a

MODEL 645
 You are now the owner of a new zigzag sewing
machine, the most versatile type of its kind you
can
possess.
Buttonholes, monogramming, stretch stitching,
overcasting and creative embroidery are done with
ease
and speed.
To aid you in obtaining the greatest perform
ance
from your new WHITE,this book on its care
and use
has been written for you. Read the
instructions
carefully, as a thorough understanding of your
machine
will reward you with many hours of
trouble free.
creative sewing.
Time-saving attachments such as rufflers,
binders,
edgestitchers, hemmers and others to complement - -

the accessories furnished with your WHITE

are
available from the store where you purchased
your
machine.

WHITE SEWING MACHINE COMPANY

Cleveland, Ohio 44111

WHITE CONSOLIDATED INDUSTRIES, LTD.

Scarborough, Ontario, Canada
 CONTENTS
PAGE
SECTION;IPRE1JMINARY INFORMATION
Parts Indentitication
Principle Parts 4
Accessories 6
Installing Machine Head onto portable case
or cabinet and Connecting Machine 7

selection ot Needles and I hreads 8

Needle-Thread-Fabric-Stitching Guide 9
Changing Needle 10
Changing Needle Plate 10
Selection of Presser Foot ii
Winding Bobbin 12
Upper Threading 13
Threading Bobbin Case 14
Placing Bobbin Case in Shuttle 14
SECTION III...GETflNG TO KNOW YOUR MACHINE - -:
Selection of Stitch
Stitch Length Control 15
Push Reverse Button 15
Stitch Width Control 16
Relating Stitch Length to Stitch Width 16
Stretch Stitch Lever 17
Stitch Pattern Selector 17
Buttonhole Reverse Stitch Tuner 18
Controls
Adjusting Thread Tensions 18
Adjusting Pressure on Fabric and Feed Dog Height 19
Sewing Light 20

Preparing to Sew 21
Guiding Fabric 21
Turning Corners 21
Curveçl Seams 22
Sewing Across Heavy Seams 22
Removing the Work 22
SEC11ON.V STITcHINGS -.: -
:
Straight Stitch
Seams 23
Basting/Topstitching 23
Darning 23
Cording/Sewing on Zipper 24
Quilting 24
Zigzag Stitch
Overcasting 25

2
 PAGE
Sewing Knits 25
Sewing on Buttons 25
With a Thread Shank 26
Satin Stitching 26
Built-in Utility Stitches 27
Twin Needle Sewing 27
Freehand Monogramming 28
Applique/Patching 28
Gathering Over a Cord 29
Lace Application 29
Flutter Hem 29
Sewing Tips 30
Shaping Dart in Interfacings 30
Multiple Zigzag Stitch 30
Buttonholes
Preparation 31
Built-In Buttonhole 32
Corded Buttonhole 33
Blind Hem Stitch 34
Straight Stretch Stitch 35
Topstitching 35
Ultra-Stretch Stitch
Rick-Rack Stretch 35
Pine-Leaf Stretch
Special Ultra-Stretches 35
Elastic Application
36
Overlock Application
37
SECTION VI CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF YOUR MACHINE -

Oiling Machine 38
Cleaning and Oiling Shuttle Area 39
Adjusting Bobbin Winder 40
Adjusting and Changing Motor Belt 40
Problem and Remedies 41

1 iiei’. i r w•t’I’lI i.. .

Attachment Foot 43
Edgestitcher 43
Binder 44
Folded Binding 44
Two-Tone Binding 44
Hand-Cut Bias Binding 44
The Set of Hemmers 45
Ruffler 46
Narrow Hemmer 47
Lace Trimmed Hems 48
Lace Edge with Invisible Stitching 48
French Seam 48
Hemming Across A Seam 48
3.
I
mm
-02,

x1-n
H—
I-
H
0
2

-n
C, 0
2
-1
oz
m

U
()
 1.Take-up Allways at its highest position when beginning or end
ing sewing.
2. Pressure Control For regulating the pressure on fabric.
3. Top Thread Guides For leading thread to Tension Control for sewing.
4. Stitch Pattern Selector For selecting the stitch pattern and buttonholing steps.
U 5. Stretch Stitch Control For changing ordinary stitch to triple back-and forth
stitch (stretch stitch>.
6. Stretch Stitch Pattern Cross reference by color between ordinary stitch
Marking patterns and stretch stitch patterns performed with
stretch stitch control at “STRETCH STITCH”.
7. Stitch Width Control For setting stitch width.
8. Bobbin Winder For winding thread on bobbin.
9. Hand Wheel For the control of the up and .down movement of the
;needle. -

10. Stitch Length Control For selecting stitch length between no feeding and max
to about 6 stitches per inch
11. Reverse Push Button For easy back-tacking to lock thread ends by pushing the
button.
12. Feed Dog Height For regulating feed dog height for various materials and
Control types of sewing.
13. Needle Plate With guide lines for sewing accuracy. -

14. Presser Foot For holding fabric when sewing.

15. Feed Dog Diamond point to move fabric accurately.
16. Slide Plate For opening an access to bobbin and bobbin case.
17. Thumb Screw For tightening presser foot in place on presser bar.
-

18. Check Spring For automatic precise adjustment of flow of upper

thread.
19. Light Switch For turning on or off the light inside face cover.
20. Face Plate Hinge-open type for replacement of light bulb and
oiling.
21. Tension Dial For regulating the amount of tension on upper thread.
22. Needle Clamp For holding needle in place in the slot of needle bar.
23. Spool Pins For holding spools, preventing over-spin of spools.
24. Buttonhole Reverse For adjustment for the buttonhole reverse stitch density.
Stitch Tuner
25. Bobbin Winder For providing proper tension on thread when bobbin
Tension Disc winding.
26. Presser Foot Lever For lifting or lowering presser bar and presser foot.
27. Thread Cutter For convenience to cut both upper and lower threads
after sewing.
28. Head Hinge Holes For installation of machine head onto portable case or
cabinet.
29. Clutch-nut For the releasing movement of the needle bar in order
to wind bobbin.
5
 ACCESSOR I ES
set of accessories
Your new White sewing machine comes equipped with the following
to make your sewing easier.

METAL BOBBINS STRAIGHT STITCH FOOT& NEEDLE PLATE

For straight stitch

For yàur spare bob- ing on very sheer
bins wound with soft or very light
various color threads weight stretchy ma
terials where extra
-

control is needed.

A PACK OF NEEDLES BUTTON FOOT

For spares Regular

assortment of sizes For holding buttons
#11. #14 and #16 in place for stitch
regular needles and - -
ing.
ball point

SPOOL CUSHIONS BUTTONHOLE FOOT

Place two te)t pooI Use for buttonhol

Cushions on spool ing. Do not use
pins to reduce when nprmal sew
sound of spool spin irig.
ring and result best
stitching.

QUILTING GUIDE
SCREW DRIVERS

Small one for use on

bobbin thread ten Helps make parallel
sion adjustment. rows of stitching.
Large one for uSe on
thumb screw, needle
clamp, etc.

CORDING AND ZIPPER FOOT

OILER

For stitching very

Containing machine close to the edge
oil, use as oiler. of a cord or zipper.

CLOTH GUIDE WITH SCREW TWIN NEEDLE

For twin parallel

Aid in creating
-

straight seams.
sewing.

6
 7*.

