My Calabria - Rosetta Costantino, Janet Fletcher
My Calabria - Rosetta Costantino, Janet Fletcher
My Calabria - Rosetta Costantino, Janet Fletcher
DT
W. W. Norton & Company
New York London
Copyright © 2010 by Rosetta Costantino and Janet Fletcher
Wine Suggestions copyright © 2010 by Shelly Lindgren
Photographs copyright © 2010 by Sara Remington
For information about special discounts for bulk purchases, please contact
W. W. Norton Special Sales at specialsales@wwnorton.com or 800-233-4830
1, Dy Mh (8) 77 3} G) ©
To my mother, Maria,
and to all the Calabresi in the world.
Acknowledgments
Map of Calabria
Key Ingredients at
antipasti ° ANTIPASTI 21
Small savory nibbles to launch a meal... crispy eggplant meatballs
... home-cured olives... crostini with a warm seafood spread...
featherlight fritters to accompany the evening's first glass of wine
pasta * PASTA A5
Handmade fusilli wrapped around a knitting needle .. . a creamy
sauce with potatoes and pancetta ...a rib-sticking winter lamb
ragu....asummery sauce with swordfish and cherry tomatoes
vl
carne * MEAT 191
Spicy homemade fennel sausage .. . roast baby goat with crusty potatoes,
an Easter tradition . . . succulent baked lamb shoulder with artichokes
and peas ... garlicky chicken braised with eggplant and tomato
Bibliography 374
Index 310
CONTENTS vil
Chiesa Santa Maria, an operating Catholic church in Tropea, on the Tyrrhenian Sea
Acknowledgments
My thanks to my agent, Carole Bidnick, for her advice and encouragement, and for
helping me from the beginning and seeing this book through to the end.
I would like to give special thanks to my editor, Maria Guarnaschelli, who loved
the idea of my book from the minute she met me, believed in it, and was persistent
in wanting to make it the definitive cookbook on Calabria. I am also deeply grateful
to Melanie Tortoroli, Maria's assistant, for going out of her way to help me on many
occasions.
Thanks to Sara Remington, the photographer, who worked so hard with her
assistant and food stylist, Katie Christ, to make the food look great. And to Italian
wine authority Shelley Lindgren, who did such a careful job of pairing my recipes
with wines from Southern Italy.
Thanks to Randy Hicks for being my assistant from my very first class, testing
and editing my recipes from the beginning, and for his advice and friendship; to
Miss Linda for assisting in my cooking classes and for her enthusiasm and encour-
agement; and to all my students for their helpful feedback on recipes.
Thanks to Agnes Lord for pushing me to write a cookbook and helping me with
the initial book proposal.
Thanks to Francesca Nudo, our dear Calabrian friend, who supported me along
the way and helped with researching the history of Calabria, and who has provided
sound advice and friendship.
Thanks to Linda Carucci, without whom I probably would have never embarked
on this journey. She encouraged me to start teaching Calabrian cooking classes and
allowed me to teach with her so that I could get my foot in the door.
Linda introduced me to Janet Fletcher, my coauthor, whose article on my fam-
ily's Calabrian culinary traditions in the San Francisco Chronicle got me started in
this new career. Janet also encouraged me to teach Calabrian cooking classes and
accepted the challenge to work with me and write this book. It was a pleasure work-
ing with her from day one. She kept on asking questions that pushed me to learn so
much more about my native land.
I would like to give special thanks to the following people and establishments
in Calabria for their warm hospitality and for sharing recipes: Roberto Ceraudo,
1X
Azienda Agrituristica Dattilo; Rita Callipo, Agriturismo Casa Janca; Pasquale Vacca,
Villa San Domenico; Agriturismo Santo Janni; Agriturismo Le Colline del Gelso;
Denise and Pietro Lecce, San Lorenzo si alberga; Agriturismo Contrada Guido; and
Agriturismo Le Carolee. Italian food importer Cesare Gallo; Rolando Beramendi and
Brooke Thornton of Manicaretti; and Italian food marketer Gisella Isidori helped
us arrange producer visits during our trip to Calabria. Andrea Sertoli of Select Italy
also assisted with our travel plans. In the United States, Italian food marketers
Richard Armanino of ItalFoods, Gianluca Guglielmo of A. G. Ferrari, and Martina
Kenworthy and Beatrice Ughi from Gustiamo have helped with ingredient needs.
Thanks also to Nino Delfino, who drove Janet and me around Calabria to meet the
region's artisans and producers.
I also want to thank the following producers who allowed us to visit their facili-
ties and generously shared their expertise: Giuseppe Falcone at Fratelli Falcone;
Christine Conrad at Pittaffo A&C; Francesco Sergi at Colavolpe; Vincenzo Cundari
at Cundari; Prof. Vittorio Caminiti of Alla Degusteria; Domenico Scalise of Delizie
di Calabria; Rosa Fanfulla of Salagione San Francesco; Domenico Alagna and M.
Carmela Spano, Alagna & Spano Pesce Stocco; Natale Aiello of Pasticceria Aiello;
Lucia Lombardo of Pastificio La Porta; Angelo Minisci and Anita Minisci of La
Molazza; Francesco Martino at Laratta; Antonio Paese at Caseificio Paese; Saverio
Grillo, Azienda Agricola Saverio Grillo; Francesco Madia, Caseificio Villafiore;
Fortunato Amarelli of Amarelli; Alfonso Maiorano, Francesco Rizzo, and Francesco
Laudari at Azienda Agricola Maiorano; Cinzia Ieracitano and Francesca Rombola at
Callipo; Giuseppe Riggio of Salumificio Riggio; Santino Rinaldi of Mirti & Zagare;
Giuseppe Sarubbi of IMagnifici del Mezzogiorno; and Verbicaro shepherd Pasquale
Di Giorno.
Many thanks to the following Calabrian chefs and restaurant owners, who gen-
erously shared recipes with me: Enzo Filardi, La Kamastra; Carminuccio Longo, La
Capricciosa; Margarita Amasino, Ristorante Dattilo; Antonio Napoli, Pantagruel;
Salvatore Murano, Max Trattoria; and to Vittorio Riga, Bar Gelateria Chez Toi, for
sharing the technique for shaping the famous Tartufo di Pizzo. Sincere thanks also
to Prof. Dott. Ottavio Cavalcanti, Universita della Calabria, who shared his deep
knowledge of Calabrian culinary history.
My thanks to the following wine experts, who educated me about Calabrian wines
and welcomed me warmly: Paolo Librandi of Librandi; Pietro Andricciola; Gregorio
Odoardi of Azienda Agricola Odoardi; Francesco Tramontana of Crisera; Antonio
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Tramontana of Azienda Vinicola Tramontana; Fattoria San Francesco;Verbicaro Viti
e Vini; Vintripodi Cantine; and John Battista of Winebow.
I am grateful to Maria Woodley and Augusto Marchini of the Italian Trade
Commission for their assistance with our research trip to Calabria; and to Christine
McDonald and Rick Smilow of the Institute of Culinary Education in New York City
for underwriting the class that helped me secure the book contract.
Thanks to my cousins Alberto and Vincenzo Celia and their wives, Rosangela
and Filomena, for always welcoming me into their homes and sharing recipes. Many
thanks to all my other cousins in Calabria for their support of this project.
I would have never started this book without the encouragement of my husband
and my children. They put up with me during the five years I worked on this proj-
ect, which sometimes seemed endless. My children inspired me to write this book,
as they wanted me to record all the recipes my mother carried in her head so they
could pass them on to their own children.
This book would not exist without my mom and dad, Maria and Vincenzo Dito.
My mother put in endless hours teaching me the recipes and testing them with me,
and she has been beside me at every one of my cooking classes. My dad takes care
of my garden so that I can always have the best homegrown vegetables, and he has
shared his knowledge of how to live from what Mother Earth gives you. Thank you,
Mom and Dad, for teaching me how to grow and cook my own food.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS xl
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Un Viaggio Virtuale in Calabria
AN ARMCHAIR TOUR
The home that so many Calabrians once had to La Riviera dei Cedri and
abandon is a painfully beautiful place, a remote Tyrrhenian Coast
land of majestic castles and ancient fortresses; La Riviera dei Cedri (the Citron Coast) has no fixed
snow-covered highlands that resemble Switzerland; borders but extends roughly from the towns of
markets proffering salt cod, unusual salumi, and Praia a Mare to Cetraro, and from the coast to the
fresh ricotta cheese; and miles of beaches and foothills. Although citron plantings have given way
unspoiled coastline, the longest in all Italy. to beachfront development in much of the region,
Rural Calabria remains a lush green much of this balmy, frost-free zone is where citron thrives
the year, with fields of wild raspberries and wild (page 329). You can still see the low-growing trees
strawberries in the hills where goats roam; high along the coast, especially around the town of Santa
mountain pastures and dense chestnut forests; and Maria del Cedro.
vast coastal plantings of fragrant citrus. Just south ofthe Basilicata border, Praia a Mare
With six major mountain chains, Calabria has welcomes visitors to Calabria with splendid beaches,
limited arable land. In places, such as near Bagnara clear sea waters, pedestrian-only streets, and fine
Calabra and Capo Vaticano, on the Tyrrhenian coast, shopping. The Isola di Dino, Calabria’s largest
the coastline is so narrow that the steep moun- island, sits just opposite the Praia beach and is
tains seem to rise from the sea. Calabria’s extreme easily accessible by boat for those who want to tour
geography, in such a narrow peninsula, explains its natural grottoes, the result of erosion.
its extraordinarily varied climate, agriculture, and Scalea, south of Praia, is a bustling beach
landscape. town that swells with sun-worshippers in July and
This armchair tour of Calabria is not an itiner- August. Dozens of gelaterie (ice cream shops) vie
ary in the conventional sense as it pays little heed for customers here, catering to the Italians’ insa-
to the most efficient route through the region. tiable appetite for gelato. The hilly old quarter has
Instead, it aims to highlight the main attractions of good seafood restaurants and arresting sea views.
each region from the perspective of the food-loving Farther south along the coast is the pictur-
traveler. esque town of Diamante, which owes its modern
renown to the peperoncino (hot pepper), a key
ingredient in the regional cooking and the agri-
LA PROVINCIA DI COSENZA culture of the surrounding province. The annual
The largest and northernmost of Calabria’s five prov- Festival del Peperoncino, an enormous food fair
inces, the province of Cosenza borders the region held here in September, draws heat-seeking tour-
of Basilicata. Its landscape could hardly be more ists from all over Europe. The nearby hilltown of
varied, ranging from the rugged, remote Pollino Maiera has a Museo del Peperoncino, a museum
mountains to the wide, cabana-covered beaches that is a must-stop for hot pepper fans, and virtu-
of the Riviera dei Cedri; from the mushroom-rich ally every food shop in Diamante is crammed with
forests of the Sila Grande to the piana di Sibari pepper-laden souvenirs. Built on a rock, Diamante
(plain of Sibari), a broad, fertile basin blanketed has steep, alley-like streets that are delightful to
with citrus and stone fruits. roam (in the proper shoes); roughly 150 vivid
From the visitor's perspective, it makes sense to murals, initially painted in 1981 by artists from
divide the province into more manageable parts: around the world, adorn many of the buildings’
Xili
stucco walls. Diamante boasts a wide beach and a The breathtaking town of Morano Calabro
charming lungomare, or boardwalk, where locals looks two-dimensional as you approach it, so
and visitors take their evening stroll and restau- steeply is it pitched on its hillside. An energetic
rants set up outdoor tables for diners feasting on tourist can climb the town’s steep main street to
local seafood. the thirteenth-century Norman castle at its peak.
Continuing south along the coast, you enter the In town, a museum displays the artifacts of every-
realm ofthe fig tree. Belmonte Calabro is headquar- day life for Calabrian sharecroppers and shepherds
ters for Colavolpe, a century-old firm famous for in earlier times. If you visit in late June, the town’s
its dried fig confections. Its beautiful shop offers mulberry trees will be laden with fruit, and you will
many elegantly packaged temptations, from the be able to sample these luscious berries at the local
classic dried-fig wreaths, or coroncine—figs strung farmers’ market.
in a ring, like beads on a necklace—to modern fan- San Basile, Frascineto, and Civita are all
tasies such as chocolate-dipped dried figs stuffed Arbéresh towns in the national park, populated
with hazelnut cream. If you visit in summer, check largely by Calabrians of Albanian descent (page 62).
local markets for the pomodori di Belmonte, also In Civita, a tiny village with a spectacular moun-
known as cuore di bue (ox heart), enormous heart- tain setting, you can visit the small Arbéresh ethnic
shaped tomatoes that can weigh three pounds each. museum and dine well at Kamastra, a restaurant
Amantea, just south of Belmonte Calabro, has specializing in Arbéresh dishes, such as dromésat
dried-fig enterprises, too, but is better known for (page 60), a type of handmade pasta that resembles
its anchovies and rosamarina (newborn anchovies), couscous. Bread enthusiasts will want to make a
which cooks dip in batter and fry to make fritters detour for Cerchiara di Calabria, on the southeast
known as pitticelle. edge of the park. There, in a handful of baker-
Between Diamante and Belmonte Calabro, the ies in this self-proclaimed Citta del Pane (city of
town ofPaola lures thousands ofpilgrims every May bread), women still prepare the traditional pane di
to a procession in honor of San Francesco di Paola, Cerchiara. This enormous, round, part-whole-wheat
a fifteenth-century ascetic and the patron saint of loaf weighs five pounds or more (two to three kilos)
fishermen. Fervid religious processions featuring and requires four hours to bake in a wood-fired
mechanized floats, bands, chanting, torchlights, oven.
and fireworks are an almost weekly occurrence all
over Calabria, but the one commemorating San The Piana di Sibari and
Francesco is among the largest. Olive Country
The eastern side of the province encompasses one
Il Parco Nazionale of the only significant plains in Calabria, a broad
del Pollino expanse of productive land known as the piana di
The Parco Nazionale del Pollino, a national park, Sibari. Here, clementines and peaches, the latter
draws outdoor enthusiasts such as hikers, cyclists, trellised like grapevines, cover thousands of acres.
and mushroom foragers. My native village of Perhaps if more of Calabria were as arable as the
Verbicaro is on the western edge of the park, on piana di Sibari, people would not have had to strug-
the Abetamarco River, an area with numerous gle so hard to survive.
picnic sites. Many tourists and city people come Visitors to the area can see the remains of
here to picnic in summer after buying fresh ricotta ancient Sibari (Sybaris), considered among the
from one of the shepherds in the area. Another most beautiful cities of Magna Graecia, the area
worthwhile stop is the remote mountain village of of Southern Italy colonized by the ancient Greeks.
Papasidero, where history-minded visitors come to South of Sibari is olive country with production
tour the grotta del Romito (page 8). centered around Corigliano Calabro. Olive trees
At the southern tip of the Italian peninsula lies an Italy that few people
know: a land of fragrant citron and bergamot orchards, ancient olive groves and
terraced vineyards; a place of persistent tradition and ritual, where the annual
swordfish catch and hot pepper harvest are celebrated with elaborate festivals, and
where women still roll pasta dough around knitting needles.
In Calabria, this scenic and storied region at the “toe” of the Italian boot, cooks
maintain a food culture unique in Italy. Rooted in the garden and enlivened by the
peperoncino (hot pepper), Calabrian cooking is rustic and spicy, deeply flavorful but
devoid of ornament, a daily demonstration of ingenuity.
I was born and raised in this rugged landscape, in Verbicaro, a small wine-
producing hill town above Scalea, near the Tyrrhenian Sea. My father was a shep-
herd and winemaker, my mother his tireless assistant, and I grew up with food that
was almost entirely homegrown and homemade. Although we are Californians now,
my family still clings to the foods of Calabria, the ancestral home of many Italian-
Americans.
Separated from the region of Basilicata, its northern neighbor, by the Pollino
mountain range, Calabria faces water on all other sides—the Tyrrhenian Sea to the
west, the Ionian Sea to the east, and the Strait of Messina that separates it from
Sicily to the south. Until the rail line connecting Naples to Reggio Calabria was
completed in 1895, the region remained hard to reach and hard to leave. Some of
Calabria’s hill towns and mountain villages didn't see paved roads until the 1960s;
until then, commerce and communication were slow and difficult. My father recalls
that a horse-drawn carriage brought the mail to Verbicaro until the late 1930s.
This remoteness hampered economic progress but preserved a distinctive
Calabrian cuisine. Although similarities exist with the kitchens of the surrounding
regions of Campania, Basilicata, Sicily, and Puglia, Calabrian cooks have a reper-
toire all their own.
On a typical day, if you were to join my family for breakfast, we would serve
you homemade bread with fresh fig preserves (page 277); or i visquotti, barely sweet
breakfast cookies that we dip in coffee. Stay for lunch and we might have pitta, the
Calabrian stuffed pizza (page 131), filled with chard from our garden and dill; or a
platter of whole fried sweet peppers stuffed with anchovies (page 241) along with
the oil-preserved tuna (page 288) that I prepare in summer, when albacore is in
season. For dinner, we might start with a minestra, or thick soup, of fava beans and
red onions (page 97), followed by baked sardines stuffed with breadcrumbs (page
166); or we might have fusilli, homemade “knitting-needle pasta," with a goat sauce
(page 85) or a spicy pork-rib sugo (page 88).
These are the dishes I grew up with in Verbicaro, before my parents emigrated
when I was fourteen. They are the dishes I continue to make in my Northern
California home, using the eggplants, tomatoes, and peppers from my garden; fresh
ricotta made from scratch; and pasta fashioned by hand.
When I was young, I didn't appreciate how clever Calabrian cooks were in making
so much from so little. With limited ingredients, they created a collection of dishes
of remarkably complex flavor. Simplicity is the cuisine’s hallmark, resourcefulness
the Calabrian cook's signature and strength. The food is bold and substantial, and
it speaks directly to hunger. In its artlessness, it is the opposite of the refined and
baroque cooking of Emilia-Romagna.
This is not to say that Calabrian cooks are unskilled—far from it. With only
flour and water—no egg—they make an astonishing number of pasta shapes by
hand. Their ragus are deeply flavorful, their homemade ricotta finer than anything
you can buy. They are master preservers, sun drying their garden vegetables for the
winter, preserving tuna under oil, and transforming tree-ripened figs into jam and
mandarin oranges into fragrant homemade liqueurs.
Calabria is the kingdom of the eggplant and tomato, where every cook knows
dozens of ways to prepare these vegetables, together and separately. Pork, lamb, and
goat are the dominant meats, roasted simply with wild herbs and potatoes, or made
into rustic, slow-cooked pasta sauces. The sea yields incomparable tuna and sword-
fish, anchovies and sardines, as well as octopus, clams, and mussels. The swordfish
may be steamed in a water bath with parsley, olive oil, and garlic in the method of
Bagnara (page 167); the sardines baked with breadcrumbs (page 166); the tuna or
swordfish prepared alla ghiotta ("glutton’s style") with tomato, olives, and capers
(page 175). Despite the abundant fresh fish, Calabrians have never lost a taste for salt
cod, and the Verbicaro preparation with dried sweet peppers (page 184) is sublime.
MY CALABRIA
Like the neighboring Sicilians, Calabrians have a sweet tooth and countless
ways to satisfy it. Many of the dolci are associated with saint's days and other spe-
cial occasions, when people would allow themselves a small indulgence, such the
chinule, or sweet chestnut ravioli (page 319), a Christmas specialty. Ice creams and
frozen semifreddi turn up in flavors Americans may never have imagined: chocolate
gelato with a pinch of hot red pepper (page 348); ricotta gelato (page 345); or gelato
flavored with Calabrian licorice (page 349).
These frugal people long ago learned how to make their summer abundance last
through the winter—by drying, salting, or fermenting the harvest, or preserving it
under oil. These preserves became treasured ingredients, essential in some dishes;
they are not “second best.” Braised rabbit with dried sweet peppers can be made
with fresh peppers (page 222), but it is just as tasty with the sun-dried sweet pep-
pers that my mother and I preserve in summer.
For much of my adult life, I mostly watched my mother in the kitchen and lent
a hand on occasion. I had a busy engineering career and no time for handmade
fusilli. But as she and my father aged, I began to realize how much would be lost
if Ididn't master these techniques and recipes and record them for others. Many
Calabrians and Calabrian-Americans of my generation have not maintained the
old ways and don't know how to make the dishes their mothers and grandmothers
made. Motivated by love for my native region and a desire to preserve its vanishing
culinary customs, I undertook the joyous task of assembling this book. I hope it
will encourage the immigrant sons and daughters of Calabria to be proud of their
heritage, to return for a visit, and to keep the food traditions alive. And I want to
introduce others to a region that merits exploring, for the beauty of its landscapes,
the appealing simplicity of its way of life, and the allure of its cuisine.
4 MY CALABRIA
the six miles up the mountain with a basket filled with food on her head, with a
coiled cloth rope underneath to soften the weight; she walked down carrying cheese
or vegetables. Repeatedly, local officials would announce that a road was imminent.
But every trip up and down that mountain was an aggravating reminder of yet
another broken government promise.
Still, my parents persisted with farming, and my childhood was a happy one.
At the mountain house, which had no electricity and no running water, I would
fetch our drinking and cooking water from a nearby stream in tin jugs. My mother
cooked in the fireplace in big copper pots, the smoke from the fire infusing my
father's cheeses, which he stored on a rack above the hearth. From the age of nine
or ten, I had my own little vegetable plot and proudly tended it in imitation of my
father. I recall the thrill of finding warm eggs under the chickens and the pleasure
of drinking fresh goat's milk for breakfast, still warm and frothy from the morn-
ing’s milking. I had a swing under the walnut tree, the riverbank to explore, and an
army of crickets to keep me amused.
Sometimes, my father would bring me wild raspberries from the distant pas-
tures where he took his goats. When that happened, I would beg to go with him the
next day so I could pick more raspberries myself. No, he would say, you're a girl
and your legs will get scratched. Finally I persuaded my mother to make me a pair
of pants so I could accompany my father to the wild raspberry patch.
We kept rabbits and chickens, raised a pig every year, and made our own olive oil.
My father’s land produced goat and lamb for our table; ricotta cheese and pecorino;
wine and vinegar; figs and nectarines, some of which we preserved; wheat for bread
and pasta; and endless vegetables. Neighbors in Verbicaro would buy the cheese
my mother hauled down the mountain. Remnants of the prewar barter economy
persisted in our community, with people trading oil for wine, or cheese for shoes.
Many people, my family included, were all but self-sufficient.
Although we had few material luxuries, our table was a daily source of pleasure
and abundance. My mother was a master of all the regional pasta shapes, from fusilli
(spaghetti-like strands fashioned around a knitting needle) to cavatelli (small curled
pasta shaped with two fingers). She made our bread—dense, sturdy loaves baked
in our wood-burning oven—and pitta, Calabria's signature stuffed pizza. With the
relentlessness of someone who remembered the hunger of the war years, when
even people with money could find no food to buy, she preserved all the fruits and
vegetables we couldn't eat fresh, either by packing them under oil or vinegar, or
by sun drying. She made golden frittatas with fresh eggs from our chickens, their
My hometown, Verbicaro. On the right is the old town, which is now largely abandoned. The
new buildings, on the left, were built after the 1960s. Many of these, too, are empty because it
is difficult to make a living in Verbicaro. My father’s farmhouse, where my mother and I stayed
with my father in the summer, was located behind the mountain, pictured here.
yolks the color of the sunrise; prepared thick bean soups flavored with pork skin;
and simmered tender Savoy cabbage from the garden with succulent pork ribs. On
holidays, we ate like royalty: baby goat or lamb for Easter, roasted to a turn with
rosemary and garlic; and the traditional salt cod feast at Christmas, ending with a
parade of honey-drizzled desserts and confections.
The 1960s, my childhood years, were relatively prosperous in Calabria, espe-
cially compared to the war years that both of my parents had endured. With the
men away in the military, Calabrian women had to maintain the farms, and suffer-
ing was widespread. Basic supplies from beyond the region, like sugar, boxed pasta,
and flour, became increasingly scarce. The Germans destroyed farms and vineyards,
and by 1944, the year my mother refers to as l'anno della fame (the year of hunger),
many Calabrians were able to prevent starvation only by foraging for wild greens,
MY CALABRIA
mushrooms, and herbs. The experience left people like my parents with a deep aver-
sion to waste and a profound respect for what nature provides.
In the grim postwar years, Calabrians left for America in droves, one of several
waves since Italy was unified in 1861. Many, like my great-grandfather, came at the
turn of the century, frustrated that the Italian South had not benefited economi-
cally from unification. They felt deceived, because they had been told so often that
unification would bring investment in infrastructure, a fairer distribution ofland,
and a decline in corruption.
After resettling and finding work, they would call their brothers and cousins
and urge them to come, too, sometimes lining up a job for them in advance, as my
uncles did for my father. As a result of this mass exodus, entire towns were practi-
cally erased from the face of Calabria. Verbicaro, my hometown, was once famous
for its red wine and its Zibibbo grapes, which were dried for raisins. But so many
people walked away from their vineyards that, by the 1950s, Verbicaro’'s glory days
had passed. By the 1960s, even the local cooperative, to which my dad sold his
grapes, was on the verge of collapse. Today, the historic quarter of Verbicaro, where
we lived, is essentially a ghost town, occupied largely by elderly women and cats.
It is hard to imagine how difficult it is for people who have hardly ever left their
town to leave their country. In Calabria, separated from the rest of Italy by moun-
tains and with more impenetrable mountains down its spine, families remained for
generations in the same place. Nevertheless, my parents began to consider leaving
Calabria. It seemed that the road into the mountains would never get built (they
were wrong about that), that they worked too hard for too little, and that their only
child would have a brighter future in America.
In 1974, when I was fourteen, they decided to join my mother’s brothers, who
had emigrated to California a decade before. By the standards of aCalabrian farmer,
who relied every year on the kindness of nature, my California uncles enjoyed
the good life. Each had a car and a comfortable home and a nine-to-five job with
a guaranteed paycheck. So my parents abandoned their land—there was no hope
for a sale—and we left for America, as my ancestors had done seventy-five years
before.
Resettled in Oakland, our family quickly adapted, but we never abandoned our
traditional ways. My mother still makes her bread with the starter she brought
from Calabria in her purse, shapes fusilli by hand (and has taught my children),
cures olives and fresh anchovies, and, with my help, puts up dozens of quarts of
homegrown peeled tomatoes every summer. My father maintains a garden behind
CALABRIA'S STORY
The history of Calabria is a tale of successive invasions and its people's stubborn
resistance to their conquerors. Among the few fortunate legacies from this unset-
tled past are the many foods and cooking methods introduced to the region by its
occupiers.
Archaeologists continue to find evidence in Calabria of an early human pres-
ence. In 1961, just outside the mountain village of Papasidero, northeast of Scalea,
researchers discovered a prehistoric cave—the grotta del Romito. At its entrance
was a large boulder finely incised with the image of a now-extinct bull, a draw-
ing believed to be twelve thousand years old and one of the earliest examples of
Paleolithic art in Italy.
By the Iron Age (1000 B.c.), the Enotrians had become the most powerful tribe
in the area. Receit archaeological finds suggest that the Enotrians made wine and
olive oil, well before the arrival of the Greeks, who often get the credit for bringing
the grape and the olive to Southern Italy.
But it was surely the Greeks who first brought Calabria to the forefront of
history. Beginning in the eighth century B.c., they founded many powerful cities
all along the Adriatic, Ionian, and Tyrrhenian coasts and gave this area the name
of Magna Graecia ("Greater Greece”). The modern cities of Reggio Calabria, Locri,
Crotone, and Sibari were all established by the Greeks and were major settlements
MY CALABRIA
of that era. Pythagoras, the eminent Greek mathematician and philosopher, settled
in Crotone and founded a school there. The Greeks brought honey, chick peas, and
figs to Calabria, expanded the planting of grapes and olives, and introduced many
grape varieties.
Calabria passed from the Greeks to the Romans, then successively to the
Byzantines, Lombards, Normans, Swabians, Angevins, and Aragonese. In 1504, the
French and the Spanish divided Italy between them, with Spain getting Calabria.
The Spanish conquest brought many evils, but it did introduce important foods to
Calabria from the Spanish territories of the New World, such as tomatoes, potatoes,
peppers, beans, sweet potatoes, prickly pear, and maize.
The Spanish ruled for two hundred years and sowed much discontent in Calabria
through their feudal system, which kept the landed gentry wealthy and the peasants
impoverished and virtually enslaved. Bourbon kings succeeded the Spanish and
ruled, with some interruptions, until 1860, when Garibaldi led the uprisings that
abolished the monarchy and helped unite Italy.
Over many centuries, since the fall of the Roman Empire, Calabrians had gradu-
ally abandoned the Greek settlements on the coast and moved to the mountains. They
were fleeing malaria and the repeated incursions of marauding invaders. As late as
the nineteenth century, the isolation of these mountain dwellers remained profound.
At the time of Italy's unification, in 1861, only one road traversed Calabria from
north to south, and the vast majority of towns were inaccessible by paved road.
Under a unified Italy, Southerners dared to hope for investment and progress,
but those hopes were soon dashed. Calabrians, for good reason, had long been suspi-
cious of government promises, but in the wake of unification, the disillusionment
was deep indeed, as the government appeared to do little to address the South's
economic troubles. In the last quarter of the nineteenth century, more than 275,000
Calabrians left Italy, many for North and South America. An even larger exodus
occurred in the first fifteen years of the new century, when more than 600,000
Calabrians emigrated.
Many of these immigrants were married men who expected to work for a few
years in the New World and eventually return to their families with a nest egg for
a farm or a business venture. In reality, few did return. The wives they left behind
were known as “white widows” because they effectively had no husbands, although
they weren't consigned to the dreary black garments of the true widow. Some small
Calabrian villages in the early twentieth century were virtually devoid of able-
bodied men. Occasionally, a husband would return for a brief family visit, staying
10 MY CALABRIA
Key Ingredients
ANCHOVIES
Among store-bought anchovies, my preference is whole anchovies layered in salt,
such as those packed by Agostino Recca in Sicily. Anchovy processors tend to put
their best-quality fish under salt. The second-tier fish are filleted and packed in olive
oil, and everything else becomes anchovy paste. Anchovies packed in salt remain
firm, moist, and meaty; they aren't at all fishy when fresh from the tin. But the
Recca tins are large—about three pounds—and most home cooks can't use all the
anchovies before they go rancid from exposure to air. To prevent rancidity, after
opening the tin, repack the anchovies in a clean, wide-mouth glass canning jar,
sprinkling sea salt or kosher salt between the layers. Covered and refrigerated, the
anchovies will keep indefinitely.
CANNED TOMATOES
I am fortunate to have a garden where I can grow my own tomatoes for canning,
but I realize that most people must rely on commercially canned tomatoes for much
of the year. I have sampled many brands of canned tomatoes in search of some I
can recommend. Most brands contain citric acid to lower the pH so the tomatoes
can be processed faster. Many also contain calcium chloride to keep the tomatoes
firm and attractive. But for Calabrian-style sauces, you don't want firm tomatoes;
you want them soft, so they collapse quickly into a sauce. Nor do you want the tart
taste of citric acid. I also dislike the thick tomato puree that surrounds most canned
tomatoes, preferring instead a tomato canned in its natural juices.
ual
In my experience, the best-tasting
canned tomatoes with the best texture
are Italian San Marzano tomatoes. These
are the ones J have used when testing any
recipes that call for canned tomatoes.
Become a label reader: look for brands
without citric acid or calcium chloride.
They should also say “San Marzano DOP”
on the label, a sign that the can contains
true San Marzano tomatoes that merit the
European Union's protected designation
of origin status. The San Marzano tomato
is an elongated plum-type tomato with a
thin skin and meaty flesh. You will find
that the recipes in this book work with
any canned plum-type tomato, but they
will taste best if made with San Marzano
DOP tomatoes with no additives. Seek September in Oakland means canning San
Marzano tomatoes from my garden for the
them out in specialty food stores and well- winter with my mother.
stocked supermarkets.
When using canned tomatoes, place them in a bowl and break them up well with
your fingers. Remove any fragments of skin or tough bits around the core. Unless
the recipe directs otherwise, use the entire contents of the can—the tomatoes and
the juices or puree surrounding them.
CANNED TUNA
Calabrians adore canned tuna. In markets there, the best-quality canned tuna is
costly and held in high regard. At the store, look for tuna packed in olive oil, pref-
erably from Calabria, Sicily, Spain, or Portugal. The Callipo brand from Calabria
is superb (see Resources, page 370). Top of the line is the tonno di tonnara, identi-
fied on the label as bluefin tuna, famous for its rich, dark meat. Callipo's yellowfin
tuna—what Americans call ahi and Italians simply call tonno—is also excellent,
identified on the label as “light tuna.”
If you can find it, buy tuna packed in glass jars so you can see for yourself
that the chunks are thick and firm. Lesser-quality tuna in tins may be mushy and
MY CALABRIA
reduced to flakes. For an occasional indulgence, invest in a jar of ventresca, or tuna
belly, the most succulent part of the fish. Save ventresca for salads, where you can
appreciate its silky texture.
Don't discard the oil from the tuna jar or tin without tasting it first. If it tastes
good, you can use it to replace some of the oil in a dish, such as in a dressing for
tomato salad or in a pasta sauce with tuna. Water-packed tuna is unsuitable for
Calabrian recipes.
CAPERS
The unopened flower buds of aMediterranean shrub (Capparis spinosa), capers are
harvested from spring through fall and processed with brine or salt to make a pun-
gent seasoning. Calabrian cooks value capers for the piquant, lightly salty taste they
add to seafood salads, pasta sauces, and breadcrumb-based stuffings for swordfish
and tuna. Caper use is greatest in the southernmost province of Reggio Calabria,
reflecting the influence of neighboring Sicily, a caper producer.
Some manufacturers pickle capers in brine; others pack them in salt to preserve
them. I prefer salt-packed capers as they have a pure, floral taste, unadulterated by
the vinegar in the brine. Salt-packed capers must be rinsed thoroughly or they can
make a dish too salty.
Both brined and salt-packed capers last indefinitely in the refrigerator. Rinse
brined capers well to minimize the vinegar taste; if they are large, chop them coarsely
before using.
DRIED OREGANO
In Calabria, no one grows oregano in a home garden, as it proliferates in the wild.
Foragers harvest the oregano when it flowers in July, dry it on the stem, and sell it
in large bunches at farmers’ markets and in local shops. Many Calabrians dry their
own oregano, collecting a year’s supply while on a hike or a summer picnic in the
country, then tying the stems together in bundles and hanging them upside down
in a shady spot to dry. Because the herb remains on the stem, it retains far more
aroma than the musty loose leaves available in jars in supermarkets.
If you grow oregano and would like to dry your own, harvest the herb while
it is in full flower, cutting it at the base so you have long stems. Bundle the stems
and tie them together with kitchen string. Hang the bundle upside down outdoors
KEY INGREDIENTS 13
in a shady spot, away from direct sun.
Depending on the weather, the leaves
will be fully dry in two to four weeks.
They should be stiff and dry enough to
crumble.
Keep dried oregano stems in a sealed
plastic bag in a cool, dark pantry. To use,
pull the flowers and leaves from the stem,
crushing them with your fingers to release
their aromatic oils. Alternatively, you
can pull all the flowers and leaves off the
stems, discard the stems, and store just
the flowers and leaves in an airtight bag
or glass jar. Calabrians do not consider
dried oregano a second-best alternative to
the fresh herb. In fact, we rarely use fresh
oregano, preferring the intense aroma of
the herb after it is dried. Drying fresh oregano in my backyard
in Oakland
FLOUR
I use unbleached all-purpose flour for all my pasta and bread doughs and pastry
making. I prefer to weigh flour for these recipes because it is more accurate than
measuring the volume, but I have provided both weight and volume measures. To
measure flour accurately, spoon it into a measuring cup, overfilling the cup slightly,
then use a table knife to scrape off the excess. Don't use the cup to scoop flour out
of a bag, or you will pack the flour and your measure will not be equivalent to mine
in weight.
OLIVE OIL
Extra virgin olive oil is the flavor base of the Calabrian kitchen. We use it liberally as
an ingredient, not in drizzles as a finishing oil. Olive trees cover almost 25 percent
of the arable land in Calabria, so the oil from these widespread trees is not consid-
ered precious or something to use with restraint.
In my California kitchen, I use only extra virgin, whether I am sautéing, deep-
14 MY CALABRIA
frying, or making a salad dressing. Although many people think you can't deep-fry
in extra virgin olive oil—that the oil will break down when heated high enough for
frying—that is not true. You can heat extra virgin olive oil to 375°F (190°C), the
temperature I use for virtually all fried foods, and it does not break down. Its smok-
ing point is between 400°F and 420°F (205°C to 215°C).
Extra virgin olive oil, which is extracted without heat or chemicals, does cost
more than refined olive oil, but I believe the extra money is well spent. Extra virgin
olive oil has considerably more flavor and more antioxidants, which means it deliv-
ers more health benefits. You don't need to pay a fortune for it, as you would if
you bought only the fancy 750-milliliter bottles at specialty stores. Ethnic markets
often sell extra virgin olive oil from Italy or other Mediterranean countries at an
affordable price, typically in three-liter tins. Keep olive oil in a cool, dark place. It
deteriorates quickly when exposed to heat or light.
Calabria produces more olive oil than any other Italian region except for
Puglia, but only 30 percent of its production is extra virgin. Until recent times,
most Calabrian growers managed their orchards for quantity, not quality, and few
growers bottled their own oil. Instead, they sold it in bulk and it vanished into a
blend—no doubt labeled, in some instances, as the more prized Tuscan oil.
Today, the Calabrian olive oil industry is in transition, with many producers
putting quality first and planting new orchards accordingly. The old indigenous
Calabrian olive varieties—Carolea, Tondina, and Dolce di Rossano, among others—
produce a sweet, buttery oil with little piquancy. The progressive producers are now
planting varieties from other parts ofItaly, such as the Coratina from Puglia and the
Frantoio from Tuscany, that are capable of yielding a more perfumed and piquant
oil with longer shelf life.
The European Union has granted two areas of Calabria the coveted DOP (deno-
minazione di origine protetta, or protected designation of origin) status for extra
virgin olive oil, similar to an appellation for wine. The two DOP zones are Bruzio
(from the province of Cosenza) and Lamezia (from the province of Catanzaro), and
as the region's oil quality improves, I expect that America will see more of these
smooth and mellow oils.
KEY INGREDIENTS LS
taste. Calabria’s mountainous landscape, with its limited pasture, is more hospita-
ble to sheep than to cows, so the regional preference veers naturally to sheep's milk
cheeses. Although Calabrians enjoy pecorino cheese as a sliceable table cheese when
it is young and mellow, the cheese used for grating over pasta and soups comes from
an aged wheel. These wheels may be anywhere from three to twelve months old,
becoming progressively drier, saltier, more piquant and concentrated in flavor as
they age. For a Calabrian, many pasta and vegetables dishes taste incomplete until
they are showered with freshly grated aged pecorino.
The pecorino romano sold in the United States can be excessively salty, so taste
before you buy, if possible. If you can't find Calabrian pecorino, look for the widely
available Locatelli brand; it is less salty than most and a good choice for Calabrian
cooking.
The fine holes on a four-sided box grater are ideal for grating aged pecorino. A
Microplane grates the cheese too fine for my taste.
POLENTA
Most Calabrians use fine cornmeal for polenta, not the coarse cornmeal that is
commonly labeled as polenta in the United States. Any American brand of fine
cornmeal, white or yellow, stoneground or not, will work well in Calabrian recipes.
I successfully tested recipes with Albers, a brand widely available on the West Coast.
With Italian brands such as Moretti (page 369), look for packages labeled as “corn
flour." Despite its name, this product has the texture of American cornmeal and is
suitable for the polenta recipes in this book.
16 MY CALABRIA
dried red peppers whole, and we grind
some (see page 303). The ground hot red
pepper available at Indian markets, often
labeled simply “ground chili,” is the clos-
est substitute. Red pepper flakes are too
coarse; cayenne pepper would be a better
choice. Thai bird peppers, red and green,
or fresh cayenne peppers are the best
approximation of the fresh hot peppers
in my garden. We use the same word—
peperoncino—for a fresh hot pepper, a
dried hot pepper, and ground hot red
pepper. Throughout this book, I have
used the phrase “ground hot red pepper”
rather than “ground chili” for fear that
people might mistakenly use chili powder,
a seasoning blend that is not appropriate.
Pepe rosso—literally, “red pepper"”—
Homegrown peperoncini, our beloved resembles mild Spanish paprika but it is
Calabrian hot peppers, from our garden
im Oukiind sweeter. It contributes a mellow pepper
flavor and rich, brick-red color to many
dishes, such as Spicy Braised Rabbit with Sweet Peppers and Oregano (page 222).
My mother and I make it ourselves (page 304) from the long sweet Italian peppers
that my father grows. Mild, unsmoked Spanish paprika is the closest substitute. For
the recipes in this book, I have translated pepe rosso as Calabrian paprika.
SALT
I use only Diamond Crystal kosher salt in cooking, as it contains no additives and
has aclean, unadulterated taste. Sea salt, also additive free, is another good choice,
but it tends to be more expensive. Table salt contains additives to prevent it from
clumping, and it is finer than kosher salt, so 1 teaspoon of table salt will be saltier
than 1 teaspoon of kosher salt.
All the salt measurements in this book are based on Diamond Crystal kosher
salt and may not be accurate for other salts that are finer or coarser.
KEY INGREDIENTS
SALT COD
The thick, meaty salt cod (baccala) that Calabrians adore comes primarily from
Norway and Iceland, prepared from fish caught in the frigid waters of the North
Atlantic. Perhaps because Calabrians are such avid consumers and thus discrimi-
nating about quality, they get excellent salt cod—thick, moist, white fillets that take
only two or three days to rehydrate (see “To soak salt cod," page 184). If you travel
to Calabria, leave room in your suitcase for salt cod, as it is much finer than the
products available in the United States—and less costly, too. You can freeze it ina
heavy-duty plastic storage bag without loss of quality for up to one year.
I am often disappointed by the salt cod I purchase in California, which comes
mostly from Nova Scotia or other parts of Canada. Packers tend to put a single
attractive piece on the top of the package, and scraps or thin tail pieces underneath.
I have found the best quality at Italian, Spanish, and Portuguese markets, where you
can often buy a whole side and examine it for quality—difficult when the salt cod
is packed in a wooden box. In my experience, the best salt cod comes from Norway
and still has the skin attached. I usually leave the skin on when I cook salt cod, as
it has a gelatinous quality and contributes body to the sauce, but you can remove it
after soaking the fish and before cooking ifyou like.
Good salt cod is white, not yellowish, and the center fillet should be thick. Read
the label carefully or ask the merchant to make sure you are buying cod. I have seen
packages labeled as baccala but identified as haddock on the ingredient list.
MY CALABRIA
A NOTE ABOUT THE WINE SELECTIONS
Shelley Lindgren, co-proprietor of A16 and SPQR restaurants in San Francisco,
developed the wine suggestions for the recipes in this book. Lindgren restricted her
selections to wines from Southern Italy that are available in the United States, a
category that is rapidly growing. Even so, many of these wines have limited distribu-
tion, so Lindgren has also suggested a more widely available alternative. Although
she is deeply knowledgeable about the region, many readers may be confused by the
unfamiliar winery names, grape names, and appellations. For clarity, here is the
format she followed in listing the wines:
Pictured on left: A Calabrian antipasti table (clockwise from top): crostini with bottarga;
preserved zucchini; crostini with fresh sardines; cracked green olives; preserved green tomatoes;
eggplant meatballs
Even the salumi (cured meats), cheeses, and vegetables preserved under oil or
vinegar that commonly comprise an antipasto course today were not used in that
way historically. Calabrians of my father’s generation would have a little sliced
prosciutto or cured sausage for their second course at dinner, alongside a frittata
perhaps, with a salad to follow. Even today, my parents and their contemporaries
view their home-preserved vegetables as a room-temperature side dish or salad to
have with their second course, not as an antipasto.
When I was a child, my mother would give me a slice of homemade bread spread
with warm tomato sauce to keep me quiet until dinner was ready. In summer, I
would fetch a ripe tomato from the garden, cut it in half, and rub it all over a slice
of bread until only the skin remained in my hand. With a pinch of salt on top, it
made a snack I love to this day. Sometimes my mother would appease her hungry
only child with homemade friselle (Calabrian rusks) topped with olive oil, oregano,
and garlic (page 35), a wholesome nibble that I often make for my children today
when they come home from school. We didn't think we were eating antipasti in
those days, but any of these snacks would be appropriate on a Calabrian antipasto
platter today.
Traveling through Calabria, you will see some regional variation in the antipasti
being offered. In the mountainous region of La Sila, a typical platter might include
wild mushrooms preserved under oil (page 283); local prosciutto, soppressata, or
salsiccia Calabrese (cured spicy sausage); cracked green olives; breadcrumb-stuffed
zucchini; and a slice of the local Caciocavallo cheese. On the east coast, around
Crotone and Ciré, an antipasto platter is almost certain to include sardella (page
42), a fiery seafood and red pepper condiment typically spread on crostini. On the
west coast, in the region of Vibo Valentia, crostini are topped instead with 'nduja
(page 199), a preserved pork spread similar to French rillettes but spicy. 'Nduja is a
specialty of Spilinga, a village just south of Tropea, and you should go out of your
way to try it in Calabria because you will probably not find it in the United States.
The restaurants on the Tyrrhenian coast are the place to sample a variety of
ocean-based antipasti, such as fritters with anchovies, seaweed, or the tiny newborn
fish known as neonate; buttered crostini with bottarga (page 42), preserved tuna roe;
and the now trendy carpaccio made with swordfish or octopus. Fragaglia is another
dish to look for on restaurant menus on the Tyrrhenian coast. It's a fritto misto of
small whole fish—whatever the sea provides—presented hot, crisp, and crunchy,
and eaten whole, bones and all.
In addition to the antipasti in this chapter, many of the traditional Calabrian
22 MY CALABRIA
preserves make appropriate additions to an antipasto course. Don't hesitate to
borrow from that collection to enhance an antipasto platter or buffet. Consider
Green Tomatoes Preserved in Oil (page 279); Pickled Eggplant Preserved in Oil with
Hot Peppers, Wild Fennel, and Garlic (page 281); or Fresh Tuna Preserved Under
Oil (page 288). Some recipes from this book's vegetable chapter also make excellent
antipasti, such as Sun-Dried Zucchini with Calabrian Paprika (page 248) and Fried
Cauliflower (page 266).
Accompany your antipasti with My Family's Everyday Bread (page 119) or
another dense and crusty loaf, and your Calabrian meal will be off to a fine start.
ANTIPASTI 23
Olive Verde Schiacciate
CRACKED GREEN OLIVES WITH FENNEL AND HOT PEPPER
All fresh olives are green when unripe, darkening to purple, reddish-brown, or
black when fully ripe. Whether green or ripe, most varieties are intensely bitter,
and that bitterness must be extracted to make the olives edible.
To cure green (unripe) olives, most Calabrians crack them and remove the pits,
then use daily changes of water to leach out the bitter compounds. Pitting them
accelerates the leaching, which might otherwise drag on for weeks. Once most of the
bitterness is gone, the olives spend a day in salt water to season them. Then they are
drained and weighted to remove the excess water that would hasten their spoilage.
In the old days, Calabrians would dress them at this point with olive oil, wild
fennel seed, hot peppers, and garlic, and keep them in the pantry with a weight
on top so the olives were submerged in oil. Even so, they were only enjoyable for a
few weeks, as they would gradually soften. Most people would consume their green
olives by Christmas and then move on to their ripe black olives (page 27).
Today, I freeze the cured olives in
plastic freezer bags and thaw them only
as I need them. You can freeze them
dressed or undressed; it makes no differ-
ence. Once dressed, these glistening green
olives are firm, even a little crunchy, and
infused with their spicy seasoning. They
have a clean, faintly bitter taste, without
the lush oiliness ofa ripe olive. Compared
to store-bought green olives, which often
taste too briny and overdressed with
tired herbs, these homemade olives have
a fresher taste, with more vivid season-
ing. Because they don't have pits, we don't
eat them one at a time, as you would con-
sume an unpitted olive. Instead we scoop
them onto a slice of bread or eat them by
the spoonful, as you might eat marinated
chick peas. Although American markets
Cracked Green Olives
MY CALABRIA
sell so-called cracked olives that have merely been slashed, not pitted, to a Calabrian
an olive schiacciate, or crushed olive, has had the pit removed.
In both Calabria and California, green olives are usually ready to pick in October,
depending on the year. They should be fully green and unblemished, with no sign
that they are beginning to ripen to black. In California, you can sometimes find
fresh green olives in the fall at farmers’ markets and specialty produce markets.
You can also order them online (see Resources, page 369). Choose a medium to large
variety, such as Manzanilla. Extra-large California olives, sometimes identified as
“Colossal,” are hard to pit without crushing them and are not typical of what you
would find in Calabria. If you can't locate fresh olives or don't want to bother curing
them, you can use the same dressing on cracked and pitted Picholine or Lucques
olives or other store-bought green olives.
Kosher salt
¥%, cup (175 milliliters) extra virgin olive oil
1% teaspoons wild fennel seeds (page 215) or store-bought fennel seeds
6 small fresh hot red peppers, such as cayenne or Thai, sliced
6 garlic cloves, sliced
WITH A HAMMER or meat mallet, crack each olive just enough to remove the
pit; you want to keep the olives as intact as possible. Remove the pits and place the
olives in a plastic container full of cold water. If you are curing a large quantity of
olives, use a plastic food-grade bucket. The olives must be placed in water immedi-
ately after you crack them or they will turn dark.
Keep the olives submerged by placing a plate directly on top. One easy way to
keep the olives together and submerged is to pack them in a mesh bag like the ones
ANTIPASTI 25
that onions and oranges are often packed in at the supermarket. Tie the bag shut,
submerge in the water, and place a weight on top.
Keep the olives at room temperature, changing the water every day until the
olives no longer taste bitter when you sample them. This process can take ten to
twelve days. On the final day, drain the olives in a sieve set over a bowl. Measure the
volume of water. Fill a bowl with the same volume of fresh water and add kosher salt
in the ratio of% cup (105 grams) salt to 1 gallon (4 liters) of water, stirring until the
salt dissolves. Discard the previously used water. Submerge the olives in the freshly
mixed salt water and let stand for 24 hours to season them.
Drain the olives and place in a colander. Top with a weight, such as a heavy
plastic bucket filled with water, and let stand for 8 to 10 hours to extract as much
water from the olives as possible.
At this point you can dress them or freeze them in plastic freezer storage bags
for future use. Thaw frozen olives before dressing them.
To dress the olives, place them in a small bowl and toss with olive oil, fennel
seeds, peppers, and garlic. For best flavor, let the dressed olives stand for a few
hours before serving.
26 MY CALABRIA
Olive Nere Secche con Peperoncino
DRY-CURED BLACK OLIVES WITH HOT RED PEPPER AND FENNEL
The olives on my parents’ trees in Calabria would ripen fully in December, turning
black and beginning to fall from the tree. My mother remembers them being mild
enough to eat without curing, but that is not the case with the fresh ripe olives I find
in California. They are bitter and must be salted to leach out the bitter juices.
Dry curing is a method of de-bittering ripe olives with dry salt, as opposed to a
wet brine. Over a period of about two weeks, the salt draws out the moisture, the
olives shrivel, and the bitterness diminishes. When I am satisfied with the way they
taste, I put them in the freezer. I thaw a cup or two as needed, then season them
with olive oil, garlic, fennel seeds, and hot pepper. Despite being cured in salt, these
olives aren't overly salty; they are mellow, oily, soft, and rich. With a platter of sliced
cured meats, such as soppressata or prosciutto, they make an instant antipasto.
California markets sometimes carry ripe olives in the late fall. You can also
mail-order them (see Resources, page 369). You can cure any variety, but if you
have a choice, choose a medium-size olive, not the so-called jumbo or colossal types,
which may take a long time to cure. You can also use this marinade on store-bought
dry-cured olives as long as they are not already seasoned with herbs and spices.
SEASONING
ANTIPASTI
TO DRY-CURE FRESH OLIVES: Rinse the olives well. Drain and place in a
bow] without drying them so they are still moist. Add the salt and toss to coat well.
Keep the olives at room temperature, uncovered, and toss them two to three times a
day over the next five days to encourage the salt to dissolve. After five days, place the
olives in a single layer on a piece of plain cardboard or on a baking sheet lined with
the heavy brown paper from a deconstructed grocery bag. Do not use an aluminum
baking sheet as the salt will etch it.
Once a day, turn the olives to help the drying process. Continue drying and
turning them daily until the olives have shriveled and no longer taste bitter, a pro-
cess that may take two weeks.
Transfer the olives to heavy-duty freezer bags and store in the freezer. To season
and serve, thaw only as many as you need, allowing one day to thaw. After season-
ing, the olives can be kept at room temperature for two days.
TO SEASON DRY-CURED OLIVES: Place the olives in a bowl and toss with the
olive oil, garlic, paprika, and hot pepper. If using store-bought fennel seeds, crush
them lightly in a mortar before adding to the bowl. If using the smaller wild fennel
seeds, add to the bowl without crushing them. Let stand for at least 4 hours or up
to one day before serving.
28 MY CALABRIA
Fave Arrappate
FAVAS AND OLIVES
The tiny mountaintop village of Civita, near Castrovillari, is a required stop for
anyone who wants to know more about the history of the Arbéresh people in
Calabria. A small museum in the town preserves costumes, tools, and photos that
help illuminate the way of life of these Calabrians of Albanian descent (page 62).
Just around the corner from the museum, Ristorante Kamastra serves excellent
local food, including a few Arbéresh dishes and this unusual appetizer. Fave arrap-
pate means “wrinkled favas,” although only the olives are wrinkled. The dried favas
are boiled, then cooled and tossed with dry-cured olives, olive oil, garlic, and hot
red pepper. I think the combination is a nice change of pace from the predictable
bowl of olives before dinner.
DRAIN THE BEANS and put them in a 4-quart (4-liter) pot with 2 quarts (2
liters) cold water. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, then reduce the heat and
simmer until the beans are barely tender; they should still be firm but not chalky.
Begin testing them after about 40 minutes. Add the salt and let the beans cool in
the liquid.
Drain the beans and put them in a bow] with the olives, garlic, olive oil, and hot
pepper. Toss to coat the beans and olives with the seasonings. Taste and add salt if
desired. Cover the bowl and let stand at room temperature for 12 to 24 hours before
serving. Stir occasionally to redistribute the seasonings.
ANTIPASTI 29
Alici Marinate
MARINATED FRESH ANCHOVIES WITH RED ONION AND PARSLEY
Many summer meals in Calabria start with a plate of marinated fresh anchovies in
olive oil and some sturdy sliced country bread..These are not the familiar tinned
anchovies but fresh fish that have been filleted, lightly pickled in vinegar until they
turn white, then bathed in olive oil and garnished with chopped onion, parsley, and
other seasonings. To make them successfully, you need absolutely fresh anchovies,
no more than a day out of the water. Fish markets don't carry them often, but some
fishmongers will order them for you.
CLEAN THE ANCHOVIES as directed on page 31. Remove the backbone from
each anchovy by grasping the end of the backbone closest to the head and lifting it
out. It usually pulls away cleanly from the flesh, although sometimes it clings. If it
does cling, gently work the backbone free with your fingers, damaging the flesh as
little as possible. Separate the boneless anchovy into two fillets.
Layer the anchovy fillets, skin side down, in a 9-inch-square (23-centimeter-
square) glass or ceramic dish, or an oval dish of comparable volume. Sprinkle each
layer evenly with salt. Cover with vinegar and lemon juice, submerging them com-
pletely. Cover the dish with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 8 hours.
Drain the vinegar and lemon juice completely. Pat the anchovies dry with paper
towels. Wash and dry the container. Return the anchovies to the clean container and
add enough olive oil to submerge the fillets. Cover the dish with plastic wrap and
refrigerate for at least 24 hours or up to 4 days.
MY CALABRIA
To serve, arrange on serving plates and sprinkle with red onion, parsley, and
hot pepper to taste.
SERVES 8 TO 10
ANTIPASTI 31
Polpette di Melanzane
CRISPY EGGPLANT MEATBALLS
These meatless “meatballs” are found in both Calabria and Sicily, but Sicilians would
add currants and pine nuts. In parts of Calabria, cooks tuck a cube of Caciocavallo
cheese inside each ball. Some cooks omit the fine breadcrumbs on the outside, but
I like the contrast of crunchy coating and creamy interior. Eggplant polpette make
a great appetizer for a stand-up party because they are bite-size and can be eaten
with your fingers. They look exactly like meatballs, and when the budget is tight,
Calabrian cooks will simmer them (without the breadcrumb coating) in tomato
sauce (see Variation, page 33). They serve them as a second course, following pasta
tossed with the tomato sauce.
SUGGESTED WINE: Fattoria San Francesco “Ronco dei Quattroventi," Cird Rosso Classico,
Calabria
A modern-styled, medium-bodied red wine with tomato, mint, and cranberry aromas similar to
those in Pinot Noir.
ALTERNATE: Pinot Noir
MY CALABRIA
cool, then press on the eggplant with a wooden spoon to remove excess water. The
eggplant should be as dry as possible. Very finely chop by hand.
In a bowl, combine the eggplant, fresh breadcrumbs, cheese, parsley, and garlic.
Blend the ingredients gently with a fork, then season to taste with salt and pepper.
Mix the egg in thoroughly. In a small skillet lightly coated with olive oil, fry a table-
spoon of the mixture and taste for seasoning.
