short logs, 10-15cm / 4-6in in
length. Sprinkle the coarse ground pepper and oatmeal onto a
work surface and roll each log in the mixture.
Cranachan
15. Drain the curds for 15-30mins for a smooth, creamy cheese.
16. Once drained, transfer the wet curds to a large bowl and beat the
curds with a hand whisk until smooth.
65
CRANACHAN
Cranachan is the famous dessert of cream, oatmeal and
raspberries eaten as a harvest celebration. In many modern recipes
I find the cream tends to overpower the fragrant raspberries, which
for me, should be the star of the show. By replacing much of the
whipped cream with Crowdie (see page 65), a fresher, milder
dessert results, in which the raspberry flavour really shines.
Your choice of whisky will have a big influence on the final dish
too; I suggest avoiding anything heavily peated, as the medicinal
notes and cream can sit somewhat uncomfortably together. With
its heather honeyed palate and the merest whiff of smoke, I would
recommend Highland Park as the ideal Scottish single malt whisky
for this recipe.
Serves 4-6 1. Lightly toast the oatmeal in a dry, hot heavy-based pan for
4-6mins over a medium-high heat. Toss frequently to avoid
INGREDIENTS
burning and stop when the oatmeal is brown and the kitchen is
80g / 3oz oatmeal (medium or coarse)
filled with the lovely toasted nutty aroma. Remove from the pan
300g / 11oz fresh raspberries
and set aside to cool.
150ml / 5fl oz double cream
2 tablespoons malt whisky 2. Crush 200g / 7oz of the raspberries in a bowl using a fork.
2 tablespoons heather honey Reserve the plumpest, juiciest looking berries to garnish the dish.
450g / 1lb mild and creamy crowdie (see page 65)
3. Whip the double cream until it forms soft peaks, then add the
EQUIPMENT whisky and honey. Continue to whisk until fully mixed.
Heavy-based pan
4. Gently fold the crowdie into the cream, whisky and honey
ensuring the crowdie keeps its structure.
5. In a large glass serving bowl, or individual dessert bowls, add
alternating layers of the creamy crowdie mixture, crushed
raspberries and toasted oatmeal, finishing with a final layer of the
creamy mix. Add the remaining raspberries to the top with a final
sprinkle of oatmeal.
6. Eat immediately, if you like the oatmeal to keep its bite, or chill
until ready for serving.
67
LAVENDER
SHORTBREAD
Scottish shortbread, in its tartan tins, is a popular and ubiquitous
souvenir. Though many bought shortbreads are indeed excellent,
nothing compares to a freshly baked batch of this humble biscuit.
This recipe makes a buttery and crumbly shortbread, which is
gently fragrant, yet deliciously moreish. Ideal as an after dinner
treat, I can think of no better accompaniment for this Lavender
Shortbread than the subtly floral and deeply smoky Ardbeg (a
single malt whisky, distilled on the Hebridean Isle of Islay).
Makes 20 biscuits 1. Put the caster sugar, soft butter and lavender into a large bowl
and cream together until smooth.
INGREDIENTS
100g / 3½oz caster sugar 2. Sieve the flour into the butter, sugar and lavender mixture and
175g / 6oz salted butter (at room temperature) mix thoroughly.
1 level tablespoon dried lavender flowers (or 2 level
3. Bring the mixture together with your hands and knead lightly on
tablespoons fresh flowers)
a floured work surface.
225g / 8oz plain flour
2 level tablespoons demerara sugar 4. Divide the mixture into two equal balls and form each ball into a
short log, about 15cm / 6in in length.
5. Sprinkle the demerara sugar onto a work surface and roll each
log in the sugar, to give an even coating on the outside.
6. Wrap each log in baking paper and place in the fridge for 1hr.
7. Lightly grease two baking trays and pre-heat the oven to 160°C /
140°C fan / 320°F / gas mark 3.