INSTALLING MAC
HINE HEAD ONTO
OR CABINET-AND PORTABLE CASE
CONNECTING MAC
HINE

Loosen both head hin

ge set screws
on the back of mac
hineed plate
until head hinge hol
es are clear.
Tilt head hinge pins
up and back
as far as they will go.
Carefully slip machi
ne head onto
hinges — making sure the
head
hinge pins are insert
ed as far as
they can go into hea
d hinge holes.
Allow machine hea
d to rest in its
tilted back position.
Tighten both set scr
ews securely
with screwdriver.
Plug electrical leads
from machine
head into sockets
located inside
cabinet or portable
case. Cord
identified with ‘m
otor” tag must
be plugged into
socket marked
“motor”. Untagged
cord goes to•
“light” socket.
Insert plug into a
wall outlet of
110—115 Volts.
(_Q_

7
 — I I

SELECTION OF NEEDLES AND THREADS

The needle and thread you choose depends

upon the fabric you are stitching. The correct
selection of needle and thread is very important
to avoid damaging the fabrics of light weight,
or tightly woven fabrics, and to prevent skip
ped stitches when sewing on very sheer or
stretchy fabrics or needle breakage when stitch
ing heavy or stiff fabrics. For best results, sewing
machine needles should be replaced when they
become even slightly dull or bent or at the com
pletion of every other garment.

A regular needle is suggested for use with

woven fabrics. Needles, style 15 x 1, of the
range in size from 8 to 20 are used on this
machine. The lower number indicates the finer
needle. The most commonly used sizes are 11
and 14.
BALL POINT
NEEDLE
A ball point needle is recommended for use
with tricots, jerseys, lingeries and power nets.
Unlike sharp pointed needles, which pierce
fibers of knit fabrics destroying elasticity,the
ball point needle s ips between fibers without
1
damage to fabric and skipped stitches.

A wedge point needle is recommended for use

with leather and leather-look vinyls. A wedge
cutting point pierces leather more easily than
ordinary sewing machine needles, resulting in
more satisfactory stitching.

Although it is recommended to use a ball point

needle for knit fabrics, when sewing on very
stretchy fabrics of knits,the placement of a thin
paper below the fabric and the use of a finer
needle are suggested to prevent skip stitches.

Always use the same type and size of thread

in both needle and bobbin. Use good WEDGE POINT
NEEDLE
quality thread without knots for best stitches.
8
 NEEDLE — THREAD— FABRIC — STITCHiNG GUIDE

Machine SynThetic:
Fabric -
Stitching
‘Per inch

Extremely heavy 6
tarpaulin, sacking, 18 to Heavy Duty
canvas, duck, etc. 8

Heavy upholstery 8
fabric, ticking, 18 to Heavy Duty
denim, leatherette. 10

Medium heavy drapery 10

fabric, velveteen, 16 to Heavy Duty
jiting, felt, terry, etc. 12

Medium broadcloth,
12
percale, gingham, linen, 14 to 50 0
chintz, taffeta, sheer 14
wool, shantung, etc.

Sheer voile, lawn, 14

to
dimity, crepe,
11 16 50 0
handkerchief linen,
(plastic film)
Plastic film, etc.
8tolO
Very sheer chiffon,
batiste, lace, organdy, 9 to 60 0
nylon net, marquisette, etc. 20

9
 CHANGING NEEDLE

Always change the needle after every

other garment especially when sewing on
polyester and nylon fabrics which dull
needles much faster. When needles are
dull or bent, they damage both your
fabric and the machine. A general rule
when placing sewing machine needles is
that the flat side of the needle is placed.
to the back of the machine, when the
bobbin is put in from the front. If the
needle is inserted incorrectly, the stitches
will not form.

To change the needle

1. Raise the needle bar to its highest
position by turning the hand wheel
toward you.
2. Loosen needle clamp to remove the
needle.
3. Place needle (flat side to the back and
long groove, to thefront)in the needle
clamp and push it upward as far as it
will go, tighten needle clamp.
4. After changing the needle, make one
complete turn of the hand wheel by
hand to be sure the needle is clearing
the needle plate. /

CHANGING NEEDLE PLATE

Although an all-purpose, utility needle
plate is fixed on your machine, for
straight sewing on fine fabric or soft or
very stretchy fabric, you may want to use
the straight stitch needle plate together
with the straight stitch foot, both of
which are included in your accessory box. ‘C i:i
To change the needle plate, simply slide
the slide plate as far forward as possible..
Remove the two screws holding the
plate in place. Lift the needle plate and
replace.
The needle plate is removed for cleaning
the lint which may pile up between
STRAIGHT STITCH UTI LITY
needle plate and feed dogs. NEEDLE PLATE NEEDLE PLATE
10
 SELECTION OF PRESSER FOOT

For most ordinary sewing the origi

nal all-purpose foot can be used. How
s recommended to use the following ever, it
special feet in your accessory box when
you want a better stitching result. ever

Straight Stitch Foot

This has only a narrow hole
to accom
modate only straight stitching
. It may be
used on sheer or soft fabrics
for more
control. When using this foot,
the Stitch
Width should be “0” to avoi
d hitting the
foot and breaking the needle.

ButtonhoLe Foot
This foot has a groove undernea
th, to
allow the narrow satin stitch
or button
hole to form evenly. However
, if skip-
stitch occurs on sheer fabrics
with this
foot, it may be necessary to
use thin
paper underneath.

Cording or Zipper Foot, and

Button Foot
Use for sewing very close to the edge
of a
cord or zipperS and sewing on butto
ns
respectively.

CHANGING FOOT
Use the large screwdriver to loosen
thumb
screw. Turn the screw backward
until the
foot becomes loose. Then, lift
up on
presser foot lever until it is in its
highest
1;- position in order to remove
the foot.
Replace with desired foot and
tighten
LOOSEN thumb screw securely.
 _

WINDING BOBBIN

Disengage the hand wheel (1) from

the stitching mechanism by turning
the clutch nut (2) toward you or
counter-clockwise.
‘A
Place a spool of thread on one of
the spool pins and lead thread
through the rear Top Thread Guide
(3) after winding around Bobbin,
Winder Tension Disc.
Run the end of thread through a
hole in the bobbin edge and place
bobbin on spindle of bobbin winder
(4) fitting the notch on bobbin over
small spring on spindle.
- _z_
Push bobbin winder latch (4), and
hold the thread erd loosely then
start machine slowly, and bobbin
winder latch will be released to
stop winding when bobbin is full.
Turn clutch nut away from you F

until sewing mechanism is again

engaged so that needle moves when
you turn the hand wheel.
Break off loose thread end used to
start the winding and cut other
thread end. Then remove bobbin
from bobbin winder.
UPPER THREADING 1. Turn the hand wheel toward
you to raise the take-up lever
to its highest position.
r-—- -.- -----
2. Place a spool of thread on the
.: spool pin.
3. Lead the thread through the
top thread guides.
4. Down and between the tension

ZAO:
discs, from right to left.
5. Draw the thread up through the
check-spring and with a slight
tug into the hook.
6. Up and through the eye of take-
up lever from right to left.
7. Lead thread down through the
thread guide at the bottom of
the threading slot, then, through
the needle bar thread guide from
the back.
8. Thread the needle FROM
FRONT TO BACK, drawing it
through about 3 or 4 inches.
Hold the end of the upper
thread loosely and turn the
hand wheel toward you until
the needle goes all the way
down and comes back up. A
thread loop will form over the
upper thread which then can be
pulled out straight. Place both
thread ends under presser foot
and draw toward the back of
the machine, leaving both
threds three or four inches
long.