Working with a little of the mixture at a time, roll between your palms into
small balls about 1 inch (2% centimeters) in diameter and set them on a tray. If the
mixture is too moist to roll easily, stir in a few more fresh breadcrumbs. Put the
fine breadcrumbs in a small bowl, roll each ball in the crumbs to coat evenly, then
set the coated balls aside on a clean tray.
Pour olive oil in a 10-inch (25-centimeter) skillet to a depth of % inch (22 mil-
limeters). Don't skimp on the oil or the meatballs won't fry properly. Turn the heat
to medium. When the oil begins to shimmer, put a test ball in the skillet; it should
sizzle immediately. If not, let the oil heat a little longer. When the oil is ready,
carefully place half the balls in the skillet. They should fit in a single layer without
crowding.
Fry the balls, turning them gently with a spoon so as not to break them, until
deeply browned all over, about 3 minutes total. With a slotted spoon, transfer the
balls as they are done to a tray lined with paper towels. Repeat with the remaining
balls. Let cool for about 10 minutes, then serve.
Variation
Make a double batch of Quick Tomato Sauce (page 53). Shape the balls but do not coat
them with fine breadcrumbs. Fry them in olive oil as directed above, then simmer
them, uncovered, in the sauce over medium heat for 10 minutes. Boil one pound
(450 grams) oflong or short pasta, such as spaghetti or penne, drain, and toss with
about 1% cups (355 milliliters) of the sauce and some freshly grated pecorino cheese.
ANTIPASTI 33
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Friselle con Pomodoro Crudo
CALABRIAN RUSKS WITH FRESH TOMATO AND GARLIC TOPPING
Friselle, the long-keeping dry toasts, or rusks, that Calabrians make from bread
dough, come to life when soaked in water and spread with a juicy topping. In
my house, we consume endless friselle in summer, when I can blanket them with
chopped fresh tomato and basil. I know of no more appealing warm-weather lunch.
The garlicky tomato juices and olive oil seep into the friselle, which trap them like
a sponge.
Friselle are rock hard and must be soaked just long enough to make them tender
but not so soft that they fall apart. They must be served within a few minutes or they
will continue to soften until they can no longer support the topping. My children
love friselle as an after-school snack dressed only with fruity green olive oil, oregano,
and salt, as described in the Variation below. Calabrians consider friselle to be finger
food, eaten by breaking off one small chunk at a time. If you don't have friselle on
hand, you can use this tomato topping on bruschetta. Alternatively, you can make
Quick Friselle (page 130) using store-bought ciabatta, the flat Italian loaf.
IN A BOWL, combine the tomatoes, basil, garlic, olive oil, and red pepper, if
ANTIPASTI
be tender enough to eat without crunching, but not mushy. The bottom halves tend
to need more soaking time than the top halves. Drain and top each rusk with some
of the tomato mixture, dividing it evenly. Serve immediately.
SERVES 4 TO 6
36 MY CALABRIA
Pipi ‘Mpajanati
CALABRIAN SWEET PEPPER FRITTERS
Every summer, Calabrians harvest some of the elongated sweet red peppers in their
gardens and dry them for the winter months (page 293). Drying concentrates the
peppers’ flavor and allows them to last through the winter, so they can contribute
their sweet intensity to cold-weather sauces and stews. Rehydrated to soften them,
the peppers also turn up in the savory fritters known as pipi ‘mpajanati, a spe-
cialty of my hometown of Verbicaro that roughly translates as “peppers wrapped
in dough.”
For pipi ‘mpajanati, the yeast-risen batter completely encases a strip of the pliant
pepper. You don't see the pepper until you bite into the hot, crisp fritter. In my
favorite variation (see Variation, page 38), an anchovy fillet is tucked inside the
pepper, so there's a second surprise.
In restaurants, you will find some of the other fritters that Calabrians enjoy.
Sometimes called frittelle, they may contain anchovies alone or, in season, whole
zucchini blossoms or thinly sliced raw artichokes. Along the coast, cooks will chop
fresh seaweed and fold it into the batter to make a golden fritter with the saline
taste of the sea. At La Tartana restaurant in Cirella, a beach town on the Tyrrhenian
coast, the waiters bring every table a complimentary appetizer offrittelle con alghe,
seaweed fritters, the perfect nibble to inaugurate a seafood meal.
ANTIPASTI 37
IN A LARGE BOWL, stir together the flour, yeast, and salt. Add the water and stir
with your hand or a wooden spoon until the mixture is smooth and well blended.
It will be moist, more like a batter than a dough. Cover the bow] with plastic wrap
and set in a warm place. Let rise until doubled in volume and bubbly on top, about
1% hours.
Cut the dried peppers in half and remove the seeds. Bring a pot of water to a
boil. Add the peppers and cook for one minute to soften them. Drain and place ina
bowl of cold water until cool, then drain again and squeeze them gently to remove
excess water.
Heat the 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large skillet and add the whole garlic cloves.
When the garlic is golden all over, add the peppers, season with salt, and sauté
briefly so the peppers pick up the flavors of the garlic oil. Set aside.
To fry the fritters, set a 10-inch (25-centimeter) skillet over moderately high
heat. Add enough olive oil to come % inch (6 millimeters) up the side of the pan.
When you think the oil is hot enough, test with a few drops of batter; the batter
should sizzle on contact.
Uncover the batter and place a pepper directly on the batter's surface. Using
a large spoon, scoop some batter over the pepper to enclose it in the batter. Then
gently scoop the fully batter-coated pepper into the hot oil. Repeat until you fill the
skillet with fritters, but do not overcrowd it.
Fry the fritters, turning them with a fork or slotted spoon, until they are golden
on all sides, 3 to 4 minutes total. Transfer them as they are done to a paper towel-
lined platter. Continue until you have used up the peppers and batter, adding more
oil if needed to maintain a depth of % inch (6 millimeters). Sprinkle the fritters
with salt and serve hot.
38 MY CALABRIA
Crostini di Pesce
WARM SEAFOOD CROSTINI
Italians use the term pesce azzurro—literally, “blue fish"—to describe fresh ancho-
vies, sardines, and mackerel because of the blue tone of their skin. In Calabria,
cooks use these three fish interchangeably in some recipes, although mackerel are
bigger and have a stronger taste. This warm fish topping for toasts can be made
with any of these three pesci azzurri, but I like it best with anchovies, which are
the smallest and mildest. The boneless fillets cook through almost as soon as they
hit the sauté pan. Then I shred them fine with olive oil and garlic and mound the
resulting paste on slices of warm, garlic-rubbed baguette. My cooking students, who
for the most part have used only tinned anchovies, are often surprised that fresh
anchovies are so delicate.
Serve as a stand-up appetizer with a glass of white wine or rosé.
TOASTS
TOPPING
ANTIPASTI 39
CLEAN THE ANCHOVIES or sardines according to the directions on page 31.
Remove the backbone from each fish by grasping the end of the backbone closest
to the head and lifting it out. It usually pulls away cleanly from the flesh, although
sometimes it clings. If it does cling, gently work the backbone free with your fingers,
damaging the flesh as little as possible. Separate the boneless fish into two fillets.
PREPARE THE TOASTS: Preheat the broiler and position a rack 3 to 4 inches (8
to 10 centimeters) from the element. Brush the baguette slices on both sides with
the olive oil. Place on a baking sheet and broil, turning once, until the slices are just
beginning to color around the edges, about one minute per side. Do not overtoast
them or they will be too hard. Let cool for a couple of minutes, then rub one side of
each toast with the cut clove of garlic.
PREPARE THE TOPPING: Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a 10-inch (25-
centimeter) skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and parsley and sauté briefly
to release the garlic fragrance. Add the fish fillets and the salt and raise the heat to
high. Cook briskly, stirring with a fork and mashing the fish until the flesh breaks
up and becomes pastelike, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in
the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and the lemon juice. Season to taste with hot
pepper and add more lemon juice if the dish needs a little more spark.
Divide the warm topping among the toasts, spreading it in an even layer. Serve
immediately.
40 MY CALABRIA
Tartine al Burro di Bottarga
CROSTINI WITH BOTTARGA BUTTER
A bottarga producer near the town of Pizzo gave me a small sheet of recipes when
she sold me her product, and this simple idea was among them. Using a Microplane
or cheese grater, I grate enough bottarga—pressed and dried tuna roe—to turn
softened butter salmon pink and give it the taste of the sea. Spread on a slice of
fresh baguette, it makes a quickly assembled accompaniment to a pre-dinner glass
of Prosecco or a cocktail. You can double or triple the recipe and freeze the flavored
butter for future use. Bottarga butter is delicious on grilled fish, on fresh pasta, or
stirred into a seafood risotto.
IN A SMALL BOWL, mash the butter with a fork or the back of a spoon until
smooth. Add the bottarga and blend it in thoroughly. Spread about 1 teaspoon of
the seasoned butter evenly on each slice of bread. Top with a little additional grated
bottarga and serve.
SERVES 6
ANTIPASTI 41
Two Calabrian Caviars
Every May and June, the female bluefin tuna approach the Gulf of Saint Eufemia, on
Calabria’s Tyrrhenian coast, in search of warm, nutrient-rich water for their eggs.
If fishermen catch them first, their two plump egg sacs will be quickly removed,
destined to become one of Calabria’s great seafood delicacies: bottarga di tonno. Rosa
Fanfullo, who makes excellent bottarga and sells it from her modest roadside shop
in Pizzo (see Resources, page 370), described her method to me.
The egg sacs, which can weigh several pounds each, are washed well to rid them
of blood, then brined for a day. After removing them from the brine, Fanfullo
arranges the egg sacs ona table in a single layer, covers them thickly with sea salt,
and places a board on top. Then she repeats the layering, stacking egg sacs, salt, and
boards several layers high. The boards press the sacs, helping flatten and firm them.
After fifteen days, she unpacks the stacks, discards the used salt, and repeats the
layering process.
The egg sacs remain in the salt for about another three weeks. Then she brushes
them off and air dries them for eight to ten days. By that time, the bottarga will be
as firm, compact, and dry as a cured sausage. In fact, some people jokingly refer to
it as soppressata Calabrese. Each sac will have lost 50 to 80 percent of its weight. The
color will be a rosy tan, the color of canned tuna, and the aroma and flavor that of
the sea.
This caviale, or tuna caviar, is understandably costly and held in esteem. After
all, only female tuna have ovaries, and they have only two. To serve, the bottarga
is grated into fine crumbs or shaved with a knife or vegetable peeler. It is added to
dishes at the last moment and never cooked, which would destroy its delicate, briny
flavor. Thinly sliced bottarga may be dressed with olive oil, lemon juice, a sprinkle
of parsley, and pinch of hot pepper and served with bread. It can be shaved over
beans, tomato salad, seafood pasta, or a grilled steak—anywhere an anchovy-like
burst of flavor would be welcome. Although you can buy bottarga already grated,
you will experience much more ofits heady aroma by buying a whole one and grat-
ing or shaving it yourself as needed.
Peel back just enough ofthe thin skin to grate or shave as much bottarga as you
need. Rewrap leftover bottarga well in plastic wrap and refrigerate. It will keep for
months.
In contrast to bottarga, the caviale dei poveri (“caviar of the poor”) has nothing
to do with fish eggs and is thus not caviar by anyone's definition. But like bottarga,
it demonstrates the Calabrian ingenuity for preserving the sea's bounty under salt.
42 MY CALABRIA
Called sardella on the Ionic coast and rosamarina on the Tyrrhenian side, this bold
condiment is made by brining some of the tiniest fish in the sea— newborn ancho-
vies and sardines—and then packing them in a paste of hot red pepper and salt.
Some people add pepe rosso (Calabrian sweet paprika) and wild fennel seed. Sardella
is ready to eat after one month but will last in the refrigerator for up to one year.
When ready to consume, sardella is a fiery, brick-red spread that Calabrians eat
on crostini, add to a tomato sauce for pasta, or use as a filling for pitta, the Calabrian
stuffed pizza. The ingredients cost little, and the curing method is simple. For the
Calabrian peasant of times past, the pungent sardella provided an affordable way to
break the monotony of the daily diet.
Sardella is a kitchen staple on Calabria’s east coast, where it is also called mus-
tica. Many people still make it at home or buy it in bulk from a local producer, and
some restaurants make their own. At the Ristorante Max in Cird Marina, north of
Crotone, the sardella is housemade and the chef serves it in the traditional fashion,
with sliced red onion and tomato wedges. The diner spreads some sardella on a piece
of bread, then tops it with onion and tomato, an only-in-Calabria antipasto.
Shops all over Calabria sell sardella, sometimes labeled caviale Calabrese or caviale
del Sud (caviar of the South). It makes a fine souvenir. Fortunately, Calabrians have
acknowledged in recent years that the unregulated harvest of neonate, the baby
fish used for sardella, harms the ocean ecosystem. As a result, they have severely
restricted the fishing season, which lasts only from February to April.
ANTIPASTI 43
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46 MY CALABRIA
braised first. The meat is set aside for a second course; the flavor-enhanced sauce
accompanies the pasta. Walk through the narrow streets of a Calabrian village late
on a Sunday morning, and the scent of simmering sugo will greet you at every turn.
Pasta is a first course in Calabria, as it is elsewhere in Italy. Sometimes—when
dining in a restaurant or celebrating a holiday—Calabrians might precede pasta
with antipasto, but not usually. Pasta is also the largest course in terms of volume
and, historically, the main source of calories. At my childhood table, my slender
father would often eat a half-pound of pasta for dinner, followed by vegetables and
a slice or two of prosciutto or other salumi (cured meats). Most Calabrians today
would consider 100 grams (3 ounces) of pasta to be a reasonable serving.
For everyday meals, I use De Cecco pasta, imported from Italy. I believe this
widely available brand offers the best quality for the price. It cooks through evenly—
some lesser brands become mushy outside before they are fully cooked at the core—
and it has a rough, not slick, exterior that encourages the sauce to cling. For unusual
shapes, such as cavatelli and strozzapreti, I will splurge on Rustichella d'Abruzzo, an
excellent artisanal pasta from Italy.
PASTA 47
drained pasta on top, followed by a shower of grated pecorino cheese. The remain-
ing sauce goes on top. With two large spoons, I divide the pasta among the diners,
who toss pasta and sauce together in their own bowls. So when you are cooking for
a Calabrian, always put the cheese on the pasta, not on the sauce. We believe the
cheese adheres to the noodles better that way.
My family eats pasta so quickly that I don't bother to warm the platter or serv-
ing bowls, but you can do so if you are concerned about keeping the pasta hot.
Lastly, don't drown the pasta in sauce. Use just enough to coat. You have used the
right amount if there is little or no sauce left in your bowl when you have finished
the pasta. Serve pasta in shallow bowls, not plates. It stays hotter that way, and long
pasta is easier to swirl on a fork when served in a bowl.
In the pages that follow, you will find recipes for some of the signature Calabrian
pasta shapes such as cavatieddi and fusilli calabresi, along with the full-bodied
sauces that go with them, such as a roasted-tomato and breadcrumb sauce (page
57) and a rustic goat sugo (page 85). You will also find quickly-made weeknight
pasta dishes, such as Spaghetti with a Creamy Potato and Pancetta Sauce (page
66), as well as an unusual couscous-like pasta from Calabria’s Arbéresh commu-
nity (page 60). Master a few of these much loved pasta dishes, and you will be an
honorary Calabrian.
48 MY CALABRIA
CANNARUOZZOLI
Smooth tubular pasta, similar to ditali but larger in diameter and longer; used in
soups.
CANNELLONI
Rectangles of fresh pasta, typically rolled around a filling and baked. Similar to
schiaffettoni but larger.
CAVATELLI, CAVATIEDDI
Shaped with two fingers held together, cavatelli are smooth on the outside. Sauced
with beans, tomato sauce, or ragu.
COVATELLI CROTONESI
Shaped with one finger and a ridged paddle, covatelli are smaller than cavatelli and
have a ridged exterior. Sauced with beans, tomato sauce, or ragu.
A long noodle formed around a knitting needle, resembling thick spaghetti with
a hole in the middle. Filei or filej are identical to fusilli but shorter. Served with a
simple tomato sauce or a meat-flavored tomato sauce such as sugo di capra (goat
sauce, page 85).
GNOCCHI, RASCKATIEDDI
Identical to cavatelli and sauced in the same ways but made with a potato-and-flour
dough.
Wide ribbon pasta similar to pappardelle; served with meat-flavored tomato sauces,
such as sugo di costate di maiale (pork-rib and tomato sauce, page 88).
continued on page 52
PASTA 49
Homemade Calabrian pasta shapes: 1. dromésat, 2.fusilli, 3. scilatelli, 4. gnocchi, 5. cavatelli, 6. laganieddi,
7. maccheroni larghi, 8. scorze di fagiolini. (For complete glossary of shapes see pages 48-49 and 52.)
continued from page 49
LAGANIEDDI, LAGANI
Ribbon pasta, narrower and thicker than fettuccine; often used in brothy bean
dishes such as Lagani e Ceci (Fresh Ribbon Pasta with Chick Peas, page 63).
RAVIOLONI
Stuffed pasta in large rounds; typically filled with cheese and sauced with tomato, as
for Ravioloni Calabresi (Large Ravioli with Fresh Ricotta and Soppressata, page 80).
RICCI DI DONNA
“Lady's tresses’: a spaghetti-length spiral made by coiling the dough around a knit-
ting needle; sauced in the same ways asfusilli.
SCHIAFFETTONI
Small squares of fresh pasta, typically rolled around a meat filling and baked; simi-
lar to cannelloni but smaller. When dried, schiaffettoni are also known as paccheri.
Thick spaghetti made by elongating a rope of dough at the edge of a table so that the
slowly lengthening rope slides off the work table and makes a single long coil on a
tray below. The pasta breaks into shorter lengths as it cooks. Used with any meat
or vegetable sauce.
SCORZE DI FAGIOLINI
“Bean-pod pasta” shaped with the three middle fingers of each hand; paired with
tomato sauce or meat ragu.
TAGGHIULINI, TAGLIOLINI
Ribbon pasta similar to fettuccine; paired with any meat or vegetable sauce.
52 MY CALABRIA
Sugo di Pomodoro
QUICK TOMATO SAUCE
This sauce is the foundation of Calabrian cooking. I make it several times a week,
with fresh tomatoes in summer and early fall, and with home-canned tomatoes the
rest of the year. It cooks only briefly, so it retains the bright, lively taste of ripe
tomato and the tomatoes remain in soft but visible pieces. It is not intended to be
a smooth puree.
Like most other Calabrians, I do not add onions, celery, carrot, oregano, sugar,
or any other ingredients that might interfere with the direct, pure taste of tomato.
My sauce is simple because the main ingredients are superb: sun-ripened tomatoes,
heavy with flesh and juice, and extra virgin olive oil. I add a hint of fresh basil and
the merest scent of garlic. Anyone with access to fragrant ripe tomatoes—from a
home garden, a farmers’ market, or a conscientious supermarket—can reproduce
this sauce. And as long as you use a good brand of canned San Marzano tomatoes
(see page 14 for guidance), you can achieve fine results as well.
On its own, this versatile sauce can be paired with any pasta shape, fresh or
dried. It makes enough to sauce a pound ofpasta. But it is also the starting point for
countless other pasta sauces—with anchovies, fried eggplant, olives, 'nduja (page
199), canned tuna, or cooked beans, for example—and an ingredient in many other
Calabrian dishes, such as Spicy Calabrian Rice with Tomato and Borlotti Beans
(page 109) and My Mother's Pork Meatballs (page 209).
If you use fresh tomatoes, they should be fully red, aromatic, and as ripe as
possible. If they are not quite ripe, leave them at room temperature for two or three
days, until they develop more color and aroma and begin to soften.
PASTA 53
IF YOU ARE USING Home-Canned
Tomatoes or store-bought canned toma-
toes, pour them into a bowl and break
them up by hand, discarding any hard
cores or bits of skin. I don't want a per-
fectly smooth sauce, so I don't process
the tomatoes further. If you prefer a
smooth sauce, pass the tomatoes (fresh
or canned) through a food mill fitted with
the medium disk, or puree them in a food
processor or blender.
Heat the olive oil in a skillet over
moderately high heat, add the garlic, and
sauté until golden, about one minute.
Add the tomatoes and their juices care-
fully. (They will splatter.) Tear the basil in
half and add along with the salt. Add the
hot pepper, if using. Simmer briskly, stir- A small portion of the tomato harvest my
ring occasionally, until you have a thick, garden produces every September
54 MY CALABRIA
Spaghetti Aglio, Olio e Peperoncino in Tre Modi
SPAGHETTI WITH GARLIC, OLIVE OIL, AND HOT RED PEPPER, THREE WAYS
Kosher salt
MY VERSION
PASTA 5D
MY PARENTS’ VERSION
6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
6 garlic cloves, minced or thinly sliced
2 tablespoons Calabrian paprika (page 304) or Spanish sweet paprika
Ground hot red pepper
BRING 5 QUARTS (5 liters) of water to a boil in an 8-quart (8-liter) pot over high
heat. Add % cup (45 grams) kosher salt. Add the pasta and cook, stirring occasionally,
until al dente, about 10 minutes. While the pasta cooks, prepare one of the sauces.
FOR MY VERSION: Heat the olive oil, garlic, and sliced fresh peppers in a 12-inch
(30-centimeter) skillet over low heat. Cook just until the garlic releases its fra-
grance, about 2 minutes; do not allow the garlic to color. Stir in the parsley and
remove from the heat.
FOR ALBERTO'S VERSION: Heat the olive oil and garlic in a 12-inch (30-
centimeter) skillet over medium heat until the garlic is golden, about 4 minutes.
Remove the garlic cloves with tongs and discard. Reduce the heat to low and add the
dried peppers. Let warm in the oil for about 2 minutes, then remove from the heat.
Set aside 1 cup (250 milliliters) of the pasta water, then drain the pasta and add it
to the skillet. Toss well, moistening with enough of the reserved pasta water to keep
the pasta from clumping. Serve immediately.
SERVES 4
56 MY CALABRIA
Cavatieddi con Pomodori Gratinati al Forno
PASTA ‘GNOCCHI WITH ROASTED TOMATOES AND BREADCRUMBS
In summer, when my garden tomatoes are at their peak, I often cut them in half
and bake them with a topping of olive oil and garlicky herbed breadcrumbs. One
day I decided to toss those soft, juicy roasted tomatoes with homemade cavatieddi,
or gnocchi-shaped pasta, and was more than pleased with the outcome. I now peel
the tomatoes before roasting them, but even so, this sauce is easy and quick enough
for busy weeknights. Reserve it for the couple of months in summer when you can
get garden-ripe or farmers’ market plum tomatoes that will melt into a creamy
sauce. Underripe supermarket tomatoes won't soften properly in the oven.
SAUCE
PASTA
fingers of your dominant hand close together, then place those two fingertips on
the long edge of one of the pieces, fingertips touching the work surface. Press down,
then pull toward you while pressing, which will make the dough curl into a “C." It
is important to press firmly and consistently so that the cavatieddi are evenly thin
throughout. Repeat with the remaining dough. Transfer the cavatieddi as you make
them to a tray lined with a clean kitchen towel or cotton cloth. The cavatieddi may be
prepared up to 4 hours ahead and left uncovered at room temperature.
FOR THE SAUCE: Place a rack in the lowest position in your oven and preheat
the oven to 450°F (225°F).
Fill a 4-quart (4-liter) pot with 2 quarts (2 liters) of water and bring to a boil.
Prepare a large bowl of ice water. Immerse the tomatoes in the boiling water until
you see the first sign of a split skin, 20 to 45 seconds, depending on ripeness.
Remove the tomatoes immediately to the ice water. When cool, slip off the skins and
remove the core. Cut lengthwise and scoop out the seeds with your fingers.
In a small bowl, combine the toasted breadcrumbs with the parsley, oregano,
garlic, and pecorino. Mix with your hand to blend well.
Choose a baking dish large enough to hold the halved tomatoes in one layer
without crowding and to accommodate the cooked pasta eventually. I use an oval
dish that measures approximately 11 by 8 by 2 inches (28 by 20 by 5 centimeters).
Coat the bottom ofthe dish with the 1 tablespoon ofthe olive oil. Arrange the tomato
halves in the dish in a single layer, cut side up. Sprinkle with 2 teaspoons salt and
several grinds of black pepper. Scatter the breadcrumb mixture over the tomatoes,
dividing it evenly. Sprinkle with a little hot pepper, if using. Drizzle evenly with
the remaining % cup olive oil. Bake until the tomatoes are very soft and about to
collapse, about 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and break them up a bit with a
wooden spoon.
Bring 5 quarts (5 liters) of water to a boil in an 8-quart (8-liter) pot. Add % cup
(35 grams) kosher salt, then add the cavatieddi and cook, stirring occasionally, until
they are no longer chewy but still firm to the tooth, 12 to 15 minutes.
Drain the pasta and transfer to the baking dish with the tomatoes. Stir well
with a wooden spoon, breaking up more of the tomatoes as you stir until the sauce
is creamy and coats the pasta nicely. Divide among bowls and serve at once. If you
would like additional cheese, pass it separately.
SERVES 4 TO 6
58 MY CALABRIA
Homemade Fresh Pasta
This eggless dough is the one my mother and I use for all our fresh pasta. The more
often you make it, the more proficient you will become. Be sure to let the dough rest
before rolling it to allow the flour to hydrate fully and the gluten to relax.
PLACE THE FLOUR ina bowl, make a well in the center, and put the water in the
well. Mix with one hand until you have a shaggy dough. Scrape the dough off your
fingers and back into the bowl. Continue mixing and kneading with one hand until
the dough cleans the sides of the bowl. Turn the dough out onto a work surface and
knead with both hands until the dough is firm, smooth, and not sticky, about 10
minutes. The dough will be stiff and difficult to work at first, but resist the urge to
add more water. If it fails to come together into a smooth dough after a few minutes
of kneading, sprinkle with a few drops of water. Shape the dough into a ball, cover
the surface closely with plastic wrap, and let rest for 30 minutes.
Note: You need a slightly moister dough for pasta shapes that require rolling the
dough into a sheet. For lagani (page 00), sagne chine (page 00), maccheroni larghi (page
00), and ravioloni (page 00), you will probably need an additional 1 tablespoon water.
¥%, cup (55 grams) firmly packed fresh breadcrumbs (for homemade, see page 127)
WARM THE OLIVE OIL ina 10-inch (25-centimeter) skillet over medium heat.
Add the breadcrumbs and stir to coat with oil. Cook, stirring constantly, until the
breadcrumbs are evenly golden brown and crunchy, about 5 minutes.
PASTA
Dromésat
HANDMADE ARBERESH “COUSCOUS WITH TOMATO SAUCE
MY CALABRIA
ON A WORK SURFACE, spread the flour out to make a bed about ™% inch thick.
Put 1 cup of water in a small bowl or measuring cup. You will use only about % cup,
but it is easier to work with a larger amount.
Use the fingertips of one hand to sprinkle water over the flour while you mix
with the other hand. Use a circular motion with your mixing hand, adding water
just until all the flour is barely moistened and meal-like; you are not trying to make
a cohesive dough. After you have added about % cup water, the moistened flour will
begin to coalesce into fine, raggedy shreds or flakes and there will no longer be much
loose, dry flour on the work surface.
Working with a little of the moistened flour at a time, rub the mixture briskly
but gently between your palms, letting it fall from your palms in pieces that resem-
ble wood shavings or coarsely grated cheese. If you rub too vigorously, the mixture
will clump. Work your way through the mixture two or three times, until most of
the flour has been incorporated into shreds. The pasta will be uneven—some fine
shreds, some coarse—but there should not be any clumps.
Put the pasta in a fine sieve and shake to remove the unabsorbed flour. Do not
try to moisten this flour and salvage it for dromésat; it will make gummy pasta.
Spread the pasta on a clean kitchen towel or a baking sheet lined with parchment
paper. Set aside.
In a 4-quart saucepan, combine the tomato sauce, salt, and 4% cups water.
Bring to a simmer over high heat. Add the dromésat a fistful at a time, letting it
drip through your fingers gradually while stirring with a wooden spoon. Cook the
dromésat at a vigorous boil, stirring continuously, for 3 minutes. The dromésat will
hold their shape as the tomato broth thickens. Turn off the heat and stir in the basil.
Taste and adjust the salt. Let cool for 5 minutes, then serve in bowls. Garnish each
serving, if desired, with grated cheese and a sprinkle of hot pepper.
SERVES 4 TO 6
PASTA 61
The Arbéresh in Calabria
Beginning in the early fifteenth century, immigrants from Albania—known then as
Arbéria—settled in Calabria and other parts of Southern Italy and began to create
their own communities. They came in waves over three centuries, but the earliest
were soldiers who came to aid the Aragonese army. Rewarded with land, many
stayed. More arrived in the mid to late 1400s, fleeing persecution by the Turks, an
influx that surged after the death in 1468 of Albanian hero George Skanderbeg, who
had led resistance to the Turks. They settled primarily in remote mountain villages
and have managed, for more than five hundred years, to preserve a distinctive lan-
guage, culture, and customs. Theirs is the language of pre-Ottoman Arbéria—not
modern Albanian and not Italian, although it reflects some Italian influence.
Today, there are almost three dozen villages in Calabria that retain a signifi-
cant Arbéresh (AR-ber-esh) presence. Most of these towns are in the province of
Cosenza, although some are in Catanzaro and Crotone as well. Among the most
prominent Arbéresh villages are Acquaformosa, Civita, Firmo, Frascineto, Lungro,
San Basile, and Spezzano Albanese. In these villages, you may hear the Arbéresh
language spoken and, if you are fortunate enough to be there on a holiday, to see
people don traditional Arbéresh dress. The number of Arbéresh in Calabria is esti-
mated at thirty thousand.
Over the centuries, Arbéresh cooking seems to have merged with Calabrian
foodways, to the point that it is difficult to identify many dishes that are uniquely
Arbéresh. Only two, both pasta dishes, come readily to the fore: dromésat (page
60), a sort of couscous made by rubbing flour and water between one’s palms; and
shtridhélat, a homemade noodle resembling Calabrian lagani but made entirely by
hand, with no rolling pin. Virtually all of the other dishes that turn up in Arbéresh
restaurants and recipe collections have Calabrian equivalents.
62 MY CALABRIA
Lagani e Ceci
FRESH RIBBON PASTA WITH CHICK PEAS
PASTA 63
LAGANI
34, cup (150 grams) dried chick peas, soaked 12 hours in water to cover
by several inches, or one 15-ounce (425-gram) can chick peas
Kosher salt
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 large garlic clove, halved
2 cups (500 milliliters) Home-Canned Peeled Tomatoes (page
296) or one 14-ounce (400-gram) can Italian San Marzano
tomatoes, pureed in a blender
TO MAKE THE LAGANTI: Dust the work surface lightly with flour. Flatten the
ball of dough with your hands into a circle. With the rolling pin, roll the dough into
a circle approximately % inch (6 millimeters) thick. Roll from the center ofthe circle
outward, giving the dough a quarter-turn after each roll to maintain the circle.
Now you will change your rolling technique. Lightly dust the surface of the
dough with flour. Lift the edge of the dough closest to you and drape it tightly over
the rolling pin, then roll the pin away from you so that about one-quarter of the
dough is encircling the pin. Starting at the center of the pin, stretch the dough by
rolling lightly with both palms and working outward. Continue to roll the dough
around the rolling pin, stretching the dough out and away with your hands, along
the length of the pin, as you roll. You do not need to put pressure on the pin. You
are thinning the dough and increasing the circle's circumference by the stretching
motion of your palms, not by pressure applied to the pin. When all the dough is
rolled onto the pin, give the pin a quarter-turn and unfurl the dough. The circle
should be larger than it was when you started. Dust the surface of the dough lightly
with flour and repeat the rolling and stretching process until the circle is 16 to 18
inches (40 to 45 centimeters) in diameter and about % inch (3 millimeters) thick.
Dust the surface of the dough with flour. Cut the circle in half and keep one half
covered with a kitchen towel while you work with the other half.
MY CALABRIA
Working with one of the half-circles, uncut side toward you, lift the edge clos-
est to you and fold 1% inches (4 centimeters) of dough over. Continue folding the
dough like a jelly roll until you have a long flat roll about 1% inches (4 centimeters)
wide.
With a large, sharp knife, cut the pasta roll into %-inch-wide (6-millimeter-
wide) ribbons. Unfurl the ribbons and lay them on a clean, dry kitchen towel. You
can cook the pasta immediately or let it rest, covered with another clean towel, for
a few hours.
If using dried chick peas, drain and put them in a large pot with water to cover by
2 inches (5 centimeters). Bring to a simmer, skimming any foam. Adjust the heat
to maintain a bare simmer and cook uncovered until the chick peas are tender, 45
minutes to 1% hours, depending on age. Season to taste with salt about 10 minutes
before they are done. Let the chick peas cool in the cooking liquid.
Heat the olive oil in a 10-inch (25-centimeter) skillet over moderate heat. Add
the garlic and sauté until golden. Add the tomato puree carefully, as it may splatter.
Tear the basil leaves in half and add to the skillet along with the paprika. Season to
taste with salt and hot pepper, if using. Simmer briskly, stirring occasionally, until
thick and saucelike, 10 to 15 minutes.
Bring 5 quarts (5 liters) of water to a boil in an 8-quart (8-liter) pot over high
heat. Add % cup (35 grams) kosher salt, then add the pasta and cook, stirring
occasionally, until al dente, 7 minutes or more, depending on thickness. About one
minute before the pasta is done, drain the chick peas (home-cooked or canned) and
add them to the boiling pasta water to reheat them. Scoop out 2 cups (500 millili-
ters) of the pasta water and reserve. Drain the pasta and chick peas into a colander.
Return to the warm pot over moderate heat. Add the tomato sauce and enough of
the reserved water to make the mixture brothy, about 1% cups (375 milliliters). Mix
well and serve at once.
SERVES 4 TO 6
PASTA 65
Pasta e Patate “Santo Janni
ot?
The agriturismo Santo Janni is a mountain farm with guesthouse in the dense chest-
nut forests near San Pietro in Guarano, northeast of Cosenza. Most of the food the
proprietors serve in their simple but comfortable dining room comes from ingre-
dients they make or grow: prosciutto; ricotta and pecorino cheeses; homegrown
eggplant; and sturdy homemade bread. Pasta e patate is a specialty of the house and
quite unlike the version my mother makes. My mother’s recipe calls for tomato and
short pasta (such as ditali), and the potatoes remain in visible chunks. In the Santo
Janni rendition, the potatoes are cooked with guanciale (cured pork jowl) until they
are soft enough to mash, yielding a creamy, rich, and peppery sauce flavored with
lots of ricotta salata. Pancetta can substitute for the hard-to-find guanciale.
¥%, pound (340 grams) russet potatoes, peeled and cut into %-inch
(1 2-millimeter) cubes
Kosher salt
IN A LARGE SKILLET, heat the olive oil and pancetta over medium heat, stir-
ring until the pancetta renders its fat. Do not let it become brown or crisp. Add the
potatoes and stir for about one minute to coat them with the fat, then add 2 cups
(soo milliliters) water. Bring to a simmer and cook uncovered until the potatoes are
soft enough to mash with a fork or potato masher, about 10 minutes. Mash them to
a near-puree and set the skillet aside.
MY CALABRIA
In a 4-quart (4-liter) pot, bring 3 quarts (3 liters) water and 2 tablespoons salt
to a rolling boil over high heat. Add the spaghetti and cook until al dente.
Just before the pasta is done, return the skillet to medium heat. With tongs, lift
the pasta out of the pot and transfer it, dripping wet, to the skillet. Reserve a cup
of cooking water. Toss the pasta with the tongs, coating the pasta evenly with the
creamy sauce. Add the ricotta salata and a generous amount of black pepper and
toss again, thinning the sauce as needed with enough of the pasta water to make a
creamy but not soupy dish. The sauce must cling to the pasta, but it should not seem
starchy. Taste for seasoning; if the pancetta is salty, the dish may not need more
salt. Serve at once, topping each portion with a little additional cheese.
SERVES 4
The town of Orsomarso, close to where my maternal grandparents had their farmhouse
PASTA 67
Struncatura con Acciughe e Mollica
WHOLE-WHEAT LINGUINE WITH ANCHOVIES AND BREADCRUMBS
68 MY CALABRIA
didn't know. How was it made? She didn't know. I bought another kilo, but I got
no further in deciphering the origins or composition of struncatura. The gentleman
who had chauffeured me to the market told me that carob flour is considered animal
feed in Calabria, unfit for human consumption. But as I learned at Casa Janca, and
in experiments at home, struncatura rivals the best whole-wheat pasta.
The whole-wheat linguine manufactured by De Cecco has a pleasantly rough tex-
ture and nutty flavor similar to that of struncatura. Other brands I've tried are too
slick. In the region of Reggio Calabria, where struncatura presumably originated, the
traditional sauce is a simple one: garlic, hot peppers, and anchovies cooked slowly
until the anchovies melt. Crisp toasted breadcrumbs are stirred in at the end to add
some crunch. I leave some of the anchovies coarsely chopped so they don't dissolve
completely and are perceptible in the sauce.
The same sauce, tossed with spaghetti, appears on Christmas Eve menus
throughout Calabria. Made with whole-wheat linguine, a stand-in for struncatura,
the dish has a wholesome and earthy quality that I love. Serve it as a first course
before a seafood second course, such as Whole Salt-Baked Sea Bass (page 181) or
Swordfish “Glutton's Style" with Tomato, Capers, and Olives (page 175).
Kosher salt
1 pound (450 grams) whole-wheat linguine
% cup (125 milliliters) extra virgin olive oil
1 to 2 small fresh hot red peppers, thinly sliced, or hot red pepper
flakes to taste
2 tablespoons minced flat-leaf parsley
PASTA 69
IF USING SALT-CURED ANCHOVIES, rinse them under cold water to remove
the exterior salt. Pry them open along the back with your fingers and lift out the
backbone to yield two fillets. Rinse the fillets again to remove any fine bones and
pat dry on paper towels. If using anchovy fillets in olive oil, lift them out of the jar
or can with a fork, leaving the oil behind.
Finely chop six of the anchovy fillets. Cut the remaining six fillets into 4 to 5
pieces each. Set aside.
Bring 5 quarts (5 liters) of water to a boil in an 8-quart (8-liter) pot over high
heat. Add % cup (35 grams) kosher salt and the pasta. Cook, stirring occasionally,
until al dente, about 10 minutes.
While the pasta cooks, prepare the sauce. Put the olive oil, garlic, finely chopped
anchovies, and hot peppers in a 12-inch (30-centimeter) skillet and cook over low
heat, stirring, until the anchovies dissolve. Stir in the parsley and the remaining
anchovies and turn off the heat.
When the pasta is almost done, set aside 1 cup (250 milliliters) of the pasta cook-
ing water, then drain the pasta and transfer it to the skillet with the anchovy sauce.
Toss quickly until all the strands are well coated. Add some of the reserved cooking
water if the pasta seems dry. Set aside 2 tablespoons of the breadcrumbs, then add
the remainder to the skillet and toss the pasta again. Divide the pasta among warm
bowls and top each serving with a sprinkling of the reserved breadcrumbs. Serve
right away.
SERVES 4
70 MY CALABRIA
Spaghetti col Sugo di Baccala
SPAGHETTI WITH SALT COD AND A SPICY TOMATO SAUCE
Calabrians prepare this dish on Christmas Eve and throughout the winter months.
After simmering big chunks of salt cod in tomato sauce, which imparts a rich sea-
food flavor to the sauce, some cooks shred the fish into the sauce and toss it with
pasta. That's what I've done here. Others, like my father, prefer to leave the cod
chunks whole, lift them out of the sauce, and have them as a secondo, or second
course. In that case, the first course would be spaghetti tossed with the fish-flavored
sauce.
If you leave the salt cod in the pasta sauce, stay with fish for a second course.
Consider a cool seafood salad, such as Marinated Octopus Salad with Olive Oil and
Lemon (page 161). If you prefer a hot secondo, Whole Salt-Baked Sea Bass (page 181)
would be a good choice. Follow the second course with a salad of winter greens or
Cauliflower Salad (page 240). No cheese is served with this pasta. If you like, you
can top it with Toasted Fresh Breadcrumbs (page 59).
PASTA
IN THE REFRIGERATOR, soak the salt cod in water to cover for two to three
days, changing the water once a day. Thick pieces will need longer than thin ones
to rehydrate and shed their salt. Taste the cod after two days to see if it is still too
salty. Take care not to oversoak or you will drain the cod of all flavor.
Heat the olive oil in a saucepan over moderate heat. Add the garlic and sauté until
golden. Carefully add the tomatoes. Tear the basil leaves in half and add to the sauce-
pan along with salt and hot pepper to taste. Simmer briskly, stirring occasionally, for
about 10 minutes. Drain the salt cod and add to the saucepan. Simmer uncovered
until the cod flakes easily, 15 to 20 minutes, turning the cod over in the sauce halfway
through. Remove and discard the garlic cloves. Shred the cod in the sauce with a fork.
Stir in the parsley, then taste and adjust the seasoning. Keep the sauce warm over
low heat.
Bring 5 quarts (5 liters) of water to a boil in an 8-quart (8-liter) pot over high
heat. Add % cup (35 grams) kosher salt, then add the pasta and cook, stirring occa-
sionally, until al dente, about 10 minutes. Set aside 1 cup (250 milliliters) of the
pasta water, then drain the pasta into a colander and return it to the warm pot.
Add the sauce and toss well, adding some of the reserved water if needed to thin the
sauce. Serve immediately.
SERVES 4 O16
72 MY CALABRIA
Paccheri con Pesce Spada e Pomodori Pacchini
LARGE PASTA TUBES WITH SWORDFISH AND CHERRY TOMATOES
Restaurants on Calabria’s Tyrrhenian coast serve this dish throughout the summer,
when the locally caught swordfish is plentiful and impeccably fresh. Some add
capers and olives to the sauce. Others add fried eggplant or fried zucchini. I've had
the sauce with fresh pasta, such as filei (page 48), but I particularly like it with
paccheri, a Neapolitan pasta shape that Calabrians also enjoy. Paccheri are smooth,
2-inch-long (5-centimeter-long) pasta tubes, but unlike the tubular penne or riga-
toni, paccheri collapse and become flat when cooked. I adore them with tomato sauce
and seafood sauces and would like to see them more widely available in the United
States (See Resources, page 369).
Kosher salt
1 pound (450 grams) dried paccheri (large pasta tubes, page 369) or
rigatoni
REMOVE THE SKIN from the swordfish, then cut the fish slices into %-inch
(12-millimeter) cubes.
Bring 5 quarts (5 liters) of water to a boil in an 8-quart (8-liter) pot over high
heat. Add % cup (35 grams) kosher salt and the pasta. While the pasta cooks, pre-
pare the sauce.
Heat the olive oil in a 12-inch (30-centimeter) skillet over moderately high heat.
When the oil is hot, add the cubed swordfish, garlic, and hot pepper. Cook, stirring
PASTA 73
constantly, until the swordfish is white all over and the garlic has released its fra-
grance, about 45 seconds.
Add the tomatoes and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring, just long enough to
soften the tomatoes and draw out some of their juices, about one minute. You don't
want the tomatoes to collapse into a sauce. Stir in the parsley and remove from the
heat.
When the pasta is al dente, drain and toss with the swordfish and tomato sauce,
stirring until the pasta is well coated. Serve immediately.
SERVES 4 TO 6
<ipeees: oe ee Sees —
Fishermen pulling in their boat from the
Tyrrhenian Sea in Pizzo
74 MY CALABRIA
Rigatoni alla Pastora
SHEPHERD S-STYLE RIGATONI WITH RICOTTA AND SAUSAGE
This humble recipe uses the ingredients a Calabrian shepherd might have on hand:
fresh, homemade ricotta and a little sausage. An even more austere version calls for
ricotta only. I pass the ricotta through a sieve to make it creamier, although most
Calabrian cooks don't. They simply beat the ricotta with a fork and thin it with hot
pasta water. Be sure to use a ridged pasta shape, such as rigatoni or penne rigate,
to hold the creamy sauce, and be generous with the black pepper.
¥4, pound (350 grams) fresh sweet or hot Italian sausage or Fresh
Homemade Fennel Sausage Calabrian Style (page 211)
REMOVE THE SAUSAGE CASINGS. With a table knife, break the sausage
up into small chunks about the size of an olive. Heat the olive oil in a 12-inch
(30-centimeter) skillet over medium heat. Add the sausage and cook until browned
all over, about 2 minutes. Keep warm.
Press the ricotta through a sieve into a large serving bowl. Add salt to taste and
several grinds of black pepper.
Bring 5 quarts (5 liters) of water to a boil in an 8-quart (8-liter) pot over high
heat. Add % cup (35 grams) kosher salt, then add the pasta and cook, stirring occa-
sionally, until al dente, about 10 minutes. Just before the pasta is done, whisk a few
tablespoons of the hot pasta water into the ricotta to warm it and make it creamy
and saucelike.
PASTA
Set aside about % cup (125 millliliters) of the pasta cooking water, then drain
the pasta. Add the pasta to the skillet with the sausage and toss over high heat just
until hot throughout. Transfer the pasta and sausage to the bowl with the ricotta
and mix well, adding some of the reserved pasta cooking water if needed to moisten
the pasta. Add pecorino and hot pepper if desired. Serve immediately.
SERVES 6 TO 8
76 MY CALABRIA
Sagne Chine
LASAGNE, CALABRIAN STYLE
Sagne chine is Calabria's lasagne, a neat pasta-wrapped “package” that doesn't reveal
its delectable contents until it is sliced. It is admittedly a labor of love and not made
routinely. In many families, sagne chine graces the table primarily on the day after
Easter, known as la Pasquetta (page 79), when everyone heads to the countryside
for a picnic. It holds well and is delicious at room temperature, so it is perfect for
this occasion. I tend to reserve sagne chine for those important family events when
we have many guests in the house and need to present the meal buffet style. When
each of my two children was baptized, I made sagne chine.
The dish is made more or less the same way throughout Calabria, by layering
squares of eggless pasta dough with tomato sauce, fresh peas, sliced mozzarella
and—the time-consuming part—dozens upon dozens of marble-size meatballs. I
am well aware that these tiny meatballs require some patience to make, but they
are a signature of sagne chine. Enlist a friend or your children and you can shape all
the meatballs in a pleasurable half hour.
Note that you can assemble and refrigerate the lasagne several hours before
baking, or up to a day ahead.
Kosher salt
PASTA EE
CUT THE DOUGH into 6 or 8 equal pieces. Work with one piece at a time, keeping
the others covered with a kitchen towel. Using a pasta machine, and beginning with
the rollers on the widest setting, roll a piece of dough twice through each setting to
thin it. Stop when the sheet of dough is about %e inch (1% millimeters) thick. Lay
the sheet of dough on a work surface, uncovered, while you roll out the remaining
pieces of dough. When you have rolled out all the dough, cut the sheets into 12-inch
(30-centimeter) lengths.
Bring 5 quarts (s liters) of water to a boil in an 8-quart (8-liter) pot over high
heat. Add % cup (35 grams) kosher salt. Working with two or three sheets at a time,
parboil the pasta for about one minute. With tongs ora slotted spoon, transfer them
to a bowl ofice water to stop the cooking. Lift them out of the ice water and let excess
water drain off, then lay the pasta sheets on a kitchen towel without overlapping.
Prepare the Pork Meatballs in Tomato Sauce, but shape the meatballs about the
size of amarble, using about % teaspoon of the pork mixture for each meatball. You
should get about 240 meatballs. Simmer the meatballs in the tomato sauce for about
5 minutes, then set aside a generous 1 cup (250 milliliters) of tomato sauce. Add the
peas to the meatballs and continue cooking until the peas are tender, thinning the
sauce if necessary with a little water.
78 MY CALABRIA
At this point, you can cover and refrigerate the unbaked lasagne for up to
a day.
To bake, preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Bake the lasagne until it is puffed and
bubbling, about 30 minutes (longer if it was refrigerated). Let rest for at least 30
minutes before serving or it will be difficult to cut. The dish can remain at room
temperature for up to 2 hours.
12
SERVES
On the Monday after Easter, all Italy takes the day off. The occasion is la Pasquetta,
(“little Easter”), which virtually everyone celebrates with a picnic in the country
with friends. Many people call the holiday la Scampagnata—literally, a country
outing.
In Calabria, most people bring a dish already prepared, typically something
they made at home that morning, like sagne chine (Lasagne, Calabrian Style, page 77)
or another baked pasta dish, or a wild asparagus and sausage frittata. Even if you
had roast baby goat for Easter, you might prepare it again for la Pasquetta; it’s the
season, after all. Others will bring sausages for grilling outdoors, fresh fava beans,
cheese, hard-cooked eggs, or homemade salumi.
The afternoon passes leisurely, starting with the feasting and ending with songs,
stories, accordion playing, dancing, and outdoor games. This carefree day provides
a respite from the duties of the holy week that precedes it.
PASTA 19
Ravioloni Calabresi
LARGE RAVIOLI WITH FRESH RICOTTA AND SOPPRESSATA
FILLING
FOR THE FILLING: Ina large bowl, mix the ricotta with the soppressata, pecorino,
parsley, egg, 4 teaspoon salt, and pepper to taste.
TO ROLL OUT THE DOUGH BY HAND: Follow the instructions for rolling
MY CALABRIA
out lagani (page 64), but roll until the dough is about “se inch (1% millimeters) thick.
Alternatively, roll the dough with a hand-cranked pasta machine into sheets “ie
inch (1% millimeters) thick.
Using a 3¥%-inch (9-centimeter) round cutter, cut out as many circles as you can.
Set half the circles aside, covering them with a kitchen towel so they don't dry out.
Meanwhile, heat the tomato sauce. With a skimmer or slotted spoon, carefully lift
the ravioloni out one at a time and place on a large serving platter. When they are
all on the platter, sprinkle with pecorino cheese to taste, then spoon hot tomato
sauce over all.
PASTA 81
Scorze di Fagiolini con Ragu d Agnello
° e ° ° N ?
My mother learned to make scorze difagiolini ("bean pods") from our relatives from
Basilicata, the region just north of Calabria, after they moved to our town. In that
region, it is a typical pasta shape, so named because the lengths of dough look
like empty bean pods. The same shape is also called strascinati, meaning “dragged,”
because you drag the dough with your fingertips to shape it.
The lamb ragu is not a Calabrian sauce but my adaptation of ameat sauce made
all over Italy. I include the dish because it is a favorite of my daughter, Danielle,
who typically requests it for her birthday dinner. Calabrians rarely use ground
meat in a tomato sauce, preferring instead to simmer a large piece of meat, such as
bone-in pork shoulder, in their tomato sauce and then serve the meat as a separate
course.
As an alternative sauce for scorze di fagiolini, consider sugo di costate di maiale
(pork-rib and tomato sauce, page 88).
RAGU
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more if needed
1 pound (450 grams) boneless lamb shoulder or leg, all fat removed,
cut into %-inch (9-millimeter) dice
Ya yellow onion, minced
1 large carrot, minced
1 large celery rib, minced
2 garlic cloves, minced
One 4-inch (10-centimeter) fresh rosemary sprig
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Ys cup (80 milliliters) dry white wine
MY CALABRIA
2 cups (500 milliliters) Home-Canned Peeled Tomatoes (page
296) or one 14-ounce (400-gram) can Italian San Marzano
tomatoes, broken up by hand, with juice
TO SHAPE THE scorze di fagiolini, work with a little dough at a time and keep the
rest covered with a kitchen towel. Cut off a piece of dough about the size of a cigar.
Rolling with the palms of both hands, stretch the dough into a long rope about %
inch (6 millimeters) to % inch (9 millimeters) thick. Cut the rope into 3%-inch-long
(9-centimeter-long) pieces. Working with one piece at a time, hold the three middle
fingers (index, middle, and ring fingers) of each hand next to each other. Place these
six fingertips on top of the piece of dough, press down firmly, then pull the dough
toward you to make it curl. The result should resemble an empty bean pod with the
impressions from your fingertips marking where the bean seeds would have been.
Repeat with the remaining dough, arranging the pasta on a clean kitchen towel. The
pasta may be prepared up to 4 hours ahead and left uncovered.
FOR THE RAGU: Heat a 4- to 6-quart (4- to 6-liter) Dutch oven or other heavy-
bottomed pot over moderately high heat. When the pot is hot, add the olive oil and
swirl to coat. Add the lamb and cook until the meat is browned all over and sizzling,
about 5 minutes. Transfer the lamb to a plate and set aside.
Add more oil to the pot if necessary, then add the onion, carrot, celery, garlic,
and rosemary sprig to the pot and lower the heat to medium. Cook until the veg-
etables are softened and lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Return the lamb to the
pot and season with salt and black pepper. Add the wine and bring to a boil. With a
wooden spoon, scrape up any caramelized bits from the bottom of the pot. Simmer
until the wine has almost completely evaporated. Stir in the tomatoes, tomato paste,
PASTA 83
and hot pepper. Simmer for 15 to 20 minutes to soften the tomato and develop
the flavors, then stir in the broth. Cover and adjust the heat to maintain a gentle
simmer. Cook until the meat is tender and the sauce is thick and flavorful, about
1% hours. Remove the rosemary sprig and adjust the seasoning.
Bring 5 quarts (5 liters) of water to a boil in an 8-quart (8-liter) pot over high heat.
Add the % cup (35 grams) kosher salt, then add the scorze di fagiolini a handful at
a time, stirring to prevent them from sticking. Cook until the pasta is al dente, 15
minutes or more, depending on how long the pasta has dried. Set aside 1 cup (250
milliliters) of the pasta water, then drain the pasta in a colander and return it to the
warm pot over moderate heat. Add the ragtu and cook the pasta and sauce together
for about a minute, adding some of the reserved water to thin the sauce if needed.
Remove from the heat and sprinkle with grated cheese to taste. Stir again and serve
at once, passing a bowl of extra grated cheese at the table.
SERVES 4 TO 6
84 MY CALABRIA
Fusilli Calabrese con Sugo di Capra
FRESH “KNITTING NEEDLE” PASTA WITH GOAT SAUCE
Fusilli are the signature pasta shape of Calabria, the first shape that every young
girl learned at her mother's side in times past. Unlike the corkscrew-shaped pasta
that many manufacturers call fusilli, Calabrian fusilli are hollow, spaghetti-length
strands made by rolling the fresh dough around a knitting needle. In some parts of
Calabria, they are known as maccheroni alferretto or filej (prounounced fee-LAY),
also spelled filei.
Women of my mother’s generation are amazingly adept at the technique, having
made fusilli for Sunday lunch for years on end. Regrettably, in many Calabrian
households, the skill is not being passed down. My home is an exception. Although
I am not as swift at shaping fusilli as my mother, my son is a whiz.
The most traditional sauce for fusilli is sugo, a tomato sauce infused with the
flavor of braised meat, usually goat. You can make sugo with any cut that benefits
from long, slow cooking, such as the shoulder of goat, lamb, or pork. When we kept
chickens in Calabria, my mother would sometimes use an old hen or rooster. The
sauce absorbs the flavor of the meat, but the meat itself is left behind in the pot
when the pasta is sauced. It reappears as a second course, following the pasta and
usually accompanied by fried potatoes.
Many Hispanic and Middle Eastern markets carry goat or can get it. It is a dark
meat with a rich taste, and if you trim it well, the sauce will not be at all fatty. I like
to add a couple of spoonfuls of my homemade tomato paste for added color and
depth, but it’s not essential.
You will need a No. 1 knitting needle to shape the pasta, or you can make a rod
from the long side of a thick wire clothes hanger, snipped from the hanger with
wire clippers. If you don't want to make homemade pasta, you can substitute dried
pasta. Imported filei Calabresi (also called maccheroni al ferretto) are sporadically
available in the United States and would be the closest substitute among dried pasta
shapes. Another good choice with this sauce would be strozzapreti (‘priest stran-
glers”). Rustichella d’'Abruzzo makes an excellent version (see Resources, page 369).
Despite their name, the familiar dried fusilli packaged by manufacturers such as De
Cecco and Delverde do not resemble fusilli Calabrese.
PASTA 85
1% recipes Homemade Fresh Pasta (page 59) or 1 pound (450
grams) filei Calabresi, strozzapreti, rigatoni, penne, or bucatini
SAUCE
TO SHAPE THE FUSILLI: Work with a little dough at a time and keep the rest
covered with a kitchen towel. Cut off a piece of dough about the size of a cigar and
roll it into a rope about % inch (9 millimeters) thick. Cut the rope into 3- to 3%4-inch-
long (7¥%- to 9-centimeter-long) pieces. Working with one piece at a time, press a
knitting needle into the center of the dough lengthwise. With the palms of both
hands, begin rolling the dough around the needle, stretching it along the needle as
you roll, until it is about 10 inches long. With one hand, quickly slide the pasta off
the needle and place it on top of a kitchen towel until ready to cook. If the dough
is properly made and you don't press too hard as you roll, the noodle will come off
the needle without sticking. Repeat with the remaining dough. ‘The fusilli may be
prepared up to 4 hours ahead and left uncovered at room temperature.
FOR THE SAUCE: Ask the butcher to saw the goat meat into 12 approximately
equal pieces. Heat a heavy 8-quart (8-liter) pot over high heat. Add the olive oil.