8. Remove the biscuit logs from the fridge and cut each into 10
equal rounds using a sharp knife.
9. Dock the shortbread by pricking each round with a fork to make
4 to 6 neat rows of indentations 2-3mm / 1 ⁄ 8 in deep.
10. Place the rounds onto the prepared baking trays, leaving room
for the biscuits to spread slightly.
11. Bake in the pre-heated oven for 14-18mins until the shortbread
rounds are a light golden colour.
12. Cool on the baking tray for 2-3mins before transferring to a
cooling rack using a palette knife or fish slice. Leave to cool
completely before serving.
69
70
BUACHAILLE
A Walk in the Highlands
71
Buachaille Etive Mòr
A spectacular walk around a West Highland landmark with mountain leader, Gordon Anderson.
O
ne of Scotland’s most famous and iconic mountains, stob dearg – the red peak
“The Buachaille”, as it is affectionately known, is Many of the Gaelic names of the features around and
a truly magnificent sight. Viewed from the road about the mountain (Eilde, Altruim, Broige) make explicit
to Glen Coe, its imposing wall of buttresses, crags reference to animals and hunting, while Stob Dearg evocatively
and gullies presents a dramatic and daunting appearance. suggests the pinkish appearance of the rhyolite of which
Though this gigantic pyramid of granite and rhyolite seems the mountain’s peak is composed, especially when seen in the
a peak only experienced climbers might attempt, the great light of a Highland dawn or dusk. (Rhyolite is chemically similar
gully of Coire na Tulaich allows competent hillwalkers to enjoy to granite, but is formed from erupted lava rather than magma
the challenge of this breathtaking mountain. Taking in two solidifying below ground). While on the subject of place names
Munros, the ascent is both thrilling and inspiring, and on a and meanings, a notable aside is that Glen Coe (which can
clear day the views from the summit ridge cannot be beaten. be viewed from the summit) does not mean vale of weeping
Buachaille Etive Mòr translates from Scottish Gaelic as Glen as often popularly assumed. The name derives from the
Etive’s mighty herdsman. Like other Highland place names, the nearby river Comhann, and predates the Campbells’ infamous
mountain’s nomenclature reflects the nature of the terrain in massacre of the MacDonalds by several centuries.
which it is situated, and the historical uses and significance of The landscape’s uses and inhabitants have changed radically
this landscape to the people who once lived here. over the years, and in place of the domestic cattle once farmed
73
A WALK IN THE HIGHLANDS
in the glen, you will now see many red deer. Deer are largely
responsible for the lack of trees in this area, yet the landscape
contains traces of earlier plant life, perhaps less immediately
visible to the eye.
On the walk out from Buachaille Etive Mòr, your path
crosses ancient peat bogs where the remains of perfectly
preserved trees often emerge as the peat erodes and subsides.
In the past, such “bog wood” provided an important resource
to the ordinary folk of Scotland: while wood from living trees
was deemed the property of the landowner, tenants were
permitted to use bog wood to make furniture and other
domestic items. Wildflower enthusiasts might be forgiven
for assuming that the mountain landscape contains little of
interest among the ubiquitous seas of bog grasses, bracken,
and heather, but like most areas of Scotland, Glens Etive and
Coe contain their own wee floral surprises. Look carefully,
and on the approach to the Buachaille in summer and early
autumn, you may be lucky enough to spot an unusual variant
of lousewort. This pretty wildflower is common across Scotland
and usually has pinkish-purple flowers, but here you may also
see it with distinctive white petals.
atop the summit