In case of twin needle sewing,

place two spools of thread,
matching or contrasting in color,
one on each spool pin, lead both
threads through top thread guides,
bring threads.down and pass one
thread between the back discs and
the other between the front discs,
then treat both thread as one until
threading each thread through
each needle eye of twin needle.
13

9
 THREADING BOBBIN CASE

1. Hold bobbin case be

tweeri thumb and fore
finger of left hand, so
that the slot in the edge
of the bobbin case is on
top. Take the bobbin
between thumb and f ore-
finger of right hand so
that the thread on top
leads from left to right
2. Insert bobbin into bob
bin case, pull the thread
into the slot of the
bobbin case and draw it
under tension spring and \i U
into the fork-shaped
opening of the spring.

TENSION SPRING

PLACING BOBBIN CASE IN SHUTTLE

Raise needle bar to its highest position, and slide plate
forward. Hold the bobbin case latch (D) between the
thumb and forefinger of the left hand, with at least three
inches of thread running from the top of the bobbin case
to the right. Insert and center the bobbin case on the
stud of the shuttle body (C). Be sure the bobbin case
finger (E), is opposite the shuttle race notch (A). Press
the bobbin case (B) into the shuttle as far as possible
until the latch catches on the center post of the shuttle.
Then release the bobbin case latch (D). Press the bobbin
case again after the latch has been released to make sure
the bobbin case is locked securely in place. Close the
slide plate.

14
 llU Ill rGErflNG ôiCNóii
SELECTION OF STITCH:

STITCH LENGTH CONTROL

The stitch length control controls the forward feeding of
the fabric in ordinary sewing.
At 0, the fabric does not feed at all. With the
control
around the red bar mark for buttonhole, the
shortest
stitch is available. At 5 is the longest— about 6 stitches
per inch on ordinary’fabrics — but the control may be
set at any desired spot between 0 and 5 for variety
a of
length, except when stretch stitching triple
backand
forth stitching), the control should be always
at 5. Turn
the control to the right to shorten and to the
left to
lengthen the stitch.

The stitch length number you choose is indicated by

the
pointer above the control.
The stitch length in stretch stitching triple back-and-
forth stitching) is fixed about 3/64 inch of trouble
-free
stretch stitch length on most kinds of fabrics with
stretch stitch control at “STRETCH STITCH” and the
stitch length control at “5”.

PUSH REVERSE BUTTON

When you wish to sew backward to tie the threads
at the beginning or end of a seam
in ordinary sewing, press the Reverse Push
Button as far as it will go, so that your
machine sews in reverse at approximately
the same stitch length as forward stitch
length. The machine will sew backward as long
as the button is held in.

Cross reference table between numeral on the contro

l and number of actual stitches
per inch

Numeral on the control

0 1 2 3 4 5
Number of stitches per inch (approx.) No Feeding 30 25 15 8 6

15
 STITCH WIDTH CONTROL
This control controls the side sewing of the needle for various width of stitches. At 0,
the straight stitch line results in ordinary sewing. Also, the widest special stitch
patterns as per those shown on the stitch pattern selector are made with this control at
5.
The narrow special stitch patterns including buttonhole are made with this control at
I
the less number, and with this control at 0, only straight sewing is made regardless the
selection of stitch patterns.
With the control at any other point than ‘O”, ordinary straight stitch varies to zigzag
stitches. At 1, the needle takes a narrow swing resulting in narrow column of stitching
and, at 5, the needle takes a large swing resulting in a wide column of stitches.
In case of twin needle sewing, this
control should be set in the range of red . 7
bar or less than Number 3 otherwise .. ...

needle hits needle plate

RELATING STITCH LENGTH TO

STITCH WIDTH

[:1
When the stitch width control is set at
one particular width (such as 5), the
stitch length control will now control how
close those stitches come together. At
length 0, the fabric does not move,
*.
resulting in a bar of stitches formed one
on top of the other, as is used in button
sewing. At red bar mark or near 0, the
feed pulls the fabric through slowly,
resulting in a dense column of stitches
Wo 1 2
called a satin stitch. At length 5, a very
long open zigzag results.
L2)2 272’

vv
L
.11,11. 1,11:1
4 5 5 5
2)2)4’O:j’’i..2
5 5 5
3...4 .5
5

16
 STRETCH STITCH LEVER
Selection between ordinary stitching and triple auto
matic backand4orth stitching called stretch stitch is
made by the stretch stitch lever. With the lever up at
“REGULAR STITCH” position, ordinary sewing is
performed.With the lever down at “STRETCH STITCH”
position, your machine automatically performs the
stretch stitch with the repetition of two forward and one
backward stitch combination.
A reinforced seam of stretch stitch that will stretch
considerably more than the fabric used is the most
wanted feature in a sewing machine today.
Its uses are almost unlimited and the more you use
your machine the more it wilt become apparent to
you.
When stretch stitching, the stitch length control should
be always set at 5.

STITCH PATTERN SELECTOR

In addition to ordinary straight and zigzag stitches, three consecutive buttonholing-
step stitches, 3 different kinds of utility forward stitches, 3 special stretch stitches
and straight and Rick-Rack stretches as shown on the Stretch Stitch Patterns
Marking can be selected by this selector. This selector can be turned only to the
right, except for it’s buttonhole step selection range where the selector can be turned
to both directions.
For regular stitch patterns, set the pattern selector at the selected pattern position
and the stretch stitch lever at “REGULAR STITCH”.
The regular stitch patterns selected by the selector are turned to the stretch stitch
patterns shown in same color as those of regular stitch patterns on the selector
respectively, simply by setting stretch stitch lever at “STRETCH STITCH”.
All regular stitches are made by forward sewing at an optional forward stitch length
selected by stitch length control. All stretch stitches are made at the fixed stretch
stitch length with the stitch length control
at 5 and the stretch stitch lever at
“STRETCH STITCH”. To balance the left
side of the buttonhole, first step, with the
right side of the buttonhole, third step,
‘ adjust the buttonhole reverse stitch tuner.
- With the selector at buttonhole step (2—4),
your machine does not feed fabric for
bartacking the buttonhole ends and, with
it at buttonhole step (3), it feeds fabric in
-
reverse to sew the right buttonhole edge
with the preset reverse satin stitch length
automatically, regardless the setting of
stitch length control.
 r
BUTTONHOLE REVERSE STITCH TUNER
The tuner is for the adjustment of preset right buttonhole side- reverse stitch density,
while it may be seldom required as far as the left buttonhole forward satin stitch in
buttonhole step (1 (is properly set by the stitch length control. The adjustment is made
by screwdriver, setting the stitch selector at buttonhole step (3). Turning tuner to the
right (+), the preset reverse buttonhole stitch density is increased and, to the left)—).
S
it becomes rough.

