Designation: D4845 − 10´2

Standard Terminology Relating to

Wool1
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D4845; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.

ε1 NOTE—Terms were transferred editorially from subcommittee standards in February 2013.

ε2 NOTE—Section 1 was added and editorial changes were made in September 2013.

1. Referenced Documents D2118 Practice for Assigning a Standard Commercial Mois-

2
ture Content for Wool and its’ Products
1.1 ASTM Standards: D2130 Test Method for Diameter of Wool and Other Animal
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles Fibers by Microprojection
D461 Test Methods for Felt (Withdrawn 2003)3 D2165 Test Method for pH of Aqueous Extracts of Wool and
D519 Test Method for Length of Fiber in Wool Top Similar Animal Fibers
D584 Test Method for Wool Content of Raw Wool— D2252 Specification for Fineness of Types of Alpaca
Laboratory Scale D2462 Test Method for Moisture in Wool by Distillation
D1060 Practice for Core Sampling of Raw Wool in Packages With Toluene
for Determination of Percentage of Clean Wool Fiber D2475 Specification for Felt
Present D2524 Test Method for Breaking Tenacity of Wool Fibers,
D1113 Test Method for Vegetable Matter and Other Alkali- Flat Bundle Method—1⁄8-in. (3.2-mm) Gage Length
Insoluble Impurities in Scoured Wool D2525 Practice for Sampling Wool for Moisture
D1234 Test Method of Sampling and Testing Staple Length D2720 Practice for Calculation of Commercial Weight and
of Grease Wool Yield of Scoured Wool, Top, and Noil for Various Com-
D1282 Test Method for Resistance to Airflow as an Indica- mercial Compositions
tion of Average Fiber Diameter of Wool Top, Card Sliver, D2816 Test Method for Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in
and Scoured Wool Cashmere
D1283 Test Method for Alkali-Solubility of Wools D2817 Specification for Maximum Cashmere Coarse-Hair
D1294 Test Method for Tensile Strength and Breaking Te- Content in Cashmere
nacity of Wool Fiber Bundles 1-in. (25.4-mm) Gage D2968 Test Method for Med and Kemp Fibers in Wool and
Length Other Animal Fibers by Microprojection
D1334 Test Method for Wool Content of Raw Wool— D3991 Specifications for Fineness of Wool or Mohair and
Commercial Scale Assignment of Grade
D1574 Test Method for Extractable Matter in Wool and D3992 Specifications for Fineness of Wool Top or Mohair
Other Animal Fibers Top and Assignment of Grade
D1575 Test Method for Fiber Length of Wool in Scoured D4510 Test Method for Counting Partial Cleavages in Wool
Wool and in Card Sliver and Other Animal Fibers
D1576 Test Method for Moisture in Wool by Oven-Drying D4845 Terminology Relating to Wool
D1770 Test Method for Neps, Vegetable Matter, and Colored D6466 Test Method for Diameter of Wool and Other Animal
Fiber in Wool Top Fibers By Sirolan-Laserscan Fiber Diameter Analyser
D6500 Test Method for Diameter of Wool and Other Animal
Fibers Using an Optical Fiber Diameter Analyser
1
This terminology is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles
and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.13 on Wool and Felt. 2. Terminology
Current edition approved June 1, 2010. Published July 2010. Originally approved
in 1988. Last previous edition approved in 2009 as D4845 – 09. DOI: 10.1520/ acid content, n— of felt, the number of milliequivalents of acid
D4845-10E02. present per unit weight of felt, measured under prescribed
2
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
conditions. D461
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
alkali-solubility, n—in wool, the percent of clean wool that is
the ASTM website.
3
The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on soluble in a specified alkaline solution under controlled
www.astm.org. conditions of temperature and time. D1283

Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States

1
 D4845 − 10´2
alpaca, n—the fleece and fiber produced by the alpaca, an cashmere down, n—those fibers in cashmere hair having
animal of the genus Llama (Lama glama pacus). The fiber is widths of 30 µm or less. D2816, D2817
obtained from several species, namely, Huacaya and Suri.
D2252 cashmere hair, n—the fibers produced by a form of goat
DISCUSSION—Alpaca is normally classified according to type, repre-
(Capra hircus) indigenous to Asia and known as the cash-
senting particular combinations of characteristics appropriate to a mere goat. D2816, D2817
specific use, or descriptive of geographic origin, breed or species of DISCUSSION—Characteristically, cashmere hair consists of fine down
animal, or preparation for market. (undercoat) fibers and coarse (outercoat) fibers.

