C3 Service Manual Eng

РУКОВОДСТВО ПО РЕМОНТУ И ЭКСПЛУАТАЦИИ
БЕНЗИНОВЫЕ МОДЕЛИ 1.1,1Д 1Л

ДИЗЕЛЬНЫЕ МОДЕЛИ 1.4 |е А и Тб клаплнлми)
OTNOEM NW
Repair and operation manual
Models with petrol engines: 1.1 l. / 1.4 l. / 1.6 l.
Models with diesel engines: 1.4 l. (with 8 and 16 valves) BUT!
Publishing house
MONOLITH
2006
UDC 629.33.050
BBK63.3 (4URK-5TNI)
417
Kalyukov A.T.
417 SFOepSZ since 2002 Gasoline and diesel engines Repair and operation manual: R: Monolit Publishing House LLC, 2006 - 336
pp.: ill.
13VM 967-7179-98-2
The manual contains: general information about the design of Cigoep SZ vehicles and their modifications, recommendations for
operation and maintenance, a description of possible malfunctions of the engine, transmission, chassis , steering, and brake system.
The tips given in this manual will help you carry out maintenance and repairs, both at a service station and on your own.
СОДЕРЖАНИЕ
Introduction Car repair procedures

Gasoline engines .....................Chapter 2A
Operating manual ....................................................... E®1
Diesel engines ......................................................... Chapter 2B
Safety comes first! .................................................... 0 e 1 Removal and overhaul of the engine Chapter 2C
Road repairs Engine systems
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems' ... .. Chapter 3
If the engine does not start ....................................... 0*2
Fuel and exhaust systems
Starting the engine from auxiliary battery ...................... 0*3
Gasoline engines ....................... .... . . Chapter 4A
Replacing wheel ........................................................... 0*4
Diesel engines ......................................................... Chapter 4B
What do smudges indicate .. .............• ......................... 0*5
Exhaust gas control system ....................................... Chapter 4C
Towing .......................................................................... 0*5 Starting and charging system .................................... Chapter
Weekly checks ........................................................................................... 5A
Ignition system - petrol models ................................... Chapter 5B
Introduction .g ............................................................... 0*6 Pre-launch system. . .yu heating - diesel models ..... Chapter 5C
Check points under the hood ....................................... 0»6
Engine oil level ............................................................ 0®7
Transmission
Coolant level ............................................................. 0*7 Clutch ....................................................................... Chapter 6
Fluid level in the washer reservoir ...................... 0*8 Manual transmission ................................................ Chapter 7A
Transmission and brake fluid level ...................... .... 0*8 Automatic transmission ............................................ Chapter 7B
Drive Shafts ............................................................. Chapter 8
Tire condition ............................................................ 0*9
Electrical equipment ................................................... .0*10 Brakes, suspension and steering
Battery ...................................................................... 0" 11 Brake system ............................................................ Chapter 9
Windshield wiper blades ........................................... 0*11 Suspension and Steering ......................................... Chapter 10
Fuel - lubricants and operating fluids ........................ 0 e 12 Body equipment
Tire pressure...: ........................................................ 0 e 12 Body and its equipment ............................................ Chapter 11
Electrical equipment of the body. .. . /Sh.ts:...... Chapter 12
Daily care and maintenance of models with 1A
Electrical diagrams ..................................................... 12® 18
gasoline engines" 1
Basic data for carrying out service work ................... 1 A» 2
Applications
Maintenance schedule .............................................. 1A®3 Dimensions and weights ..................... ...................... P® 1
Conversion factors ..................................................... P®2
Maintenance procedures .......................................... 1A®6
Purchase of spare parts ............................................. P®2
Daily care and maintenance of models with diesel Vehicle identification ................................................... P®3
Repair - general provisions ......................................... P®4
engines 1B® 1 Basic data for carrying out service work
Lifting a car with a jack and installing supports P® 5
.................................................................................. 1B®2
Tools and accessories ............................................... P®6
Maintenance schedule.. ............................................. 1B»3
Checking the technical condition of the car. P® 8
Maintenance procedures .......................................... 1B*6 Troubleshooting ......................................................... P® 13
Dictionary of technical terms ........................................ P®22
Subject index ..... G1®28
Введение
you get the most out of your vehicle. The

manual will help you determine what work
needs to be done (even if you decide to have
it done at a workshop), and provide
information on routine maintenance. will
allow you to logically determine the
diagnosis if random malfunctions occur. We
hope that you will use the manual when
doing the work yourself. In relatively simple
cases, this can be even faster than at a
service station. Considering that you will
have to go there twice - leave and then pick
up the car. This is important. what you can
save by avoiding the costs associated with
visiting a service station
The manual contains drawings and
descriptions to facilitate a better
understanding of the operation and design of
various components. The necessary actions
are depicted and described in a clear step-
by-step sequence.
References to the "left" and "right" sides
of the vehicle are to be understood as viewed
by a person sitting in the driver's seat looking
forward
The hatchback SZ was introduced in the springs and an anti-roll bar. The rear axle
UK in early 2002. The SZ was initially beam has an integrated anti-roll bar with Acknowledgments
available with 1 4 and 1.6 liter petrol engines separate shock absorbers and springs • We thank the service station. by
or a 1 4 liter turbocharged diesel engine. A wide range of standard and optional providing some of the tools and everyone
Later that year, a 1.1 liter petrol engine and equipment is available to suit most tastes . who helped create this Guide
a 16 valve 1.4 liter diesel engine were added including central locking, electric windows,
We are confident in the accuracy of the
to the range. front and side airbags. Air conditioning
information contained in this manual, but
All engines have proven themselves system is installed on all models.
manufacturers make changes during the
previously in many Citroens and Peugeots, Provided that maintenance is carried out
release of a particular model without
including the 14 liter HO| engine, recently regularly and in accordance with the
informing us. The authors or publishers are
developed jointly with Rogb Moyut Co. manufacturer's recommendations. the car not responsible for damages resulting from
The engine is located transversely at the should be reliable and very economical. A inaccuracies or omissions in this information.
front of the car. As standard, all versions are carefully designed engine compartment
equipped with a manual transmission, but ensures convenient and easily accessible
1.4-liter petrol models can be equipped with maintenance and repairs
an automatic transmission.
All models have a fully independent front
Guide to your CIgoep SZ
suspension, including shock absorbers, The purpose of this manual is to help
3•п
Manual
Content
Subsection number 4
Additional car accessories and anti-theft equipment 1 Belts and । Subsection number
(not young security 2 Ventilation, heating and air conditioning of the interior 5
Adjusting the seats and steering column 3 Driving a car
Control body, light indicators and interior equipment ... AVZ and E8R systems driving safety 6
1 Vehicle access and anti-theft lock/unlock the car doors and trunk lid. By Briefly press the button once to lock the
equipment pressing button A , the locks are locked, and doors .
THE BUTTON B - unlocking the locks If the If the doors are not unlocked, press button
Remote control locks do not work, press the corresponding B again
1. The design of the remote control uses - button again The execution of these operations is -
the principle of high-frequency radiation (see These operations are accompanied by accompanied by flashing direction indicators
illustration). flashing direction indicators Caution: It is not recommended to enable the
The advantages of this radiation are
• When unlocked, the direction indicators “super lock” mode in case someone
• Wide range of radiation (No need to
flash quickly.
precisely target the signal receiving
• When blocked, the gate indicators light
location):
up for approximately two seconds.
• High cross-country ability (Signal passes
through rear luggage compartment): Also, these operations are accompanied
• Range ( signal coverage area is several by flashing of the door lock indicator located
meters). in the car interior
Note : Simultaneous use of several devices
equipped with high-frequency emitters
(mobile phones, home alarms, etc.) may
cause short-term interruptions in the
operation of the remote control. If there are
constant malfunctions in the operation of the
remote control, it should be reprogrammed.
The LED on button A of the remote control
indicates three possible states :
• The LED flashes when the key is in the
ignition switch in the “parking” position or 1.1 Key with remote control
when the key is not identified, as well as The central locking will not work if one of
when the car doors are locked. the car doors or the trunk door is open or is
• it lights up. when the key is in the ignition not closed properly
switch in the “accessories and additional The remote control will not be able to
power consumers” position, in the perform its functions while the key is in the
“ignition on” position or in the “ starter on” ignition switch in the ■anti-theft device-on
position, and also if the car doors are - position, even when the ignition is turned off
locked (Except when performing the reinitialization
• it goes out if the car doors are not locked. procedure) Caution: Be careful because you
may accidentally press the remote control
Failure of the remote control button in your pocket , You may
battery unintentionally unlock your car doors.
Information about the failure of the remote However, if no door is opened within thirty
control battery appears as a message on the seconds of the unlocking operation, all
display. Replacement of the element is vehicle doors and the tailgate will
described in the Repair and Maintenance automatically lock again.
Manual Before leaving the car
Note: Your car is equipped with a system of • Close all door windows without leaving
protection against unauthorized intrusion by any objects visible inside the car.
selecting a code on the remote control. If • Remove the key from the ignition and lock
such an attempt is made, the system the steering wheel and all doors.
disables the remote control. Central locking in super locking
To reinitialize the system, open the driver's
door using the key.
mode
3. Briefly press button A to set the “super
central locking blocking” mode.
Now opening doors both from inside and
2. The remote control allows you to
outside becomes impossible
Э•2 Руководство по эксплуатации
located inside the car, since it is impossible Disabling the alarm using the inside, the child restraint system must be
to independently open the doors from the disabled.
inside (without having a remote control). key
Child safety system
However, if within 30 sec ku^. te will be 8. Unlock the doors with the key and get
14. The system allows you to lock the rear
open nm one of the doors mode q te~s." cut*' into the car ( the siren will sound
doors, preventing them from being opened
lome' nyaekya cha . CH-*IMO oyufovyu center immediately). Insert the key into the ignition,
from the inside. This device operates
benefit .^mky after identifying the key code, the alarm will
independently of the central locking system
automatically turn off
Locking the central locking On the instrument panel
Disabling the alarm using the
without setting the “super-
remote control
locking” mode 4. By pressing button A
again for a long time (for 5 seconds) , the 9. The alarm will be turned off when the car
super-locking mode* is turned off , while the doors are unlocked (by briefly pressing
normal central locking mode is maintained button B on the remote control).
(the car doors are locked only from the
outside)
Disabling volumetric alarm
5. When purchasing a car you are given a 10. If necessary, you can turn on only the
secret code card <see. illustration} Be careful perimeter protection and temporarily disable
not to scratch or damage the secret area of the volumetric protection (for example, if the
the code card; its safety is the guarantee of owner wants to leave an animal inside the
uninterrupted operation of the electronic car). To do this, with the ignition switched off,
immobilizer hold the volumetric alarm activation button 1.12 Openings for manually locking doors
pressed for at least one second. The
Anti-theft alarm volumetric alarm activation button is located
6. Anti-theft alarm system provides on the instrument panel. In this case, the LED
will be lit with a constant light, switching to
• External perimeter protection, through
flashing mode indicates the activation of the
sensors installed on the doors, tailgate,
entire alarm system. The volumetric alarm
hatch, and also by monitoring the power
will be turned off. only if the entire alarm
supply.
system is activated within the next 5 minutes
• Internal volumetric protection using
after it is turned off (the period of time after
ultrasonic sensors (responsive to
which the LED will go out).
changes in volume in the vehicle interior).
This system can be turned off using a Note: The siren is automatically turned off
switch located on the instrument panel. (for example, in order to disconnect the
battery ) when the car doors are unlocked
Turning on the alarm 7. First of all, using the remote control.
you should make sure that. that all the car
doors are tightly closed The alarm is turned
Opening the side doors, hood
on when you press button A on the remote and tailgate
control The sensors of the peripheral system Opening doors from the inside
are turned on after 5 seconds, and the
11. By clicking on the A button ? . The
sensors of the volumetric system after 45
remote control can lock or unlock the electric
seconds after the alarm is turned on If the
central locking of tightly closed doors. The
alarm is turned on, then any attempt of
doors can always be opened from the inside
unauthorized access to the car is triggered
in the usual way. The central locking will not
siren, the sound signal of which is
work if one of the doors or the luggage
accompanied by flashing direction indicators.
compartment door is not tightly closed. The
Following this, the alarm systems are
luggage compartment door is automatically
reactivated, and the fact of activation itself is
locked when the vehicle speed reaches 10
recorded -
km/ hour
Note: When you open the door in the usual
way, it unlocks.
Locking doors manually
12. 8 In the event of a malfunction in the
electrical part, the car doors can be locked
manually through hole B located on each
door ) see. illustration)
13. With the door open, remove the black
protective tape (available only on the rear
1.5 Code card doors) Use the key, insert its tip into the hole
and turn Then close the door After this
in her memory. The alarm is also activated operation and unlock the doors from the
when the power supply is interrupted. In such remote control by pressing button A or
a case, the systems are reactivated when the opening the driver's door using the key . The
power supply is restored. central locking continues to operate as usual
Caution: To unlock the rear doors from the
Руководство по эксплуатации 3*3
1.17 Накладка задней откидной двери 1.18 Рукоятка задней откидной двери 1.19 Отверстие для аварийного раз-
блокирования задней двери
There is a button that allows you to lock the is automatically blocked. • insert something like a screwdriver into the
rear doors from the inside. 17. To open the luggage compartment from hole in the lock and use it to open the
Note: If the child restraint system is turned the outside, pull up the protruding trim A , luggage compartment.
on, the LED on the power button for the rear holding it in the center, between the license
door locking system lights up when you turn plate lights (see illustration )
Hood
on the ignition. 20. The hood should only be opened after
Closing the luggage compartment the vehicle has come to a complete stop. To
Manually locking rear doors 18. Lower the luggage compartment door open the hood, pull the lever located under
15. The rear doors can be locked by from the compartment using the special the instrument panel towards you (see
lowering the lever. handle located on the inner trunk lining. After illustration) 21. Using lever A, located under
Tailgate lowering the door, press it (see illustration) the edge of the hood in the center, lift the
16. The tailgate can only be unlocked after Emergency release of the luggage hood (see illustration).
Letting go of the hood without going all the
the vehicle has come to a complete stop compartment door way, let it slam shut.
using: 19. If the luggage compartment unlocking
• remote control, system malfunctions , the lock can be Hood support
• opening one of the doors. opened from inside the trunk (see illustration) 22. Remove the support from the place
Note: In any case, when the vehicle is moving where it is placed and turn it so that it is
(as soon as the vehicle speed exceeds 10 inserted into groove 1 and then into groove 2
km/h), the tailgate (shown by the arrow in the illustration).
Caution: Never pull the support forward.
Power sliding sunroof

23. The sunroof can be opened by sliding
into the rear of the roof, revealing the part of
it that is directly above the heads of the driver
and front passenger.
When the hatch is opened, the deflector
automatically extends
To open the hatch, turn the handle
1.15 Rear door manual locking lever counterclockwise (there are 9 installation
positions)
Electric sunroof
1.14 Electric button for the rear door locking
system from the inside
1.20 Внутренний рычаг открывания 1.21 Внешний рычаг открывания 1.22 Подпорка капота
капота капота
э • а Руководство по эксплуатации
It is operated in step mode, the rotary sunroof
control handle is located between the sun
visors on the ceiling trim and has 9 positions
for installing the sunroof.
A special device allows you to stop closing
the hatch if any obstacle appears in its path;
in this case, the hatch will open again (see
illustration)
Sunroof curtain
The sunroof curtain can be operated
manually by sliding it. regardless of whether
the hatch itself is closed or open
Caution: Installation of the sliding sunroof
option is prohibited on vehicles equipped with
side airbags and curtain airbags (changes in
safety design standards).
1.23 Люк крыши с электроприводом
2 Safety features • With the ignition off , place the key in the
Airbags
appropriate hole and turn it to the “ОУ”
3. The front passenger airbag can be
(ON) position, thus turning on the airbag
disabled (see illustration}
again.
1. To ensure the safety of the driver and Disabling the front passenger's • the airbag indicator on the instrument
passengers, cars are equipped with seat front airbag cluster will light up for a few seconds.
belts and airbags . 4. In order to install a child seat on the front Warning: Never install a child seat on the
passenger seat, installing it “backwards in front passenger seat without disabling the
Seat belt height adjustment the direction of travel of the car,” it is front airbag, as the child could be seriously
2. When adjusted correctly, the top seat belt necessary to disable the front passenger injured if the front airbag deploys in an
should pass over the middle of the shoulder. airbag. To do this you should accident.
For correct height adjustment, the upper • With the ignition off, install the key in the
and lower seat belts must be in a tensioned appropriate hole. 3 Adjusting the seats and steering
position. • Turn the key to the "OFF" position, the column
Warning: For safety reasons, it is not front passenger airbag is now disabled.
recommended to adjust the steering column • When the ignition is turned on, the front
and seat belts while the vehicle is moving. passenger's front airbag deactivation
Manual adjustment
indicator will light up in the instrument
cluster. Headrest
Be sure to reactivate the front passenger's 1 . To raise or lower the preparation
front airbag. To do this you should:
2.1 Seat belts

4 .4 Opening for activation of the front
airbag
2.3 Airbag deactivation indicator

Руководство по эксплуатации э • 5
1. 6 Heated seat switch , pull it forward and

at the same time, in accordance with the
selected direction, up or down
The adjustment is considered correct if the
top edge of the headrest is level with the top
of the head.
You can also adjust the angle of the
headrest.
To remove the headrest, pull it to its
highest position and bend the headrest lock
using a coin. and then pull it all the way up.
Seat backrest tilt
2. To adjust the seatback angle, use the 4.1 Лицевая консоль
adjustment handle is set to the strongest heating mode.
The seat back can be tilted back to an
Armrest
The heated seat temperature is adjusted
angle of 45'. Having tilted it to a fixed position, 5. In order to bring the armrest into a vertical
automatically.
you can unlock the backrest using the position from its original position, lift it up to a
adjustment handle. fixed vertical position Note: The heated seat system only operates
when the engine is running.
Adjusting the driver's seat in Seat heating system
height and angle of inclination Adjusting the steering column
6. The seat heating system can be turned 7. The steering column is adjustable in height
3. Press the adjustment knob and set the on separately for each seat. Rotate the
and depth.
seat to the desired position adjustment wheel located on the sides of the The operation is performed only when the
Longitudinal adjustment of the seats to set one of three heating modes (see car is completely stopped
driver's seat illustrations) Before you start adjusting the steering
4. Raise the adjustment handle and set the A: The heating system is turned off. column, adjust the position of the driver's
seat to the desired position. 1: The heating system is turned on and set seat, finding the most optimal option for you.
to the weakest heating mode . Unlock the steering column by sliding the
2: The heating system is turned on and set adjustment lever down. Adjust the height of
to medium heating mode. the steering wheel and then lock it. by pulling
3: Heating system on the adjustment lever all the way up. Make
sure that after adjustment you still have a
good view of the instrument cluster located
on the instrument panel (see illustrations)
4 Controls, indicators and
interior equipment
1. The controls located on the center and
front consoles are shown in the illustration.
1 Side window blower nozzles.
3.7a Steering column adjustment lever
2 Left side vent
3 Left speaker (Tweeter)
4 Steering column switch with functions:
3.7v The direction of adjustment of the

steering wheel of the left column
3*6 Руководство по эксплуатации
• Turning on the side lights, low and high 17 Side window blower nozzle Display
beams 18 Key hole: 3. When you turn on the ignition, the following
• Turning on the direction indicators • Activating/Disabling the front passenger - lights up in sequence on the display:
• Turning on the front fog lights airbag
• Turning on the rear fog lights • Engine oil level indicator
5 Steering column gear switch (with -
19 Front passenger airbag • Mileage indicator until next service
ZepzoOpue type gearbox ) 20 Lower glove box. • Odometer
6 Sound signal • Compartment for on-board documents • Daily odometer
7 Driver airbag 21 Place for installing a car radio
8 Instrument cluster
9 Steering column switch with functions: 22 Air conditioner or heating/ventilation Engine oil level indicator
• Activating the windshield wipers controls 4. When the ignition is turned on, the display
• Activating the windshield washer 23 Electrical socket for 12 1/ shows the engine oil level for a few seconds,
and then the maintenance indicator data also
• Rear window wiper activation 24 Control keys for electric windows of the
appears for a few seconds.
• Steering column control panel for car front doors
radio 25 Key for turning on the
• computer control “AOTO” mode (with the “ZepzoOpche”
10 Button for controlling the central locking gearbox)
of doors and luggage compartment
26 Removable ashtray
11 Display
12 Emergency stop light button 27 Parking brake R so
13 Central grille with ventilation nozzles
14 Control buttons:
28 Cigarette lighter
•' oooooh
29 Gear shift lever
• Anti-theft alarm
30 Ignition switch with anti-theft device 4.4a Indication of excess oil level
• Parking sensor system
• Child safety system 31 Cruise control control keys
Max - The display flashes max and 6 filled
• Overspeed warning system 32 Handle for opening the hood cells. This indicates an increased oil level in
• Stability control system (E8P) 33 Steering column adjustment lever the engine.
15 Right side ventilation nozzle
34 Compartments for small items (pockets)
16 Right speaker (Tweeter)
• Fuse box cover
35 Headlight corrector
36 Electrically operated exterior mirror
adjustment knob
2. The following combination of instruments
is located on the dashboard (see illustration)
4.4b Indication of insufficient oil level

MT - TT and 6 dashes flash on the display.
This indicates that the engine oil level is
insufficient .
4.4c Flashing dashes on the display indicate
a malfunction in the system
5. If this indication is indicated, you should
check the oil level in the engine using an oil
dipstick or consult with specialists at a
CITROEN service station
Индикатор температуры Тахометр Индикатор уровня
охлаждающей жидкости --щ топлива
Индикация положения селектора автоматической коробки Дисплей передач

(АКПП)/коробки передач типа ЗепзоЭпуе
4.2 Комбинация приборов

Light indicators CITROEN service station. be a problem with the system.

6. The following indicator lights are located Engine oil pressure indicator . Индикатор повышенной
on the dashboard (see illustration) If the indicator lights up while the vehicle is температуры охлаждающей
жидкости и уровня
Индикатор указателя охлаждающей
левого поворота liquids in the cooling system.
moving, you should immediately stop, turn If all the cells of the pictogram are lit with a
Индикатор включения constant light ( indicator of increased coolant
габаритных огней temperature) and at the same time a sound
off the engine and check the oil level. signal (Ep) is heard, or if the last cell of the
pictogram is lit with a constant light,
Индикатор указателя indicating an insufficient level of coolant, and
правого поворота at the same time a sound is also heard sound
If it continues to burn despite the normal oil signal (Yr), you should stop immediately and
turn off the ignition. The electric radiator fan
Индикатор включения will continue to run for some time. Allow the
дальнего света фар engine to cool, taking the precautions
level in the engine, you should contact SU outlined in the 'Safety First' section.
Индикатор включения Exceeding the coolant temperature can have
противотуманных фар many unfortunate consequences, so contact
a CITROEN service station immediately.
CITROEN as soon as possible.
Индика тор включения задних Индикатор стояночного
противотуманных огней тормоза, уровня тормозной
жидкости и неполадок в
системе распределения
Индикатор, сообщающий о o Minimum fuel level
том, что водитель не indicator/Fuel level indicator.
пристегнул ремень
When the fuel tank is full, 6 cells light up on
безопасности
the display, which then gradually, one after
indicator lights up on 5 seconds when braking forces. another, go out. Each of the first five cells
starting the engine, reminding the driver
When the engine is running, the indicator - approximately corresponds to 8 liters of fuel.
to fasten his seat belt, or illuminates
indicates that. that the vehicle's parking When the last cell remains burning . the
when the driver has not fastened his brake is set or not fully released, that the “minimum fuel level” warning light comes on
seat belt. brake fluid level is insufficient, or that there is and a sound signal (Yp) sounds
Front passenger airbag a problem with the brake system. If the There is approximately 8 liters of fuel left in
deactivation indicator . indicator lights up while the parking brake is the fuel tank . When you turn on the “Ask
If the vehicle is running, it indicates a problem
released, stop immediately and seek Rape!” mode The fuel level indicator lights up
assistance from a CITROEN workshop. for a few seconds.
Indicator of the system of
stabilization of exchange rate
Индикатор работы двига- stability (E5P).
теля (автодиагностика). Lights up when the system is
operating . When the E8P system is
Если индикатор мигает или
activated, the EZR indicator on the
загорается во время движе
instrument cluster begins to blink.
with the injection, ignition or catalytic
converter system (depending on the Lights up when there is a problem
country). If, while the vehicle is moving, the E5P
You should contact a CITROEN service indicator lights up on the instrument cluster
station as soon as possible . and an audible signal (Ep) sounds, this
Airbag indicator. indicates a problem in the system.
Contact a CITROEN service station and ask
them to check this system.
А1К Diesel engine preheating
ВАС indicator
Индикатор зарядки ABS system indicator

аккумуляторной батареи. The ABS system warning lamp
Индикатор не должен гореть lights up when the ignition is
при работающем двигате turned on and should
le. If the indicator lights up go out after a few seconds.

continuously, you should If the warning light does not go out, there may
immediately contact a
When the last cell of the pictogram goes out,
the “minimum fuel level” warning light -
continues to light. There is approximately 4
liters of fuel left in the fuel tank.
Clock and display

7. Set up the display and clock by pressing
the corresponding buttons (see illustration)
Setting display options

8. Press key B until the display appears
flashing
Then briefly press the key
4.7a Digital clock

э • а Руководство по эксплуатации
on the speed of the vehicle. (see illustration) Position 1: Stop
Note: In position 2 or 3 when stopped, the Position 2: Windshield wiper operation in
speed of the windshield wipers is intermittent mode.
automatically reduced . Position 3: Windshield wiper and washer
operation in time-delayed mode (three
A car equipped with a rain operating cycles).
4.7v Display sensor.
13. Position 1: The speed of the windshield
Windshield washer
You can select parameters to configure in the wipers is adjusted automatically, depending 17. To turn on the windshield washer, pull
following order : message language, hour. on the intensity of precipitation the windshield wiper control lever towards
minute, year. month, day, daily cycle, Note: In position 2 or 3 at a stop, the speed you, and the windshield wipers will operate
temperature units of the windshield wipers is automatically intermittently (three wiper cycles occur).
reduced. Also, when the low beam is on, the headlight
A key allows you to configure the selected
washers will operate. When the fluid level in
parameter. Note: For safety reasons, the automatic
the windshield washer is at a minimum, a
By long pressing the A key you can scroll windshield wiper system is disabled when the
sound signal (b|p) will sound.
through the different settings options. ignition is turned off.
Before moving on to the next parameter, 14. When the ignition is turned on, to Heated rear window
you must confirm (memorize) the setting of restore the function of automatic activation of
the previous parameter by pressing the B key the windshield wipers 18. Turns on only when the engine is
If you do not press any further setting keys, running Electrical system
• set the windshield wiper control lever to
the setting mode is exited automatically. position O - Arge1 (Stop),
• Set the windshield wiper control lever to
Digital clock position 1 - IU.
9. To customize the display indication,
The restoration of function is evidenced
press the B key to set the hour and the A key
by the operation of the windshield wipers.
to set the minutes.
Caution: Do not obstruct the rain sensor
Adjusting the headlights located on the windshield behind the rear
10. Depending on the vehicle load, it is view mirror installed in the passenger
recommended to adjust the direction of the compartment.
headlight beam (see illustration).
Position 0: For no load
Position 1 : Partial load Position 2: Medium
load Position 3: Full load
Wiper
4.18a Heating switch on vehicles with climate
windshield control system...
11. The operating modes of the windshield 15. When washing a car with the ignition
wiper depend on the position of the lever (see
on, for example in an automatic car wash
illustration )
system
3. Accelerated operation of windshield -
• move the windshield wiper control lever to
wipers
the O - Arge ((Stop) position.
2. Normal operation of windshield wipers
1. Intermittent or automatic wiper modes When the automatic windshield wiper
0 Stopping the windshield wipers operation mode is turned on, a sound signal
4. Single wiper operation , pull the wiper (Вр) is heard indicating a malfunction in this
control lever down system.
A vehicle not equipped with a Wiper

rain sensor. rear window
12. Position 1: The speed of the windshield 16. The operating mode of the rear window
wipers is adjusted automatically , depending wiper depends on the position of the switch
4.16 Положения переключателя

4.10 Регулировка света фар 4.11 Переключатель очистителя заднего стекла
стеклоочистителя
You can adjust the mirror in four directions Interior lighting
(see illustration ).
28. The interior lighting is controlled by the
The heated exterior mirrors are activated
indicated buttons (see illustration ).
together with the heated rear window.
1. Interior lighting
Power window control 2. Directional lamp for reading road maps
4.18b ..and without the climate control 23. From the driver's seat , using the keys and documents
system , the heated rear window and exterior located on the center console of the 29. By pressing the front panel interior
rear view mirrors are activated by briefly instrument panel, you can control the car's lighting button, you can turn it on or off.
pressing the button on the instrument panel power windows. The lamp turns on and off smoothly
(see illustrations) Note: After turning off the ignition, you can
19. After approximately 2 minutes, the still operate the power windows for some
system automatically turns off to save energy
time.
consumption. Pressing the key briefly turns
24. Set the key in the first position and hold
the system off, and when pressed again, the
it - the window lifters move, which stops when
system turns on again for 12 minutes.
released -
Note: In frosty weather, be careful. to prevent
ice from forming on the front and rear
windshield wipers. Clear accumulated ice
from the base of the windshield.
Rear view mirror installed in

the passenger compartment 20. 4.28 Keys for interior lighting
The lever located on the lower edge of the
mirror housing allows you to install the
mirror in two positions:
1 - Day position: the adjustment lever is not
visible.
2 - “Night” position: (prevents the driver 4.21 Outside rear view mirror
from being dazzled by the headlights of
the vehicle behind) the adjustment lever
is visible (see illustration).
4.23 Power window keys

nii keys. Set the key to the second position
and release it - the window regulators move
and the glass rises or lowers until it is
4.20 Interior rear view mirror completely raised or lowered. When you
press the button again in the second position,
the movement of the glass stops.
Auto stop function

window lifter when
encountering an obstacle 25. A
special device stops the movement of the
glass when lifting, if any obstacle arises in
its path: when it occurs, the glass lowers
back.
26. After disconnecting the battery or after
4.22 Exterior mirror adjustment switch eliminating the malfunction, this function
should be restored. Using the button, lower
Electric exterior mirrors the window completely and then raise it
21. Your vehicle is equipped with electrically again. It will only rise a few centimeters.
adjustable outside rear view mirrors (see Press the button again to fully raise the
illustration) 22. Select the mirror you want to window. During this operation, the automatic
adjust by setting the switch to position. window stop function It does not work.
Position 1: Driver's side outside rear view
mirror Position 2: Passenger's side outside Manual window control
rear view mirror Move the adjustment handle. 27. to raise or lower the windows.
3 • 1О Руководство по эксплуатации
30. The lamp lights up when you unlock or 1 - Air distribution regulator in the cabin which does not guarantee optimal air
open one of the car doors. The lamp goes out
30 seconds after closing the doors: when you
turn on the ignition or after 10 minutes if one
of the car doors remains open.
31. The lamp lights up when the key is
removed from the ignition (with a delay of 30
N
seconds), or when one of the car doors is
opened
The lamp goes out 30 seconds after all the
doors of the car are closed or immediately
after the doors are locked 32. When you turn
on the ' vehicle localization' function while
parking it using the remote control: the lamp
will light up for a few seconds
33. By pressing one of the keys, you can
turn on or turn off one or another directional
light lamp for reading road maps and
documents. Directional lamps do not work
when the ignition is off
34. When the door is open or when the key
is removed from the ignition, pressing the
button for the front interior light can turn off or
re-enable the automatic interior light system
function. 5.1 Направления подачи воздуха в салон
2 - A valve that ensures insulation of the exchange in the cabin (should be set to at
5. Ventilation and heating interior least position 1).
3 - Air supply regulator.
9. Cabin air distribution regulator
N
4 - Supply air temperature regulator.
Air supply to the ventilation nozzles Manual air conditioning system
1. Air enters the car interior in the indicated on the instrument panel. (Ventilation 9. The air conditioning system only turns
directions (see illustration) on when the engine is running
nozzles are open)
2. Keep the central grille with ventilation
nozzles and the windshield air intake clean Footwell air supply in front and rear seats.
(to prevent dry leaves and snow from getting (Ventilation nozzles are closed)
into them) Air supply to the feet, windshield and side
When washing your vehicle in an windows.
automatic high-pressure washer, try to avoid
sweating and icing.
water getting into the air intakes. 6. By setting the switch to intermediate -
3. The ventilation system of your car is position 1, you can, at your request, distribute
equipped with a dust filter that prevents dust the air in the cabin with mixed air flows
from entering the cabin. Циркуляция воздуха
The filter must be replaced in accordance внутри салона
with the maintenance and care instructions. 7. Depending on the modification of the car,
4. Ventilation nozzles on the instrument by installing the valve in this position (or
panel allow you to open or close the access
pressing key 2), you can isolate the interior
of air into the cabin and direct air flows (up
from unpleasant odors and smoke from the
and down, right and left).
outside. As soon as this is no longer
Maximum comfort in the cabin is achieved
necessary, you should move the valve (press
with uniform air distribution in both the front
button 2) to another position to ventilate the
and rear seats. Air supply vents located on
interior and prevent your car windows from
the center console at the level of the gearshift
fogging up.
lever
8. The electric air supply fan
dacha allow to ensure the highest level of can only be turned on when the
comfort in the rear passenger seats engine is running. To achieve
maximum comfort in the cabin,
Caution: Do not block the temperature
sensor of the automatic climate control
system (climate control) located on the
instrument panel (indicated in the figure by Подача воздуха на ветровое и
arrow A) with foreign objects. боковые стекла.
5. The direction and modes of air supply to Обогрев и обдув ветрового
the cabin are regulated from the remote стекла, для устранения за
control ( see illustration} you should not set the switch to position 0,
Руководство по эксплуатации э • 16
10. Turn on the air conditioner using the 18. Air conditioning of the interior in - air supply will occur gradually until it reaches
switch located on the instrument panel (see automatic mode is carried out from the its optimal level.
illustration } remote control (see illustration} When getting into a car that has been -
Air conditioner switch L 1 - Display parked for a relatively long time, the
2 - Air temperature regulator temperature in the cabin is much lower (or
3 - Automatic air conditioning mode higher) than the most comfortable
11. When the indicator lights up , it means 4 - Air conditioning temperature, you should not change it in
that the air conditioner is turned on. For 5 - Air recirculation in the cabin (cabin order to quickly achieve the desired
greater efficiency, the air conditioning system insulation) comfortable temperature. The system itself
should only be turned on with the windows 6 - Air distribution in the cabin automatically activates all its technical
completely closed. 7 - Air supply regulator capabilities to eliminate temperature
12. The air conditioning system contains 8 - Heated/Blown windshield and front side differences as quickly as possible.
liquid refrigerant (environmentally friendly). windows 22. When you press the indoor air
13. For normal operation of the air 9 - Heated/Blown rear window recirculation button, all external ventilation
conditioning system, the air supply regulator 19 . If the air conditioning is turned off, then holes are closed, and the corresponding icon
should not be set to position O appears on the display.
the air temperature in the car interior cannot
14. The air circulation function inside the
be lower than the outside air temperature. An
cabin allows you to isolate the interior from
air conditioning system with automatic
the penetration of foreign odors, as well as
control allows you to maintain an optimal
increase the efficiency and speed of the air
climate in the cabin, regardless of external
conditioning system. Depending on the
weather conditions, by turning on the
modification of the car, press button A ( the
automatic operating mode (by pressing the
indicator lights up) or install valve 2 (see
“AOTO” button )
illustration 5.5) to the desired position, thus
closing the access of air into the interior from
the outside (see illustration)
5.14 Button for turning on air circulation in the

cabin
15. After this function is no longer needed,
the valve should be opened (or key A
pressed) to open access to fresh air from
outside. 5.18 Control panel of the automatic air
16. If, after parking the car for a long time conditioning system Note: The automatic
in the sun, the temperature in the cabin has operating mode is mainly intended not to
increased significantly simply supply conditioned air into the cabin,
• Open the windows for a few minutes to but to set a certain temperature in the cabin
ventilate the interior, then close them and reduce the level of air humidity.
again. Therefore, the air conditioning system
• Set temperature controller 4 to the indicator may light up intermittently.
20 . The optimal air temperature in the car
position of maximum cold air supply.
interior is about 22°C.
• Open the ventilation nozzles.
This temperature can constantly vary
• Set the air supply regulator 3 to position.
close to maximum. between 20*C and 24*C. 21. Automatic
operating mode is the main operating mode
• After establishing a sufficiently of the air conditioning system with automatic
comfortable temperature environment in
control. When you press the “A1)TO” key ,
the cabin, using air supply regulator 3 and
the indicator lights up on the display, the
temperature regulator 4, you can make it
automatic air control system in the car interior
even more comfortable.
is turned on , depending on the temperature
17. Regardless of the time of year, it is - you select, as well as based on from outside
recommended to turn on the air conditioning air temperature and outside light level
system in cool weather as it reduces air The system includes the following 5
humidity and prevents the windows from functions:
fogging up inside the car. • Air supply.
Note: Depending on the feeling of a particular • Air temperature in the cabin.
level of comfort. Air conditioning is carried out • Air distribution in the cabin.
by mixing portions of cold and heated air • Air recirculation inside the cabin.
using the air supply regulator 3. • Air conditioning.
To switch to manual control mode . press
System this key again
air conditioning with automatic Note: When the car starts moving . when the
regulation engine is not yet warmed up, in order to avoid
the intake of too large portions of cold air, the
э • 15 Руководство по эксплуатации
This function allows you to isolate the Diesel engine car • set the selector to position Z to engage
interior from the penetration of smoke, 4. Turn the ignition key to the ignition on reverse gear ,
burning and other foreign and unpleasant position and wait until the engine preheating • Move the selector to position M to switch
odors. As soon as this function is no longer indicator goes out. After that, turn on the to manual mode. The transition from position
needed, it should be turned off as soon as starter (for no more than 10 minutes), turning O (automatic mode) to position M ( manual
possible to ventilate the interior and prevent it off as soon as the engine starts 5. If you mode) can be made at any time (see
the windows from fogging up. were unable to start the engine with first illustration)
To do this, press the “AOTO” button or attempt, turn off the ignition, and then repeat
press the air recirculation button 23 again. all the steps from the beginning.
When you turn on the heating function for the 6. To make it easier to start the engine at
windshield and side windows, the indicator temperatures below °C, simultaneously
lights up and the corresponding icon appears depress the clutch pedal while turning on the
on the display. Using this function, you can starter. After starting the engine, gradually
quickly eliminate fogging or defrosting of the release it
windshield and side windows. At the same
For vehicles equipped with a diesel engine -
time, the air supply, its distribution and air
with a turbocharger: Never stop the engine
conditioning are automatically adjusted,
immediately, let it idle for a few more
creating comfortable climatic conditions for
seconds in order to equalize the speed of
the driver and passengers. To turn off the
the turbocharger with the engine speed.
function, press the “A11TO” key again
Under no circumstances should you
24. Your air conditioner is equipped with a “accelerate ” while turning off the ignition,
dust filter that captures dust and prevents this can lead to failure of the turbocharger.
foreign unpleasant odors from penetrating
Note: When starting the engine, do not press
into the vehicle's engine compartment.
the accelerator pedal .
The filter must be replaced in accordance
with the care and maintenance instructions. Gearbox control
6 Driving, AB5 and E5P systems, 7. The manual gearbox lever is located on
the center console (see illustration ).
driving safety
8. To select the appropriate gear, move the
lever in the indicated direction (see
Engine starting illustration) 9. Never engage reverse gear
1. When starting the engine, make sure that without stopping the car completely
the gear shift lever is in the neutral position To avoid the appearance of extraneous -
(in a car with a manual gearbox) or in the P noise, reverse gear should be engaged
or S position (in a car with an automatic smoothly, without jerking. A sound signal
gearbox (automatic transmission)). (Рр) confirms the engagement of reverse
gear 10. The automatic 4-speed transmission
A car with a gasoline engine 2. (automatic transmission) offers a choice of
Without pressing the accelerator pedal . the following modes
Turn the key in the ignition switch and turn • Automatic,
on the starter (for no more than 10 С60ЕТЫ
adaptive mode that
seconds), turning it off. as soon as the ЭКСПЕРТА automatically adapts the
engine starts. gearshift mode to your driving style.
3. To make it easier to start the engine at • Automatic, sequential mode, making it
temperatures below 0°C, simultaneously possible to change gears manually
depress the clutch pedal while turning on the • Automatic mode, with additional Sports
starter. After starting the engine, gradually (8rog1) and Winter (Ye/de) modes.
release it 11. After starting the engine with the
Note: If you fail to start the engine on the first selector lever in position P , press the brake
try, turn off the ignition, wait 10 seconds, and pedal to exit the P positions.
then try to start the engine again. • set the selector to position O, Z or M
Warning: Never run the engine in poorly • Set the selector to position O to switch to
A ventilated areas.
automatic mode.
6.7 Рычаг переключения передач 6.8 Переключение передач механи- 6.11 Селектор выбора режимов вож- механической
коробки передач ческой КПП дения при автоматической КПП
12. Automatic, adaptive operating mode of operate in higher gears, starting from a to the LIMITED position (OFF)
the automatic transmission - the selector is in minimum speed of 40 to 70 km/h, depending Note: Cruise control should not be used in
the O position . The automatic transmission on the engine type conditions that do not allow driving at a
constantly selects the gear shift mode that is The system controls are located on the constant speed, such as heavy traffic, poor
most adaptive to the following parameters steering wheel (see illustration} road surfaces, poor grip, or other difficult
• to driving style, 17. To turn on, set switch A to position Оы conditions .
• to the quality of the road surface, (ON)
• to the vehicle load. Shutdown: Set switch A to the RESET
In this case, the automatic transmission position (OFF)
operates in automatic adaptive mode .
without your participation in changing gears Selecting a constant speed
13. Automatic, sequential mode of 18. Press the accelerator pedal to reach the
automatic transmission - shifting four gears in desired speed Press (short press) button B
manual mode or C
• selector lever set to M position The speed you set is stored in the device’s
• To change to a higher gear, move the memory.
selector towards the “+” sign. You can change the speed you have set
• To shift to a lower gear , “-” towards the “- at any time by pressing the accelerator pedal
” sign. in order to exceed it (for example, to overtake 6.20 Key for changing programmed speed
The transition from position O (automatic another car) AVZ system - anti-lock braking
mode) to position M (manual mode) can be Release the gas. releasing the accelerator system 25. This system increases the
made at any time pedal, and the vehicle speed will decrease to
Note: Gear shifting can only be done if the degree of safety by preventing wheels from
the speed programmed
current vehicle speed and engine operating locking during sudden braking or in
mode allow this. conditions of poor grip on the road surface.
14. In the sequential (manual) gear shift The system also allows you to maintain
mode, it is impossible to use the additional - control over the vehicle's directional stability.
Sports (5rog1) and Winter (Ye>de) modes. The operating functions of all major
electrical components of the ABC system
Automatic mode, with additional are controlled by the electronic control
system, both before and while the vehicle is
Sports (8rog1) and Winter moving. The AVS system indicator lights up
(Ye/de) modes when the ignition is turned on and should go
15. Select driving mode out after a few seconds. If it does not go out,
• Orta/, normal driving mode , in which the this means that the AVZ system is turned off
indicators for sport and winter modes do due to some malfunction. The disconnection
not light up. 6.16 Cruise control buttons of the AVZ system is also indicated by the
• 5poH, “sport” mode, more dynamic, for stored in the cruise control memory. indicator that lights up while the car is
drivers with an active driving style. Briefly pressing key B will increase the moving. In both cases, the standard brake
• Le/de, “winter”, a smoother driving speed slightly. system continues to work, as in any car not
mode, more suitable for driving on Briefly pressing the C key will decrease equipped with an AVZ system. however, to
slippery roads. the speed slightly. restore the previous level of security.
• The automatic transmission selector is associated with the normal operation of the
Note: Pressing the brake or clutch pedal
set to position O. Press the button on the anti-lock brake system, you should have the
disables cruise control. car inspected at a CITROEN service station
instrument cluster and the “ Sports”
19. When the programmed speed is as soon as possible
driving mode indicator will light up .
exceeded, three beeps sound (b|p)
• The automatic transmission selector is
20. D ■ - to enter or change in the device’s
set to position O. Press the p ^ button .
memory the speed, when exceeded, a
On the instrument cluster, the “Winter” -
indicator will light up. warning signal will sound, after reaching this
ny" driving mode. speed, press (long press) the E key (see
• When you press the sports and winter illustration} A sound signal (Ір) will confirm
mode buttons again, the corresponding the execution of the given command
indicators on the instrument cluster go out. 21. By briefly pressing the C key you can
this means you are back in normal cancel this function.
"Noggle!" driving mode. 22. By holding down key B , you can
increase the programmed speed.
Note: Simultaneous flashing of the “5rog1” Release the key and the new programmed
and “He1de” indicators on the instrument speed value will be set.
cluster display indicates a problem with the 23. By holding the C key pressed, you can
system. In this case, the selector may be reduce the programmed programmed speed
difficult to move to the reverse position B. (not lower than the minimum speed value at
Contact a CITROEN service station. which the cruise control can operate).
Cruise control Release the key and the new programmed
speed value will be set
16. This device provides assistance when 24. The programmed speed can be
driving a car, automatically maintaining the canceled either by stopping the car after
constant speed you set. The device can only turning off the ignition, or by setting switch A
3 • 14 Руководство по эксплуатации
Note: Despite the fact that your car is adjusted and clean.
equipped with an AVZ system, you should be 34. Driving on broken roads can damage
especially careful on roads with slippery tires, rims, body sills, and also negatively
surfaces (gravel, snow and ice, etc.). affect the vehicle's chassis.
35. When driving on flooded roads, the
Stability control system EVR engine may "sip 1b of water." which will lead
26. This system is directly related to the to irreversible negative consequences
AVZ system and complements it. If the If you are caught in a flood or flooding, do
vehicle deviates from the trajectory set by the not try to continue driving as soon as the
driver, the EZR system automatically brakes water reaches the bottom of the body. Get
one or more wheels and also affects the out of the car and take cover in a safe place.
engine to correct the vehicle’s trajectory. 6.28 Button to turn on/off the EZR system -
27. When the EZR system is operating, the side lights, and in thick fog - fog lights and Under any circumstances you should:
EZR indicator lights up on the display on the rear fog lights. On wet and slippery roads, • Take children to a safe place.
instrument cluster. grip on the road surface is reduced. • Do not carry out any work on a car parked
28. In exceptional conditions (when especially when driving on tires with worn
tread on the edge of the roadway. If it is
starting off a car stuck in mud, snow, when absolutely necessary to carry them out,
When driving through deep puddles, there
driving with snow chains installed on the take all possible safety measures .
is a risk of aquaplaning, even if the vehicle's
wheels, when driving on loose soil, etc.) • Ask all passengers traveling with you to
tires are in good condition.
movement. In order to restore wheel
• As soon as the windshield wiper blades - get out of the car and move to a safe
engagement with the road when slipping ,
begin to leave streaks on the glass , they distance from the roadway (“safety
you may have to turn off the EZR system.
should be replaced. islands” and the side of the road are not
• Press the A key (see illustration)
• Be especially careful when the safe places).
• on the display on the instrument cluster ,
temperature drops to -3C and below -
indicating that the EZR system is disabled.
there is a danger of ice.
29. If a problem occurs in the system, the
When starting the engine in frosty
EЗР indicator lights up on the display on the
weather, do not turn on the windshield wiper
instrument cluster and a sound signal (b(p))
and washer system.
sounds
32. When driving on snow-covered roads,
To check the system, you should contact
a very low coefficient of adhesion to the road
specialists at a CITROEN service station.
surface negatively affects the control of the
Under normal driving conditions, the EZP
car: its traction characteristics, controllability
system significantly increases the degree of
and operation of the braking system
safety, however, its presence should not
In winter, it is recommended to use tires
encourage the driver to take reckless risks or
with winter tread M+5. When driving in winter,
drive at excessively high speeds.
try to drive the car smoothly, avoiding sudden
Reliable operation of this system is
acceleration and braking.
ensured by compliance with the -
Drive away smoothly, without wheel
requirements. requirements of the vehicle
slipping, so that the car does not skid
manufacturer for wheels (tires and rims),
Choose the right speed mode, limit
brake system elements, electronic
yourself to a moderate speed.
components, as well as for the quality of
33. On descents, use engine braking
technical operations carried out during
(engage in 1st or 2nd gear), brake as
vehicle repair and maintenance at a
smoothly as possible
CITROEN service station.
At the CITROEN service station you can
Note: If your car has been in a traffic purchase tires with winter tread and snow
accident, you should check the EZR system chains, which will provide you with the
at a CITROEN service station maximum degree of safety when driving in
Safety precautions when winter
operating a car Lighting and visibility
30. To make your car trips enjoyable and • When driving, ensure that your view from
hassle -free. and most importantly, safe, in the driver's seat is as efficient as possible
addition to the previous recommendations, .
we allow ourselves to give you a few • Keep your car windows , as well as the
additional, although not exhaustive, tips on exterior and interior rear-view mirrors
this topic. clean.
31. In rain and cold, keep your distance, • Make sure that the rear view mirrors are
slow down (in such weather conditions the adjusted correctly.
braking distance of the car increases), turn • Always have a set of spare lamps in your
on the car.
• External light signaling devices -
(headlights, lanterns) game-
They play an important role in your safety
and the safety of others, so it is necessary
that they are always in good condition,
• Put up an emergency stop sign and turn on the service station technical assistance
the emergency stop lights. service for help.
Безопасность - прежде всего! о • п
Working on a vehicle can be dangerous. • Have a fire extinguisher on hand suitable Asbestos
This page outlines only some of the potential for extinguishing fuel and electrical fires. • Asbestos dust is carcinogenic and can
risks and hazards to enhance your caution. cause cancer if inhaled or ingested. Asbestos
Electric shock
is found in some gaskets, as well as brake
General hazards • High voltage wires in the ignition system
and friction linings. Without knowing whether
can be dangerous,
scalding a particular component contains asbestos, it
especially for people
is safer to assume that it contains asbestos.
• Do not remove the radiator cap or with heart disease.
expansion tank until the engine has cooled Do not tamper with
down. the ignition system Specific hazards
• Engine oil, transmission fluid, and steering while the engine is Hydrogen fluoride
fluid may also be dangerously hot if the running. • This extremely toxic and corrosive -
engine has recently been run. • Mains voltage is substance is formed when certain types of
Burns also dangerous . synthetic rubbers, from which some o-rings,
Make sure network devices are properly cuffs, fuel hoses, etc. are made, are heated
• Any part of the engine poses a risk of
grounded. The power supply to the circuit above 400°C. When charred, rubber turns
burns, especially its exhaust system. Parts of
must be protected by a reverse current relay into a substance containing fluoric acid. This
the brake system may be hot immediately
(RCR) acid does not decompose and remains
after braking.
Poisoning by vapors or gas. dangerous for many years. If this acid gets on
Car collapse the skin, it is sometimes necessary to
Vita, they usually contain carbon monoxide,
• When working under or next to a raised amputate the affected organ.
which can be fatal if inhaled. Never run the
vehicle , always securely support it or use a • If you have to work with a machine or parts
engine for long periods of time in an
platform. or inspection hole damaged by fire. removed from such a
enclosed area, such as a garage with the
Never work under a vehicle supported only door closed. vehicle, use protective gloves. Destroy them
by a jack! after use.
• Обработанные газы ядо
• Be careful when loosening or
• Fumes from fuel
Battery
tightening high-torque • The battery contains sulfuric acid .
and various solvents
fasteners while the hazardous to clothing, eyes and skin. Be
used for cleaning
vehicle is on careful when loading or carrying the battery.
and thinning paints
stands. Initial • Hydrogen, which may be released from
are also poisonous.
loosening and the battery, is a highly explosive substance.
final tightening Poisonous and Do not use open flames or sparks near the
in such cases is
irritating battery.
recommended
with the vehicle
substances Airbags • An airbag can cause injury if it
lowered. • Avoid skin contact with the electrolyte and deploys unexpectedly. Be careful when
any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially removing the steering wheel and/or
Fire antifreeze, brake fluid and diesel fuel. Do not instrument panel. Follow the instructions for
• Fuel is flammable: fuel vapors are overfill them by sucking from the hose. If you handling the airbag.
explosive accidentally swallow any liquid or get it into
• Do not allow fuel to leak onto hot engine your eyes, consult a doctor immediately. Diesel fuel equipment
surfaces. • Prolonged contact with used engine oil • Diesel fuel pumps create very high fuel
• Do not smoke or use open flames near the can cause skin cancer. If necessary, use pressure. Be careful when working with fuel
vehicle if any repair work is being carried out rubber gloves or protective hand cream. Do injectors and pumps
on it. Take precautions against sparks that not wear oil-soaked clothing or keep oily rags
Warning: Never expose your hands, face
may come from electrical appliances or in your pocket.
plumbing tools • Air conditioner refrigerant may form a
• Fuel vapor is heavier than air, so do not poisonous gas if it comes into contact with an
A or any other part of your body to the flow
of fuel from the injector; fuel can -
penetrate the skin with potentially fatal
work on the fuel system in an inspection hole. open flame (including a cigarette). It may also
consequences.
• Another cause of fire is an overload or cause skin burns upon contact.
short circuit in the electrical wiring circuits.
Use caution when repairing or replacing
electrical equipment.
□•г Дорожный ремонт
The following pages are designed to help you cope with unexpected breakdowns that may arise along the way. More detailed
descriptions of troubleshooting can be found at the end of the manual and in the corresponding chapters
If the engine does not start and the starter does not turn If the engine does not start although the starter is
> If the model has an automatic transmission, make sure that the working normally
selector is in position P or S
> Is there fuel in tank 9
> Open the hood and make sure the battery terminal clamps are
Are the electrical components under the hood damp ? Turn off the
clean and tight.
ignition and wipe any obviously damp areas with a dry cloth. Spray
> Turn on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the
a water-repellent aerosol (770-40 or equivalent) onto the ignition
headlights dim noticeably when you turn on the starter, it means the
and fuel system control circuit connectors. which are shown in the
battery is faulty. probably discharged. Get out of this situation by
photographs (Note that diesel engines are not usually affected by
starting the engine from an external source, for example from your
humidity)
friend's car (see next page)
D Remove the plastic cover and check

the safety and quality of the battery
connection.
IN Make sure that the connectors of the
ignition system used on your car are
securely connected (shown on 1.6-liter
gasoline engine)
WITH Make sure the generator
Убедитесь, что разъемы имеют хороший контакт (при выключенном зажигании)

и, если Вы подозреваете, что они отсырели, распылите на них водопоглощающий
О Убедитесь, что все плавкие пре-
аэрозоль типа \Л/0-40 дохранители в хорошем состоя
нии и ни один не перегорел.
connectors are securely connected.

Дорожный ремонт О•3
Запуск двигателя от вспомогательного аккумулятора Starting from an

При запуске двигателя от постороннего аккумулятора, соблюдайте следующие ВЗДЕТЫ external source
предосторожности EKPEVT4 will
temporarily solve your problem, but it is
important to find out the reason that led to the
Before connecting a third-party battery, Make sure the gear is in neutral (or PARK battery discharge. There may be three such
make sure the ignition is turned off. on an automatic transmission)
reasons: -4 The battery could be discharged
Make sure all electrical equipment (lights, due to numerous attempts to start the engine
heater, windshield wipers, etc.) is turned off or because the lights were not turned off.
✓ Observe all warnings printed on the battery
housing
2The charging system is not working
properly (slack or broken alternator drive
belt, faulty alternator or alternator wiring)
Подключите один конец красного Battery is faulty (low electrolyte density or
3
соединительного провода к
damaged plates)
положительной (+) клемме раз- Connect the other end of the black wire to
ряженного аккумулятора. some bracket for the starting engine, away
from the battery. Make sure the wires do not
Make sure the external battery has the Подключите второй конец крас-
same voltage as your ного провода к положительной (+)
U If the battery of another vehicle is used as клемме постороннего акку-
a third party, the vehicles MUST NOT мулятора.
TOUCH each other a. Подключите один конец черного
соединительного провода к от-
рицательной (-) клемме посто-
роннего аккумулятора.
touch the fan, drive belts, or other

moving engine parts.
Start the engine from a foreign battery
and let it reach a stable idle speed.
Turn on the headlights, heated rear
window and heater fan , then
disconnect the wires in reverse order.
Turn off lights, etc.
□•г Дорожный ремонт
Wheel replacement
Warning: Do not change a tire in a situation where you risk being hit by a passing vehicle. On busy roads, try to stop in parking areas
A or on side ramps. The work can keep you busy , but keep an eye on passing traffic while changing a tire .
Preparation
0If a tire punctures, stop the car as quickly 0 Set up an emergency sign . if you have 0 Place something under the ks e-so,
as possible, as far as the road conditions one, to warn other drivers. located diagonally from the one being
allow. 0 Use the handbrake (or shift the automatic replaced. For example, a couple of large
0 If possible, stop on a firm, level surface : skirt IN POSITION 1 RARC) stones.
with the vehicle off the road 0 If a car with w. • - in lumps of soil, place a
0 If necessary, turn on the hazard warning board under the sole of the jack.
lights
Wheel replacement
■ The spare tire and tools ■ are located in

the trunk. Lift the carpet, unfasten the 2 Remove the wheel hub/disc cover
(depending on equipment). On models 3 Using a wheel wrench, lightly loosen
each wheel bolt. On models with alloy
with anti-theft bolts, remove the plastic cap wheels, use a special tool to remove the
securing strap and remove the tool kit and
jack from the spare tire. Remove the spare using the plastic tool included in the kit, then locking nuts.
tire. unscrew the anti-theft bolt using the special
tool.
4 Make sure the jack is placed on a solid

surface and place it under the 5 Unscrew the bolt and remove the wheel
from. Place the wheel under the car in 6When tightening the bolts firmly,
maintain a diagonal sequence. After
designated area of the body (indicated by a case the car comes off the jack. Install the this, install the wheel cap/rim cover/wheel
triangle). Raise the vehicle until the wheel spare wheel and screw in the bolts. Pull the bolt cover (depending on the configuration)
leaves the ground. bolts by hand as far as possible and lower
the vehicle.
In conclusion...
0 Remove the stoppers from under the wheel
0 Place the jack and tools* in the car in the designated places
0 Check the tire pressure only '40 tire installation I. Whether it's too low or you don't have
a pressure gauge, drive slowly to the nearest tire shop and inflate your tire to the correct
pressure.
0 Repair the damaged wheel as soon as possible
Дорожный ремонт О•3
What do the smudges mean?

Stains on the bottom of the garage, moisture plug... The smell of a leak can
on the floor of the hood or under the car Warning: Most automobile oils and «Э6ЕТЫ tell you what exactly is
clearly indicate a leak, the source of which
must be identified. Sometimes this source is A fluids are poisonous. If you get it on
your skin, wash it off immediately, and
ЭКСПЕРТА leaking. Some liquids
have a characteristic
difficult to determine, especially if the engine if it gets on your clothes, change clothes. color. It is helpful to thoroughly wash the car
has not been washed for a long time. The and place a sheet of clean paper under it
trace of an oil or liquid leak can be displaced overnight to determine the source of the
by the air flow under the car, giving a false leak.
impression . where is the source of the leak. Keep in mind that some leaks may only
occur when the engine is running.
steering fluid Transmission oil

Oil on the pallet Liquid may leak from the fittings on the rack Transmission oil may leak from the seals on
Engine oil may leak out from under the drain housing. the inner ends of the drive shafts.
Brake fluid Oil under filter Antifreeze
Any leaks found on the wheels are almost Leaking antifreeze often leaves crystalline
...или из-под масляного фильтра.
certainly brake fluid . deposits like this.
exceed (50 km). Failure to comply with these
Towing requirements may result in gearbox failure
As a last resort, you can get to mine in tow - due to insufficient lubrication. If in doubt, it is
or you may find yourself in the role of a tower. better to refuse towing so as not to risk it.
Towing over long distances should only be 0 Please note that you will have to apply
carried out by professionals from the service more force than usual to the brake pedal,
department. Towing over shorter distances, since the vacuum booster only functions
you can easily handle it yourself, but you when the engine is running.
must follow the following rules: And use a
0 The steering effort will also increase .
proper tow rope - it's not that expensive. The
towed vehicle must be driven with its side 0 The driver of the towed vehicle must
lights on. always keep the tow rope taut to avoid
0 Turn the ignition key to the Op (on) position jerking.
to unlock the steering column and allow the 0 Before towing begins, both drivers must
brake lights and turn signals to operate. agree on the route.
0Attach the tow rope only to the lugs 0 Drive at moderate speeds and maintain the
specifically designed for this purpose. They specified towing distance. Drive smoothly
are located in the tool box in the trunk and with plenty of time to slow down.
are screwed into special places at the front
or rear of the car body.
0 Before towing, release the handbrake and
place the vehicle in neutral.
When towing cars with an automatic
transmission and the front wheels not
suspended, the towing speed should be
limited (50 km/h) and the distance should not
о•в Еженедельные проверки
Introduction
There are several very simple checks. which electrical equipment. Short, regular checks
take only a few minutes, but can save you will help avoid most problems, especially
from great inconvenience and expense. those often related to the battery .
"Weekly Checks" listed below : do not require 0 It may happen that the first time you think
serious skills or special tools . You will spend about leaking brake fluid is when the brakes
very little time on them, but. it will certainly be stop working normally. Regularly checking
money well spent. For example: 0 Monitoring the fluid level will warn you about this kind of
problem in advance.
the condition of your tires and their pressure
will not only prevent their premature wear, 0 If the oil or coolant level drops, it is much
but will also help save your life. cheaper to detect and repair such a leak in
0 Many failures occur due to problems with time than to repair the entire engine later
Места проверок под капотом

<^=1 1.1и 1.4-литровые
бензиновые двига-
тели (подобные 1.6
литровым)
ДЩуп проверки уровня масла в

двигателе
В Крышка заливной горловины

для масла
С Расширительный бачок
хладагента
О Бачок тормозной сцепления и

тормозной системы
РРБачок
Аккумулятор
омывателя
<С=1 1.4-литровые ди-

зельные двигатели с
16 клапанами (по-
добные 1.4-литровым
с 8 клапанами)
ДЩуп проверки уровня масла в
двигателе
В Крышка заливной горловины

для масла
С Расширительный бачок
хладагента
О Бачок сцепления и тормозной

Бачок омывателя
системы
Еженедельные проверки О•7
Engine oil level

Before the trip
✓ Make sure the car is on a level surface
✓ Check the oil level before starting the
engine or at least 5 minutes after the engine
has been turned off.
Oil brand
Modern engines are very sensitive to the
brand of oil being poured. It is very important
to fill the engine with the brand of oil ■4 Щуп для измерения уровня I масла remove it again.
recommended by the manufacturer (see часто ярко окрашен для удобства
section “Fuels , lubricants and operating обнаружения. Извлеките щуп.
fluids”)
Prevention
0 If you have to constantly add oil to the
engine, check for leaks. To do this, place a
sheet of clean paper under the engine
overnight and check its condition in the
morning. If there are no leaks, this may
mean. that the oil burns in the engine due to
wear of the o-rings
Oil is added through the filler neck. Unscrew
0 Always maintain the oil level between the
the filler cap and add oil; using a funnel will
upper and lower marks of the dipstick (see
reduce the risk of spilling. Add oil slowly,
illustration 3). If the level is too low, very
oil is required for gasoline engines, or 1.8 checking the level on the dipstick. Do
serious malfunctions can occur. High levels
liters for diesel engines. not overfill (see "Prevention")
are just as harmful - they can lead to failure
of the sealing lips.
If the oil level is measured immediately after
Warning: Do not attempt to remove the Prevention stopping the engine, some of the oil will not
expansion tank cap while the engine is 0 A closed cooling system does not require yet have time to drain from the top of the
A hot - you may be scalded. Do not leave regular addition of fluid . If you have to do this engine, and the dipstick will show a low level.
the coolant container open for a long often, there are probably leaks in the system. 0 It is important to use antifreeze in the
time as it is poisonous. Check the radiator, all hoses and connectors ШЕТЫ cooling system all year
Z Using the marks on the end of the for signs of leaks. If a leak is found, repair it
Уровень охлаждающей жидкости

ЭКСПЕРТА round, not just during
the winter months. Do
not add water to the system as the refrigerant
dipstick, check the oil level, which should be as soon as possible.
will lower the boiling point and increase the
between the upper (MAX) and lower (M1I)
marks. To increase the level from the lower 2 Using a clean rag or paper towel, wipe
the oil off the dipstick. Insert the clean
to the upper mark, approximately 1.5 liters of dipstick into the tube as far as it will go, then
freezing point.
✓ 4 Coolant level I depends on

temperature. The level is checked in the 3
it
tank until the coolant level reaches the
MAX mark. Screw on the cap by turning
clockwise until it stops.
expansion tank . which is located on the right
in the engine compartment. When the engine
is cold, the coolant level should be between
the MAX and M1L marks.
2 If refueling is necessary, wait until the

engine has cooled . After this, slowly
turn the expansion tank cap
counterclockwise and wait until the system
releases steam. Unscrew and remove the
cap completely.
Add antifreeze solution to the expansion
О•8 Еженедельные проверки
Fluid level in the washer reservoir

0 Windshield washer fluid contains additives
that not only keep your windshield clean in
bad weather, but also prevent your washer
system from freezing up in cold weather -
which is when you probably use it most. Do
not add clean water to the washer reservoir
as this will over-dilute the washer fluid and
the system may freeze in cold weather.
Warning: Never use antifreeze in the
A windshield washer system - this may

cause
G The washer reservoir is located in the
front right side of the engine - 2
compartment. If refilling is necessary, open
the lid.
When refilling, add special washer fluid in

the proportion recommended in the
instructions on the bottle.
damage the paint.
Transmission and brake fluid levels

Warning: • Make sure the vehicle
0 Brake fluid is hazardous to eyes сесвты is level.
and paintwork. Be careful when ЭКСПЕРТА • The fluid level in the
carrying and pouring it. reservoir will drop slightly
0 Do not use fluid that has been left open for as the brake pads wear, but never allow it to
a long time, as it may lose braking drop below the MM mark.
effectiveness by absorbing moisture from the
air.
On the tank located in front of the

vacuum booster in
2
Before refilling, wipe the area around
the filler neck with a clean cloth. Then
remove the cover. When adding liquid, keep
engine compartment, marked MAX and
an eye on the reservoir. If dirt is noticed in
M1Y. The liquid level should be between
them. the fluid, the system should be drained and
refilled (see Chapter 9)
О•8 Еженедельные проверки
Safety comes first!

0 If constant topping up is required . this
indicates fluid leakage from the system.
Immediately determine the cause of the
leakage
0 If you suspect such a leak, do not operate
the vehicle until the brake system has been
checked . Never take risks when it comes to
brakes.
3 Carefully pour in the liquid.

avoiding spilling it on nearby
painted elements. Use only fluid
recommended for the hydraulic system;
mixing different types of fluid may damage
the system and/or reduce braking
performance. Once filled to the specified
level, screw the cap securely and wipe up
any spilled liquid.
□ • по Еженедельные проверки
Tire condition
It is very important that the tires are in already been punctured, stick the nail back arise again as they wear out, or if the
good condition and that they have the correct in to mark the puncture site. Then balancing weight comes off the rim.
pressure - a tire blowout at any speed is very immediately replace the wheel and have the Unbalanced tires wear out faster, and
dangerous. Tire wear depends on driving tire repaired at a tire shop. Check your tires imbalance also causes more wear on
style - sharp braking and acceleration, or fast regularly for cuts or bulges, especially on the steering and suspension parts. Wheel
cornering lead to rapid tire wear. As a rule, sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels imbalance is usually accompanied by
front tires wear out faster than rear tires. and clean them from dirt on both sides. vibration, especially at a certain speed
Changing the front and rear tires promotes Check the wheel rims for signs of corrosion (usually about 80 km per hour). If this
more even wear. However, at the same time, or other damage. Light alloy wheels are easy vibration is felt only on the steering wheel,
to you. You'll end up having to spend money to damage on curbs when parking; steel then. Probably, only the front wheels need
on all four new tires at once. Remove any wheels may also be crushed. If the damage balancing. If the entire car is subject to
nails or rocks stuck in the tread . before they is serious, the only option is to buy a new vibration, then most likely the rear wheels are
damage the tire and allow air to escape. If, drive unbalanced. Wheel balancing is carried out
when removing the nail, the tire appears to New tires should be balanced during at service stations and tire shops.
have installation. The need to balance tires may
-< Tread depth -

■ visual inspection 2 Tread depth - manual check
Another way to monitor tire wear is by
3 Checking tire pressure
Check your tire pressure regularly when
New tires have indicator strips indicating the using a simple, inexpensive device known as they are cold. Do not adjust tire pressure
degree of tread nose (B), which appear a tread depth gauge. immediately after driving for a long time, as
when the tread depth drops to approximately this may cause inaccuracy.
1.6 mm. The location of the stripes is
indicated by a triangular mark on the
sidewall (A)
Еженедельные проверки о • 11
Typical examples of tire wear
Tread edge wear Uneven wear Middle tread wear

Insufficient tire pressure (wear on both Front tires may wear unevenly due to Overpressure
sides) misaligned wheels. Most tire shops and Excessive pressure leads to accelerated
Insufficient tire pressure causes
service stations can check and adjust wheel wear of the central part of the tread,
overheating, as it increases elasticity and the
alignment for a small fee. accompanied by reduced traction, harsher
tread does not contact the road properly.Suspension faults driving and the risk of the tire cord breaking
This leads to reduced traction and excessive
Repair or replace suspension parts . when the wheel hits an obstacle
wear, not to mention the risk of sudden tire
Unbalanced wheels Balance the wheels.
blowout. Check and adjust pressure. When it
Broken toe angle
Check and adjust tire pressure. Adjust the toe-in of the front wheels. becomes necessary to inflate tires to higher
Incorrect wheel position (wear on one Note: A sharp tread edge , indicating pressures recommended for maximum
side) improper alignment, is easier to detect by vehicle loads or when driving for a long time
Repair or replace suspension components. touch. at high speeds, do not forget to then restore
Taking corners at high speed the normal pressure level.
Slow down!
Electrical equipment EXPERT If you don't have a -

helper, check your
sect brake lights.
/ Check all external lights and signal. Refer U Visually check all accessible connectors,
to the appropriate sections in Chapter 12 if harnesses and their fastenings, make sure You can do this by placing the car's back
any circuits appear to be inoperative. they are secure, and pay attention to the against the wall and pressing the brake
appearance of abrasions or other damage pedal. By the reflected light you will
understand whether they are working
properly.
■4 If any of the direction indicators, side

lights, brake lights, or headlights stop 2 If several turn signals or parking lights
fail , the problem is likely due to a blown
fuse or faulty circuit (see Chapter 12). The
3 To replace a blown fuse, remove it from
its socket using a special plastic tool.
Install a new fuse with the same
working , this most likely indicates a burnt-
out lamp that should be replaced. This is fuses are located in the block under the parameters - fuses are sold in automotive
discussed in more detail in Chapter 12. If cover, in the passenger compartment on stores. It is important to find the cause of
both brake lights do not work, it is possible the driver's side, as well as in the engine the blown fuse (see “Short Circuit” in
that the brake light switch, which is compartment (see Chapter 12) Chapter 12)
controlled by the brake pedal, has failed . -
Refer to Chapter 9.
□ • по Еженедельные проверки
Battery
Warning: Before working on the battery, read
the safety instructions in the "Safety First"
section. at the beginning of this guide.
Make sure the battery tray is in good
condition and that the battery mount is
securely tightened. Marks: Corrosion on the
tray, mount and the battery itself can be
removed with a thief of water and baking
soda. Rinse all cleaned surfaces thoroughly
with water Any metal parts damaged by
corrosion should be coated with a zinc-
containing primer and then painted / To ensure good electrical contact, the
Periodically (approximately every three terminal clamps must be tightened.
months) check the density of the electrolyte Check them with your hand: they
in the battery, as described in Chapter 5A should not move. Also check each wire to see
if it is cracked or frayed.
If the battery is discharged, you will have
to resort to starting the engine from an
auxiliary battery (■■when smoking!,-). see
section -Road Repair "
sedets
EXPERT If traces of corrosion are visible
(white loose deposits), remove the
wires from the battery terminals, clean them
with a small wire brush, then reconnect them
. Car dealerships sell a special tool for
cleaning battery terminals.
Corrosion on the battery can be minimized by

coating the terminals and terminal clamps
with a layer of grease after connecting the
battery.
-y The battery is located on the left ■ side of
the engine compartment in a plastic case. To
4
gain access to the battery, fold the case back
at the front . Periodically inspect the external
condition of the battery, checking for cracks
in the case or cover
. and terminal clamps on wires
Wiper blades
-a Check the condition of the windshield cracked, show signs of wear, or leave
wiper blades: if their rubber blades are uncleaned areas on the glass, replace them.
Wiper blades should be replaced annually
2
To remove the windshield wiper blade ,
pull the arm away from the glass as
much as possible until it locks into place.
Еженедельные проверки о • 11
Rotate the brush 90". Then, pressing the

latch with your finger, slide the brush out of
the hook at the end of the leash.
3 Move the brush down to release it from
the hook on the leash and remove it by
hand. Don't forget to check the rear window
wiper blade (where equipped)
□ • p g Fuels and lubricants, operating fluids and tire pressure monitoring
Fuels, lubricants and operating fluids
Engine
Gasoline synthetic or semi-synthetic all-season motor oil, elm
bone 8AE 5^-40 or 10UU-40 (AP1 8N/83 and/or ACEA AZ E88O ICRA/YUNOY or TOTAI
O0ART2)
Diesel synthetic or semi-synthetic all-season motor oil, elm

bone 8AE 10\A/-40 (AP! SE/SE and/or ACEA VZ: E8B0 1LTRA 0P8E1 or YUTA1.
0OAYAT2 013E17000)
Cooling system antifreeze solution based on ethylene glycol (RNOSORTM Yu8, (ZitAMIM
633 or REUCOSE 2000) in deionized water
Manual transmission only E83O VU 75UU-80UU or TOTA TRA^8MII88IO^ VU 75UU-8O
Automatic transmission only E88О ATE 4НР20-А64
Brake hydraulic system reservoir brake fluid ZAEL 703. SOT 4
Tire pressure
Note: The latest tire suppression recommendations can be found on the label on the left front door pillar. These recommendations apply
to the original tires on your vehicle. Depending on the type and brand of tires, the pressure may change and may not be as specified.
Consult your tire manufacturers or suppliers if necessary.
Front Rear
Все модели 2.1 бар 21 бар

ПА • П
Chapter 1 Section A:
Daily care and maintenance of models with gasoline
engines
Subsection number
Content Checking and adjusting the hand brake .................................. 13
Subsection number Checking the exhaust gas control system. 14
General information ................................................................. 1 Checking the steering and suspension .................................... 15
Intensive Maintenance ............................................................. 2 Replacing the timing belt ......................................................... 16
Changing the engine oil and oil filter ...................................... 3 Replacing brake fluid .............................................................. 17
Checking fluid leaks ................................................................. 4 Replacing spark plugs ............................................................. 18
Checking the condition of the protective covers of drive shafts Replacing the filter element in the air filter .............................. 19
and CV joints. .......................................................................... 5 Checking the transmission oil level in a manual transmission . 20
Checking and lubricating the mechanisms of locks, hinges and Checking the transmission fluid level .....................................21
latches ..................................................................................... 6 Checking the exhaust system ................................................22
Run test ................................................................................. 7 Replacing coolant ................................................................... 23
Resetting the service indicator. . 8 Air bags and seat belts ............................................................ 24
Checking the fine air filter . 9
Checking and replacing the accessory drive belt ................... 10
Checking the condition of the brake pads. .. 11
Checking the wear of the rear brake pads .......... 12
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, affordable Quite easy Enough Difficult, d. Very difficult, d.
newbie with §3® available for difficult, available very accessible 3^
minimal beginner available experienced experienced
experience with a little competent mechanics _ mechanics or Z^g
experience mechanics " professional,
1А • 5 Основные данные для проведения сервисных работ - модели с бензиновыми двигателями
Fuels, lubricants and operating fluids

см. конец раздела «Еженедельные
проверки»на странице 0-16
Volumes
Motor oil
Including filter .............................................. .
The difference between MAX and M1M on the dipstick ...................................................... 3 5 литра
1.4 литра
Cooling system ....... ............................................. 7.0 литров
Transmission Manual ....................................................................................... ...... ..........
Automatic 2.0 литра
Secondary filling after draining ..................................................................... ..
Dry pouring ...................................................................................................................... 4.5 литра
Fuel tank .................................................. 6.0 литров
45литров
Engine
Pre-tension the drive belt (using a belt tensioning tool - see text) New belt .....................
.................................... ...
Belt used ................................................................ .......................................................
Cooling system 120 условных единиц

Antifreeze solution 50% solution.. ...................................................................................... 60 - 80 условных единиц
Note : check the indicators according to the antifreeze instructions.
Ignition system
Spark plug. нижний предел -35'С
1 .1 and 1.4 liter engine ..............................................................................................
2 6 liter engine ............................................................................................................

Interelectrode gap. ..........................................................................................................
ВозсП РР70Е, СПетрюп РС8УС1 или
Brake system Задет РР^58^2
Minimum thickness of brake pad linings... ............................................. . ....................... ВовсП РР7МР или Задет РРИ58Н2 0.9
мм
Tire pressure
2 0 мм
Tightening torques for threaded connections
Generator mounting bolts ............................... ................................................................ см. в конце раздела «Еженедельные
Automatic transmission проверки»на стр 0-13
Filler plug ......................................................................................................................... Н/м
Level plug
37
24
24
25
25
90
25
30
........................................................................................................................................... Mechanical box

Filler/level plug ......................................................................................................... .
Oil filter ..................................... ......................................................................................
Wheel bolts......................................................................................................................
Spark plug .......................................................................................................................
Engine sump drain plug ...................................................................................................
График обслуживания - бензиновые модели 1А • з
Note: The service intervals given in the you can perform some of the maintenance at low speeds (the engine idles a lot during
Manual assume that the work is carried out procedures more often. Frequent servicing city driving), or travels short distances, more
by the vehicle owner himself. is a good thing because it has a positive frequent service intervals are
These are the minimum intervals - impact on the vehicle's performance and recommended.
recommended by the manufacturer for daily resale price. If the vehicle is driven in dusty To maintain the factory warranty, a new
vehicle operation. If you want to keep your conditions, constantly tows a trailer, or vehicle must be serviced only at a
vehicle in excellent condition at all times, frequently travels manufacturer's station.
Every 400 km or weekly Every 60,000 km

0 See section “Weekly checks - 0 Replace timing belt
(Subsection 16)
Note: Although the accepted timing belt replacement interval is
Every 15,000 km, 120,000 km or 10 years, we recommend reducing it to 60,000
but at least once a year km, especially on vehicles with intensive use (short but frequent
trips, long driving distances, etc. .) The actual belt replacement
0 Change the engine oil and oil filter (Section 3) interval is set by the owner, but remember that if the belt breaks,
0 Check all gaskets and hoses for leaks (Section 4) serious damage to the engine can occur.
0 Check the condition of the protective covers of the drive
shafts and CV joints (Subsection 5)
Every 60,000 km, but at least once every two years
0 Lubricate all hinges and locks (Section 6)
0 Carry out a mileage test (Section 7) 0 Change the brake fluid (Section 17) Note: The clutch shares a
0 Reset the service interval indicator (Section 8) reservoir with the brake system and also requires bleeding.
Note: CNN recommends changing the engine oil and filter every
30,000 km or every two years. However, oil and filter changes Every 60,000 km, but at least once every two years
are good for the engine and we recommend changing more
0 Replace spark plugs (Section 18)
frequently, especially if the vehicle is driven on many short trips.
0 Replace the air cleaner filter element (Section 19)
0 Check the transmission oil level
Every 30,000 km, but at least every two years 0 Check in a manual transmission (Division 20)
the fine air filter 0 Lubricate all hinges and locks (Section 6)
(Subsection 9) 0 Check the transmission fluid level
in automatic transmission (Division 21)
0 Check the tension of the drive belt (Section 10)
0 Check the exhaust emission control system
0 Check the condition of the brake pads (Section 11)
0 Replace the coolant (Section 23) Note: The cooling system is
0 Check the condition of the rear brake pads - for models with
initially “filled-for-life” and does not require regular renewal.
rear drum brakes (Section 12)
0 Check the operation of the handbrake (Section 13) 0 Check
the condition of the exhaust system (Section 14) Every ten years
0 Check the condition of the suspension and steering 0 Replace airbags and seat belt tensioners (Section 24)
components (Section 15)
1А • 4 Расположение компонентов - модели
с бензиновыми двигателями
View of the engine compartment of the 1.4-liter model (similar to the 1.1 liter)
1 Engine oil filler cap

2 Engine oil level dipstick
3 Oil filter
4 Air purifier
5 Battery
6 Fuse and relay box
7 Brake and transmission
fluid reservoir
8 Cooling system expansion
tank
9 Washer reservoir
10 Fine air filter housing
View of the engine

compartment of the 1.6-liter model

2 Engine oil level dipstick
3 Oil filter
4 Air purifier
5 Battery
fluid reservoir
8 Cooling system expansion
tank
9 Washer reservoir
Расположение компонентов - модели с
бензиновыми двигателями 1А • 5
Bottom view of the front part of the body

1 Пробка для слива моторного
масла
2 Компрессор кондиционера 3
Каталитический конвертер
4 Электрический
вентилятор радиатора
5 Пробка для заливки
и контроля уровня
трансмиссионного масла
для автомобилей с
механической коробкой
6 Суппорты тормозов
7 Нижние рычаги подвески
8 Передний подрамник
9 Приводные валы ШРУСов
10 Усилитель переднего
подрамника
11 Шарнир рулевой тяги
12 Соединитель
стабилизатора поперечной
устойчивости
Bottom view of the rear body

1 Fuel tank
2 Anti-roll bar
3 Rear axle beam
4 Shock absorbers
5 Springs
6 Muffler
7 Handbrake cable
1А • Б Процедуры обслуживания - бензиновые двигатели
program is preparation for operation. which is data indicates significant wear of engine
supposed to be carried out. Read all sections parts, then the standard maintenance
of the manual that apply to the work you are procedures outlined in this Chapter will not
going to do, then make a list and prepare all particularly improve its operation, and you
the tools and spare parts you may need. If will only waste time and money until you carry
1. The purpose of this Chapter is to help the
problems arise, consult a spare parts out serious repairs (see Chapter 2C) 4. A
“home” mechanic extend the life of the car,
specialist or authorized service station. series of measures to “improve ” a poorly
preserve its qualities that affect safety,
functioning engine
efficiency and other characteristics 2. Intensive Maintenance
2. The chapter contains a basic First of all:
maintenance schedule, followed by sections
a) Clean, inspect and test the battery (see
that describe the individual activities. The
Weekly Checks)
Chapter includes information on visual 1. If the daily maintenance schedule has
b) Check all operating fluids related to the
inspections, adjustments, replacement of been accurately followed since the purchase
engine (see “Weekly checks”)
parts and other useful topics. Refer to the of the new vehicle, the levels of all operating
в) Check the condition of all pipelines and
corresponding illustrations of the engine fluids and the degree of wear of parts are
determine if there are any leaks of
compartment and body below to determine constantly monitored as recommended in
operating fluids (see subsection 4)
the location of certain components. this Manual, then the engine should be in г) Check the condition and tension of the
3. If you keep your maintenance scheduled quite good working order, and the need for
drive belts of the auxiliary units (see
based on the mileage/time traveled, based some additional work will be reduced to a
subsection 10) e) replace the spark plugs
on the information in the following sections, minimum. • (see subsection 18)
the result will be a long life for your vehicle. 2. There may be cases where the engine f) Check the condition of the air cleaner filter
Our plan is comprehensive, so fulfilling some performs poorly precisely because of a lack element and replace it if necessary (see
points of the service program and not fulfilling of constant care. This is more likely in the subsection 19)
others will affect the final result case of purchasing a used car that has not
4. As you service your car, you will received regular and frequent care. In this 5. If the above steps are ineffective, try the
understand that many procedures can and situation, additional work may be required following.
should be combined into groups, depending beyond normal routine maintenance. Secondly:
on the type of work being performed or due 3. If engine wear is suspected , performing
Carry out all the specified priority operations,
to the close proximity of components that are a compression test (see Chapter 2A) can
supplementing them with the following:
not technically related to each other. For provide valuable information about the
а) Check the battery charging system
example. if for any reason the car was raised, condition of key piston components. This
(Chapter 5A)
you can inspect not only the suspension and information can serve as the basis for making
б) Check the ignition system (Chapter 5B)
steering, but also the muffler. a decision on the amount of work required. If, в) Check the fuel system (Chapter 4 A)
5. The first step in the maintenance for example, compression measurement
Every 15,000 km or annually
3 Changing the oil and oil protect against skin irritation that may be
filter caused by harmful substances contained in
the exhaust. secret motor oil Raise the
vehicle to a sufficient height and place it on
support stands (see section “Lifting the
Note: To unscrew the drain plug of the pan, vehicle with a jack and placing it on stands”}
use a special square wrench. Such a key can Make sure the vehicle is level or, if it is at an
be purchased at car dealerships or car angle, the engine oil drain plug should be
dealerships. located at the lowest point
1. Periodic replacement of engine oil and 3. Unscrew the bolts and remove the
filter are very important preventive measures engine protection, if equipped.
that can be carried out by the owner 4. Some engines have a protective metal
independently. During operation, the oil plate bolted to the pan above the drain plug
becomes contaminated and loses viscosity, (see illustration] Unscrew the plug without
which leads to premature engine wear removing the plate , possibly only if there is
2. Before starting work, prepare all the

necessary tools and materials. You should
also have enough clean rags and old
newspapers on hand so that you can wipe up
spilled oil. Ideally, the engine oil should be
warm, as this will allow it to drain better and
remove more deposits. However, when
working under the car, you should be careful
not to touch the exhaust system parts or
other hot parts of the engine. It is
recommended to wear gloves when
performing such work to avoid scalding and
Каждые 15000 км - бензиновые двигатели 1А • 7
3.4 Metal drain plug protection plate (marked

with arrows) available on some models
To ensure that the stream of used oil falls

directly into the container and not onto your
sleeve, sharply remove the unscrewed plug 3.9b ...and sealing ring
from the hole
3.9a Unscrew and remove the filter
long square key If there is no such key, then
housing...
unscrew the bolts and remove the protective
plate. To improve access to the plug, you -
remove two bolts and remove the front
subframe frame reinforcement.
5. Unscrew the drain plug approximately
half a turn (see illustration ). Place a
container of sufficient size under the stopper
and unscrew the stopper completely. If
possible. try to press the plug to the pan,
unscrewing it manually on the last turns of
the thread (see EXPERT TIPS) Remove the 3.12b ..and lightly lubricate the O-ring and
sealing washer from under the plug. the corresponding place on the housing with
6. Let the oil drain for some time . keeping clean engine oil
3.12a Place the new element into the
in mind that it may be necessary to change housing...
the position of the container when the oil flow Screw on the filler cap 16. Start the engine
decreases to single drops. and let it run for a few minutes; At the same
7. After the oil has drained, wipe the drain time, check for oil leaks around the filter seal
re and tighten it with the torque
plug with a clean rag and replace the sealing and drain plug. Note that the oil pressure
recommended in the instructions
washer. Wipe the surface of the crankcase warning light on the instrument panel may go
14. Remove old oil and all tools from under
around the drain hole and screw the plug out a few seconds later after starting the
the car. Then lower the machine to the
securely, with the force specified in the engine, as oil must fill the lines and the new
ground (if lifted) filter.
instructions. Install the skid plate and
15. Remove the oil level dipstick and 17. Install the crankcase protection and -
subframe reinforcement where required by
unscrew the oil filler cap. Fill the engine with tighten it with bolts.
design. Tighten the bolts securely.
fresh oil, using only the recommended grade 18. Turn off the engine and wait a few
8. Move the container under the oil filter
(see “Flammable lubricants and operating minutes for the oil to drain back into the
located on the cylinder block
fluids”) An oil canister chute or funnel will crankcase. Now that the new oil has filled the
9. In these engines, the filter element is
help reduce spillage. Fill in the first half of the engine and filter, check the level again. if -
located in the filter housing. Using a wrench
or socket, unscrew and remove the filter required volume, then wait a few minutes for necessary, add
housing. Be careful not to spill oil, remove the the oil to reach the pan. Continue adding oil 19. Ensure safe disposal of used oil
o-ring (see illustrations ) little by little until the level reaches the lower
10. Remove the filter element from the filter mark on the dipstick.
housing.
11. Using a clean rag, remove all oil, dirt and
other deposits from the outside and inside of
the filter housing.
12. Insert the new filter element into the
housing, then lightly lubricate the O-ring with
clean engine oil and install it on the housing
cover (see illustrations) 13. Screw the filter
housing into the assembly
3.5 Unscrewing the drain plug with a square

wrench
1А • в Каждые 15 000 км - бензиновые двигатели
4 Checking fluid leaks Engine oil Vacuum hoses

