Lesson #7 in Nail Care Services

Creating Basic Nail Designs

Preparation of Manicure Table

To give a professional manicure, all rules of sanitation must be followed. The table and
the hands of the manicurist must be perfectly cleaned Containers, bowls, instruments
and materials must be in perfect order Do not ask the patron to sit at the table with the
remains of the previous manicure in sight. Always clean the table immediately upon
completion of a manicure, so that it will be ready for the next patron. This will make the
manicure more pleasing to the patron and will put her in a more receptive mood for your
advice.

Procedures

1. Sponge the manicure table with disinfectant

2. Place a clean towel over the armrest or cushion

3. Place a bowl of warm soapy water on the left side of the patron and prepare the
following tools and materials

a. Towel-wrapped pillow

b. Buffer

c. Steel file
d. Emery board

e. Alcohol

f. Cotton container

g. Finger bath

h. Nail brush

i. Wet sanitizer containing manicure implements

j. Tray with nail polishes

4. Place metal implements and Orangewood sticks in a jar sanitizer containing cotton
saturated with alcohol

5. Arrange cream jars, lotion bottles, and nail polishes to the left of the manicurist in the
order to be used

6. Place the nail file (which has been sponged with alcohol) fresh emery boards and
clean chamois-covered buffer to the right of the manicurist

7. Attach a small plastic bag to the table with scotch tape on either the right or left side
for soiled materials

Procedure for a Manicure

Preparation

1. Prepare manicure table

2. Select and arrange required sanitized implements, cosmetics and materials

3. Ask the patron to sit.

4. Wash your hands

5. Examine patron's hands

II. Procedures/Steps

1. Remove old nail polish-moisten a piece of cotton with the nail polish remover and
press over the nail for a few minutes to soften the polish

2. Shape nail- discuss with the patron the nail shape best suited for him/her.

3. Soften cuticle-immerse left and right hand into finger bowl for softening

4. Dry fingertips-holding towel with both hands, carefully dry the left and right hands
including the area between the fingers

5. Apply cuticle remover wind a thin layer of cotton around the blunt edge of an
orangewood stick or use as an applicator

6. Loosen cuticle- use the spoon end of the cuticle pusher to gently loosen the cuticle

7. Clean under free-edge-use cotton tipped orangewood stick, dip in soapy water and
clean under free-edge from the center forward each side with gentle pressure

8. Trim cuticle if necessary, use cuticle nippers or scissors to remove dead cuticle,
hangnails or uneven cuticle

9. Apply cuticle oil/cream- around the sides and base of the nail and massage with the
thumb in a rotary motion.

10. Cleanse nails- brush nails in soap bath with downward movement to clean nails and
fingers of both hands.

11. Dry hands and nails thoroughly

12. Treat nails and cuticles of the right hand as described under steps 4-11

II. Procedures/Steps

1. Bevel the nails- carefully re-examine the nails for defects. Use the fine side of an
emery board to give the nails a smooth beveled edge
2. Apply base coat- with long strokes to the left hand, starting with the little fingers and
working toward the thumb.

3. Apply liquid polish- dip the camel's hair brush into the polish and wipe off excess by
pressing it gently against the sides of the bottle. Apply the polish lightly and quickly,
using sweeping strokes from the base to the free edge of the nail.

4. Remove excess polish- dip cotton-tipped orangewood stick into nail polish remover

5. Apply a top coat or seal coat-apply top coat with long strokes to the left hand and
then to the right in the same manner as the base coat.

6. Apply hand lotion- apply hand lotion with light manipulations ever the hands from
wrist to fingertips.

Pedicuring

A pedicure is a way to improve the appearance of the feet and the nails. It provides a
similar service to a manicure. The word pedicure refers to the superficial cosmetic
treatment of the feet and toenails. A pedicure can help prevent nail diseases and nail
disorders. Pedicures are done for cosmetic, therapeutic, and medical purposes.

