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Beginning Sewing eBook

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4 2
Use this sewing machine
10 1
11
map to help you get
acquainted with the
parts of your sewing 3
machine.

6
12

5
7
18

19 8

137. Stitch length dial – Use

14
17
the needle bar. When down, holds fabric in
this to change the length of place for sewing. When it is raised it re-
your stitch. A higher number indi- leases thread tension. Always thread the

16
cates a longer stitch. The longest set- machine with the presser foot in the raised
ting is called a basting stitch, and is used position.

15
to hold fabrics together temporarily. 15. Bobbin cover – Covers the bobbin
8. Reverse stitch lever – Use this to sew area while sewing.
backward. Predominantly used to lock 16. Bobbin cover release button – Push to
stitches at the start and end of seams. release the bobbin case cover and insert a
1. Spool Pin – This holds your thread as 9. Power Switch – Turns machine power new bobbin.
you sew. on and off. 17. Feed dog – Group of ‘teeth’ that feed
2. Bobbin winder spindle – Holds the bob- 10. Bobbin winder tension guide – Regu- fabric forward when sewing. Some ma-
bin in place when winding bobbins. lates the tension on the thread when wind- chines have a lever to drop the feed dogs,
3. Bobbin release – Once your thread fills ing a bobbin. Use your manual or use enabling the user to feed fabric manually
the bobbin, this releases, causing bobbin indicators on the machine to determine the (not recommended for beginners – used
winding to stop. threading process for bobbin winding. for special applications).
4. Stitch width dial – Controls the width of 11. Thread tension dial – Controls the ten- 18. Needle – Moves up and down to cre-
your stitch. Higher number equals a wider sion of your top thread. A higher number in- ate stitches.
stitch. Use this on zig zag stitches. dicates more tension applied to the thread. 19. Needle plate – a metal plate beneath
5. Stitch Selection dial – Use this to select 12. Thread take-up lever – Moves up and the needle and presser foot. Often con-
from the various stitches on your machine. down with the needle bar as you sew. tains markings to aid in stitch placement.
Computerized machines may have buttons 13. Needle clamp screw – Holds the nee- Contains an opening for the needle, and
and an LCD screen to indicate stitch selec- dle in place. Loosen to remove an old nee- one for the feed dogs.
tion. dle, put a new needle in place, then tighten
6. Handwheel – Use this to manually raise to secure the needle.
and lower the needle from the fabric. Al- 14. Presser Foot – Is raised and lowered
ways turn the handwheel toward you. using a lever on the back or right side of Special thanks to sew4home.com.
 Cutting
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• Shears
• Snips
• Seam Rippers
• Pinking Shears

Measuring and Marking

• Chalk Pencil
• Tape Meausre
• Gridded Ruler
• Vanishing Fabric Marker
• Regular Pencil
 Sewing
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• Thread
• Pins
• Needles
• Iron
• Bobbins
• Fabric

Your Machine

Mechanical Computerized
The Janome Sewist 500 The Janome Magnolia 7330

• Use dials for stitch selection • Computerized machines offer a

• Components are controlled by wider range of features, and
mechanical means, rather than a memory capabilities
computer
 Mechanical Machines
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Handwheel
• Use this to manually raise and
Stitch Width Adjustment lower your needle
• Use this to make your • Very important for turning
Stitch Selection
stitches wider – especially corners, when you want your
• Change stitches by
helful on zig-zag stitch needle to remain in the fabric
dial selector
• Be careful which foot you • Always turn the handwheel
• May be called Pattern
have on when making toward you
Selection
adjustments, so you don’t
break your needle!

Reverse Stitch Lever

•Used to secure Stitch Length
stitching at the start Adjustment
and end of seams • Use this to adjust your
stitch length for differ-
ent applications
• Adjust stitches from
1-5; Use 2-3 for normal
sewing
• A long stitch (5),
called a basting stitch,
can be used to hold
fabric together tem-
porarily
• Remember: the
Tension Adjustment smaller your stitches,
•When diagnosing tension problems, always re- the harder it is to
thread your top and bobbin thread and try remove them!
sewing again. This often does the trick
• When tension is out of balance, threads will
break, or seams will pucker
• Problems with the top thread will appear on Threading
the bottom and vice versa • Make sure you always thread your
• To loosen, adjust to lower number. To tighten, machine with the presser foot up
go to higher number; move 1/2 step increments • Many machines have numbered
and test guides to follow
• This only adjusts the top tension, if you have • Reference your manual for specific
loops on the top of your fabric, make sure the threading instructions
bobbin thread is in the case correctly
Computerized Machines
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Convenience Features
•Computerized machines in-
clude a number of additional
features to make sewing easier
• These include a locking
stitch button, a memorized Stitch Adjustment Buttons

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needle up/down button and • Buttons, rather than dials, allow
a start/stop button you to change stitches and
settings

.coSpeed Control Slider

•Use the slider to control
your speed. Set it low for
difficult angles and curves
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 Feed Dog
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• This feature pulls your fabric forward

when sewing

• The more advanced machines may

have a higher number of feed dogs, or
may have additional abilities, like a built
in walking foot, to advance fabric from
the top and bottom at once

