HONDA PCX 150 CVT MAINTENANCE

Distances are in kilometres. Part numbers are listed for parts replaced with new parts.
Previous CVT services Part No
19,400 23100K36J01
Dismantled and cleaned / re-greased. New CVT belt, rollers 22123KWN900
and clutch bearings. 91002-GA7-701
91001-KCW-003
31,500 23226GFM900
New CVT clutch bearings / roller pins and guides 23225KSY900
91002-GA7-701
91001-KCW-003
This service 40,800
Front pulleys 22110K36J00
22105K35V00
Rear pulleys 23205K35V00
23224K36J00
Belt 23100K36J01
Slide piece set 22011KWN900
Roller weights 22123KWN900
Guides (for pins) 23226GFM900
Pins 23225KSY900
Oil seals 91211KN7671
O-rings 91384KRW900
E-clips (circlips) 90605166720

Notes
Part numbers are probably from the 2017 parts catalogue.
40,000 kilometres = 25,000 miles.

Here ‘Grease’ = Suzuki Super Grease Type A. It is a heat

resistant grease that does not become too fluid with heat.
Check with a mechanic or supplier for an appropriate
grease.
Tools
socket 8mm and wrench with short extension bar; sockets 19/22mm
and big wrench with short extension bar; cross-head +2 (JIS)
screwdriver; flat-head screwdriver; pulley holder / 39mm clutch wrench
or socket; pliers (I use long nose); small metal-file (if dowels are sticking);
handful of cotton-buds; parts-cleaner spray and clean rags; suitable
grease (see above note); gloves; flask of hot back coffee and plastic
cup
1 Side panel removal.

Remove the rubber cover.

Just lift it from either end and it pulls off.
There are no fasteners on it, only rubber
studs.

2 Side panel removal.

Remove the screws and bolts from the

upper part. See also under the passenger
foot-peg / black bolt by side-stand pivot.

3 Side panel removal. under-cowl loaction

Remove two trim-clips (black plastic) /

black metal screw from front-wheel-arch. wheel-arch location
As in the pic, they do not always come out
smoothly (wheel-arch location).

Metal screw located in wheel-arch

between the two pushpins. (Sorry, no Push the centre. It releases.
picture)

4 Side panel removal.

Careful not to snap any of the tabs. They

break without too much force if cold. A few
PCX plastic parts are all prone to this, and
not only those indicated here.
5 CVT cover removal.

Remove three bolts from black plastic front

part of the CVT cover.

(YouTube screenshot I took from a video by:

Precision Cutdown)

6 CVT cover removal.

Remove ten bolts from the CVT cover.

They vary in length.
Forwardmost – shortest
Centre two – longest
Rearmost – mid-size

7 CVT cover removal.

If the cover does not come off easily, you
may have a sticking/corroded dowel.
The forwardmost of the two dowels (see
number 8) may be stuck in its hole.
Insert something like a screwdriver and
gently pry off the cover by ‘lifting’ it away
from the bike.

8
The front (blue) dowel often got stuck.
The rear (yellow) dowel is usually free.
Be very gentle if you pry off the cover.
9
To avoid further having to pry off the cover,
I used a small metal file to slightly reduce
the size of the sticking dowel. I filed just a
little and evenly all the way round the
dowel and applied a tiny bit of grease to it
when replacing the CVT cover.

10
Use a universal pully holder or similar (red
handle) to prevent the clutch outer from
turning. See next…

11
Push the pulley holder against the clutch
outer and scooter stand to prevent it from
slipping out of position. Loosen the clutch
outer nut. You can remove the pulley
holder and clutch outer nut freely now.

12
Gloves on! The dust from the worn parts is
bad for your health and the necessary parts
cleaner is, too.
13
Insert pully holder pins into pulley holes.
Place handle under rear shaft to keep in
place.

14
Holding pulley holder in place, loosen front
pully nut.

15
Remove front pulley driven (outer) face.

16
Remove clutch assembly with belt around it
as one. Slide it outwards towards you.
17
Remove front pulley drive face. As you see
here and in next pic, there are components
behind that which will fall out if not caught.
This is not a problem. They are not
delicate/intricate (and you will probably
replace them anyway).

18
Remove roller backplate.
Note – as mentioned above, you can pull
this out with the pulley drive face and rollers
all as one if you put your fingers around the
whole assembly. It will not hurt anything if
you let the rollers fall by pulling out only the
drive face and boss first (see 17).

19
The main CVT parts which, especially if you
are doing a lower mileage service, you may
want to clean/inspect/re-use.
I knew that at 40,000 kilos and with visible
(but just about acceptable) wear I would
be replacing most of them.