animal fiber, n—any natural protein-base fiber. clean wool fiber present, n—in raw wool, the mass of wool
D1574, D4510 base present in the raw wool, adjusted to a moisture content
of 12 %, an alcohol-extractable content of 1.5 %, and a
aqueous extract, n—in wool testing, the solution obtained by mineral matter content of 0.5 %. D584, D1060, D1334
digesting a material with water or with a sodium chloride
solution to dissolve soluble materials. D2165 colored fiber, n—in wool top, any fiber the color or shade of
which differs from the normal color or shade of the fiber
average fiber diameter, n—in wool and other animal fibers, mass of the sample. D1770
the average width of a group of fibers when measured on a
projected image. D2130, D2252, D3991, D3992 combing wool, n—wool that is strong and strictly of combing
length, that is, 2 in. (50 mm) or more. D4845
average fiber diameter, n—the arithmetic mean width of a
group of fibers. D6500 commercial composition, n—in wool, the percentages by
DISCUSSION—In wool and other animal fibers, all animal fibers, weight of wool base, moisture, and other nonwool-base
regardless of species, can be measured using the OFDA to determine components in wool to which a specific commercial desig-
average fiber diameter. D6500 nation is applied. (Compare commercial weight.) D2720
black felt, n—those classifications of felt manufactured to commercial designation, n—in wool, a term applied to a lot of
various shades of the color black. D2475 wool in a stated form, and having a specified commercial
breaking tenacity, n—the tenacity corresponding to the break- composition. D2720
ing load. D1294, D2524 commercial moisture content, n—the moisture calculated as a
DISCUSSION—Breaking tenacity is commonly expressed as grams- percentage of the weight of the wool, top, noils, yarn, fabric,
force per tex (gf/tex), grams-force per denier (gf/den), millinewtons per etc., in the “as-is” condition; that is, containing whatever
tex mN/tex), or millinewtons per denier (mN/den). Millinewtons are
numerically equal to grams-force times 9.81.
moisture, oil, grease, or other extraneous matter that may be
present. D2118
burr-wool waste, n—waste removed by the burr guard of cards DISCUSSION—The term “moisture regain” as defined in Terminology
or burr pickers having a very short fiber and full of burrs or D123, leads to certain difficulties in defining the clean wool basis for
seeds. D4845 calculation, which do not occur when the term “moisture content” is
DISCUSSION—The nature of the waste varies according to the wool used. Moisture content can be applied directly to the product in the as-is
from which the burrs are taken. condition while moisture regain cannot.

carbonized and neutralized wool, n—a term descriptive of commercial weight, n—billed weight as determined by a
scoured wool processed to destroy cellulosic impurities by generally accepted method or as agreed to by the purchaser
treating with a mineral acid or an acid salt, drying and and the seller. D2720
baking, crushing, and dusting out the embrittled cellulosic DISCUSSION—For shipments of commercially designated scoured
wool, wool top, or wool noil, the generally accepted commercial weight
matter followed by neutralization of the acidified wool.
is the weight of wool base contained in the shipment as determined by
D2118 definite prescribed methods, plus the weights of moisture and other
components corresponding to the commercial composition of the
carded wool, n—scoured wool which has been processed
commercially designated material. D2720
through a carding machine. D1575
cashmere, n—in roving, yarn, or fabrics, cashmere hair or constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) type tensile testing
products made therewith having a cashmere coarse-hair machine, n—in tensile testing, an apparatus in which the
content not exceeding a specified maximum percentage by pulling clamp moves at a uniform rate, and the force-
length. D2816, D2817 measuring mechanism moves a negligible distance with
increasing force, less than 0.13 mm (0.005 in.).
cashmere coarse-hair, n—those coarse fibers in cashmere hair D1294, D2524
having widths greater than 30 µm. D2816, D2817
constant-rate-of-loading (CRL) type tensile testing
cashmere coarse-hair content, n—the total length of the machine, n—in tensile testing, an apparatus in which the rate
cashmere coarse-hair fibers that are present, expressed as a of increase of the force is uniform with time after the first 3
percentage of the total length of all the cashmere hair fibers; s and the specimen is free to elongate, this elongation being
that is, the percentage by length of cashmere coarse-hair in dependent on the extension characteristics of the specimen at
cashmere hair. D2816, D2817 any applied force. D1294, D2524