When the oil is hot, add the meat and 6 of the garlic halves. Brown the meat on all
86 MY CALABRIA
sides, about 10 minutes. Remove and discard the browned garlic, then season the
meat with 2 teaspoons salt. Stir in the tomato paste, if using, then add the diced
tomatoes, basil, hot pepper to taste, if using, 2 teaspoons salt, and remaining 4
garlic halves. Cover and reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook until the
meat is tender and beginning to fall off the bone, about 1% hours. The sauce should
be thick enough to coat the pasta nicely. If it is too thin, cook uncovered for the final
few minutes to reduce it. If it is too thick, thin with a little water. Taste and adjust
the seasoning. Keep warm.
TO COOK AND DRESS THE PASTA: Bring 5 quarts (5 liters) of water to a boil
in an 8-quart (8-liter) pot over high heat. Add % cup (35 grams) kosher salt, then
add the pasta and cook, stirring occasionally, until al dente, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain
and transfer the fusilli to a serving bowl or platter. Sprinkle the pasta with grated
cheese, then add 1% cups (375 milliliters) of sauce, leaving the goat meat behind.
Toss the pasta and serve immediately. Serve the meat as a second course.
SERVES6
My mom shaping fusilli: pressing a knitting needle into the pasta and
stretching dough around the needle.
PASTA 87
Maccheroni Larghi con Sugo di Costate di Maiale
WIDE NOODLES WITH PORK RIBS AND TOMATO
PORK-RIB SAUCE
MY CALABRIA
FOR THE SAUCE: Cut between the ribs to make individual ribs. Heat a heavy
6-quart (6-liter) pot over medium heat and add the olive oil. When the oil is hot,
add the ribs and the garlic. Season the meat with 1% teaspoons salt and brown on
all sides, about 15 minutes, letting it get crusty on each side before you turn it. Add
the tomatoes, another 1% teaspoons salt, and the basil, tearing the leaves in half as
you add them. Cover and simmer gently until the meat begins to fall off the bone,
1% to 2 hours. The sauce should be thick enough to coat the pasta nicely. If it seems
too thin, cook uncovered for the final few minutes to reduce it. If it is too thick, thin
with a little water. Season to taste with salt and hot pepper.
TO SHAPE THE MACCHERONI: Follow the instructions for rolling out lagani
on page 64, until you have a circle of dough 16 to 18 inches (40 to 45 centimeters)
in diameter. To cut the dough into maccheroni larghi, dust the surface of the circle
with flour. Lift the edge closest to you and fold about 3 inches (8 centimeters) of
dough over. Continue folding the dough like a jelly roll until you have a long flat
roll about 3 inches (8 centimeters) wide.
With a large, sharp knife, cut the pasta roll into %-inch-wide (18-millimeter-
wide) ribbons. Unfurl the ribbons and cut into 8-inch (20-centimeter) lengths. Lay
on a clean, dry kitchen towel. You can cook the pasta immediately or let it rest,
covered with another clean towel, for a few hours.
At serving time, reheat the sauce if necessary. Bring 5 quarts (5 liters) of water toa
boil over high heat. Add % cup (35 grams) kosher salt, then add the pasta and cook,
stirring occasionally, until al dente, about 15 minutes.
Just before the pasta is done, set the ribs aside, leaving the warm sauce in the
pot. Make a thin bed of tomato sauce on a platter. Drain the pasta and transfer it
to the platter. Sprinkle with pecorino, then top with just enough sauce to coat the
pasta. Serve immediately, tossing it with the sauce as you serve.
Return the ribs to the pot with the remaining sauce and reheat gently for a
second course.
SERVES 4 TO 6
PASTA 89
Rasckatieddi di Patate
POTATO GNOCCHI, CALABRIAN STYLE
In Southern Italy, we make gnocchi with just flour and potato, no egg. You might
think they would be heavy, but they are light on the tongue. When I first tasted
gnocchi in Italian-American restaurants, I thought they tasted like gummy mashed
potatoes. Our gnocchi have a firmness to them, almost like pasta.
To produce the ridges characteristic of Calabrian gnocchi, you need a special
wooden paddle. (See Resources, page 369.) You can shape gnocchi on a wooden cut-
ting board, but they will lack the ridges that hold the sauce so nicely. Our dialect
name for gnocchi, rasckatieddi, comes from raschiare, meaning to scrape. To make
the nuggets of dough curl, you “scrape” them against the ridges of the gnocchi
paddle.
Make the gnocchi no more than a couple of hours before you plan to cook them.
You can also freeze them uncooked; when you are ready to eat them, boil without
thawing.
Serve gnocchi with tomato sauce, as I've suggested here, or with sugo di costate
di maiale (pork-rib sauce, page 88). Follow with a second course that doesn't contain
tomato, such as Fresh Homemade Fennel Sausage (page 211).
PUT THE WHOLE POTATOES in a 4-quart (4-liter) pot and cover with cold
water. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to a simmer and cook
until the potatoes are tender when pierced, 30 to 40 minutes. Drain the potatoes
MY CALABRIA
and peel while hot, then let them cool completely. Pass them through a food mill
fitted with the medium disk or a potato ricer. If you don't have either tool, you can
mash the potatoes with a fork or potato masher until completely smooth. Don't use
a food processor or you will have library paste.
Add 2 cups (280 grams) of the flour and mix thoroughly with your hands. Keep
kneading, adding more flour until you have a smooth, firm, nonsticky dough. It
should come together in just a couple of minutes.
Working with a little of the dough at a time, make a long rope about the thick-
ness of your index finger. Dust with flour. Cut the rope into %-inch (2-centimeter)
pieces. Dust again with flour.
Lightly flour a gnocchi paddle. Put a piece of dough on the paddle. Using the
index and middle fingers of your dominant hand, press down on the dough, then
pull toward you to make the dough curl into a "C." The dough is soft, so you don't
need to press hard. As you shape them, transfer the pieces to a tray lined with a
kitchen towel, keeping them in a single layer so they don't stick to each other. Repeat
with the remaining dough, lightly flouring the gnocchi paddle as needed to keep the
dough from sticking.
Bring 5 quarts (5 liters) of water to a boil in an 8-quart (8-liter) pot over high
heat. Add % cup (35 grams) kosher salt, then add the gnocchi and cook, stirring
occasionally, until tender, 5 to 6 minutes.
While the gnocchi cook, warm the tomato sauce in a skillet. Drain the gnocchi.
Put 2 tablespoons of the tomato sauce in a serving bowl and put the gnocchi on top.
Sprinkle with cheese, then add the remaining sauce. Toss and serve immediately.
SERVES 4 TO 6
PASTA 91
Minestre, Riso, Polenta
soup, rice, polenta
When a family meal in Calabria doesn't begin with pasta, it's a good
bet that it will start with polenta, soup, or rice. With such sturdy, filling dishes,
Calabrians historically have appeased the lion's share of their hunger, so that the
smaller portion of meat or eggs to follow does not seem insufficient.
Reflecting the region's long lack of exposure to the rest of Italy, Calabria devel-
oped its own repertoire of these dishes. Other regions of Italy cook polenta, of
course, but the Calabrian method is different. We prepare rice unlike Northern
Italian cooks, and our soups have the rustic, artless, yet deeply satisfying character
typical of dishes made by cooks challenged to create something from nothing.
Common to almost all of these recipes is the use of water instead of broth. Meat
broth, or brodo, was a precious resource in Calabria in times past, reserved for sick
people or fed to new mothers to restore their strength. Today, most Calabrians can
afford to make brodo, but they don't want it in their rice or soup, believing that it
masks the pure taste of the vegetables and other ingredients.
Polenta came to Calabria with the Spaniards, who introduced this remarkable
grain from the New World. Corn thrived in Calabria, and people ate it because it
was inexpensive, but it has never been as prized or valuable as wheat. To many of
my parents’ and grandparents’ generation, corn symbolized hard times. It was what
you ate to stretch your wheat supply.
The polenta preferred in Calabria is a fine grind, similar to what Americans
know as cornmeal. After only fifteen minutes of cooking, it is silky and smooth,
with no hint of graininess. When I have asked Calabrians knowledgeable about the
regional gastronomy about this preference for fine polenta, they all speculate that it
developed because the local mills were calibrated for wheat flour, the predominant
grain. Curiously, the Veneto region, at the other end of the country, also uses fine
cornmeal. In many other parts of Italy, polenta means coarse-ground cornmeal.
Calabrians also differ from their compatriots in stirring ingredients—usually
vegetables—into polenta rather than spooning a sauce over it. For some recipes, the
vegetable gets a head start in boiling salted water, then the polenta is added to the
same pot and the two cook together.
These polenta dishes are from la cucina casalinga, the home cook's repertoire.
You don't find them in restaurants as they are possibly considered too humble. My
father grew corn for our pigs and chickens, so we ate polenta during the winter, but
in general, it is not a dish that one would find at city tables or in Calabrian homes
where corn isn't grown.
In poorer times, Calabrians could and did make soup with nothing but stale
bread, water, salt, parsley, garlic, and olive oil. Fortunately, Calabrian cooks are no
longer called on to work such miracles, but we have retained a taste for purity in
our soups. We never use two herbs if one will do. We want to relish the essence of
the main ingredient, usually a peak-season vegetable like green beans or fava beans.
Too many other components would muddle the taste.
For the most part, Calabria soups fall into one of two categories: minestra or
zuppa. People don't always agree on what differentiates a minestra from a zuppa, but
my own experience suggests that minestre tend to be thicker and more substantial.
Zuppe are typically more refined and brothy. The Calabrian minestra, which lies
somewhere between a soup and a stew, is always vegetable based, dense, and chunky,
with only a small amount of concentrated vegetable juices. Minestra often includes
beans, potatoes, pasta, or even a slice of stale bread; a minestra is never dainty. I
associate minestra with the peasant kitchen, while zuppa has more elegance.
Rice is not a big crop in Calabria, although some rice of the Carnaroli variety
is grown on the piana di Sibari (plain of Sibari). Although Calabrians have come to
know and enjoy risotto in recent decades, and to prepare it at home, the region's
traditional recipes for rice do not follow the risotto method. The Calabrian approach
is to boil the rice separately in salted water, then unite it for the final few minutes
with beans or seasonal vegetables that have been cooked and seasoned separately.
The result is riso, not risotto. The texture is soft and soothing, the flavors direct.
Riso typically showcases only one vegetable, not a melange. Common choices
include escarole, cabbage, fava beans, peas, wild fennel greens, borlotti beans, tomato
sauce, even potatoes. Riso in bianco, a notable exception, includes no vegetables at all
unless you count garlic. This plain but aromatic porridge is what Calabrian mothers
make for their sick children, simmering water, rice, olive oil, garlic, and a parsley
sprig together until the rice is tender and creamy.
94 MY CALABRIA
Like many Calabrians of my generation, I have come to love the creamy tex-
ture of Northern Italian risotto and have added the dish to my rice repertoire.
Many Calabrian chefs have done so as well. Dining in the region's restaurants, I
have sampled many sophisticated risotti made with local ingredients, such as wild
mushrooms, or broccoli rabe and bottarga. I wanted to include at least one of these
modern recipes—a risotto with fresh mussels (page 107)—because they reflect what
Calabrians enjoy eating when they dine out today.
Another example of the Calabrian propensity to make “meatballs” out of almost any
ingredient, these dumplings are featherlight and about the size of a large olive. Poach
them in rich chicken broth to make a delicate first course. (Photograph on page 92.)
DUMPLINGS
2 large eggs
Bring the chicken broth to a boil in a 4-quart (4-liter) pot. Reduce the heat to a bare
simmer and add the balls. Cook until they float to the surface, 2 to 3 minutes; do
not allow the broth to boil or the dumplings may break apart. Divide among eight
soup bowls and serve at once, garnishing with chopped parsley.
SERVES 8
MY CALABRIA
Minestra di Fave e Cipolle
THICK FAVA BEAN AND SPRING ONION STEW
Fava beans and spring onions mature in Calabrian gardens at about the same time—
in mid to late spring—so it is natural for cooks to combine them in the kitchen. My
mother pairs the two vegetables in this minestra, more like a vegetable stew than
a soup, seasoning it liberally with the sweet paprika we call pepe rosso (page 304).
Modern Calabrians often use tomato to give their vegetable dishes color, but older
recipes such as this one rely solely on pepe rosso.
When we lived in Calabria, and my parents preserved their homemade sausage
under a layer of pork fat, my mother would sometimes reheat a chunk of sausage in
this minestra. After the sausage had sufficiently flavored the beans, she would lift it
out, and we would have the minestra as a first course with the sausage following. To
replicate this flavor, you could pan-fry some thick slices of Fresh Homemade Fennel
Sausage (page 211) or store-bought Italian sausage, then add them to the minestra
during the final few minutes.
I serve this dish as a first course, followed by roast lamb, chicken, or pork.
Leftovers thicken considerably as the beans absorb the juices, so I'll serve the
remaining minestra on its second day as a contorno, or side dish. Note that the fava
beans are shelled but not peeled for this soup. The peel keeps the beans intact, and
most Italians like its faintly bitter flavor.
Kosher salt
1% tablespoons Calabrian paprika (page 304) or Spanish sweet
paprika
Ground hot red pepper
SERVES 6
98 MY CALABRIA
Minestra di Fagiolini Verdi con Pomodoro
MIDSUMMER SOUP OF ROMANO BEANS, POTATOES, AND TOMATO
The preferred green bean in Calabria is a long, flat-podded pole bean similar to the
Romano beans found in some seed catalogs. In the garden my father oversees in
my California backyard, he uses scraps of salvaged wood or tree prunings—he buys
nothing—to construct teepee-like trellises for the beans to clamber up. To my fam-
ily's taste, no other green bean comes close to the intense, meaty flavor and creamy
texture of these homegrown beans. You can find Romano beans, or Italian-style flat
beans, at some farmers’ markets in midsummer. They should be a rich green with
no blemishes or bulges. If you can feel seeds developing inside, the beans are too
mature. Snap them up during the brief period they're available and enjoy them in
this brothy minestra.
As with all of our minestre, the vegetables here should be thoroughly cooked, the
beans tender and even starting to split, and the potatoes beginning to break down so
as to thicken the broth. I add the tomatoes near the end because their acidity would
make the beans and potatoes soften more slowly. My mother likes to place broken
friselle (page 128), Calabrian rusks, on the bottom of her bowl before she adds the
soup to soak up the flavorful broth.
This quickly made soup concentrates all the flavors of my summer garden. I make
it for lunch or serve it as a first course for dinner. A compatible second course would
be Grilled Swordfish Rolls with Breadcrumb Stuffing (page 172) or any grilled meat.
SUGGESTED WINE: Librandi “Duca San Felice," Cird Rosso Riserva, Calabria
A relatively light Ciro, this red wine has a tart cranberry character and would be appealing ona
warm summer day.
ALTERNATE: Grenache
Kosher salt
a
Boil until the tomatoes have softened and
ES
the hot peppers have released their heat,
about 5 minutes. Taste for salt, then let
>>
7.4
cool. Serve warm or at room temperature.
}
For a heartier soup, divide the rusks or
sliced day-old bread among the serving
bowls and spoon the soup over.
100 MY CALABRIA
Zuppa di Cipolla alla Casa Janca
RITA CALLIPO'S CREAMY RED ONION SOUP
Tropea, a picturesque beach town on the Tyrrhenian Sea, is famous for the sweet
red onions grown nearby. Every souvenir shop in Tropea sells them, and you also
find them in midsummer strung up and hanging from the beams at every roadside
produce stand in the vicinity. Many Calabrians plant these red onions in their
garden. They are so mild, they can be eaten raw—and usually are. The main growing
area is actually south of Tropea, around Capo Vaticano and Ricadi, but the onions
have taken the name of the more famous beach town.
My grandmother made a soup with the famous red onions of Tropea, as Calabrian
cooks still do today, but I only vaguely recall it. So on one trip back to Calabria, I
made it a mission to taste it again, but by the end of my stay, I still hadn't encoun-
tered it. On my last night, I checked in to Casa Janca, a rustic agriturismo near the
fishing village of Pizzo, just northeast of Tropea. The proprietor, Rita Callipo, is a
highly regarded cook. When I told Rita how disappointed I was to have missed the
red onion soup of Tropea, she volunteered to make it for dinner. She purees part
of the soup to give it more body, something I'm sure my grandmother didn't do
but a refinement I have adopted. Through slow cooking, the onions become mellow
and sweet; adding a little flour makes the finished soup creamy. Rita uses vegetable
broth but I prefer to use water, as many Calabrian cooks do, to let the onion flavor
shine through. For a more substantial dish, you can serve the soup over a thick slice
of toasted bread.
To follow the soup, I might serve Swordfish in a Garlicky Broth (page 167) or
Fresh Homemade Fennel Sausage (page 211) crisped on the grill.
The best onions for this soup are those identified in markets as “Sweet Italian.”
They may have an elongated torpedo shape, or they may be round and squat. Globe-
shaped red onions tend to be less sweet, but they will work in this recipe.
PUT THE ONIONS, olive oil, and the 1 tablespoon salt in a 6- to 8-quart (6- to
8-liter) pot. Cook over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until the onions
are very sweet and so soft that they have almost melted, and until any moisture
they generate has evaporated, about an hour. Sprinkle in the flour and stir to blend
it in. Cook for about 3 minutes to get rid of the raw flour taste. Add the water or
vegetable broth, raise the heat to medium-high, and bring the soup to a boil. Lower
the heat to maintain a gentle simmer and cook until the mixture is creamy and has
a pleasing souplike consistency, about 30 minutes.
With a food mill fitted with the coarse plate, puree about half of the soup, then
return the puree to the pot. Stir it in well and reheat over moderate heat. If the
soup is thicker than you like, thin with water. Add several grinds of black pepper
and adjust the salt.
Preheat the broiler and position a rack about 4 inches (10 centimeters) from
the element. Divide the soup among six heatproof bowls. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon
pecorino cheese on the surface of each bowl of soup. Working in batches if neces-
sary, set each bowl under the broiler for a minute or two until the cheese has melted
and browned lightly. Serve immediately.
SERVES 6
102 MY CALABRIA
Vellutata di Ceci con Gamberi
CREAMY CHICK PEA SOUP WITH SHRIMP AND ANISE SEED
Located in the historic part of Rende, a university town near Cosenza, the restaurant
Pantagruel specializes in seafood. This velvety soup, which chef Tonino Napoli gar-
nished with the local black anise seed, was part of aparade of superb seafood dishes
I enjoyed there. I have not been able to find black anise seed outside of Calabria—and
it is even hard to find there—so I have substituted store-bought green anise seed.
The flavors are comparable, although the black has a more licorice-like taste.
Follow the soup with Whole Salt-Baked Sea Bass (page 181) or Swordfish
“Glutton’s Style” with Tomato, Capers, and Olives (page 175).
SHRIMP STOCK
MAKE THE SHRIMP STOCK: Peel the shrimp, reserving the shells. Devein the
shrimp by slitting them down the back and pulling out the thin dark vein. Rinse the
shrimp, then put them in a bowl and refrigerate until you are ready to poach them.
Put the shrimp shells, parsley, and salt in a 4-quart (4-liter) saucepan with 2
quarts (2 liters) cold water. Bring to a simmer, skimming any foam. Adjust the
heat to maintain a simmer and cook until the liquid has reduced by half, about 45
minutes. Strain, discarding the solids, and set the stock aside.
Heat the olive oil in a 4-quart (4-liter) saucepan over moderate heat. Add the onion,
carrot, celery, and garlic. Sauté, stirring often, until the vegetables are soft but not
colored, about 5 minutes. Add the drained chick peas and cook with the vegetables,
stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes. Add 3 cups of the shrimp stock. Bring to
a simmer and simmer gently for 10 minutes to meld the flavors.
In a blender, puree the contents of the saucepan until completely smooth.
Strain the puree through a fine sieve into a clean saucepan, pressing on the solids
to extract as much flavor as possible. Using the reserved chick pea broth (1 cup of
broth will probably be sufficient), thin the puree to a velvety consistency. Reheat
the puree over moderate heat. Taste for salt.
While the soup is reheating, bring the remaining 1 cup shrimp stock to a simmer
in a1o-inch skillet over high heat. Add the reserved shrimp and cook, turning once,
until they turn white, 1 to 2 minutes. If the chick pea soup still seems a little thick,
use this flavorful shrimp stock to thin it.
To serve, divide the hot soup among six bowls. Divide the shrimp among the
bowls. Garnish each serving with a sprinkle of crushed anise seed and a dusting of
hot pepper. Serve immediately.
SERVES 6
SUGGESTED WINE: Ippolito 1845 “Liber Pater,” Cird Rosso Classico Superiore, Calabria
A lighter-bodied everyday red wine without significant tannin and with hints of mulberry and
crabapple.
ALTERNATE: Cétes du Rhone or Chinon
SERVES 6
108 MY CALABRIA
Riso con Fagioli
SPICY CALABRIAN RICE WITH TOMATO AND BORLOTTI BEANS
Riso con fagioli should be pourable, not stiff, similar in texture to the all'onda (wavy)
style of risotto favored in Venice. If you have tomato sauce on hand and any leftover
cooked beans, you can make this dish effortlessly. I would serve it as a first course,
followed by Pan-Fried Sausage with Broccoli Rabe (page 217) or any meat course
that did not include tomato.
MAKE QUICK TOMATO SAUCE (page 53) with the following adjustments:
Make the sauce in a 4-quart (4-liter) pot instead of a skillet. When you add the
tomatoes to the pot, add 1 small dried hot red pepper or ground hot red pepper to
taste. Replace the basil with 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley.
When the tomato sauce is ready, drain the beans, reserving their broth, and stir
the beans into the sauce. Keep warm over low heat.
In a 4-quart pot (4-liter), bring 2 quarts (2 liters) water and the 2 tablespoons
salt to a boil over high heat. Add the rice and boil until the rice is al dente, no
longer hard at the core but still firm, about 13 minutes. Drain and add the rice to
the tomato sauce and beans. Bring to a simmer, stirring. Taste and adjust the salt.
Riso con fagioli should be a little thinner than risotto—pourable, not stiff. Thin with
reserved bean broth if necessary. Serve immediately.
SERVES 6
110 MY CALABRIA
IF USING DRIED BEANS, soak the
beans for at least 8 hours in water to
cover generously. Drain and place in a
large pot with fresh water to cover by 2
inches (5 centimeters). Bring to a simmer
over moderate heat, skimming any foam.
Adjust the heat to maintain a bare simmer
and cook until the beans are tender, 45
minutes or more, depending on their age.
Season with salt and let them cool in the
liquid. You should have about 3 cups (750
milliliters) cooked beans. You can prepare
the beans to this point a day or two ahead.
Heat the olive oil in a 6-quart (6-liter)
pot over moderately high heat. Brown the
sausages just until they are firm enough
Polenta with Beans and Sausage
to slice, about 5 minutes. Set them aside
to cool slightly, then cut into %-inch (6-millimeter) slices. Return the slices to the
saucepan, in batches if necessary, and brown them until they are crusty on both
sides. Lift them out with a slotted spoon and set aside.
Add the tomato puree to the saucepan. Season with salt and hot pepper to taste.
Simmer briskly for about 5 minutes to develop the flavor, using a wooden spoon
to scrape up any browned bits of meat on the bottom of the saucepan. Add 3 pints
(1% liters) water (you can substitute bean broth for some of the water) and bring
to a boil.
Reduce the heat to low and add the cornmeal in a fine, steady stream, stirring
constantly with a whisk so that no lumps form. When the mixture thickens, switch
to a wooden spoon. Continue to cook, stirring constantly, until the polenta is thick,
smooth, and creamy, with no graininess, about 15 minutes. Add small amounts of
water if necessary to keep the polenta soft, not stiff. Drain the beans and stir them
into the polenta. Cook for a couple of minutes more, then stir in the browned sau-
sage. Taste for seasoning and serve at once.
SERVES 6 TO 8
114 MY CALABRIA
Most Calabrian bakeries and many takeout food shops make pitte of various
types. Often they are baked in a heavy round pan similar to a cake pan, then cut
into wedges for sale. Among the fillings you may encounter if you make a habit of
sampling pitta around Calabria: tomato with anchovies; ricotta, Caciocavallo cheese,
and hard-cooked eggs; the spicy fish spread known as sardella (page 42); or cooked
greens. Harder to find commercially but still made in homes are the seasonal pitta di
Maju, or May pitta, stuffed with elderflowers; and pitta mijina (page 140), a cornmeal
flatbread topped with cracklings or anchovies.
Culinary historians believe that pitta is an ancient bread, its name derived from
the Latin picta, meaning painted. The earliest pitte were probably decorated flat-
breads made as religious offerings. Centuries later, in my own home, we eat pitta as
a snack or simple lunch, or as a replacement for bread at dinner.
Another notable bread, the frisella, or fresa, is a rusk, or twice-baked bread,
intended for long keeping. The baker makes a ring-shaped loaf resembling a large
bagel, then halves it horizontally after the first baking. The two halves are dried out
in a slow oven for several hours, then left in the turned-off oven overnight to dry
thoroughly. Friselle keep indefinitely. Before they are eaten, they are softened in a
little cold water, then drizzled with olive oil, oregano, garlic, and salt; or with olive
oil and chopped tomato (page 35). Most bread bakeries sell friselle because they are
a favorite Calabrian snack. They are a likely legacy of the Greeks, whose paximathia,
or barley rusks, are prepared and served in the same way.
In the old Catholic churches in Calabria, where pagan and Catholic rituals con-
verged, bread figures in several rites. On June 13, Saint Anthony's Day, Calabrians
give thanks for the blessings they have received by baking small breads and giving
them to poor people. On Holy Wednesday of the week before Easter, Calabrian
women bring decorated baskets of sprouted wheat—i lavurieddi—to the church and
set them on the altar, a rite probably linked to the ancient cult of Adonis, the god
of nature in Greek mythology. On Holy Thursday, Calabrians gather at their church
to re-enact the Last Supper, and the local women bake large cudduredde, ring-shaped
loaves, to give to the apostles. With these devotions, Calabrians acknowledge the
central role of bread in their past. Although people are far more prosperous today,
most are only two or three generations removed from the days when having flour
meant you were rich.
My parents grew their own wheat for bread and pasta, a durum wheat vari-
ety called “Senatore Cappelli.” This variety was widely planted and greatly prized
in Southern Italy until the 1960s, when it was largely replaced by higher-yielding
116 MY CALABRIA
put a whole unshelled egg in the fireplace embers until the white was firm but the
yolk was not. I would cut the top off and dip my bread into the soft, runny egg.
At Easter time, Calabrian home bakers make buccellati (also called cuzzupe),
symbolic breads decorated with whole eggs, still in the shell. The eggs are nestled
into the surface of the dough, held in place with criss-crossed strips of dough, and
baked along with the bread. These decorative breads, symbol of Christ's resurrec-
tion, are given to children, with boys receiving a braided loaf and girls a loaf in the
shape of a doll.
Like eggs from their own chickens, cheeses made from the milk of their own farm
animals kept rural Calabrians nourished in earlier times. Today, cheese remains an
everyday staple throughout Calabria, whether grated over pasta; layered with egg-
plant and tomatoes; packed in a farmer's lunch box; or served with salumi at the
start of a restaurant meal. But when it comes to cheese, Calabrians are provincial,
preferring their own cheese, or the one made by their neighbors, or possibly by
someone in the next village. Most Calabrians know someone who makes cheese, and
they will buy it by the wheel, usually direct from the maker.
Cheesemaking in Calabria reflects
the realities of this region's varied land-
scape. The province of Crotone, with its
broad, flat, coastal pastures, is hospi-
table to sheep, and consequently, much
of Calabria’s best pecorino cheese comes
from this area. Farmers with land on the
hillsides will keep mostly goats and make
goat ricotta and aged goat cheese. The high
plateau of La Sila supports cattle hus-
bandry and the production of cow's milk
cheeses, such as Caciocavallo and Provola.
Some farmers keep mixed herds of
goats and sheep, depending on the prop-
erty they own, and they will often mix
the milk for cheese. Thus, in Calabria,
the name “pecorino” does not necessarily
indicate a 100 percent sheep's milk cheese.
a Many Calabrian pecorinos include some
A shepherd in Verbicaro
118 MY CALABRIA
Pane Calabrese
MY FAMILY'S EVERYDAY BREAD
Bread has long had a sacred place on the Calabrian table, and until modern times,
that bread was homemade. Commercial bakeries hardly existed in Calabria before
World War II, so most families baked their own bread in their own wood-burning
oven. Families were larger then—my mother was one of six children—and bread
was on the table morning, noon, and night, so each family's needs were enormous.
My mother recalls making 20 to 25 kilos of dough (about 50 pounds) at a time.
The bread-baking ritual in my grandmother's household was typical of the day.
Because it was time consuming and costly to fire up the bread oven frequently,
bread baking happened only every couple of weeks. Preparations began in the early
morning, and baking went on all day to make enough to last until the next baking.
My grandmother had a madia, a large wooden trough with sloping sides for
mixing the dough. The trough would be placed on a bench or on a row of chairs to
position it at a comfortable height. The dough was so voluminous that two people
would often work on it at once, bending over the trough and punching the dough
as they worked their way from one end to
the other. It could take an hour to knead
so much dough to the proper consistency.
Some housewives simply did not have the
physique for this labor and would hire
one of the strong local peasant women,
who were paid in bread and other foods.
Like most of her neighbors, my grand-
mother had practically no counter space
in her modest kitchen, so she comman-
deered the bed for a bread-rising station.
She would spread a big cloth over the bed,
plop the mass of kneaded dough in the
middle, and drape it in several blankets
to keep it warm. When it had risen suf-
ficiently, she would set her wooden pasta
board on the bed next to the dough, cut
the dough into smaller pieces, and shape
A loaf of bread I bought in the town of each piece into a round, a ring, or a long
Camigliatello
TO CREATE THE BREAD SPONGE: Put the starter in a 2-quart (2-liter) bowl
ur and water. Stir well with a wooden spoon. Cover the bow! with a
plate or cloth. Wrap with towels ormy 2 blanket to keep it warm and leave in the warm-
your kitchen overnight. ;
TO MAKE THE DOUGH THE FOLLOWING DAY: Put the flour in a large
ke 2 well in the center, and put the sponge in the well. Dissolve the salt
in the warm water, stirring until the water becomes clear again. Add the salted
water to the well gradually while mixing the water and sponge with your hand until
blended. Begin incorporating the flour from the sides of the bowl, mixing with your
to come together and clean the sides of the bowl. Switch
sading motion—my mother pounds the dough repeatedly and vigorously
t—and continue kneading or pounding until the dough is firm, smooth,
springy, 10 to 15 minutes. Although the dough may seem sticky at first, the flour
will eventually absorb the moisture. Because the dough is so moist, I find it easier to
manipulate in the bowl. If it is more comfortable for you, turn the dough out onto
2 work surface to knead it but try not to add any more flour.
FOR THE FIRST RISE: Shape the dough into a large ball and dust it lightly
with tlour. Place it ina large bowl and dust the top again with flour. Drape a clean
1e bowl, then wrap the bowl in a thick blanket and set it in the
in your kitchen. The objective is to provide an environment of about
MY CALABRIA
80°F (27°C), which is warmer than most homes; the blanket wrap will help keep the
dough warmer than the room temperature.
Let the dough rest until doubled in size, 2% to 3 hours. It has risen enough
when it develops “stretch marks" on the surface. If you're still unsure, cut into
the dough with a paring knife and look for the pockets of gas that indicate that the
dough has sufficiently fermented.
Note: If you are planning to make My Family's Everyday Bread again, now is the
time to set aside a small amount of dough as your starter for next time. Place 4
ounces (115 grams) of dough in a bowl, cover the bowl with a lid or plate, and let
stand at room temperature for one to two days to develop flavor. Then refrigerate
in an airtight container.
TO SHAPE THE LOAVES: With a knife or bench scraper, divide the risen dough
into three equal pieces. Flour the dough as needed to prevent sticking, but handle it
gently; do not punch it down. (You can make one giant loaf, if you like, or two loaves
instead of three, but these larger loaves tend to be bigger than most households can
eat before the bread goes stale.)
You can shape the dough however you like, but the three shapes that my mother
and I make most often are:
* Panetta: a round loaf. From this recipe, you can make three 6-inch-round (15-
centimeter-round) panette. To shape a panetta, use your fingertips to grasp the
edges of a piece of dough and draw them toward the center as if you were making
a drawstring bag. Gently pinch them together, then turn the dough over so the
pinched seam is down. Use your palms to finish shaping the dough into a neat
round ball.
¢ Filone: an elongated loaf, thicker than a baguette, with tapered ends. From this
recipe, you can make three filoni, each about 10 inches (25 centimeters) long.
To shape afilone, use the palms of both hands to stretch each piece of dough as
gently as possible into a log about 10 inches (25 centimeters) long and 5 inches
(13 centimeters) wide.
* Cudduredda: a large doughnut or ring shape. With this shape, we make the
Calabrian rusks called friselle (page 128). From this recipe, you can make three
cudduredde or twelve friselle. To shape a cudduredda, form one of the three pieces
TO BAKE THE LOAVES: You can bake the loaves directly on a rack lined
with unglazed baking tiles (see Resources, page 368), the preferred method, or on
parchment-lined baking sheets. Depending on the shape of your loaves and the size
and number ofyour ovens, you may need to bake the bread in two shifts. It is better
to bake in shifts than to try to bake on two racks in one oven. It won't hurt the loaves
on the second shift to rise a little longer. If you do bake in shifts, be sure to return
the oven temperature to the recommended starting temperature.
To bake directly on baking tiles, position a rack in the lower third of the oven and
line it with baking tiles. Thirty minutes before baking, preheat the oven to 500°F
(260°C). Just before you put the loaves in the oven, reduce the heat to 450°F (230°C).
Gently transfer one of the loaves to a floured pizza peel and slide it off onto the hot
tiles. If there is room, put a second loaf alongside. Bake until the bottom of each
loaf is firm and deep gold, about 15 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to
400°F (200°C) and continue baking until the loaves are well browned all over and
124 MY CALABRIA
hard on the top and bottom, 20 to 25 minutes longer. Cool completely on a rack
before slicing.
To bake on baking sheets, line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Thirty
minutes before baking, preheat the oven to 475°F (250°C). Just before baking, gently
transfer the risen loaves to the prepared baking sheets—two loaves on one sheet,
one on the other—disturbing the loaves as little as possible.
° Ifusing an electric oven, put the baking sheet on the lowest rack and bake until the
bottom of each loaf is firm and deep gold, 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer the baking
sheet to a rack in the upper third of the oven, reduce the oven temperature to
400°F (200°C) and continue baking until the loaves are well browned all over and
hard on the top and bottom, 25 to 30 minutes longer. Cool completely on a rack
before slicing.
¢ Ifusing a gas oven, put the baking sheet on a middle rack and bake until the bottom
of each loafis firm and deep gold, 15 to 20 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature
to 400°F (200°C) and continue baking until the loaves are well browned all over
and hard on the top and bottom, 25 to 30 minutes longer. Cool completely on a
rack before slicing.
Whole-Wheat Variation
To make a whole-wheat version of this bread, substitute 1% pounds (675 grams)
whole-wheat flour for 1% pounds (675 grams) unbleached all-purpose flour in the
dough. Raise the volume of water in the dough to 4% cups (1 liter).
Bread Starter
My family's homemade bread contains no commercial yeast, only the airborne yeast
and bacteria present in the starter my mother brought to California from Calabria
in her purse. When she was growing up, starter was treated with great care and rev-
erence. If your neighbor's starter had become sluggish from lack of use, you would
give her a chunk of yours. Some neighbors shared a starter, passing it from house
TO CREATE VA STARTER:
* On Day One, combine % cup (2% ounces/70 grams) unbleached all-purpose flour
and % teaspoon active dry yeast in a 3- to 4-cup (750-milliliter to 1-liter) bowl. Stir
with a fork to blend. Add % cup (60 milliliters) of warm water (about 105°F/45°C)
and mix with a fork or wooden spoon. The mixture will be stiff and a little difficult
to stir but too moist to knead; blend as well as you can.
Cover the bowl with a plate or cloth. Wrap with towels or a blanket to keep
it warm and leave in the warmest part of your kitchen for 24 hours.
* On Day Two, divide the starter in half and discard one-half. Return the half you
are keeping to the bowl and add % cup unbleached all-purpose flour and % cup of
warm water (about 105°F/45°C). Repeat the mixing and rising as for Day One.
* On Day Three, repeat the same procedure as for Day Two. After 24 hours, you can
refrigerate the starter in an airtight container, or proceed with the creation of
the Bread Sponge required for My Family's Everyday Bread (page 119).
126 MY CALABRIA
Breadcrumbs: A Useful End for Dry Loaves
In earlier times, every Calabrian household had a hand grater for reducing chunks
of dry bread into a heap of crumbs. The drier the bread, the finer the crumbs. Today,
virtually every Calabrian bakery sells pangrattato (literally, grated bread).
Breadcrumbs are used lavishly in the Calabrian kitchen. We dip cauliflower
(page 266), fennel, and other vegetables in beaten egg and fine breadcrumbs to make
crisp, golden fritters. We sprinkle toasted breadcrumbs for crunch on some pasta
dishes, such as Whole-Wheat Linguine with Anchovies and Breadcrumbs (page 68).
We use breadcrumbs for bulk in stuffings, as with Grilled Swordfish Rolls with
Breadcrumb Stuffing (page 172). And we layer them with baked vegetables to absorb
moisture, as for Potatoes Layered with Artichokes and Breadcrumbs (page 259).
Consequently, Iam never without a large bag of breadcrumbs in the freezer.
Most American loaves, even when stale, are not dense enough to grate, so I
use the blender or food processor to make breadcrumbs. I prepare two types: fresh
breadcrumbs from day-old bread; and fine dry breadcrumbs from bread that has
become too hard to eat, typically after about a week. The fresh breadcrumbs are
useful in stuffings and layered vegetable dishes and the dried breadcrumbs for coat-
ing vegetables or meatballs before frying.
Use a dense, day-old French or Italian country-style loaf containing only flour,
water, yeast, and salt (no fat, sugar, honey, or herbs). Do not remove the crusts. Cut
the bread into 1-inch cubes and process them in a blender, filling it no more than
halfway, or in a food processor until they are as fine as possible. Freeze in a plastic
freezer bag for up to a month. (See recipe for toasted breadcrumbs on page 59.)
Use a dense French or Italian country-style loaf containing only flour, water, yeast,
and salt (no fat, sugar, honey, or herbs). Do not remove the crusts. Cut the bread
into 1-inch cubes and leave them on a tray at room temperature for several days
until they are rock hard. Process them in a blender, filling it no more than halfway,
or in a food processor until fine. For the finest texture, sieve the processed crumbs
and use only the fine crumbs. Reprocess and re-sieve the coarse crumbs. Freeze in
a plastic freezer bag for up to a year.
Friselle, also called frisedde or frese, are round loaves of bread with a hole in the
center, like an extra-large bagel. The bread is baked until done, then halved hori-
zontally and re-baked at a low temperature until completely dry, golden brown,
and crisp. Friselle are lightweight and last for months, so Calabrian shepherds and
fishermen probably packed them when they were going away from home for long
periods. Friselle must be reconstituted by being soaked briefly in water, just long
enough to soften them but not so long that they crumble. Today, Calabrians typi-
cally eat them as a snack, topped with chopped fresh tomato, olive oil, garlic, and
basil (page 35), or even more simply with garlic, olive oil, and dried oregano. Every
Calabrian bakery sells them, since few people make them at home anymore. The
packaged friselle I have sampled in this country are a disappointment—they're too
small and the texture is too much like Melba toast—so I continue to make my own.
128 MY CALABRIA
eit
TO BAKE THE FRISELLE: Preheat the oven to 475°F (250°C). Line a baking
sheet with parchment paper and transfer two friselle to the baking sheet. As you
place them on the baking sheet, stretch them to restore the hole to a 2-inch (5-cen-
timeter) diameter and flatten them slightly with the palm of your hand. You don't
want them to puffin the oven like bread. Bake one sheet at a time unless you have
multiple ovens. Between batches, return the oven temperature to 475°F (250°C).
¢ If using an electric oven, bake the friselle on the lowest rack until the bottoms are
firm and deep gold, about 15 minutes. Transfer the baking sheet to a rack in the
upper third of the oven, reduce the oven temperature to 400°F (200°C) and con-
tinue baking until the friselle are golden all over, about 15 minutes longer. Cool
completely on a rack. Repeat with the remaining friselle.
¢ Ifusing a gas oven, bake the friselle on a middle rack for 15 minutes, then reduce
the oven temperature to 400°F (200°C) and continue baking until the friselle are
golden all over, about 15 minutes longer. Cool completely on a rack. Repeat with
the remaining friselle.
YIELD: 12 RUSKS
130 MY CALABRIA
Pitta con Verdura
STUFFED PIZZA WITH CHARD AND DILL
Borage and dill grew wild around my hometown of Verbicaro in spring, so local
cooks would gather these aromatic herbs to fill a pitta, the Calabrian version of
stuffed pizza. If they couldn't find borage, they would use chard from their garden.
You don't often see fresh dill in Italian recipes, but it is traditional in this one.
Curiously, the greens are not cooked first. They are chopped and mixed with
scallions or spring onions and wilted with salt, as if for sauerkraut. The 30-minute
salting draws out moisture so that the filling won't be soggy. Let the pitta cool before
slicing so the crusty bread will absorb the flavorful juices from the greens. If you
cut it too soon—a big temptation—the juices will run out.
Although pitta is traditionally made with a chunk of bread dough, I usually
make mine with a pizza dough that contains yeast and olive oil. The pizza dough is
easier to make in small quantity than My Family's Everyday Bread (page 119), so I
can make pitta more often.
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more oil for coating
the bowl
FOR THE DOUGH: Put the flour and salt in a large bowl and stir to distribute
the salt well. Put the warm water in a small bowl and sprinkle the yeast over it. Let
stand for 2 minutes to soften, then whisk with a fork to blend. Make a well in the
center of the flour and put the dissolved yeast and the olive oil in the well. Begin
incorporating flour from the sides with one hand. When you have incorporated
all the flour and the dough cleans the sides of the bowl, which should only take
about a minute, switch to a one-handed kneading motion, securing the bow! with
the other hand. The dough will be moist and a little sticky at this point but resist
adding additional flour. By kneading it in the bowl instead of on a work surface,
you should be able to avoid adding flour. When the dough is no longer sticky, after
about 5 minutes, turn it out onto a work surface. Knead with both hands until the
dough is smooth and soft, about 5 minutes longer, dusting with flour only as needed
to prevent sticking.
FOR THE FIRST RISE: Transfer the dough to a clean bowl lightly coated with
olive oil and turn the dough to coat it with the oil. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic
wrap. Let rise in the warmest place in your kitchen until it doubles in volume, 1%
to 2 hours.
FOR THE SECOND RISE: Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and
shape it into a ball. Dust the ball lightly with flour and place it on a clean kitchen
towel. Cover loosely with another clean kitchen towel. Let rise again in the warmest
place in your kitchen until it doubles in volume, about 1% hours.
MY CALABRIA
Top left: Stretching dough in the pan for the pitta's bottom layer. Top right: Sealing the pitta with the
top layer of dough. Bottom: Pitta stuffed with Swiss chard, dill, and scallions just out of the oven.
FOR THE FILLING: If the chard ribs are more than 1 inch (2% centimeters)
wide, halve them lengthwise, then cut crosswise into %4-inch (6-millimeter) pieces.
Cut the leaves lengthwise into 2-inch-wide (5-centimeter-wide) ribbons, then stack
the ribbons and cut crosswise into about %-inch (12-millimeter) pieces. Leaving the
scallions whole, slit the white part in half lengthwise, or quarter lengthwise if large,
then cut the scallions—white and green parts—crosswise into %-inch (18-millimeter)
pieces. In a large bowl, combine the chard ribs and leaves, the scallions, and the
salt. Toss well with your hands to distribute the salt evenly. Let stand for at least 30
minutes to wilt the greens, or up to an hour.
Drain the greens to remove accumulated liquid, then rinse them repeatedly
to remove excess salt. Taste to make sure they are no longer too salty. Working in
batches, squeeze the greens between your hands to remove all excess liquid, then
transfer them to a bowl. Add the dill, paprika, hot pepper to taste, and olive oil and
mix well with your hands.
Preheat the oven to 475°F (250°C). Lightly oil a heavy 12- by 18-inch (30- by 43-
centimeter) baking sheet. Place the risen dough on the baking sheet and gently
press and pat it until it covers the baking sheet and is evenly thick everywhere.
With a short side of the baking sheet nearest you, cover the bottom half of the
dough with the filling, spreading the filling evenly but leaving a1-inch (2%-centimeter)
border. Lift the exposed half of the dough over the filling to enclose it and press the
edges together to seal. You should have a rectangle approximately 8% by 12 inches
(22 by 30 centimeters). If you feel an air bubble under the surface, pierce the dough
in one or two places with a skewer and press to vent the air.
Bake for 20 minutes, then rotate the pan in the oven and lower the oven tem-
perature to 400°F (200°C). Continue baking until the pitta is golden brown on top
and bottom, about 10 minutes longer. Transfer to a rack and let cool for at least an
hour before slicing.
134 MY CALABRIA
Pizza con Tonno e Bottarga di Pizzo
TUNA AND RED ONION PIZZA WITH BOTTARGA
The pizzerias throughout Calabria make pizza con tonno, with local oil-packed tuna
and the region's famous sweet red onions. My cousin Alberto, who has a wood-
burning oven at his home in Santa Maria del Cedro, near Scalea, considers it his
specialty. I've embellished Alberto’s recipe a bit, brushing the flattened pizza dough
with garlicky oil before topping it, and adding a flurry of grated bottarga when the
pizza comes out of the oven. You can omit the bottarga, but I like its salty ocean
flavor with the tuna. Capers would be another good addition. This style of pizza,
with no tomato sauce, is known as pizza bianca (white pizza) in Italy.
Pizza dough freezes so successfully that I always make a large batch. This
recipe makes enough dough for four 8-inch (20-centimeter) pizzas or three 12-inch
(30-centimeter) pizzas. The tuna and red onion topping is sufficient for two 8-inch
(20-centimeter) pizzas. To freeze the remaining two balls, flatten them into disks
after the second rise, wrap each disk tightly in plastic wrap, then place each one in
a plastic freezer storage bag and freeze. To use, thaw the disks at room temperature,
then stretch them, add toppings, and bake.
Dough for Pitta and Pizza (page 131), prepared through the first
rise
TOPPING
FOR THE TOPPING: Drain the tuna of its oil and set aside, reserving 2 table-
spoons oil in a small bowl. In another bowl, put the sliced red onions, the salt, and
the reserved oil. Toss well with your hands and set aside.
In a small skillet, combine the olive oil, garlic, and parsley. Warm briefly over
low heat, just until the garlic begins to give off its fragrance. Set aside.
TO ASSEMBLE THE PIZZA: With your hand, flatten one ball of dough on
a work surface, pressing it into a circle. Pick the dough up with both hands and
stretch it into an 8-inch (20-centimeter) round, keeping it as evenly thin as possible.
Set the round of dough on a floured pizza peel. Brush with half of the garlic-parsley
oil. Top with half of the onions, scattering them evenly, then with half of the tuna,
breaking up any chunks into small pieces. Transfer the pizza to the preheated
tiles or stone and bake until the dough is well browned and crisp on the edges and
bottom, about 6 minutes. Remove from the oven and grate bottarga over the surface
with a fine grater, such as a Microplane, using as much as you like. Cut into wedges
and serve immediately.
Repeat with the second ball of dough and the remaining topping.
136 MY CALABRIA
Pizza con Zucchine e Fiori di Zucchine
PIZZA WITH GRILLED ZUCCHINI AND STUFFED ZUCCHINI BLOSSOMS
Many Calabrian pizza restaurants offer a pizza all'ortolana ("pizza from the garden"),
topped with grilled zucchini, eggplant, and peppers. My garden produces so many
pretty zucchini blossoms that I wanted to create a pizza that would show them off,
too. The zucchini plant produces two types of blossoms: male and female. The female
flower yields the fruit. The male, after fertilization duty, serves no purpose. Those
are the ones to pick for stuffing. They have long stems, while the female flowers have
the zucchini attached. Pick the blossoms in the early morning, while they are open.
If you are purchasing the blossoms at a farmers’ market or retail shop, buy the
perkiest ones you can find, male or female. If you are not using the blossoms right
away, put them in a plastic bag, inflate with air, close tightly, and refrigerate.
Dough for Pitta and Pizza (page 131), prepared through the first
rise
TOPPING
¥% pound (225 grams) zucchini, each about 5 inches (13 centimeters) long
GARLIC-PARSLEY OIL
FOR THE TOPPING: Preheat a gas grill to high, or prepare a hot charcoal fire. Cut
the zucchini lengthwise into slices about “6 inch (5 millimeters) thick. Salt the slices
and brush with the olive oil on both sides. Grill, turning once, until tender, about
2 minutes per side. Avoid washing the zucchini blossoms, which would wilt them,
but do inspect them carefully for bugs and brush off any dirt. With your fingers,
remove the stamens—the threadlike particles—inside each blossom. Tuck a nugget
of goat cheese and a piece of anchovy in each blossom.
In a small skillet, combine the ingredients for the garlic-parsley oil. Warm briefly
over low heat, just until the garlic begins to give off its fragrance. Set aside.
TO ASSEMBLE THE PIZZA: With your hand, flatten the one ball of dough on
a work surface, pressing it into a circle. Pick the dough up with both hands and
stretch it into a 12-inch (30-centimeter) round, keeping it as evenly thin as possible.
Set the round of dough on a generously floured pizza peel. Brush with half of the
garlic-parsley oil. Top with the mozzarella and Asiago cheeses. Arrange the zuc-
chini slices on the pizza like spokes on a wheel. Place the stuffed blossoms between
the slices. Brush the blossoms and zucchini with the remaining garlic-parsley oil.
Crumble the goat cheese on top.
Transfer the pizza to the preheated tiles or stone and bake until the dough is well
browned and crisp on the edges and bottom, about 6 minutes. Cut into wedges and
serve immediately.
140 MY CALABRIA
1 garlic clove, halved
Ground hot red pepper
IN A LARGE BOWL, stir the cornmeal and salt to blend. Add the boiling water
and stir until the cornmeal is thoroughly moistened. Set aside until cool.
Put the warm water in a small bowl. Sprinkle the yeast over the water and let
stand for 2 minutes to soften. Whisk with a fork until the yeast dissolves.
Add the flour and the dissolved yeast to the cornmeal. Mix with your hand until
the ingredients come together into a well blended but sticky dough. Cover the bowl
tightly with plastic wrap and let rise until the dough has doubled, about 1% hours.
Line the lowest oven rack with baking tiles or a baking stone. Preheat the oven
to its highest setting, at least 525°F (275°C) if possible.
On a pizza peel or rimless baking sheet, place the flattened cabbage leaf, if using,
or place a sheet of parchment paper about 12 inches (30 centimeters) square. Dust
the parchment lightly with flour. The cabbage leaf does not need flour.
Turn the dough out onto the cabbage leaf or parchment paper and prod it with
moistened fingertips into a flat 10-inch (25-centimeter) circle. With one moistened
fingertip, make about 2 dozen evenly spaced dimples in the dough, poking almost
but not all the way through.
Slide the pitta onto the preheated tiles or baking stone and bake until golden
brown and firm on both top and bottom, about 15 minutes. Use the pizza peel or
rimless baking sheet to transfer the pitta to a work surface; do not turn off the
oven. Peel off the cabbage leaf or parchment paper. Rub the surface of the pitta all
over with the cut side of the garlic halves. Sprinkle generously with hot pepper to
taste and paprika, then drizzle with olive oil. Tear the anchovy fillets into %-inch
(6-millimeter) pieces and sprinkle them evenly over the surface.
Return the pitta to the oven until it is again piping hot, about 3 minutes. Cut
into wedges and serve immediately.
Whenever my grandmother made bread, she made a small fried flatbread for my
mom as a snack. After removing a fistful of the risen bread dough, she would fash-
ion a flattened round, then fry it in a skillet to make a small, plain pizzella. After we
moved to California, my mother befriended an immigrant from Naples who said she
also made fried pizzas from her bread dough and topped them with tomato sauce.
Ever since, when my mother makes bread, she sets aside a little of the dough to
make pizza fritta with a tomato topping. My two children devour it. They have also
discovered the pizza fritta with a similar tomato topping sold at the beach in Scalea,
on Calabria’s west coast, where we vacation every other summer. A vendor strolls
among the sunbathers with an insulated container hung around his neck, peddling
irresistible fried pizzas made by his wife.
If you don't want to make bread, you can make pizza fritta with pizza dough. It
works just as well. However, if you are making Everyday Bread (page 119) and want
to make pizza fritta with some of that dough, set aside one-third of the bread dough
after the first rise. Proceed as described below for the pizza dough after its first rise.
Dough for Pitta and Pizza (page 131), prepared through the first rise
5 to 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil for frying, or more if needed
Quick Tomato Sauce (page 53)
TURN THE RISEN DOUGH out onto a work surface and divide into 2 equal
pieces. Shape each piece into a ball and put each in a lightly oiled bowl; turn the
dough to coat with the oil. Cover each bowl tightly with plastic wrap. Let rise until
doubled, about 1% hours.
Heat a 12-inch (30-centimeter) skillet over moderately high heat. Add 3 table-
spoons of the olive oil and swirl to coat. While the oil heats, transfer one ball of
dough to a work surface and punch it down. Pick it up with both hands and stretch
it into a circle as you would stretch dough for pizza, making a round just large
142 MY CALABRIA
enough to cover the bottom of the skillet. Lay the round of dough back down on
your work surface and make sure it is of even thickness. Carefully place the round
in the hot oil and immediately make nine or ten slits in the dough with the tip of
a soup spoon, piercing all the way through. The slits keep the pizza from puffing
excessively.
Cook, adjusting the heat as necessary, until the bottom is richly browned, 2 to
4 minutes. As the pizza cooks, use two soup spoons to rotate the pizza clockwise in
the skillet so the bottom browns evenly. Turn with tongs and cook the second side,
again rotating it frequently with the two spoons to ensure even browning. When the
second side is well browned, in 2 to 4 minutes, transfer the fried pizza to a serving
platter.
Add enough additional oil to the skillet to make 3 tablespoons. Repeat the
stretching and frying with the second round of dough.
Reheat the tomato sauce if necessary. Divide the hot sauce between the two pizzas,
spreading it evenly over the surface. Cut into wedges and serve immediately.
This recipe most closely duplicates the creamy texture and rich taste of the ricotta
I grew up with, the ricotta my father made daily. In Southern Italy, ricotta is a by-
product of pecorino cheese production. Dairy farmers like my father would reheat
the whey drained from the pecorino, often with some fresh milk added, to coagulate
the remaining bits of nutritious protein in the whey. (“Ricotta” means “recooked.")
Whatever ricotta my father didn't sell fresh, on the day it was made, he would salt
and age to make ricotta salata. These cheeses would be stored on a rack suspended
from the ceiling beams, directly over the hearth, and they would dry and become
lightly smoked as they aged. Ricotta affumicata (smoked ricotta) is still a Calabrian
specialty, delicious grated on pasta or eaten as a table cheese.
Fresh, warm ricotta on crusty bread is a favorite Calabrian breakfast or snack.
My children love it with honey on top, or for dessert with bits of bittersweet choco-
late and sugar. Most people no longer have the luxury of tasting warm ricotta,
however, because production has become
industrialized. With this recipe, you can
have that experience in your own kitchen.
In Calabria, fresh ricotta is often sold
in the perforated plastic basket it drained
in. At home, you invert the basket, reveal-
ing a cheese with an attractive shape
that's easy to slice. Ricotta made on the
farm is sometimes packed and sold in
small, tubular baskets hand woven from
a sturdy dried grass called giunco (Juncus
depauperatus). The baskets hold about 2
cups (450 grams), but they are always
generously mounded on top, so they look
almost like ice cream cones.
When my father was young, in the
days before plastic wrap, cheesemakers
would lay wild fern leaves on top of the
molded ricotta, criss-crossing them to ; oo ae ee
cover it, and then tie the leaves in place
Fresh ricotta wrapped in wild fern leaves
LA4 MY CALABRIA
with a strip of giunco. At serving time, you removed the fern leaves, twisted the
tubular basket as if you were wringing out a towel, and the ricotta emerged in a
log shape. Although the giunco baskets aren't available here (and are disappearing
in Calabria), the plastic draining baskets are not hard to find. (See Resources, page
368). They aren't essential—you can drain ricotta in a sieve—but they give your
ricotta a more professional appearance.
When my mother and I initially developed this recipe, we were trying to dupli-
cate the richness of sheep's milk ricotta. That's why we enriched the milk with a little
cream. Although I frowned on the idea for a long time, I finally made the ricotta
with low-fat (2 percent) milk only and was surprised by the good results. The low-
fat ricotta is light on the tongue, without the richness of the full-fat version, but
still better than anything you can buy. If you are calorie- or fat-conscious, you can
successfully make this ricotta with a gallon of low-fat milk and omit the cream.
Rennet loses strength over time. Replace liquid animal rennet that is older than
one year; replace liquid vegetable rennet after six to nine months.
PUT THE MILK and cream in a heavy-bottomed pot and stir to mix well. Warm
the mixture over moderate heat. Remove from the heat as soon as the milk begins
to foam and climb toward the top of the pot. The temperature of the milk will be
200°F to 210°F (95°C to 100°C).
Pour the milk into another pot to leave behind any scorched milk adhering to
the bottom of the pot. Add the salt and stir to dissolve it.
Let the milk cool to 100°F (38°C), which takes about an hour. (You can speed
this process considerably by placing the pot in a bath ofice water.) Skim any foam
BUTIRRO: This unusual cow's milk cheese typically resembles a small Caciocavallo
with its pear shape and topknot. The exterior is the same pasta filata used for
Caciocavallo, but inside is a surprise: a large knob of butter. Initially, Butirro was
the shepherd's way of preserving his butter. Today, Calabrians slice it thinly and
eat it with bread as part of an antipasto platter.