Plate Guides
•Use seam guides to help guide your
fabric as you are sewing

• Line the fabric with a guide, and look

at that as you sew, not at the needle
and fabric

• There are also add-on fabric guides,

and feet with guides for special tasks
 Winding a Bobbin
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• Reference your machine’s

manual for specifics

•Follow threading instructions

• Push-Pull type — pull out

handwheel to wind

• Auto-Declutch — Push over

the bobbin pin; the bobbin re-
leases when full

Inserting the Bobbin

•Reference your machine’s man-
ual for specific instructions

•The bobbin locks the stitches on

the bottom of your seam

• The bobbin thread has its own

tension, and you have to make
sure that the thread is engaged
in the tension spring
 Making Seams
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•You need to secure or lock your stitches at the beginning and ending of each seam

•Use the reverse stitch lever/button to sew in reverse at the start and end of seams

• If your machine offers it, you can use a Locking Stitch button at the start and end of
seams. This function will tie off your seams for you.

• When sewing, line the fabric up with the needle so that your stitches “catch” when you
start sewing.

Backtacking
•Start at the edge of the fabric and sew a few stitches

• Press the reverse button or lever

• Sew backward to the edge of the fabric

• Release lever and sew forward

•Repeat at the end of the seam

Locking Stitch
• Simply press the button at the start and
end of each seam

• Keep the foot pedal depressed until

needle stops moving

• Makes a knot at the back of fabric

 Stitching Corners
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•Needle up/down — keep

needle in fabric at corner,
raise presser foot to pivot

•Clip the corners when

turning to reduce bulk

Important Stitches
Straight Stitch Blind Hem Stitch

Zig Zag Stitch

Buttonhole

Overedge Stitch Decorative

Stitches

Basting Stitch
(straight stitch
with longer
stitch length)
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Make a Napkin
Supplies & Materials
• Fabric of Choice for Napkin – You will need
one 18” square for each napkin (You can
get four napkins out of 1 yard of fabric
• Thread in a color to match napkin
• Scissors
• Pins
• Iron

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• Sewing Machine

Make a Simple Hem

Step 1 Step 5

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Step 1: Cut the fabric into one 18” square

Step 2: With wrong sides together, fold one edge

over ¼” and press in place. Fold over another ¼”
and press again. The raw edge is now enclosed in
the fold.

Step 3: Repeat Step 2 on the edge across from the

es
edge you just folded. Step 2

Step 4: Pin the two pressed and folded edges in

place.
Step 6
Step 5: At the machine, stitch the hems in place,
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keeping your stitches about 1/8” from the folded

edge. One trick is to put the right outside edge of the
presser foot against the fold to keep a straight line.
Step 3
Step 6: Repeat steps 2-5 for the remaining two oppo-
site edges of the napkin. Pay special attention to the
corner folds, as there is added bulk in that seam.
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Step 7: Press the finished napkin. Repeat steps to Step 7

complete additional napkins.
all

Step 4

Step 8
 Appliqué - Raw Edge
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Appliqué is attaching fabric for embellishment to a base fabric.

Supplies & Materials With raw edge appliqué, you just stitch the shape to the base fabric without
• Scraps of fabric for top and bottom of acorn turning under the raw edges of the fabric.
• Thread in colors to match fabric scraps
• Scissors
• Pins
• Pencil or fabric marking pen
• Template plastic or cardboard for
acorn templates
• Iron
• Sewing Machine
Step 2 Step 3
Step One: Create the acorn template.
Step 1
Step Two: Trace the template onto the back of your
fabric, and cut out the pieces.

Step Three: Pin the acorn bottom piece to your base

fabric and stitch in place, making your stitches about
1/8” from the edge of the fabric.

Step Four: Pin the acorn top piece on the fabric, and
stitch in place, making stitches about 1/8” from the
edge of the fabric.
Finished Raw Edge Appliqué
Step Five: Press.

Supplies & Materials Appliqué - Faced

• Napkin or other product for embellishment In Faced Appliqué, you stitch two pieces of fabric together, then turn them
• Scraps of fabrics in two colors for acorn right side out so that the edge of the fabric is finished.
• Thread in colors to match fabric scraps
• Template plastic or cardboard for
acorn templates
• Scissors
• Pins
• Pencil or Fabric Marking Pen
• Sewing Machine

Step One: Make a template.

Steps 2-4 Step 5
Step Two: Place the two pieces of fabric for the acorn bot-
Step 1
tom with right sides together. Trace around the acorn bot-
tom template with a pencil or fabric marking pen. You may
choose to pin the fabric pieces together.

Step Three: At your machine, stitch the two pieces of fabric together, following the line drawn from the
template.

Step Four: Trim around the shape, leaving about 1/8” of fabric past the
stitches. Cut a hole in the fabric of the back for turning right side out. Be
careful to stay away from the seam edges when cutting, and don’t cut
into the front of the acorn!
Step 6
Step Five: Turn the shape right side out and press flat.

Step Six: Repeat steps 2-5 to create the acorn top.

Step Seven: Pin the acorn bottom in place on the napkin, then stitch in place, placing stitches 1/8” from
the edge of the acorn.

Finished Faced Appliqué Step Eight: Pin the acorn top in place (we overlapped the bottom slightly). Stitch in place, making
stitches 1/8” from the edge of the acorn top.
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