If the weather is clear, the summit ridge affords truly
breathtaking views of the landscape and geology of the
surrounding central Highlands. The vast expanse of Rannoch
Moor stretches away to the east with Schiehallion, the conical
fairy mount of the Caledonians, visible at its outer limits. During
the last glaciation, Rannoch Moor was the centre of the ice
sheet from which radiated the huge glaciers that formed glens
Coe and Etive. To the north are the Aonachs and the mighty
Nevis range, with the unmistakable hulk of Ben Nevis reaching
up toward the clouds.
The drama of the surrounding peaks perhaps seems to
dwarf humanity and its history, but below are several visible
landmarks that reveal the Highlands’ human presence. Directly
below, snaking up from Altnafeadh, is the notorious path
known as the Devil’s Staircase – once part of the military road
constructed by government generals in 1751 to link a chain
of Highland forts established in response to rebel Jacobite
uprisings. Today the Devil’s Staircase is far less bellicose in
function, being the highest point of the West Highland Way, a
route followed annually by over a quarter of a million walkers
from all over the world.
the cost of blackwater

A little further along the West Highland Way to the north,
you can see the Blackwater Reservoir, constructed to bring
hydroelectric power to an aluminium smelter in nearby
Kinlochleven. Built at an elevation of over a thousand feet,
the reservoir’s gigantic concrete dam bears witness to the
hard work of the more than three thousand “navvies” who
constructed it in the early 1900s. Many of these men joined
74
the Blackwater workforce from Ireland, enduring difficult
labouring conditions, poor pay, and brutal Highland winters
in rickety huts. Predictably, a large number lost their lives
during the reservoir’s construction, and their small graveyard
serves as a sobering reminder of the human cost of the great
engineering projects that brought hydroelectric power to the
Scottish Highlands.
safety
The route we’ve outlined here is challenging, but rewarding
and can be completed by all fit and experienced hill walkers.
Do not undertake the walk unless you have such experience,
or are being guided by someone who does. Take sensible
precautions to ensure your own safety: avoid heading out if
there is snow cover on the mountain, and be aware that late-
lying snow patches in Coire na Tulaich can form a significant
hazard. The walk will take 6-9 hours to complete, so make sure
you carry enough food and water, suitable outdoor clothing to
accommodate changeable Highland conditions, and of course
an accurate map.
For more detailed information see this useful page compiled
in association with the Mountaineering Council of Scotland.
www.walkhighlands.co.uk/safety/
maps
The route map here is included for your information only –
always carry an accurate map and compass; sat nav or GPS
devices are no substitute for navigational competence. There
are a number of excellent maps covering the Glen Coe and
Glen Etive areas.
We recommend any of the following:
• Ordnance Survey Landranger Map 41 – Ben Nevis, Fort
William and Glen Coe (1:50,000)
• Ordnance Survey Explorer Map 384 – Glen Coe and Glen Etive
(1:25,000)
• Harvey British Mountain Map XT40 Ben Nevis and Glen Coe
(1:40,000)
• Harvey Superwalker XT25 Glen Coe (1:25,000)
75
Altnafeadh
P
1
2
West Highland Way
Stob 3
a
Coire
ad
Raineach
Fh
ag
n
Be
e
in
ld
Be
e
Ei
iv
Et
g
iri
i lle
La
c ha
ua i n 10 5
B r ta
Ga
Stob Dearg
4
ri g
L ai
Stob
Dubh
òr
6
7 M
9 Stob i ve
Stob na Et
Coire ll e
Altruim
Doire ai
a ch
8 Bu iv
e
Stob Et
en
Gl
na Broige
route
Numbered steps correspond to those marked in red on the map. From here the views are extensive and breathtaking; mighty
Ben Nevis touches the sky to the north and Rannoch Moor’s
Starting from the car park at Altnafeadh (1) (grid reference
vast expanse sprawls to the east.
221563), follow the track south across the small footbridge
which spans the River Coupall and past the climbers’ cottage To commence the fine ridge walk, return via the same route
of Lagangarbh (2). by which you ascended Stob Dearg to the cairn at the broad
ridge atop Coire na Tulaich and continue west over the small
On the approach keep an eye out for lousewort. The path forks
knoll. Turn southwest to the ridge. Keep to the high ground
soon after the cottage; keep to the right-hand path following
following the ridge before descending to the foot of the
the burn south into the imposing natural amphitheatre of Coire
pyramidal top, Stob na Doire (6).
na Tulaich (3).
The ascent, and subsequent descent, of this top is short
The well-maintained footpath continues to climb, becoming
and steep. Follow the ridge to the southwest, descending
steeper and less distinct as you approach the broad, rock-strewn
steeply along the rocky ground to the saddle between
ridge between Stob Dearg and Stob na Doire (4). Here the
Stob na Doire and Stob Coire Altruim from where the
ground becomes rougher, and may involve a little scrambling.
impressively high buttresses of Stob Coire Altruim’s north-
At the cairn, head east and follow the ridge to the Buachaille’s
east face are visible (7).
highest summit Stob Dearg (5) (grid reference 223542).
76
Continue over Stob Coire Altruim before descending west-