148 MY CALABRIA
PECORINO DEL MONTE PORO: A sheep's milk cheese from the province of
Vibo Valentia, Pecorino del Monte Poro may also contain some goat's milk. It is
moist and mellow when young, but age makes it harder, saltier, and more peppery.
Younger wheels are eaten as a table cheese, with salumi, sun-dried tomatoes, and
other vegetables preserved under oil; mature wheels are used for grating.
PROVOLA: This pasta filata cheese is made with cow's milk according to a recipe
similar to that used for Caciocavallo. The cheeses are usually shaped like a thick log
that tapers at one end, and the size varies. Provola is aged anywhere from a few
days to a couple of months, becoming firmer and more pronounced in taste with
age. Calabrians eat it as a table cheese and slice or grate it for cooking. Provolone,
despite the similar name, is a more piquant cheese.
RICOTTA: The whey drained from pecorino curds is never thrown away in
Calabria. Instead, it is reheated, usually with a little milk added, to make ricotta. In
a traditional ricotta operation, the whey or milk-enriched whey and some salt will
be heated almost to boiling, which causes curds to coalesce on the surface. These
fluffy curds are scooped off and into waiting perforated molds. Within an hour, they
have drained sufficiently to send to market. Ricotta this fresh is warm, moist, milky,
and sweet, with delicate curds that dissolve on your tongue.
Ricotta in Calabria may be made with sheep's, goat's, or cow's milk, or a mixture
of sheep's and goat's milk, depending on the animal husbandry in the region. My
personal preference is for ricotta made with sheep's milk, which is higher in fat
than goat's or cow's milk and produces a particularly rich and creamy ricotta with
a distinctive animal-like scent. It is most prevalent in the zones where sheep are
raised, such as in the Crotone area.
It is increasingly hard to find Calabrian shepherds who operate as my father
did, maintaining a small herd of goats and sheep and making pecorino and ricotta
for the local market. Few shepherds have the resources to build a cheesemaking
facility that meets the European Union's hygiene standards, so most sell their milk
to larger dairies now. Yet Calabrians in search of natural, handmade foods still
know where to find these cheesemaking shepherds, and know they must get there
by mid-morning to stand a chance of securing some fresh ricotta. When my family
vacations in Calabria in summer, we phone ahead to reserve our ricotta. We pick it
up in the morning and enjoy it warm for lunch. Ricotta is always best the day it is
made, especially if it has not been refrigerated. If it is two or three days old, we use
it in cooking.
Ricotta salata: Ricotta intended for longer keeping is salted on the outside and air
dried for at least a week or two, often much longer. The more it is aged, the dryer
and saltier it becomes. In Calabria, ricotta salata is a rindless cheese, usually in the
shape of a small log. Unless it is quite young, it is used primarily as a grating cheese
for pasta and is especially compatible with summer vegetables such as tomato, egg-
plant, zucchini, and peppers.
Ricotta affumicata: On the Ionian side, ricotta affumicata (smoked ricotta, see
Resources, page 368) largely takes the place ofricotta salata. In the most traditional
farmstead operations, the fresh ricotta is unmolded as soon as it can hold its shape,
then salted, put on mats, and kept for about three days in an area where it is infused
with wood smoke. There might be a small smokehouse on the premises or, in more
rudimentary settings, the ricotta is suspended near the fireplace that heats the milk
vat. Ricotta affumicata is grated over pasta dishes and is particularly tasty with lamb
ragu (page 82).
a MY CALABRIA
Frittata di Ricotta
FRITTATA WITH FRESH RICOTTA
If you take care not to overcook it, this frittata will be moist and as light as air. If
you have leftovers, make a frittata sandwich. My mother prepared them all the time
for my father when he worked on our farm in Calabria. She would sandwich a piece
of frittata between slices of homemade bread and pack it to go.
Many Calabrians add sausage to this frittata. If you would like to try that varia-
tion, remove a sweet or hot Italian sausage link from its casing, brown the crumbled
sausage, and add it to the onion before adding the beaten egg to the skillet.
PREHEAT THE OVEN to 400°F (200°C) and position a rack in the middle of the
oven.
If using store-bought ricotta, put it in a sieve set over a bowl for about 30
minutes to allow any excess moisture to drain. Homemade ricotta does not need
additional draining.
In a large bowl, combine the eggs, ricotta, pecorino, parsley, % teaspoon of the
salt, and several grinds of pepper. Mix with a fork until well blended.
Heat the olive oil in a 10-inch (25-centimeter) nonstick skillet over medium
heat. Add the onion and remaining 2 teaspoon salt. Sauté until the onion is soft-
ened and translucent, about 5 minutes; do not let it brown.
Transfer the skillet to the middle rack of the oven and bake until the top of the
frittata is firm, golden, and puffy, about 10 minutes. If you're not sure that it is
fully cooked, make a small slit on the surface with a paring knife to see whether the
interior is set or still runny and needs to cook a bit more.
Slide the frittata onto a cutting board. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.
Cut into wedges to serve.
'
On the left: Pecorino curds just after being placed in the basket and before being
pressed down. On the right: Two hours later, pecorino before being salted.
152 MY CALABRIA
Making Rennet the Old Way
Like cheesemakers for centuries before him, my father made his own rennet, the
ingredient that helps turn milk into curds. This natural coagulant, from the enzyme
chymosin, abounds in the stomachs of young, milk-fed animals such as baby goats
and lambs. The process may sound pitiless to some because the young animal must
be sacrificed, but it is a routine part of traditional farm life in Calabria.
On my father’s farm in the mountains above Verbicaro, goats were born in late
winter, when there was little fresh grass to eat. Consequently, the mothers’ milk
production was low. Ifa doe gave birth to twins, she would not have enough milk for
both. My father would sacrifice one twin when it was between one and three weeks
old, the time of maximum rennin production.
He would harvest the stomach and inflate it using a hollow reed or a length of
tubular pasta to channel the air from his mouth. Then he would tie the inflated
stomach shut, hang this curious
vessel by the chimney, and wait for
its contents to dry. A few weeks later,
he would add some fresh milk to the
contents, which by then resembled
dry cottage cheese. The enzyme would
coagulate the fresh milk, producing
more curds, and when they dried
down sufficiently, he would slit open
the stomach and scrape out the paste-
like contents. After salting the paste
heavily, he would store it in a sealed
container, ready to do its part when
he resumed cheesemaking in the
spring.
An olive-size nugget of this rennet
was sufficient to coagulate 20 quarts
(20 liters) of milk. My father would
wrap the nugget in a cloth and steep it
in water to make an extract, then add
the extract to the fresh goat's milk.
Baby goat stomachs hanging to dry to use as
rennet for making ricotta
My mother used to prepare these savory scrambled eggs for the laborers who helped
her and my father on their farm near Verbicaro. Farm work started early, and by
mid-morning, everyone needed some sustenance. This quickly made dish and a little
wine would keep the crew going until lunch. In the spring, she might substitute wild
asparagus for the peppers; in winter, she would use her own dried sweet peppers
(page 293).
My mother still makes uova strapazzate often, especially for lunch or as a meat-
less second course. In my house, it’s usually a brunch dish. Strappare means to tear
or beat up, so uova strapazzate is an evocative name for eggs “beaten up” with fried
peppers. The juicy peppers infuse the eggs with their sweetness.
CORE THE PEPPERS, halve them, and remove the white ribs and seeds. Cut the
peppers into roughly 2-inch (5-centimeter) squares.
Heat the olive oil in a 12-inch (30-centimeter) nonstick skillet over high heat,
then add the peppers. Season with 1 tablespoon salt and stir to coat the peppers
with oil. Fry briskly, stirring frequently to prevent scorching, until the peppers are
soft, about 10 minutes. You can fry the peppers a few hours ahead. Reheat them
before you add the eggs.
Beat the eggs with 1% teaspoons salt. Add the eggs to the peppers and cook over
high heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the eggs are just done,
about 2 minutes. Serve immediately.
SERVES 6
Calabria boasts the longest coastline of any region in Italy, so one might
expect that Calabrians eat a lot of fresh seafood. In fact, the relationship between
Calabrians, the sea, and the food it provides is suprisingly complex, influenced by
the region's topography, history, and long isolation.
Tuna and swordfish—the most prized of the region's catch—have been fished
commercially off Calabria's Tyrrhenian coast since Phoenician times. According to
Aristotle, the Phoenicians knew how to preserve tuna in jars, a precursor of the
canned tuna industry important to the Calabrian economy today. Several centuries
later, the Arabs perfected the tonnara, the clever method of catching tuna with
elaborate net traps that persisted in Calabria until the mid-twentieth century (page
179). The Arabs were using the system in Sicilian waters as early as A.D. 1000.
Probably because of this generous sea, Calabria's early settlers clustered along
its coasts. The Greeks established major settlements on the Ionian waterfront—
most notably, Sibari, Locri, and Crotone, which were stars in the Magna Graecia
crown. But after the fall of the Roman empire, life near the water became more
perilous, subject to upheaval from a constant stream of invaders and pirates. Pizzo,
situated on a point on the Gulf of Saint Eufemia, on the west coast, was pillaged
many times.
In the ensuing centuries, Calabrians abandoned the coasts in large numbers,
moving onto the hillsides and into the mountains for safety. But as they established
their hilltop settlements and cut down forests to clear land for farming, they unwit-
tingly contributed to making the coastland even less hospitable. On the Ionian side,
land that had been healthy and farmable during Greek times became gradually more
INS3//
Left: (top) striped sea bream (mormora); (middle) John Dory (pesce San Pietro); (bottom) red
mullet (triglie). Right: pearly razorfish (pesce topo). These fish were brought in by fishermen
from the Tyrrhenian Sea and sold the same day at a fish auction in Vibo Valentia. Locals cook
these varieties of small fish whole, on the bone, fried or grilled with fresh tomatoes and herbs.
marshy and malarial, due in part to erosion from the mountainsides that disrupted
river flows and created swamps in the plains. Over the centuries, the Ionian coast
was slowly transformed into marshy wetlands, and malaria routinely cut short the
lives of its inhabitants. This deadly disease, which some Calabrians erroneously
associated with the sea, was not eradicated in the region until about 1950.
Even today, there is little commercial fishing along the Ionian coast. The wet-
lands have gradually been reclaimed for farming and viticulture, but no major
harbor supports a fishing fleet. Local fishermen working from small boats supply
the local markets, but the demand is not huge, as there are few major towns on
this coast. Instead, the region's commercial fishing centers around Reggio Calabria,
Scilla, and Bagnara for swordfish, and around the Tyrrhenian port of Pizzo for
bluefin tuna.
With the completion in 1894 of the railroad connecting Calabria to Rome, and
the construction of highways and better roads in Calabria in the decades that fol-
lowed, many people began to leave the hills and establish small towns along the
coasts. The rapid commercial development of the Tyrrhenian coastline from about
1970 on brought restaurants, condominiums, and tourist facilities that have helped
sustain the fishing industry.
Today, Calabrians who live along the coast, especially on the Tyrrhenian side,
enjoy a wealth of Mediterranean seafood. Fish markets offer the hefty fresh tuna
and swordfish in season, sliced to order, and locals line up early to get first dibs
on these just-caught fish before they are snapped up, usually by noon. Calabrians
also adore anchovies, sardines, and mackerel—the so-called pesci azzurri, or blue
fish, named for the color of their skin. Octopus, squid, cuttlefish, mussels, clams,
scallops, and shrimp beckon shoppers, as do fin fish such as mullet, grouper, hake,
bream, and sea bass. A great delicacy, served in the coastal restaurants, are the
neonate (page 42), or tiny newborn sardines and anchovies, typically coated with a
flour-and-egg batter and deep-fried.
Calabrians celebrate their fishermen and the local catch at a variety of annual
sagre, most of them held in midsummer when many tourists are around. There is
a sagra for tuna at Pizzo, for swordfish at Bagnara Calabra, for blue fish at Cird
Marina, and for fish of all kinds at Soverato. At a sagra, you can sample the featured
food prepared in many different ways by local cooks and participate in the general
merriment.
But travel inland from the coast, and not even very far, and fresh seafood
becomes much more limited. Were it not for the Catholic Church and its ban on
160 MY CALABRIA
Insalata di Polipo
MARINATED OCTOPUS SALAD WITH OLIVE OIL AND LEMON
IF THE OCTOPUS is fresh, ask the fishmonger to clean it for you by removing all
viscera from the head sac. If the octopus is frozen, it will have been cleaned before
freezing. Thaw it slowly in the refrigerator.
Bring 4 quarts (4 liters) water to a boil in an 8-quart (8-liter) pot over high heat.
Add 3 tablespoons salt. Working with one octopus at a time, pierce the head with a
meat fork and dip the whole creature, tentacles first, into the boiling water. Hold
it in the water for about 5 seconds, then lift it out. Repeat the dipping two times.
This procedure is said to tenderize the octopus, and it causes the tentacles to curl
attractively.
When both of the octopus have been dipped three times, return them both to
the boiling water. Partially cover the pot and adjust the heat to maintain a gentle
simmer. Cook until the octopus are tender when pierced with a knife, about one
hour. If you aren't sure, cut off asmall piece from a tentacle and taste it. It should
offer a little resistance to the tooth, but it shouldn't be chewy. When the octopus
are done, cover the pot, remove from the heat, and let them cool completely in the
water.
At this point, if you do not like the gelatinous dark skin or the tiny suction cups
on the tentacles, you can easily rub them off with your fingers. Italians tend to leave
these parts intact. Cut the tentacles on the diagonal into 1-inch (2%-centimeter)
pieces. Cut the head into %-inch-wide (12-millimeter-wide) slices.
Put the sliced octopus in a bowl and add the olive oil, lemon juice, parsley,
garlic, and 1% teaspoons salt. Stir well. Let marinate at room temperature for one
hour, then taste, adjust the seasoning, and serve. If you like, you can marinate
the octopus up to 2 days before serving. Keep it refrigerated, but remove from the
refrigerator about 30 minutes before serving to take the chill off.
SERVES 6
For me, a plate of crisp fried anchovies is as hard to resist as French fries. When the
fish are small, we eat them in one bite; the bones are soft and not even noticeable.
For bigger anchovies—say, longer than four inches (ten centimeters)—we some-
times remove the backbone before frying them, as for Marinated Fresh Anchovies
with Red Onion and Parsley (page 30). In restaurants, Calabrians often eat fried
anchovies as an antipasto. In homes, where antipasto is rarely served, the fried fish
are a second course, after pasta.
CLEAN THE ANCHOVIES as directed on page 31. Sprinkle them generously with
salt. Heat % inch (6 millimeters) of olive oil in a skillet over moderate heat. Make
a bed of flour on a plate.
When the oil reaches 375°F (190°C), hot enough to sizzle an anchovy on contact,
toss a few of the anchovies in the flour, coating them all over. Transfer them to a
platter, shaking off excess flour. Add them to the hot oil, taking care not to crowd
the pan. Fry until crisp and golden, about 2 minutes, then transfer to a paper towel—
lined plate. Continue flouring and frying the anchovies in batches. Sprinkle with
salt and serve hot.
SERVES 6
164 MY CALABRIA
Tortiera d'Alici
BAKED FRESH ANCHOVIES WITH BREADCRUMBS
A tortiera is like a savory cake—in this case, a layer cake of fresh anchovies and
breadcrumbs. Drizzled with olive oil and baked until the fish have melded with the
garlicky crumbs, the tortiera can be sliced into neat squares. My mother never puts
tomato in her tortiera, but I enjoyed it that way at Dattilo, a picturesque olive- and
grape-growing agriturismo (a farm that welcomes overnight guests) near the village
of Strongoli, north of Crotone, so I am including the tomatoes as an option. For
Dattilo's refined restaurant, the chef makes the tortiera in individual casseroles,
something you could try if you have small baking dishes.
I would serve the tortiera with a green salad or fresh vegetable, and precede it
with pasta with a seafood or vegetable sauce.
Kosher salt
6 large bay leaves, halved
1 cup (250 milliliters) peeled, seeded and chopped fresh tomato,
optional
CLEAN THE ANCHOVIES as directed on page 31. Remove the backbone from each
anchovy by grasping the end of the backbone closest to the head and lifting it out.
It usually pulls away cleanly from the flesh, although sometimes it clings. If it does
cling, gently work the backbone free with your fingers, damaging the flesh as little
as possible. Keep the tail intact. Lay the boneless anchovies open “butterfly” style.
SERVES 6
Variation
Sarde Ripiene (Stuffed Baked Sardines)
Clean and butterfly 2 pounds sardines as for the tortiera (page 31). Arrange half
of the boneless butterflied sardines skin side down in an oiled baking dish large
enough to hold them in one layer. Sprinkle with salt. Top with the breadcrumb
mixture, dividing it evenly and pressing it into an even layer. Top each sardine
with another sardine, skin side up. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Bake until
the fish are sizzling hot and the flesh is white and flakes easily when prodded with
a fork, 12 to 15 minutes. Let cool for 30 minutes before serving. Divide the sardines
among serving plates, drizzle each portion with a little extra virgin olive oil, and
accompany with lemon wedges.
166 MY CALABRIA
Pesce Spada alla Bagnarese
SWORDFISH IN A GARLICKY BROTH, BAGNARA STYLE
SEASON THE SWORDFISH on both sides with salt and pepper. Using the 1
tablespoon olive oil, coat a baking dish just large enough to hold the swordfish.
Put the swordfish in the baking dish and scatter the garlic around it. Sprinkle the
surface of the fish with capers and parsley. Spoon the lemon juice and 1 tablespoon
water over the fish. Cover the baking dish tightly with a lid or aluminum foil.
Choose a large roasting pan or other deep pan that can take stovetop heat and
accommodate the baking dish. Set the pan on a burner and put the baking dish in it.
In a separate pan or teakettle, bring several cups of water to a boil for pouring into
the roasting pan. Turn the heat to high under the roasting pan and add enough boil-
ing water to come halfway up the sides of the baking dish. After the water returns to
a boil, cook the fish for 8 minutes. Uncover and check for doneness; the fish should
be cooked through but still moist and surrounded with flavorful juices. Taste the
juices and add more salt if necessary.
Serve the swordfish in shallow bowls, spooning the garlicky broth over the fish.
Drizzle each portion with additional extra virgin olive oil.
SERVES 2
Fish auction in Vibo Valentia. The man on the left is holding up a dogfish (palombo); coiled up in
boxes are scabbard fish (spatola).
La Sagra: When Calabrians Celebrate Food
As befits people who have long depended on farming and fishing, Calabrians take
great pride in their local foodstuffs. Every food specialty of the region, it seems, has
its own festival, or sagra, in which people gather to show their appreciation for the
featured food by consumi ng it in every possible way.
Most sagre are held on weekends, when people have more time for revelry,
and many occur in summer when tourists can swell the crowd. But a dedicated
food lover could probably find a sagra somewhere in Calabria every weekend of the
year.
There is a sagra for ‘nduja (spicy pork spread); for pesce azzurro ("blue fish”
such as mackerel, anchovies, and sardines); for smoked ricotta; for the red onions
of Tropea; for chestnuts; eggplant; sausage; strawberries; bread; chick peas; wild
mushrooms; homemade pasta. And the list goes on.
A sagra can be as modest as a few oilcloth-covered folding tables set up in the
village square, with local men and women preparing the food for their fellow towns-
people. I stumbled on a tripe sagra in Torre Melissa, on the Ionian coast, one spring
that was no more elaborate than that. Local men dished up bowls of thick tripe stew
with chunks of bread; a local winery donated the red wine; and children cavorted to
taped folk music as their parents ate and socialized.
But sagre can also be major tourist events that enrich the coffers of a town
and its merchants. The preeminent Calabrian sagra, with the biggest reputation, is
surely the five-day festival del peperoncino, or hot-pepper festival, in Diamante the
first week in September. The gathering draws thousands of people from all over Italy
and beyond, who come to indulge in all manner of spicy food, sample every conceiv-
able hot pepper condiment, and enjoy the festival's music, films, and pepper-eating
competition.
As far as I can tell, no entity maintains a master calendar of sagre in Calabria.
But many towns have Web sites that list major sagre in the vicinity. If a sagra is
scheduled while you are visiting a town, you will know it from the proliferation of
banners and fliers.
PESCE / seafood el
Braciole di Pesce Spada alla Griglia
GRILLED SWORDFISH ROLLS WITH BREADCRUMB STUFFING
Sliced thin and pounded to flatten them further, swordfish steaks can be rolled
around a savory filling, just like pork braciole (page 197). The Calabrian filling is
simple: breadcrumbs, grated pecorino, parsley, and capers. (My Sicilian mother-in-
law adds pine nuts and currants.) You can grill the rolls over charcoal, as described
here; bake them in the oven, or cook them in a ridged grill pan. They are finished
with a light sauce of olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, and herbs known throughout
Southern Italy as salmoriglio. The braciole are as enjoyable at room temperature as
they are hot, which makes them a good choice for a buffet.
To make it easier to cut the swordfish into uniformly thin slices, partially freeze
the fish for an hour or so first.
SALMORIGLIO
FILLING
172 MY CALABRIA
1 garlic clove, minced
MAKE THE SALMORIGLIO first, as it needs to rest. Whisk all the ingredients
together in a bowl. Set aside for at least 30 minutes.
Put the swordfish on your work surface, skin side down. Cut it into twelve thin
slices, or steaks. (If the swordfish is large in diameter, you may find it easier to cut
six slices and then cut them in half after pounding them.) Cut the skin away from
each steak. One at a time, cover each steak with plastic wrap and pound lightly with
a meat mallet to make it even thinner. Season both sides of each steak with salt and
pepper and arrange on a tray.
MAKE THE FILLING: Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl. Mix with
your hands to blend.
Sprinkle about 1 tablespoon of the filling on each steak, spreading it evenly but stop-
ping short of the edge. Roll the swordfish around the filling like a jelly roll. Secure
with toothpicks.
Prepare a medium-hot charcoal fire.
Set aside % cup (180 milliliters) of the salmoriglio. Brush the swordfish rolls
with the remaining % cup (60 millimeters). Set the swordfish rolls on the grill
rack directly over the coals and grill, turning once, until done throughout, about 5
minutes total. Transfer to a platter, remove the toothpicks, and spoon some of the
reserved salmoriglio over each roll.
SERVES 6
Variation
Substitute the stuffed but uncooked swordfish rolls for the swordfish steaks in
Swordfish “Glutton's Style” with Tomato, Capers, and Olives (page 175).
174 MY CALABRIA
Pesce Spada alla Ghiotta
SWORDFISH 'GLUTTON’S STYLE” WITH TOMATO, CAPERS, AND OLIVES
1 large yellow onion, ends removed, halved, and thinly sliced from
stem to root end
SERVES 6
176 MY CALABRIA
Tonno alla Menta
FRESH TUNA PIZZO STYLE WITH WINE VINEGAR, GARLIC, AND MINT
Until modern times brought good roads and refrigerated trucks to Calabria, most
of the tuna and swordfish caught along the region's Tyrrhenian coast never made
it into the interior. These hefty fish were simply too large to transport far, so they
were consumed in the towns around Pizzo, the main tuna fishing village.
On one of my visits to Pizzo, a gelataio (ice cream producer) there related a
curious bit of local history. He told me that, in the days before refrigeration, Pizzo
had a trading relationship with Serra San Bruno, a mountain town southeast of
Pizzo. Strong men from the Pizzo area would carry the fresh 200-pound bluefin
tunas caught locally all the way to Serra San Bruno on their shoulders, a distance
of roughly twenty miles. There, they would trade the fish for ice, which they would
bring back down to Pizzo for use in fruit ices and ice cream.
This method of preparing fresh tuna is common to the area around Pizzo. The
fish is sliced into thin steaks, lightly floured, and quickly seared in olive oil. Then a
dressing of olive oil, wine vinegar, garlic, and mint is whisked up in the still-warm
skillet and poured over the steaks. The tuna rests at room temperature for an hour
or so, absorbing the moisture of the dressing and its mint and garlic fragrance.
Served at room temperature, the fish is juicy and vibrant in flavor, with a refreshing
vinegar tang. I serve it as a second course in summer, after a seafood or vegetable
pasta, such as Large Pasta Tubes with Swordfish and Cherry Tomatoes (page 73).
I have always known that Calabrians never waste any part of a creature they
have killed for the table. But I got a fresh reminder of this resourcefulness when
I stopped for lunch at the restaurant Medusa in Pizzo and the proprietor proudly
announced that he had some fresh lattume. I had only heard of this delicacy—the
sperm sac of male tuna—but never tried it. The chef prepared it alla menta, by the
same method I've described below for tuna steaks. Its firm texture reminded me of
swordfish; its flavor was clearly of the sea but mild. If you are traveling in Calabria
in summer, lattume alla menta is a treat not to be missed.
SLICE THE TUNA into %-inch-thick (9-millimeter-thick) slices. Season the fish
steaks on both sides with salt and several grinds of black pepper.
Make a bed of flour on a plate and lightly coat the tuna on both sides, shaking
off the excess.
Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a 12-inch (30-centimeter) skillet over
medium-high heat. When the oil shimmers, add as many tuna slices as you can fit
comfortably in one layer. Fry for 30 seconds, then turn the slices with an offset spat-
ula and fry on the second side for 30 seconds. Transfer the tuna to a platter large
enough to accommodate all the slices in a single layer. Add enough additional oil to
the skillet to bring the volume of oil back to 2 tablespoons, then fry the remaining
tuna for 30 seconds per side, transferring it to the platter when done.
Remove the skillet from the heat and add 6 tablespoons olive oil. Immediately
add the sliced garlic and let it sizzle in the retained heat of the skillet. When it stops
sizzling, add the vinegar, 1 teaspoon salt, and the mint leaves, tearing them into
small pieces. Whisk to blend, then pour this warm vinaigrette over the fried tuna.
Let marinate at least until the tuna cools to room temperature, about 30 minutes.
It will be even tastier if allowed to marinate for a couple of hours at room tempera-
ture, basted occasionally with the marinade. Alternatively, you can refrigerate the
tuna for up to 2 days, but bring it to room temperature before serving. Just before
serving, tear 4 to 6 more mint leaves over the tuna steaks.
SERVES 4 TO 6
178 MY CALABRIA
La Tonnara: Man Versus Tuna
In an annual migration as dependable as sunrise, bluefin tuna (Thunnus thynnus)
head for the Gulf of Saint Eufemia on Calabria's west coast every summer. They
descend from Sardinia beginning as early as April to deposit their eggs in the warm
water ofthe gulf, near Pizzo, then turn west toward Sicily. Consequently, Calabrians
have long joked that they get the best tuna and Sicilians get the rest.
The bluefin tuna, known as tonno rosso (red tuna) in Italian, is prized among
connoisseurs. Its flesh is firm, meaty, and beet red. The fatty belly meat, or ventresca,
is particularly sought after and priced accordingly.
Today, Calabrians fish for tuna with sonar and other sophisticated modern
equipment, but until the 1960s, they trapped these large fish with an elaborate and
ancient system of nets known as la tonnara. According to most historical accounts,
the Arabs introduced la tonnara to Sicily around A.D. 1000. The method spread to
Calabria, and for many centuries, the annual tonnara provided jobs for fishermen
around Pizzo and excitement for the locals.
La tonnara consisted of a complex series of net traps that ensnared the tuna
and funneled them gradually into a final chamber known as la camera della morte
(the death chamber). On a calm, windless day in April, the fishermen would drop
the nets and begin their wait. The tonnara stretched for miles, with several boats
monitoring and maintaining it, each boat having a defined task.
The final boat, or captain's boat, was responsible for lifting the death chamber.
When it was full, the captain would raise a flag to notify the other boats. Alerted by
the flag, locals would gather along the seashore to watch the struggle between man
and fish. Before killing their prey with harpoons, the fishermen sang a mournful
ritual chant—“U Leva Leva"—asking the tuna's forgiveness for what was about to
happen.
The fishermen on the kill boat faced considerable danger, as these enormous
tuna, weighing as much as 500 pounds (225 kilos), often put up a fierce fight. Men
would occasionally lose a hand or a limb due to the flailing fish and sharp gaffs. Rita
Callipo, whose family owns a large cannery near Pizzo, remembers being frightened
by the tonnara as a child. The sea would turn black with tuna, recalls Callipo, then
red with blood.
The church bells would ring to announce a successful catch, and the largest fish
would be taken to the priest. In a good year, this scene would be repeated many
180 MY CALABRIA
Branzino Sotto Sale
WHOLE SALT-BAKED SEA BASS
Roasting a whole fish buried in salt is a cooking method common all over Southern
Italy. Surprisingly, the cooked fish isn't excessively salty but it is exceptionally
moist, much more so than baked or grilled fish. The thick salt coat seals the fish
during cooking so none of its juices can escape. Mixed with egg whites and water,
the salt forms a hard crust in the oven, like pottery, which you will need a mallet
or hammer to crack. Because you can't see the fish to judge its doneness, you must
carefully measure its thickness before you pack it in salt to determine how long to
bake it. I find that 15 minutes per inch (2% centimeters), measured at the thickest
part—about 40 minutes for a fish that is 2% inches (6 centimeters) thick—is a reli-
able guide. If you are unsure about your oven, you might want to make this dish
once for family to test the timing before you make it for guests.
Any whole fish can be baked this way. If you can't find sea bass or striped bass,
you can use red snapper or salmon. You can serve the fish simply with lemon wedges
and a drizzle of good olive oil, but I usually make salmoriglio, a whisked dressing of
olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, and fresh herbs, to spoon over the fish before serving
or to pass at the table. Accompany the fish with boiled potatoes or a seasonal green
vegetable such as wilted chard or roasted asparagus.
For this recipe, please use only Diamond Crystal kosher salt. Morton kosher
salt, another popular supermarket brand, is made by a different process, so the
crystals have a different shape and are less absorbent.
SERVES 4
1 pound (450 grams) salt cod (page 186), cut into 6 equal pieces
184 MY CALABRIA
remove the thin pieces as they are ready, pat dry, and refrigerate in a covered con-
tainer while you continue soaking the thicker pieces. When all the cod is sufficiently
soaked, drain it. If you don't want to proceed with the recipe immediately, you can
refrigerate the soaked and drained cod for 2 to 3 days.
Peel the potatoes and cut into 1%-inch (4-centimeter) pieces. The exact size doesn't
matter as long as they are of comparable size so they cook evenly. Place in an 8-quart
(8-liter) pot with 5 cups (1% liters) water, the oil, and the salt. Add more water if
necessary to cover the potatoes completely. Bring to a boil over high heat, then
adjust the heat to maintain a low rolling boil.
Boil the potatoes for 5 minutes, then add the garlic and hot pepper, if using.
Boil for 5 minutes longer, then test the potatoes for doneness; they should be easily
pierced with a fork. If not, continue cooking until they are tender. Add the salt cod
and adjust the heat so the mixture simmers gently. Cook for 5 minutes, then add
the sweet peppers and tomatoes. Stir gently to distribute them, then continue sim-
mering until the peppers are tender and the broth is flavorful and reduced to about
one-third of the original water volume, about 10 minutes. Do not stir during this
time to avoid breaking up the cod or potatoes.
Taste for salt and adjust if needed. Divide the cod, potatoes, peppers, and broth
among individual soup bowls.
SERVES 6
186 MY CALABRIA
Insalata di Baccala con Patate
SALT COD AND POTATO SALAD WITH RED ONION AND CAPERS
This winter salad is on many Calabrian Christmas Eve tables. Some cooks add dried
oregano or roasted red peppers, and it's common to dress it with a great deal of extra
virgin olive oil, more than I have specified here. In my family, this dish would be
served after a seafood main course or seafood pasta.
SOAK AND DRAIN the salt cod as directed on page 184. In a 4-quart (4-liter)
pot, bring cod and 1% quarts (1% liters) water to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer
until the fish flakes when prodded with a fork, about 10 minutes. Drain and let cool.
Put the potatoes and 1% quarts (1% liters) water in a 4-quart (4-liter) pot. Bring
to a simmer and cook until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a fork, about
20 minutes, depending on size. Drain and peel. Cool the peeled potatoes completely,
then slice % inch (9 millimeters) thick.
Soak the onion in cold water for 5 minutes to remove any sharpness. Drain.
Flake the cod and put in a serving bowl. Add the potatoes, onions, capers, and
parsley. In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, and salt.
Pour over the salad, toss gently, taste for seasoning, and serve.
SERVES 6
188 MY CALABRIA
Il Cenone (Christmas Eve Feast)
Grispelle
Warm Christmas Doughnuts
Tartine al Burro di Bottarga
Crostini with Bottarga Butter
Pipi 'Mpajanati
Calabrian Sweet Pepper Fritters
Spaghetti col Sugo di Baccala
Spaghetti with Salt Cod and Tomato
Branzino Sotto Sale
Whole Salt-Baked Sea Bass
Pesce Spada alla Ghiotta
Swordfish “Glutton's Style” with Tomato, Capers, and Olives
Insalata di Mare
Mixed Seafood Salad
Insalata di Baccala con Patate
Salt Cod and Potato Salad with Red Onion and Capers
Insalata di Cavolfiore
Cauliflower Salad
Chinule
Sweet Christmas Ravioli with Chestnut Filling
Cannariculi
Fried Ridged Pastry with Honey Glaze
Panettone
Frutta e Dolci
Clementines, panicelli (page 330), crocette (page 336),
hazelnuts and walnuts, roasted chestnuts, and torrone
Pork is the undisputed king among meats in Calabria. His Majesty the
Pig, as this invaluable animal is affectionately known, has saved many Calabrians,
for many generations, from hunger and want. In my grandparents’ day, if your
family had a pig, you were considered well off because you had the wherewithal to
eat for a year.
From one 350-pound pig, a family could make prosciutto and pancetta; many
pounds of fresh sausages, capocolli, soppressate, and other cured salumi; and dozens
of braciole (stuffed pork rolls) that could be safely stored for months under rendered
pork fat. The pig also provided a year’s worth of cooking fat, supplemented by olive
oil; and plenty of fresh meat to enjoy in the first few weeks following the January
slaughter.
My parents and rural families like ours would purchase a young pig, one to
two months old, in September and raise it for fifteen to sixteen months. For the
first year or so, our pig subsisted largely on grasses, wild chicories, cabbage leaves,
fallen fruit, and whatever else my mother could scavenge from our property. Any
kitchen scraps such as potato peels, the scrapings off our plates, and unusable
leftovers went to his majesty, of course. Even pasta water, which had some nour-
ishing starch, would be saved for the pig. In a frugal Calabrian home, you do not
waste a calorie.
By the following August, the fattening regimen moved into high gear and my
mother began treating the pig like the royalty he was. Every evening, after our
dinner, my mother would cook for the pig, preparing a nutritious gruel using pasta
water or potato water, and adding ripe or dried figs, potatoes, winter squash, corn-
meal, acorns, and wheat bran. From an early age, I was taught how to make the pig's
meal. By January, when the weather had turned cold enough to provide natural
refrigeration, the pig would have reached an acceptable slaughter weight and would
meet its end.
is)al
Farm families like ours always had meat for the table because we raised our
own animals. Even so, meat played a relatively minor role in our everyday meals,
secondary to pasta, beans, bread, cheese, and vegetables. People in the towns ate
even less meat than we did, as they had to buy it. For them, meat might only appear
on Sundays and holidays and even then in modest portions. Today, fortunately,
Calabrians’ fortunes have improved, and they no longer consider meat a luxury
reserved for special occasions.
Like other rural people, we were never without a brood of chickens, usually a
dozen or so. Ours roamed freely during the day, fattening up on grubs and gleaning
fallen grains after the wheat harvest. In winter, my mother cooked hot cornmeal
porridge for them to keep them warm and well fed. Because we had mountain
property, my father also raised goats, which are nimble enough to thrive on steep
hillsides. Those who had farms in the foothills or the flatlands, such as the area
around Crotone, would keep sheep, which were better adapted to that landscape.
Consequently, goat and lamb were and still are widely eaten in Calabria. And
throughout the region, people reserve a special place on the table for milk-fed goat
(capretto) and milk-fed lamb (agnellino), young animals slaughtered before they
are weaned, at just a few weeks old. Their meat is pale, mild, and unbelievably suc-
culent, and few Calabrians are without one or the other on their Easter table. The
cooking method is always exceedingly simple, so as not to obscure the fine flavor
of the meat. Some cooks spit-roast their baby goat or lamb over a wood fire. Others
cut the carcass into serving-size pieces and roast the meat in the oven with olive
oil, rosemary, white wine, and garlic (page 224). Roast potatoes basted with the pan
juices are the unvarying accompaniment.
Americans tend to be squeamish about eating such young creatures, but when
you are raised with farm animals, as I was, you are more pragmatic. The females
earn their keep by giving milk. The males are eaten within the family or sold to
neighbors for meat. Whether slaughtered young, at their most tender and sweet, or
later, when they will be tougher and stronger in taste, the creatures’ fate is not in
doubt.
When they have lamb or goat from a more mature animal, Calabrian cooks will
typically braise it until it becomes fork-tender. They may simmer it on the bone in
tomato sauce, or as braciole, stuffed boneless cutlets. Alternatively, they might grind
the meat and mix it with breadcrumbs and pecorino to make meatballs, similarly
braised in tomato sauce. In all three cases, the preparation yields two courses: a
192 MY CALABRIA
garlicky, meat-flavored sauce to toss with pasta for a first course, and a second
course of the meat itself, cloaked with a little of the remaining sauce.
Calabrians have few traditional recipes for beef. Apart from the high plateau
of La Sila, where dairy cattle thrive on the cool mountain air and lush pasture,
Calabria's rocky landscape and hot climate are not conducive to cattle. As a result,
beef has always been expensive in Calabrian markets and people have never devel-
oped much of a taste for it. My parents had never eaten a thick, American-style
steak until they came to the United States in their early forties. Even today, what
Calabrian restaurants call bistecca (beefsteak) is likely to be tough, pitifully thin, and
not very tasty. Some home cooks do make braciole with beef on occasion, or grilled
beef cutlets, but pork is the meat of choice.
Calabrian chicken recipes are simple and few. I suspect this is because the
many Calabrians who kept chickens in times past, such as my parents, did so pri-
marily for the eggs. After a couple of years, when the hens had reached the end of
their useful life as layers, they were too tough for anything but braising. Pollo col
sugo, chicken braised in tomato sauce, sometimes with fresh or dried sweet peppers
or mushrooms, remains an everyday family meal, with the flavorful sauce served
first on pasta, and the chicken following as a second course. Pollo fritto, or fried
chicken Calabrian style, is simply cut into pieces, seasoned with dried oregano,
and fried in a heavy pan filmed with olive oil. But it is far more succulent than
that brief description suggests. Cooked slowly and turned frequently, the bird pan-
roasts to a deep golden brown, so it more closely resembles a juicy roast chicken
than batter-coated American-style fried chicken. Thick potato wedges shallow-fried
in olive oil are the traditional accompaniment. Another common preparation is
pollo alla Calabrese (page 218), chicken baked with potatoes, tomatoes, oregano, and
hot red pepper.
Calabrians seem a little more inspired by rabbit, which many people in small
towns and rural areas still raise themselves. My cousins in Santa Maria del Cedro,
near Scalea, keep rabbits in a backyard hutch because they just don't believe factory-
raised rabbits have a comparable flavor. My parents raise eight or nine rabbits at
a time in their Oakland backyard, pampering them like others do their pets. I save
pea shells, carrot peels, and the outer leaves of cauliflower for them, and my mother
routinely asks vendors at the farmers’ market for their wilted lettuce or carrot tops.
When she spots a vacant lot overrun with sow thistle or wild fennel, she will pick
some for her precious rabbits. And when it's hot, she and my father rig up fans to
194 MY CALABRIA
(Stuffed Pork Rolls in Tomato Sauce Verbicaro Style, page 197), which do not have
the breadcrumb filling typical in other parts of Southern Italy; and the tender pol-
pette alla Verbicarese (Pork Meatballs in Tomato Sauce, page 209), which are made
with pork only. I have included some recipes that I have seen nowhere else, such as
the luscious braciole di cotenne (Pork Skin Rolls Braised in Tomato Sauce, page 204)
and Catanzaro’s sumptuous Tiella d'Agnello (Baked Lamb Shoulder with Artichokes,
Peas, and Breadcrumbs, page 227). Also here are recipes for the roast baby goat
with which Calabrians celebrate Easter (capretto arrostito con patate, page 224), and
some family favorites, such as pollo alla Calabrese (Baked Chicken with Potatoes,
Tomatoes, and Hot Pepper, page 218) and salsiccia alla Calabrese (Fresh Homemade
Fennel Sausage Calabrian Style, page 211).
This recipe from my hometown of Verbicaro is an example ofla cucina povera (peas-
ant cooking), a dish that makes ingenious use of meager resources. The filling for
the cutlets (vrasciole in the local dialect; braciole in Italian) consists of nothing more
than minced pork fat, parsley, and garlic. Today, Southern Italians stuff braciole
with breadcrumbs, cheese, pine nuts, eieeants shard cooled egg, and the like, but
no version is more delicious than this simple one. The rolls are browned, then sim-
mered with tomatoes to produce a meaty sauce enriched with the melting pork fat
and the aromas of parsley and garlic. A dish for Sundays and holidays, it is two
courses in one: Calabrians typically toss some of the sauce with homemade fusilli
(page 85) for a first course, then have the braciole as a second course.
I can still hear the sound of my grandmother's knife as she minced the pork fat
by hand. She would be at it for half an hour because, with six children, she cooked
nothing in small quantities. You can put the pork fat through a meat grinder, or
mince it by hand, using the flat side of your chef's knife to mash it to a paste.
Kosher salt
Kitchen twine
FOR THE STUFFING: Combine the pork fat with the parsley and garlic. Season
with % teaspoon salt and pepper to taste. Mix until smooth and creamy.
Top each piece of pork with 2 teaspoons of the stuffing. Spread the stuffing evenly
but stop short of the edges. Working from the shorter side, roll the slices tightly like
a jelly roll. Using a 12-inch (30-centimeter) length of kitchen twine, tie each roll by
looping the twine around the roll, working from one end of the roll to the other,
and then back again. Tie the ends of the twine together.
Choose a 6-quart (6-liter) heavy pot or Dutch oven large enough to hold all the
braciole snugly in one layer. Set the pot over moderately high heat and add enough
olive oil to coat the bottom. When the oil is hot, add the braciole and brown the rolls
on all sides, about 5 minutes total. A nice crust should develop on the bottom of the
pan. Add the 2 whole garlic cloves and sauté briefly to release their fragrance, then
add the tomatoes and basil. With a wooden spoon, scrape up all the crusty browned
bits on the bottom ofthe pan. Season with salt and simmer gently, uncovered, until
the sauce thickens and the meat is fork tender, 1 to 1% hours.
Remove the braciole from the sauce and cut away the string. Return them to
the sauce and keep warm over low heat. Reserving some sauce to coat the braciole,
use the remaining sauce to coat 1 pound (450 grams) of pasta for a first course (see
recipe introduction), then serve the braciole as a second course.
198 MY CALABRIA
Calabria's Prized Salumi
Amaru chi lu puorcu nun s'ammazza, a li travi sui nun mpica sazizza.
He who doesn't kill a pig will have no sausage hanging from the rafters.
Cured meats, known by the generic name salumi, comprise a significant part of the
Calabrian diet. For rural families in times past, the salumi in the cellar were insurance
against hardship, as reassuring as money in the bank. One elderly salumi producer
near Reggio di Calabria told me that people used to bequeath a cured sausage to each
of their pallbearers, a sign of how greatly people prized their homemade sausage.
Because of USDA regulations, Calabrian meat products are not exported to the
United States. Consequently, when you visit Calabria, you should go out of your
way to try them. The following salumi are the ones you are most likely to encounter
in homes, restaurants, and food shops:
CAPOCOLLO: Made with whole (not ground) pieces of meat from the neck and
loin, capocollo is braced with strips of bamboo on either side to keep it hanging
straight while it cures. It is air dried, then sliced thin and enjoyed as a cold cut or
chopped for stuffings. The coppa available in Italian delis in the United States is
made in a similar fashion.
GUANCIALE: To make guanciale, pork jowls are buried in salt for about a week,
then air dried for about two months. The flavor is similar to pancetta, but guanciale
has proportionately more fat. It may be sliced thin for sandwiches or antipasto, like
prosciutto, or chopped and fried to add meaty flavor to sauces, soups, or cooked
greens. A few American artisan salumi producers are now making guanciale.
LARDO: The pig's thick, firm back fat is salted, then air dried to make lardo.
Calabrians slice lardo thinly and enjoy it on warm toast as an antipasto. It has a
pearly appearance, like the fat on prosciutto.
'NDUJA: This fiery, smoked pork spread is unique to Calabria. 'Nduja (in-DOO-jah
or in-DOO-yah) is prepared with fatty parts of the pig selected to ensure a finished
fat content of 40 to 50 percent. The meat and fat are ground, seasoned with salt,
mild red pepper, and a generous quantity of hot red pepper, and worked until the
mixture is creamy, spreadable, and uniformly red. It is then stuffed into a natural
hog casing, smoked for seven to ten days, and then air dried.
continued on page 203
CARNE / meat TS
Salumi hanging at a market in Pizzo
—
TT mee ial
r
a : Ee
:
ea— eee
——: —
ern
one aan
er ee el we
an
Calabrian salumi: 1. dried, cured Calabrian sausage, 2. pancetta, flat style, 3. guanciale, 4. lardo,
5. sopressata, 6. capocollo, 7. ‘nduja. (For complete glossary of salumi, see pages 199 and 203.)
‘Nduja di Spilinga inside the casing (background) and spread on bread (foreground)
continued from page 199
The town of Spilinga in the Vibo Valentia region is famous for ‘nduja, and most
commercial production takes place in that area. Calabrians spread ‘nduja on bread
or toast for an antipasto or as a sandwich condiment, or add a spoonful to tomato
sauce or pasta-and-bean soup for a meaty and fiery taste. It also appears as a filling
for pitta and a topping for pizza.
SALSICCIA CALABRESE: Made in spicy (piccante) and mild (dolce) styles, these
dry, cured sausages are prepared primarily with ground pork shoulder and flavored
with salt, wild fennel seed, and mild or hot red pepper or both. The casing used is
from the narrowest section of the pork intestine, so the cured sausages are about
one inch in diameter.
SOPPRESSATA: Traditionally made with pork loin and fat chopped more coarsely
than the meat for salsiccia, soppressata can be mild or spicy. The casing used is
bigger in diameter than the one used for salsiccia, and the traditional recipe calls
for pressing the sausage under weights to flatten it (hence the name). Soppressata
needs about one month to cure. It is sliced thin for antipasto or chopped for use
in stuffings.
SPALLA: The pig's shoulder is cured in the same way as the hind leg, or prosciutto.
Cured spalla is leaner than prosciutto, without its marbling and rich flavor.
With the floppy skin from a pig's back, all traces of fat removed, Calabrians stuff
and roll braciole identical to the ones they make with pork shoulder (page 197).
Cotenne, the pork skin, is never discarded; it's a prized ingredient, not only in
this dish but in beans as well. One well-known Bay Area chef tells me that he slips
cotenne into many recipes unannounced. He thinks that customers would shy away
from a dish if they knew it contained pork skin, yet they always ask what made the
food so delicious.
We buy cotenne in Oakland's Chinatown, and you would be amused to see my
Italian father try to communicate with the Chinese butcher about the cuts that he
wants from the pig. They both point to their own body parts, nodding or shaking
their heads in what looks like a comic dance.
If the pork skin you purchase still has fat attached, you will need to trim it or
ask the butcher to do it. You should be left with a thin sheet of skin only. Reserve
the fat for the filling, a paste of finely minced fat, garlic, and parsley. As the rolls
simmer with crushed tomatoes, a luscious sauce emerges, enriched and seasoned
with the braciole and their filling. If you want to have enough sauce for both the
braciole and a pasta course, double the quantity of tomatoes, basil, and hot red
pepper.
Kosher salt
204 MY CALABRIA
1 quart (1 liter) Home-Canned Peeled Tomatoes (page 296) or one
28-ounce (800-gram) can Italian San Marzano tomatoes,
broken up by hand
4 to 5 fresh basil leaves, torn in half
1 small dried hot red pepper, broken in half, or ground hot red
pepper
WITH A KNIFE, cut the pork skin into twelve 4-inch (10-centimeter) squares.
Season the inside of each piece with salt.
FOR THE STUFFING: Combine the pork fat with the parsley and garlic. Season
with % teaspoon salt and pepper to taste. Mix until smooth and creamy.
Top each piece of pork skin with 2 teaspoons of the stuffing. Spread the stuffing
evenly but stop short of the edges. Roll the pork skin tightly like a jelly roll and tie
with kitchen twine.
Put the braciole in a saucepan. Add water to cover by 2 inches (5 centimeters)
and a generous pinch of salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, then adjust the heat to
maintain a brisk simmer. Cook uncovered until the braciole are tender, 45 minutes
to 1 hour, and the water has almost completely evaporated. Test one for tender-
ness by cutting a thin slice off the end. If it’s still a little chewy, add additional hot
water and continue simmering until the braciole are tender and the water has all
but evaporated.
Add the tomatoes, the basil, and hot pepper to taste. Simmer briskly until the
sauce is thick and flavorful, 15 to 20 minutes. With tongs, lift the braciole onto a
cutting board and remove the strings. Transfer the braciole to a serving platter and
top with the sauce.
SERVES 6
When I was growing up in Calabria, my family raised and butchered one pig a year,
as did most of our neighbors. The three to four days devoted to this ritual—to
butchering, salting, and sausage making—were a much anticipated time of the year,
involving friends and neighbors in both the work and the festivities, and conclud-
ing with a sense of accomplishment. Although each family had its own particular
customs, my family's procedures were typical.
After months of fattening the family pig with table scraps and grain, butchering
day would arrive. The date for the hog’s demise depended largely on the weather and
on the availability of friends and neighbors, as my parents needed at least three to
four helpers. The sacrifice was typically planned for sometime in January because
it was imperative to have cured sausages ready by Carnevale, usually in February.
My father would wait until he anticipated several days of clear, cold weather. Like
others, we relied on “nature's refrigeration” to prevent spoilage.
Beginning before dawn, my father and his helpers would tie the pig's legs
together and tie his mouth shut so he couldn't bite. My mother would position a
bucket in the appropriate spot, and after my father's quick, practiced incision just
below the neck, the blood would flow into the bucket. My mother would add some
halved oranges to perfume the blood, and then she or I would stir the blood with
a wooden spoon or a thick piece of reed to prevent coagulation and to collect the
impurities, which would cling to the stirrer. The scented blood would later be mixed
with sugar, chocolate, breadcrumbs, raisins, cloves, and cinnamon and stuffed into
the largest part of the intestine to make sanguinaccio, a sweet blood sausage.
The next task was to remove the pig's hair, which took about an hour. Scalding
the pig with boiling water made it easier to shave off the hairs with sharp knives.
The thick, stiff bristles down the center of the back were pulled out by hand and
sold to the local shoe repairman. He would use them as a leader for his thread when
stitching leather. The pig's side hairs were discarded, but in earlier times, they were
gathered and sold for paint brushes and clothes brushes.
Next, the pig's hind legs were spread and strapped to a rod suspended from a
beam or tree branch. From this upside-down creature, my father would cut out the
206 MY CALABRIA
belly in one piece—the part that would later be salt cured for pancetta—and expose
the internal organs, which were quickly removed and cleaned. The women would
wash the intestines in the river's current with great care; these well-rinsed mem-
branes, of varying diameter, would become sausage casings. Meanwhile, the men
would carefully cleave the pig further, from rump to neck, although not completely
in half.
The butterflied carcass, still hanging, needed to dry overnight, so it was an
opportune time to clean up and prepare lunch, a thank-you for all the helpers. The
menu was never in question. The customary lunch on the day a hog is butchered
is soffritto, a savory stew of coarsely chopped heart, lungs, liver, and kidneys—the
most perishable parts of the pig—simmered over a wood fire with garlic, olive oil,
oregano, and hot red pepper. For a Calabrian with rural roots, there is no finer dish.
Fried potatoes always accompany it. Before the soffritto, my mother would serve
handmade pasta with a pork-rib and tomato sauce (page 88).
The next morning, the men would cut the carcass in half and begin breaking
down the halves into the appropriate pieces. There was nothing ad hoc about this
process; every square inch of the pig had a predetermined use.
The two hind legs would be removed and salted for prosciutto. One of the shoul-
ders would also be salted and cured in the same way as prosciutto, although it
was smaller and would be ready sooner. The other shoulder would be ground for
sausage.
Meat from the neck and part of the back was set aside for capocollo. The loin
was reserved for soppressata. The prime back fat would be salt cured like pancetta,
to make lardo. The jowls would be removed whole and packed in salt to make guan-
ciale. The ears, snout, feet, tongue, and remaining head meat would become gelatina,
similar to head cheese. My mother made the gelatina, simmering these gelatinous
cuts until soft in salted water with bay leaf and garlic. Then she would add a gener-
ous amount of wine vinegar, and the meat and tangy broth would be divided among
several containers. When cool, the broth would solidify into jelly.
Also on the first day, the men would remove the hog's bladder and wash it care-
fully. Then they would blow into it to inflate it like a balloon and hang it up to dry.
Once it dried, they would put a funnel in it and fill it with melted pork fat. This
natural vessel would be hung from the rafters until the fat was needed for some use
in cooking. My mother says that the fat stored this way really did taste better than
pork fat stored in the conventional way, in earthenware crocks.
Along with the shoulder, any usable trimmings of meat and fat would be col-
lected for sausage. This meat would be ground and put in a big wooden trough, then
208 MY CALABRIA
Polpette alla Verbicarese
MY MOTHER'S PORK MEATBALLS IN TOMATO SAUCE
The meatballs I grew up with are made entirely with pork, which is still the custom
among many Calabrians. In my grandparents’ day, rural people made meatballs
only when they had fresh pork, for a few days following the butchering of a pig. My
mother has remained true to this traditional all-pork recipe, adding neither onion
nor garlic but a little pecorino cheese and parsley for flavor. The meatballs have a
particularly sweet taste because we grind our pork fresh, using pork butt (shoulder)
trimmed of most of the fat. If you choose to grind your own meat, use the fine plate
on the grinder. Often I double this recipe and put half the fried meatballs in the
freezer unsauced. Then, when I am pressed for time, I can reheat them in tomato
sauce for a quick dinner.
I'm not sure where the idea of tossing meatballs with pasta came from. It is not
Italian. We toss spaghetti, penne, or homemade fusilli (page 85) with some of the
flavorful sauce from the meatballs and serve that as a first course. The meatballs
themselves follow as a second course.
MEATBALLS
FOR THE MEATBALLS: Ina large bowl, combine the ground pork, egg, bread-
crumbs, parsley, cheese, salt, and pepper. Mix thoroughly with your hands. Add ¥%
CARNE / meat ZO
cup (80 milliliters) water and mix well. Fry 1 tablespoon of the mixture in a nonstick
skillet and taste for seasoning.
With moistened hands, shape the mixture into 1’4-inch (4-centimeter)
meatballs.
Put % inch (12 millimeters) of olive oil in a large skillet and turn the heat to
medium-high. When the oil is hot, carefully add the meatballs in a single layer, in
batches if necessary. Brown the meatballs well all over, turning them carefully with
a spoon so as not to break them. Transfer them to a tray as they are done.
Put the tomato sauce in a large skillet that can hold all the meatballs. Add the meat-
balls and simmer briskly uncovered, turning them occasionally in the sauce, until
the meatballs are fully cooked and the sauce is flavorful, about 10 minutes. Taste
the sauce for salt.
Reserving some sauce to coat the meatballs, use the remaining sauce to coat 1
pound (450 grams) of pasta for a first course, then serve the meatballs as a second
COUTSE-
210 MY CALABRIA
Salsiccia Calabrese
FRESH HOMEMADE FENNEL SAUSAGE CALABRIAN STYLE
Calabria's traditional fresh pork sausage is liberally seasoned with ground sweet
pepper and hot red pepper and laced with wild fennel seeds. My parents and I still
gather wild fennel seed in California—the plant is ubiquitous—but store-bought
fennel seed works in the recipe as well. In Calabria, my parents made mountains
of sausage whenever my father killed a hog. I remember my mother filling sausage
casings by hand for hours, pushing the stuffing through a funnel with her thumb.
(Today, thank goodness, we have sausage stuffers.) What we didn't eat fresh in the
first few days, my father would preserve by one of two methods. Some he would
air dry. The remainder would be partially air dried, then cooked in lard and stored
under the cooled lard for long keeping.
You need at least 25 percent fat to make a juicy, flavorful sausage. With less
fat, your sausage will be dry. Most pork today is too lean and well trimmed to make
a successful sausage without additional fat. I use boneless pork butt (shoulder)
purchased from a Chinese market and ask the butcher to leave on the surface fat.
Sometimes I buy additional fatty trimmings just as insurance. After you grind the
pork butt, use your eye to estimate whether the ground meat contains about 25
percent fat. If it doesn't, grind the fatty trimmings, too. Alternatively, use a sharp
knife to trim the pork butt, separating the fat from the lean. Then weigh them to
make sure you have at least 25 percent fat. If you don't have a meat grinder, ask the
butcher to grind the meat for you.
Salt-packed hog casings are available by mail order and from some meat markets
in ethnic neighborhoods. They come in several different diameters. You may have to
buy a lot, but they keep indefinitely in the refrigerator if covered with salt.