7. Inspect the areas around the valve cover, 16. Although the braking system is
cylinder head , oil filter, crankcase, and the hydraulic , the brake booster transfers force
Cooling system joints between these parts. Keep in mind that from the brake pedal through a vacuum
Warning: Before working on the cooling over time, some very minor fluid leakage in created in the exhaust manifold. The vacuum
system, please refer to the safety these areas can turn into an intense leak. is transferred to the amplifier through a large
information in the “Safety First !” Engine oil leaking from under the drive belt cross-section hose. Any leaks through this
section . and Chapter 3. cover may indicate wear on the camshaft or hose will reduce the effectiveness of the
crankshaft seals. If such a leak is detected, braking system.
1. Carefully inspect the
replace the damaged gasket or seal by
entire length of the radiator and heater hoses
referring to the appropriate chapters in this
Replace any cracked, swollen or worn hose
manual.
Cracks are more visible when the hose is
compressed Pay special attention to the Liquid in the air conditioner
clamps Over-tightening the clamps will cause
Warning: Refer to the safety precautions
the hose to rupture and leak
2. Inspect all cooling system components
(hoses, connectors , etc.) for leaks. If leaks
A in the “Safety First ! ” section. and
Chapter 3 of this Guide .
are detected, replace the component or 8. The air conditioning system is filled with
gasket in accordance with Chapter 3 fluid under high pressure. If you depressurize
3. Leaks usually show up as white or rustythe system without the help of a special tool,
deposits around the area surrounding the the liquid inside it will immediately turn into
leak (see EXPERT TIPS) gas and evaporate into the atmosphere. If the
refrigerant comes into contact with the skin,
serious frostbite can occur. The liquid also
contains environmentally harmful
substances that should not be allowed to
enter the atmosphere.
9. If you find leaks from the air conditioning
system, contact a specialist immediately.
Leaks can be easily identified by checking
the refrigerant level regularly
10. Please note that water may drip from
the condenser tube under the vehicle during
Leaks from the cooling system are clearly
air conditioning. Ego is common and should
visible by white or rusty deposits on the
not be a concern
surfaces adjacent to the leak.
Transmission and brake fluid
Fuel Warning: Refer to the safety -
Warning: Pe
When working on the fuel system, contact A precautions in the “Safety First ! ”
section. and Chapter 9 of this manual .
information about safety measures given in 11. In accordance with Chapter 9, inspect
the section “Safety First !” and Chapter 4A the area around the brake pipe connections
4. Check the reliability of all connections to the master cylinder for leaks. Check the
and fuel lines in the engine compartment for area around the base of the tank for leaks
chafing, kinking or cracking. caused by broken insulation. Also examine
5. To detect leaks between the fuel tank and the pipe connections in the AB8 12 system .
the filler neck, the vehicle must be raised and If the leak is obvious, but cannot be detected
securely supported on supports ( see section in the engine compartment. calipers or brake
“Lifting the vehicle and placing on pipes, the vehicle should be raised and
supports”). Inspect the tank and thoroughly inspected. Leaking in the brake
neck for cracks and chips. system is a serious malfunction that follows!
Particularly important is the eliminate immediately
connection between the filler neck and the 13. In accordance with Chapter 6, check the
tank. Sometimes the rubber part of the filler connections of the transmission fluid lines to
neck or the connecting hose may leak due to the clutch master and slave cylinders
loose clamps or worn rubber. 14. Transmission/brake fluid is poisonous.
6. Carefully check all new hoses and metal New fluid is almost colorless, but darkens
fuel lines coming from the fuel tank. Check with use and over time.
for loose connections, kinked fuel lines,
frayed hoses, or other damage. Pay special Unidentified fluid leaks
attention to tank vent pipes and hoses as 15. a large sheet of cardboard under the car
they often become kinked around the filler overnight. If you place the sheet correctly,
neck and can become kinked and block fuel even a slight leak will appear on it. In addition
flow. Carefully check the fuel lines all the way to identifying the location of the leak. It will be
from the tank to the front of the machine for easier for you to determine the type of fluid
corrosion and cracks. Replace damaged by its color. But remember that some leaks
sections if necessary. only appear when the engine is running.
Каждые 15 000 км - бензиновые двигатели 1А • 9
17. In addition, many of the components - 2. Lightly lubricate the hood release prematurely 14. Check whether vibrations in
located in the engine compartment, mechanism and the protruding part of the the steering are felt when braking
especially the exhaust gas control system, cable. 15. Check that the handbrake operates
operate using vacuum from the intake 3. The side door and rear door latches, properly, that the vehicle is held on a slope,
manifold through narrow gauge hoses . A latches and locks should also be lubricated and that the handbrake lever does not have
leak in the vacuum hose means that air is and any excess grease or oil removed. excessive travel.
being sucked into the hose (instead of be Check the operation of the central 16. Test the brake booster as follows : With
pumped out of it). This makes the leak blocker. the engine off, depress the brake pedal four
difficult to detect. One method of detecting a 4. Check the condition of the rear or five times to release vacuum. Start the
leak is to use an old piece of hose as a door shock absorbers. Replace them engine. holding the brake pedal depressed
stethoscope. Hold one end of the hose to (but if they leak or do not hold the door When starting the engine, the pedal should
not in) your ear and the other to the up. become flexible as the vacuum booster has
suspected leak. When this end is directly started. Let the engine run for two minutes
over the leak, a hissing sound will be heard . Controls and electrical equipment and then turn it off. If you now press the brake
the sound will be clearly audible through the 1. Check the operation of all controls and pedal, you should hear a hissing sound from
hose. Take precautions to avoid contact with electrical equipment. the vacuum booster. After about four or five
hot or rotating components as the engine 2. Make sure that controls operate correctly presses, no further hissing should be heard
must be running during these tests. Replace and turn on all electrical equipment to check and the pedal should feel significantly firmer
any hoses found to be defective. its operation.
8 Resetting the service indicator
5 Checking the condition of the Steering and suspension
3. While driving the car, check for any
protective covers of drive shafts 1. When service is completed, the service
extraneous noise or vibrations.
and CV joints 4. Check for any deviations in control , ride
interval indicator is set as follows: 2. With the
ignition off, press and hold the odometer
softness, or road feel.
1. Having lifted the car and placed it on 5. Check the stability of control without button.
supports (see - Lifting the car with a jack and applying excessive force, and whether there
placing it on supports), turn the steering
wheel all the way in one direction , then 7 Испытание пробегом
slowly rotate the wheel. Check the condition
of the protective covers of the external
constant velocity joints (CV joints),
is noise when turning or overcoming
squeezing the covers like this so that their
obstacles.
folds open (see illustration) Check for signs
of cracks, tears or wear in the rubber, which Transmission
could lead to loss of lubrication and water 6. Check the operating condition of the
and sand entering the joint. Also check the engine. clutch, gearbox and drive shafts
condition of the clamps. Check the internal 7. Listen for any unusual noises from the
CV joints in the same way. Protective covers engine, clutch and transmission.
should be replaced if the slightest damage or 8. Make sure that the engine idles smoothly
wear is detected (see Chapter 8). and that there is no vibration as the engine
2. At the same time, check the general - speed increases.
condition of the CV joints themselves. To do 9. Check that the clutch engages without
this, hold the drive shaft and jerking, the engine revs smoothly, and the
pedal travel is not excessive. Also listen for
any noises when the clutch pedal is
depressed.
10. Check for silent and easy engagement
of all gears, smoothness and accuracy of
manipulation of the gearbox control lever.
11. On models with an automatic -
transmission, make sure that all gear
changes occur smoothly, without jerking,
without increasing the engine speed between
shifts. Check that all gear selector positions
are accessible when the vehicle is stationary.
5. 1 Check the drive shaft boots for wear
If you find any problems, contact a specialist
and tear
12. Listen for a metallic clicking sound from
try to turn the wheel Repeat the test, holding
the front of the vehicle at low speed and
the inner joint and trying to turn the shaft. Any
maximum turning angle. Make turns in both
noticeable movement indicates wear in the
directions. The appearance of noise
hinges, shaft splines, or a loose shaft nut.
indicates a lack of lubrication or wear of the
6 Checking and lubricating the drive shaft CV joint (see Chapter 8)
mechanisms of locks, hinges and
latches Brake system
13. Make sure that when braking the car
1. Lubricate the hood, door and tailgate does not pull to the side, and that during
hinges with light machine oil . heavy braking the wheels do not lock
1А • ю Каждые 30 000 км или раз в два года
3. Turn on the ignition and the meter will - 4. Turn off the ignition. Note: If you must remove the battery after
begin counting down. When 0 is reached, 5. Turn on the ignition and check the correct performing this procedure, lock the vehicle
release the odometer button and the “ - distance to the next service shown on the for at least 5 minutes. Otherwise, re-setting
wrench” service symbol. will disappear indicator. the indicator may not be saved.
Every 30,000 km or every two years
9 Checking the fine air filter '
1. The fine air filter (pollen filter) is located

behind a plastic cover in the rear right
corner of the engine compartment,
2. Unscrew the three screws and remove
the plastic cover (see illustration}.
3. Press the filter fixing plate and move it
(see illustrations }
4. Remove the filter from the housing (see
illustration]. 9.3b ..and move it 9.4 Remove the filter from the housing
5. Check the condition of the filter and
replace if necessary. brake, loosen the bolts of the front right supports") Remove the right front wheel.
6. Wipe the inside of the housing and wheel, then lift the front of the car and secure
3. After removing the plastic rivets (remove
install the filter element. Make sure it to axle supports (see, “Lifting the car with a
the central part, and then the entire rivet)
installation is correct 7. Install the retaining jack and installing it on securing the wheel arch protection to the
plate and plastic cover body, remove the protection from under the
wing.
10 Checking and replacing the
4. Using an extension rod and a suitable
drive belt of auxiliary devices crankshaft sprocket bolt socket, rotate the
crankshaft as follows. to examine the entire
Note: On models with manual drive belt length of the drive belt. Examine the drive belt
adjustment, CHROEN recommends the use for cracks, tears, or delaminations. Replace
of a special electronic tool (see Belt Tension
the belt if necessary.
Measuring Tool Type 105.5 C.TROY1S) to
5. If the condition of the belt is satisfactory,
correctly set the drive belt tension. If this
on models with manually adjustable drive belt
equipment is not available, the approximate
tension is checked as described in the
tension can be achieved using the method 10.21 Accessory drive belt (manual tensioner corresponding subsection below.
described below. Using this method, check model) 6. Install the wheel arch protection with
the tension using a special electronic device 1 Generator pulley plastic rivets.
as soon as possible. 2 Intermediate pulley 7. Install the wheel, lower the car to the
1. The serpentine drive belt is used to 3 Compressor pulley ground and tighten the wheel bolts to the
transmit rotation to the alternator and, where 4 Crankshaft pulley specified torque.
designed, the air conditioning compressor 5 Tension pulley
from the crankshaft pulley. The belt is 6 Bolts for fastening and adjusting the Manual adjustment by installing a
tensioned manually or using an automatic tension mechanism generator
spring mechanism.
Examination
2. Put the car in manual
9.3a Press the filter fixing plate...
9.2 Unscrew the three screws and remove

the plastic cover
Каждые 30000 км - бензиновые двигатели 1 А • 11
Replacement on the belt before removal. This will ensure drive belt onto the pulleys in the following
8. Follow steps 2 and 3 the correct direction of rotation after order: a) Air conditioning compressor pulley.
9. Loosen the upper and lower alternator replacement. b) Crankshaft pulley.
mounting bolts 22. When replacing a belt, make sure to - c) Generator pulley.
10. Unscrew the bolt of the regulator select the correct type. Pay attention to the c1) Intermediate pulley.
located at the bottom of the generator to direction of rotation indicator. Install the drive e) Pulley of the automatic tension
loosen the tension of the drive belt. Remove belt onto the pulleys in the following order mechanism.
the drive belt from the pulleys. a) Air conditioning compressor pulley. b) 34. Make sure the belt wedges are correctly
Note: If the belt is to be used multiple times, Crankshaft pulley. aligned with the grooves on the pulleys.
mark the direction of rotation on the belt c) Generator pulley. Caution: Do not allow the tension pulley to
before removing it. This will ensure the c!) Intermediate pulley put too much pressure on the belt, as this will
correct direction of rotation after f) Tension mechanism pulley. damage the belt.
replacement. 23. Make sure the belt wedges are correctly 35. Install wheel arch protection using
11. When replacing a belt, make sure you aligned with the grooves on the pulleys. and plastic rivets
select the correct type. Pay attention to the the drive belt is correctly positioned. Tension 36. Install the wheel and lower the car.
direction of rotation indicator the belt as follows: tighten the wheel bolts to the torque specified
12. Install the belt onto the pulleys and - Tension in the specification
remove any slack by tightening the adjuster 24. Follow steps 2 and 3
bolt. Tension the drive belt. as described in 25. If a special tension measuring tool is
11 Checking the condition of the
the following subsections. front brake pads *
available, measure the belt tension -
Tension approximately midway between the 1. Put the car on the handbrake, then lift
crankshaft pulley and the air conditioning the front of the car and secure it to axles>
13. Follow steps 2 and 3
compressor pulley. The belt tension must supports (see "Lifting the car with a jack and
14. If a special tension measuring tool is
match the value given in the Specifications at installing on supports"} Remove the front
available, measure the belt tension by taking
the beginning of this chapter. wheels
a measurement on the lower shoulder of the
2. An instant check of the pad thickness can
belt, approximately midway between the 26. If the measuring tool is not accessible,
be done through a slot in the caliper body
alternator pulley and the crankshaft. The belt the belt should be tensioned so that, under
(see EXPERT TIPS} Using a steel ruler,
tension should match the value given in the firm thumb pressure, there is approximately
measure the thickness of the friction linings
Specifications at the beginning of this 5.0 mm of free play midway between the
crankshaft pulley and the air conditioning of the brake pads. It must be no less than the
Chapter.
thickness specified in the specification.
15. If a measuring tool is not available, the compressor pulley.
3. If any pad lining is close to or less than
belt should be kept taut. so that under firm Caution: Correct tension of the drive belt will the specified minimum thickness, replace all
thumb pressure there is approximately 5.0 ensure a long service life. A belt with weak four pads.
mm of free play in the middle between the tension will slip and squeal. But over-
pulleys on the lower belt arm tightening the belt can cause wear in the
Caution: Correct tension of the drive belt will bearings of an alternating current generator .
ensure a long service life. A belt with weak 27. To adjust the tension, rotate the
tension will slip and squeal. But over- adjuster bolt until the desired tension is
tightening the belt can cause wear in the achieved . Once the belt is properly
alternator bearings. tensioned, tighten the tensioner pulley bolts
16. To adjust belt tension with the mounting securely. Rotate the crankshaft a couple of
bolt(s) loose, rotate the adjuster bolt until thetimes and recheck the tension 28. Once the
correct tension is achieved belt is correctly tensioned, install the wheel
17. Rotate the crankshaft a couple of times arch protection using plastic rivets.
and recheck the tension, then tighten the 29. Install the wheel and lower the car.
alternator mounting bolt(s) to the specified tighten the wheel bolts to the torque specified
torque. in the specification
18. Reinstall the wheel arch protection -
using plastic rivets. Automatic spring tension
19. Install the wheel, lower the vehicle to the mechanism
ground and tighten the wheel bolts to the Replacement
specified torque. 30. Follow steps 2 and 3
Manual adjustment of the tension 31. Using a wrench, rotate the tension
pulley clockwise
mechanism by pulley
32. After loosening the tension, remove -
Replacement the belt from the pulleys, noting the direction
of its rotation.
20. Follow steps 2 and 3.
21. Loosen the bolts securing the pulley of Note: If the belt is to be used multiple times,
mark the direction of rotation on the belt
the tension mechanism and, by rotating the
before removing it. This will ensure the
adjusting bolt located at the base of the
correct direction of rotation after installation.
bracket, loosen the tension of the drive belt.
Remove the belt from the pulleys (see 33. When replacing a belt, make sure to
illustration) Note: If the belt is to be used select the correct type. Pay attention to the
multiple times, mark the direction of rotation direction of rotation indicator. Install the
1А • 12 Каждые 30000 км - бензиновые двигатели
4. During a comprehensive check, the pads 1. When the system has cooled down (at 5. Now grab the wheel in 9 3 o'clock -
should be removed and cleaned. In this case, least an hour after turning off the engine), - positions and rock it as before. Now the play
the operation of the calipers should be check it from the engine itself to the end of can be classified as play in the steering or
checked and the brake discs should be the tail. Ideally, such a check should be hub bearings. If the inner or outer ball joint is
examined on both sides. Refer to Chapter 9 carried out with the car raised and placed on worn, it will be obvious when rocking
for more details. supports (see the section “Lifting a car and 6. Check the condition of the bushings and
5. Finally, install the wheel and lower the installing it supports") so that there is access suspension supports by wedging them and
vehicle, tighten the wheel bolts to the to all areas of the system. rocking them with a pry bar or a large
specified torque. 2. Check the muffler pipes and their screwdriver . Small play is acceptable since
6. On models with rear disc brakes, block connections for signs of leaks, deep the bushings and supports are made of
the front wheels and lift the rear of the car, corrosion and mechanical damage. Make rubber, but significant play indicates that the
securing it to the axle under the supports (see sure that all brackets and hangers are in rubber has separated from the metal. Also
“Lifting the car with a jack and installing good condition and tightly tightened. Leaks at check the condition of all visible rubber
supports”) Remove the rear wheels and carry joints or other parts of the system usually bushings for splits, cracks or abrasions.
out the procedures described in steps 2-5 to appear as smoked spots near the leak points. 7. Lower the car. Have an assistant move
check the condition of the rear brake pads 3. Rattling or knocking noises are often the steering wheel from left to right about one
associated with the exhaust system, - eighth of a turn in both directions. The play
12 Checking the status of '■ . rear especially should be barely noticeable. If this is not the
brake pads •. on drum brakes case, carefully inspect all the supports and
joints described above. Check the steering
1. Block the front wheels and lift the rear of column joints for wear and condition.
the car , securing it on axle supports (see
“Lifting the car with a jack and installing
supports”)
2. To quickly check the thickness of the rear
brake pad linings, measure it through the
groove in the drum, which is accessible by
removing its seal. By placing a rod with a
diameter equal to the specified minimum
thickness next to the pad, you can quickly
assess the degree of wear. For convenience, 15.4 Checking the wear of the wheel
you can use a small mirror. If the lining of one bearings by grabbing the wheel and trying
of the pads has a thickness equal to or less to pump it
than the specified thickness, all four pads Especially with brackets and hangers Try
should be replaced. moving the gears and resonators If system
3. During a comprehensive inspection, the components can touch the body or
brake drums should be removed and suspension parts, replace the brackets and
cleaned. In this case, you should check the hangers or, if possible, separate the joints
operation of the brake cylinders and examine and, by turning the pipes, find the desired
the brake drums directly. Refer to Chapter 9 position to increase the gap between them
for more details . and the body
15 Checking the steering and
eeeeeeeeeeee
suspension
Front suspension and steering

1. Raise the front of the car and lock it . your
supports (see
Lifting the car with a jack and installing
supports")
2. Inspect the ball joint and tie rod boots for
An instant check of the thickness of the pads signs of scuff marks or wear.
can be done through a slot in the caliper body 3. Any wear on these components causes
loss of lubrication, dirt and water penetration,
resulting in rapid wear of ball joints or tie rods.
13 Checking and adjusting the 4. Grab the wheel at the 12 and 6 o'clock
hand brake positions and try to rock it (see illustration) A
small backlash is acceptable , but if the
backlash is significant, then with further
1. The handbrake must be fully engaged investigation it is necessary to determine its
before the lever ratchet mechanism makes 8 source. Continue pumping the wheel while a
clicks. Check and. If necessary , adjust the helper presses the brake pedal. If the play
handbrake as described in Chapter 9. has decreased, then there is probably a
problem with the wheel bearings. If the play
14 Checking the exhaust system is still significant, then probably. the fault lies
<5® in the suspension supports and/or joints
• > . V,
Каждые 30000 км - бензиновые двигатели 1 А • 11
of the steering mechanism. Note: Shock absorber struts should always car is rocked and released, it should
be replaced in pairs on the same axle. Failure immediately return to its original state. If it
Shock absorber struts to comply with this rule may adversely affect continues to oscillate, the shock absorber is
8. Check for signs of leakage from under vehicle control. at least worn out. Also check the wear of the
the cups and seals of the shock absorber 9. The effectiveness of shock absorbers upper and lower shock absorber mounts.
struts. If such signs are present, then the rack can be checked by rocking the car at each of
is faulty and requires replacement. the four corners of the body. In general, if a
Every 60,000 km
16 Замена зубчатого 1. Обратитесь к Главе 2А

ремня привода
17 Replacing brake fluid except that the old fluid from the reservoir new brake fluid. This
must be pumped out with a rubber bulb, СМЕТЫ makes them easily
clean bucket, or similar before starting ЭКСПЕУГА distinguishable.
replacement. The old fluid will come out of
Warning: Thorough fluid can the system when bleeding 2. Proceeding as 4. Repeat the procedure for all fittings until
A damage the skin of your hands, eyes,

and painted parts of the vehicle. Be
described in Chapter 9, open the first fitting,
according to the sequence of bleeding the
new fluid appears in them, according to the
pumping sequence. Do not allow the liquid
extremely careful when handling and level in the tank to drop below the minimum
brakes, and press the brake pedal until the
pouring it. Do not use liquid that has been mark during the entire procedure, otherwise
master cylinder reservoir is almost
left open for a long time as it absorbs air will enter the system and the procedure
completely drained.
moisture from the air. Excess moisture can will be delayed.
3. Add new fluid to the maximum level and
cause a dangerous loss of braking 5. At the end of the operation, make sure
continue pumping the system until only fresh
performance. that all fittings are tightened and all dust caps
fluid remains in the tank and it begins to
are in place. Wash off all traces of spilled
Note: The clutch shares a reservoir with the come out of the fitting. Tighten the fitting and
brake system and may also require bleeding fluid and recheck the brake fluid level.
add new fluid to the reservoir to the 6. Before leaving the car on the road, check
(see Chapter 6). maximum mark.
1. The procedure is the same as for bleeding the operation of the brake system.
Old brake fluid is much darker in color than
the brake system as described in Chapter 9,
Every 60,000 km or every four years
cycle between replacements. Cleaning spark

18 Replacing spark plugs
plugs is rarely required; you should not do
this without special equipment, as the
1. The quality of spark plugs - electrodes can easily be damaged.
determines the correct operation and 2. To access the spark plugs , remove the
efficiency of the engine. It is important that ignition coil as described in Chapter 5B.
the correct spark plugs are installed on the 3. Remove the spark plugs using a spark -
engine (see Technical Requirements). If the plug wrench or a deep socket with an
correct type of plug is used and the engine is extension rod (see illustration } Don't let the
in good condition, the spark plugs will not key touch
require maintenance for the entire operating
18.3 Выверните свечи зажигания
1А • 14 Каждые 60 000 км или раз в четыре года
18.4 Inspect the spark plugs to determine the

condition of the engine - see text 18.8 Measure the spark plug interelectrode It is often difficult to screw the spark plug into
gap with a feeler gauge the hole; in addition, there is a possibility that
slip and rotate relative to the spark plug, as the spark plug will not go “on the thread” and
otherwise the spark plug insulator may be to ensure the correct clearance (see - can ruin the thread of the spark plug hole in
damaged. Inspect the turned out spark plugs illustration). The central electrode should not the cylinder block. You can simplify the
as follows: be bent, as this can cause the insulator to procedure for screwing in a spark plug by
4. The condition of the spark plugs gives a split and render the spark plug unusable. The putting a small piece of hose with a diameter
clear indication of the condition of the engine gap is set correctly if the probe plate fits of 8 mm on it. In this case, the hose will play
as a whole (see illustration). If the end of the between the electrodes with some force. the role of a universal joint, which will simplify
spark plug insulator is clean and white, 9. Tools for adjusting the gap can be the alignment of the axes of the spark plug
without deposits, this means that the engine purchased at many auto stores. and the hole.
is running lean or the heat rating of the plug 10. Before installing the spark plug, check
does not match your engine or the octane that the electrodes and threaded part of the 5. Install the air cleaner assembly as
rating of the fuel. spark plug are clean and dry (see EXPERT described in Chapter 4A.
5. If the end of the insulator is covered with TIPS).
20 Checking the oil level in the
black deposits, then the engine is running on 11. Remove a piece of hose (if used) and
a rich mixture. If the spark plug is black and tighten the spark plug with a spark plug or
manual transmission
oily, it means the engine is worn out and the torque wrench to the specified tightening Note: A square wrench used in some models
mixture is also rich. torque. Install the remaining spark plugs in for unscrewing the filler plug/checking the
6. If the end of the insulator has a “ tanned” the same way. level can be purchased at most car
gray-brown color of deposits. then the 12. Install the ignition coil as described in dealerships or at a CHgoep car dealership.
mixture is optimal and... the engine is Chapter 5B.
1. Place the car on a horizontal surface. The
probably in good condition
7. The interelectrode gap of the spark plug
19 Replacing the filter element of oil level should be checked before starting
is of great importance. If it is more or less the air C® filter
the engine or no earlier than 5 minutes after
turning it off. If you check the level
than expected. then the effectiveness of such
immediately after turning off the engine, the
a candle is significantly reduced. The 1. Remove the air cleaner assembly as
readings will be inaccurate, since some of
clearance values are given in the “Technical described in Chapter 4A.
the oil will not have time to drain.
Requirements” at the beginning of this 2. With the air cleaner removed, you tighten
the cover screws. Remove the cover and 2. After riveting the plastic rivets , remove
Chapter.
remove the filter element, remembering the wheel arch protection on the left side.
Note: The interelectrode gap on spark plugs 3. Wipe any dirt around the drain /level plug
which side it was installed (see illustrations).
with several ground electrodes cannot be located on the left side of the transmission.
3. Clean the inside of the air cleaner
adjusted. housing and install a new filter element, Unscrew the plug and wipe, remove the seal
8. To set the gap on spark plugs with one paying attention to its correct installation. (see illustration).
ground electrode, measure it with a feeler 4. Correctly position and securely screw the
gauge and bend or straighten the outer spark housing cover.
plug electrode to achieve
19.2а Выкрутите винты крышки возду- 19.2Ь ... снимите крышку воздухоо- 19.2с ...и удалите фильтрующий
хоочистителя (отмечены стрелками)... чистителя... элемент воздушного фильтра
Каждые 60 000 км - бензиновые модели ПА • 15
4. Unscrew the bolts and remove the

engine protection, if installed.
5. Place a suitable container under the
drain/fill plug located on the transmission
housing. On earlier versions, the level control
plug is a smaller plug located in the center of
the larger drain plug. On later modifications
there is only a level control plug (see
illustrations)
Warning: On earlier versions, do not
20.3 Пробка уровня/здливки масла в 21.2 Местоположение заливной пробки A remove the drain plug by mistake.
6. Start the engine and let it idle . With
механической коробке передач на автоматической коробке the engine running , leaving the drain plug in
4. The oil level should be at the bottom 21 Checking the fluid level in place (where provided by design), loosen
edge of the hole Part of the oil . collected the automatic transmission and remove the level control plug and seal
behind the plug may leak when the plug is Caution: The liquid will be hot, beware of -
removed, but this does not mean the level is Note 1: Refer to Chapter 7B for scalding.
accurate. To make sure the level is correct , information on changing fluid in later 7. If the level is normal, liquid should flow
wait until the oil stops flowing, then add oil as versions. from the plug hole, gradually starting to drip.
needed until it begins to flow out of the filler
Note 2: The square wrench used in some Note: If, when the plug is removed , the liquid
hole. The level is correct when the oil stops
models for unscrewing the filler does not flow out, or appears in the form of
flowing. Use only good quality oil and the
plug/checking the level can be purchased at small drops, this means that the liquid level
specified type (see Lubricants and operating
most car dealerships or at a CHgoep car is insufficient. Install the level plug , then turn
fluids).
dealership. off the engine. Add another 0.5 liter of fluid to
5. Filling the box with oil is an extremely
inconvenient operation, primarily because it 1. Drive the car to warm up the fluid to the box and tighten the drain plug. Repeat
takes a long period of time to establish the oil normal operating temperature, then park the the check (see paragraph 3)
level before checking. If a large amount of oil car on a flat, horizontal platform. Put the 8. The level will be sufficient when the fluid
is added and a lot of oil flows out when handbrake on the car and set the selector stops flowing. Install a new seal on the level
lever to position P. plug and tighten it to the specified torque.
checking the level, install the plug and drive
2. Wipe the area around the fill plug located Turn off the engine and install the air cleaner
the car a little so that the new oil is distributed
on the transmission directly below the air and engine protection, if provided by the
around transmission components After this,
cleaner. Remove the air cleaner as design.
recheck the level again.
described in Chapter 4A, then unscrew the fill
6. If the box was overfilled so that the oil
leaked out as soon as the plug was
plug and remove the seal . illustration ) 22 Checking the exhaust gas
unscrewed, check that the car is correctly
3. Carefully pour 0.5 liters of the specified control system
type of fluid into the box through the opening
installed on the plane and drain the excess
of the filler plug. Install a new filler plug seal,
oil into a container. 1. This check, defined by Orgoen. is
then tighten it to the specified torque.
7. Once the correct level is reached, install included in the check of the engine
a new seal on the plug and tighten it to the management system, with the connection of
specified torque. Wash off the spilled oil, then an electronic tester to the diagnostic system
install the wheel arch protection. to check the fault memory of the electronic
control unit (see Chapter 4A).
2. In fact, if the vehicle is operating within
normal limits and the hazard warning lamp
on the instrument panel is functioning
normally, this test should not be performed.
21.5а На автоматической коробке 21.5Ь Пробка контроля уровня

передач ранних модификаций пробка трансмиссионной жидкости (отмечена
контроля уровня (2) расположена в стрелкой) - более поздние модели с
центре сливной пробки (1) автоматической коробкой
1А • 1Б Каждые 60 000 км - бензиновые модели
23.4 Распустите хомут и отсоедини- 23.5а Выкрутите винт стравливания 23.5Ь ...и винт стравливания давления с
те нижний шланг от радиатора давления из системы охлаждения (от- уплотнением из рубашки охлаждения
мечен стрелками) из соединительной
муфты выходного патрубка
23 Replacing the coolant отопителя.. by SFOep. it can be reused. Filling the cooling system
recommended
7. Attach the radiator hose and tighten the
16. Before filling the system with liquid,
clamp
make sure that all hoses and clamps are in
Warning: Wait until the engine has
Flushing the system good condition; the clamps are securely
A cooled before beginning this procedure.
Do not allow antifreeze to come into 8. If timely replacement of the fluid is tightened. A mixture of antifreeze and water
contact with your skin or painted surfaces of neglected, or its density is lost, or it becomes should be used as a coolant all year round to
the vehicle. In case of contact with cloudy, the efficiency of the cooling system avoid corrosion of engine components (see
the next Chapter)
antifreeze, the contact area should be decreases, since the system channels
17. Unscrew and remove the cap of the
immediately washed with sufficient amount become clogged with rust and other harmful
expansion tank
of water. Never leave antifreeze in an open deposits. The efficiency of the cooling
18. Unscrew the screw(s) to bleed the
container or in a puddle on the driveway or system can be restored by flushing.
system (see point 5)
garage floor. Children and pets may be 9. The radiator is washed separately from
19. Manufacturers recommend using an
attracted to its sweet smell, but ingesting the engine so as not to clog its thin channels
additional “side reservoir” when filling the
antifreeze can be fatal. with dirt.
system, which reduces the amount of air
Note: The cooling system is initially filled for
Radiator flushing entering the system. This reservoir is
operation and does not require regular
topping up. 10. To flush the radiator, disconnect its installed on the expansion tank. The same
upper and lower hoses. as described in effect is achieved when using a regular 1.0
Draining old fluid Chapter 3 liter plastic bottle. Make insulation between
1. After waiting for the engine to cool 11. Insert a garden hose into the upper the bottle and the tank (see illustration)
completely, remove the expansion tank cap. radiator hose. Direct a stream of clean water 20. After installing an additional reservoir
2. If necessary, remove the engine into the radiator and flush it until then. until a on the expansion tank , slowly fill the system,
protection from under the car stream of clean water flows from the lower observing the pressure release channels.
3. Place a container under the lower cabin. Coolant should appear from the channels,
radiator hose. starting with the heater hose. As soon as
12. If, after a reasonable period of time, the
4. Loosen the lower hose clamp, pull it off coolant comes out of the heater hose without
water does not clear up, you will have to use
the radiator fitting and allow the fluid to drain air
a detergent additive. Carefully follow the
into the basin (see illustration] additive manufacturer's instructions. If the
5. To speed up the draining, unscrew the radiator is very dirty, remove it and insert a
cooling system pressure bleed screw from watering hose into the lower connection to
the connecting coupling of the heater outlet reverse flush the radiator.
pipe on the engine compartment bulkhead
and the pressure bleed screw with the seal Engine flushing
from the cooling jacket on the left of the 13. Before flushing the engine, remove the
cylinder head (see illustrations ). To gain thermostat as described in Chapter 3.
access to the bleed screws , remove the air 14. After disconnecting the lower hose from
cleaner as described in Chapter 4A. the radiator, connect a garden hose to the
6. If the coolant is cooling jacket. Direct a stream of clean water
into the engine until clean water flows from
the lower radiator hose.
15. Once flushing is complete , install the
thermostat as described in Chapter 3 and
connect the hoses to the radiator
23.19 Используйте обычную 1.0 лит-

ровую пластиковую бутылку в качестве
дополнительного резервуара.
Каждые 60 000 км - бензиновые модели ПА • 15
If there are any bubbles, tighten the pressure Caution: The coolant will be hot, so be 26. Always use ethylene glycol based
release screw securely. Then observe the careful not to get scalded. antifreeze, which is most suitable for systems
channel on the cooling jacket. As soon as 23. Allow the engine to cool and remove with components made of different metals.
liquid comes out of the hole on the jacket the auxiliary reservoir. Wash off any coolant The percentage composition of the mixture of
without air bubbles, install the seal and spills with cool water. 24. When the engine antifreeze and water, freezing point is given
securely tighten the pressure release screw. has cooled, check the coolant level as in the Specifications
21. Continue filling the system until air described in “Weekly Inspections .” If 27. Before adding antifreeze, the cooling
bubbles stop appearing in the expansion necessary, add fluid and screw on the cap of system must be drained , flushed if possible,
tank. The process of squeezing air out of the the expansion tank. Install the power unit and the condition of all hoses checked.
system can be accelerated by squeezing the protective cover, if provided. 28. After filling with coolant, a tag must be
lower radiator hose. attached to the expansion tank, indicating the
22. After the air bubbles stop, make sure Mixing antifreeze concentration of antifreeze and the date of
the additional reservoir is full (at least 1.0 25. Antifreeze should always be replaced filling. All subsequent top- ups must be
liters of coolant) and start the engine. Let the at the prescribed replacement intervals . This performed using antifreeze of the same
engine idle at high idle speed (not exceeding is necessary not only from the point of view brand and concentration.
2000 rpm) until the radiator fan operates of maintaining the anti-freezing properties of 29. Do not use antifreeze in the washer
twice. After the second stop . fan, turn off the the fluid, but also because over time, anti- system as it may damage the body paint.
engine. corrosion additives lose their properties and Other fluids are available for refilling the
a fluid change is required to prevent engine washer system.
corrosion
Every ten years
24 Replacing Air Bags and 1. Manufacturers recommend replacing air Refer to Chapter 12 for airbag replacement
bags and seat belt tensioners every ten and Chapter 11 for seat belt tensioner
Air Bags years, regardless of their condition. replacement.
L A • l v For notes
1В • 1
Chapter 1 Section B:
Daily care and maintenance of models with diesel engines
Content
Subsection number Subsection number
General information ..................................................................1 Checking the condition of the brake pads ................................. 12
Intensive Maintenance .............................................................2 Checking the wear of the rear brake pads .............................. 13
Changing the engine oil and oil filter .................................... 3 Checking and adjusting the hand brake 14
Draining water from fuel filter sump ...................................... 4 Checking the exhaust system. 15
Checking fluid leaks .................................................................5 Checking the steering and suspension. .16
Checking the condition of the protective covers of drive shafts and Replacing brake fluid 17
CV joints ...................................................................................6 Replacing the filter element in the air filter ................................ 18
Checking and lubricating the mechanisms of locks, hinges and Replacing the fuel filter 19
latches .....................................................................................7 Checking the transmission oil level in a manual transmission 20
Mileage test .......... .... .............. ... . . 8 Replacing coolant ..................................................................... 21
Resetting the service indicator ............................................. 9 Replacing the timing belt .......................................................... 22
Checking the fine air filter ..................................................... 10 Air bags and seat belts 23
Checking and replacing the accessory drive belt ............ eleven
Degrees of difficulty
Easy, accessible Quite easy, Quite complex, Complex, Very difficult,
to beginners with accessible for within the reach of accessible accessible to a
minimal beginners with little a competent to an very experienced
experience experience mechanic experience mechanic or
d mechanic professional
1В • 2 Основные данные для проведения сервисных работ - модели с дизельными двигателями
Fuels, lubricants and operating fluids see end of Weekly Checks section on
page 0-16
Volumes
Engine oil
Including filter................................................................................................................... 3.8 liters
The difference between MAX and M1M on the dipstick ................................................... 1.8 liters
Cooling system ..................... ............................................... 5.6 liters
Transmission Manual box .................... , ..........................................................................
Fuel tank 2.0 liters
45 liters
Cooling system
Antifreeze solution 50% solution ....................................................................... . .............
Note : check the indicators according to the antifreeze instructions. lower limit -35'С
Brake system
Minimum thickness of brake pad linings .......................................................
2.0 mm
Tire pressure
see end of Weekly Checks section on
page 0-13
Oil filter ............................................................ . .............................................................. N/m
Engine sump drain plug .............................................................. .................................... 25
Mechanical box 16
Filler plug/level plug ..........................................................................................................
Wheel bolts ......................... ............................................................................................. 20
90
График обслуживания - дизельные модели 1В • 3
Note: The service intervals given in the condition at all times. You may want to at low speeds (engine idling a lot during city
Manual assume that the work is carried out perform some of the maintenance driving), or driven short distances, more
by the vehicle owner himself. These are the procedures more frequently. Frequent frequent service intervals are recommended.
minimum intervals recommended by the servicing is a good thing because it has a To maintain the factory warranty, a new
manufacturer for daily vehicle operation. positive impact on the vehicle's performance vehicle must only be serviced at a
If you want to keep your car in excellent and resale price. If the vehicle is driven in dealership.
dusty conditions, constantly towing a trailer,
or frequently driven
Every 400 km or weekly Every 60,000 km, but at least once every two years
0 See section "Weekly checks" 0 Change the brake fluid (Section 17) Note: The clutch shares a
reservoir with the brake system and may also require bleeding.
Every 15,000 km, but at least once a year
And Change the engine oil and oil filter (Subsection 3)
Every 60,000 km,
0 Drain the water from the fuel filter sump (Section 4).
but at least once every two years
And Check all gaskets and hoses for leaks (Section 5).
0 Check the condition of the protective covers of the drive shafts 0 Replace the filter element
air cleaner (Division 18)
and CV joints (Subsection 6).
0 Lubricate all hinges and latches (Section 7). 03replace the fuel filter (Section 19)
0 Carry out a mileage test (Section 8). 0 Check the gear oil level in the manual transmission (Section
20)
0 Reset the service interval indicator (Section 9). 0 Replace the coolant (Section 21) Note: The cooling system is
Note: Frequently changing the engine oil and filter has a initially “filled for life” and does not require regular renewal
beneficial effect on the condition and operation of the engine.
We recommend changing the oil at least once a year.
Every 30,000 km, Every 120,000 km

but at least once every two years 0 Replace the timing belt (Section 20)
Note : Although the accepted replacement interval for the timing
0 Check the fine air filter
belt is 240,000 km or 10 years, we recommend reducing it to
(Subsection 10) 120,000 km, especially on vehicles with intensive use (short but
0 Check the tension of the accessory drive belt (Section 11) frequent trips, long driving distances, etc.) The actual belt
0 Check the condition of the brake pads (Section 12) replacement interval is set by the owner, but remember that if
the belt breaks, serious damage to the engine can occur.
0 Check the condition of the rear brake pads - for models with
rear drum brakes (Section 13)
0 Check the operation of the handbrake (Section 14)
0 Check the condition of the exhaust system (Section 15) Every ten years
0 Check the condition of the suspension and steering 0 Replace airbags and seat belt tensioners (Section 24)
components (Section 16)
1В • а Расположение компонентов - модели с дизельными двигателями
View of the engine compartment of the 8-valve model

2 Dipstick for measuring engine oil
level
3 Air cleaner assembly
4 Battery
6 Fuel filter
fluid reservoir
8 Generator
9 Cooling system expansion tank
10 Washer reservoir
11 Manual fuel pump
View of the engine compartment of the 16-valve model
Engine oil filler cap Engine oil level dipstick Air cleaner assembly Battery
Fuse and relay box
Brake and transmission fluid reservoir Cooling system expansion tank
Washer reservoir
Fine air filter housing
Расположение компонентов - модели с дизельными двигателями 1В • 5
Bottom view of the front part of the body

1 Engine oil drain plug
2 Air conditioning compressor
3 Catalytic converter
4 Electric radiator fan
5 Plug for filling and checking the
transmission oil level for cars
with a manual transmission
6 Brake calipers
7 Lower control arms
8 Stretcher
9 CV joint drive shafts
10 Subframe reinforcement
11 Tie rod joint
12 Anti-roll bar connector
1 Fuel tank
2 Anti-roll bar
Rear axle beam
3 Lower shock mount]
4 Springs
5 Muffler
6 Handbrake cable
7
Вид снизу задней части кузова

1В • Б Процедуры обслуживания - дизельные двигатели
1. Introduction preparation for the work to be performed. , then the standard maintenance procedures
Read all sections of the manual that apply to outlined in this Chapter will not particularly
the work you are going to do, then make a list improve its operation, and you will only waste
and prepare all the tools and spare parts you time and money until serious repairs are
may need. If problems arise, consult a spare carried out
The purpose of this book is to help the parts specialist or get advice from a company 4. A number of measures to “improve ” a
“home” mechanic extend the life of the car, service station. poorly functioning engine:
preserve its qualities that affect safety,
efficiency and other characteristics (the book 2 Intensive maintenance
First of all:
contains a basic maintenance schedule, а) Clean, inspect and test the battery (see
followed by sections that tell about the type Weekly Checks).
of work separately B (the book is included б) Check all operating fluids related to the
information on visual inspections, 1. If the daily maintenance schedule has engine (see “Weekly checks”),
adjustments, replacement of parts and other been accurately followed since the purchase в) Check the condition of all pipelines and
useful topics Refer to the corresponding of a new car, the levels of all operating fluids determine if there are any leaks of
illustrations of the engine compartment and and the degree of wear of parts are operating fluids (see subsection 4)
underbody to determine the location of constantly monitored. as this manual г) Check the condition and tension of the
certain components advises, the engine should be in very good drive belts of the auxiliary units (see
If you carry out maintenance according to working order and the need for any additional subsection 11)
the schedule, depending on the mileage/time work will be kept to a minimum д) Check the condition of the air cleaner
traveled. Based on the information in the 2. There may be cases when the engine filter element and replace it if necessary
following sections, the result will be a long life performs poorly precisely because of a lack (see subsection 17)
for your vehicle. Our plan is comprehensive, of constant care. This is more likely if you е) Replace the fuel filter (see subsection 18)
so fulfilling some points of the service purchased a used car that has not received 5. If the above steps are ineffective, please
program and not fulfilling others will affect the regular and frequent maintenance. In this do the following:
final result situation, additional work may be required
As you service your car, you will beyond the normal routine maintenance.
Secondly:
understand that many procedures can and 3. If there is a suspicion of engine wear, Carry out all the specified priority operations,
should be combined into groups, depending then carrying out a compression supplementing them with the following:
on the type of work being performed, or due measurement (see (section 2B)) can provide a) Check the battery charging system
to the close proximity of components that are valuable information about the condition of (Chapter 5A)
not technically related to each other. For the main components of the piston group. b) Check the preheating system (Chapter
example, if for some reason the car was This information can serve as the basis for 5C)
raised, you can inspect not only the deciding on the amount of work required. If, c) Check the fuel system (Chapter 4B)
suspension and steering, but also the muffler for example, compression measurement
The first step in a maintenance program is data indicate significant wear of engine parts
Every 15,000 km or annually
3 Changing the oil and oil is level or, if positioned at an angle, that the
filter engine oil drain plug is located at the lowest
point. Unscrew the bolts and remove the
engine protection, if equipped.
3. Unscrew the drain plug approximately
1. Periodic replacement of engine oil and half a turn (see illustration ) Place a container
filter are very important preventive measures of sufficient size under the stopper and -
that can be carried out by the owner unscrew the stopper completely. If possible,
independently. During operation, the oil try to press the stopper to the pan,
becomes contaminated and loses viscosity. unscrewing by hand on the last turns of the
which leads to premature engine wear thread (see EXPERT TIPS) Remove the -
2. Before starting work, prepare all the sealing washer from under the plug.
necessary tools and materials. You should 4. Allow the oil to drain for a while , keeping
also have enough clean rags and old in mind that it may be necessary to change
newspapers on hand to wipe up spilled oil. the position of the container when the oil flow
Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as this decreases.
will allow it to drain better and remove more
deposits. However, when working under the
car, you should be careful not to touch the
exhaust system parts or other hot parts of the
engine. It is recommended to wear gloves
when performing such work to avoid scalding
and protect against skin irritation that may be
caused by harmful substances contained in
the used engine oil
Raise the vehicle to a sufficient height and
place it on supports. Ensure that the vehicle
Каждые 15000 км - дизельные двигатели 1В • 7
Чтобы струя отработанного масла

попала прямо в емкость, а не на Ваш
рукав, резко уберите выкрученную 3.3 Открутите сливную пробку поддона 3.8а Открутите корпус масляного
пробку от отверстия фильтра...
down to individual drops
5. After the oil has drained, wipe the drain
plug with a clean rag and replace the sealing
washer. Wipe the surface of the crankcase
around the drain hole and tighten the plug
securely
6. Move the container under the oil filter
located in the housing on the cylinder block
7. Referring to Chapter 4B, remove the air
cleaner inlet pipes for easier access to the
filter.
8. Using a wrench or socket, unscrew and 3.8Ь ...и снимите крышку кожуха с 3.9 Снимите уплотнительное кольцо
remove the filter housing with the filter фильтрующим элементом
element (see illustrations)
9. Remove the filter element from the
housing, then remove the sealing ring (see
illustrations)
10. Thoroughly wipe the filter casing and -
filter cover outside and inside to remove oil
and dirt with a clean cloth.
11. Insert the new filter element into the
housing so that the locking valve on the filter
base aligns with the corresponding hole on
the housing (see illustrations )
12. Lightly lubricate the O-ring with clean
engine oil and install it on the housing cover. 3.11а Убедитесь, что запирающий 3.11Ь . совместился с соответствую-
13. Screw the cover to the filter housing клапан на основании фильтра (отме- щим отверстием на кожухе
and tighten with the force recommended in ченный стрелками)...
the instructions. and the new filter 18. Turn off the engine and
14. Remove old oil and all tools from under wait a few minutes until the oil drains into the
the car. Then lower the machine to the crankcase again. Now that the new oil has
ground (if lifted) filled the engine and filter, check the level
15. Remove the oil level dipstick and again and. if necessary, add more.
unscrew the oil filler cap. Fill the engine with 19. Ensure safe disposal of used oil.
fresh oil, using only the recommended grade
and specified volume (see - Fuels, lubricants 4 Draining water from the fuel
and operating fluids") An oil canister or funnel filter sump
will help reduce spillage. Fill with the first half
of the required volume. then wait a few 1. The fuel filter is mounted on a bracket on
minutes until the oil reaches the pan the left side of the engine. On 16-valve
Continue adding little by little engines, referring to Chapter 4B, remove the
oil until the level reaches the bottom mark of air cleaner intake pipes as necessary to
the dipstick. Adding approximately 1.8 liters provide access to the filter.
of oil will raise the level to the MAX mark. 2. Place a suitable container under the
Screw on the filler cap. engine below the filter sump drain tube. If the
16. Connect the air cleaner intake pipes as tube is not installed, be careful not to allow
described in Chapter 4B fuel to come into contact with the
17. Start the engine and let it run for a few transmission housing . located below. If
minutes while checking for oil leaks around possible, use a suitable piece of clear hose,
the filter seal and drain plug. Note that the oil attach it to the drain hole and direct the drain
pressure warning light on the instrument under the engine.
panel may go out a few seconds later after
starting the engine, as oil must fill the lines
1В • в Каждые 15 000 км - бензиновые двигатели
Air conditioner fluid A

Warning: Refer to the safety precautions in
the “Safety First!” section. and Chapter 3 of
this manual .
9. The air conditioning system is filled with
liquid under high pressure. If the system is
depressurized without the use of a special
tool, the liquid inside will immediately turn
into gas and escape into the atmosphere.
Severe frostbite can occur if the refrigerant
comes into contact with the skin. The liquid
4.2 а сливной канал топливного 4.2Ь ...ина(отмеченстрелками)дви-
фильтра (отмечен стрелками) на also contains environmentally harmful
гателях с 16 клапанами
двигателях с8клапанами... substances that should not be allowed to
enter the atmosphere.
3. Loosen the drain nut on the filter housing metal fuel lines to the fuel filter housing. Also 10. If you find leaks from the air
and drain the fuel and water. On engines with inspect the area around the fuel injectors for conditioning system, contact a specialist
signs of leaks. immediately. Leaks can be easily identified
8 valves, the drain nut is located at the base
6. To detect leaks between the fuel tank by checking the refrigerant level regularly
of the filter housing, and on engines with 16
and filler neck, the vehicle should be raised 11. Please note that water may drip from
valves, the nut is located on the cover of the
and securely supported on supports (Lifting the condenser tube under the vehicle during
housing (see illustrations) When fuel without
the Vehicle and Installing Supports). Inspect air conditioning. This is normal and should
water begins to flow from the tube, tighten
the tank and filler neck for cracks or chips. not be a cause for concern.
the nut
4. Remove the bone from under the engine Particularly important is the connection Transmission and brake fluid
and dispose of the drained fuel. between the filler neck and the tank.
Sometimes the rubber part of the filler neck Warning: Refer to the safety
5. On 16-valve engines, connect remote air
intake connections for access as described
in Chapter 4B.
or the connecting hose may leak due to loose
clamps or worn rubber.
A precautions in the “Safety First!”
section. and Chapter 9 of this manual.
7. Check all cuts carefully
6. Start the engine. If problems continue,
bleed the fuel system (Chapter 4B)
5 Checking fluid leaks
Cooling system
Warning: Before working on the cooling
system, refer to the safety information in the
“Safety First !” section. and Chapter 3 1.
Leaks from the cooling system are clearly
Carefully inspect the entire length of the
visible by white or rusty deposits on the
radiator and heater hoses. Replace any
surfaces adjacent to the leak.
cracked, swollen or worn hose.
new hoses and metal top fuel lines coming
Cracks are more visible when the
from the fuel tank. Check for loose
hose is compressed. Pay special
connections, kinked fuel lines, frayed hoses,
attention to the clamps. Over-tightening the
or other damage. Pay special attention to
clamps will cause the hose to rupture and
tank vent pipes and hoses as they often
leak.
become kinked around the filler neck and can
2. Inspect all cooling system components
become kinked and block fuel flow. Check
(hoses, connectors, etc.) for leaks. If leaks
carefully. fuel lines all the way from the tank
are found, replace the component or gasket
to the front of the machine for corrosion and
in accordance with Chapter 3
cracks. Replace damaged sections if
3. Leaks usually show up as white or rusty
necessary
deposits around the area surrounding the
leak {see EXPERT ADVICE ) Engine oil
8. Inspect the areas around the valve cover,
Fuel cylinder head, oil filter, crankcase and the
Warning: Before working on the fuel joints between these parts. Keep in mind that
A system, refer to the safety information
in the “Safety First!” section. and
over time, some very small fluid leakage in
these areas can turn into a heavy leak.
Chapter 4B. Engine oil leaking from under the drive belt
4. Check in the engine compartment for the casing may indicate wear on the camshaft or
reliability of all connections of the fuel line crankshaft seals. If such a leak is detected,
hoses for chafing. twisting and cracking. replace the damaged gasket or oil seal,
5. Inspect all fuel hoses/tubes along their referring to the appropriate parts in this
length for breaks or cracks. Check for leaks manual.
in the union nuts and connections of the
Каждые 15 000 км - дизельные двигатели 1В • 3
12. In accordance with Chapter 9, inspect the wheel. Check the condition of the 4. Check for any deviations in control , ride
the area around the brake pipe connections protective covers of the external constant softness, or road feel.
to the master cylinder for leaks . Check the velocity joints (CV joints), squeezing the 5. Check the steering stability without
area around the base of the reservoir for covers so that their folds open (see applying excessive force, and whether there
leaks caused by ruptured insulation. Also illustration) Check for signs of cracks, tears is any noise when turning or overcoming
examine the pipe connections in the AB8 13 or wear in the rubber, which could lead to obstacles.
system. If a leak is obvious, but cannot be loss of lubrication and water and sand
detected in the engine compartment. calipers entering the joint. Also check the condition of Transmission
or brake pipes, the vehicle should be raised the clamps. Check the inner CV joints in the 6. Check the operating condition of the
and carefully inspected. Leaking in the brake same way. Protective covers should be engine. clutch, gearbox and drive shafts
system is a serious problem. which should be replaced if the slightest damage or wear is 7. Listen for any unusual noises from the
corrected immediately. detected (see Chapter 8) engine, clutch and transmission.
14. In accordance with Chapter 6, check 2. At the same time, check the general 8. Make sure that the engine idles smoothly
the connections of the transmission fluid condition of the CV joints themselves. To do and that there is no vibration as the engine
lines to the clutch master and slave cylinders. this, hold the drive shaft and try to turn the speed increases.
15. Transmission/brake fluid is poisonous. wheel. Repeat the test by holding the inner 9. Check that the clutch engages without
The new liquid is almost colorless, but with joint and trying to rotate the shaft. Any jerking, the engine revs smoothly, and the
use and over time it darkens. noticeable movement indicates wear in the pedal travel is not excessive. Also listen for
hinges, shaft splines, or a loose shaft nut. any noise when the clutch pedal is
Unidentified fluid leaks depressed.
16. If there are signs of fluid leakage, but 10. Check the silent and easy engagement
you are not sure which one, place a large of all gears, the smoothness and accuracy of
sheet of cardboard under the car overnight . manipulation of the gearbox control lever .
If you place the sheet correctly, even a slight
leak will appear on it. In addition to identifying
the location of the leak. It will be easier for
you to determine the type of liquid by its
color. But remember that some leaks only
appear when the engine is running.
Vacuum hoses 6.1 Check the protective covers when

17. Although the brake system is hydraulic , water shafts for damage
the brake booster transfers force from the
brake pedal using a vacuum created in the 7. Checking and lubricating the
intake manifold (see Chapter 9). The vacuum mechanisms of locks, hinges and
is transferred to the amplifier through a large latches
cross-section hose. Any leaks through this
hose will reduce the effectiveness of the 1. Lubricate the hood, side door and
braking system. tailgate hinges with a small amount of
18. In addition, many of the components . machine oil.
located in the engine compartment, 2. Lightly lubricate the hood release
especially the exhaust gas control system, mechanism and the protruding part of the
operate using vacuum transmitted from the cable.
intake manifold through narrow-section 3. Door and tailgate latches, latches and
hoses. A leak in a vacuum hose means that locks should also be lubricated, and excess
air is being sucked into the hose (instead of grease or oil removed. Check the operation
being forced out of it). This makes the leak of the central blocker.
difficult to detect. One method for detecting 4. Check the condition of the rear door
leaks is to use an old piece of hose as a shock absorbers. Replace them if they leak
stethoscope. Apply one end of the hose to or do not hold the door up.
(but not in) your ear and the other to the
suspected leak. When this end is directly 8 Road test
over the leak, a hissing sound will be clearly
audible through the hose. Take precautions
to avoid contact with hot or rotating
components as this test requires the engine Controls and electrical
to be running. Replace any hoses found to be
defective.
equipment
1. Check the operation of all controls and
6. Checking the condition of the electrical equipment
protective covers of the drive-O; ny 2. Make sure that the controls operate
correctly and turn on all electrical equipment
shafts and CV JOINTS
to check its operation.
1. Having lifted the car and placed it on Steering and suspension
supports (see “Lifting a car with a jack and
installing supports”), Turn the steering wheel 3. While driving the car, check for any
all the way in one direction, then slowly rotate unusual noises or vibrations.
1В • ю Каждые 15 000 км - дизельные двигатели
Brake system engine while keeping the brake pedal - interval indicator is set as follows : 2. With the
depressed. When starting the engine, the ignition off, press and hold the odometer
11. Make sure that the car does not pull to
pedal should become flexible , as the button.
the side when braking, and that the wheels
vacuum booster has started working. Let the 3. Turn on the ignition and the meter will -
do not lock prematurely during heavy
engine run for two minutes and then turn off begin counting down. When 0 is reached,
braking.
the ego. If you now press the brake pedal, release the odometer button and the " -
12. Check to see if you feel vibrations in the
you should hear a hiss from the vacuum wrench" service symbol. will disappear.
steering when braking .
booster. After about four or five presses, no 4. Turn off the ignition.
13. Check that the handbrake operates
further hissing should be heard and the pedal 5. Turn on the ignition and check the correct
normally, that the vehicle is held on a slope,
should feel significantly firmer distance to the next service shown on the
and that the handbrake lever does not have
indicator.
excessive travel. 9 Reinstallation '
14. Test the brake booster as follows: With service indicator Note: If you must remove the battery after
the engine off, depress the brake pedal four performing this procedure, lock the vehicle
or five times to release vacuum. Start the for at least 5 minutes. Otherwise, re-setting
1 . When service is completed, the service the indicator may not be saved.
Every 30,000 km
10 Checking the fine air filter
1. The fine air filter (pollen filter) is mechanism.

located behind a plastic cover in the rear right
corner of the engine compartment. Examination
2. Unscrew the three screws and remove 2. Put the car on the handbrake, loosen the
the plastic cover (see illustration) bolts of the front right wheel, then lift the front
3. Press the filter fixing plate and move it of the car and secure it to axle supports (see
(see illustrations ) “Lifting the car with a jack and installing
4. Remove the filter from the housing (see supports”) Remove the right front wheel.
illustration) 3. After removing the plastic expanding -
5. Check the condition of the filter and... rivets (remove the central part and then the
replace if necessary. entire rivet),
6. Wipe the inside of the leather and install
the filter element. Make sure the installation 10.2 Unscrew the three screws and remove
is correct. the plastic cover that connects the wheel arch
protection to the body, remove the protection
7. Install the retaining plate and plastic cover
from under the wing to provide access to the
crankshaft pulley bolt.
11 Checking and replacing the 4. Using an extension rod and a suitable
drive belt of auxiliary devices crankshaft bolt socket , rotate the crankshaft
to explore the entire length of the drive belt.
1. The serpentine drive belt is used to Examine the drive belt for cracks, tears, or
transmit rotation to the alternator and. where delaminations. Replace
10.3а Прижмите фиксирующую плас- Ю.ЗЬ.и сместите ее 10.4 Извлеките фильтр из кожуха
тину фильтра...
provided by design, the air conditioning

compressor from the crankshaft pulley. The
belt is tensioned by an automatic spring
Каждые 30000 км - дизельные двигатели пв • и
plastic rivets. supports”) Remove the rear wheels and

14. Install the wheel and lower the car. follow the procedures described in steps 2-5
tighten the wheel bolts to the torque specified to check the condition of the rear brake pads.
in the specification
13 Checking the condition of the
12 Checking the condition of the rear brake pads on drum brakes
front brake pads
1. Block the front wheels and lift the rear of
1. Put the car on the handbrake, then lift the the car , securing it on axle supports (see
front of the car and secure it on axle supports “Lifting the car with a jack and installing
(see “Lifting the car with a jack and installing supports”),
supports”}. Remove the front wheels 2. To quickly check the thickness of the rear
1 1 .8 Using a double-sided wrench, rotate 2. An instant check of the thickness of the brake pad linings, measure it through the
the tension mechanism clockwise, then pads can be done through the slot in the groove in the drum, accessible by removing
secure the position by inserting a drill into caliper body (see EXPERT ADVICE) Using a the seal. By placing a rod with a diameter
the hole on the tension mechanism body steel ruler, measure the thickness of the equal to the specified minimum thickness
(marked by arrows) friction linings of the pads. It must be no less next to the pad, you can quickly assess the
than the thickness specified in the degree of wear. For convenience, you can
Thread the belt if necessary. use a small mirror. If the lining of one of the
specification.
5. If the condition of the belt is - pads has a thickness equal to or less than the
3. If any pad is close to or less than the
satisfactory. install the wheel arch specified thickness, all four pads should be
specified minimum lining, replace all four
protection with plastic rivets. pads. replaced
6. Install the wheel, lower the vehicle to 4. During a comprehensive check, the pads 3. During a comprehensive inspection, the
the ground and tighten the wheel bolts to should be removed and cleaned. In this case, brake drums should be removed and
the specified torque. you should check the operation of the calipers cleaned. In this case, you should check the
and examine the brake discs on both sides. operation of the brake cylinders and examine
Replacement Refer to Chapter 9 for more details. the brake drums directly. Refer to Chapter 9
7. Follow steps 2 and 3. 5. Finally, install the wheel and lower the for more details.
8. Using a double-sided wrench, rotate vehicle, tighten the wheel bolts to the 14 Checking and adjusting the
the tension lever clockwise until the belt is specified torque. hand brake
loose, then lock into position. by inserting a 6. On models with rear disc brakes, block
3.0 mm drill or rod into the hole on the the front wheels and raise the rear
tension mechanism housing (see 1. The handbrake must be fully engaged
illustration). Use a small mirror to align the before the lever ratchet mechanism makes 8
fixation holes. clicks. Check and, if necessary , adjust the
9. Remove the belt from the pulleys. If the handbrake as described in Chapter 9.
belt is to be used repeatedly, mark the
direction of rotation on the belt. The belt
should be installed in the same direction.
10. When replacing a belt, make sure you
select the correct type.
11. Make sure that the belt wedges are
correctly aligned with the grooves on the
pulleys and that the installation order is 7. .11b Belt direction in models with air
followed (see illustration) conditioning
A Tensioner
B Generator
C Air conditioning compressor pulley O
Crankshaft
11.11a Belt direction in models without

air conditioning.
A Tensioner
B Generator
C Intermediate pulley O Crankshaft An instant check of the thickness of the pads
can be done through a slot in the caliper body
12. Using a double-sided wrench, pull back
the tension arm until the drill or rod can be
removed, then loosen the wrench until the
tensioner takes up any slack in the belt. car, securing it to the axial supports (see
13. Install the wheel arch protection using “Lifting the car with a jack and installing
1В»12 Каждые 30000 км - дизельные двигатели
15 Checking the exhaust weights, replace the brackets and hangers or, 6. Check the condition of the bushings and
if possible, separate the joints and. By turning suspension supports by wedging them and
system
the pipes, find the desired position to increase rocking them with a pry bar or a large
the gap between them and the body. screwdriver . Small play is acceptable, since
the bushings and supports are made of
1. When the system is cold (at least an hour 16 Checking the steering and rubber, but significant play indicates
after the car has been running), check it from suspension separation of the rubber from the metal. Also
the engine itself to the end of the tail. Ideally, check the condition of all visible rubber
such a check should be carried out with the bushings, looking for splits, cracks or
car raised and placed on supports (see abrasions.
section “Raising the car with a jack”) and Front suspension and steering
7. Lower the car Have an assistant move the
installation of supports"), to have access to all 1. Raise the front of the car and secure it to steering wheel left and right, about one-eighth
parts of the system axle supports (see “Lifting the car with a jack of a turn in both directions. The play should
2. Checking the muffler pipe and their and installing supports”} be barely noticeable. If this is not the case,
connections for signs of leaks, deep corrosion 2. Inspect the ball joint and tie rod boots for carefully inspect all the supports and hinges
and mechanical damage Make sure that all scuffs, tears, or wear.
described above. Also check the steering
brackets and hangers are in good condition 3. Any wear on these components causes
column hinges for wear and the condition of
and tightly tightened Leaks at joints or other loss of lubrication, dirt and water penetration,
the steering mechanism itself.
parts of the system, as a rule, look like sooty leading to rapid wear of the ball joints or tie
spots near the leak points rods 4. Grab the wheel at the 12 and 6 o'clock Shock absorber struts
3. Rattling or knocking noises are often positions and try to wiggle it (see illustration} 8. Check for signs of leakage from under the
associated with the exhaust system, A small backlash is acceptable , but if the cups and seals of the shock absorber struts.
especially with brackets and hangers. Try backlash is significant, then with further If such signs are present, the strut is faulty
moving the pipes and resonators. If system research it is necessary to determine its and requires replacement.
components may touch the body or parts source. Continue pumping the wheel while a Note: Shock absorber struts should always
helper presses the brake pedal. If the play be replaced in pairs on the same axle. Failure
has decreased, then there is likely a problem to comply with this rule may adversely affect
with the wheel bearings. If there is still vehicle control.
significant play, the problem is likely in the
9. The effectiveness of shock absorbers can
suspension mounts and/or joints.
be checked by rocking the car at each of the
5. Now grab the wheel in 9 3 o'clock -
four corners of the body. In general, if the car
positions and rock it as before. Now the play
is rocked and released, it should immediately
can be classified as play in the steering or hub
return to its original state. If it continues to
bearings. If the inner or outer ball joint is worn,
oscillate, then the shock absorber is at least
it will be obvious when rocking
worn out. Also check the wear of the upper
and lower shock absorber mountings.
16.4 Checking the wear of the hub bearings
by grasping the wheel and trying to pump it
17 Replacing the brake t Note: The clutch shares a reservoir with the Old brake fluid is much
liquid™ th brake system and may also require bleeding darker in color than new brake fluid. This
(see Chapter 6). makes them easily distinguishable.
1. The procedure is the same as for bleeding
the brake system as described in Chapter 9, brake cylinder
Warning: Brake fluid can damage the except that the old fluid from the reservoir 3. Add new fluid to the maximum level and
A skin of your hands, eyes, and painted

parts of the vehicle. Be extremely
must be pumped out with a rubber bulb,
clean bucket, or similar before starting
continue pumping the system until only fresh
fluid remains in the tank and it begins to
careful when handling and pouring it . Do not replacement. The old fluid will leave the come out of the fitting. Pull the fitting and add
use liquid that has been left open for a long system when bleeding 2. Proceeding as new fluid to the reservoir to the maximum
time as it absorbs moisture from the air. described in Chapter 9, open the first fitting mark
Excess moisture can cause a dangerous according to the sequence of bleeding the 4. Repeat the procedure for all fittings until
loss of braking performance. brakes and press the brake pedal until the new fluid appears in them, according to the
main reservoir is almost completely drained. sequence
Процедуры обслуживания - дизельные модели 1В • пз
pumping precautions Do not allow the liquid air will enter the system and the procedure caps are in place. Wash off all traces of
level in the tank to fall below the minimum will be delayed. spilled fluid and recheck the brake fluid level.
mark during the entire procedure, otherwise 5. At the end of the operation, make sure 6. Before leaving the car on the road,
that all fittings are tightened and all dust check the operation of the brake system.
Every 60,000 km or every four years
18 Replacing the filter element in the cover, pull it up (see illustration) sure that the tabs on the back of the cover
the air filter 5. Using a small screwdriver, push out the and the body are aligned, ensuring that the
. -. .■ — - ■I4 keys securing the manual fuel pump bracket three bolts hold the cover in place.
8 valve engines to the air cleaner cover ( see illustration). 11. Connect the air meter wire and the air
1. Unscrew the three bolts holding the air Move the pump relative to the air cleaner intake pipe.
cleaner cover to the housing, then remove 6. Loosen the clamp and disconnect the air 12. Move the manual pump to its original
the cover and remove the filter element. intake pipe from the turbocharger and the air position and install the plastic engine cover.
Check. which side of the element was placed meter (see illustration ). 13. Finally, connect the battery.
in the casing (see illustrations) 7. Disconnect the air meter wire (see
illustration) 19 Replacing the fuel filter
2. Place the new element into the air -
8. Unscrew the three bolts holding the air
purifier. install and screw the cover. Make
cleaner cover to the body.
sure that the three tabs on the back of the
Pull the air cleaner cover together with the air Warning: Before starting work, refer to
cover align with the corresponding slots on
the housing. Tighten the bolts securely.
meter up, engaging the protrusions at the
back of the cover and on the body. Remove A the specific information given in Chapter
4B, subsection 2.
Engines with 16 valves the cover (see illustration)
3. Disconnect the battery (see (lava 9. Remove the filter element,
5A).
4. Remove the plastic cover from the
engine head. The cover is attached
noting which side it was installed on ( see

illustration)
10. Place the new element into the air -
lined with rubber sealing rings. To remove purifier, install and screw on the cover. Make
18.2a Unscrew the three bolts that attach -
the air cleaner cover to the body (marked
with arrows), behind
then remove the cover...
18.6a Undo the clamp... 18.66 ...and disconnect the air intake pipe -
18.4 Remove the plastic cover from the from the turbocharger and air meter - engines
engine head by pulling it upward - engines with 16 valves
with 16 valves
18.5 Push out the keys, fixing

\ Removing the manual fuel pump bracket
on the air cleaner cover - engines with 16
valves
18.2b ...and remove the filter element - 8-
valve engines
1В • 14 Каждые 60 000 км - дизельные модели
Note: The filter element and fuel filter housing

are supplied only as one assembly unit. The
filter element is not used separately from the
housing.
8 valve engines
1. Disconnect the battery (see Chapter 5A).
Remove the three screws holding the air
cleaner cover to the housing and remove the
cover to gain access to the filter housing.
2. Wipe the return and forward fuel line
connections and surrounding areas on the 13.8 b Pull the air cleaner cover with the air 18.9 Remove the filter element - 16-valve
filter with a suitable degreaser. meter up, disengaging the tabs on the back engines
3. Unscrew the screw, release the fixing - of the cover and on the housing - engines
bracket and move the brake booster tube to with 16 valves
the side (see illustration)
engine below the filter sump drain pipe. If the
drain pipe is not installed, be careful not to
allow fuel to enter the clutch housing below.
It is possible to use a suitable piece of
transparent plastic hose, attaching it to the
drain and directing the hose under the engine
(see illustration 4.2a)
5. Open the drain fitting by turning it
counterclockwise. After draining the fuel and
water, close the drain plug.
6. Push out the keys and disconnect the 19.3 Unscrew the bracket screw (marked
outlet and inlet hoses from the filter ( see with an arrow) of the brake booster tube - 19.6 Push out the key (marked with an arrow)
illustration) Plug hoses and couplings to engines with 8 valves and disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses
prevent dirt from entering and fuel loss . from the filter - engines with 8 valves
Sometimes the new filter is supplied with
suitable plugs.
7. Unscrew the fixing screw and remove the
filter from the bracket. Disconnect the wiring
of the fuel heater and water trap (where
provided by the design) and remove the filter
from the engine (see illustrations)
8. Unscrew the fuel heater and water
catcher (where provided by the design) from
the filter. Remove their seals.
9. Replace the fuel heater and water trap
seals and install them on the new filter, 19.7a Unscrew the fixing screw (marked
with an arrow)... 19.7b ...and remove the filter from the
tightening them securely.
bracket - engines with 8 valves
10. Install the filter and tighten the fixing
screw. Engines with 16 valves
11. Connect input and output hoses and 14. Disconnect the battery (see (section described in Chapter 4B (see illustration) 16.
wires to the filter. 5A). Wipe the forward and return fuel line
12. Reinstall the brake booster vacuum 15. Remove the air duct connecting the connections and surrounding areas on the
tube to its original position, then install the air turbocharger to the air meter, air cleaner air filter with a suitable degreaser.
cleaner cover. intake, as
13. Connect the battery then bleed the fuel
system as described in Chapter 4B
18.8a Unscrew the three bolts holding the air

cleaner cover to the body - engines with 16
13.7 Disconnect the air meter wire -
valves
engines with 16 valves
Каждые 60 000 км - дизельные модели пв • 15
19.5 Remove the air duct connecting the 19.19 Push out the quick release keys and 19.20 Disconnect the fuel heating connector
turbocharger to the air meter (A) and the air disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses from the - engines with 16 valves
cleaner intake (B) - engines with 16 valves filter - engines with 16 valves
19.226 ...and disconnect the water trap 19.22s ...and a drain pipe from the sump -
19.22а Извлеките фильтр...
wire... engines with 16 valves
17. Place a suitable container under the hoses and couplings to prevent dirt 23. Open the drain plug and drain the
engine below the filter sump drain tube. If the penetration and fuel loss . Sometimes the remaining fuel in the filter
drain pipe is not installed, be careful not to new filter is supplied with suitable plugs. 24. Using a screwdriver, push out the key
allow fuel to enter the clutch housing below. 20. Disconnect the fuel heating connector - and remove the fuel heater from the filter
It is possible to use a suitable piece of from the socket located on the filter housing housing
transparent plastic hose, attaching it to the (see illustration) 25. Replace the two fuel heater o-rings with
drain and directing the hose under the engine 21. Unfasten the latches on the front and left new ones from the new filter kit (see
(see illustration 4.26) of the air cleaner. Lift the air cleaner upward illustration)
18. Open the drain fitting by turning it until there is enough clearance to remove the 26. Remove the protective caps of the new
counterclockwise. After draining the fuel and fuel filter. filter and insert the fuel heater into it until it
water, close the fitting. 22. Push out the plastic key to remove the clicks.
19. Push out the keys of the quick-release filter from the bracket. Remove the filter and 27. Install the new filter into the engine by
connector and disconnect the inlet and outlet disconnect the water trap wire and sump reversing the removal procedure.
hoses from the filter (see illustration). Mute drain tube before removing the filter. (see 28. Close the fuel drain plug and bleed the
illustrations} fuel system as described in Chapter 4B.
19.24 a Push out the key... to 19.246 ..and remove the fuel heater from 19.25 Replace the two fuel heater o-rings
the filter housing - engines with 16 valves - 16 valve engines
1В • 14 Каждые 2 000 км - дизельные модели
21 Replacing the coolant

X
Warning: Wait until the engine has
A
cooled before beginning this procedure.
Do not allow antifreeze to come into
contact with your skin or painted surfaces of
the vehicle. In case of contact with
antifreeze, the contact area should be
immediately washed with sufficient amount
of water. Never leave antifreeze in an open
20.3а Пробка залива/контроля уровня 20. ЗЬ Пробка залива/проверки уровня container or in a puddle on the driveway or
трансмиссионного масла (отмеченная (отмечена стрелкой) транс- garage floor. Children and pets may be
стрелками) - двигатели с 8 клапанами миссионного масла - двигатели с 16 attracted to its sweet smell, but ingesting
клапанами antifreeze can be fatal.
20 Checking the oil level in a Use only good quality oil of the specified type Draining old fluid
manual transmission (see “Great lubricants and operating fluids”) 1. After waiting for the engine to cool
5. Filling the box with oil is an extremely completely, remove the expansion tank cap.
Note 1: The square wrench used in inconvenient operation, primarily because it 2. If necessary, remove the engine
some models for unscrewing the filler takes a long period of time to establish the oil protection from under the car
plug/checking the level can be purchased at level before checking. If a large amount of oil 3. Place a container under the lower
most car dealerships or at a CHtoep car has been added and a lot of oil is leaking radiator hose.
dealership. when you check the level, install the plug and 4. Loosen the clamp of the lower hose, pull
Note 2: When installing after checking the oil drive the vehicle a little so that the new oil is it off the radiator fitting and allow the liquid to
level, a new seal is required on the fill/level distributed around the transmission drain into the basin (see illustration).
plug. components. After this, recheck the level 5. To speed up the draining, unscrew the
again. cooling system pressure bleed screw from
1. Loosen the bolts of the left wheel in front
6. If the box was so overfilled that the oil the heater outlet connector on the engine
of it. Lift the car by the front and rear parts
compartment bulkhead (see illustrations)
and place it on supports (see “Lifting the car leaked out as soon as the plug was
6. To drain the coolant from the engine ,
with a jack and installing supports”) keeping unscrewed, check that the car is properly
leveled and drain the excess oil into a loosen the clamp and remove the fitting
the vehicle horizontal. The oil level should be
located in the coolant manifold at the rear of
checked no earlier than 5 minutes after container.
the cylinder block (see illustrations). When
turning off the engine. If you check the level 7. Once the correct level is reached, install
installing the fitting, a new seal and clamp
immediately after turning off the engine, the a new plug seal and tighten it to the specified
must be installed.
readings will be inaccurate, since some of tightening torque. Wash off any spilled oil,
7. If the coolant was drained for reasons
the oil will not have time to drain then install the wheel arch guard. Install the other than replacement, it remains
2. Remove the left front wheel, then, using wheel and lower the car. uncontaminated and in use.
the plastic rivets , remove the wheel arch 8. A frequent need to add oil indicates a
protection to gain access to the fill/level leak that must be found and repaired before
control plug. serious consequences occur.
3. Wipe any dirt around the drain /level plug
located on the left side of the transmission.
Twist the plug and wipe it, remove the seal
(see illustration).
4. The oil level should be at the bottom
edge of the hole. Some of the oil that collects
behind the plug may leak out when the plug
is removed, but this does not mean the level
is accurate. To make sure the level is correct,
wait until the oil stops flowing, then add oil as 21.5 Unscrew the cooling system pressure
needed until it starts flowing out of the filler bleed screw ( marked with an arrow) from the
hole. The level will reach normal when the oil heater outlet coupling
stops flowing. 21.4 Squeeze the tabs to remove the hose
clamp
Каждые 60 000 км - дизельные модели пв • 3
tighten the pressure release fitting securely .

23. Make sure the auxiliary reservoir is full
(at least 1.0 liters of coolant) and start the
engine. Run the engine at high idle speed
(not exceeding 2000 RPM) until the radiator
fan operates twice. After stopping the fan a
second time, turn off the engine.
Warning: The coolant will be hot, so be
careful not to get scalded.
24. Allow the engine to cool and remove -
the auxiliary reservoir.
21.6а Отпустите хомут... 21,6Ь и снимите штуцер
25. When the engine has cooled, check the
lasted no more than four years. then it can clean water flows from the lower radiator coolant level. as described in Weekly
be reused, although it is not advisable. hose Checks. If necessary, add fluid and screw on
8. Attach the radiator hose and tighten the 17. Once flushing is complete , install the the expansion tank cap. Install the power unit
clamp. thermostat as described in Chapter 3 and protective cover, if provided.
connect the hoses to the radiator.
Flushing the system Mixing antifreeze
9. If the timely replacement of the fluid is Filling the cooling system 26. Antifreeze should always be replaced at
neglected, or its density is lost, or it becomes 18. Before pouring liquid into the system, the prescribed replacement intervals. This is
cloudy, the efficiency of the cooling system is make sure that: that all hoses and clamps are necessary not only from the point of view of
reduced, since the system channels become in good condition and that the clamps are maintaining the antifreeze properties of the
clogged with rust and other harmful deposits. securely tightened. A mixture of antifreeze fluid, but also because over time, anti-
The efficiency of the cooling system can be and water should be used as a coolant all corrosion additives lose their properties and
restored by flushing, year round to avoid corrosion of engine
fluid changes are required to prevent engine
10. The radiator is washed separately from components (see next subsection)
corrosion.
the engine so as not to clog its thin channels 19. Unscrew and remove the expansion
27. Always use ethylene glycol based
with dirt tank cap.
antifreeze, which is most suitable for systems
20. Unscrew the screw(s) to bleed the
Radiator flushing with components made of different metals.
system (see subsection 5)
11. To flush the radiator, disconnect its The percentage composition of the mixture of
21. When filling the system, Cigoren
upper and lower hoses. as described in recommends using an additional “side antifreeze and water, freezing point is given
Chapter 3 reservoir”*, which reduces the amount of air in the Specifications
12. Insert a garden hose into the upper entering the system. This reservoir is 28. Before adding antifreeze, the cooling
radiator hose. Direct a stream of clean water installed on the expansion tank. The same system must be drained, washed if possible,
into the radiator and flush it until then. until a effect is achieved when using a regular 10 and the condition of all hoses checked.
stream of clean water flows from the lower liter plastic bottle. Insulate between the bottle 29. After filling with coolant, a tag must be
cabin. and the tank (see illustration) attached to the expansion tank indicating the
13. If, after a reasonable period of time, the 22. By installing an additional reservoir on concentration of antifreeze and the date of
water does not clear up, you will have to use the expansion tank , slowly fill the system. refilling. All subsequent top-ups must be
a detergent additive. Carefully follow the Coolant should appear from the pressure performed using antifreeze of the same
additive manufacturer's instructions. If the bleeder fitting. How to brand and concentration
radiator is very dirty, remove it and insert a 30. Do not use antifreeze in the washer
watering hose into the lower connection to
system as it may damage the body's
reverse flush the radiator
paintwork. Other fluids are available for
Engine flushing refilling the washer system.
14. Before flushing the engine , remove the
fitting located in the coolant manifold at the
rear of the cylinder block and tighten the
cooling system bleed screw.
15. Remove the thermostat as described in
Chapter 3.
16. Insert the hose, disconnecting it from
the radiator, into the hole under the - 21.21 Use a 1.0 liter plastic bottle as an -
thermostat. Direct a stream of clean water additional reservoir
into the engine until
1В • 4 Каждые 120 000 км
22 Replacing the timing 1. Refer to Chapter 2B.

belt
Every ten years
1. Manufacturers recommend replacing air years. Refer to Chapter 12 for airbag

23 Replacing seat belts and bags and seat belt tensioners, regardless of replacement and Chapter 11 for seat belt
airbags their condition, every ten tensioner replacement.
Chapter 2 Section A:
Gasoline engines.
Car repair procedures
Content
general information ................................................................ 1 Camshaft(s) and rocker arms/guides - removal, inspection and
Compression measurement - description and analysis of results 2 installation .................................................................... . 10
Basic information about valve timing marks - Cylinder head - removal and installation.
general information and application ........................................ 3 ele
Valve cover - removal and installation .................................... 4 ven
toothed belt housing - removal and installation 5 Pallet - removal and installation ............................................... 12
Toothed belt drive - Oil pump - removal, inspection and installation .................. 13
general information, removal and installation .......................... 6 Crankshaft oil seals - replacement ........................................... 14
Tension mechanism for toothed belt and sprocket - removal, Flywheel/faceplate - removal, inspection and installation 15
inspection and installation ....................................................... 7 Engine/gearbox mounts - inspection and replacement 16
Camshaft seals - replacement 8 Changing the engine oil and oil filter ....................... see Chapter
Valve clearances - checking and adjustment. .9 1A
Checking the engine oil level. see Weekly checks
Technical data for monitoring and adjustments

Engine
Designation:
Engine 1.1 liter . ........................................................................... ,..
Engine 1.4 liters.
Engine 1 6 liters.
................... ............. ..............................
.........................................................
тиюр
ТПЗЗР
Manufacturer code* Engine 1.1 liter ......... ....... .................................... ....
ТС50Р4
Engine 1.4 liters. ... ....................................................... .... .................
Engine 1.6 liters ................................................ ...... ............... ...........
НРХ
Engine volume 1.1 liters .............. ..................................................... ...... КРУ
Engine 1.4 liter ..................................................................................... МРП
...................................................................
Engine 1.6 liter. .................. ..................... ....... ...................... ........... 1124 см
Cylinder diameter: 1.1 liter engine. ................... ........ ... .... .................. .... 1360 см
Engine 1.4 liter ............................................. ....................................... 1587 см
Engine 16 liters. .................................................... .............................. ....
Piston stroke 1.1 liter engine ....................................................................... 72.00 мм
75.00 мм
Engine 1.4 liters. ........................ ........,............................... ............... ..
78.50 мм
Engine 1.6 liters ........................... . .................. .. ..............................
Direction of rotation of the crankshaft ... 69.00 мм
Location of the first cylinder ........................................................................ 77.00 мм
Compression ratio. 82 00 мм
1 1 and 1.4 liter engines ................................................................... .. по часовой стрелке (вид справа от автомобиля)
Engine 16 liters ............................................................................. ....... в передающем конце блока цилиндров
Maximum power output Engine 11 liters . ........ ....... ............................
....................................................... 10.5:1
Engine 1.4 liter ........................... ................ ....................................... 11.0:1
Engine 1.6 liters ............................................................ .....................
44 кВт при 5500 оборотах в минуту
Maximum torque 1.1 liter engine. .................. ... ........ ........... .......
54 кВт при 5400 оборотах в минуту
Engine 1.4 liter .................................................. ...... .......................... 80 кВт при 5800 оборотах в минуту
Engine 1.6 liters. .................... ...... ..............
* The engine code is located on the front left of the cylinder block. 94 Нм при 3400 оборотах в минуту
Camshaft(s) 120 Нм при 3400 оборотах в минуту
147 Нм при 4000 оборотах в минуту
Drive ... .. ...
зубчатый ремень
Бензиновые двигатели. Процедуры ремонта на автомобиле ад • з
Valve clearances (cold engine)

1 1 and 1 4 liter engines
Intake ................................ .................... ............................... .............................. 0.20 мм
Graduation ...... ....................................................................... .. ........................ ,,, 040 мм
Engine 1 6 liters ......................................................................
Lubrication system гидравлические регуляторы
Oil pump type
шестеренчатый, приводимый цепью от
коленчатого вала
Minimum oil pressure at 80'C . .. _____ .... . .
Operating oil pressure................ . ............................................................. .. ................ 4 бар на 4000 оборотах в минуту
0.8 бар
N/m
Crankshaft crankpin cap nuts......................................................................................... 40
Camshaft support covers (1.6-liter engine) 10
sprocket ........................................................................................................................ bolt 45
Camshaft fixing plate bolt (1.1 and 1.4 liter engines) 16
Crankshaft oil seal housing bolts .................................... ...... ....................... 8
Crankshaft pulley bolts................................................................................................... 25
Crankshaft sprocket bolt
First puff...................... .................................................................. .......... ...... ............ 40
Second puff.................................................................................................................... turn by 45*
Cylinder head bolts:
1 1 and 1 4 liter engines: First puff .................................................................................... 20
Second puff ............................................... ................................................ .. ... ....... turn by 240'
1 6-liter engine First puff .. ..................................................................................... ,. 20
Second puff .......................................................................................................................... turn 260'
Valve cover bolts ....................................................................... . ................................. 8
Faceplate mounting bolts ............................................................................................... 67
Bolts securing the engine mount to the gearbox Manual transmission .............................. 40
Automatic transmission .................................................................................. ....... 35
Left engine mount to gearbox: Support lever to gearbox bracket ........................................... 60
Support to the body. .. ............................ ............................................... 55
Bracket to box ..................................................................................... ... . ............. 55
Rear engine support to the box Connecting the bracket to the box ...................... .. 60
Connecting the bracket to the frame .............. ..................................... ... ............... 60
Right engine mount to gearbox -
Support to the body . . . .................. .............. ............................... .... ................... 50
Support bracket to cylinder head bracket ................................................................ 60
Head bracket to block head ................................................................. ... ............... 45
Flywheel bolts' ................................................................................ ............................. 70
Main bearing cap bolts (1.6-liter engine) First tightening. ....................................................... 20
Second puff. ................... ............. ...... ................................... ..... . turn at 49'
Main bearing yoke bolts (1.1 and 1.4 liter engines):
M11 bolts: First tightening ............ ............ ................ .... ..................... ..... ................ 20
Second puff ........................................................................................................................... turn at 44'
Bolts MB. 8
Oil filter ............ ............................... ..... ........................ 25
Oil filter housing to cylinder block (1.6-liter engine) ....................................................... 10
Oil pressure sensor .............................................................................. .... .................... thirty
Oil pump bolts .................................................................... ... ....................................... 9
Oil injector piston bolts .................................................................................................... 10
Wheel bolts .................................................................................................................... 90
Pan drain plug.............................................................................................................. thirty
Pan bolts and nuts ......................................................................................................... 8
Toothed belt housing ..................................................................................................... 8
Nut of the tension mechanism/idler pulley of the timing belt.
1 1 and 1.4 liter engines ............................................................................. ... ........ 20
1 6-liter engine ........................................................ .............................................. 22
' Use new nuts and bolts
г А • г Бензиновые двигатели. Процедуры ремонта на автомобиле
also drives the cooling pump. operating temperature, the battery must be
On 1.6-liter models, the camshafts are fully charged. You will need an assistant
driven by a timing belt and act on 16 valves 3. Remove the ignition coil assembly (see
via actuators with a hydraulic backlash Chapter 5B) and unscrew the spark plugs -
adjuster. The camshafts rotate directly in the (see Chapter 1A)
How to use this chapter cylinder head and are placed in one of the 4. Install a compression gauge on the first
This Part of Chapter 2 describes those components of the bearing housing. The belt cylinder in the spark plug hole. It is preferable
repairs that can be performed on the engine also drives the cooling pump. to use a compression gauge with a screw-on
without removing it from the vehicle. If the Lubrication is provided by an oil pump sensor .
engine has already been removed from the driven by a sprocket and chain at the right 5. Have your assistant hold the throttle -
vehicle and disassembled as described in end of the crankshaft. Oil passes through a valve open and crank the engine with the
Part C, then the preliminary disassembly strainer located in the pan and through a filter starter. After one or two revolutions the
mounted on the block, then goes to the pressure will rise sharply and then settle
procedures can be omitted.
crankshaft main bearings and camshaft. The down. Record the maximum reading on the
Note that it is theoretically possible to carry
connecting rod lower end bearings are meter.
out some procedures, such as
lubricated through internal passages of the 6. Repeat the operation on all other -
piston/connecting rod assembly, but while
crankshaft, while the camshaft bearings also cylinders, recording readings on each
the engine is in the vehicle, such procedures
receive forced lubrication. On 1.6-liter 7. All cylinders should show results close to
are not performed as separate operations.
engines, the cooling oil injector nozzle each other. From deviations greater than 2
Typically, several additional procedures must
supplies oil to the outside of the piston. The bar. indicate a malfunction. Note that
be performed (not counting cleaning of
camshaft and valve lobes are lubricated by compression ( pressure creation) is quickly
components and lube passages) Therefore,
injection like the rest of the engine. created on a good engine . Low compression
such The procedures are classified as
after the first stroke of the piston, and
overhaul procedures and are described in Repair operations carried out
increased during subsequent strokes,
Part C of this chapter. Part C describes indicates wear of the piston rings. Low
engine/transmission removal from the without removing the engine compression during the first and subsequent
vehicle and complete repair procedures. Without removing the engine, it is possible strokes of the piston indicates a loose valve
which are possible. to perform the following operations: a) fit , or something like that. that “cuts” (that is,
Compression measurement. pressure escapes) through the gasket under
Engine Description P) Removing and installing the cylinder the head ( a crack in the head can also be the
All petrol engines of the TO series have head cover. cause).
proven themselves in many previous Citroen c) Removing and installing the timing belt 8. Although the manufacturer does not
and Peugeot models. A four-cylinder in-line cover. indicate the exact pressure, the pressure is
engine with an overhead camshaft and 8 b) Removing, adjusting and installing the below 10
valves is installed on 11 and 1.4-liter models. toothed drive belt.
On 1.6-liter models, engines with two f) Removing and installing the timing belt
camshafts (EOC) are installed. and with 16 and sprocket tensioning mechanism
valves, transversely located at the front of the /) Replacement of camshaft seals.
car with a left-hand gearbox e) Removal, inspection and installation of
The crankshaft is rotated by five main camshafts
bearings. The second main bearing at the top shaft with rocker arms/drives.
has thrust washers to adjust the crankshaft b) Removing and installing the cylinder
play. head.
The connecting rods rotate on bearings in I) Removing carbon deposits from the
the lower heads. The pistons are connected cylinder head and pistons.
to the connecting rods by piston pins, ]) Removing and installing the pallet.
stationary in the upper head of the k) Removing, adjusting and installing the oil
connecting rod. Aluminum alloy pistons are pump.
equipped with three piston rings - two l) Replacing crankshaft oil seals.
compression rings and an oil scraper ring ch) Inspect and replace engine/gearbox
On 1.1 and 1 4-liter engines, the cylinder mounts.
block is made of aluminum and has a wet o) Removal, inspection and installation of the
liner. Each sleeve has a seal at the base to flywheel/faceplate.
prevent refrigerant leakage into the pan.
On 1.6-liter engines, the cylinder cylinder 2 Compression test
block with a “dry liner” is cast iron. The intake description and analysis of results
and exhaust valves are spring-loaded by coil
springs and operate along guides pressed
into the cylinder head: the valve seats are 1. If the traction and dynamic characteristics
also pressed into the head. When worn, of your car have deteriorated, or misfires
guides and seats can be replaced have occurred. the cause of which cannot be
independently. On the 1.1 and 1 4-liter the ignition system or the fuel system, then a
models, the camshaft is driven by a toothed compression test may help to understand the
belt and acts on eight valves through rocker cause. If the test is carried out regularly, it
arms. The valve clearances are adjusted by can indicate a malfunction even before its
a screw with a lock nut. The camshaft rotates visible signs appear.
directly in the cylinder head. The toothed belt 2. The engine must be warmed up to
Бензиновые двигатели. Процедуры ремонта на автомобиле ад • з
bar is considered critical. Seek advice from a 3.7b ...and insert it into the hole in the
specialist in doubtful situations. protrusion of the cylinder block (marked by
9. If the pressure in any cylinder is close to arrows) the camshaft is in the 2 o'clock
the minimum allowable pressure or even position when viewed.p. . motor side motor.
less, then perform the following test for that The crankshaft can be turned with a wrench
cylinder. Pour a teaspoon of clean engine oil using the crankshaft sprocket bolt, always
through the spark plug hole and repeat the turning clockwise (when viewed from the
compression test. right side of the engine).
10. If adding oil temporarily increases 4. Aligning the hole in the camshaft
compression, the reason for the decrease in sprocket, insert a pin with a diameter of 6 mm
compression is cylinder or piston wear. If - and a length of 90 mm , welded to a rod of
there is no increase in compression, then the 3.7a Prepare a pin with a diameter of 6 mm the appropriate shape, into the hole in the
valves may not fit tightly or have burnt out, or and a length of 90 mm, welded to a rod of the front left lug of the cylinder block and align
there may be a pressure leak through the appropriate shape... with the installation hole in the rear of the
head gasket flywheel (see illustration) The suggested tool
11. Low compression in two adjacent in the starter compartment This will reduce can be purchased from Sngoen dealers.
cylinders is possible due to a pressure leak the risk of accidentally damaging the engine Note that you may have to turn the crankshaft
through the head gasket between them. This locking pins when turning the starter. slightly to align the holes
will also be indicated by the presence of
1. On all models, locating holes are drilled 5. Having installed the flywheel in the
coolant 12 in the engine oil . If the
into the camshaft sprocket(s) and the rear of correct position, insert a bolt with a diameter
compression in one cylinder is 20% less than
the flywheel/plate. The holes are used to of 10 mm or a pin into the installation hole in
in the others, and the engine idles unevenly,
ensure that the crankshaft and camshaft are the camshaft sprocket and lock it, aligning it
then the camshaft cam may wear out.
aligned correctly during engine assembly (to with the hole in the cylinder head (see
13. If the measurement results are
prevent valves and pistons from touching illustration)
unusually high, then carbon deposits have
when installing the cylinder head), or when
probably formed in the combustion
installing the timing belt. When the mounting 1.6 liter engines
chambers. In this case, you should remove
holes are aligned with the slots on the head 6. Rotate the crankshaft until the holes in
the cylinder head and remove carbon
and face of the cylinder block, insert pins of the camshaft sprockets are aligned with
deposits.
the appropriate diameter into them to lock the
14. At the end of the tests, install the spark
camshaft and crankshaft in position. Follow
plugs and coil (see Chapters 1A and 5B).
these procedures
3 Basic information about valve 2. Remove the timing belt casing as
described in subsection 5
timing marks - general I information and
application 1.1 and 1.4 liter engines
Note: Do not rotate the crankshaft or 3. Rotate the crankshaft aligning the
camshaft while they are locked in the mounting hole in the camshaft sprocket with
installation position. If the engine must be left the corresponding hole in the cylinder head.
in this condition for a long period of time, Alignment will occur when the sprocket hole
place warning notices in the passenger
compartment and in the engine
compartment.
3.4 Вставьте болт или штифт диа- 3.5 Вставьте болт диаметра 10 мм или 3.8 Вставьте болты или штифты диа-
метром 6 мм (отмечен стрелками) в штифт в установочное отверстие в метром 8 мм в установочные отверс-
отверстие в выступе блока цилиндров звездочке распределительного вала и тия в звездочках распределительных
и в отверстие маховика заблокируйте - 1.1 и 1.4-литровые валов (отмечены стрелками) и забло-
двигатели кируйте - 1.6-литровые двигателях
Бензиновые двигатели. Процедуры ремонта на автомобиле г А • 5
corresponding holes in the cylinder head.