20
Clean out the CVT housing. Use a parts
cleaner spray sparingly. Not much is
needed and it is apparently very bad for
your health to inhale this spray and/or the
dust you are cleaning out.
Where possible, I use a clean rag to which I
apply spray immediately before use rather
than spraying the bike. The
spray ’evaporates’ almost immediately.
21

Use a 39mm flat clutch spanner (wrench).

22
To loosen the regular right=tight nut, gently
tap the other end of the spanner like this.
DO NOT REMOVE the nut yet! Gently tap

Note – The (expensive) Honda manual (for

which I paid a LOT of money for delivery to
Japan) tells you to use a clutch spring
compressor. I believe most people use the
following method instead with no problems.

23 Place the clutch/pulley assembly on a flat

solid surface (a sheet of wood on the
ground is fine, but done carefully this does
not even require that. Sit on something and
put your feet firmly on the clutch, but do not
stand on it.
Loosen / slowly remove the clutch nut.
Once it is off, the clutch assembly will spring
apart if your feet are not firmly in place.

24 With the nut off, slowly and evenly raise your

feet. If you take off one foot before the
other, the assembly will spring apart. Avoid
this.

Later, when putting the serviced/new parts

together, you can do the reverse with your
hands on a workbench etc, but it requires
some strength and patience to do it.
25
Remove the clutch assembly – it just lifts off
without resistance.

26 Take apart the rear pully assembly.

I knew I would probably replace all pulley /
associated parts (oil seals etc), but took
them apart to clean/inspect them in case I
could get another 5,000 kilos (3,000 miles)
out of them without damaging the bike /
tolerating rough performance. For the
reader’s sake, I will include that here, but I
replaced the parts with new ones as you will
see later.

27
Gripping the pulleys and sleeve very firmly,
twist and pull the sleeve to slide it off. It is a
very tight fit (it needs to be), but it is (should
be) greased on the inner surface.

28
Remove the three pins and pin guides. To
avoid getting parts cleaner inside this
assembly (avoid it eating all the bearings’
grease and leaving unusable sludge inside)
do not use it to clean around the pins.
A rag is enough for now.
29
Slide the pulleys apart.
If reusing them, check the oil seals and
O-rings for wear. It’s a good idea to replace
them even if you are reusing the main parts.
I knew at this point I would be replacing the
main parts so I did not pry out/remove the
seals/O-rings.

30
Oil seal (yellow arrows). There is another on
the reverse side of this part.
O-rings (red arrows).
To replace the oil seals, gently pry them out
with a flat-blade screwdriver. There is
significant resistance when inserting new
ones – that’s normal. Tap them in evenly all
the way around. I use the side of a big
socket, which ‘clinks’ when they are in.

31
Take apart the clutch.

If you do not intend to inspect the clutch

parts, skip this section. Go to number 41.

Remove the E-clips (circlips).

I found this advice useful (YouTube link).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QLcKsSZrusM

32
Gently, and evenly on all three points, pry
the plate from the clutch. There will
probably be significant resistance, but there
is no risk of damaging/bending this if you
are gentle and persistent. I had a new one
to use, so I was not too gentle, but it was not
necessary to use the new one. I cleaned up
this one and reused it. It did not get bent
being pried off.
33
Remove the three clutch springs.
Caution!
I found this extremely frustrating and difficult
to do to begin with. I learned that it is easier
if you pull of the short end which is attached
to the adjacent clutch weight (shoe). See
next…

34
Grip the short end of the spring for a slightly
easier job of getting them off.
Getting them back on was considerably
more difficult for me, but if you have good
hand strength, that’s all it takes – not skill.
Perhaps if you have a vice (I do not), you
can use two hands on the pliers.

35 Pry off the three clutch weights (shoes).

If this is the first disassembly of the clutch in
40,000 kilometres (25,000 miles) they will be
very stiff and will not hang loose with gravity
as they should (and do after cleaning).
There is significant resistance but no
damage results in prying them off slowly
and steadily. Again, if you have a
vice/workbench, you pry and pull at the
same time.

36
Clean and inspect the backing plate and
its pins. Mine showed very little wear and
the pins were perfectly upright (right angle
to the backing plate). I reused this.
37
Clean and inspect the weights (shoes).
Mine showed wear but not a lot. After lightly
greasing the backing plate pins, I reused
them.
Main picture: Used
weights (above) have
little wear compared to
new (below).