The amount of ground hot red pepper in this recipe makes a spicy sausage that
is true to Calabrian taste. You can use more or less hot pepper, as you like. But the
signature flavor of Calabrian sausage is the sweet ground pepper (pepe rosso). My
grandmother would say you haven't used enough of the pepe rosso if your hands
arent red after mixing.
Note that you don't have to make links with this sausage mixture. If you prefer,
you can shape it by hand into patties, then wrap and freeze them. Use in any recipe
that calls for bulk sausage.
CARNE / meat
aan > “ Fresh Homemade Fennel Sausage Calabrian Style Casieatd Calabrese)
SUGGESTED WINE: Odoardi “Polpicello,” Scavigna, Calabria
Gaglioppo is the principal grape in this red wine, yielding a big wine with layers of plum and
chocolate flavor but not a huge amount of tannin.
ALTERNATE: “Super Tuscan” blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon
3 pounds (1% kilograms) fresh boneless pork butt with surface fat
(see recipe introduction)
RINSE THE CASINGS of their external salt, then flush the interior of the casings
by running cold water through them repeatedly, like water through a hose. To keep
them from becoming tangled after they are rinsed, keep them submerged in a bowl
of water until you are ready to use them.
Trim the pork, removing any bits of bone, cartilage, or bloody bits. Slice the
pork into 1-inch-wide (2%-centimeter-wide) strips so that it will be easier to feed
through the meat grinder.
Fit the meat grinder with the coarse grinding plate. Grind the meat directly into
a large bowl. Add the paprika, salt, fennel seed, and hot pepper. Mix thoroughly
with your hands for several minutes so that the meat, fat, and seasonings are uni-
formly blended.
Mount the sausage-stuffing attachment on your meat grinder, stand mixer, or
sausage-stuffing machine. Moisten the tubular attachment with water to make it
easier to slip on the casing. Put one end of the casing over the tube, then gradually
work all the casing onto the tube. Do not tie this end off yet.
Begin funneling the sausage mixture through the feed tube so that it fills the
tube. As the meat emerges, it will be preceded by an air bubble. (That's why you
FOR LINKS: Typically, in Calabria, fresh sausages are made in one large coil, like
a big snake. To prepare multiple links instead, pinch the coil about 6 inches (15
centimeters) from one end and twist four to five times at that point to make a link.
Continue to pinch the sausage in that spot while pinching with your other hand 6
inches (15 centimeters) farther along the coil and twisting there to make a second
link. You can now release the first pinch point as you have secured that twist. Con-
tinue to pinch and twist the coil every 6 inches (15 centimeters), keeping the previ-
ous twist from unwinding by pinching it until you have completed the next. With
this method, you avoid untwisting one link while you twist the next. You should
end up with nine links. With kitchen twine, tie off the ends of the links, then cut
between the ties to separate the links before cooking.
Sausages may be grilled, pan-fried, or baked. You can judge doneness by touch—
cooked sausages will be firm—or, if you are unsure, with an instant-read thermom-
eter. When the internal temperature reaches 150°F (65°C) on a meat thermometer,
they are done.
TO PAN-FRY, place individual links in a skillet with enough water to come half-
way up the sides of the pan. Simmer over medium heat, turning the sausages occa-
sionally, until the water almost completely evaporates, 12 to 15 minutes. Lower the
heat, add a drizzle of oil to the pan, and brown the sausages.
214 MY CALABRIA
TO BAKE, preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Place the sausage coil or individual
links on an oiled baking sheet and bake until fully cooked, 15 to 20 minutes, turn-
ing halfway through.
CARNE / meat
By midsummer, the stems have lengthened and toughened and developed a flow-
ering head—actually, a collection of many small flower clusters, each one attached
to a short, thin stem. Once the yellow pollen falls, each cluster is filled with small
green seeds. Over the next few weeks, these green seeds develop some white striping.
Then they grow larger and harder and darken to brown, the final stage. My mother
prefers the seeds at the striped stage, which is usually about mid-August. With scis-
sors, she clips the flower heads, leaving an inch or two of sturdy stem attached.
At home, she washes the flower heads repeatedly in very hot water, sloshing
them in the water, then lifting them out and changing the water until they no longer
release any insects or dirt. At this fresh stage, I use the small seed clusters in Pickled
Eggplant Preserved in Oil with Hot Peppers, Wild Fennel, and Garlic (page 281),
picking the clusters off their tender stems. But most of the harvest is destined for
further drying.
My mother lays the heads out on a brown paper grocery bag, indoors but away
from direct sunlight, and lets them air dry for two to three weeks. At that point,
the flower clusters on the end of each thin stem will be brittle and some seeds will
fall out at the touch. By hand, she painstakingly picks out all the seeds, leaving any
stemmy debris behind. Then she packs these precious seeds in an airtight glass jar
for our family's use over the following year.
Wild fennel seed from Calabria is now available in jars, for those who don't live
in Northern California or don't want to undertake the labor-intensive process of
harvesting it. See Resources (page 370).
216 MY CALABRIA
Vruocculi ca’ Savuzuizza
PAN-FRIED SAUSAGE WITH BROCCOLI RABE
In winter, when broccoli rabe thrives in Calabrian gardens, this dish is a dinner
staple. I always slice the pan-fried sausage and mix it with the greens to flavor them,
but you can leave the sausage whole. I simmer it in water before browning it, but
you can use any cooking method, such as grilling, that you prefer.
TO TRIM THE broccoli rabe, remove large, tough stems, then slit smaller stems
so they cook quickly. Cut the broccoli rabe crosswise into 2 or 3 pieces.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the broccoli rabe and boil until tender,
about 2 minutes. Drain, chill under cold running water, then drain well.
Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over moderate heat. Add the garlic, and hot
pepper to taste, and sauté until the garlic is golden. Add the broccoli rabe and toss
to coat with the seasonings. Season with salt and cook until hot and infused with
the seasonings, about 5 minutes.
Place the sausages in a large skillet with enough water to come halfway up the
sides of the pan. Simmer, turning the sausages occasionally, until the water almost
completely evaporates, 12 to 15 minutes. Lower the heat, add a drizzle of oil, and
cook until the sausages brown, about 2 minutes.
Slice the sausages on the diagonal as thick as you like. Combine with the broccoli
rabe in the skillet and cook until hot. Taste for salt. Serve hot.
SERVES 4
CARNE / meat
Pollo alla Calabrese
BAKED CHICKEN WITH POTATOES, TOMATOES, AND HOT PEPPER
This simple, home-style recipe is prepared in Calabria with chicken and rabbit.
The meat juices infuse the potatoes, and in the end, both meat and vegetables are
cloaked in a savory glaze. The use of oregano and hot red pepper is the Calabrian
signature. I prefer to make the dish with chicken legs and thighs because they take
about as long to cook as the potatoes do. You can use a whole cut-up chicken or just
bone-in breasts, but you will need to remove the breasts when they are done. They
cook faster than the potatoes. My cooking students tell me that this dish has become
their “comfort food,” a nutritious dinner that takes almost no time to prepare.
¥, pound (340 grams) ripe tomatoes, cored and cut into l-inch
(2%-centimeter) chunks
PREHEAT THE OVEN to 450°F (230°C) and position a rack on the lowest level.
Season the chicken all over with 2 teaspoons of the salt and several grinds of black
pepper.
218 MY CALABRIA
Put the potatoes, tomatoes, onion, and garlic in a baking dish large enough to
hold the chicken in one layer. (A 9- by 13-inch/23- by 33-centimeter glass or ceramic
baking dish works well.) Sprinkle the vegetables with the remaining 1% teaspoons
salt. Place the chicken in the baking dish, add the oregano (crumbling the dried
oregano, if using, between your fingers as you add it), and drizzle with the oil.
With your hands, toss the chicken and vegetables to coat them thoroughly with the
seasonings. Then remake the bed of vegetables, arranging the chicken on top, skin
side up. Sprinkle the chicken with hot pepper to taste.
Place the baking dish in the oven on the bottom rack and bake until the skin
is crisp and golden, 30 to 45 minutes. Turn the chicken pieces over and continue
baking until the chicken juices run clear, the potatoes are tender, and most of the
pan juices have been absorbed, 20 to 30 minutes. Serve immediately, spooning the
remaining pan juices over the chicken.
SERVES 4 TO 6
I have found versions of this recipe in many Calabrian cookbooks, with fried pep-
pers sometimes replacing the fried eggplant. In its rustic spirit and informality, it
resembles chicken cacciatore, with tomatoes and mushrooms, which Calabrians also
make. The pancetta and white wine are my contribution, added to give the sauce a
little more depth. I fry the sliced eggplant separately, then fold it into the dish when
the chicken is almost done so the eggplant doesn't overcook and collapse. In the end,
both chicken and eggplant are cloaked in a spicy tomato glaze. Save this dish for late
summer, when eggplants are plump, firm, and shiny, with bright green tops.
Most Calabrian cooks would make this dish with a whole chicken, cut into serv-
ing pieces. I prefer to use all thighs because they cook in the same time and the meat
is always moist. You can use mixed chicken parts if you prefer, or even all breasts,
but you will have to adjust the braising time. Breasts will cook faster than thighs.
Kosher salt
Olive oil for frying
220 MY CALABRIA
CUT THE EGGPLANTS into large chunks, about 1 inch (2% centimeters) thick
and 2 inches (5 centimeters) long. If you are using a globe eggplant, you can quar-
ter it lengthwise, then cut crosswise into 1 inch (2% centimeter) pieces. If you are
using the smaller Italian eggplant, you may only need to halve it lengthwise, then
cut crosswise into 1-inch (2%-centimeter) pieces. If the pieces are too small, they
will fall apart when cooked.
Sprinkle the eggplant all over with 1 teaspoon kosher salt. Heat enough olive oil
in a 10-inch (25-centimeter) skillet to come % inch (12 millimeters) up the side of
the pan, about 2 cups (500 milliliters) oil.
Pat the eggplant dry with paper towels. When the oil is hot enough to sizzle the
edge of a piece of eggplant, fry the eggplant in batches until golden all over, 2% to
3 minutes total. Do not crowd the pan. With a slotted spoon, transfer the cooked
eggplant to a plate lined with paper towels.
Season the chicken thighs all over with 2 teaspoons salt and several grinds of
black pepper. Heat a 12-inch (30-centimeter) deep skillet or Dutch oven over high
heat. Add the extra virgin olive oil, the pancetta, and the garlic and sauté until the
garlic is golden, about 1 minute. Add the chicken thighs skin side down. Sauté with-
out moving them until the skin side is browned and releases easily from the pan,
about 5 minutes. Turn and brown the second side, lowering the heat if necessary to
prevent burning, about 5 minutes.
Transfer the chicken with tongs to a plate and pour off the accumulated fat,
leaving the garlic and pancetta in the pan. Return the chicken to the pan and add
the wine. Simmer until all the wine has evaporated.
Add the tomatoes and hot pepper, if using. Taste and add more salt if desired.
Simmer steadily, uncovered, until the chicken thighs are fully cooked (their juices
will be clear, not pink) and the tomatoes have collapsed into a sauce, about 10 min-
utes. Add the fried eggplant and stir gently to coat the eggplant pieces with sauce
without breaking them up. Continue simmering until the tomato sauce is reduced
to a glaze, about 2 minutes. Stir in the parsley and serve.
SERVES 4
In late summer, when the long Italian peppers have turned from green to poppy-
red, I harvest some to braise with rabbit. These intensely sweet, thin-skinned peppers
resemble the “Corno di Toro” variety sold at farmers’ markets, but bell peppers are
more widely available, so I have substituted them here. In winter, I use the same
sweet Italian pepper but in its dried state, as described in the Variation below.
Although many recipes for rabbit call for browning it first, my mother and
I prefer to simmer the rabbit pieces in salted water with olive oil until they are
tender and the juices reduce to an intense, concentrated broth. Then we add
tomato, sweet peppers, oregano, paprika, and garlic and simmer until the flavors
meld. Rabbit is delicate in taste, and we don't want the caramelized note that
browning introduces.
ASK YOUR BUTCHER to cut the rabbit in half lengthwise, then into 4 to 6 pieces
per half, depending on size. From each half, you will get a hind leg (separated into
222 MY CALABRIA
leg and thigh if large), a loin section, a rib
section (halved if large), and a foreleg.
Put the rabbit pieces in a nonreac-
tive 12-inch (30-centimeter) straight-
sided skillet, 4-quart (4-liter) sauté pan,
or other heavy, wide-bottomed pot with
2%- to 3-inch (6- to 8- centimeter) sides.
Add just enough water to cover the rabbit.
Bring to a boil over moderate heat, skim-
ming any foam. Add 2 tablespoons of the
olive oil and 1 tablespoon salt. Adjust the
heat to maintain a steady simmer. Cook
NEG) TSS un SUES DIE uncovered, turning the rabbit pieces occa-
sionally, until the meat is tender when probed with a fork, about an hour. You
should have about % inch (6 millimeters) of liquid remaining in the bottom of the
skillet. If you have more, simmer until the liquid reduces. If you have less, add
water to bring the liquid to the required depth.
While the rabbit cooks, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet
over moderate heat. Add the bell peppers and cook, stirring almost constantly, until
they have just begun to soften, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and set aside.
Add the garlic and oregano to the rabbit. Simmer for 5 minutes, uncovered,
then add the peppers and their oil, the tomato, the paprika, the hot pepper to taste
and the Homemade Sweet Pepper Paste, if using. Taste the broth for salt. Simmer,
stirring often, until the tomatoes have softened and the sauce has reduced to a glaze
that just coats the rabbit, about 5 minutes.
SERVES 4 TO 6
Many of the baby goats and lambs born in late winter in Calabria are destined for
the Easter table. When they are less than two months old and have still not had any-
thing to eat but mother's milk, they will be sacrificed for this longstanding Calabrian
tradition. Roast capretto (baby goat) is eaten with reverence and great enthusiasm.
The meat is pale, delicate, sweet, and succulent beyond words.
People accustomed to eating medium-rare lamb or beef may be surprised at how
long Calabrians cook baby goat, but the meat from milk-fed animals has a more
appealing texture and taste when fully cooked. In most homes, the preparation
never varies. Some people spit-roast their capretto, basting it as it turns with olive
oil, white wine, rosemary, and garlic. Others cut it into manageable pieces and roast
it—in a wood-fired oven, preferably—with the same mixture of oil, wine, rosemary,
and garlic. The meat is too subtle to withstand bolder seasonings and too prized to
treat in any but the simplest way. Many cooks will put raw potatoes in the roasting
pan with the meat, adding them partway through, but potatoes prepared that way
always taste steamed to me. I prefer to roast them separately so they get crackling
crisp, then combine them with the meat and its juices just before serving.
I am well aware of how difficult it is to find baby goat or lamb in many com-
munities. Every year, my family struggles to find a source so we can maintain this
tradition, and we are often disappointed. To a Calabrian, a capretto worthy of the
Easter table will weigh only 12 to 15 pounds (5% to 7 kilograms) before slaughter,
and perhaps 7 pounds (3% kilograms) cleaned. We occasionally locate a willing
farmer, but my father usually has to do the slaughtering and butchering himself.
Middle Eastern and Hispanic markets are your best bet for finding baby goat or
lamb, although you will have to order it well ahead. Be sure to specify that you want
meat from a milk-fed animal; once goats and lambs begin eating grass, the meat loses
that sweet, milky delicacy. You can apply this same method of roasting to shoulder
chops from a more mature goat or lamb (see the Variation with Lamb Shoulder,
below), but the meat will have a stronger flavor and will release more fat.
Braised peas, asparagus, artichokes, and other spring vegetables are good com-
panions for roasted capretto.
224 MY CALABRIA
MEAT
POTATOES
FOR THE MEAT: Preheat the oven to 450°F (225°C). Position a rack in the upper
third of the oven and another rack in the bottom third.
Remove any visible clumps of fat on the meat. Put the meat in a roasting pan
large enough to hold it snugly in a single layer. Sprinkle each piece on all sides with
salt and pepper. Scatter the garlic and rosemary leaves around the roasting pan.
Add the olive oil and toss with your hands to coat the meat evenly. Cover the roast-
ing pan tightly with aluminum foil.
Roast on the lower oven rack for an hour, then remove the foil cover and turn
the pieces of meat over with tongs. They will have thrown off some juice and will
not be brown yet. Add the wine and move the roasting pan to the upper rack to
make room for the potatoes. Continue roasting uncovered until the meat is fork
tender, lightly browned, and beginning to pull away from the bones, about 45 min-
utes longer. Turn the meat over partway through to keep it moist. If the pan juices
FOR THE POTATOES: Peel the potatoes and cut them in half lengthwise, then
in wedges about 1 inch (2% centimeters) wide at the widest part. The exact size is
not important as long as they are roughly the same size so they cook evenly. Put
them in a 9- by 13-inch (23- by 33-centimeter) nonstick baking dish or other oven-
safe nonstick pan large enough to hold the potatoes in a single layer. Add the olive
oil, garlic, rosemary leaves, salt, and several grinds of black pepper. Toss with your
hands to coat the potatoes evenly, then arrange them in the baking dish with one
cut side down. (Do not season the potatoes too far ahead of time or they will throw
off moisture and will not brown properly.)
Roast them on the lower rack of the oven for 20 minutes, then turn the potatoes
with a metal spatula so the other cut side of each wedge is down. Continue roasting
until the potatoes are crusty and tender when pierced, 15 to 20 minutes longer.
Remove the meat and the potatoes from the oven. Add the potatoes to the roasting pan
with the meat and stir gently to moisten them with meat juices. Serve immediately.
SERVES 6
226 MY CALABRIA
Tiella d'Agnello
BAKED LAMB SHOULDER WITH ARTICHOKES, PEAS, AND BREADCRUMBS
Made with baby goat or lamb, this dish is the centerpiece of the Easter table in the
Catanzaro region. I first tasted it in a Catanzaro restaurant, U Tamarru, where the
kitchen also added potatoes. The meat, still on the bone, is oven braised with arti-
chokes and peas until tender, then blanketed thickly with a breadcrumb topping
and baked further until the crumbs turn crisp. I have substituted lamb shoulder
chops, which are easier to find than baby goat or lamb and more succulent than rib
or loin chops. A tiella is any pot used for oven baking, made of any material, but if
you have a large terra cotta casserole, this recipe would put it to good use.
PEAS
2 cups (500 milliliters) fresh peas or frozen petite peas (no need
to thaw)
PREPARE THE PEAS: Heat the olive oil in a 10-inch (25-centimeter) skillet over
moderate heat. Add the onion and sauté until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the
peas and salt. Cook, stirring, for about 2 minutes to infuse the peas with onion
flavor. Set aside.
PREPARE THE TOPPING: Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl and
blend well.
Remove the roasting pan from the oven and discard the foil cover. Pour off all the
pan juices into a clear measuring cup. Let the juices settle for 5 minutes, then
228 MY CALABRIA
spoon off the fat that rises to the top. Set aside 1 cup of the degreased pan juices
but return the remaining juices to the pan. Add the peas and onions to the pan and
gently stir them in.
Sprinkle the topping over the lamb and vegetables, coating them evenly. Pour
the reserved pan juices over the topping, moistening it evenly. Return the roasting
pan to the oven until the topping is browned and crusty, about 20 minutes. Serve
immediately.
SERVES 4
My mother makes this dish often in late summer when the garden almost over-
whelms us with ripe tomatoes and peppers. It is my father’s favorite tripe prepa-
ration. Like a sponge, the tripe soaks up the intense, sun-sweetened taste of the
vegetables he has nurtured for the past few months, capturing the flavor of the last
weeks of summer. The peppers and tomatoes are both cooked separately from the
long-simmered tripe, then merged with it for the final few moments.
These days, tripe is thoroughly cleaned and partially cooked before it reaches
the retail counter. That's the good news. The bad news is that many processors clean
tripe with a bleaching agent that imparts an objectionable aroma. The longer the
tripe sits, the stronger the bleach aroma gets. Seek out a market with high turnover,
such as a Mexican market, and look for tripe that's beige or ivory, not bone white.
BRING A LARGE pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Cut the tripe into
5 or 6 pieces that will fit comfortably in the pot and add them to the pot. Skim any
foam that collects on the surface as the water returns to a boil. Cover and adjust
the heat to maintain a simmer. Cook until the tripe is very tender and no longer
chewy, 2 to 3 hours or more, adding more hot water if necessary to keep the tripe
well submerged. Drain and let cool, then cut into 1- to 1%4-inch (2%- to 4-centimeter)
squares. Set aside.
230 MY CALABRIA
Halve the bell peppers and remove the ribs, seeds, and core. Cut them into
¥%-inch-wide (12-millimeter-wide) strips. If the peppers are very long, cut the strips
in half.
Heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large skillet over moderately high heat.
Add the bell peppers, season with salt, and cook, stirring often, until they are soft-
ened. Remove the peppers and set aside.
In the same skillet, warm the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil over moderately
high heat. Add the garlic and sauté until lightly browned. Add the tomatoes and a
pinch of salt. Cook briefly just to soften the tomatoes. Add the tripe and cook for
about 5 minutes to infuse the tripe with the tomato flavor. Add the bell peppers
and a generous dash of hot pepper to taste and simmer briefly to blend the flavors.
Serve hot.
SERVES 6
Riis
Verdure
vegetables
233
make with braised meats. We stuff tomatoes—with breadcrumbs, rice, or ricotta; we
use them as toppings for pizza and fillings for pitta (Calabrian stuffed pizza); and
we preserve them in their green state as a spicy pickle or a sweet jam.
In their gardens, most Calabrians grow the esteemed San Marzano tomato, an
elongated, thick-walled variety suitable for canning as pelati (whole peeled toma-
toes) and for sun drying. For sauce, Calabrians want their tomatoes fully ripe, but
for salad, we like them firm and still slightly green. If they are red all over, they will
be too soft for our taste.
The eggplant is second only to the tomato in Calabrians' affections. The Arabs
introduced eggplant to neighboring Sicily, and it easily made the leap to Calabria,
where it thrives in the region's long, hot summers. Southern Italians embraced it
long before the North did, and today, even the most indifferent Calabrian home
cook knows at least a dozen ways to prepare it. The famous Eggplant Parmigiana
(page 252), despite its name, has nothing to do with Parma, the northern city. It is
indisputably a creation of the South, with both Calabria and Sicily claiming credit.
In the province of Reggio Calabria, eggplant dishes can resemble those prepared in
Sicily, with pine nuts, currants, sugar, and vinegar.
The most common Calabrian eggplant is long and slender with a deep purple
skin and few or no seeds, similar to the variety identified as “Italian eggplant” in
many American markets. The “Violetta Lunga” and “Gitana" varieties available from
some seed sources (see Resources, page 370) resemble the eggplant in Calabrian
gardens. They have creamy flesh and are never bitter, unlike the large, seedy globe
eggplant. The skin is tender, and Calabrians rarely remove it. Nor do most Calabrian
cooks salt eggplant before cooking it to extract bitterness. As long as the stem end is
firm and green, the skin taut and shiny, and the flesh devoid of seeds, the eggplant
will not taste bitter.
The sweet peppers used in Calabria also bear mentioning, as they differ from
the familiar bell peppers in the American marketplace. The sweet pepper found in
home gardens and markets in Calabria is 9 to 12 inches (23 to 30 centimeters) long,
tapered, and slender, with relatively thin walls. The “Sweet Italian” and “Marconi”
sweet peppers available from some seed sources (see Resources, page 370) come
closest to the pepper my father and other Calabrians grow.
Calabrians enjoy sweet peppers in their green (unripe) stage and also when they
begin to ripen to red. These green or half-ripe peppers are stuffed with ground meat
or breadcrumbs and pecorino and baked; or pan-fried (sometimes with an anchovy
inside, see page 38) and added to frittatas and scrambled eggs (page 155); or grilled
234 MY CALABRIA
over a wood fire, then peeled and seasoned with olive oil and garlic; or tossed with
pasta, with or without tomato sauce; or braised with other summer vegetables, such
as eggplant, potatoes, zucchini, and tomato, in stews like ciambotta (page Die lit
the Cosentino region, especially, gardeners plant extra peppers to string up and
sun dry (page 293) for winter dishes, like Spicy Braised Rabbit with Sweet Peppers
and Oregano (page 222). Some of these dried sweet peppers will be ground for pepe
rosso, the mild, paprika-like seasoning employed liberally in the Cosentino area.
It might surprise people to learn that Calabrians eat sweet potatoes, a vegetable
rarely associated with the Italian table. We call them patate Americane and use them
primarily in the dough for grispelle (Warm Christmas Doughnuts, page 324), or we
roast them whole in the hot ashes of a wood fire.
Asparagus and mushrooms are among the gifts of the earth that Calabrians
treasure most, but in traditional kitchens, only the wild ones are considered worth
cooking. In spring, we gather the delicate, pencil-thin, wild asparagus spears in
sunny, grassy, uncultivated spots. With luck, we have them on the Easter table in a
frittata or in a pasta or rice dish. Most often, wild asparagus is tossed with pasta or
added to a frittata. I have not included recipes for wild asparagus because it is hard
to come by in the United States. Similarly, Calabrians don't cook with cultivated
mushrooms; they prefer wild mushrooms, for which they forage avidly in fall and
spring.
This chapter includes recipes for the simple salads I make from produce my
father grows, such as the winter Cauliflower Salad (page 240) with anchovies and
olives, and an Eggplant Salad with Garlic, Mint, and Hot Peppers (page 237) that
benefits from being made ahead. He also grows flat Italian-style green beans that I
boil and dress with olive oil, red wine vinegar, and garlic—a summer replacement
for a green salad at my house. But you don't need a garden to make any of these
dishes. Even a supermarket can provide firm Yukon Gold potatoes for Potatoes
Layered with Artichokes and Breadcrumbs (page 259) or sweet red onions for the
Cooked Red Onion Salad with Oregano (page 238). These vigorously seasoned veg-
etable dishes are central to the Calabrian way of eating.
For this dish, we use small Italian eggplant weighing only about 3 ounces (go grams)
each, kept intact at the stem end but sliced to allow the marinade to penetrate. If you
cant find them, look for the elongated Japanese eggplant. The longer the eggplant
marinates, the better.
MARINADE
LEAVING THE CAP and stem intact to hold the eggplant together, make four to
six lengthwise slices, depending on size.
Place the eggplants in a large pot and add enough water to cover them. Bring
the water to a boil over high heat, then add the salt. Boil until the eggplants are
tender but not mushy, 3 to 5 minutes or longer. Push them down frequently with a
wooden spoon to keep them submerged. As they are cooked, lift them out carefully
and arrange them on a rack or in a colander, not overlapping, to dry for one hour.
Transfer the eggplant to a deep baking dish large enough to hold them snugly in
one layer. Whisk together the vinegar, oil, garlic, hot peppers, mint, and salt. Pour
over the eggplant. Baste with the dressing to make sure the seasonings are evenly
distributed. Taste for salt.
Cover and marinate at room temperature for 24 hours before serving. For
longer storage, refrigerate; refrigerated eggplants will keep up to 2 weeks. Bring to
room temperature and taste before serving.
SERVES 6
Sweet red onions are among the most anticipated summer crops in Calabria. Some
of the onions are elongated, like the ones known as torpedo onions in the United
States. Others are rounded but squat, similar to the onions often identified in
American markets as “sweet Italian.” The latter type is what I use for this salad
because they most closely resemble what I remember my grandmother using. She
would cut the peeled onions into wedges and boil them until they had lost their raw
crunch but still had some firmness. After they cooled, she would dress them with
olive oil, a generous splash of homemade wine vinegar, and dried oregano or, on
occasion, chopped fresh mint. The vinegar gives the onions a gorgeous amethyst
color.
In Calabria, these tangy onions are not a condiment, as they might be in the
United States, but a refreshing summer salad. I serve them that way at my house,
although I think they would also be a delicious accompaniment to a hamburger
or a sandwich, in place of pickles. In recent years, I have also occasionally made
this salad with oven-roasted onions. Roasting intensifies the onions’ sweetness,
and their texture is similar to the boiled onions if you take care not to roast them
too long. I like the salad both ways, so I have included the roasted variation here.
The boiled-onion salad will hold up for several days in the refrigerator, the roasted-
onion salad not as long.
Kosher salt
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
CUT OFF THE ends of the onions, then peel and halve them. Cut each half into
wedges that are about % to 1 inch (18 to 25 millimeters) at the widest part. Break
the wedges apart by hand into the individual onion layers.
238 MY CALABRIA
Put 2 quarts (2 liters) of water and 2 tablespoons salt in a 4-quart (4-liter) pot.
Bring to a boil over high heat and add the onions. After the water returns to a boil,
cook for 2 minutes, then drain. Let cool completely.
In a small bowl, combine the olive oil and vinegar. Add the oregano, crushing it
between your fingers as you add it to release its fragrance. Add 2 teaspoons salt and
several grinds of black pepper. Whisk to blend. Pour the dressing over the onions
and toss well. Taste and adjust with more vinegar or salt if needed. You can serve
the onions immediately, but the flavor will only improve if they are dressed several
hours before serving.
SERVES 6
Roasted-Onion Variation
Preheat the oven to 425°F (215°C). Rub
each unpeeled onion with one teaspoon
extra virgin olive oil, then wrap each
onion individually in aluminum foil. Put
the onions in a baking dish to catch any
drips. Roast until the onions have some
give when squeezed, about 1 hour for a
¥, pound (340 gram) onion. Remember
that the onions will continue to cook as
they cool, and you don't want them to be
mushy. Cool to room temperature in the
foil. Unwrap the onions, then peel away
the skin and cut off the top and bottom
ends. Halve the onions, then slice into
wedges that are % to 1 inch (18 to 25
millimeters) at the widest part. Dress as
described above.
In winter, I make cooked salads not only with the crunchy escarole my father grows
but also with cauliflower, broccoli rabe, potatoes, or the wild chicory that my par-
ents sometimes gather in abandoned fields. All of these salads follow roughly the
same format. The vegetable is boiled until tender, drained well, and then dressed
to taste with fruity olive oil, kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper, and a liberal
dose of strong wine vinegar. The result is a refreshing, palate-invigorating dish.
My parents dress their cauliflower salad with only olive oil and vinegar. I
add anchovies and black olives, as is common in parts of Calabria, especially for
Christmas Eve. You can make this salad several hours in advance and keep it at
room temperature.
Kosher salt
¥, cup (60 milliliters) extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar, or more to taste
4 anchovy fillets, coarsely chopped
4 or 5 dry-cured black olives, pitted and quartered
Freshly ground black pepper
SERVES 6
240 MY CALABRIA
Peperoni Fritti con Acciughe
WHOLE FRIED SWEET PEPPERS WITH ANCHOVIES
It is worth seeking out elongated sweet Italian peppers for this recipe instead ofbell
peppers. Look for them in farmers’ markets and specialty produce stores beginning
in late July. They have thin skins that don't need peeling and relatively thin walls,
so they soften quickly when pan-fried. The anchovy fillet tucked inside softens, too,
seasoning the pepper flesh with its saltiness. You can cook the peppers several hours
before serving and keep them at room temperature.
We eat peperoni fritti as a side dish, but they're appropriate as part of an anti-
pasto course and delicious tucked between two slices of crusty bread for a sandwich.
Don't leave the stove while the peppers are frying or you could burn them beyond
recovery. You really have to baby them. (Photograph on page 232)
Kosher salt
WITH A PARING KNIFE, cut out the stem and core of each pepper, leaving the
seeds and ribs inside. Insert one anchovy fillet into the cavity of each pepper.
Put % inch (6 millimeters) olive oil in a 12-inch (30-centimeter) skillet. Add the
peppers in a single layer. It's okay if they fit snugly. Turn the heat to moderately
high. Cover and cook until the peppers are blistered on all sides, about 10 minutes,
turning every 2 to 3 minutes. To minimize splattering, remove the pan from the
heat before you uncover it to turn the peppers. Keep a close eye on the peppers to
prevent burning.
Transfer the peppers to a serving platter and sprinkle them lightly with salt,
keeping in mind that the anchovies are salty. Drizzle with a little oil from the pan.
Serve at room temperature.
SERVES 4
No one walking past my home, with its formal columned facade, could imagine that
behind it is a landscape out of rural Calabria. Fig, apple, peach, nectarine, persim-
mon, loquat, and citrus trees jostle for sun and space with raised beds and terraces.
Kiwi vines clamber over a trellis, while containers filled with basil, hot peppers, and
strawberries consume most ofthe patio. By midsummer, I can hardly move between
the terraces, so thickly are they planted with tomatoes, eggplants, sweet peppers,
beans, and onions.
I cannot take credit for this astonishingly prolific patch of ground. My father,
often assisted by my mother, does all the work of planting and maintaining this
garden, as well as another plot at their own home nearby. As a result, my family
is almost self-sufficient when it comes to fruits, vegetables, and herbs; I buy very
little.
When my parents first came to California as immigrants in 1974, they were
grateful for the opportunity that America represented but distressed by the food
they found. Why could Americans not grow a decent piece of fruit? they wondered.
Where were the slender, elongated eggplants; long, sweet green frying peppers; and
fleshy San Marzano tomatoes that they required for their meals?
Fortunately, they had brought some seeds with them, and gradually they located
other Calabrian immigrants who had managed over the years to bring in seeds and
seedlings from the old country. They gave my father cuttings from their fruit trees
and seeds for the familiar vegetable varieties. Many years later, when my parents
began returning to Calabria for vacation, they collected more seeds for the varieties
they missed, like the tiny, fiery diavoletti hot peppers that Calabrians grow in pots
on their balconies. Our noce pesca giaila (thin-skinned yellow nectarine) grew from
a cutting that my father obtained in Calabria and stuck inside an apple to keep it
moist during the trip back.
With the resourcefulness of the Calabrian farmer he once was, my father gar-
dens with almost no purchased inputs. We get goat and rabbit manure, our only
soil amendments, free from a local farmer. My father digs most ofit into the soil in
the spring before planting but reserves some for making manure tea, an infusion
that he and my mother feed to new seedlings as a sort of booster shot. He mulches
242 MY CALABRIA
with grass clippings and leaves; stakes the peas with fruit-tree prunings; and ties
his tomato vines to their trellis with strips of rags.
Although I am not a gardener, I am in awe of my father’s skill. My soil, once life-
less, is dark and fluffy now. Every flower on his tomato plants sets fruit. Everything
grows bigger in his care; even the mint leaves are enormous. He waters by hand in
the evenings; when I installed a labor-saving drip system, he took it out because it
wasn't moistening the entire root zone.
As much as I appreciate his work and the bounty he produces, I wouldn't mind
having a few ornamental flowers here and there. But my practical father, recalling
harder times, will not stand for it. “You can't eat flowers,” he says.
Ciambotta is the ratatouille of Southern Italy. You will find it on tables from Naples
southward, and of course every region claims that it's theirs. No two versions are
identical because cooks always add more of the summer vegetables they like and less
or none of the ones they don't. At my house, my mother and I fry all the vegetables
separately because they have different cooking times, then we unite them in a spicy
tomato sauce for the final few minutes. Ciambotta always tastes best at room tem-
perature, when the flavors have had a chance to marry. Serve with grilled swordfish,
sausage, or other grilled meats.
REMOVE THE EGGPLANT stems, then quarter lengthwise and cut into ’2-inch-
wide (12-millimeter-wide) chunks. Cut the zucchini the same way. Halve the peppers
and remove the ribs and seeds, then cut into 1-inch (2%-centimeter) squares. Peel
the potatoes and onion and cut into pieces about the same size as the eggplant.
Heat % inch (12 millimeters) of oil in a 12-inch (30-centimeter) nonstick skillet
over moderate heat. Toss the eggplant with salt. When the oil is hot, fry the eggplant
in three batches until] golden. When each batch is done, remove it to a large tray
with a slotted spoon.
Pour off and reserve the oil from the skillet. Return 3 tablespoons of the oil
to the skillet and return to moderate heat. When the oil is hot, add the peppers,
244 MY CALABRIA
season with salt, and fry until they are tender. Transfer them to the tray with a
slotted spoon.
Add 1 tablespoon of reserved oil to the skillet and raise the heat to high. Add the
zucchini and season with salt. Fry until nicely browned and tender, then transfer
to the tray with a slotted spoon.
Add any remaining reserved oil to the skillet along with % cup (60 milliliters)
of fresh oil. Reduce the heat to moderate. Add the potatoes and season with salt.
Fry until well browned, crusty, and tender, then transfer to the tray with a slotted
spoon.
Raise the heat to moderately high, add the onion and garlic, and sauté briefly
to soften. Add the tomato and basil leaves, tearing them in half as you add them.
Cook briskly, stirring, until the tomatoes soften, then return all the fried vegetables
to the skillet. Season with hot pepper to taste and taste for salt, then simmer the
ciambotta for about 5 minutes to blend the flavors. Let rest for at least 30 minutes
before serving.
SERVES 8
Calabrian cooks often make stuffed zucchini, but the filling is usually based on meat
or breadcrumbs. I created this recipe when I needed a vegetable to serve at a class
I taught on homemade ricotta. The filling—a blend of breadcrumbs, zucchini flesh,
and ricotta—is moist and delicate, and it browns attractively on top. I like to use the
short, plump, pale-green zucchini that I find at farmers’ markets in early summer
to midsummer. They are young enough not to have seeds but big enough to offer
room for a stuffing. Any type of summer squash will work, even round types, and
an assortment of shapes would be pretty on a platter.
Served hot, warm, or at room temperature, these baked stuffed zucchini make
a good summer side dish for any grilled or roasted meat, such as Roast Baby Goat
with Potatoes (page 224). You could also serve them with a tomato sauce as the
centerpiece of a vegetarian meal.
If you are using store-bought ricotta, drain the ricotta in a sieve for thirty min-
utes if the cheese has any standing whey. Otherwise, your filling will be too wet.
246 MY CALABRIA
Heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. When the oil is
hot, add the onion and garlic. Sauté until the onion is soft and translucent, about
5 minutes. Add the zucchini pulp and cook until tender. Add the breadcrumbs and
cook, stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes to blend the flavors.
Remove from the heat and add the parsley, ricotta, 2 tablespoons of the pecorino,
and the egg. Mix well and add salt and pepper to taste.
Lightly salt the interior of the zucchini shells and fill them with the stuffing.
Place the twelve filled shells on an oiled 12- by 17-inch (30- by 43-centimeter) baking
sheet. Top each with a sprinkle of the remaining pecorino cheese and drizzle with
2 tablespoons olive oil.
Bake for 20 minutes. The top of the filling should be golden brown. If not, place
the baking dish under a broiler briefly to complete the browning. Serve hot or at
room temperature.
My parents and grandparents dried summer zucchini to have more variety on their
table in winter, but we maintain the tradition today in California because we are
attached to the taste. Drying this mild squash concentrates its flavor, and when the
zucchini are reconstituted by the following method, they taste almost like oyster
mushrooms. After boiling them briefly and squeezing them dry, I sauté them in
olive oil with garlic and both sweet and hot red pepper. Calabrian families serve
them this way as a side dish, but as I've learned from my cooking classes, my stu-
dents love the warm, spicy zucchini spooned on top of sliced bread, crostini style.
Sometimes, Calabrian cooks will simmer some chopped fresh tomato with sun-dried
zucchini prepared this way to create a pasta sauce.
FILL A 4-QUART (4-liter) pot with 2% quarts (2% liters) water and bring to a
boil over high heat. Rinse the dried zucchini by immersing them in a large bow] of
warm water while the water in the pot heats.
Drain the zucchini and add to the boiling water. Boil until the zucchini are
tender but not mushy, 5 to 15 minutes. Timing will vary depending on the original
size of the zucchini, how thickly they were sliced, and how long the zucchini have
been dried. Stop the cooking as soon as you can pierce the zucchini skin easily with
your thumbnail.
Drain the zucchini in a colander, return it to the empty pot, and cover with
cold water. Set aside until cool. You can leave the zucchini in the water for up to 2
hours before proceeding.
Drain the zucchini. Working in batches, squeeze the zucchini between your
hands to remove as much excess water as possible.
248 MY CALABRIA
Heat the olive oil in a 10-inch (25-centimeter) skillet over medium heat. Add
the garlic cloves and sauté until they turn golden, then add the zucchini and sauté
for about 2 minutes to coat it with the oil and infuse it with the garlic flavor. Add
the salt, the Calabrian paprika, and the hot pepper to taste. Cook, stirring with a
wooden spoon, for about 15 minutes to allow the zucchini to absorb the seasonings.
Serve warm or at room temperature.
SERVES 4 TO 6
Eggplant parmigiana is made throughout Italy, but I have never seen a zucchini
version outside of Calabria. In place of fried eggplant, Calabrian cooks will often
substitute fried zucchini made with long, wide slices from the large squash that lurk
in every Calabrian garden. The zucchini are layered with tomato sauce, sliced moz-
zarella or sharp Caciocavallo cheese, and grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, then baked
until the layers coalesce into a thick, savory cake that holds together when sliced.
Calabrians rarely use Parmigiano-Reggiano—they prefer pecorino—but they do use
it here and in eggplant parmigiana in accordance with the dish’s name. Some cooks
embellish their version with layers of sliced hard-boiled egg or ham, but I prefer
this simpler way. Don't be put off by the amount of oil used to fry the zucchini; the
vegetable absorbs very little ofit.
Serve parmigiana di zucchine as a side dish with roasted or grilled poultry, red
meat, or fish.
SLICE THE ZUCCHINI lengthwise about % inch (9 millimeters) thick. Layer the
slices in a colander, sprinkling the layers with 1 tablespoon salt to draw out mois-
ture. Let drain for 15 minutes, then rinse under cold water and pat thoroughly dry
with paper towels.
Heat the olive oil in a 10-inch (25-centimeter) nonstick skillet over high heat.
When the oil is hot enough to sizzle when you dip in a piece of zucchini, add a few
250 MY CALABRIA
slices of zucchini—don't crowd the pan—and fry until soft and lightly colored on
both sides, about 2 minutes total. With tongs, transfer the cooked zucchini to a plate
lined with paper towels. Continue until you have fried all the zucchini.
Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).
Spread % cup (80 milliliters) tomato sauce on the bottom of a 9- by 9-inch (23-
by 23-centimeter) baking dish, just enough to coat it lightly. Make a layer of zuc-
chini slices placed side by side; it is okay if they overlap slightly. Top with another
¥% cup (80 milliliters) tomato sauce, 2 tablespoons of Parmigiano, two leaves ofbasil
torn in small pieces, and one-third of the mozzarella or Caciocavallo. Repeat the lay-
ering of zucchini, tomato sauce, Parmigiano, basil, and mozzarella or Caciocavallo
two more times. Finish with a final layer of zucchini slices, the remainder of the
tomato sauce, and the remaining 2 tablespoons of Parmigiano.
Bake until bubbling and browned on top, about 30 minutes. If the dish is hot
throughout but the surface is not browned sufficiently, broil briefly to color it. Let
rest for at least 15 minutes to allow it to settle before cutting into squares. The dish
is also good at room temperature.
SERVES 8
252 MY CALABRIA
sheets. Continue baking until the slices are lightly browned and tender, about 10
minutes longer. Set aside to cool.
Choose a 2- to 2%-quart (2- to 2%-liter) baking dish at least 2% inches (6 centi-
meters) deep. Put % cup (60 milliliters) of tomato sauce on the bottom, spreading
it to make a thin film. Add a layer of eggplant slices, using one-fourth of the total.
They should fit snugly but not overlap; cut them to fit if necessary. Top the egg-
plants with % cup (125 milliliters) tomato sauce, spreading it evenly, then with 2
tablespoons pecorino. Top with *% cup (150 grams) ricotta in small, evenly spaced
dollops. Repeat this layering—eggplant, tomato sauce, pecorino, ricotta—two more
times. Top with a final layer of eggplants and the remaining tomato sauce, spread-
ing it evenly. Sprinkle the final 2 tablespoons of pecorino on top. Bake until the
contents are bubbling hot, about 30 minutes. Let rest for at least 30 minutes before
serving to allow the layers to settle and the flavors to merge. The dish is best when
barely warm.
SERVES 6 TO 8
USE A MUSHROOM BRUSH or old toothbrush to remove all traces of dirt from
the mushrooms. If necessary, use a damp paper towel to remove dirt that the brush
can't dislodge. With a small knife, trim the stem ends of the mushrooms, removing
254 MY CALABRIA
any tough parts. If you are using porcini, separate the caps from the stems. Slice
the caps % inch (5 millimeters) thick. Slice the stems % inch (6 millimeters) thick,
halving them lengthwise first if they are large. Chanterelles and oyster mushrooms
are usually tender enough to tear lengthwise into %-inch-thick (6-millimeter-thick)
pieces; the exact size is not important as long as they are roughly the same size.
Warm the olive oil and the garlic in a 12- to 14-inch (30- to 35-centimeter) non-
stick skillet over high heat. When the garlic begins to color, add the mushrooms.
Season with salt and add the hot peppers, tearing each into 2 or 3 pieces. Refrain
from stirring the mushrooms until steam begins rising from the sides of the skil-
let. You want to sear the mushrooms; if you stir too soon, they will release a lot of
liquid. Cook the mushrooms briskly until they soften, all their liquid evaporates,
and they begin to sizzle and brown, 10 to 12 minutes.
Add the tomatoes and cook, stirring, until they collapse, about 5 minutes. Stir
in the parsley. Taste and adjust the seasoning and serve hot.
SERVES 6
Asparagi, or asparagus, grow wild in Calabria in spring, the pencil-thin spears usu-
ally emerging just in time for Easter. Their flavor is more intense than that of the
cultivated type. A wild asparagus frittata is a much anticipated dish prepared for
Easter or la Pasquetta, the day-after-Easter picnic in the country (page 79).
256 MY CALABRIA
greens are always cleaned with great care (my mother’s rule is three changes of
water) and boiled until soft; purslane and watercress are among the few eaten raw.
Typically, the cooked greens are dressed with olive oil, sliced garlic, and lemon
juice and served as a salad, but they also appear in pasta, soups, and pitte (stuffed
flatbreads, page 115), and are often braised with borlotti beans. Among my favorite
preparations is a thick soup of borage or chicory and potatoes. Long before nutri-
tionists had any notion of vitamins, Calabrians knew that these edible wild greens
had great health benefits.
Finocchio selvatico, or wild fennel, is a signature taste in the Calabrian kitchen. Prac-
tically every Calabrian knows what it looks like, how to harvest it, and how to use
it. Unlike cultivated fennel, wild fennel is valued for its feathery fronds and aro-
matic seeds, not for its bulb, which is relatively puny. In April and May, we pick
the tender fronds and boil them for use in pasta and minestre, our thick vegetable
soups. In summer, the plant flowers and forms a seed with a powerful anise scent.
We harvest the seed for use in sausage (page 211), liqueur, and many kinds of cook-
ies and pastries. Calabrese sausage would not taste right without wild fennel seed.
Highly prized and much rarer is the black anise seed, a smaller seed with a pungent
licorice aroma. It grows in La Sila and is used in cookies made in that region.
Funghi, or wild mushrooms, hold no secrets for Calabrians, who know where and
when to hunt for each type. For the most part, Calabrians do not buy cultivated
mushrooms. They cook only with the wild fungi that lurk in the woods. The moun-
tainous region of La Sila is famous for mushrooms, especially porcini. Experts
say it may be the most bountiful mushroom region in Italy. The many food shops
Lampascioni are the bulbs of a wild blue hyacinth (Muscari comosum). They resem-
ble shallots, but with a bitter flavor that is not to everyone's taste. In Calabria
and neighboring Puglia, lampascioni are considered a delicacy, and as with truffles,
people are secretive about where they find them. The peak season is May. In the
kitchen, they are typically treated like onions. My mother sliced and fried them for
frittata, but they can also be boiled in vinegar, then preserved in olive oil, or they
can be grilled.
Oregano grows so prolifically on Calabrian hillsides that few cooks would consider
buying the cultivated variety. Those who don't forage for the wild herb and dry
it themselves, as many people do, will buy it from foragers at the local farmers’
market. Every market has vendors selling big bundles of dried wild oregano tied
with string, and the fragrance is incomparable.
But it's not just wild foods that attract the eye of a Calabrian forager. Any fruit or
vegetable going to waste is cause for alarm. In Northern California, where my par-
ents live now, my mother is constantly shaking her head over the fruits and nuts
that homeowners fail to harvest. She will not hesitate to ask a stranger if she can
pick his or her olives or oranges if it looks like no one has plans for the crop. She's
not trying to save money, but from her early years of hardship and now many years
of habit, she simply can't bear to see good food left to rot.
258 MY CALABRIA
Tortiera di Patate e Carciofi
POTATOES LAYERED WITH ARTICHOKES AND BREADCRUMBS
In this traditional side dish, thinly sliced artichokes and potatoes are layered with
well-seasoned breadcrumbs and baked until the vegetables are tender and the bread-
crumbs crusty. The vegetables settle into a “cake” that you can slice neatly and serve
with lamb, pork, chicken, or practically any meat. Calabrians prepare many veg-
etables by this method, including tomatoes, mushrooms, and zucchini—alone or in
combination. I sometimes treat fennel this way, too, although the fennel, if sliced
thinly, does not need to be cooked first.
Take care to make the potato slices equally thin so they will cook evenly. A man-
doline or other vegetable slicer makes this job easier.
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 cup (80 grams) firmly packed fresh breadcrumbs (page 127)
SERVES 6 TO 8
Many restaurants in Calabria serve patate fritte, fried potatoes, with grilled or
roasted meats. The potatoes are cut into wedges and browned in olive oil until
crusty. They are good, but not as good as my mother’s. She slices the potatoes into
rounds, then fries them crisp in oil that she has previously used to fry sweet pep-
pers. The slices clump, which I love because you end up with clusters of potatoes
that are crisp outside and creamy within. She returns the peppers to the skillet at
the end and fries them with the potatoes briefly to fuse the flavors.
I typically serve this dish as an accompaniment to poultry, lamb, or pork. But
in my childhood home in remote Verbicaro, it was often part of a largely meatless
dinner. Unlike Americans, who tend to plan their dinners around animal protein,
my family often did not have fresh meat for dinner. We would have pasta or soup,
followed by a couple of vegetables dishes such as this one. My mother might assem-
ble a platter of cold cuts or sliced prosciutto for my father, but she and I would be
content with garden vegetables.
Kosher salt
CORE THE SWEET PEPPERS, halve them, and remove the white ribs and seeds.
If using bell peppers, cut them into %-inch-wide (18-millimeter-wide) strips. If
using long Italian peppers, cut them in half crosswise before cutting into %-inch-
wide (18-millimeter-wide) strips.
Heat the olive oil in a 12-inch (30-centimeter) nonstick skillet over high heat.
When the oil is hot, add the sweet peppers, the garlic, and the hot pepper, if using.
Stir to coat with oil and fry, stirring constantly to prevent burning, until the peppers
262 MY CALABRIA
are soft, 8 to 10 minutes. Season with 2 teaspoons salt and transfer the peppers to
SERVES 4 TO 6
CUT OFF THE stem end of the butternut squash, then peel the squash with a
vegetable peeler or a knife. You may find it easier to peel if you first cut it cross-
wise where the slender neck swells into a bulbous base. Cut the peeled squash
in half lengthwise and scrape out the seeds. Slice each piece into %6-inch-thick
(4%-millimeter-thick) slices crosswise. You will get half-moons from the neck por-
tion and half-rings from the base, where the seed cavity is.
264 MY CALABRIA
Choose a serving dish or deep platter that will allow you to make three layers
of squash once it's fried. An oval gratin dish about 8 inches (20 centimeters) wide
and 13 inches (33 centimeters) long is perfect.
Heat the oil in a 12-inch (30-centimeter) skillet over high heat. Fry the sliced
squash in batches, turning once with tongs, until the slices develop golden-brown
markings on each side, 2 to 3 minutes total. As they are done, transfer them to
the serving dish or platter. When you have a layer that covers the bottom of the
dish, season it with salt and pepper, sprinkle it with wine vinegar, and scatter the
mint and garlic evenly, using about one-third of each ingredient. Continue frying,
layering, and seasoning the squash until you have used all the squash and the
seasonings.
Let the squash marinate at room temperature for at least 4 hours before serv-
ing, or refrigerate it overnight and serve it the following day, bringing it to room
temperature before serving.
SERVES 4 TO 6
We eat these crisp, crusty florets as a contorno (side dish) in winter. You can use
the same method on baby artichokes or zucchini, although you wouldn't need to
precook them, as you do the cauliflower.
Kosher salt
3 large eggs
Freshly ground black pepper
1% cups (225 grams) fine dry breadcrumbs, homemade (page 127)
or unseasoned store-bought
% cup (35 grams) freshly grated pecorino or Parmigiano-Reggiano
cheese
Extra virgin olive oil for frying
SERVES 4 TO 6
266 MY CALABRIA
Cavolo Cappuccio con Pepe Nero
BRAISED CABBAGE WITH PANCETTA AND BLACK PEPPER
The enormous heads of Savoy cabbage that my father nurtures in my urban California
backyard are ready for harvest by January. One of my favorite ways to prepare this
winter vegetable is the simplest: blanched, then braised with pork fat and finished
with a tongue-tingling amount of black pepper. My grandmother made this dish,
but she used homemade guanciale (cured pork jowls) and lardo (cured pork fat) in
her cabbage. Both of those products are hard to come by in the United States, so I
have substituted olive oil and pancetta.
Serve Braised Cabbage with Pancetta and Black Pepper as a side dish for pork,
rabbit, sausages, duck, or game.
HALVE AND CORE the cabbage, then separate each half into leaves. Cut away
the thick central ribs. Stack the leaves a few at a time and cut into 1-inch-wide
(2%-centimeter-wide) strips.
Bring 4 quarts (4 liters) of water to a boil in an 8-quart (8-liter) pot. Add the
cabbage and cook until tender but not soft, about 3 minutes after the water returns
to a boil. Set aside 1 cup (250 milliliters) of the cooking water, then drain.
Heat a 12-inch (30-centimeter) skillet over medium-high heat. Add the olive oil
and pancetta and cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, until the pancetta softens and
gives off some fat; do not let it brown or become crisp. Add the garlic and sauté for
about 1 minute to release its fragrance. Add the cabbage, the salt, and the reserved
cooking water. Stir well, then reduce the heat. Simmer until all the liquid evaporates
and the cabbage starts to glaze a bit, about 10 minutes. Season generously with black
pepper and taste for salt. Serve immediately.
SERVES 4
_
La Dispensa Calabrese
the Calabrian pantry
sweet and savory preserves, pickles, marmalades,
jams, pastes, and liqueurs
269
If you don't have a garden, you can find the best that nature offers at a local
farmers’ market. There you can hand-select sugary figs or green tomatoes for pre-
serving and know your finished product will be all natural and preservative free. In
a weekend, you can put up enough canned plum tomatoes for a year of pasta sauce.
You will save money, eat better, and possibly have enough of your own handiwork
to share with friends.
Calabrians employ a wide variety of techniques when they preserve food. They
cure ripe olives and fresh fish (anchovies, sardines, and bottarga) with dry salt.
They sun dry fruits (peaches, nectarines, grapes, figs) and vegetables (zucchini,
tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, mushrooms). They preserve many fresh vegetables in
vinegar and olive oil (see page 280), with a few fennel seeds or fresh mint and hot
peppers. They turn citrus fruits into marmalade and candied peel. They infuse rasp-
berries, rose petals, and other fruits, flowers, and herbs in grain alcohol to make
fragrant liqueurs. And, of course, they turn His Majesty the Pig into a year's worth
of cured meats and sausages. The pig's fat was used to preserve braciole (stuffed pork
rolls) and sausages, which would last for months in a crock under a thick blanket
oflard.
On back roads in rural Calabria and in small villages, you can still see the
trays of fruits and vegetables set out to dry in midsummer. My mother remembers
making drying trays from a strong local reed (Arundo donax). She would halve the
long rods lengthwise, dry them in the sun for a couple of days, then weave the strips
into trays for drying figs and Zibibbo grapes. The local ginestra, or Scotch broom,
was also woven lattice-style into mats for sun drying. These resourceful Calabrians
never bought anything they could possibly make with available materials.
Sun-dried vegetables appeared on the winter table in many guises. My mother
often made a sort of winter ciambotta, or vegetable stew, with potatoes and dried egg-
plant, peppers, and zucchini. (Our summer ciambotta, made with fresh vegetables,
is on page 244). She would reconstitute the three dried vegetables in water, then fry
them together in olive oil with garlic. The potatoes would be fried separately to keep
them crisp, then combined with the softened and seasoned dried vegetables and a
generous sprinkle of pepe rosso (Calabrian paprika) to give the color that tomatoes
provide in summer.
My parents also dried tree fruits like peaches and nectarines, although not in
halves. Instead, we pared each fruit into one long strip of skin and flesh, working
around the circumference ofthe fruit as if paring an apple. The ribbon of moist fruit
would be coiled loosely around a bamboo rod perched horizontally on supports, so
the fruit would dry in a coil.
270 MY CALABRIA
Sugar was expensive in Calabria until after World War II, so it made more
sense in earlier times to dry one’s fruit than to preserve it as jam. Many house-
holds did make fig preserves, as the fully ripe figs didn't require a lot of sugar. But
for the most part, families reserved their sugar for coffee and for holiday baking.
For everyday sweetening, Calabrians used honey or mosto cotto, the dark, syrupy,
cooked-down juice from wine grapes. They also used to make a sort of honey out
of figs by cooking them and then draining the syrup through a cloth. The collected
juices, known as miele difichi (fig honey), were used for sweetening desserts.