The crankshaft can be turned with a wrench
using the crankshaft sprocket bolt, always
turning clockwise (when viewed from the
right side of the engine).
7. With the holes of the camshaft sprockets
aligned, insert a 6mm diameter x 90mm long
pin welded to a rod of the appropriate shape
into the hole in the front left lug of the cylinder
block and align with the mounting hole in the
rear of the flywheel/faceplate (see
illustration) Suggested Tool can be
4.5а Снимите опорные шайбы клапан-
purchased from the Sprone dealer network.
ной крышки (отмечены стрелками)...
Note that you may have to turn the crankshaft
a little to align the holes. the valve cover, making sure it is installed
correctly along its entire length (see
8. With the crankshaft in the correct -
illustration)
position, insert bolts or pins with a diameter
8. Install the oil trap plate , then the valve
of 8 mm into the mounting holes in the
cover support washers.
camshaft sprockets and lock them, aligning
9. Install the valve cover onto the cylinder
them with the holes in the cylinder head (see
head without dislodging its rubber seal.
illustration)
10. Install seals on the valve cover studs, if
All models required , and tighten the lock nuts to the
9. In this way, the crankshaft and specified torque.
camshafts are blocked from unwanted 11. Install the ignition coil (see Chapter 5B),
rotation. then securely attach the breather hose to the
valve cover. Finally, connect the battery.
4 Valve cover -
removal and installation 1.6 liter engines
Removal
12. Disconnect the battery (see Chapter 4.16 Valve cover bolt tightening sequence
1.1 and 1.4 liter engines 5A) and remove the ignition coil (see Chapter
13. Loosen the valve cover bolts evenly ,
Removal 5B).
following the spiral rule, and remove the
1. Disconnect the battery (see (lava 4.5b ...then remove the oil catch plate cover. Remove the gaskets.
5A) 14. Thoroughly clean the adjacent surfaces
2. Loosen the clamp and disconnect of the cylinder head and valve cover from
the breather hose from the valve cover traces of oil.
(see illustration) 15. Check the condition of the valve cover
3. Remove the ignition coil as described in gasket and, if it is not damaged, use it again.
Chapter 5B If the gasket is damaged, repair it using
4. Remove the two lock nuts with washers silicone sealant.
(where provided by the design), then lift the 16. Install the cover and tighten the bolts in
valve cover along with its rubber seal. the sequence shown ( see illustration)
4.2 Disconnect the breather hose from the 17. Install the ignition coil (Chapter 5B).
valve cover 18. Connect the battery
thread Examine the rubber seal for tears and
cracks and replace if necessary. 5 Toothed belt covers - removal
5. cover support washers , then remove the and installation
oil trap plate (see illustrations)
Installation Removing the top casing 1.1
6. Thoroughly clean the adjacent surfaces and 1.4-liter engines 1. Loosen and
unscrew the two securing bolts (one at the
front and one at the rear), and remove the
top
of the cylinder head and valve cover from 4.7 Убедитесь в правильности уста-
traces of oil. новки резинового уплотнителя кла-
7. Install the rubber seal along the edge of панной крышки по всей длине
ад • в Бензиновые двигатели. Процедуры ремонта на автомобиле
5.1 Fastening the upper skin bolts of 1.1 and

1.4-liter engines to the timing belt cover from
the cylinder head (see illustration)
1.6 liter engines
2. Place the hydraulic jack under the
engine, placing a block between the jack
head and the sump to prevent damage. Jack
up the engine.
3. Unscrew the three bolts securing the right
engine mount to the bracket, and the two
bolts securing the mount to the body (see
2. 7a Unscrew the fastening bolts (marked 5.7b ...and remove the crankshaft pulley
illustration) Remove the support and
with arrows)..
reinforcement plate. Unscrew the three bolts
and remove the support bracket. Inner casing
body shaft and tension mechanism pulley, as
4. Loosen the two lower bolts, unscrew the described in subsection 7. 16. Installation is carried out in the reverse
five upper bolts and remove the upper casing 10. Unscrew the bolts and remove the order of removal. Make sure the bottom of the
of the timing belt (see illustration) internal casing (see illustration) housing is aligned correctly with the upper lip
of the crankshaft oil seal housing and install
Removing the lower casing Installation the housing.
5. Remove the top casing as described - Upper casing
above 11. Installation is carried out in the reverse 6 Зубчатый ремень
6. Remove the accessory drive belt as order of removal. привода - общая информация,
described in Chapter 1A. снятие и установка
7. Unscrew the three bolts securing the -
Bottom casing
12. Install the lower casing and tighten its
crankshaft pulley and remove the pulley,
fastening bolts.
general information
noting how it was installed on the bolts (see 1. The timing belt transmits rotation to the
13. Install the crankshaft pulley, paying
illustrations). camshaft(s) and coolant pump from the
attention to the correct installation, and
8. Loosen and unscrew the fastening bolts, crankshaft sprocket. If the belt breaks or
tighten its bolts to the specified torque.
then remove the lower casing (see comes off the pulleys, the pistons can
14. Install the top cover as described
illustration) destroy the valve heads, leading to major and
above
Removing the inner casing 15. Install and tension the accessory drive costly repairs.
belt as described in Chapter 1A. 2. The timing belt should be replaced at
1.6 liter engines specified intervals (see Chapter 1A) or
9. Remove the distributor sprockets sooner if it is dirty or makes unusual
operating noises (possibly due to uneven
wear).
3. When removing the drive belt, it is a
convenient opportunity to simultaneously
check the condition of the cooling pump (for
coolant leaks). This will help avoid the need
to remove the timing belt again when the
pump fails
5.10 Unscrew (marked with arrows) the bolts

and remove the internal casing - 1.6-liter
5.8 Unscrew (marked with arrows) the bolts engines
and remove the lower timing belt casing 5.4 Upper timing belt housing fastening bolts
1. 3 Unscrew the three bolts (marked with (marked with arrows) - 1.6-liter engines
arrows) and remove the right engine mount -
1.6-liter engines
Бензиновые двигатели. Процедуры ремонта на автомобиле г А • 7
condition. The cost of a new belt is

negligible compared to the cost of repairs
if the belt breaks. If signs of oil
contamination are found, determine the
source of the leak and repair it. Clean the
working area of the timing belt and
adjacent components from oil stains.
13. Before installation, clean the timing belt
sprockets. Make sure that the tension
mechanism and pulleys rotate freely, without
6.9 Loosen the nut, then rotate the tension jerking. If necessary, replace the pulleys as
6.8 Unscrew the fastening bolts (marked with mechanism pulley clockwise to loosen the described in subsection 7. Ensure that the
arrows) and remove the right engine mount - tension on the timing belt - 1.1 and 1.4 liter locking tools are still in the installation
1.1 and 1.4-liter engines engines (see illustration) Remove the position as described in subsection 3.
support and the reinforcing plate. Unscrew
Installation
Removal the three bolts and remove the support
4. Disconnect the battery (see (5A) bracket. 1.1 and 1.4 liter engines
9. Loosen the lock nut of the timing belt 14. Place the timing belt in position, making
5. Align the mounting holes as described in
sure that the arrows on the belt point in the
subsection 3. Lock the camshaft sprocket(s) tensioning mechanism pulley ( see
direction of rotation (clockwise, viewed from
illustration). Turn the pulley approximately
and flywheel/faceplate in this position.
60" clockwise with a hex wrench through thethe right side of the engine).
Caution: Do not attempt to rotate the motor 15. When installing the timing belt, avoid
hole in the pulley bushing, then retighten the
shafts while the locking tools are in the jerking. Install the belt on the crankshaft and
lock nut.
running position. camshaft sprockets. Make sure the drive arm
6. Remove the lower timing belt casing as 1.6 liter engines of the belt is tight - that is, the slack is on the
described in subsection 5. tension pulley side of the belt. Install the belt
10. Loosen the lock nut of the pulley of the
6.1 and 1.4 liter engines timing belt tension mechanism. Turn the onto the cooling pump sprocket and tension
pulley. Make sure the belt teeth are centered
7. Place a hydraulic jack under the engine, pulley clockwise with a hex key through the
in the sprockets.
placing a block between the jack head and hole in the pulley bushing to the position of
16. Remove the locking tools from the
the sump to prevent damage. Jack up the minimum belt tension (see illustration), then
temporarily tighten the lock nut. crankshaft sprockets and camshaft cam ,
engine.
then loosen the tensioner pulley nut and,
8. Unscrew the three bolts securing the - All models
using a hex wrench, rotate the pulley
right engine mount to the bracket, and the
11. If the timing belt is to be reused, mark counterclockwise until the pointer is at the
two bolts securing the mount to the body
the direction of rotation with white paint. maximum tension position (see illustration).
Tighten the pulley lock nut.
17. Using the socket on the pulley bolt, turn
the crankshaft clockwise 10 full turns and
install the locking tools into the crankshaft
sprocket as described in subsection 3-18.
Check for correct installation by inserting the
locking tool into the camshaft sprockets
(subsection 3). If the tool is not available
9. 10 Timing belt tensioning mechanism - 1

6.16 Timing belt tensioning mechanism - 1.1
6-liter engines
and 1 4-liter engines
1 Minimum tension position
1 Hole for hex key
2 Normal tension position
2 Normal tension position
3 Maximum tension position
3 Position of maximum tension or chalk
4 Pointer
(if markings do not exist ). Remove the
5 Hole for hex key
belt from the sprockets 12. Carefully check
6 Tensioner Pulley Bolt
the timing belt for breaks, uneven wear or
oil contamination. Pay special attention to
the bases of the teeth. Replace the belt if
there is the slightest doubt about its
condition. If the engine is being serviced
and has traveled more than 60,000 km
with the existing belt, replace the belt as a
matter of course, regardless of its
г А • г Бензиновые двигатели. Процедуры ремонта на автомобиле
can be inserted, loosen the tension nut to the torque specified in the Camshaft sprockets - 1.6 liter
mechanism, remove the belt, install the specifications. engines
locking tools and repeat the procedures from 28. Remove the locking tool from the
5. Remove the valve cover as described in
step 14. crankshaft sprocket and rotate the crankshaft
subsection 4
19. Remove the locking tools from the two full turns clockwise. Check the position of
6. Remove the timing belt . as described in
crankshaft sprockets and camshaft races. the tension mechanism indicator. It should
subsection 6
20. Hold the tension mechanism pulley with not deviate more than 2.0 mm from the
7. Remove the crankshaft and camshaft
a hexagonal wrench, loosen the pulley nut normal tension position. If this is not the case,
locking tool and. Using a wrench or socket on
and rotate the tension mechanism to the then repeat the procedures starting from
the crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the
normal tension position (see illustration b. point 23.
crankshaft back (counterclockwise) 90' This
16). Tighten the pulley nut to the torque 29. Install the timing belt guards as
will prevent the possibility of accidental
specified in the specifications. described in subsection 5 and finally .
contact between the pistons and valves
21. Rotate the crankshaft two full turns and connect the battery.
8. Using a double-sided square-grip
check that the locking tools can still be wrench, hold the camshaft while removing
inserted.
7 Tension mechanism for toothed
belt and sprocket - the sprocket bolt (see illustration)
22. Install the right engine mount .
removal, inspection and installation Caution: Do not use the locking pin to
tightening the mounting bolts with the
secure
specified tightening force. Install the timing
belt covers as described in subsection 5 and Removal
finally, connect the battery. Camshaft sprocket - 1.1 and 1.4
1.6 liter engines liter engines
23. Place the timing belt in position, making 1. Remove the timing belt as described in
sure that the arrows on the belt point in the subsection 6.
direction of rotation (clockwise, viewed from 2. Remove the crankshaft and camshaft
the right side of the engine). Note that the locking tools and rotate the crankshaft by the
new belt has three marks that correspond to pulley bolt counterclockwise 90' using a
the marks on the crankshaft and camshaft suitable socket or wrench. This procedure
should prevent any accidental contact of the
sprockets (see illustration)
pistons with the valves. 7.8 Using a double-sided wrench, hold the
24. When installing the timing belt, avoid
3. Loosen the bolt securing the camshaft camshaft while unscrewing the sprocket bolt
jerking. Install the belt on the crankshaft and
sprocket and remove it along with the seal. - 1.6 liter engines
camshaft sprockets, aligning the marks on
To prevent the camshaft from turning while
the belt with the marks on the crankshaft and
loosening the bolt, you will need an additional
camshaft sprockets. Make sure that the drive
locking tool. In the absence of a special tool
arm of the belt is tight - that is, the slack is on
SIgoep, it can be replaced with a
the pulley side of the belt tension
manufactured one as follows : fasten two -
mechanism. Install the belt on the sprocket. steel strip cuttings (one long, the other short)
cooling pump, intermediate pulley and with three nut-bolt connections so that one
tension pulley Make sure that the belt teeth connection forms the turning point of the
are centered in sprockets 25. Install the hex branched tool, and the other two, being at the
key on the tension pulley, loosen ends of the fork, participated in the
engagement of the sprocket with the spokes
(see TOOL)
6.23 There are three marks on the belt that

correspond to the marks on the crankshaft
and preshaft sprockets - 1.6-liter engines, Use a homemade tool to hold the camshaft
pulley nut and turn the key until installed in sprocket steady while tightening the bolt
the maximum tension position (see (shown on the removed cylinder head}
illustration 6.10) Securely tighten the
tensioner pulley nut 26. Remove the locking Caution: Do not use the locking pin to prevent
tools from the crankshaft sprockets and the sprocket from turning when loosening the
camshaft and rotate the crankshaft 4 full bolt.
turns clockwise. Install the locking tool into 4. After unscrewing the fastening bolt,
the crankshaft sprocket. remove the sprocket from the camshaft. If the
27. Using a hexagonal socket wrench, sprocket is seated on a key, remove the key
loosen the nut and rotate the tension for safety. Check the camshaft seal for oil
mechanism to the normal tension position leaks and... if necessary, replace as
(see illustration 6.10). Pull the tension pulley described in subsection 8
Бензиновые двигатели. Процедуры ремонта на автомобиле 2А • 9
7.13 Снимите шпонку и фланцевую

7.12а Снимите крепящий болт и 7.12 Ь ...затем снимите звездочку с прокладку (где предусмотрено конс-
сальник... коленчатого вала трукцией) с края коленчатого вала
sprocket rotation while loosening the bolt. edges of the crankshaft (see illustration ). and the idler pulley, but do not use a strong
9. After unscrewing the bolt, remove the Check the crankshaft oil seal for oil leaks solvent that may penetrate the pulley
sprocket from the camshaft. Note that the key and, if necessary, replace it as described in bearings. The pulleys should rotate freely on
is an integral part of the sprockets. Check the subsection 14. the bushings, without jerking or play. Replace
camshaft oil seal for oil leaks and, if Tension pulley them if you are in doubt about their condition,
necessary, replace as described in or if you notice signs of wear or damage.
14. Remove the lower timing belt casing
subsection 8 23. Inspect the timing belt of the drive (see
(see subsection 5).
Crankshaft sprocket 15. Block the camshaft and crankshaft at
subsection 6). Replace the belt if there are
10. Remove the timing belt as described in doubts about its condition.
TDC of the first cylinder, as described in
subsection 6
subsection 3. Installation
11. Loosen the crankshaft sprocket bolt . To
16. Loosen and remove the lock nut of the
prevent the crankshaft from turning, on Camshaft sprocket
toothed belt tension pulley and remove the
models with a manual transmission, select
pulley from its bracket. Check the bracket for 24. Install the key (if it was previously
the highest gear and ask an assistant to
wear and replace if necessary. removed), then install the sprocket on the
apply the brake. If the engine was removed camshaft. Make sure the key fits correctly
from the car or an automatic transmission Intermediate pulley
into the groove on the sprocket and
was installed, then it is necessary to block the 17. Remove the lower timing belt casing
camshaft. Note that on 1 6-liter engines the
flywheel/faceplate (see subsection 15). (see subsection 5).
exhaust sprocket is marked E, and the intake
Caution: Do not use the flywheel/faceplate 18. Block the camshaft and crankshaft at
sprocket is marked A (see illustrations).
locking pin to prevent the crankshaft from TDC of the first cylinder, as described in
25. Install the sprocket securing bolt and
turning; Remove the pin temporarily, and subsection 3
seal. Tighten the bolt to the specified torque,
after loosening the pulley bolt , install it again. 19. Loosen the fastening bolt of the pulley
12. Remove the fastening bolt and oil seal, on the belt tension to relieve tension on the seating the sprocket onto the camshaft using
belt, the method described in the removal
then remove the sprocket from the crankshaft
(see illustrations) 20. Loosen and remove the timing belt idler procedure.
13. If the sprocket is seated on a key, pulley lock nut and remove the idler pulley 26. Align the installation hole in the
remove the key with the sprocket for safety. from its bracket. Check the bracket for wear camshaft sprocket (see subsection 3) with
and, if necessary . replace. the corresponding slot in the cylinder head
If necessary, also remove the flange gasket
and insert the locking pin
(where provided by the design) from Inspection 27. Rotate the crankshaft 90" in the normal
21. Clean sprockets and replace if direction of rotation (clockwise) until the
damaged, worn or cracked. locking pin can be inserted.
22. Clean the tension pulley 28. Install the timing belt as described in
subsection 6. On 1.6-liter engines, install the
valve covers as described in subsection 4.
Crankshaft sprocket
29. Install the key on the crankshaft. then
align it with the groove of the flange gasket
(where provided by the design)
30. Align the crankshaft sprocket groove
with the key and seat the sprocket on the
7.24a The key must fit correctly into the crankshaft.
groove (marked with arrows)
7.24b On 1.6-liter engines, the exhaust
sprocket is marked E, and the intake
sprocket is marked A (marked with an arrow)
2А • П Б Бензиновые двигатели. Процедуры ремонта на автомобиле
31. Temporarily remove the locking pin the end of the engine adjacent to the box.
from the rear of the flywheel/faceplate, then Refer to the Technical Data at the beginning
install the crankshaft sprocket retaining bolt of this chapter for the correct valve
and seal . Tighten the bolt to the specified clearances. Valve locations can be
torque while preventing crankshaft rotation determined from manifold locations
using the method used for removal. Install Fully open valve
the locking pin into the rear of the 3 inlet and 4 outlet
flywheel/faceplate. 4 inlet and 2 outlet
32. Install the timing belt . as described in 2 inlet and / outlet
subsection 6. 1 inlet and 3 outlet
5. the indicated valve fully open , check the
Intermediate pulley
clearances of the two adjustable valves. The
33. Install the idler pulley onto its bracket. 1. Remove the camshaft sprocket as
clearances are determined by inserting feeler
Install the lock nut and tighten it to the described in subsection 7
gauges of the specified thickness between
specified torque. 2. Punch or drill two small holes opposite
the valve stem and the rocker arm adjusting
34. Make sure that the drive arm of that belt each other in the oil seal. Using a self-tapping
screw. The dipstick should slide in easily. If
cog is tight - that is, the slack is on the pulley screw in each hole, remove the oil seal using
adjustment is necessary, loosen the
side of the belt. Make sure the belt is pliers. Or carefully remove the oil seal using
a flat-head screwdriver (see illustration) adjusting screw locknut and
centered on its sprockets. Turn the tension
pulley counterclockwise to remove play in the 3. Clean the oil seal seat, remove any burrs
timing belt, then tighten the pulley lock nut that may have caused the oil seal to fail
securely. 4. Lubricate the new oil seal with clean
35. Tension the timing belt as described in engine oil and install it in the socket.
subsection 6 Use a suitable tubular drift, socket type,
36. After tensioning the belt, install its that contacts only the hard outer edge
covers as described in subsection 5. of the seal. Be careful not to damage
the seal lips during installation. Note
Tension pulley that the seal lips must be turned inward.
37. Install the tension mechanism pulley on 5. Install the camshaft sprocket as
its bracket, making sure that the switch and described in subsection?.
the dowel pin are in the correct position (see
illustration }, and install the lock nut 9 Valve clearances -
38. Make sure the drive arm of the timing checking and adjustment
belt is tight - that is, the slack is on the pulley
side of the belt Make sure the belt is centered
on its sprockets Rotate the tensioner pulley Note 1: Valve clearances are checked and
counterclockwise to remove any play in the adjusted only on a cold engine.
timing belt, then tighten the pulley lock nut
Note 2: This procedure only applies to 1.1
securely
and 1.4 liter engines. Valve clearances on Регулируемые клапаны
39. Tension the timing belt as described in
the 1.6-liter engine are maintained by
subsection 6
hydraulic compensators built into the valve
40. After tensioning the belt, install its
lifters. 1 выпускной
covers as described in subsection 5. Note: If
3 выпускной
the camshaft oil seal is leaking, check the 1. properly set valve clearances cannot be 4 выпускной
gear neglected , since they fundamentally affect
2 выпускной
engine performance. If the clearances are
41. 7 Correct location of switch and dowel
too large, the engine will produce
pin (marked by arrows)
8.2 Carefully remove the oil seal using a flat- characteristic noise and engine efficiency will
be significantly reduced, since the valves
head screwdriver and check for oil
open too late and close too early. A more
contamination: if signs of contamination are
serious problem arises if the gaps are too
found, the belt must be replaced. Before
small. In this case, the valves may not close
installing a new belt, ensure that all traces of completely when the engine is hot,
dirt are removed from the sprockets and resulting in severe engine damage
surrounding areas. (burnt valve seats and/or warped/split
cylinder head). Clearances are
checked and adjusted as follows.
subsection 4
3. Now you can crank the engine using a
suitable rod with a head on the crankshaft
sprocket bolt
4. It is important that each valve clearance
be checked and adjusted only in the fully
closed position with the rocker arm resting on
8 Camshaft seals - the cam lobe. This can be achieved by
replacement making adjustments in the following 9.5 Проверьте зазоры, вставляя щупы
sequence, noting that the first cylinder is at заданной толщины
Бензиновые двигатели. Процедуры ремонта на автомобиле 2А • 80
turn the screw until the correct clearance is gasket. in subsection 11

achieved (see illustration ) Once the correct 2. On 1 6-liter engines, the preshafts can be 7. Remove the locking tool from the
clearance is achieved, lock the screw and removed upwards from the cylinder head. On removed head, then remove the camshaft
tighten the lock nut securely. Once the lock 1.1 and 1.4 liter engines, the camshaft is sprocket as described in subsection 7.
nut is tightened, recheck the valve clearance offset to the right of the cylinder head, so it 8. Unscrew the bolt from the cooling jacket
and. if necessary, adjust again. cannot be removed without first removing the on the left side of the cylinder head.
6. Rotate the crankshaft until the next valve cylinder head due to insufficient clearance. 9. Unscrew the fastening bolt and remove
in the sequence is fully open and check the the camshaft flange (see illustration )
clearances of the next two valves indicated Removal 10. Using a large flathead screwdriver ,
7. Repeat the procedure until all eight valve carefully remove the oil seal from the right
Rocker arms -
clearances have been checked (and side of the cylinder head, then remove the
2.1 and 1.4 liter engines camshaft (see illustrations).
adjusted if necessary ), then install the valve
3. Remove the cylinder head as described
cover as described in Section 4
in subsection 11.
Camshafts/guides - 1.6 liter
engines
10 Camshaft(s) and rocker 4. To dismantle the rocker arm assembly,
11. Remove the camshaft sprockets as
arms/guides - removal, inspection and use a lever to carefully remove the retaining described in subsection 7. Then remove the
installation ring from the right end of the rocker arm axis;
inner casing of the drive timing belt as
prevent the rocker arm bases from springing
described in subsection 5.
away from the end of the axle. Remove the
general information rocker arm components from the end of the
12. Starting from the outside, working in a
1. On 1 6-liter engines, the valves are shaft, strictly observing the order (see spiral manner, evenly loosen the camshaft
controlled by guides with hydraulic illustration). Pay attention to the correct bearing housing securing bolts and remove
compensators . located between the sequence and position of each the housing from the cylinder head (see
camshafts and valve lifters On 1 1 and 1 4- illustration).
liter engines, the valves are controlled by 13. Remember the location of the preshaft
rocker arms located between the camshaft races: the intake camshaft is in the rear, and
and valve lifters. The rocker arms assemblies the exhaust camshaft is in the front of the
are secured in the upper part of the cylinder cylinder head. So-
head with cylinder head bolts Theo-
10.5 Twist the two nuts together to unscrew

the strut on the left side of the support - 1.1
and 1.4 liter engine components to ensure
correct assembly.
Note: Avoid touching the working surfaces of
the rocker arm roller bearing with your
10.4 Remove the retaining ring and
fingers.
components from the shaft - 1.1 and 1.4
5. To remove the left support from the shaft,
liter engines
first unscrew the valve cover post from the
It is theoretically possible, by unscrewing the
top of the support; this can be achieved by
bolts, to remove the rocker arm assembly
using a strut extractor or two nuts screwed
without removing the head, but in practice
together (see illustration ) After removing the
this is not recommended. When unscrewing
strut, unscrew the flat head set screw from
the bolts, the integrity of the cylinder head
the top of the support and remove the rocker
gasket is violated and the gasket will almost
arm axle.
certainly leak or be depressurized after
installation. Therefore, removing the rocker Camshaft -
arm assembly cannot be done without 1.1 and 1.4 liter engines
removing the cylinder head and replacing the 6. Remove the cylinder head as described
70.9 Выкрутите болт и снимите фланец 10.10а Снимите сальник рычагом... Ю.ЮЬ ...затем снимите распредвал с
распредвала(отмечен стрелкой) - 1.1 и головки блока цилиндров - 1.1 и 1.4-
1 4-литровые двигатели литровых двигателей
ад • в Бензиновые двигатели. Процедуры ремонта на автомобиле
on the guides in contact with the camshaft clean and free of traces of oil.
cams. Replace guides that show signs of 31. Lubricate the guides and the holes for
wear. If the guide bearing running surface is them in the cylinder head with oil. Carefully
excessively worn, also examine the install them onto the guides in the cylinder
associated camshaft journal, as it may also head, paying attention to the correspondence
be worn. Replace any worn components. of each guide to its original hole. Be careful
when inserting the guides into the holes.
Installation Make sure that all the guides can rotate freely
Rocker arms - in the holes.
32. Oil the bearings
1.1 and 1.4 liter engines
22. If the rocker arm assembly has been -
10.12 Evenly loosen the camshaft housing dismantled. install the rocker arm axle on the
fastening bolts - for 1.6-liter engines, left support, aligning the axle mounting hole
remember the TDC position of each - with the hole for the support screw. Screw in
camshaft for correct subsequent installation. the flat-head slotted screwdriver mounting
14. Remove the camshafts by pulling them screw and tighten securely. Tighten the flat-
out from the connection side of the box to head slotted screwdriver screw, install the
remove their opposite ends from the valve cover support post on the support and
bearings. Remove the camshafts from the tighten securely. . Lubricate the rocker shaft
cylinder head and remove the seals. with clean engine oil, then install all the
15. Prepare 16 small, clean plastic boxes, 8 removed components, observing their
for intake and 8 for exhaust components, or sequence and location. 10.32 Location marks at the 7 o'clock position
1 large general box with compartments. Use Note: Do not touch the working surfaces of on the intake camshaft and at the 8 o'clock
a suction cup to place the guides into their the rocker roller bearing with your fingers. position on the exhaust camshaft - 1.6-liter
respective boxes. Avoid mixing as this will Once all components are installed on the engines
increase the rate of wear on the guides. axle, tighten the right mount and install the
snap ring. Make sure the retaining ring is
Examination positioned correctly in the recess on the axle.
Rocker arms assembly 23. Install the cylinder head and rocker
16. Examine the roller surfaces of the arms assemblies as described in subsection
rocker arms in contact with the camshaft 11.
cams. Replace rocker arms with worn or
damaged rollers. If the roller surface is Camshaft -
excessively worn, inspect the associated 1 . 1 and 1.4 liter engines
camshaft lobe for wear, as usually both 24. Make sure the cylinder head and
surfaces wear. Replace worn components as camshaft bearing running surfaces are clean,
necessary. Rocker arm assemblies can be then lubricate the camshaft bearings and
removed. as described in points 4 and 5. cams with oil. Reinstall the camshaft in the
17. Inspect the valve lash adjusting screw cylinder head.
heads for wear or damage and replace if 25. Align the flange with the left end of the
necessary. camshaft. Install the flange retaining bolt and
18. If the rocker arm assembly has been - tighten to the specified torque.
dismantled. examine the working surfaces of 26. Make sure that the cooling pipe and the
the rocker arms and shaft bearings for wear. mating surfaces of the cylinder head are
If obvious signs of wear are detected, replace clean and dry, then lubricate the pipe seat
the associated rocker arm(s) and/or shaft. with sealant. Connect the pipe to the left side
of the head and tighten its securing bolts
Camshaft(s) securely.
19. Examine the working surfaces of the 27. Lubricate the new camshaft seal with -
bearings and camshaft cams for wear. If
clean engine oil, then install it into the seating
signs of wear are detected, replace the
recess using a suitable tubular drift, the type
camshaft. Examine the condition of the
of socket that touches only the hard outer
working surfaces of the bearings, as well as
edge of the seal. Take care not to damage
the seats on the camshaft journals and in the
the seal lips during installation. Note that the
cylinder head/bearing housing. If the main
seal lips must be turned inward 28 Install the
bearing surfaces are excessively worn, the
camshaft sprocket as described in
cylinder head should be replaced. If you have
subsection 7.
the necessary measuring equipment, you
can check the wear of the camshaft bearing 29. Install the firewood cylinder head as
journal. When determining wear, take into described in subsection 11.
account that the first bearing journal is Camshafts/guides - 1.6 liter
located on the transmission connection side. engines
20. On 1 1 and 1.4 liter engines, examine 30. Before starting installation, remove all
the camshaft flange and. If signs of wear are traces of oil from the bearing housing bolt
detected, replace holes in the cylinder head using a clean rag.
21. On 1.6-liter engines, inspect the Also make sure that the contact surfaces of
surfaces of the hydraulic lash compensators the bearing housing with the block head are
Бензиновые двигатели. Процедуры ремонта на автомобиле ад • лз
4. Remove the valve cover(s) as described A) Note the original position and then
in subsection 4 disconnect the existing vacuum
5. Remove the upper and lower timing belt booster/breather wires and hoses from
casings as described in subsection 5. the exhaust manifold and throttle body.
6. Align the sprocket mounting holes as e) Where provided by the design, unscrew
described in subsection 3 and lock the the bolt of the bracket for the exhaust
camshaft sprocket(s) and flywheel/faceplate manifold supports.
in the mounting position. 1) Disconnect the accelerator cable (where
Caution: Do not attempt to start the engine provided by design)
while the locking tools are in the running 9. Unscrew the mounting bolt and remove
position. the upper section of the dipstick guide tube.
10.33 Apply silicone sealant to the mating 7. It is further assumed that the cylinder 10. Remembering the initial position,
surface of the cylinder head (marked with head will be removed with the intake and loosen the clamps and disconnect the
arrows) - 1.6-liter engines exhaust manifolds; this is easier, but it makes cooling system hoses from the cylinder head.
camshafts in the cylinder head and camshaft handling difficult during assembly. If you wish Likewise, remembering the initial position,
lobes, then install the camshafts in the to remove the manifolds in the initial stage, disconnect the electrical wires from the
cylinder head in the appropriate positions. remove them as described in Chapter 4A cylinder head.
The location marks on the right ends of the 8. Perform the following operations as 1.1 and 1.4 liter engines
camshafts should be placed at the 7 o'clock described in Chapter 4A 11. Place the hydraulic jack under the
position on the intake camshaft and at the 8 а) Disconnect the front exhaust pipe from
engine, placing a block between the jack
o'clock position on the exhaust camshaft ( the manifold. Disconnect the oxygen head and the sump to prevent damage. Jack
see illustration ) sensor wire. up the engine.
33. Apply silicone sealant to the mating б) Remove the air cleaner assembly and air
surface of the block head around the 12. Remove the three bolts securing the
intake pipes. right engine mount to the bracket . and two
perimeter and around the seat holes of the c) Disconnect the fuel supply hose from the
fastening bolts (see illustration) bolts securing the support to the body (see
fuel line (close all fittings for illustration 6.8) Remove the support and
34. Install the bearing housing and
reinforcement plate
Glaze 1A
3. Remove the ignition coil (see Chapter 11.16 Remove rocker arms assemblies -
5B), then remove the spark plugs (see 1.1 and 1.4 liter engines
Chapter 1A) 11.18 Firmly clamp the cylinder liners in
their original position before rotating the
crankshaft (the clamps are marked with
arrows) - 1.1 and 1.4 liter engines
10.34 Последовательность затяжки

болтов кожуха подшипников рас-
предвала - 1 6-литровые двигатели
затяните болты в указанной последо-
вательности с установленным усилием
затяжки (см. иллюстрацию).
35. Установите новый сальник, как
указано в подразделе 8 11.15 Ослабьте крепящие болты го-
36. Установите внутренний кожух зуб- ловки блока цилиндров - 1.1 и 1.4-
чатого ремня привода, как описано в литровые двигатели
подразделе 5
37. Установите звездочки распреде-
лительного вала как описано в под-
разделе 7
11 Головка блока цилиндров
снятие и установка
На заметку: Перед снятием головки

блока цилиндров убедитесь, что
двигатель холодный.
Снятие 11.17 Using two strong screwdrivers, rock
1. Отсоедините аккумулятор (см. Главу the cylinder head, disconnecting 1.1 and
1.4-liter engines from the block
5А).
prevent fuel loss and dirt from entering
2. Слейте хладагент, как описано в the fuel system ).
ад • 14 Бензиновые двигатели. Процедуры ремонта на автомобиле
13. Loosen the timing belt tension pulley 21. Working in the reverse sequence of
lock nut ( see Illustration 6.9) . Rotate the tightening ( see illustration 11-38b),
pulley approximately 60" clockwise with a Gradually loosen the cylinder head bolts until
hex wrench through the hole in the pulley until they can be unscrewed manually
bushing, then retighten the lock nut. 22. Separate the head from the block, use
14. Remove the timing belt from the outside help if possible as the head is heavy.
camshaft sprocket and position the belt especially if it is removed along with the
separately from the sprocket. Make sure that collectors
the belt is not kinked or kinked. 23. Remove the gasket from the top of the
15. Working in the reverse sequence of - block, paying attention to the two mounting
pulls (see Illustration 11.38a), Gradually - pins. If they have a loose fit, remove them
loosen the cylinder head securing bolts until with the head for safekeeping. Do not throw
they can be unscrewed by hand (see away the gasket - it will be broken for
illustration). identification (see points 28 and 29)
16. After unscrewing the cylinder head Operations that require rotation of the
mounting bolts , remove the rocker arms crankshaft (for example, cleaning the piston
assembly from the cylinder head (see heads) can only be carried out after the
11.29 Identification marks for masonry
illustration). cylinder liners are firmly clamped in their
original position A Location of the engine type identification
Note: Avoid touching the working surfaces of
24. If the cylinder head must be removed label
the rocker roller bearings with your fingers.
Note the locating pins at the base of the for conversion . remove the camshaft as B Location of gasket manufacturer
described in subsection 10, then refer to part identification mark
rocker arms. If any pin is loose in the head or
C of this chapter C Location of gasket thickness identification
support, remove it for safekeeping.
mark
17. Disconnect the interface between the Preparing for installation
cylinder head with gasket and the cylinder
25. Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces
block/crankcase without damaging the
of the head and cylinder block/crankcase
integrity of the wet liners. Use two strong
before installing the head. Use a hard plastic
screwdrivers to disengage this interface.
or wood scraper to remove gasket residue
which pass into the holes of the cylinder head
and carbon deposits; also clean the piston
mounting bolts. Gently rock the cylinder
heads.
head, disconnecting it towards the front of the
car (see illustration) Do not attempt to rotate Note: On 1.1 and 1.4-liter engines, clamp the
the head relative to the cylinder liners in their original position before turning
block/crankcase; it is fixed with pins and the the crankshaft (see point 18). Be extremely
tops of the sleeves careful when cleaning as aluminum alloy is
easily damaged. Also, ensure that carbon
Note: If the liners are inadvertently displaced,
particles do not get into the oil and cooling
there is a possibility of damage to the mating
surface, which may leak after installing the passages - this is especially important for the
cylinder head. After disconnecting the coolant system, as carbon particles can block
mating, separate the head from the block, the flow of oil to engine components. Using
use outside help if possible, since the head is tape and paper, insulate the coolant lines, oil
heavy, especially if it is removed along with lines and bolt holes in the cylinder
the manifolds. block/crankcase. To prevent carbon particles
from getting between the pistons and liners,
18. Remove the gasket from the top of the
block, paying attention to the two mounting lubricate the gap with a small amount of
pins. If they are loose fit, remove them from lubricant. After cleaning the piston, remove
the head for safekeeping. Do not throw away the grease with carbon particles with a small
the gasket - it will be needed for identification brush, then wipe the remainder with a clean
(see points 28 and 29) Operations that with a rag Clean all pistons in the same way
require rotation of the crank shaft (for 26. Check the mating surfaces of the
example cleaning the piston heads) can only cylinder block/crankcase and cylinder head
be carried out after the cylinder liners are for scoring, deep scratches or other damage.
firmly clamped in their original position (see Minor damage can be carefully removed with
illustration ) In the absence of special liner a file, but excessive damage should require
clamps CIgoen, the liners can be clamped in mechanical treatment or replacement.
their original position using large flat shims . 27. If warping of the cylinder head surface
placed under bolts of suitable length. Or is suspected . use rectangular guides for
using standard bolts with suitable spacers checking if necessary. refer to part C of this
adapted to their rods. chapter
19. If the cylinder head must be removed for 28. When purchasing a new gasket, pay
conversion , remove the camshaft as attention to its thickness. On some models it
described in subsection 10, then refer to Part is possible to install a gasket of only one
C of this chapter. thickness, which eliminates the problem. On
19.6- liter engines the rest, a gasket of standard thickness or
more is installed
20. Remove the inner casing of the drive
toothed belt as described in subsection 5
Бензиновые двигатели. Процедуры ремонта на автомобиле ад • лз
31. On 1 1 and 1 4 liter engines, before accuracy, it is recommended to use an angle

installing the cylinder head, check the gauge. If a gauge is not available, use white
cylinder liner protrusion as described in paint to apply alignment marks. between the
Chapter 2C. bolt head and the cylinder head before
tightening to check that the bolt angle is
Installation correct
1.1 and 1.4 liter engines 1.6 liter engines
32. Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces 40. Remove the flywheel locking tools and,
11.30 Measure the length of each bolt from of the cylinder head and cylinder using a wrench or socket, rotate the
the back of the head to the edge block/crankcase. Ensure that the two locating crankshaft back (counterclockwise) 90" at the
pins are in position on each side of the pulley bolt. This should prevent accidental
cylinder block/crankcase and, if necessary, contact between the pistons and valves since
thick repair gasket (+0.2 mm) The gaskets remove the cylinder liner clamps (see the cylinder head has been removed.
can be identified . as described in the next illustration) 33. Install a new gasket on the 41. Check the correct placement of the
paragraph, according to the marks in the left cylinder block/crankcase. making sure its camshafts in the cylinder head. The
corner of the gasket. identification marks are on the left and the installation mark of the intake camshaft
29. When the gasket is correctly installed side marked “TOP” is the top. should be at the 7 o'clock position and at the
on the cylinder block, a single or double mark 34. Make sure the flywheel/plate and 8 o'clock position on the exhaust camshaft
will be visible on its rear left side, indicating camshaft sprocket are still locked in place (see illustration 10.32) If necessary, reinstall
the type of engine (for example, TOZ. 1P with the appropriate tools, then with a helper, the camshafts using a double-sided square
engine). In the center of the gasket, there will carefully install the cylinder head onto the wrench.
likely be another series between 0 and 4 block, aligning it with the locating pins. 42. Thoroughly wipe the mating surfaces of
marks indicating the manufacturer of the 35. Make sure the rocker arm bases are the cylinder head and cylinder
gasket and the presence asbestos (these keyed, then install the rocker arm assembly block/crankcase. Make sure the two locating
marks have little meaning). The important into the cylinder head. pins are in their positions on each side of the
location of the mark is in front of the gasket; 36. Lubricate the threads and back of the cylinder block/crankcase and. if necessary,
There will be no mark on the standard one. remove the cylinder liner clamps (see
cylinder head bolt heads with clean engine
whereas a thicker repair gasket will have a illustration)
oil.
single mark (see illustration) Check the type 43. Install a new gasket on the cylinder
37. Carefully insert the bolts into the -
of gasket and make sure the new gasket is block/crankcase. making sure its
corresponding holes (do not drop them!) and
the correct thickness. If in doubt about the identification marks are on the left and the
tighten by hand until possible
correct choice of gasket, show the old gasket side marked “TOP” is the top.
38. In a certain sequence
to a specialist to confirm the correct choice
30. Check the condition of the cylinder head
bolts, especially their tightness. Every time
you unscrew, wash the bolts with a suitable
solvent and wipe dry. Check each bolt for
signs of visible wear or damage and. replace
if necessary. Measure the length of each bolt
from the back of its head to the edge of the
bolt (see illustration) Bolts for 1.1 and 1 4-liter
engines
11.38a Sequence of tightening the bolts

securing the cylinder head - 1.1 and 1.4 liter
engines
AB
© © © ©
OU
(4) CO T®
(h) (?) wit(b)
O © © © ©h ©h
bodies have a length of 175.5 mm; If any bolt
11.386 Sequence of tightening the bolts
is longer than 176.5 mm, replace all cylinder
securing the cylinder head - 1.6-liter engines
head bolts.
On 1.6 liter engines, the maximum bolt length
If necessary, gradually tighten the cylinder
is 122 6 mm. Although the manufacturers do
head bolts to the specified first tightening
not require replacement, it is recommended
torque using a torque wrench and a suitable
that the bolts be replaced regardless of
condition whenever they are disturbedsocket (see illustrations).
39. After tightening to the first tightening
11.32 Убедитесь, что два установоч- torque, again in the specified sequence,
ных штыря (отмечены стрелками) gradually tighten the bolts to the specified
находятся в своих позициях, затем angle to the second tightening torque using
установите новую прокладку an extension rod and socket. To achieve
2А • П Б Бензиновые двигатели. Процедуры ремонта на автомобиле
44. Lubricate the threads and back of the and filters, it is recommended to replace the 1. Remove the pan (see subsection 12)
cylinder head bolt heads with clean engine filter. After disassembly, the engine can be 2. Loosen and unscrew the three bolts -
oil, then install and tighten the bolts as filled with fresh oil again. Refer to Chapter 1A securing the oil pump (see illustration )
described in paragraphs 37-39. for further information. Disengage the pump sprocket from the chain
45. Install the inner drive belt casing as 3. Remove the exhaust downpipe as and remove the oil pump. If the pump
described in subsection 5, then install the described in Chapter 4A. mounting pins are loose-fitting, remove them
camshaft sprockets as described in 4. Gradually loosen and remove all pan nuts and store them with the bolts for safekeeping.
subsection 7. and bolts. Route the wiring harness away
from the pan. Remove the pan (see Inspection
All engines illustrations) 3. Inspect the oil pump sprocket for signs of
46. Install the timing belt under water as 5. Disengage the coupling by striking the damage and wear, such as missing teeth or
described in subsection 6. pan with a mallet, then move the pan out and teeth with broken edges. If the sprocket is
47. Connect all coolant hoses and remove it from under the vehicle . On 1 1 and worn, the pump assembly should be replaced
connecting wires to the cylinder head, 1.4 liter engines, you may have to use a putty as the sprocket is not supplied separately. It
exhaust manifold and throttle body. knife or similar, carefully inserting it between is recommended to replace the chain and
48. According to Chapter 4A, perform the the pan and the block. Slide the putty knife drive sprocket on the crankshaft. 1.1 and 1.4
following operations: along the joint until the tray is separated. On -liter engines, replacing the chain and drive
a) Connect the electrical wiring, fuel hoses , 1.6-liter engines, remove the gasket sprocket is a complex operation requiring
and drive cables to the fuel system 6. Since the pan is removed, take the removal of the main bearing journal, so it is
components and intake manifold. opportunity to check the oil pump strainer for not
b) Connect and adjust the accelerator cable clogging or cracks. If necessary, remove the
(where required by design). pump as described in subsection 13 and
c) Connect the front exhaust pipe to the clean or replace the filter.
manifold and connect the oxygen sensor
wire .
Installation
b) Install the air cleaner assembly and inlet 7. Clean the interface between the cylinder
pipes. block/crankcase and the sump from any
remaining insulation, then wipe the sump and
49. On 11 and 1 4-liter engines, check and.
inside the engine with a clean rag
if necessary, adjust the valve clearances as
8. Ensure that the mating surface between
the cylinder block/crankcase and the pan is
50. Install the valve cover as described in
clean and dry, then, on 1.1 and 1.4 liter
subsection 4.
engines, apply a suitable sealant to the 13.2 Unscrew the three bolts securing the oil
51. Install the spark plugs and ignition coil
mating surface of the pan. On 1.6-liter pump
(see Chapters 1A and 5B)
engines, install the pan gasket if it is not
52. Finally, turn on the battery (Chapter 5A)
damaged. or replace it with a new one
and fill the cooling system as described in
9. Install and fix under the bottom on its
Chapter 1A.
racks. Place the wiring harness in its original
12 Pallet- position, then install the pan lock nuts and
removal and installation bolts. Tighten the pan nuts and bolts evenly
and gradually
Removal
1. Place the car on the handbrake . then lift
the front of the vehicle and install it on axle
supports (see “Lifting the vehicle with a jack
and installing supports”) Where provided by
design . unscrew the bolts and remove the
engine crankcase protection
2. Drain the engine oil, then clean and
install the drain plug , tightening to the
specified torque. If the engine is approaching
its next oil change service interval 12.4b Access to the fastening bolts and nuts
through the holes (marked with arrows) in the
casing - 1.6-liter engines
tightening force specified in the specification
.
10. Install the front exhaust pipe as
described in Chapter 4A and engine
protection, if required by design.
11. Fill with engine oil (see Chapter 1A ).
13 Oil pump -
removal, inspection and installation
12.4a Unscrew the nuts and bolts, then -

remove the pan - 1.1 and 1.4-liter engines
Бензиновые двигатели. Процедуры ремонта на автомобиле а А • 17
can be performed while the engine is in the

car. On 1.6-liter engines, the oil pump drive
sprocket and chain can be removed with the
engine on the vehicle after removing the
crankshaft sprocket and removing the bolt
from the crankshaft oil seal housing.
4. Loosen and unscrew the bolts securing
the strainer housing to the pump housing,
then remove the strainer housing. Remove
the safety valve piston and spring (guide pin
- for 1.6 liter engines), remembering the
sequence and installation method.
engine oil and install it in the socket. Note that has a loose fit at the end of the crankshaft,
5. Examine the pump housing and rotors for
the seal lips must be turned inward. Be remove it and store it with the flywheel for
signs of wear. If any are detected, the pump careful not to damage the seal lips during safekeeping.
assembly should be replaced.
installation.
6. Inspect the relief valve piston for signs of Inspection
5. Using a suitable tubular drift, the type of
wear or damage. replace if necessary. The 5. If the mating surface of the flywheel
socket that contacts only the hard outer edge
condition of the safety valve spring can be clutch has deep gouges, cracks or other
of the seal, install the new seal in its place, at
assessed by comparing it with a new one; if damage, the flywheel should be replaced.
the same depth in the casing as the old one.
there is doubt about the condition of the Sometimes, however, the surface needs to
The inner surface of the oil seal must be flush
spring, it should be replaced. The piston and be ground, consult an engine repair
with the inner wall of the crankcase
spring are supplied separately. specialist.
6. Wash off any traces of oil, then install the
7. Clean the oil pump strainer thoroughly - 6. If the ring gear is excessively worn or has
crankshaft sprocket as described in
with a suitable solvent and inspect for signs missing teeth, it should be replaced. This
subsection 7.
of clogging or cracking. If the strainer is work is best left to an engine repair specialist.
damaged, the strainer and strainer housing Left oil seal The temperature to which a new ring gear is
assembly should be replaced. 7. Remove the flywheel/faceplate (see heated for installation is the kriti
8. Install the relief valve spring, piston andsubsection 15).
(where designed) guide pin into the strainer 8. Note the depth of installation of the seal
housing, then install the housing onto the in the casing, then carefully punch or drill two
pump body. Place the relief valve piston in its
small holes opposite each other in the seal.
channel in the pump. Tighten the housing After screwing a self-tapping screw into each
mounting bolts securely. hole, remove the oil seal using pliers.
9. Clean the oil seal seat and remove any
Installation burrs that may have caused the oil seal to fail.
9. Make sure the locating pin is in place and 10. Lubricate the new oil seal with clean
engage the pump sprocket with the chain. engine oil and install it on the crankshaft
Install the pump on the pin and tighten the 11. Using suitable tubular
mounting bolts to the specified torque. 15.2 Using a tool to grip the flywheel ring gear
10. Install the pan as described in and prevent rotation of a drift, a type of head
subsection 12 that only contacts the hard outer edge of the
seal, install the new seal in its place, at the
14 Crankshaft oil seals - same depth in the housing as the old one.
replacement
12. Wash off traces of oil, then install the
flywheel/faceplate as described in subsection
15.
Right oil seal 15 Flywheel/faceplate -
1. Remove the crankshaft sprocket and removal, inspection and installation
flange gasket (where provided by the
design), as described in subsection 1
14.2 Remove the right crankshaft oil seal Flywheel
using a lever using a flat-head screwdriver Removal
2. Pay attention to the depth of installation 1. Remove the gearbox as described in
of the oil seal in the housing, then carefully Chapter 7A. Then remove the clutch housing
punch or drill those two small holes opposite assembly as described in Chapter 6.
each other in the oil seal. After 2. Prevent the flywheel from rotating .
screwing a self-tapping screw into grasping the teeth of the ring gear (see
each hole, remove the oil seal using illustration) Or screw the belt between the
pliers. Or carefully remove the oil seal flywheel and the cylinder block/crankcase.
using a flathead screwdriver, being careful Caution: Do not attempt to lock the flywheel
not to damage the crankshaft/oil pump drive using the locking tool described in Section 3.
arm or oil seal socket (see illustration). 3. Loosen and unscrew the bolts securing
3. Clean the oil seal seat, eliminate burrs the flywheel.
that may have caused the oil seal to fail 4. Remove the flywheel. Do not drop it.
4. Lubricate the new oil seal with clean because it is very heavy. If the locating pin
г А • л в Бензиновые двигатели. Процедуры ремонта на автомобиле
comb and, if you do not maintain it Installation observe the mount. Even new components
accurately, you can lose the hardness of the 17. Make sure all mating surfaces are clean have some play, but excessive wear is
teeth. and dry obvious. If excessive play is detected, first
Installation 18. Remove traces of the old compound to
check the support connections, then replace
7. Clean the mating surfaces of the flywheel prevent bolts from turning from their threads worn components as described below
and crankshaft. and apply new
Replacement
8. If the threads of the new flywheel bolts 19. Make sure the locating pin is in place,
are not coated with a special anti-rotation then install the inner gasket, torque converter
Right support
5. Place a jack with a block on the head
compound, apply it to the threads. plate and outer gasket. Make sure all
under the engine. Jack up the engine.
9. Make sure the locating pin is in place. components are positioned correctly on the
6. Loosen and unscrew the bolts securing -
Install the flywheel, aligning it with the post, then install the mounting bolts
locating pin, and tighten the mounting bolts. the support to the body and the bolts securing
20. Lock the faceplate using the method
10. Lock the flywheel using the method used for removal and tighten the mountingthe support bracket to the cylinder head (see
used for removal and tighten the mounting illustrations). Remove the support assembly
bolts evenly and gradually to the specified
bolts evenly and gradually to the specified torque. and the reinforcing plate.
torque. 7. If necessary, unscrew the three bolts and
21. Install the transmission as described in
11. Install the clutch housing assembly as Chapter 7B remove the bracket from the cylinder head.
described in Chapter 6. Remove the locking 8. Check all components for signs of wear
tool and install the transmission as described16 Engine/gearbox mounts - and damage and replace as necessary.
in Chapter 7A. inspection and replacement 9. When assembling, install the bracket on
the cylinder head, tightening the bolts with
Faceplate Inspection the specified tightening torque.
Removal 1. If improved access is necessary, lift the
10. Install the support and bracket Tighten
12. Remove the transmission as described front of the car and install it on axle supports the mounting bolts
in Chapter 7B. (see - Jacking up the car and installing
13. Do not allow the washer to rotate . supports")
grabbing the ring teeth in the same way as 2. Check the rubber cushion for splits and
the flywheel teeth (see illustration 15.2) Or separation from the metal if such damage is
screw the belt between the flywheel and the detected. replace the support.
cylinder block/crankcase 3. Check that all support connectors are
Note : Do not attempt to lock the faceplate securely tightened; If possible , use a torque
using the locking tool described in Section 3. wrench to check.
14. Loosen and unscrew the bolts securing
the faceplate and remove the outer faceplate
gasket and the torque converter plate
15. Remove the faceplate and its internal -
spacer from the shaft. If the locating pin has
a loose fit at the end of the crankshaft,
remove it and store it with the faceplate for
safekeeping.
Note : The internal and external gaskets of
the faceplate are different and are not
interchangeable.
16.14 Left engine mount mounting bolts
Inspection
(marked with arrows)
16. Check the faceplate and torque
converter plate for signs of wear or damage. 4. Using a large screwdriver or crowbar,
If wear is detected, replace the check for play in the mount, using the
corresponding component (it is not possible screwdriver or crowbar as a lever. If possible,
to replace the faceplate ring gear separately). have a helper move the engine/transmission
back and forth and side to side while you
16.6а Крепящие болты правой опоры 16.6Ь Крепящие болты правой опоры 16.21 Стяжные болты крепления задней
двигателя (отмечены стрелками) - 1.1 двигателя (отмечены стрелками) - 1.6- опоры двигателя (отмечены
и 1.4-литровые двигатели литровые двигатели стрелками)
Бензиновые двигатели. Процедуры ремонта на автомобиле а А • 19
low tightening force 16. Carefully check all components for supports (see “Lifting the car with a jack and
11. Remove the jack from under the engine signs of wear or damage and replace as installing supports”)
Left support necessary. 21. Unscrew the two coupling bolts
17. Install the support assembly onto the securing the rear support to the frame and
12. Remove the battery and its casing as
body and tighten its bolts to the specified gearbox bracket (see illustration ).
described in Chapter 5A
torque. 22. Remove the lower support assembly
18. Install the support on the gearbox 23. Carefully check each component for
under the gearbox. Jack the gearbox under.
bracket and tighten its mounting bolts to the signs of wear and damage and replace if
14. Release and unscrew the two bolts .
specified torque. necessary.
securing the support to the bracket on the 24. Install the rear support and tighten both
19. Remove the jack from under the
gearbox (see illustration) Unscrew the four of its bolts to the specified torque.
transmission, then install the battery and
bolts securing the support to the body and 25. Lower the vehicle to the ground
battery cover as described in Chapter 5A.
remove the support assembly .
15. If necessary, unscrew the fastening Rear support
bolts and remove the bracket from the 20. Put the car on the handbrake , then lift
gearbox the front of the car and install it on axle
FOR • 20 For notes
Chapter 2 Section B:
Diesel engines.
Car repair procedures
Content
General information .................................................................1 Camshaft(s), rocker arms and hydraulic guides - removal,
Measuring compression and checking leaks - description and inspection and installation 9
analysis of results ....................................................................2 Cylinder head - removal and installation .... 10
Basic information about valve timing marks - general information Pallet - removal and installation ............................................... 11
and application ........................................................................3 Oil pump - removal, inspection and installation. 12
Valve cover - removal and installation .....................................4 Oil radiator - removal installation ........................................... 13
Crankshaft pulley - removal and installation ..........................5 Oil seals - replacement ........................................................... .14
Toothed belt housings - removal and installation .................... 6 Oil pressure sensor and level indicator. . 15
Toothed drive belt - removal, inspection, installation and tension Flywheel - removal, inspection and installation ........................ 16
. 7 Engine/gearbox mounts - inspection and replacement 17
Toothed belt sprockets and tension mechanism - removal and Changing the engine oil and oil filter ............. see Chapter 1B
installation ........................................................................ . 8 Checking the engine oil level, see Weekly
checks
Technical data for monitoring and

adjustments
Engine □74 ТО
Designation 074 ТЕО4
8 valve engine ...........................................................
Engine with 16 valves . ... , , 8НХ
Manufacturer code* 8 valve engine.......... .. . .......... ..................... .. . .... .... 8НУ
16 valve engine... ................................................. ............................... 1398см (14 литра)
Volume ...................................................................................................... 73.70 мм
Cylinder diameter. ...................................................................................... 82.00 мм
Piston stroke. ............................................................................................. по часовой стрелке (вид справа от автомобиля) в
Direction of rotation of the crankshaft. . ____ _
передающем конце блока цилиндров
Location of the first cylinder .......................................................................
Maximum output power: 50 кВт при 4000 оборотах в минуту
Engine with 8 valves ,,, ,,, . .. , ...................... .. 66 кВт при 4000 оборотах в минуту
Engine with 16 valves ................................................................ .........
Maximum torque 8 valve engine ............................... .................. ............ 150 Нм при 2000 оборотах в минуту
16 valve engine .................................................................................... 200 Нм при 2000 оборотах в минуту
Compression ratio
Engine with 8 valves ......................................................... .. ............... .. . 17.9 : 1
16 valve engine .................................................................................... .... 18.2 1
'The engine code is printed on a plate located on the front of the cylinder
block, next to the oil filter.
Compression pressure (hot engine, at cranking speed)
Normal ....................................................................................................... 15-25 bar
Maximum allowable difference between any two cylinders .......................... 5 bar
Camshaft drive(s)
Engine:
Engines with 8 valves .............. ......................................................... . зубчатый ремень
Engines with 16 valves ..........................
зубчатый ремень/цепь
Система смазки gear, driven directly from the right end of the crankshaft
Тип масляного насоса 3.5 bar at 4000 rpm, 2 3 bar at 2000 rpm (110'C) 08 bar
Минимальное давление масла ..
Аварийное давление масла

2В • г Дизельные двигатели. Процедуры ремонта на автомобиле
Tightening torques for threaded connections N/m

8 valve engines
Connecting rod lower head bolts First tightening ... ................................... 10
Second puff . Loosen by 180*
Third puff ...................... ............... ...................................................... 15
Fourth puff .......................................................................................................... Rotate by 100*
Camshaft bearing housing ......................................................................... 10
Camshaft position sensor mounting bolts ................................................... 5
Camshaft sprocket First tightening .............................................................. 20
Second puff............................................................................................................ Turn to 55*
Refrigerant outlet pipe bolts ................................................................. 10
Crankshaft position/speed sensor mounting bolts .......................................... . 5
Crankshaft Pulley/Sprocket Bolts First Tightening ........................................... thirty
Second puff........................................................................................................ Rotate 180 *
Cylinder head bolts: First tightening. ........................................................... .... 20
Second puff............... .......................................................................... 40
Third puff ............................................................................................................... Turn 230 '
Valve cover bolts ........................................................................................ 10
Engine to gearbox mounting bolts. ............................................................ 45
Left engine mount to gearbox: Support lever to gearbox bracket ................ 60
Support to the body.............................................................................. 55
Bracket to box ......................................... ......... .................................. 55
Rear engine support to the box Connection of the bracket to the box ......... 60
Connecting the bracket to the frame .................................................... 60
Right engine mount to gearbox: Mount to body ........................................... 45
Support bracket to cylinder head bracket. . thirty
Head bracket to block head ...................................................... 55
Flywheel bolts. First puff ....... ..................................................................... 15
Second puff..................................................... ................................... Tighten by 75*
Fuel pump sprocket nut ................................................................ .. 50
Main Bearing Yoke Bolts: First Tightening ................................................... 5
Second puff .......................................................................................... 10
Bolts securing the main bearing journal to the cylinder block:
First puff...................................................... ..... .................... ...... ....... 10
Second puff .......................................................................................... Loosen 180'
Third puff .............................................................................................. thirty
Fourth puff ............................................................................................ Turn to 140*
Oil injector piston bolt ................................................................................ . 20
Bolts securing the oil pump to the cylinder block .......................................... 10
Wheel bolts ................................... ............................................................. 90
Pan bolts/nuts .............................................................................................. 10
Pan drain plug .............................................................................................. 16
Intermediate timing belt pulley...................................................................... 45
Drive toothed belt tensioner pulley 30
Engines with 16 valves
Connecting rod lower head bolts First tightening .. ......................... ...... 10
Second puff ................................................................................................... Loosen by 180*
Third puff .............................................................................................. 15
Fourth puff ............................................................................................ Turn 100'
Camshaft bearing housing ...................................... .......................... ........ 10
Bolts securing the bearing casing to the cylinder head 10
Camshaft position sensor mounting bolts .................................................. . 5
Camshaft sprocket' First tightening ............................................................ 20
Second puff ...................... .............................................................. Turn 55'
Refrigerant outlet pipe bolts ....................................................................... 10
Crankshaft position/speed and rotation sensor mounting bolts................... .. ....... 5
Crankshaft Pulley/Sprocket Bolts First Tightening . .............................. .... 30
Second puff.......................................................................................................... Turn 180 '
Cylinder head bolts First tightening ........... ...................................................... 20
Second puff 40
Third puff ............................................ . .. . ........................... Turn 230'
Valve cover bolts . .. .............................. 10
Engine to gearbox bolts....................................................... ...................... 45
Left engine mount to gearbox
Support lever to the box bracket. ........ 60
Дизельные двигатели. Процедуры ремонта на автомобиле гв • з
Support to the body .................. ..... ........... ... ................................... 55

Bracket to box ...................................................................................... 55
Rear engine support to the box: Connection of the bracket to the box. . 60
Connecting the bracket to the frame ....... ............................................ 60
Right engine mount to gearbox Support to body . .............................. . 60
Support bracket to cylinder head bracket .. 60
Head bracket to block head. 57
Flywheel bolts First tightening ............................................................. ...... 15
Second puff ... ..... .................... .... ...................... . Turn 75'
Fuel pump sprocket nut. ................................................................................... 50
Main bearing yoke bolts First tightening ........................................................ 5
Second puff.......................................................................................... 10
Bolts securing the main bearing journal to the cylinder block*:
First puff..... ................ .... .................................... 10
Second tightening... ................................. .......................................... Loosen 180*
Third puff............................................ ...... ......................................... thirty
Fourth puff. . . . . .. . ... . Turn 140'
Oil injector piston bolt. . ............................................................................. 20
Bolts securing the oil pump to the cylinder block ....................................... 10
Wheel bolts. .......................... .... ................. ............ 90
Pan bolts/nuts. .......................................................................................... 10
Pan drain plug ................................................ 16
Intermediate timing belt pulley ............................................................. 37
Drive toothed belt tensioner pulley ...................................................... .. 23
'New bolts/nuts should be used
and the cooling system pump. The camshaft engine code consists of three characters (for
drives the intake and exhaust valves by example, VNU) and is printed on a plate on
means of rocker arms that have self- the front of the cylinder block
adjusting hydraulic valve lash compensators
at the points of contact with the cams. The Precautionary measures
How to use this
camshaft rests on bearings located in the An engine is a complex assembly unit -
Head casing . consisting of many units and components.
This Part of Chapter 2 describes those On 16 valve engines, the timing belt drives The engine compartment is designed to
repairs that can be performed on the engine the intake camshaft, high pressure fuel pump maximize the use of engine compartment
without removing it from the vehicle. If the and coolant pump. The exhaust camshaft is space and access to almost all of its
engine has already been removed from the driven by a short chain with a hydraulic components is extremely limited. In many
vehicle and disassembled as described in tensioner. One camshaft controls the intake cases, when repairing or servicing it is
Part C, then the preliminary disassembly valves, and the other controls the exhaust necessary to remove or move engine
procedures can be omitted valves. The valves are driven by rocker arms components, disconnect electrical wiring,
Note that some procedures, although supported by cams with hydraulic valve lash disconnect hoses and pipes, removing all
theoretically possible, can be performed . compensators. The camshafts are supported kinds of clamps and brackets.
without removing the engine from the car, for by bearings in the camshaft housing and Before repairs and maintenance, check
example, piston/connecting rod assembly. cylinder head. the availability of the necessary tools and
are not performed as separate operations . The high pressure fuel pump supplies fuel equipment. Compare the complexity of the
Typically, several additional procedures must to the fuel line, then the fuel flows to the work and your skills. Allow sufficient time for
be performed (in addition to cleaning electronically controlled injectors and finally each operation and be prepared for the
components and lubrication channels). directly to the combustion chambers. This unexpected. Every complex engine operation
Therefore, such procedures are classified as design differs from the previous one, where requires endurance and patience.
major repair procedures and are described in the fuel pump supplied high pressure fuel to
Part C of this chapter. each injector. On earlier models, a
Part C describes engine/transmission conventional fuel pump required ultra-precise
removal from the vehicle and complete repair calibration and timing. These problems are
procedures . which are possible. now solved by a high pressure pump,
electronic injectors and an electronic engine
Engine Description
management system.
SY series engine is the result of The crankshaft rotates on five
cooperation between Peugeot/Citroen and conventional type main bearings. The play is
Ford. The four-cylinder turbine engine is adjusted with washers on the 2nd main
equipped with a separate overhead camshaft bearing.
(8OHC) and has 8 valves, or a double The pistons are weight balanced and
overhead camshaft (DOHC) and has 16 mounted on movable pins with retaining rings
valves The engine is mounted transversely at The oil pump is driven by a gear
the front of the car A gearbox is connected to transmission from the crankshaft. The
the left side of the engine manual often identifies the engine not only by
On 8-valve engines, a timing belt drives displacement, but also by engine code. The
the camshaft, the high-pressure fuel pump
Дизельные двигатели. Процедуры ремонта на автомобиле гв • з
Due to restricted access, many of the C) Disconnect the electronic engine

photographs in this chapter were taken from management system connecting wire
the engine removed from the vehicle. located in the plastic battery housing. as
Warning: Be careful when working with described in Chapter 4B.
A engine fuel system components,

especially those under pressure. Before
4. Differences in compression readings
between cylinders are of primary importance.
performing any operations related to or Acceptable values are given in the Technical
concerning the fuel system, refer to the Data.
specific information given in Chapter 4B, 5. On a diesel engine it is much more
Subsection 2. difficult to determine the cause of insufficient
compression than on a gasoline engine.
Repair operations carried out Diagnosis by introducing oil into the cylinder
without removing the engine cannot be final, since the oil can settle in the
a) Compression test. prechamber or recess on the piston without
b) Removing and installing the valve cover. getting to the rings. But this procedure can be
c) Removing and installing the crankshaft carried out as a preliminary procedure.
pulley 6. All cylinders should show Deviation
Removing and installing the toothed drive results close to each other. larger than the
belt cover. established ones indicate a malfunction.
e) Removing, adjusting and installing the Note that compression (pressure creation) is
toothed drive belt quickly created on a good engine. Low
О Removing and installing the timing compression after the first stroke of the piston
belt and sprocket tensioning mechanism and rising during subsequent strokes
d) Replacement of camshaft seals. indicates wear of the piston rings. Low
b) Removal, inspection and installation of the compression during the first and subsequent
camshaft with rocker arms/drives. strokes of the piston indicates a loose fit of
I) Removal and installation of the pallet. the valves, or that it is “cutting” (that is,
]) Removal and installation of the oil pump, j) pressure is leaking) through the gasket under
Replacement of crankshaft oil seals. the head ( A crack in the head may also be
1) Inspect and replace engine/gearbox the cause.) Carbon deposits on the backs of
mounts. valves can also cause low compression.
ch) Removal, inspection and installation of 7. Low compression in two adjacent
the flywheel. cylinders is possible due to a pressure leak
through the head gasket between them. This
2 Measuring compression and will be indicated by the presence of coolant in
checking for -2^ leaks - description the engine oil.
and analysis of results ' 8. If the measurement results are unusually
high, then carbon deposits have probably
Compression measurement formed in the cylinder head, valves and
Note: To measure compression, use a pistons . In this case, you should remove the
compression meter. designed specifically for cylinder head and remove carbon deposits
diesel engines. (see part C).
1. If the traction and dynamic
characteristics of your car have deteriorated.
or there are failures in engine operation, the
cause of which cannot be the fuel system,
then a compression test may help to
understand the cause. If the test is carried out
regularly. it can indicate a malfunction even
before its visible signs appear.
2. Due to higher pressures, only a special
compression gauge should be used. which
has a sensor - adapter that screws into the
hole of the injector or spark plug. On these
models, an adapter sensor is used to avoid
damaging fuel system components. You
shouldn't buy it for one-time use, but try to
borrow one, or have the compression
measured at a service station.
3. If the compression tester does not come
with instructions, follow these steps:
a) The battery must be in good working order,
the air filter must be clean, and the
engine must be at operating
temperature.
c) Before starting the measurement, unscrew
the glow plugs as described in Chapter
5C.
2В • г Дизельные двигатели. Процедуры ремонта на автомобиле
Checking for leaks removing the pulley) to turn the crankshaft bolts that secure the filter bracket
9. The test determines whether there is a
loss of compressed air supplied to the
cylinder. This test is carried out instead of
measuring compression and other
procedures and is more accurate, since air
leaks indicate where the loss of pressure is
occurring (piston rings, valves or head
gasket),
10. The equipment needed to perform the
test is unlikely to be available to a home
mechanic. If you suspect insufficient
compression, have this test performed at a using a suitable socket and extension rod. 6. Disconnect the wires from the injectors .
workshop. 8. Rotate the crankshaft, aligning the then make sure that all electrical connections
mounting hole in the camshaft sprocket on the valve cover/exhaust manifold are
timing marks - general information and bushing with the corresponding hole in the disconnected.
application cylinder head. Note that the crankshaft
should only be rotated clockwise (viewed
Note: Do not rotate the crankshaft or
from the right). Use a small mirror to ensure
camshaft while they are locked in the
sprocket bushing hole alignment. The
installation position. If the engine
camshaft is installed correctly when the
must be left in this condition for a long
sprocket bushing hole is aligned with the
period of time , place warning notices
corresponding hole in the cylinder head.
in the passenger compartment and in
9. Insert a bolt, pin or drill with a diameter of
the engine compartment. This will reduce the
5 mm into the hole in the crankshaft sprocket
risk of accidentally damaging the engine's
bushing and into the corresponding hole in
retaining pins while cranking the starter.
the oil pump (see illustration) If necessary,
1. The alignment holes are located in the carefully turn the crankshaft in both directions
crankshaft sprocket boss and in the camshaft until the pin fits into the mounting hole in the
sprocket bushing. The holes are used to align block.
the crankshaft and camshaft with the piston 10. Insert a bolt, pin or 8mm drill into the
positioned halfway in the liner. This ensures hole in the camshaft sprocket bushing and
constant valve timing when removing and align with the hole in the cylinder head (see 6.3 Loosen the clamp and disconnect the
installing the timing belt. Once the mounting illustration) turbocharger outlet hose - 8 valve engines
holes are aligned with the slots on the head 11. In this way, the crankshaft and
and face of the cylinder block. insert pins of camshafts are blocked from unwanted
suitable diameter into them to lock the rotation.
camshaft and crankshaft in this position. 3.10 Insert an 8mm bolt, pin or drill into the
2. Please note that the type of fuel system hole (marked by arrows ) in the camshaft
used on these engines, instead of a sprocket bushing and align with the hole in
conventional diesel fuel pump, provides a the cylinder head
high pressure fuel pump that does not require
calibration. Therefore, the operation of 4 Valve cover -
aligning the fuel pump sprocket with the removal and installation
camshaft and crankshaft should be skipped.
3. To align the mounting holes, follow these
procedures: Warning: Before performing operations,
4. Put the car on the handbrake, then lift
the front end and install it on axle supports
(see “Lifting the car with a jack and
Aplease refer to the information
contained in subsection 1
installing supports”). Remove the right front Removal

wheel . 8 valve engines
3.9 Insert a bolt, pin or drill with a diameter of Note: The valve cover is a one-piece part with
5 mm into the hole (marked with an arrow) in the intake manifold and oil separator
the crankshaft sprocket bushing and into the 1. Disconnect the battery (see Chapter 5A).
corresponding hole in the oil pump 2. Remove the air cleaner assembly as
described in Chapter 4B.
5. To gain access to the crankshaft pulley
3. Loosen the clamp and disconnect the
area to turn the engine, remove the plastic
turbocharger outlet hose from the oil filter
wheel arch protection secured with plastic
housing outlet flange (see illustration)
rivets. To rivet, remove the central pin, then
4. Loosen the clamp of the small cooling
use a lever to remove the rivets. Remove the
pipe . located in front of the resonator.
protection from under the wing. If necessary,
Unscrew the two fastening bolts, lift the right
disconnect the cooling pipes to ensure
edge and remove the resonator (see
normal access for subsequent operations.
illustrations) Remove the O-ring.
6. Remove the upper and lower timing belt
5. Remove the diesel fuel filter . as
casings as described in subsection 6
described in Chapter 1B. then unscrew the 3
7. Remove the pulley mounting bolt (without
ав • в Дизельные двигатели. Процедуры ремонта на автомобиле
6.4 a Unscrew the two fastening bolts arrows) from the front...
(marked with arrows), lift the right edge...

connect all the vacuum tubes, remembering
their original location
7. Remove the clamps and disconnect the
fuel return pipes from the injectors. Plug the
holes to prevent contamination.
8. Thoroughly clean the connections of the
fuel return pipes located on the right side of
the valve cover. Squeeze the keys on the
connectors and disconnect the two pipes
(see illustration) Plug the tubes and Установка
connections to prevent dirt from entering and 16. 3 Remove the plastic cover from the
16. Установка осуществляется в по-
fuel losses. Unscrew the screw of the clamp
securing the fuel lines to the support bracket
9. Disconnect the fuel temperature sensor
from the bracket and move the tube with the
hand pump lever to the rear
10. Unscrew the two bolts securing the
exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold and the
bolt securing the pipe to the rear wall of the
cylinder head (see illustration )
11. Remove the two bolts securing the
EGR valve to the left end of the cylinder
head, disconnect the vacuum hose, then
remove the valve and pipe. Remove the O- engine - engines with 16 valves 4.14 Disconnect the air intake pipe from the
ring from the pipe. turbocharger and air meter - engines with 16
12. Remove the eight bolts securing the valves
valve cover to the intake manifold at the front
and two. fastening from behind Move the
cover assembly further (see illustrations)
Remove the rubber insulating seals
4.16a Valve cover tightening sequence - 8-

valve engines
4.10 Unscrew the bolt securing the - 4.16b Valve cover tightening sequence -
recirculation pipe to the rear wall of the engines with 16 valves
4.8 Squeeze the keys (marked with arrows) cylinder head - engines with 8 valves
on the connectors and disconnect the two 15. Unscrew the seven bolts and remove the
fuel return pipes - 8-valve engines valve cover from the camshaft bearing
4.4b ...to remove the resonator box from the housings. With the valve cover removed,
turbocharger - engines with 8 valves cover the camshaft bearing housings with a
clean cloth to prevent dirt from entering.
13. Remove the plastic casing from the 4.12b ...and two bolts (marked by arrows ) at
engine. The casing is secured with rubber the rear - engines with 8 valves
washers. To remove, pull them up (see
illustration)
14. Remove the clamps and disconnect the
air intake tube from the turbocharger and air
meter (see illustration)
15. 2a Unscrew the 8 bolts (marked with
2В • 7
рядке, обратном порядку снятия, вклю-
чая следующие пункты:
а) Исследуйте прокладку крышки на
наличие признаков повреждения и
износа и, в случае необходимости.
замените. На двигателях с 8
клапанами, смажьте чистым
моторным маслом снятые про-
кладки.
У Затяните болты клапанной крыш

КИ С установленным усилием 5.3Ь ..и вставьте болт/стержень (от-
затяжки в указанной последова- мечен стрелкой) в отверстие в махо-
5.3а Вставьте болт или штифт на 12
тельности (см. иллюстрации). вике (отмечено стрелкой) для предо-
мм в отверстие в правой части блока
цилиндров твращения вращения
5 Шкив коленчатого вала
- снятие и установка
Снятие
1. Снимите приводной ремень вспо-
могательных устройств, как описано в
(лаве 1В Поверните натяжитель против
часовой стрелки и вставьте стержень
диаметра 3.0 мм или сверло для фик-
сации натяжителя поодаль от привод-
ного ремня (см. иллюстрацию) 5.4а Выкрутите крепящий болт шкива 3. 4Ь ...снимите шкив со звездочки
2. Распустите хомут и отделите проме- коленчатого вала... коленчатого вала
жуточную выхлопную трубу от каталити-
commercial converter with a special fastening compound for 6. Toothed drive belt casings -
3. To fix the crankshaft when working under threaded connections The manufacturer - removal and installation No.
the engine, use the special tool Cigoen Lio recommends using a compound of the
0194-C by inserting it into the hole in the right !_osshe type (it can be purchased in the Warning: Refer to the information
company’s network): if a compound of this
side of the block above the lower section of
the flywheel. Turn the crankshaft. until the
tool is in the corresponding hole in the
type is not available, any high-quality
analogue will do
ARemoval
contained in subsection 1.
flywheel. If the specified tool is not available, 7. Install the crankshaft pulley securing bolt Upper casing
insert a 12 mm bolt or pin into the hole (see with the seal. Pull the bolt to the specified
1. Disconnect the battery (see Chapter 5A)
illustrations). tightening torque, then tighten it to the
2. On 16-valve engines, remove the plastic
Note: The holes in the block and in the specified angle, preventing the crankshaft
engine cover. The cover is secured with
flywheel are simply aligned. To block the from rotating according to the method used
rubber washers. Pull them up to remove
crankshaft with the pulley bolt removed, do during the removal procedure. After
3. Thoroughly clean the direct and return
not place it in the top dead center position or tightening the bolt, remove the locking tool
fuel pipe connectors
in the position of the timing marks. from the crankshaft sprocket.
8. Connect the intermediate exhaust pipe
with the catalytic converter
4. С помощью головки и удлинительного вертером. подачи расположенные над верхним

стержня выкрутите крепящий болт, затем 9. Установите ремень привода вспо- кожухом зубчатого ремня Сжимая
снимите шкив со звездочки коленчатого могательных устройств, как описано в шпонки на разъеме, отсоедините две
вала (см. иллюстрации) (лаве 1В. трубки (см. иллюстрацию} Заглушите
Предостережение: Не прикасайтесь
внешнего кольца магнитного датчика
звездочки коленчатого вала пальцами и
не допускайте контакта кольца с
металлическими частицам.
Установка
5. Установите шкив на звездочку ко-
ленчатого вала, убедившись, что метка
на шкиве совмещена с пазом на звез-
дочке (см. иллюстрацию). 5.5 Метка в шкиве коленчатого вала
6. Тщательно очистите резьбу крепя- 5.1 Вставьте стержень или сверло для (отмечена стрелкой) должна совмес-
щего болта шкива, затем обработайте фиксации натяжителя в указанной тится с меткой (отмечена стрелкой)
позиции звездочки
2В • 8
вв. в П-зеппные двигатели. Процедуры ремонта на автомобиле
tubes and connections to avoid -

contamination and fuel loss
4. On engines with 16 valves, disconnect
the pressure sensor wire on the intake
manifold (see illustration ).
under the engine Jack up the engine
6. Unscrew the three bolts securing the -
right engine mount to the bracket and the
two bolts securing the mount to the body.
7. Remove the support from the car and
install the reinforcing plate back (see
illustration) remove the upper inner belt casing 6.7 Unscrew the main bolts and remove
8. Move the electrical connector and fuel - the right engine mount , leading to serious
6.4 On engines with 16 valves, disconnect
wires from the upper casing (see illustration ) and expensive repairs,
the intake manifold pressure sensor wire -
9. Loosen the four bolts securing the from the cylinder head. 2. The timing belt should be replaced at
engine mount bracket to the cylinder head. specified intervals (see Chapter 1B) or earlier
Move the bracket away from the cylinder Installation
if it is dirty or makes unusual noises during
head to ensure sufficient play when removing 18. Installation of the covers is carried out
operation (possibly due to uneven wear).
the top casing. in the reverse order of removal, taking into
account the following points:
3. When removing the drive belt, it is a
10. Unscrew the five fastening bolts and convenient opportunity to simultaneously
remove the upper casing of the timing belt - a) Make sure that each section of the -
check the condition of the cooling pump (for
(see illustrations) shroud is positioned correctly and that
refrigerant leaks). This will help avoid having
the shroud securing bolts are tightened
Bottom casing securely.
to remove the timing belt again when the
11. Remove the crankshaft pulley as pump fails.
b) Make sure all affected hoses are
described in subsection 5. reconnected and secured with clamps.
12. Remove the top casing, as above
Removal
c) Tighten the engine mount bracket bolts
13. Using a double-sided wrench, move the 4. Remove the accessory drive belt as
to the specified torque.
tension lever to release the locking pin/drill, described in Chapter 1B
b) Before installing the accessory drive belt,
then rotate the tension mechanism until it is return the tensioner to its original
5. Remove the crankshaft pulley as
fully released. described in subsection 5
position and install the locking pin/drill.
14. Unscrew the five bolts securing the e) Finally, connect the battery and energize 6. Remove the upper and lower timing belt
casing, taking into account that the bolts are the fuel system as described in Chapter casings as described in subsection 6,
fixed in the casing and cannot be completely 4B. 7. Loosen the screw and remove the -
removed. Remove the lower casing from crankshaft position sensor adjacent to the
under the wheel arch (see illustrations) 7 Toothed drive belt - removal, crankshaft sprocket boss. Move it out of the
Upper inner casing (16 valve inspection, installation and tension work area (see illustration)
engines) 8. Unscrew the fastening screw and remove
general information the drive toothed belt protection bracket, also
15. Remove the camshaft sprocket as
described in subsection 8 1. The timing belt transmits rotation to the adjacent to the protrusion of the crankshaft
16. Unscrew the nut and remove the wires camshafts, high-pressure fuel pump and sprocket (see illustration ).
cooling system pump from the 9. Lock the crankshaft and camshaft in the
from the support post at the rear of the upper
crankshaft sprockets. If the belt position in which they were fixed during the
inner casing.
breaks or comes off the pulleys, the assembly operation as
17. Unscrew the fastening bolts and
pistons can destroy the valve heads.
6.3 While squeezing the keys on the 6.8a Move the electrical connector... b.vb ..and fuel lines from the upper casing
connector, connect the two tubes
Дизельные двигатели. Процедуры ремонта на
автомобиле гв • з
6.10a Location of the fastening bolts (marked with arrows ) of the 6.1 Об Расположение крепящих болтов (отмечены стрел-
upper casing of the timing belt - engines with 8 valves ками) верхнего кожуха приводного зубчатого ремня -
6.14a Unscrew the bolts (marked with arrows) securing the lower двигатели с 16 клапанами
casing. 6.14Ь ...и снимите нижний кожух из-под арки колеса

described in subsection 3. If necessary , compared to the cost of
temporarily remove the crankshaft pulley bolt repairs that would have to be made if the belt
to ensure rotation of the shaft breaks. If signs of oil contamination are
10. Insert the socket wrench into the six- - detected, determine the source of the leak
point hole on the timing belt tensioner pulley. and correct the problem. Wash the working
Loosen the tension mechanism pulley bolt area of the timing belt
and rotate the tension mechanism. loosening 7. 8 The fastening screw (marked with an
the belt tension (see illustration ) When -
arrow ) of the drive toothed belt protection
sagging occurs. temporarily tighten the bracket and all adjacent components from
pulley bolt. traces of oil Check the smooth rotation of the
11. Noting the direction of rotation. intermediate pulley, the tensioner pulley and
7.7 Unscrew the screw (marked with an the cooling pump pulley. Replace these parts Установка
arrow ) securing the crankshaft position if necessary 13. Перед началом установки убедитесь
sensor and remove the timing belt from the Note: Manufacturers recommend replacing 7.10 Вставьте торцовый ключ в шести-
sprockets and pulleys. the tension pulley and intermediate pulley, угольное отверстие (отмечено
regardless of their condition. стрелкой) на шкиве и вращайте
Inspection механизм натяжения
12. Replace the belt, regardless of its
condition. The cost of a new belt is negligible
ав • в Дизельные двигатели. Процедуры ремонта на автомобиле
pieces of steel strip (see TOOL 1). Do not

from the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets use a locking pin to prevent sprocket rotation
and turn the crankshaft by the pulley bolt when the bolt is loose.
clockwise 10 full turns. Install the locking tool 3. Unscrew the fastening bolt and remove
into the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets. the sprocket from the camshaft (see
20. Make sure that the tension indicator illustration ) Examine the camshaft oil seal for
arrow is still in the aligned position (see oil leakage and, if necessary, replace it as
illustration 7.18) If that's not the case. remove described in subsection 14
the belt and begin the installation process 4. Clean the camshaft sprocket thoroughly
again, returning to step 13 and... if there are signs of wear, replace
21. After installing and tensioning the belt,
install the tachometer sensor and securely
Installation
tighten its fastening bolt. 5. Install the sprocket onto the camshaft ,
22. Install the lower and upper timing belt making sure that the mounting lug is aligned
guards as described in subsection 6. Then with the groove in the camshaft (see
install the crankshaft pulley as described in illustration)
subsection 5 6. Install the sprocket mounting bolt and
23. Install the accessory drive belt as seal. Tighten the bolt to the specified torque
described in Chapter 1B while preventing the camshaft from rotating
using the method used in the removal
8 Toothed belt sprockets and procedure.
tension mechanism - removal and
installation
7.16a Position of the timing belt Camshaft sprocket Removal

1 Camshaft sprocket 1. Remove the timing belt as described in
2 Intermediate pulley subsection 7.
3 Crankshaft sprocket 2. Remove the locking pin from the
4 Cooling pump sprocket 5 Tensioner pulley camshaft sprocket and loosen the sprocket
6 High pressure fuel pump sprocket securing bolt.
that the crankshaft is still locked with pins

(see subsection 3) 8.3 Unscrew the fastening bolt and remove
14. Align the hole in the high pressure fuel the sprocket from the camshaft
pump sprocket with the corresponding hole
in the mounting bracket. Lock the sprocket
with a 5mm bolt, pin or drill through the hole
in the sprocket and the corresponding hole in
the bracket.
15. Install the timing belt onto the
crankshaft sprocket, then install the timing
belt guard bracket and tighten the fastening
bolt securely. 7.18 Align the indicator arrow (A) with the
16. After pre-tensioning, place the belt on alignment pin (B)
the intermediate pulley, camshaft sprocket,
high-pressure fuel pump sprocket, cooling
system pump sprocket and tensioner pulley
(see illustrations)
17. Remove the locking tool from the high
pressure fuel pump sprocket .
18. Loosen the tension pulley bolt. Using a
socket wrench, turn the tension mechanism
counterclockwise, turning the indicator arrow
clockwise until. until it aligns with the
mounting rod (see illustration).
19. Remove the locking tool
Tool Type 1: The sprocket locking tool can be
made from two pieces of steel strip (one
longer and the other shorter) and three nuts
and bolts , so that one nut and bolt forms the
pivot point of the forked tool, and the other
two nuts and bolts, while at the ends of the
fork, participated in the engagement of the
sprocket with the spokes.
To prevent the preshaft races from rotating

while the sprocket bolt is loosened, use the
7.16b Having pre-tensioned, put the belt on sprocket locking tool. If you do not have a
the sprockets and pulleys special branded tool, use one made from
Дизельные двигатели. Процедуры ремонта на автомобиле ЕВ • 11
sprocket. Drill a third hole of larger diameter the pulley. Replace the pulley if there is any
for the sprocket lock nut washer. doubt about its condition or if it shows signs
of wear or damage.
If not, you need to prepare another tool (see
TOOL 2)
Installation
19. First unscrew the sprocket lock nut, 27. Install the tension pulley , making sure
install a homemade device and attach it to the pulley arm is aligned with the alignment
pin (see illustration)
the sprocket with two suitable bolts. Without
turning the sprocket, unscrew its lock nut
(see illustrations ) The nut will exert pressure
8.5 Align the protrusion of the sprocket with on the tool as it unscrews, removing the
the groove (marked by arrows) in the pre- sprocket from the tapered shaft. After -
shaft disconnecting the cone joint, remove the tool,
completely unscrew the nut and remove the
7. Align the alignment hole in the camshaft sprocket from the pump shaft.
sprocket bushing with the corresponding
20. Clean the sprocket thoroughly and... if
hole in the cylinder head and install the
there are signs of wear or damage. replace.
locking rod to secure the camshaft.
8. Install the timing belt . as described in
subsection 7. 8.11b ...and remove the wood key
Crankshaft sprocket
Removal
9. Remove the timing belt as described in
subsection 7.
10. Remove the crankshaft pulley securing
bolt (temporarily installed to ensure engine
rotation).
11. Remove the sprocket from the
8.11a Remove the sprocket from the crank of
crankshaft and remove the key (see
that shaft...
illustrations)
12. Examine the crankshaft oil seal for oil 8.196 Unscrew the lock nut , removing the
leakage and, if necessary, replace it as sprocket
28. Install the timing belt as described in
13. Clean the crankshaft sprocket subsection 7.
thoroughly. Replace if cracks, signs of wear
or damage are present . Intermediate pulley
Installation Removal
14. Install the key on the crankshaft. then 29. Remove the drive timing belt as
install the crankshaft sprocket, aligning it with described in subsection 7
the crankshaft pulley boss. 30. Unscrew the lock nut and remove the
15. Install the timing belt as described in 8.19a Install a homemade device on the fuel idler pulley from its mounting bracket
subsection 7. pump sprocket
Fuel pump sprocket Installation

21. Install the pump sprocket with the lock
Removal nut and tighten the nut to the specified
16. Remove the drive timing belt . as torque. Prevent the sprocket from rotating
described in subsection 7 while tightening the nut using a locking tool.
17. Using a suitable socket, remove the
22. Install the timing belt under water, as
pump sprocket lock nut . The sprocket can be
secured using a tool that engages the holes
in the sprocket (see TOOL 1). Coolant pump sprocket
18. The pump sprocket is mounted on a -
23. The coolant pump sprocket is an
tapered shaft. To wedge the connection
integral part of the pump and cannot be
INEGRUAENT removed. Removing the coolant pump is
described in Chapter 3.
Mechanism pulley
tension
Removal
24.Remove the toothed drive belt as
25. Unscrew the fastening bolt and remove
the pulley.
sprocket removal tool from a short piece of
26. Clean the tension pulley , but do not
steel strip. Drill two holes in the strip
use a strong solvent that may penetrate the
corresponding to the two holes in the
pulley bearings. Check the smooth rotation of
2В • 12 Дизельные двигатели. Процедуры ремонта на автомобиле
(see illustration ) place them in appropriate containers for amplifier O-rings.