CONTROLS:
ADJUSTING THREAD TENSIONS
Always adjust the upper thread
tension with the presser foot down,
as the tension is released when it is
raised. To increase the tension on
the upper thread, turn tension

0
control to the, right. To decrease,
turn to the left. Before adjusting
the tension be sure that the
machine is threaded properly.
It is seldom required to adjust
the bobbin thread tension,
however, when necessary to change
bobbin thread tension, turn small
screw on side of the bobbin case
clockwise to tighten counterclock
,

wise to loosen.
When both tensions are properly
balanced, a perfect stitch will be
formed with both threads interlock
ing in fabric (A).
When the upper tension is too tight,
the bobbin thread is pulled up over
the upper thread which is lying flat
on the fabric (B).
When the upper tension is too
loose, the upper thread forms loops
over the bobbin thread lying flat on
the fabric (C).
When the upper and bobbin thread
tensions are balanced but fabric is
puckered in sewing direction on
sheer fabrics, both tensions are too
tight. Loosen both tensions evenly.
It is recommended to adjust the
izuLrLr
tension balance under medium lC)
stitch length. In case of satin
stitching for buttonholes and em
broidery shghtly loosen the upper
thread tension.
lB
 ADJUSTING PRESSURE ON FABRIC AND FEED DOG HEIGHT

. GENERAL SEWING
P
VVVVV.V•V___
•__V__

Usually for normal sewing, except for sewing on

very heavy and bulky fabrics and very stretchy
knit fabrics, the center pin (B) of the pressure
control be at its lowest position, also, the feed
dog height control be turned to the right, “High”
position, except for sewing on very sheer fabrics.
For aboe exceptional fabrics, refer to below
table. To reduce half the pressure, press the
outer ring (A> of the pressure control, then
press the center pin (B) down again to halfway.
To reduce half the feed dog height, turn the feed
dog height control to “LOW” position.

Pressure on Feed dog

V

fabric V

fabric V

height V

Ordinary fabric of less elasticity: -

Heavy and bulky fabrics Half High

Medium weight fabrics Full High
-
Light weight soft fabrics Full Low
Very stretchy fabrics and knits:
Heavy and bulky ones Full High
Medium weight ones
V

Half High
V

- Light weight and sheer ones Half Low

. MENDING AND DRANING:

In order to move the fabric freely in any direction for darning and mending, release
the center pin (B> completely by pressing down on the outer ring (A(. Turn the feed
dog height control to “DOWN” position, which drops the feed dog well below the
needle plate. To return the feed dog height to normal, turn the control to “HIGH”
position. -

‘9
 SEWING LIGHT

The sewing light is located in face cover

directly over the
needle so as to better illuminate the stitching
area.
Turn the light on and off by pushing
the switch
on face cover.
To replace bulb, turn light off and open
face cover to
the left. Unscrew bulb as you do a
conventional light
bulb. Place new bulb in socket and screw
in place.

20
 ____
____
____
___

SECTION N Hóiii&sEW

PREPARING TO SEW

Have take-up lever at highest position before starting to sew.

Pinning may be used
as a time saver instead of hand basting. It is possible to sew
over pins when placed at
right angles to the edge of fabric with the pin head
at the raw edge, but for best
results it is recommended that the pins be removed
as you approach the presser foot.
Sewing over pins can result in damaged needles.
Place material and threads under presser foot and lower
the presser foot. Lower the
needle by turning hand wheel by hand to check if the
needle will pierce the stitching
line you want to sew. You are now ready to begin sewing
. Press the speed control.
The speed of the machine running is regulated by increas
ing ordecreasing the amount
of pressure exerted on the control. Never run machin
e without material under
presser foot.

GUIDING FABRIC

The scale is etched with every 1/8 inch distance measu

red from the center of needle
plate. Let the edge of fabric follow the line selected
for the seam, and let your eyes
follow the etched line you selected for the seam,
not the needle, during sewing. To
help you guide the fabric, place cloth guide attachm
ent securing it by the extra
thumb screw Onto machine bedplate. Cloth
guide and extra thumb screw are
included in your accessory box.
Do not try to help the feeding by pulling the materi
al as this may deflect the needle
and cause it to break.

TURNING CORNERS
To pivot at a corner, leave the needle in the fabric
while its upward stroke. Lift the
presser foot, turn the fabric, then lower the presser
foot and continue sewing.

2)
 CURVED SEAMS
Use slightly shorter stitch length
than that of the rest of the seams.
On the part where elasticity is
required on the seam, sew by
stretch stitch. The cloth guide may
be used on angle as shown.

SEWING ACROSS HEAVY

SEAMS
When approaching heavy seam,
hold the fabric upward on an angle
so that the heavy seam falls under
the front curved sled of presser
foot.

REMOVING THE WORK

Be sure to stop the machine when
the thread take-up lever or needle
bar is at the highest position.
Now raise the presser foot and draw
the fabric back and to the left
and pass the threads over the
thread cutter.
Pull down slightly, holding thread
in both hands, so as not to bend the
needle
Leave the ends of threads under
the presser foot.

22
 ___

SECTiON V •

STRAIGHT STITCH:
SEAMS
Pattern: The normal stitch length for most fabrics
Length: 2—3 is between 2—3 but the length chosen
Width: 0
I Feed Dog: High should depend on the fabric and area of
Pressure: Full usage. Usually, heavier fabrics require
Foot: Straight Stitch or longer stitches, and lighter weight fabrics
All Purpose require shorter stitches. For curved seams
Stretch Control:
REGULAR
and bias cut areas use a shorter stitch
length. Be sure to set the stitch width
control at U

BASTI NG/TOPSTITCH ING

Pattern: Sewing a seam with a longer stitch is
Length:4_5 useful for temporary seams prior to
Width: 0
Feed Dog: High fitting. Basting stitches also may be used
Pressure: Full when gathering in fullness.
Foot: Straight Stitch Topstitching can be done very effectively
Stretch Control: with the long straight stitch. For a bolder
REGULAR stitch, two threads of the same type can
be threaded through one needle (size 14
or 16). A heavier thread such as
buttonhole twist may be used for
topstitchihg, but be sure to use a larger
needle (size 16 or 18).

DARNING
Pattern: Worn spots or small holes can be darned
Length: 0 very easily. Use of an embroidery hoop is
Width: 0
Feed Dog: Down optional depending on the fabric. A fine
Pressure: 0 thread is recommended so that the fabric
Foot: All Purpose, or and thread will blend together invisibly.
Darning Spring of White Trim the ragged edges from the area to be
Special attachment
Stretch Control: darned. Hold the threads to start, then
REGULAR move the fabric slowly backwards and
forwards while running the machine very
fast to fill the area. Professional results
will be attained by moving the fabric in
a figure eight pattern while sewing. After
filling in the area lengthwise, reweave
with crosswise stitches in the same
manner.
23
 CORDING/SEWING IN ZIPPER

• INSERT CORDING
(A) Fold bias strip of fabric over
cord. Loosen the adjusting
screw on the back of cording!
zipper foot and set the foot to
the left of needle.
(B) Sandwich the welting between
two layers of fabric with right
sides together. Stitch a second
time with cording/zipper foot
to the right of needle so that
the needle stitches close to the
cord through all thicknesses.

• ZIPPERS
Swing the foot to left or right of
the needle as needed so that the
foot sews very close to zipper teeth.