southwest towards the final summit of the day, Stob na Broige
(8) (grid reference 191525).
From here re-trace your steps over Stob Coire Altruim to the
saddle before Stob na Doire (9).
A clear track from the left of the main ridge, heads north-east,
then north following the burn (Allt Coire Altruim) and the long,
steep descent to the Lairig Gartain (grid reference 201529). The
route of the descent is clear, but very steep at times, requiring
some care and attention to traverse the granite slabs towards
the bottom of the glen.
At the foot of Buachaille Etive Mòr, cross the River Coupall to
the north bank (10) and follow the track on the left / north-
west bank of the river. Continue along the well-made path
northeast for 2.5km until you reach the A82 Glen Coe Road.
From here head east-north-east on the roadside track back to

Altnafeadh and your starting point.
glossary / translations
Buachaille Etive Mòr Glen Etive’s mighty herdsman
Buachaille Etive Beag Glen Etive’s little herdsman
Burn Stream
Munros Collective name for Scottish mountain
peaks higher than 3000 feet
Stob Dearg Red Peak
Stob na Doire Peak of the Grove
Stob Coire Altruim Peak of the Corrie of Rearing
Allt Coire Altruim Stream of the Corrie of Rearing
Stob na Broige Peak of the Hoof
Coire na Tulaich Corrie of the Knoll
Lairig Eilde Pass of the Hinds
Lairig Gartain Pass of the Ticks
Rannoch Moor Bracken Moor
photographs
intro pages
om on the main ridge, looking NW to Buachaille
T
Etive Beag
72 The Buachaille
73 Buachaille Etive Beag, with Buachaille Etive Mòr beyond,
seen from Bidean nam Bian
74 top Looking down on route start point at Altnafeadh with
Blackwater Reservoir beyond
74 middle Stob Dearg and Coire na Tulaich from Lagangarbh
74 bottom White Lousewort
75 top Glen Etive from Stob na Doire
75 middle SW from Stob na Doire
75 bottom NE from Stob na Broige
77 top Glen Etive/Loch Etive from Stob na Broige
77 middle Stob na Doire from SW
77 bottom N from summit of Stob na Broige with Ben
Nevis beyond
77
SPECIAL TECHNIQUES
In general, special techniques are KITCHENER STITCH TURKISH CAST-ON

described within the pattern instructions. www.knitty.com/ISSUEsummer04/ METHOD
If you require some extra assistance, FEATtheresasum04.html fluffyknitterdeb.blogspot.
the following excellent online tutorials co.uk/2005/10/knitting-made-easier-
may help: LATVIAN BRAID turkish-cast-on.html
www.yarn.com/videos/video/how-to-
2X2 TUBULAR CAST-ON knit-a-latvian-braid/ FOR GENERAL REFERENCE
METHOD June Hemmons Hiatt, The Principles of
We used the winding provisional cast-on LONG-TAIL CAST-ON Knitting (2012 edn)
described here: METHOD Margaret Radcliffe, The Knitting Answer
asatricosa.com/winding-provisional- If you aren’t familiar with this technique, Book (2006)
cast-on/ then you may find this online tutorial Montse Stanley, The Handknitter’s
followed by Ysolda’s tubular cast-on for helpful: Handbook (2001 edn)
2x2 rib, modified slightly (only 3 rows of www.knittinghelp.com/video/play/ Elizabeth Zimmermann, Knitting Without
st st are worked): long-tail-cast-on Tears (1995 edn)
ysolda.com/tutorial/tubular-cast-on/
PROVISIONAL WINDING GLOSSARY