31. Clean the idler pulley, but do not use a proper reassembly. The cams must be 20. Remove the fuel filter as
strong solvent that may penetrate the pulley completely immersed in oil to prevent air from
bearings. Check for smooth rotation of the entering them.
pulley. Replace the pulley if there is any 12. Reinstall the 5 O-rings between the
doubt about its condition or if there are signs housing and the cylinder head.
of wear or damage.
Installation 13. Remove the valve cover as described in
32. Install the intermediate pulley and its subsection 4
fastening bolt. Tighten the fastening bolt/nut
to the specified tightening torque.
33. Install the timing belt with water. as
9. 6 Bolts (marked with arrows) of the upper
9 Camshaft(s), rocker arms and camshaft bearing housing - engines with 8
hydraulic guides - valves
Removal
8 valve engines
1. Remove the valve cover as described in 9.4 Unscrew the fastening bolts ( marked
subsection 4. with arrows) of the vacuum pump - engines
2. Remove the camshaft sprocket as with 8 valves
3. Install the right engine mount ,
moderately tightening the bolts; it will only 21. 8 Unscrew the nut and remove the
support the engine during the camshaft wires from the support post of the upper inner
removal procedure. timing belt housing - 16-valve engines
4. Unscrew the fastening bolts and remove
the vacuum pump on the left side of the
cylinder head. Remove the pump O-rings
(see illustration)
5. Disconnect the connector, unscrew the
fastening bolt and remove the camshaft
position sensor from the cylinder head. 9.10 Remove each rocker arm - 8 valve
6. Working in a spiral manner, gradually engines
and evenly unscrew the bolts of the upper
camshaft bearing housing (see illustration)
Carefully lift the cover.
7. Remembering the location, lift the
camshaft and remove it from the casing.
Remove its seals.
8. To remove the rocker arms and hydraulic
guides, unscrew the 13 bolts and remove the
lower part of the camshaft bearing housing
9. Prepare eight small, clean plastic boxes
and
8.30 Unscrew the lock nut and remove the

idler pulley from its mounting bracket
14. Remove the intake manifold as

15. Remove the fuel injectors as described
in Chapter 4B.
17. Install the right engine mount .
moderately tighten the bolts; it will only
8.27 Make sure the pulley arm (marked with support the engine during the camshaft
an arrow) is aligned with the locating pin, removal procedure.
number them from 1 to 8. or divide a large 18. Unscrew the nut and remove the wires
box into eight. from the mounting bracket at the rear of the
10. Remove each rocker arm. ' Place the inner upper timing belt casing (see
rocker arms in the appropriate position; illustration).
separate compartments in a box or separate 19. Disconnect the hose from the vacuum
boxes (see illustration) brake booster. Unscrew the fastening bolts
11. cams removed from the cylinder head in and remove the vacuum booster from the left
them . Remove the hydraulic guides and side of the cylinder head. Remove the
9.20 Unscrew the bolts (marked with arrows) 26. Prepare sixteen small, clean plastic yourself.
and remove the fuel filter mounting bracket - boxes and number them 1 to 8 for the intake 30. Gradually unscrew the bolts securing
engines with 16 valves are described in rocker arms and 1 to 8 for the exhaust rocker the preshaft bearing housing , then unscrew
Chapter 1B. then unscrew the three bolts and arms; or divide a large box into sixteen the two bolts securing the chain tension
remove the filter mounting bracket (see compartments mechanism assembly. First remove the
illustration) 21. Unscrew the fastening bolts 27. Remove the rocker arms Place them in bolts,
and remove the upper inner casing of the appropriate prepared containers (see
drive timing belt (see illustration ) illustration)
22. Loosen the mounting screw and 28. cams removed from the cylinder head
remove the camshaft position sensor from its in them . Remove the hydraulic guides and
location (see illustration ) place them in appropriate containers for
23. Remove the six bolts and lower heat proper subsequent assembly (see illustration
shield on the front of the catalytic converter. 9.22 Loosen the fastening screw (marked -
24. Unscrew the three fastening bolts and with an arrow) and remove the camshaft
remove the upper heat-resistant shield (see position sensor from its location - engines
illustration) with 16 valves) The cams must be completely
25. Working in the reverse sequence of immersed in oil to prevent air from entering
tightening ( see illustration 9.72) Gradually - them.
and evenly unscrew the outer fastening bolts 29. Check for markings on the camshaft
of the bearing casing 9.21 Unscrew the bearing housings . They should be marked
fastening bolts and remove the upper inner A1 to A4 for the intake camshaft and E1 to
casing of the timing belt of the drive - engines E4 for the exhaust camshaft (see illustration)
with 16 camshaft valves from the internal Also check the location of the bearing caps:
thrust struts. Carefully remove the casing the circular stamps in the center of each
with camshafts from the cylinder head ( see housing should face the engine exhaust
illustration) Place the housing on the bench manifold. If there is no marking or the location
with the camshafts on top. cannot be recorded, mark each housing
9.24 Снимите верхний жаростойкий

щиток с выпускного коллектора и 9.25 Снимите кожух подшипников с 9.27Снимите коромысла...
турбонагнетателя - двигатели с 16 распредвалами с головки блока ци-
клапанами линдров -двигатели с 16 клапанами
9.30 Извлеките оба распредвала из

9.28 ...и гидравлические кулачки 9.29 Маркировка (отмечена стрелкой) кожуха подшипников с цепью и меха-
-двигатели с 16 клапанами корпуса подшипников распредвала - низмом натяжения - двигатели с 16
двигатели с 16 клапанами клапанами
гв • па Дизельные двигатели. Процедуры ремонта на автомобиле
then both camshafts with a chain and tension Mating surfaces without gaskets require a purchased from the Sigoep branded network
mechanism (see illustration ) Remove the suitable sealant. Manufacturers recommend 49. Place the upper casing over the guide
exhaust camshaft oil seal, move the tension SosTLe Mok sealant for these purposes. pins and hand-tighten the bolts gradually and
mechanism assembly, then remove the 39. Make sure the crankshaft is still locked evenly. in the specified sequence until a
chain from the camshaft sprocket in the assembly position as described in stable
31. Carefully remove the four injector tube subsection 3, preventing the valves from
O-rings from the camshaft bearing housing contacting the pistons during installation.
(see illustration). Note that installation will 40. the holes in the guides with hydraulic
require four new O-rings with four safety cams in the cylinder head with clean engine
bushings. The safety bushings (part number oil .
198260 SFoep) are used only during 41. Insert the hydraulic cams into the
assembly and are used to correctly install the corresponding holes in the cylinder head if
O-rings in the injector tube when installing the cams have not been replaced.
the camshaft bearing housing 42. Lubricate the rocker arms and align -
them with the cams and valve lifters.
Inspection 43. Carefully apply sealant to the mating
32. Clean the mating surface of the cylinder
surface of the cylinder head/lower camshaft
head and camshaft bearing housing of any 9.47 Place the camshaft in its position and
bearing housing and install 5 new O-rings
old insulation. Use a suitable liquid insulation lubricate the mating surface of the casing
(see illustration).
solvent (available from your dealer) and a with sealant - engines with 8 valves
soft putty knife, do not use a metal scraper to
avoid damaging the surface. If a gasket is
missing, cleanliness of the mating surfaces is
very important.
33. Clean any traces of oil, dirt and grease
from both components with a dry, clean, lint-
free cloth. Make sure all oil grooves are
clean.
34. Check the cams and camshaft bearing
journals for wear. If the surface of the cam
contours is damaged, accelerated wear 9.44 Insert the guide pins into the mounting
occurs. holes (A), install the casing and tighten the
Note: If wear is found on the cam contour bolts in the sequence shown - 8-valve
surface, check the corresponding rocker - engines
arm. It's probably also worn out.
35. Examine the condition of the working -
surfaces of bearings in
9.31 Carefully remove the four O-rings of the

injector tube - engines with 16 valves
9.43 Apply sealant to the mating surface 44. Insert two pins or 12mm drill bits into
and install 5 new (marked with arrows) O- the cylinder head mounting holes to properly
rings - 8-valve engines to the camshaft install the camshaft bearing housing in its
position. Suitable guide rods Ho 0194-Y can
bearing housing(s) and/or cylinder head. If
be purchased from Sproen. Install the lower
wear is detected, replace both mating parts
bearing housing on the pins, insert the bolts
as they are paired.
and tighten them by hand. in the established
36. Check the rocker arms and cams for sequence (see illustration).
binding, splits or other damage etc. if 45. Remove the guide pins and tighten the
necessary , replace. Also check the condition casing bolts in the sequence described
of the holes in the guides with cams in the above with the specified tightening torque.
cylinder head. As with camshafts, excessive 46. Lubricate the camshaft bearing
wear in this area will require a cylinder head journals with clean engine oil and install the
replacement. camshaft in its position.
37. On engines with 16 valves, check the 47. Carefully lubricate the mating surface of
condition of the engine chain, timing the lower camshaft bearing housing with
sprockets and tensioner assembly. Replace sealant (see illustration)
components that show signs of wear or 48. Insert two pins or drills into the 12mm
damage. mounting holes in the lower camshaft bearing
38. Replace all seals, O -rings and gaskets housing. to guide the top casing into its
that were removed during disassembly. position. Suitable Mo 0194-14 pins can be
9.53 Промежуток между звездочкой и

9.49 Последовательность затяжки концом старого датчика должен со- 9.60а Установите новые кольцевые
болтов верхнего кожуха распредвала - ставлять 1.2 мм - двигатели с 8 кла- уплотнители трубок инжектора в ко-
двигатели с 8 клапанами панами жух подшипников распредвала
9.606 ...and push the seals into place using 9.61a Install the drive chain on the camshaft 9.616 ...aligned with the installation marks
the appropriate socket - engines with 16 sprockets so that the two dark chain links (marked with an arrow) on each sprocket -
valves (marked with an arrow) ... engines with 16 valves
contact between the upper and lower casing Connected to one of the three jumpers of the scrap hole guides with hydraulic cams in the
(see illustration). signal ring (see illustration). Tighten the bolt cylinder head.
50. Remove the guide pins and tighten the to the specified torque. 58. Install the hydraulic cams . if they have
housing to the specified torque in the same 54. Rotate the camshaft sprocket to a not been replaced, into the corresponding
sequence. position where it is possible to install its holes in the cylinder head.
51. Install a new camshaft oil seal as locking tool, then install the timing belt as 59. Lubricate the rocker arms and install
described in subsection 14 described in subsection 7. them to the corresponding cams and valve
52. Install the camshaft sprocket onto the 55. Carry out further installation in the lifters.
camshaft, ensuring that the sprocket lip is reverse order of removal. 60. Install the new injector tube O-rings, flat
aligned with the camshaft groove and tighten Engines with 16 valves side up, into the camshaft bearing housing.
the bolt to the specified torque. Push the seals into their places using the
56. Ensure that the crankshaft is still locked
53. Install the camshaft position sensor appropriate head (see illustration)
in the assembly position as described in
onto the camshaft housing and position it so 61. Install the drive chain onto the camshaft
subsection 3, preventing the valves from
that the gap between the sprocket and the sprockets as follows. so that the two dark
touching the pistons during installation.
end of the sensor is 1.2 mm for the old chain links line up with the timing marks on
sensor. If a new sensor is installed, then its 57. Lubricate with clean engine oil
each sprocket (see illustrations )
smaller end should only touch - 62. Squeeze the tensioner and insert a
small drill into the guides of the mechanism
to secure the tensioner in a compressed
state. Install the tension mechanism in its
place between the two camshafts (see
illustrations).
63. Lubricate the camshaft bearing
journals in the housing with clean engine oil
and install the camshafts, chain and
tensioner in their places. Make sure that the
dark chain links are still aligned with their
9.626 ...and install the tensioner in its place respective
9.62a Insert a small drill into the guides of between the two camshafts - engines with 16
the mechanism to fix the tensioner in a valves
compressed state...
ав • л 16 Дизельные двигатели. Процедуры ремонта на автомобиле
alignment marks are still aligned, then

9.63a Lubricate the camshaft bearing remove the chain tensioner. to release the multi-purpose grease.
journals and install the camshafts . chain and tension mechanism
9.65 Sequence of tightening the camshaft
tensioning mechanism in their places - 9.636 Make sure the dark chain links are still bearing cap fastening bolts - engines with 16
engines with 16 valves aligned with the corresponding marks on the valves
sprockets (marked with arrows) - 16 valve
engines
9.66 Screw the chain tensioner assembly

with two fastening bolts, then remove the drill
to press the tensioner mechanism - 16-valve 9.686 ...then insert a protective sleeve into
engines the center of each ring - engines with 16
9.68a Lubricate the inner protrusions of the valves injector tubes, then insert a protective
with markings on the stars (see illustrations} injector tube seals with universal grease... sleeve into the center of each ring (see
64. Lubricate the bearing journals in the illustrations) Insert the protective sleeves into
housings, then install the camshaft covers. the rings, leaving approximately 1 mm
marriage (see illustration)
Make sure they are installed correctly in outside
accordance with the marks made during 67. Temporarily install the timing belt
sprocket onto the intake camshaft and 69. Apply a small amount of sealant to the
removal
moderately tighten the mounting bolt. Rotate camshaft bearing housing mating surfaces in
65. Install the bearing housing mounting
the camshafts 40 times and ensure that the the areas indicated (see illustration) Take -
bolts and tighten them by hand. Working in
dark chain links and sprocket marks line up. care that the sealant does not get into the
the sequence shown, gradually tighten the
If there is no match, then repeat the complete lubrication hole of the chain tensioner 70.
bearing cover mounting bolts to the specified
torque (see illustration) installation procedure from point 61. When Install the camshaft bearing housing into the
66. Securely tighten the chain tensioner the required result is achieved, remove the cylinder head and hand-tighten the fasteners
assembly with the two mounting bolts. Make timing belt sprocket
sure the dark chain links and sprocket 68. Lubricate the inner lip of the seals with
9.69 Нанесите герметик на сопрягае-

мые поверхности корпуса подшипников
распредвала в указанных областях 9.72 Последовательность затяжки крепящих болтов/стоек кожуха подшипников
(стрелки) - двигатели с 16 клапанами распредвала -двигатели с 16клапанами
Дизельные двигатели. Процедуры ремонта на автомобиле гв • Т17
3. Drain the cooling system as described in gearbox housing and move the pipe away
Chapter 1B. To improve general access, from the cylinder head (see illustration )
remove the hood cover as described in There is no need to disconnect the pipes.
Chapter 11 16. Disconnect the connector, then
8 valve engines unscrew the bolt and remove the camshaft
position sensor from the cylinder head.
subsection 4 17. Unscrew 13 bolts and remove
5. Remove the timing belt as described in
subsection 7
6. Disconnect the intermediate exhaust -
pipe from the catalytic converter as described
1. 73 Remove the protective bushings from in Chapter 4B
the O-ring seals of the injector tubes -
Note: Do not apply any force to the flexible
engines with 16 valves, bolts and struts section of the exhaust pipe as it may be
71. Since the bearing housing alignment damaged.
pins are not provided, temporarily install the
7. Remove the glow plugs like opi
brake booster and align it with the camshaft.
At the same time, check that the edges of the
bearing housing and cylinder head are 10.13a Bolts (marked with arrows) of the rear
aligned in the camshaft oil seal groove area. fuel pump bracket ...
72. Working in the specified sequence .
Gradually tighten the mounting bolts and
bearing housing struts to the specified
tightening torque (see illustration) With the
bearing housing installed, remove the
temporarily installed vacuum booster.
73. Remove the protective bushings from
the ring seals of the injector tubes and make
sure that the tube seals are positioned 10.8 Bolts (marked with arrows) of the drive
correctly (see illustration) belt tensioning mechanism for auxiliary
74. Install a new preshaft seal. as devices - engines with valves
75. Install the upper inner housing of the
10.15 Cooling pipe bolts - engines with 8
timing belt and tighten securely with the
valves
fastening bolts.
76. Place the wires on the support post at
the rear of the upper inner casing, then install
and tighten the lock nut.
77. Install the sprocket onto the camshaft ,
making sure that the mounting lip of the
sprocket is aligned with the groove in the
camshaft.
78. Install the star fastening bolt and seal.
Tighten the bolt to the specified torque, -pressure fuel pump - engines with 8 valves
avoiding turning the camshaft as during the Sano in (lava 5C.
removal operation. 8. Unscrew the three bolts and remove the
Note: Removing and installing the cylinder accessory drive belt tensioner at the front of
head is a complex procedure and it is further the engine (see illustration)
assumed that the subsection has been read 9. Remove the catalytic converter as
in full before starting work . To make described in Chapter 4B.
installation easier, make notes regarding the 10. Remove the generator (see (Lava 5A)
location of each bracket. and the order of and its mounting bracket.
laying hoses and wires before removal. 11. Unscrew the connecting bolts and
remove the oil supply pipe from the engine
10 Cylinder head -
block and turbocharger. Remove the joint
removal and installation
seals
12. Release the clamp and disconnect the
Removal turbocharger oil return hose from the cylinder
1. Place the car on the handbrake , then lift block.
the front end and place it on axle supports 13. Loosen and unscrew the rear bolts and
(see “Lifting the car with a jack and installing the top bolt of the front bracket of the high
it on supports”). Remove the right front pressure fuel pump (see illustrations)
wheel, engine protection and front wheel 14. Remove the fuel injectors as described
arch protection. The engine protection is in Chapter 4B.
secured with several screws, and the wheel 15. Remove the mounting bolts of the
protection with several plastic rivets. Push cooling system outlet pipe (on the left side of
out the center pins, then remove the rivets the cylinder head). loosen the two bolts
2. Remove the battery (see Chapter 5A) securing the pipe bracket to the top of the
гв • па Дизельные двигатели.
Процедуры ремонта на
автомобиле
10.28а Выкрутите верхний задний 10.28b ...and the upper mounting bolt 10.29 Ослабьте два нижних болта
монтажный болт (отмечен стрелкой) (marked with an arrow) at the front - engines (отмечены стрелками) монтажного
топливного насоса высокого давления with 16 valves кронштейна насоса - двигатели с 16
securing the pipe bracket to the top of the - клапанами
cleaning, since their aluminum alloy is easily
camshaft bearing housing from the cylinder
gearbox housing, and move the pipe away damaged. Make sure that carbon particles
head together with the camshaft Remove the
from the cylinder head (see illustration - have not penetrated into the oil passages
5 small O-rings between the housing and the
10.15). No need to connect pipes and cooling system passages. This applies
cylinder head.
32. Make sure that everything that primarily to the lubrication system, since
18. Prepare eight small, clean plastic boxes
prevents the head from being removed is carbon particles can block the flow of oil to
and number them 1 to 8; or divide a large box
disconnected from it. Working in reverse engine components. Using tape and paper,
into eight compartments
tightening sequence (see Illustration 10.53). insulate the channels of the cooling and
19. Remove each rocker arm. Place the Unscrew the cylinder head mounting bolts.
rocker arms in the appropriate compartments lubrication system, as well as the holes for
in the box or in separate boxes ( see All engines the bolts in the cylinder block. Do not allow
illustration 9.10) 33. Remove the head from the cylinder carbon particles to get between the pistons
block and mounting pins by rocking it. The and liners, insulate these gaps with lubricant.
20. Store hydraulic cams in oil-filled
proprietary tool for this procedure consists of After cleaning the pistons, remove any
containers while they are removed from the
two metal rods with ends bent 90" (see grease and carbon particles from between
cylinder head. Remove the guides and place
illustration). Do not remove the head by the spaces using a small brush, then wipe off
them in appropriate containers for proper
levering between the mating surfaces as this the residue with a clean rag.
installation. The cams must be completely
will 37. Examine the mating surfaces of the
submerged in oil to prevent air from entering
cylinder block and cylinder head for cracks,
them .
chips and other damage. Minor defects can
21. Working in reverse tightening -
be carefully corrected with a file, but if the
sequence (see Illustration 10.53), unscrew
damage is significant, machining may be the
the cylinder head mounting bolts only replacement alternative. If warping of
Engines with 16 valves the mating surface is suspected. check the
22. Remove the camshafts, rocker arms curvature using a standard square. If
and hydraulic cams as described in necessary, refer to part C of this (face.
subsection 9
23. Unscrew the three bolts and remove
the accessory drive belt tensioner .
24. Remove the catalytic converter and
internal heat shield as described in Chapter
4B.
25. Remove the generator as described in
(section 5A. 10.33 Remove the cylinder head of the
26. Unscrew the bolt securing the dipstick firewood using two bent metal rods can
tube to the alternator mounting bracket. - damage them.
Unscrew the four bolts and remove the 34. Remove the head from the cylinder
mounting bracket. block and remove the gasket
27. Remove the fuel sprocket from the high 35. If necessary, remove the collectors (if
pressure pump as described in subsection 8 not already removed), according to (section
28. Remove the upper rear fuel injection 4B
pump mounting bolt and the upper front bolt
securing the fuel injection pump mounting
Preparing for installation
bracket to the cylinder head (see illustrations 36. The mating surfaces of the head and
). cylinder block must be absolutely clean
29. Loosen the two lower pump mounting before installing the head. Manufacturers
bracket bolts and move the pump away from recommend using a solvent for this purpose.
the cylinder head (see illustration). but you can achieve the desired result using
30. Remove the turbocharger as described a plastic or wooden scraper that removes
in Chapter 4B. gasket residues and carbon deposits. You
31. Remove the mounting bolts of the can also clean the piston heads. Be careful
not to chip or scratch the mating surfaces of
cooling system outlet pipe (on the left side of
the cylinder head), loosen the two bolts the cylinder head and cylinder block during
10.42 Measure the piston projections using a However, these measurements are less 52. Carefully insert the cylinder head bolts
dial gauge accurate and are therefore not into their holes (do not drop 1 ) and tighten
recommended them by hand
44. Select the largest difference in piston 53. Working in the sequence shown ,
38. Thoroughly clean the threads of the
projection to select a suitable cylinder head gradually tighten the cylinder head bolts to
holes for the head bolts in the cylinder block.
gasket according to the table below. The the first torque using a torque wrench and a
Check that the bolts move freely along their
number of marks on the gasket indicates its suitable socket (see illustration).
threads and that all grease and water
thickness (see illustration) 54. Having tightened all the bolts to the first
residues have been removed from each bolt
Piston projections 0.611 to 0.720 mm 0.721 tightening force, working again in the
hole.
to 0.770 mm 0.771 to 0.820 mm 0.821 to established sequence, tighten the bolts to the
Gasket selection 0.870 mm 0.871 to 0.977 mm set second tightening force. Finally, tighten
the bolts to the set angle of the third
39. Remove the locking pins to align the Checking the head bolts tightening. For tightening accuracy, it is
crankshaft and camshafts, then rotate the recommended to use an angle sensor at this
45. Carefully inspect the cylinder head
crankshaft until pistons 1 and 4 are at TDC stage.
bolts for damage to the threads or heads, or
(top dead center). Attach a dial indicator to
for signs of corrosion. If the bolts are in Note: There is no need to re-tighten the bolts
the block near the outer rear edge of the first
satisfactory condition, measure the length of after starting the engine.
piston, install its foot on the block and zero
each bolt from the back of the head to the 55. Carry out further installation in the
dial Move the foot to the running surface of
end of the rod. Bolts can be reused if their reverse order of removal. considering the
the first piston (10 0 mm from the outer rear
length does not exceed Количество following points
edge), then slowly rock the crankshaft
149 0 mm (see меток
around TDC, noting the highest indicator
illustration) 2 метки
reading. Record this reading as A
40. Repeat the test described in step 39 at Note: Given the high - 3 метки
1 метка
a distance of 10.0 mm from the outer leading loads to which the
4 метки ©©©©©
edge of the first piston. Record the reading
as B
cylinder head bolts are
subjected, it is
5 меток
®®®®®1
41. Add the values of A and B. Then divide
the result by 2 to get the average projection
recommended to replace them regardless of
their condition. ®®®®®h
value for the first piston. Installation ©©©©©
42. Repeat the procedure described in
46. Set the crankshaft to the TDC position
paragraphs 39-41 on the fourth piston, then
of the first and fourth cylinders, then turn 90°
turn the crankshaft 180' and check the
counterclockwise 10.53 Sequence of tightening the cylinder
second and third piston in the same way (see
illustration). Check that the difference in 47. Carefully clean the mating surfaces of head bolts
readings the cylinder head and block .
48. Make sure the locating pins are
installed, then install the correct gasket
correctly onto the cylinder block (see
illustration).
10.45 Measure the length of each bolt from
the back of the head to the end of the rod
49. If necessary, install the exhaust
manifold to the cylinder head as described in
Chapter 4B
50. Carefully place the head on the block
with the gasket and make sure that the
10.48 Make sure the gasket is seated gasket is seated correctly on the pins.
correctly on the mounting pins 51. Apply a fastening compound to the
threads and the backs of the heads of the
10.44 Marks (marked with arrows) to identify
bolts securing the head on the cylinder block.
the thickness of the indicator gasket on the Manufacturers recommend Mo1uko1e O
pistons did not exceed 0.07 mm PargF P1iz (can be purchased at the
43. In the absence of an indicator, - branded network): if the specified fastening
measurements can be made using a ruler compound is not available, a high-quality
and measuring probes or a vernier caliper. analogue will do.
гв • го Дизельные двигатели. Процедуры ремонта на автомобиле
a) Install the hydraulic cams , rocker arms Installation

and camshaft bearing housing (together
6. Remove all traces of insulation from the
with the camshaft) as described in
engine block/crankcase mating surfaces and
subsection 9.
pan, then wipe the pan and engine interior
c) Install the timing belt as described in
with a clean rag.
subsection 7.
7. Make sure the mating surface of the
c) When installing the cooling outlet pipe,
pallet is dry and clean, then apply a thin layer
install a new seal.
of insulating compound to it.
b) When installing the cylinder head, it would
8. Install the pan under the cylinder
be a good idea to replace the thermostat.
block/crankcase. Install and gradually tighten
f) When installing the camshaft position
the pan bolts/nuts evenly with the specified
sensor, adjust the air gap according to
tightening torque.
Chapter 4B.
9. Install exhaust system components Installation
1) Tighten all connections to the specified
according to Chapter 4B.
torque. 11. Remove traces of insulation and -
10. Lower the vehicle to the ground and
e) Fill the cooling system as described in completely clean the mating surfaces of the
refill the engine with oil as described in
Chapter 1 B. oil pump and cylinder block.
Chapter 1B.
b) The engine may run unstably for the first 12. Apply a 4 mm wide strip of silicone
few kilometers until its electronic system 12 Oil pump - insulation to the mating surface of the
processes the newly entered parameters. removal, inspection and installation cylinder block (see illustration) Make sure
insulation does not penetrate into any of the
11 Pallet - openings in the unit.
removal and installation 13. After installing the new seal, install the
Removal oil pump to the drive end of the crankshaft,
1.Remove the pan as described in section aligning the washers in the pump drive with
11. the washers in the crankshaft drive (see
Removal 2. Remove the crankshaft sprocket as illustrations ). Note that new oil pumps come
1. Drain the engine oil, then clean described in subsection 8. Remove the with the oil seal and protective sleeve
and install the drain plug, tightening it adjusting key from the crankshaft installed. Vtul-
securely. If the engine is approaching 3. Disconnect the connector, unscrew the
its service interval . When replacing the bolts and remove the camshaft position
oil and filter, it is recommended to also sensor located on the right side of the
replace the Filter. Then, after assembly, the cylinder block
engine can be filled with new oil. For more 4. Unscrew the three hex bolts and remove
detailed information, refer to (section 1B. the transmission tube from the oil
2. Put the car on the handbrake, then raise pump/block along with the dipstick
the front end and install axle supports (see tube for measuring the oil level (see
“Lifting the car with a jack and installing illustration). Remove the seal. When
supports”) Unscrew the bolts and remove the installing, use the new one.
engine protection. 5.Unscrew 8 bolts and remove the oil pump
3. According to Chapter 4B. disconnect the (see illustration)
intermediate exhaust pipe from the catalytic 12.5 Unscrew 8 bolts (marked with arrows)
converter. Remove the mounting bolts and Inspection and remove the oil pump
lower the front components of the system to 6. Unscrew and remove the screws
provide access to the pan. securing the cover to the oil pump (see
4. Gradually loosen and remove all illustration). Examine the rotors and pump
nuts/bolts securing the pan. Since the pallet housing for signs of wear and damage. If
bolts are different in length . After unscrewing these signs are present, the entire pump
each bolt, store it threaded into the must be replaced.
cardboard template in accordance with its
7. Remove the retaining ring and
installed location. This will help to avoid
incorrect installation of bolts when installing 12.4 Unscrew the three Allen key bolts -
the pallet. (marked with arrows) and remove the
5. Try to disengage the pan mating by transfer tube from the oil pump
hitting it with a wooden mallet, then remove
and remove it from under the car. If the pull out the cover, valve piston and spring,
mating does not work (which is very likely ), remembering the order in which they are
use a putty knife or similar, carefully inserting installed ( see illustrations) The condition of
it between the pan and the block. Slide the the safety valve spring can only be assessed
putty knife along the joint until the pan comes by comparing it with a new spring; if there is
loose. Once the pan is removed, take the any doubt about its condition, the spring must
opportunity to check the oil pump strainer for also be replaced
signs of clogging or cracking. If damage is 8. Install the relief valve piston and spring,
found, remove the pump as described in then secure them with the retaining ring.
subsection 12 and clean or replace the 9. Install the oil pump cap and tighten the
strainer. screws securely.
10. Before installation, the pump must be
filled with clean engine oil .
12.6 Выкрутите винты и снимите 12.7а Снимите стопорное кольцо... 12.7Ь ...крышку...
крышку насоса
12.7с ...пружину... 12.7с1 ...и поршень 12.12 Нанесите полосу изоляции на

поверхность блока цилиндров
It contacts the end of the crankshaft, 13 Oil cooler - in Chapter 1 B.
protecting the oil seal during installation. removal and installation 3. Drain the engine oil as described in step
14. Install and tighten the oil pump bolts to 1 B. or prepare for it to leak
the specified torque. 4. Unscrew the bolts and remove the oil -
15. Install the transfer tube onto the
pump/cylinder block with a new O-ring. Make Removal
sure the dipstick tube is installed correctly. 1. Put the car on the handbrake, then
16. Install the key and slide the sprocket raise the front and
onto the crankshaft. cooler. Remove the O-rings (see
illustrations)
Installation
5. Place new O-rings into the grooves in the
oil filter housing and install the radiator.
Tighten the bolts securely.
6. Replenish or prime the cooling and
lubrication systems as described in Chapter
1B or the Weekly Checks section.
12.136 ...aligning (marked with arrows ) the

12.13a Install a new seal ... pump drive washers , install axial supports
(see “Lifting the car with a jack and installing
17. Perform further installation in the
supports”) Unscrew the bolts and remove the
reverse order of removal.
engine protection.
2. The oil cooler is installed in front of the oil
filter housing. Drain the coolant as described
12.13с ...с шайбами (отмечены стрел- 13.4а Выкрутите (отмечены 13.4Ь ...и извлеките кольцевые уплот-
кой) коленчатого вала стрелками) болты, снимите масляный нители
радиатор...
Start the engine and check the oil cooler for

leaks.
14 Сальники - замена
Right crankshaft oil seal

1. Remove the crankshaft sprocket as
2. Measure and note the oil seal depth
3. Remove the oil seal from the housing
using a suitable hook. Or drill a hole in the oil
seal and... Using a self-tapping bolt and subsection 16 2. Remove the protective sleeve from the
pliers, remove the oil seal (see illustration) electrical connector (where it is provided by
4. Clean the oil seal housing and the seat Camshaft oil seal the design), then disconnect the wire from
on the crankshaft the sensor
5. The oil seal has a Teflon strip that 3. Unscrew the sensor from the cylinder
described in subsection 8. There is no need
should not be oily or dirty. The new oil seal block and remove its seal (see illustration )
to remove the timing belt completely, but
must be equipped with a protective sleeve remember that if the belt is contaminated Be prepared for an oil leak and, if the sensor
that contacts the crankshaft to prevent with oil, it should be replaced is removed from the engine, plug its hole in
damage to the oil seal lip. Install the seal with 16. On engines with 16 valves, remove the the cylinder block
the bushing (open side first) into the seat at upper and lower timing belt casings as
a previously known depth, using a suitable
Oil level sensor
described in subsection 6 4. The oil level sensor is located at the rear
pipe or socket.
17. Remove the oil seal from the housing of the cylinder block. Lift the front of the car
6. Remove the protective sleeve from the using a suitable hook. Or drill a hole in the oil
crank of that shaft with a jack and place it on supports (see
seal and... using a self-tapping bolt and “Lifting
7. Install the crankshaft sprocket as pliers. remove the oil seal (see illustration -
described in subsection 8 14.3)
Left oil seal 18. Clean the oil seal housing and the seat
on the camshaft
crankshaft 19. The seal has a Teflon strip that should
8. Remove the flywheel as described in not be oily or dirty. The new oil seal must be
subsection 16. equipped with a protective sleeve that
9. Measure and note the depth of the seal. contacts the crankshaft, preventing damage
10. Remove the seal from the casing using to the oil seal lip (see illustration) Install the
a suitable hook. Or drill a hole in the seal and, seal and bushing (open side first) into the
using a self-tapping bolt and pliers, remove casing to a predetermined depth, using a
the seal (see illustration 14.3) suitable tube or socket only on the outside of
11. Clean the oil seal housing and the seat the seal. 5. .3 Oil pressure sensor is located at the
on the crankshaft. 20. On engines with 16 valves, install the front of the cylinder block
12. The seal has a Teflon strip that must upper inner timing belt guard as described in
not be oily or dirty. The new seal must be subsection 6.
equipped with a protective sleeve that 21. Install the camshaft sprocket as
22. If necessary, install
14.19 The new oil seal is supplied with a
protective sleeve (marked with an arrow) ,
which contacts the crankshaft with a new
toothed drive belt as described in subsection
7.
15 Pressure sensor and oil level

indicator - §
13. 3 Drill a hole in the oil seal and, using
a self-tapping bolt and pliers, remove the
removal and installation d
oil seal
14. 12 The new oil seal comes with a Removal
protective sleeve (marked with an arrow) that
contacts the crankshaft
Oil pressure sensor
1. The oil pressure sensor is located on the
contacts the crankshaft, preventing damage front of the cylinder block next to the dipstick
to the oil seal lip (see illustration) Install the tube for measuring the level. Please note that
seal and bushing (open side first) into the on some models, access to the sensor may
casing to a pre-known depth using a suitable be improved if the vehicle is raised and
tube or socket. supported on axle stands (see “Lifting the
13. Remove the protective sleeve from the vehicle and installing a stand”). You twist the
crankshaft bolts and remove the engine protection. so
14. Install the flywheel as described in that the sensor can be accessed from below.
Дизельные двигатели. Процедуры ремонта на автомобиле гв • аз
3. Make alignment marks for the flywheel -

and crankshaft to facilitate installation.
Loosen and unscrew the bolts securing the
flywheel and remove the flywheel from the
end of the crankshaft. Be careful not to drop
the flywheel, it is heavy. Remove the flywheel
bolts; New ones should be used during
installation.
Inspection
4. Examine the flywheel for wear on the
17 Engine/gearbox mounts -
15.5 Oil level indicator (marked with an coupling surface, wear or fracture of the ring inspection and replacement
arrow) teeth. If the clutch surface is worn, it can be
repaired, but replacement is preferable.
car jack and installation of supports")
Consult your manufacturer's representative Inspection
Unscrew the bolts and remove from the 1. If improved access is
or engine repair specialist to determine
engine shield necessary, lift the front of the car -
whether machining is appropriate. If the ring
5. Disconnect the wire of the sensor gear is worn or damaged, it can be replaced and install it on axle supports (see
located between the drive shaft and the independently, but this work must be “Lifting the car with a jack and
cylinder block (see illustration) entrusted to an engine repair specialist. installing supports”) Unscrew the bolts and
6. Unscrew with a double-sided wrench remove the engine protection
and remove the sensor. Installation 2. Check the rubber cushion for splits and
5. Clean the mating surfaces of the flywheel separation from the metal ; If such damage is
Installation detected, replace the support.
and crankshaft. Remove any thread glue
Oil pressure sensor residue from the crankshaft bores using a -
3. Check that all support connectors are
7. replace if necessary . securely tightened; If possible, use a torque
suitable tap, if available.
8. Install the sensor with the seal and wrench to check .
If a tap is missing, cut two longitudinal
tighten securely 4. Using a large screwdriver or crowbar,
grooves along the threads of one of the old
9. Install the engine protection and lower - check for play in the mount, using the
flywheel bolts and use it to remove thread
the vehicle to the ground. screwdriver or crowbar as leverage. If
glue 6. If the threads of the new flywheel
possible, have a helper move the
Oil level sensor bolts are not coated with fastening
engine/transmission back and forth and side
10. Apply silicone sealant to the threads compound, coat them with thread glue (see
to side and observe the mount. Even new
and install the sensor onto the cylinder block. illustration).
components have some play. but excessive
tightened securely 7. If a removed flywheel is installed . align
the originally applied marks and install new wear is obvious. If excessive play is
11. Connect the wire to the pointer. detected, first check the support
fastening bolts.
12. Install the engine protection and lower connections, then replace worn components
8. Lock the flywheel using the method used
the vehicle to the ground. as described below.
16 Маховик - Replacement
снятие, осмотр и установка
Right support
Removal for removal and tighten the mounting bolts to under the engine. Jack up the engine.
the specified torque. 6. Loosen and unscrew the two bolts
1. Remove the gearbox as described in
9. Install the clutch assembly as described securing the support to the body and the
Chapter 7L. Using your brother-in-law,
in Chapter 6. Remove the flywheel locking three bolts securing the support bracket to
remove the clutch assembly as described in
tool and install the transmission as described the cylinder head bracket. Remove the
[chapter 6.
in Chapter 7A support assembly and the reinforcing plate
2. Lock the flywheel by inserting a 12 mm
(see illustrations)
diameter rod or drill into the hole in the 16.6 If the threads of new bolts are not
7. If necessary, unscrew the three bolts
protrusion of the flywheel housing and into coated with fastening compound, coat
and remove the bracket from the cylinder
the groove in the flywheel (see illustrations them...
head.
5.3a and 5.36). 8. Check all components for signs of wear
and damage and replace as necessary.
17.6Ь ...и болты (отмечены стрелка-

17.6а Выкрутите крепящие болты
ми), крепящие опору к кузову
(отмечены стрелками) правой опоры
9. When assembling, install the bracket on

Дизельные двигатели. Процедуры ремонта на автомобиле гв • аз
17.6с Снимите опору... 17.6Р ...и снимите усиливающую 17.14 Крепящие болты левой опоры
пластину двигателя (отмечены стрелками)
cylinder head, tightening the bolts to the 16. Carefully check all components for 23. Carefully check each component for
specified torque. signs of wear or damage and replace as signs of wear and damage. replace if
10. Install the support and bracket. Pull the necessary. necessary.
mounting bolts to the specified tightening 17. Install the support assembly onto the 24. Install the rear support and tighten both
torque. body and tighten its bolts to the specified bolts to the specified torque.
11. Remove the jack from under the engine torque. 25. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
. 18. Install the support on the gearbox
Left support bracket and tighten its mounting bolts to the
specified torque.
12. Remove the battery and its casing as
19. Remove the jack from under the
described in [Section 5A.
gearbox, then install the battery and its
casing as described in Chapter 5A.
under the transmission. Under the hood ,
remove the gearbox. Rear support
14. Loosen and unscrew the two bolts 20. Place the car on the handbrake , then
securing the support to the bracket on the lift the front of the car and place it on axle
gearbox ( see illustration) You twist the four supports (see “Lifting the car with a jack and
bolts that secure the support to the body and installing on supports”), 21. Unscrew the two
remove the support assembly. coupling bolts securing the rear support to 26. 21 Pinch bolts securing the rear engine
15. If necessary, unscrew the fastening the frame and gearbox bracket (see. mount (marked with arrows)
bolts and remove the bracket from the illustration ).
gearbox 22. Remove the lower support assembly
Chapter 2 Part C:
Engine removal and overhaul
Content
General information . . , ............. ....................... 1 Crankshaft - removal ............................................................... 10
Engine overhaul - general information 2 Cylinder block/crankcase - cleaning and inspection ................ 11
Engine/gearbox removal - methods and safety ........................... Piston/connecting rod assembly - inspection .... 12
....................................... 3 Crankshaft - inspection ........................................................... 13
Engine/gearbox - removal and installation 4 Main bearings and connecting rod lower head bearings -
Engine overhaul - removal sequence. 5 inspection ............................................................................... 14
Cylinder head - removal 6 Engine repair - assembly sequence .... 15
Cylinder head and valves - cleaning and inspection ................. 7 Piston rings - installation .16
Cylinder head - disassembly. 8 Crankshaft - installation ....................... 17
Piston/connecting rod assembly - removal. 9 Piston/connecting rod assembly - installation .................. 18
Engine - first start after major overhaul 19

Cylinder head
Maximum permissible deviation from the plane of the mating surface
All engines ......................................... .................. .............. ............. 0 05 mm
Height of new cylinder head:
Gasoline engines 11 and 14 liters .... ............................................ 111.20mm
1.6 liters ................................... ..................... ......................... .......... M/A
Diesel engines:
Engines with 8 valves 88 00 mm
Engines with 16 valves . ............. 124 0 mm
Minimum cylinder head height after machining: 11 and 14 liter petrol engines. . ..... .. .
111.00 mm
16 liters . ...... .............................................. M/A
Diesel engines 8 valve engines ....................................... 87.60 mm
Engines with 16 valves . M/A
Protrusion of the valve plate above the mating plane of the head - diesel engines. 1.25mm maximum
Valves
Valve disc diameter *
Gasoline engines. Input Выходные
1 I and 1 4 liters .. ............................................ 36.7 mm 294 М/А
16 liter _ M/A 30.3 мм
Diesel engines. . ................................ ......................... ....... .................. 32.8 mm
Valve stem diameter

Gasoline engines 1.1 and 14 liters ........................................................... from6.965ext.980mm
17 liters .................... ..................... M/A от 6.945 до 6 960
Diesel engines .. ....... ..... M/A М/А
М/А
Cylinder block
Bore diameter for engine cylinder block liner: Gasoline engines:
11 liter ............................................ ..... 72.00 mm (nominal)
14 liter ..................................................................................................... 7500 mm (nominal)
16 liters ..................... .............................................. 78 50 mm (nominal)
Diesel engines ............................................................................................... 73.70 mm (nominal)
Sleeve protrusion - 1 1 and 1 4 liter petrol engines. Standard. .... ....... .. • 0 03
to 010 mm
Permissible protrusion difference between sleeves 0.05 mm
Снятие и капитальный ремонт двигателя ас • з
Pistons
Piston diameter:
Gasoline engines:
1 1 liter. .. 71.950 мм (номинал)
2 4 liters. . 74.950 мм (номинал)
3 .6 liters. 78 455 мм (номинал)
Diesel engines
73.520 мм (номинал)
Note: Check with the manufacturer's representative or repair technician for
oversizing of the piston.
Crankshaft
Axial clearance
Gasoline engines ......................... ................ .. ........................................ от 0.07 до 0.27 мм
Diesel Engines ............................ ... .., ............................................... .. от 0.10 до 0.30 мм
Main bearing journal diameter:
Gasoline engines .......................... ... .................... .... .................. .. от 49.965 до 49 981 мм
Diesel engines ....... ............................................................................. . от 49.962 до 49 981 мм
Connecting rod lower end bearing journal diameter: Gasoline engines
от 44.975 до 44.991 мм
............................................ ....... ■ ■ •
от 44.975 до 44.991 мм
Diesel engines ........................ ... ........ ................
Piston rings
Gaps in ring locks:
Gasoline engines:
Upper compression ring .... . , . ..... from 0 20 to 0.45 mm
Second compression ring ....................................................................... from 0.30 to 0.50 mm
Oil scraper ring. ............................................................................... . from 0.30 to 0.50 mm
Diesel engines:
Top compression ring 0.20 ..........................................................................to 0.35 mm
Second compression ring. . . .............................. from 0.20 to 0.40 mm
Oil scraper ring. .. . ... ... from 0.80 to 1.00 mm
Gasoline engines
Refer to Chapter 2A specifications
Diesel engines
Refer to Chapter 2B specifications
1 General information beginning of parts A and B, all technical data sensor to the oil pressure indicator hole and
necessary for engine repair are given at the compare it with the set one. If the pressure is
beginning of this part of Chapter 2. extremely low, the main bearings, connecting
rod lower end bearings and/or the oil pump
2 Engine overhaul - are likely worn out.
This part of Chapter 2 includes removal of general information Loss of power, erratic engine operation,
the engine/transmission from the vehicle and knocking and grinding noises, excessive
procedures for overhauling the cylinder Sometimes it is not easy to determine the valve train noise and high fuel consumption
head, cylinder block/crankcase, and other feasibility of a major overhaul due to the also indicate the need for a major overhaul,
internal engine components. presence of many factors. especially if these factors occur
The information includes - That. that high mileage is not always an simultaneously. If full maintenance does not
recommendations regarding preparation for indicator of the need for major repairs, and solve the problem, then
procedures and the purchase of parts, as low mileage is not a reason not to carry it out major repairs are inevitable
well as a detailed description of the - probably the most important factor that Overhaul includes restoration of all internal
procedures for removing, inspecting, requires consideration . An engine that has components of the engine to the parameters
restoring and installing engine components had its oil and filter regularly changed and of a new one. During overhaul, pistons and
and assemblies. other necessary maintenance carried out piston rings are replaced, engine cylinders
After subsection 5, all instructions assume should operate reliably for many thousands are bored to repair dimensions. New main
that the engine has already been removed of kilometers. On the contrary, an abandoned bearings and connecting rod lower head
from the vehicle. Repair procedures without engine may require major repairs with very bearings are installed; if necessary about!
removing the engine and removal of external low mileage. The crankshaft is being ground due to wear
components necessary for engine overhaul Excessive oil consumption indicates that on its journals. The valves are also being
are described in parts A and B of this the piston rings, valve seals and/or valve restored, since at this stage their condition
Chapter, as well as in subsection 5. Do not guides require inspection. Ensure that oil usually leaves much to be desired. Pay
perform preliminary removal operations leaks do not cause you to suspect that rings attention to the condition of the oil pump
described in parts A or B. since they are not and/or guides are worn. Perform the during a major overhaul and, if necessary,
appropriate when the engine is removed from compression test described in Parts A or B of replace it. The result of the repair is your
the vehicle. this chapter (depending on engine type) to engine should be like new, capable of
In addition to the tightening torques for determine the likely cause of the problem. operating without fail for many kilometers
threaded connections, which are given at the Check the oil pressure by connecting the
Components of the cooling system that engine and transmission. When removing Subsection 2.
require close attention, such as hoses, the the engine/transmission from a vehicle, Removal
thermostat and the water pump, should be safety is of the utmost importance.
replaced during a major engine overhaul. To carry out major repairs, you will need 1. Remove the battery and its casing (see
The radiator should be checked for leaks and outside help. This is necessary not only for Chapter 5A)
blockages. In addition, during the repair, it safety reasons, but also because in some 2. Put the car on the handbrake, then raise
becomes possible to replace the oil pump cases one person cannot perform the the front end and install axle supports (see.
Before starting a major overhaul, read the operations carried out when removing the -Raising the car with a jack and installing
description of the entire procedure to engine / gearbox supports”) Remove both front wheels
become familiar with the requirements and Plan repairs in advance Before starting Unscrew the bolts and remove the engine
conditions for its implementation. Check the work, provide yourself with all the necessary protection
availability and suitability of spare parts and tools and equipment. Along with a lift, to 3. Remove the plastic engine cover . if
ensure that all necessary special tools and remove the engine/transmission you will provided for by the design
equipment are available. Most work can be need the following, a powerful hydraulic jack, 4. Remove the hood to improve access as
completed with ordinary tools, although a set of wrenches and sockets described at described in Chapter 11
precision measuring tools may be required to the end of this manual , blocks, as well as
inspect and determine whether certain sufficient number of rags and solvent to wipe
components should be replaced. up spilled oil, coolant and fuel If the lift is to
You will almost certainly need to call on be rented, arrange this in advance and carry
the services of repair shops or specialists, out all possible operations carried out without
especially if cylinder bores or crankshaft it. This will save money and time
resurfacing are required. In addition to Plan to not use the car for a while. A
machining, they will inspect the components workshop or specialist will be required to
and can advise on repairs and replacements. carry out work that cannot be done without
They may also be able to purchase new special equipment. Also take into account the
components. such as pistons, piston rings tight schedule of such work and consult
and bearing shells. It is recommended that before removing the engine, estimating the
you contact a reputable service center. time required to restore components that
Before deciding on the type of service require it
and repair list, wait until the engine is During engine/ transmission removal, it is
removed and all components (especially advisable to make notes on the location of all
the cylinder block/crankcase and brackets, electrical wires, grounding points,
crankshaft) are inspected. The condition of hoses and connectors. It is very effective to
these components is a determining factor take a series of photographs of the various
in the decision to repair an old engine or components before they are disconnected or
removed; the photographs will prove
purchase a new or rebuilt one, so do not
invaluable when assembling the
buy parts or repair other components until
engine/gearbox
the cylinder block and crankshaft have
Be extremely careful when removing and
been inspected. Typically, the main cost of
installing the engine/transmission. Careless
repair is a waste of time, so Do not install
actions can result in serious injury. Work
worn or non-standard spare parts
slowly and without haste, successfully
In conclusion, we would like to add that to
achieving work results.
ensure maximum service life and rare
Engines and transmissions are removed -
breakdowns in the future, the repaired
downwards from the engine compartment on
engine requires careful assembly and
all models described in this Manual.
cleanliness of work.
4 Engine/gearbox - removal and
3 Engine/gearbox removal - installation 5^
methods and safety
Note: Due to the many modifications to the

If you plan to remove the engine for a powertrains of these vehicles and the
major overhaul, take a few preliminary features that may be encountered on special
measures. order models, the following should be
Choosing a suitable work location is regarded as a comprehensive guide rather
extremely important. Space for work and a than a step-by-step instruction. If there are
place to store the vehicle will be required. If it differences or additional components that
is not possible to carry out repairs at a require disconnection or removal, make
service station or in a garage, then at least a notes to facilitate installation.
free area will be required Warning: It is important to strictly follow
Cleaning the engine compartment and
engine /transmission before beginning the
removal procedure will help keep your tools
A the rules
. safety when working with
components of the fuel system of diesel
clean and organized. engines, especially those under high
You will also need a lift for the vehicle. pressure . Before performing operations on
Make sure that the load capacity of the any part of the fuel system, refer to the
equipment exceeds the total weight of the specific information given in Chapter 4B,
ас • а Снятие и капитальный ремонт двигателя
5. Drain the coolant from the cooling Chapter 7A or 7B . Installation

system as described in Chapter 1A or 1B 24. On models with a manual transmission,
38. If the engine and gearbox have not
6. On models with a manual transmission , unscrew the bolt from the clutch slave
been separated, carry out the operations
drain the transmission oil as described in cylinder and release the fluid supply hose
described below, starting from point 45
Chapter 7A. Install the drain and filler plugs from the clamp. Tie the cylinder to one side
39. Treat the grooves of the input shaft of
and tighten them to the specified torque. without disconnecting the hose (see Glavub)
the box with heat-resistant grease ( -
7. If the engine will be removed, drain the Place a rubber band on the cylinder to
manufacturers recommend Mo1ukote 882
engine oil and remove the oil filter as prevent the piston from extending
rShv, which can be purchased at the branded
described in Chapter 1A or 18 Clean and 25. Remove the front subframe as
network) Do not apply too much grease, as
install the drain plug, tightening it securely described in Chapter 10
in this case there is a possibility of it getting
8. Push out the center pins and use a lever 26. Using a hoist, hang the engine and
on the friction disc
to remove the mass rivets, then remove the gearbox by the lugs on the cylinder head.
40. Make sure the locating pins are
wheel arch protections on both sides 27. Remove the right and left engine
positioned correctly on the engine or
9. Remove the accessory drive belt as mounts and brackets as described in Chapter
transmission.
described in Chapter 1A or 1B. 2A or 2B.
41. Carefully align the box with the engine
10. Remove the electric radiator fan as 28. Finally check and make sure that all
in accordance with the location of the
described in Chapter 3 electrical wiring, hoses and brackets that
mounting pins. On models with a manual
11. Refer to Chapter 8 and remove both prevent the removal of units are
transmission, make sure that the weight of
front drive shafts disconnected.
the box is not concentrated on the input shaft
12. On diesel engines with an intermediate 29. Carefully remove the
as it engages the friction disc. On models
heat exchanger, remove the air ducts leading engine/transmission from the engine
with an automatic
from the turbocharger and intake manifold to compartment , being careful not to damage
the intermediate heat exchanger nearby components. It would be a good idea
13. Remove the air cleaner housing and to lower the units onto a low dolly so that they
pipe system as described in Chapter 4A or can be removed from under the vehicle.
4B Disconnect the lift from the
14. Disconnect the upper and lower radiator engine/transmission.
pipes, heater hoses in the engine
compartment bulkhead, expansion tank
Separation
30. Having removed the engine/gearbox,
hose, etc. where provided by design,
install the units on suitable blocks in the
transmission fluid cooler hoses.
workplace (or, if this is not possible, on a
15. On models with air conditioning,
clean floor)
referring to Chapter 3, unscrew the bolt
securing the compressor to the engine. Do
remove the lower part of the flywheel housing
not disconnect the refrigerant lines. Secure
(where provided by design) from the gearbox
or tie the compressor to one side
16. Remove exhaust system components 32. Let go and run away." । tightening bolts
as described in Chapter 4A or 4B and remove the starter from the gearbox
17. Disconnect all connectors connected 33. Disconnect all connectors on the -
to the transmission and mark their original transmission, then move the center wiring
positions. If necessary , mark the harness to the side
disconnected connectors. 34. On automatic transmission models,
locate the inspection hole at the lower rear of
18. Disconnect the wiring harness
the cylinder block, then rotate the crankshaft
connectors from the fuse box. On diesel
engines, disconnect the three connectors by the pulley bolt until one of the three
transformer mounting nuts is accessible
from the glow plug control unit (located under
through the hole. Remove the accessible
the left wheel arch guard). Disconnect the
transformer bolt, then rotate the crankshaft
connector from the gear housing on the right
as necessary and remove the remaining two
side of the engine (where provided by
bolts
design).
35. Make sure the engine and gearbox are
19. Disconnect the engine ground from the
fuse box, under the left wheel arch and on the stable. then loosen and remove the
remaining bolts securing the transmission
left of the chassis 20. Disconnect the hose
housing to the engine. Mark the original
from the vacuum pump on the left of the
position of each bolt (and corresponding
cylinder head (diesel engines) or the pipe
bracket) during removal for reference during
from the vacuum brake booster (petrol
installation.
engines) - see Chapter 9
36. Carefully remove the transmission from
21. Disconnect the accelerator cable -
the engine, making sure that the weight of the
(where provided by design) as described in
transmission is not concentrated on the input
Chapter 4A
shaft as it engages the friction plate (manual
22. Disconnect the forward and reverse
models) or that the torque converter has not
fuel supply hoses and plug the hoses and
their connections to prevent dirt from slipped off the input shaft (automatic
models).
entering. Release the fuel supply hoses from
37. If the cylinder block/crankcase and/or
the clamps on the engine and move them to
transmission housing mounting pins are
side 23. Disconnect the selector cable(s) -
loose, remove them for safekeeping.
from the transmission as described in
Снятие и капитальный ремонт двигателя 2С • 5
Use this box to ensure that the transformer stand. 1. Remove the cylinder head as described
posts are correctly aligned with the 3. If you are going to replace the engine in parts A or B of this chapter (depending on
corresponding holes in the drive plate with a rebuilt one, first remove all design).
42. Install the bolts securing the box attachments and then install them on the new 2. If not already removed, remove the
housing to the engine, making sure that all engine (just as if you were doing a major intake and exhaust manifolds per Chapter 4A
brackets are correctly positioned. and tighten overhaul yourself). Attachments include: or 4B. Remove any remaining brackets or
the bolts securely. a) Mounting brackets for auxiliary covers.
43. tighten its mounting bolts securely . components (oil filter, starter, alternator, 3. Remove the camshaft(s), hydraulic cams
44. Install the lower part of the flywheel power steering pump, etc.) and valves (depending on design) as
housing (where provided by design ) onto the b) Thermostat and casing (Chapter 3) described in parts A or B of this Chapter.
transmission and securely tighten the c) Dipstick tube for measuring oil level. 4. On gasoline engines, remove the spark
mounting bolts 45. Connect the lift to the lugs b) All electrical connectors and sensors. plugs if they are not already removed as
on the engine. With outside help, install the f) Intake and exhaust manifolds - where described in Chapter 1A.
units in the engine compartment, being provided by design (Chapter 4A or 4B). 5. On diesel models, remove the spark
careful not to damage nearby components. () Coil and spark plugs - where provided by plugs if they are not already removed as
46. Install the right and left engine mounts design (Chapter 5B and 1A). described in Chapter 5C.
and their brackets as described in Chapter e) Flywheel/faceplate (Part A or B of this 6. On all models, using a valve spring
2A or 2B. Chapter). puller, compress each valve spring and
Note: When removing external components remove the valve retainers. Open the puller
47. Disconnect the lift from the engine
from the engine, pay close attention to any and remove the springs and their washers
48. Install the subframe as described in
parts that may be useful or important during (see illustrations)
Chapter 10
installation. Mark the original positions of 7. If, with the puller screwed in, it is not -
49. The remainder of the installation is
gaskets, seals, washers, studs, seals, bolts, possible to remove the washers and valve
carried out in the reverse order of removal,
and other small items. cotters. Gently tap the washer directly with a
with reference to the relevant chapters and
4. If you are replacing the engine with a - suitable tool or light hammer. This is a wasp
taking into account the following points
refurbished one. which consists of the
a) Make sure that the electrical wiring is
cylinder block/crankcase, crankshaft, pistons
correctly laid and secured with all
and connecting rods assemblies, then also
clamps and clamps; All connectors must
remove the cylinder head, pan, oil pump and
be connected correctly and securely.
timing belt.
b) Make sure that all coolant hoses are
5. If you are planning a major overhaul, the
properly connected and their clamps are
engine can be dismantled and its internal
securely tightened.
components removed in the order given
c) Fill the engine and manual transmission
below, in accordance with sections A or B of
with the correct amount of appropriate
this Chapter, unless otherwise
fluid as described in Chapters 1A or 1B
recommended.
and 7A. On models with an automatic
а) Intake and exhaust manifolds - where the
transmission, check the level and, if
design provides (Chapter 4A or 4B).
necessary , add transmission fluid as
б) Toothed belt, sprockets and tensioner(s).
described in Chapter 1B .
c) Cylinder block head.
c) Refill the cooling system as described in
b) Flywheel/faceplate.
Chapter 1A or 1B.
e) Pallet.
f) Bleed the fuel system as described in
1) Oil pump.
Chapter 4A (gasoline engines) or
e) Pistons/connecting rods assemblies
Chapter 4B (diesel engines).
(Subsection I). Note: On diesel engines,
1) Activate the electronic engine control
remove the crankshaft before removing
system as follows. Start the engine and
the pistons.
warm it up to normal temperature . Perform
1t) Crankshaft (Subsection 10).
a mileage test during which the following
procedure should be performed. Engage 6. Before starting removal and repair
third gear and increase the crankshaft operations, make sure that you are provided
speed to 1000 rpm . After that, increase it with all the necessary tools. Refer to the
to 3500 rpm . “Tools and work equipment” section for
detailed information.
5 Major renovation
engine - 6 Cylinder head - removal
removal sequence
1. Working with and removing the engine is Note: New and repaired cylinder heads can
much easier if it is mounted on a portable be purchased in the company’s network and
stand. This stand can be rented. Before in repair shops. Be aware that some special
installing the engine on the stand, remove the tools required for dismantling and inspection,
flywheel/faceplate. so that the stand bolts as well as new spare parts, may not be
can be screwed into the edge of the cylinder available immediately. Therefore, it may be
block/crankcase more practical and economical for the home
2. If a stand is not available, it is possible to mechanic to purchase a refurbished head
remove the engine from an engine secured rather than having to remove, inspect and
to a workplace or floor. Be careful not to push repair the original one.
or drop the engine when operating without a
2С • ЛО Снятие и капитальный ремонт двигателя
6. ба Сжимая клапанную пружину, 6.6Ь ...затем извлеките сухари клапана 6.6с Извлеките шайбу пружины.
используйте съемник пружин... и разожмите съемник пружин
surface of the head ( see illustration) If the

6.64 ...then remove the valve spring and surface is uneven, determine whether it can
6.8а Извлеките клапан..
loosen the washers. be machined, taking into account the degree
8. Remove the valve from the combustion of unevenness and the possible reduction in
chamber , then, using pliers, carefully and valve train components, followed by a head height
remove the valve stem seal from the top of detailed inspection, will allow you to decide 6. Inspect the valve seats in each -
the guide. Remove the spring seat where how much valve maintenance work should combustion chamber. If they appear
designed, remembering that on diesel be performed during an engine overhaul. excessively licked, chipped or burned,
engines the valve stem seal is integrated with Note: If the engine has been severely - replace or machine them.
the spring seat (see illustrations ) overheated, it is better to assume that the
9. It is important to store each valve with its cylinder head is warped. Check the head
retainers, washers, spring and spring seat. carefully for signs of warping.
During storage, the sequence of valve
placement should also be observed if they Cleaning
are not worn out before the replacement 2. Clean the mating surface of the cylinder
stage. If the valves are to be used again, head from gasket residues.
store each valve and its components in a 3. Clean the combustion chambers and -
separate, labeled plastic bag or similar small cylinder head passages from traces of
container (see illustration) Note that the first carbon deposits, then wash the entire
one is the one closest to the gearbox cylinder head with kerosene or other suitable
(flywheel). solvent. 7.5 Check the flatness of the mating surface
4. Clean any traces of carbon deposits from of the head
the valve, then use a brush attachment on an
electric drill to remove deposits of carbon
deposits from the valve plate and stem
Inspection
Note: Make sure. that all of the following
inspection procedures have been completed
before making a decision
6.8b ...then, using pliers, remove the valve
stem seal. On diesel engines, the spring seat
10. Store each valve and its components in is an integral part with the oil seal; there is no
a separate polyethylene bag marked need to contact a service station. Make a list
ku/faceplate) valve in the engine cylinder of all the components that require close
head. attention.
Cylinder head
7 Block head '
5. Carefully check the cylinder head for
cylinders and valves - cracks, signs of refrigerant leakage and other
cleaning and inspection
damage. If cracks are found, the cylinder
head should be replaced. Using a ruler and a
1. A thorough cleaning of the cylinder head feeler gauge, check the flatness of the mating
7.10 Measure the diameter of the valve stem press the lapping tool onto the plate (see - 8 Cylinder head - disassembly
using a micrometer illustration) Making half turns, lap the valve
If they are only slightly licked off, this can be plate to its seat, sometimes lifting the plate
corrected by using an appropriate valve from the seat to redistribute the lapping 1. Working on the first valve, remove the
grinding compound as described below. compound. By placing a light spring under
spring washers, then soak the new valve
7. Check the valve guides for wear by the valve plate , this procedure can be stem seal in fresh engine oil. Install the oil
inserting the appropriate valve and rocking it simplified. seal into the valve guide and firmly press the
from side to side. Only a small amount of play 14. When grinding valves, use a coarse oil seal onto the guide. using a suitable head
is acceptable. If there is excessive play, abrasive compound to bring the surfaces of (see illustrations) Note that on diesel engines
remove the valve. Measure the diameter of the valve and seat to a matte shine, then the oil seal is an integral part of the lower
the valve stem (see below) and replace the wipe off the residue and continue grinding
valve if it is worn. If the valve stem is not with a fine abrasive compound. When the
worn, then the valve guide is worn and annular surfaces of the valve and seat along
should be replaced. Replacement of guide the entire length acquire a gray matte shine,
bushings should preferably be carried out by the grinding operation can be considered
a specialist. have the necessary tools to do complete. Do not grind the valves too much,
this. If the valve stem diameter is not as this will force the valve plate deeper into
specified, consult the manufacturer or a the cylinder head.
qualified mechanic for advice. 15. After grinding the valves, thoroughly -
8. When replacing guide bushings, valve wash off all traces of the grinding compound
seats should be machined only after the using a suitable
guide bushings have been installed. 8.1b. . .and firmly press the oil seal onto the
guide using a suitable socket
Valves
9. Examine each valve head for signs of
pitting, burnout, cracks, and general wear.
Check the valve stem for signs of wear and
binding. Rotate the valve and check for signs
of bending. Inspect the ends of the valve
stems for pitting or excessive wear. Replace
valves that show signs of wear or damage.
10. If the condition of the valve is -
satisfactory at this stage, measure the 8.1a Install the oil seal into the valve
diameter of the valve stem at several points bushing guide...
using a micrometer (see illustration). A
1. 17 Check the squareness of the valve
significant difference in the results indicates
valve stem wear. If wear is present, replace springs
the valve. solvent before assembling the block head.
11. If the valves are in satisfactory - Valve Components
condition, install them in the appropriate 16. Check the springs for signs of damage
seats and ensure that the fit is gas-tight. If the and wear. The manufacturer does not
saddle is slightly worn, apply provide a specified spring extension length,
7.13 Lapping the valves so the only way to assess spring wear is to
compare it with a new one.
17. Place each spring on a flat surface and
for lapping valves. If wear is significant, do
check its squareness (see illustration ). If
not use a coarse abrasive compound. In this
even just one spring is damaged, has lost its
case, have a specialist inspect the cylinder
shape or elasticity , replace the complete set
head and valves and determine whether
of springs. When carrying out major repairs,
machining or valve and seat replacement
it is advisable to replace the valve springs,
(where possible) is necessary.
regardless of their condition.
12. The valves are grinded in as follows.
18. Replace valve stem seals with new
Place the cylinder head with its mating
ones, regardless of their condition.
surface up on the stand.
13. Apply appropriate valve lapping
compound to the surface of the seat and
Secure the clamps to the 3. Using quick-drying paint, mark each

«еоЕты valve stem with a small connecting rod and connecting rod bearing
ЭКСПЕРТА amount of lubricant while cap with its corresponding cylinder number;
the spring remover is if the engine has been dismantled before,
compressed. take into account the previously made marks
(see illustration). Mark those. that the first
spring sockets cylinder is located on the gearbox (flywheel)
2. Lubricate the first valve stem and insert side of the cylinder block.
it into the guide (see illustration ) 4. Turn the crankshaft. setting the first and
fourth pistons to the BDC (bottom dead
3. Install the spring onto its washer and
center) position. On diesel engines, remove
then install the spring plate.
the main bearing journal as described in 11. Lubricate the valve stem and insert it
4. Compress the valve spring and install the subsection 10 of this chapter. into the guide in part A or B of this chapter
cotters into the groove of the valve stem. 5. Remove the existing nuts or bolts from (depending on design).
Uncompress the spring and repeat the the bearing cap of the lower end of the 2. Remove the pistons and connecting rods
procedure on the remaining valves. Make connecting rod of the first cylinder. Remove
as described in subsection 9. If the pistons
sure. that each valve is located in its the cover and remove the lower bearing shell
and connecting rods are not intended to be
appropriate place. When installing new (see illustration ) If the inserts are to be
subjected to any processing, then there is no
valves, they correspond to the grinding reused, wrap the insert and cap together in
points. need to remove the cylinder head or push the
plastic wrap.
pistons out of the engine cylinder bores. The
5. With the valves in place, secure the - 6. To avoid scratching the crankshaft
pistons just need to be pushed far enough
cylinder head and, using a hammer and an journals , wrap insulating tape around the
into the cylinders so that the connecting rods
inserted block, tap the end of each valve threads of the crankpin bolts (see illustration)
7. Use a hammer to push the piston into the are separated from the crankshaft journals.
stem to disperse the components.
cylinder and remove it through the top of the Note: On diesel engines, the main bearing
6. Install camshafts, hydraulic cams and
journal must be removed before removing
rocker arms (where provided by design) as cylinder block. Remove the bearing shell
from the connecting rod and wrap it in film the piston/connecting rod.
described in part A or B of this Chapter.
along with the connecting rod for 3. Check the crankshaft play as described
7. Install the remaining components ,
safekeeping.
working in reverse order of disassembly and in subsection 13, then perform the following
8. Lightly tighten the connecting rod end operations
installing new seals and gaskets where
cap to the connecting rod with nuts and bolts
necessary.
to help maintain the correct order of the 1.1 and 1.4 liter petrol engines
8. The cylinder head can then be installed components. 4. Remove the bolts (Mb) from the outside
as described in Part A or B of this Chapter. 9. the piston group components from the of the cylinder block securing the main
fourth cylinder in the same way. bearing yokes to the block base. Mark the
9. Piston/connecting rod assembly 10. Rotate the crankshaft 180". to set the seating depth of the right and left crankshaft
- second and third pistons to bottom dead oil seals in the cylinder block/main bearing
withdrawal center and remove them in the same way. yokes.
5. Working in a diagonal sequence , evenly
10 Crankshaft - and gradually loosen the ten M11 bolts
1. Remove the cylinder head, pan and oil withdrawal securing the main bearing yokes and
pump as described in Part A or B of this unscrew them at the same time. After
chapter. unscrewing, remove the bolts from the yokes.
2. there is a wear groove at the top of the
1. Remove the crankshaft sprocket and oil 6. After removing the fastening bolts,
cylinder bore , it. It should probably be remove the
pump as described
removed with a scraper or file to avoid
damaging the piston during removal. Such a
groove indicates excessive wear on the
engine cylinder bore.
9.6 To avoid scratching the crankshaft

journals , wrap insulating tape around the
threads of the crankpin bolts
9.3 Identification Marks on the Connecting
Rod and Bearing Cap (Shown for Cylinder
No. 3) 9.5 Remove the connecting rod bearing
shell and cap
gel from under the base of the cylinder block bolts from the yokes nozzles (one on each piston) inside the
Remove the lower bearing shells and wrap Note: Using a lever, remove the two caps cylinder block (see illustration)
them in film, noting the order in which they from the end of the yokes to provide access 4. Remove all gasket marks from the
are located in the yokes. If the two mounting to the two main bearing bolts (see block/crankcase mating surface and main
pins have a loose fit, remove them and store illustration). bearing yokes/caps (where designed)
them with the yokes for safekeeping. without damaging the mating surfaces.
17. After removing the securing bolts,
7. Remove the crankshaft and its oil seals 5. Remove the lubrication system plugs
carefully remove the main bearing yokes
Remove the oil pump chain from the (where provided by design). The plugs are
from under the base of the cylinder block.
crankshaft If necessary, remove the sprocket usually very tight and will likely need to be
Remove the lower bearing shells and wrap
and key drilled out and the holes re-tapped. When
them in film in accordance with their original
8. Remove the upper bearing shells and assembling, install new plugs
location in the yokes. If the two mounting pins
store them with the corresponding lower 6. If any of the yokes are extremely dirty,
are loose, remove them and store them with
bearing shells. Also remove the two seals steam clean all yokes.
the yokes for safekeeping. Remove the
located on the sides of the second main 7. After the yokes are cleaned, clean the
connecting rod lower head bolts and remove
bearing from the cylinder block holes and lines of the lubrication system
the pistons/rods as described in Section 9.
8.6- liter petrol engines 18. Remove the crankshaft and remove -
again. Rinse the internal cavities with warm
9. Unscrew the bolts and remove the left water until clean water streams appear. After
both oil seals.
and right crankshaft oil seal housings from the mating surfaces are completely dry, apply
19. Remove the upper main bearing shells
the sides of the cylinder block, remembering a light layer of grease to them to prevent
and store them with the corresponding lower
the correct starting positions of the corrosion. On cast iron blocks, also lubricate
bearing shells. Also remove the two seals
installation pins. If the locating pins are loose- cylinder bores If you have access to
located on the sides of the second main
fitting, remove them and store them with the compressed air, use it to speed up the drying
bearing from the cylinder block
housings for safekeeping. process and to purge holes and lines in the
10. Remove the oil pump chain and lubrication system.
crankshaft sprocket. Remove the key and 11 Cylinder block/crankcase -
cleaning and inspection Warning: Protect your eyes with special
store with the sprocket for safekeeping.
11. The main bearing caps must be
numbered from 1 to 5, starting from the side
A equipment when working with
compressed air.
8. If the yokes are not very dirty, clean them
where the transmission (flywheel/plate) is Cleaning with hot water and a stiff brush. Spend plenty
installed. Or mark them accordingly with a
1 . Remove all external components and of time, but do quality work. Regardless of
marker or paint
disconnect the connectors from the unit. For the cleaning method, ensure that all oil
12. Unscrew the fastening bolts and complete cleaning, remove the unit plugs system openings and lines and all
remove the main bearing caps. Remove the (see illustration) Drill in the components are completely clean.
lower main bearing shells and wrap them in
film with the corresponding caps.
13. Carefully remove the crankshaft, being
careful not to dislodge the upper main
bearing shells.
14. Remove the upper main bearing shells
from the cylinder block and wrap them in film
with appropriate caps for safekeeping.
Remove the seal rings next to the second
main bearing
11.3 Piston oil jets (marked with arrows)

inside the cylinder block
10.16 On diesel engines, remove the two

caps from the flywheel side of the yokes to
provide access to the main bearing bolts
and store them with the bearing cap
Diesel engines
11.1 Plugs (marked with arrows) of the
15. Remove the smaller bolts from the
base of the cylinder block, put a small hole
outside of the cylinder block securing the
in the plug and screw in a self-tapping
main bearing yokes to the block base. Mark
screw. Remove the plugs by grabbing the
the depth of the left crankshaft oil seal in the
screw with pliers or using a hammer.
cylinder block/main bearing yokes 16.
2. On aluminum blocks of gasoline engines
Working in a diagonal sequence . Evenly and
with a wet liner (11 and 14 liters), remove the
gradually loosen the ten M11 bolts securing
liners (see point 18).
the main bearing yokes and unscrew them at
3. Where provided by the design, unscrew
the same time. After unscrewing, remove the
the fastening bolts and remove the piston oil
well dried. On cast iron blocks, treat the are in good condition and are not worn to the the top surface of the cylinder block and
engine cylinder bores as described above to limit, and the play between the piston and match it with the installed one. Also check
prevent corrosion. cylinder is within the established limits, only that the maximum difference between the
9. Thoroughly clean all threaded holes to the piston rings should be replaced. In this protrusions of any sleeves does not exceed
maintain specified assembly torque When case, the surface of the cylinders should be the permissible limit.
cleaning, tap each threaded hole with a sanded to ensure proper installation of the Note: When installing new liners, it is
suitable tap to remove rust, corrosion, new rings and a better seal in the cylinder. permissible to rearrange them to bring the
sealant residue or deposits and repair This work can be performed by a specialist differences in protrusions from adjacent
damaged threads (see illustration) If for a small fee. sleeves within acceptable limits. Remember
possible, blow out the holes with compressed 17. At the time of writing this Manual , it was to install each piston with its corresponding
air to remove any dirt resulting from this not known whether oversize pistons are liner. If liner protrusions are not within
operation. available for all models. Consult your acceptable limits, consult a specialist before
10. Apply appropriate sealant to the specialist or manufacturer representatives proceeding with engine rebuilding.
lubrication system plugs and insert them into regarding the availability of repair pistons. If 22. After checking the liner lugs, remove
the holes in the block. Tighten them securely. there are repair-size pistons (from the them from the block and carefully install the
Also apply appropriate sealant to the new manufacturer or another source), then it is O-rings on them. Lubricate the outer surfaces
block base plugs and insert them into the possible to bore the cylinders and install of the liners with engine oil to facilitate
holes on the block using a tube or socket pistons of larger diameter. If there are no installation.
11. Where the design provides for it. clean repair-size pistons, then if the cylinders are 23. Insert the liners into the cylinder block,
the threads of the piston oil nozzle bolts, treat worn out, the cylinder block will most likely being careful not to damage the O-rings . and
them with a suitable compound have to be replaced. press them in by hand as far as possible.
(manufacturers recommend Costke Aluminum cylinder block Until the end
Egepetaps1t). Install the oil injectors on the
cylinder block and tighten the mounting bolts 18. Remove the liner locks (where required
to the specified torque. by design), then use a wooden mallet to
12. If the engine is not intended to be move the liners inside the cylinder block.
reassembled immediately, cover it with After displacing the liners, turn the cylinder
plastic wrap to keep it clean and treat all block/crankcase over and remove the liners
mating surfaces and bores for engine through the top of the block. After removing
cylinders as described above to prevent the liners, place adhesive tape on the left
(from the transmission connection side) to
corrosion
each of them and write the corresponding
Inspection cylinder number on it. Per-
Cast iron cylinder block 11.18b ...and remove (marked with an arrow
13. Visually inspect the yoke for cracks and ) the O-ring
signs of corrosion. Pay attention to possible
broken threads in the holes. If there are signs
of internal refrigerant leakage, contact a
cylinder block/crankcase repair specialist to
check using special equipment. If defects are
found, repair them, if possible, or replace the
unit.
11 Foreheads On aluminum blocks, -

remove the sleeves.
The first cylinder is located on the flywheel
side of the cylinder block. Remove the O-
rings from the sleeves ( see illustrations)
19. Check each cylinder liner for wear.
Check for a groove on the top of the liners,
indicating excessive liner wear.
11.9 To clean, tap each threaded hole in 20. Provide the sleeves to a specialist to
the cylinder block with a suitable tap. measure their diameters and decide on their
replacement. In this case, the specialist will
14. Check each cylinder bore of the gel
be able to inform you about the availability of
engine for any binding or grooves. Check for
repair pistons/liners
grooves on the top of the cylinders, indicating
21. Before installing the liners, check their
excessive cylinder wear.
protrusions as follows. Completely clean the
15. Accurate measurement of engine
mating surfaces of the liners and cylinder
cylinder cylinder bores requires special
block. Install the liners into the cylinder block,
equipment and experience. We recommend
making sure that each liner is installed
that you contact a specialist for
correctly; When installing old liners, make
measurements, from whom you can also
purchase the appropriate pistons if it is sure they are installed in their original
necessary to bore the cylinders during locations. After installing all four liners, using
repairs. a dial indicator (or a ruler and feeler gauge),
16. If the engine cylinder bores and pistons measure the protrusion of each liner above
Снятие и капитальный ремонт двигателя 2С • 11
Place each sleeve in its place, lightly are excessively worn, and the cylinder block such as cracks around the upper and lower
pressing on it with a hammer and a block. should not be subjected to cylinder boring, connecting rod bearings. Also check the
When installing old sleeves, make sure that then old pistons can be installed. With normal connecting rod for bending or twisting.
the installation and location are correct in wear, signs of wear on the working surface of Damage to the connecting rod is unlikely
accordance with the marks made during the piston and slight play of the upper ring in unless the engine is seized or excessively
removal. its groove are acceptable. When overheated. A thorough check of the
24. Clean and lubricate all protruding parts reassembling the engine, new rings are connecting rod assembly can only be carried
of the liner to prevent corrosion. Where - always installed. out by a specialist, if he has special
provided by the design, install liner locks 7. Carefully check the presence of friction equipment
12 Piston/connecting rod around the skirt, in the area of the piston bore 12. The connecting rod lower end cap nuts
assembly - and between the ring grooves should be replaced each time they are
inspection 8. Look for grooves and signs of binding on exposed. Although manufacturers do not
the piston skirt, holes in the piston crown, and insist on replacing the bolts when doing this,
■ burnt areas on the edge of the running it is recommended that the nuts and bolts be
1. Before inspection, clean the surface. If the skirt is grooved, the engine replaced together.
piston /connecting rod assembly and may have suffered from overheating and/or 13. On gasoline engines, the piston pins
remove the installed piston rings. improper combustion causing excessively are stationary in the bearing of the upper end
2. Gently loosen the rings on the pistons. high operating temperatures. Check the of the connecting rod. Therefore, replacing
Use two or three old feeler gauges to remove cooling and lubrication system thoroughly. the piston and/or connecting rod should be
any rings stuck in the grooves (see Burn marks on the piston surfaces indicate entrusted to an engine repair specialist with
illustration ) Be careful not to scratch the blow-by Holes in the piston crown, burnt a special tool for removing and installing
pistons with the edges of the rings. The rings areas along the edge of the piston running piston pins.
are fragile and can burst if pressed too hard. surface indicate that improper combustion 14. On diesel engines, the piston pins have
Work with protected hands and fingers, has occurred (pre-ignition, detonation or pre- a floating fit and are secured by two retaining
taking into account the sharpness of the ignition) If any of the above problems are rings. On these engines, the pistons and
rings. Note that the third ring has a lock present, the causes should be identified and connecting rods can be separated as follows.
Remove the rings through the top of the corrected . Otherwise the damage will occur 15. Using a small flathead screwdriver,
piston Store each set of rings with the again. Causes. probably lies in a faulty remove the retaining rings and pull out the
corresponding piston if the rings are to be injector or a malfunction of the engine piston pin (see illustration) It is also possible
reused management system to remove the finger manually. Keep the
3. Remove traces of carbon deposits from 9. Dotted piston corrosion indicates coolant piston and connecting rod together to ensure
the surface of the pistons. Once most of the leakage into the combustion chamber and/or proper assembly. Remove the retaining
carbon has been removed, sand the pistons crankcase. In this case, the cause must also rings. When reassembling, use new rings 16.
with a wire brush or fine sandpaper. be eliminated . or the problem may persist in Check the piston pin and connecting rod
4. Remove carbon deposits from the piston the rebuilt engine upper end bearing for signs of damage or
grooves using an old ring. To do this, break 10. It is not possible to replace pistons, wear. Wear can be eliminated by replacing
the ring in half (be careful not to scratch your regardless of rings and liners, on engines - the pin and bushing (if the design allows) or
fingers, as piston rings are sharp). Be careful with aluminum cylinder blocks (see replacing the connecting rod. Replacement
not to catch metal particles or scratch the subsection 11). If you have a cast iron block, of the bushing should be entrusted to a
piston when removing carbon deposits from pistons can be purchased from a branded specialist due to the need for pressing
the ring grooves. network or from a repair specialist. equipment and the required accuracy of the
5. After removing carbon deposits, clean I. Carefully check each connecting rod for bushing fit.
the piston/connecting rod assembly with signs of damage. 17. The connecting rods themselves do not
kerosene or another suitable solvent and dry
need to be replaced, provided that there is no
completely. Make sure that the oil holes in
jamming or other mechanical failure. Visually
the piston grooves are not clogged.
check the straightness of the connecting rods
6. If the pistons and cylinder bores on the
block are not damaged or worn
11. 15a Remove the retaining ring using a

lever ...
12.15b ...and extend the piston pin

12.2 Remove the piston rings using a feeler
gauge
гс • пг Снятие и капитальный ремонт двигателя
and, if deviations are found, provide them to

a specialist for a more detailed check
18. Research all components and purchase
the required new ones for parts. New pistons
will be equipped with piston pins and snap
rings. Retaining rings can also be purchased
separately
19. Make sure the piston and connecting
rod are in the correct position, then lubricate
the piston pin with clean engine oil (see
illustration ). Push it into the piston and crankshaft all the way towards the engine
connecting rod head. Check that the piston flywheel, then use a feeler gauge to measure
13.3 ...или измерительного щупа
rotates freely on the connecting rod, then the gap between the second connecting rod
secure the pin with two new snap rings. install repair size liners. If oversize bearings
crank and the thrust ring (see illustration)
Check the correct location of the retaining are missing and the crankshaft is excessively
rings in the piston recess Inspection worn, it should be replaced. Consult the
manufacturer or a repair technician regarding
4. Clean the crankshaft with kerosene or
13. Crankshaft - other suitable solvent and dry it, preferably
the suitability of the components.
inspection 0^
with compressed air if possible. Make sure 14 Main bearings and
the crankshaft oil holes are cleaned with a
bore cleaner and are not clogged with dirt.
connecting rod lower head
Checking the backlash bearings - inspection
Warning: Protect your eyes with special
1. The crankshaft play should be checked equipment when working with compressed
while the crankshaft is still installed in the 1. Even if the main and end bearings are to
air.
cylinder block/crankcase and can rotate be replaced, the old bearings should be
5. Check the main bearing journals and retained for examination as they can provide
freely (see subsection 10).
connecting rod lower end bearing journals for valuable information about the condition of
2. The play is checked using a dial indicator
uneven wear, scoring, pitting, and damage. the engine. Bearing shells are graded by
mounted to the edge of the crankshaft .
6. Wear of the bearings of the lower head of thickness with a corresponding color mark
Extend the crankshaft all the way to one side,
the connecting rod is accompanied by a applied to the shell
then zero the indicator sensor Extend the
metallic clanging sound when the engine is 2. The bearing may fail due to lack of
crankshaft all the way
running (especially noticeable at low speeds) lubrication, dirt or other foreign matter. motor
and a slight decrease in oil pressure. overload
7. Wear of the main bearings is -
accompanied by noticeable engine vibration
and grinding noise. Over time, there is an
increase in the crankshaft speed and a
decrease in oil pressure.
8. Check the bearing journal
for binding by slightly rotating the
bearing surface with your finger .
Any galling (which is accompanied by
obvious bearing wear) indicates that the
crankshaft requires regrinding (where
possible) or replacement.
9. Check the oil seal contact surfaces on
each side of the crankshaft for wear and
If the oil seals have left deep indentations in
the surface of the crankshaft, consult a repair
specialist about the advisability of rebuilding
3. .19 Piston/connecting rod assembly on or replacing the crankshaft
a diesel engine 10. Have the crankshaft checked by a
specialist to assess journal wear. If there is
1 connecting rod
excessive wear, a specialist should advise
2 Connecting rod lower head bearings
you regarding regrinding the crankshaft and
3 Connecting rod lower head bolts
replacing the bearing shells
4 Piston rings
11. If the crankshaft has been forged.
5 Piston pins
Check for scoring around the lubrication
6 Retaining rings
holes (the holes are usually chamfered, so
1. .2 Checking the crankshaft play is there should be no scoring if the regrinding is
carried out using a dial indicator... done well). Remove burrs with a fine file or
in the other direction and check the play scraper and completely clean the lubrication
Compare the measurement result with the holes as described above 12. At the time of
set value and make a decision regarding writing this manual, it was not clear whether
replacing the thrust rings (see illustration) manufacturers produce oversize bearing
3. If you do not have a dial indicator, you shells. On some engines, if the crankshaft
can use a measuring probe. Pull the journals have not been previously ground, it
is possible to rebuild the crankshaft and
Снятие и капитальный ремонт двигателя гс • 13
or corrosion (see illustration} Regardless of passages are usually the result of clogged oil pistons/connecting rods must be installed
the type of bearing failure. the cause must be holes in the bearing shell. also lead to lack of before installing the crankshaft .
corrected (where possible) before lubrication and bearing failure. When a b) Piston/connecting rod assembly (See
reassembling the engine to prevent this fault bearing suffers from a lack of lubrication, the subsection 18).
from occurring again. running surface material is worn or grooved. c) Oil pump.
3. To inspect the liners, remove them from Temperatures can rise to levels at which the c!) Pallet.
the cylinder block/crankcase, connecting bearing running surface steel may take on a e) Flywheel/faceplate.
rods, and connecting rod lower end bearing blue tint from overheating. () Cylinder block header.
housings. Lay them out on a clean surface in 6. Operating modes affect the service life of e) Fuel pump and mounting bracket - diesel
the same order they were installed in the the bearing. Full throttle opening , low engines (Chapter 4B).
engine. This will allow you to correlate crankshaft speed and high engine loads b) Pulley(s) and sprockets of the toothed belt
bearing wear with wear on the corresponding create high loads in the bearings, squeezing tensioning mechanism with water and a
crankshaft journal. Do not touch the working out the lubricating oil film. These loads cause toothed belt drive.
surfaces of the bearing shells with your wear of the bearings and the formation of I) Engine attachments.
fingers when checking them. The mirror cracks on the bearing surface (fatigue 3. At this stage, all components must be
surface can be easily scratched. failure). As a result, the bearing material will absolutely clean and dry, with all defects
4. Dirt and other foreign particles enter the become brittle and may fail. corrected. The components must be laid (or
engine in a variety of ways . The engine can 7. Movement over short distances leads to placed in separate containers) on an
become contaminated during the assembly corrosion in the bearings. because sufficient absolutely clean work surface
process, or dirt can pass through the filters temperature does not develop to remove
and crankcase ventilation system. The dirt compressed water and corrosive gases. 16 Piston rings - installation ' - d®
then moves into the oil and from there into These products accumulate in the engine oil,
the bearings. Metal shavings from machining forming acid and sludge. Since the oil comes
and normal wear are often present. into direct contact with the bearings, the acid 1. Before installing new piston rings, check
Abrasives sometimes remain on engine exposes the bearing material to corrosion the cut size as follows.
components after repairs, especially if the 8. Incorrect installation of bearings at the 2. Distribute the pistons/rod assemblies -
components are incompletely and improperly time of assembly also leads to bearing and new piston ring sets so that the ring sets
cleaned. Regardless of the source, these malfunctions. Tightly seated bearings have are installed on the same pistons and
foreign particles are often incorporated into insufficient operating clearance, which leads cylinders on which the ring cut size was
the soft bearing material and are easily to lack of lubrication. Dirt or foreign particles measured
identified. Large particles are not embedded in the back of the bearing lead to
incorporated into the bearing, but scratch or chips and pits on the bearing, which lead to
break the bearing and journal. This cause is malfunctions.
best prevented by completely cleaning all 9. Do not touch the working surfaces of the
components and maintaining impeccable bearing shells with your fingers during
cleanliness during assembly and assembly and disassembly; there is a risk of
disassembly. Frequent regular replacement scratching the mirror surface or applying
of the engine oil and filter is also goyazi particles to it
recommended 10. As stated above, bearing shells should
be replaced as a matter of course during
FAULTS. FAULTS,
CAUSED BY IMPROPER* FATIGUE INSTALLATION engine repairs; it would be a false economy
to do otherwise.
15 Engine repair -
assembly sequence
chipped shiny (polished) samples
1. Before starting assembly, make sure you

have the necessary spare parts and tools.
Read the description of the entire procedure
to familiarize yourself with the complex work
and assess the availability of the
bearing material
PRESENCE OF TONE components required for it . Along with the
EXCESSIVE WEAR ON NECKLINE
usual tools and materials, you will need a
compound for fixing threads. You will also
need a tube of liquid insulator for mating
surfaces without gasket. It is recommended
abraded™ edge wear to use proprietary materials from the
manufacturer, specially designed for these
14.2 Typical bearing faults purposes; the corresponding names of
5. Lack or lack of lubrication has many materials are indicated in the text of each
interrelated causes. Excessively high oil subsection as needed.
temperature (which reduces oil density), 2. To save time and avoid complications,
excess oil (which leads to increased pressure engine assembly should be done in the
on the bearing surface), and oil leakage (due following sequence, referring to parts A or B
to excessive bearing play, oil pump wear, or of this chapter, unless otherwise indicated;
high crankshaft speed) contribute to a) Crankshaft (See subsection
improper bearing lubrication. Clogged oil 17) . Note: On diesel engines, the
the rings can be installed on the pistons. grooves of each thrust ring are clear (not
8. Install the oil scraper ring seal (where against the cylinder block).
provided by design), then install the oil - 4. Clean the backs of the bearing shells and
scraper ring. bearing seats in the cylinder block/crankcase
9. The top and bottom rings have different and in the yokes/bearing caps
profiles, the top ring is symmetrical and the 5. Install the bearing shells in their place,
bottom is tapered. Install the bottom ring, making sure that the key on each shell is
making sure the “TOP” marking is on its top aligned with the mark on the cylinder
surface, then install the top ring <see Fig . block/crankcase or on the yokes/bearing
illustrations), Set the cuts of the oil scraper cap. Do not touch the working surfaces of the
ring and the two compression rings at an bearing shells with your fingers. Note that the
16.5 Measure the gaps of the cut pores of the angle of 120“ relative to each other second and fourth bearings are fitted with
screw rings using a feeler gauge Note: Follow the instructions provided with upper and lower grooved bushings (see
new piston ring sets - different manufacturers illustration)
3. Insert the top ring into the first cylinder may specify different procedures. Do not mix 6. Lubricate each liner in the cylinder
and push it down with the force of the top of up the upper and lower compression rings as block/crankcase generously with clean
the piston. This will ensure that the plane of they have different profiles. engine oil.
the ring is perpendicular to the cylinder walls. 7. Install the key, then the oil pump drive
Place the ring at the base of the cylinder, at 17 Crankshaft - sprocket and the chain onto the sprocket
the bottom dead center of the piston. Note installation (see illustration) Set the crankshaft to the top
that the top and bottom ring are different. The dead center position for the second and third
bottom ring can be identifiable by the cylinders; The first and fourth cylinders will be
chamfer, on petrol engines it also has a step at bottom dead center. In this position, the
on the bottom surface. On diesel engines the
Selection of bearing shells
first piston is ready for installation. Check the
top ring has a groove on the outer edge 1. Have the crankshaft inspected and crankshaft play as described in subsection
4. Measure the cut gap using a feeler - measured by a repair technician. He will be 13
gauge able to resurface/recondition the crankshaft
8. Thoroughly degrease the mating
5. Repeat the procedure, moving the ring to and provide main bearing and connecting rod surfaces of the cylinder block/crankcase and
the position of the top dead center of the end bearing shells. main bearing yokes. Apply a thin layer of
piston {see. illustration) and compare the Installing the crankshaft insulation to the mating surface of the
results obtained with the established values. Note: When installing the crankshaft, new cylinder block/crankcase and main bearing
If the values do not correspond to the main bearing cap/sump pan bolts must be yokes, then spread the insulation layer to a
established ones, check the correct selection installed. film state (see illustration)
of rings relative to the engine model and 9. Make sure the locating pins are in place
2. Make sure that the oil injectors are
cylinder diameter and apply clean engine oil to the lower
installed with bearings in the cylinder block
6. Repeat the procedure for each ring in bearing shells. Install the main bearing yokes
(where so designed).
the first cylinder, then check the rings in the to the cylinder block, making sure the lower
remaining cylinders. Remember to maintain 1.1 and 1.4 liter petrol engines bearings are installed correctly
the rings, pistons and cylinders in the 3. the upper thrust half-rings on the sides of
correct installation order. the second main bearing with a small amount
7. After checking the ring cut clearances, of grease ; Make sure that the lubrication
10. 9a Piston ring installation diagram -

gasoline engines
1 Oil scraper ring
2 Bottom compression ring
3 Upper compression ring
4 6.9b Piston ring installation diagram -
diesel engines
1 Upper compression ring
2 Bottom compression ring
3 Oil scraper ring
1. .5 Upper and lower bearings with a groove
are installed on the second and fourth main
bearing - 1.1 and 1.4 liter petrol engines
1. .8 Apply a thin layer of insulation to the 18. 10 Tighten the ten main bearing bolts to
2. .7 Install the sprocket, then the oil pump mating surface of the cylinder block - 1.1 and the specified torque - 1.1 and 1.4 liter petrol
drive chain - 1.1 and 1.4 liter petrol engines 1.4 liter gasoline engines engine bearings in the main bearing cap with
clean engine oil. Make sure the mounting
10. Install the yoke securing bolts and 15. Install the flywheel as described in Part
tabs on the liners are aligned with the
tighten them by hand. Working in a spiral A of this chapter.
corresponding notches in the covers.
pattern from the center bolts to the outer 16. Install the cylinder head (if removed) as
21. Install the main bearing cap . making
ones, tighten the bolts evenly and gradually described in Part A of this chapter. Also
sure that the installation is correct (the
to the torque wrench mark set for the first install the crankshaft sprocket and timing belt
recesses corresponding to the protrusions of
tightening. After tightening to the torque of (see part A).
the liners on the block and the cover should
the first tightening, working in the same 1.6 liter petrol engines
be on the same side).
sequence, using head and extension arm,
22. Apply a small amount of engine oil to
tighten the bolts to the specified second 17. Apply a small amount of grease to the
upper thrust rings on the sides of the second the threads and backs of the bearing cap bolt
tightening angle. To achieve accuracy during
main bearing , making sure that the heads, then install the bolts. Working in a
this procedure, it is recommended to use an
lubrication grooves of each thrust ring are spiral pattern from the center bolts to the
angle measuring sensor (see illustration) If
outer ones, tighten the bolts evenly and
there is no sensor, apply marks with white clear (not against the cylinder block).
18. Install the earbuds in their places as gradually to the torque wrench mark set for
paint before and after additional tightening.
described in steps 4 and 5 (see illustration: the first tightening. After tightening to the first
Marks can be used to check that the bolts are
When installing new bearings , make sure torque, using the same sequence, use the
sufficiently tightened
socket and extension arm to tighten the bolts
11. Install the smaller bolts that secure the that their protective lubricant is washed off
with solvent. Wipe the bearings and to the specified angle for the second
yoke to the base of the cylinder block and
connecting rods dry with a cloth. Lubricate tightening. To achieve accuracy during this
tighten them to the specified torque. Check
the bearing shells in the cylinder procedure, it is recommended to use a
that the crankshaft rotates smoothly and
freely. block/crankcase and cover generously with sensor that measures an angle. If there is no
sensor, apply white paint to marks before and
12. Install the piston/connecting rod clean engine oil.
19. Set the crankshaft to the top dead after the turn. The marks can be used to
assemblies to the crankshaft. as described in
subsection 18 center position for the second and third check that bolts are tight enough.
23. Check the crankshaft for smooth and
13. After making sure the chain is installed cylinder; The first and fourth cylinders will be
at bottom dead center. In this position, the free rotation.
correctly on the sprocket, install the oil pump
first piston is ready for installation. Check the 24. Install the piston/connecting rod
and oil pan as described in Part A of this
chapter. crankshaft play as described in subsection assemblies to the crankshaft as described in
section 18
14. Install two new crankshaft oil seals as 13. 25. Install the key, then the oil pump drive
described in Part A of this chapter. 20. Lubricate the lower bearing bearings
sprocket and chain onto the sprocket.
26. Make sure that the mating surfaces of
the right oil seal housing (on the timing belt
side) and the cylinder block are clean and
dry. Note the original seal depth, then use a
large flathead screwdriver to pry the seal out
of the housing.
27. Treat the seal housing mating surface
with appropriate insulation and ensure that
the locating pins are present. Install the
housing on the crankshaft at
17.17 Install the thrust half-rings on the sides 17. /8 Make sure that the key (marked with
of the second main bearing, leaving the an arrow) and the groove match when
lubrication channels free - 1.6-liter gasoline installing the liners - 1.6-liter gasoline
engines engines
cylinder block. Securely tighten the housing described in subsection) 8. gasoline engines) are installed in the cylinder
mounting bolts 37. Thoroughly degrease the mating block/crankcase as described in subsection
28. Follow steps 26 and 27 and install left surfaces of the cylinder block and 11, and that the yokes/bearing caps are
oil seal housing ( flywheel /faceplate side ) yokes/casing of the crankshaft bearing installed on the crankshaft, with the
29. Install new crankshaft seals as cover. Apply a thin layer of sealant to the exception of diesel engines where the
described in Part A of this chapter. mating surface of the bearing cover casing. crankshaft is installed after installing the
30. Make sure the chain is correctly Manufacturers recommend using 1_ocYe pistons (see subsection 17).
positioned on the drive sprocket and install Au)O1P1 ÔI^ for this purpose. Use two 2. Clean the backs of the bearing shells and
the oil pump and pan as described in Part A locating pins (available online) inserted into the bearing seats in the connecting rod and
of this chapter. the yoke body to ensure proper installation cap
31. Install the flywheel/faceplate as during assembly.
described in Part A of this chapter. 38. Lubricate the lower bearing shells with Gasoline engines
32. Install the cylinder head (if it was clean engine oil, then install the bearing cap 3. Place the earbuds in their places .
removed) and the crankshaft sprocket with housing, making sure the shells are not making sure that the key of each liner is
the timing belt, as described in the relevant misaligned and that the locating pins are aligned with the grooves in the connecting
subsections of Part A of this chapter. properly aligned. Remove the locating pins rod and cover. Do not touch the working
Diesel engines from the yoke housing 39. Install the large surfaces of the bearing liners with your
and small crankshaft bearing cap/yoke fingers (see illustration)
33. Clean the backs of the bearing shells in
housing mounting bolts and tighten until they
the cylinder block/crankcase and in the main
bearing yokes. When installing new
come into contact with the housing. Note that All engines
new large bolts ( M1 1) must be used. 4. Lubricate the cylinder bores, pistons and
bearings, make sure that their protective
40. Tighten the main bearing yoke bolts to piston rings, then arrange the
lubricant is washed off with solvent. Wipe the
the specified first tightening torque in the piston/connecting rod assemblies in the
bearings dry with a cloth.
specified sequence {see illustration) correct installation order.
34. Place the earbuds in their places .
41. Loosen (second tightening) the large 5. Start with the first piston rod /piston
making sure that the key on each shell is
yoke bolts by half a turn (180”), then tighten assembly. Make sure the piston rings are still
aligned with the mark on the cylinder
them in the prescribed sequence with the separated as described in Section 16, then
block/crankcase or on the yokes/bearing
force of the third tightening and tighten them compress them using a piston ring puller.
cap. Do not touch the running surfaces of the
to the specified angle of the fourth tightening. 6. Insert the piston/connecting rod
bearing shells with your fingers. Note that the
Apply sealant to the two new main bearing assembly through the top of the first
upper shells have a groove on the running
yoke bolt caps and install them onto the two cylinder/liner, making sure the piston is
surface, and the lower ones have a normal
bolts on the flywheel side. positioned correctly as follows.
running surface. It is important that the lower
42. Finally, tighten the small bearing yoke
halves of the liners are located in the center a) On gasoline engines, the arrow on the
bolts to the second torque.
of the yokes. This can be achieved by using piston head should point towards the
43. After installing the bearing cover casing
a special template placed on the yoke and timing belt of the engine drive
, check the freedom of rotation of the
inserting the liners through the grooves of the b) On diesel engines, the “YZT” mark or
crankshaft
device (see illustration) arrow on the head
44. Install the oil pump under the bottom.
as described in Part B of this chapter 45.
Install a new left crank seal and flywheel as
described in Part B of this chapter
46. Install the cylinder head . crankshaft
sprocket and timing belt, if removed as
described in part B of this chapter
35. 34 Installing main bearing shells - diesel

engines
1 Bearing shell
2 Main bearing yoke 17.40 Sequence of tightening the main
3 Special device CHtoep Io 0194-0 bearing yoke bolts - diesel engines
4 Dowel pins
35. Liberally lubricate each bearing in the 18 Piston/stepper assembly -
cylinder block, then install the crankshaft.
36. Place the thrust half rings on the sides
installation '55
of the second main bearing and press them
against the bearing journal until their edges
are horizontal. Make sure that the lubrication Note: When installing, use new connecting
grooves on the thrust half-rings are free (not rod lower head nuts/bolts.
against the cylinder block). Then install the 1. The following procedure assumes . that
pistons and connecting rods assemblies as the cylinder liners (aluminum block of
Снятие и капитальный ремонт двигателя гс • 17
18.7 Drive the piston into the cylinder using a and tools and rags are not forgotten in the
hammer handle with clean engine oil. engine compartment.
12. Pull the connecting rods with pistons 2. Turn the ignition on and immediately -
down the cylinders and onto the crankshaft begin turning the starter (on diesel engines,
journals. Install the connecting rod lower do not allow the spark plugs to get hot) until
head covers, which can only be installed in the oil pressure warning light goes out.
one position (see point 11) and insert new 3. Bleed the fuel system as described in
bolts. Chapter 4A (petrol engines) or Chapter 4B
13. Tighten the bolts to the first tightening (diesel engines), then start the engine, noting
torque, then loosen (second tightening) half that this may take a little longer than usual
a turn (180°). then tighten them with the force due to the effects on fuel system components
2. .3 Make sure that the bearing shell key of the third tightening and tighten them to the .
(marked with an arrow) is aligned with the indicated angle of the fourth tightening 4. While the engine is idling , check for fuel,
groove 14. Next, install the main bearing shells and oil, and coolant leaks. An unusual engine
yoke as described in subsection 17. odor may be present due to residual oil and
The piston should point towards the -
grease burning on heating components.
timing belt of the engine drive. All engines 5. Let the engine idle until then. until hot
7. Once the piston is correctly installed , 15. After tightening the bearing cap lock coolant can be felt through the upper radiator
push it into the cylinder until the piston head nuts, rotate the crankshaft. Check that it turns
hose. Then turn off the engine.
and the top of the cylinder/casting are level freely, some stiffness is acceptable if new
6. Allow the engine to cool and recheck the
using a block or hammer handle (see components have been installed, but there
oil and coolant levels as described in Weekly
illustration) should be no jerking or binding.
Inspections . If necessary, top up the oil
16. Install the firewood cylinder head and
Gasoline engines and/or coolant.
oil pump as described in Part A or B of this
8. Make sure the bearing shells are still chapter (depending on design) 7. When installing new pistons, rings or
installed correctly. Liberally lubricate the crankshaft bearings, the engine should be
crank pin and both bearing shells. Taking treated as new and run-in for the first 800 km.
care not to scratch the cylinder/liner, pull the Do not open the throttle fully during this
piston/rod assembly down onto the crank pin. period and do not overload the engine at low
Install the connecting rod lower end bearing speeds in any gear. After break-in, it is
cap and new nuts, first tightening them by recommended to change the oil and filter.
hand (see illustration) Note that the marked
surfaces must be aligned (which means the
bearing shell keys are adjacent to each
other).
9. Tighten the bearing cap lock nuts evenly
and gradually to the specified torque.
Diesel engines
10. On diesel engines, the connecting rod
is made in one piece, and the bearing cap of
the lower end of the connecting rod can be
separated. This ensures that the cap can be
installed in only one position and with 17. 11 Installing the bearing shell of the
maximum rigidity. Therefore, there are no lower connecting rod head - diesel engines
installation marks on the bearing shells. 1 Special device I0194-R
11. To install the lower head bearing shells 2 Bearing shell
exactly in the center of the connecting rod
and cap, use two special tools from the
manufacturer. They are two semicircles
installed on both sides of the connecting
rod/cap and ensure that the liner is
positioned exactly in the center (see
illustration) Install the bearings into the
connecting rods and connecting rod lower
end caps and lubricate them generously
3 8.8 Install the connecting rod lower end

bearing caps, making sure they are installed
correctly, and tighten the new nuts
19 Engine - first start after major

overhaul
1. After installing the engine in the car,

check the oil and coolant levels . Finally
check that all components are reconnected.
gs "10 For notes
3•л
Chapter 3
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
Subsection number
Content Heating/ventilation system components - removal and installation
Subsection number ................................................................................................. 10
General information and precautions 1 Air conditioning system - general information and precautions 11
Cooling system hoses - disconnection and replacement 2 Cooling Air conditioning system components -
system expansion tank - removal and installation 3 removal and installation. ... ................... .... . . .12
Radiator - removal, inspection and installation 4 Accessory drive belt - inspection and replacement. see
Thermostat - removal, inspection and installation 5 Chapter 1A or 1B
Cooling system electric fan - removal and installation ............. 6 Checking the coolant level
Electrical sensors of the cooling system - general information, fluid see -Weekly checks-
Cooling system - drain see Chapter 1A or 1B
removal and installation 7
Cooling system - filling see Chapter 1A or 1B
Cooling system pump - removal and installation 8 Heating and Cooling system - flushing see Chapter 1A or 1B
ventilation system - general information 9