QUiLTING
Parallel straight lines are easy to
sew with the quilting guide. To
attach the guide, loosen thumb
screw and slip the Ushaped holder
of the guide between presser foot
and thumb screw. Tighten the
thumb screw securely. Adjust the
curved bar to the desired distance
from the needle. Sew the first line
of stitching as desired, then, for the
succeeding rows let the guide
follow along the previous stitch
line. A straight stitch, zigzag, or any
other stitch may be used.
24
Pattern:
ZIGZAG STITCH:
Length: 1—3 OVERCASTING
Wdth: 5 Place the edge of the material underneath
Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full the opening of the sewing foot and guide
Foot: All Purpose raw edge along the center slot of the foot
Stretch Control: allowing stitch to form half on and half
REGULAR off the fabric.
The multiple stitch zigzag s a wiser
choice for most fabrics.
See page 30.

SEWING KNITS
Pattern:
Length: 1—2 The narrow zigzag can be used in seams
Width: 1 of firm knits for added strength. After
Feed Dog: High sewing, open seam and press flat. Tiny
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
zigzag stitches can hardly be seen and the
Stretch Control: seam will give when stretched.
REGULAR Generally on knits, however, try the
straight stretch or ultra stretch stitches. See
page 35.

Pattern:
SEWING ON BUTTON
Length: 0 Place the button so that the holes of
Width: 2—5
Feed Dog: Down button are positioned in same distance
Pressure: Full from the center straight stitch needle
Foot: Button Foot position respectively.
Stretch Control:
REGULAR Turn hand wheel by hand until needle
point lowers close to the face of button.
Turn stitch width control until the needle
comes just above a hole of button.
Turn hand wheel slowly by hand to check
if the needle comes just above another
hole of button after clearing the first
checked hole of button, If necessary,
readjust the button position below
button foot and repeat above checking
and adjustment of stitch width.
Note: Be sure the needle clears the holes
of the button by moving the hand
.

wheel by hand before running the ma

chine fast.
Usual 6 to 8 stitches are adequate for
securing a button in place.
To lock the threads, set the stitch width

e at 0, readjust the button position to that

a hole of button is just below the needle,
and take a few stitches in the hole.

25
 SEWING ON BUTTON
WITH A THREAD SHANK
Buttons sewn on coats or jackets should
have a thread shank to make them stand
away from the fabric. To form a thread
shank, sew over a pin or rounded
toothpick.
After stitching the button to the fabric,
remove work from under the presser foot
leaving threads about six inches from
fabric. Remove pin or toothpick. Pull the t..
threads to back of button and form a
shank between button and fabric by
winding threads tightly around the attach
ing stitches. Pull threads to back of the
fabric and tie thread ends securely.

SATIN STITCHING
This is useful for decoration such as
tapering, manual designed embroidery, Pattern:
monogramming and applique. Length: ‘/ or “Buttonhole”
The satin stitch, which is really just a Width: 1—5
very close zigzag stitch, is obtained by Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
setting th stitch length as near to “0” Foot: All Purpose
as possible without stopping the feeding Strttch CGntrol:REGULAR
action or at the red bar marked “button
hole”. The setting will vary for different
fabrics, It may be desirable to loosen the
upper tension slightly to cause the
threads to lock underneath in order to
make the top surface look especially
smooth. For lightweight fabrics, place a
paper underneath the fabric for best
results.

26
 BUILT-IN UTILITY STITCHES
Regular Stitch Stretch Stitch
The most popular three kinds of utility

I
A A A
rrr stitches can be made by simply selecting
with stitch pattern selector, also those
complex stitch pattern of back-and-forth
“. 1 I feeding action are made with stretch
/ V V \
stitch control at STRETCH STITCH.
The overall width of those built-in stitch
pattern can be varied by stitch width
control.

TWIN NEEDLE SEWING

Attractive parallel straight stitch effects
and decorative zigzag patterns can be
easily made by sewing with the twin-
needle, and they are very effective for
various kinds of garment finish sewing
such as top stitching, border sewing. etc.
Except buttonhole stitches, all built-in
special stitch patterns can be applied with
the twin needle sewing.
In case of twin needle sewing, the stitch
width control should be at less number
than ‘3” or in red marking.
The use of color-matched or contrasted
two threads will result more attractive
finish.

Pattern: Other than buttonhole stitches

Length: 1—5
Width: Less than 3
Foot All-purpose

27
 FREEHAND MONOGRAMMING
For giving garments and linens a per °attern:
sonalized touch, first transfer the design Length: 0
Width: 1—5
to the right side of the fabric. An Feed Dog: Down
embroidery hoop is recommended es Pressure: 0
pecially for soft fabrics and toweling. Foot: All Purpose or
In order to monogram, you must move Darning Spring of
White special
I
the fabric slowly and run the machine attachment
rapidly. Monogramming is like writing by Stretch Control;
moving the paper under a stationary pen. REGULAR
Guide the fabric slowly so that the zigzag
falls close together like a satin stitch, but
be careful that the stitches do not pile up.
When guiding from side to side, move
fabric slightly faster to avoid a heavy
area.
Practice by forming loops. Once this is
accomplished any letter is easy.
Sometimes the use of paper or non-woven
interfacing under the fabric may make
guiding the fabric easier. The paper or
interfacing may be torn or cut away at
the completion of the monogram.When
monogramming towels, plastic film plac
ed on the top will help cover ioops and
make the monogram smooth. Pull or cut
away remaining plastic film when finish-
ed.

APPLIQUE/PATCHING
Applying decorative shapes of fabric Stepi
scraps to household articles and clothing Pattern:
is a very interesting way of trimming an Length: 1
otherwise plain article. First, trace the Width: 0—2
Feed Dog: High
design on fabric to be appliqued, or Pressure: Full
patched tfen pin or baste it securely in Foot: All Purpose \. -‘
place on garment. With a small straight Stretch Control;
stitch or narrow zigzag, sew around the REGULAR
transferred design or patch.
After excess fabric is trimmed away, sew
around the applique or patch with a satin
stitch or short length zigzag stitch. For a Step2
smooth curve, stop frequently at the Pattern;
Length: ‘/.—
inside edge of the curve to pivot the Width: 2—5
fabric slightly. Corners look much better Feed Dog: High
when the point is stitched by pivoting Pressure: Full
rather than just turned. Foot: All Purpose
Stretch Control:
As with all decorative stitches, paper may REGULAR
be used to give more body to the fabric
when stitching and can be torn away
when the applique is completed.
28
1 GATHERING OVER A CORD
Ordinary gathering with a basting stitch
often breaks while pulling in fullness. A
small zigzag across a cord such as crochet
thread or carpet thread, gives a much
stronger cord for gathering fullness into
fabrics. Once the gathers have been
stitched in place, the cord can be pulled
out in order to eliminate bulk.
,Pattern:
Length: 2
Width: 2—3
Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
Stretch Control: REGULAR

LACE APPLICATION
Attaching laces or trims adds a special
touch to lingerie, dresses, or linens. Pin or
baste lace in place easing or mitering
corners where neccessary.
A straight edged lace or braid has a
convenient line to follow when sewing.
When using a scalloped edged lace follow
the design of the lace for an almost
invisible application.
Pattern:
Length: t4—1
Width: 1—3
Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
Stretch Control: REGULAR

FLUTTER HEM
An unusual way of hemming or finishing
edges of tricot or soft knits is by a flutter
edge. Hemming in this manner is just like
overcasting an edge, but the fabric
is
stretched in back and in front of the
needle as you sew. For best results, pull
the fabric equally, making sure the needle
goes over the edge. When you stop to
reposition your hands, keep the needle in
the fabric.,
Pattern:
Length: ‘4—Y
Width: 4—S
Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
L -
Stretch Control: REGULAR

29
 SEWING TIPS
When a dainty hair line finish is
particularly desirable for the inside seams
of sheer collars, facings, and yokes, seam
allowance that would ordinarily show
through is eliminated by following the
seam outline with a narrow zigzag stitch.
Trim seam allowance close to line of
stitching. Turn and press.
Pattern:
Length: ‘/2—1
Width: %—2 p..