I. Equipment
The equipment, implements, and materials required for pedicuring are the same as that
of manicuring, with the following additions.

1. Low stool for cosmetologist or manicurist.

2. Ottoman to which the patron’s foot to rest upon.
3. Two basins of warm water, large enough for the foot bath.
4. Waterproof apron or an extra Turkish towel placed over the lap to protect the uniform.
5. Two towels for drying patrons’ feet
6. Paper towel
7. Special toenail nippers
8. Antiseptic solutions
9. Cotton pledgets and foot powder

II. Preparation
1. Arrange the required equipment, implements, and materials
2. Ask the patron to sit on the Pedi-chair, and assist him/her in removing shoes.
3. Place her feet on a clean paper towel on footrest.
4. Wash your hands.

III. Procedures/Steps

1. Remove old polish from the nails of both feet

2. File nails of left foot with emery board. Shape the nails straight across. Do not cut or
file corners of nails, smooth rough edges with fine side of emery board

3. Shape nails of right and left foot

4. With cotton tipped orangewood stick, apply cuticle solvent to the cuticle under the
free edge of each toe nail

5. Loosen cuticle gently on right and left foot. Do not us too much pressure Avoid the
use of metal pusher

6. Do not cut the cuticle, nip only any large ragged hangnail

7. Massage each toe with cuticle cream or oil

8. Repeat steps 1-7 on the right foot

Nail art designs become more popular as women give too much effort and spend more
time and even money to have beautiful nails. There are three methods oftenly used in
making nail art designs. These are nail art stickers, freehand drawing using nail polish
and airbrushing

Nail stickers, also termed as nail decals, are considered to be the simplest nail art
designs that are being used This is done by placing stickers on bare or polished nails
Nail stickers come in different de signs and can often be more detailed than any other
types of nail art

Airbrushing is another method of making nail art de signs This is done by a nail
technician with the aid of a small stencil placed over the nail and designing nails through
the airbrush This method is most common on gel or acrylic nails but can also be used
on natural nails

Painted freehand nail art designs use nail polish in a bottle or nail polish pen. Through
freehand nail art design, a talented nail technician can make various nail art designs

The Plain Manicure

Plain manicure is the traditional type of nail design that is done by applying nail polish to
the entire nail plate

Though plain manicures could be done easier compared to other nail designs, still all of
the needed implements, tools, materials, and equipment must be prepared and ready
before a nail technician starts giving his/her client a manicure. To do this, prepare the
tools and materials such as a fingerbowl with warm soapy water, emery board, buffer (if
needed), nail polish remover, cotton, orangewood stick, the basecoat, nail polish, and
the topcoat, cuticle pusher, nail clipper and nipper, cuticle remover and nail brush

Start the plain manicure process by removing old polish from your client's fingernails.
This can be done through the use of cotton dipped into nail polish remover Make sure
that all of the fingernails do not have any enamel or old polish after the removal has
been done. Do this step on both the left and right hand of your client. Have the desired
fingernail shape by having the nails trim through the use of nail clippers and nippers If
still needed, buff your client's fingernails. Soak your client's finger into the finger bowl
Apply cuticle remover and push back the cuticle using your nail pusher Brush the
fingernails thereafter to clean the surface Use orangewood stick to clean the under free
edge of the nails Apply the one basecoat, the nail polish, two to three coats of nail
polish and a coat of topcoat
Basic Nail Art Designs

1. Classic French Manicure

French Manicure is ideal for those with short nails and moderate length. It is done by
painting fingernails with light pink or "nude" base coat with the tip painted with bright or
pearl white This design is believed to be the most universal design as it fits with jeans
and a shirt or even in more formal wears