2
 D4845 − 10´2
constant-rate-of-traverse (CRT) type tensile testing grade, n—in wool and mohair, a numerical designation used in
machine, n—in tensile testing, an apparatus in which the classifying wool and mohair in their raw, semi-processed,
pulling clamp moves at a uniform rate and the force is and processed forms based on average fiber diameter and
applied through the other clamp, which moves appreciably variation of fiber diameter. D2130, D3991, D3992
to actuate a force-measuring mechanism, producing a rate of DISCUSSION—This specification expresses the variation in fiber diam-
increase of force or extension that is usually not constant and eter by means of the standard deviation of the fiber diameter
is dependent on the extension characteristics of the measurements. D3991, D3992
specimen. D1294, D2524 DISCUSSION—The term “grade” should not be confused with the terms
“quality” and “type.” “Quality” is a term that includes not only fineness
core, n—in sampling fiber packages, the portion of wool or but also characteristics such as length, crimp, strength, elasticity, luster,
other fiber obtained by using a sampling tube. D1060 tactile hand, and color, all of which affect the spinnability of the fiber
and the properties of the resulting yarn and fabric. The Bradford
cortex, n—in mammalian hair fibers, the principal body of the designations, for which no standards exist, use a scale similar to that for
fiber made up of elongated cells. D4510 grade designations (for example: 64s, 56s, etc.) and refer to quality and
not solely to fineness. “Type” is a term designating a particular
cuticle, n—in mammalian hair fibers, the layers of flattened combination of characteristics applicable to a specific use or descriptive
cells enclosing the cortex, which forms an envelope of of geographical origin, breed of sheep, or preparation for market.
overlapping scales surrounding the fiber. D4510 D3991, D3992
diameter, average fiber—See average fiber diameter. grade, n—in wool and mohair, a numerical designation used in
dimensional change in boiling water (felt), n—the change in classification of fibers in their raw, semi-processed, and
length and width with any associated change in thickness processed forms based on average fiber diameter and varia-
produced by immersion in boiling water under specified tion of fiber diameter. D6500
conditions. D461 gray felt, n—a blend of white fibers with naturally colored or
dyed fibers or both and that has an overall gray appearance.
epidermis, n—in mammalian hair fibers, the outside or surface D2475
layer of the fiber consisting of flat, irregular, horny cells or
scales. D4845 grease wool, n—wool taken from the living sheep and which
has not been commercially scoured.
extractable matter, n—nonfibrous material in or on a textile, D1234, D1574, D1576, D2462
not including water, which is removable by a specified
solvent or solvents as directed in a specified procedure. hair, n—natural animal fiber other than sheep’s wool or silk.
D461, D1574 D4845
DISCUSSION—It is recognized that this definition implies a distinction
DISCUSSION—Extractable matter does not include moisture but (1) is
between sheep’s wool and the covering of other animals, notwithstand-
non-fibrous material, (2) is usually oily, waxy, or resinous in nature, and
ing similarity in their fiber characteristics. Thus the crimped form and
(3) may include protein, particularly if the extracting solvent is ethyl
the scaly structure are not confined to sheep’s wool. It seems desirable
alcohol or contains ethyl alcohol.
in the textile trade, however, to avoid ambiguity by confining the term
felt, n—a textile structure characterized by interlocking and wool to the covering of sheep and to have available a general term for
other fibers of animal origin. Normally the less widely used fibers are
consolidation of its constituent fibers achieved by the inter- known by name, for example, alpaca, mohair, etc., but collectively they
action of a suitable combination of mechanical energy, are classed as hairs.
chemical action, moisture, and heat but without the use of
weaving, knitting, stitching, thermal bonding, or adhesives. kemp fiber, n—a medullated animal fiber in which the diam-
D2475 eter of the medulla is 60 %, or more, of the diameter of the
DISCUSSION—In practice, light needling may be used to supplement
fiber. D2968
the ability of the fibers to interlock and consolidate. laboratory sample, n—a portion of material taken to represent
the lot sample, or the original material, and used in the
fineness, n—of textile fibers, a relative measure of size,
laboratory as a source of test specimens. D1770, D2525
diameter, linear density or mass per unit length expressed in
a variety of units. D2252, D3991, D3992 laboratory sample, n—in wool top, the portions drawn from
DISCUSSION—The fineness of alpaca, wool, and other animal fibers is the lot in accordance with the described procedure. D1770
expressed as the average fiber width or average fiber diameter in lot, n—in acceptance sampling, that part of a consignment or
micrometers (µm).
shipment consisting of a material from one production lot.
flame resistance, n—the property of a material whereby D1770, D2525
flaming combustion is prevented, terminated, or inhibited lot, n—in wool, top, the entire quantity, not exceeding 20 000
following application of a flaming or nonflaming source of lb (9100 kg) of a single combing, that comprises a single unit
ignition, with or without subsequent removal of the ignition for which a test for neps, vegetable matter or colored fiber,
source. D461 or all three combined is desired. D1770
gage length, n— in tensile testing, the length of a specimen med fiber, n—a medullated animal fiber in which the diameter
measured between the points of attachment to clamps while of the medulla is less than 60 % of the diameter of the fiber.
under uniform tension. D1294, D2524 D2968