Are common
Maximum system pressure 14 бар
Thermostat
Opening temperature
Diesel models
Gasoline models 83*С
89"С
N/m
Cooling pump
10
1 General information and forward Flow air is increased if necessary by Warning: Do not allow antifreeze to
measures an electric fan. Reaching the base of the
radiator, the liquid cools and the cycle A come into contact with your skin or
painted parts of the vehicle. If
resumes. refrigerant comes into contact with these
On models with an automatic - surfaces, immediately flush the affected
transmission, coolant also circulates through area with sufficient water. Never leave
general information the transmission fluid cooler mounted on the antifreeze in an open container or in a
transmission. On models equipped with an puddle on the driveway or garage floor.
The closed-type cooling system consists of
engine oil cooler, coolant also circulates Children and pets can
a pump driven by a toothed belt, an
through the oil cooler
aluminum/plastic radiator, an expansion
The operation of the electric fan is
tank, and an electric fan. thermostat. heater
controlled by the engine control unit.
radiator and connecting hoses, pipes and
taps Precautionary measures
The system operates as follows: Cold
coolant from the base of the radiator flows Warning: Do not attempt to remove the
through the lower pipe to the pump, and then
circulates through the cylinder block and
A expansion tank cap or work on the
cooling system components while the
main lines. After cooling the engine cylinders, engine is still warm, as there is a high risk of
combustion surfaces and valve seats, the scalding . If it is necessary to remove the cap
coolant flows to the back of the thermostat, before the radiator and cooling jacket have
which is initially closed. The coolant passes completely cooled (even though this is not
through the heater and returns through the recommended), you must first reduce the
cylinder block to the pump pressure in the system. Cover the lid with a
Until the engine is warmed up, the coolant thick layer of cloth and, being careful not to
circulates only through the cylinder block , scald yourself, slowly turn until a sizzling
cylinder head and heater. When the coolant sound appears. When the hissing stops,
reaches a certain temperature, the indicating a drop in pressure, slowly unscrew
thermostat opens and passes the coolant and remove the expansion tank cap; Do not
through the upper pipe into the radiator. try to unscrew the cap until the hissing stops.
When it enters the radiator, the liquid is Always keep a reasonable distance from the
open neck and remember to protect your
cooled by a flow of air as the car moves
hands.
3 • г Системы охлаждения, отопления и кондиционирования
type clamp. are secured with appropriate snap

5. To disconnect the hose, release the connectors where the hose is secured by a
fastening clamps and slide them along the large snap ring 12. To disconnect this type of
hose away from the connection. Carefully connector, carefully remove the snap ring,
remove the hose free from the clamp. The then disconnect the hose (see illustration).
hoses can be removed with relative ease on After removing the hose connection, install
a new car, but maybe on a used one. you will the retaining ring onto the hose coupling.
have to make an effort (see illustration) Check the hose O-ring for signs of damage
6. If the hose cannot be removed or wear and replace as necessary.
immediately, try removing it. turning Gently 13. When connecting, make sure the seal
pry the edge of the hose with a lever using a is installed correctly . as well as a retaining
mild tool (such as a flathead screwdriver), but ring in its recess and on the connector (see
2.5 Release the fastening clamps and slide
do not use excessive force and be careful not illustration) Apply soapy water to the O-ring,
them along the hose. You will be attracted by
to damage the edges of the pipe or hose. loosen the connector, then slide the hose into
its sweet smell, but ingesting antifreeze can
Note that the radiator inlet pipe is fragile; Do the connector until it clicks.
be fatal.
not use excessive force when removing the 14. Make sure the hose is securely secured
Warning: When hose. If attempts to remove the hose using with the retaining ring, then refill the cooling
A At high temperatures, the
cooling system fan(s) may begin to
the methods described are unsuccessful, cut
it off from the connection with a sharp knife
system as described in Chapter 1A or 1B
15. Check for leaks immediately after
rotate, even when the engine is not running. and cut the remaining part on the pipe so that exposure to any cooling system components.
Take precautions when working in the engine it can be removed from the pipe. Although
compartment regarding your hands, hair and this step may result in the loss of a usable
any loose clothing. hose, it should be taken if necessary as it is
Warning: Precautionary measures when preferable to purchasing a new radiator.
A working with models equipped with air

conditioning are given in subsection 11.
Make sure first, however, that the new hose
can be easily reached.
7. When installing, first put on the clamps,
then install the hose. If corrugated clamps
2 Cooling system hoses - were previously installed , secure the hose
disconnecting and replacing
with new worm clamps
Note: Before performing work, read the ---------------------- If the hose
precautions given in subsection 1 of this the vevet is too hard , apply a
chapter. To avoid scalding , disconnect the ___________ little soapy water to
hoses only after the engine has cooled down. lubricate it or soften it in hot water. Do not
1. If the checks described in the subsection use oil or other lubricants as they may be
-Checking fluid leaks- in Chapter 1A or 1B a aggressive to the rubber.
defective hose has been identified, it should
be replaced as follows
2. First, drain the cooling system (see
Chapter 1A or 1B). If the refrigerant does not
need to be replaced, ensure reuse by
draining it into a clean container.
3. To disconnect the hoses, perform the
following operations, in accordance with the
type of connection
Regular connections
2.13 Before snapping the connector into
4. On conventional connections, clamps
place, ensure that the O-ring and (marked by
are used to secure hoses. They can be
the arrow) retaining ring are correctly
worm-type, spring-type or corrugated.
installed on the hose coupling
Gofriro
8. Place the hose in the proper position,
making sure it is installed correctly, then slide
the clamp along the hose towards the
connection until it is behind the protruding -
pipe band of the corresponding inlet/outlet
hole. After this, tighten the clamp securely
9. Fill the cooling system (see Chapter 1A
or 1B).
10. Check for leaks immediately after
exposure to any cooling system components.
4.12. To release the snap connector, Snap connections

carefully remove the retaining ring, then Note: When connecting hoses, a new O-ring
disconnect the hose. The clamp is not must be installed.
reusable and must be replaced with a worm- 11. On certain models, some coolant hoses
Системы охлаждения, отопления и кондиционирования 3•3
Installation 4. Unscrew the two bolts securing the hood

lid lock to the radiator mounting . Remove the
6. Installation is done in reverse
lock by disconnecting its cable (see
illustration).
5. Unscrew the fastening bolt and remove
the hood cover lock bracket (see illustration)
6. Release the clamp, then disconnect the
plastic hose of the expansion tank from the
connector on the right side of the radiator
(see illustration)
7. Using two screwdrivers, press the keys
3.2a Remove the clamps... on the two upper plastic radiator brackets.
Move the top of the radiator towards the
3 Cooling system expansion tank 3.2b.and disconnect the hoses engine, releasing the brackets from their
- removal and locations (see illustration)
install This is the sequence of removal and 8. Move the radiator up to remove it from
ation checking the reliability of the hose the lower guide grooves, then carefully
connections. Finally, add coolant as remove the radiator from the engine
Removal described in the Chapter “Weekly checks” compartment, being careful not to damage its
1. According to Chapter 1A or 1B, drain the 4 Радиатор - снятие, осмотр и
cooling system so that the expansion tank is установка
empty. Do not drain more coolant than
necessary
2. Remove the clamps, then disconnect the Note: If you plan to remove the radiator due cells (see illustration) Remove the lower
plastic hoses from the expansion tank (see to leaks, note that minor leaks can often be rubber radiator pads.
illustration). repaired with sealant without removing the
3. Where the design provides for it. radiator. Inspection
disconnect the wires from the coolant level 9. If the radiator is being removed because
sensor on the expansion tank, Removal it may be clogged, backflow water through it
4. Derive from , , 1. Drain the refrigerant (see Chapter 1A or as described in Chapter 1A or 1B. Remove
remove the expansion tank. 1B). dirt from the radiator and fins using
5. Disconnect the remaining hose(s) and 2. Remove the electric radiator fan as compressed air (in this case, use eye
the expansion tank is removed described in subsection 6 protection) or soft with a brush. Be careful as
3. cooling system hose from the radiator. the plates are sharp and easily damaged.
10. a Unscrew the two bolts (marked with its cable

arrows) securing the hood lid lock to the 12. . Unscrew the fastening bolt and
radiator mounting remove the hood lid lock bracket
4.6 Ослабьте хомут, затем отсоеди- 4.7 Нажмите на шпонки кронштейнов 4.8 Переместите радиатор вверх,
ните шланг расширительного бачка от радиатора. Переместите верхнюю затем аккуратно извлеките радиатор
соединителя радиатора часть радиатора по направлению к из моторного отсека
двигателю
11. b Remove the lock by disconnecting

10. If necessary, a radiator repair specialist

can perform a test to identify internal radiator
blockages.
11. Take a leaking radiator to a professional
for repairs. Do not attempt to weld or solder
a leaking radiator yourself, as this may
damage the plastic components.
12. Check the condition of the radiator
rubber cushions and, if necessary , replace
them
Installation the left of the cylinder head. system has been removed.
13. Installation is carried out in the reverse 5. On engines with 16 valves, remove the c) Finally, fill the cooling system as described
order of removal, including the followingplastic casing from the top of the engine. The in Chapter 1A or 1B.
points: casing is secured with rubber O-rings. Pull
a) Make sure that the lower protrusions of
them upward to remove. 6 Electric cooling fan
the radiator are aligned with its rubber - removal and installation
6. Remove the air duct connecting the
pads in the body panel.
turbocharger to the air meter and disconnect
b) Connect the hoses in accordance with
the cold air intake pipe from the air cleaner Removal
subsection 2, installing new O-rings
base as described in Chapter 4B 1. Drain the coolant from the cooling
where required by the design.
7. Disconnect the cooling system hoses - system (see Chapter 1A or 1B)
c) Install the cooling system electric fan as
from the outlet pipe. as well as wires from the 2. On gasoline engines, remove the air
refrigerant temperature sensor Note that cleaner assembly and the air intake pipe as
b) Fill the cooling system as described in
some of the hoses are disconnected by described in Chapter 4A. On diesel engines,
Chapter 1A or 1B.
pressing the white button or removing the remove the air duct connecting the
5 Thermostat - removal, inspection and small plastic stopper. Unscrew the four turbocharger to the air meter and disconnect
installation screws and remove the pipe (see the cold air supply pipe of the air intake from
illustrations) the base of the air meter.
Examination
Removal 8. You can first test the thermostat by
1. Drain the cooling system (see Chapter
immersing it in a container of water. Heat the
1A or 1B).
water, bringing it to a boil. The thermostat
Gasoline engines should open by the time the water boils. If this
2. The thermostat is installed in the
cooling pipe on the left of the cylinder 9. 5 Disconnect the two wires from the fan
head (see illustration). For easier access to casing , if not, replace the thermostat.
the thermostat on 1.6-liter models, remove - 10. If you have a thermometer, you can -
the air cleaner intake as described in Chapter determine the temperature at which the
4A thermostat operates and compare it with the
3. The thermostat is an integral part of the set one.
cooling pipe. Release adjacent wiring 11. Replace the thermostat that does not
harnesses from their clamps, where close after the water cools down.
provided.
6.3 Disconnect the air intake hose from the
Installation
12. Installation is carried out in the reverse
battery casing , then disconnect the radiator
order of removal, including the following
hose from the cooling pipe . Unscrew the two
points.
bolts and remove the thermostat and pipe
assembly. Remove the O-ring. а) Check the O-ring for damage or leakage
and replace if necessary.
Diesel engines б) Install the air intake piping system as
4. The thermostat is an integral part of the described in Chapter 4A or 4B if the
cooling system outlet pipe and is located on
5.2 Местоположение кожуха термо- 5.7а Нажмите кнопку и отсоедините 5.7Ь Выкрутите крепящие болты (от-
стата (отмечено стрелкой) на бензи- шланг мечены стрелками) выходного пат-
новых двигателях рубка системы охлаждения
Installation
7. If gasoline engine sensors were installed
using sealant, completely clean their threads
and apply new insulation. If the sensor was
installed with a sealant, install a new one.
Install and tighten the sensor securely
8. On diesel engines, install a new O-ring
on the sensor. Insert the sensor into the pipe
and secure with a retaining ring, making sure
that the ring is correctly located in the recess
of the housing.
6.6a Unscrew the two upper (marked with the coolant temperature to the electronic 9. Connect the sensor connecting wire,
arrows) fixing bolts of the cleaner as engine management system. On models with then install the air purifier and/or air intake
described in Chapter 4B a diesel engine there is only one temperature pipe system as described in Chapter 4A or
3. Disconnect the air intake hose from the sensor installed on the outlet pipe of the 4B
Ora battery housing and move it to the side cooling system. The refrigerant temperature 10. Add refrigerant to the cooling system as
(see illustration). indicator and fan are controlled by an described in Chapter “ Weekly checks”
4. Loosen the clamp and remove the upper electronic control system using the signal
radiator pipe transmitted by this sensor (see illustrations) 8 Cooling system pump - removal
5. Disconnect the two wires from the top of and installation ':
the fan casing (see illustration ) from the fan Removal
casing and move it to the side Note: Make sure the engine is cool before
6. After removing the two upper cover bolts, removing the temperature sensor. Removal
move the fan shroud upward to disengage 2. On gasoline engines, remove the air
cleaner assembly and air intake pipe as
1. Drain the cooling system (see Chapter
the lower tabs and remove the shroud from
the engine compartment (see illustrations). described in Chapter 4A. On diesel models, 1A or 1B).
remove the air duct connecting the 2. Remove the timing belt . as described in
Installation turbocharger to the air meter and disconnect Chapter 2A or 2B, in
7. Installation is carried out in the reverse - the cold air intake pipe from the air cleaner
order of removal, including the following base as described in Chapter 4B.
points h. Partially drain the cooling system to a level
a) Install an air cleaner and/ or air intake below the sensor level (as described in
piping system . as described in Chapter Chapter 1A or 1B) Or prepare a suitable plug
4A or 4B to plug the sensor tube when removing it.
b) Finally, fill the cooling system as When using this method, take care not to
described in Chapter 1A or 1B. break the sensor tube or introduce foreign
particles into the system along with the plug.
7 Electrical sensors of the cooling 4. Disconnect the wire from the sensor.
system - general information, removal 5. On gasoline engines, unscrew the
and installation sensor and remove the seal (where provided
by the design). If the system has not been
general information drained, plug the sensor tube to prevent
1. On models with gasoline engines, further loss of refrigerant.
two coolant temperature sensors are 6. On diesel engines, the sensor is snap-
installed. One of them is installed on fitted. Using a lever, remove the sensor
the left of the block head retaining ring, then remove the sensor and O-
6.6P ...to remove the casing from the engine ring from the housing (see illustration) If the
compartment of the cylinders and sends a system has not been drained, plug the
signal for the operation of the indicator sensor tube to prevent further loss of
Another sensor is screwed into the outlet refrigerant.
pipe of the cooling system on the left of the
cylinder head and transmits a signal about
7.6 Снимите с помощью рычага сто-

7.1а Температурные датчики системы 7.1 Ь и дизельных двига телей порное кольцо датчика (отмечено
охлаждения (отмечены стрелками) стрелкой), затем снимите темпера-
бензиновых двигателей... турный датчик дизельного двигателя
located in the air distributor casing, which flaps. to maintain the climate settings in the
operates centrally, supplying air to various car interior dialed on the remote control
pipes and diffusers. If a system malfunction is detected, the
Cold air enters the system through the vehicle should be taken to an authorized
grille when moving. If necessary, the air flow service station. A full system test can be
is increased by a fan and passes through performed using a special electronic
various tubes, according to the setting diagnostic stand connected to the engine
Air circulation in the cabin is carried out management system connector (located next
through tubes at the rear of the vehicle. If the to the fuse box)
air needs to be heated, it is passed through
the heater core, which is heated by engine 10 Heating/ventilation system
8.3a Remove the cooling system pump ... coolant components - removal and installation
The recirculation lever allows you to
recirculate air into the vehicle interior when Remote Control
depending on the type and modification of
the external air damper is closed. With this
the engine. Removal
mode , no unpleasant air from outside gets
3. Loosen and remove the mounting bolts, into the cabin; this mode should not be used 1. Remove the stereo system (see Chapter
then remove the pump assembly from the 12),
for long, since the recirculated air in the
engine. Remove the pump O-ring/gasket 2. Grasp through the opening under the -
vehicle will soon become stale.
(depending on design). When installing, use stereo system and remove the accessory box
On some diesel models, there is an
a new seal (see illustrations} Please note that by pressing out the tabs on its sides (see
electric heater in the heater shroud. When
on some engines the O-ring is not supplied illustrations}
the coolant is cold, the electric heater warms
separately from the pump. Check with the 3. Apply force to the top of the remote
the air before it passes through the heater
manufacturer. control to release its upper mounting tabs,
core. This quickly increases the temperature
then slide the remote control upward to
of the heater core when starting from a cold
Installation release its lower tabs (see illustrations}
state, supplying warm air to warm the vehicle
4. Make sure the mating surfaces of the
interior soon after the engine starts. .
4. On models with a manual remote control,
pump and cylinder block are clean and dry. when setting up the system, disconnect the
cables
5. Install a new O-ring /gasket (depending System with automatic climate
on design) onto the pump, then install the control
pump assembly and tighten its mounting
bolts to the specified torque. Some models feature a fully automatic
6. Install the timing belt as described in electronic climate control system. The main
Chapter 2A or 2B (depending on design). components of the system are exactly the
7. Fill the cooling system as described in same as in the manual system, except that
Chapter 1A or 1B (depending on engine the blinds in the system are controlled by
type). electric motors. and not with cables.
9 Heating and ventilation system

- general information
Note: Refer to Section 11 for information

regarding the air conditioning system.
Manual system
The heating/ventilation system consists of
a four-speed fan (located behind the
console), interior heating/ventilation diffusers
8.3с Unscrew the fastening bolts (marked
in the center and sides of the console, and air
with arrows) of the cooling system pump
ducts in the front of the footwells in the cabin.
The control unit is located in the console, (models with diesel engines)
and the controls move the blinds to direct and The operation of the system is controlled
mix the air supplied by an electronic control unit (which is located
in the control panel) along with the following
sensors.
a) Vehicle interior sensor - transmits the air
temperature in the vehicle interior to the
control unit.
b) Evaporator temperature sensor -
transmits the evaporator temperature to
the control unit.
c) Heater radiator sensor - transmits the
temperature of the heater radiator to the
control unit.
8.3b .. and remove the O-ring (petrol By processing information from these -
engines) through the various parts of the sensors, the control unit determines the
heating /ventilation system. The shutters are appropriate positions for the air distributor
14. Referring to Chapter 11, remove the

glove box (right-hand drive models) or
driver's side lower panel (left-hand drive
models).
15. Place a container under the heater
radiator coupling, to the left of the air
distributor casing, to catch spilling coolant 16.
Release the wiring harness on the side of the
radiator tubes from the clamps , then
unscrew the screws securing the radiator and
its tubes to the casing (see illustration)
4.2 a Grasp through the opening under 10.26 ..pressing the protrusions on its sides 17. Remove the radiator from the casing,
the stereo system and remove the accessory (marked with an arrow) then disconnect the pipes from it, catching
box. the spilled coolant in a container. Remove
the O-rings installed in the pipe couplings .
New seals should be used during installation.
Be careful not to lose the frame bulkhead
insulator or tube mounting plate.
Installation
18. Make sure the insulator and tube
mounting plate are installed correctly on the
radiator tubes and install new O-rings on
each pipe coupling 19. Install the radiator and
tube assembly and attach the tubes and
radiator to the bulkhead. Install the mounting
4.3 a Release the upper mounting tabs of YU.Z ...then move the remote control up to screws and secure the wiring harness in its
the control panel... original location.
release the lower protrusions (marked with
20. Working in the engine compartment,
arrows) so that the cable is securely fixed
from the rear side of the remote control. Mark install the insulation and mounting plate onto
with its clamps. Before installing the console,
the correct original location of the control the heater core tubes and tighten the
check the functionality of the control panel
arms (their ends are different in color), then mounting screw securely. Release the
and cables (see Chapter 11).
disconnect the cable clamps. Separate the clamps (where provided by the design) then
cables and remove the control panel through Heater radiator connect the coolant supply hoses, securing
the opening under the audio system. them with the clamps.
Removal
5. on models with an automatic climate 21. Reinstall the components removed for
control system, connect the wires and 10. To improve access to the radiator access and fill the cooling system (see
remove the control panel through the brackets on the body frame, remove the air Chapter 1A or 1B).
opening in the floor audio system cleaner assembly and/or air intake pipe(s) as
described in Chapter 4L or 4B
Installation 11. Drain the coolant from the cooling
6. Installation p| "is harassed by । 1st system (see Chapter 1A or 1B) or clamp the
Removal Sequence On models with a heater coolant hoses to minimize coolant
manually adjustable system, ensure that the loss.
control cables are properly connected and 12. Remove the locking brackets and -
securely connected, check the functionality connect the coolant supply hoses from the
of the control knobs before installing the heater couplings to the engine compartment
control panel in the console bulkhead (see Fig.
Control cables
Removal 22. 13 Unscrew the fastening screw ( -
7. Remove kg' l Chapter 11). marked with an arrow) of the heater pipe
plate
8. Press the retaining clip and disconnect
the corresponding cable from the back of the
control panel and the air distributor housing.
Remove the cable, noting its original location.
Installation
9. Installation in reverse order of removal
Make sure
10.12 Using the lever, remove the locking
bracket and disconnect the heater hose
illustration).
13. Loosen and unscrew the screw
securing the tube frame to the bulkhead and
the mounting plate with the seal (see
illustration)
Heater fan 36. 16 Unscrew the screws (marked with Warning: Leaking A /C pipe seals will
Removal
22. The fan is installed on top of the left
arrows) securing the radiator and its tubes to
the casing A cause the water separator reservoir to
become saturated, necessitating its
replacement.
edge of the air distributor casing, necessary to prevent loss of coolant when
23. On right-hand drive models, remove casing 36 is removed . Remove the insulator 41. Remove the air limiter casing . as
the glove box as described in Chapter 11. and mounting plate for the heater radiator described in points 33-36 and replace the
This will provide access to the fan through pipes and casing support insulators. If signs evaporator insulation
of damage or wear are detected, replace the
the glove box opening. Installation with air conditioning
24. On left-hand drive models , to gain insulators.
42. Ensure that the frame bulkhead -
access to the fan, remove the driver's side Installation without air conditioning INSULATORS are correctly installed on the
lower panel as described in Chapter 11. 37. Install in the reverse order of removal, evaporator, heater core tubes, and air
25. Where provided by the design, loosen making sure there are insulators where the distributor housing support. Install the
and unscrew the screw securing the fan to radiator casing and pipes are attached to the housing assembly and correctly route the
the casing (this screw may not be installed) body components. Refill the cooling system housing drain hose into the floor opening.
26. Disconnect the wire(s) from the fan. (see Chapter 1A or 1B) 43. Pre-install the casing mounting bolt,
27. Remove the fan from the casing by then install the mounting plate on the heater
turning it clockwise (see illustration)
Removal with conditioner
radiator tubes and pre-install the mounting
Warning: Refer to Section 11 for screw,
Installation
order of removal. If the fan is not securely
A precautions that must be observed when 44. Lubricate the new evaporator
working with air conditioning system - connector O-rings with compressor oil.
components . Do not attempt the following Remove the plugs, install the O-rings, then
fastened to the casing, secure it with a self- procedure unless the system has been quickly reassemble
tapping screw by screwing the screw into the professionally discharged.
hole provided for this purpose.
38. Have the air conditioning system
Air distributor discharged by a professional and purchase
suitable plugs for the air conditioner pipe
Removal without conditioner couplings while the system is disconnected.
29. To facilitate access to the heater core 39. Perform the operations described in
connectors, remove the air cleaner assembly paragraphs 29-32
and/or air intake tube(s) as described in 40. Unscrew the two nuts securing the air
Chapter 4A or 4B conditioner pipe couplings to
30. Drain the coolant from the cooling
system (see Chapter 1A or 1B) Or. When
working in the engine compartment, clamp
10.40 Unscrew the two nuts (marked with
the heater core coolant hoses to minimize
arrows) securing the air conditioner pipe
coolant loss
couplings to the frame bulkhead
31. Remove the locking brackets and
disconnect the coolant supply hoses from the
heater radiator couplings on the engine
compartment bulkhead (see illustration
10.12)
32. Loosen and unscrew the screw -
securing the tube frame and the mounting
41. 33 Bolt (marked with arrow) securing
plate with the seal to the bulkhead (see
the air distributor casing
illustration 10.13)
33. Loosen and unscrew the bolt securing
the air distributor casing to the frame
bulkhead (see illustration) 34. Remove the
console as described in Chapter 11
35. Disconnect the wires from the -
heating/ventilation housing components,
then remove the housing and control panel
assembly from the vehicle. Keep the heater
core hose couplings pointing upward as this
1. .27 Remove the fan from the casing by

turning it clockwise against the frame
bulkhead (see illustration) Disconnect the
tubes from the evaporator and quickly
insulate the tubes and connectors of the
evaporator gel to prevent moisture from
entering the closed air conditioning system
Remove the O-rings When installing, use
new seals.
connect the air conditioner pipe couplings to mixes with hot air passing through the heater Compressor
the evaporator. Make sure the pipe core to achieve the desired temperature
connection to the evaporator is correct, then inside the vehicle. Removal
tighten the lock nuts securely. The heating components of the system 1. Completely discharge the air -
45. Securely tighten the heater core tube function in the same way as on models conditioning system with the help of a
securing screw and the casing mounting bolt. without air conditioning (see subsection 9) specialist.
46. The remaining installation is carried out The operation of the system is controlled 2. Remove the accessory drive belt as
in the reverse order of removal 0 when by the electronic unit of the engine control described in Chapter 1A or 1B (depending on
completed, fill the cooling system (see system and from the control panel. The design used).
Chapter 1A or 1B> system should be serviced and repaired at 3. Disconnect the compressor wire
branded or highly qualified service centers. 4. Unscrew the nuts securing the plate of -
Internal air temperature sensor the refrigerant supply pipes to the
47. The sensors* are located at the base of Precautionary measures compressor (see illustration) From connect
the control panel on the right of the audio - the pipes from the compressor, immediately
If you have an air conditioning system ,
system. insulating the connectors of the pipes and the
you should take precautions when coming
48. Remove the stereo system (see compressor to prevent moisture from
into contact with any component of the
Chapter 12). entering the cooling circuit. Remove the
system. The refrigerant gas is potentially
49. Grasp through the opening under the - seals. When installing, use new O-rings.
dangerous. Only a specialist should come
stereo system and remove the accessory box
into contact with it. Uncontrolled release of
by pressing the tabs on its side {see.
refrigerant is dangerous and destructive to
illustrations 10.2a and 10.2b) In the same
the environment for the following reasons.
way, grab through the opening and remove
the control panel 50. . a) If it comes into contact with skin, it may
wires cause frostbite.
51. Uiganonka shui.'.is poured in the b) The refrigerant is heavier than air and -
reverse order of removal. displaces oxygen. In an enclosed,
unventilated area, refrigerant poses a
Additional heater on diesel risk of suffocation. Since the cooling gas
models Removal is colorless and odorless, there is no
52. Refer to Chapter 11. Remove the evidence of its presence in the
accessory box (right-hand drive models ) or atmosphere. 12.4 Unscrew the nuts securing the plate
driver's side lower instrument panel (left- c) Although the refrigerant itself is not of the refrigerant supply pipes * to the
hand drive models). poisonous, in the presence of an open compressor
53. Disconnect the contact wire from the flame (including a cigarette) it forms a
heater, then unscrew the screw, release the harmful gas that causes headaches,
latch at the base and remove the heater from nausea, etc.
the casing Warning: Not
Installation
54. Installation is done in o! | no sequence
of withdrawal
A Try to open any pipe/hose of
the air conditioning system without first
having the system discharged by a specialist.
After finishing work, have the system
11 Air conditioning system - charged by an air conditioning specialist.
general information and precautions
Warning: Always plug system pipes,
general information
On some models, an air conditioning
A couplings and hoses immediately after
disconnecting. If this rule is not
followed, the system may fail due to
system is used. This allows air to be supplied saturation of the water separator reservoir,
into the cabin at a temperature below which will necessitate the need to replace
ambient temperature, as well as to dry the air the water separator. Also, during
for quick removal of fogging and increased installation, replace any O-rings that have
comfort. been exposed.
The cooling components of the system - Warning: Not
work like a conventional refrigerator. The
refrigerant, through a belt-driven
compressor, enters the condenser at the
A turn on the system when it is
discharged, as the compressor may be
damaged if there is no refrigerant.
front of the radiator, where the gas turns
into liquid, releasing heat. The liquid flows
through the expansion valve to the
12 Air conditioning system
evaporator, where the high pressure liquid components - removal and installation
is converted into a low pressure gas. This '
transformation is accompanied by a
decrease in temperature and cooling Warning: Refer to safety precautions. as
evaporator The gas flows back to the
compressor and the cycle resumes
A described in Section 11, and discharge
the system with the assistance of a
The air passing through the evaporator - qualified technician before performing any
enters the heating/ventilation casing, where it work that may affect system components.
з • ю Системы охлаждения, отопления и кондиционирования
Capacitor pipe is connected correctly.

c) Install the headlight and front bumper as
Removal described in Chapters 12 and 11
10. Have the system discharged by an air respectively.
conditioning specialist. b) Have the air conditioning system
11. Remove the front bumper and its recharged by a specialist.
bracket as described in Chapter 11
12. Remove the left headlight assembly as Water separator filter
described in Chapter 12. Removal
13. Unscrew the lock nuts and connect the 17. The water separator filter is located on
cooler tubes from the right side of the the left side of condenser 18. Remove the
12.5 Unscrew the bolts (marked with condenser. Remove the O-rings. condenser as described above.
arrows) securing the compressor Warning: Leaking A /C pipe seals will 19. Loosen the water separator filter
Warning: Leaking seals on the air A cause the water separator reservoir to retaining screw and unscrew the filter
become saturated, necessitating its element using the large socket.
A conditioning system tubes will lead to
saturation of the water separator
replacement. Warning: Pe
reservoir, making it necessary to replace it.
5. Unscrew the spring mounting bolts . then
14. Using two screwdrivers, press down on
the keys on either side of the top condenser
mounting bracket. Move the top of the
A Before loosening the clamp,
clean and wipe the water separator dry
to prevent moisture and dirt from entering the
remove the compressor from its bracket and condenser forward to remove the bracket
air conditioning circuit.
remove it from the engine compartment (see from its location. Note that some versions
illustration) have two top brackets. Installation
15. When removing, slide the condenser up 20. Installation is carried out in the reverse
Installation to release the lower support tabs, then order of removal, including the following
6. Place the compressor in its location and carefully remove it from the vehicle. Remove points: a) Lubricate the filter element seal
secure with the mounting bolts. Gradually the lower rubber pad of the condenser. with compressor oil.
tighten the mounting bolts in a diagonal b) Have the air conditioning system
sequence.
Installation
recharged by a professional before use.
7. Lubricate the new O-rings with 16. Installation is carried out in the reverse
compressor oil, remove the plugs and install order of removal, including the following Evaporator
the O-rings, then immediately connect the points:
Removal
coolant pipes to the compressor. Make sure а) Make sure the top brackets and bottom
rubber pad are installed correctly, then 21. Discharge the system from a specialist
the coolant pipes are installed correctly and
install the capacitor to its location in the in air conditioning systems 22. Remove the
install the retaining bolt, tightening it
front panel. air distributor casing as described in
securely.
subsection 9 23. Unclench the stoppers and
8. Connect the compressor wires . then б) Lubricate the O-rings with compressor
oil. Remove the plugs and install the O- separate the two parts of the heater casing
install the accessory drive belt (see Chapter
rings, then immediately connect the 24. Remove the evaporator from the casing
1A or 1B).
9. Have the air conditioning system cooler tubes to the condenser. Tighten Installation
recharged by a professional before use. the water separator pipe coupling nut 25. Installation is carried out in the reverse
securely and make sure the compressor order of removal
4А • П
Chapter 4 Part A:
Fuel and exhaust systems - gasoline engines
Content
General information > precautions. 1 Fuel tank - removal and installation 10
Air cleaner assembly and Engine management system - checking and adjustment .
inlet pipes - removal and installation 2 .................................................................. eleven
Accelerator cable - removal, installation and adjustment 3 Throttle body - removal and installation 12 Engine management
Fuel control pedal - removal and installation . . system components
4 removal and installation ........................................................... 13
Unleaded gasoline - general information and use ..................... 5 Intake manifold - removal and installation 14
Engine management system - general information 6 Exhaust manifold - removal and installation 15
Fuel system - releasing and increasing pressure 7 Exhaust system - general information
Fuel pump - removal and installation. .............. 8 removal and installation ........................................................... 16
Replacing the filter
Fuel consumption sensor - removal and installation. 9
air cleaner element .... . see Chapter 1A

System type
1 1-liter
M
adepeinMateI models! MM48 R2
14 liter models . . . 82000 PM1 V
affected
1 6-liter modelsэлектрический, погруженный в топливный бак
3.5±0 2бар
850 ± 100 оборотов в минуту (регулируется
системой управления двигателем, не вручную) не
более 1 0 % (регулируется системой управления
двигателем, не вручную)
95
Н/м
V
ovsp Mo1gon1s ME7 4 4
Fuel System Specifications
Fuel pump type.....................................................................................
Regulating constant pressure ........................................................ .........
Idle speed
Content of CO impurities in exhaust gases
Recommended fuel grades

Minimum octane number

Nuts securing the exhaust manifold to the cylinder head 20
Intake manifold nuts
MB ....................... 10
M8 . .................................... .......... 20
Wheel bolts. . . ....................................... 90
1.1 General information and The fuel system includes the fuel tank containing the electric fuel pump) and the
precautions (mounted under the rear of the body and forward and return fuel lines. The fuel pump
4А • П
pumps fuel to a fuel rail, which acts as a Refer to Section 6 for more detailed given in the “ Safety First!” section . at the
reservoir for four fuel injectors that inject fuel information on engine management system beginning of this Manual, and follow them -
into the intake tracts operation and Section 16 for information carefully Gasoline is a very dangerous
regarding the exhaust system. volatile liquid, precautions when working with
Warning: Many of the procedures in this it cannot be ignored.
A chapter require removal of fuel lines and Note: Residual pressure will remain in the
connections, which may result in fuel fuel lines for a long time after the engine is
spillage. turned off. Before disconnecting the fuel
Before performing any operations that - lines, remove the residual pressure in the
involve exposure to the fuel system, read the system, as described in subsection 7.
precautions
ДА • 2 Топливная и выхлопная системы - бензиновые двигатели
1.3 Disconnect the plastic air intake hose

2 L Loosen the clamp securing the air 1.2 Release the clamps on the connector from the resonator inlet duct or from the air
cleaner hood to the throttle body and disconnect the breather hose from the cleaner
air cleaner housing
1.4 Turn the plastic lock 90' to releasethrottle body, moving the air cleaner up to Removal
free it from the lower support Slide the air 1. Working in the engine compartment, -
cleaner to the side and remove it from the release the accelerator cable from the throttle
2 Air cleaner assembly and engine compartment (see illustrations) clamp, then slide the cable sheath out of the
inlet pipes - removal and Remove the throttle body seal from the air rubber seal of the mounting bracket. Remove
installation cleaner cover the stopper from the cable sheath (see
6. To remove the air intake hose or illustration)
resonator, loosen the clamp and remove the 2. Release the cable along its length from
Removal hose or resonator through the top of the all clamps and clamps, noting its correct
1. Loosen the clamp securing the air engine compartment. location
cleaner hood to the throttle body ! (see 3. Remove the driver's side lower trim panel
illustration). Installation as described in Chapter 11
2. Release the clamps on the connector 7. Installation is carried out in the reverse 4. Having gained access from the rear side
and disconnect the engine breather hose order of removing the Ube- of the panel, squeeze the stopper, then
from the air cleaner cap (see illustration disconnect the cable from the gas pedal and
3. ' I remove the fastening from the partition of the
air intake hose from the inlet pipe at the front
engine compartment (see illustration)
of the engine compartment or from the air
5. Tie the thread to the end of the rope
cleaner resonator in the base of the air 6. Returning to work in the engine
cleaner, depending on the engine model (see compartment, remove the cable O-ring from
illustration} the engine compartment bulkhead and pull
4. Turn the plastic lock out the cable. At
8. 4 Squeeze the stopper (marked with

arrows ). then disconnect the cable from the
gas pedal and remove the fastening (marked
with an arrow) from the partition of the engine
compartment
2.5b ...while moving the air cleaner upward to
free it from the lower support, ensure that all
pipes and hoses are correctly connected and
positioned and, where necessary, that their
3.1 Remove the stopper (marked with an
clamps are securely tightened
arrow ) from the cable sheath
2.5a Disconnect the air cleaner cap from the 3. Accelerator cable -
throttle body... removal, installation and adjustment
torus attaching the air cleaner to the support Note: The accelerator cable is installed only
bracket at 90“ (see illustration ) on 1.1-liter models.
5. Disconnect the air cleaner cap from the
Топливная и выхлопная системы - бензиновые двигатели а А • з
When the end of the cable appears, untie the Vossn, Madpay-MageSh, Zadet and are very
thread and leave it on the cable - it can be similar to each other in most respects. The
used to guide the cable during installation only significant differences are in the
software of the electronic devices and the
Installation arrangement of components according to
7. Tie a thread to the end of the cable, then engine type. The system includes a closed-
use it to pull the cable through the partition of loop catalytic converter and exhaust gas
the engine compartment control system that meets the latest
When the end of the cable appears, untie standards. Chapter 58 provides information
the thread and attach the cable to the gas on ignition control systems; Fuel supply
pedal control is carried out as follows
8. Install the engine shield fasteners. The fuel pump supplies fuel from the tank
9. When working in the engine
Installation to the fuel rail. The pump itself is installed in
compartment, make sure . that the cable 6. Installation is carried out in the reverse - the tank, and its engine is constantly
order of removal. On models with an immersed in fuel for cooling. The fuel rail is
sheath is correctly laid in the fastener seal of
accelerator cable, lightly lubricate the pedal installed directly above the fuel injectors and
the engine compartment partition, then
axle with multi-purpose grease and install the acts as a fuel reservoir.
secure the cable along its length with clamps
accelerator cable as described in subsection The fuel supply pressure to the rail is
and fasteners, ensuring that its position is
3 controlled by a pressure regulator . Also
correct
10. Pass the cable sheath through the located in the fuel tank, the regulator contains
5 Unleaded gasoline - general a spring-loaded valve that opens to allow
fastener seal and connect it to the throttle information and use
excess fuel to circulate within the tank when
valve control rod. Fix the cable as described
the fuel system's optimal operating pressure
below. Note: The information provided in this is exceeded (for example, when driving at
Adjustment chapter was current at the time of writing. If low speeds or transporting a load)
11. the accelerator cable sheath (see you think it needs to be updated, contact the Fuel injectors are electromagnetic axial
manufacturer. When operating the vehicle valves that spray fuel into the combustion
illustration 3.1) Make sure that the throttle -
abroad, consult one of the automotive chambers under the control of the electronic
valve rod is in the fully open position of the
organizations (or similar) regarding the engine management system. Four injectors,
throttle valve, gently pull the cable sheath
appropriate fuel. one for each cylinder, are installed in the
from its o-ring seal until the play between the
1. recommended fuels are listed in the intake manifold, next to the cylinder head.
cable and the sheath completely disappears
technical data section of this chapter. Each injector is mounted at an angle and
12. Maintaining this position of the cable.
2. All models are designed to operate on sprays fuel directly onto the rear of the intake
install the stopper on the outermost recess
fuel with an octane rating of 95 units. Each valve(s). An electronic system controls the
on the sheath in front of the rubber sealing
model is equipped with a catalytic converter amount of fuel delivered and when the
ring. With the stopper installed and the cable
and is designed to run on unleaded gasoline. injectors open. The fuel injection system
sheath secured, only a small gap should
Never use gasoline with added lead or lead- operates on a sequential basis, with each
remain between the cable and its sheath. containing impurities as this may damage the injector operating individually on its cylinder.
Have an assistant press the gas pedal and converter.
check that the throttle linkage fully opens and 3. If desired, you can use 98 octane
smoothly returns to its original position. gasoline on all models, although this does
damper not provide any advantage.
4 Fuel control pedal - removal and 6 Engine management system -
installation general information
Removal Note: The electronic device of the fuel

injection system is of a “self-learning” type,
Models with accelerator cable which means monitoring and maintaining
1. Disconnect the accelerator cable from settings during operation that provide optimal
the pedal as described in the previous engine performance in all operating modes.
subsection When the battery is disconnected, the
2. Remove the stopper and remove the gas accumulated settings are lost and the
pedal from the pedal hinge axis. On electronic device returns to the main settings
left-hand drive models programmed into its memory at the factory.
4.5 Mounting nuts (marked with When restarting, it will be necessary to keep
arrows) of the gas pedal . remove the the engine idling for some time until the
two pedal axle bushings, electronic device re-establishes the optimal
Models without accelerator cable settings. The best effect is achieved by
testing the vehicle (for approximately 15
3. Remove the driver's side lower panel as
minutes), covering the entire range of engine
described in Chapter 11
speeds and loads, concentrating mainly in
4. Disconnect the pedal position sensor
the range 2500-3500 rpm.
wire from the top of the pedal.
5. Unscrew the three nuts and remove the On all models, the fuel injection and
ignition systems are combined into one
pedal ( see illustration)
engine management system. The systems
installed on our vehicles are manufactured by
ДА • 145 Топливная и выхлопная системы - бензиновые двигатели
The electrical part of the control system - control system are described in more detail
consists of an electronic device and the in Chapter 4C.
following sensors: a) Throttle potentiometer - If the data transmitted by various sensors
tells the electronic device the location of the deviates from the norm, the electronic device
throttle valve and the timing of begins to operate in a “backup” mode. In this
opening/closing the throttle. case, the erroneous sensor signals are
b) Coolant temperature sensor - informs the rejected, and the electronic device takes on
device about the engine temperature. the set “backup” values, allowing the engine
c) Intake Air Temperature Sensor - Informs to continue to operate, although with less
an electronic device about the efficiency. When exiting electronic device to
temperature of the air passing through this mode, a warning light lights up on the
the throttle body. dashboard. and the corresponding fault code 3. 2 Pressure safety valve (marked with
b) Lambda probe - informs the device about is stored in the memory of the electronic arrow)
the oxygen content in the exhaust gases device.
(described in detail in part C of this When the lamp comes on, the vehicle
chapter). should be provided to the manufacturer's
f) Intake manifold absolute pressure sensor - representatives or a diagnostic specialist as
informs the device about the load on the soon as possible to carry out a full diagnosis
engine in accordance with the of the engine management system using
compression in the intake manifold. special equipment. Diagnostic equipment is
() Crankshaft position sensor - tells the connected to the corresponding connector of
electronic device the speed and angular the system. located above the passenger
position of the crankshaft. side fuse box
e) Vehicle speed sensor - informs the device Note: Before starting work, read the
about the vehicle speed (on models with precautions given in subsection 1.
AB8 this function is performed by the
wheel speed sensor). 7 Fuel system - releasing and increasing
(1) Knock sensor - informs the device about pressure
the presence of early ignition .
I) Accelerator pedal position sensor - informs
the device about the position of the
Pressure release
pedal.
)) Throttle position servomotor - allows the Warning: The following procedure will
system to control the position of the
throttle valve (Enabled and Enabled).
Aonly reduce the pressure in the fuel -
system. Remember that fuel will still be
Signals from the sensors are processed present in system components and take -
by an electronic device. Based on this appropriate precautions before
information, the device sets parameters and disconnecting them.
controls the fuel injectors (by changing the 1. The fuel system discussed in this
pulse width - the length of time during which subsection is considered to be an in-tank fuel
the injectors are open to enrich or lean the pump and fuel injectors. fuel rail and fuel
air-fuel mixture). The system constantly lines between these components All
changes the mixture composition to provide components contain fuel under high pressure
suitable parameters during engine start, when the engine is running and/or the ignition
warm-up, idling, and acceleration is on. After the ignition is turned off, the
The system also controls the idle speed pressure remains for some time. If they fail
through the idle speed controller (stepper and any repairs or maintenance are required
motor) which is mounted on the throttle body. from the above components. the pressure
The stepper motor changes the volume of air should be reduced according to the
passing through the throttles or the position described method
of the throttles themselves. depending on the 2. All models have a safety valve on the fuel
model in question. On the Engaged and rail (see illustration) Unscrew the valve cap,
Possible systems, the sensor informs the placing a container under the valve. Applying
device of the position and range of pressing a rag to the valve, relieve pressure in the
the accelerator pedal. The system controls system by unscrewing the spool with an
the opening of the throttle using a stepper appropriate screwdriver. If the spool is open,
motor. integrated into the throttle body These fuel may be released. therefore, plug it with a
system models do not provide an accelerator rag Hold the spool until no fuel flows from the
cable. The system also fine-tune the idle valve After reducing the pressure, screw the
speed, changing the ignition timing to valve cap securely
increase or decrease engine torque during
idle operation. This allows you to stabilize the
idle speed under electrical and mechanical
loads. engine (for example, headlights, air
conditioning, etc.) and in their absence.
The exhaust system and exhaust gas
Топливная и выхлопная системы - бензиновые двигатели ад • 5
Raising pressure
3. After completing work on the fuel system,
the pressure in it should be increased in the
following way:
4. Fully depress the gas pedal and turn on
the ignition. Hold the pedal in this position
for about 1 second and then release. The
electronic device of the engine management
system will turn on the pump and fill the
system in 20-30 seconds. As soon as the
fuel pump turns off, the ignition can be
8.3 Disconnect the various fuel pump wires 2 .6 Remove the fuel pump assembly ,
turned off.
being careful not to damage the float sensor
8.5 Press a screwdriver to rotate the retaining
rod
8 Fuel pump -
1. To gain access to the fuel pump,
Снятие
fold or remove the rear seat cushion (see
Chapter 11)
2. Using a screwdriver, carefully press on
the three plastic pump casing guards,
indicated by small arrows, and remove the
ring counterclockwise with a proprietary tool 10 . Align the arrows on the pump housing
casing from the floor, gaining access to the
on the bearing. allowing you to unscrew the with the previously known marks on the fuel
pump/sensor (see illustration)
ring using a sliding ratchet tank and snap the pump assembly into place.
3. Disconnect the wire from the fuel pump
6. Carefully remove the fuel pump 11 . Install and securely tighten the retaining
and tape its connector to the car body so that
assembly from the tank, being careful not to ring until its installation marks align with the
the wire does not fall behind the tank (see
damage the rods at the fuel level float sensorarrows on the fuel pump housing (see
illustration )
or spill fuel inside the car (see illustration )
illustration) 12. Securely connect the fuel line
4. Relieve pressure in the fuel system as
Remove the rubber sealing ring. When hose(s) to the housing, then connect the fuel
described in subsection 7. then compress the
installing, use a new ring pump wire 13. Increase the pressure in the
clamp and disconnect the fuel line from the
7. Please note that the fuel pump is fuel system (see subsection 7) Start the
top of the pump. Plug the hose(s) to minimize
supplied as an assembly only, those engine and check the fuel pump hose
fuel loss and prevent dirt from entering (see
components are not supplied separately . couplings for signs of leakage
illustration)
14. If there are no defects , install the plastic
5. Remember the position of the installation
Installation cover, making sure that its installation key is
marks on the tank, pump casing and -
retaining ring, unscrew the ring and remove it 8. Install a new O-ring on the fuel tank (see in front.
illustration ) 15. Install the rear seat cushion (see Chapter
from the tank. To do this, it is better to use a
screwdriver, grabbing the ring by its 9. Carefully install the pump into the tank, 11)
protrusions. Gently press the screwdriver being careful not to damage the float sensor
against the ring, turning it counterclockwise rod.
until the ring can be unscrewed by hand {see. 1 .4 Squeeze the clamp and disconnect the
illustration) Or use special fuel line hose from the pump
8.11 Tighten the locking ring until its

8.2 Pressure points (marked with arrows) alignment mark aligns with the pump cover
8.8 Установите на топливный бак но-
on the fuel pump casing latches mark (marked with arrows)
вое кольцевое уплотнение
4А • Б Топливная и выхлопная
системы - бензиновые двигатели
Датчик расхода топпива является

неотъемлемой частью насоса в сборе и
не поставляется отдельно, Обратитесь к
операциям снятия и установки
подраздела 8.
9 Fuel consumption sensor -

10 Fuel tank - 6. Use a lever to remove the plastic rivets, tank. If it is damaged, it is replaced along with
removal and installation then remove the left rear wheel arch the gas tank.
protection (see illustration)
7. Remove the rear suspension springs . in Installation
accordance with Chapter 10. 18. V- ganoeka is carried out in the reverse
Note: Before starting work, refer to the 8. Remove the exhaust system order of removal, including the following
precautions given in subsection 1. components as described in subsection 16 points
9. Unscrew the nuts, separate the plastic
Removal rivets and remove the plastic trims on the
а) Make sure that the connection is correct
and that the wires and fuel line hoses are
1. Before removing the fuel tank, completely sides of the fuel tank
drain the fuel from it. Since the fuel drain plug securely connected with clamps and
10. B1 |
is not provided for in the design, it is fasteners. When installing the tank,
Place the heat-resistant shield on the back of
preferable to carry out the removal operation make sure that the tubes/wires do not fall
the tank
with an almost empty fuel tank. Before the into the gap between the car body and
11. Unscrew the bolt securing the filler neck
operation, disconnect the battery (see the gas tank.
to the inner wheel arch (see illustration}
Chapter BA) and remove the remaining fuel б) Install the rear springs under the
12. Remove the damper from the left rear
in the tank using a hand pump or drain hose, suspensions. as described in Chapter
side of the suspension
2. Remove the rear seat CUSHION and, 10.
13. Place a hydraulic jack with a block on
using a screwdriver, gently press the pump в) Install the exhaust system components
the head under the tank and jack up the tank
casing clamps at the points indicated by the as described in subsection 16.
14. Loosen and unscrew the four nuts
stands, and remove the casing from the floor b) Finally, fill the tank with a small amount of
securing the fuel tank to the body (see
of the car to remove the fuel pump (see fuel and increase the pressure in the fuel
illustrations} Remove the insulation from the
illustration 8.2) system as described in subsection 7.
filler neck through the opening of the gas tank
3. Disconnect the wire from the fuel pump Before leaving, check for signs of fuel
cap.
and tape its connector to the car body so that leakage.
15. Slowly lower the fuel tank, ensuring that
the wire does not fall behind the tank (see -
the filler neck assembly is clear of its location
illustration 8.3)
and is not obstructing removal.
4. Relieve pressure in the fuel system as
16. If sediment has accumulated in the tank
described in subsection 7, then squeeze the
or water remains, remove the fuel pump
clamp and disconnect the fuel line hose(s)
(section 8) and wash the tank with clean fuel.
from the top of the pump (see illustration 8.4)
The tank is cast from
Plug the hose(s) to minimize fuel loss and
prevent dirt from entering 10.146 ..and right rear (marked with an
5. Block the front wheels, then raise the arrow) synthetic alloy lock nuts If serious
rear of the car. damage is found on it, the gas tank should be
10.14a Left rear on the fuel tank (marked with replaced. However, in certain cases, if there
an arrow)... are minor leaks, the tank can be restored.
Before attempting to restore the fuel tank,
consult a specialist
bi la and install axle supports 17. The neck is not separable from the gas
10.6а Снимите рычагом пластмас- 10.6Ь ...и извлеките защиту арки ко-
совые заклепки.. леса 10.11 Выкрутите болт (отмечен
стрелкой), крепящий заливную гор-
ловину к арке колеса
Adjustment 3. Having remembered the preliminary -

position of the wires, squeeze the stopper
3. Take the opportunity to check the CO
and disconnect the wires from the throttle
content in the exhaust gases and the idle
speed. If these characteristics are not within body (see illustration)
normal limits, the vehicle should be sent to a 4. Loosen and unscrew the mounting bolts,
manufacturer's service station for further - then remove the throttle body from the intake
diagnosis. Do not manually adjust the CO manifold (see illustration^ Remove the
level and idle speed, as the fault lies in the manifold O-ring. When installing, use a new
engine management system seal.
11.2 The connector for diagnostic Removal Installation

equipment (marked with an arrow) is located
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly . as 5. Installation is carried out in the reverse -
above the fuse block on the passenger side
described in subsection 2. order of removal including the following
11 Engine control system - checking 2. Disconnect the accelerator cable from points
and adjustment the throttle linkage (where provided by
design) a) Install a new O-ring onto the manifold,
3. Having remembered the preliminary then install the throttle body and tighten
Examination position of the wires, squeeze the stopper its mounting screws securely.
1. If a malfunction occurs in the engine and disconnect the wires from the throttle b) Make sure the wire connectors are
management system, first make sure that the body (see illustration). correctly positioned and connected
wires of the entire system are securely 4. Loosen and unscrew the mounting bolts, securely.
connected and are not subject to corrosion. then remove the throttle body from the c) Finally, connect the accelerator cable
Make sure that the system malfunction is not exhaust manifold (see illustrations) Remove (where provided by the design), as
due to improper maintenance. that is, check the manifold O-ring. Use a new O-ring when described in subsection 3
that the air cleaner element is not dirty, the installing.
spark plugs are in good condition and have
the correct gaps, the engine cylinder
12 Throttle body -
compression readings are correct, and the removal and installation of
breather hoses are clean and show no signs ohc
of damage. Refer to Chapters 1A. 2Ai 5B for
more detailed information
2. If no such faults are found during these Installation
checks , the vehicle should be taken to an 5. Installation is carried out in the reverse -
authorized workshop or diagnostic technician order of removal, including the following
equipped with the appropriate diagnostic points:
equipment. The diagnostic equipment а) Install a new O-ring onto the manifold,
connector is located above the passenger then install the throttle body and tighten 12.3 Disconnect the wires from the throttle
side fuse box, into which a fault code locator its mounting screws securely. body components (1.1 liter engine)
or other suitable diagnostic equipment can б) Make sure the wire connectors are
be connected equipment (see illustration) By correctly positioned and connected
connecting a code detector or diagnostic securely.
equipment, the electronic device of the c) Finally, connect the accelerator cable
engine control system (as well as other (where provided by the design), as
various electronic units of the car) can be described in subsection 3
tested and stored faulty codes can be
restored . This allows you to quickly
determine the malfunction, eliminating the
need to test all components of the system
separately, wasting significant time and
risking damage to the electronic control
system unit
12.4b ...then remove the throttle body from

the manifold and remove the manifold O-ring
(1.1 liter engine)
Removal
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly as
2. Disconnect the accelerator cable from
3. .4a Unscrew the three (marked with the throttle linkage (where provided by
arrows) mounting bolts... design)
4А • Б Топливная и выхлопная системы - бензиновые двигатели
13.4 Squeeze the connector (marked with an

arrow) and disconnect the fuel line hose from
the fuel rail (1.1 and 1.4 liter engines)
13.11 Unscrew the two bolts (marked with 13.12 Unlock the clamp and remove the
arrows) and remove the fuel rail along with injector from the fuel rail (1.6-liter engine) and
the injectors from the manifold (1.6-liter the seals from the injectors. When installing,
engine) use new seals (see illustration)
13.7 Remove the seals from the injectors (1.1
8. Disconnect the wire(s) then release the
and 1.4 liter engines) 5. Loosen and unscrew the two bolts
clamp(s) and remove the corresponding
securing the fuel rail to the cylinder head and
injector(s) from the fuel rail Remove the
the nut securing the fuel rail to the manifold.
13 Engine management system Loosen the bolt securing the fuel rail center upper seals from the injectors When
installing, use new seals
components - bracket to the intake manifold. then remove
9. Installation is carried out in the reverse -
removal and installation the bracket (there are slots on the bracket to
facilitate removal) (see illustrations )
points:
Fuel rail and injectors 6. Disconnect the harness connector from
the injector, then disconnect the connector a) Install new seals on all injector
Note 1: Please take note of the warnings connectors.
from the rear of the exhaust manifold. Also
given in section 1 before starting operation.
disconnect the wires from the throttle body b) Lubricate the seals to make installation
Note 2: If you suspect an injector and position the manifold wires so that they easier, then carefully install the injectors
malfunction, first of all try to treat it with a will not obstruct the removal of the fuel rail and fuel rail into their original positions,
special cleaning compound , which can be 7. Carefully slide the fuel rail and injectors making sure the seals are not dislodged.
purchased at a network of auto stores. off the cylinder head, then remove them. With c) Finally, increase the pressure in the fuel
1.1 and 1.4 liter models them- system as described in subsection 7.
Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.
1. Remove the ignition coil as described in
Chapter 5B. 1.6- liter models
2. Disconnect the accelerator cable (where 10. Remove the intake manifold as
provided by the design) from the throttle body described in subsection 14.
rod, then remove the cable sheath from its 11. Unscrew the two bolts and remove the
rubber O-ring in the mounting bracket along fuel rail along with the injectors from the
with its stopper (see illustration 3.1) manifold (see illustration).
3. Remove the bolts/nuts and accelerator 12. Disconnect the wire(s), then release
cable bracket or manifold bracket from the the clamp(s) and remove the corresponding
manifold/cylinder head. injector(s) from the fuel rail. Remove the
4. Relieve the pressure in the fuel system injector seals. When installing, use new
as described in subsection 7, then compress
the connector and disconnect the fuel line 13.13 Install new seals on all connectors
hose on the right side of the fuel rail (see (marked with arrows) of the injectors (1.6-liter
illustration) engines)
13.5a Unscrew the ramp mounting bolts (1) 13.5b ..then loosen the bolt (marked with an
and nut (2)... arrow) and remove the central bracket (1.1
and 1.4 liter engines)
13.16 ...then unscrew the fastening screws

13.15 Disconnect the wire from the throttle (marked with arrows) and remove it from the 13.21 Unfasten the clamps and disconnect -
potentiometer... throttle body (1.1 liter engine) the wires from the electronic device
13.26 Отсоедините разъем провода

13.22 Remove the device from the battery (отмечен стрелкой) от шагового дви- remove the engine from the throttle body
case гателя регулировки оборотов холос- (1.1-liter engine)
13.27 Unscrew the mounting screws, then того хода (1.1 -литровый двигатель)
seals see illustration) stepper motor (see illustration )
system 27. Loosen and unscrew the mounting
order of removal, including the following Note: When installing a new electronic screws, then remove the engine from the
points: control system device, the vehicle will not be throttle body (see illustration ) If necessary,
able to operate until the device's immobilizer remove the throttle potentiometer to gain
a) Install new seals on all injector
is matched to the control system. This access to the lower engine bolt
connectors (see illustration).
procedure can only be performed using 28. Installation is carried out in the reverse
b) Lubricate the seals to make installation
special diagnostic equipment. Therefore, order of removal. Make sure the seals are in
easier, then carefully install the injectors
have this procedure performed by the good condition.
and fuel rail into their original positions,
manufacturer's representative or a qualified
making sure the seals are not dislodged.
technician.
c) Finally, increase the pressure in the fuel
system as described in subsection 7. 19. The electronic device is located in the
Start the engine and check for fuel leaks. battery housing on the left side of the engine
compartment.
Fuel pressure control 20. To facilitate access to the device.
remove the battery as described in Chapter
14. The fuel pressure regulator is an
5A
integral part of the fuel pump assembly and
21. Unfasten the clamps and disconnect -
is not supplied separately. Subsection 8
the wires from the electronic device ( see
provides a detailed description of the
illustration)
removal and installation operations
22. Unhook the lower mounting tabs of the
base plate and remove the plate with the
Throttle potentiometer device from the battery casing (see
Note: On 1.4 and 1.6 liter models, the throttle illustration)
valve potentiometer is an integral part of the 23. Unscrew the fastening bolts and
throttle body and is not supplied separately. remove the device from the base plate
15. Squeeze the fasteners and disconnect 24. Installation is carried out in the reverse
the wire from the throttle potentiometer (see order of removal. Make sure the wires are
illustration). connected correctly
16. Loosen and unscrew the two mounting
Stepper motor for idle speed
screws, then disconnect the potentiometer
from the throttle spindle and remove it from control
the vehicle (see illustration) Note: On 1.4 and 1 6-liter models, the
17. Installation is carried out in the reverse stepper motor is an integral part of the
order of removal. throttle body and is not supplied separately.
18. Make sure the potentiometer is aligned 25. The stepper motor is mounted at the
correctly with the throttle spindle. rear of the throttle body.
26. Disconnect the wire connector from the
Electronic engine control
а А «по Топливная и выхлопная системы - бензиновые двигатели
14 Intake manifold -
Note: Before starting work, read the

precautions given in subsection 1.
1.1 and 1.4 liter models
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly as
2. Remove the fuel rail and injectors as
13.30а Отсоедините провод, затем, described in subsection 13
выкрутив винт, снимите датчик дав- 13.30Ь .и 1 6-литровыйдвигатель 3. Disconnect the wire connectors from the
ления в коллекторе (отмечен стрел- throttle body components using the tabs. if
кой)(1.1 и 1.4-литровые двигатели)... they have not been disconnected first, then
Manifold pressure sensor engine control system receives vehicle unclip the wiring harness and move it away
speed data from wheel speed sensors from the manifold
29. THIS sensor is located at the front of
the intake manifold.
through the AB8 electronic control unit. 3.6- liter models
4. Remove the throttle body by the slides.
30. Disconnect the wire, then turn the Gas pedal position sensor as described in subsection 12
screw and remove the sensor from the 38. The sensor is an integral part of the All models
manifold ( see illustrations') pedal assembly (see section 4) 5. Loosen the clamps and disconnect the
brake booster pipe, then disconnect the
order of removal. Make sure that the sensor Knock sensor
valve pipe from the intake manifold (see
seal is in good condition. 39. Refer to Chapter 5B illustrations)
Refrigerant temperature sensor Air conditioning system 6. Disconnect all wire connectors from the
collector, remembering their original
32. The coolant temperature sensor is pressure sensor positions. Free the wires from all kinds of
screwed into the cooling system outlet pipe clamps and clamps.
40. The sensor is installed on the coolant
on the left of the cylinder head. Refer to 7. By pressing the button, disconnect the
pipe located on the right in the engine
Chapter 3, subsection 7 for removal and fuel line hose and move it away from the
compartment. When replacing the sensor, it
installation procedures. manifold .
is necessary to discharge and drain the air
Inlet air temperature sensor conditioning system (see Chapter 3),
the support bracket from the back side of the
33. This sensor is an integral part of the Throttle control motor 41. The manifold, where it is provided for by the
throttle body and is not supplied separately. throttle control motor (where provided by design.
design) is an integral part of the throttle 9. Unscrew the existing lock nuts and
Crankshaft position sensor body and is not supplied separately. remove the manifold from the engine -
34. The crankshaft position sensor is compartment. Remove the four seals. When
located on the face of the clutch housing. Gas pedal position sensor installing, use new seals (see illustrations)
35. Disconnect the sensor wire connector 42. The sensor is an integral part of the pedal
and unfasten the wire. Unscrew the fastening assembly (see subsection 4). Installation
bolt and remove the sensor and its bracket 10. Installation is carried out in the reverse
from the clutch housing (see illustrations) order of removal, including the following
36. Installation is carried out in the reverse points
order of removal. a) Make sure that the mating
the surfaces of the manifold and cylinder
Vehicle speed sensor head are dry and clean,
37. On models not equipped with AB5, the
speed sensor is an integral part of the
speedometer drive. Refer to Chapter 7A for
removal and installation procedures. On
other models, the electronic device of the
13.35a Disconnect the wire connector , then
unscrew the fastening bolt (marked with an
arrow)...
13.35b ...and remove the crankshaft position

sensor from the front of the clutch housing
Топливная и выхлопная системы - бензиновые двигатели 4А • и
arrows) of the heat-resistant shield...

6. Remove the nuts securing the exhaust
pipe/catalytic converter to the manifold, then
remove the bolt securing the exhaust pipe to
its mounting bracket. Disconnect the front
pipe from the manifold and remove the
gasket.
7. Unscrew the lock nuts securing the
manifold to the cylinder head. Remove the
manifold from the engine compartment and
seals
remove its gasket; ki)
14.5a Disconnect the tube (marked with an
14.55 ...and disconnect the valve tube
arrow) of the vacuum booster...
(marked with an arrow) from the manifold -
Installation
(1.6-liter engine) 8. Installation is carried out in the reverse
points
а) Examine all exhaust manifold struts for
signs of damage and corrosion; remove
all traces of corrosion and repair or
replace damaged struts.
b) Make sure that the mating surfaces of the
manifold and cylinder head are smooth
and clean, then install new gasket(s)
under the manifold. Tighten the lock nuts
14.9a Nuts (marked with arrows) of the
c) Connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold
intake manifold (1.1 and 1.4 liter engines)
14.95 Mark the position of the central bracket according to subsection 16.
(marked with an arrow) on the 1.6-liter б) If necessary, replace the oil level dipstick
then install new seals in their recesses
engine tube seal.
in the manifold (see illustration). Install
the manifold and tighten its retaining but in (lava 5L 16 Exhaust system -
nuts to the specified torque.
2. Loosen and remove the securing screws general information, removal and
5) Ensure that the associated hoses are d*
and then remove the casing from the top of installation
correctly positioned and that their
the exhaust manifold. It may be necessary to
clamps are securely tightened (where
remove the engine eye from the left end of
the cylinder head and, by unscrewing the general information
necessary).
c) Check that the wire connectors are
1. On new car models, the exhaust system
correctly positioned and connected bolt, remove the dipstick tube to measure the
oil level (see illustrations). consists of two parts: the downpipe with the
securely.
3. Put the car on the handbrake, then lift the catalytic converter and the rest of the system,
6) Install the accelerator cable (where it is
front of the car and install axle supports ( see consisting of a muffler and exhaust pipe. The
designed for use ) as described in
"Lifting the car with a jack and installing - downpipe is attached to the manifold with
subsection 3.
supports") Unscrew the bolts and remove the nuts and bolts, and the two subsequent
sections of pipes are attached by a spring
15 Exhaust manifold - removal and engine protection (where provided by the hinge to compensate for movements in the
installation design)
4. On some models, a second heat shield system
Removal is installed on the back of the manifold above
the oil filter. Unscrew the bolts and remove
1. Disconnect । e battery like.
the heat-resistant shield
inventory
5. Disconnect the lambda zone wires yes
15.25 ...and the bolts of the dipstick tube

for measuring the oil level
7) .10 Check installation of new manifold 5. .2a Unscrew the bolts (marked with
2. The intermediate and rear sections New sections have a clamping sleeve to
(muffler and exhaust pipe) must be replaced connect to the downpipe.
during service, but the downpipe must be cut
with a hacksaw to install the new section.
4А • Б Топливная и выхлопная системы - бензиновые двигатели
3. The system is supported along its entire axle and remove it from the rear of the is fully engaged by the sleeve. Tighten the
length by rubber pads vehicle clamp sleeve nut and mounting bracket nut
4. To remove the entire system or a - 12. Installation is carried out in the reverse securely .
separate part of it, lift the front or rear of the order of removal, including the following
car and install axle supports (see “Raising - Muffler/exhaust pipe
points 25. If the muffler/exhaust pipe is installed,
the car and installing supports-”) Or place the
a) Check the rubber cushions for signs of remove the nuts securing the
vehicle on a viewing hole or inclined planes.
wear or damage and replace them as muffler/exhaust pipe mounting bracket to the
When completely removing the system ,
necessary. underbody of the vehicle. Loosen the
lower the rear axle beam to provide space to
b) Before tightening the exhaust system clamping sleeve nuts, remove the
remove the system from the rear of the
fasteners, make sure that the rubber muffler/exhaust pipe from the sleeve and
vehicle. Take this into account when placing
cushions are correctly positioned and remove the pipe from under the vehicle
the vehicle for repair.
that there is sufficient play between the 26. Installation is carried out in the reverse
Removal and installation exhaust system and the bottom of the order of removal. In this case, check the
vehicle. rubber cushions for signs of wear or damage
Downpipe/catalytic converter c) Install the rear suspension springs as and, if necessary, replace 27. If the
Note: The catalytic converter is an integral described in Chapter 10. muffler/exhaust pipe is to be installed on the
part of the exhaust pipe. original system, determine the position of the
Intermediate pipe cut on the original pipe. The cutting location
5. Determine the location of the lambda
13. If the intermediate pipe is installed, is located in front of the rear axle and is
probe wire installed at the outlet of the
loosen and remove the two nuts securing the marked by four round notches on the pipe.
catalytic converter to its connector.
intermediate pipe flange to the down pipe. 28. Use a hacksaw to cut the pipe
Disconnect the wire and free the wire from all
Remove the spring cups, springs, bolts and according to the appropriate marks.
clamps and fasteners so that the sensor is
free for removal along with the exhaust pipe bearings, 29. Unscrew the nuts securing the
6. Loosen and remove the two nuts 14. Remove the nuts securing the muffler/mounting bracket to the bottom and
securing the downpipe flange to the intermediate pipe mounting brackets to the remove the pipe from under the car
underbody of the vehicle. Loosen the nuts of
intermediate/rear pipe. Remove the spring
the clamping sleeve, remove the
cups, spring bolts and BEARINGS.
intermediate pipe from the sleeve and
7. Remove the nuts holding the downpipe
remove it from under the car,
flange to the manifold and the single bolt
holding the downpipe to its mounting bracket. 15. Installation is carried out in the reverse
Separate the flange connection, remove the order of removal. At the same time, check the
gasket and remove the exhaust pipe from rubber cushions for signs of wear or damage
under the car and, if necessary, replace.
8. Installation is carried out in the reverse 16. If the intermediate pipe is installed on
order of removal. Make sure. that the mating the original system, determine the position of
surfaces of the flanges are clean and install the cut point on the downpipe. The cut point
a new gasket is located in front of the rear axle and is
Entire system (except downpipe) marked by four round notches on the pipe.
17. Cut the pipe using a hacksaw according
9. When completely removing the system,
to the corresponding marks.
lower the rear axle beam to provide space for
18. Loosen and unscrew the nuts securing
removing the system from the rear of the
the intake and intermediate pipe flanges
vehicle. To do this, remove the rear
Remove the spring cups, springs, bolts and
suspension springs as described in Chapter
bearings
10 and lower the axle beam as far as
19. Unscrew the nuts securing the
possible.
intermediate pipe mounting brackets to the
bottom of the car and remove the pipe from
under the car
20. Check the rubber cushions for signs of
wear or damage. if necessary, replace them.
If their condition is satisfactory , install
supports on a new intermediate pipe.
21. Place a mark with a pencil on the pipe
installed on the car at a distance of 40 mm
from the cut site . Place the new clamping
sleeve onto the exhaust pipe up to this mark.
Install the fastening bolts and nuts and pre-
16.10 Fastening nuts (marked with arrows) of tighten them. just to fix the bushing in its
the exhaust system flange connection location
22. Connect the new intermediate pipe to
10. Loosen and screw in the two nuts the clamping sleeve then tighten the bracket
securing the intermediate/rear pipe flange to securing nuts by hand
the intake tube (see illustration) Remove the 23. Install the flange bearings , springs,
spring cups, springs, bolts and bearings. and bolt cups, then install the nuts and
11. Unscrew the nuts securing the exhaust tighten them securely.
system mounting brackets to the underbody 24. Make sure the clamp sleeve is still on
the pre-made mark and the intermediate pipe
of the vehicle. Lift the system over the rear
30. Check the rubber cushions for signs of sleeve. Securely tighten the clamp nuts and
wear or damage and, if necessary, replace mounting bracket nuts
them if they are in satisfactory condition . Heat resistant shield(s)
install supports on the new muffler/exhaust
34. Heat-resistant shields are attached to
pipe
the bottom with a variety of nuts and
31. Make a mark with a pencil on the pipe
fasteners (see illustration) When removing
the shield to gain access to the associated
from the cut location. Place the new clamping
components located behind it, remove the
sleeve on the intermediate pipe up to this
mark. Install the fastening bolts and nuts and lock nuts and/or disconnect the fasteners
pre-tighten them so as to only fix the sleeve (unscrew the center screw, then remove the
in its location. fasteners) and move the shield from its
35. 34 Fastening nuts (marked with
32. Connect the new muffler/exhaust pipe location. On
arrows) of the heat-resistant shield for the
to the clamp bushing, then install the parts of the exhaust system
mounting bracket lock nuts
33. Make sure that the clamping sleeve is On some models, it is necessary to remove
still on the pre- made mark and that the the exhaust system supports to provide the
muffler/exhaust pipe is fully engaged in the clearance necessary to remove the heat
shield
A A »14 For notes
Chapter 4 Part B:
Fuel and exhaust systems - diesel engines
Subsection number
Content Engine control system components check, removal and
Subsection number installation ........................................................................ eleven
General;.” information and system operation
1
I Intake manifold - removal and installation 12
Diesel high pressure injection system - special information 2 Exhaust manifold - removal and installation. 13
L-living system filling and pumping 3 Turbocharger - description and precautions 14 Turbocharger -
Air cleaner assembly and inlet pipes - removal and installation 4 removal, inspection and installation 15
Fuel supply control pedal - removal and installation 5 Fuel Intermediate heat exchanger - removal and installation 16 Exhaust
consumption sensor, removal and installation 6 system -
Fuel tank and cooler - removal and installation 7 High pressure fuel general information, replacement of components 17
pump - removal and installation 8 Tol; high pressure pipe - removal Replacing the filter element
and installation 9 Fuel Injectors - removal and installation 10 air purifier ... .... see Chapter 1B
Replacing the fuel filter see Chapter
1B
Draining water from the fuel filter sump see Chapter 1B

Are common
!type NO system) (Diesel high pressure injection)
with full electronic control, direct injection and
turbocharger
Modifications
Дви а’ели с 8 клапанами 31етепзСЮ802
Двигатели с 16 клапанами ... . . Ое1р1п С6
Порядок работы цилиндров Рабочее давление 1-3-4-2 (Первый цилиндр со стороны маховика)
топливной системы..................................................... 1600 бар
Топливный насос высокого давления !ип
Двигатели с 8 клапанами ...................................
Двигатели с 16 клапанами . ..... 31етеп5
Направление вращения .......................................... . . Ое1рГн
по часовой стрелке, рассматривая со стороны
Форсунки звездочки
Турбонагнетатель электромагнитные
Давление наддува (приблизительно) ..
1 бар при 3000 оборотах в минуту
High pressure fuel pipe mounting bolts 23
bolt . . . ...... .. 5
Catalytic Converter Clamp Nuts ................................................................ 25
Speed/Crankshaft Position Sensor .. ......................................................... 5
Valve cover bolts .............................................................................................. 10
Exhaust manifold nuts 20
Fuel injector clamping bolts/nuts .......................................................... . 25
Fuel line connection nuts* ............................................................................... 23
High pressure fuel pump mounting bolts ......................................................... 23
High pressure fuel pump sprocket nut. ... 50
Intake manifold mounting bolts (16-valve engines) 10
Knock sensor...................................... .... ................................................ 20
Turbocharger mounting nuts ........................................... ........................ 25
Turbocharger oil supply pipe housing bolts.
8 valve engines ............................................. ........ .............................. 20
Engines with 16 valves. ... ........ ..................................... thirty
'These tightening forces are used when using a special adapter from the manufacturer - see subsection 2
АВ • г Топливная и выхлопная системы - дизельные двигатели
1 General information and system remains constant even though the fuel System components
comes out of the tube every time. when one
operation High pressure fuel pump
of the injectors is working. The pressure
valve on the high pressure fuel pump further The high pressure fuel pump is installed on
ensures that fuel pressure is maintained the engine in the same place . the same as a
The fuel system consists of a fuel tank within specified limits. conventional spool-type plunger pump. The
located at the rear of the vehicle, a fuel flow The pressure valve is controlled by the - pump is driven by a toothed belt at a
sensor, a fuel filter with a water separator, an electronic engine management system. frequency equal to half the crankshaft speed
under-vehicle fuel cooler, a fully When the valve opens, fuel returns from the and is lubricated by the fuel it pumps.
electronically controlled high pressure diesel pump back to the tank through the fuel return The high pressure pump consists of three
injection system and a turbocharger. lines and the pressure in the tube drops. To radially mounted pistons and cylinders. The
The exhaust system has a classic layout, estimate the valve opening pressure by the pistons are driven by an eccentric cam
but the latest modifications feature an electronic system, the pressure in the tube is mounted on the pump drive spindle. When
unregulated catalytic converter and an measured by a fuel pressure sensor the pistons move down, fuel enters the
exhaust gas re-combustion system. The engine management system controls cylinders through the intake valves. When
The HOT system (known as a spool-type the injectors using electromagnetic pulses. the piston reaches bottom dead center, the
fuel pump) gets its name from the fact that Each injector injects fuel directly into the intake valves close and, as the piston moves
fuel is supplied to all injectors from a common corresponding combustion chamber. In up, the fuel is compressed. When the
high-pressure tube. Instead of using an in- practice, a high pressure fuel system is more pressures in the pump and the high pressure
line or plunger-type fuel pump that supplies efficient than a conventional fuel system in fuel pipe are equalized, the exhaust valve
fuel directly to each injector, a spool type fuel terms of precision and flexibility. For opens and fuel enters the tube When the
pump is used. high pressure fuel pump example, combustion during the main piston reaches top dead center, the exhaust
creating very high pressure (1600 bar at high injection process can be improved by pre- valve closes and the cycle restarts. The
engine speed) in the high pressure pipe Fuel injecting a small amount of fuel. presence of several cylinders eliminates
is kept in the pipe under constant pressure by fluctuations and instability of the helium
a valve Each injector is supplied with high Subsystem pressure.
pressure fuel from the pipe and the injectors electronic control
themselves are controlled directly by an The electronic control subsystem consists
electronic control system motor using of the following components.
electromagnetic pulses. a) Electronic control device for the engine
In addition to the various sensors used on management system.
models with a conventional high pressure b) Speed/crank position sensor for that
fuel pump . The fuel pressure system also shaft.
has a fuel pressure sensor. This sensor c) Camshaft position sensor
allows the engine control unit to maintain the P) Gas pedal position sensor.
required fuel pressure using the pressure f) Coolant temperature sensor.
regulating valve. I) Fuel temperature sensor
e) Atmospheric pressure sensor (on engines
System operation
with 8 valves, integrated with the
In order to describe the operation of an electronic control system).
entire system . Let's divide its components b) Manifold pressure sensor (engines with 16
into three subsystems, a low pressure
valves)
subsystem, a high pressure subsystem and
1) Yes detonation sensor (engine gels with
an electronic control subsystem
16 valves).
Air meter.
Low pressure subsystem
k) Fuel pressure sensor
The low pressure subsystem consists of l) Fuel injectors m) Fuel pressure valve, o)
the following components: a) Fuel tank Fuel heating control unit o) Exhaust gas
b) Fuel cooler. recirculation valve (EGR).
c) Fuel heating (not on all models )
Information from various post sensors falls
P) Fuel filter/water separator, e) Low into the control system, where they are
pressure fuel lines. processed and evaluated. The unit contains
The low pressure subsystem (fuel supply electronic cards that allow you to calculate
system ) supplies clean fuel to the high the optimal amount of fuel supplied before
pressure subsystem injection and even the amount of fuel for
preliminary and subsequent injections for
High pressure subsystem each injector in any mode । (engine bots
The high pressure subsystem consists of Additionally, the electronic unit performs
the following components: a) High pressure monitoring and diagnostic functions. Any
fuel pump with pressure regulating valve faults in the system are stored in the unit’s
b) High pressure fuel pipe, c) Fuel injectors memory, which allows them to be quickly and
P) High pressure fuel lines accurately identified using appropriate
After passing through the fuel filter, the diagnostic equipment (for example, a fault
fuel enters the high pressure pump, then the code reader^
pump supplies the fuel to the high pressure
pipe. Since diesel fuel has a certain elasticity,
the pressure in the high pressure tube
Топливная и выхлопная системы - дизельные двигатели 4В • 3
heating a continuous flow of fuel Since the the injectors to the tank through the return pressure created in the high-pressure fuel
pump supplies enough fuel to operate the fuel line. The injectors operate on the pipe
vehicle at full load, excess fuel will be principle of a hydraulic servomotor; the force b) Closing - the electromagnet is turned off ,
generated at idle and partial load modes. created in the injector by the fuel pressure is the valve spring presses the valve ball to
Excess fuel flows from the High pressure added to the force of the electromagnet, its seat, and the pressure in the control
subsystem to the Low pressure subsystem (a which by itself does not create sufficient force valve compartment and in the nozzle tip is
tank) through the valve, controlling pressure. to lift the injector needle. The injector the same. The force on the valve plunger
The pump has a device that turns off one operates using five autonomous sources of and on the tip needle closes the nozzle.
of its cylinders when the maximum injection force that directly affect the operation of the After this, all forces are in balance and the
of fuel oil is not required. providing the injector. nozzle remains in a static state awaiting
greatest efficiency and eliminating a) The tip spring presses the injector the next injection.
unnecessary fuel loss. When this device needle against the seat at the base of Electronic engine control unit and
operates, a solenoid-controlled needle holds the injector, preventing fuel from sensors
the inlet valve of the corresponding cylinder entering the combustion chamber. The electronic unit and sensors are
open during pumping, preventing fuel from b) In the valve at the top of the injector, the described above in this subsection, see
being compressed valve spring presses the valve ball, “Under the electronic control system”
High pressure fuel pipe preventing the control valve from
The tube is sometimes called a fuel opening. Fuel is not able to enter the fuel 2 Diesel high pressure injection
return line.
1k<umulator. it acts by accumulating fuel as system - special information
it prevents pressure fluctuations. Fuel enters c) Before injection, the electromagnet
creates a force that overcomes the force
the tube from the high pressure fuel pump.
of the valve spring, and the valve ball Warnings and Precautions
Each injector is independently connected to
rises from its seat . This force is the 1. Strict precautions must be taken
a tube. A fuel pressure sensor is installed in
injection starting force. When the valve when handling the system, especially when
the tube, and the tube itself is directly
opens, fuel enters the control valve dealing with the high pressure subsystem.
connected to the fuel supply valve in the
compartment. Before performing any operations on the fuel
high-pressure pump
b) The fuel pressure in the control valve system, refer to the safety precautions listed
Pressure control valve compartment creates a force on the in the “Safety First” section at the beginning
This valve is sealed electronically and valve plunger, which complements the of this manual and to the following additional
controls the pressure in the fuel system. The force of the valve needle spring. information
valve is an integral part of the high pressure f) A small groove at the lower end of the • Do not work on the high pressure fuel
fuel pump and cannot be removed nozzle needle ensures that the fuel in system unless you are competent in this
When excessive fuel pressure is created, the control valve compartment creates a area; be prepared with all necessary
the valve opens and fuel flows back into the force acting on the nozzle needle. equipment.
tank. When pressure drops, the valve closes, When these forces are balanced, the
causing the pump to build up pressure injector is in a static position, but when the
By its type, the valve is a ball valve electromagnet is turned on, the force
controlled by electromagnetic pulses. The necessary to lift the nozzle needle and inject
ball is pressed against its seat by a powerful fuel into the combustion chamber is created.
spring and the attraction of an electric The injector operating cycle is divided into
magnet. The attraction of the magnet directly four phases.
depends on the pulse generated by the a) Static position - all forces are in
electronic engine control system. The balance. The atomizer needle closes
desired pressure is maintained by changing the tip hole. and the valve spring
the current on the electromagnet. Pressure presses the valve ball to its seat
fluctuations com! spring loaded
b) Opening - the electromagnet creates a
Fuel pressure sensor force that opens the tip and ensures the
This sensor is installed in the high injection process. The force of the
pressure fuel pipe and transmits fuel electromagnet allows the valve ball to rise
pressure information to the engine control from its seat. Fuel from the control valve
unit. compartment flows back into the tank
through the return fuel line. When the
Fuel burner valve opens, the pressure in its
The injectors on the engines in question compartment decreases and the force on
are installed on the same principle as on the plunger decreases. However, due to
conventional diesel engines. The injectors the presence of an inlet throttle, the
are controlled by electromagnetic pulses pressure on the spray needle remains
from the engine control system unit. The fuel constant. The force generated in the
enters the injectors under the same pressure control valve compartment is sufficient to
that is created in the high pressure fuel pipe. lift the injector nozzle needle and ensure
The injectors are manufactured with very the start of the injection process.
high precision. c) Injection - within a few milliseconds, the
Fuel enters the injectors from the high electromagnet voltage decreases from
pressure fuel pipe through the intake valve the value at start-up to the value when the
and throttle, then an electromagnet lifts the injector is in a static position. In this case,
injector nozzle needle from its seat and the atomizer is completely open, and fuel
injection occurs. Excess fuel is directed from enters the combustion chamber under the
safe tools and equipment , familiarize 6. After completing repairs to the high cleaner housing and its brackets.
yourself with comprehensive safety
precautions.
• Before working on the high pressure fuel
system, at least 30 seconds must pass after
the engine is turned off to allow the pressure
in the system to decrease.
• Never work on the high pressure fuel
system while the engine is running.
• Keep a safe distance from possible
sources of fuel leaks, especially when
starting the engine after performing repair
work. A system leak can occur in the form of
pressure fuel system, manufacturers 3.1Ь и двигателях с 16 клапанами
a jet of fuel at very high pressure, which can
recommend using a leak detection 3. Undo the clamp and disconnect
cause serious injury.
compound. This composition is a powder
• Never put your hands or any part of your
applied to the fuel line connections and
body near a leak on the high pressure fuel
becomes white when dried. A leak in the
system.
system will cause the powder to darken at the
• Do not use steam equipment or
leak site
compressed air to clean the engine or fuel
7. When tightening supporting components
system components.
and connections, the specified tightening
Procedures and information torques must be strictly observed. This is
2. When working on the fuel system, - especially important when tightening fuel line
cleanliness must be maintained. This connections. When using a torque wrench,
includes the work area, the person doing the two proprietary adapters called crow's feet
work, and the components that are exposed. are used for this purpose. Similar adapters
3. If any components of the fuel system are can also be purchased at car stores (see
not exposed , clean them with an appropriate illustration}
degreaser. Such degreasing products can be
purchased from a branded network. Or use
3.3 Loosen (marked with an arrow) the
brake fluid. Cleanliness is of particular
clamp and disconnect the air inlet pipe from
importance when dealing with the following
the turbocharger (engines with 8 valves)
components of the fuel system:
a) Fuel filter.
b) High pressure fuel pump, c) High
pressure fuel pipe, b) Fuel injectors.
f) High pressure fuel lines.
8. 7 Two crow's foot adapters required for

tightening fuel line connections
3 Fuel system -
filling and bleeding
1. The fuel system between the tank and

the high pressure pump must be
2.4 Typical set of plastic plugs, plugs and disconnected to fill it. Filling is done using the
caps for insulating disconnected fuel lines manual primer pump until resistance appears
and components
on its lever (see illustrations} On engines with
1. 1a Location (marked with an arrow ) of 16 valves, to gain access to the manual
the manual booster pump on engines with 8 primer pump, remove the plastic engine
valves. cover
2. After pumping, turn the starter until
4. After disconnecting fuel lines or
resistance appears on the pump lever to start
components, the connection or hole should
the engine. If the engine does not start on the
be immediately plugged to prevent dirt or
first try, restart after fifteen seconds.
other foreign bodies from entering. To do
this, purchase a package of plastic plugs and 4 Air cleaner assembly and inlet
caps of various sizes (see illustration} pipes - removal and installation
Suitable covers for insulating components
such as fuel lines, injectors and wires can be
obtained by cutting off the fingers of rubber Removing the air cleaner and
gloves. intake pipes 8-valve engines
5. new pipes must be used during
installation .
2. fuel pump located to the right of the air
1. 10 Remove the air deflector by turning

3.4 Disconnect the air meter wire 4.5 Remove the two screws (marked with the plastic clip (marked with arrows) 90' (8
connector (A), then remove the mounting arrows) of the air cleaner housing (engines valve engines)
screw (B) (8-valve engines) with 8 valves)
2. 16 Unhook the central part of the intake

4.11 Press in the central part of the plastic air duct from the support (marked with an
rivet (marked with an arrow), then remove the 1. 13 Remove the plastic casing from the arrow) (engines with 16 valves)
entire air inlet pipe from the turbocharger by engine (engines with 16 valves )
the rivet (engines with 8 valves) (see
9. To remove the intake pipes, first remove 13. Disconnect the battery (see Chapter
illustration)
the air cleaner as described above. 5A). then remove the plastic casing from the
4. Disconnect the spirit meter wire
10. Remove the air deflector by rotating the engine. The casing is secured with rubber
connector. then unscrew the screw securing
plastic clip 90" Remove the deflector from the seals, which should be pulled up to remove
the air meter to the air inlet pipe (see
face of the intake manifolds (see illustration) (see illustration)
illustration)
11. Press in the center portion of the plastic 14. Remove the air deflector by turning the
5. Remove the two screws securing the air
rivet securing the intake manifold system to plastic lock 90". Remove the deflector from
cleaner housing to the valve cover (see
the front panel, then remove the entire rivet the front side of the inlet pipes (see
illustration).
(see illustration) illustration 4.10)
6. Disconnect the breather hose from the
12. Lift the front portion of the intake manifold 15. Push in the center portion of the plastic
valve cover, then lift the air cleaner assembly
system to unhook the mounting lugs from the rivet securing the intake pipe system to the
up to disengage the rear support tabs from
face of the battery housing. Remove the rear front panel, then remove the entire rivet (see
the rubber pads.
part of the inlet pipe system from under the illustration 4.11).
7. Loosen the clamp and disconnect the air
fuel filter and remove the inlet pipe system 16. Lift the face of the intake manifold
inlet pipe from the base of the air cleaner
from the engine compartment. To create a system to release the mounting tabs from the
housing from the rear of the air cleaner
decent clearance, remove the fuel filter face of the battery housing. At the same time,
assembly
mounting bolts and move it slightly away from unhook the center
8. Remove the air cleaner assembly from
the mounting bracket.
the engine, disconnecting the wire
connectors and hose clamps that prevent the
air cleaner from being removed.
4.18 Loosen the clamps and disconnect

the intake air duct from the turbocharger and
4.17b ...then remove the air intake duct air meter (engines with 16 valves)
from the air cleaner elbow (16 valve engines)
4.17a Disconnect the brake booster hose
from the rear of the intake air duct...
4.20 Press the retaining keys and move the

4.19 Disconnect the wire connector from manual fuel pump, releasing the air cleaner 4.21 Remove the three screws and lift the air
the air meter (engines with 16 valves ) (engines with 16 valves) cleaner cover (engines with 16 valves)
4.23a Raise the air base 4.23b Separate the two components of the
air purifier, then unfasten the air purifier air cleaner base and remove the front part
4.22 Remove the air cleaner support assembly using the slots on the sides of the
components inside its base (engines with 16 and then the rear (16 valve engines)
base (engines with 16 valves)
valves) the intake air intake mouth from the 21. Unscrew the three screws from the front
support located in front of the fuel filter (see Removing the resonator
securing the air cleaner cover to its base. Lift
illustration) the air cleaner cover together with the air - air intake
17. Disconnect the brake booster rod from meter by unhooking the mounting lugs in its
the rear of the intake air duct, then remove
8 valve engines
rear part and remove the cover (see 24. Loosen the clamp and disconnect the
the air duct from the air cleaner elbow and illustration) Remove the filter element,
remove it from the engine compartment (see turbocharger exhaust air duct from the intake
remembering its original position. manifold (see illustration)
illustrations) 18. Loosen the clamps and 22. Remove the air cleaner support 25. Release the smaller diameter
push the intake air intake from the components inside its base ( see illustration) refrigerant hose from the clamps at the front
turbocharger and air meter (see illustration) 23. Lift the air cleaner base to disengage of the resonator.
19. Disconnect the wire connector from the the lower mounting tabs, then unfasten the
air meter (see illustration) 26. Unscrew the bolt securing the -
latches on the sides of the air cleaner base. resonator to the valve cover and the bolt
20. Using a small screwdriver , press the
Separate the two components of the air securing the resonator to the output flange of
keys securing the manual fuel pump bracket
cleaner base and remove its front part, and the turbocharger (see illustration)
onto the front side of the air cleaner housing
then the back (see illustration) 27. Rotate the right edge of the torus
(see illustration ) Move the manual fuel pump
forward, releasing the air resonator up, unhooking it from the stand on
the turbocharger flange and remove the air
intake resonator from the engine (see
illustration) Remove the O-ring
4.24 Ослабьте хомут (отмечен стрел- 4.27... поверните правый край резона-
кой) и отсоедините выпускной возду- 4.26 Выкрутите болты (отмечены тора вверх, отцепляя его от стойки
ховод турбонагнетателя от впускного стрелками) крепления... (отмечена стрелкой) на выходном
коллектора (двигатели с 8 клапанами) фланце резонатора (двигатели с 8
клапанами)
4.29 Loosen the retaining clamps and ) securing the resonator to the turbocharger
disconnect the smaller diameter coolant output flange (engines with 16 valves)
hose and the resonator (engines with 16
valves)

air intake of the intermediate heat exchanger
on the right side of the resonator
29. Loosen the fixing clamps and
disconnect the smaller diameter refrigerant
hose and the resonator (see illustration )
30. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the
4.32 Lift the right edge of the resonator to 4.33 Turn the right edge of the resonator
exhaust gas blower of the turbocharger ( see
free the resonator seal from its support post
illustration) upward, unhooking it from the stand (marked
(16-valve engines)
31. Unscrew the bolt securing the resonator with an arrow) on the output flange of the
to the turbocharger output flange (see
7 Fuel tank and cooler - removal and turbocharger (engines with 16 valves) for
illustration) installation direct and reverse fuel supply. Prepare for
32. Using a screwdriver or similar tool, lift fuel spillage and plug the coolant hoses and
the right edge of the resonator to release the connections . preventing dirt from getting
resonator seal from its support post (see Fuel tank inside (see illustration}
illustration). Refer to Chapter 4A.
33. Rotate the right end of the resonator - Installation
up, unhooking it from the strut on the Cooler 4. Installation is carried out in the reverse -
turbocharger flange, and remove the air Removal order of removal.
intake resonator from the engine (see
1. The fuel cooler is located on the right 8 High pressure fuel pump -
illustration) Remove the O-ring
under the car. Raise the rear of the car with removal and installation
Installation a jack and install it on axle supports (see
34. Installation is carried out in the reverse Warning: Before starting work, read the
supports”)
order of removal. Examine seals and clamps
for wear and damage and, if necessary,
replace
2. Working under the car, unscrew the two
lock nuts and slide the cooler out of the
A information contained in
subsection 2.
mounting recess (see illustration) Note: When installing, use only a new
5 Fuel control pedal - removal and 3. Press the locking buttons and disconnect
the hoses from the cooler
fuel hose connecting the pump and the
high pressure pipe.
installation
5. 3 Press the lock button ( marked with an
Refer to Chapter 4A arrow) and disconnect the direct and return
fuel supply hose from the cooler
6 Flow sensor
fuel - removal and installation
The procedures for removing and

installing the fuel flow sensor are the same
as those described in Chapter 4A,
subsection 8 for the fuel pump,
except that on diesel engines we are
talking only about the sensor
4.30 Disconnect the vacuum hose from

the exhaust gas supercharger of the non-
turbocharger (engines with 16 valves)
7.2 Unscrew the two nuts (marked with

arrows) securing the fuel cooler
4.31 Unscrew the bolt (marked with an arrow
АВ • по Топливная и выхлопная системы - дизельные двигатели
8.11a Unscrew the two screws (marked with bracket (see illustration) exhaust gas recirculation pipe to the intake
8.4 Зафиксируйте вторым гаечным

8.3 Сожмите соединительный разъем ключом соединитель насоса, отвинчи- 8.7 Передние монтажные болты (от-
(отмечен стрелкой) и отсоедините вая соединительную гайку топливоп- мечены стрелками) топливного насоса
шланги прямой и обратной подачи ровода от трубки высокого давления к высокого давления
топлива от насоса (двигатели с 8 насосу (двигатели с 8 клапанами)
клапанами)
arrows) securing the exhaust gas Caution: The high pressure fuel pump is manifold and the bolt securing the pipe to the
recirculation pipe to the intake manifold. manufactured with extreme precision and rear of the cylinder head (see illustrations).
should not be disassembled. Do not unscrew 12. Remove the clamp securing the -
Removal the fuel line connector from the rear of the exhaust gas recirculation pipe to the
8 valve engines pump or attempt to remove the sensor, fuel recirculation valve. Cut off the original fixing
pressure control valve, or shaft seal. Spare clamp, if it remains in its location, when
parts for the pump are not supplied installing, use a new clamp, which can be
2. Perform the following operations
separately and if the pump malfunctions, the purchased from the company's network
described in Chapter 2B
entire pump must be replaced. along with the clamping screw. If a clamp
a) Remove the valve cover.
screw is installed, unscrew it and remove the
b) Remove the drive timing belt . After
clamp from the pipe. Remove the
removing the timing belt, temporarily
recirculation pipe from the rear of the engine
install the right engine mount without fully
{see. illustration) Remove the O-ring from the
tightening the bolts.
end of the pipe 13. Unscrew the fastening
c) Remove the fuel pump sprocket.
bolts and nuts, then remove the support
3. Squeeze the connector and disconnect bracket
the direct and return fuel supply hoses from
the pump (see illustration) Plug the pump and
hose openings to prevent dirt from falling in
4. Thoroughly clean the high pressure fuel
line connectors on the pump and high - 8.13 Unscrew the securing bolts and nuts,
pressure fuel pipe. Use a double-sided then remove the air cleaner support bracket
wrench to unscrew the nuts connecting the (engines with 16 valves)
high-pressure fuel line to the fuel pipe and 8.12 Remove the clamp securing the exhaust
pump. Use a second wrench to secure the gas recirculation pipe to the recirculation
pump connector by unscrewing the valve and remove the pipe (engines with 16
connection nut (see illustration) After valves)
removing the high pressure fuel line hose ,
plug or insulate the exposed connectors to Engines with 1 to 6 valves
prevent dirt from entering Note that a new 8. Disconnect the battery (see Chapter 5A).
hose will be required during installation 9. Remove the air cleaner assembly and
8.11b ...and the bolt (marked with an arrow) inlet air duct as described in subsection 4.
securing the pipe to the rear of the cylinder 10. Perform the following operations
head (engines with 16 valves) of the high described in Chapter 2B
pressure fuel line 5. Disconnect the wire
connectors from the pump , remembering a) Remove the drive timing belt . After
their original location. 6. Unscrew the bolts removing the timing belt, temporarily
and nuts and remove the support bracket install the right engine mount without fully
from the rear of the pump. tightening the bolts.
7. Remove the three front mounting bolts b) Remove the fuel pump sprocket.
and remove the pump from its support 11. Remove the two screws securing the
Chapter 2B
3. Thoroughly clean the adjacent area of
the inlet and outlet fuel lines of the high
pressure pipe. Unscrew the nuts connecting
the high pressure fuel line with the fuel pipe
and pump with a double-sided wrench.
Secure the pump connector with a second
wrench by unscrewing the connecting nut
(see illustration 8.4 ) After removing the high
pressure fuel hose, plug or insulate the
1. 15 High pressure fuel line connector exposed connectors. preventing dirt from
connecting pump to fuel pipe (A) and fuel line 8.17 Unscrew the rear mounting bolt (marked entering Please note that a new high
clamp bolt (B) ( 16 valve engines) pressure fuel line hose will be required during
with an arrow) securing the pump to the
installation
air cleaner mat from the rear cylinder head support bracket ( engines with 16 valves) and 4. Repeat the procedure on the fuel lines
(see. the pump mount, tightening the bolts/nut to from the fuel pipe to the injectors. Using a
illustration) the specified torque. second wrench, secure the injector
14. hypochondriac and 21. Remove the plugs from the fuel line connectors (see illustration) Do not allow
otso connectors on the high pressure fuel pipe these connectors to move. Remembering the
connect the direct and return fuel supply and pump. Install the new high pressure fuel original position, remove the fuel lines
hoses from the pump. Plug those hoses and line and hand tighten the union nuts
fittings of the pump, preventing dirt from 22. Tighten the coupling nuts to the
entering. specified torque using a torque wrench and
15. Thoroughly clean the high-pressure crow's foot adapter. Use a second wrench to
fuel line connectors on the pump and the secure the pump connectors while tightening
high- pressure fuel pipe. Unscrew the nuts the coupling nuts.
connecting the high-pressure fuel line to the 23. Connect the wire connector to the
fuel pipe and pump using a double-sided pump and the fuel hose connector
wrench. Use a second wrench to secure the 24. On 8-valve engines, install the fuel
pump connector by unscrewing the pump sprocket, timing belt and valve cover
connecting nut. Unscrew the fuel line clamp as described in Chapter 2B.
fixing bolt and remove the fuel line spigot 25. On 16-valve engines, install the 5. 4 When loosening the fuel injector
(see Fig . illustration ) After removing the recirculation pipe and air cleaner support connector nuts, secure the connectors
high-pressure fuel hose, plug or insulate the bracket, then install the fuel pump sprocket with a second wrench (8-valve engines).
exposed connectors to prevent dirt from and timing belt as described in Chapter 2B.
entering. Install the air cleaner and air intake duct as
16. Disconnect the wire connector from the described in Section 4.
pump pressure valve 26. By installing and connecting all -
17. Remove the rear mounting bolt components and observing safety
securing the pump to the support bracket precautions. given in subsection 2. start the
(see illustration) engine and leave it idling. Check for leaks in
18. Unscrew the three front mounting bolts the high pressure fuel line connectors while
and remove the pump from its mounting the engine is idling. If none are found,
bracket (see illustration 8.7) increase the speed to 4000 rpm and check
Caution: The high pressure fuel pump is for leaks again.
manufactured with extreme precision and 27. Give the vehicle a mileage test and
should not be disassembled. Do not unscrew check for leaks upon return. If leaks are
the fuel line connector from the rear of the found, purchase and install a new high
pump or attempt to remove the sensor, fuel pressure fuel line. Do not attempt to eliminate
pressure control valve, or shaft seal. Spare even minor leaks by further tightening the
parts for the pump are not supplied fuel line connecting nuts. During a road test
separately and if the pump malfunctions, the of the vehicle, calibrate the ECM as follows:
entire pump must be replaced. Engage third gear and stabilize the engine at
1000 rpm, then raise the engine speed to
Installation 3500 rpm
19. Install the pump onto its bracket and
screw in the three mounting bolts. Tighten 9 High pressure fuel pipe - removal
them to the specified tightening torque of and installation ,
20. Install the rear support bracket.
Warning: Read the information given in
A subsection 2 before starting work.