Feed Dog: High

Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
Stretch Control:
REGULAR
SHAPING DARTS IN
INTERFACINGS
Cut interfacing down center between dart
lines. Overlap cut edges, matching dart
lines. Zigzag stitch along marking line
from point to wide end of dart. Trim
both raw edges close to stitching.
Pattern:
Length: t4—1
Width: Y —1
2
Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
Stretch Control:
REGULAR

n
MULTIPLE ZIGZAG STITCH
Pettern:
The multiple zigzag stitch can be used for Stitch Length: 4—S
hundreds of various kinds of sewing applications, Width: 3—S
such as replacing worn blanket bindings for both Feed Dog: High
a decorative and durable finish, overcasting an Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
edge to prevent fraying, applying elastic waist Stretch Control:
bands to skirts and dresses, sewing a zigzag stitch REGULAR
on soft or sheer material preventing puckering,
etc.
2( Just sew like ordinary zigzag stitching.
30
 BUTTONHOLES
Various fabrics require various methods of sewing
C ‘ A buttonholes. Four different methods are given below,
. C C with suggested uses. If you are in doubt as to which
method is best for your fabric, test the methods in
question and choose the best according to the finished
appearance.
F I

PREPARATION
For the best results, a good quality mercerized cotton
thread should be used. Polyester threads often result in
puckered or heavy unattractive buttonholes. The finer
your fabric is, the finer your cotton thread should be.
An interfacing should be used under the buttonholes to
give body, to strengthen, and to help them withstand
wear.

To establish the correct length of the buttonhole, add

the length of the button (A), plus the thickness of the
button (B), plus 1/32 inch for the bartacks. The length
may be marked on the garment with a basting stitch,
tailor’s chalk, or an invisible cellophane tape, as shown.
Horizontal buttonholes should extend 1/8 inch beyond
the centerline of the garment. Vertical buttonholes are
placed so that the cutting space of the buttonhole is
directly on the center line.

Always make a practice buttonhole on a scrap of the

garment fabric before making any buttonholes on your
garment. On your test sample, duplicate the thicknesses
found in the garment and be sure to include the
interfacing. The test sample should help determine the
length needed for the button to pass through the hole
easily, as well as the stitch length needed for the
particular fabric. As with the satin stitch, the stitches
OF GARMENT should be close together, but not so close that they pile
up. Be sure to use the buttonhole foot.

CENTER LINE
OF GARMENT

31
 BUILT-IN BUTTONHOLE -

needle for pivoting the Pattern: IJ——t1--

This buttonhole eliminates the
light and medium woven Length: th: Buttonhole
fabric. It is used most often on with stitc h Wid 3—5
ton hol e is mad e Feed Dog: High-Down
fabric. The narrowest but with it
st one is done Pressure: Full
width control at 3 and the wide “BUTTON Foot: Buttonhole Foot.AR
length cont rol shou ld be at
at 5. The stitch Stretch Stitch:REGUL
without stop feeding action.
HOLE” or near 0 not to
desired position between 3
With stitch width at your
can be made by simply turning
and 5, a buttonhole
buttonhole position 1 to
stitch pattern selector from
ence on the stitch pattern
those 2, 3 and 4 in sequ
selector panel.
at buttonhole (1). Lower
1. Set stitch pattern selector
left end of button
needle into the mark at the top
t and sew on the left side I
hole. Lower buttonhole foo
you reach the botto m end of
of buttonhole until
buttonhole.
nhole (2-4> and take
2. Turn pattern selector to butto
m end of button
just a few stitch to bartack the botto
hole.
the pattern selector to the
3. With needle up, turn
right side of buttonhole.
buttonhole (3) to sew on the
step to make it even to the
The stitch density in this
can be adjusted by the
left edge forward stitch
r at the top of machine
buttonhole reverse stitch tune
of both stitch densities
arm, though the evenness
sted in adva nce by the stitch
should be roughly adju
ard stitch density of the
length control on the forw
increase the stitch density
left buttonhole edge. To
edge, turn the tuner by
on this right buttonhole
(4-), and, to lengthen stitch
screwdriver to the right
density turn to the left
length to decrease the stitch

cloth, turn again to the

4. With the needle out of the
the buttonhole
buttonhole (4) position and complete
h on the top end of
by bartacking just a few stitc
buttonhole.
the needle is out of the
5. To lock the stitch, make sure
fabric and set the pattern selec tor at ordinary sewing
h widt h cont rol at 0, and feed dog
position, the stitc
hes.
height down. Then take a few stitc
the bartack insert a
6. To prevent cutting through
and cut buttonhole
straight pin through the bartack
2€ open.

32
 For best buttonhole finish, it is suggested to test
buttonholings on scrap of same fabric as that you want
to buttonhole, for selection of buttonhole width and
stitch density best suited to your fabric.

CORDED BUTTONHOLE
Cording gives a reinforced raised buttonhole. It is

W
excellent for use on bulky, woven fabric, or knits
in which the stitching often gets buried and
makes cutting difficult. On knits, a corded
buttonhole will help keep the fabric from
stretching out of shape.
Choose a heavy cotton crochet thread or
buttonhole twist to use for the cording. Proceed
as for the turn-around buttonhole having cord
the under the presser foot in such a way that
the zigzag stitch covers the cord.
Pattern: At the completion of the buttonhole snip the
Length: Red bar mark excess cord close to the bartack on woven
Width: 5-2-2-5-2-0
Feed Dog: Down-High-Down-High-Down fabrics. For knitted garments, always pull the
Pressure: Full cords to the wrong side by using a darning needle
Foot: Buttonhole Foot or needle threader, and knot the cord ends
Stretch Control: REGULAR before clipping.

33
 BLIND HEM STITCH TEP1 -

The blind hem stitch provides a durable hem

finish that is almost invisible on garments.
drapes, and curtains. It is done easily with
:::::..--....:.............

I
straight or slightly curved hems. With a little
practice it will be a very quick and easy hem
application and the hem will never need
repairing.
Procedure:
(1 )Prepare raw edge of hem in desired manner,
such as overcast, 1/4 inch stitched under
pinked, hem tape, or just plain. (Step 1>
(2)Fold hem up desired length. Baste or pin 1/2 .V
-

inch from upper edge. Press in place. (Step 2)

-.-.--.:-:-- -

>
(3)FoId hem back toward right side of fabric >
leaving about 1/4 inch extended. (Step 3)
>
(4) Guide the fold of the fabric into the center
- - - •-.-••

:-:.-. >

cut of the presser foot so that the zigzag bite >

of the stitch comes just slightly to the left of • -:.;...
)

the center cut of the presser foot. The straight

••-.:-•-•-.- >

or narrow zigzag stitches should be formed on

the single thickness of fabric, and the zigzag
wide bite should catch just barely into the
fold of the fabric at the left.
(5)When stitching is completed, remove fabric
from machine and turn to right side. Press
completed hem.
When hemming an A-line skirt, place a machine
basting stitch along the raw edge of the hem. At
an ironing board, fold up the hem, matching the
seams. Ease in the excess fabric by pulling on
basting thread. Press with steam, then apply hem
tape. Baste or pin hem 1/2” from taped edge,
then continue into step 3.