The 2x2 tubular cast-on method gives
a very neat finish, but the edge can CAST-ON METHOD Bind off UK: cast off
sometimes be a little tight. We therefore asatricosa.com/winding-provisional- Stockinette UK: stocking stitch
recommend that the stockinette stitch cast-on/ stitch
part of the cast on is worked using
Gauge UK: tension
gauge-size needles, before joining and STRANDED COLOURWORK
working the 2x2 rib on below-gauge-size Strand the yarn not in use loosely along Tapestry needle A
sewing needle
needles. the back of the work. If working two- suitable for wool,
handed, the “foreground” yarn will with a blunt tip
BACKWARD LOOP CAST-ON usually be in your left hand. If you are
METHOD working with both yarns in one hand, WHERE TO FIND ME
the “foreground” yarn will be taken If you’d like to see what I’m up to,
www.youtu.be/BE_XD854iMo
from below. If your tension is even, you can read my blog at
there should be no need to ‘catch’ or www.katedaviesdesigns.com or find
CROCHET CHAIN ‘weave’ your stitches (as is sometimes me on twitter (@KDaviesdesigns) or
PROVISIONAL CAST-ON recommended), unless the floats are instagram (@katedaviesdesigns).
www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3J- particularly long (eg on chart row 15 of
sUx_whE the Kokkeluri mittens). If you have a question about my
If you struggle to keep the floats from patterns, you may wish to check my
I-CORD tightening in small circumferences, it is Ravelry group www.ravelry.com/
www.stitchdiva.com/tutorials/ sometimes helpful to turn your knitting groups/kate-davies-love, where you
knitting/i-cord inside out. This forces the floats round will find informed discussions and
the outside of the fabric and helps to helpful knitting comrades, happy to
I-CORD BIND-OFF METHOD prevent bunching when you change share their expertise.
www.knitty.com/ISSUEfall06/ from one needle to the next.
FEATfall06TT.html If you find an error in this book, or have
(this technique is the last in the article) THREE-NEEDLE BIND-OFF a pattern query to which you cannot
METHOD find an answer, please contact me at
www.knitty.com/ISSUEfall06/ info@katedaviesdesigns.com
FEATfall06TT.html
79
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
BUACHAILLE: THE TEAM Kate Davies
Kate has a background in historical research, and, in one way
Gordon Anderson or another, her designs tend to be rooted in history, landscape,
Gordon is a native Highlander and qualified Mountain and place. She loves sheep and wool, and particularly enjoys
Leader with a doctorate in biological sciences. With a lifetime’s creating graphic colourwork designs. Kate can think of nothing
experience of walking in the mountains, his guiding ethos is better than being on top of a hill, with a grand Highland view,
to make the places that he knows and loves – Scotland’s most a big flask of tea and an Eccles cake, baked by Tom.
beautiful, dramatic, and undiscovered locations – accessible to, www.katedaviesdesigns.com
and enjoyed by, walking visitors of all abilities. Gordon thinks
the Highlands are beautiful all year round, but particularly Melanie Ireland
loves to be out in the hills on a clear Autumn day, with a nip in Mel grew up near Perth, and is a talented maker in many
the air and the first dusting of snow on the high peaks. media, from embroidery to hand-spinning. Knitting is her
www.ga-highland-walks.co.uk passion, and her busy hands work their way through around
16 miles of yarn per year. Whatever the Highland weather, Mel
Jen Arnall-Culliford is always stylishly kitted out in woolly items of her own making
After working in the fields of chemistry research, horticulture (generally in rich shades of teal and plum). She is Kate’s chief
and teaching, Jen is happy to discover that technical editing for knitterly advisor, and sample knitter, and can occasionally be
the hand-knitting industry is the most interesting and fulfilling persuaded to model some designs.
job she’s ever had. Jen owns three Blue Peter badges, including
a coveted silver badge, which she was awarded after appearing
CREDITS
on the show at the age of 11. Jen wants to knit all the things, Patterns and words Kate Davies
and her job exacerbates this problem significantly. Tom Barr
Recipes
www.jenacknitwear.co.uk
Mountain Leader / guided Gordon Anderson
Jim Arnall-Culliford walk
Jim has a background in teaching, and remains firmly attached Design advice and knitting Melanie Ireland
to his red pen, which he now fiercely wields when checking Editors Jen Arnall-Culliford
patterns. Although knitting has taken over his life, he feels Jim Arnall-Culliford