Note: Installation requires a new
complete set of fuel line hoses.
Removal
8 valve engines
9.6 Disconnect the wire connector from the 13. Unscrew the two bolts securing the high pressure sensor wire connector to the fuel
pressure sensor located in the high pressure pressure fuel line clamp to the top of the pipe 21. Install the new fuel line from the
fuel pipe (engines with 8 valves) intake manifold (see illustration) pump to the high pressure pipe and tighten
14. Thoroughly clean the connections the connectors by hand then tighten the
5. Plug exposed connectors in the high between the high-pressure fuel lines on the connectors with using the specified
pressure fuel pipe and injectors, preventing pump and the high-pressure fuel pipe. tightening force, secure the pump connector
dirt from entering. Unscrew the nuts connecting the high- with a second wrench.
6. Disconnect the wire connector from the pressure fuel line to the fuel pipe and pump 22. Install a new set of high pressure top
pressure sensor located in the high pressure with a double-sided wrench. Use a second drain lines from
fuel pipe (see illustration) wrench to secure the pump connector by
7. Move the cooling pipes to provide unscrewing the connecting nut. Unscrew the
access to the tube mounting bolts. Unscrew fuel line clamp fixing bolt and remove the fuel
the two mounting bolts and move the tube line hose (see Fig . illustration 8.15) After
from its location (see illustration) Note: removing the high pressure fuel line hose,
Manufacturers recommend not removing the plug or insulate the exposed connections .
pressure sensor from the fuel tube. preventing dirt from entering Please note that
Engines with 16 valves a new fuel line must be used during
installation
8. Disconnect the battery (see Chapter -
15. Repeat the procedure on the fuel lines
5A).
from the fuel pipe to the injectors. Using the
9. Remove the air cleaner assembly and
crow's foot adapter, unscrew the connecting
inlet air ducts as described in subsection 4
nuts (marked with arrows) 9.13 , as space is
10. Unscrew the two screws securing the
limited. (see illustration ) Having
recirculation pipe to the intake manifold and
remembered the initial positions, remove the
the bolt securing the pipe to the rear of the
fuel lines 16. Plug the opened connectors in
cylinder head ( see illustrations 8.11a and
the high pressure fuel pipe and in the
8.11b).
injectors, preventing the penetration of dirt
11. Remove the clamp securing the EGR
pipe to the EGR valve. Cut off the original
pressure sensor located in the high pressure
retaining clamp if it remains in its location.
fuel pipe (see illustration}
When installing, use a new clamp. which can
18. Move the cooling pipes to provide
be purchased online along with a clamping
access to the fuel pipe supports. Unscrew the
screw. If a clamping 9.7 is installed, unscrew
nut and bolt and move the pipe from its
the mounting bolts ( marked with arrows) of
location (see illustration)
the high pressure fuel pipe (engines with 8
valves) screw, unscrew it and remove the Note: Manufacturers recommend not
clamp from the pipe. Remove the removing the pressure sensor from the fuel
recirculation pipe from the rear side of the pipe
engine (see illustration 8.12) Remove the O-
ring from the end of the coarse Installation
12. Unscrew the fastening bolts and nuts, 19. Install the high pressure fuel pipe to its
then remove the air cleaner support bracket location, then install its mounting bolts/nuts
from the rear of the cylinder head (see and finger tighten them 20. Connect the
illustration 8.13)
9.15 С помощью адаптера «воронья 9.17 Отсоедините разъем проводов от 9.18 Выкрутите гайку и болт и смес-
лапа» открутите соединительные датчика давления, расположенного в тите топливную трубку с ее местопо-
гайки форсунок (двигатели с 16 кла- топливной трубке высокого давления ложения (двигатели с 16 клапанами)
панами) (двигатели с 16 клапанами)
fuel pipe to the injectors and hand- tighten - the injectors with a double-sided wrench. Use 9. .6 Upper injector seal (A) and copper
their connectors,
23. Tighten the fuel pipe mounting
bolts/nuts to the specified torque.
24. Tighten the fuel line couplings from the
high pressure pipe to the injectors with the
specified tightening torque, securing the
injector connectors with a second wrench on
engines with 8 valves
25. Final installation is carried out in the
reverse order of removal, including the
following: a) On 8-valve engines, install the
valve cover as described in Chapter 2B. a second wrench to secure the injector sealing washer (B) (8-valve engines)
b) On 16-valve engines, install the connectors by unscrewing the connecting
recirculation pipe and air cleaner support nuts (see illustration 9.4) After remembering
bracket , then install the air cleaner the original locations, remove the fuel lines.
assembly and intake ducts as described Plug or insulate exposed connectors to
in Section 4. prevent dirt from entering
c) Make sure that the connectors and wires 3. Remove the retaining rings and
are positioned and connected correctly . disconnect the bypass tubes from each -
b) Connect the battery as described in injector.
Chapter 5A.
10.4c If the injector clamp mounting pin -
e) Observing the precautions given in
(marked with an arrow) has a loose fit,
subsection 2, start the engine and leave
remove it (engines with 8 valves)
it idling. Check for leaks in the high
pressure fuel line connectors while the 10.4b ...and remove the clamp (engines with
engine is idling. If none are found , 8 valves)...
increase the speed to 4000 rpm and
check for leaks again. Give the vehicle a
4. Unscrew the bolts securing the injector -
mileage test and check for leaks upon
and remove the clamps. If the injector clamp
return. If leaks are detected, purchase
mounting pin has a loose fit, remove the pin
and install a new high pressure fuel line.
from the cylinder head (see illustration}.
Do not attempt to eliminate even minor
5. Carefully lift the nozzle from its position
leaks by further tightening the fuel line
using the lever . Do not lift with a lever or
union nuts. While test driving the vehicle,
apply force to the solenoid housing on the
calibrate the electronic engine control
injector.
unit as follows. Engage third gear and
6. Remove the copper washer and upper
stabilize the engine at 1000 rpm , then
seal from each injector or from the cylinder
raise the speed to 3500 rpm
head if they remained in the injector seat -
10 Fuel injectors - during removal (see illustration). New copper
removal and installation washers and seals will be required during
installation . Close the injector mounting
holes in the cylinder head to prevent mud
Warning: Read the information given in 7. Visually inspect the injectors for signs of
A subsection 2 before starting work. damage or wear. If defects are found, replace
10.4a Unscrew the injector mounting the injector(s)
bolts... Caution: Do not unscrew the fuel line
connector on the injector or remove the
injector body components. Do not clean
Note: The following procedure describes the carbon deposits from the end of the nozzle or
complete removal and installation of perform ultrasonic or pressure testing.
injectors, however, if necessary, each
injector can be removed individually. When
installing each injector that is removed, you
will need new copper sealing washers, top
seals, injector mounting nuts, and fuel line
union nuts.
Removal
8 valve engines
1. Remove the valve cover as
described in Chapter 2B
2. Thoroughly clean the surrounding -
area around the high pressure fuel lines
between the high pressure pipe and the 8. Remove the intake manifold as
injectors. Unscrew the nuts connecting the described in subsection 12.
fuel lines between the high pressure pipe and
of the high pressure fuel lines to the
connectors and first install the connecting
nuts. Be careful not to install the nuts askew
or bend the hoses. After the threads of the
connecting nuts have set, tighten them by
hand.
17. Having installed all the fuel lines, tighten
the locking nuts of the injector clamps with
the set tightening force 18. Having secured
the fuel line connectors with a double-sided
wrench, tighten the connecting nuts with the
10. 9a Unscrew the two locking nuts ... 10.96 ...and remove the injector clamp set tightening force. To do this, use a torque
(engines with 16 valves) wrench and a crow's foot adapter (see
illustration)
19. Further installation is carried out in the
reverse order of removal. including the
following items
a) Install the valve cover as described in
Chapter 2B.
b) Make sure the connections and
placement of connectors and wires are
correct.
c) Connect the battery as described in
11. 10a To remove, swing the nozzle from Chapter 5A.
side to side... 10.106 ...then remove the injector from the 6) Observing the precautions given in
cylinder head (engines with 16 valves in the subsection 2, start the engine and keep
9. Unscrew the two lock nuts and remove injector and do not remove the components
it idling. Check for leaks in the high
the injector clamp (see illustration ) Please of the injector body. Do not clean the carbon
pressure fuel line connectors while the
note that new injector clamp nuts will be deposits from the end of the injector and do
engine is idling. If none are found,
required during installation. not carry out pressure and ultrasonic tests.
10. Using a wrench, grab the washers on
the nozzle body and turn the nozzle from side
Installation check for leaks again. Give the vehicle a
to side. at the same time, pull it up. After 8 valve engines
releasing the nozzle, remove it from its 12. Install the top seals on the bodies and
location (see illustrations) Close the injector copper sealing washers on the ends of the
mounting hole in the cylinder head to prevent injectors (see illustrations)
dirt from entering. 13. Insert the injector clamp locating pins -
11. Remove the copper washer and upper into the cylinder head.
seal from each injector or from the cylinder 14. Place the clips into the grooves on the
head if they remained in the injector seat injector housings and install the injectors on
during removal. New copper washers and the cylinder head. Position the clamps on
seals will be required for installation. their support posts and locating pins . This
Caution: Do not unscrew the fuel line way the injectors are installed. Make sure the
connector on upper injector seals are positioned correctly
in the cylinder head.
15. Install the seals and new injector clamp
nuts onto the support posts. Tighten the nuts
by hand
16. Working separately with each nozzle .
remove the plugs from the fuel line
connectors of the high pressure pipe and the
corresponding injector. Connect new hoses
10.18 Затяните соединительные гайки

10.12а Установите на корпуса фор- 10.126 ...и новые медные уплотни- топливопровода с помощью динамо-
сунок новые верхние уплотнители... тельные шайбы на концы форсунок метрического ключа и адаптера «воро-
(двигатели с 8 клапанами) нья лапа» (двигатели с 8 клапанами)
valves) should be initialized, which will require the
use of special proprietary diagnostic
a) Install the intake manifold as described
equipment.
in subsection 12.
b) Make sure the connections and Note: Before performing the following
placement of connectors and wires are procedure, disconnect the battery (see
correct. Chapter 5A). After installation, reconnect the
c) Connect the battery as described in battery.
Chapter 5A. 4. The unit is located in the plastic battery
b) Observing the precautions given in casing on the left in the engine compartment.
subsection 2, start the engine and keep it 5. To improve access, remove the battery
idling. Check for leaks in the high as described in Chapter 5A.
10.20a Install new upper seals on the nozzle pressure fuel line connectors while the
bodies... engine is idling. If none are found,
nia. Do not attempt to eliminate even
check for leaks again. Give the vehicle a
minor leaks by further tightening the fuel
line union nuts. When test driving the
vehicle, calibrate the ECM as follows.
Engage third gear and stabilize the
Do not attempt to eliminate even minor
engine at 1000 rpm, then raise the speed
leaks by further tightening the fuel line
to 3500 rpm.
union nuts. When test driving the vehicle,
Engines with 16 valves calibrate the ECM as follows. Engage
20. Install the top seals on the housings and third gear and stabilize the engine at
the copper sealing washers on the ends of 1000 rpm, then raise the speed to 3500 11.3 The diagnostic connector (marked
the injectors (see illustrations} 21. Install the rpm. with an arrow) is located above the fuse block
injectors to the cylinder block. Then install the on the passenger side
clamps and new lock nuts. Tighten the nuts 11 Engine management system
by hand components - inspection, removal and
22. Open the fuel line pipes to the injectors installation
(see illustration) Temporarily attach the
manifold to the cylinder head and make sure
there is sufficient play between these Examination
components and the return fuel lines. If 1. If you suspect a malfunction in the
necessary Rotate the injector bodies to electronic engine control system, first make
achieve the required clearance. sure that all wire connectors are securely
23. Rule"'; Having installed the injectors, connected and do not show signs of
corrosion. Make sure that the suspected
tighten the lock nuts of their clamps with the
malfunction is not mechanical in nature or
specified tightening torque
caused by irregular maintenance. Check the
24. Further installation is carried out in the
condition of the air cleaner filter element,
reverse order of removal, including the breather hoses and measure the
following points compression in accordance with Chapters
1В and 2В
2. If during these checks the cause of the
malfunction has not been established, the car
should be presented to a service station of
the appropriate level or to representatives of
the manufacturer for testing
3. The diagnostic connector is located
above the fuse box on the passenger side. A
fault code reader or other necessary
diagnostic equipment can be connected to it
(see illustration). When using a code reader
or other diagnostic equipment, the engine
25. 22 Connect the fuel return lines to the
control system unit (and units of various other
injectors (engines with 16 valves)
vehicle systems) can be checked. By
identifying a fault code, a specialist is able to
quickly determine its cause, eliminating the
need to test all system components
individually, spending considerable time on
this and having the risk of damaging the
electronic engine control system unit
Engine electronic control unit

Note: Installation of a new unit should be
entrusted to representatives of the
10.206 ...and new copper sealing washers manufacturer or a specialist from the relevant
for the ends of the injectors (engines with 16 service station. After replacing the unit, it
• 14 Топливная и выхлопная системы - дизельные двигатели
11.6 Unfasten the latches (marked with described in Chapter 2B. air cleaner assembly . as described in
arrows) and disconnect the connectors from 17. Disconnect the wire connector from the subsection 4
the unit sensor. 27. Release the clamp and
18. Unscrew the fastening bolt and remove intake air duct | urbon netel from air meter
6. Unfasten the latches and disconnect the the sensor from its location (see illustration) 28. B) ■ gee and
connectors from the b.*. , um. illustration} 19. When installing the old sensor, adjust sleep
Undo the clamp and remove the wiring the gap between the end of the sensor and Remove the air meter from the air cleaner -
harness from the block. housing
the signal disk jumpers to 1.2 mm. measuring
7. Extend the lower protrusions of the it with a feeler gauge When installing a new 29. Installation is carried out in the reverse
block mounting plate and remove the block sensor, ensure that its small end is in contact order of removal.
with the plate from the battery casing (see with one of the three jumpers of the disk
illustration)
20. The space for working with the
8. Unscrew the mounting bolts and measuring probe with the sprocket and 30. The air meter is located on the front of
remove the block from the plate the air cleaner cover
timing belt installed is limited. It is possible to
9. Uyano: - . reverse 31. Remove the plastic casing from the
measure the backlash only by bending the
Removal sequences Make sure that the engine. The casing is secured with rubber
probe 90' and inserting it between the spokes
connectors are securely connected. seals. Pull them up to remove.
of the sprocket (see illustration)
Rotation speed/crankshaft position 21. With the dipstick on the surface of the 32. Using a small screwdriver, press the
sensor 10. II . .. signal disc, slide the sensor toward the keys securing the manual pump bracket to
with the crankshaft pulley on the right side of sprocket until it contacts the dipstick. While the front of the air cleaner housing (see
the engine Loosen the bolts of the right front holding the sensor in this position, tighten the illustration ) . Move the pump forward.
wheel, then lift the front of the car and install bolt securing the sensor.
it on the axial points: d >.ah (see "Lifting the 22. Once the correct play is set, connect
car with a jack and installing supports") the wire connector to the sensor, then install
Remove the right front wheel the upper timing belt guard as described in
11. Having previously pushed out the - Chapter 2B
central part, remove the plastic rivets using a
lever and remove the wheel arch protection Gas pedal position sensor
12. Oyus. | 23. The sensor is an integral part of the
(see illustration)
13. After unscrewing the bolt, remove the
sensor
11.25 The air meter (marked with an arrow) is
order of removal. Securely tighten the bolt
located in front of the air cleaner (engines
securing the sensor.
with 8 valves)
Camshaft position sensor
15. Camshaft position sensor
11.20 To measure the play of the camshaft

position sensor, insert a feeler gauge bent
90' between the spokes of the sprocket
11.12 Disconnect the wires from the -
crankshaft position sensor of the gas pedal
assembly. Refer to the appropriate
subsection of Chapter 4A when performing
the pedal removal procedure
11.18 Bolt securing the camshaft position Refrigerant temperature sensor

sensor (marked with an arrow)
24. See 1laeu 3. congratulations! ■
11.7 Unhook the lower protrusions of the
block mounting plate and remove the block Air meter
with the plate from the accumulator casing on
the camshaft race bearing casing . directly 8 valve engines
behind the distributor sprocket. 25. The air meter is located in front of the
16. Remove the upper timing belt cover as air cleaner (see illustration) 26. Remove the
датчик с блока цилиндров

48. Установка производится в обратной
последовательности снятия Затяните
болт, крепящий датчик, с установленным
усилием затяжки
Клапан, регулирующий
давление топлива
49. Этот клапан является неотъемлемой
частью топливного насоса высокого
давления и не может быть снят
11.32 Вдавите шпонки крепления Блок управления системой
кронштейна насоса ручной подкачки к 11.33 Отсоедините впускной возду- предпускового подогрева
крышке воздухоочистителя (двигатели ховод турбонагнетателя от воздухо-
с 16 клапанами) мера (двигатели с 16 клапанами) 50. □( . атите т « Главе 5С
Exhaust gas recirculation valve

51. Contact (lava 4C
Vehicle speed sensor
52. On models not equipped with the AB8
system. The vehicle speed sensor is an
integral part of the speedometer drive. Refer
to Chapter 7A for removal and installation
details. On other models, the engine control
unit receives vehicle speed data from the
wheel speed sensors, through the AB8
system control unit.
11.34 Disconnect the wire connector from the 11.35 Unscrew the three screws securing the
air meter (engines with 16 valves) to free up air cleaner cover and remove it (engines with 12 Intake manifold -
space in the air cleaner area 16 valves) high pressure and not supplied removal and installation
33. Release the clamp' and disconnect the separately Manufacturers strongly do not
turbocharger intake air duct with pikes' • 1 recommend removing the sensor
(see illustration) Manifold pressure sensor
34. Disconnect the wire connector from the 8 valve engines
39. The sensor is installed only on engines
connector. • t'। dem. illustration) 1. The intake manifold is an integral
with 16 valves and is located on the right of
35. . 'pi! screws securing spe part of the valve cover. Refer to
the intake manifold (see illustration)
from the air cleaner housing to the base. Lift Chapter 2B
40. Remove the plastic casing from the
the air cleaner cover by disengaging the
engine. The casing is secured with rubber
mounting tabs at the rear, then remove it. Engines with
seals. Pull them up to remove
illustration)
16 valves
36. Unscrew the fastening screws and Removal
remove the air meter from the air cleaner sensor, unscrew the fastening bolt and
housing cover remove the sensor from the manifold. 2. Remove the air cleaner, intake air ducts
37. Installation is carried out in arr. 1 and air intake resonator as described in
removal sequence. order of removal. subsection 4
Knock sensor 3. Thoroughly clean the forward and return
Fuel pressure sensor fuel line connectors located above the upper
38. Datmi" pressure tonlish is an integral 43. The sensor is installed on 16-valve housing.
part of the fuel pipe - engines only and is located on the rear of the
cylinder block, directly below the high
pressure fuel pipe. Access to the sensor is
limited. It is best to operate the sensor from
below.
44. Put the car on the handbrake, then lift
the front of the car and install it on axle
supports (see “Lifting the car with a jack and
installing supports”)
45. Remove the engine protection.
46. Determine the location of the wire and
disconnect the sensor wire connector.
47. Unscrew the fastening bolt and remove 12.3 By pressing the keys on the connectors,
11.39 Location of the sensor ( marked with connect the fuel lines (engines with 16
an arrow) pressure in the manifold (engines valves)
with 16 valves)
12.6 Remove the horseshoe clip and

12.4 Disconnect the wire connector from the 12.5 Disconnect the intermediate heat disconnect the main harness connector (16
manifold pressure sensor (engines with 16 exchanger outlet pipe from the manifold valve engines) shaft with a clean cloth while
valves) using the drive timing belt housing. (engines with 16 valves) the valve cover is removed, preventing dirt
By pressing the keys on the connectors, from entering
If the original clamp remains in its location
disconnect these: . rg • , >see illustration) 14. Disconnect the fuel return pipe fittings
after loosening. cut off wow, a new clamp
Plug the connectors and hoses, preventing from the injectors and remove the return pipe
with a clamping screw can be purchased at a
dirt from entering and fuel loss. Release the assemblies (see illustration)
branded chain of stores. If a clamping screw
fuel lines from the fastening clamps on the 15. Squeeze the edges of the clamps with
was installed, unscrew it and remove the
manifold. two small screws and disconnect the wire
clamp from the pipe. Remove the
4. Disconnect the wire connector from the connectors from the injectors (see
recirculation pipe from the rear of the engine
pressure sensor in the intake manifold - G 1 illustration) Move the injector wiring harness
(see illustration 8.12) Remove the seal from
see illustration} away from the manifold.
the end of the pipe
5. Release the clamp and disconnect the 16. Unscrew the remaining rear mounting
10. Remove the bolt securing the right end
outlet tube of the intermediate heat bolts and remove the manifold from the
of the intake manifold to the cylinder head
exchanger from the heat exchanger manifold cylinder head. Remove the O-rings from the
(see illustration).
. illustration ) 11. Unscrew the two bolts securing the manifold mounting holes (see illustrations )
6. Disconnect the connector of the main ♦ high-pressure fuel line tube clamps to the top Please note that during installation you will
wires, located at the rear of the intake of the intake manifold (see illustration 9.13). need new O-ring seals 17. 11check the
manifold. I the connector is secured with a 12. Thoroughly clean the high pressure fuel condition of the cylinder head rubber seal
pin-shaped lock, which should be pulled to line connectors on the injectors and fuel pipe. and, if there are signs of unsuitability, replace
the side for removal (see illustration) Remove Using the crow's foot adapter, unscrew the it.
the screws and bridge the wire connector connecting nuts securing the high-pressure Installation
support bracket from the rear of the manifold fuel lines to the injectors and fuel pipe (see 18. Thoroughly clean the cylinder head
7. Locate the wiring harness from the rear illustration 9.15) Note that installation inlet ports and install new intake manifold O-
EGR valve connector and engine. requires a complete set of high pressure fuel rings. Lightly lubricate the O-rings with clean
Disconnect the valve connector, then move lines. Remembering the original positions, engine oil.
the wiring harness and fuel/vacuum hoses remove the high pressure fuel line hoses. 19. Set input • ■ rn . cylinder head and
away from the manifold. Plug the connectors in the injectors and fuel install those two rear mounting bolts and the
8. Unscrew the two SCREWS that tilt the pipe to prevent dirt from entering. bolt at the right front corner. Tighten the bolts
exhaust gas recirculation pipe to the intake 13. Unscrew the seven bolts and remove by hand.
manifold and the bolt securing the pipe to the the valve cover from the camshaft bearing 20. Connect the connectors to the injectors
rear of the cylinder head \ see. illustrations housing ( see illustration) Cover the camshaft
8.11a and 8.11b) bearing housing
9. Remove the clamp securing the -
recirculation pipe to the recirculation valve
12.10 Выкрутите болт, крепящий 12.13 Выкрутите семь болтов и сни- 12.14 Отсоедините штуцеры трубок
правый конец впускного коллектора к мите клапанную крышку с кожуха обратной подачи топлива с форсунок и
головке блока цилиндров (двигатели с подшипников распредвала (двигатели с снимите трубки обратной подачи в
16 клапанами) 16 клапанами) сборе (двигатели с 16 клапанами)
12.15 Squeeze the clamp valve and a new high pressure fuel line. Do not turbocharger operates, air is not sucked into
disconnect the wire connectors from the attempt to eliminate even minor leaks by the cylinders, but is forced
injectors (engines with 16 valves), the wire further tightening the fuel line union nuts. 2. The source of energy for the
connections and the return flow tube fittings When test driving the vehicle, calibrate operation of the turbocharger is exhaust -
21. Attach the 11th cover to its location the ECM as follows. Engage third gear gases. The gases pass through a specially
and its fastening bolts. Tighten the fastening and stabilize the engine at 1000 rpm, shaped turbine housing and thus rotate its
bots in the specified sequence and with the then raise the speed to 3500 rpm. wheel. The turbine wheel is connected by a
specified tightening torque {see. illustration} shaft to another blade wheel - the
13 Exhaust manifold - compressor wheel. The compressor wheel
Tighten the two rear ones and the one in the
removal and installation d.
front right corner with the specified - rotates in its own casing,
tightening force
1. Remove the turbocharger as described

in subsection 15.
2. Unscrew the lock nuts, remove the seals
and remove the manifold. Remove the
gasket (see illustration )
13.2b Remove the manifold gasket
12.21 Sequence of tightening the valve cover

bolts (engines with 16 valves)
22. Install a new set of high pressure fuel
lines from the fuel pipe to the injectors and
hand tighten the union nuts 13.2a Unscrew the lock nuts, remove the
23. Tighten the connecting nuts on the fuel seals and remove the manifold
lines from the fuel pipe to the injectors with 12.166 ...and remove the O -rings from the
the specified tightening torque, using the
manifold mounting holes (engines with 16
crow's foot adapter 24.
valves)
presses the high pressure fuel lines to the top
of the dim manifold Installation
25. Further installation is carried out in the 3. Installation is carried out in the reverse
reverse order of removal. including the
following items.
points.
a) Make sure the connections and a) Make sure that the mating surfaces of the
placement of connectors and wires are manifold and cylinder head are clear of
correct. any debris from the removed gasket.
b) Connect the battery as described in b) Install a new gasket and tighten all
Chapter 5A various exhaust manifold fastening nuts with
c) Observing the precautions given in the specified tightening torque c) Install the
subsection 2, start the engine and keep turbocharger as described in subsection 15.
it idling. Check for leaks in connections
- 12.16a Remove the manifold from the 14 Turbocharger - description and
cylinder head... precautions
high pressure fuel lines when the engine

Description
is idling. If none are found, increase the
1. the hotel serves for
rotation speed to 4000 rpm and check for
reducing engine power by raising the
leaks again. Give the vehicle a mileage
pressure in the intake manifold above
test and check for leaks upon return. If
atmospheric pressure. When the
leaks are detected, purchase and install
1. .8 Unscrew the bolts securing the sides

15.7a Remove four screws... 11. 7b ...and remove the jumper of the radiator/intermediate heat exchanger
from the mounting frame of the mounting frame and remove the frame from
radiator/intermediate heat exchanger the engine compartment
compressing the air supplied to the intake
15 Turbocharger - xa of the radiator/intermediate heat
manifold
removal, inspection and installation exchanger mounting frame (see illustrations)
3. The boost pressure
(pressure/intake manifold) is limited by a 8. Unscrew the bolts securing the sides of
wastegate, which directs excess exhaust the radiator/intermediate heat exchanger
gases bypassing the turbine. The flap is Removal mounting frame to the front fenders. Remove
controlled by a boost pressure-sensitive the mounting frame by unhooking its lower
actuator. protrusions and move it forward as far as the
2. Place the car on the handbrake . then lift
4. The turbocharger shaft is hoses allow (see illustration
the front of the car and install it on axle
lubricated by pressure from the engine
lubrication system. Oil is supplied to the the upper heat-resistant shield of the exhaust
installing supports”) Unscrew the screws and
turbocharger through a tube from the main manifold from its position ( see illustration)
remove the engine protection
lubrication line. The shaft “floats” on an oil Yu. Unscrew the bolts of the corner flange of
3. Remove the intake air resonator as
cushion. The oil returns through the drain the oil supply tube and remove the seals (see
pipe to the engine sump. illustrations)
4. Remove the catalytic converter as
described in subsection 17. 11. Donkey! mutate and disconnect the
Precautionary measures
5. Loosen the clamp and disconnect the return oil line from the turbocharger ( see
5. The turbocharger operates illustration)
outlet pipe of the intermediate heat
at extremely high speeds and temperatures.
exchanger from the intake manifold. 12. Unscrew the four nuts and remove the
To avoid damaging the turbocharger and
6. Remove the radiator grille. turbocharger from the intake manifold (see
causing injury to yourself, certain precautions
7. Unscrew the four screws and remove the illustrations)
must be taken.
top front jumper from the top
6. Do not operate the
turbocharger with any components or hoses
removed. Foreign bodies caught on the
rotating blades can damage the turbocharger
and cause injury if released from it.
7. . It takes a few seconds for
the oil to circulate in the turbocharger.
8. Before turning off, keep the
engine idling. Do not turn off the engine
immediately after releasing the gas pedal,
otherwise the supercharger will continue to
rotate quickly without lubrication 15.10a Unscrew the bolts of the corner flange
8. .9 Unscrew the three bolts and remove of the oil supply pipe from the cylinder block...
9. Before turning off the engine
after running at high speeds, increase the the heat-resistant exhaust manifold shield
shutter speed to several minutes.
10. Follow the oil and filter
change intervals recommended by the
manufacturers and use an appropriate high
quality oil. Untimely replacement or use of -
insufficiently high-quality oil can lead to the
formation of carbon deposits on the blades
and on the supercharger shaft, leading to its
failure
15.10s Note the filter (marked with an arrow)
built into the flange bolt
15.106 and turbocharger
Inspection
13. After removing the turbocharger, check
its casing for cracks or other visible damage.
14. Check the turbine or compressor
wheel to make sure that the shaft is aligned
and that there are no shocks or jerks during
rotation. Since it began to be used, floating in
the oil shaft, some movement in its landing is
allowed. Turn it so that the wheel blades are
not damaged. .
15. If obvious । There is a dirty oil deposit
on the surfaces of the chambers, probably - 16.6 Compress the dowels and move the top 9. .7 ...then remove the intermediate heat
the turbine shaft seals have become /my plastic mounting//th bracket of the exchanger from its location
unusable intermediate heat exchanger supports")
16. 1M'n shch y-y rhyme? turbines cannot Unscrew the screws and remove the engine 17 Выхлопная система -
be produced and none of its components are shield общая информация, замена
2. Loosen the clamp and disconnect the компонентов
supplied separately. If the turbocharger is
faulty, replace it as a new unit. inlet and outlet air ducts about the
intermediate heat exchanger from the intake general information
Installation manifold and the inlet air resonator 1. On new cars, the exhaust system is
17. Installation
is carried out in the same 3. Remove the radiator grille conventionally divided into two parts - the
removal sequence including the following 4. Unscrew the four screws and remove the front downpipe with the catalytic converter
points. upper front jumper from the top of the and the rest of the system, consisting of a
a/ Replace the turbocharger fastening nuts - radiator/intermediate heat exchanger muffler and exhaust pipe. The catalytic
and gaskets. mounting frame (see illustrations 15.7a and converter is attached to the turbocharger and
b) When installing a new turbocharger , 15.70) the intermediate / rear section with clamps
change the oil and filter. 5. Remove the bolts securing the sides of with a tie bolt.
c) Before connecting the oil supply pipe, fill the radiator/intermediate heat exchanger 2. exhaust pipe) can be purchased for
the new turbocharger with clean engine mounting frame to the front fenders. Remove replacement during servicing , but the
oil through its connector . the mounting frame by disengaging its lower original front pipe is cut with a hacksaw to
tabs and move it forward as far as the hoses connect the new section. New sections have
16 Intermediate . will allow (see illustration 15.8) clamping sleeves to connect to the original
heat exchanger - removal and 6. Using two screwdrivers, compress the pipe.
dowels on the sides of the upper plastic - 3. The system is damped along its entire
interheat exchanger mounting bracket. Tilt length by rubber cushions and contains a
On a note; The intermediate heat exchanger the top of the interheater towards the engine flexible section at the front to compensate for
is only installed on engines with 16 valves. to dislodge the bracket from its location, then vibrations.
remove the heat exchanger from its support 4. To completely or partially remove the
Removal (see illustration) system, lift the front or rear of the car and
1. The intermediate heat exchanger is - 7. Lift the intermediate heat exchanger to install it on axle supports (see “Lifting the car
located at the front of the engine disengage the lower support tabs, then with a jack and installing supports”) Or install
compartment on the right side of the radiator. carefully remove the assembly from the the car on an inspection hole or inclined
Put the car on the handbrake, then lift the engine compartment (see illustration) planes. When completely removing the
front of the car and place it on axle supports Remove the lower rubber support system, we should lower the rear axle to
(see “Raising the car and installing provide clearance, allowing
Installation
8. Installation is carried out in the reverse -
order of removal.
5. .11 Loosen the clamp (marked with an 15.12a Unscrew the lower nuts ( marked 15.126 , and the upper nuts securing the
arrow) of the return oil line with arrows)... turbocharger
17.7a Loosen the clamp (marked with an exhaust system and the underbody of the cut site . Place the new clamping bushing on
arrow) connecting the catalytic converter to vehicle. the exhaust pipe up to this mark. Install the
the turbocharger..., then remove the system c) Install the rear springs under the fastening bolts and nuts and pre-tighten
from the rear of the car. Take this into suspensions. as described in Chapter 10. them just enough to just fix the bushing in its
account when placing the car for repair location.
Intermediate pipe (replacement 24. Connect the new intermediate pipe to
Removal and installation during maintenance) the clamping sleeve, then tighten the bracket
Catalytic converter 15. If the intermediate pipe is installed. mounting nuts by hand
loosen the clamp connecting the 25. Install the clamp connecting the
5. Unscrew the bolts and remove the
intermediate pipe to the catalytic converter. intermediate pipe with the catalytic converter
engine protection
16. Unscrew the nuts securing the and tighten the clamp bolt securely!
6. Remove the six bolts and lower heat
intermediate pipe mounting brackets to the 26. Make sure the clamp sleeve is still on
shield on the front of the catalytic converter
bottom of the car. Loosen the clamping the pre-marked mark and the intermediate
7. turbocharger and intermediate/rear pipe
bushing nuts, remove the intermediate pipe pipe is fully engaged by the sleeve. Tighten
connectors (see illustrations} Be careful not
from the bushing and remove it from under the clamp sleeve nuts and mounting bracket
to damage the flexible section of the
the car. nuts securely
intermediate/end pipe.
8. Unscrew the two nuts securing the
order of removal. At the same time, check the
catalytic converter to the cylinder block and
rubber cushions for signs of wear or damage
remove the converter from below the engine
and, if necessary, replace them.
compartment (see illustration ) 18. If the intermediate pipe is installed on
9. Remove the bracket and the internal the original system , determine the position
heat-resistant shield from the cylinder block of the cut point on the front pipe. The cut
struts (see illustrations) point is located in front of the rear axle and is
10. Installation is carried out in the reverse marked by four round notches on the pipe.
order of removal. Make sure the clamps are 19. Use a hacksaw to cut the pipe
tightened to the specified torque according to
Entire system (except catalytic
17.9b and internal heat-resistant shield from
converter)
the cylinder block racks
11. When completely removing the system
, lower the rear axle to provide space to Muffler/exhaust pipe
remove the system from the rear of the 27. IF a muffler/exhaust pipe is installed,
vehicle. To do this, remove the rear remove the nuts securing the
suspension springs as described in Chapter muffler/exhaust pipe mounting bracket to the
10 and lower the rear axle as far as possible. underbody of the vehicle. Loosen the nuts of
12. Loosen the clamp connecting the the clamping sleeve, remove the
catalytic converter to the intermediate/rear muffler/exhaust pipe from the sleeve and
pipe. remove the pipe from under the car
13. Unscrew the nuts securing the exhaust 17.9a Remove the bracket...
system mounting brackets to the bottom of 17.8 Unscrew the two nuts (marked with
the car. Lift the system above the rear axle arrows) and remove the catalytic converter
and remove it from the rear of the car. according to the corresponding marks
14. Installation is carried out in the reverse 20. OspabGO clamp connecting the
order of removal, including the following intermediate pipe to the catalytic converter
points 21. Unscrew the nuts securing the
17.7b ...and intermediate/end pipe (marked intermediate pipe mounting brackets to the
with arrow) bottom of the car and remove the pipe from
under the car
22. Check the rubber pads for signs of
a) Check the rubber cushions for signs of wear or damage and replace them if
wear or damage and replace them as necessary. If they are in satisfactory
necessary. condition , install the pads on a new
b) Before tightening the exhaust system intermediate pipe.
fasteners, make sure that the rubber 23. Use a pencil to mark the pipe installed
cushions are positioned correctly and on the car at a distance of 40 mm from the
that there is sufficient play between the
28. Installation is performed in the reverse from the cut site . Place the new clamping (unscrew the center screw, then remove the
sequence of installation. At the same time, sleeve onto the intermediate tube up to this fastener) and move the shield from its
check the rubber cushions for signs of wear mark. Install the fastening bolts and nuts and location. On some models, it is necessary to
or damage. if necessary, replace pre-tighten them. just to fix the bushing in its remove the exhaust system supports to
29. If the muffler/exhaust pipe is to be location. provide the clearance necessary to remove
installed on the original system, determine 34. Podss I new the heat shield
the position of the cut on the original pipe. exhaust pipe to the clamping sleeve, then
The cutting point is located in front of the rear install the mounting bracket lock nuts.
axle and is marked with four round notches 35. Make sure the clamping sleeve is still
on pipe 30. Cut with a hacksaw, rough, on the pre- made mark and the
according to the corresponding marks muffler/exhaust pipe is completely captured
31. Remove the nuts securing the by the sleeve. Securely tighten the clamp
muffler/exhaust pipe mounting bracket to the sleeve nuts and mounting bracket nuts.
underbody and remove the exhaust pipe Heat resistant shield(s)
from under the vehicle.
36. Heat-resistant shields are attached to
32. Check the rubber cushions for signs of the bottom with a variety of nuts and
wear or damage. Replace if necessary. If fasteners (see illustration) When the shield is 17.36 Fastening nuts (marked with arrows)
their condition is satisfactory , install removed to gain access to the corresponding of the heat-resistant shield for parts of the
supports on the new muffler/exhaust pipe. components located behind it. unscrew the exhaust system
33. Place a mark with a pencil on the pipe lock nuts and/or disconnect the fasteners
av • yy For notes
ас • а
Chapter 4 Part C:
Exhaust gas control system
Content
General information . . .,. ,1 Catalytic Converter - General Information and Precautions 3
Exhaust gas control system - checking and replacing
components .2
1 General information exhaust gases, which allows you to control To ensure normal engine operation during
the composition of the mixture providing the warm-up and idling, the carbon filter purge
best conditions for the operation of the valve is closed so as not to enrich the mixture
neutralizer beyond normal The valve opens only when
The oxygen sensor is equipped with a the engine reaches operating temperature
All petrol engines! The vehicles run on
heating element, which allows the sensor to and only when operating under load
unleaded fuel and have a number of devices
quickly reach the desired temperature and
and functions designed to minimize harmful
begin operation. The tip of the sensor is Diesel engines
emissions into the atmosphere. The main
sensitive to oxygen and, depending on the Crankcase ventilation control
ones are the crankcase ventilation system,
oxygen concentration, sends various pulses
the catalytic converter and the fuel vapor The crankcase ventilation systems of -
to the engine control system unit. If the
management system diesel and gasoline engines are
working mixture is too rich, the exhaust
All diesel engines also meet stringent fundamentally no different.
gases contain little oxygen and the sensor
emissions requirements. All models feature Exhaust gas composition control
sends a low-level signal to the ECU. When
crankcase ventilation, catalytic converter and
the mixture becomes lean, the proportion of To minimize harmful components in
exhaust gas recirculation
oxygen in the exhaust gases increases and exhaust gases, a catalytic converter is
Emission control systems work as follows:
the sensor sends a high-level signal to the installed on all models.
Gasoline models ECU. The best neutralization of all harmful The catalytic converter is a ceramic mass
components in the exhaust gases is penetrated by thin capillaries . the entire
Crankcase ventilation control achieved when the composition of the surface of which is covered with a thin layer
To reduce the emission of unburned working mixture corresponds to the of noble metals, in the presence of which the
hydrocarbons from the crankcase into the chemically required fuel-air ratio for complete chemical transformation of harmful
atmosphere, the engine is sealed, and gases combustion of fuel This mixture consists of substances (carbon monoxide,
that have broken into the crankcase and oil 14 7 parts of air (by mass! and 1 part of hydrocarbons and soot) into harmless ones
vapors are removed from it through a wire oil gasoline (this ratio is called stoichiometric) is accelerated
separator into the intake manifold. from The voltage at the output of the oxygen
where they enter the cylinders and burn there sensor at this point changes especially
Exhaust gas recirculation system
in the usual way sharply, so the ECU can very accurately This system directs a small portion of the
The pressure in the crankcase is always regulate the composition of the mixture by exhaust gases into the intake tract and
slightly higher than in the intake manifold, so changing the pulse duration opening of the includes them in the combustion process. -
gases from the crankcase are sucked into the nozzle. This process reduces the level of nitrogen
manifold oxides in the exhaust gases.
Fuel vapor management The process is regulated by the engine
Exhaust gas composition
To reduce the possibility of unburned control system unit. A vacuum-controlled
monitoring hydrocarbons entering the atmosphere, all recirculation valve is installed on the exhaust
To reduce harmful components in exhaust models are equipped with a fuel vapor control manifold, which regulates the amount of
gases, a catalytic converter is installed on all system. The neck of the fuel tank is closed exhaust gases returning to the intake
models, which is part of the exhaust system. hermetically, and fuel vapors from the tank manifold. Vacuum is supplied to the
The mixture control system has feedback enter through the ventilation hose into the recirculation valve through a solenoid valve,
through a lambda probe (oxygen sensor) carbon filter (adsorber), located behind the which is controlled by the control system unit
located in front of the converter. The sensor arch of the right rear wheel, in which they
constantly informs the control unit about the accumulate while the car is parked. When the
amount of oxygen in the engine is running, the ECU opens the filter
purge valve, through which accumulated fuel
vapors enter the intake manifold and burn in
the engine cylinders
Система контроля отработавших газов ас • з
2.4 Mounting nuts (marked with arrows) of Replacing the purge valve 14. Observe the direction of pickup from
the carbon filter (ad sorber) 7. The purge valve is located on the right - the sensors located in front and behind the
side of the cylinder head in the engine catalytic converter. One of the sensors is
2 Exhaust gas monitoring system - compartment located in the exhaust manifold, and the
checking and replacing components 8. Disconnect the water connector and other is behind the catalytic converter (see
vapor supply hoses from the valve. If a illustration ). Disconnect both connectors and
Gasoline engines folding lip clamp was installed, cut it off and free the wiring from all kinds of clamps and
use a worm-drive clamp when installing. clamps.
Crankcase ventilation control 15. Unscrew the sensor from the exhaust
1. The components of this system do not 9. Remove the valve from its mounting pipe and remove it along with the seal
require special attention, except for periodic bracket and remove it from the engine 16. Installation is performed in sequence .
compartment.
checking of the condition of the hoses. reverse to removal When installing, replace
10. The valve is installed in the reverse
Fuel vapor control system order of removal. Make sure the hoses are the sensor seal. Before installing the sensor,
2. If there is a suspicion of a system connected correctly lubricate its threads with high-temperature
malfunction, disconnect the hoses from the grease. Carefully route the sensor wiring so
carbon filter and from the purge valve. Check
Exhaust gas composition that it does not touch the exhaust system
if the hoses are clogged and blow them out. monitoring system elements anywhere. Tighten the sensor
If the carbon filter or purge valve is faulty, 11. The operation of the exhaust gas securely.
they must be replaced composition control system can only be
Replacing the carbon filter checked using a good gas analyzer. Diesel engines
12. If the CO content at the outlet is too
3. The carbon filter is located under the high, the car must be sent to a service station Crankcase ventilation control
rear right wheel arch. To gain access to the to check the operation of the fuel injection 17. The components of this system do not
filter , put the car on the handbrake, lift the and ignition systems, including the lambda require special attention, except for periodic
rear of the car and install axle supports (see probe. For such a check, special diagnostic checking of the condition of the hoses.
"Lifting the car with a jack and installing equipment is required, which the car owner
supports"} Remove the rear right wheel. and, does not have. If check Exhaust gas composition
having removed the plastic rivets, behind the monitoring system
wheel arch shield. 18. The condition of the catalytic converter
4. Unscrew the two mounting nuts and can only be checked using a good gas
remove the carbon filter from the wheel arch analyzer
(see illustration) 19. If there is a suspicion that
5. Identify location
2.14b ...and in the front intake pipe (marked

with an arrow) behind the catalytic converter
2.7b ...and on 1.6-liter engines (marked with
an arrow) showed that the control system is
faulty, which means the catalytic converter is
faulty and needs to be replaced, as indicated
2.14a Oxygen sensors located in the exhaust
in Chapter 4A
manifold (marked with an arrow)...
2.7a Location of the purge valve (marked Replacing the catalytic converter
with an arrow) on 1.1 and 1.4 liter engines... 13. See Chapter 4A
vapor hoses, then, by pressing the buttons of Replacing the oxygen sensor
the quick-release connector , disconnect the (lambda probe)
hoses from the adsorber Note: The oxygen sensor requires delicate
6. Installation is performed in the reverse handling. It should not be dropped, subjected
order of removal. Make sure the hoses are to impacts, or wiped with rough materials - it
connected correctly will simply stop working.
ас • 2 Система контроля отработавших газов
2.23a Unscrew the two screws (marked with

arrows) securing the recirculation pipe to the
intake manifold
2.28a Locking nuts of the valve - exhaust gas

recirculation solenoid (marked with arrows) 2.28b ...and bolts (marked with arrows) on
on engines with 8 valves... engines with 16 valves
those O-ring seal from the edge of the pipe.
2.24b.then remove the pipe from the engine 25. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the
Gasoline models
. The catalytic converter is faulty, first make recirculation valve, then unscrew the two
sure that the problem is not caused by a bolts and remove the valve from the rear of a) DO NOT use gasoline with additives of
faulty injector. Consult your dealer or service the engine. Remove the gasket. 26. lead or its compounds - lead will cover
Installation is performed in the reverse order the surfaces of the neutralizer and
station specialist.
of removal. Install a new gasket and O-ring. gradually render it completely unusable.
Replacing the catalytic b) Always maintain the fuel and ignition
converter Replacing the Exhaust Gas systems in good condition and perform
20. See Chapter 4B Recirculation Valve all routine maintenance in accordance
Exhaust gas recirculation system 27. The solenoid valve is located on the with the manufacturer's schedule.
face of the cylinder block of 8-valve engines c) If the ignition system operates
21. The system is checked at a company
and on the bottom of the cylinder block of 16- intermittently, do not use the car at all (at
workshop due to the need to use equipment valve engines. least as little as possible) until the
such as a vacuum pump and vacuum sensor 28. To remove the valve, disconnect the problem is resolved.
Replacing valves two vacuum hoses and the wire connector . b) DO NOT START the engine from a towbar
recycling Unscrew the valve mounting bracket or pusher - fuel will flood the converter
22. Remove the air cleaner as described in bolts/nuts and remove the valve from the and then overheat it when the engine
Chapter 4 B engine (see illustrations) starts.
23. Remove the two bolts securing the 29. Installation is performed in sequence . e) DO NOT turn off the ignition at high engine
recirculation pipe to the intake manifold and reverse to withdrawal. speeds.
the bolt securing the pipe to the rear of the 1) DO NOT use any fuel or engine oil
3 Catalytic
cylinder head {see. illustrations) additives - these additives may be
converter - general information and
24. Remove the clamp securing the valve harmful to the converter.
precautions
to the recirculation pipe. If, after loosening, - e) STOP using the vehicle if the engine is
the original clamp remains in its location, cut consuming too much oil or if blue smoke
1. The catalytic converter is a simple and is coming out of the exhaust pipe.
it off. A new clamp with a tightening bolt can reliable device that does not require any b) Remember that the neutralizer operates at
be purchased from branded parts stores. If a maintenance. but there are several points
clamp with a clamping screw was installed, very high temperatures. DO NOT park
that the car owner should be aware of if he the vehicle on dry grass, piles of dry
unscrew the screw and pull the clamp from wants the neutralizer to properly perform its
the pipe. Disconnect the recirculation pipe leaves or other flammable material after
functions throughout its entire service life a long trip.
from the rear of the engine {see. illustrations)
2.24a Remove the clamp (marked with an I) Remember that the neutralizer is very large
With them
arrow) securing the valve to the recirculation - do not throw it or hit it during repair work.
2.236 ...and the bolt (marked with an arrow) pipe..,
securing the pipe to the rear of the cylinder
head
Система контроля отработавших газов ас • з
I) In some cases, the exhaust gases may

smell like hydrogen sulfide (like rotten eggs).
Don't be alarmed - this is normal for most
neutralizers. After several thousand
kilometers this will pass.
j) If the neutralizer has ceased to perform its
functions, it must be replaced.
Diesel models
2. See the information provided in l p
I, d.P. and I for gasoline models.
5А • 1
Chapter 5 Part A:
Starting and charging systems
Content
General information and precautions, 1 Generator - checking and adjusting 8
Search for a short circuit in an electrical circuit - general Starting system - check 9
information. 2 Starter - removal and installation _____________ ________10
Battery check and charge 3 Starter - check and repair 11
Battery - disconnecting, removing and installing. 4 Charging Ignition switch - removal and installation 12
system - check 5 Emergency oil pressure sensor - removal and installation
Generator drive belt - removal, installation and tension . .................................................... 13
6 Oil level sensor - removal and installation 14
Generator removal and installation ........................................... 7
Тип системы 12 Volts, minus to ground
Тип . Low or no maintenance
Степень заряженности:
11иэкая 12.5 V
Нормальная 12 6 V
Высокая 12 7 V
Генератор переменного тока
Тип . . ......................................... ...
□epzo, \/a!eo or M|(8ub18Gi (depending on the model)
Выходной ток
Бензиновые двигатели
Дизельные двигатели 60. 70. 80 or 90 A
80 or 150 A
Стартер M|18ub151n, \/a1eo. Oise111eg, |vkg. or Possible (depending

Тип on the model)

Generator mounting bolts .......... 40
Oil pressure sensor ....... . thirty
Starter .......................... .... .... ................... 35
1 General information and traction relay. When starting, the traction • Before working on the electrical system,
precautions relay engages the starter drive gear with the always remove rings, watches, etc. Even with
flywheel ring gear before the starter is the battery disconnected, a capacitor may
energized. Once the engine is running, the discharge through a metal object you have to
overrunning clutch prevents the starter rotor ground. This may cause shock or severe
general information from turning away from the engine. until the burns.
The electrical system of the engine drive gear disengages from the flywheel • Be careful not to mix up battery terminals;
consists mainly of starting and charging this can seriously damage components such
systems. In connection with this. Because Precautionary measures as the alternator, electronic circuits, and
the functions of these devices are closely More details about the design and - other components that contain
related to the engine, they are described maintenance of various systems will be semiconductor devices.
separately from other electrical devices of the discussed in the relevant subsections of this
car, such as lights. instrument panel, etc. chapter. Although the book contains a
(which are described in Chapter 12) A description of some repair procedures, the
description of the ignition system for gasoline usual repair method is to replace the faulty
engines is given in Chapter 5B. and a element. An owner who does not want to limit
description of the heating system for diesel himself to simply replacing elements is
engines is in Chapter 5C. recommended to purchase the book “ Car
Vehicle electrical system 12-volt minus on Electrical System and Its Maintenance”
ground When working on the engine's electrical
All models have a maintenance-free or system, you must take precautions to avoid
low-maintenance battery that is charged from damaging semiconductors (diodes and
an alternator with rectifier. The generator is transistors) or causing injury to yourself. In
driven by a V-belt from the crankshaft pulley. addition to the precautions listed in the
Pre-engineered engine starter , which is “Safety First !” section . When working on the
achieved by a built-in electromagnetic electrical system, observe the following rules:
БА • г Системы пуска и зарядки
• If the engine is started from an external - electrolyte in the sections is impossible. In Maintenance free batteries
battery using a “cigarette lighter”, you need to this case, the battery condition can only be
13. This type of battery requires -
connect the batteries “plus to plus” and checked using a voltmeter or a battery status
significantly more time to fully charge than a
“minus to minus” (see “Starting the engine indicator.
standard type battery. Actual time depends
from an external battery”). You also need to 5. Some models are equipped with a on the degree of dilution and can be up to
connect an external charger to the battery. maintenance-free battery with a built-in three days
• Never disconnect the battery terminals, charge indicator. The indicator is located on 14. A constant voltage charger is required
alternator, any wires or control equipment - top of the battery case, and the charge level for charging. Once connected, it should be -
while the ignition is on or while the engine is of the battery can be determined by the color set to a voltage of 13.9 14 9 0 with a charging
running. of the indicator. If the indicator is green, the current of up to 25 amperes. In this way, the
• Do not allow the engine to turn the battery is well charged. If the indicator battery can be brought into working condition
generator when the generator is not darkens in some cases to black, this means within three hours. bringing its output voltage
connected. that the battery needs to be charged to 12 5 V, but this is only a partially charged
• Never check the operation of the (described in this subsection below). If the state. Full charging as above may require
generator by shorting its leads to ground. indicator turns blue, this means that the significantly more time.
• Never use an ohmmeter with a hand-held electrolyte level is below the permissible limit 15. If the battery should be charged from a
generator to test electrical circuits. and the battery must be replaced. completely discharged state (from the
• terminal of the battery from ground when
Caution: Do not attempt to charge, top up, or voltage at the terminals
working on the electrical system .
start the engine with another battery if the
• Before using electrical welding equipment
battery indicator is clear/yellow.
on a vehicle, disconnect the battery,
alternator, and components such as the 6. When testing the battery using a
electronic fuel injection/ignition control voltmeter, connect the voltmeter to the
module to protect them from the risk of battery terminals and compare the result with
damage. the voltage values specified in the “Technical
Data” section. under the heading “State of
2 Troubleshooting electrical charge” The test results will only be accurate
circuits - general information if the battery has not been charged within the
previous six hours. If this is not the case, turn
See Chapter on the headlights for 30 seconds, then wait
four to five minutes before testing the battery.
3 Battery - checking and charging All electrical consumers must be turned off;
in particular, check that the interior and trunk
doors are properly closed.
Examination 7. If the voltage shown by the voltmeter is
Standard and low-maintenance batteries 1. below 12 2 V, then the battery is discharged,
If the car has a low annual mileage, then it is the voltage is V. 12.2 to 12 4 V means
enough to check the density of the partially discharged state
electrolyte every three months to determine 8. For cumulato{
the state of charge of the battery Check the take it from the car (see subsection 4) and
density using a hydrometer and compare charge it as described below<? in this
the results with the table below Please note
paragraph
that the density is measured at 15 'C for
every 10'C below 15'C subtract 0 007 For Charging batteries
every 10'Above 15'C add 0 007 Note: The steps below should be considered
Above 25'C Below 25'C as a general guide only; Before you start
Fully charged charging, read the manufacturer's
1.210...1.230 1.270.. 1.290 70% instructions (usually included with the
battery) and follow their recommendations,
charge
even if they differ from those described in this
1.170...1.190 1.230... 1.250
book.
Discharged
Conventional and low
1.050... 1.070 1.110... 1.130
maintenance batteries
2. If the condition of the battery is
suspicious, first check the density of the 9. Charge the battery with a current of 3 5
electrolyte in each section. A difference of 4 amperes until. until the electrolyte density
0.040 or more between any sections stops increasing within four hours
10. Alternatively , you can leave the battery
indicates loss of electrolyte or destruction of
the internal plates. on a continuous recharge with a current of
3. If the density difference is 0.040 or more,1.5 amperes all night - this is completely safe
for the battery 11. Too fast forced charging,
the battery must be replaced. If the difference
between the sections is within normal limits, which allows you to restore the battery
but the battery is discharged, it must be capacity in 1-2 hours, is not recommended,
charged as indicated below in this paragraph since it can cause serious damage to the
battery plates -for overheating 12. At dawn ■
Maintenance free batteries ■ e
4. If a maintenance-free battery is installed Make sure that the electrolyte temperature
on the vehicle, checking the density of the never exceeds '37.8' C
Системы пуска и зарядки 5А • 3
4.4 Loosen the clamp bolt nut and disconnect

4.3a Remove the front part of the battery 1. 3b ...then remove the rear section the cable from the negative battery terminal
cover. .
4. Loosen the clamping bolt nut and until the window is completely closed.
below 12 2 V), it is recommended to entrust disconnect the wire from the negative -
11. On models with a sunroof, adjust the
this work to a battery specialist , since in this terminal of the battery (see illustration) sunroof drive mechanism as follows.
case the charge occurs at a high current and 5. Lift the release lever and connect the a) Set the switch to the full open position.
constant monitoring of the battery is required. wire from the positive terminal of the battery b) Keep the switch pressed for 1 second
4 Аккумулятор - снятие и after the sunroof has fully opened.
установка Removal
12. Disconnect the battery. described
Note 1: The audio system is factory installed above,
Connection
as standard equipment and is equipped with 13. On diesel models , remove the deflector
6. When connecting, first connect the installed in front of the battery casing by
a theft deterrent system . If the audio systempositive wire, and then the negative. After
has not been removed from the car, then turning its plastic lock 90* Remove the
connecting, lubricate the terminals with
when the power is turned off and on again, deflector from the front of the intake air ducts
petroleum jelly.
the system itself will enter the required 14. Squeeze the plastic clip on the battery
7. After connecting the battery, turn on the
security code. If the audio system is removed case and unhook it from the battery base [see
ignition and do not start the engine for more
from the original car, it will not work on illustration} Lift up the battery. to disengage
than one minute. During this time, the
another car. the lower mounting tabs, then remove the
electronic engine management system and
battery from its housing
Note 2: Do not disconnect the battery earlier control electronic components should
than 2 minutes after turning off the ignition stabilize. If equipped with an anti-theft alarm Installation
system, refer to Chapter 12. 15. Installation is carried out in the reverse
Battery 8. To restore the functions of the lock order of removal. Make sure that the battery
Disconnect mechanism, lock and unlock the rear door is correctly positioned in the housing.
9. Set the alarm and multifunction display Connect the battery as described above
1. The battery is located in the engine -
settings.
compartment in the left corner
10. Set the front power windows as follows: Battery case
2. P1 Before disconnecting the battery,
close the windows, sunroof and doors of the a) Press the control switch and open the Removal
car and make sure that the car alarm is window completely. 16. Remove the battery as described -
turned off (see "Owner's Manual" or Chapter b) Click the switch to close the window. The above. .
12) glass will begin to rise and then stop. 17. Depending on the model, remove the air
3. Remove the front part of the battery c) Click the switch again cleaner and/or air intake ducts to gain access
casing, then remove the back part (see to the battery housing.
illustrations} 18. Disconnect the air intake pipe from the
front part of the battery casing and remove
the wiring harness from the clamp on the
casing (see illustration ).
19. Remove the engine control system unit
from the battery casing. as described in
Chapter 4A or 4B. depending on car model
20. Remove the plastic partition located
4.18 Disconnect the air intake pipe from the

front of the battery casing
4. 14 Squeeze the plastic clip on the battery
case and unhook it from the battery base
ЗА • А Системы пуска и зарядки
4.20 Remove the plastic partition in front of 4.21a Remove the retaining ring of the wire inspection and repair
the power steering electrical unit (see connector... 4.21b ...then pull out the locking latch
illustration) 21. Disconnect the three WIRES
connectors from the power steering unit. To everything is in order, which means the 6 Generator drive belt -
disconnect the large connector, remove the generator is faulty . It should be replaced or removal, installation tension
locking ring, then pull out the locking latch sent to an auto electrician for inspection and
(see illustrations) 22. Unscrew the two bolts repair. 2. If the ignition indicator light -
Refer to the procedure described for the
securing the battery casing. Slide the continues to light after starting the engine,
accessory drive belt.
housing forward to disengage the rear turn off the engine and check whether the
devices in Chapter 1
mounting tabs, then remove the housing and alternator drive belt is well tensioned (see
power steering assembly from the engine Chapter 1) and whether the wires are 7 Generator -
compartment. securely connected to the alternator. If all this removal installation
is in order, take the generator to an auto
Installation electrician for inspection and repair.
23. '■ . ■ . : . [ ..goes backwards 3. If the indicator light is working normally,
Removal
new removal sequence. but the operation of the generator is in doubt,
check its output voltage as follows. 1. Disconnect the battery (see section 4)
5 Charging system - 4. Connect a voltmeter to the battery 2. Remove the accessory drive belt as
examination terminals and start the engine described in Chapter 1A or 1B
5. Increase engine speed until the voltmeter 3. Depending on the modification and type
readings become stable . the voltmeter of engine, unscrew three bolts and remove
should show from 12 to 13 V and not higher the auxiliary drive belt tensioning mechanism
Note: Before you begin, read the
than MV. (see illustration), or unscrew the bolts and
warnings in the “Safety First !” section .
6. Turn on as many of the car's electrical remove the bracket between the drive belt
and in subsection 1 of this Chapter.
appliances as possible: headlights, rear pulley.
1. If the ignition indicator light does not 4. Remove the rubber caps from the
window defogger, fan, etc., and check
light up when you turn on the ignition, first generator terminals, then unscrew the
whether the alternator supports a regulated
check the integrity of the alternator wiring retaining nut and disconnect the wiring from
voltage between 13 and 14 V.
connections. If the wiring is OK, check the rear of the generator (see illustrations)
7. If the regulated voltage is not as
whether the indicator light is burnt out and Release the wiring harness located around
specified, the causes of the malfunction may
whether the light bulb socket is securely the left side of the generator
be wear or weakening of the brush springs, a
fastened in the instrument panel. If the 5. Remove the generator mounting bolts
malfunction of the voltage regulator, a
indicator still does not light up, check for and, if present, the bolt securing the regulator
defective diode, a broken phase winding, or
integrity. indicator wires from the generator to bracket to the generator. Note that the left
worn or damaged stator winding. Replace.
the light bulb socket. If hand bolt(s) are self-centering and have
generator or take it to an auto electrician for
7.3 Unscrew the bolts (marked with 7.4 Remove the rubber caps using a lever 7.5 a Right-hand alternator mounting bolts
arrows ) of the accessory drive belt , then disconnect the wiring from the (marked with arrows )...
tensioning mechanism generator
Системы пуска и зарядки ЗА • з
4. If the battery and all connections are in

good condition, test the ignition switch circuit
by disconnecting the wire from the starter
solenoid relay terminal. Insert a voltmeter or
test light between the end of the wire and a
good ground (such as the negative terminal
of the battery) and check if there is voltage
on the wire when turning the ignition key to
start If yes, then the electrical circuit is
working, if not, see checking the circuit
headlights. If their brightness decreases after described in Chapter 12
7.50 and left-hand (marked by arrows) bolts a few seconds, this indicates that. that the 5. The contacts of the traction relay can be
battery is discharged - charge (see checked by connecting a voltmeter or test
UT taper and prok lanka (see illustration - subsection 3) or replace the battery. If the lamp between the positive terminal of the
illustration} To gain access to the lower left headlights are shining brightly, turn the battery connected to the starter winding and
mounting bolt, remove the A/C compressor ignition key to start and watch the lights. If theground. When you turn the ignition key to
bolts and move the compressor to the side headlights dim, this means that current is start, voltage should appear or the warning
(where designed ) Do not disconnect the A/C flowing to the starter, therefore, the fault must light should light up. If voltage does not
cooler pipes be in the starter itself. If the headlights appear, then the traction relay is faulty and
6. Remove the generator from its mounting continue to burn brightly (and the sound of must be replaced
brackets and remove it from the engine the traction relay is not heard), this means 6. If the circuit and traction relay are
compartment that the electrical circuit of the relay or the working properly, it means the starter is
relay itself is faulty - see the following points.faulty. In this case, you can have the starter
Installation If the starter turns slowly but the battery is in repaired, but at the same time ask about the
7. Installation is performed in sequence. good condition, this indicates that the starter prices - it may be more profitable to purchase
reverse to withdrawal. Tighten the left hand is bad or there is significant resistance in the a new or repaired one
bolts first, then the right hand bolts. Install circuit.
and tension the accessory drive belt as 3. If there is a suspicion of a malfunction in
indicated in Chapter 1A or 1B the electrical circuit, disconnect both wires
from the battery terminals, the electrical
8 Generator - wiring from the starter to the traction relay
checking and adjustment
and the power unit grounding bus located on Removal
top of the gearbox casing (see illustration}
1. Disconnect the battery (see under -
Clean the connections thoroughly and
If there is a suspicion that the generator is section 4)
reconnect, use a voltmeter
faulty, it must be removed from the car and 2. Since access to the starter is needed
given to an electrician for inspection. The from both above and below, apply the
only thing that can be done with a faulty parking brake, lift the front of the car and
generator at a reasonable price is to replace place it on supports. Remove the engine
the brushes. If you are offered a more serious crankcase protection (if equipped).
repair, find out the price. It is possible that Gasoline engines
purchasing a new or refurbished generator 3. Remove the air cleaner as described in
will cost you less Chapter 4A
9 Starting system - 4. Unscrew the two starter terminal nuts -
examination and remove the wires from them. Remove
the washers from under the nuts.
5. Remove the three starter mounting bolts
9.3 Location of the engine/gearbox
(two behind the starter and one that goes
Note: Before starting work, re-read the grounding bus (marked with an arrow) or a
through the transmission housing),
warnings given in the “Safety First!” section. test lamp and check for full battery voltage
supporting the starter as the bolts are
and in subsection 1 of this chapter. at the positive terminal of the traction relay
removed. Remove the washers from under
1. If the starter does not work when and good contact with ground. Lubricate
the bolts and note the location of all brackets
the ignition key is turned to the the battery terminals with petroleum jelly. to
that are secured with these bolts so that
appropriate position, there may be when installing them
the following reasons.
a) The engine immobilizer is faulty .
7.5c Left hand bolt(s) are self-centering and
have a taper and spacer c) Battery is faulty.
c) Some electrical connections in the ignition
switch, traction relay, and starter circuits
are not able to transfer large current from
the battery through the starter to ground.
b) The traction relay is faulty.
f) The starter motor has mechanical or prevent corrosion - oxidized connection is
electrical damage. the most common cause of electrical circuit
2. To check the battery, turn on the failures
5А • Б Системы пуска и зарядки
If there is a suspicion that the starter is washer (see illustrations), Be aware of oil
/0.5 Do not frighten the starter mounting bolts faulty, it must be removed from the car and leakage and, if the sensor is planned to be
( marked with arrows) (see illustration) given to an auto electrician for inspection. removed from the engine for a long time, plug
6. Remove the starter and pull it out from
The only thing that can be done with a faulty the hole in the cylinder block with a plug
under the vehicle. Remove the starter dowel
starter at a reasonable price is to Installation
pin (if installed) from the crankcase. replace the brushes. If you are -
4. Check that the sealing washer is not
Diesel engines offered a more serious repair , find
damaged. Replace it if necessary
out the price: it is possible that the -
Note: Access to the starter is extremely 5. Screw the sensor together with the
purchase a new or refurbished starter will
limited from above and below. To ensure washer
cost you less
proper access, various pipes, hoses, and
wiring harnesses will need to be 12 Ignition switch - 14 Oil level sensor -
removal and installation 5^
disconnected or moved aside. removal and installation
7. Remove the air cleaner and air intake -
ducts as described in Chapter 4B.
8. Referring to Chapter 4B, disconnect the The ignition switch is an integral part of the Removal
intermediate/rear exhaust pipe from the steering column lock and can be removed as 1. The sensor is located in the following
catalytic converter. described in Chapter 10 locations
9. On 16-valve engines, remember the Gasoline engines: On the front of the
location of the vacuum hose connectors on
13 Emergency oil pressure sensor cylinder block in the oil filter housing
the vacuum reservoir located under the - removal and installation Diesel engines: At the rear of the cylinder
starter. Disconnect the hoses, then unscrew block between cylinders 2 and 3
the two nuts and remove the tank. Removal 2. The procedure for removing and
10. Loosen and unscrew the two nuts and 1. The sensor is located at the front of the installing the level sensor is the same. as for
remove the wires from the starter solenoid cylinder block in the following positions: the oil pressure sensor, described above. It
relay terminals. Remove the washers from Gasoline engines: Screwed into the base of is easier to get to the sensor from below, from
under the nuts. Release the wiring harness the oil filter. under the car (see illustration)
from the clamps, then unscrew the bolt Diesel engines: Installed with oil level
securing the wiring support plate on the dipstick tube
starter (see illustrations) 11. Unscrew the Please note that on some models, -
three starter mounting bolts (two behind the access to the sensor may be improved
starter and one more that goes through the if the vehicle is lifted.
gearbox housing), supporting the starter -
rubbed as the bolts were removed. Remove
the washers from under the bolts and
remember the location of all the brackets that
are secured with these bolts so as not to
confuse them during installation (see
illustration 10.5)
3. .2 Oil level sensor (marked with arrow)
12. Move the exhaust system components
to the left and remove the starter from under
the engine. Remove the starter dowel pin (if
installed) from the crankcase.
13.3 Oil pressure sensor is located at the
Installation front of the cylinder block
13. Install the starter in the reverse order of
10.10b Unscrew the bolt (marked with an
removal. Be sure to insert the locating pins
arrow) securing the plate supporting the
and install the brackets under the starter
wiring to the starter and place it on supports
bolts.
so that you can reach the sensor from below.
10.10a Unscrew the two nuts (marked with
In this case, remove the engine protection (if
arrows) and disconnect the wires from the
installed).
starter
2. Remove the protective cover from the
11 Starter - electrical socket (where there is one), then
inspection and repair disconnect the sender wires
3. Unscrew the sensor from the firewood
cylinder block and remove the sealing
5В • 1
Chapter 5 Part B:
Ignition system - petrol models
Content
Ignition system - general information ........................................ 1 Knock sensor - removal and installation ................................... 5
Ignition system - check ............................................................. 2 Checking the ignition system components, see Chapter 1A
Ignition coil module - removal, inspection and installation 3 Spark plugs see Chapter
Ignition timing - checking and adjusting 4 1A

Are common Contactless electronic system controlled by engine
System type ............................................. ....................... management system
1-E-4-2 (First cylinder from the box side
Cylinder operating order gears)
See technical data in Chapter 1
Spark plug .......................................... ........... _____ ..... Controlled by electronic engine management system
Setting the ignition timing. .
N/m
20
Knock Sensor Clamp Bolt ................................................
1 Ignition system - wall of the cylinder block. It reacts to high- or dealer for an instrumental check. If a
general information frequency vibration that accompanies malfunction really exists, then the ECU self-
detonation. When detonation occurs, the diagnosis system has detected this
sensor sends a signal to the control system malfunction and entered its code into its
unit, which reduces the ignition timing until memory. The fault code can be retrieved
The ignition system is integrated with the
the detonation disappears from the ECU memory using a special device
fuel injection system and forms a single
- a code reader that is connected to the
engine management system under the
control of a single electronic unit (for more
2 Ignition system - Diagnostic connector of your car, located
examination above the fuse box on the passenger side
information, see Chapter 4A)
(see illustration} The code reader allows you
The distributorless ignition system -
to find the location of the fault easily and
includes an ignition coil module with four
Warning! The voltage generated quickly, without resorting to the tedious -
outputs. which is installed on top of the
cylinder head. The ignition coils are
connected directly to the spark plugs. This
A
by the electronic ignition system
is significantly higher than that of a
procedure of sequentially checking systems
and wires (which is also dangerous for the
ECU)
eliminates the need for high voltage wires. conventional system. When the ignition
3. The only thing a car owner can check in
Ignition coils operate on the “idle spark” system is turned on, extreme caution must be
his garage is the spark plugs (see Chapter
principle, that is, during a full engine cycle, taken. Persons with an implanted pacemaker
1A). You can, of course, also check the
each spark plug produces two sparks: once should stay away from the ignition circuit, its
condition of the connectors and wires. as
at the end of the compression stroke, and the components and test equipment.
indicated in Chapter 12, having previously
second time at the end of the exhaust stroke. 1. If there is a malfunction in the ignition/fuel disconnected the ECU connector
The flash during the exhaust stroke does not supply control system . First of all, make
affect the operation of the engine and is sure. that it is not the result of poor contacts
therefore called “idle”. The ECU, based on or careless maintenance Check the condition
signals from various sensors, determines the of the air filter, spark plugs, crankcase
required ignition timing and the period the coil ventilation hoses (see Chapter 1 A). If the
is on. During idling, the ECU can change the engine is very unstable, check the
ignition timing for stable engine operation compression in the cylinders (see Chapter
The ignition system also includes a knock 2A).
sensor. The knock sensor is located on the 2. If these checks do not reveal the cause
rear of the malfunction, contact a service station
2.2 Diagnostic connector is located above

the fuse box on the passenger side
5В • 2 Система зажигания - бензиновые модели
3.1а Отсоедините шланг сапуна дви-

гателя от впускного воздуховода воз- 3.1Ь ... клапанной крышки (отмечено 3.1с... и впускного коллектора (отме-
духоочистителя... стрелкой)... чено стрелкой)
with an arrow) from the coil module
2. 3a Unscrew the nut (marked with an

3.2 Disconnect the wire connector from the arrow ) securing the module and remove the
ignition coil module
ground wire of the spruce rack.., purge from 3.3...and the purge valve on the right
(marked with an arrow) ignition pillar Remove
3 Модуль катушки the coil module from the spark plugs and
зажигания - remove it from the engine compartment
снятие, проверка и установка
Examination
Removal the right rack (see illustrations) 10. The design of the ignition circuits on
4. Remove the ignition coil module from the these engines is such that checking the
1.1 and 1.4 liter engines stand and at the same time carefully slide the ignition coils separately from the other -
1. Disconnect the engine breather hose module off the tops of the spark plugs. circuits and the engine electronic control
from the snap connector on the air cleaner Remove the coil module from the spark plugs system unit will not reveal a malfunction.
inlet duct, valve cover and intake manifold and remove it from the engine compartment Therefore, if a malfunction of the ignition coil
(see illustrations). Move the hose to the side. (see illustration) module is suspected, the entire engine
2. Disconnect the drive connector from the control system must be checked, which can
1.6 liter engines
top of the ignition coil module ( see only be done by the manufacturer’s
5. Remove the six screws and plastic coil
illustration] Release the wiring harness from representatives or a qualified a specialist with
module cover from the top of the engine,
the clamps on the coil appropriate diagnostic equipment (see
between the camshaft housings.
3. Remove the nuts securing the edges of subsection 2)
the coil module to the support posts. Note
left edge of the coil module (see illustration) Installation
that the post may be removed from its
7. Squeeze the clamps and disconnect the 11. Installation is performed in the reverse
location along with the nut. Remove the
two breather hoses from the housing order of removal. Make sure the wires are
ground wire from the left post and the valve.
between the camshafts (see illustration) connected correctly.
8. Unscrew the four coil module mounting
screws (see illustration).
9. Remove the ignition coil module from the
stand and at the same time carefully slide the
module off the tops of the spark plugs.
1. 4.Then slide the coil module off the tops

of the spark plugs and remove it from the
engine compartment.
3.6 Disconnect the wire connector (marked

5В • 2 Система зажигания - бензиновые модели
3.7 Squeeze the clips (marked with arrows)

and disconnect the breather hoses
Система зажигания - бензиновые модели 5В • 3
4 Ignition timing - 5 Knock sensor -

inspection and regulation removal and installation
1. The engine design does not

provide timing marks on the flywheel or Removal
crankshaft pulley . therefore, the car owner 1. The knock sensor is screwed into the
cannot check or change the set advance in a rear surface of the cylinder block.
garage. 2. To access the sensor, apply the parking
2. The advance is controlled by the engine brake, raise the front of the car and place it
control system unit, so the initial advance can on reliable supports. Remove the crankcase 3.8 Unscrew the four mounting bolts (marked
only be checked using a special device that protection from under the engine. with arrows) of the ignition coil module
is connected to the diagnostic connector of 3. Trace the transmitter wiring to the
the system (see Chapter 4 A). connector and disconnect it from the main - Installation
wiring harness 5 Install the sensor in the reverse order of
4. Remove the sensor mounting bolt and removal. Tighten the sensor mounting bolt to
remove the sensor from the cylinder block. the required torque
5B • a For notes
5С • П
Chapter 5 Part C:
Pre-heating system - diesel models
Content
Pre-heating system - description and verification 1 Pre-heating system control unit - removal and installation
Glow plugs - removal, inspection and installation .................... 2 .................................................................. 3

Glow plugs
Average resistance. . ........................ < 10m
Type , , ...................................... MSKUE04
Tightening torques for threaded connections Н/м

Glow plugs 10
1 Pre-heating system - the temperature at which the engine can Engines with 16 valves
description and verification start, the light goes out, but the spark plugs
a) Remove the air cleaner assembly and air
continue to receive power until the engine
intake ducts as described in Chapter 4B.
starts. If no attempt is made to start the
Description b) Remove the exhaust gas recirculation
engine within 10 seconds , power to the
pipe as described in Chapter 4C.
1. To facilitate cold starting, diesel engines spark plugs is turned off to prevent the
c) Unscrew the securing nut and bolt and
are equipped with a preheating system. It battery from draining and burning out the
remove the air cleaner support bracket
includes four glow plugs (but one per spark plugs.
from the rear of the cylinder head.
cylinder), a spark plug control unit (on later 4. On models with electronic fuel injection
models, combined with an electronic engine described in this manual, the glow plug 8. Disconnect the power cable and all
control system unit), an indicator light on the jumpers from the spark plugs. Be careful not
control unit is controlled by the engine control
dashboard, a sensor coolant temperature in system unit. The engine control unit to damage the nuts and washers.
the cylinder head, ambient temperature determines the required preheating time 9. Using a tester or a 12-volt test light
sensor, as well as the wires connecting them. depending on external conditions detected connected to the positive terminal of the
2. The glow plug is a miniature heating by sensors. battery, check for voltage between the spark
element placed in a metal casing, with a 5. Post-start heating begins immediately plug contacts and ground. The glow plug
power supply terminal. One spark plug is after starting the engine, but if the ambient resistance is normally very low (less than 1
screwed into each cylinder. The tips of the temperature is below 20°C and if the engine ohm) If the test light does not light up or the
glow plugs are located directly opposite the speed is below 2000 rpm. Glow plugs tester shows high resistance. then the spark
jet of the injector. When the spark plug is continue to heat up for no more than 60 plug is defective
turned on, it heats up quickly and contributes seconds, helping to ignite the mixture as the 10. Further checking can be done by
to the rapid evaporation of the fuel that is engine warms up, smoother engine unscrewing the spark plug and inspecting it,
injected onto it from injectors Part of the fuel operation and reduced emissions as described in the next subsection. Finally,
ignites upon contact with the spark plug, install the components removed for access
which accelerates the ignition process Examination during the inspection in accordance with the
3. The preheating system begins to operate 6. If the preheating system malfunctions, indicated chapters
immediately after turning the ignition key to then the most effective way to check it is to 2. Glow plugs -
the second position, but only if the ambient replace the elements with known good ones. removal, inspection and installation
temperature is below 20 = C and if the At the same time. Some preliminary checks
crankshaft is turned at a speed of more than may be helpful.
70 rpm for 0.2 seconds. An indicator light on 7. To provide access to the glow plugs Caution: If the heating system has just been
the front panel lights up to notify the driver. during inspection, remove the following turned on or the engine has just been
that the preheating process has begun . components, according to the model: running, the spark plugs may be very hot.
Once the spark plugs have warmed up to
8 valve engines Removal
a) Remove the valve cover/manifold as 1. To obtain the necessary access
5С • г Система предпускового подогрева - дизельные модели
2.2 Unscrew the nuts (marked with arrows) 3 Heating system control unit -
securing the connectors of the spark plug cylinder head following precautions: removal and installation.
wires to the spark plugs , remove from the a) Clamp the spark plug in a vice or self-
engine the equipment specified in subsection tightening wrench. Keep in mind that the
1 for each modification - candle is red hot. Removal
2. Unscrew the nuts of the spark plug c) Power to the spark plug must be supplied 1. The block is located behind
power terminals and remove the washers through a fuse to avoid trouble in the the left headlight under the car
{see. illustration ) Be careful not to damage event of a short circuit. bumper
the nuts and washers. Remove the power c) After checking, allow the candle to cool for 2. Disconnect the battery (see
wire and jumper from the spark plug a few minutes before handling it. Chapter 5A).
contacts. 8. A working candle should glow red hot, 3. Remove the front bumper and left
3. If necessary, to improve access to the starting from the tip, in about 5 seconds. If the headlight as described in (chapters 11 and
spark plugs, move all interfering hoses and candle takes too long to heat up or the central 12, respectively
wires to the side. part of the candle, rather than the tip, begins 4. Unscrew the two terminal nuts and
4. Remove the spark plugs from the - to glow, this indicates a malfunction. disconnect the power wires from the block.
cylinder heads
Then disconnect the electrical connector of
Examination Installation the block (see illustration)
9. Install the spark plug in the reverse order 5. Unscrew the lock nut securing the block
5. Inspect each spark plug and make sure
there is no mechanical damage. If there are of removal. Apply a little copper-based to the mounting bracket, then remove the
traces of soot or erosion on the spark plug, compound to the threads of the spark plug to block from under the front fender
this may indicate a distortion of the injector prevent the threaded connections from
jet. If the spark plug has a similar seizing. Screw the spark plug into the Installation
malfunction, check the injector cylinder head and tighten it to the required
force. Do not overtighten the spark plug as 6. Installation is performed in the reverse
6. If the glow plugs are in good condition, order of removal. Make sure the wires are
check for internal breaks using a test light or this can damage it.
10. Reinstall any components removed for connected correctly. Install the front bumper
tester (see previous subsection).
access. and headlight as described in chapters 1-1
7. Apply 12 V voltage to the spark plug and
and 12, respectively .
make sure that the spark plug heats up 3.4 Electrical connectors and heater relay
evenly and within the specified period of time. box connector
2.4 Unscrew the spark plugs from the
6•1
Chapter 6
Clutch
Content
General information . ... ................................... 1 Clutch - removal, inspection and installation 6 Clutch release
Clutch drive hydraulic system - bleeding ................................. 2 mechanism - removal, inspection and installation.
Clutch master cylinder - removal and installation 3 General check. see Chapter 1A or 1B
Clutch slave cylinder - removal and installation. 4
11 installation units - removal and installation. . 5

Тип
Все модели Однодисковое, сухое, с диафрагменной пружиной и
гидравлическим приводом
Гидравлический
Clutch drive
All models
Disc diameter
Gasoline models:
1 1 and 1 4 liters ........ 180 мм
I 6 liters . 200 мм
Diesel models.
8 valve engines 200 мм
Engines with 16 valves 230 мм
Tightening torques for threaded connections Н/м

Pressure plate mounting bolts:
II and 1 4-liter petrol models. 12
1 6 petrol models .................................................... 20
Diesel models.. ............................................................. 20
1 General information from the driven disk to the input shaft of the pressure plate spring. This causes the
gearbox. springs to transmit force to the pressure -
To disengage the clutch, it is necessary to plate.
soften the spring force. This is ensured by the On all models, the clutch drive
presence of a release bearing mounted on mechanism is self-adjusting and does not
The clutch consists of a driven (friction)
the input shaft. The bearing moves to the require manual adjustment
disc, pressure plate, release bearing and
pressure plate under the influence of a
clutch release fork. All elements are enclosed
pressure fork driven by the clutch slave 2 Hydraulic system of the
in a large cast bell-shaped housing made of clutch drive - bleeding
cylinder pusher.
aluminum alloy, installed between the engine The clutch pedal is connected to the
and gearbox. All models are equipped with a master cylinder by a short pusher. The
hydraulic clutch drive, consisting from the master cylinder is installed on the engine side Warning: Hydraulic fluid is toxic;
main and working hydraulic cylinders
connected by a pipeline.
The driven disk is installed between the
on the partition of the engine compartment on
the driver's side and is fed from the brake A If liquid gets on your skin, wash it off
immediately with clean water. If liquid is
master cylinder reservoir. Pressing the clutch swallowed or comes into contact with eyes,
engine flywheel and the clutch pressure plate pedal moves the master cylinder piston consult a doctor. Some brands of hydraulic
and has a spline connection to the gearbox forward and hydraulic fluid is forced through fluid are flammable and may catch fire if they
input shaft the clutch hydraulic tube to the slave cylinder. come into contact with hot components;
The pressure plate is located in a housing When fluid enters, the slave cylinder piston When servicing any hydraulic system, it is
that is bolted to the engine flywheel. When moves and acts on the release fork using a safe to assume that the fluid is flammable
the engine is running, rotation is transmitted short pusher. The release fork rotates on its and take precautions against ignition, as is
from the crankshaft through the flywheel to support, and its other end moves the release the case with gasoline. Hydraulic fluid
the driven disk (these parts are securely bearing towards the
pressed together using the pressure plate)
and
6•г Сцепление
indicates the presence of air in the system. described in subsection 2.