Pattern: or
Length: 2-3 • STEP4 - V

Width: 3-5
Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
Stretch Control:
REGULAR

I
34
 STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCH:
This stitch may be used on knits and wovens in areas of
stress as a reinforcement stitch. It is excellent for curved
seams such as armholes and crotch seams. For active wear Pattern:
such as ski pants and girdle fabrics which endure a lot of Lenoth: 5
Width: 0
stress in .bending and stretching, this stitch may be used Feed Dog: High
for seaming throughout the garment. With stretch stitch Presti,rs: Full
Foot: All Purpose
control at “STRETCH STITCH” position, sew in same Stretch Control:
manner as for ordinary sewing. STRETCH

CAUTION — It is difficult to remove this stitch from

fabric. Pre-fit garment before using this stitch.
• TOPSTJTCHJNG

I Because this stitch is heavier than an ordinary straight

stitch, it is ideal for topstitching, particularly on knits.

ULTRA-STRETCH STITCH:
The Ultra-Stretch Stitches are excellent for stretch fabrics such as lingerie, sweater
knits, bathing suit knits, and cotton knits, It has the greatest strength and elasticity
of all.
Pattern:
• RICK-RACK STRETCH Length: 5
Width: 2—5
This is most common utility ultrastretch of a triple Feed Dog: High
back-and-forth zigzag stitches with more elasticity Pressure: Full
than regular zigzag. Foot: All purpose
Stretch Control:
STRETCH

Pattern:
• PINE-LEAF STRETCH Length: 5
This is the combined stitch of straight stretch and Width: 2-5
single sideward stitches, useful for hemming on Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full—Half
most knits and stretchy fabrics, Foot: All purpose
Stretch Control:
STRETCH
• SPECIAL ULTRA-STRETCH STITCHES
These are very useful ultra-stretch stitches called smocking, and Blind
Stretch, as shown on pattern marking for various purpose.
Pattern:
Special stitches
Length: 5
Width:2—5
Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
Stretch Control:
STRETCH

35
 APPLICATIONS:

On most knits, an about 3/16 inch finished N

seam, such as pine-leaf or special ultra-
stretch stitches are more desirablethan a T1e sthdi’’lngth control shouId’’
5/8 inch opened seam allowance. These be a)ways”-at number 5 when
stitches can create a neater, more stretch stitching, otherwise thea
professional finish, eliminate bulky : machine will be noisy and the -

seams, prevent curling, permit the gar -materia1 may feed in reverse only
ment to “give” under stress, and at the with uneven forward and reverse
same time they cut down on the amount -stitch length
of work involved in making a garment. If
ever in doubt as to which of those
stitches to use, test them on the particular
fabric in question and choose according
to their performance.
Its uses are almost unlimited and the
more you use your machine the more j
will become apparent to you

• ELASTIC APPLICATION
Fold fabric over the elastic and stitch
elastic and fabric at one time, using
smocking, pine-leaf, or other ultra-stretch
stitch. The double layer of fabric next to
the elastic should be stitched with the
one-side of ultra-stretch seam and the
elastic should be caught by another side.

36
. OVERLOCK APPLICATION

Special ultra-stretch stitches are also very

usable for overlock stitching on both
woven and knit fabrics.

(A) Place the raw edge of the fabric under the

presser foot so that as the needle swings to
the right, it comes down at the raw edge.
This will result in an enclosed seam
allowance.

(B) The seam allowances may be trimmed to 1/4

inch either before or after sewing. If
trimming before sewing, proceed as above.
Otherwise, sew the seam with the raw edge
of the fabric on the etched guide line 1/2”.
(Any time you use the full width of a
particular stitch, you should readjust the raw
edge of the fabric 1/8 inch to the left.)
Afterward, trim the excess fabric near the
stitching. This method is actually easier than
the overedge method for fabrics that curl.
Note: On soft, loose knits, the fabric may
seem to wave or ripple. If this occurs, reduce
the pressure on fabric.

37
 SECTION VI cAREANt ‘MAINtENANCE OFYOURMAHIN

OILING MACHINE
Use only a good sewing machine
oil, do not use any common
household oils.
Your machine should be oiled
occasionally to keep it operating
smoothly. How often depends on
the amount of sewing you do.
Once a year oil your machine
thoroughly as indicated by the
arrows on illustrations.
Avoid over oiling.

38
 CLEANING AND OILING
THE SHUTTLE AREA
The stitch forming mechanism occasional
ly becomes clogged with loose threads
and lint. This will interfere with the
efficient operation of the machine.
Cleaning and removal of the lint will
safeguard the performance.
To remove the shuttle assembly, proceed
as follows:
1. Turn hand wheel until the needle
reaches its highest position. Tilt head
back on its hinges.
2. Remove bobbin case (A).
3. Turn the two shuttle race cover clamps
(f) outward and remove the shuttle
race cover (C) and the shuttle body
(E) and the lint cleaner (D).
4. Clean the shuttle race, the shuttle, and
shuttle race cover by removing all
threads, lint, etc.

When the cleaning has been completed, proceed as follows to replace the shut•
tIe assembly:
1. Turn hand wheel until the needle reaches its highest position.
2. Place lint cleaner (D) to shuttle driver and shuttle body (E) in race (F)
against shuttle driver and adjust into position.
3. Replace shuttle race cover (C), fitting pin at lower edge into notch, and lock
into position with shuttle race cover clamps, (f), making certain the clamps have
been snapped securely into position.
4. Put bobbin (B) into bobbin case (A).
5. Put the bobbin case into the shuttle, fitting tongue (a) into notch (c) of race
cover (C).

(A) (B) (C) (D) CE) (F)

39
il
-

ADJUSTING BOBBIN WINDER

-

st
It may be sometime required to adju
rear top threa d guid e to
the level of
er,
conform with the level of bobbin wind
especially, when threa d wind s unev enly
on bobbin.
in
If the thread winds unevenly on bobb
as shown (A), loosen set screw of rear top
e
thread guide and move the thread guid
- -

n
up slightly. If the thread winds as show
tly.
(B), move the thread guide down sligh

ADJUSTiNG AND CHANGING

MOTOR BELT
Following are the instructions for adjust
ing and changing the motor belt:
(1) Remove four screws holding rear
cover by tipping it out at the bottom
and pivoting around the hand wheel
away from the front of the machine
s
(2) To adjust motor belt, loosen screw
(A)and move bracket (B)up to loosen
belt and down to tighten.
(3) To remove motor belt:
• Remove top cover.
• Loosen clutch (C).
• Loosen screws (A) and move
bracket (B) to its highest posi
tion.
• Slip belt off motor pulley and
then over hand wheel.
• Replace motor belt by slipping it
over hand wheel and then over
motor pulley.
• Adjust as noted under No. 2.