proud to lay claim to the title of the world’s slowest knitter. Print and Production Nic Blackmore
Jim loves to be outdoors, and whether it is hacking down Patterns and Recipes (Tom
Photography
overgrown sections of the garden, or pounding the mean Barr); guided walk (Gordon
streets of Frome in his running shoes, he enjoys the fresh air of Anderson and Tom Barr)
Somerset every day. Kate Davies and Melanie Ireland
Models
Tom Barr Logistics and linguistics Ivor Normand
Tom’s many talents include photography, making cheese, brewing
beer, and dashing about the Highlands in a running vest and fell BUACHAILLE: At home in the Highlands
shoes. He has a particular interest in and passion for Scottish food First published in 2015 by Kate Davies Designs, Ltd,
and culinary history and is happy to finally live somewhere where 17-19 East London Street, Edinburgh, EH7 4BN, UK.
he can run from his doorstep to the top of a Munro. © Copyright Kate Davies Designs Ltd 2015
Nic Blackmore
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
Nic is this book’s print and production guru, with an inimitable
The entire contents of this book and the patterns therein are
knack for making every page beautiful, clear, and effortless to
subject to copyright. The purchase of this book allows you to
read. Her heart is in Exmoor, where she loves to walk with her
use it for personal, non-commercial purposes. Items produced
mischievous human and canine companions, Russ and Maisie.
using the directions in this book are not licensed to be sold
Nic loves the colours and textures of all kinds of woolly yarn,
for profit. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in
which makes working on books like this an absolute joy. She is
a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means
also the proud owner of a tea trolley.
without prior written permission from the publisher.
Bruce
Printed by Bishops Press, Hampshire, UK
…is a fun-loving labrador, and Kate’s indispensable companion
on her daily walks. Bruce loves the outdoors, and particularly British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data:
enjoys finding and destroying the discarded gloves of West A catalogue record for this book is available from the British
Highland Way walkers. He knows his input has been crucial to Library. ISBN-978-0-9574666-2-3
this book and thinks he should write the next one.
80
ABBREVIATIONS
CC contrast colour
cdd centred
double decrease; slip 2
stitches together as if to knit, knit 1
stitch, pass 2 slipped stitches over
(2 stitches decreased)
dec decrease(s)/decreasing
dpns double-pointed needles
est established
inc increase(s)/increasing
k knit
k2CC knit
next 2 stitches using contrast
colour
inside back
k2tog knit
next 2 stitches together (1
stitch decreased)
k2togtbl knit next 2 stitches together
cover
through the back loop (1 stitch
decreased)
lh left hand
m1 lift
bar between stitches from front
to back and knit through the back
of this loop (1 stitch increased)
MC main colour
p purl
p2MC purl
next 2 stitches using main
colour
pm place marker
puk pick up and knit
rep repeat(s)/repeating
rh right hand
RS right side
sl slip
a stitch purlwise (unless stated
otherwise)
slm slip marker
ssk slip
2 stitches consecutively
knitwise, knit 2 slipped stitches
together through the back loops
(1 stitch decreased)
st(s) stitch(es)
tbl through the back loop(s)
WS wrong side
BUACHAILLE
BUACHAILLE
A passionate advocate of British sheep
and wool, designer Kate Davies decided to
develop her own hand-knitting yarn from
the resources on her doorstep. Her idea
was to create a 100% wool yarn, grown
by Scottish sheep: a yarn full of character
that reflected the distinctive qualities of the
landscape in which she lives and works.
The finest Scottish fleeces were selected,
graded and processed in traditional
worsted fashion to create a soft, smooth
yarn ideal for hand knitting.
Kate gave her yarn the name of one of
her favourite West Highland mountains
and created a rich palette of seven Scottish
shades. The end result is Buachaille – a yarn
as hardy and beautiful as the landscape in
which it was raised.
This book was made in celebration of
Buachaille, and all the things that make
Kate feel at home in the Scottish Highlands.
Knit ...twelve colourful accessories with
Kate, in her own Buachaille yarn.
Cook ...five delicious traditional recipes
with Scottish food enthusiast, Tom Barr.
Walk ...with mountain leader, Gordon
Anderson, around the iconic West Highland
peak of Buachaille Etive Mòr.
rrp uk £14.99