7. Finally, remove the bleed tube and place c) Install components removed for access
the dust cap on the fitting. If necessary, add according to the instructions in the
fluid to the master cylinder reservoir and chapters.
install the cap. Liquid bled from the system.
4 Clutch slave cylinder -
no longer usable due to moisture
penetration. air and dirt.
3 Clutch master cylinder - Note: Before starting work, refer to the

removal and installation warning about the unsafe liquid at the
beginning of subsection 2.
Note: Before starting work, refer to the Removal
2.3 Remove the dust cap from the pressure
warning about the unsafe liquid at the
relief fitting. We are also a solvent and 1. To reduce hydraulic fluid loss, remove
beginning of subsection 2.
aggressive to plastics; If liquid is spilled, it the master cylinder reservoir filler cap, then
should be washed off immediately with place a piece of plastic film under the cap and
Removal tighten it over the filler neck to create an
sufficient water. When adding or replacing
fluid in the hydraulic system, make sure it is 1. Remove the driver's side lower fascia airtight seal.
of the correct type and that the fluid has not panel as described in Chapter 11. 2. To absorb spilled fluid, place a rag under
been left in an open container for a long time. 2. On left-hand drive models, remove the the clutch slave cylinder, which
battery and cover. as described in Chapter
1. PREPARE!'? A CLEAN container that fits 5A.
a suitable rubber or plastic hose that matches 3. Press the clutch pedal until the end of the
the type of fluid and can be placed over the master cylinder pushrod is visible through the
pressure bleeder fitting on the slave cylinder. hole in the pedal bracket. Using a
You will need outside help (If you have a screwdriver, remove the end of the pusher
brake bleed kit, it can also be used to bleed from the pedal pin (see illustration 5.2)
the clutch hydraulic system. Detailed 4. To reduce hydraulic fluid loss, remove
information on use of the kit is described in the brake master cylinder reservoir filler cap,
Chapter 9) then place a piece of plastic film under the
2. Remove the filler cap of the master cap and tighten it onto the filler neck to create
cylinder reservoir. And. if necessary, add an airtight seal .
fluid. During further operations, maintain the 5. To absorb spilled fluid, place a rag under
full level in the tank. the clutch master cylinder tube connectors in
3. Remove the dust cap from the slave the engine compartment.
cylinder pressure bleeder located on the 6. injection tube from the clamps on the
lower front surface of the gearbox (see engine compartment bulkhead , then remove
illustration] the retaining bracket and disconnect the tube
4. Connect the bleeder tube to the pressure from the main cylinder ( see illustration^ Plug
release fitting, and insert the other end of the the tube to prevent fluid loss and dirt
tube into a container with hydraulic fluid, penetration.
immersing the tube in the fluid 7. Disconnect the fluid supply hose from the
master cylinder and plug it 8. Turn: - the
5. Open the fitting half a turn and have an
sewing cylinder 90' clockwise and remove it
assistant press and immediately release the
from the partition of the engine compartment
clutch pedal. Continue this procedure until
(see illustration)
liquid without air bubbles appears from the
tube. After this, tighten the fitting while the Installation
pedal is in the lower depressed position. 9. Installation is carried out in the reverse
Make sure that the fluid level in the master order of removal, including the following
cylinder reservoir has not dropped suddenly
points
by letting air into the system.
6. Check the action of the clutch pedal . a) Make sure the clamps are secured
After a few presses, the pedal travel should correctly.
return to normal. Intermittent movement b) Bleed the clutch hydraulic system as
3.8 Поверните главный цилиндр на 90’

3.6 Снимите фиксирующую скобу и от- по часовой стрелке и снимите его с 4.4 Извлеките фиксирующую скобу
соедините трубку от главного перегородки моторного отсека гидравлической трубки
цилиндра
Б•а Сцепление
4.5 Unscrew two bolts (marked with arrows) Examination

and remove the clutch working cylinder
located on the lower front surface of the
Installation Note: Given the amount of work required
7. Lubricate the pedal pivot bolt with multi- when removing and installing a clutch, it is
gearbox 11 prepare for loss of fluid from the
purpose grease, then install the pedal into usually recommended to replace the drive
hydraulic system
the bracket and insert the pivot bolt. Install plate, pressure plate and throwout bearing at
3. To provide the necessary access ,
and tighten the swivel bolt nut securely. the same time, even if only one unit is worn
release the wiring harness from the clamps
8. Connect the auxiliary spring to the or damaged. It is also recommended to
and move it away from the slave cylinder.
bracket and pedal preventively change clutch parts if the power
4. Remove the Fixing Bracket and connect
9. Press the pedal two or three times and unit is removed for repairs for other reasons.
the hydraulic pipe from the working cylinder
check the function of the clutch release
{see. illustration) Plug the tube to prevent - 5. before cleaning clutch parts . outlined at
mechanism.
fluid loss and dirt penetration the beginning of this subsection, remove dust
10. Install the face console bottom panel as
5. Unscrew the two bolts and remove the using a clean, dry cloth and working in a well-
working cylinder from the gearbox housing ( ventilated area.
see illustration) 6 Clutch - 6. Check for wear, damage or oiling of the
removal, inspection and installation friction
Installation
6. Installation of the working cylinder is -
carried out in the reverse order of removal, Warning: Dust resulting from clutch
including the following points: a) Apply a
small amount of Mo1uko1e BP2 P1iz A lining wear and covering clutch
components may contain asbestos,
lubricant to the end of the working cylinder which is hazardous to health. DO NOT blow
pusher. it out with compressed air or inhale the dust.
b) Bleed the clutch hydraulic system as DO NOT use gasoline or other gasoline-
described in subsection 2. based solvents to remove dust. Use brake
cleaner or methyl alcohol to wash off the dust
5 Clutch pedal - into a suitable container. Then wipe the
removal and installation coupling parts with clean rags and store them
in a properly marked, closed container. 6.3 Unscrew the bolts (marked with arrows)
of the pressure plate
Note: Most friction materials no longer
contain asbestos, but to be safe, assume
Removal they do and take appropriate precautions.
1. Remove the driver's side lower
fascia panel as described in Chapter Removal
11 1. If it is not intended to remove the engine
2. Press the clutch pedal to the and transmission components for overhaul
position . when the end of the master cylinder (see Chapter 2C), access to the clutch can
pushrod is visible through the hole in the be achieved by removing the gearbox,
pedal bracket. Using a screwdriver, remove
the end of the pushrod from the pedal pin 1. 4 The clutch pedal pivot bolt (marked
(see illustration) with an arrow) is also the brake pedal pivot
bolt as described in Chapter 7A
3. Lightly compress the auxiliary spring with
a screwdriver and remove it from the pedal 2. Before you begin disassembling the
and bracket clutch, mark with a felt-tip pen the relative
4. Unscrew the nut of the clutch pedal - positions of the flywheel and the pressure
swivel bolt and remove the bolt (see plate housing
3. Working in a diagonal sequence ,
illustration) Note that the bolt is also rotary for
the brake pedal. unscrew the pressure plate housing bolts
5. Remove the clutch pedal from the one by one, each time unscrewing the bolt no
bracket and remove the bushing from the more than half a turn until the spring pressure
pedal pivot support weakens and the bolts can be turned out by
hand (see illustration )
1. 2 Remove the end of the pushrod from 4. Remove the pressure plate housing from
the pedal pin the mounting pins and remove the driven
6. Check the condition of the pedal, swivel disk, noting its location .
bushing and helper spring. Replace
damaged or worn components as necessary.
Сцепление Б•з
15. Now you should center the driven disk

so that when installing the gearbox, the
splines of the input shaft fit into the splines of
the central hub of the disk
16. Alignment can be accomplished by
inserting a round rod or long screwdriver
through the hole in the center of the driven
disk into the hole in the end of the crankshaft.
By moving the rod, you can move the driven
disk to achieve its centering. You can use a
special centering mandrel, which can be
6.13 Install the driven disk so that the damper assembly . entirely 10. Inspect the working found in automotive supply stores (see
springs are on the side opposite to the surfaces of the pressure plate and flywheel illustration)
flywheel linings of the driven disk. If the bearings; they should be clean, flat and free A similar device can be made by yourself
linings are cracked, chipped or scored, if they of scratches or burrs. If grooves or cracks made entirely of a metal rod or wooden
are burnt or damaged, or if they have oil due to overheating are found on any of them, cylinder , which is tightly inserted into the
contamination (in the form of shiny black then such a unit must be replaced. Minor hole at the end of the crankshaft. If
spots) , the driven disk should be replaced damage can sometimes be removed with necessary, you can wrap insulating tape
7. If the linings can still be used , check that sanding paper. around the rod to adjust
the splines are not worn, that the damper 11. Make sure that the release bearing «®0ЕТЫ the diameter of the
springs are in good condition and that they rotates easily and smoothly , without noise or ЭКСПЕРТА device to the diameter of
are securely fastened, and that all the rivets jamming. Make sure. that its surface is the hole in the disk hub.
of the friction linings of the disc are in their smooth, not worn, without signs of cracking,
places. If wear or defects are detected, the scuffing and pitting. If the condition of the 17. When . And . । -
driven disk must also be replaced. bearing is cause for concern. it should be yen gradually tighten the bolts in a diagonal
8. If the friction linings are contaminated replaced. sequence to the required torque
with oil, it is necessary to inspect the cuffs 18. Apply a thin layer of lubricant based on
and other oil seals. The left crankshaft oil Installation molybdenum disulfide (manufacturers
seal, the connection between the pan and the 12. Before installation, wash and dry the recommend! Mo!uko!e BA2 P1is) on the
crankcase, or the gearbox input shaft oil seal working surfaces of the flywheel and splines of the input shaft of the gearbox and
may be leaking. Before. how to install a new pressure plate. Before installing new parts, the grooves of the driven disk, as well as on
driven disk, it is necessary to replace the wash off the protective grease from them with the shaft of the release bearing and fork
defective seal (see the relevant part of a suitable solvent. 19. V gearbox (see
Chapter 2 or 7) 13. Install the driven disk so that the Chapter 7A)
9. Check for significant wear or damage to damper springs are on the side opposite the
the pressure plate and shake it to check for flywheel. Marks may be placed on the disk 7 Clutch release mechanism -
loose rivets or worn or damaged support indicating its orientation (see illustration) removal, inspection and installation
rings. Make sure. there are no signs of 14. Install the pressure plate assembly by
overheating (dark yellow or blue) on the drive aligning the marks made during disassembly Note: Refer to the precautions regarding
bars securing the pressure plate to the (if installing an old disk) and slide it onto the asbestos dust hazards at the beginning of
casing. If the diaphragm spring is worn or dowel pins. Install the pressure plate bolts, Section 7.
damaged or its force has decreased, it is but only tighten them lightly so that the plate
necessary to replace the pressure plate can move
7.2a Squeeze the latches and remove the 7.2 b... remove the gasket (marked with an 7.2s ...then unscrew the support post
press fork... arrow)
Б•а Сцепление
illustrations) of concern, it should be replaced.

5. Inspect the working surface of the
release bearing and the contact points
between the release fork and the swivel ball
joint. Replace damaged or worn
components.
Installation
6. some molybdenum disulfide-based
lubricant to the axle bushings and clutch fork
contact surfaces.
10. Disconnect the bearing and you press 7. Insert the outer end of the release fork
the fork 7.9 Make sure that the latches (marked with
arrows) are properly engaged with the through the rubber boot into the gearbox
release fork housing
Removal 8. Connect the release fork rod to the
1. If it is not intended to remove the engine 3. Remove the release bearing from the release bearing, then place the bearing on
and transmission components for major guide tube and disconnect the release fork the guide tube.
repairs (see Chapter 2C). Access to the - rod (see illustration ). 9. Place a spacer over the ball joint latches,
clutch release mechanism can be achieved then slide the release fork onto the post,
by removing the gearbox . as described in Inspection making sure the latches engage the fork
Chapter 7 A 4. Make sure the release bearing rotates correctly (see illustration )
2. After removing the gearbox, squeeze the easily and smoothly . no noise or jamming. 10. Install the gearbox as described in
latches and remove the release fork from the Make sure that its surface is smooth, not Chapter 7A
rotary ball joint . Remove the gasket, if
worn, and without signs of cracking. scuffing
provided by the design. Unscrew the support
and pitting. If the condition of the bearing is
stand from the gearbox housing (see
B • 6 For notes
7А•Л
Chapter 7 Part A
Manual Transmission
Content
General information .................................... 1 Reversing light switch - checking, removal and installation. 5
Transmission oil draining and filling. 2 Speedometer drive - removal and installation 6
Gear shift mechanism - removal and installation 3 Manual gearbox - removal and installation 7
Oil seals - replacement ............. 4 Manual transmission repair - general information 8
Checking the oil level in the gearbox, see Chapter 1A or 1B

Total information Mechanical five-speed (five forward and one rear) All forward
gears are synchronized
Type
MA 5
Designation Gasoline models ... . .,
Diesel models
MA 5
8 valve engines ...........................
Engines with 16 valves BE 4/5
Gearbox code
Gasoline models
20SR14
I 1 liter engines ...................................................... ..... .......
20SE15, 20SE16
14 liter engines .............................................................. ..
20Сы40
1 6 liter engines . . ........................ .... ........
Diesel Models 8 Valve Engines ... ............ ............................ 20SPZZ. 20С№6
Engines with 16 valves .......................................................... 20OM25. 20OM26
Note: The gearbox code is printed on the front side of the clutch housing or gearbox housing
Lubrication
Volume ... ............................................. .... ............... 2.0 литра
Recommended type of lubricant... См «Смазки и жидкости»
Gearbox MA 5
Clutch release bearing guide bolts 12
Engine to gearbox bolts
Gasoline models ......................... ... 40
Diesel models ................................................................................. 45
Shift Lever Mounting Nuts ....................................................... 8
Left engine/transmission mount See Chapter 2A or 2B
Drain plug. . .. ........................... 25
Fill/check transmission fluid level plug 25
Rear Support Attachment See Chapter 2A or 2B
Reversing light switch 25
Wheel bolts ..................................................................................... 90
Speedometer drive gear bracket ....................................................... 10
Gearbox BE 4/5
Clutch release bearing guide bolts 12
Engine to gearbox mounting bolts. 45
Shift Lever Mounting Nuts 8
Left engine/transmission mount See Chapter 2B
Drain plug.......................................................................................... 35
Fill/check transmission fluid level plug 20
Attaching the rear support . See Chapter 2B
Reversing light switch .................................. .................................... 25
Wheel bolts 90
Speedometer drive casing bolts 15
Механическая коробка передач 7 А • 3
1 General information and a gear selection mechanism (see protection, depending on the model.
illustration). The selector rods/cables cause To maintain accuracy in checking
the corresponding yoke to move, which the oil level, the car must be
moves the synchronized clutch along the installed horizontally.
shaft, engaging it with the teeth of the 3. To improve access to the drain
1. The gearbox is mounted in a cast
corresponding gear. Since the coupling has plug/transmission oil level check, remove the
aluminum alloy housing, bolted to the engine
a permanent spline connection to the main plastic rivets and remove the left front wheel
on the left, and consists of the gearbox itself
shaft, it transmits rotation to the shaft. To arch protection
and the differential, often called the drive ensure smooth and quiet gear shifting, all 4. Wipe the area around the transmission
axle. front gears are equipped with synchronizers, oil drain /level plug, located on the left side of
2. Rotation from the engine crankshaft is consisting of brake rings, spring pins, gears the gearbox, next to the side cover. Unscrew
transmitted through the clutch friction disc to and synchro couplings. Synchronizing cones the transmission oil drain/level plug and
the input shaft. which rotates in sealed ball are formed by the machined surfaces of remove the seal (see illustrations}
bearings. From the primary shaft, rotation is brake rings and gears. 5. Place a suitable container under the
transmitted to the output (secondary) shaft. 5. There are two types of manual drain plug (located at the rear of the gearbox)
the right end of which rotates in a roller transmissions used on the models covered in and unscrew the plug. On MA 5 gearboxes
bearing, and the left end in a closed ball this manual; All petrol and diesel models with the plug is located on the left on the
bearing. From the output shaft, rotation is 8 valves are equipped with a MA 5 gearbox, differential housing: on BE 4/5 gearboxes it is
transmitted to the ring gear rotating in the while diesel engines with 16 valves are located at the base of the differential housing
differential housing, and to the planetary equipped with a BE 4/5 gearbox. (see illustrations)
gears driving the bevel gears of the drive 6. Drain the oil completely into a prepared
2 Gear oil -
shafts. The rotation of the planetary gears on drain and fill container. If the oil is hot, take precautions
their shaft allows the inner wheel to rotate against scalding. Wipe the drain and oil level
slower than the outer one when turning the plugs, paying special attention to removing
Note: On some models, a square wrench
car. metal shavings from the built-in magnets.
must be used to unscrew the drain
3. The primary and secondary shafts are The sealing washers are replaced without
plug/check the transmission oil level. These
installed parallel to the axis of the engine any conditions whenever the plugs are
keys can be purchased at the branded chain
crankshaft and the axes of the drive shafts so unscrewed.
of stores.
that the gear teeth of the primary and 7. After the oil has drained, clean the
secondary shafts are in constant mesh. In the 1. This procedure is easier to carry out if
threads on the drain plug and in the hole for
neutral position, the gears of the secondary you first warm up the oil in the gearbox to
the plug in the gearbox housing, install new
shaft rotate freely on its axis, thereby normal operating temperature after driving
seals and tighten the plug to the specified
eliminating the possibility of transmitting the car for a certain distance.
torque. Install the engine protection and
rotation to the ring gear differential wheel. 2. Turn off the ignition and apply the
lower the car to the ground.
4. Gear selection is carried out using a gear handbrake. Jack up the front of the car and
8. Filling a gearbox with oil is an extremely
shift lever mounted on the floor of the cabin install the axle supports. If necessary,
inconvenient operation. First of all, it takes a
unscrew the bolts and remove the engine
significant amount of time for the oil to spread
inside the box in order to measure the level
correctly. In this case, the car must be in a
strictly horizontal position while checking the
oil level.
1.4 Рычаг и механизм переключения передач

1 Рычаг переключения передач и кожух 4 Тросики
2 Рукоятка рычага переключения 5 Переключающие тяги
передач 6 Гайки
3 Кронштейн 7 Подковообразные зажимы
Механическая коробка передач 7 А • 3
9. Fill the gearbox with the correct amount

of the appropriate gear oil, then check the
level as described in the appropriate part of
Chapter 1. If the correct amount of oil is filled
, but oil leaks out when checking the level,
screw in the plug and drive the vehicle for a
short time to distribute the oil around gearbox
components. Then check the level again.
After stabilizing the oil level, install the wheel
arch protection (if provided for by the design)
3 Mechanism
gear shift - removal and installation 2.5a Plug (marked with an arrow) for oil 2.5b Oil drain plug (BE 4/5 gearbox)
drain (MA 5 gearbox)
Removal in the floor when they are moved to their
1. Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of Installation original positions.
the car and install the axle supports (see 12. Installation is carried out in the reverse b) Lubricate the hinges before installation.
"Lifting the car with a jack and installing order of removal, including the following c) Adjustment of the gear shift cables is not
SUPPORTS")
points: possible.
2. Remove the center console as described
in Chapter 11 a) Tie the ropes to make it easier to thread
3. Unscrew the four nuts securing the gear them through the hole
shift housing to the floor (see illustration)
4. Remove the air cleaner assembly and air
intake ducts as described in Chapter 4A or
4B
5. Remove the battery and its cover as
described in Chapter 5A.
6. When working in the engine
compartment, remember the starting
positions and carefully remove the two cable
swivels from the selector levers on the
gearbox. 3.8 a Squeeze the horseshoe clamps and
7. Working under the vehicle, remove those pry up the cable
front exhaust heat shield clips and place the 3.3 Unscrew the four nuts (marked with
heat shield on the exhaust pipe. arrows) securing the gear shift lever
8. Using a small screwdriver, squeeze the housing to the floor
horseshoe clamps, then release the cables
from the support bracket by prying or pulling
them up (see illustrations)
9. Remove the cable seal from the hole in
the floor and remove the lever, casing and
cables from the car (see illustration )
10. To disconnect the cables from the lever
casing, remove the swivel joint of the cables
from the lever, then squeeze the clamps and
remove the cables from the casing (see
illustrations) 3.9 Squeeze the clips (marked with
11. The gear shift lever is an integral part arrows) and remove the cable seal from the
3.8b Locking keys (marked with arrows) of hole in the floor
of the housing and is not supplied
the cable - shown with the cable removed
separately.
2.4a Plug (marked with an arrow) for 2.46 Oil fill/check plug (BE 4/5 gearbox)
filling/controlling the oil level ( MA 5
gearbox)
7А • 2 Механическая коробка передач
11. Install a new seal or gasket (depending

on design ) to the rear of the guide bushing,
then install the bushing in its location on the
input shaft. Install and securely tighten the
fastening bolts (see illustration)
12. Take the opportunity to inspect the
clutch components if the appropriate
procedures have not already been performed
(Chapter 6). Finally, install the gearbox as
Shift gear shaft seal for MA 5

3.10 a Remove the articulated connection Input shaft oil seal
of the cables from the lever... gearbox
6. Remove the gearbox, as described in
13. On models equipped with MA 5
subsection 7, and the clutch release
gearboxes, replacing the gearshift shaft seal
4 Сальники - замена mechanism, as described in Chapter 6.
requires removing the gearbox. This
7. Unscrew the three bolts securing the
procedure should be entrusted to
clutch release bearing guide sleeve and representatives of the manufacturer or
remove it along with the seal or gasket - carried out at a company service station.
Drive shaft oil seals (depending on the design) from the input
1. Remove the corresponding water shaft shaft (see illustration). Remove the spacers BE 4/5 gearboxes
as described in Chapter 8, or thrust washers that were pressed by the 14. Park the car on a level surface and
2. Carefully remove the oil seal from the - back of the guide sleeve and place them on apply the handbrake. Loosen the nuts of the
gearbox using a large flathead screwdriver primary shaft left front wheel, jack up the front of the car
(see illustration) 8. Using a screwdriver, carefully remove and install axle supports (see "Lifting the car
3. Clean the oil seal seat from any dirt , the oil seal from the release bearing guide with a jack and installing supports") Remove
then lubricate the outer edge of the new oil sleeve (see illustration) the left front wheel
seal. Install the new oil seal into its seat at the
specified depth using a suitable mandrel or
long socket. acting on the outer edge of the
oil seal (see illustration)
4. Apply a thin layer of lubricant to the
outer lip of the oil seal.
4.11 Install a new seal or gasket (depending

4.3 Install the new oil seal into its seat on the
on design) to the rear of the guide sleeve
gearbox using a suitable mandrel or long
socket
4.2 Remove the drive shaft seal using a

large flat head screwdriver .
4.8 Remove the input shaft oil seal from the

guide sleeve
9. Before installing a new oil seal, check the
mating surface of the input shaft for signs of
wear or damage. Scoring and scratches on
the mating surface may be the primary cause
4.7 Unscrew the three bolts (marked with of seal wear. Minor imperfections can be
arrows) securing the guide sleeve removed by sanding, but severe damage to
3.1Ол ...then squeeze the latches and the shaft requires repair . replacement. Make
remove the cable from the casing sure the shaft surface is lubricated and clean
by taking care of the seal lips during
5. Install the drive shaft as described in installation.
Chapter 8. 10. Immerse the new oil seal in clean oil,
then install it onto the guide bushing.
Механическая коробка передач 7А • 5
15. a large flathead screwdriver, remove Connect the wire connector and check the drive, then install the drive to the
the linkage joint from the shift shaft and operation of the circuit. Reinstall the transmission. making sure that the drive and
disconnect the linkage. components that were removed for access. driven gears are properly connected. Install
16. Using a large flathead screwdriver, - the drive mounting bolt along with the heat
carefully remove the shift shaft seal from the 6 Speedometer drive - . shield (where provided by design) and
housing, then remove the seal from the shaft removal and installation tighten it securely.
17. Before installing a new seal , inspect the 9. Connect the wire connector to the
mating surface of the seal and shift shaft for speedometer drive and lower the car to the
signs of scoring, scratches, or other damage ground
that may were the main cause of oil seal Note: The speedometer drive mechanism is
wear. Minor defects can be eliminated using used only on models not equipped with the 7. Manual transmission -
sandpaper. but serious defects make it AB8 system. On models with the AB8 removal and installation
necessary to replace the gear shift shaft system, the speedometer receives vehicle
18. Apply a coat of lubricant to the outer - speed data from the electronic unit of the
edge and lip of the new oil seal, then carefully engine control system, read by the wheel
speed sensors and the AB8 electronic unit.
Removal
install the oil seal onto the shift rod. Install the
1. Block the rear wheels and apply the
oil seal into its seat on the gearbox housing Removal handbrake. Loosen the front wheel bolts,
19. Connect the rod to the shaft of the gear
1. Block the rear wheels, apply the hand then jack up the front of the car and install the
shift mechanism, making sure that the swivel
brake, then jack up the front of the car and axle supports {see "Lifting a car with a jack
joint is securely seated on the shaft. Lower
install the axle supports (see “Lifting the car and installing supports") Remove both front
the car to the ground
with a jack and installing supports”) The wheels 2. Drain the transmission oil as
5 Reversing light switch - checking, speedometer drive is located at the rear of described in subsection 2, then install the
removal and installation the gearbox housing near the inner end of the drain and filler plugs, tightening them to the
right drive shaft . Unscrew the bolts and specified torque.
remove- 3. Remove the air cleaner assembly and
Examination intake ducts as described.
1. The reversing lights receive power
through a plunger- type switch screwed into
the top of the transmission housing. If the
switch is not functioning, first check the
integrity of the corresponding fuse.
2. To gain access to the switch, remove the
air cleaner assembly and air intake ducts as
described in Chapter 4A or 4B.
3. To check the switch, disconnect the wire
connector and use a tester or test light to
check that the switch is closed when the gear 6.2 Disconnect the wire connector (1), then
shift lever is in reverse. If the switch contacts unscrew the fastening bolt (2) and remove
do not close in the absence of visible damage the speedometer drive assembly and
in the electrical circuit, the switch must be engine/gearbox protection (where provided
replaced. by the design).
Removal speedometer drive (see illustration)
4. To gain access to the switch, remove 3. Loosen and unscrew the fastening bolt
the air cleaner assembly and air intake and remove the heat-resistant shield (where
ducts as described in Chapter 4A or 4B. it is provided by the design). Remove the
5. Disconnect the wire connector and speedometer drive assembly with the driven
unscrew the switch from the casing gear from the gearbox housing. Remove the
drive seal
4. If necessary, the gear can be removed
from the housing and from the seal removed
from the top of the housing. Check the gear
for signs of damage and. if necessary,
replace In any case, replace the casing seal
5. If the driven gear is worn or damaged,
also inspect the drive gear in the -
transmission housing for similar signs.
6. To replace the drive gear, the
transmission and differential must be
5.5 Unscrew the reverse light switch from removed. Refer the manufacturer or a
the gearbox housing along with its seal ( qualified technician to this procedure.
see illustration)
Installation
Installation 7. Lubricate the seal lip and the driven gear
6. Install a new seal onto the switch, then shaft, then install the gear at the -
screw it into the top of the transmission speedometer location.
housing and tighten to the specified torque. 8. Install a new O-ring to the speedometer
7А • 2 Механическая коробка передач
(marked with an arrow) that blocks access to

the bolt securing the gearbox to the engine
b) Replace the drive shaft seals and install

the drive shafts (see Chapter 8)
f) Install the slave cylinder (see Chapter 6)
I) Finally, fill the gearbox with the specified
amount of appropriate oil as described in
subsection 2
8 Mechanical repair
Checkpoint - general information
7.14 Fastening bolts (marked with arrows) of 7.15 Tie bolts (marked with arrows ) of the
the left engine mount itself in Chapter 4A or rear engine mount connectors and the
4B catalytic converter support to provide access 1. Repairing a manual transmission is a
4. Remove the battery and cover as to the front bolt securing the gearbox to the complex and extensive procedure for a car
described in Chapter 5A engine (see illustration) enthusiast. In addition to the need to
5. Remove the catalytic converter (petrol 17. Finally, check that all components are disassemble and reassemble a mechanism
models) or the main exhaust system without disconnected from the transmission and do with many small parts, exceptional accuracy
catalytic converter (diesel models) as not impede removal. of measurements and, if necessary, selection
described in Chapter 4A or 4B 18. After unscrewing the bolts, move the of various bushings, spacers, etc. are
6. Remove both drive shafts as described in jack and gearbox to the left, removing it from required. Internal components of a gearbox
Chapter 8 the mounting pins. Lower the engine slightly are often difficult to purchase . many of them
7. Remove the starter (Chapter 5A). to release the gearbox. are unreasonably expensive. Based on these
8. Separate the clutch slave cylinder from Caution: Beware considerations, if the malfunction or noise in
the transmission as described in Chapter 6. damage the radiator with the engine the gearbox progresses, it is better to entrust
Note that there is no need to disconnect the
removed. Protect the back of the radiator with the repair to a qualified specialist or purchase
hydraulic tube from the cylinder.
a thick sheet of cardboard. On models with a rebuilt gearbox
9. Disconnect the cables from the gearbox
air conditioning, be careful not to damage the 2. However, transmission repair can be
and support bracket . as described in
air conditioning pipes on the right side of the done by an experienced mechanic if you
subsection 3
engine compartment with the auxiliary drive have the necessary tools and carry out the
10. Disconnect the wire connectors from
belt pulleys. procedures step by step, eliminating the
the transmission, noting their original
19. With the transmission free, lower the possibility of skipping any point.
positions. Remembering the position of the
wire harness, move it to the side. jack and remove the transmission from under 3. Repairs require circlip pullers (external
11. Unscrew the fastening bolt(s) and the vehicle. If the locating pins are loose, and internal ), bearing pullers, a soft metal
remove the lower plate of the flywheel remove them from the transmission or engine hammer, a set of punches and cores, a dial
housing (where provided by design) from the and store them in a safe place. gauge, and possibly a hydraulic press. In
gearbox. addition, a level, stable workbench and vice
12. Raise the engine with a jack with a Installation are required.
block on the head or hang the engine on a lift 20. The gearbox is installed in the reverse 4. When disassembling, it is necessary to
using special eyes. order of removal, including the following mark the original positions of the
13. Raise the gearbox house kratom with a items: a) Before installation, inspect the components, so that later you can assemble
bar on the head the box correctly and without wasting
clutch assembly and clutch release
14. Loosen and remove the two bolts unnecessary time.
mechanism components (see Chapter 6).
securing the left engine/transmission mount Lubricate the release bearing guide sleeve
5. Before starting repairs, you should
to the bracket on the transmission {see clearly understand which gearbox unit is
with a small amount of heat-resistant grease
illustration) Unscrew the four bolts securing faulty. Refer to the “ Troubleshooting” section
(Manufacturers recommend Mo1uko1e BP2
the support to the body and remove the see this manual for more detailed -
P1iz). Do not apply excess lubricant to avoid
support assembly from the engine information.
getting it on the clutch driven disc. Make sure
compartment there is no grease on the input shaft/drive
15. Loosen and remove the two pinch bolts splines.
securing the rear engine/transmission mount b) Pere A When installing, make sure the -
connector to the body frame and bracket on installation pins are positioned correctly.
the transmission (see illustration) c) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
16. After jacking up the gearbox , loosen torque (where torque is specified).
and unscrew the remaining bolts securing the
gearbox housing to the engine. Mark the
original positions of the bolts and brackets for
correct subsequent installation. On diesel
models, unscrew the left
7.16 On diesel models, unscrew the support

7В • Л
Chapter 7 Part B
Automatic transmission
Content
General information .. .................... 1 Transmission control system components - removal and
Tran. mig' ionic liquid - drain and fill 2 installation ..................................................................................8
CABLE - adjustment . 3 Automatic gearbox - removal and installation 9
>“ sch < piping and cable - removal and installation.. .4
Automatic transmission repair -
Lead-lance drive - removal and installation 5
general information . 10
Zaman oil seals . .6
Liquid cooler - removal and installation ............................. 7 Checking the transmission fluid level See Chapter 1A

Общие данные
Тил Four-speed electronically controlled transmission Has three
operating modes: normal sport and winter
Designation AB4
Lubrication
Volume
Filling after draining 4 5 liters
Filling - dry" 6.0 liters
Recommended liquid See "Lubricants and working fluids"
Fluid cooler center bolt. ........................................ ...................... 50
Drain plug. .. .. Filler plug .................... 33
... 24
Fluid level check plug. . 24
Fluid Pressure Sensor Bolts ........................................ .... .......... 9
shaft 10
speed gage bolt .................................................................... Left
Обратитесь к Главе 2А
engine/gearbox mount .. ............................................................. . 10
Multifunction switch bolts Output shaft speed sensor ................. bolt 10
.......... Обратитесь к Главе 2А
Rear Support Connector90
Whe
el Bolts 10
Nuts • for attaching the torque converter to the faceplate 30
First puff ............................. ............... ................................... 35
Second puff . . ...............................
Bolts securing the gearbox to the engine...
1 General information use of the engine's operating range and

greater acceleration. When operating in
winter mode, when starting from a standstill,
movement begins immediately in second
1. 1 The 4-liter petrol model can be gear. This ensures less torque on the wheels
equipped with a four-speed electronically and higher traction between the wheels and
the road.
controlled automatic transmission, consisting
3. In a torque converter, torque from the
of a torque converter, a planetary gearbox,
engine to the gearbox is transmitted through
as well as hydraulic clutches and brakes. The
fluid, which ensures smoother transmission.
transmission is controlled by an electronic
In addition, when accelerating, the torque
control unit (ECU) via solenoid valves. The
converter slightly increases torque
transmission has 3 operating modes: normal,
4. Shifting gears in a planetary gearbox
sport and winter Mode selection buttons are involves releasing and blocking certain links
located on the right side of the selector lever, (gears), which is carried out by hydraulically
and indicator lights are located on the driven friction elements controlled by an
dashboard electronic unit through electric valves. The
2. During normal operation, gear changes pressure of the working fluid for the operation
are carried out in order to ensure maximum of the friction controls is maintained by a
driving efficiency. In sport mode, the timing of special pump
upshifts occurs later. which ensures fuller
7В • 2 Автоматическая коробка передач
so placed in the gearbox. 5. The driver reset to zero, and control will take place described, it is advisable to consult with the
controls the gearbox using a selector lever according to one of the basic programs. After manufacturer’s representatives regarding
that has 6 positions. The box has a position the vehicle has traveled several kilometers, changing the oil in all types of gearboxes
“0п7е” and “НО”, which ensures the car the control system will adapt. During the first
operates in the range of the first three gears. few kilometers of driving, before the system Drain
Position “□г1ч.'(О) adapts to your driving style, the vehicle's Note: This procedure is possible on early
This is a slight change in the gear ratio in the operating characteristics may differ from the modifications (see above).
range of four speeds and is selected for usual ones. 3.
normal driving mode. The “Yusk-dotl/p” pre-heating the oil in the gearbox to
mode reduces the gear ratio of the box when
2 Transmission fluid - draining and operating temperature by running the car for
the gas pedal is fully pressed. The “NoSh” a short period of time
filling
mode is similar, but limits the number of 4. . . ■
possible gear ratios, that is, when the But, turn off the ignition and apply the hand
Note 1: To unscrew the transmission filler
selector lever is in position “3”, only the first brake. To ensure access, jack up the front of
plug, you may need a square wrench. Such
three gear ratios can be set; in position “2” the car and install axle supports (see “Lifting
wrenches can be purchased at a regular or
only the first two When the lever is in position the car with a jack and installing supports”)
specialized auto store.
“ 2", the transmission can be locked in first Unscrew the screws and remove the
gear by pressing the button on the right side engine/gearbox protection (where provided
of the selector lever. Reduced gear ratios are Note 2: The gearbox is equipped with a
by the design).
used when braking the engine, descending a transmission fluid condition sensor, which -
steep slope, or to prevent shifting into higher signals the driver if necessary to replace the
drain plug located at the base of the gearbox.
gears on a winding road. Remember not to fluid (the electronic unit lights up the “ZrogT”
Unscrew the drain plug (the smaller plug in
reduce the gear ratio at high engine speeds. and “Evil” warning lamps on the panel if
the center of the drain is the transmission oil
6. On some models, the selector lever has replacement is necessary). When draining
level plug, see (Lava 1 A| and remove the
a “LOCK-OUT” function . This allows you to and filling the oil into the gearbox , you should
seal (see illustration ) Completely drain the
prevent the lever from moving from the “P” reinstall the sensor, which is only possible
transmission fluid into a container.
position when the brake pedal is not pressed. when using special diagnostic equipment
Warning: If the liquid is hot , take
7. Repair of the box must be entrusted to
qualified specialists . having the appropriate
tools and equipment. This chapter describes
Generalization
1 . Since the A1 4 automatic box was put into
A precautions against scalding.
6. Cleans thoroughly! glnvnu.,' cabbage
the removal and installation of the gearbox, operation, । its numerous modifications . The soup.' container, paying special attention to
particles
as well as some maintenance information. most significant of them are the replacement metal . pr|pchnu1st
Note : The automatic transmission is an of filling and level control plugs, as well as
adaptive type. This means that the electronic changes in the procedures for draining and
unit, depending on your driving style, sets the filling box 2. On later modifications of -
timing of the gear ratio changes to ensure gearboxes there is no drain plug, and the box
optimal performance and economy. When is “sealed for scrapping* Information
the vehicle's electrical circuit is information contained in this subsection
disconnected, the control unit's RAM will be applies only to earlier modifications of
gearboxes. Before performing the procedure
2.5 Сливная пробка (1) и пробка контроля уровня масла (2), находящаяся в
сливной пробке (ранние модели)
Автоматическая коробка передач 7В • 3
4 Selector lever and ' -. cable -

Removal
1. Remove the center console as described
in Chapter 11, then move the selector lever
to position P
2. Squeeze the keys located in the center
of the installation end of the cable . then
remove the installation end of the cable from
2.9 Filling plug (marked with an arrow) of the the swivel joint on the selector lever (see illustration) 9. Squeeze the black spring clip
automatic transmission with a magnet illustration ) and remove the cable sheath from the
Remove the seal; it should be replaced every 3. Using needle-nose pliers, pull out the bracket on the gearbox Remove the rubber
time the plug is removed black spring clip and remove the cable O-ring of the cable from the hole in the floor
7. After draining the fluid, clean the threads sheath and remove the cable assembly from inside
on the plug and in the gearbox housing . from the front of the selector lever housing ( the vehicle.
install a new seal and tighten the drain plug see illustration)
to the specified torque. If the vehicle was 4. Remembering the starting positions, - Installation
raised for the described operation, lower it to connect all the wire connectors from the 10 . Installation is carried out in the reverse
the ground. selector lever housing. order of removal.
5. Remove the four lock nuts and remove
Filling the lever housing from the location and then
8. To gain access to the fill plug, remove the from the vehicle.
air cleaner assembly as described in Chapter
4A
9. Wipe clean the area around the filler plug
located behind the transmission selector
lever ( see illustration). Unscrew the filler
plug from the gearbox and remove the seal
Caution: Do not remove the selector shaft
bolt (located in front of the selector lever).
10. Carefully fill the transmission with the 11 3 Remove the black spring clip and cable
specified amount of appropriate transmission cover from the front of the selector lever
fluid. Install a new seal on the fill plug, then housing.
install the plug and tighten it to the specified 4.2 Squeeze the keys (marked with
torque. Install the air cleaner. as described in arrows) to release the installation end of 4.8b ...then remove the installation end of the
Chapter 4A the cable cable from the swivel joint on the selector
11. Warm up the transmission oil to lever
4.8a Squeeze the keys located in the center
operating temperature after driving the of the installation end of the cable...
vehicle for a short period of time.
3.3 Pull the yellow plastic clip on the
12. Upon return, check the gearbox oil level
installation end of the cable to unlock the
as described in Chapter 1 A
adjustment system
3 Selector cable -
adjustment 6. Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the car and install the axle supports (see
supports”)
1. To provide access to the gearbox where
7. Remove the air cleaner as described in
the cable is attached, remove the air cleaner
Chapter 4A
as described in Chapter 4A
8. Squeeze the keys located in the center
2. Position the selector lever opposite 1B
of its lock in position P
"Ragk"
3. Pull the yellow plastic clip on the
installation end of the cable to unlock
the adjustment system (see
illustration).
4. Make sure the selector lever on top of
the transmission is in its full forward
position, then press the yellow clip to secure
the cable in its location.
5. Check the operation of the selector
lever before installing the air cleaner of the installation end of the cable , then
((section 4A), remove the installation end of the cable from
the swivel joint on the selector lever (see
Before installing components removed for in the “P” position 24. Align the grooves of the gearbox shaft
access, adjust the cable as described in 12. Loosen and unscrew the nut with the - and the torque converter, then move the
subsection 3 clamping bolt securing the selector lever to torque converter to its location without
the gearbox shaft. Apply alignment marks to damaging the seal.
5 Speedometer drive - the shaft and lever, then remove the lever 25. I
from the shaft, described in subsection 9
13. Squeeze the black spring clip and
remove the selector cable from the bracket 7 Liquid cooler -
Refer to Subsection 6 of Chapter 7A on the gearbox. Move the cable away from removal and installation -x
the selector shaft
6 Oil seals - replacement 14. Apply alignment marks to the
multifunction switch and gearbox, then Caution: During this procedure, ensure that
unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the no dirt gets into the transmission .
switch.
Drive seals 15. Carefully remove the transmission top Removal
shaft seal, being careful not to damage the shaft or 1. The fluid cooler is mounted on the rear
housing. To remove the oil seal, carefully of the transmission housing. To gain access
1. Remove the appropriate drive shaft as
punch or drill two small diametrically located to the cooler , remove the battery and
holes in it. Screw the self-tapping screws into housing as described in Chapter 5A.
Right oil seal the holes and remove the oil seal by grasping 2. Remove any traces of dirt around the
2. Remove the o-ring from the differential it by the screws. cooler before continuing the procedure .
planetary gear shaft , then carefully remove 16. Clean the area around the oil seal bore 3. To minimize transmission fluid loss,
the oil seal from the gearbox, being careful of any traces of dirt, then lubricate the outer pinch both cooler hoses.
not to damage the shaft or housing. To edge and lip of the new oil seal. Place the 4. Loosen the clamps, disconnect the
remove the oil seal, carefully punch or drill new oil seal onto the shaft, being careful not hoses from the cooler - be prepared for
two small diametrically located holes in it. to damage its lip, and seat it in the hole. refrigerant leakage (see illustration) Rinse off
Screw self-tapping screws into the holes and 17. Position the multifunction switch behind any spilled coolant with cold water and dry
remove the oil seal by grabbing it by the the selector shaft. Align the marks made the surrounding area before continuing.
screws. . during removal, then install the switch bolts 5. Loosen and remove the cooler center
3. Clean the area around the oil seal bore and tighten them to the specified torque. bolt, then remove the cooler from the
to remove any traces of dirt, then lubricate 18. Place the selector cable in the bracket transmission. Remove the seal from the bolt
the outer edge and lip of the new oil seal. on the transmission and connect the selector and the two seals located at the rear of the
Place the new oil seal onto the shaft. being lever to the transmission shaft. Make sure cooler. When installing, use new seals (see
careful not to damage its lip, seat it in the that the marks made during removal are illustration)
hole. Guide the seal into the seat by pressing aligned, then install the clamp bolt and lever
on its hard outer edge with a suitable mandrel nut, tightening them securely. Installation
or long socket 19. Adjust the cable as described in 6. Lubricate the new seals with clean
4. Once the seal is installed correctly, install subsection 3, then install the components transmission oil, then install
a new O-ring onto the planetary gear shaft removed for access.
and slide it forward until it contacts the seal. Torque converter oil seal
5. Install the drive shaft as described in
20. Remove the gearbox as described in
Chapter 8
subsection 9.
Left oil seal 21. Carefully remove the torque converter
6. Using a strong flathead screwdriver, from the transmission shaft, being prepared
carefully pry and remove the oil seal from the for transmission fluid to drain out.
gearbox. 22. Mark the correct original position of the
7. Clean the area around the oil seal hole of oil seal in the housing, then carefully remove
any traces of dirt, then lubricate the outer it. for fear of damaging the casing or shaft
edge and lip of the new oil seal. Place the 23. Remove traces of dirt from the area
new oil seal on the shaft. fearing to damage
its lip, and seat it in the hole. Guide the oil
seal into its seat, working on its hard outer
edge with a suitable mandrel or long head
until it contacts the stop.
If the oil seal was equipped with a plastic -
protective sleeve, remove it before installing
the drive shaft.
8. Apply a thin layer of lubricant to you
stuffing box mortar
9. Install the drive shaft as described in
Chapter 8. 7.4 Loosen the clamps and disconnect the
Selector shaft oil seal hoses (marked with arrows) from the fluid
10. To gain access to the selector shaft, cooler (top view)
remove the air cleaner as described in
Oil seal bore Place the new oil seal in its seat,
Chapter 4A.
making sure that the oil seal lip is in the inner
11. Place the selector lever opposite its lock
position, then push the oil seal into its seat.
8.4 Disconnect the lower mounting keys and Removal clean , then loosen and remove the bolt
remove the casing from the mounting plate of holding the sensor in place. Remove the
1. The block is located on the front side of
the ECU, replace two seals on the back side sensor together with its seal, remove the
the gearbox under the upper radiator pipe.
of the cooler and one seal on the central bolt, seal. When installing, use a new one.
7. Position the cooler at the rear of the
3. Apply the handbrake, then jack up the Installation
transmission housing and install the center
front of the car and install the axle supports 13. Installation is carried out in the reverse
bolt. After ensuring that the cooler is
(see Fig. order of removal, including the following
positioned correctly, tighten the center bolt to
-Lifting the car with a jack and installing points
the specified torque.
supports"), a) Install a new seal on the sensor and
8. Connect the refrigerant hoses to the
4. Working under the car, disconnect the tighten the sensor bolt to the specified
cooler and secure them with clamps .
lower mounting pins of the plastic casing of torque.
Remove the clamps from the hoses
the electronic control unit and remove the b) Finally, check the transmission fluid level
9. Install the battery with casing (see
casing from the ECU mounting plate (see - as described in Chapter 1A.
Chapter 5A)
illustration}.
10. Top up the cooling system as described
5. Slide the retaining clip and disconnect Input Shaft Speed Sensor
in -Weekly Inspections" and check the
the wire connector from the ECU (see Caution: When performing the following
transmission fluid level in the gearbox as
illustration). procedure, ensure that the transmission is
described in (chapter 1A
6. Move the wiring harness away from the not contaminated.
8 Transmission control system unit mounting plate, then remove the three
Removal
bolts securing the unit mounting plate to the
components - removal and installation 14. This sensor is located on the left side of
transmission. One bolt is located on the front
the gearbox.
and two on the side of the transmission (see
15. To gain access to the sensor, block the
Electronic control unit (ECU) illustration)
rear wheels, apply the handbrake and jack
Note: The electronic control system 7. Remove the block and its mounting plate
up the front of the car , then install the axle
for the automatic transmission from the face of the transmission, then
operates through the interaction of the unscrew the mounting strut nuts and remove
installing supports”)
engine and transmission control units. the block from the mounting plate.
16. To provide access to the connector
When replacing one of the blocks, both Installation
blocks must be calibrated. This 8. Installation is carried out in the reverse
order of removal. Make sure the wire
connector is securely connected.
Output shaft speed sensor

Caution: When performing the following
procedure, ensure that the transmission is
not contaminated.
8.6 Front fastening bolt of the ECU mounting
plate (marked with an arrow)
Removal
9. This sensor is located on the rear of the
11. Fluid Cooler Components transmission
1 Bolt 10. To provide access to the sensor . lift the
2 Seals front of the car with a jack and install axle
3 Liquid cooler supports (see “Lifting the car with a jack and
installing supports”) Unscrew the screws and
8.5 Slide the fixing clip (marked with an
remove the engine/gearbox protection
arrow) and disconnect the wire connector
(where it is provided by the design)
from the ECU; this procedure is possible with
11. Trace the direction of the wire from the
specialized electronic diagnostic equipment.
sensor to the connector located next to the
It is recommended that it be carried out by a
connector of the main transmission wiring
qualified specialist with the appropriate
harness. Remove the connector from the
equipment or at a specialized service station.
bracket and disconnect it.
12. Wipe the area adjacent to the sensor
main wiring harness, remove the battery and universal measuring instrument, described -
its casing (see [section 5A). later in this subsection.
17. Remove the clamp and disconnect the
main wiring harness connector from the top
Removal
of the transmission, 29. Remove ' G0| • •
18. Remove the two bolts and remove the pallet (see 1lava 5A).
main wiring harness connector from the 30. Position the selector lever against its
transmission. Cut the cable clamps that lock in position "P"
secure the wiring harness to the connector 31. Loosen and unscrew the nut with the -
housing, then squeeze the latches and slide clamping bolt securing the selector lever to
the housing away from the connector. the gearbox shaft Apply alignment marks on
19. Trace the direction of the wire from the the shaft and lever, then separate the shaft
sensor being removed to the connector of the 1. 27 The fluid pressure sensor is attached
and lever
main wiring harness and free it from all kinds to the gearbox with two bolts (marked with
32. Squeeze the black spring clip and
of clamps and clamps. Gently squeeze the arrows)
remove the selector lever wire from the
clamps. then remove the sensor connector bracket on the gearbox. Move the selector
axle supports (see “Lifting the vehicle with a
from the back of the main wiring harness shaft wire.
jack and installing supports”) 24. Remove the
connector, noting its original position. 33. Remove the two bolts and disconnect
battery and its casing (see Chapter 5A).
20. Clean... the main wiring harness connector from the
region. Loosen and unscrew the fastening - 25. Remove the two bolts and remove the
main wiring harness connector from the transmission. Cut the cable clamps securing
bolt, then remove the sensor with its O-ring.
transmission. Cut the cable clamps that the wiring harness to the connector housing,
Remove the seal. When installing, use a new
secure the wiring harness to the connector then squeeze the latches and slide the
seal.
housing, then squeeze the latches and slide housing away from the connector.
Installation the housing away from the connector. 34. Trace the direction of the wire from the
21. / stanoaka is carried out in the reverse 26. Trace the direction of the wire from the multifunction switch to the main wiring
order of removal, including the following sensor being removed to the connector of the harness connector and free it from any
points main wiring harness and free it from all kinds clamps and clamps. Gently squeeze the
of clamps and clamps. Gently squeeze the clips, then remove the green 12-pin
а) Install a new seal on the sensor and
clips, then slide the green three-pin sensor connector from the back of the main wiring
tighten the sensor bolt to the specified
connector off the back of the main harness harness connector, noting its original position
torque.
connector, noting its original position. 35. Apply alignment marks to the
б) Make sure that the sensor wiring is
located correctly and that it is securely 27. Clean the area around the sensor. multifunction switch and gearbox, then
fixed with clamps and clamps. Loosen and unscrew the fastening bolt, then unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the
c) Connect the sensor connector to the main remove the sensor with its O-ring (see - switch
wiring harness connector . making sure illustration). Remove the seal When Installation
the installation is correct. Install the installing, use a new seal. Prepare for liquid
36. First install the multifunction switch on
housing onto the main wiring harness spills and plug the sensor hole to minimize
the selector shaft. Align the marks made
connector, ensuring it is properly liquid loss
before removal, then install the switch
secured in position, and connect the Installation mounting bolts and tighten them to the
cable to the connector housing with the 28. Installation is carried out in the reverse specified torque.
new clips. Attach the connector to the order of removal, including the following 37. Connect the wiring to the connector of
transmission with bolts. the main wiring harness, making sure that
items.
b) Finally, check the transmission fluid level
in the gearbox as described in Chapter a) Install a new seal on the sensor and the installation is correct. Install the casing on
1A. tighten the sensor bolts to the specified the connector of the main wiring harness,
torque. making sure that it is securely and correctly
Fluid pressure sensor b) Make sure that the sensor wiring is fixed. Connect the cable to the connector
Caution: When performing the following located correctly and that it is securely casing with new clips. Connect the connector
fixed with clamps and clamps. to the transmission and tighten the mounting
procedure, ensure that the transmission is
not contaminated. c) Connect the sensor connector to the bolts securely
main wiring harness connector , making
Removal sure it is installed correctly. Install the
22. Datchi D II • housing onto the main wiring harness
lies at the base of the gearbox connector, ensuring it is properly
23. To gain access to the sensor, block the secured in position, and connect the
rear wheels, apply the handbrake and jack cable to the connector housing with the
up the front of the vehicle , then install new clips. Attach the connector to the
transmission with bolts.
b) Finally, check the transmission fluid level
in the gearbox as described in Chapter
1A.
Multifunction switch
Note: The multifunction switch has slots for
alignment during adjustment. Fine
adjustments are made using a high-precision
38. Connect the main wiring harness 2. Remove the air cleaner housing and air nut and rotate the crankshaft another 1 20"
connector to the transmission intake duct as described in Chapter 4A Remove the third and final nut. New nuts
39. Place the selector lever harness into 3. Remove the battery and its cover as should be used when installing
the bracket on the transmission and connect described in Chapter 5A 15. the gearbox is removed , attach it with
the selector lever to the transmission shaft. 4. Remove the electronic control unit of the wire to one of the bolt holes on the starter.
Make sure the removal marks are aligned automatic transmission as described in 16. Raise the engine with a jack with a
correctly, then install by securely tightening subsection 8 block on the head. Or lift the engine with a lift
the selector lever clamp bolt and nut. 5. Remove the catalytic converter as using special eyes
40. Adjust the cable as described in described in Chapter 4A. 17. Raise the gearbox using a jack with a
subsection 3 and the multifunction switch as 6. Remove both drive shafts as described block on the head.
described below. in (chapter 8 18. Loosen and remove the two bolts -
Adjustment 7. Remove the starter ((lava 5A) securing the left engine/transmission mount
8. Loosen and remove the clamp bolt and connector to the bracket on the transmission.
41. Loosen the switch mounting bolts and
nut securing the selector lever to the Remove the four bolts securing the mount to
turn the switch counterclockwise until it stops
transmission shaft. Place alignment marks the body and remove the mount assembly
42. Switch the tester to resistance
on the shaft and lever, then remove the lever from the engine compartment.
measurement mode and connect it to the
from the shaft. 19. Loosen and remove the two pinch bolts
contacts of the multifunction switch.
9. Squeeze the black spring clip and securing the rear engine/transmission mount
43. Slowly turn the switch clockwise until its
remove the selector lever wiring from the connector to the bracket on the transmission
contacts close (the tester should show no
bracket on the transmission. Slide the wiring and to the vehicle frame.
resistance).
from the selector shaft 20. With the gearbox jacked up , loosen
44. Place an alignment mark on the shifter
10. To minimize transmission fluid losses, and unscrew the remaining bolts securing
and transmission housing in this position.
clamp both cooler hoses by loosening the the gearbox housing to the engine. Mark the
45. Turn the switch•
clockwise until the contacts open (the tester clamps. Disconnect the hoses from the original positions of bolts and brackets before
should show infinite resistance) cooler - be prepared for refrigerant leakage. removal to ensure proper installation. Make
46. Apply another mark at the same time. Rinse off any spilled refrigerant with cold a final check that all components are
gearbox casing and switch alignment mark water and dry the surrounding area before disconnected and moved away from the
made previously [see. illustration) continuing. transmission without interfering with the
47. Turn the switch until the mark on the 11. Remove the clamp and disconnect the removal procedure.
switch housing is exactly halfway between connector of the main wiring harness from 21. After removing the bolts, move the -
the marks on the gearbox housing. Tighten the transmission wiring block, located in the hydraulic jack and gearbox to the left and
the switch mounting bolts to the specified rear part of it. Also disconnect the wiring disengage the gearbox from the locating
torque. connector for the secondary shaft speed pins. If necessary, lower the engine slightly
48. Install the battery with housing as sensor (it is located next to the connector of to disengage the gearbox.
described in Chapter 5A the main wiring harness). then move the 22. Having freed the gearbox, lower the
49. Make sure that the position of the wiring harness disconnected from the jack and remove the gearbox from under the
selector lever matches the display on the transmission. car. Remove the locating pins from the
instrument panel 12. Remove the locking nut/bolt(s) and transmission or de-
disconnect the ground bar from the top of the
transmission housing. Release the wires
from all kinds of clamps and move it away
from the gearbox.
remove the lower plate of the faceplate
casing (where provided by the design) from
the gearbox
14. Access to the torque converter lock
nuts is provided through a special hole above
the right drive shaft behind the cylinder block.
8.46 Adjusting the multi-function switch

1. 1st registration mark
2. 2nd registration mark
3. Switch body alignment marks
4. Switch contacts
9 Automatic transmission -
9. 14 Access to the torque converter lock

Removal nuts is provided through a special hole
1. Block the rear wheels and apply the (marked with an arrow) above the drive shaft
handbrake. Loosen both front wheel bolts.
Raise the front of the car with a jack and Turn the socket on the extension rod on the
install axle supports (see "Lifting the car with crankshaft pulley to align the first nut with the
a jack and installing axle supports") Remove hole [see illustration) Unscrew the nut and
both front wheels. turn the crankshaft 120'. Remove the second
If they have a loose fit, store them in a safe positioned, install the bolts securing the box in the gearbox as described in Chapter
place. to the engine and tighten them to the 1A
specified torque.
Installation 26. Screw new nuts onto the torque 10 Automatic transmission repair -
23. Make sure the bushing located in the converter struts and tighten them lightly, general information
center of the crankshaft is in good condition rotating the crankshaft as necessary. Tighten
and treat the torque converter alignment pin all three nuts to the first tightening torque. 1. In the event of a transmission failure , it
with a small amount of Mo1uko1e BA2. After tightening to the first tightening torque, is necessary to determine the nature of the
Caution: Due to the risk of torque converter tighten the nuts in a circle to the second failure - electrical, mechanical or hydraulic,
contamination , do not overapply. tightening torque. which requires special diagnostic equipment.
Therefore, in the event of a transmission
24. Make sure the engine/transmission 27. Further installation is carried out in the
malfunction, you should contact specialists
locating pins are correctly positioned, then reverse order of removal, including the
or representatives of the manufacturer
install the transmission in its location. Align following items
2. Do not remove the gearbox from the car
the torque converter struts with the faceplate a) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified until the cause of the malfunction has been
holes, then connect the transmission to the torque (if specified).
b) Replace the drive shaft seals and install identified, since most tests on diagnostic
engine. equipment require the gearbox to be on the
the drive shafts (see Chapter 8).
Caution: During installation, do not allow the car
c) Connect the selector wire and make
transmission to rest on the hydraulic -
adjustments
transformer.
ku. as described in subsection 3.
25. After the box and engine are correctly e) Finally, check the transmission fluid level
Chapter 8
Drive shafts
Content
General information ................................................................. 1 Intermediate bearing of the right drive shaft - replacement ........ 5
Drive shafts - removal and installation ..................................... 2 Drive shaft and constant velocity joint (CV joint) cover - check,
Drive shaft covers replacement ................................................ 3 see Chapter 1A or 1B
Drive shaft repair general information. .4

Total information
Lubricant type. Special lubricant in bags, supplied with the case. The joints are
lubricated at the factory and have an airtight seal.
Lubricant quantity: Outer CV joint. .........

160 grams
Inner CV joint ..................................... 130 grams

Drive shaft fastening nut* ........................................................... 245
Suspension arm lower hinge bolt nut* . 40
Fastening nuts of the bolt of the right intermediate bearing of the drive
shaft .................................................................................................. 20
Wheel bolts 90
Steering rod joint fastening nut* ........................................................ 35
' When installing, use new nuts
1 general information the wheels with the drive shafts removed. If it
is necessary to move the vehicle with the
drive shafts removed, temporarily insert the
outer end of the drive shaft(s) into the hub(s)
and tighten the hub nut(s): in this case, the
Torque from the differential to the drive
inner end(s) of the drive shaft(s) should be
wheels is transmitted through two drive
suspended, for example, by tying it with wire
shafts of different lengths
to the frame of the car body. Do not allow the
Both drive shafts have splines on the outer
drive shaft to sag under its own weight.
ends for mating with the wheel hubs and are
Note 2: When installing, use new drive shaft
threaded as such. so that the hubs can be
nuts, lower ball joint clamp nuts and a tie rod
screwed on with large nuts. The inner ends
joint securing nut. 2.4 Knock off the edge securing the nut
of the drive shafts also have splines for
connection to the differential sun wheel securing the drive shaft
Removal
Constant velocity joints installed at the
1. Apply the handbrake, then jack up the
ends of the shafts provide smooth and front of the car and install the axle supports
efficient transmission of torque during (see ••Jacking the car and installing
movement of suspension components and supports") Remove the corresponding front
wheels. The outer CV joint is a ball-and- wheel.
bearing joint, and the inner CV joint is a 2. On models with a manual transmission ,
three-pivot joint. drain the transmission oil as described in
On diesel engines with 16 valves, the right Chapter 7A. On models with an automatic
CV joint is located approximately in the - transmission, there is no need to drain the
middle of the shaft and has an intermediate transmission fluid.
support bearing in the bracket. attached to 3. Release the hydraulic brake hose and,
the rear of the engine. The inner end of the where provided by the design, the wiring of
drive shaft passes through a bearing (which the AVZ wheel speed sensor from the
prevents lateral movement of the inner end support brackets on the suspension strut
of the drive shaft) integrated into one 4. Using a hammer and chisel or similar
assembly with the inner constant velocity tool, knock off the edge securing the nut
joint. securing the drive shaft (see illustration)
Mark-
2 Drive shafts - removal and installation
Note 1: To avoid damage to the wheel

bearings, do not allow the vehicle to rest on
8•г Приводные валы
7. Loosen and unscrew the nut, then - Chapter 7A or 7B The oil seal is located in a
remove the lower ball joint bolt from the hub difficult to reach area and should be replaced
fastener (see Fig. illustration) Please note regardless of condition. taking advantage of
that a new lock nut must be used during the opportunity
installation. 16. Thoroughly clean the drive shaft
8. Drive in a small chisel and lightly splines, as well as the gearbox and hub
release the hub clamp to remove the ball joint holes. Apply a thin layer of lubricant to the oil
pin. Pull the lower control arm down to seal protrusions, splines and shaft shoulders.
release the ball joint pin from the hub Check the reliability of the shaft boot clamps.
mounting. To do this, use a long rod and a Left drive shaft
block that is placed under the frame. Use the 17. Align the splines of the drive shaft with
rod to apply pressure to the suspension arm the splines of the differential sun wheel,
2.7 Loosen and unscrew the nut, then -
using a chain, strong belt or rope. Move the being careful not to damage the oil seal.
remove the lower ball joint bolt from the hub
rod down to release the ball joint from the hub Engage the splines of the shaft and sun
fastener ; when installing, use a new lock nut.
mounting (see illustration). wheel
5. Install at least two wheel bolts into the
9. After removing the ball joint, remove its 18. Align the splines of the outer CV joint
front hub and tighten them securely. Get a
support plate mounted on the support pin. with the hub fastening splines and engage
professional . asking him to depress the
brake pedal to prevent the front hub from Left drive shaft the CV joint and the hub
rotating, then use a socket and extension rod 19. Install the support plate on
10. Carefully push the hub assembly
to loosen and remove the drive shaft lock nut. fasteners outward and pull the drive shaft
Or make a tool from two pieces of metal strip outer constant velocity joint out of the hub. If
(one longer than the other necessary, the shaft can be disconnected
from the hub using a hammer made of soft
material.
11. Support the drive shaft on a stand,
then remove the inner CV joint from the
gearbox, being careful not to damage the
drive shaft seal. Remove
2.126 ..then turn the bolts 90' like this. so that

their offset heads (marked with arrows) do
not overlap the outer ring of the bearing (for
A device that keeps the front hub from clarity, shown with the drive shaft removed)
turning while unscrewing the drive shaft lock
nut can be made from two pieces of metal
strip (one longer, the other shorter) and a nut
with a bolt; nut and bolt form the pivot point
of the split attachment ( shorter) and nuts and
bolt: nut and bolt form the pivot point of the
split attachment Attach the fixture with two 2.12a On the right drive shaft, loosen the
wheel bolts to the hub and hold the fixture. fastening nuts (marked with arrows) of the
preventing the hub from turning while intermediate bearing...
removing the drive shaft lock nut (see drive shaft from under the car
TOOL). The tightening force of this nut is Right drive shaft
quite high: make sure that there is no risk of 12. Loosen the two nuts securing the
pushing the car off the axle supports intermediate bearing bolts, then rotate the
6. Loosen and unscrew the nut securing bolts 90' so that their misaligned heads do
the tie rod joint to the hub fastener and not overlap the outer race of the bearing (see
remove the conical joint pin using a special illustration)
puller. Please note that a new nut should be 13. Carefully pull the hub assembly
used when installing outward and pull the drive shaft outer
constant velocity joint out of the hub. If
necessary, the shaft can be driven away from
the hub using a soft hammer.
14. Support the outer end of the drive -
shaft on a stand, then pull the inner end of
the shaft to remove it from the transmission
and the intermediate bearing from the
mounting bracket. Remove the drive shaft
from under the vehicle.
Installation
2.8 Pull the lower suspension arm down by 15. Before installing the drive shaft, check
pressing on it with a rod tied with a chain and the condition of the shaft seal in the gearbox
supported on the body frame and. if necessary . replace it. as described in
Приводные валы а•з
2.22 Secure the nut in the recess of the drive

shaft using a hammer and core , then, using
the method used for removal, install the ball
joint pin into the hub fastener, making sure
that the protrusion on the support plate is
correctly positioned in the clamp. Insert the
ball joint clamp bolt (from the front of the hub
mount), then install the new lock nut and
tighten to the specified torque.
20. Position the tie rod joint in the hub
mount, then install the new lock nut and
tighten it to the specified torque. 28. b ...then remove the joint from the shaft 2.6 Remove the retaining ring from its
21. Lubricate the threads and the inner recess on the splines of the drive shaft
surface of the nut securing the drive shaft 28. Carefully align the splines on the inner
with clean engine oil and screw it onto the end of the drive shaft with the splines on the 3. Check that the edge of the inner
end of the shaft. Using the method used for differential sun wheel. for fear of damaging protective boot is locked into the recess on
removal, prevent rotation of the hub and the seal. Align the intermediate bearing with the drive shaft. If not, mark the position of the
tighten the drive shaft securing nut with the its support bracket and install the drive shaft edge of the protective boot on the drive shaft
specified tightening force. Make sure that the in its original position. If necessary, install the with quick-drying paint or something similar.
hub 22 rotates smoothly. ■ 1 Fix the nut in outer bearing race into the support bracket 4. Slide the boot along the shaft from the
the recess of the drive shaft using a hammer using a soft hammer. CV joint, then remove excess grease. It is
and a core (see illustration) 29. Align the splines of the outer CV joint advisable to wear protective rubber gloves
23. Install on support brackets . a hydraulic with the splines in the hub mounting and for this procedure.
brake hose located on the suspension strut insert the CV joint into its original position in 5. Ask an assistant to firmly fix the drive
and, where provided by the design, wiring for the hub. shaft. or clamp it in a vice with soft jaws.
the AVZ speed sensor. 30. Make sure that the intermediate Sharply hit the edge of the outer CV joint with
24. Fill the manual transmission with the bearing is positioned correctly , then rotate its a hammer to remove it from the drive shaft
specified amount of engine oil of the mounting bolts 90' so that their heads overlap (see illustrations). The joint is attached to the
appropriate brand, as described in Chapter the outer race of the bearing. Tighten the drive shaft via an internal retaining ring.
7A. fastening nuts to the specified torque. Hitting the joint will move the ring into its
25. Finally, install the wheels, then lower 31. Carry out the procedures described in recess.
the vehicle to the ground and tighten the subsections 19-25 above.
wheel bolts to the specified torque.
Right drive shaft 3 Drive shaft covers - replacement
26. Make sure that the intermediate
bearing rotates smoothly and easily , and that
there is no unacceptable play between its External CV joint
inner and outer rings. If necessary, replace 1. Remove the drive shaft from the vehicle
the bearing as described in Section 5-27. as described in subsection 2
Apply lubricant to the outer race of the 2. Remove the inner and outer clamps of
intermediate bearing, then insert the inner the protective rubber boot by sawing them
end of the drive shaft into the bearing support with a small hacksaw (see illustration)
bracket. Unclench and remove the clamps from the
27. Remove the inner and outer clamps of protective cover 3.11 Standard repair kit consisting of a new
the protective rubber boot by sawing them protective boot, retaining ring, clamps and
2.5 a Use a hammer to sharply strike the appropriate lubricant in the specified quantity
with a small hacksaw
edge of the outer CV joint to compress its
inner snap ring...
в•а Приводные валы
3.12с Установите новое стопорное

3.12а Поместите новый внутренний 3.12Ь ..и новый защитный чехол кольцо в углублении приводного вала...
хомут на приводной вал...
into the recess on the race.
3.124 ..then compress the retaining ring 3.12e Place the CV joint on the splines and 3.121 Apply a sharp blow to displace the
using a wire clamp. Tighten the clamp with position the inner race against the wiring wiring clamp and position the inner race
pliers and cut off the end clamp above the retaining ring. With the hinge in
place, cut the wiring clamp
3.121 Place the inner edge of the boot in the

3.12 e Fill the joint with half the amount of recess of the shaft or opposite the mark
recommended lubricant , carefully placing 3.124 Fill the protective boot with the made during removal. Place the hinge clamp
the lubricant in the ball routes remaining lubricant, then pull the boot onto in its original position and squeeze its
the outer race, placing the edge of the boot protrusion with tongs or pliers
between the inner edges of the outer and

3.12] Place the outer clamp on the cover... inner protective covers
3.12к ...затем сожмите его выступ
3.15 Measure and record the distances
щипцами или плоскогубцами
allowing the joint to be removed from the shaft, you rub off as much of the old grease
shaft
as possible
6. After removing the hinge assembly, -
(do not use solvent) to inspect the hinge
remove the retaining ring from its recess on
components
the splines of the drive shaft (see illustration)
9. Rotate the internal spline components
When installing, use a new retaining ring.
from side to side, exposing each ball in turn.
7. Remove the rubber protective boot from
the drive shaft.
8. After removing the CV joint from the drive
Приводные валы в•5
it using a suitable puller. under the front of the car when slowly turning
20. Now the tripod joint can be removed into a turn with maximum wheel inversion. If
with a bearing puller with two or three legs, or this kind of crackling is present, a conclusion
using a press. When using a puller, make can be made about the wear of the outer CV
sure that its legs do not rest against the joint. This means that the hinge must be
rollers of the tripod joint. When using a press, replaced due to the impossibility of repair
support the back of the joint and press the 3. A faulty internal joint reveals itself by
drive shaft out of it. After removing the hinge, increasing vibration when accelerating.
pull the protective cover off the drive shaft.
21. Wipe off as much of the old grease as
4. To inspect the hinges for wear, remove
the drive shafts, then remove the hinges as
possible (do not use solvent) to inspect the
described in subsection 3; If there is wear or
joint components. Inspect the tripod, support
3.17 Remove the outer joint ring from the excessive play, the corresponding CV joint
rollers , and outer race for damage or wear.
tripod should be replaced.
Also check the softness and smooth rotation
at the top of its course Check each ball for of the rollers on the tripod axes. If any of the 5. Intermediate .
cracks, dents or signs of surface pitting hinge components are worn or damaged, the right drive shaft bearing -
10. Inspect the ball tracks on the inner and entire hinge must be replaced. If the hinge is replacement
outer races. If the tracks are widened, the in satisfactory condition, you can limit
balls will no longer fit tightly into the cages. At yourself to installing a standard repair kit, Note: A suitable puller is required to remove
the same time, inspect the cage windows for consisting of a new protective cover, clamps bearings and collars from the drive shaft .
wear and cracks. and appropriate lubricant in the prescribed
11. If any of the CV joint components is quantity (see illustration)
worn out or damaged, it is necessary to 22. Install a new protective cover with a
replace the entire joint. If the CV joint is in clamp on the drive shaft.
satisfactory condition, you can confine 23. Pre-install the water shaft, install the
yourself to installing a standard repair kit, hinge on the splines, then complete the
consisting of a new protective cover for the installation of this assembly
retaining ring, clamps and appropriate 24. If the tripod joint was secured with a
lubricant in the prescribed quantity (see snap ring, install the snap ring, making sure
illustration). it fits into the groove on the drive shaft. If the
12. To install a new protective cover, follow hinge is fixed without a locking ring, install it
these procedures ( see illustrations) Be - on the drive shaft and core it at three points
careful and follow the sequence of steps using a hammer and a small core punch.
5.3 Using a universal high-access bearing
carefully. Note that you may encounter 25. Fill the tripod and protective case with
puller, remove the intermediate bearing from
different types of clamps, but the procedures half the grease from the repair kit, thoroughly
the right-hand drive shaft
will be similar to those shown. lubricating the support rollers
13. Make sure that the CV joint rotates 26. Install the spring and thrust cap into the
smoothly and unhindered in all directions, outer race, then pack the outer race with the
then install the drive shaft on the vehicle as remaining grease.
described in subsection 2 27. Pre-install the outer ring onto the tripod
and align the edge of the protective cover
Inner CV joint with the groove on the outer ring
14. Remove the drive shaft from the car as 28. Slide the outer collar to its location on
described in subsection 2. the tripod, lifting the inner edge of the
15. Measure and record the distances protective boot to remove trapped air 29.
between the inner edges of the outer and Place the outer clamp on the protective boot
inner boot and use these readings for future and compress the lip with pliers or side
installation. cutters
16. Remove the inner and outer clamp of 30. Position the inner edge of the
the protective rubber boot. sawing them with protective cover along the mark made
a small hacksaw Unclench and remove the during removal, put on the clamp and
clamps from the protective cover compress its protrusion in the same way
17. Remove the outer race of the ball from 31. Check the smooth movement of the
the tripod and remove the spring with the hinge in all planes, then install the drive
thrust cap from inside the outer race (see shaft on the car as described in subsection
illustration) When removing the outer frame, 2
check whether the tripod support rollers are
4. Drive shaft repair - general
secured with the locking rings. If the rollers information
are not secured with the locking rings, tape
them to secure them in their original position.
18. Wipe off as much old grease as
possible from the tripod and support rollers. 1. If the inspections described in Chapter
It is advisable to carry out this procedure 1A or 1B reveal possible wear in any drive
wearing protective rubber gloves. shaft joint, perform the following procedures
19. The tripod joint is fixed to the end of the to identify the source of the problem.
drive shaft either with a locking ring or by 2. Carry out a mileage test, paying attention
punching. If there is a retaining ring, remove to the presence of a metallic crackle from
В•6 Приводные валы
1. Remove the right drive shaft as described puller, carefully remove the shoulder and - installation of the bearing, press the collar
in subsection 2 of this chapter. spacer bearing from the inner end of the drive onto the shaft until it contacts the inner ring
2. Ensure that the bearing outer race shaft (see illustration) . Lubricate the inner of the bearing.
rotates easily and smoothly and that there is race of the new bearing, then slide the 4. Check that the bearing rotates smoothly
no excessive play between the inner and bearing onto the end of the drive shaft. Using and easily, then install the drive shaft as
outer races. If necessary, replace the bearing a hammer and appropriate tube, applying described in subsection 2
as follows. pressure only to the inner race, drive the new
3. Using a universal high-access bearing bearing to a location on the drive shaft until it
contacts the outer CV joint race. After final
9•П
Chapter 9
Brake system
Content
. information 1 Handbrake cables - removal and installation. 19
Brake hydraulic system - bleeding .......................................... 2 Brake light switch - removal, installation and adjustment
Hydraulic tubes and hoses - replacement 3 ............................................................................20
Front brake pads replacement 4 Handbrake application lamp switch - removal and installation 21
Rear brake pads replacement ................................................ ... 5 Anti-lock braking system (A08) - general information ............. 22
Front brake discs - inspection, removal and installation 6 Rear Anti-lock components
brake discs - inspection, removal and installation 7 Front brake brake system (AB8) - removal and installation ... 23
caliper , removal, repair and installation 8 Rear brake caliper - Vacuum pump (diesel engine models) - removal and installation
removal, repair and installation 9 Rear brake drums - ...................................................................... ... .. ... 24
removal, inspection and installation ... ........... 10 Vacuum pump (diesel engine models) - check ........................ 25
Rear brake drum pads - replacement. 11 Rear brake slave cylinder Checking the degree of wear of the front brake pads . see
- Chapter 1A or 1B
removal, repair and installation ......... ........... .12 Checking the brake fluid level
Brake master cylinder - hydraulic system , see -Weekly checks-
removal, repair and installation .13 Replacing fluid in the brake hydraulic system .... . see
Brake pedal - removal and installation 14 Chapter 1A or 1B
Vacuum booster - checking, removal and installation 15 Vacuum Checking the wear of the rear brake pads, see Chapter 1A or 1B
brake booster valve - removal.
checking and installation . 16
Handbrake - adjustment . 17
Handbrake lever - removal and installation ........................... 18
Technical data for inspection and регулировок

Front brakes With ventilated disc and single piston caliper 266 0 mm
Type
1 1 and 1 4 liter petrol and 8 valve diesel models. ...........
13 0 mm
) 6-liter petrol and 16-valve diesel models ....................... 11 0mm
.........................................................
Disc diameter .............................. ............... 22 0 mm
Disc thickness 20 0 mm 0.05 mm
Solid disc
New . ........... ..... 13 0 mm
Minimum thickness 2 0 mm
Ventilated disc.
New .................................................. '............................
Minimum thickness ............................... .. ......
Maximum axial runout of the disc
Drum type, with single brake shoe
Friction pad thickness
New ................................................... ...........................
With solid disc and single piston caliper
Minimum thickness .. ......................................................
Rear brakes 203 0 mm
Type 205.0 mm
1 1 and 1 4 liter petrol and 8 valve diesel models .......... 2 0 mm
1 6-liter petrol and 16-valve diesel models ..... ............... 247 0 mm
Drum diameter New ............................................................
Maximum . .......................................................... ....... 9.0 mm
Minimum friction lining thickness 7.0 mm
......................................................................................................
Disc diameter ... ............................ ...... ......................................
Disc thickness'
New ,...—,
Minimum thickness .
With solid disc and single piston caliper

9•г Тормозная система
Maximum axial runout of the disc. 0.05 mm

Thickness of friction linings. New . ............................ ................... 11.0 mm
Minimum thickness .20mm
Anti-lock braking system
Type . .. .............................. Teuz Mk 60
AB8 system components: Regulator mounting bolts ..................... 10
Wheel sensor mounting bolts ............................... 10
Nuts and bolts for fastening the transition bridge (for right-hand drive) 25
Drive mounting screws ...................................................................... 10
Front brake caliper
Guide pin fastening bolts. thirty
Caliper bracket mounting bolts. .. 105
Handbrake lever mounting nuts ......................................................... 15
Hydraulic tube/hose fittings. ............................................................... 15
Master cylinder mounting nuts . 20
Rear brake caliper
Guide pin mounting bolts* 38
Caliper bracket mounting bolts ..................................................... 50
Rear hub nuts .. . ... 200
Wheel bolts ..................................... ........ .... ........ ..... .. 90
Vacuum booster mounting nuts ......................................................... 20
' New nuts/bolts must be installed.
1 General information brakes are actuated by a single-piston precautions as if it were gasoline. Brake fluid
floating caliper, providing mechanical has a discoloring effect, especially on
handbrake operations. The pressure in the plastics, so if it splashes
rear brakes is regulated by the hydraulic
regulator of the AVZ system in all braking
Cars are equipped with a dual-circuit
modes.
braking system with a vacuum booster. The
All models are equipped with a
design of the hydraulic system is such that
mechanical hand brake acting on the rear
each circuit controls one front and one rear
wheels.
brake through a master brake cylinder of the
On models with diesel engines, the
■'tkdem type. Under normal conditions, both
vacuum in the intake manifold is insufficient
circuits act simultaneously. However, if one
for constant operation of the vacuum brake
of the circuits is damaged, the brake force is
booster. To solve this problem, a vacuum
applied to the two remaining wheels
pump is installed on such engines. This
All models are equipped with disc brakes
pump is installed on the rear side of the
at the front and disc or drum brakes at the
cylinder head and is driven directly by the
rear, depending on the model. AVZ is
camshaft.
installed as standard equipment on most
models. As an option, the AVZ can be Note: When working with any element of the
present on any model (refer to subsection 22 brake system, act carefully and consistently.
for more detailed information regarding the When disassembling parts of the hydraulic
system, maintain perfect cleanliness. If the
AVZ)
Disc brakes are operated by a single- condition of the part is in doubt, replace the
cylinder floating caliper, ensuring equal force part (if possible, with a set on one axis). Use
is applied to each pad. only original or proven high quality parts.
Remember the precautions outlined in the
On models with rear drum brakes, the rear
brakes consist of front and rear shoes , which “Safety First!” section. and in the relevant
are operated by two-piston wheel cylinders. parts of this chapter relating to the hazards of
asbestos dust and brake fluid
The brake wheel cylinders contain integrated
pressure valves that regulate the pressure 2 Brake '
applied to the rear brakes. The presence of
pressure valves prevents the rear wheels
hydraulic system - bleeding
from locking during emergency braking. To
automatically compensate for brake pad
wear, the brakes are equipped with a self- Warning: Brake fluid is poisonous; at . If
regulating mechanism. When the brake pad
friction linings wear, the foot brake action
A liquid gets on your skin, wash it off
immediately and thoroughly; If liquid gets
automatically activates an adjustment into your stomach or eyes, consult a doctor
mechanism that effectively lengthens the pad immediately. Some types of brake fluid are
spacer and moves the brake pads, reducing flammable and may ignite if they come into
the clearance between the friction lining and contact with hot parts; When servicing a
hydraulic system, it is best to treat any fluid
the drum
as flammable and take the appropriate
On models with rear disc brakes, the
Тормозная система 9•3
Once the liquid is removed, it should be these kits, since they greatly simplify the paragraphs 16 and 17 until. until the fluid
washed off the surface with plenty of clean bleeding procedure and reduce the risk of air flowing from the nipple no longer contains air
water. Finally, be aware that the fluid is and fluid entering the system again. If you do bubbles. If bleeding is started after the main
hygroscopic (absorbs moisture from the air). not have such a kit, you should use the usual cylinder has been emptied and refilled, wait
Old fluid may be contaminated and method of pumping together. This method is approximately five seconds between cycles
unsuitable for further use. When adding or described in detail below to allow the cylinder cavities to fill with fluid
replacing fluid, always use the recommended 9. If using a one-person bleeder kit , 19. When the appearance of air bubbles -
type of fluid and ensure that the fluid is fresh prepare the vehicle as described above and stops , tighten the nipple securely, remove
and stored in well sealed container. then follow the kit manufacturer's the tube and wrench and put on the
Caution: Make sure instructions, as the bleeder procedure may protective cap. Do not overtighten the nipple
that the ignition is turned off before starting vary slightly depending on the kit type. The 20. Repeat this procedure in the above
the bleeding procedure. Make sure there is main steps are described in the following sequence until all air has been removed from
no voltage on the AB5 hydraulic regulator sections the system and the brake pedal becomes
until bleeding is complete. Better disconnect 10. Regardless of the method of removing hard again.
the battery. If the regulator is energized air from the brake system, a certain Bleeding Air Using a Shutoff
during pumping, fluid will flow into it, sequence of actions must be followed (see
Valve Kit
rendering it unusable. Therefore, do not try to paragraphs 11 and 12) to ensure that all air
is removed from the hydraulic system. 21. As the name suggests, these kits
“control” the pumping process with the
consist of a piece of pipe with a valve that
regulator.
Leveling up prevents fluid and air removed from the
Note 1: If in models with AB5 it is impossible system from flowing back into the system.
Leveling sequence
to remove air from the hydraulic system. This Some kits include a translucent container
may be due to air getting into the AB5 11. If the hydraulic system was partially that can be positioned so that air bubbles can
regulator unit. In this case, you must contact disassembled and measures were taken to be seen escaping from the end of the tube
a specialized service station , since special eliminate leakage of brake FLUID , it is 22. The kit is connected to the nipple ,
electronic equipment is required to bleed the sufficient to bleed only this part of the which is then turned away (see illustration)
system. hydraulic system (for example, the first or The operator sits in the driver's seat, presses
second circuit).
Note 2: Since the clutch drive hydraulic
12. If a complete bleeding of the system is
system is powered from the same reservoir necessary, carry it out in the following
as the brake hydraulic system . it may also sequence
need to be bled (see Chapter 6) a} Left front brake.
b) Right front brake.
general information c) Left rear brake.
1. Correct operation of the hydraulic system b) Right rear brake.
of the yurmoz is possible only in the absence
of air in it, but this is achieved by pumping the
Method of pumping together
system. 13. Take a clean glass container of suitable
2. When bleeding the system, add only size and a piece of plastic or rubber hose of
new, clean fluid of the specified type; never suitable length that fits snugly over the nipple
reuse fluid that has spilled from the system. to bleed air, and a box wrench to loosen the
Before starting work, make sure that it is - nipples. You will also need the help of an
correct. that you have enough fluid assistant.
3. If you suspect that the wrong type of fluid 14. Remove the protective cap from the
has entered the system, flush and fill the nipple of the wheel that you are going to
entire system with clean fluid of the correct bleed, put a wrench and a tube on the nipple.
type and replace all hydraulic system seals. Place the other end of the tube in a container
4. If brake fluid is lost due to leaks, before and pour enough liquid into it so that the end
continuing work ; find and fix the leak of the tube is completely immersed in it.
5. Park the car on a level surface , turn off 15. Keep an eye on that. ensure that the
the ignition and engage first or reverse fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir is
gear, then chock the wheels and release at least above the “M1M” level throughout the
the parking brake entire procedure
16. Have your assistant press the brake
6. Make sure that all pipes and hoses are in pedal all the way down several times to build
good condition, connections are well -
up pressure, then hold the pedal down on the
tightened, and bleeder screws are tightened.
final press.
Remove dust caps and clean the area
17. With the pedal pressed, unscrew the
around the nipples of dirt.
nipple (approximately one turn) and allow the
7. Unscrew the cap of the reserve reservoir fluid and pressurized air to flow into the
of the master cylinder and add brake fluid to
container. An assistant should maintain force
the “MAX” level. Tighten the cap slightly and
on the pedal, pressing it to the floor if
do not forget to maintain the fluid level
necessary, and should not release it without
throughout the entire procedure at least
a command. When the fluid flow stops,
above the “M1M” level, otherwise there is a
tighten the nipple and ask an assistant to
risk of air entering the system .
slowly release the pedal. Check the fluid level
8. Kits for bleeding the brakes by one in the reservoir.
person are available for sale. It is
18. Repeat the steps indicated in
recommended, if possible, to use one of
disconnect the battery before working on the 4 Front brake

hydraulic system and do not connect it until pads - replacement '
the hydraulic system has been assembled
and bled. Otherwise, air may get into the AVZ
regulator block, and it can only be removed
from there using special equipment at a Warning: Disc brake pads must be
specialized service station (see subsection
2).
A changed on both wheels at the same
time; Never replace the pads on only one
wheel, otherwise unpredictable
Note: Before starting work, remember the consequences may occur when braking.
warnings about the dangers of brake fluid
Dust generated when pads wear out may
given at the beginning of subsection contain asbestos, which poses a health
2.22 Connect the kit to the nipple 2. hazard. Never blow it off with compressed air
pedal , then slowly release it • pumping is 1. If any pipe or hose needs to be or inhale an ounce of this dust. DO NOT use
repeated until the fluid flowing out of the replaced, minimize brake fluid loss by gasoline-based solvents to clean brake
pipes no longer contains air bubbles removing the master cylinder reservoir cap, parts. Use only brake cleaner or methyl
23. Keep in mind that this device makes the covering the reservoir opening with a piece alcohol.
work so much easier । It’s easy to forget of plastic wrap, and screwing the cap back
Note: During assembly you will need new
about the need to control the fluid level in the on. Alternatively, flexible hoses can, if
guide pin bolts.
tank. Make sure that the fluid level never falls necessary, be clamped using a suitable
below the “M1I” mark clamp, and metal pipe connections must be 1. Apply the parking brake, loosen the front
Bleeding Air Using a Pressure plugged (if measures have been taken to wheel bolts, then jack up the front of the car
prevent dirt from entering the brake system) and place it on stands (see “Lifting and
Bleeding Kit
24. These kits are usually powered by or closed immediately after disconnection. placing the vehicle on stands”) Remove the
compressed air contained in the spare tire. Place a rag under the connection you are front wheels 2. Press the piston into its hole,
However, be aware. What. It is likely that you about to disconnect to prevent any spilled carefully removing the caliper out (see
liquid from spreading. illustration)
will have to reduce the tire pressure
compared to normal. Carefully read the 2. If you are disconnecting a flexible hose,
first unscrew the fitting nut , then remove the
instructions included with kit 25. - A reservoir
spring clamp that secures the hose.
with brake fluid under pressure is connected
3. To loosen the fitting nuts, it is
to the main CYLINDER . The system is
recommended to have a special wrench for
pumped by alternately opening the nipples in
disassembling the brake pipes of the -
the required sequence . until the liquid
required size. If you do not have a special
flowing from the nipple no longer contains air
wrench, you can use a regular open-end
bubbles.
wrench, although if the nuts are tightly
26. The advantage of this method is that air
screwed or rusted, their edges may be
does not enter the system during pumping
damaged if the wrench breaks off. In this
due to the significant volume of liquid
case, often the only way to loosen a tight
27. Bleeding under pressure is especially -
connection is to use a self-tightening wrench,
effective when removing air from “difficult”
but this will ruin the tube and nut. after which
systems, as well as when removing air from
they will have to be replaced.
the entire system after a scheduled
replacement of liquid, etc. Always clean the fitting and the area around
All methods it before disconnecting. When disassembling
28. At the end of pumping, when the brake an assembly that has more than one fitting,
pedal has become “hard,” wash off the spilled mark the connections for proper reassembly.
liquid, tighten the nipples until they stop and 4. When replacing the brake pipe, use
put protective caps on them . original brake pipes cut to fit the nipples and
29. Check the fluid level in the master nuts. The only thing that remains for the
cylinder reservoir and, if necessary . top up owner to do is to bend it according to the
[see “ Weekly checks^) model of the replaced tube. Alternatively,
30. of the used liquid - it is not suitable for most stores selling spare parts can make
reuse . such a tube according to your sample from
31. Check the rigidity of the brake pedal If kits. But this requires knowledge of the exact
the pedal, after selecting free play, drops length of the tube. Therefore, present the
further, creating elastic resistance, this original tube to the store as a sample.
means that air has not been completely 5. When you do, do not overtighten the nuts
removed from the system and re-bleeding is of the fittings. To get a reliable connection,
required. The presence of air in the system there is no need to exercise superhuman
after proper bleeding may be due to worn strength 6. Keep an eye on it. ensure that the
master cylinder seals tubes and hoses are routed correctly without
kinks, and secure them with appropriate -
3 Hydraulic tubes and hoses - clamps and brackets. After installation,
replacement remove the polyethylene from the reservoir
and bleed the hydraulic system as described
in subsection 2. Wash off all traces of fluid
Caution: On models with the AB8 system, and check. Are the connections leaking?
8.
9. If you are installing new pads , you must
recess the caliper piston completely into the
cylinder to provide space for the pads. The
pistons can be recessed using a 3-pin clamp
or similar tool, such as a block of wood used
as a lever. Remove the clamp from the
flexible high pressure hose connected to the
caliper, then connect the bleeder kit with the
shut-off valve. Open the bleeder nipple, since
the piston is recessed in the cylinder. Excess
1. 2 Press the piston into its hole, carefully the caliper guide pin; this will be necessary if brake fluid will be collected in the special
removing the caliper out at least one lining is oiled, since the oil cannot container included in the kit (see
be removed from the lining. If only one lining illustrations). Close the bleeder valve
3. Hold the lower caliper guide pin with a is heavily worn, or there are traces of oil on
immediately before. how to extend the piston
wrench while unscrewing and removing the the linings, eliminate the cause of the
into the caliper This will prevent air from
guide pin bolt with another wrench (see problem before replacing the pads.
entering the hydraulic system
illustration ) Discard the bolt as you will need 7. If the brake pads are in good working
a new one for installation. Note: The AB8 regulator contains hydraulic
order, clean them thoroughly with a wire components that are very sensitive to
4. After the lower bolt on the guide pin has brush, paying particular attention to the sides
been removed, turn the caliper upward and back of the pads. Clean all lining impurities in the brake fluid. Even
relative to the brake pads and the support grooves, removing all large particles of dirt microscopic particles can disable the system
bracket of the mat and tie it with wire to the and wear debris. Clean the caliper bracket. by blocking it. The described method of
suspension strut (see illustration) installing the pads prevents dirt from entering
8. Before installing the pads, make sure . the brake fluid, which is removed from the
5. Remove the two pads from the caliper that the guide pins move freely in the caliper
caliper in order to be returned to the AB5
bracket . Anti-noise pads (if any) should be bracket and that the protective covers are not
regulator. This also prevents damage to the
glued to the pads, however, during operation damaged. Remove dirt and dust from the
master cylinder seals.
they may come off (see illustration) cylinder and piston, but DO NOT INHALE the
6. First measure the thickness of the brake dust as this is hazardous to your health. 10. Make sure that the spacers on the top
pads. If at least one of the pads is worn Inspect the piston boot and make sure and bottom of the caliper bracket are
beyond the permissible limit, replace all four 4.5 Remove the inner and outer brake pads installed correctly (see illustration)
11. Make sure that the friction pads on the
pads. Also, replace the pads from the caliper mounting bracket and checkpads face the brake disc , install the pads on
1. 4 Rotate the caliper upward relative to - for damage, brake fluid leakage , corrosion or the caliper bracket. If the anti-noise pads
the brake pads and support bracket piston damage. If the serviceability of these have been removed, make sure that they are
2. 3 Loosen and unscrew the lower bolt of components is in doubt, refer to subsection installed on the back of the brake pads.
4.9 a Use the appropriate tool to push in collect excess fluid installed correctly.
the caliper piston... 4.11 Make sure the spacers on the top -
4.10 b ...and with the bleed nipple open, and bottom of the caliper bracket are
fragments embedded in the surfaces of the

linings. Thoroughly clean the pad location in
the caliper body/mounting bracket
7. Before gem. how to install pads . make
sure. that the guide pins fit easily into the
caliper bracket and that the rubber boots on
the guide pins are not damaged. Use a brush
to remove dust and dirt from the caliper and
cylinder, DO NOT INHALE it. as this is a
health hazard Check that the cylinder dust
Dust from nose pads may contain asbestos, covers are intact and there are no visible
5.2a Remove the handbrake cable from the which poses a health hazard. Never blow it signs of fluid leakage, corrosion or damage.
caliper lever... off with compressed air or inhale an ounce of If these parts require attention, refer to
this dust. DO NOT use gasoline-based subsection 9
12. Lower the caliper down to its original 8. When installing new pads, it is -
solvents to clean brake parts. Use only brake
position above the linings. If the threads of necessary to recess the cylinder piston to
cleaner or methyl alcohol.
the new guide pin bolt are not coated with a make room for the pads. To recess the
locking compound, apply it (manufacturers Note: When installing, use new guide pin piston, turn it clockwise, pressing it into the
recommend the composition BocSh bolts. caliper. Use the proprietary tool SFoen ô
Garnetanalm), Reinstall the caliper, then 1. Place chocks under the front wheels and 0805. 32 to recess the pistons, which can be
screw in the guide pin bolt and tighten it to loosen the rear wheel bolts . then jack up the
the required torque, holding the pin second rear of the car and place it on supports {see.
wrench “Lifting and installing the car on supports”)
13. Press the brake pedal several times Remove the rear wheels.
until the pads are pressed against the brake 2. Using pliers, remove the handbrake
disc and normal pedal force is restored, cable from the caliper lever. Squeeze the
14. Perform the above steps on the clamp and remove the cable from the
remaining front caliper. support bracket {see. illustrations)
15. Install the wheels, then lower the 3. Loosen and unscrew the upper and
vehicle to the ground and tighten the wheel lower caliper guide pin bolts, holding the
bolts to the required torque. guide pin with a second wrench (see Fig.
16. Check the brake fluid level as illustration) Slide the caliper away from the
described in the Weekly Inspections section. mounting bracket and brake pads and tie it 5.4b ...remember the location of the gaskets
(marked with an arrow) between the pads
Caution: New pads will not brake effectively to the suspension spring with a piece of wire.
and the caliper
until they are properly worn in to the rotors.
Avoid hard braking as much as possible for
the first few hundred kilometers.
5 Rear brake pads - replacement
Warning: Disc brake pads must be
A changed at the same time.
5.4a Remove the inner and outer pads from

the caliper bracket...
4. Remove the inner and outer pads from
the caliper bracket and note the location of
the spacers between the pads and the
caliper {see. illustrations)
5. First measure the thickness of each
friction lining. If at least one lining is worn
more than allowed by the Technical Data, it
is necessary to replace all four linings of the
boat. It is also necessary to replace the pads
if at least one of them is oily, since it is
impossible to clean such pads. If one pad is
excessively worn or oily, determine the
17. Loosen and unscrew the upper and cause of the oil on the pad before installing
lower caliper guide pin bolts , holding the new pads. New pads and spring sets can be
guide pin with a second wrench purchased online
5.2b then squeeze the clamp and remove 6. If the pads are still usable , clean them
the link from the support bracket on both thoroughly with a wire brush, paying
wheels. Never replace pads on just one - particular attention to the side and back
wheel as this may cause uneven braking . metal surfaces. Clean the grooves in the
pads and remove any large particles or
Тормозная система э•7
15. Install the wheels, then lower the turn the disc, or use flat feeler gauges to
vehicle to the ground and tighten the wheel measure the gap (at some points on the
bolts to the required torque. entire surface of the disc) between the disc
17. Check the brake fluid level as and a fixed surface, such as a bracket.
described in the “Daily Checks” section. caliper mountings (see illustration) If the
Caution: New pads will not brake effectively values obtained are outside the limits
until they are properly worn in to the rotors. specified in the Technical Data, then the disc
Avoid hard braking as much as possible for should be replaced. However, you should
the first few hundred kilometers. make sure that the hub bearing is not worn
1. 8 Use a special tool to rotate the piston,