Old Calabrian homes often had an underground storage space where the earth-
enware crocks filled with sott'oli (vegetables preserved under oil) and with meats
under lard were kept. Homemade prosciutto might hang from beams in these dark,
cool rooms, while bottles filled with peeled tomatoes or tomato puree lined shelves.
In my childhood home, the sausages were hung from beams in the kitchen, absorb-
ing smoke from the fireplace. The lardo (cured pork jowl) also hung from a rafter,
with half of an eggshell suspended underneath it to catch any drips. Iam amazed,
looking back, at the ingenuity that allowed these people to live on little more than
what their patch of earth provided.
In this chapter, I have gathered recipes for the preserved foods my family
makes every year. Some of them, like Home-Canned Peeled Tomatoes (page 296)
and Homemade Tomato Paste (page 299), have commercial equivalents, but I believe
the homemade version is vastly superior. Others, such as Sun-Dried Zucchini (page
291), simply can't be purchased. You will find recipes
for Fresh Fig Jam (page 277) and Green Tomato Jam
(page 275), sparkling enhancements for weekday toast
or weekend biscuits. I have included a quintet of sott'oli
(foods preserved under olive oil), made with eggplants
(page 281), mushrooms (page 283), zucchini (page 286),
green tomatoes (page 279) and fresh tuna (page 288).
Any one of these preserves, accompanied by bread, can
make a quick lunch or launch a dinner party. Served
together, they make a grand antipasto. You will also
discover in this chapter some of the pantry ingredi-
ents that give Calabrian stews, ragts, and sauces their 3
es
Green tomatoes preserved by
homemade seasonings—Ground Hot Red Pepper (page
my mother and me from our
303) and Calabrian Sweet Paprika (page 304)—that my gardens in Oakland
MARCH In the cooler areas, arti- SEPTEMBER Both figs and grapes
chokes are ready for packing under are heavy with sugar and ready for sun
oil. This is also the month for making drying. The shell beans are plump in
rosamarina or sardella (page 42), the their pods and have dried on the vine;
spicy fish preserve. time to shell them.
son begins. Time to pack them under The woods abound in fresh porcini.
salt (page 289). Any mushrooms not eaten fresh
will be sliced and dried. Green olives
JUNE The bluefin tuna catch begins,
may be harvested and cured with
providing the raw material for Fresh
water (page 24).
Tuna Preserved Under Oil (page 288).
At higher elevations, fragoline (wood- DECEMBER Olives left on the tree
land strawberries) ripen and are har- have matured and turned black and are
vested for liqueur and rosolio (page 307). ready for salt curing (page 27).
272 MY CALABRIA
Master Directions for Water-Bath Processing
The following method is the one my mother and I have used for years to process
jars of peeled tomatoes and fruit preserves. The water-bath processing creates a
vacuum seal that allows us to store these jarred foods safely for months in a cool,
dark place.
EQUIPMENT NEEDED
274 MY CALABRIA
Marmellata di Pomodori Verdi
GREEN TOMATO JAM
This chunky jam stumps many tasters, who sometimes deduce from the sea-green
hue and sweet-tart flavor that the dominant fruit is kiwi. Calabrians often make jam
with their green tomatoes, the ones that lose the race to ripen before cold weather
sets in. Simmered with sugar, the tomatoes melt into a thick preserve with a crys-
talline sheen and an apple-like acidity. If you aren't a gardener, ask growers at your
local farmers’ market for green tomatoes. They should be green and firm, with no
sign of red blush. Spread this lemony jam on breakfast toast, serve alongside young
pecorino cheese, or use as a filling for a crostata (lattice-topped tart, page 346).
Green tomatoes contain a lot of pectin, so the jam will stiffen as it cools.
CORE THE TOMATOES, halve them, and dig out the seeds with a table knife.
Cut the tomatoes into %-inch (18-millimeter) cubes.
Put a small plate in the freezer to chill. You will use it later to test doneness.
Place the tomatoes in a heavy 6-quart (6-liter) pot with the sugar, lemon zest,
and lemon juice. Stir well, then bring to a boil over moderate heat. Reduce the
heat to maintain a slow simmer and continue cooking until the tomatoes become
translucent and the syrupy liquid thickens considerably, about 40 minutes, stir-
ring occasionally to prevent the jam from sticking. When the temperature reaches
215°F (102°C) on a candy thermometer, remove the chilled plate from the freezer
and spoon a little jam onto it.
Return the plate to the freezer until the jam is cold. If the jam is still too runny,
continue cooking it. Otherwise, remove the pot from the heat.
Fill and process jars according to the Master Directions for Water-Bath
Processing (page 273). Process half-pint (250-milliliter) or pint (500-milliliter) jars
for 15 minutes.
Leafy fig trees blanket the warm coastal plains and foothills of Calabria, providing
the fruit for one of the region's best-known exports (page 336). Wild fig trees are as
ubiquitous as weeds, sprouting miraculously from patches of untended ground. The
abandoned lot in the old quarter of Verbicaro where my childhood home once stood
is now overgrown with wild fig, thriving on neglect. The fruit of the wild fig is not
tasty, but any Calabrian with land will have a cultivated tree or two—or many more.
There are dozens of varieties, such as the green-skinned and golden-fleshed Kadota,
known in Calabria as the fico dottato, and a green-skinned fig with red flesh known
in Verbicaro as fico del paradiso. I can't resist any of them. When I visit my parents’
summer home in Santa Maria del Cedro, near Verbicaro, I take long morning walks
along the country roads, and no ripe fig within reach is safe.
Most fig trees produce two crops a year: an early-summer crop that forms on
year-old branches, and a late-summer to early-fall crop that develops on new wood.
Because ripe figs are so fragile, many farmers pick and ship them to distant markets
firm and underripe. Consequently, farmers’ markets are the best source for tree-
ripened figs, which are soft to the touch, often starting to split on the surface, and
sometimes showing a drop of syrupy juice at the blossom end.
My fresh fig preserves have an amber hue and a bright background note of
lemon. Enjoy them on breakfast toast, or use them as the filling for an Italian
crostata (lattice-topped tart). You can double this recipe, although you will need a
larger pot.
PUT A SMALL plate in the freezer to chill. You will use it later to confirm whether
the jam has thickened sufficiently.
Remove the fig stems and quarter the fruit. In a 3- or 4-quart (3- or 4-liter)
stainless saucepan, combine the figs, sugar, lemon zest, and lemon juice. Stir until
278 MY CALABRIA
Pomodori Verdi Sott'Olio
GREEN TOMATOES PRESERVED IN OIL
280 MY CALABRIA
Melanzane Sott’Olio
PICKLED EGGPLANT PRESERVED IN OIL WITH HOT PEPPERS,
WILD FENNEL, AND GARLIC
It's simply impossible to eat during the summer months all the eggplant that the
typical Calabrian home gardener produces. But a good share of that harvest is not
intended to be eaten fresh; we grow it to preserve for the winter months, when
vegetable options are fewer. At least in my family, the goal was to preserve enough
eggplant—either by drying it (page 292) or packing it under oil—to last for at least
six months, until the spring garden began producing fresh vegetables.
Eggplant preserved sott'olio—under oil—requires three important steps. The
sliced eggplant is salted first to draw out moisture. Then it is cooked in vinegar
to help preserve it. Finally it is layered with seasonings—at my house, sliced hot
peppers, sliced garlic, and clusters of the aromatic seed pods of wild fennel—then
packed under oil to keep air from spoiling it.
The ideal container for melanzane sott'olio is a wide-mouthed earthenware crock.
A wide-mouthed French canning jar is another option. With a wide opening, you
can pack the container and retrieve the contents more easily.
Melanzane sott'olio was my favorite winter snack as a child. I would fetch the
earthenware crock from the pantry and spoon the spicy pickled eggplant, dripping
with golden olive oil, on bread. In traditional Calabrian homes, it is a winter con-
torno, or side dish, although modern restaurants throughout the region serve it as
part of their antipasti.
1 cup (250 milliliters) extra virgin olive oil, plus more for topping
jars
282 MY CALABRIA
Funghi Sott Olio
5 ’ F
WITH A SMALL KNIFE, trim the stem ends of the mushrooms, removing any
tough parts. Tear the mushrooms lengthwise into strips about % inch (a2 milli-
meters) wide; the exact size is not important as long as the strips are roughly the
same size.
Place the mushrooms in a bow] filled with cold water and gently agitate them
with your hands to dislodge any dirt. Lift them out, leaving the dirty water behind.
If the mushrooms are particularly dirty, you may need to wash them a second time
in fresh water.
My mother and I make 100 pounds (45 kilograms) or more of these preserved zuc-
chini every summer. My cooking students love them, and I have convinced them
that giant zucchini are fit for something other than the compost pile. For preserv-
ing, we like the zucchini to weigh 2 to 3 pounds (900 grams to 1% kilograms) each
so they are firm enough to support the marinade without breaking down. If you
can't find such hefty zucchini at your local supermarket, ask at a farmers’ market.
Every grower has zucchini that have surpassed market size.
Preserved zucchini have a springy, slightly chewy texture that may remind you
of rehydrated porcini. Like sponges, they soak up the vivid flavors of peppers, garlic,
and mint. I often spoon them over small slices of Italian bread for an appetizer. You
could also accompany with sliced salumi and olives for an easy mixed antipasto, or
serve them as a sandwich complement, in place of a dill pickle.
% cup (125 milliliters) extra virgin olive oil, plus move for topping
CUT THE ZUCCHINI crosswise into 3-inch (8-centimeter) pieces. Cut each piece
in half lengthwise, then cut out all the seeds and spongy pulp from the center.
Slice each section crosswise %6 inch (4% millimeters) thick. (A mandoline or other
manual vegetable slicer is helpful for this.)
Make layers of sliced zucchini and salt in a large bowl, then toss well. Macerate
for 12 hours to draw the water out of the zucchini. Drain the zucchini, then squeeze
a handful at a time to remove excess water.
Place the zucchini in a heavy nonreactive pot and add the vinegar and1 cup (250
milliliters) water. The liquid should barely cover the zucchini.
286 MY CALABRIA
Bring to a boil over high heat. Stir to redistribute the zucchini, then reduce
the heat to medium and cook until the zucchini slices are cooked through but still
whole, about 5 minutes. Do not allow them to break apart. Smaller zucchini will
take less time.
Drain the zucchini and put them in a large colander. Top them with a heavy
weight, such as a pot filled with water, to squeeze out the liquid. Let the zucchini
drain under the weight for 15 minutes.
Lay several clean kitchen towels on a table covered with cardboard. Arrange the
zucchini slices on the towels, spreading the slices apart. Let dry at room tempera-
ture until they feel a little leathery and are no longer damp, 24 to 48 hours. They
will shrivel considerably.
Place the zucchini in a bowl and toss with the mint, garlic, hot peppers, and the
% cup (125 milliliters) olive oil. Taste for salt and let the mixture marinate at room
temperature for a day.
Transfer the zucchini to a 1-pint (%-liter) glass jar. Pack them in tightly, push-
ing them down with a fork or spoon to remove any air gaps. Top with olive oil so
they are completely submerged. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 weeks before
sampling to give the zucchini time to absorb the seasonings.
Bring them out of the refrigerator about an hour before you plan to serve them
to allow the oil to liquefy. Return any leftover zucchini to the refrigerator, topping
with oil so the zucchini remain completely submerged. If kept submerged in olive
oil and refrigerated, the zucchini will last for up to 6 months.
High-quality tuna packed in oil is the pride of the Calabrian pantry. Calabrians who
live near the Tyrrhenian coast and have access to superb local tuna in summer often
preserve their own. Home-canned tuna is rich and creamy, with big, meaty chunks
that you find only in the best commercial brands. It could hardly be easier to can
your own, although to produce a safe product, you must have a pressure cooker,
and you must follow the recommended cooking times and temperatures precisely.
It is also important to start with the freshest possible fish.
Wait at least a month before opening your jars. Refrigerate jars after open-
ing. Unopened jars will last at least a year and, according to the experts at Callipo,
Calabria’s most esteemed tuna processor, the flavor improves with age. Use tonno
sott’olio in salads with boiled potatoes, green beans, and tomatoes; in pasta with
fresh tomato; on pizza (page 135); or as part of an antipasto platter.
PLACE 3 QUARTS (3 liters) water in a 6-quart (6-liter) pot and bring to a boil over
high heat. Add the tuna and the salt. The water should cover the steaks.
Return the water to a boil, then reduce the heat to maintain a simmer. Cook for
2 hours, then measure the internal temperature of the tuna with an instant-read
thermometer. It should read at least 165°F (75°C). Remove the fish from the water
and set it on a clean kitchen towel or paper towels to absorb moisture. Place the fish
in a sealed container and refrigerate overnight to firm and dry the meat.
The following day, cut away any discolored flesh or bloodline. Cut the meat into
pieces that will fit in pint or half-pint canning jars. Fill the clean jars, pressing the
fish in place to make a solid pack. Top the jars with olive oil, leaving 1 inch (2%
centimeters) of headspace. Cover the jars with new lids and rings, then process in
a pressure cooker, following the manufacturer's directions, for 100 minutes at 10
psi. Let the jars cool, then store in a pantry or other cool place.
288 MY CALABRIA
Alici Sotto Sale
SALT-CURED ANCHOVIES
CLEAN THE ANCHOVIES as directed on page 31. You do not need to scale them.
Choose a 2-quart (2-liter) earthenware or ceramic crock that is taller than it
is wide so as to minimize evaporation. Make an %-inch-thick (3-millimeter-thick)
bed of salt in the bottom of the crock. Put a layer of anchovies on top of the salt,
packing them snugly. Cover lightly with salt, using just enough to almost cover the
anchovies. Press the salt in place with your hand. Repeat the layering of anchovies
and salt, tucking the anchovy tails under if necessary so they don't poke through
the salt. Finish with a slightly thicker layer of salt, using just enough so that you
can't see the anchovies.
Leave the crock at room temperature for 24 hours, away from sunny windows
where it might get warm. The salt will dissolve and a thin layer of brine will rise
to the top. Top the fish with an inch-thick (2%-centimeter-thick) disk of untreated
wood slightly smaller in diameter than the crock. Press firmly so the brine rises and
completely submerges the anchovies. Top the disk with a 1-pound (450-gram) river
rock or other weight that will not react with the brine.
Keep the crock in a cool, dark place, such as a pantry or wine cellar, for 3 months
before trying the anchovies. Check weekly to make sure the anchovies remain sub-
merged, as some brine will evaporate. Add more cold water if necessary to keep the
anchovies submerged.
The anchovies are ready to eat after 3 months and will last for a year or more as
long as they are constantly covered with brine.
To use, lift out as many anchovies as you need and rinse them well, then pat
them dry. Replace the wooden disk and the weight in the crock and return the crock
to a cool place.
290 MY CALABRIA
Zucchine Seccate al Sole
SUN-DRIED ZUCCHINI
Calabrians preserve their abundant zucchini harvest in several clever ways. One
method is to slice and dry them under the hot summer sun. If you visit Calabria
in midsummer, you will see the drying trays set up wherever people have a little
space behind their house. The relentless sun evaporates all the moisture, shriveling
the zucchini slices until they look like pale dried porcini. Once dried, zucchini will
keep for a year in the pantry.
In winter, we reconstitute them in water, then sauté them in olive oil with garlic
and ground hot red pepper (page 303). After cooking, the dried zucchini have a
springy texture and concentrated flavor reminiscent of mushrooms. Calabrians eat
them as a side dish or add them to pasta with tomato sauce, but you could spoon
them over sliced bread for a warm antipasto. They are a surprise to many Americans
who know only about sun-dried tomatoes.
Save your biggest garden zucchini for sun drying, or ask a farmer at the farm-
ers’ market to supply you with the oversize ones that most shoppers don't want.
Variation
You can dry eggplants by the same process. If using slender Italian- or Asian-type
eggplants, halve them lengthwise. If using large globe eggplants, quarter them
lengthwise. Do not peel the eggplants. Cut into 4- to 5-inch (10- to 13-centimeter)
chunks. Do not remove any seeds. Slice each piece lengthwise into strips about
¥% inch (9 millimeters) thick. Arrange on towel-lined cardboard sheets, as for zuc-
chini, and follow the same procedure for sun drying. The eggplants should be dry
in 3 to 4 days, depending on the weather.
Z9Z MY CALABRIA
Peperoni Seccati al Sole
SUN-DRIED SWEET PEPPERS
Throughout the province of Cosenza, in late summer, people harvest the long sweet
peppers from their gardens, thread them on sturdy twine, and string them up out-
doors to dry. In Calabria's summer heat, the peppers quickly lose their moisture,
becoming leathery and dry enough in a month or so to store for the winter. Even
city people who don't have gardens will buy the fresh peppers, already strung, from
a local market and dangle the drying ristras from their balconies. These are the same
sweet peppers that, when fully dried and ground, produce pepe rosso (Calabrian
Sweet Paprika, page 304), an essential ingredient in Calabrian sausage and some
sauces. But in the province of Cosenza, and rarely elsewhere, home cooks keep many
of their dried peppers whole. Like other natives of the Cosentino (the province of
Cosenza), my mother and I add these sun-dried sweet peppers to braised rabbit
(page 222) and use them in fritters (page 37). She also cooks them with potatoes in
winter. Once rehydrated, dried sweet peppers have the sun-sweetened flavor of ripe
red peppers but are even more concentrated.
TO MAKE SUN-DRIED SWEET PEPPERS, you need long, sweet Italian pep-
pers, such as the variety that seed catalogs call “Sweet Italian.” Farmers’ markets are
the best source for these elongated peppers, which have a more intense flavor and
thinner walls than the square-shaped bell pepper. If you are growing them yourself,
pick them when they are fully mature in size but just before they begin to change
from green to red. If you let them ripen on the plant before drying them, they will
make excellent pepe rosso, but they will not be good for cooking because the recon-
stituted flesh will be soft and tend to pull away from the papery skin.
Spread these underripe peppers on a sheet of cardboard large enough to hold
them in a single layer without touching. Place them outdoors in a warm, well-
ventilated area where they are not exposed to direct sun. You can put them on a
table in the shade of a tree or under an awning, or even indoors by a warm window
or in an airy garage. My mother makes a ristra with a heavy needle threaded with
kitchen twine, stringing the peppers together through their stems. Then she hangs
the ristra from a hook in a warm but shady spot.
Leave the peppers undisturbed until they become fully red, which may take up
to two months. If rain threatens, bring them in until dry weather returns.
My family has always canned enough of our homegrown San Marzano tomatoes
to last us through the winter. I had never even tasted store-bought canned toma-
toes until I began to teach cooking and needed to know what my students had to
work with. Now that I've experienced the difficulty of finding high-quality canned
tomatoes without undesirable additives (page 11), I'm even more motivated to can
enough tomatoes for my winter needs—an amount that has grown along with my
classes—and to encourage my students to do so. Working side-by-side with my
mother, I put up about 100 quarts (100 liters) of tomatoes from my garden every
year.
Until perhaps the middle of the last century, Calabrians were more likely to
make conserva (sun-dried tomato paste, page 299) than to can whole peeled toma-
toes. The conserva could be stored safely under a film of olive oil; the whole tomatoes
had to be sealed in bottles, and glass was costly. Even today, Calabrians making
preserves at home don't use anything resembling our Mason jars. They recycle the
bottles they have, such as juice bottles and beer bottles. My grandmother, like other
Calabrians of her day, used empty wine bottles and Coke bottles.
You might wonder how you get peeled tomatoes inside a wine bottle, and I can
tell you, having filled hundreds of bottles as a child, that it isn't easy. My mother
or grandmother would quarter the peeled plum tomatoes lengthwise, then I would
feed one quarter at a time into the bottle. The bottles were sealed with corks and
tied with an elaborate knot that my mother still recalls today. The knot kept the
corks from pushing up when the bottles were processed. To remove the tomatoes,
my grandparents had devised a long wire with a hook on the end. It was a pain to
fill the bottles and a pain to pull the tomatoes out, but my grandmother wouldn't
consent to canning puree, as her neighbors did. She preferred a chunky tomato
sauce, and I do, too.
You don't have to use San Marzano or even plum-type tomatoes for canning.
Any variety will do as long as it is fully ripe, even a little soft. Home gardens and
farmers’ markets are the best sources for dead-ripe tomatoes. If they're still a little
firm when you buy them, leave them at room temperature for several days until
they have fully colored up and softened.
Cleanliness is extremely important when canning. Make sure your tomatoes are
well washed and that your jars, lids, tongs, and towels are pristine, too.
296 MY CALABRIA
NOTE: The USDA recommends adding 2 tablespoons of bottled lemon juice per
quart of tomatoes to prevent botulism. This is not Calabrian practice, and my
mother and I have never done this. But if you are concerned that your tomatoes are
not sufficiently high in acid, you should follow the USDA recommendation.
In Calabria, even today, conserva is dried under the hot Mediterranean sun. Spread
on a big wooden slab and brought inside at night, tomato puree dries to a thick paste
in three to four days. When my grandmother was young, she and her neighbors
around Verbicaro never put up whole tomatoes or tomato puree. They didn't know
about water-bath canning. Instead, making conserva was the way they preserved
their tomato harvest for the winter. Because it is so high in salt and low in mois-
ture, it does not need to be processed in a water bath like canned tomatoes. Most
Calabrians keep their conserva in crocks in the pantry, sealed with olive oil.
In my grandmother's day, people used conserva for their winter tomato sauce.
They would sauté some garlic, then add a few tablespoons of conserva and some
water and simmer until the conserva dissolved. Today, most cooks use conserva to
add depth to sauces made with canned tomatoes, or to ragu.
Like many time-consuming kitchen arts, making conserva is not as common as
it used to be. When my mother was young, every rural housewife made time for
it. Although you can still see the big trays with their brick-red topping in rural
Calabria, and sometimes on suburban balconies, many people have given up making
it. When you do find it for sale, it is priced like gold.
Homemade conserva has a deep, mellow, caramelized flavor wholly unlike the
acidic taste of canned tomato paste. I dole out this precious preserve by the teaspoon
to add depth to braised lamb shanks or goat sugo. Often, after tasting these conserva-
enriched dishes, guests ask me, “Why is this so good?”
If you know you will have three to four consecutive days of 100°F (38°C) weather,
you can dry the tomato puree under the sun instead of in the convection oven.
Follow the recipe in every other respect, and bring the tray in at night so it doesn't
get damp.
Use only fully ripe, fragrant summer tomatoes for conserva, preferably from a
farmers’ market or home garden. It is not worth going to the trouble of making it
with standard supermarket tomatoes. I use the San Marzano tomatoes my father
grows, but you can use any type of ripe plum tomato or salad tomato.
When using conserva, always salt the dish after you have added the conserva, as
the paste is quite salty.
CORE THE TOMATOES. Cut them in half lengthwise if they are the plum type, in
quarters if they are the large, round salad type. Remove the seeds with your fingers.
Put all the tomatoes in an 8-quart (8-liter) stainless steel pot. Bring to a boil, stir-
ring occasionally until the tomatoes release their juice. Boil briskly for 30 minutes
to soften the tomatoes and reduce the juice.
Pass the tomatoes through a food mill fitted with a fine disk to remove the skins
and seeds. Return the tomato puree to the saine pot and set over high heat. Stir in
the salt and simmer until the puree has reduced to about 1 quart (a liter), 45 to 55
minutes. Turn the heat down as the puree thickens to prevent it from bubbling and
splattering furiously, and stir often near the end to prevent scorching.
With the 1 tablespoon olive oil, lightly oil a 12- by 17-inch (30- by 4.3-centimeter)
rimmed nonaluminum baking sheet. With a rubber spatula, spread the thick tomato
puree in an even layer. It should cover the baking sheet.
Preheat the oven to 200°F (93°C) and turn on the convection fan. Place the
baking sheet on a center rack and cook for 30 minutes. Remove the baking sheet
from the oven and stir the puree with a rubber spatula so that it dries evenly and
doesn't form a crust. Re-spread the puree with the spatula into a rectangle about
% inch (3 millimeters) thick. Be fanatical about spreading it evenly; if any part is
too thin, it may burn. Because of evaporation, the puree will no longer cover the
baking sheet. With a paper towel, remove any bits of tomato that cling to the edges
or exposed bottom of the baking sheet, or they will burn.
Return the baking sheet to the oven and continue baking until the tomato puree
is no longer saucelike but very thick, stiff, and a little sticky, about 3 hours total.
Every 20 minutes, stir and carefully re-spread the puree as before; the rectangle will
become progressively smaller as water evaporates.
Let the conserva cool, then pack tightly in a clean jar with a spoon, tamping it
down to make sure there are no air pockets. Level the surface with the back of the
spoon. Cover completely with olive oil so that the paste is not exposed and refriger-
ate. After every use, level the surface of the paste and top with more oil so the paste
remains completely submerged. It will keep in the refrigerator for at least a year.
300 MY CALABRIA
Conserva di Peperoni
HOMEMADE SWEET PEPPER PASTE
As summer fades to fall and the sweet peppers in Calabrian gardens ripen to all-
over red, traditionalists like my parents make conserva di peperoni. Like conserva di
pomodori (page 299) or tomato paste, this thick, smooth preserve of sweet peppers
and salt enhances dishes in the bleak winter months. A spoonful adds color and
sweetness to tomato sauce, beans, salt-cod preparations, lamb or rabbit stew, and
pasta e fagioli (pasta and bean soup). My mother sometimes puts a spoonful in the
boiling water before adding polenta. Her mother would make a rudimentary winter
pasta topping by sautéing garlic in olive oil, then adding conserva di pomodori, con-
serva di peperoni, and enough water to achieve a sauce.
Sadly, many Calabrians have abandoned the conserva tradition, now that their
markets abound with produce all year. But nothing available in a jar or tube comes
close to the concentrated taste of this condiment, and if you could find it, it would
cost a fortune. It takes five pounds (2% kilograms) of ripe peppers to make a little
more than a cup (250 milliliters).
When my parents were growing up, people still made conserva di peperoni on
trays in the sun. Today, we use a convection oven, which is faster and more depend-
able in my coastal California climate. The method is easy. The only tedious part is
passing the cooked peppers through the food mill to eliminate the skins. When my
mother was young, they didn't throw away the pulpy residue from the food mill,
the part that didn't pass through the screen. They would spread it on trays, dry it
outdoors, and grind it for paprika.
HALVE THE PEPPERS and remove the stems and seeds. Cut each half in half
again crosswise, then cut into 2-inch-wide (12-millimeter-wide) strips. Put the pep-
pers in an 8-quart (8-liter) pot with 1 quart (1 liter) water and the salt. Bring to
a boil over high heat. Cook at a brisk boil, stirring often, until the peppers are
302 MY CALABRIA
Peperoncino
GROUND HOT RED PEPPER
’2 pound small whole dried hot red peppers, about 2 inches long,
such as cayenne, stem and cap removed
PREHEAT THE OVEN to the lowest possible setting, preferably around 140°F
(60°C) but no higher than 160°F (70°C). Dry the hot peppers on a baking sheet in
the oven for 4 hours, then turn the oven off and let the peppers remain in the oven
overnight, or for about 12 hours. They will be dry and crunchy, and you will be able
to hear the seeds rattle inside.
Remove them from the oven and transfer them to a blender. Do not let the
peppers rest long at room temperature before grinding them or they may absorb
moisture and lose some crispness. Blend as fine as possible. Important: To avoid
inhaling pepper fumes, let the ground pepper settle in the blender jar for at least 5
minutes before removing the blender lid. Keep your face averted as you remove the
lid. Transfer the ground pepper to a clean glass jar, and keep in a cool, dark place,
or in the freezer. It will last for up to a year.
This mild seasoning adds sweetness and rich color to many Calabrian dishes, espe-
cially in the Cosentino, the region where I was raised. Juse it liberally in Sun-Dried
Zucchini with Calabrian Paprika (page 248), Dry-Cured Black Olives with Hot Red
Pepper and Fennel (page 27), and numerous other dishes.
TO MAKE CALABRIAN SWEET PAPRIKA, you need long, sweet Italian pep-
pers, such as the variety that seed catalogs call “Sweet Italian." Farmers’ markets
are the best source for these elongated peppers, which have a more intense flavor
and thinner walls than the square-shaped bell pepper. For pepe rosso, they should
be fully ripe and red all over.
Spread these ripe peppers in a single layer on a large sheet of cardboard. Place
them outdoors in a warm, well-ventilated area where they are not exposed to direct
sun. You can put them on a table in the shade ofa tree or under an awning, or even
indoors by a warm window or in an airy garage. My mother makes a ristra with a
heavy needle threaded with kitchen twine, stringing the peppers together through
their stems. Then she hangs the ristra from a hook in a warm but shady spot.
Leave the peppers undisturbed until they are fully dry, which may take one to
two months. They should feel leathery and almost crisp. In Calabria, the weather
in late summer and early fall remains hot enough that the peppers dry thoroughly
outdoors. If you live in a warm climate, you may also be able to dry them completely
outdoors. More likely, the weather will turn cool before the peppers are fully dry.
If you do not have several hours a day at 70°F (21°C) or warmer, you will need to
complete the drying inside, either in a dehydrator or in a warm, well-ventilated
area. My mother places hers on top of the refrigerator.
To complete the drying indoors, remove the pepper stems and seeds and open
the peppers flat. If your dehydrator has a thermostat, set it at 115°F (46°C). Keep
the peppers in the dehydrator until they are completely dry to the touch and leath-
ery, about 10 hours, depending on how dry they were initially. Alternatively, put
the flattened peppers on a tray and keep them in a warm area, such as above the
refigerator, until they are completely dry to the touch and leathery.
Let cool completely, then store in heavy-duty freezer bags in a pantry or in the
freezer until you want to grind some for pepe rosso. They will keep for up to a year.
304 MY CALABRIA
To make pepe rosso, the peppers must be dried further in a low oven to render
them crisp enough to grind. :
Preheat the oven to the lowest possible setting, preferably around 140°F (60°C)
but no higher than 160°F (70°C). Put the dried peppers on a baking sheet in the oven
for 4 hours, then turn the oven off and let the peppers remain in the oven overnight,
or for about 12 hours. They will be crisp and crunchy.
Remove them from the oven and transfer them to a blender. Do not let the
peppers rest long at room temperature before grinding them or they may absorb
moisture and lose some crispness. Blend as fine as possible. Transfer the ground
pepper to a clean glass jar, and keep in a cool, dark place, or in the freezer. It will
last for up to a year.
When you visit someone at home in Calabria, you will practically be barred from
leaving until you have shared a glass of liquore with your host. Within minutes of
your arrival, out will come the serving tray set with tiny cut-crystal glasses and
a bottle of fragrant and probably homemade liqueur. Urging visitors to have a
bicchierino (a little glass) is part of Calabrian hospitality, and the same goes for
restaurants, where waiters apparently find it astonishing that you might end your
meal without a digestivo. No wedding, baptism, birth, or holiday passes without a
celebratory round (or more) of liquori. Typically, at the end of the feast that marks
all these occasions, the tray and the bottle make their rounds at the table. The men
have the liquore, the women have rosolio, a similar concoction but sweeter and lower
in alcohol.
Rural Calabrians have long preserved their orchard fruits in grain alcohol, first
extracting the aromas via infusion, then straining out the fruit and sweetening the
base with sugar syrup. Peaches, nectarines, strawberries, raspberries, prickly pear,
citrus, and many other fruits are captured in the bottle this way. But Calabrians
don't stop with fruit. They make liquori from fresh herbs, such as mint and wild
fennel; flowers, such as roses, violets, and citron blossoms; coffee beans; hazel-
nuts; and even hot peppers. At the lovely Villa San Domenico in Morano Calabro,
I sampled the owner's porcini liqueur and ginseng liqueur—peculiar beverages, to
my taste, but a sign of the fondness Calabrians have for this after-dinner ritual.
My cousin Maria makes a liquore ai cinque agrumi (five-citrus liqueur) with the
peels from orange, lemon, lime, citron, and mandarin orange. I have adapted her
method to mandarins only, as citrons are difficult to find. Try to choose mandarin
oranges with tight, not puffy, skins. If the skins are puffy and loose, pulling away
from the flesh, you may have a hard time removing the zest in strips. If possible,
purchase your fruit at a farmers’ market where you can verify that it has not been
sprayed with chemicals or waxed.
306 MY CALABRIA
WITH A SHARP vegetable peeler, remove the orange zest in wide strips, taking
care to remove only the orange part and none of the bitter white pith.
Pour the alcohol in a 1-liter European-style canning jar with a rubber gasket and
clamp lid, or any other jar of comparable size with a tight-fitting lid. Add the strips
of orange zest. Close the jar and leave to infuse for one week in a cool, dark place,
such as a pantry or wine cellar.
After one week, you can strain and sweeten the infusion. Place 4 cups (a liter)
water and the sugar ina 3- to 4-quart (3- to 4-liter) saucepan over low heat. Stir until
the sugar dissolves and the syrup becomes clear. Remove from the heat and cool
completely to room temperature. Proper cooling is important: if the sugar syrup is
warm when added to the infusion, the finished liqueur will be cloudy.
Strain the infusion through a fine sieve. Stir in the sugar syrup and mix well.
Decant the liqueur into clean bottles or jars. Seal with a cork or lid. Let mature for
at least one week in a cool, dark place to allow the components to blend. The liqueur
will keep indefinitely. Mandarino should be served chilled in small glasses, so refrig-
erate for several hours before serving. Keep opened bottles in the refrigerator.
Limoncello Variation
Substitute 2 pounds (g00 grams) organic Eureka or Meyer lemons for the mandarin
oranges.
Fragolino Variation
Substitute 1 pint (450 grams) organic strawberries, hulled but left whole, for the
mandarin oranges. In Calabria, people gather the tiny, intensely fragrant, wild
woodland strawberries (fragolini), identical to French fraises des bois, for liqueur
and rosolio.
My most requested recipe, these sugar-dusted, supple slices of orange peel are a
homemade solution to the outrageously expensive (and not very tasty) candied
orange peel in stores. I use this exquisite candied peel in Sicilian desserts, such as
cassata and cannoli, and fold it into homemade ricotta ice cream (page 345) or into
the ricotta filling for sweet ravioli (page 322). My daughter eats the peel like candy,
and I have to hide the container in the freezer or it would be emptied in no time. The
peel must be blanched five times to remove any trace ofbitterness, but the painstak-
ing method produces results finer than anything you can buy. The slices are pretty
enough to package in a decorative jar as a holiday gift.
WITH A PARING KNIFE, cut the peel of each orange into strips roughly the
shape of amarquise diamond, about 1 inch (2% centimeters) wide at the widest part
and pointed at the tips, slicing from stem end to blossom end and cutting all the
way through the peel—the colored zest and white pith—but not into the juicy flesh.
Remove each strip as you cut it; it will release from the flesh easily.
Place the peels in a 4-quart (4-liter) stainless saucepan and add 2 quarts (2
liters) cold water. Bring to a boil over high heat and boil for 2 minutes. Drain and
repeat two more times. After the third blanching, drain the peels and return them
to the pot. Cover with cold water and let stand until cool, then drain again.
With a paring knife, slice about half of the softened white pith off the peel, leav-
ing a cushion of about % inch (3 millimeters). If you remove all the pith, the peel
will be too thin and floppy. When you have pared all the strips, return them to the
pot, and repeat the 2-minute boiling two more times, for a total of five times.
Put the sugar in the 4-quart (4-liter) stainless steel saucepan. Add the lemon
juice and 2 cups (500 milliliters) water. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring occa-
sionally until the sugar dissolves, then reduce the heat to maintain a steady but not
vigorous boil and cook for 15 minutes to thicken the syrup. Add the drained peels.
Cook at a gentle simmer, stirring occasionally, until the peels look glassy and
308 MY CALABRIA
translucent, about one hour. To test,
remove one strip and let it cool slightly.
You should almost be able to see
through it.
Remove the peels from the heat
and let them cool in the syrup over-
night. The peels will plump in the
syrup, and the syrup will thicken
considerably. The next morning, set a
wire rack over a cookie sheet. Transfer
each strip to the rack by hand, letting
excess syrup drip back into the sauce-
pan. Use your fingers to scrape excess
syrup from the peels; they should not
be dripping. Let them dry on the rack
until they are no longer tacky, about Oranges at a Vibo Valentia market that sells
only local ingredients
24 hours.
Make a bed of sugar in a flat dish and press each strip in the sugar until evenly
coated on both sides, patting the sugar into place. Return the strips to the rack and
let stand at room temperature overnight to dry further.
To store, layer the peels ina plastic container with parchment paper between each
layer so they don't stick to each other. They will last in the freezer indefinitely.
r ‘ ° . —
Dolci
desserts
311
desserts, enough to celebrate saints’ days throughout the year and provide a groan-
ing board at Christmas and Easter. For ingredients, they turned to dried figs and
raisins; the aforementioned honey and mosto cotto; chestnuts, almonds, and wal-
nuts; wheat flour; ricotta; citrus; and wines and homemade liqueurs. For fat, they
had olive oil and lard. For aroma, they had the abundant wild fennel seed and black
anise seed.
Many older Calabrian desserts are simple doughs shaped in numerous ways
and fried in olive oil, reflecting the lack of baking implements and chemical leav-
ening until modern times. People may not have had baking sheets and cake pans,
but everyone had a pot for frying on top ofthe stove. These sweet fritters and their
many variations include anime beate (“blessed souls,” similar to cream puffs but
with marmalade inside in place of whipped cream); cannariculi or turdilli (a fried
ridged pastry with a honey glaze, page 316); chiacchiere (the same dough in a twisted
ribbon shape); chinulille (sweet fried ravioli with a ricotta filling, page 322); chinule
(fried chestnut ravioli with a honey glaze, page 319), and ciambelline alla Calabrese
(a yeast dough with raisins, shaped into rings and fried). There are dozens more
desserts in the same vein, many of ancient Greek origin.
Today, Calabrians have embraced the luscious pastries of Naples and Sicily, rich
with pastry cream, chocolate, and sugar. Although you will find buttery pastries and
cream-filled cakes in the region's pastry shops, as well as Neapolitan sfogliatelle (a
flaky shell-shaped pastry) and Sicilian ricotta-filled cannoli, these sweets are rela-
tively recent arrivals and not rooted in local tradition. Lacking the usual pastry
ingredients and, until modern times, refrigeration, the region's cooks turned their
talents to sweets that would last. Their creativity produced rustic but still beloved
treats like panicelli (page 330), little packages of Zibibbo raisins and citron wrapped
in citron leaves and baked; mostaccioli (page 326), sturdy honey and almond cookies
with a seemingly infinite lifespan; and crocette (page 336), walnut-stuffed and baked
dried figs, which I think of as Calabria’s energy bars.
December is the month most rewarding to the Calabrian sweet tooth (which,
it must be said, doesn't begin to compare to the famous Sicilian sweet tooth). Two
weeks before Christmas, on December 13, Calabrians celebrate the festa di Santa
Lucia with a dessert called la cuccia, a porridge-like dish of cooked wheat mixed with
mosto cotto and nuts. It commemorates a miracle attributed to her, in which a ship
full of grain showed up in Palermo, in Sicily, when the people there were starving
and praying to Santa Lucia for help.
In the Cosenza region, where I am from, Christmas means grispelle, warm
$12 MY CALABRIA
yeasted fritters drizzled with honey (page 324). (Made ina ring shape, they are cud-
durieddi.) If Imade grispelle at any other time of year, my family would think I had
lost my mind—akin to an American making fruitcake in July. Cannariculi (page 316)
are also traditional at Christmas in the Cosentino, as is pitta ‘mpigliata (page 338),
pastry rosettes with a filling of walnuts, raisins, and cinnamon.
Scalille (or scalidde), meaning “ladders,” are Christmas fritters made with a
dough similar to the cannariculi dough but shaped either to resemble a ladder, with
two long parallel sides and shorter cross bars; or in a long corkscrew-like spiral
made by wrapping a rope of dough around the handle of awooden spoon, then dip-
ping the spoon into the hot oil. According to Ottavio Cavalcanti, a Calabrian scholar
with deep knowledge of the local food traditions, the ladder and spiral shapes sym-
bolize the possibility of rising to heaven.
In the southern part of Calabria, in the region of Reggio Calabria, the Christmas
dessert table will likely include petrali, half-moon turnovers filled with dried figs,
nuts, chocolate, mosto cotto, orange peel, and candied citron and glazed with white
or chocolate icing; and pignolata (page 316), tiny fritters about the size of chick peas
glazed with lemon or chocolate icing.
For the feast of Carnevale, which precedes the forty days of Lent, Calabrians
make chiacchiere and cicirata (page 318), using the same dough as for cannariculi but
shaping it differently. The cicirata are the size of chick peas; the chiacchiere resemble
little bowties.
For Easter, tradition-minded Calabrian housewives bake sweet breads decorated
with hard-cooked eggs. The symbolic egg, with its promise of new life, recalls the
resurrection of Christ. These festive breads are known as buccellati in the Cosenza
region and as cuzzupe or cuddure in other parts of Calabria. Nowadays, some home
cooks also prepare pastiera, a wheat-berry and ricotta tart that came to Calabria via
Naples.
Most of the feste, or saints’ holidays, are clustered in summer, for reasons that
probably have little to do with religion. Every town has its patron saint, celebrated
once a year in that town with an elaborate procession after Sunday Mass. A life-size
statue of the saint is carried from the church through the town streets, with much
revelry, then everyone goes home for a major lunch around one P.M. Because it is a
saint's holiday, lunch ends with dessert, probably purchased from the local bakery
that morning. Those who don't get to the bakery early can be out of luck.
You don't have to travel far in Calabria to find a festa on a summer weekend.
Although these holidays have their roots in religion and maintain a religious veneer,
314 MY CALABRIA
Jomemade Christmas desserts (clockwise
rom upper left): Pitta 'mpigliata (page 338),
nostaccioli con mandorle (page 326),
annariculi (page 316)
Cannariculi
FRIED RIDGED PASTRY WITH WARM HONEY GLAZE
These petite, honey-glazed fritters are always on the abundant Calabrian dessert
platter at Christmas. They are about the size of gnocchi, so depending on how many
other desserts vie for attention, a diner might eat a handful of cannariculi or more
than a dozen. In the province of Cosenza, the same dessert is called turdilli, and the
honey glaze might be replaced with mosto cotto (cooked-down grape must).
Old Calabrian pastry doughs rarely include butter and are sparing with eggs,
so this dessert is obviously a holiday indulgence. Some recipes call for Marsala
or other sweet wine instead of white wine and rum. Some people add cinnamon,
cloves, or orange peel to the dough, and some omit baking powder, but I like the
puffy texture the leavening provides. My family's cannariculi are crunchy outside
and soft within.
It is customary to shape the cannariculi on a wooden gnocchi paddle (see
Resources, page 369) so they have ridges, although the ridges all but vanish when
the dough is fried. At Carnevale, in our family and some other families, the same
dough is used for cicirata (see Variation, below), from the word for chick pea in
Calabrian dialect. The ropes of dough are cut into small pieces, fried and glazed as
for cannariculi, and then piled into a sticky but irresistible pyramid that looks like
a mountain of glistening chick peas. In Calabria’s southernmost province, Reggio
Calabria, the dessert is christened pignolata because the stacked fritters are thought
to resemble a giant pine cone (pigne). Reflecting the influence of neighboring Sicily,
with its elaborate sweets, pignolata is often glazed with a lemon or chocolate icing.
When the same dough is flattened like pasta, cut into pappardelle-like ribbons,
and given a signature twist and fried, the result is chiacchiere (see Variation, below).
A thick dusting of confectioner's sugar replaces the honey glaze. In some families,
these are known as bugie ("lies"), perhaps because few people tell the truth about
how many they have eaten. (Photograph on page 315.)
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CANNARICULI DOUGH
Y%, pound (1 stick; 120 grams) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
FOR THE CANNARICULI DOUGH: Sift the flour and baking powder together
into a bowl and set aside.
In a large bowl, combine the melted butter, wine, rum, sugar, vanilla, and eggs.
Whisk until well blended.
Add the flour to the egg mixture one cup at a time, blending with a fork. Once
you have incorporated all the flour, knead the dough briefly in the bowl with one
hand until it is soft and smooth. It will be moist and a little sticky, but refrain from
adding flour if you can. Cover the bowl and refrigerate the dough for 30 minutes.
To shape the cannariculi, work with a little dough at a time. Cut offa piece about the
size of acigar and roll on a very lightly floured work surface into a rope about % inch
(9 millimeters) in diameter. (If you flour the board too heavily, you may have a hard
time stretching the dough into a rope.) Cut the rope into 1-inch (2%-centimeter)
pieces.
Lightly flour a gnocchi paddle. Put a piece of dough on the paddle. Using the
index and middle fingers of your dominant hand, press down on the dough, then
pull toward you to make the dough curl into a “C." The dough is soft, so you don't
Cicirata Variation
Using the same dough, roll into ropes % inch (12 millimeters) in diameter. Cut
the ropes into %-inch (12-millimeter) pieces. Fry and glaze with honey as for can-
nariculi. When the cicirata are cool, mound them like a mountain and serve.
Chiacchiere Variation
Using the same dough, flatten with a pasta machine or a rolling pin into a %-inch-
thick (3-millimeter-thick) sheet, as for a pie crust, dusting with flour as needed
to prevent sticking. With a fluted pastry cutter, cut the dough into strips about
1 inch (2% centimeters) wide and 6 inches (15 centimeters) long. Cut a 2-inch
(s-centimeter) slit lengthwise in the center of each strip. Pick up a strip, insert one
end through the slit, and pull it through. Fry as for cannariculi. Dust heavily with
confectioner's sugar while still warm.
318 MY CALABRIA
Chinule
SWEET CHRISTMAS RAVIOLI WITH CHESTNUT AND CHOCOLATE FILLING
Chestnut trees proliferate around my hometown ofVerbicaro, and the nearby towns
of San Sosti and San Donato are famous for them. According to my mother, the trees
are of two different types, which the locals can distinguish from the size and shape
of the nut. Castagne ‘nserta are the big fat ones that peel easily. Castagne porcili (‘the
pigs’ chestnuts”) are smaller and more difficult to peel, so they are usually left on
the ground to fatten the pigs.
The chestnut harvest peaks around Christmas, inspiring several holiday des-
serts. These chestnut-filled ravioli, glazed with honey and served warm, are a typi-
cal Christmas pastry in and around Verbicaro. In addition to including boiled and
pureed chestnuts, the rich, dark filling contains raisins, cocoa, chocolate, and cin-
namon. The buttery dough is the same one used for cannariculi (page 316) and
chinulille (page 322).
CHESTNUT FILLING
Divide the chilled dough in half. Working with one-half at a time on a lightly floured
surface, flatten the dough with a rolling pin into a circle about 18 inches (45 cen-
timeters) in diameter and % inch (3 millimeters) thick. Alternatively, flatten the
dough with a pasta machine into a sheet % inch (3 millimeters) thick. Using a 3-inch
(8-centimeter) round cookie cutter, cut as many circles as you can. Set the circles
aside without stacking them. Gather the scraps of dough into a ball and re-roll them,
cutting out as many additional circles as you can. You should get 30 to 32 circles
from one half of the dough, enough to make 15 or 16 ravioli.
TO FILL AND FRY CHINULE: Roll1 heaping tablespoon of the chestnut filling
into a ball and place it in the center of one of the circles. Top with another circle.
Carefully press the edges together with your fingers. Holding a fork horizontally,
seal the rim by pressing gently all around with the tips of the fork tines. Be careful
320 MY CALABRIA
not to pierce the dough or the filling may come out when the ravioli are fried.
Continue until you have assembled all the circles into ravioli, then place the ravioli
on a tray lined with a kitchen towel. Repeat with the second half of the dough and
the remaining filling. Place these on a tray as well. You will have a total of 30 or 32
ravioli.
Put 4 inches (10 centimeters) of oil in a heavy, deep pot over moderately high
heat. When the oil reaches 375°F (190°C) put two or three ravioli in the hot oil. Fry
until golden brown and crisp, 1% to 2 minutes, turning them with tongs or two
forks so they cook evenly on both sides. Transfer them with a wire-mesh skimmer
or slotted spoon to a tray lined with paper towels. Repeat until all the ravioli have
been fried, adjusting the heat as needed to maintain an oil temperature of 375°F
(190°C).
TO SERVE CHINULE: Transfer the ravioli to a platter. If the honey is stiff, warm
it in a small saucepan over moderately low heat until it is pourable. Drizzle the
honey over the ravioli, coating them well. Serve warm.
MAKES 30 TO 32 RAVIOLI
These deep-fried, sugar-dusted ravioli are best eaten soon after they're made, so you
won't find them in Calabrian pastry shops. Chinulille are the province of home cooks,
who prepare them most often at Christmas but for other special occasions, too. The
candied orange peel in the ricotta filling is my own addition; it is not traditional,
and you can omit it.
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TO FILL AND FRY CHINULILLE: Follow the directions for flattening and
cutting the dough and then filling and frying the chinule on page 320, using 1 level
tablespoon of ricotta filling for each raviolo.
MAKES 30 TO 32
324 MY CALABRIA
PUT THE WHOLE sweet potatoes in a large pot that will hold them comfortably.
Cover with 1 inch (2% centimeters) of cold water. Bring to a boil over high heat and
boil until the sweet potatoes can be easily pierced with a fork, 30 to 40 minutes.
Drain them and set aside until cool enough to handle, then peel.
Using a ricer or a food mill fitted with the medium blade, pass the sweet pota-
toes into a large bowl.
Put the lukewarm water in a small bowl and add the yeast. Whisk with a fork
until the yeast dissolves.
Add the flour and salt to the potatoes, then add the water with the dissolved
yeast. Combine the ingredients with your hand until they come together into a
sticky dough, then knead in the bowl, using one hand to steady the bowl and one
hand to knead, until the dough is smooth and well blended, about 5 minutes. It will
still be moist and a little sticky. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and set aside until
the dough doubles in size, about 1% hours.
Put % inch (22 millimeters) of vegetable oil in a 10-inch (25-centimeter) skillet
and heat over medium-high heat until the oil registers 375°F (190°C) on a candy
thermometer.
Oil your hands lightly, then take a golf ball-size piece of dough from the bowl
and stretch it between your hands into a thick “sausage” about 8 inches (20 centime-
ters) long and % to % inch (12 to 18 millimeters) wide. The dough is pliable and will
elongate easily. Carefully place it in the hot oil, then continue shaping and frying
grispelle until you have four or five grispelle in the skillet. Cook until the underside
is a deep golden brown, then flip the grispelle with tongs and brown the other side.
Total cooking time is about 3 minutes.
Transfer the grispelle to a tray lined with paper towels. Repeat the shaping and
frying until you have used all the dough. Add more vegetable oil if necessary to
keep the level at % inch (12 millimeters). Serve the grispelle warm, with honey for
dipping.
Mostaccioli are Calabria’s most beloved holiday cookies, made year-round for wed-
dings, baptisms, festivals, and saint's days. They are also probably among the region's
oldest sweets, judging from their primitive nature. At their most traditional, mostac-
cioli (also called 'nzuddi) are made with nothing but flour and honey worked into a
stiff dough, then rolled flat, cut into whimsical shapes, and baked into a rock-hard
cookie (photograph on page 310). Calabrian children learn to suck slowly on these
jaw-breaking cookies until they soften. Some people make them at home, but most
purchase them from vendors who set up stalls at the religious festivals.
Mostaccioli are never frosted but are charmingly decorated with hatch marks
and tiny squares of shiny colored tinfoil that you remove before eating. The shapes
are limited only by the baker's imagination, but typically include horses and other
farm animals, woven baskets, dolls, and little girls. The most common shapes are
produced with molds, but the artisan mostaccioli maker, or mostazzolaro, creates
many forms by hand, with only a knife, drawing his ideas from myth, legends, and
daily life. In times past, a young man making his first official visit to his fiancée
would take mostaccioli, often in the shape of a heart.
More modern interpretations of mostaccioli, like the recipe below, include spices,
anisette, vanilla, eggs, and even some leavening in the dough to yield a more tender
result. Baked in a log, then sliced on the diagonal, they resemble Tuscan biscotti
in shape but have a spice-cookie fragrance and flavor. My own version, which I
learned from an elderly friend of the family from Crucoli, incorporates a moist,
dark filling of almonds, honey, and chocolate. This embellishment departs from the
austere mostaccioli of tradition, but no one who tastes the results could complain.
(Photograph on page 315.)
DOUGH
MY CALABRIA
1 cup (250 milliliters) honey
2 large eggs |
2 teaspoons orange juice
2 teaspoons anisette
FILLING
1 teaspoon anisette
EGG WASH
1 large egg
MAKE THE DOUGH: In a bowl, stir together the flour, baking powder, and
baking soda. Make a well in the flour and put the remaining dough ingredients in
the well. Stir with a fork until the dough comes together, then knead it in the bowl
with one hand, using the other hand to steady the bowl, until the dough is smooth,
well blended, and similar in texture to a sugar cookie dough, about 2 minutes. Let
stand for 15 minutes to allow the flour to absorb the moisture so it will be firm
enough to roll.
MAKE THE FILLING: Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Toast the almonds on a
baking sheet until lightly colored and fragrant, about 10 minutes. Set aside to cool.
Raise the oven temperature to 375°F (190°C).
Put the honey in a 1%-quart (1%-liter) pot and warm it over low heat until it
becomes fluid. In a small bowl, combine the cocoa, cinnamon, cloves, orange zest,
vanilla and almond extracts, and anisette. Add to the honey along with the almonds
and chocolate. Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring, until the chocolate melts and
the mixture is thick and well blended, about 1 minute. Let it cool until it begins to
stiffen and is no longer syrupy, 1 to 2 minutes, but don't let it cool too long or it will
become too stiff to spread.
Arrange the dough rectangles horizontally on the work surface, so that the 14-inch
side is nearest you. Working quickly with a spoon, spread half the filling on the
bottom half of each sheet of dough, staying about 1 inch (2% centimeters) away
from the edges. By lifting the parchment, carefully fold the top half of the dough
over the filling to make a log about 14 inches long by 3 inches wide (35 by 8 centime-
ters). Peel away the parchment and press the edges of the dough together to seal it
all the way around. Be sure to make a firm seal or the filling may leak during baking.
With the palm ofyour hand, flatten the top of each log to prevent an air pocket from
forming between the filling and the dough.
Line a 12- by 18-inch (30- by 43-centimeter) baking sheet with parchment paper.
Transfer the logs to the baking sheet. With a fork, prick them decoratively, making
about two dozen pricks in each log.
Bake for 20 minutes. While the cookies bake, prepare the egg wash by whisking
together the egg, 1 tablespoon water, and the vanilla. Remove the baking sheet from
the oven and brush the two logs generously with the egg wash. (You won't need it
all.) Return the baking sheet to the oven and continue baking until the logs are
328 MY CALABRIA
caramel brown and firm to the touch, 5 to 10 minutes. Cool on the baking sheet for
about 10 minutes, then cool completely on a rack. With a serrated knife, slice on the
diagonal into cookies about % inch (9 millimeters) wide.
330 MY CALABRIA
some artisan confectionery firms have revived production in recognition of the role
panicelli once played in local life.
The old method calls for tying the ripe grape clusters together and dipping
them in boiling water that has been filtered through wood ash. The ash leaves a fine
coating on the sugary grapes, which protects them from insects during their stay in
the drying shed. When sufficiently dry, the raisins are removed from the stems and
rinsed, and any flawed ones are discarded. Then about twenty of the moist raisins
are bundled with small pieces of citron in citron leaves, tied like a package, and
baked. The heat melts the sugar in the raisins, helping them adhere, and drives the
fragrance of the citron leaves inside.
Panicelli are a ritual confection in Verbicaro, one of thirteen dishes in the feast
of Santa Lucia on December 13. They are usually accompanied by a glass of the sweet
local wine.
The pastry shops on the Riviera dei Cedri (page xiii) sell these whimsical little cakes,
which are filled with plain or chocolate pastry cream and decorated to resemble a
peach. They are more refined than most Calabrian desserts, and I don't know their
origin. Pastry cream was not part of old Calabrian dessert making because refrig-
eration was so late in coming to the region. Even today, pesche con crema are not a
dessert any Calabrian would make at home. My mother and I developed the recipe
only because we missed them so much in California.
Pesche do take time to make, but they require no special skill. If you work care-
fully, you can create a platter of “peaches” that will truly fool the eye. In Calabria,
pastry chefs use Alchermes, a scarlet-colored liqueur, to give the cakes their peach
hue, but as Alchermes is not available in the United States, I have opted for rum or
liqueur tinted with food coloring.
Make the pesche a day ahead to allow the alcohol to penetrate and soften the
cakes. To eat them, twist them apart, like the two halves ofa peach. If you don't have
access to real peach leaves, you can purchase decorative leaves made from sugar or
chocolate from a baking supply store.
PASTRY CREAM
MAKE THE PASTRY CREAM: Ina heavy saucepan, bring the milk and lemon
zest to a simmer. In a bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the sugar until thick and pale
yellow. Add the flour to the bowl and whisk well.
Remove the lemon zest from the milk, then slowly whisk the hot milk into the
egg mixture. Return the mixture to the saucepan and place over moderate heat.
Cook, stirring constantly, until the cream thickens and begins to boil.
Transfer the pastry cream to a bowl. To prevent a skin from forming, place a
piece of plastic wrap on the surface. Cool completely.
MAKE THE DOUGH: Sift together the flour and the baking powder into a bowl.
Whisk the eggs in another bowl. Add the sugar to the eggs and whisk to blend. Whisk
in the milk, butter, and lemon zest and mix until smooth. Add the flour mixture
gradually, mixing with a fork just until you have a smooth, stiff dough. Let the
dough rest for 5 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C) and line two baking sheets with silicone baking
mats or parchment paper.