40
 __•J

PROBLEM AND REMEDIES

Trouble Probable Cause Remedies

F
-
‘—•
. If Machine 3hread or hat rn race-
‘--‘
C)ean and oil mactune
‘‘- - -.

the shuttle

F --
Skipping Bent needle
-

Replace to new needle (See page 10)

I Stftthes

—
--

Needle
- —-
.—--.-
-

need correctly (See page 10)

Too fine a needle for Replace needle or thread to conform

r-
thread being used . each other (See page 9)
Too stróhy fabric. Place a paper beneath fabric or use
Ball Point needle

I -I j
-
—

nute
-.
Improper threading. 5ee threading instruction page 13
Bobbin nOt -
Adjust bobbin winder (See page 40)

—
—- —-.,—---—--. --——-—.‘.-. -

Unevi flgioldi

rr
—--
Avodpungormateri& just
Stitches -matenal. -
ide it.
Not enough tension —
-
- on upper thread Increase tension
Po& uality thread - -Try different thread
P —--S - - - —----.-
Seeeedle and thread chart page 9
t-ZL_ t s*_L -

- Upper Thread
-
-
;s—
-mProperlythreaded.-
-“ Refer to threadinó instructions, see
Breaking page 13, and rethread machine.
- —
r ‘Too much -tension Loosen upper thread tension
(See pagel8
Starting with tak p-, Always start sewing with take-up lever
in incorrect position - in highest position
I Improper setting of
- -
‘. Refer toneedle settinginstruction
-

needle. see
- -

page 10. . -

Bent or eye of needle

- too shp. Tryariew needle.
-
--

Bent or blunt needle. Discard all blunt or bent needles and

-

: replace with new.

Material - rT. too tight. See tension adjustment, page 18.
Puckering -

Dull needle. Change needle.

-

Stitch length too long. Reduce stitch length.

• Machine noisy
-‘

& material Stitch length control

- “
is set at other than Set stitch length control at Number 5

--
- ••

Improper Remove needle plate and clean lint from

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feeding ,
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41
 SECTION V SPEC1AL ATrACHMENTS

In addition to the basic set of accessories equipped on your machine, followings are
additional time-saving attachments specially designed for your machine. They are
available at modest cost from your dealer. If your dealer cannot supply you with
these items, ask him to order them for you by part number. Then you will be assured
of receiving the genuine part designed for best performance with your machine. If a
sewing machine dealer is not available, mail your inquiry direct to:
WHITE SEWING MACHINE COMPANY, 11750 Berea Road, Cleveland,
Ohio 4411 1
or,
WHITE CONSOLIDATED INDUSTRIES, LTD., 1470 Birchmount Rd,
Scarborough, Ontario, Canada.

RUFFLER DARNING SPRING NARROW HEMMER

PART #1403 PART #4990 PART #76316

ATTACHMENT FOOT BINDER EDGE -STITCHER

LJ

PART #82528 PART #74159 PART #76554

HEMMERS:

7l8’HEM 5/8”HEM 3/8”HEM 1 /4”HEM

ii-;,

PART #76553 PART #76652 PART #76551 PART #76550

42
 ATTACHMENT FOOT
In order to attach binder, edgestitcher and the
hemmers, it is necessary to remove the presser
foot and replace it with the attachment foot.
Mount binder, edgestitcher or hemmers by
sliding the attachment to the left as far as
possible and tightening the screw.
The mounting slot enables you to sew as close to
or as far away from the edge as desired. Just
move, the attachment to the correct position
before tightening the mounting screw.

EDGESTITCHER
The edgestitcher is used in making dainty lace
insertions, edgings and piping.
The slots in the edgestitcher serve as guides in
sewing together various pieces of material. If you
want to sew lace, lace and embroidery, or lace
and tucked strips together, place the piece of
material that will be on top in slot 1 and the
lower fabric in slot 4. For instance, if you are
sewing lace edging to a finished edge of fabric,
place the fabric in slot 1 and the lace in slot 4.
Be sure to draw the lace and material under the
needle and back of the edgestitcher so that the
feed will carry it backward as you stitch. Hold
the fabric in the left hand and the lace in the
right, being sure the fabric overlaps the lace
slightly.
Rick-rack-stretch can be sewn to the edge of the
material in the same manner.
To trim with wide piping place the fabric in slot
4, and the fold of the piping to the left in solt 3,
for a narrow piping place fabric in slot 2 and the
folded edge of the piping to the right in slot 3.
Slot 5 may be used as a guide in stitching a
French seam.

43
 BINDER
This attachment folds bias binding
and applies it to the edge of
material in one operation. Slots on
scroll of the binder are for corres
ponding widths of commercially
folded bias binding.
S
The open mouth of binder scroll is
used for unfolded bias strips cut
15-16 inch wide.

FOLDED BINDING
Cut folded binding to a point,
insert in appropriate slot. Draw
through slot and under binder with
strong pin. Test stitching to be sure
it is on the edge. Adjust by sliding
binder to right or left.

TWO-TONE BINDING
Two bindings can be sewn on fabric
edge also in one operation. When
two are used always skip one size
between widths, inserting each in
correct size slot.

HAND-CUT BIAS BINDING

Cut 15-16 inch bias binding fold in
half for a couple of inches. Cut
binding diagonally toward end,
almost to fold. Slip fold into center
of binder. Draw back until cut
opens and binding encircles open
end of scroll. Test stitching to be
sure it is on the edge, adjust if
necessary.
See suggestions on how to use the
binder. There are hundreds of other
uses.
44

I
THE SET OF HEMMERS
Before attaching any of the hemmers, be sure bobbin
thread is pulled up.
Then, with hemmer in place, hold top thread loosely and turn
handwheel one full turn toward you, making a loop under
hemmer. Grasp bobbin thread with both hands and slip horizontally under
hemmer
toward back. Bobbin thread will catch loop and carry upper thread
to back of
hemmer.
Fold material to suit for two inches along edge, hold at each end of
fold. Slip fold
into guide and up over spoon. Fold hem in material back of hemmer.
Draw forward
to end of hem and fastn with point of needle. Pull on threads gently
as you start
stitching.

You can make a hem 1/4”, 3/8’, 5/8” or 7/8” in width, depending upon which
hemmer you use A few uses are shown below.
 RUFFLER
The ruffler will produce yards of delicate ruffling or precision pleating.
Ruffling can also be done and sewn to another piece of fabric at the same time.
This highly versatile attachment despite its wide range of use, is simple to use.
Use the ruffler for making aprons, curtains, pleating a skirt, adding fullnes,,.Io the
bodice of a dress etc.

46
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 LACE TRIMMED HEM
To sew a narrow hem and attach
lace in one stitching, insert lace in
the slot next to needle.Sew hem as
shown, guiding lace under needle
and hem into scroll. Rickrack
stretch may be used in the same
way.

LACE EDGE WITH INVISI

BLE STITCHING
Hold lace 1/8 inch from raw edge
on right hand side of fabric. Insert
both in scroll, as for plain narrow
hem, let hem roll over and sew in
lace. When the stitching is compIet
ed the hem is pressed on the wrong
side.

FRENCH SEAM
Place material with right sides
facing each other and the top piece
of material 1/8 inch from right
hand edge of lower piece. Insert in
hemmer scroll allowing hem to roll
over and sew in top fabric making
French seam. For cording effect,
use zigzag stitch wide enough to
catch both edges of the narrow
rolled hem and sew with satin
stitch. This can be used For covering
chairs and so forth.

HEMMING ACROSS A SEAM

To hem across a seam, cut the seam
folds at an angle so they will lead
into the hemmer gradually. Press
seam open. Stitch across the seam
at the extreme edge to hold it
together and for added firmness, It
may be necessary to pull the
material slightly when hemming
over the seam.

48