3
 D4845 − 10´2
medulla, n—in mammalian hair fibers, the more or less substances other than vegetable matter base, such as skin,
continuous cellular marrow inside the cortical layer in most cotton or other fibers, paper, string, tag (dung) pieces, paint
medium and coarse fibers. D2968 pieces, etc. D584, D1113, D1334
medullated fiber, n—an animal fiber that in its original state orthopedic and surgical felt, n—a white, soft, low density,
includes a medulla. D2968 highly resilient felt. D2475
DISCUSSION—Such felts are commonly used in splint pads, abdominal
merino, adj—from pure-bred merino sheep. D4845 supports, orthopedic devices, and fracture cast linings as well as other
DISCUSSION—Merino wool usually has a fiber diameter of 24 µm or
medical applications.
less.
mohair, n—the hair of the Angora goat, Capra species. D3991, oven-dried, adj—the condition of a material that has been
D3992 heated under prescribed conditions of temperature and
humidity until there is no further significant change in its
moisture content, n—the amount of moisture in a material mass. D584, D1113, D1334, D1576, D2462, D2720
determined under prescribed conditions and expressed as a DISCUSSION—An oven-dried material will retain a small amount of
percentage of the mass of the moist material, that is, the moisture which is dependent on the temperature and relative humidity
original mass comprising the dried substance plus any of the atmosphere in contact with the material during the drying
moisture present. D1576, D2462 process. An oven-dry material will only be moisture-free when the air
supplied to the drying oven has been previously desiccated. The term
DISCUSSION—The term “mass” is the correct designation for the
“mass” in the above definition is the correct designation for what is
property commonly designated as “weight.” A slight amount of residual
commonly designated “weight.”
moisture may not be removed from a specimen subjected to oven
drying because of the relative humidity of the ambient air. The amount DISCUSSION—As the term “oven-dried” is used in this recommended
of moisture retained by a specimen may be estimated from published practice, the prescribed conditions are heating to 105 6 2°C in a
data.4 There may also be a slight additional loss in mass caused by the forced-draft oven supplied with air from an atmosphere having a
evaporation of volatile material other than water, the amount depending relative humidity of 65 6 2 % at a temperature of 20 6 2°C. A
on the characteristics of any added oils or emulsions. temperature of 20 6 2°C is used in this recommended practice instead
moisture-free, adj—the condition of a material that has been of 21.1 6 1°C because international testing is frequently involved.
exposed in an atmosphere of desiccated air until there is no D2720
further significant change in its mass. D1576, D2462 papermaker’s felt, n—a fabric, made from wool or man-made
DISCUSSION—Heating the material and the desiccated air to tempera-
fibers or mixtures of both, fabricated as an endless belt for
tures as high as 110°C increases the rate of moisture loss but does not
change the final equilibrium mass of the moisture-free material. use on a paper making machine. (See also felt and needled
felt.) D2475
moisture regain, n—the amount of moisture in a material DISCUSSION—Papermaker’s felt received its name because it replaced
determined under prescribed conditions and expressed as a the sheets of felt used in squeezing the water from newly formed,
percentage of the mass of the moisture-free material. D1576, manually made sheets of paper. Some finished papermaker’s felts have
D2462 matted surfaces similar to wool felts.