Using a lightly mounded tablespoon of dough, roll the dough firmly between
your palms to make a smooth, round ball about the size of awalnut. It is important
334 MY CALABRIA
to make the balls the same size, as you will sandwich them later. Place the balls on
the baking sheets, spacing them about 1 inch (2% centimeters) apart. You should
be able to fit twenty-four balls on each baking sheet. Flatten the tops slightly with
your fingertips.
Bake until the bottoms are lightly browned, about 15 minutes. The tops will
remain pale. Cool them briefly on a rack.
While the cookies are still warm and have not yet hardened, hollow out a space
for the cream filling. With a small, sharp knife, cut a circle about the size of aquar-
ter on the bottom (flat) side of the cookie, taking care not to crack the edges. Use the
tip of the knife to scrape out enough crumbs to make a hollow that will hold about
1 teaspoon of filling. (You can save the crumbs for garnishing another dessert, or
discard them.)
Put the rum or the combined liqueur and schnapps in a small bowl. Add enough
drops of red and yellow food coloring to turn the liquid a peach color.
Fill a shallow bowl with about 1 cup (200 grams) of sugar.
Fill the hollow in each cookie with about 1 teaspoon of pastry cream. Sandwich
two cookies, flat sides together, to form a “peach.” Press the two cookies together so
the filling comes just to the edge, taking care not to crack or break them.
Using a pastry brush, generously coat one of the “peaches" with the tinted
liquor. Let it rest for about one minute to absorb some of the liqueur, then roll it
in the sugar. It should resemble a real peach, fuzz and all. Continue until all the
“peaches” are colored and coated with sugar.
Refrigerate the “peaches” overnight in a covered container.
Just before serving, pierce each “peach” with a toothpick where the two cook-
ies come together and insert the stem of a peach leaf. Alternatively, garnish with a
decorative sugar or chocolate leaf.
MAKES 24 ‘PEACHES’
336 MY CALABRIA
Sask tee ele & as st oh eae SS
My mother, Maria, strings figs in the traditional ways to preserve them so we can eat
them like candy in the winter months. Clockwise from top left: chocolate coated figs,
crocette, spinapisci, coroncine. The myrtle leaves are on the right.
own juices and flavored with citrus peel, then several are wrapped together in fig
leaves and baked. The firm of Colavolpe, in Belmonte Calabro, has led the way in
transforming the peasants’ humble candy into elegant gifts suitable for the export
market.
The pastry shops in and around San Giovanni in Fiore, a village in the Sila moun-
tains between Cosenza and Crotone, specialize in this strudel-like pastry. Although
bakeries make it year-round, the dessert is mostly closely associated with Christmas.
Calabrians give each other pitta ‘mpigliata, wrapped and beribboned, the same way
Americans give fruitcake.
Near Crotone, the same dessert is known as pitta ‘nchiusa. Both names roughly
translate as dough rolled around a filling, but that plain description doesn't begin to
convey how pretty these pastries are. Made from a 3-inch-wide (8-centimeter-wide)
strip of dough folded over a filling of walnuts, raisins, cinnamon, cloves, and sugar,
then coiled like a snake and baked with the filling exposed, pitta ‘mpigliata resembles
a multipetaled rose, or an American sticky bun. Although you can bake the rosettes
individually, they are more often clustered snugly in a pan and baked side by side
to form a sort of coffee cake. While still hot from the oven, they are drizzled with
honey, which they soak up like a sponge. At serving time, they are pulled apart into
individual rosettes. (Photograph on page 315.)
DOUGH
FILLING
2 tablespoons sugar
338 MY CALABRIA
2 teaspoons grated orange zest
’2 teaspoon cinnamon
% teaspoon ground cloves
FOR THE DOUGH: In a bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt.
Make a well in the center of this mixture and put the egg, olive oil, wine, and
liqueur(s) in the well. Stir these liquid ingredients with a fork, then gradually incor-
porate the flour mixture. Knead the dough briefly in the bow] with one hand, steady-
ing the bow] with the other hand, until the dough is smooth, silky, and well blended.
Cover the surface of the dough with plastic wrap and let rest for 30 minutes. You can
also make the dough several hours ahead and refrigerate until ready to use it.
FOR THE FILLING: Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Toast the almonds until
lightly colored and fragrant, about 10 minutes. Let cool. Coarsely chop the almonds
and walnuts together. In a bowl, combine the chopped nuts, raisins, sugar, orange
zest, cinnamon, and cloves. Toss together with a fork until well blended.
Divide the dough into 7 equal pieces. To make the base ofthe pitta, flatten one of the
pieces of dough with a rolling pin into a very thin 10-inch (25-centimeter) round.
Place the round on the bottom of an 8-inch (20-centimeter) springform pan so that
the dough comes about 1 inch (2% centimeters) up the sides of the pan. This sheet
of dough will hold the rosettes together in the shape of a cake.
Working with one piece of dough at a time, roll each of the remaining 6 pieces
into a thin rectangle 15 to 16 inches (38 to 40 centimeters) long and a little more
than 3 inches (8 centimeters) wide, flouring the work surface if necessary to pre-
vent sticking. Alternatively, flatten the dough into the specified shape with a pasta
machine. With a fluted pastry cutter, trim the long edges so that the strip of dough
is exactly 3 inches (8 centimeters) wide. Reserve and re-roll the trimmings to make
a seventh rectangle of the same size.
340 MY CALABRIA
Torta di Noci
ROSANGELA'S FLOURLESS WALNUT CAKE
I found the recipe for this featherlight walnut cake in my cousin Rosangela’s hand-
written recipe collection, which she shared with me when I began researching reci-
pes for this book. Calabrian cooks rarely write down recipes, even for pastries. The
only reason Rosangela had recorded some recipes is that when she married my
cousin Alberto, she moved away from her mother. Of course, her notes had few
specific proportions—just “a pinch of that” and “a handful of that.”
This delicate, tender cake is made in homes throughout Calabria and is usually
served with just a dusting of confectioner’s sugar. A dollop of lightly sweetened
whipped cream would dress it up. A nutty, not-too-sweet cake like this one is just
what you want in mid-afternoon with a cup of espresso, or at the end of ameal with
a glass of sweet Moscato or Malvasia or Shelley Lindgren’'s suggestions below. The
cake will fall considerably as it cools, but it will be light inside.
Note that you will need a rotary cheese grater to turn the nuts into a fine, fluffy
meal. A food processor would grind them to paste.
This cake is best eaten the day it is made.
6 large eggs
¥, cup (150 grams) sugar
Grated zest of 1 lemon
Pinch of kosher salt
Confectioner's sugar for dusting
342 MY CALABRIA
A Fruit Lover's Eden
Despite living in California, America's fruit basket, I have never tasted fruits as
good as those I grew up with in Calabria. Now that I return frequently as an adult, I
can verify that the years have not embellished these early taste memories. Calabria's
summer fruits really do seem to have an extraordinary intensity.
Any traveler to Calabria should make an effort to sample some of the more
unusual fruits that thrive in the region. In season, they are available in farmers’
markets and on backyard trees.
The noce pesca gialla, or yellow nectarine, has a thin, almost translucent skin
and a silky-smooth surface. The fruit is entirely yellow, with no red blush, and
has a scent that can perfume a room. Its flavor and fragrance are almost tropical,
reminiscent of mango. A few California growers have now planted this fruit and are
marketing it as a “mango nectarine.” Look for it in July.
The mulberry trees that blanket Calabria attest to the region's once-thriving silk
industry. The silk production has ceased, but fortunately the leafy trees remain.
Fresh mulberries (gelsi), both black and white, have a blackberry shape, although
the white ones are more elongated. They mature in early June and are a fleeting
pleasure, with a season that lasts only a couple of weeks. They are extremely fragile
and need to be eaten the day they are picked. These juicy, sweet berries make exqui-
site ice cream and jam, but no mulberry is as tasty as the one that goes from tree to
mouth.
Fichi d'India, or prickly pears, grow like weeds in parts of Calabria, especially
near the sea. They are the fruit of the cactus and have the spines to prove it. Around
Capo Vaticano, some of the plants are as large as trees. They are wild, not cultivated,
so the fruits, which mature in late summer, are unlikely to turn up in markets.
People simply take them wherever they find them. The fruits have roughly the shape
of a kiwi, with a hard, spine-covered skin that may be yellow, orange, or reddish.
My mother, who has a prickly-pear plant in her backyard, dons gloves to har-
vest the fruit. She brushes off the spines with a scrub brush, rinses the fruit in a
bucket of water, cuts the ends off and then cuts a lengthwise slit. She peels the skin
back from the slit and pops the fruit out whole. The interior is reddish-orange,
344 MY CALABRIA
Gelato di Ricotta Stregata
RICOTTA ICE CREAM WITH STREGA
IN A FOOD PROCESSOR, blend the ricotta, sugar, Strega, vanilla, and lemon
zest until smooth. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and add the cream. Pulse to
combine, then scrape down the bowl and pulse again until completely blended.
Transfer the mixture to an ice cream freezer and freeze according to the manu-
facturer’s directions. By hand, fold in the candied orange peel, if using. Pack the ice
cream in a freezer container and freeze until ready to serve.
The most common crostata, or tart, in Italy is the simple, lattice-topped jam tart,
a pastry that practically every respectable Italian home cook knows how to make.
The dough proportions vary slightly from household to household. Some use a little
more or less sugar. Some add vanilla. Some omit baking powder, but I think the
leavening produces a crisper crust.
You can fill the crostata with any jam or preserves you like, but green tomato
jam intrigues people. I pair the tart with homemade ricotta ice cream, but you could
use a premium store-bought vanilla ice cream instead. Should you have any crostata
left over, serve it for breakfast, as the Italians do.
DOUGH
1% cups Green Tomato Jam (page 275) or Fresh Fig Jam (page 277)
MAKE THE DOUGH: Put the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt in a food
processor. Pulse several times to blend. Add the butter and pulse four to five times,
until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. In a small bowl, whisk together the egg,
346 MY CALABRIA
egg yolk, and lemon zest. With the food processor running, add the egg mixture
through the feed tube. Process just until the dough begins to come together.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead it gently, just until
it comes together into a ball. Do not overwork it or the crust will be tough. Divide
the dough into two unequal portions, one-third and two-thirds. With your hand,
flatten each portion into a round disk about % inch (12 millimeters) thick. Wrap
each disk in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least one hour or up to 24 hours. If
it's refrigerated for more than one hour, you will need to soften the dough slightly
by removing it from the refrigerator about 30 minutes before you plan to roll it.
When I saw this peculiar ice cream ina gelato shop in Scalea, I couldn't resist ordering
it out of curiosity. After I tasted it, I told the server she had made a mistake: she had
given me plain chocolate ice cream. “No, I didn't,” she said. “Just wait. The heat comes
at the end.” She was right. The pepper is only in the finish, like a surprise ending. I
tried repeatedly to re-create the ice cream at home but was never satisfied. Mine didn't
have the same dense, creamy texture or intensity of flavor. Finally I went to the rear
of the shop and asked what kind of chocolate they used. No chocolate, they said. Just
cocoa. As I've since learned, Dutch-process cocoa produces a richer, darker color in
the ice cream than non-Dutched cocoa and a profoundly deep chocolate taste.
IN A BOWL, whisk the cocoa into the milk until well blended. The mixture will
be thick.
In a saucepan, using a whisk or an electric hand-held mixer, whip the egg yolks,
sugar, and vanilla until thick, pale yellow, and creamy. The mixture should form a
ribbon when you lift the whisk. Whisk in the cocoa mixture.
Set the saucepan over medium heat and cook, whisking constantly, until the
mixture visibly thickens, coats the spoon, and registers about 180°F (82°C) on an
instant-read thermometer. Do not allow it to boil or it may curdle. Transfer imme-
diately to a bowl and let cool for 15 minutes, then whisk in the cream. Refrigerate
until cold. Stir in the red pepper and taste. The pepper’s heat comes on slowly, so
wait a moment before you decide to add more.
Freeze in an ice cream freezer according to the manufacturer's directions.
348 MY CALABRIA
Gelato alla Liquirizia
PURE LICORICE ICE CREAM
Calabrian licorice is prized by licorice enthusiasts the world over (page 350). I
remember sucking on the tough, wild licorice roots as a child and loving their men-
thol-like taste. Pure licorice, derived from that gnarly root, is much more potent
than the sweetened candy made with licorice extract. It is available in several forms,
but I purchase it as small, pebble-like hard candies known as liquirizia spezzata. The
candies melt in hot milk, forming the base for a silky ice cream that will delight
anyone who adores licorice. The color is that of coffee gelato, the flavor subtle but
unmistakable. Serve plain or with a drizzle oflicorice liqueur.
PUT THE LICORICE ina plastic storage bag and pound it with a mallet or rolling
pin to crush so it will melt faster in the warm milk. Put the crushed licorice and the
milk in a 1%-quart (1%-liter) saucepan and set over medium-low heat. Bring to a
simmer, then whisk constantly until the licorice dissolves, about 5 minutes.
In a medium bowl, using a whisk or an electric hand-held mixer, whip the egg
yolks and sugar until thick, pale yellow, and creamy. The mixture should form a
ribbon when you lift the whisk. Slowly whisk in the licorice mixture.
Return the mixture to the saucepan over medium heat and cook, stirring con-
stantly with a wooden spoon, until the mixture visibly thickens, coats the spoon,
and registers 180°F (82°C) on an instant-read thermometer. Do not allow it to boil
or it may curdle. Transfer immediately to a bowl and let cool for 15 minutes, then
whisk in the cream. Refrigerate until cold.
Freeze in an ice cream freezer according to the manufacturer's directions.
350 MY CALABRIA
Semifreddo al Torrone
SEMIFREDDO WITH ALMOND NOUGAT AND BITTERSWEET
CHOCOLATE SAUCE
CHOCOLATE SAUCE
SLICE THE NOUGAT into thick fingers, then place in a heavy-duty plastic bag
and pound with a mallet or the side of a heavy cleaver until crushed. You should
have no pieces larger than a petite pea, but stop short of pounding the nougat to
To serve, remove the plastic wrap covering the loaf pan. Put a platter upside down
over the loaf pan. Invert and remove the loaf pan and plastic wrap. Cut the semi-
freddo into ¥%-inch (12-millimeter) slices and place on dessert plates. Spoon choco-
late sauce around it. Serve immediately.
SERVES 12
392 MY CALABRIA
Bagnara’'s Artisan Torrone
The picturesque fishing town of Bagnara, on Calabria’s Tyrrhenian coast, has
another specialty besides its sought-after swordfish. The torrone, or nougat, from
Bagnara, made by a handful
of small artisan producers in town, is held in high
regard throughout Italy. Thought to be of Arab origin and introduced to Calabria
via the Spanish, torrone has been produced commercially in Bagnara for at least
two hundred years. Recipes and businesses pass from one generation to the next,
in unbroken succession; over time, the machinery is modernized and the packaging
updated, but the candy remains essentially as it was two centuries ago.
At the small firm of Cundari on the edge of town, Vincenzo Cundari perpetuates
the craft he learned from his father. In the kitchen behind his tiny shop, egg whites
and honey are whipped in a warm water bath for seven to eight hours, until they
are thick, stiff, and fluffy. Toasted almonds are added to the mixer, then, working
with a little at a time so the mixture stays hot and malleable, workers flatten it on
work tables with rolling pins and cut the slabs into the traditional log shapes, or
individual petite torroncini. A machine applies the chocolate glaze, then workers
attach a thin sheet of edible paper made with rice flour or potato starch to keep the
candy from sticking to its wrap.
Torrone production occurs largely in September and October, in time for the
Christmas holidays. Firms like Cundari make the sweet in several permutations,
and every torrone fancier has a favorite. Torrone may be chewy or crunchy, covered
with white or dark chocolate, studded with candied fruit, or scented with orange
essence. Torrone gelato, despite the name, is not frozen but a chewy torrone with
candied fruit and a chocolate coat. Torrone martiniana—"poor man’s torrone'—is
the oldest type, made with only caramelized honey and almonds, no egg whites. It
is the color of dark caramel and as brittle as praline.
The picturesque fishing town of Pizzo on Calabria’s Tyrrhenian coast is a mecca for
ice cream fans, who come expressly to taste a dessert developed there. The town’s
main square is lined with gelaterie (ice cream shops), all of them making the famous
tartufo and claiming that theirs is the best or the only authentic one. As I discovered
when I began trying to decipher the recipe, the shopkeepers are extremely competi-
tive, even jealous, and disinclined to share any details with an outsider.
Pizzo's truffle mystified me for a long time. It is a molded ice cream dessert
resembling a giant black truffle, with a cocoa coating concealing two layers of ice
cream: a chocolate layer on the outside and hazelnut within. But the surprise is in
the center, a molten fudge sauce that oozes like lava when you cut into the truffle.
tHow, I asked myself, can a frozen dessert have a flowing interior?
In the interest of research, I sampled the tartufo at several of Pizzo's gelaterie.
They varied only slightly, depending on the skills of the gelataio (the ice cream
maker). “Play with the amount of sugar,” one gelataio told me when I asked how to
keep the fudgy center soft. No one would be more specific.
One July afternoon when a storm was brewing and few tourists strolled Pizzo's
main square, I struck up a conversation with the proprietor of Chez Toi, who was
standing outside his modest gelateria watching the ominous clouds gather. He
insisted that I come inside to taste his tartufo. As soon as I sat down at one of his
little café tables, the sky opened up and rain began pelting the street in a downpour
so furious that it was impossible to think of venturing out again until it stopped.
Owner Vittorio Rigo, who had no other customers, eventually sat down with me and
began revealing some ofthe tartufo's secrets. He showed me his workroom, described
how he shaped the truffles by hand, and confirmed that the fudge filling contained
only cocoa, sugar, and water, although he would not reveal the proportions.
At home in California, preparing to experiment with the filling again, I had a
stroke of luck. While researching the history of Pizzo's tartufo online, I stumbled on
a document that Pizzo's artisanal tartufo producers had written jointly. To protect
their livelihood from the many imitators making Pizzo-style tartufi in Diamante and
other Calabrian beach towns, they had banded together to define the official dessert
and propose certification for Pizzo's artisanal producers. (Only in Italy is ice cream
taken so seriously.) The document did not give the recipe, but it did give ranges for
the various ingredients, information that helped me devise a liquid-centered tartufo
as good as any in Pizzo.
Dotc! / desserts
Although Rigo showed me how he shapes the tartufo in his hand, I found this
method awkward. Instead, I use a slope-sided glass custard cup lined with plastic
wrap as a mold. Shortly before serving the tartufi, I unmold them, coat them with
cocoa, and let them soften a little in the refrigerator so the ice cream will be silky
and the filling properly fluid.
Even the Pizzo producers don't agree on the origins of their trademark dessert.
Their document puts forth several theories. The most often repeated one attributes
the tartufo to a Sicilian gelataio who opened a shop in the town and introduced the
dessert in the 1950s.
Dark Chocolate Ice Cream with Hot Red Pepper (page 348), hot red
pepper omitted
CHOCOLATE FILLING
COATING
FOR THE HAZELNUT ICE CREAM: Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Place
the nuts on a rimmed baking sheet and bake, stirring occasionally, until they are
fragrant and golden and their skins begin to crack, 12 to 15 minutes, While they
356 MY CALABRIA
are hot, transfer the nuts to an old, dry kitchen towel, gather the edges of the towel
together into a bag, and rub the nuts vigorously inside the towel to loosen the skins.
When you open the towel, you will find that many of the nuts have shed their papery
skin. With your fingers, rub away as much of the remaining skin as you can. It's
okay if you can't remove every last trace. Let the nuts cool before continuing.
Place the cooled hazelnuts in a food processor and grind them into a coarse
paste, like natural peanut butter. Place the hazelnut paste in a 2-quart (2-liter)
saucepan and whisk in the milk. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, whisking,
then turn off the heat and let the mixture steep for 15 minutes. Stir in the vanilla.
In a medium bowl, whisk the egg yolks and sugar until the yolks are pale, the
sugar has dissolved, and the mixture is thick and creamy, about 2 minutes.
Slowly add the warm milk to the egg mixture, whisking constantly until well
blended. Then return the milk-egg mixture to the saucepan. Cook over medium heat,
stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the mixture is thick enough to coat
the spoon and reaches 180°F (82°C) on an instant-read thermometer, 3 to 5 minutes.
Do not let it boil or it may curdle. Remove from the heat.
Transfer the mixture to a large, clean bowl and let it cool for 10 minutes. Whisk
in the cream. Strain through a fine sieve into another bowl, pressing with the back of
a spoon to extract all the liquid from the ground hazelnuts. Refrigerate the custard
until cold. Transfer to an ice cream freezer and freeze according to the manufactur-
er’s directions. Pack the freshly churned ice cream in an airtight plastic container
and freeze for at least 3 hours before serving. You will have about 1% quarts.
FOR THE CHOCOLATE FILLING: Place the cocoa powder, % cup (160 milli-
liters) water, and granulated sugar in a 1%4-quart (1%-liter) pot. Whisk to combine
and place over medium heat. Cook, whisking constantly, until the mixture reaches
190° F (88°C) on a candy thermometer, just shy of boiling. Remove from the heat
and cool. When cool, transfer to a plastic container and place in the freezer until
it is firm but not too stiff to scoop, about one hour. You can leave it in the freezer
for weeks, if you like, but then you will need to thaw it until it is soft enough to
SCOOP.
TO ASSEMBLE THE TRUFFLES: Remove the ice creams from the freezer and
let soften enough so they can be easily scooped. If they become too soft while you
are assembling the truffles, they will be difficult to mold; return them briefly to the
freezer to firm them.
TO COAT AND SERVE: Combine the cocoa powder and superfine sugar in a
wide, shallow dish and mix well. About 20 minutes before serving, remove the
tartufi from the freezer. Working with one at a time, unwrap a tartufo and roll it in
the cocoa-sugar mixture until generously coated all over. Put the tartufi on a tray
and place in the refrigerator to soften for about 15 minutes before serving. Transfer
to individual plates to serve.
MAKES 10 TARTUFI
358 MY CALABRIA
The man who showed me how to make tartufo di Pizzo, at “Chez Toi” in Pizzo
Vini di eal pee.
the wines of Calabria
I grew up in a hill town known for its wine. Virtually everyone in Verbicaro had a
few vines, enough to make wine for their own consumption. Some residents, like
my parents, had more vineyard land and were able to make a living by selling wine
or grapes. Every home had an underground catuvo, or wine cellar, where the wine
barrels and bottled wines were kept. Periodically, my father and his friends would
gather in each other's cool, dark cellars to sample and critique the wine and share
a snack of bread and homemade salumi, or the crisply fried dried sweet peppers
known as peperoni.cruschi.
In my father's day, Verbicaro was best known for its dry red wine from the
indigenous Magliocco dolce grape (my father knew it by another name: Guarnaccia
nera) and for a dessert wine made from the Zibibbo grape, a type of Muscat. People
from as far away as Naples would come to Verbicaro to buy wine.
My father and his neighbors pruned their vines in the alberello (‘‘little tree”)
style, a method known to the ancient Greeks. Alberello vines aren't trained horizon-
tally on trellises, like modern French or California grapevines. Instead they grow
without supports and are pruned low to the ground, similar to the old head-pruned
Zinfandel vines in some California vineyards. This method protects the grapes from
the fierce sun and wind, while allowing air to pass through the clusters, keeping
them dry and mildew free. It naturally restricts the yield, so the grapes develop
more concentration. And because the vines stay low, they absorb reflected heat from
the ground, which helps ripen the grapes fully and produce wines with substantial
alcohol.
My father may not have understood all the viticultural arguments for the albe-
rello method—he was simply growing grapes the way his father did—but it suits
361
Calabria's hot, dry climate. Many growers later turned to trellis systems to get
bigger yields and accommodate mechanical harvesters, but a few—like Librandi
and Odoardi—are returning to the more labor-intensive alberello method for their
best wines.
My father and mother worked together in the vineyard, doing almost every task
by hand. They hired men to help them turn the soil in the spring but otherwise they
had no assistance and no machinery. When a crew was there, my mother would pre-
pare a huge mid-morning meal for them. As a child, I always wondered how these
men could eat so much food so early. Only later did I realize that they had been
laboring in the fields since dawn.
Verbicaro's wine industry declined gradually over the twentieth century, the
victim of Calabria’s troubled economy and steady emigration. Many frustrated
Verbicaresi, including my parents, simply walked away from their vineyards. Today,
there is little commercial grape growing in Verbicaro itself, although there is a
Verbicaro DOC (denominazione di origine controllata, or appellation), which encom-
passes a wider area. Even so, the DOC produces relatively little wine.
My parents’ experience as struggling grape growers in the 1950s and 1960s
stands in stark contrast to the energy, excitement, and optimism prevalent among
Calabrian wine producers today. Visionary winemakers like Nicodemo Librandi,
Gregorio Odoardi, and Roberto Ceraudo are bringing attention and critical acclaim
to a region that has the longest wine history in Italy.
Calabria is the original Oenotria (“the land where grapes flourish"), a name
bestowed by the Greek colonists who made this peninsula a stronghold of Magna
Graecia. They found grapevines here and they planted more, especially in the coastal
area between Sibari and Crotone. The wine from Krimisa (today's Cird) was so
esteemed that the Greeks used it to toast victorious Olympic athletes. Many wine
historians believe that the Greeks introduced some ofthe grape varieties that remain
important in Calabria today, such as Greco bianco and Greco nero.
The Romans expanded the vineyards in Calabria and exported the wine to other
parts of their empire. Archeologists have turned up plentiful evidence of wine
making in Calabria during Roman times, such as storage vats and amphorae, and
writings of the Roman politician Cassiodorus praise the wine of the region.
During the Byzantine era, wine production persisted largely in the monasteries,
as wine was essential to religious rites. Grapevine cultivation moved into the hills
in this period, as people abandoned the coastlines for the safety of the interior,
fearing both Arab invasions and malaria. By the 1500s, Calabria's wines were well
MY CALABRIA
known beyond its borders, with Scalea a major shipping point. Three centuries
later, wealthy young Europeans on their Grand Tour were praising
in their letters and journals.
Disaster swept Calabria's vineyards in the late 1800s, as it did clsews
Europe, with the arrival of phylloxera. This voracious root louse devasteted vines
especially in the province of Reggio Calabria. Infected s
vines grafted onto phylloxera-resistant American rootstock. Grapevine
didn't recover until the 1920s.
Two world wars and the slow pace of modernization in twentieth-century
Calabria afflicted the wine industry as well. Calabria lagged in adopting modern
vinification technology, such as temperature-controlled stainless steel] fermentation
tanks, and temperature- and humidity-controlled facilities for
Vi aging
22
2515,S
Until the end of the twentieth century, few Calabrian grape growers Dott
the wine made there was sold in bulk for blending—used to add color and alooholix
strength to wines made in regions less favored by sun.
Today, that old system is in rapid transition, as forward-thinking Calabrian
wine producers like Librandi, Lento, Ceraudo, Odoardi, and Statti have taken to
bottling their own wines under their own names. Families that used to sell theiz
grapes are starting small, independent wine making ventures, investing
Ht in
+ modern
ESS 6 ee!
of the few Calabrian wineries with strong export sales, exemplifies the regions
renewed pride in these indigenous grapes. Although he never abandoned the native
varieties, Nicodemo Librandi, a leading figure in the region, once believed that his
winery's prestige lay in bottling international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot, and Chardonnay—or blends of these varieties with native grapes.
the winery's vision has shifted. Librandi has sought out and planted many indig-
enous Calabrian varieties, including many that had been all but abandoned in favor
of more productive types. The winery aims to identify and preserve the old grape
varieties that have the most potential to produce great wines. Ironically, Calabria s
historic reluctance to modernize its vineyards kept some of these grapevines from
extinction, waiting to be rediscovered.
MY CALABRIA
variety in the white wines of Cird and Lamezia, although it is usually blended with
other white varieties. It is also known as Guardavalle, among other names.
Greco di Bianco: In this case, the Bianco refers not to the Italian word for white but
to the wine-growing commune of Bianco in the province of Reggio Calabria. It is
the same grape as Malvasia delle Lipari, grown on Italy's Aeolian islands and made
there into a sought-after dessert wine. Similarly, in Calabria, the Greco di Bianco
yields one of the rarest and most ancient dessert wines in Italy and one of the great
sweet wines of the world. Bottled as Greco di Bianco DOC, this luscious passito (des-
sert wine) delivers a heady scent of bergamot.
Other indigenous white varieties grown in Calabria include Guarnaccia bianca, Mal-
vasia bianca, Pecorello, Trebbiano toscano, and Moscato bianco. Some growers have
also planted Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, and Sauvignon Blanc.
Nerello: Several different cultivars bear the name Nerello (“little black one”) in
Calabria, usually with an identifying adjective to distinguish them (Nerello mas-
calese, Nerello cappuccio, Nerello paesano). In some parts of Calabria, the grape
known simply as Nerello is the same as Tuscany’s Sangiovese. Perhaps the most
admired of these Nerello cultivars is Nerello mascalese, an up-and-coming variety
in both Calabria and Sicily. Wines made from it exhibit aromas of rose hips and
cherry, a muscular structure, and good acidity. In Calabria, Nerello mascalese is
grown mainly around Lamezia and used in the Lamezia DOC and Sant'Anna di Isola
Capo Rizzuto DOC wines. Nerello cappuccio is often part of the blend in the DOC
reds of Lamezia, Savuto, and Scavigna.
Other indigenous red varieties grown in Calabria include Calabrese (the grape
known in Sicily as Nero d'Avola), Greco nero, Castiglione, Prunesta, and Nocera.
Growers have also planted some international red varieties, such as Merlot, Caber-
net Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Sangiovese.
366 MY CALABRIA
Ceraudo, Fattoria San Francesco, Ippolito 1845, Librandi, Santa Venere, and Luigi
Vivacqua are among the Ciro producers to watch for.
Lamezia, a DOC zone on the Tyrrhenian coast, produces red and white wines
from many varieties and in high volume, but some wineries, such as Statti and
Cantine Lento, are capable of outstanding quality. The predominant red grapes
include Nerello mascalese, Magliocco dolce, and Gaglioppo. The Lamezia DOC whites
are typically blends dominated by Greco bianco.
Traveling in Calabria provides the opportunity to sample wines from the lesser-
known DOCs of Bivongi, Donnici, Greco di Bianco, Melissa, Pollino, San Vito di
Luzzi, Sant'Anna di Isola Capo Rizzuto, Savuto, Scavigna, and Verbicaro.
371
La Tay er net ta Ristorante Medusa Wineries
~ —, - an
nirad
Contrada Campo oan Via Salomone, 243
Azienda Vinicola
Pizzo (VV)
Tramontana
Tel: (0963) 531203
Via Casa Savoia, 156
www.ristorantemedusa.com
89135 Gallico Marina (RC)
Ristorante il Vecchio Ristorante a Casa Janca Tel: (0965) 370067
Castagno Riviera Prangi, www.vinitramontana.it
Locanda Tavernisi Localita Marinella
Cantine Lento
88040 Serrastretta (CZ) Pizzo (VV)
Via del Progresso, 1
Tel: (0968) 81071 Tel: (0963) 264364
88046 Lamezia Terme (CZ)
Chestnut specialties; superb
L'Approdo Tel: (0968) 23804
Via Roma, 22 www.cantinelento.it
89811 Vibo Marina (VV)
Cantine Spadafora
Tel: (0963) 572640
Zona Industriale Piano Lago, 18
www.lapprodo.com
Mangone (CS)
Taverna Kerkyra Tel: (0984) 969080
24 a “
z| % om° 1 fu b , o lay]
Via Vittorio Emanuale, 217 www.cantinespadafora.it
Ristorante Pimms 89011 Bagnara Calabra (RC)
Cantine Viola
La rgo Migliaresi Tel: (0966) 372260
Via Roma, 18
88038 Tropea (CZ)
Baylik 87010 Saracena (CS)
Tel: (096:
Vico Leone, 1/3/5 Tel: (0981) 349495
Ristorante Dattilo 89100 ReggioCalabria (RC) www.cantineviola.it
Contrada Dattilo Tel: (0965) 48624
Casa Vinicola Crisera
www. baylik.it
Via Militare, 10
89053 Catona di Reggio Calabria
(RC)
Il Conte di Melissa Tel: (0965) 302683
SS 106 Torre di Guardia www.crisevini.it
Aragonese
Ceraudo
Torre Melissa (KR)
Contrada Dattilo
Tel: (0962) 865386
Marina di Strongoli (KR)
Ristorante Max Tel: (0962) 865613
Via Togliatti www.dattilo.it
Ciro Marina (KR)
Fattoria San Francesco
Tel: (0962) 373009
Strada Provinciale ex S.S. 106
www.maxpub.it
Loc. Quattromani
Ristorante da Erc ole 88813 Cird (KR)
Tel: (0962) 32228
www.fattoriasanfrancesco.it
G. B. Odoardi
Contrada Campodorato
88047 Nocera Terinese (CZ)
Tel: (0984) 29961
Santa Venere
Tenuta Voltagrande SP,
88813 Cird (KR)
Tel: (0962) 38519
www.Santavenere.com
Statti
Contrada Lenti
88046 Lamezia Terme (CZ)
Tel: (0968) 456138
www-.statti.com
Terre di Balbia
Loc. Montino
Altomonte (CS)
Tel: (0481) 61264
www.terredibalbia.it
Vintripodi Cantine
Via Vecchia Comunale, 28
89121 Archi (RC)
Tel: (0965) 48438
www.vintripodi.it
Alois, Ester, Anna Amoroso, and Silvana Ferretti, Lya, and Piero Serra. Cucina e vini in
Lombardi. Chi mangisi ‘nta l'anno: storielle di cibi e Calabria. Monteruscello: Salvatore di Fraia
di feste. Self-published. Castrovillari, 1989. Editore, publication date unknown.
Andricciola, Pietro. I Vini di Calabria. Lamezia Fotia, Giuseppina, and Salvino Nucera. Sapori
Terme: Calabria Mia, 2004. Antichi della Calabria Greca. Reggio Calabria:
Giuseppe Pontari Editore, 1996.
Baccellieri, Carlo. La buona cucina di Calabria.
Reggio Calabria: Falzea Editore, 1999. Multiple contributors. I! Gaglioppo e i Suoi Fratelli:
I Vitigni Autoctoni Calabresi. Ciré Marina: Librandi
Canadé, Teresa Gravina. Una Calabrese in cucina. Spa, 2008.
Soveria Mannelli: Rubbettino Editore, 2000.
Imbesi, Bianca Paliologo. Cucina Tradizionale di
Cavalcanti, Ottavio. Di cibo e dintorni. Cassano Calabria. Rome: Gangemi Editore, publication
Jonio: Istituto di Ricerca e di Studi di Demologia e date unknown.
di Dialettologia, 1995.
Stella, Gian Antonio, and Vito Teti. La Nave della
. Del mangier simboli. Castrovillari: Editrice Sila. Soveria Mannelli: Rubbetino Editore, 2006.
Il Coscile, 2005.
Teti, Vito, ed. Mangiare Meridiano. Cosenza:
De Leo, Pietro. In Calabria: Nature, Art, History. Carical, 1996.
Soveria Mannelli: CittaCalabria Edizioni, 2004.
Vairo, Filippo. Antichi sapori di Amantea. Self-
Dodaro, Francesca. Sua maesta il porco. Cosenza: published. First ed. 1996; second ed. 2005.
Edizioni Periferia, 2004.
374
Index
agriturismi, Calabrian, 371 Marinated Fresh Anchovies with Red Onion and
Albarifio, 30, 37 Parsley, 30-31, 31, 164
alberello vines, 361-62 newborn (caviale dei poveri), xiv, 42-43, 159
Albers Corn Meal, 16, 110 in Paccheri con Pesce Spada e Pomodori Pacchini, 74
alcohol. See grain alcohol Peperoni Fritti con Acciughe, 241
Alici Fritte, 164 Pitta Mijina, 140-41
Alici Marinate, 30-31, 31, 164 Pizza con Zucchine e Fiori di Zucchine, 137, 138, 139
Alici Sotto Sale, 271, 289-90 Pizza with Grilled Zucchini and Stuffed Zucchini
almond(s) Blossoms, 137, 138, 139
Honey Cookies Filled with Almonds, Cocoa, and salt-cured, cleaning and filleting, 70
Anisette, 326-28 Salt-Cured Anchovies, 271, 289-90
Mostaccioli con Mandorle, 326-28 Struncatura con Acciughe e Mollica, 68-70, 127
Pitta ‘mpigliata, 338-40 Tortiera d'Alici, 165-66
Rolled Pastry Rosettes with Walnuts, Raisins, and Warm Seafood Crostini, 39-40
Cinnamon, 338-40 Whole Fried Sweet Peppers with Anchovies, 241
almond nougat, xix Whole-Wheat Linguine with Anchovies and
about, 353 Breadcrumbs, 68-70, 127
Semifreddo al Torrone, 351-52 Anchovy-Stuffed Peppers, 38
Semifreddo with Almond Nougat and Bittersweet anime beate, 312
Chocolate Sauce, 351-52 anise seed
Alois Falanghina “Caulino,” 30 about, 103
Amantea, xiv Creamy Chick Pea Soup with Shrimp and Anise
Amontillado sherry, 341 Seed, 103, 104, 105
anchovies Vellutata di Ceci con Gamberi, 103, 104, 105
about, 11 anisette
Alici Fritte, 164 Honey Cookies Filled with Almonds, Cocoa, and
Alici Marinate, 30-31, 31, 164 Anisette, 326-28
Alici Sotto Sale, 271, 289-90 Mostaccioli con Mandorle, 326-28
Anchovy-Stuffed Peppers, 38 antipasti, 20, 21-43
Baked Fresh Anchovies with Breadcrumbs, 165-66 Alici Fritte, 164
Cauliflower Salad, 71, 110, 189, 235, 240 Alici Marinate, 30-31, 31, 164
Cornmeal Flatbread Cooked on a Cabbage Leaf, Anchovy-Stuffed Peppers, 38
140-41 Calabrian Rusks with Fresh Tomato and Garlic
Crostini di Pesce, 39-40 Topping, 31, 34, 35-36
fresh, cleaning, 31 Calabrian Rusks with Olive Oil, Oregano, and
Fried Fresh Anchovies, 164 Garlic, 36
Insalata di Cavolfiore, 71, 110, 189, 235, 240 Calabrian Sweet Pepper Fritters, 37-38, 189
in Large Pasta Tubes with Swordfish and Cherry Cracked Green Olives with Fennel and Hot Pepper,
Tomatoes, 74 24-26
375
antipasti (continued) Bagnara torrone, 353
Crispy Eggplant Meatballs, 31, 32-33 Baked Chicken with Potatoes, Tomatoes, and Hot
Crostini di Pesce, 39-40 Pepper, 193, 195, 218-19
Crostini with Bottarga Butter, 40, 41, 189 Baked Lamb Shoulder with Artichokes, Peas, and
Dry-Cured Black Olives with Hot Red Pepper and Breadcrumbs, 195, 227-29
Fennel, 27-28, 304 Baked Ricotta-Stuffed Zucchini, 246-47
Favas and Olives, 28, 29 Baked Zucchini Layered with Tomato, Mozzarella,
Fave Arrappate, 28, 29 and Parmigiano-Reggiano, 250-51
Fried Fresh Anchovies, 164 baking tiles, 124-25
Friselle con Pomodoro Crudo, 31, 34, 35-36 Barbera d'Alba, 55, 97
Marinated Fresh Anchovies with Red Onion and Barolo, 220
Parsley, 30-31, 31, 164 Basilim “Sicone,” 97
Melanazane Sott'Olio, 23, 216, 281-82 bean(s). See also chick peas; cranberry beans; fava
Olive Nere Secche con Peperoncino, 27-28, 304 beans; Romano beans
Olive Verde Schiacciate, 24-26 “Bean Pod” Pasta with Spicy Lamb Ragu, 82-84
Peperoni Fritti con Acciughe, 241 Beaumes de Venise, 333
Pickled Eggplant Preserved in Oil with Hot bell peppers
Peppers, Wild Fennel, and Garlic, 23, 216, Baccala alla Verbicarese, 184-85
281-82 Ciambotta, 244-45
Pipi 'Mpajanati, 37-38, 189 Coniglio con Peperoni, 17, 194, 222-23, 235
Polpette di Melanzane, 31, 32-33 Crisp-Fried Potatoes and Sweet Peppers, 262-63
seafood menu for, 40 Homemade Sweet Pepper Paste, 222, 271, 301-2
summer menu for, 31 Patate Fritte con Peperoni, 262-63
Tartine al Burro do Bottarga, 40, 41, 189 Salt Cod with Sweet Red Peppers and Potatoes,
Warm Seafood Crostini, 39-40 184-85
Whole Fried Sweet Peppers with Anchovies, 241 Scrambled Eggs with Sweet Peppers, 155
winter menu for, 28 Southern Italy's Summer Vegetable Stew, 244-45
appellation, 362 Tripe with Tomatoes and Sweet Peppers, 230-31
arancine, Xvill Trippa con Peperoni, 230-31
Arbéresh, 62 Uova Strapazzate con Peperoni, 155
Argiolas "Korem,” 63 Belmonte Calabro, xiv
Arneis, 41 Benanti “Rosso di Verzella,” 109
artichokes bergamot, xix, 323
Baked Lamb Shoulder with Artichokes, Peas, and Bivongi wines, 367
Breadcrumbs, 195, 227-29 borage, harvesting, 256-57
Potatoes Layered with Artichokes and boragine, harvesting, 256-57
Breadcrumbs, 127, 235, 259, 260, 261 borlotti beans. See cranberry beans
Tiella d'Agnello, 195, 227-29 bottarga
Tortiera di Patate e Carciofi, 127, 235, 259, 260, 261 Crostini with Bottarga Butter, 40, 41, 189
Asiago cheese Pizza con Tonno e Bottarga di Pizzo, 135-36
Pizza con Zucchine e Fiori di Zucchine, 137, 138, 139 preparation of, 42
Pizza with Grilled Zucchini and Stuffed Zucchini Tartine al Burro do Bottarga, 40, 41, 189
Blossoms, 137, 138, 139 Tuna and Red Onion Pizza with Bottarga, 135-36
asparagus bottarga di tonno, 42, 43
about, 235 Braciole di Cotenne, 194, 195, 204-5
wild, 256 Braciole di Pesce Spada alla Griglia, 99, 127, 172-73
Braised Cabbage with Pancetta and Black Pepper,
baccala. See salt cod 267
Baccala alla Verbicarese, 184-85 Braised Chicken with Eggplant, Tomatoes, and
Bagnara Calabra, xix Pancetta, 220-21
376 INDEX
Branzino Sotto Sale, 69, 103, 160, 181, 182, 183, 189 Whole-Wheat Linguine with Anchovies and
bread. See also toast(s) Breadcrumbs, 68-70, 127
about, 113-16, 117 Bread Starter, 122, 125-26
baking, 124-25 broccoli rabe
Bread Sponge, 122 Pan-Fried Sausage with Broccoli Rabe, 109, 217
Bread Starter, 122, 125-26 Vruocculi ca’ Savuzuizza, 109, 217
Calabrian Rusks, 35, 100, 128-30 brodo, 93
Calabrian Rusks with Fresh Tomato and Garlic Brunello, 220
Topping, 31, 34, 35-36 Bruzio, olive oil from, 15
Calabrian Rusks with Olive Oil, Oregano, and buccellati, 117, 313
Garlic, 36 Butirro, 148, 154
cudduredda, 120, 121, 123-24, 124 butternut squash
filone, 120, 123, 124 Butternut Squash Marinated with Garlic and
flatbread. See pitta; pizza Mint, 264-65
Friselle, 35, 100, 128-30 Zucca Gialla con la Menta, 264-65
friselle (fresa), 115, 120, 124
Friselle con Pomodoro Crudo, 31, 34, 35-36 cabbage. See Savoy cabbage
My Family's Everyday Bread, 23, 119, 120, 121-26, Cabernet Franc grape, 366
128, 131 Cabernet Sauvignon, 213, 218, 224, 227
Pane Calabrese, 23, 119, 120, 121-26, 128, 131 Cabernet Sauvignon grape, 366
panetta, 120, 123, 124 Caciocavallo cheese, 112, 154
pitta, 114-15 Baked Zucchini Layered with Tomato, Mozzarella,
Quick Friselle Variation, 35, 130 and Parmigiano-Reggiano, 250-51
twice-baked. See frisella; rusk Caciocavallo Silano, 148
wheat for, 115-16 Parmigiana di Zucchine, 250-51
breadcrumbs, 114 cake
Baked Fresh Anchovies with Breadcrumbs, 165-66 Rosangela’s Flourless Walnut Cake, 341-42
Baked Lamb Shoulder with Artichokes, Peas, and Torta di Noci, 341-42
Breadcrumbs, 195, 227-29 Calabrese grape, 366
Baked Stuffed Sardines, 166 Calabria, 1-7
Braciole di Pesce Spada alla Griglia, 99, 127, 172-73 dishes of, 1-3
Cavatieddi con Pomodori Gratinati al Forno, 57-58 emigration from, 7, 10
dry, fine, making, 127 fishing in, 174, 179-80
fresh, making, 127 foraging in, 256-58
Grilled Swordfish Rolls with Breadcrumb Stuffing, fruits of, 343-44
99, 127, 172-73 history of, 8-10
My Mother's Pork Meatballs in Tomato Sauce, 53, life in, 4-7
77, 195, 209-10 places to stay, eat, and visit in, 371-73
Pasta “Gnocchi” with Roasted Tomatoes and present-day, 10
Breadcrumbs, 57-58 seafood in, 157, 159-60
Polpette alla Verbicarese, 53, 77, 195, 209-10 war years in, 6-7
Potatoes Layered with Artichokes and Calabrian Rusks, 35, 100, 128-30
Breadcrumbs, 127, 235, 259, 260, 261 Quick Friselle Variation, 35, 130
Sarde Ripiene, 166 Calabrian Rusks with Fresh Tomato and Garlic
Struncatura con Acciughe e Mollica, 68-70, 127 Topping, 31, 34, 35-36
Tiella d'Agnello, 195, 227-29 Calabrian Rusks with Olive Oil, Oregano, and Garlic,
Toasted Fresh Breadcrumbs, 57, 59, 69, 71 36
Tortiera d'Alici, 165-66 Calabrian Sweet Paprika, 271, 293, 304-5
Tortiera di Patate e Carciofi, 127, 235, 259, 260, 261 Calabrian Sweet Pepper Fritters, 37-38, 189
uses for, 127 Calabrian wines, 361-67
INDEX 377
Calabrian wines (continued) cavatieddi, 49
from Cird DOC, xvi shaping, 57-58
DOC (denominazione di origine contollata) status, Cavatieddi con Pomodori Gratinati al Forno, 57-58
362, 364, 366-67 caviale, 42
grape varieties and, 364 caviale dei poveri, xiv, 42-43, 159
IGT (indicazione geografica tipica) status, 362, caviar
INDEX
Braised Chicken with Eggplant, Tomatoes, and cod
Pancetta, 220-21 air-dried, xviii, 160, 186
Chicken Soup with Ricotta Dumplings, 92, 96 salt. See salt cod
Pollo alla Calabrese, 193, 195, 218-19 conchiglie
Pollo con Melanzane, 220-21 in Large Ravioli with Fresh Ricotta and
Polpette di Ricotta in Brodo, 92, 96 Soppressata, 81
chick peas in Raviolini Calabresi, 81
Creamy Chick Pea Soup with Shrimp and Anise Coniglio con Peperoni, 17, 194, 222-23, 235
Seed, 103, 104, 105 variation with sun-dried sweet peppers, 223
Fresh Ribbon Pasta with Chick Peas, 52, 63-65 Conserva di Peperoni, 222, 271, 301-2
Lagani e Ceci, 52, 63-65 Conserva di Pomodori, 83, 86, 271, 298, 299-300
Vellutata di Ceci con Gamberi, 103, 104, 105 Contesa “Shirin,” 319
a
chicory, harvesting, 256-57 Contini “Inu,” 135
Chinon, 107 Conti Zecca “Nero,” 131
Chinule, 189, 319-21 Cooked Red Onion Salad with Oregano, 235,
Chinulille, 322-23 238-39
chinulille, 312 roasted-onion variation, 239
chocolate cookies
Chinule, 189, 319-21 Honey Cookies Filled with Almonds, Cocoa, and
Chocolate Filling, 356, 357 Anisette, 326-28
Chocolate Sauce, 352 Mostaccioli con Mandorle, 326-28
Dark Chocolate Ice Cream with Hot Red Pepper, coppa
348, 356 Large Ravioli with Fresh Ricotta and Soppressata,
Gelato al Cioccolato con Peperoncino, 348, 356 52, 80-81
Honey Cookies Filled with Almonds, Cocoa, and Raviolini Calabresi, 52, 80-81
Anisette, 326-28 Corigliano Calabro, xiv—xv
Mostaccioli con Mandorle, 326-28 cornmeal. See also polenta
Pizzo's Famous Ice Cream Truffle, 354, 355-58, about, 16
Soo Cornmeal Flatbread Cooked on a Cabbage Leaf,
Semifreddo al Torrone, 351-52 140-41
Semifreddo with Almond Nougat and Bittersweet Pitta Mijina, 140-41
Chocolate Sauce, 351-52 Polenta con Fagioli e Salsiccia, 110-11, 111
Sweet Christmas Ravioli with Chestnut and Polenta with Beans and Sausage, 110-11, 111
Chocolate Filling, 189, 319-21 Cornmeal Flatbread Cooked on a Cabbage Leaf,
Tartufo al Modo di Pizzo, 354, 355-58, 359 140-41
Chocolate Sauce, 352 Cosenza, xili-xv, 62
Christmas desserts, 315 COS “Pithos," 137
Christmas Eve meal, 188-89 Costa Viola, xviii
menu for, 189 Cétes du Rh6ne, 71, 107