38
Make sure the rubber dampers are in good
condition or replace them.
(Pic shows clutch before complete
disassembly.)

39 (1) Check rubber dampers (2) slide weights

onto pins (3) replace springs (4) replace
side plate – I brushed the rust off mine (5)
replace E-clips. Note - I used new E-clips,
but I cannot see how they might become
worn, so maybe it is not necessary to use
new ones if the existing ones are not twisted
or too loose once refitted. You may lose
them trying to fit/remove them as they fly
off it you are not careful.

40
Cleaning and inspection of pulleys and
associated parts.
Manual states spring should be replaced if
less than 146.6mm, but my new one here
(green) is barely that, although it is clearly
less compressed by use than the used one.
41
Inspect drive and driven faces of both
pulleys for wear. Although I did not have
deep grooves at 40,800 kilometres, I could
clearly see that the face had been worn to
a curve, which for obvious reasons is not
desirable. See next…

42 A ‘straight edge’ tool (mine is a small

carpenter’s square) like a ruler will show you
if the face of the pulley is worn beyond
reasonable use. There are clearly defined
specifications in the manual (but I do not
have mine as I write this).
For me this is too worn, and with similar
levels of wear on each face of each pully, I
chose to replace them all.

43
Insert new oil seals into new/clean pulley
parts.

Note – from here all images of pulleys and

associated parts are of new ones (except
the front pully bush which shows no
significant wear).

44
Lightly grease the O-rings or coat them with
a little engine oil. Slide them into place into
the grooves. You’ll get a little oil or grease
on the pulleys, which you must and can
very easily clean off soon, but do not bother
yet, there will be more grease getting on
the pulleys before you finish this part.
45
Grease the inner surface. A light coating is
enough.

46
To keep the two parts of the pulley from
sliding together I put the (clean) handles of
a pair of pliers either side of the shaft.
This is to avoid the pins moving in their slots
as that causes the grease to come out of
the slots,

47
Insert the pins/guides and generously
grease each of the three slots.

48
Lightly grease the inner surface of the Twist
sleeve and slide it onto the shaft taking care
not to disturb the O-rings.
It helps to twist the sleeve as you slide it on.
You will see excess grease ooze from the
top and bottom of the sleeve.
49
Remove the plier’s handles (or whatever
you used) from between the two pulley
halves and push the two halves together.
There will be excess grease here again.
Wipe off the grease with a rag sprayed with
parts cleaner.

See number 49

50 pulley
I tried to show the assembly using Word-Art. sleeve
The blue/red bits are the bearings which are shaft
already factory-greased but which need
more as time goes on.
The dotted line and orange bits are the
cotton-buds and grease/places where it
needs to be applied.
Manual states seven grammes. Too much is
NOT advisable – it will leak.
Cotton-buds are very useful for this.

51 Wipe off ALL visible grease.

Assemble the clutch/pulley assembly.
Line up the flat parts of the clutch
backplate hole and the shaft (see number
49) and compress the spring with feet /
bodyweight.
Re-fit the nut.

52

In case you have not done it yet, make

double-sure there is no grease on ANY visible
surface of any assembly before continuing. If
there is grease, you’ll be doing much of this
work AGAIN, and you might need another
belt.
53 Put new roller weights into the back-side of
pully facing them all the same way (either
all clockwise or all anti-clockwise) (Yellow
arrow).
Put new slide-pieces into slots (red arrow).
Sandwich them together so the roller
weights do not fall out.
Note – Some people use a specific
roller-grease. I do not. Advice varies.

54
Make sure there is no excess grease on the
shafts. I find a very light coating of clean
grease is enough.

55 Insert the bush into the front

pully/roller-weight assembly and re-fit all as free of grease
one making sure the roller weights don’t fall
out.
Make certain there is no grease anywhere
on/in the assembly before inserting it.

bush

56
With the new belt around the rear pully,
replace the clutch/rear pully assembly.
The inner surface of the belt will touch the
front shaft so again make sure there is no
excess grease on the front shaft or cover
the shaft.
Push the belt over the bush. This is usually
not easy.
(Stock photo. Picture is NOT of a PCX).
57 Replace the outer part of the front pully.
The belt is in the way of this (unavoidable).
There’s very little thread visible on the shaft.
After one or two turns by hand, you’ll need
the socket. Tighten until there is too much
resistance to tighten one-handed, then use
the pulley holder and tighten to torque
spec (see manual or online).
Same with clutch outer nut.

58 Replace CVT cover.

Replace footrest fairing, taking care to

insert all the fairing’s plastic tabs carefully
into their respective holes.
Reverse of numbers 1-4.
Trim-clips, which seem to be easily
damaged, can be bought in bulk online.
Pt# 90116-SP0-003

59 Test-ride.

Reward.

If I have made errors, let me know on the PCX forum messenger.