natural fiber, n—a class name for various genera of fibers partial cleavage, n—in textiles, a transverse gouge, cut or
(including filaments) of (1) animal, (2) mineral, or (3) other cross-wise rent in the fiber. Clearly penetrating at least
vegetable origin. D4845 the cuticle of the fiber. D4510
DISCUSSION—Examples—(1) Silk and wool, (2) asbestos, (3) cotton,
flax, jute, ramie.
part wool felt, n—a felt composed of any one of, or a
combination of, new and recycled wool fibers mixed with
needled felt, n—a textile structure composed entirely of fibers one or more man-made fibers, vegetable fibers, or animal
physically interlocked and reoriented through the action of fibers other than wool. D461, D2475
felting needles. D2475
pH, n—in common usage, a measure of acidity or alkalinity of
nep, n—one or more fibers occurring in a tangled and unorga- a solution, on a logarithmic scale, with neutrality represented
nized mass. D1770 by a value of seven, with increasing acidity represented by
DISCUSSION—For the purpose of this test method, the mass of decreasingly smaller values, and with increasing alkalinity
unorganized fibers retains its identity upon removal from a fibrous
represented by increasingly larger values. D2165, D461
strand. D1770
DISCUSSION—For a technical discussion of pH, including such phe-
noil, n—the short fibers removed in combing; applied particu- nomena as the effect of temperature on pH, see any recognized
larly to wool, but also to other fibers such as cotton, silk, and chemistry text. The pH of textiles is generally determined on aqueous
rayon. D4845 extracts of the textile being tested. D2165, D461

other alkali-insoluble impurities, n—in scoured wool, oven- pulled wool, n—wool taken from the pelt of a slaughtered
dried, ash-free, alcohol-extractives-free, alkali-insoluble sheep and which has not been commercially scoured. Syn.
slipe wool and skin wool. D1576, D2462

4
raw wool, n—wool or hair of the sheep in the grease, pulled,
Toner, R. K., Bowen, C. F., and Whitwell, J. C., “Equilibrium Moisture
Relations for Textile Fibers,” Textile Research Journal, Vol 17, January 1947, pp. or scoured state. (See also scoured wool.) D584, D1060,
7–18. D1334, D1576, D2462

4
 D4845 − 10´2
recycled wool, n—as defined in the Wool Products Labeling specific gravity, n—of felt, the relative mass per unit volume of
Act as amended in 1980, “the resulting fiber when wool has felt expressed as a percentage of the mass per unit volume of
been woven or felted into a wool product which, without water. D2475
ever having been utilized in any way by the ultimate
consumer, subsequently has been made into a fibrous state, specimen, n—a specific portion of a material or a laboratory
or the resulting fiber when wool or reprocessed wool has sample upon which a test is performed or which is selected
been spun, woven, knitted, or felted into a wool product for that purpose. D2525
which, after having been used in any way by the ultimate splitting resistance, n—of felt, the force required to overcome
consumer, subsequently has been made into a fibrous state.” the interfacial strength of a material and specifically to
D1294, D1574, D1576, D2475, D2462 separate a felt into two layers (of approximately equal
DISCUSSION—In the amended Act of 1980, the term “recycled wool”
thickness). D461
replaced the terms “reprocessed wool” and “reused wool.”