In doing a French manicure, you have to prepare all the tools or implements, materials,
and equipment. Implements needed are filing implements, cuticle nippers, fingernail
clipper, cuticle pusher, Orangewood stick, nail brush, nail buffer, cuticle scissors, and
emery board Materials include absorbent cotton, hand towel, table mat, spatula, linen
and cosmetics like nail polish, lotion, disinfectant, nail polish solvent, and acetone and
cuticle remover. Also prepare a manicure table, manicuring stool or chair, cushion,
supply tray, containers, and finger bowls

Make sure that before you start doing the procedures, all necessary implements,
materials and equipment are all ready and set Do not forget to do sanitation Refer to the
previous lessons for preventive measures

Procedure:

1. Remove all existing enamel by means of cotton dipped in nail polish remover Make
sure that the nails are free from any enamel

2. Using nail clipper, remove all excess nail length Shape nails thereafter with an emery
board Buff nails if still needed
3.Soften the cuticle in warm soapy water and dry it afterwards using a clean towel

4. Apply cuticle remover and push back the dead cuticle

5. Gently trim the dead cuticle using a cuticle nipper. Do this on single segment only

6. Use Orangewood stick and clean the free edge Brush fingernails thereafter

7. Apply cuticle oil or cream over the hands and massage them

8. Remove any grease from the nail plate through the use of a towel

9. Apply colorless base coat

10. Apply white or beige nail polish at the fingernails free edge

11. Remove all excess polish with Orangewood stick tipped with cotton and dipped into
acetone

2. Half Moon

Half-moon style of manicure is done by applying enamel over the whole nail except for
the lunula area. Half-moon also requires the use of different nail care tools, materials
and equipment. It needs the preparation of manicure table, arrangement of materials
and tools which will be used, including the sanitation process and the checking of the
condition of the client or patron

Half-moon needs implement like a nail file, cuticle nipper, fingernail clipper, cuticle
pusher, orangewood stick, nail brush, nail buffer and cuticle scissors It also requires
materials like absorbent cotton, towel, table mat, spatula and linen Materials needed
include the cosmetics like enamel, alcohol, colored nail polish, lotion, disinfec tant, nail
polish solvent, acetone and cuticle remover Tools needed, however, are manicure table,
manicuring stool or chair, cushion, supply tray, containers and finger bowl

Procedure:

I. Remove all existing enamel by means of cotton dipped in nail polish remover Make
sure that the nails are free from any enamel

2. Using nail clipper, remove all excess nail length. Shape nails thereafter with an emery
board Buff nails if still needed

3. Shape the nail edges through the use of an emery board

4. Soften the cuticle in warm soapy water and dry it afterwards using a clean towel

5. Apply the cuticle remover and push back the dead cuticle

6. Trim the dead cuticle using the nipper and clean the edges through Orangewood
stick

7. Brush the nails in downward movement

8. Apply the cuticle oil or lotion to the hands and then massage hands and arms

9. Remove grease from the nail plate with a towel

10. Apply the platinum twice on the nail

11. Apply the color enamel from one side to the other side of the nail, following the
shape of the lunula at the base of the nail

12. Apply the top coat.

acetone

13. Remove all excess polish with

Orangewood stick tipped with cotton and dipped into acetone.

3. Half Moon with Tip

Half-moon with tip style of manicure is done by applying enamel over the whole nail
except for the lunula area and tip of the nail. Half-moon also requires the use of different
nail care tools, materials and equipment It needs the preparation of manicure table,
arrangement of materials and tools which will be used, including the sanitation process
and the checking of the condition of the client or patron

Procedure:

1. Remove all existing enamel by means of cotton dipped in nail polish remover, Make
sure that the nails are free from any enamel

2. Using nail clipper, remove all excess nail length Shape nails thereafter with an emery
board Buff nails if still needed

3. Shape the nail edges through the use of an emery board

4. Soften the cuticle in warm soapy water and dry it afterward using a clean towel

5. Apply the cuticle remover and push back the dead cuticle.

6. Trim the dead cuticle using the nipper and clean the edges through an Orangewood
stick

7. Brush the nails in downward movement

8. Apply the cuticle oil or lotion to the hands and then massage hands and arms.

9. Remove grease from the nail plate with a towel.

10. Apply the platinum twice on the nail.

11. Apply the color enamel from one side to the other side of the nail, following the
shape of the lunula at the base of the nail and the shape of the nail at the free edge of
the nail.