ciambelline alla calabrese, 312 covatelli crotonesi, 49
Ciambotta, 244-45 Cracked Green Olives with Fennel and Hot Pepper,
ciccioli, 208 24-26
Cicirata, 318 cranberry beans
cicirata, 313 in Fresh Ribbon Pasta with Chick Peas, 65
cicoria, harvesting, 256-57 in Lagani e Ceci, 65
Cird DOC, xvi Polenta con Fagioli e Salsiccia, 110-11, 111
citron, 329-31 Polenta with Beans and Sausage, 110-11, 111
Citron Coast, xiii-xiv Riso con Fagioli, 109
Civita, xiv Spicy Calabrian Rice with Tomato and Borlotti
Clelia Romano “Colli di Lapio,” 29 Beans, 53, 109
INDEX 379
cream Chinulille, 322-23
Gelato alla Liquirizia, 349 Chocolate Sauce, 352
Gelato di Ricotta Stregata, 345, 346 for Christmas, 315
Hazelnut Ice Cream, 356-57 Cicirata, 318
Homemade Ricotta, 31, 75, 96, 144-45, 146, 147, Fried Ridged Pastry with Warm Honey Glaze, 189,
151, 246, 322, 345 316-18
Pizzo's Famous Ice Cream Truffle, 354, 355-58, Green Tomato Jam Tart with Ricotta Ice Cream,
359 346-47
Pure Licorice Ice Cream, 349 Grispelle, 235, 324-25
Ricotta Fresca, 31, 75, 96, 144-45, 146, 147, 151, Honey Cookies Filled with Almonds, Cocoa, and
246, 322, 345 Anisette, 326-28
Ricotta Ice Cream with Strega, 345, 346 Mostaccioli con Mandorle, 326-28
Semifreddo al Torrone, 351-52 “Peaches” with Pastry Cream, 333, 334-35
Semifreddo with Almond Nougat and Bittersweet Pesche con Crema, 333, 334-35
Chocolate Sauce, 351-52 Pitta ‘mpigliata, 338-40
Tartufo al Modo di Pizzo, 354, 355-58, 359 Rolled Pastry Rosettes with Walnuts, Raisins, and
crespino, harvesting, 256-57 Cinnamon, 338-40
Crisera “Nerone di Calabria,” 82 Rosangela’s Flourless Walnut Cake, 341-42
Crisp-Fried Potatoes and Sweet Peppers, 262-63 Semifreddo al Torrone, 351-52
Crispy Eggplant Meatballs, 31, 32-33 Semifreddo with Almond Nougat and Bittersweet
variation with tomato sauce, 33 Chocolate Sauce, 351-52
crocette, 312 Sweet Christmas Ravioli with Chestnut and
Crostata con Marmellata di Pomodori Verdi e Gelato Chocolate Filling, 189, 319-21
di Ricotta Stregata, 346-47 Sweet Ravioli with Ricotta and Candied Orange,
Crostini di Pesce, 39-40 322-23
Crostini with Bottarga Butter, 40, 41, 189 Torta di Noci, 341-42
Crotone, xv—xvi, 62 Warm Christmas Doughnuts, 235, 324-25
Crucoli, xvi Diamante, xiii—-xiv
cuddure, 313 Diamond Crystal kosher salt, 17
cudduredda, 120, 121 Di Giovanna Grecanico, 165
shaping, 123-24, 124, 129 dill
cuddurieddi, 313 Pitta con Verdura, 131-32, 133, 134
Cundari torrone, 353 Stuffed Pizza with Chard and Dill, 131-32, 133,
cured meats. See salumi 134
cuzzupe, 117, 313 DOC (denominazione di origine controllata) status,
362, 364, 366-67
Dark Chocolate Ice Cream with Hot Red Pepper, 348, Dolcetto, 209
356 dolci. See desserts; ice cream
De Cecco pasta, 47, 69, 85 Donnafugata “Ben Ryé,” 316
Delverde pasta, 85 Donnici wines, 367
denominazione di origine controllata (DOC) status, DOP Lametia, xvi
362, 364, 366-67 DOP (denominazione di origine protetta) status
denominazione di origine protetta (DOP) status for cheese, 148
for cheese, 148 for extra virgin olive oil, 15
for extra virgin olive oil, 15 doughnuts
desserts, 311-59. See also ice cream Grispelle, 235, 324-25
about, 311-14 Warm Christmas Doughnuts, 235, 324-25
Cannariculi, 189, 316-18 dried figs, 336-37,
337
Chiacchiere, 318 dried tree fruits, 270-71
Chinule, 189, 319-21 Dromésat, 60-61
380 INDEX
dromésat, 49, 50, 62 Parmigiana di Melanzane, 234, 252-53
Dry-Cured Black Olives with Hot Red Pepper and Pickled Eggplant Preserved in Oil with Hot
Fennel, 27-28, 304 Peppers, Wild Fennel, and Garlic, 23, 216,
dry-cured olive(s) 281-82
Cauliflower Salad, 71, 110, 189, 235, 240 Pollo con Melanzane, 220-21
Dry-Cured Black Olives with Hot Red Pepper and Polpette di Melanzane, 31, 32-33
Fennel, 27-28, 304 Southern Italy's Summer Vegetable Stew, 244-45
dry-curing, 27, 28 sun-drying, 292
Favas and Olives, 28, 29 Eggplant Parmigiana with Fresh Ricotta, 234,
Fave Arrappate, 28, 29 252-53
freezing, 27 Eggplant Salad with Garlic, Mint, and Hot Peppers,
Insalata di Cavolfiore, 71, 110, 189, 235, 240 235, 236, 237
Olive Nere Secche con Peperoncino, 27-28, 304 electric oven for baking bread, 125
seasoning, 28 European elderberry, harvesting, 258
dumplings extra virgin olive oil, 14-15
Chicken Soup with Ricotta Dumplings, 92, 96
Polpette di Ricotta in Brodo, 92, 96 Fattoria La Valentina “Binomio," 227
Fattoria San Francesco “Ronco dei Quattroventi,” 32
egg(s) Fattoria San Francesco wines, 367
about, 116-17 fava beans, 98
Frittata di Ricotta, 151-52 Favas and Olives, 28, 29
Frittata with Fresh Ricotta, 151-52 Fave Arrappate, 28, 29
Gelato alla Liquirizia, 349 Minestra di Fave e Cipolle, 97-98
Hazelnut Ice Cream, 356-57 Thick Fava Bean and Spring Onion Stew, 97-98
Lasagne, Calabrian Style, 77-79, 116 Favas and Olives, 28, 29
“Peaches” with Pastry Cream, 333, 334-35 Fave Arrappate, 28, 29
Pesche con Crema, 333, 334-35 fedelini, 52
Pizzo's Famous Ice Cream Truffle, 354, 355-58, 359 fennel, wild, 215-16, 257. See also wild fennel seed
Pure Licorice Ice Cream, 349 Festival del Peperoncino, xiii
Rosangela's Flourless Walnut Cake, 341-42 Feudi di San Gregorio Fiano di Avellino, 187
Sagne Chine, 77-79, 116 Feudi di San Gregorio “Privilegio,” 324
Scrambled Eggs with Sweet Peppers, 155 Fiano di Avellino, 177
Semifreddo al Torrone, 351-52 fichi d'India, 343-44
Semifreddo with Almond Nougat and Bittersweet figs
Chocolate Sauce, 351-52 in Crostata con Marmellata di Pomodori Verdi e
Tartufo al Modo di Pizzo, 354, 355-58, 359 Gelato di Ricotta Stregata, 346-47
Torta di Noci, 341-42 dried, 336-37, 337
Uova Strapazzate con Peperoni, 155 Fresh Fig Jam, 271, 276, 277-78, 346
eggplant in Green Tomato Jam Tart with Ricotta Ice Cream,
about, 234 346-47
Braised Chicken with Eggplant, Tomatoes, and Marmellata di Fichi, 271, 276, 277-78, 346
Pancetta, 220-21 filatieddi, 52
Ciambotta, 244-45 filei,
49, 85
Crispy Eggplant Meatballs, 31, 32-33 filej,
49, 85
Eggplant Parmigiana with Fresh Ricotta, 234, filone, 120, 123
252-53 shaping, 123, 124
Eggplant Salad with Garlic, Mint, and Hot Peppers, finocchio selvatico. See wild fennel; wild fennel seed
235, 236) 237 fish. See anchovies; salt cod; sardines; seafood;
Melanazane Sott'Olio, 23, 216, 281-82 swordfish; tuna
Melanzane all'Insalata, 235, 236, 237 fishing, 159
INDEX 381
flatbread. See pitta; pizza fusilli, xvii, 49, 50, 85
flour, 14 shaping, 85, 86, 87
foraging, 256-58 Fusilli Calabrese con Sugo di Capra, 85-87
fragaglia, 22 Il Gaglioppo e i Suoi Fratelli: I Vitigni Autoctoni
fragoline, harvesting, 257 Calabresi, 364
Fragolino, 307
freezing Gaglioppo grape, 365, 367
cured green olives, 24 garbanzo beans. See chick peas
pizza dough, 135 gardens, 242-43
ripe olives, 27 garlic
fresa, 115. Seefriselle Melanazane Sott'Olio, 23, 216, 281-82
Fresh Fig Jam, 271, 276, 277-78, 346 Pickled Eggplant Preserved in Oil with Hot
Fresh Homemade Fennel Sausage Calabrian Style, 75, Peppers, Wild Fennel, and Garlic, 23, 216,
90, 101, 195, 211, 212, 213-15, 217, 252 281-82
Fresh “Knitting Needle” Pasta with Goat Sauce, preserving under oil, 280
85-87 Zucchine Sott'Olio, 40, 286-87
Fresh Ribbon Pasta with Chick Peas, 52, 63-65 Zucchini Preserved in Oil with Hot Peppers,
variation with cranberry beans, 65 Garlic, and Mint, 40, 286-87
Fresh Tuna Pizzo Style with Wine Vinegar, Garlic, gelatina, 207
and Mint, 177-78 Gelato al Cioccolato con Peperoncino, 348, 356
Fresh Tuna Preserved Under Oil, 23, 40, 288 Gelato alla Liquirizia, 349
Fried Cauliflower, 23, 266 Gelato di Ricotta Stregata, 345, 346
Fried Fresh Anchovies, 164 Gerace, xviii
Fried Pizza with a Tomato Topping, 142-43 gnocchi, 49, 50
Fried Ridged Pastry with Warm Honey Glaze, 189, goat
316-18 about, 192-93
frisedde. Seefriselle Capretto Arrostito con Patate, 224-26, 246
Friselle, 35, 100, 128-30 Fresh “Knitting Needle” Pasta with Goat Sauce,
Quick Friselle Variation, 35, 130 85-87
friselle, 22, 115, 120, 124 Fusilli Calabrese con Sugo di Capra, 85-87
shaping, 120, 128, 129 Roast Baby Goat with Potatoes, 224-26, 246
stretching, 129 goat cheese
Friselle con Pomodoro Crudo, 31, 34, 35-36 Pizza con Zucchine e Fiori di Zucchine, 137, 138,
frittatas, 116 139
frittelle, 21 Pizza with Grilled Zucchini and Stuffed Zucchini
fritters, 21 Blossoms, 137, 138, 139
Anchovy-Stuffed Peppers, 38 grain alcohol
Calabrian Sweet Pepper Fritters, 37-38, 189 Fragolino, 307
Cannariculi, 189, 316-18 Limoncello, 307
Fried Ridged Pastry with Warm Honey Glaze, 189, Liquore al Mandarino, 306-7
316-18 Mandarin Orange Liqueur, 306-7
Grispelle, 235, 324-25 Rosolio, 307
Pipi ‘'Mpajanati, 37-38, 189 grecanico, xviii
sweet, 312, 313 Greco bianco grape, 364-65, 367
Warm Christmas Doughnuts, 235, 324-25 Greco di Bianco grape, 365
frittoli, 208 Greco di Bianco wines, 367
fruits. See also specific fruits Greco nero grape, 366
about, 343-44 green olives
dried, 270-71 Cracked Green Olives with Fennel and Hot Pepper,
Funghi Sott'Olio, 28, 283, 285 24-26
INDEX
cured, freezing, 24 Homemade Sweet Pepper Paste, 222, 271, 301-2
curing, 24, 25-26 Homemade Tomato Paste, 83, 86, 271, 298, 299-300
fresh, choosing, 25 honey
Olive Verde Schiacciate, 24-26 Cannariculi, 189, 316-18
Pesce Spada alla Ghiotta, 69, 103, 160, 173, 175-76, Chiacchiere, 318
189 Cicirata, 318
Swordfish "Glutton’s Style” with Tomato, Capers, Fried Ridged Pastry with Warm Honey Glaze, 189,
and Olives, 69, 103, 160, 173, 175-76, 189 316-18
green onions. See scallions Honey Cookies Filled with Almonds, Cocoa, and
greens, wild, 256-57 Anisette, 326-28
green tomatoes Mostaccioli con Mandorle, 326-28
Crostata con Marmellata di Pomodori Verdi e Pitta ‘mpigliata, 338-40
Gelato di Ricotta Stregata, 346-47 Rolled Pastry Rosettes with Walnuts, Raisins, and
Green Tomatoes Preserved in Oil, 23, 279-80 Cinnamon, 338-40
Green Tomato Jam, 271, 275, 346 Honey Cookies Filled with Almonds, Cocoa, and
Green Tomato Jam Tart with Ricotta Ice Cream, Anisette, 326-28
346-47 hotels, Calabrian, 371
Marmellata di Pomodori Verdi, 271, 275, 346 hot Italian sausage
Pomodori Verdi Sott'Olio, 23, 279-80 Polenta con Fagioli e Salsiccia, 110-11, 111
Green Tomatoes Preserved in Oil, 23, 279-80 Polenta with Beans and Sausage, 110-11, 111
Green Tomato Jam, 271, 275, 346 Rigatoni all Pastora, 75-76
Green Tomato Jam Tart with Ricotta Ice Cream, Shepherd’s-Style Rigatoni with Ricotta and
346-47 Sausage, 75-76
Grenache, 39, 60, 99, 140, 204 hot red peppers
Grilled Swordfish Rolls with Breadcrumb Stuffing, about, 16-17
99, 127, 172-73 Cracked Green Olives with Fennel and Hot Pepper,
Grispelle, 235, 324-25 24-26
grispelle, 312-13 Dark Chocolate Ice Cream with Hot Red Pepper,
Ground Hot Red Pepper, 271, 303, 348 348, 356
guanciale, 199, 201 Dry-Cured Black Olives with Hot Red Pepper and
about, 207, 208 Fennel, 27-28, 304
Pasta e Patate “Santo Janni," 10, 48, 66-67 Eggplant Salad with Garlic, Mint, and Hot Peppers,
Spaghetti with a Creamy Potato and Pancetta 235, 236, 237
Sauce, 10, 48, 66-67 Funghi Sott'Olio, 28, 283, 285
Guardavalle grape, 365 Gelato al Cioccolato con Peperoncino, 348, 356
Guarnaccia bianca grape, 365 Ground Hot Red Pepper, 271, 303, 348
Melanazane Sott'Olio, 23, 216, 281-82
Handmade Arbéresh “Couscous” with Tomato Sauce, Melanzane all'Insalata, 235, 236, 237
60-61 Mushrooms Preserved in Oil with Hot Peppers,
hazelnut(s) Wild Fennel, and Garlic, 28, 283, 285
Hazelnut Ice Cream, 356-57 Olive Nere Secche con Peperoncino, 27-28, 304
Pizzo's Famous Ice Cream Truffle, 354, 355-58, Olive Verde Schiacciate, 24-26
ore) Peperoncino, 271, 303, 348
Tartufo al Modo di Pizzo, 354, 355-58, 359 Pickled Eggplant Preserved in Oil with Hot
Hazelnut Ice Cream, 356-57 Peppers, Wild Fennel, and Garlic, 23, 216,
Home-Canned Peeled Tomatoes, 53, 64, 71, 83, 86, 281-82
88, 107, 110, 184, 205, 222, 271, 296-97 Spaghetti Aglio, Olio e Peperoncino in Tre Modi,
Homemade Fresh Pasta, 44, 59, 64, 77, 80, 82, 86, 88 55-56
Homemade Ricotta, 31, 75, 96, 144-45, 146, 147, 151, Spaghetti with Garlic, Olive Oil, and Hot Red
246, 322, 345 Pepper, Three Ways, 55-56
INDEX 383
hot red peppers (continued) Baked Lamb Shoulder with Artichokes, Peas, and
Zucchine Sott'Olio, 40, 286-87 Breadcrumbs, 195, 227-29
Zucchini Preserved in Oil with Hot Peppers, “Bean Pod" Pasta with Spicy Lamb Ragu, 82-84
Garlic, and Mint, 40, 286-87 in Capretto Arrostito con Patate, 224-26, 246
Potato Gnocchi, Calabrian Style, 90-91
ice cream Ragu, 82-84, 90
about, 314 Rasckatieddi di Patate, 90-91
Crostata con Marmellata di Pomodori Verdi e in Roast Baby Goat with Potatoes, 224-26, 246
Gelato di Ricotta Stregata, 346-47 Scorze di Fagiolini con Ragu d'Agnello, 82-84
Dark Chocolate Ice Cream with Hot Red Pepper, Tiella d'Agnello, 195, 227-29
348, 356 Lamezia
Gelato al Cioccolato con Peperoncino, 348, 356 olive oil from, 15
Gelato alla Liquirizia, 349 wines from, 367
Gelato di Ricotta Stregata, 345, 346 lampascioni, harvesting, 258
Green Tomato Jam Tart with Ricotta Ice Cream, lardo, 199, 201, 207
346-47 Large Pasta Tubes with Swordfish and Cherry
Hazelnut Ice Cream, 356-57 Tomatoes, 73-74
Pizzo's Famous Ice Cream Truffle, 354, 355-58, variation with anchovies, 74
Bow) Large Ravioli with Fresh Ricotta and Soppressata, 52,
Pure Licorice Ice Cream, 349 80-81
Ricotta Ice Cream with Strega, 345, 346 Lasagne, Calabrian Style, 77-79, 116
Tartufo al Modo di Pizzo, 354, 355-58, 359 late-harvest Zinfandel, 326
I Favatti “Cretarossa," 204 lemons
IGT (indicazione geografica tipica) status, 364 Limoncello, 307
ingredients. See also specific ingredients lestopitta, xviii
key, 11-19 Librandi, Nicodemo, 362, 363
sources for, 368-70 Librandi wines, 362, 363, 364, 367
Insalata di Baccala con Patate, 187, 189 “Duca San Felice,” 99
Insalata di Cavolfiore, 71, 110, 189, 235, 240 "Gravello,” 57, 364
Insalata di Cipolla Rossa, 235, 238-39 "Le Passule,” 322
roasted-onion variation, 239 “Magno Megonio,” 101
Insalata di Polipo, 71, 161, 162, 163 licorice
Ippolito 1845 wines, 367 about, 350
“Liber Pater,” 107 Gelato alla Liquirizia, 349
Isola di Dino, xiii Pure Licorice Ice Cream, 349
Limoncello, 307
jam liqueurs. See also anisette; maraschino liqueur;
Fresh Fig Jam, 271, 276, 277-78, 346 Strega liqueur
Green Tomato Jam, 271, 275, 346 Fragolino, 307
Marmellata di Fichi, 271, 276, 277-78, 346 Limoncello, 307
Marmellata di Pomodori Verdi, 271, 275, 346 Liquore al Mandarino, 306-7
John Dory, 158 Mandarin Orange Liqueur, 306-7
Rosolio, 307
lagane larghe, 49 sources for, 368
lagani, 52 Liquore al Mandarino, 306-7
Lagani e Ceci, 52, 63-65 Li Veli Pezzo Morgana, 230
variation with cranberry beans, 65 Locatelli brand pecorino cheese, 16
laganieddi, 51, 52 loquats,
344, 344
lamb Luigi Vivacqua wines, 367
about, 192-93 Ciro Rosso Riserva, 69
INDEX
maccheroni, shaping, 89 for Christmas Eve meal, 189
maccheroni alferretto, 49, 85 for seafood antipasti, 40
maccheroni larghi, 49, 51 for summer antipasti, 31
Maccheroni Larghi con Sugo di Costate di Maiale, for winter antipasti, 28
88-89 Merlot, 80, 101, 227
Madeira, 341 Merlot grape, 366
madia, 119 Michele Cald “Mjere,” 39
Magliocco dolce grape, 364, 365-66, 367 milk
Maiera, xiii Gelato alla Liquirizia, 349
Malvasia bianca grape, 365 Hazelnut Ice Cream, 356-57
Mammola, xviii Homemade Ricotta, 31, 75, 96, 144-45, 146, 147,
mandarin orange(s) 151, 246, 322, 345
Liquore al Mandarino, 306-7 “Peaches” with Pastry Cream, 333, 334-35
Mandarin Orange Liqueur, 306-7 Pesche con Crema, 333, 334-35
Mantonico bianco grape, 365 Pizzo's Famous Ice Cream Truffle, 354, 355-58,
maraschino liqueur Sog
“Peaches” with Pastry Cream, 333, 334-35 Pure Licorice Ice Cream, 349
Pesche con Crema, 333, 334-35 Ricotta Fresca, 31, 75, 96, 144-45, 146, 147, 151,
Marchesato, xv—xvi 246, 322, 345
Marco De Bartoli wines Tartufo al Modo di Pizzo, 354, 355-58, 359
Grappoli del Grillo, 175 minestra, 94
“Vecchio Samperi,” 341 mint
Marinated Fresh Anchovies with Red Onion and Butternut Squash Marinated with Garlic and
Parsley, 30-31, 31, 164 Mint, 264-65
Marinated Octopus Salad with Olive Oil and Lemon, Eggplant Salad with Garlic, Mint, and Hot Peppers,
71, 161, 162, 163 235, 236, 237
Marisa Cuomo Furore, 220 Fresh Tuna Pizzo Style with Wine Vinegar, Garlic,
Marmellata di Fichi, 271, 276, 277-78, 346 and Mint, 177-78
Marmellata di Pomodori Verdi, 271, 275, 346 in Melanazane Sott'Olio, 23, 216, 281-82
martorana, xix Melanzane all'Insalata, 235, 236, 237
Masseria Felicia “Ariapetrina,” 209 in Pickled Eggplant Preserved in Oil with Hot
Mastroberardino wines Peppers, Wild Fennel, and Garlic, 23, 216,
Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Rosso, 55 281-82
“Radici,” 218 Tonno alla Menta, 177-78
meat, 191-231. See also specific types of meat Zucca Gialla con la Menta, 264-65
about, 191-94 Zucchine Sott'Olio, 40, 286-87
cured, xv, 22, 199, 200-202, 203 Zucchini Preserved in Oil with Hot Peppers,
sources for, 368-69 Garlic, and Mint, 40, 286-87
meatballs Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, 82, 197
Crispy Eggplant Meatballs, 31, 32-33 Morano Calabro, xiv
My Mother's Pork Meatballs in Tomato Sauce, 53, Moretti Bramata Bianca cornmeal, 16, 110
77, 195, 209-10 mormora, 158
Polpette alla Verbicarese, 53, 77, 195, 209-10 morseddu, 194
Polpette di Melanzane, 31, 32-33 Moscato bianco grape, 365
meat broth, 93 mostaccioli, xvii, 310, 312
Melanazane Sott'Olio, 23, 216, 281-82 Mostaccioli con Mandorle, 326-28
Melanzane all'Insalata, 235, 236, 237 mozzarella
Melissa wines, 367 Baked Zucchini Layered with Tomato, Mozzarella,
menus and Parmigiano-Reggiano, 250-51
for il cenone, 189 Lasagne, Calabrian Style, 77-79, 116
INDEX 385
mozzarella (continued) Odoardi wines
Parmigiana di Zucchine, 250-51 “Polpicello,” 213
Pizza con Zucchine e Fiori di Zucchine, 137, 138, “Vigna Garrone,” 85
139 olive(s). See dry-cured olive(s); green olives; ripe
Pizza with Grilled Zucchini and Stuffed Zucchini olives
Blossoms, 137, 138, 139 olive country, xiv—xv
Sagne Chine, 77-79, 116 Olive Nere Secche con Peperoncino, 27-28, 304
mparrettati, 49 olive oil, xvi
mulberries, 343 about, 14-15
mulled wine, 319 DOP status for, 15
Museo Archeologico Nazionale, xviii storing, 15
mushrooms Olive Verde Schiacciate, 24-26
about, 235 onions. See red onions; scallions
cleaning, 254-55 oranges
Funghi con Pomodoro, 254-55 Candied Orange Peel, 308-9, 322, 345
Funghi Sott'Olio, 28, 283, 285 Chinulille, 322-23
harvesting, 257-58 Liquore al Mandarino, 306-7
Mushrooms Preserved in Oil with Hot Peppers, Mandarin Orange Liqueur, 306-7
Wild Fennel, and Garlic, 28, 283, 285 Scorze d'Arance Candite, 308-9, 322, 345
Sautéed Mushrooms with Garlic and Tomatoes, Sweet Ravioli with Ricotta and Candied Orange,
254-55 322-23
Mushrooms Preserved in Oil with Hot Peppers, Wild oregano
Fennel, and Garlic, 28, 283, 285 dried, 13-14
mussels drying, 13-14
Risotto con le Cozze, 106, 107-8, 161 harvesting, 258
Risotto with Fresh Mussels, 106, 107-8, 161 storing, 14
My Family's Everyday Bread, 23, 119, 120, 121-26, ortiche, harvesting, 256-57
TO Geeted
whole wheat variation, 125, 128 paccheri
My Mother's Pork Meatballs in Tomato Sauce, 53, 77, Large Pasta Tubes with Swordfish and Cherry
195, 209-10 Tomatoes, 73-74
Paccheri con Pesce Spada e Pomodori Pacchini,
‘nduja, xvii, 22, 199, 201, 202, 203, 268 73-74
Nebbiolo, 69 Paccheri con Pesce Spada e Pomodori Pacchini,
Nebbiolo Langhe, 103 73-74
nectarines, yellow, 343 variation with anchovies, 74
neonate, 22, 43, 159 Palari “Rosso del Soprano,” 71
Nerello grape, 366 pancetta, 201, 203
Nerello mascalese grape, 367 Braised Cabbage with Pancetta and Black Pepper ,
386 INDEX
panetta, 120, 123, 124 Potato Gnocchi, Calabrian Style, 90-91
shaping, 123, 124 Quick Tomato Sauce, 33, 53-54, 60, 80, 90, 142,
Pan-Fried Sausage with Broccoli Rabe, 109, 217 209, 250, 252
panicelli, 312, 330-31 Rasckatieddi di Patate, go-91
Paola, xiv Raviolini Calabresi, 52, 80-81
Paolo Petrilli “Agramante,” 140 Rigatoni all Pastora, 75-76
Il Parco Nazionale del Pollino, xiv Sagne Chine, 77-79, 116
Parmigiana di Melanzane, 234, 252-53 saucing, 47-48
Parmigiana di Zucchine, 250-51 Scorze di Fagiolini con Ragt d'Agnello, 82-84
Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese shapes of, 48-49, 50-51, 52
Baked Zucchini Layered with Tomato, Mozzarella, Shepherd's-Style Rigatoni with Ricotta and
and Parmigiano-Reggiano, 250-51 Sausage, 75-76
Eggplant Parmigiana with Fresh Ricotta, 234, sources for pasta and pasta making supplies,
252-53 369
Parmigiana di Melanzane, 234, 252-53 Spaghetti Aglio, Olio e Peperoncino in Tre Modi,
Parmigiana di Zucchine, 250-51 55-56
Pasetti Zarache, 167 Spaghetti col Sugo di Baccala, 71-72, 189
La Pasquetta, 79 Spaghetti with a Creamy Potato and Pancetta
passito, 316 Sauce, 10, 48, 66-67
Passito di Pantelleria, 322 Spaghetti with Garlic, Olive Oil, and Hot Red
Passopisciaro Passopisciaro, 172 Pepper, Three Ways, 55-56
pasta, 44, 45-91 Spaghetti with Salt Cod and a Spicy Tomato Sauce,
“Bean Pod" Pasta with Spicy Lamb Ragu, 82-84 71-72, 189
Cavatieddi con Pomodori Gratinati al Forno, 57-58 Struncatura con Acciughe e Mollica, 68-70, 127
commercially dried, 46, 47 Sugo di Pomodoro, 33, 53-54, 60, 80, 90, 142, 209,
cooking, 47 250, 252
as course, 47 wheat for, 115-16
Dromésat, 60-61 Whole-Wheat Linguine with Anchovies and
Fresh "Knitting Needle” Pasta with Goat Sauce, Breadcrumbs, 68-70, 127
85-87 Wide Noodles with Pork Ribs and Tomato,
Fresh Ribbon Pasta with Chick Peas, 52, 63-65 88-89
Fusilli Calabrese con Sugo di Capra, 85-87 pasta con mollica, 188
Handmade Arbéresh “Couscous” with Tomato Pasta e Patate “Santo Janni,” 10, 48, 66-67
Sauce, 60-61 pasta filata cheeses, 148, 149
homemade, 46 Pasta “Gnocchi” with Roasted Tomatoes and
Homemade Fresh Pasta, 44, 59, 64, 77, 80, 82, 86, Breadcrumbs, 57-58
88 pasta grattata, 49
Lagani e Ceci, 52, 63-65 pastry
Large Pasta Tubes with Swordfish and Cherry Cannariculi, 189, 316-18
Tomatoes, 73-74 Fried Ridged Pastry with Warm Honey Glaze, 189,
Large Ravioli with Fresh Ricotta and Soppressata, 316-18
52, 80-81 Pitta ‘mpigliata, 338-40
Lasagne, Calabrian Style, 77-79, 116 Rolled Pastry Rosettes with Walnuts, Raisins, and
Maccheroni Larghi con Sugo di Costate di Maiale, Cinnamon, 338-40
88-89 Patate Fritte con Peperoni, 262-63
Paccheri con Pesce Spada e Pomodori Pacchini, Paternoster "Don Anselmo,” 224
73-74 pea(s)
Pasta e Patate “Santo Janni,” 10, 48, 66-67 Baked Lamb Shoulder with Artichokes, Peas, and
Pasta “Gnocchi” with Roasted Tomatoes and Breadcrumbs, 195, 227-29
Breadcrumbs, 57-58 Lasagne, Calabrian Style, 77-79, 116
INDEX 387
pea(s) (continued) pignolata, xix, 313
Sagne Chine, 77-79, 116 Pinot Blanc grape, 365
Tiella d'Agnello, 195, 227-29 Pinot Gris, 155
“Peaches” with Pastry Cream, 333, 334-35 Pinot Noir, 32, 137, 172
pearly razorfish, 158 Pipi 'Mpajanati, 37-38, 189
Pecorello grape, 365 pitta, 114-15
pecorino cheese, 152, 154 Cornmeal Flatbread Cooked on a Cabbage Leaf,
about, 15-16, 117-18 140-41
Baked Fresh Anchovies with Breadcrumbs, 165-66 Pitta Mijina, 140-41
Eggplant Parmigiana with Fresh Ricotta, 234, Pitta con Verdura, 131-32, 133, 134
252-53 pitta di San Martino, xix
Frittata di Ricotta, 151-52 Pitta Mijina, 140-41
Frittata with Fresh Ricotta, 151-52 pitta myina, 208
Lasagne, Calabrian Style, 77-79, 116 Pitta ‘mpigliata, 338-40
Parmigiana di Melanzane, 234, 252-53 pitta ‘mpigliata, 313
Pecorino Crotonese, 148 pitticelle, xiv
Pecorino del Monte Poro, 149 pizza
Potatoes Layered with Artichokes and treezing dough for, 135
Breadcrumbs, 127, 235, 259, 260, 261 Fried Pizza with a Tomato Topping, 142-43
Sagne Chine, 77-79, 116 Pitta con Verdura, 131-32, 133, 134
Tortiera d'Alici, 165-66 Pizza con Tonno e Bottarga di Pizzo, 135-36
Tortiera di Patate e Carciofi, 127, 235, 259, 260, 261 Pizza con Zucchine e Fiori di Zucchine, 137, 138,
peperoncini, 16-17 139
Peperoncino, 271, 303, 348 Pizza Fritta, 142-43
peperoncino, xiii. See also hot red peppers Pizza with Grilled Zucchini and Stuffed Zucchini
Peperoni Fritti con Acciughe, 241 Blossoms, 137, 138, 139
Peperoni Seccati al Sole, 37, 184, 223, 293, 294, 295 Stuffed Pizza with Chard and Dill, 131-32, 133,
Pepe Rosso, 271, 293, 304-5 134
pepe rosso, 17. See also sweet Italian peppers Tuna and Red Onion Pizza with Bottarga, 135-36
peppers. See bell peppers; hot red peppers; sweet white, 135
Italian peppers pizza bianca, 135
Pervini ‘Primo Amore,” 326 Pizza con Tonno e Bottarga di Pizzo, 135-36
pesce. See anchovies; salt cod; sardines; seafood; Pizza con Zucchine e Fiori di Zucchine, 137, 138, 139
swordfish; tuna Pizza Fritta, 142-43
pesce San Pietro, 158 Pizza with Grilled Zucchini and Stuffed Zucchini
Pesce Spada alla Bagnarese, 101, 167, 168, 169 Blossoms, 137, 138, 139
Pesce Spada alla Ghiotta, 69, 103, 160, 173, 175-76, Pizzo, xvii
189 Pizzo's Famous Ice Cream Truffle, 354, 355-58, 359
pesce topo, 158 polenta
Pesche con Crema, 333, 334-35 about, 16, 93-94, 110
pesci aZZurri, 159 Polenta con Fagioli e Salsiccia, 110-11, 111
petrali, xix, 313 Polenta with Beans and Sausage, 110-11, 111
Piana di Sibari, xiv sources for, 369
pickle(s) Pollino wines, 367
Green Tomatoes Preserved in Oil, 23, 279-80 Pollo alla Calabrese, 193, 195, 218-19
Pomodori Verdi Sott'Olio, 23, 279-80 Pollo con Melanzane, 220-21
Pickled Eggplant Preserved in Oil with Hot Peppers, polpette, 21
Wild Fennel, and Garlic, 23, 216, 281-82 Polpette alla Verbicarese, 53, 77, 195, 209-10
Pietracupa Greco di Tufo, 161 Polpette di Melanzane, 31, 32-33
Pietratorcia “Scheria Rosso,” 60 variation with tomato sauce, 33
INDEX
pomodori invernali, 249 Roast Baby Goat with Potatoes, 224-26, 246
Pomodori Pelati, 53, 64, 71, 83, 86, 88, 107, 110, 184, Salt Cod and Potato Salad with Red Onion and
205, 222, 271, 296-97 Capers, 187, 189
Pomodori Verdi Sott'Olio, 23, 279-80 Salt Cod with Sweet Red Peppers and Potatoes,
porcini mushrooms, xv 184-85
pork Southern Italy's Summer Vegetable Stew, 244-45
butchering of pigs and, 206-7 Spaghetti with a Creamy Potato and Pancetta
Fresh Homemade Fennel Sausage Calabrian Style, Sauce, 10, 48, 66-67
75, 90, 101, 195, 211, 212, 213-15, 217, 252 Tortiera di Patate e Carciofi, 127, 235, 259, 260, 261
Lasagne, Calabrian Style, 77-79, 116 Potatoes Layered with Artichokes and Breadcrumbs,
Maccheroni Larghi con Sugo di Costate di Maiale, 127, 235, 259, 260, 261
88-89 Potato Gnocchi, Calabrian Style, 90-91
My Mother's Pork Meatballs in Tomato Sauce, 53, Praia a Mare, xiii
77, 195, 209-10 preserved foods, 260-309. See also jam; sott’olio
Polpette alla Verbicarese, 53, 77, 195, 209-10 about, 269-72
Sagne Chine, 77-79, 116 preserving schedule for, 272
Salsiccia Calabrese, 75, 90, 101, 195, 211, 212, water-bath processing method for, 273-74
213-15, 217, 252 prickly pears, 343-44
Stuffed Pork Rolls in Tomato Sauce Verbicaro Priorat, 60, 135
Style, 194-95, 196, 197-98 produce. See also specific types of produce
uses of, 207-8 sources for, 369
Vrasciole alla Verbicarese, 194-95, 196, 197-98 prosciutto, 203, 207, 210
Wide Noodles with Pork Ribs and Tomato, Provola, 149
88-89 Prunesta grape, 366
pork fat Pure Licorice Ice Cream, 349
Braciole di Cotenne, 194, 195, 204-5
Pork Skin Rolls Braised in Tomato Sauce, 194, 195, Quick Friselle, 35, 130
204-5 Quick Tomato Sauce, 33, 53-54, 60, 80, 90, 142, 209,
pork skin 250,252
Braciole di Cotenne, 194, 195, 204-5
Pork Skin Rolls Braised in Tomato Sauce, 194, 195, rabbit
204-5 about, 193-94
potatoes Coniglio con Peperoni, 17, 194, 222-23, 235
Baccala alla Verbicarese, 184-85 Spicy Braised Rabbit with Sweet Peppers and
Baked Chicken with Potatoes, Tomatoes, and Hot Oregano, 17, 194, 222-23, 235
Pepper, 193, 195, 218-19 Ragu, 82-84, 90
Capretto Arrostito con Patate, 224-26, 246 raisins
Ciambotta, 244-45 Pitta 'mpigliata, 338-40
Crisp-Fried Potatoes and Sweet Peppers, 262-63 Rolled Pastry Rosettes with Walnuts, Raisins, and
Insalata di Baccala con Patate, 187, 189 Cinnamon, 338-40
Midsummer Soup of Romano Beans, Potatoes, and rasckatieddi, 49
Tomato, 99-100 Rasckatieddi di Patate, go-91
Minestra di Fagliolini Verdi con Pomodoro, 99-100 ravioli
Pasta e Patate “Santo Janni,” 10, 48, 66-67 Chinule, 189, 319-21
Patate Fritte con Peperoni, 262-63 Chinulille, 322-23
Pollo alla Calabrese, 193, 195, 218-19 Large Ravioli with Fresh Ricotta and Soppressata,
Potatoes Layered with Artichokes and 52, 80-81
Breadcrumbs, 127, 235, 259, 260, 261 Raviolini Calabresi, 52, 80-81
Potato Gnocchi, Calabrian Style, 90-91 Sweet Christmas Ravioli with Chestnut and
Rasckatieddi di Patate, 90-91 Chocolate Filling, 189, 319-21
INDEX 389
ravioli (continued) Polpette di Ricotta in Brodo, 92, 96
Sweet Ravioli with Ricotta and Candied Orange, Raviolini Calabresi, 52, 80-81
322-23 ricotta affumicata, 144, 150
Raviolini Calabresi, 52, 80-81 Ricotta Fresca, 31, 75, 96, 144-45, 146, 147, 151,
ravioloni, 52 246, 322, 345
red mullet, 158 Ricotta Ice Cream with Strega, 345, 346
red onions ricotta salata, 150, 154
about, 101 Rigatoni all Pastora, 75-76
Alici Marinate, 30-31, 31, 164 Shepherd’s-Style Rigatoni with Ricotta and
Cooked Red Onion Salad with Oregano, 235, Sausage, 75-76
238-39 Sweet Ravioli with Ricotta and Candied Orange,
Insalata di Baccala con Patate, 187, 189 322-23
Insalata di Cipolla Rossa, 235, 238-39 Zucchine Ripiene con Ricotta, 246-47
Marinated Fresh Anchovies with Red Onion and Ricotta Fresca, 31, 75, 96, 144-45, 146, 147, 151, 246,
Parsley, 30-31, 31, 164 322, 345
Pizza con Tonno e Bottarga di Pizzo, 135-36 Ricotta Ice Cream with Strega, 345, 346
Rita Callipo’s Creamy Red Onion Soup, 10, 101-2 Riesling, 151
Salt Cod and Potato Salad with Red Onion and rigatoni
Capers, 187, 189 Large Pasta Tubes with Swordfish and Cherry
Tuna and Red Onion Pizza with Bottarga, 135-36 Tomatoes, 73-74
Zuppa di Cipolla alla Casa Janca, 10, 101-2 Paccheri con Pesce Spada e Pomodori Pacchini, 73-74
red peppers. See bell peppers; hot red peppers; sweet Rigatoni all Pastora, 75-76
Italian peppers Rioja, 85, 142
Reggio Calabria, xvii-xix riso, 94
Rende, xv risotto
rennet, making, 153, 153 about, 95
restaurants, Calabrian, 371-72 Risotto con le Cozze, 106, 107-8, 161
ricci di donna, 52 Risotto with Fresh Mussels, 106, 107-8, 161
rice Riviera dei Cedri, La, xiii—xiv
about, 94-95 Riviera of the Gods, xvii
Riso con Fagioli, 109 Roast Baby Goat with Potatoes, 224-26, 246
Risotto con le Cozze, 106, 107-8, 161 Roberto Ceraudo wines, 366-67
Risotto with Fresh Mussels, 106, 107-8, 161 “Dattilo,” 77
Spicy Calabrian Rice with Tomato and Borlotti Rolled Pastry Rosettes with Walnuts, Raisins, and
Beans, 53, 109 Cinnamon, 338-40
ricotta, 149-50, 154 Romangia Societa Cooperativa “Lamarina," 103
about, 144-45 Romano beans
Baked Ricotta-Stuffed Zucchini, 246-47 about, 99
Chicken Soup with Ricotta Dumplings, 92, 96 Midsummer Soup of Romano Beans, Potatoes, and
Chinulille, 322-23 Tomato, 99-100
Eggplant Parmigiana with Fresh Ricotta, 234, Minestra di Fagliolini Verdi con Pomodoro, 99-100
252-53 Rosa del Golfo wines
Frittata di Ricotta, 151-52 “Quarantale," 184
Frittata with Fresh Ricotta, 151-52 Salento Rosato, 73
Gelato di Ricotta Stregata, 345, 346 rosamarina, Xiv, 42-43, 43, 159
Homemade Ricotta, 31, 75, 96, 144-45, 146, 147, Rosangela's Flourless Walnut Cake, 341-42
151, 246, 322, 345 ROSCA 7 oul o 5aOdemiod
Large Ravioli with Fresh Ricotta and Soppressata, Rosolio, 307
52, 80-81 Rossano, xv
Parmigiana di Melanzane, 234, 252-53 rusks
390 INDEX
Calabrian Rusks, 35, 100, 128-30 Capers, 187, 189
Calabrian Rusks with Fresh Tomato and Garlic Salt Cod with Sweet Red Peppers and Potatoes,
Topping, 31, 34, 35-36 184-85
Calabrian Rusks with Olive Oil, Oregano, and soaking, 184-85
Garlic, 36 Spaghetti col Sugo di Baccala, 71-72, 189
Friselle, 35, 100, 128-30 Spaghetti with Salt Cod and a Spicy Tomato Sauce,
Friselle con Pomodoro Crudo, 31, 34, 35-36 71-72, 189
Quick Friselle Variation, 35, 130 Salt Cod and Potato Salad with Red Onion and
Rustichella d'Abruzzo pasta, 47, 85 Capers, 187, 189
Salt Cod with Sweet Red Peppers and Potatoes,
Sagne Chine, 77-79, 116 184-85
sagra, 171 Salt-Cured Anchovies, 271, 289-90
St. Emilion Bordeaux, 57 salumi, xv, 22, 199, 200-202, 203
salads Salvatore Moletierri Aglianico “Cinque Querce,” 75
Cauliflower Salad, 71, 110, 189, 235, 240 sambuco
Cooked Red Onion Salad with Oregano, 235, harvesting, 258
238-39 Sancerre, 30
Eggplant Salad with Garlic, Mint, and Hot Peppers, Sangiovese, 77, 213
235, 236, 237 Sangiovese grape, 366
Insalata di Baccala con Patate, 187, 189 sanguinaccio, 206
Insalata di Cavolfiore, 71, 110, 189, 235, 240 San Marzano tomatoes, 12, 234
Insalata di Cipolla Rossa, 235, 238-39 Sant'Anna di Isola Capo Rizzuto wines, 367
Insalata di Polipo, 71, 161, 162, 163 Santa Severina, xvi
Marinated Octopus Salad with Olive Oil and Santa Venere wines, 367
Lemon, 71, 161, 162, 163 Ciro Rosato, 27
Melanzane all'Insalata, 235, 236, 237 San Vito di Luzzi wines, 367
Salt Cod and Potato Salad with Red Onion and sardella, xiv, xvi, 22, 42-43, 43, 159
Capers, 187, 189 Sarde Ripiene, 166
Salmoriglio, 172, 173 sardines
in Braciole di Pesce Spada alla Griglia, 172, 173 in Baked Fresh Anchovies with Breadcrumbs,
in Branzino Sotto Sale, 69, 103, 160, 181, 182, 183 165-66
in Grilled Swordfish Rolls with Breadcrumb Crostini di Pesce, 39-40
Stuffing, 172, 173 fresh, cleaning, 31
in Whole Salt-Baked Sea Bass, 69, 103, 160, 181, newborn (caviale dei poveri), xiv, 42-43, 159
182, 183 Sarde Ripiene, 166
Salsiccia Calabrese, 75, 90, 101, 195, 211, 212, Stuffed Baked Sardines, 166
213-15, 217, 252 in Tortiera d’Alici, 165-66
salsiccia calabrese, 203 Warm Seafood Crostini, 39-40
salt sausage, 210. See also hot Italian sausage; salumi;
about, 17 sweet Italian sausage
Alici Sotto Sale, 271, 289-90 Fresh Homemade Fennel Sausage Calabrian Style,
Branzino Sotto Sale, 69, 103, 160, 181, 182, 183, 189 7519 OM LOUIS zd oo eS nod7 Oo,
Salt-Cured Anchovies, 271, 289-90 Pan-Fried Sausage with Broccoli Rabe, 109, 217
Whole Salt-Baked Sea Bass, 69, 103, 160, 181, 182, Salsiccia Calabrese, 75, 90, 101, 195, 211, 212,
183, 189 213-15, 217, 252
salt cod, xviii sanguinaccio, 206
about, xviii, 18, 160, 186 sources for sausage making supplies, 368
Baccala alla Verbicarese, 184-85 Vruocculi ca' Savuzuizza, 109, 217
Insalata di Baccala con Patate, 187, 189 Sautéed Mushrooms with Garlic and Tomatoes,
Salt Cod and Potato Salad with Red Onion and 254-55
INDEX 391
Sauternes, 324 Semifreddo with Almond Nougat and Bittersweet
Sauvignon Blanc, 25, 164 Chocolate Sauce, 351-52
Sauvignon Blanc grape, 365 Serra San Bruno, xvii
Savoy cabbage sfogliatelle, 312
Braised Cabbage with Pancetta and Black Pepper, Shepherd's-Style Rigatoni with Ricotta and Sausage,
267 75-76
Cavolo Cappuccio con Pepe Nero, 267 shrimp
Cornmeal Flatbread Cooked on a Cabbage Leaf, Creamy Chick Pea Soup with Shrimp and Anise
140-41 Seed, 103, 104, 105
Pitta Mijina, 140-41 Vellutata di Ceci con Gamberi, 103, 104, 105
Savuto wines, 367 shtridhélat, 62
Scalea, xiii La Sibilla Falanghina, 164
scalidde, 313 Sila Mountains, xv
scalille, 313 soffritto, 207
scallions soppressata, 201, 203
Minestra di Fave e Cipolle, 97-98 about, 207, 208
Pitta con Verdura, 131-32, 133, 134 Large Ravioli with Fresh Ricotta and Soppressata,
Stuffed Pizza with Chard and Dill, 131-32, 133, 134 52, 80-81
Thick Fava Bean and Spring Onion Stew, 97-98 Raviolini Calabresi, 52, 80-81
Scavigna wines, 367 Soriano Calabro, xvii
schiaffettoni, 52 sospiri di monaca, xix
scilatelli, 50, 52 sott’olio, 284
Scilla, xviii-xix about, 271, 280
scirobetta, 314 Fresh Tuna Preserved Under Oil, 23, 40, 288
Scorze d'Arance Candite, 308-9, 322, 345 Funghi Sott'Olio, 28, 283, 285
scorze di fagiolini, 51, 52 Green Tomatoes Preserved in Oil, 23, 279-80
shaping, 83 Melanazane Sott'Olio, 23, 216, 281-82
Scorze di Fagiolini con Ragti d'Agnello, 82-84 Mushrooms Preserved in Oil with Hot Peppers,
Scrambled Eggs with Sweet Peppers, 155 Wild Fennel, and Garlic, 28, 283, 285
sea bass Pickled Eggplant Preserved in Oil with Hot Peppers,
Branzino Sotto Sale, 69, 103, 160, 181, 182, 183, 189 Wild Fennel, and Garlic, 23, 216, 281-82
Whole Salt-Baked Sea Bass, 69, 103, 160, 181, 182, Pomodori Verdi Sott'Olio, 23, 279-80
183, 189 Tonno Sott'Olio, 23, 40, 288
seafood, 157, 158, 159-89. See also anchovies; salt cod; Zucchine Sott'Olio, 40, 286-87
sardines; swordfish; tuna Zucchini Preserved in Oil with Hot Peppers,
air-dried cod, xviii, 160, 186 Garlic, and Mint, 40, 286-87
Branzino Sotto Sale, 69, 103, 160, 181, 182, 183, 189 soup
Creamy Chick Pea Soup with Shrimp and Anise about, 94
Seed, 103, 104, 105 Chicken Soup with Ricotta Dumplings, 92, 96
Insalata di Polipo, 71, 161, 162, 163 Creamy Chick Pea Soup with Shrimp and Anise
Marinated Octopus Salad with Olive Oil and Seed, 103, 104, 105
Lemon, 71, 161, 162, 163 Midsummer Soup of Romano Beans, Potatoes, and
sources for, 370 Tomato, 99-100
Vellutata di Ceci con Gamberi, 103, 104, 105 Minestra di Fagliolini Verdi con Pomodoro, 99-100
Whole Salt-Baked Sea Bass, 69, 103, 160, 181, 182, Polpette di Ricotta in Brodo, 92, 96
183, 189 Rita Callipo's Creamy Red Onion Soup, 10, 101-2
sea salt, 17 Vellutata di Ceci con Gamberi, 103, 104, 105
seasonings. See also specific seasonings Zuppa di Cipolla alla Casa Janca, 10, 101-2
sources for, 370 Southern Italy's Summer Vegetable Stew, 244-45
Semifreddo al Torrone, 351-52 Soverato, xvi
INDEX
sow thistle, harvesting, 256-57 sun-dried eggplants, 292
Spaghetti Aglio, Olio e Peperoncino in Tre Modi, 55-56 Sun-Dried Sweet Peppers, 37, 184, 223, 293, 294, 295
Spaghetti col Sugo di Baccala, 71-72, 189 sun-dried vegetables, 270. See also specific vegetables
Spaghetti with a Creamy Potato and Pancetta Sauce, Sun-Dried Zucchini, 248, 271, 291-92
10, 48, 66-67 Sun-Dried Zucchini with Calabrian Paprika, 23, 233,
Spaghetti with Garlic, Olive Oil, and Hot Red Pepper, 248-49, 304
Three Ways, 55-56 Sweet Christmas Ravioli with Chestnut and
Spaghetti with Salt Cod and a Spicy Tomato Sauce, Chocolate Filling, 189, 319-21
71-72, 189 sweet Italian peppers
spalla, 203 aDOUt, 16) 17. 239,95
Spicy Braised Rabbit with Sweet Peppers and Anchovy-Stuffed Peppers, 38
Oregano, 17, 194, 222-23, 235 Baccala alla Verbicarese, 184-85
variation with sun-dried sweet peppers, 223 Calabrian Sweet Paprika, 271, 293, 304-5
spring onions Calabrian Sweet Pepper Fritters, 37-38, 189
Minestra di Fave e Cipolle, 97-98 Conserva di Peperoni, 222, 271, 301-2
Thick Fava Bean and Spring Onion Stew, 97-98 Crisp-Fried Potatoes and Sweet Peppers, 262-63
Squillace, xvi Homemade Sweet Pepper Paste, 222, 271, 301-2
Statti Mantonico, 41 Patate Fritte con Peperoni, 262-63
stew Peperoni Fritti con Acciughe, 241
Ciambotta, 244-45 Peperoni Seccati al Sole, 37, 184, 223, 293, 294, 295
Minestra di Fave e Cipolle, 97-98 Pepe Rosso, 271, 293, 304-5
Southern Italy's Summer Vegetable Stew, 244-45 Pipi 'Mpajanati, 37-38, 189
Thick Fava Bean and Spring Onion Stew, 97-98 Salt Cod with Sweet Red Peppers and Potatoes,
stinging nettles, harvesting, 256-57 184-85
stoccafisso, xviii, 160, 186 Scrambled Eggs with Sweet Peppers, 155
stockfish, xviii Spicy Braised Rabbit with Sweet Peppers and
stomatico, x1x Oregano, 17, 194, 222-23, 235
strawberries Sun-Dried Sweet Peppers, 37, 184, 223, 293, 294,
Fragolino, 307 295
Rosolio, 307 Uova Strapazzate con Peperoni, 155
wild, harvesting, 257 Whole Fried Sweet Peppers with Anchovies, 241
Strega liqueur sweet Italian sausage
Gelato di Ricotta Stregata, 345, 346 Rigatoni all Pastora, 75-76
Ricotta Ice Cream with Strega, 345, 346 Shepherd’s-Style Rigatoni with Ricotta and
striped bass Sausage, 75-76
in Branzino Sotto Sale, 69, 103, 160, 181, 182, 183, sweet potatoes
189 about, 235
in Whole Salt-Baked Sea Bass, 69, 103, 160, 181, Grispelle, 235, 324-25
182, 183, 189 Warm Christmas Doughnuts, 235, 324-25
striped sea bream, 158 Sweet Ravioli with Ricotta and Candied Orange,
struncatura, 68-69 322-23
Struncatura con Acciughe e Mollica, 68-70, 127 Swiss chard
strutto, 208 Pitta con Verdura, 131-32, 133, 134
Stuffed Baked Sardines, 166 Stuffed Pizza with Chard and Dill, 131-32, 133,
Stuffed Pizza with Chard and Dill, 131-32, 133, 134 134
Stuffed Pork Rolls in Tomato Sauce Verbicaro Style, swordfish, xix
194-95, 196, 197-98 Braciole di Pesce Spada alla Griglia, 99, 127, 172-73
sugo, 85 Grilled Swordfish Rolls with Breadcrumb Stuffing,
Sugo di Pomodoro, 33, 53-54, 60, 80, 90, 142, 209, 99, 127, 172-73
250, 252 hunting on Costa Viola, 174
INDEX 393
swordfish (continued) Baked Chicken with Potatoes, Tomatoes, and Hot
Large Pasta Tubes with Swordfish and Cherry Pepper, 193, 195, 218-19
Tomatoes, 73-74 Baked Fresh Anchovies with Breadcrumbs,
Paccheri con Pesce Spada e Pomodori Pacchini, 165-66
INDEX
Pasta “Gnocchi” with Roasted Tomatoes and Wide Noodles with Pork Ribs and Tomato, 88-89
Breadcrumbs, 57-58 winter tomatoes, 249
Pesce Spada alla Ghiotta, 69, 103, 160, 173, 175-76, Tonno alla Menta, 177-78
189 tonno di tonnara, 12
Pizza Fritta, 142-43 Tonno Sott'Olio, 23, 40, 288
Polenta con Fagioli e Salsiccia, 110-11, 111 Tormaresca Masseria Maime, 217
Polenta with Beans and Sausage, 110-11, 111 torrone, X1x, 353
Pollo alla Calabrese, 193, 195, 218-19 Torta di Noci, 341-42
Pollo con Melanzane, 220-21 Tortiera di Patate e Carciofi, 127, 235, 259, 260, 261
Polpette alla Verbicarese, 53, 77, 195, 209-10 Trebbiano toscano grape, 365
Polpette di Melanzane variation, 31, 32-33 tree fruits, dried, 270-71
pomodori invernali, 249 triglie, 158
Pomodori Pelati, 53, 64, 71, 83, 86, 88, 107, 110, 184, tripe
205, 222, 271, 296-97 about, 194
Pork Skin Rolls Braised in Tomato Sauce, 194, 195, Tripe with Tomatoes and Sweet Peppers, 230-31
204-5 Trippa con Peperoni, 230-31
Potato Gnocchi, Calabrian Style, go-91 Tropea, xvii, 101
Quick Tomato Sauce, 33, 53-54, 60, 80, 90, 142, truffle
209, 250, 252 Pizzo's Famous Ice Cream Truffle, 354, 355-58,
Ragu, 82-84, 90 359
Rasckatieddi di Patate, 90-91 Tartufo al Modo di Pizzo, 354, 355-58, 359
Raviolini Calabresi, 52, 80-81 tuna
Riso con Fagioli, 109 about, 12-13
Risotto con le Cozze, 106, 107-8, 161 canned, 12-13
Risotto with Fresh Mussels, 106, 107-8, 161 fishing for, 179-80 ;
Sagne Chine, 77-79, 116 Fresh Tuna Pizzo Style with Wine Vinegar, Garlic,
Salt Cod with Sweet Red Peppers and Potatoes, and Mint, 177-78
184-85 Fresh Tuna Preserved Under Oil, 23, 40, 288
San Marzano, 12, 234 Pizza con Tonno e Bottarga di Pizzo, 135-36
Sautéed Mushrooms with Garlic and Tomatoes, Tonno alla Menta, 177-78
254-55 Tonno Sott'Olio, 23, 40, 288
Scorze di Fagiolini con Ragu d'Agnello, 82-84 Tuna and Red Onion Pizza with Bottarga, 135-36
Southern Italy's Summer Vegetable Stew, 244-45 tuna belly, 13
Spaghetti col Sugo di Baccala, 71-72, 189 tuna caviar, 42
Spaghetti with Salt Cod and a Spicy Tomato Sauce, tuna egg sacs, 42, 43. See also bottarga
71-72, 189 turdilli, 312
Spicy Braised Rabbit with Sweet Peppers and
Oregano, 17, 194, 222-23, 235 Uova Strapazzate con Peperoni, 155
Spicy Calabrian Rice with Tomato and Borlotti
Beans, 53, 109 vegetables, 233-67. See also specific vegetables
Stuffed Pork Rolls in Tomato Sauce Verbicaro Ciambotta, 244-45
Style, 194-95, 196, 197-98 gardens and, 242-43
Sugo di Pomodoro, 33, 53-54, 60, 80, 90, 142, 209, preserved under oil. See sott'olio
25O 252 Southern Italy's Summer Vegetable Stew, 244-45
Swordfish “Glutton’s Style" with Tomato, Capers, sun-dried, 270
and Olives, 69, 103, 160, 173, 175-76, 189 vegetable seeds, sources for, 370
Tortiera d'Alici, 165-66 ventresca, 13
Tripe with Tomatoes and Sweet Peppers, 230-31 Verbicaro, 4, 6, 7
Trippa con Peperoni, 230-31 Verbicaro DOC (denominazione di origine contollata),
Vrasciole alla Verbicarese, 194-95, 196, 197-98 362
INDEX 395
Verbicaro wines, 367 wild greens, 256-57
Verdicchio, 165 wild mushrooms, foraging for, xv, 257-58
verdure. See vegetables; specific vegetables wild straberries, harvesting, 257
Vestini Campagnano Pallagrello Nero, 197 wine(s). See Calabrian wines; specific wines and variet-
Vibo Valentia, xvi—xvil ies of wine
Villa Schinosa Moscato di Trani, 333 wineries, Calabrian, 366-67, 372-73. See also specific
Vouvray, 35 wineries
Vrasciole alla Verbicarese, 194-95, 196, 197-98 winter squash
Vruocculi ca’ Savuzuizza, 109, 217 Butternut Squash Marinated with Garlic and
Mint, 264-65
walnuts Zucca Gialla con la Menta, 264-65
Pitta ‘mpigliata, 338-40 winter tomatoes, 249
Rolled Pastry Rosettes with Walnuts, Raisins, and
Cinnamon, 338-40 yellow nectarines, 343
Rosangela's Flourless Walnut Cake, 341-42
Torta di Noci, 341-42 Zinfandel, 63, 88
Warm Christmas Doughnuts, 235, 324-25 Zucca Gialla con la Menta, 264-65
Warm Seafood Crostini, 39-40 Zucchine Ripiene con Ricotta, 246-47
water-bath processing, 273-74 Zucchine Seccate al Sole, 248, 271, 291-92
wheat, growing of, 115-16 Zucchine Sott'Olio, 40, 286-87
white Burgundy, 187 zucchini
white Rh6éne, 175 Baked Ricotta-Stuffed Zucchini, 246-47
Whole Fried Sweet Peppers with Anchovies, 241 Baked Zucchini Layered with Tomato, Mozzarella,
Whole Salt-Baked Sea Bass, 69, 103, 160, 181, 182, and Parmigiano-Reggiano, 250-51
183, 189 Ciambotta, 244-45
Whole-Wheat Linguine with Anchovies and Parmigiana di Zucchine, 250-51
Breadcrumbs, 68-70, 127 Pizza con Zucchine e Fiori di Zucchine, 137, 138,
whole wheat variation of My Family's Everyday 139
Bread, 125, 128 Pizza with Grilled Zucchini and Stuffed Zucchini
Wide Noodles with Pork Ribs and Tomato, 88-89 Blossoms, 137, 138, 139
wild fennel, 215-16, 257 Southern Italy's Summer Vegetable Stew, 244-45
wild fennel seed Sun-Dried Zucchini, 248, 271, 291-92
about, 18 Sun-Dried Zucchini with Calabrian Paprika, 23,
Cracked Green Olives with Fennel and Hot Pepper, 304
233, 248-49,
24-26 Zucchine Ripiene con Ricotta, 246-47
Dry-Cured Black Olives with Hot Red Pepper and Zucchine Seccate al Sole, 248, 271, 291-92
Fennel, 27-28, 304 Zucchine Sott'Olio, 40, 286-87
Fresh Homemade Fennel Sausage Calabrian Style, Zucchini Preserved in Oil with Hot Peppers,
75, 90, 101, 195, 211, 212, 213-15, 217, 252 Garlic, and Mint, 40, 286-87
Funghi Sott'Olio, 28, 283, 285 Zucchini Seccati al Sole con Pepe Rosso, 23, 233,
Melanazane Sott'Olio, 23, 216, 281-82 248-49, 304
Mushrooms Preserved in Oil with Hot Peppers, zucchini blossoms
Wild Fennel, and Garlic, 28, 283, 285 Pizza con Zucchine e Fiori di Zucchine, 137, 138, 139
Olive Nere Secche con Peperoncino, 27-28, 304 Pizza with Grilled Zucchini and Stuffed Zucchini
Olive Verde Schiacciate, 24-26 Blossoms, 137, 138, 139
Pickled Eggplant Preserved in Oil with Hot Zucchini Preserved in Oil with Hot Peppers, Garlic,
Peppers, Wild Fennel, and Garlic, 23, 216, and Mint, 40, 286-87
281-82 Zucchini Seccati al Sole con Pepe Rosso, 23, 233,
Salsiccia Calabrese, 75, 90, 101, 195, 211, 212, 248-49, 304
213-15, 217, 252 Zuppa, 94
396 INDEX
Born and raised in Ver-
bicaro, Calabria,” Rosetta
Costantino moved to Oak-
land, California, with her
parents at age fourteen. She
‘earned a chemical engineer-
ing degree at the University
of California, Berkeley, and
spent twenty years working
SARA
REMINGTON in Silicon Valley. Now, often
aecisted cS her mother, Maria, she shares the tech-
Febleelcte-beeen a-fy <-o} dadel-Maw-teblaloreETe@riclosutbem clceetsel
in her popular cooking classes. Rosetta lives in Oakland
with her husband and two children. My Calabria is her
first book.’
www.cookingwithrosetta,com
=~ fs i
ai
Potatoes Layered with Artichokes and Breadcrumbs, Risotto with Fresh Mussels, Jars of ‘Nduja, Pizzo's Famous Ice Cream Truffle
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“Between these covers is an alluring piece of Italy we _—‘“I love this book. It's exactly the kind of cookbook I'm
know next to nothing about—and one that will make you always looking for, an introduction to a distinctive
_-very hungry. My speculation is that years from now tthis kitchen that I don't know all that well and at the same _
book could still be a touchstone for all of us wh vantto.time a brilliant: portrait of é a1 place and 3a time that has all _
understand and eat the true food of Calabria." eae but disappeared.”
~s_[=LYNNE ROSSETTO KASPER, host, = _- =NANCY HARMON JENKINS,
‘Thee Splendid 1Table®, public radio's national — as author of Cucina del Sole
food oe American Public Media oe. :
* 5 === - In Rosetta Costantino, Calabrian. cooking has finally
UPhis rateteak is not only Send authentic eletian found its ambassador. Her hearty and tempting recipes
ofthe ce oking of rural Calabria but aPintias ob heart. are flavored with family tales of hardship and resource- _
fulness, spotlighting the ingenuity lofeyi eWMe) din-<-10)-44-he)ebTe
isolation that gives special character to the food of this
dramatic region and provides a stimulating example for
nodayss aspiring locavores." 3
ee —MARY TAYLOR SIMETI,
> << author of Pomp and Sustenance
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