roping, n—a term used for roving in the woolen system of staple, n—in grease wool, a tuft or lock of fibers which
spinning. D4845 naturally cling together, as found in a fleece. D1234

sample, n—(1) a portion of a lot of material which is taken for staple length, n—in grease wool, the length of a staple
testing or record purposes. (2) the group of specimens used, obtained by measuring the natural staple without stretching
or observations made, which provide information that can be or disturbing the crimp of the fibers. D1234
used for making statistical inferences about the population supported needled felt, n—a needled felt that is composed
from which they were drawn. D2525 entirely of fibers physically interlocked and reoriented in
sampling unit, n—in wool, a portion of material that is taken combination with interlay, scrim, or foundation of knitted,
at one time from one physical location and that is combined stitched, bonded, or extruded structure. D461, D2475
with similar portions to make up the laboratory sample.
tenacity, n—the tensile stress expressed as force per unit linear
D2525
DISCUSSION—A sampling unit may or may not have the same physical
density of the unstrained specimen. D1294
size as a specimen. Examples of sampling units include: (1) for bulk
tenacity, n—in a tensile test, the force exerted on the specimen
materials seen as scoured wool, a handful of wool conforming to a
stated mass range, (2) for cored material, a minimum mass of material based on the linear density of the unstrained specimen.
collected by one insertion of a coring tool, (3) for sliver, a stated length D2524
of material, and (4) a single package, such as a ball of top. DISCUSSION—In textiles, tenacity is considered a property of fibers
and yarns, and tensile strain is the complimentary property of fabrics.
scoured wool, n—wool from which the bulk of impurities has In direct yarn numbering systems, tenacity is force divided by linear
been removed by an aqueous or solvent washing process. density. In indirect yarn numbering systems, tenacity is force times the
D1575, D1576, D2462 reciprocal linear density.
DISCUSSION—Although it is no longer in its original raw state,
scoured wool is generally accepted as raw wool. D1576, D2462 tensile strength, n—the strength of a material under tension as
distinct from compression, torsion, or shear.
shrinkage, n—a decrease in one or more dimensions of an DISCUSSION—Technically, strength is a characteristic that is expressed
object or material. D461 in terms of force. Historically, however, tensile strength has been
commonly expressed in terms of force per unit base, for example, the
slipe wool—See pulled, wool. cross-sectional area of the unstrained material. Some common units are
skin wool—See pulled, wool. newtons per square metre (N/m2) and pounds-force per square inch
sliver, n—a continuous strand of loosely assembled fibers that (psi).
is approximately uniform in cross-sectional area and without
test specimen, n—for wool top, a length of specified mass
twist. D1282
taken at random from a length of wool top selected as a
snippet, n—a wool or other animal fiber which has been cut to laboratory sample. D1770
a specified length. D6466, D6500
top, n—in wool, a continuous untwisted strand of wool fibers
specialty felt, n—one of a number of special purpose felt from which the shorter fibers or noils have been removed by
structures available for, but not limited to, a specific end-use combing. D519, D1282, D1770, D3992
application. D2475
DISCUSSION—Orthopedic and surgical felts are examples of specialty unsupported needled felt, n—a needled felt that is composed
felts. Additional information on these types is available in NTA entirely of fibers physically interlocked and reoriented with,
Specifications FS14-68/71.5 and of themselves without an interlay, scrim, or foundation
of knitted, stitched, bonded, or extruded structure.
specific area, n—of wool, the ratio of the fiber surface to fiber
D461, D2475
volume. D1282
vegetable matter, n—in wool top, the pieces of burrs, seeds,
shive, leaves, twigs, and grasses which have escaped re-
5
Available from Northern Textile Association, 230 Congress St., Boston, MA moval in processing, also foreign vegetable fibers such as
02110. hemp, sisal, etc., if present. D1770