Davies Kate - Buachaille - 2015

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Davies Kate - Buachaille - 2015

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BUACHAILLE

At home in the Highlands

kate davies designs

first published in 2015 by

6 AT HOME IN THE HIGHLANDS

designs to warm your head, hands, neck and feet

12 kokkeluri 70 BUACHAILLE: A WALK IN THE HIGHLANDS

22 baffies: stranded and striped 80 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

38 bunnet: stranded and striped

a hunger for the hills

self diminished in the face of something more important. The life

indoors and outdoors

YARN SPECIAL TECHNIQUES

Using MC (Haar); knit 68

LEFT THUMB CHART

Weave in all ends to the back of the work,

Enjoy your Kokkeluri!

68 Using MC (Haar); knit

RIGHT THUMB CHART

Cochal is a Scottish Gaelic word for hood, and this simple

YARN HONEYCOMB PATTERN

Using 40cm / 16in below-gauge-size circular needle and

Change to gauge-size needle. Weigh your yarns.

Break CC1, and join in CC2.

Continue working Honeycomb Pattern using MC and

Change to MC (continue using gauge-size needles).

Soak Cochal in cool water and wool wash. Stretch

Enjoy your Cochal!

Step B: Knit 1 round.

Next round: K14, pm for new start of round, k to

You may wish to use larger needles to work the

Now try on your Baffie. If your Baffie feels right, 15

Join for working in the round, and p1, before

Round 1: *K2, p2*, rep from * to * around.

INSTRUCTIONS Change to gauge-size needles.

worked back to lh needle, then work from row 13

Rounds 14-28: Continue to work from stranded

Decrease sts as follows:

Change to below-gauge-size needles.

Bind off all sts.

Using below-gauge-size needles, pick up the

Begin working in the round as follows:

Bind off all sts.

Make a second Pawkie in the same way.

Weave in all ends. Neaten up thumb joins if

Enjoy your Stranded Pawkies!

Bind off all sts.

Enjoy your Striped Pawkies!

Bunnet is a colloquial Scots term for a hat. The word bunnet

NEEDLES AND NOTIONS

You may need different sized needles to match gauge in both

Using MC, 40cm / 16in below-gauge-size circular

Change to gauge-size needle and break off CC.

Join in CC. Change to dpns when required.

Round 18: Using CC, k2tog around. 5 sts remain.

Soak Bunnet in cool water and wool wash for 20-

Enjoy your Stranded Bunnet!

This striped version of the Bunnet pattern is shown here in

Change to gauge-size needle.

Soak Bunnet in cool water and wool wash for 20-

Round 1: K2, p2, rep from * to * around.