12. Apply the top coat.

13. Remove all excess polish with an Orangewood stick tipped with cotton and dipped
into acetone.

To master the proportion as well as the application of this design, you may have it done
first on nail designs on plastic spoons.

4. Elephant Tusk

This type of manicure style creates an S-curve on nails with the enamel application. This
design leaves a slightly larger gap along the nail walls

Nail care tools, materials and equipment used in this style are the same as that of the first
three mentioned styles

Procedure:

|. Remove all existing enamel by means of cotton dipped in nail polish remover Make sure
that the nails are free from any enamel

2. Using nail clipper, remove all excess nail length Shape nails thereafter with an emery
board Buff nails if still needed

3. Shape the nail edges through the use of an emery board

4. Soften the cuticle in warm soapy water and dry it afterwards using a clean towel
5. Apply the cuticle remover and push back the dead cuticle

6. Trim the dead cuticle using the nipper and clean the edges through Orangewood stick.

7. Brush the nails in downward movement

8. Apply the cuticle oil or lotion to the hands and then massage hands and arms

9. Remove grease from the nail plate with a towel.

10. Apply the first coat or platinum twice on the nails.

11. Create an S-curve shape using a colored nail polish

12. Make a small half circle on the other side of the nail

13. Apply the top coat

14. Remove all excess polish with Orangewood stick tipped with cotton and dipped into
acetone.

5. V-Shape

V-shape is a fancy design that creates an illusion of the nails appearing longer than they
actually are It is done by artistically applying enamel into the nails This style uses the same
nail care tools, materials and

equipment as the first four mentioned styles

Procedure:

1 Remove all existing enamel by means of cotton dipped in nail polish remover Make sure
that the nails are free from any enamel

2. Using nail clipper, remove all excess nail length Shape nails thereafter with an emery
board Buff nails if still needed

3. Shape the nail edges through the use of an emery board

4. Soften the cuticle in warm soapy water and dry it afterwards using a clean towel

5. Apply the cuticle remover and push back the dead cuticle

6. Trim the dead cuticle using the nipper and clean the edges through Orangewood stick

7. Brush the nails in downward movement

8. Apply the cuticle oil or lotion to the hands and then massage hands and arms

9. Remove grease from the nail plate with a towel

10. Apply the first coat or platinum twice on the nails

11. Start making a V-shape by applying color enamel in a slanting position

12. Make a cross diagonal line downward forming a letter V at the base of the nail.

13. Fill other areas with color enamel

14. Apply the top coat

15. Remove all excess polish with Orangewood stick tipped with cotton and dipped into
acetone

To create a great contrasting effect with the base coat, it is best to use bright-colored nail
polish in doing this manicure style.

Other Nail Art Designs

The basic nail or manicure designs mentioned above can be more attractive when added
with either of the following designs

1. Dots and Water Drops

When you've got a French manicure you can add a design to it using a colored polish You
can have the dots or water drops bordered at the lower or upper part of your fingernails
Dots made from silver polish can appear like drops of water thus it can make the design
more attractive and elegant

2. Flowers and Butterflies

French manicure with clear base and white nail tip could look better when added with
designs such as flowers and butterflies These designs are commonly done using fainted
colors like pink lemon yellow, silver, gold, white, and blue

3. Lines and Glitters

Vertical or horizontal lines can also make designs on your manicured nails. These designs
can be made from colored nail polish or glitters for a more prominent look Lines and glitters
are also designed with French manicure This is done by using a glitter nail polish instead of
a common clear polish Lines and glitters are not only limited to vertical and horizontal lines.
Different shapes and designs can also be made from them like stars and hearts