5
 D4845 − 10´2
vegetable matter base, n—in raw wool, oven-dried scoured hair of the camel, alpaca, llama, and vicuna) which has never been
burrs, seeds, twigs, leaves, and grasses, free of mineral reclaimed form any woven or felted wool product.” D2524
matter and alcohol-extractable matter. wool, n—as defined in the Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939,
D584, D1113, D1334, D2720 “the fiber from the fleece of the sheep or lamb, or hair of the
vegetable matter present, n—in raw wool, the weight of Angora goat or Cashmere goat (and may include the so
vegetable matter base present in the raw wool, adjusted to a called specialty fibers from the hair of the camel, alpaca,
moisture content of 12 %, an alcohol-extractives content of llama, and vicuna) which has never been reclaimed from any
1.5 %, and a mineral matter content of 0.5 %. woven or felted wool product. D1576, D2462
D584, D1334 wool base, n—oven-dried scoured wool free of alcohol-
virgin wool, n— as defined in the Wool Products Labeling Act, extractable matter, mineral matter, vegetable matter, and all
“the terms ’virgin’ or ’new’ as descriptive of a wool product, impurities. D584, D1334, D2720
or any fiber or part thereof, shall not be used when the wool content, n—the quantity of new and recycled wool, as
product or part so described is not composed wholly of new defined in the Wool Products Labeling Act, which is deter-
or virgin fiber which has never been reclaimed from any mined by chemical analysis. D2475
spun, woven, knitted, felted, braided, bonded, or otherwise DISCUSSION—Felt 34R1, as an example, which theoretically is made
manufactured or used product.” D1576, D2462 from 100 % wool fiber, may contain incidental amounts of other natural
or man-made fibers, residual wool fats and oils, and processing soaps
water retained, n—in textiles, the amount of water absorbed which may reduce the actual wool content on the chemical analysis
by the fibers, adsorbed on the surface of the fibers, and held basis to 95 %.
within the voids of the fabric after immersion, measured wool felt, n—a felt composed wholly of any one of or a
under specified conditions. D461 combination of new or recycled wool fibers.
white wool, n—wool having shade variations from true white D461, D2475
to creamy white but free of pigmented, dyed, or otherwise wool, grease—See grease wool.
colored wools. D2475 wool, new—See wool, virgin.
DISCUSSION—The shade variations in white wool can be caused by wool, raw—See raw wool.
range conditions including forage, soil, rain, or lack thereof as well as wool, recycled—See recycled wool.
the health of the animal.
wool, reprocessed—See recycled wool.
wool, n—the fibrous covering of the sheep, Ovis species. wool, reused—See recycled wool.
D1282, D1283, D1294, D1574, D1575, D1576, D2118, woolen yarn, n—yarn spun from wool fibers which have been
D2462, D2475, D2524, D2968, D3991, D3992 carded but not combed or gilled. D4845
DISCUSSION— worsted-spun, adj—of, or pertaining to, materials produced by
General, for the purposes of these standards, wool is used in the generic
sense as defined in the Wool Products labeling Act of 1939 and
the worsted system of yarn spinning as distinct from
amended Act of 1980. materials made by the woolen system of spinning. D4845
Specific, as defined in the Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939, “the worsted yarn, n—yarn spun from wool fibers which have been
fiber from the fleece of the sheep or lamb, or hair of the Angora goat or
Cashmere goat (and may include the so called specialty fibers from the
carded, and either gilled or combed, or both. D4845
hair of the camel, alpaca, llama, and vicuna) which has never been yield, n—in raw wool, the combined weight (mass) of clean
reclaimed from any woven or felted wool product”. wool fiber present and vegetable matter present, as a
DISCUSSION—For the purposes of this method, the word wool is used percentage of the raw wool weight. D584
in the generic sense, and includes both wool as defined in the Wool
yield, n—of wool, the percentage of a designated commercial
Products Labeling Act of 1939 as well as recycled wool as defined in
composition obtained by processing a lot of raw wool. (See
the amended Act of 1980. D1576, D2462
also commercial composition.) D2720
DISCUSSION—For the purposes of this method, the word wool is used
in the generic sense, and includes reprocessed and reused wool as well
zephyr yarn, n—a variety of soft worsted yarn characterized
as wool as defined in the Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939: “the fiber by a low twist and spun from wool which is as fine or finer
from the fleece of the sheep or lamb, or hair of the Angora goat or in average diameter with U.S. Standard 64’s grade tops.
Cashmere goat (and may include the so called specialty fibers from the D4845

6
 D4845 − 10´2
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