6 Передние тормозные
pressing it at the same time, purchase from диски - осмотр, снятие и
the branded network (see illustration } установка
Remove the clamp from the high pressure
Note: Before starting work, read the note at out (see (section 1A or 18). Also try to rotate
flexible hose connected to the caliper, then
the beginning of subsection 4 about the the disc 180“ on the hub. If the runout is still
connect the bleeder kit with shut-off valve. dangers of asbestos dust. the same exceeds the tolerance, the disc
Open the bleed nipple. since the piston is
should be replaced 5. Check for cracks on
recessed in the cylinder there will be excess Examination the disc, especially around the bolt holes. If
brake fluid! be collected in a special
Note: If at least one of the discs requires cracks, wear or other damage are found, the
container included in the kit. Close the
replacement, it is necessary to replace disc should be replaced.
bleeder fitting immediately before. how to
BOTH discs at the same time to ensure the
push the piston into the caliper This will
same braking torque on both wheels. Along Removal
prevent air from entering the hydraulic
with the discs, all four brake pads need to be Note: When installing, use
system.
replaced.
Note: The AB8 regulator contains hydraulic
1. Apply the parking brake, loosen the
components that are very sensitive to
front wheel bolts, then jack up the front of the
impurities in the brake fluid. Even
car and place it on stands (see “Lifting and
microscopic particles can disable the system
placing the vehicle on stands”) Remove the
by blocking it. The described method of
corresponding front wheel.
installing the pads prevents dirt from entering
the brake fluid, which is removed from the
caliper in order to be returned to the AB5
regulator. This also prevents damage to the
master cylinder seals. 9. Install the pads in
5. 6 Loosen the tension and remove the
the caliper bracket so that the pads face the
two bolts (marked with arrows) securing the
brake disc. If the anti-noise pads have been
caliper bracket to the hub fastener
removed . install them on the back of the
brake pads
10. Place the caliper in its original position
over the pads. Install new caliper guide pin
bolts and tighten them to the specified
torque. 6.4 Check the axial runout of the brake disc
using a dial indicator
2. Rotate the brake rotor slowly so that you
can inspect the entire disc on both sides. To
improve your visibility of the inside of the
disc, remove the brake pads. Small
scratches are allowed on the surface under
the pads, however, if there are significant
scratches or cracks on the disc, it must be
replaced
3. It is considered acceptable to have a
rusty ring around the perimeter of the disc,
6.3 Check the disc thickness using a which can be removed if desired. However,
micrometer if the ring has formed as a result of significant
wear of the disc under the pads, you should
11. Install the handbrake cable into the
check the thickness of the disc using a
support bracket and connect its end.
micrometer. Take measurements at various
12. Press the brake pedal several times to
points on the surface of the disc, on the inner
press the pads against the brake disc and
and outer sides of the surface under the pads
restore normal pedal pressure.
. If wear in at least one place exceeds the
13. Perform the above steps on the
maximum allowed by the Technical Data, the
remaining rear caliper.
disc must be replaced (see illustration)
14. Check the operation of the handbrake
4. Check the axial runout of the brake disc.
and, if necessary, adjust it as described in
To do this, you can use a dial indicator
subsection 17.
mounted on some fixed support and slowly
Install new caliper mounting bracket bolts . subsection 6. the battery before working on the hydraulic
6. Loosen the tension and unscrew the two system and do not reconnect it until the
bolts securing the caliper bracket to the hub Removal hydraulic system has been assembled and
(see illustration). Move the caliper away from Note: When installing, you will need new bled. Otherwise, air may enter the ABS
the disc and tie it with a piece of wire to the caliper mounting bracket bolts. regulator unit, and it can only be removed
suspension coil spring so as not to stretch 3. Remove the brake pads as described in from there using special equipment in a
the brake hose. subsection 5. service station (see subsection 2).
7. Use chalk or paint to mark the position of Note 1: Before starting work, read the
4. Using a hex key, unscrew the two screws
the disc on the hub, then remove the screws warning at the beginning of Subsection 2
securing the caliper mounting bracket to the
securing the disc to the hub and remove the about the dangers of brake fluid and the
steering axle and remove the bracket (see
disc. If it is tight, lightly tap the back side with illustration) warning in Subsection 4 about the dangers
a wooden hammer
5. Use chalk or paint to mark the location of of asbestos dust.
Installation the disc on the hub, then remove the screws Note 2: When installing, you will need new
securing the disc to the hub and remove the bolts for the guide pin and caliper mounting
8. Installation is carried out in reverse
disc. If it is tight, lightly tap the back side with bracket.
order, taking into account the following
a wooden mallet (see illustration)
points
Removal
a) Make sure the mating surfaces of the Installation 1. Apply the handbrake, loosen the
disc and hub are clean and flat. 6. Installation is carried out in reverse corresponding bolts of the front wheels, then
b) Align (if they were made) the marks order, taking into account the following jack up the front of the car and place it on
made during removal and tighten the points: a) Make sure that the mating surfaces stands (see “Lifting and placing the vehicle
disk mounting screws to the required
of the hub and disc are clean and flat. on stands”) Remove the corresponding
torque.
b) Align (if they were made) the marks wheel
c) When installing a new disc, wash off the
made during removal and tighten the 2. To minimize fluid loss, unscrew the
protective lubricant from the disc with a
disk mounting screws to the required reservoir cap, cover the filler neck with a
solvent before installing the caliper.
torque. piece of polyethylene and screw the cap
6 ) Install the wheel bolts, then lower the
c) When installing a new disc, wash off the back on. Alternatively, clamp the front brake
vehicle to the ground and tighten the
protective lubricant from the disc with a hose with a hose clamp or clamp, or other
bolts to the specified torque. Before
solvent before installing the caliper . similar device with protected jaws (see
leaving, press the brake pedal several
b) Install the wheel, then lower it . Place the illustration)
times to bring the pads and disc into
vehicle on the ground and tighten the wheel 3. Clean the area around the brake
contact.
bolts to the required torque. When finished, hose/caliper connection, then loosen the
7 Rear brakes . press the brake pedal several times to bring connection.
disks - inspection, removal and installation the pads into contact with the disc. 4. Loosen the tension and remove both
bolts of the caliper guide pin ( see illustration
4.3) Discard the bolts as you will need new
Note: Before starting work, read the note at
ones during installation. Move the soup
the beginning of subsection 5 about the
dangers of asbestos dust.
Inspection
Note: If at least one of the drives requires
replacement, you must replace BOTH drives
at the same time to ensure the same
7.5 Unscrew the screws with a hex key and

remove the disk
8 . 4 Using a hex wrench, remove the two

screws (marked with arrows) from the brake
torque caliper mounting bracket on both
wheels. Along with the discs, all four brake
pads need to be replaced.
1. Place wedges under the front wheels, 8.2 To minimize fluid loss, clamp the front
loosen the bolts of the corresponding rear brake hose with a hose clamp
wheel, then jack up the rear of the car and
place it on stands (see “Lifting and placing 8 Front brake caliper - removal, repair
the vehicle on stands”) Remove the and installation ■ '.
corresponding wheel.
2. Check the disk as described in Caution: On models with ABS, disconnect
port away from the brake rotor, then using a circular motion. Press the piston wheel.
disconnect the caliper from the brake high completely into the cylinder, then insert the 2. Remove the brake pads as described in
pressure line. Note that the brake pads may inner edge of the boot into the groove of the subsection 5
remain in the caliper bracket piston. 3. To minimize fluid loss, unscrew the cap
5. If necessary, you can remove the hub 16. If you replaced the guide pins, lubricate of the reserve reservoir, cover the filler neck
mounting bolt from the caliper mounting them with the special grease provided in the with a piece of polyethylene and screw the
bracket. Discard the bolts as you will need repair kit, then install the boots in the grooves cap back on. Alternatively, clamp the brake
new ones during installation. of the fingers. Insert the fingers into the hose with a hose clamp or clamp or other
caliper bracket and insert the boots into the similar device with protected jaws in a
Repair grooves of the bracket. convenient place closest to the brake caliper.
Note: Before disassembling, check the 4. Clean the area around the connection
suitability of the caliper repair kit. Installation between the brake hose and the caliper, then
6. Secure the caliper in a vice, thoroughly 17. Install the caliper mounting bracket loosen the connection and disconnect the
clean it of dust and dirt, but try not to inhale onto the hub mounting, if removed, and brake hose from the caliper (see illustration)
it, as it is very dangerous to health tighten the new bolts to the specified torque. Plug the hose and caliper connection ,
7. Remove the partially squeezed out pore 18. Screw the caliper onto the flexible hose avoiding fluid loss and dirt entering the
- shadow from the caliper body and remove fitting until it stops. system.
its boot 19. Make sure. that the brake pads are still
in the bracket, then install the brake port in
If the piston cannot be removed from the place (see subsection 4).
cylinder by hand, try applying compressed 20. If the threads of the new bolts on the
air inside the cylinder. The air pressure caliper guide pin are not already coated with
should be low; a tire inflator will suffice for a fastening compound, apply a suitable
this purpose. When removing the piston, be locking compound to them (the company
extremely careful not to recommends Bobshe Egepetapsb). Screw in
секты the new lower pin bolt, press the caliper
get your fingers caught
ЭКСПЕРТА between the piston and against the seating surface and screw in the
the caliper. top bolt. Tighten both bolts to the required
torque,
1. 1I)Using a small screwdriver, carefully 21. Tighten the hose fitting nut to the 9.4 Unscrew the connecting nut (marked
pry and remove the piston seal from the required torque, then remove the hose clamp with an arrow)
cylinder , being careful not to damage the - (or remove the plastic film from under the
caliper bore. reservoir cap)
9. Carefully clean all parts with methyl 22. Bleed the brake system (see
alcohol (or clean brake fluid ) Never clean - subsection 2). Keep in mind that if you have
brake components with gasoline as this will followed the rules for preventing brake fluid
destroy all rubber seals in the brake system leaks, it is sufficient to bleed only the
Dry parts with compressed air or wipe them corresponding front brake circuit.
with a clean cloth Blow out all passages with 23. Install the wheel, then lower the vehicle
compressed air to the ground and tighten the wheel bolts to
10. Check the condition of all components the required torque.
and replace worn or damaged ones. 9 Rear brake caliper - removal, repair
Particularly carefully inspect the piston and and installation '
the inner surface of the cylinder. If these
parts have deep scratches or are worn out, Caution: On models with ABS, disconnect
the entire assembly must be replaced. - the battery before working on the hydraulic
Inspect the guide pins and their covers. Both system and do not reconnect it until the
fingers should not be damaged and slide in hydraulic system has been assembled and
the caliper with little effort, but smoothly. If bled. Otherwise, air may get into the ABS
you have any doubts about the serviceability regulator unit, and it can only be removed
of any component, replace it. from there using special equipment in a
11. If you plan to reinstall the unit, service station (see subsection 2).
purchase the appropriate repair kit. The - Note 1: Before starting work, read the
branded chain of stores offers various repair warning at the beginning of Subsection 2
kits. All rubber boots and seals must be about the dangers of brake fluid and the
replaced, regardless of their condition. warning in Subsection 5 about the dangers
12. Before assembling the caliper, wash of asbestos dust.
and dry all parts.
Note 2: Reassembly will require new
13. Dip the piston and new piston seal into
mounting bracket and caliper guide pin bolts.
clean brake fluid. Apply clean brake fluid to
the inside of the cylinder. Removal
14. Install (using your hands only) the new
1. Place chocks under the front wheels,
piston seal into the cylinder groove.
loosen the corresponding rear wheel bolts ,
15. Place the new boot on the back of the
then jack up the rear of the vehicle and place
piston and press the outer edge of the boot
it on stands (see “Lifting and placing the
into the groove of the caliper housing.
vehicle on stands”). Remove the appropriate
Carefully press the piston into the cylinder
5. Remove the caliper from the car. If and use a new nut.
necessary, you can remove the hub 5. Remove the brake drum from the pivot
mounting bolt from the caliper mounting pin by hand (see illustration) When removing
bracket. Discard the bolts as new ones the drum, difficulties may arise due to the
should be used during installation. hub bearing being too tight or the gap
between the drum and the shoes being too
Repair small. If the bearings prevent the drum from
6. Before starting repairs, make sure that being removed, tap the back of the drum with
all spare parts are available. Although a plastic hammer or use a universal puller
genuine spare parts are not supplied (except that can be screwed onto the wheel bolts. If
for guide pin bolts, guide pins and guide pin the brake pads are preventing the drum from
guards), it is possible to purchase a repair kit being removed , make sure that the parking
10.2 Аккуратно подденьте отверткой и brake is completely released. If necessary,
from a dealer network. Be sure to purchase
снимите пылезащитный колпачок в unscrew the handbrake adjusting nut to
the correct caliper repair kit for the caliper
центре тормозного барабана create maximum slack in the cable, as
being repaired Mark the locations of all
components for proper assembly and apply Removal described in subsection 17. Now you can
clean brake fluid to the new seals Follow the 1. Place chocks under the front wheels. Lift easily remove the drum
instructions included with the repair kit the rear part of the car with a jack and place Inspection
it on supports (see “Lifting and placing the
Installation car on supports”) Remove the corresponding
Note: If at least one of the drums requires
7. Install the caliper mounting bracket onto rear wheel and release the handbrake. replacement, BOTH drums must be replaced
the hub mounting, if it was previously 2. Carefully pry up with a screwdriver and at the same time to ensure equal braking
removed, and tighten the new bolts to the remove the dust cap in the center of the torque on both wheels. Along with the drums,
specified torque. brake drum (see illustration ). Discard the all four brake pads need to be replaced.
8. Install the brake pads as described in cap as a new one is required during 6. Carefully remove all traces of dust from
subsection 5. installation. the surface of the brake drum, but be careful
9. Install the caliper and new guide pin 3. Using a hammer and chisel, hammer out not to inhale it. because it is very hazardous
bolts Tighten the bolts to the specified torque the rear hub nut. to health 7. Clean the outer surface of the
10. Connect the caliper to the brake hose Warning: Wear special goggles or eye drum and check for wear
and tighten the brake hose connecting nut to
the specified torque. Remove the clamp from Aprotection.
4. Loosen and unscrew the rear hub
the brake hose or the polyethylene from the nut with a socket wrench and extension and
neck of the master cylinder reservoir (where remove the washer (see illustrations)
used). Discard the hub nut. At
11. Bleed the hydraulic system as
described in subsection 2. Note that if the
described precautions are followed, brake
fluid losses are reduced to a minimum. It is
only necessary to bleed the corresponding
rear brake.
12. Install the wheels, then lower the
10.46 ..and remove the washer
vehicle to the ground and tighten the wheel
bolts to the specified torque.
10 Rear brake drums - removal.

inspection and installation
4.4 a Loosen and unscrew the rear hub
Note 1: Before starting work, read the note at nut...
the beginning of subsection 5 about the
4.5 Remove the brake drum from the
dangers of asbestos dust.
steering axle
Note 2: When installing, you will need a new
rear hub nut and boot.
10.12 Установите гайку строго в уг-

лубление на поворотной цапфе для
фиксации в местоположении
Тормозная система 9 • П *1
or damage, such as cracks near the holes for са, опустите автомобиль на землю и Note: The components discussed may be
the wheel bolts. If defects are found, replace затяните болты крепления колес тре- subject to minor modifications, but the
the drum буемым моментом. operating principles described in the
8. Carefully check the inner surface of the 11 Rear brake drum pads - following sections apply equally to all
drum. Minor scratches or burrs are replacement drum - in other words, models. Carefully mark the original positions
acceptable, but if deep defects are found, the completely replace the pads on one of all components before disassembling.
drum must be replaced. Usually, a protrusion side before starting work on the 1. Remove the rear brake drums . as
formed by a mixture of rust and dust is found other side. This way you will always described in subsection 10 2. Working from
inside at the edge of the drum. This should one side of the vehicle, clean dirt and dust
be scraped off so that a smooth surface is А Предупреждение: Колодки from the rear shield and drum. Avoid
left that can be sanded with fine sandpaper ( барабанных тормозов должны меняться breathing dust as it poses health hazards
120-150 units). However, if the lip is formed одновременно на обоих задних колесах. 3. Mark the position of the gate and
due to metal wear from the brake pads, the Никогда не заменяйте колодки только retaining spring pads
drum will need to be replaced на одном колесе, поскольку это может 4. Using pliers, release the handbrake
9. Using an internal micrometer, measure вызвать неравномерное торможение. auxiliary spring from the handbrake lever,
the inside diameter of the drum at several Пыль, образующаяся при износе колодки, then disconnect the auxiliary spring from the
points to check for wear and out-of- может содержать асбест, который brake shoe and from the lower return spring
roundness. Measure in two mutually представляет опасность для здоровья. (see illustrations}
perpendicular directions. If the drum Никогда не сдувайте ее сжатым 5. Remove the brake pad retaining spring
diameter does not exceed the maximum воздухом и не вдыхайте ни грамма этой clamp. Use pliers to remove the spring
permissible value regulated by the Technical пыли. Не пользуйтесь растворителями clamp. pressing the pin with your finger from
Requirements. it can be sharpened or на основе бензина для очистки деталей the back of the brake shield (see illustration)
ground. If this is not possible, the drum must тормоза. Используйте только Remove the spring clips from the pins, then
be replaced. Note that if the drum is to be очиститель тормоза или метиловый remove the pins from the rear part of the
bored, BOTH drums must be machined to спирт. brake shield.
maintain the same internal diameter on both Производите полный 6. Disconnect the lower ends of the brake
sides комплекс работ на shoes from the bar at the base and pull the
СМЕТЫ каждом upper ends away from the pistons of the
Installation ЭКСПЕРТА brake cylinder . Remove the brake pad
10. If installing a new drum, wash off the assembly and disconnect the cable manually
protective grease from the inside of the have an assembled drum on one side for
drum. You may have to turn the spacer reference while working on the other side.
wheel to shorten the adjusting spacer to the
diameter of the new drum.
11. Make sure. that the parking brake lever
stop is positioned correctly relative to the
shoe, then lubricate the steering axle with
clean engine oil and install the drum
assembly.
12. Install a new washer and hub nut and
tighten the hub nut to the specified torque.
Install the nut strictly into the recess • on the mu. 4b ... then disconnect the auxiliary spring
pivot pin to secure it in position (see from the brake pad and from the lower return
illustration). spring
13. Install a new dust cap in the center of 11.4a Release the auxiliary spring from the
the brake drum. handbrake lever...
14. Press the brake pedal several times to
activate the automatic brake clearance
adjustment mechanism .
15. Repeat the above steps on the
remaining drum (if necessary), then check
and, if necessary, adjust the parking brake
cable (see subsection 17).
16. When finished, install the stake
11.6a Disconnect the lower ends of the

brake pads from the bar at the base ...
11.5 Remove the retaining spring clamp by
pressing the pin with your finger on the back
of the brake shield
contact with the brake pads during operation,

especially the pistons of the service brake -
cylinder and the lower steering axis. Do not
allow lubricant to come into contact with
friction material.
14. Place the adjusting lever in a vise in the
correct home position and install the
adjusting lever to its alignment guide on the
drive brake shoe. Hook the long end of the
adjusting lever return spring into the
corresponding slot in the rear of the brake
11.6c Remove the brake pad assembly and
shoe, then hook the other end to the hook of
1. .6b ...AND pull the upper ends away from disconnect the hand brake cable from the
the adjusting lever (see illustrations) .
the pistons of the brake slave cylinder driven brake pad lever
15. Set the minimum length of the
th brake from the boat brake lever (see signs of wear or damage. Pay special adjusting post using the adjusting wheel,
illustrations) attention to the threads and grooves of the then connect the end of the post to the drive
7. Tie a wire or put a rubber band on the adjustment wheels and. if necessary, brake shoe and the adjusting lever (see
pistons of the brake wheel cylinder, replace them All return springs must be illustration)
preventing the pistons from coming out replaced, regardless of their condition; 16. Hook the long straight end of the upper
8. After securing the block in a vise, Spring repair kits can be purchased from the return spring onto the edge of the hole in the
disconnect the lower return spring from the company's network. drive brake shoe , then connect the other
driving brake shoe, then disconnect it from 12. Straighten the rubber protective caps short end of the spring to the driven brake
the driven one. and check the brake slave cylinder for leaks shoe (see illustrations )
9. Disconnect the pads at the base and or other damage; Also check that both 17. Separate the pads at the base and
disconnect the adjusting post from the pistons of the cylinder move smoothly and install the adjusting stand on the handbrake
handbrake lever and the drive brake shoe easily. Refer, if necessary, to subsection 12 lever (see illustration )
10. Remove the upper return spring, then for information regarding replacing the brake 18. Hook the larger end of the lower return
remove the return spring adjusting lever and wheel cylinder. spring over the edge of its hole through the
the drive brake shoe adjusting lever. 13. Before installation, clean the brake back of the guide spring.
11. Remove the split end of the brake shield and lubricate with a thin layer of heat-
assembly from the rack and carefully check resistant brake grease or anti-stick
the assembly for compound all surfaces that come into
11. 14a Install the adjusting lever according

to its installation guide on the drive brake
shoe...
11.16Р ...then connect the other short end of 2. .17 Attach the other end of the
the spring to the driven brake shoe adjustment post to the handbrake lever
1. .16a Hook the long straight end of the 11.15 Connect the end of the strut to the -
upper return spring onto the edge of the hole drive brake shoe and the adjusting lever
in the drive brake shoe.
11.14P then connect the return spring to the
adjusting lever and brake shoe
3. . 18 Hook the larger end of the lower -

return spring over the edge of its hole through 11.19 Bring the pads together at the base 11.20 Make sure all components are
the back of the brake pad. and connect the lower return spring to the installed and connected correctly
drive brake pad
my brake pads (see illustration of the walkie- 12 Rear brake wheel cylinder -
talkie) 25. Slightly spread the upper ends of the removal; repair and installation' xc
19. Make sure that the adjustment post is brake pads and remove the rubber band or V*
positioned correctly, bring the pads together wire holding the pistons of the brake wheel
at the base and connect the lower return cylinder (see illustration) Removal
spring to the drive brake pad (see illustration) 26. Turn the strut adjusting wheel with a 1. Remove the brake pads as described in
20. y . KINS pra screwdriver, spreading the pads and setting subsection 11.
correctly placed and the adjusting post is the diameter to 202.5 mm, then check that 2. To minimize fluid loss, unscrew the
connected to the drive brake shoe and the brake drum just slides over the pads (see master cylinder reservoir cap, then cover the
handbrake lever (see illustration) illustration), reservoir neck with a piece of plastic film and
21. V. tanovitr brake pad assembly on the 27. Install the brake drum as described in screw the cap on to create a tight seal.
car and connect the handbrake cable to the subsection 10 Alternatively, clamp the brake hose with a
handbrake lever. Install the pads on the 28. Repeat the above procedure on the hose clamp, clamp, or similar device with
brake shield. by interacting their upper ends remaining rear brake, 29. After installing the protected jaws at a convenient location
and the pistons of the working brake cylinder, brake shoes on both sides, depress the closest to the slave cylinder.
22. Install the driving brake shoe onto the brake pedal several times, establishing the 3. Clean the area around the connection
bar in the base, then install the lower end of normal gap between the shoes and the drum. between the brake tube and the wheel
the driven shoe onto the bar in the base. Have an assistant listen to the rear brake cylinder and unscrew the connection nut.
23. Install the retaining spring pins onto the mechanism. When pressing the pedal from Carefully disconnect the tube from the
brake shield. Squeeze the spring clamp with the correctly installed adjustment lever, it cylinder and plug or cover the holes with
pliers while pressing the pin against the back should a metallic clicking sound comes out. adhesive tape. Immediately wipe off all
of the brake shield with your fingers. Move 30. Check and, if necessary . adjust the traces of spilled brake fluid.
the spring clamps onto the spring pins. parking brake as described in subsection 17 4. On the back of the brake shield, remove
24. Hook the handbrake lever's auxiliary 31 . Finally, check the brake fluid level as the two cylinder mounting bolts and remove
spring over the edge of the hole in the brake described in Weekly Inspections. the cylinder.
shoe and over the end of the lower return Caution: New brake pads will not brake
spring. Stretch the other end of the auxiliary effectively until they are worn into the drum. Installation
spring and connect it to the handbrake lever Avoid hard braking for the first few hundred Models without AB5 system
kilometers. 5. On models without the AB5 system, the
rear brake pressure control valves are an
integral part of the rear brake wheel
cylinders. Cylinders should not be
disassembled. Spare parts for rear wheel
brake cylinders are not supplied; if worn or
damaged, the cylinders must be replaced
entirely
Models with AB5 system
6. Remove all traces of dirt and brake dust
11.25 Without removing the pads, remove from the outer surface of the cylinder.
the rubber band or wire holding the pistons 7. Remove the dust seals from the ends of
of the brake wheel cylinder 11.26 Use a screwdriver to turn the the cylinder
adjusting wheel of the rack, spreading the 8. Remove the pistons, spring seat seals
pads to the set diameter and return spring, if provided by the design .
marking everyone's location
components for correct post -assembly supply pipe from the brake master cylinder and fill the reservoir with clean brake fluid.
9. Check the surfaces of the cylinder and reservoir and drain the remaining fluid into a Bleed the brake system (see subsection 2).
pistons for signs of wear and corrosion and, container. Plug the tube to prevent dirt from Note: The clutch drive hydraulic system is fed
if any, signs. Replace the entire brake wheel entering the system from the master cylinder reservoir and may
cylinder. If the components arrive in good 4. Thoroughly clean the pipe connections to also need bleeding (see Chapter 6).
condition, remove the seals and purchase a the master cylinder and place a rag under
14 Brake pedal -
repair kit containing all the components them (to prevent brake fluid from spreading).
needed for replacement. Remember the location of the pipes. then
10. Clean the pistons and cylinder with unscrew the fitting nuts and carefully
dena turate or clean brake fluid and disconnect the pipelines. Plug the ends of the
reassemble in the reverse order of removal, pipes and the holes in the master cylinder to Removal
ensuring that the components are correctly prevent dirt from entering the hydraulic 1. Remove the lower trim panel above the
positioned according to the notes made system. Immediately wash off any spilled pedals on the driver's side. as described in
brake fluid with cold water. Chapter 1 1
before disassembly. Ensure that the seal lips
2. Pull the clamp and remove the pin
face the cylinder. 5. Loosen the tension and unscrew the two securing the intermediate link (right-hand
11. Finally, wipe the outside surfaces of the nuts securing the master cylinder to the drive models) or the vacuum booster link
dust seals. removing excess brake fluid vacuum booster and remove the master - (left-hand drive models) to the pedal (see
cylinder from the engine compartment. If the illustration) Discard the pin as you should use
Installation seal located on the rear hub of the master the
12. Clean the surfaces of the brake shield cylinder is worn or damaged, replace it. If
and install the wheel cylinder in its place, necessary, unscrew the screw and remove
then install and tighten the bolts to the the reservoir from the master cylinder.
specified torque.
13. Connect the brake pipe to the rear of
Repair
the brake wheel cylinder, being careful not to 6. To repair the master cylinder, -
contaminate the brake system. manufacturers do not produce a repair kit,
14. Install the brake pads as described in but it can be purchased from repair
subsection 11. specialists or at a car dealership. Make sure
15. Finally, remove the clamp from the again before starting work. that you have the
appropriate repair kit for repairing the master
brake pipe or remove the plastic film from
under the cap of the master cylinder reservoir brake cylinder. Remember - 3. .3 Loosen and unscrew the swivel bolt
Bleed the brake system (see subsection 2) and nut (marked by arrows)
Keep in mind that if you followed the rules for
preventing brake fluid leakage, it is enough
to bleed only the corresponding circuit of the
rear brakes
13 Main brake cylinder - removal,

repair and installation
Caution: On models with ABS, disconnect

the battery before working on the hydraulic
system and do not reconnect it until the 14.2 Pull the pin retainer (marked with an
hydraulic system has been assembled and
arrow) to locate all parts and moisten all
bled. Otherwise, air may enter the AB5
seals with clean brake fluid before installing
regulator unit, and it can only be removed
them. The repair kit contains a description of
from there using special equipment in a
the repair sequence.
service station (see subsection 2).
Note: Before starting work, read the note at Installation
the beginning of subsection 2 about the 7. Remove all traces of dirt from the master
dangers of brake fluid. cylinder and vacuum booster and install the
O-ring at the rear of the master cylinder
Removal 8. Install the master cylinder to the vacuum
1. Remove the battery with its casing (see booster. Screw in the master cylinder
(section 5). mounting nuts and tighten them to the
2. Remove the cap and filter from the required torque.
master cylinder reservoir and remove all 9. Clean the pipe connectors , connect
brake fluid from the reservoir. them to the master cylinder and tighten the
On a note. Do not suck out brake fluid with union nuts to the required torque.
your mouth as it is poisonous; use a rubber 10. Carefully reinstall the brake master
bulb or an old hydrometer. An alternative way cylinder reservoir, if it was previously
is to drain the brake fluid through any of the removed, making sure that its position on the
nipples for bleeding the brake system, rubber seals is correct. Install and securely
smoothly pressing and releasing the brake tighten the fastening screw 11. Connect the
pedal (see subsection 2). supply pipe of the clutch master cylinder and
the hydraulic fluid level sensor connector
3. Disconnect the clutch master cylinder
12. Reinstall all the removed components
Тормозная система 9 • 15
16 Brake booster valve -

Removal
1. Squeeze the keys on the connector and
connect the hose from the vacuum booster
valve.
2. Pull the valve out of the rubber sealing
sleeve using a rotating pulling motion ( see
illustration) Remove the bushing from the
1 5. 9 Unscrew the four nuts (marked with vacuum booster.
15.8 Turn the pin (marked with an arrow) and arrows) securing the brake booster
remove it to call a new one Examination
3. Loosen and unscrew the swivel bolt and 3. If the amplifier still does not work . This 3. Check that the valve is not damaged and
nut (see illustration). then remove the brake means that the vacuum booster itself is replace it if necessary. The valve can be
pedal from the vehicle. Remove the spacers faulty. The amplifier cannot be repaired - if it checked by blowing in both directions. Air
and washer (where provided by design) from malfunctions, replace it entirely should only flow in one direction - away from
the pedal shaft. Inspect all parts and make the amplifier. If the valve is faulty, replace it.
Removal
sure there is no wear or damage. Replace 4. Inspect the rubber bushing and vacuum
4. Remove the master cylinder (see under
faulty parts hose and. if necessary, replace them.
section 13)
Installation 5. Release the wiring harness adjacent to Installation
the vacuum booster from the clamps and 5. Insert the sealing sleeve into the vacuum
4. Apply some all-purpose grease to the move it to the side.
gasket and washer, then insert them into the 6. Squeeze the keys on the connector and booster
hole in the pedal axle 6. Carefully push the valve into place, being
disconnect the hose from the vacuum - careful not to dislodge or damage the
5. Reinstall the pedal after making sure . booster valve.
that it is positioned correctly relative to the 7. Remove the panel holding the carpet - bushing. Connect the vacuum hose to the
vacuum booster pusher Insert the swivel bolt, under the left side of the console. valve
screw the nut onto it and tighten it to the 8. Turn the pin connecting the intermediate 7. At the end of the work, start the engine
required torque and make sure that there is no air leakage at
rod to the vacuum booster rod (right-hand
6. Align the pedal with the pushrod, insert drive models) or the vacuum booster rod pin the junction of the valve with the vacuum
the new pin and secure it with the clamp(s) (left-hand drive models) and remove it (see booster.
8. Install the bottom panel onto the console . illustration) Discard the pin as a new one
17 Handbrake -
should be used during installation. adjustment
15 Vacuum '.
9. Loosen and unscrew the four nuts .
amplifier - checking, removal and securing the rubber casing to the pedal
installation transition bridge (see illustration). 1. To check the handbrake adjustment,
10. Remove the vacuum booster from its using moderate force, fully tighten the
Examination location along with its gasket installed handbrake lever, counting the number of
1. To check the operation of the vacuum between the booster and the housing. If there clicks emitted by the handbrake
booster, press the brake pedal several times are signs of wear or damage, replace the ratchet mechanism. If the
to remove vacuum from the brake booster. gasket adjustment is correct, 2 clicks should
Then, without releasing the pedal, start the be heard before the handbrake
Installation
engine. When the engine starts, the pedal begins to operate and no more than
should “move forward” and you should feel 8 before it is fully applied.
order of removal. Please note the following
the pedal loosening. Let the engine run for at
points:
least two minutes, then turn off the ignition.
In order to press the pedal, normal force а) Lubricate all connections between the
should be required, but with subsequent bridge and the pushers with multi-
presses the pedal should become more rigid purpose grease .
and with each press the pedal stroke should c) Tighten all bolts and nuts of the vacuum
decrease booster and mounting bracket to the
2. If the amplifier does not operate as required torque.
described in the beginning, check the c) Install the master cylinder (see
vacuum valve as described in subsection 16. subsection 13) and completely pump -
On models with a diesel engine, check the the brake system (see subsection 2).
operation of the vacuum pump (see б) In any case, replace the linkage pins.
16.2 Brake booster valve
subsection 25).
□ • 16 Тормозная система
6. Disconnect the cable sheath from its

attachment points to the metal guide pipe.
7. On models with rear drum brakes ,
remove the rear brake pads from the
corresponding side, as described in
subsection 11, then remove the cable sheath
from the brake shield (see illustration )
8. On models with rear disc brakes, using
pliers, remove the hand brake cable from the
caliper lever. Squeeze the clamp and remove
the cable from the brake support bracket .
illustrations 5.2a and 5.2b)
17.2 Снимите кожух рычага ручного 17.5 Handbrake cable adjusting nut (marked
9. Moving back along the cable, release it
тормоза с консоли с помощью with arrow)
from the clamps and clamp on the
If this is not the отвертки
case, adjust the brake as Installation suspension arm. Remove the front end of the
follows. cable from the metal guide pipe and remove
2. Remove the lever cover 6. Installation is performed in sequence . the cable from under the car.
moz from the console using a screwdriver reverse to withdrawal. Tighten the parking
(see illustration} brake lever mounting nuts to the required Installation
3. Place chocks under the front wheels, torque and adjust the parking brake cable
10. Installation is performed in sequence .
then jack up the rear of the car and place it (see subsection 17)
reverse removal Adjust the parking brake
on jack stands. cable (see subsection 17),
19 Manual cables
4. Tighten the handbrake lever 10 times.
On the last tightening, stop the lever after the
brakes - removal and installation 20 Brake light switch - removal,
second click is heard. installation and adjustment
5. Tighten the brake cable adjusting nut on
the handbrake lever until the rear brake pads Removal 1. The brake light switch is located on the
make contact with the disc or drum (see 1. The handbrake cable consists of left and intermediate link bracket behind the console
illustration) right sections connecting the rear brakes to on the passenger side. There are two
6. Release the lever and check by hand . the adjuster mechanism on the handbrake switches located there. The brake light
see if the rear wheels rotate freely then check
lever. Sections of the handbrake cable can switch is the one. which is on the right
if the ratchet mechanism makes more than 8 be removed individually.
clicks before the handbrake is fully applied 2. Chock the front wheels, loosen the Removal
7. Install the handbrake lever housing and corresponding rear wheel bolts, then jack up 2. Working from the passenger side,
lower the vehicle. the rear of the vehicle and place it on jack remove the center pins, loosening the plastic
stands (see “Jacking the Vehicle and rivets, and remove the trim panel under the
18 Handbrake lever - removal and Installing Stands”) Remove the glove compartment on the passenger side.
installation corresponding rear wheel, 3. Disconnect the wire connector, then turn
3. Remove the center console as described the switch 90' counterclockwise and remove
Removal in Chapter 11. it from the bracket.
4. Loosen the handbrake adjuster nut to
1. Place chocks under the front wheels,
then jack up the rear of the car and
make it possible to remove the Installation and adjustment
corresponding end of the cable from the 4. Pull the switch rod out completely , then
place it on jack stands (see “Jacking
equalizer plate, as described in subsection manually press the brake pedal.
the car and installing jack stands”).
17. 5. Install the switch into the mounting
2. Remove the center console as
5. Unscrew the nuts, unfasten the plastic bracket, then depress the brake pedal until it
described in (chapter 11
rivets and remove the corresponding plastic stops. So now the switch should be installed
3. Lower the parking brake lever and
panel from the side of the fuel tank correctly
loosen the adjusting nut to ensure maximum
free play in the cable. Remove the cable from 6. Connect the wire connector and check
the equalizer plate and remove it from the the operation of the brake lights. Install the
lever. glove compartment.
4. Disconnect the connector from the
parking brake warning switch and release the
cable from the clamp
5. Unscrew the three nuts securing the -
lever and remove the lever from the car
19.7 Remove the cable sheath from the -

brake shield
Тормозная система 9*17
pumps hydraulic fluid back into the master 2. The hydraulic regulator is located
cylinder, releasing the brake. When the in the front left corner of the engine
wheel speed stabilizes within normal limits, compartment. Loosen the bolts of the
the pump turns off and the solenoid valves left front wheel, jack up the front of the
switch, allowing brake fluid to flow from the car and install axle supports (see
master cylinder to the caliper or wheel “Lifting the car with a jack and installing
cylinder, turning the brake back on again. supports”) Remove the wheels
This cycle can be repeated many times 3. Unfasten the plastic rivets , unscrew the
within one second. screws and remove the front wheel
The operation of solenoid valves and the protection
21.2 Location of the handbrake application pump creates impulses in the hydraulic 4. Cut the clip that secures the housing to
lamp switch (marked with an arrow) system. When AB8 is activated, these the main regulator wiring harness connector.
impulses are felt through the brake pedal. Bend the casing, lift the latch and disconnect
21 Handbrake application lamp The operation of the AB8 system is the connector (see illustration)
switch - removal and installation completely dependent on electrical signals. 5. Mark the location of the hydraulic pipes
To prevent the system from reacting to any for correct subsequent installation, then
inaccurate signals, the circuit safety system unscrew
Removal monitors all signals received by the control
1. । /. ventral console as described in unit. When inaccurate signals are received or
Chapter 11 the battery voltage drops, the AB8 system
2. Disconnect the wire connector from the automatically turns off. The hazard warning
handbrake light switch and release the cable light on the dashboard lights up, informing
from the clamp (see illustration) the driver that the AB8 system has been
3. Unfasten the switch from the lever and turned off. In any case, the brakes can
remove it from the car operate normally
The strengthened SZ is also equipped
22 Anti-lock braking system with additional safety equipment. related to
(AB5) - general information the AB8 system This is a system - EURO
(electronic brake force distribution), which
Installation automatically distributes the braking force 23.4 Bend the cover, lift the latch and
4. Installation is performed in sequence . between the front and rear wheels. EBA disconnect the connector
reverse withdrawal (Additional Emergency Brake), which
provides full braking force in the event of an
AB8 is installed as standard equipment
emergency stop by controlling the degree of
on most models and can be installed as an
pedal pressure and (on some models) E8P
option on all others. The system consists of
(Electronic Stability Program), which
a hydraulic governor and four wheel speed
monitors the vehicle's turning forces and
sensors. The hydraulic governor consists of
steering angle, then applies braking force to
an electronic control unit, hydraulic solenoid
the corresponding wheel to increase vehicle
valves and an electric return pump. The
stability
purpose of the system is to prevent wheel(s)
If there is a malfunction in any of these
from locking during emergency braking.
systems , the vehicle must be taken to a
This is achieved by releasing the brake
company workshop or a suitably equipped
on the corresponding wheel and then
specialist to identify and correct the problem.
applying the brake again .
The electrovalves are controlled by an 23 Components of the anti-lock
electronic unit that receives signals from four braking system (AB5)
wheel speed sensors that control the rotation - removal and installation
speed of each wheel. By comparing these
signals, the unit determines the speed of the Hydraulic Regulator Caution:
vehicle. Based on this speed, the unit detects Before disconnecting the hydraulic
abnormal deceleration of the wheel relative connections of the governor, disconnect the
to the vehicle speed and can predict when battery (see Chapter 5A) and do not
the wheel will lock. During normal braking connect it until the hydraulic system has
mode , the system functions as a system not been bled. Make sure that the regulator is
equipped with AB8 always in a vertical position (in the same
position in which it is installed on the
When the AB8 electronic unit “anticipates vehicle). Do not tilt or turn it over. A
” a wheel locking, it issues a signal to close malfunction associated with air getting into
the corresponding exhaust solenoid valves in the regulator requires bleeding of the
the hydraulic device, which cuts off the regulator, which is done using special
pressure from the master cylinder flowing to proprietary equipment (see subsection 2).
the corresponding brake(s) on the wheel(s).
Note: Before starting work, refer to the
which may get blocked.
warning at the beginning of subsection 2
When wheel speed decreases in
regarding the dangers of brake fluid.
abnormal mode, the unit opens the inlet
solenoid valves on the appropriate brake(s) Removal
and turns on the electric return pump, which 1. Disconnect the battery (see Chapter 5A).
э • 2 Тормозная система
23.19a Disconnect the front wheel speed sensor and connector sleeve are clean and
sensor wire connector (marked with an apply a small amount of lubricant to the
arrow) on top of the wheel arch... sleeve sleeve hole before installation.
23. Make sure the tip of the sensor is clean
Front wheel speed sensor and insert it into the connector sleeve
Removal 24. Clean the threads of the bolt holding -
16. Make sure the ignition is turned off the sensor and apply several coats of thread
17. Apply the handbrake, loosen the locking compound (manufacturers
corresponding front wheel bolts, then jack up recommend Bosser Preparation) Install the
the front of the car and install the axle sensor fuse and the mounting bolt. Tighten
supports (see “Lifting the car with a jack and the bolt to the specified torque.
23.6 Loosen and unscrew the three regulator installing the supports”) Take off that wheel 25. Make sure the sensor wire is positioned
mounting bolts, connecting nuts and 18. Unfasten the plastic ones using the correctly in the support brackets. Connect
disconnect the tubes from the regulator. Be rivets. Unscrew the screws and remove the the sensor connector.
prepared for fluid spills and plug the pipes - corresponding front wheel arch protection. 26. Install the wheel arch guard and wheel,
and holes in the regulator, avoiding the 19. Disconnect the wire connector located then lower the vehicle to the ground and
penetration of dirt and further loss of fluid, on top of the wheel arch. Pull the wire tighten the wheel bolts to the specified
6. Loosen and unscrew the three regulator harness through the slots in the inner fender torque.
mounting bolts and remove the regulator and remove it from the support bracket on the
from the engine compartment {see inner fender and suspension strut (see Rear wheel speed sensor
illustration) Replace the regulator mounts if illustrations)
they show signs of wear or damage. 20. Unscrew the bolt securing the sensor Removal
Installation and remove the sensor fuse (see illustration). 27. Make sure the ignition is turned off.
7. Pre-install the regulator in its location, 21. Carefully try to remove the sensor from
screw in the mounting bolts and tighten them the coupling connector using pliers - this will
to the specified tightening torque. not be easy (see illustration) If you are
8. Connect the hydraulic pipes to the unsuccessful in trying to remove the
appropriate connectors on the regulator and connector with pliers, try to loosen the
tighten the connecting nuts to the specified connection with two small screws, prying it by
torque. the existing protrusion. The sensor housing
9. Remove the old retainer that held the is made of plastic. Any attempt to test the
housing on the main wiring harness connection or application
connector from the wiring connector housing
and install a new one.
10. Connect the wire connector to the 23.21 Carefully try to remove the sensor from
regulator, then install the housing on its the coupling connector
location and secure it to the connector with a
clamp
11. Bleed the entire hydraulic system as
described in subsection 2. After bleeding the
system, install the arch protection and wheel,
then connect the battery.
Electronic control device

23.20 Unscrew the bolt securing the sensor
Removal and remove the sensor fuse
12. Remove the hydraulic regulator as
described above.
13. Remove the two screws located on the
sides of the return pump . and remove the
electronic control unit from the regulator.
Installation
14. Pre-install the control unit into the
regulator and secure it with two screws,
tightening them securely.
15. Install the regulator as described above
23.19b and remove the wire from the support

bracket on the inner fender and suspension
strut . Excessive force will likely result in
housing failure. As a last resort, remove the
coupling connector as described in Chapter
10 and thread the sensor through the back of
the coupling connector
Installation
22. Make sure the adjacent surfaces of the
Wheel rotation sensor

Removal
described in Chapter 1 1
wire connector (see illustration)
Installation
38. Unscrew the two nuts and remove the
sensor.
39. Installation is carried out on a Friday
23.29 Rear wheel speed sensor (marked 23.31a Unscrew the bolt (marked with an basis. reverse removal sequence. Make
with an arrow) for left-hand drive arrow) securing the sensor... sure the arrow on top of the sensor is facing
the front of the car.
24 Vacuum pump ( diesel engine

models) - removal and installation
Removal
1. The pump is located on the left of the
cylinder head. To gain access to the vacuum
pump, remove the air cleaner inlet ducts as
2. Squeeze the keys on the connector and
23.31 b ..then carefully disconnect it using 23.37 Loosen the clamp (marked with an disconnect the vacuum tube from the pump.
small screwdrivers arrow) and disconnect the wheel turn sensor 3. Loosen and unscrew the bolts/nut
wire connector (where provided by the design ) securing the
28. Block the front wheels, loosen the pump on the left of the cylinder head, then
corresponding bolts behind the bottom Installation remove the pump (see illustration) Discard
wheels, then lift the rear of the car and install 32. Make sure the adjacent surfaces of the the O-rings - use new ones when installing
stands (see “Raising the vehicle and sensor and connector sleeve are clean and
installing stands”) Remove the - apply a small amount of lubricant to the Installation
corresponding wheel sleeve sleeve hole before installation. 4. Install the new O-ring(s) into the pump
29. Disconnect the wire connector located 33. Make sure the tip of the sensor is clean groove(s), then align the pump shaft tooth
adjacent to the fastener ; rear axle bracket and insert it into the connector sleeve with the groove in the camshaft and install
(see illustration) To ensure access , unscrew 34. Clean the threads of the bolt securing the pump onto the cylinder head, making
the nuts, unfasten the plastic rivets and the sensor and apply several coats of thread sure . that the O-ring(s) remain in the correct
remove the corresponding plastic panel from locking compound (manufacturers position (see illustrations)
the side of the fuel tank recommend bocce terrestrial). Install the 5. Install the bolts/nut (where provided in
30. Release the wiring harness from all sensor mounting bolt and tighten it to the the design) securing the pump and tighten
kinds of clamps and clamps, noting its specified torque. them securely.
correct original position . 35. Make sure that the sensor wire is 6. Connect the vacuum tube to the pump,
31. Unscrew the bolt securing the sensor, positioned correctly and secure it with the making sure the clamp is properly clamped,
then carefully disconnect the connection by appropriate clamps and clamps. Connect the and install the air inlet ducts.
prying the protrusion with two small sensor connector, then lower the vehicle to
screwdrivers (see illustration ) the ground and tighten the wheel bolts to the
specified torque.
24.4Ь Совместите зуб вала насоса с

24.3 Болты (отмечены стрелками), 24.4а Установите новый/е) кольцевой пазом в распредвале (отмечены
крепящие вакуумный насос (ые) уплотнитель/ и) в паз/ы) насоса стрелками)
25 Vacuum pump (diesel pump and connect a vacuum gauge to this then. The pump is probably faulty. But before
engine models) - check connection using a suitable piece of hose. making a decision regarding the pump,
3. Start the engine and let it idle, then consult a specialist
measure the vacuum created by the pump. 4. Repairing the pump is not possible since
1. The operation of the brake
One minute after the start of the spare parts are not supplied. In the event of
booster vacuum pump can be checked using a malfunction, the entire assembly will need
measurement, the gauge reading should be
a vacuum gauge, to be replaced.
approximately 500 mmHg. If the vacuum
2. Disconnect the vacuum tube from the created by the pump is less than specified,
1О •
Chapter 10
Suspension and steering
Subsection number
Content Rear suspension spring - removal and installation 14
Subsection number Rear axle - removal, repair and installation 15
General information 1 Steering wheel - removal and installation 16
Front wheel hub steering knuckle - removal and installation ....... Steering column - removal, inspection and installation 17
... 2 Ignition switch/steering column lock - removal and installation .
Front wheel bearings - replacement .......................................... 3 ............................................................................ . 18
Front suspension strut - removal and installation 4 Front Steering mechanism - removal, repair and installation 19
suspension strut - disassembly. . .5 Electronic control unit
Front suspension lower arm - removal, repair and installation. 6 power steering - removal and installation 20
Front suspension lower ball joint - removal and installation. .... .... Protective rubber covers
7 steering gear - replacement ......................... ........................... 21
Front suspension anti-roll bar - removal and installation .............. Steering rod ends - removal and installation 22
8 Wheel alignment angles -
Front stabilizer bar link, removal and installation. 9 basic information, checking and adjustment 23
Front suspension subframe removal and installation 10 Rear hub Wheel care and
removal and installation 11 tires , see “Weekly checks”
Rear wheel bearings - replacement. 12 Checking the helmsman
Rear suspension shock absorber - removal, inspection and controls and suspension , see Chapter 1A or
installation. 13 1B
Technical data for inspection and регулировок

Wheel alignment angles
Front wheels Toe-in ...................................... .. __
Camber angle ............................................... .................. .... 0± 1.0мм
Longitudinal angle of inclination of the king pin (depending on 0’ ± 30'
body type and tire size) .......................................................
Transverse angle of inclination of the kingpin. Rear Wheel Toe 3'95’ ± 30' (номинал)
........................................... 1Г 40' ±30'
Camber angle ..................................................................
5.5 ± 1.0 (положительное схождение)
Wheels Teel ............................................... .... Г 30' ± 30-
_________
Tire pressure . ,. Диски штампованные стальные или литые из
алюминиевого сплава (в зависимости от модели) см.
Tightening torques for threaded connections «Еженедельные проверки»
Front suspension
Anti-roll bar Mounting nuts* . ....... ....
Н/м
Bolts for fastening clamps.. .............................. Brake caliper
mounting bracket bolts* Drive shaft nuts* ............. .....
Steering knuckle to rack ...................... .... ........... ....................... 45
Nuts for the bolt securing the lower arm to the subframe. Lower ball 180
joint. Ball joint to lower arm*............................................. ......... 105
Clamp bolt nut* ........................................................ .... ........... 245
Subframe mounting bolts ..................... ........................... ............ 54
Subframe stabilizer ... ............................ .................. .............. .... . 40
Suspension strut
Upper support plate nut ........ ................................................... 40
40
Upper spring seat nut , ., .. ..... ............... ..
90
Rear suspension Caliper mounting bracket bolts* . .... 65
Hub nut* .. .................. .......................
Nuts securing the rear axle bracket to the body 65
65
50
200
100
Rear axle to mounting bracket. . 76
по • г Подвеска и рулевое управление
Shock absorber-
Lower support nut* .............................................................. .... 106
Upper support bolt. . ... ............................................................. 42
Steering
Steering column and steering rack pinch bolt ........................... 22
column ............... mounting bolts 22
Steering rack nuts* ............................................................................. 80
Steering rack support struts ............................................................... 80
Steering wheel bolt ........ ... ................................................................ 33
Tie Rod
(nuts for fastening the tip to the steering knuckle of the hub* 35
Tie rod end .......................................................................locknut 40
Attaching the inner hinge to the rail .............................................. 80
Wheels Wheel bolts . ...... ....................................... 90
* When assembling, use new nuts/bolts.
1 General information steering knuckle arms. To make Note 2: To disassemble and reassemble the
adjustments, there are threads on the tie rod unit, you will need a press; if you don't have
ends one, you can use a large stationary vice and
The power steering is controlled by an a bushing (such as
electric motor integrated into the steering
Independent front suspension of the
rack. The operation of the electric motor is
MacPherson type is a strut consisting of a
controlled by an electronic unit located in the
coil spring and a telescopic shock absorber.
battery casing
The strut at the bottom is held by wishbones,
the inner ends of which are connected to the 2 Front wheel hub steering
front of the subframe through rubber knuckle - removal and installation
bushings, and the outer ends are equipped
with ball joints. On the STEERING KNUCKLE , in Note: After unscrewing, always replace the
which the bearing supports of the wheel hub self-locking nuts of the suspension/steering
and the brake caliper are installed, it is components.
connected to the MacPherson strut with
bolts, and to the suspension arms using ball Removal 2.4 Insert the protrusion of the strut (marked
joints. Structurally, the right and left struts are 1. Remove the front suspension strut . as with an arrow) into the gap of the steering
the same. On all models, a front anti-roll bar described in subsection 4. knuckle of the hub
is installed, it is mounted on the subframe 2. Unscrew the nut and remove the hub and
and directly attached to MacPherson struts. strut steering knuckle pinch bolt, noting that
Independent rear suspension. The hub the bolt is inserted from the rear of the car
supports are connected to the subframe by (see illustration)
upper and lower links and a wishbone. The 3. Wedge the gap in the steering knuckle
supports are attached to the body using with a small chisel, then remove the hub
longitudinal arms. The stabilizer is steering knuckle from the base of the strut. If
necessary, tap the steering knuckle with a
soft hammer to dislodge it from the base of
the strut.
Installation
4. Install the suspension strut onto the hub
steering knuckle and insert the protrusion of
the strut into the gap of the hub steering
knuckle (see illustration) Make sure the strut
is fully pushed into the hub knuckle until it
stops
5. Install the pinch bolt, screw on the new
2.2 Unscrew the nut (A) and remove the nut and tighten it to the specified torque.
pinch bolt of the hub steering knuckle and the 6. Install the suspension strut on the car .
strut (B) which is attached to the under frame as described in subsection 4.
and connected to the hub supports using
connecting earrings. 3 Front bearings. hubs - replacement
At the bottom of the steering column is a
universal joint, which is connected to an
intermediate shaft that has a second Note 1: Vehicles are equipped with sealed,
universal joint at the lower end. The lower pre-lubricated and adjusted double row roller
universal joint is connected to the steering bearings that require no maintenance
gear using a pinch bolt. throughout the life of the vehicle. After
The steering mechanism is mounted on removing the bearing from the hub knuckle,
the front subframe and is connected by two you should always install a new bearing. The
tie rods with ball joints at their ends to the bearing retaining ring must also be replaced.
Подвеска и рулевое управление ю • з
groove of the steering knuckle.

Note: Align the opening of the stop ring with
the opening for the wheel speed sensor of
the AVZ system.
9. Support the outer end of the hub flange
securely and push the inner race of the
bearing onto the end of the hub flange. Using
a cylindrical bushing that rests only on the
inner race of the hub bearing, press the
bearing onto the hub shaft until it rests
against the flange. Make sure the hub rotates bar link to the strut and turn the link to the
3.2 Press the flange out of the bearing of the freely and wipe it off. excess oil or grease. side; if necessary, while unscrewing the nut,
large head of the socket wrench). The inner 10. Install the steering knuckle on the car hold the hinge pin with a socket wrench to
race of the bearing is not pressed onto the (see subsection 2) secure it from rotation. Discard the nut as you
wheel hub shaft; If, when pressing out the will need a new one when installing.
bearing, the inner race remains on the shaft, 4 Front suspension strut - 7. Refer to the procedures described in
a special bearing puller will be required to removal and installation Chapter 9 and remove the brake caliper from
remove it . its mounting bracket, noting that it is not
1. Remove the hub knuckle. Note: When installing, replace all damaged necessary to disconnect the brake hose. If
> as described in subsection 2 self-locking nuts. you are removing the wheel bearings,
2. Clamp the hub cap in a vice, or rest it on remove the caliper and its mounting bracket,
stands. Using a cylindrical bushing that rests
Removal then remove the brake rotor. Tie the caliper
only on the inner end of the hub flange, press 1. Apply the parking brake, then lift the front with rope or wire in a convenient place under
the flange out of the bearing \cm. illustration) of the vehicle and place it on supports (see the wheel arch, avoiding stress on the brake
If the outer race of the bearing inner race "Lifting and placing the vehicle on supports") hose
remains on the hub , remove it using a Remove the corresponding wheel.
bearing puller (see note above). 2. Using a hammer and chisel, remove the
3. Remove the bearing retaining ring from kerning on the drive shaft lock nut. When
the inside of the steering knuckle (see installing, use a new nut
illustration) 3. Screw at least two wheel bolts
4. Where necessary, install the inner race into the front hub and tighten them
of the bearing back into its place on top of the securely. Have an assistant depress
cage and securely support the inner end of the brake pedal to prevent the front
the steering knuckle. Using a cylindrical hub from rotating, then
boom that rests only on the inner race, press
the bearing assembly out of the steering
8. 7 Be careful not to damage the bearing
knuckle 5. Carefully clean the hub and -
insulation (marked with an arrow) - it contains
steering knuckle fist from grease and dirt
the wheel speed sensor emitter
Removed - Remove burrs and metal deposits
that may interfere with installation Check for
cracks or other damage or wear on the
surfaces If found, replace faulty parts.
Replace the retaining ring regardless of its
condition.
6. To facilitate installation of the bearing -
during assembly, apply a thin layer of oil to 3.3 Remove the bearing retaining ring from
the outer race of the bearing and to the hub the inside of the steering knuckle
shaft (manufacturers recommend Mo1uko!e
1. 4 Remove the brake hose from the -
32 1Ya lubricant ).
support bracket on the suspension strut
7. Support the steering knuckle securely
and insert the bearing into it. Using a using the socket on the extension arm,
cylindrical bushing that rests only on the loosen and remove the drive shaft lock nut.
outer race, press the bearing into the steering Or make a device from two pieces of steel
knuckle until it stops, being careful. so that it strip (one longer, the other shorter) and a nut
fits in without distortion. On models equipped and bolt, the nut and bolt form the pivot point
with the AB5 system, the bearing has a of the forked tool. Screw the device with two
magnetic emitter on the inner race. When wheel bolts to the hub and hold the device,
installing the bearing, make sure that the preventing the hub from rotating while
magnetic emitter is aligned with the wheel unscrewing the drive shaft nut ( cm (lava 8
speed sensor of the AVZ system (see - subsection 2).
illustration) Be careful not to damage the 4. Remove the brake hose from the support
emitter and do not place it near a magnet. bracket on the suspension strut (see
Make sure that the working surface of the illustration)
emitter is clean. 5. On models with AVZ, remove the wheel
8. When the bearing is seated correctly, speed sensor from the hub knuckle, as
secure it with a new snap ring, making sure described in (chapter 9
that it is correct. that it fits correctly into the 6. Unscrew the nut securing the anti- roll
ю • а Подвеска и рулевое управление
1. 9 Loosen and unscrew the nut, then - 1. 10 Bend the lower arm under the
1. 8 Loosen and unscrew the nut securing remove the lower ball joint clamp bolt from hangers down using a pry bar attached to it
the tie rod end to the hub steering knuckle the hub knuckle , holding it at the end with a with a chain and resting the other end against
socket wrench (see illustration) Remove the the subframe with the specified tightening
8. Loosen and unscrew the tie rod that top support plate and remove the strut from force. Install the protective cap
secures the tip of the steering rod to the under the wheel arch. 19. Make sure the splines of the hub and
steering knuckle of the hub and release the CV joint of the drive shaft are clean, then
Caution: Once the top mounting nut is
cone pin of the hinge using a special puller slide the hub onto the splines of the drive
removed, the stand will become loose.
for hinges (see illustration) shaft
9. Loosen and unscrew the nut, then 14. To disconnect the strut from the hub -
20. Install the skid plate onto the lower
remove the lower control arm ball joint clamp steering knuckle, unscrew the nut and
control arm ball joint, then use the same
bolt from the hub knuckle (see illustration ). remove the steering knuckle/strut clamp bolt,
removal method to install the ball joint pin into
Discard the nut - use a new one when noting that the bolt is inserted from the rear
the hub knuckle, making sure the tab on the
installing. to the front of the vehicle (see illustration 2.2).
skid plate is positioned correctly in the
10. Insert a small chisel into the opening on 15. Insert a small chisel into the opening on
knuckle opening. Insert the pivot clamp bolt
the hub knuckle to increase the clearance the steering knuckle and open the fist, then
(at the front of the hub knuckle), then install
and allow the ball joint pin to be freed. Bend disconnect the steering knuckle from the
the new lock nut and tighten it to the specified
the lower control arm down to allow the ball base of the strut. If necessary, remove the
torque.
joint pin to be separated from the hub steering knuckle from the strut by gently
21. Secure the tie rod end to the hub
knuckle. To do this, use a pry bar and a tapping it with a soft hammer
knuckle, then install a new lock nut and
wooden beam, placing it under the car's
subframe. Attach the pry bar to the lever with
Installation tighten it to the specified torque of 22.
Referring to Chapter 9, install the brake rotor
a chain, strong belt or rope. Pull the pry bar 16. Install the stand on the steering knuckle
on the hub (if removed), then install the
down to disconnect the ball joint from the hub of the hub, aligning the protrusion on the
stand with the opening of the steering caliper mounting bracket and/or brake
knuckle (see illustration)
caliper. depending on design
11. After releasing the ball joint, remove the knuckle (see illustration 2.4). Make sure that
the strut is fully inserted into the steering - 23. Install the wheel speed sensor of the
protective plate mounted on the hinge pin.
AB8 system as described in Chapter 9,
12. Move the strut assembly away from the knuckle until it stops. where the design provides for it.
car, removing it from the drive shaft CV joint 17. Insert the clamp bolt, screw on the new 24. Install the brake hose onto the
splines (see illustration) nut and tighten it to the specified torque.
suspension strut support bracket.
13. Working in the engine compartment, 18. Place the strut assembly in its location,
25. Connect the stabilizer bar link to the
remove the protective cap, then loosen and aligning the alignment mark on the top strut
strut using a new lock nut and tighten the nut
unscrew the upper strut mounting nut, mount with the corresponding hole in the
locking the strut rod. fender. Install the upper support plate and
26. Coat the inner surface and threads of
new lock nut by tightening
the new drive shaft lock nut with clean engine
oil and install it to the end of the drive shaft.
Prevent the hub from rotating using the
removal method and tighten the drive shaft
lock nut to the specified torque. Make sure
the hub rotates freely.
27. Punch the nut on the drive shaft using
a hammer and a core punch.
28. Install the wheel, then lower the vehicle
and tighten the wheel bolts to the specified
14. 2 Move the strut assembly away from torque.
19. 3 Loosen and remove the top rack
the vehicle, removing it from the drive shaft
mounting nut
CV joint splines.
Подвеска и рулевое управление по • 5
Warning: Before attempting to
A disassemble the strut, you must be

equipped with a suitable spring
compressor. Any attempt to dismantle the
rack without such a device will most likely
result in some kind of breakdown or injury. 1. 1 Install the spring compressor and 5.2 Unscrew the nut of the upper seat of the
Note: During assembly you will need a new compress it to release the pressure on the spring. Hold the shock absorber rod using a
nut for securing the upper support. tieator post support cups using a suitable suitable socket wrench ; damage to the strut
1. After removing the stand (see subsection socket wrench (see illustration) 3. Remove or corrosion of the shock absorber rod is
4), clean the surface of the assembly. Then the nut, then remove the support bearing and detected; the strut should be replaced
secure the stand in a vice with soft pads on spring cup (see illustrations) When installing, 6. Inspect the remaining components of the
the jaws. Install a device for compressing the you will need a new nut, rack to ensure they are in good working
spring and compress it. to relieve pressure - 4. Remove the strut spring, as well as the order. Replace any defective parts.
on the .< !■ >cups of the stand (see - cover, protective cover and rubber buffer of 7. Place the rubber travel limiter buffer onto
illustration} the travel limiter from the shock absorber rod the strut piston. Place the protective boot and
2. Unscrew the nut of the upper spring seat. (see illustrations) cover. Make sure that the bottom end of the
Hold the damper rod 5. Check to see if there is any fluid leaking protective boot is correctly positioned on the
from the shock absorber on the strut. Inspect shock absorber body.
the shock absorber rod and make sure there 8. Install the spring, making sure. that its
are no signs of pitting on it. Inspect the shock end is correctly located on the cup stop (see
absorber body and make sure it is in good illustration) Put the top cup on like this. to
condition. Holding the strut vertically, check ensure it is properly aligned with the spring,
the movement of the strut shock absorber rod then install the bearing . Turn the bearing
in both directions throughout the entire alignment mark toward the outside of the
range, as well as in the range from 50 to 100 vehicle with the strut installed
mm. Make sure that in both cases the 9. Screw a new nut on the shock absorber
resistance to movement is even and strong. rod, tighten the nut of the upper spring cup
If resistance is weak or uneven, if there are with the specified tightening torque.
5.3a Unscrew the nut... fluid leaks or
5.3Ь ..опорный подшипник... 5. Зс .. .чашку пружины... 5.4а ...а также крышку...
5.8 Убедитесь в том, что конец пру-

5.46 ..защитный чехол... 5.4с ... и резиновый буфер ограни- жины правильно расположен на огра-
чителя хода ничителе чашки (отмечен стрелкой)
по • г Подвеска и рулевое управление
6. Front suspension lower arm - Installation 6. Check that the lower control arm mount
removal, repair and installation moves freely without signs of binding, and
10. Install the lower arm assembly into
check that the ball joint rubber boot is in good
place in the subframe, insert the mounting -
Note: When installing, you will need new condition with no tears or cracks. Replace
bolts. Install the lock nuts and tighten them to
self-locking nuts. worn or damaged components as necessary.
the specified torque.
11. Install the skid plate on the lower ball Installation
Removal joint, then insert the support pin into the hub 7. Install the ball joint at the end of the
1. Place chocks under the rear wheels . steering knuckle. Make sure that the control arm and insert the three mounting
then firmly apply the parking brake, jack up protrusion of the skid plate is correctly bolts. Install new nuts onto the bolts and
the front of the car and place supports. located in the steering knuckle opening. tighten them to the specified torque .
Remove the corresponding front wheel 12. Insert the ball joint clamp bolt (front of 8. Install the skid plate to the lower control
2. Special and unscrew the nut, then - the steering knuckle), then install the new arm ball joint under the hangers, then, using
remove the lower control arm ball joint clamp lock nut and tighten it to the specified torque. the same removal method, install the ball
bolt from the hub steering knuckle (see 13. Install the wheel, lower the car to the joint pin into the hub steering knuckle,
illustration 4.9} Discard the nut as a new one ground and tighten the wheel bolts to the making sure the tab on the skid plate is
must be used for installation . required torque. properly seated in the steering knuckle
3. Insert a small chisel into the hole in the opening. Insert the ball joint clamp bolt (front
hub knuckle to increase the clearance and 7 Lower ball joint of the front
hub knuckle), then install the new lock nut
allow the ball joint pin to be freed . Bend the suspension - and tighten it to the specified torque
lower control arm down to allow the ball joint removal and installation 9. Install the wheel, lower the car and
pin to be removed from the hub knuckle. To tighten the wheel bolts to the specified
do this, use a pry bar and a wooden beam, Note: After unscrewing, always replace all torque.
placing it under the car's subframe. Attach - self-locking nuts. Note: When installing, you will need a new
the pry bar to the lever with a chain, strong stabilizer bar link nut.
belt or rope. Pull the mount down to Removal
disconnect the ball joint from the steering 1. Block the rear wheels, then lift the front of
knuckle of the YM hub . illustration 4 10} the car and install axle supports (see “Lifting
4. With the ball joint free, remove the the car with a jack and installing supports”)
protective plate mounted on the hinge pin. Remove the corresponding front wheel
5. Remove the nuts on the front and rear - 2. Loosen and unscrew the nut, then
lower control arm mounting bolts . Hold the remove the lower ball joint clamp bolt from
mounting bolt with a socket wrench to the hub knuckle (see illustration 4.9). Discard
prevent it from rotating while removing the the nut - use a new one when installing.
nut. Remove the mounting bolts from the 3. Insert a small chisel into the hole in the
subframe . hub steering knuckle and wedge the hole to
6. Remove the lower arm assembly from allow the ball joint pin to be removed from
under the vehicle. the steering knuckle Bend the lower control
arm down to allow the pin to be removed
Installation
Note When replacing the lower control arm
ball joint, install new lock nuts.
7. Thoroughly clean the lower arm and the
area around the arm mounting points from
dirt and anti-corrosion coating of the
underbody of the vehicle. Carefully check the
arms for cracks, deformation or any other
signs of wear or damage. Pay special
attention to the ball joint bushings. If
necessary , replace parts.
8. To replace the bushings you will need a 7.5 Loosen and remove the three nuts
hydraulic press, a bearing puller and
securing the lower ball joint
bushings of a suitable diameter. It is better to
entrust the replacement of bushings to ball joint from the hub knuckle. To do this,
specialists from a company service station use a pry bar and a wooden block. Place it
who have special equipment under the car's subframe. Attach the pry bar
9. Check that the lower control arm support to the lever with a chain, strong belt or rope.
moves freely without signs of binding; check Pull the pry bar down to disconnect the ball
also. Make sure the protective rubber boot on joint from the hub knuckle (see illustration 4.
the ball joint is in good condition. without 10 )
tears or cracks. If it is necessary to replace 4. After releasing the ball joint, remove the
the cover, loosen and unscrew the fastening protective plate mounted on the hinge pin.
bolts, then remove the ball joint from the 5. Loosen and unscrew the three nuts, then
lever. Install the new support and insert new remove the bolts securing the ball joint and
bolts. Install new nuts on the bolts and tighten remove the support from the lower arm (see
them to the specified torque. illustration) Discard the nuts - use new ones
when installing
Подвеска и рулевое управление 1О • 7
8 Anti-roll bar, front suspension - bar - 2. Remove the battery as described in

removal and installation removal and installation Chapter 5A.
3. Remove the plastic separating panel
Removal Removal from inside the battery casing, located in front
1. Block the rear wheels, apply the parking 1. Block the rear wheels, apply the of the electronic power steering control unit
brake, loosen the wheel bolts, then jack up handbrake, loosen the corresponding wheel (see illustration)
the front of the car and install supports bolts, then lift the front of the car and install 4. Disconnect the two smaller connectors
Remove the front wheels the axle supports (see “Raising the vehicle of wires 01 of the electronic power steering
2. Unscrew the nuts securing the left and and installing the supports”) Remove the control unit (see illustration) Release the -
right shackles to the stabilizer and turn the corresponding wheel. water harness from the clamps like this. to
shackles away from the stabilizer. If 2. Loosen and unscrew the nuts securing - make it possible to remove the wiring
necessary, hold the hinge pins with a socket the shackle to the stabilizer bar and harness together with the subframe and
wrench while loosening the fastening nuts ( suspension strut, then remove the shackle steering gear,
see illustration } Discard the nuts as you will from the vehicle; if necessary, hold the pins 5. Working in the driver's footwell in the
need new ones during installation. of the ball joints with a socket wrench, passenger compartment, apply alignment
3. In accordance with subsection 10, lower preventing them from turning when marks to the steering column hinge and the
the front subframe to provide access to the unscrewing the nuts (see illustration 8.2) steering rack gear. Open the clamp , then
stabilizer bar support clamps. Throw away the nuts as you will need new unscrew and remove the pinch bolt/nut from
4. Loosen the two mounting bolts of the ones during installation. the hinge at the base of the column (see
stabilizer support clamps and remove both 3. Check the earring for signs of wear or illustration ) Pull the steering column shaft up
clamps from the top of the subframe ( see to disconnect the joint from
damage. if necessary, replace
illustration ]
5. Remove the ■ e <: ■ abipator from under Installation
the car and remove the support bushings
from it.
order of removal. Install new nuts and tighten
6. Carefully inspect the stabilizer parts and
them to the specified torque. Note: After
make sure there is no wear or damage,
unscrewing, always replace all self-locking
paying special attention to the support
bushings Replace faulty parts nuts.
Installation
7. Place the support bushings onto the
stabilizer. Rotate the bushings so that their
outer flat edges are correctly aligned with the
edges of the stabilizer, and the raised part of
the bushings is in the highest position.
8. Lift the stabilizer and move it to its
original location in the subframe. Install the
support clamps and secure with the mounting
bolts, tightening them to the specified torque.
9. Install the front subframe as described in
10.3 Remove the plastic partition panel
subsection 10
10. Connect the earrings to the stabilizer ,
10 Front suspension subframe -
install new fastening nuts and tighten them to removal and installation of cbc
the specified tightening torque
11. Install the wheels, lower the car to the
ground and tighten the wheel bolts to the Removal
required torque. 1. Block the rear wheels, apply the
handbrake, loosen the front wheel bolts, then
Note: After unscrewing, always replace all lift the front of the car and install axle
self-locking nuts. supports (see “Raising the car and installing
supports”) Remove both front wheels
9 Front stabilizer bar - ?.. anti-roll
8.4 Ослабьте два монтажных болта 10.4 Отсоедините два меньших

8.2 Ослабьте и выкрутите гайки (отмеченные стрелками) опорных разъема проводов (отмечены стрел-
крепления серег к стабилизатору зажимов стабилизатора - показано со ками) от электронного блока управ-
поперечной устойчивости снятым подрамником ления гидроусилителя руля
ю • а Подвеска и рулевое управление
rack gear absolutely necessary. To remove the hub

6. Loosen and unscrew the nuts securing from the axle you will need a puller. Removal
the left and right shackles to the stabilizer bar will likely damage the hub bearing, which will
. then turn the earrings away from the require replacing the entire hub assembly. A
stabilizer arm; if necessary, hold the pins of new nut and hub cap are required during
the ball joints with a socket wrench, installation.
preventing them from turning when
unscrewing the nuts (see illustration 8.2) Removal
Discard the nuts as you will need new ones 1. Remove the rear brake disc as described
during installation. in Chapter 9
7. Loosen and unscrew the nut, then 2. Pry and remove the cap from the center
remove the left lower control arm ball joint converter. Unscrew the nuts securing the of the hub and discard it; When
clamp bolt from the hub knuckle (see exhaust system supports to the underbody installing, use a new cover (see
illustration 4.9) Throw away the nut as you - and lower the system, freeing it from the illustration)
will need a new one when installing. subframe. 3. Remove the punch on the hub
8. PLACE a small chisel in the opening on 12. Remove the rear engine/transmission lock nut and hub axle using a
the hub knuckle to increase the clearance mount as described in Chapter 2A or 2B. hammer and a punch (see
and make it possible to release the ball joint depending on the design. illustration).
pin. Bend the lower suspension arm down to 13. Place a jack under the subframe and lift 4. Using the socket on the extension rod,
make it possible to disconnect the ball joint the subframe. unscrew the rear hub nut and discard it; a
pin from the hub steering knuckle. To do this, 14. Unscrew the bolts on the sides under new hub nut should be used when installing.
use a pry bar and a wooden block, placing it the frame, securing its rear part to the bottom Remove the washer from under the nut.
under the car's subframe. Attach the pry bar of the body (see illustration ). 5. Using a puller, pull the hub from the axle
to the lever with a chain, strong belt or rope. 15. Gaining access through the opening in along with the outer race of the bearing (see
Pull the pry bar down to disconnect the ball the lower suspension arm, unscrew the bolts illustration). After removing the hub, pull the
joint from the hub knuckle (see illustration 4- securing the sides of the front part of the inner race of the bearing from the hub axle
10) subframe to the underbody (see illustration) with a puller, then remove the spacer.
16. With the help of an assistant, slowly -
lower the jack and remove the subframe from
under the car. Be careful not to pinch the
power steering wiring. removing the
subframe
Installation
17. Installation is carried out in sequence.
reverse removal sequence, including the
following points:
a) Use new self-locking nuts during
assembly.
9. .5 Loosen the clamp, then unscrew the
b) Refer to the component installation
nut (marked with an arrow) of the coupling
procedures described in this and other
bolt
designated chapters.
10. 2 Pry and remove the cover from the c) Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified
center of the hub torque (if specified).
9. After releasing the ball joint, remove the 11 Rear hub
protective plate mounted on the hinge pin,
wheels - removal and installation
10. Carry out the procedures described in
subsections 7-9 on the right side of the car,
11. In accordance with Chapter 4A or 4B
(depending on design), disconnect the Models with rear disc brakes
exhaust system from the downpipe/catalytic Note: Do not remove the hub unless
Установка
6. Смажьте вал оси ступицы смазкой на
основе дисульфида молибдена, затем
установите прокладку.
7. Установите новый узел ступицы/
подшипника и забейте его на ось до
упора с помощью молотка и цилинд-
рической выколотки, опирающейся
только на плоский внутренний край
внутренней наружной обоймы.
8. Установите уплотнитель и новую гайку
10.14 Выкрутите болты по бокам 10.15 Выкрутите болты, крепящие по ступицы и затяните ее с установленным
подрамника, крепящие его заднюю бокам переднюю часть подрамника к усилием затяжки. Произведите кернение
часть к днищу кузова днищу кузова гайки для предо-
Подвеска и рулевое управление ю • 9
11.3 Устраните кернение на стопор- 11.5 С помощью съемника стяните 11.8а Установите новую гайку...
ной гайке ступицу
rotation of its spontaneous unscrewing, then Use this tool to remove the bearing. absorber - removal, inspection and
install a new cover in the center of the hub 6. Clean the hub thoroughly, removing any installation
(see illustration ) traces of dirt and grease, and polish any
9. Install the rear brake disc as described in burrs or raised edges. Check the hub for
Chapter 9. cracks or other signs of damage or wear and.
Removal
1. Place pads under the front
Models with rear drum brakes replace if necessary. The bearing and its
retaining ring are replaced each time after
10. The rear hub is an integral part of the
removal. Please note that the bearings are
brake drum. Refer to Chapter 9 for drum
supplied in a repair kit that includes the
removal and installation details.
bearing, snap ring and seal.
12 Rear hub bearings - replacement 7. Carefully pry and remove the oil seal
from the steering axle, then install a new oil
seal from the bearing repair kit. Pay attention
to the gasket installed behind the oil seal.
Models with rear disc brakes
8. Check the hub shaft for signs of wear or
1. The hub bearing is an integral part of the damage. If any are found, it must be replaced
unit and is not supplied separately. If the along with the lever, since the shaft is not 12.4 On models equipped with the AB8
bearing is worn, replace the entire assembly supplied separately. Replacing the lever system, the oil seal (marked with an arrow)
as described in subsection 11. contains a magnetic emitter for the wheel
requires the use of many special tools and
Models with rear drum brakes speed sensor
should be left to the manufacturer's
Note: To replace bearings, a proprietary tool representatives.
CHgoep 0540 or a corresponding equivalent 9. When assembling, lubricate the outer
is required. race of the bearing with clean engine oil to
2. Remove the rear brake bar as described facilitate bearing installation.
in Chapter 9 10. Support the drum securely and position
3. Using a proprietary tool CHgoep 0540 or the bearing in its location in the hub. Press
an equivalent, remove the retaining ring the bearing by using a cylindrical drift on its
outer race and making sure that it fits into the
hub without distortion. Or drive the bearing
into its location with the homemade tool used
previously, but use a different diameter pipe
or socket resting on the outer race of the
bearing.
11. Make sure the bearing is correctly -
positioned against the hub stop and secure it
with a new snap ring.
12. Press the new oil seal into its location
in the hub, being careful not to damage the
oil seal surface. Check. that the bearing
11.8b ...then install the new cap in the center repair kit contains two oil seals of different
of the hub using the large bearing head from diameters. Make sure that the required oil
the brake drum. seal is used. On models. equipped with the
4. Pry and remove the oil seal from the hub. AB8 system, take care not to damage the
Note that on models equipped with the AB8 magnetic emitter built into the seal. Do not
system, the seal contains a magnetic emitter place the emitter near sources of magnetic
on the lip that emits magnetic pulses for the waves. Make sure the emitter surface is
wheel speed sensor (see illustration). clean.
5. Support the bar hub securely, then press 13. Install the brake drum as described in
or slide the bearing out of its location by (chapter 9
pressing the inner ring with a cylindrical drift. Note: When reassembling, replace all
Or make a simple device yourself. consisting associated self-locking nuts.
of a suitable head or length of pipe, washers,
nut and a suitable long bolt or threaded rod. 13 Rear suspension shock
ЛО • по Подвеска и рулевое управление
14 Rear suspension spring

- removal and installation
Note: When reassembling, replace

all associated self-locking nuts.
Removal
1. Chock the front wheels, loosen the rear
wheel bolts, then jack up the rear of the car
and place it on stands. Remove the
corresponding rear wheel.
1. .2a Pry up and remove the latches ... 1. .2b and remove the rear wheel arch 2. Place a hydraulic jack under the spring
protection, it should be replaced. Check the cup of one of the arms and lift it until the
wheels, loosen the corresponding rear wheel wear and destruction of the shock absorber
suspension spring is slightly compressed.
bolts, then jack up the rear of the car and bushings. If necessary, replace faulty or worn 3. Unscrew the nut of the lower shock
place it on supports. Remove the parts. Self-locking nuts must be replaced absorber mounting bolt and remove the bolt.
corresponding rear wheel regardless of their condition Discard the nut as you will need a new one
2. Disconnect the latches and remove the during installation.
rear wheel arch protection (see illustration) Installation 4. Slowly lower the hydraulic jack until the
3. Place the hydraulic jack under the spring 7. Before installing the shock absorber, control arm travel is sufficient, then place the
cup and raise the suspension arm until until clamp it vertically in a vice and completely jack under the arm spring cup on the other
the suspension spring is compressed pull out and push the rod in several times to side and jack it up until the spring on the
4. Working in the wheel arch, unscrew the bleed the shock absorber. Lubricate the other side is slightly compressed.
bolt of the upper shock absorber mounting lower shock absorber mounting bolt and the 5. Loosen and remove the lower shock
(see illustration) absorber bolt. Discard the nut as you will
working surface of the new nut with multi- need a new one when installing.
5. Unscrew the nut and remove the lower
functional lubricant (manufacturers 6. Lower the jack, releasing the springs
mounting bolt, then remove the shock
recommend Mo1uko(e Har1c1e P1iz). completely, then remove the springs.
absorber from its location (see illustration).
Discard the nut as you will need a new one 8. Fully recess the shock absorber rod and 7. Inspect the spring and seats. If worn or
for installation. put the shock absorber in place. Install the damaged, replace defective parts.
shock absorber upper mounting bolt and
Examination tighten it to the specified torque. Installation
6. Check for leaks or damage to the shock 9. Align the lower shock absorber mount 8. Install the lower spring seat on the lower
absorber. Check the action of the shock with the hole in the arm and insert the arm, and the upper seat on top of the spring.
absorber. Holding it vertically, check the mounting bolt. Screw on the new nut and Lubricate the hinge bolts securing the lower
movement of the rod at full stroke, and then tighten it slightly. arm and shock absorber, as well as the
at a shorter stroke within 50-100 mm. In both 10. Install the wheel arch liner and rear working surfaces of the new nuts with
cases, an even and strong resistance to wheel, lower the vehicle to the ground and universal lubricant (manufacturers
movement should be felt. If the resistance is tighten the wheel bolts to the required torque. recommend Mo1uko!e AarYue P1iz)
weak or uneven, if there are fluid leaks, or if Rock the vehicle until the shock absorber is 9. Reinstall the spring and slightly raise the
lower arm using a hydraulic jack. Make sure
the shock absorber is damaged or the shock fully seated in position and tighten the lower
the spring is in the correct position in both
absorber rod is corroded, it shock absorber mount to the specified
seats.
torque. 10. Align the shock absorber with the -
linkage and install the mounting bolt. Screw
the new nut onto the bolt, tightening it slightly.
11. Remove the jack from under the lever
and place it under the lever spring cup on the
other side of the car.
12. Raise the jack and guide the lower
shock absorber mount by hand. Insert the
bolt and screw it onto it
13.4 Unscrew the upper bolt (marked with 13.5 Unscrew the nut (marked with an arrow)
an arrow) of the shock absorber mounting and remove the bolt of the lower shock
absorber mounting
ЛО • по Подвеска и рулевое управление
the nut by hand tightening it. Repair 4. Remove the steering wheel from
13. Install the wheel, lower the car to the the steering column shaft splines,
ground and tighten the wheel bolts to the 9. Clean the rear axle thoroughly! and the
passing the airbag wires through the
areas around its mountings from dirt and anti-
required torque. Rock the car, then tighten slots in the steering wheel as you
corrosion coating of the bottom, if necessary.
the nuts of the lower shock absorber remove it.
Inspect these areas and make sure there is
mounting bolts to the required torque.
no damage, cracks or wear, especially in the If the steering wheel does not come off, try
15 Rear axle - area of the hinge bushings 10. Replacing the hitting it from both sides with your palms
removal, repair and installation hinge bushings requires a hydraulic press from bottom to top, or rock the steering wheel
and several gaskets, so this work It is better from side to side and at the same time pull it
to entrust this to a qualified specialist at a up.
Note: When reassembling, replace all service station.
associated self-locking nuts. Installation
Installation
5. Make sure before installing the steering
Removal 11. Lubricate the bolt rods of the bridge
wheel. that the wheels remain in the straight-
1. Remove the suspension springs (see mounting brackets with universal lubricant
ahead position
subsection 14) (manufacturers recommend Mo1uko1e
6. Installation is carried out in sequence .
2. Unscrew the nuts, unfasten the plastic Nar)s1e P1iz).
reverse to withdrawal. Please keep the
rivets and remove the plastic panels on the 12. Install the seats and mounting brackets
following in mind when installing
sides of the fuel tank using the pre- marked marks and insert the
mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to the a) Before installation, make sure the turn
3. Disconnect the wire connector of the - signal switch is in the neutral position,
wheel speed sensor of the AB8 system, specified torque.
13. Install the handbrake cables into their otherwise the switch will be broken when
located adjacent to the rear axle mounting installing the steering wheel.
brackets, where this is provided for by the clamps on the axle and connect their ends to
the brake pads or caliper levers (see Chapter b) When installing, align the marks made
design (see illustration) before removal. Take great care
9).
4. Clamp the flexible brake hose and
14. Connect the wire connectors of the
unscrew the nut connecting it to the brake
pipe (see illustration ) Plug the hose and tube
to prevent dirt from entering. Repeat this
A AB8 system and the rear brake hoses,
tightening the nuts connecting them to
the brake pipes with the specified tightening
«•осты
ЭКСПЕРТА
procedure on the other side
torque. Remove the brake hose clamps.
5. On midships with rear drum brakes,
15. Install plastic panels on the sides of the
remove the rear brake shoes as described in
fuel tank.
Chapter 9, then remove the handbrake
16. Install the rear suspension springs as
cables from the brake shields
described in subsection 14. Finally, bleed the
6. On models with rear disc brakes, working
brakes as described in Chapter 9.
as described in Chapter 9, disconnect the
handbrake cables from the caliper levers 16 Steering wheel -
using pliers. Squeeze the clips and remove removal and installation
the cable covers from the caliper support
brackets.
7. 1 1move along the length of the cables in Warning: Before carrying out work, take -
the opposite direction, free them from the precautions
clamps, as well as from the brackets on the details given in Chapter 12.
rear axle arms.
8. Place alignment marks on the rear axle Removal
brackets and vehicle body for proper 1. Remove the airbag assembly (See
assembly. Remove the three bolts on each Chapter 12)
side . securing the support brackets to the 2. Set the front wheels in a straight-ahead
vehicle body, then lower the rear axle to the direction and lock the steering column
ground. If an axle is being replaced, install 3. Loosen and unscrew the steering wheel
the brake components to the new rear axle mounting bolt, then apply alignment marks
as described in Chapter 9 between the end of the steering shaft and the
steering wheel (see illustration)
15.3 Разъем провода левого датчика 15.4 Выкрутите гайку соединения скорости 16.3 Ослабьте и выкрутите болт
колеса системы АВ8(отме- гибкого тормозного шланга с тор- чен стрелкой) крепления рулевого колеса (отмечен
мозной трубкой стрелкой)
10*12 Подвеска и рулевое управление
smooth removal Ignition switch/steering column

8. Loosen and unscrew the four fastening
bolts from the top of the column (see
lock
illustration). Slide the column assembly up, Removal
disengaging it from the steering rack gear, 1. Disconnect the battery (See Chapter 5A)
and remove the column from the vehicle. 2. Remove the driver's side lower panel as
Inspection h. Remove the screws securing the lower -
9. Before installing the steering column, steering column trim (see illustration)
inspect it to ensure there is no damage or Disconnect the lower column trim from the
deformation. If necessary, replace the clips on the upper trim, then slide the lower
17.8 Steering column mounting bolts - steering column Inspect the shaft and make trim back and disconnect its lower mounting
(marked with arrows) sure there is no play in the shaft bushings tab from the column. Remove the rear edge
Inspect the universal joints and make sure of the upper trim and release the trim from
to avoid damaging the airbag wiring. there is no damage or excessive noise in the the two clamps at the front end.
Tighten the steering wheel mounting bolt joint bearings If the universal joint or shaft 4. Release the ignition switch wiring
to the required torque. bushings need to be replaced, replace the harness from the clips on the reverse side.
c) Finally, install the airbag assembly as steering column assembly 5. Punch the center of the screw . securing
described in Chapter 12. the ignition switch housing, then, using a drill
and a puller, remove the screw. Obviously,
17 Рулевая колонка - during reassembly you will need a new
снятие, проверка и установка screw.
6. Remove the two clamps and carefully
Note 1: Please read the cautions in Chapter pull the key recognition unit and disconnect it
Installation from the ignition switch housing ( see
12 before operating as all models are
10. Align the marks made before removal illustration) Slide the identification to the side
equipped with airbags.
and engage the steering rack gear with the without disconnecting its wiring Be careful
Note 2: When installing, you will need a new universal joint. not to damage the identification unit
pinch bolt nut. 11. Reinstall the steering column, making 7. Trace the electrical wiring from the
sure that it is correct. that the steering column ignition switch and disconnect its connectors
Removal bracket is properly aligned with the panel from the main wiring harness
1. Remove the steering wheel (see section support bracket. Screw in the column
16) mounting bolts and tighten them to the
2. Move the driver's seat back as far as required torque.
possible 12. Insert the universal joint pinch bolt and
h. Working in the driver's footwell, place nut, then tighten them to the required torque.
installation marks on the universal joint and Install the clamp.
the steering rack gear, loosen the clamp, 13. The rest of the installation procedure
then unscrew and remove the steering
column and pinch bolt from the connection at
the base (see illustration 10.5}
4. Remove the switches from the top of the
steering column as described in Chapter 12
5. Remove the lower trim 18.9 Press the latch (marked with an
arrow) and remove the lock from the
steering column
14. 6 Remove the clamps of the key

identification block (the upper clamp is
marked with an arrow) and remove the
block from the ignition switch in the reverse
order of removal. Keep the following in
mind.
18.3 Remove the fastening screws (marked а) Make sure that all electrical wiring is
with arrows) of the lower trim of the steering connected and secured with clamps.
column panel on the driver’s side, as б) Install the steering wheel (see
described in Chapter 11 subsection 16).
6. Trace the direction of the wiring from the
18 Ignition switch/lock
ignition switch and disconnect its connectors.
7. Unscrew the fastening bolt (if any) and
cylinder/steering column lock -
remove the electrical wiring mounting
bracket from the steering column. Mark its
original position, then release the electrical
wiring from all fasteners and move it to the
side of the steering column, ensuring its
8. Insert the ignition key and turn it to its during installation.

original position. 8. Disconnect the exhaust system from the
9. Using a small screwdriver, press the lock downpipe/catalytic converter as described in
and remove the lock from the steering Chapter 4A or 4B. depending on the design
column (see illustration ) of the car. Unscrew the nuts securing the
10. Remove the ignition switch along with exhaust system hangers to the bottom of the
the wires and connectors from the steering car body and lower the system,
column housing through the lock hole disconnecting it from the subframe
9. Remove the rear engine/transmission
Installation mount as described in Chapter 2A or 2B,
11. >vka । h >< is carried out in after* depending on the design .
10. Unscrew the nuts securing the steering 13 Rear suspension shock
validity. reverse removal sequence, including absorber - removal, inspection and
rack to the subframe on its sides. New nuts
the following points: installation
will be needed during installation. Using a
a) Make sure the wiring is properly routed
socket wrench, unscrew the mounting posts
and securely secured in its original Note: When installing a new electronic unit, it
from the steering rack and remove the
position. must be adapted to work together with other
washers installed between the rack and the
b) Install the steering column lock housing electronic control units installed on the
subframe.
with a new screw, tightening it until it vehicle, which requires special diagnostic
11. Place a jack under the subframe and lift
stops. equipment. Therefore, this procedure should
the subframe with it.
Lock cylinder 12. Unscrew the bolts securing the sides of be entrusted to a suitably equipped
the subframe to the bottom of the car (see specialist. Or take the car to a branded
12. At the time of publication of this Manual,
illustration 10.14) service station.
the lock cylinder was an integral part of the
13. Gaining access through the opening in
ignition switch and was not supplied
the lower suspension arm, unscrew the bolts Removal
separately from it. 1. Remove the battery and casing as
securing the front part of the subframe to the
described in Chapter 5A.
19 Рулевой механизм -
2. Drill out the rivets that secure the
снятие, ремонт и установка
block to the battery casing, and remove
the block from the casing (see -
illustration)
Note: When assembling steering bottom of the body on the sides (see -
components, always install new self-locking illustration 10.5) Installation
nuts. 14. Lower the subframe to provide 3. Install the unit in the battery housing and
sufficient clearance to remove the steering secure with new rivets
Removal rack from under the driver's side wheel arch. 4. Install the battery with its housing . as
1. Set the front wheels in a straight-ahead When removing the rack, route the wiring described in Chapter 5A
direction and lock the steering column down from the engine compartment.
2. Apply the handbrake, loosen the front 21 Protective rubber covers for
wheel bolts, then jack up the front of the car Repair the steering mechanism -
and install axle stands (see “Lifting the 15. The only components that can be replacement
vehicle and installing stands”) Remove both replaced in the steering gear are the steering
front wheels rack dust boots and the tie rod ends. 1. Remove the steering rod ball joint
3. Remove the battery as described in described below. as described in subsection 22.
Chapter 5A 2. Mark the location of the boot on the tie
4. Remove the plastic separating panel Installation rod, then loosen the fastening clamps and
located in front of the electronic power 16. Install the steering rack under the frame slide the boot off the casing.
steering control unit from the battery casing and place washers between them.
(see illustration 10.3) 17. Install the steering rack struts and
5. Disconnect the two smaller wire tighten them to the specified torque. Install
connectors from the electronic power new nuts on the racks and tighten them in the
steering control unit (see illustration 10.4) same way with the specified tightening
Release the wiring from the clamps so that it torque.
can be removed from the steering 18. The rest of the installation is carried out
mechanism in the reverse order of removal, including the
6. Working in the driver's footwell in the following items:
passenger compartment, apply alignment
marks to the steering column hinge and 20.2 Drill out the rivets (marked with arrows)
steering rack gear. Loosen the clamp, then that secure the unit to the battery casing
unscrew and remove the coupling bolt/nut a) During assembly, install only new self-
from the hinge at the base of the column locking nuts.
(see illustration 10.5) Pull the steering b) Refer to the component assembly
column shaft upward to disengage the joint operations described in this and other
from the rack gear. relevant chapters.
7. Loosen and unscrew the nuts securing c) Tighten all threaded connections to the
the rack tie rod ends to the hub steering specified torques where indicated.
knuckles. Use a hinge puller to free the pins. e) Finally, check the adjustment of the front
Discard the nuts as new ones should be used wheels, as described in subsection 23.
то • па Подвеска и рулевое управление
Installation Check and adjustment

6. Screw the tie rod end into the tie rod the 7. Since checking wheel alignment requires
same number of turns. how long was it before both special measuring equipment and the
removal? In this case, the locknut should be ability to use it correctly, checking and
installed a quarter turn from the end of the tie adjusting wheel alignment is best done at a
rod and the marks made during removal service station. Note that most tire shops
should align. have the required equipment
7. Align the ball joint pin with the steering
knuckle, then install the new nut and tighten
it to the required torque.
8. Tighten the tie rod locknut to secure the
22.3 Remove the ball joint pin from the end.
steering knuckle using a ball pin remover 9. Install the wheel, then lower the vehicle
steering gear and from the end of the to the ground and tighten the wheel bolts to
steering rod the required torque.
3. Thoroughly clean the steering rod and 10. Check and, if necessary . adjust the
mechanism housing. Using fine sandpaper, toe-in setting of the front wheels as described
remove traces of corrosion, burrs and sharp in subsection 23
edges . which may damage the edges of the
23 Wheel alignment angles - basic
new boots during installation. Collect all the
information, checking and adjustment
grease from the old boots and place it in the
inner steering rod joint. This assumes that
the lubricant is not lost or contaminated as a Basic information
result of boot damage. If in doubt, apply fresh 1. The steering and suspension geometry
lubricant. of a car is characterized by four main
4. Carefully place the new tie rod end boot parameters. The angles related to them are
and pull it onto the steering gear housing. expressed in degrees (wheel toe is also
Align the outer edge of the boot with the mark expressed in units of length) and the axis of
made on the tie rod before removal. Then the suspension strut is defined as an
secure the boot with new clamps. imaginary line passing through the pivot
5. Install the tie rod joint as described in points of the strut and extended . if
subsection 22 necessary, to the ground.
2. Camber is the angle between the plane
22 Tie rod ends - removal and of the wheel and the vertical drawn through
installation
the wheel axis and the center of the wheel
contact area with the road, when looking at
the car from the front or rear. The camber is
Note: When installing, you will need new self-
considered ' -positive'. if the top of the wheel
locking nuts.
relative to the vertical is inclined outward, and
“negative” - if inward The camber angle is not
Removal
adjustable
1. Apply the parking brake firmly . then jack 3. The caster angle of the strut axis is the
up the front of the car and place it on jack
angle between the axis of the suspension
stands. Remove the corresponding wheel
strut and a line drawn through the center of
2. While holding the tie rod, unscrew the tie
each wheel and the midpoint of the wheel
rod end locknut a quarter turn. After this, do
contact area with the road, when viewed from
not move the locknut - it is a convenient mark
the side of the vehicle. The caster angle is
for the subsequent installation of the tie rod
considered “positive” if the point of
end.
intersection with the ground of the axle under
3. Loosen the tension and unscrew the nut
the suspensions is located in front of the
securing the tie rod end ball joint to the
point of intersection with the ground of a
steering knuckle arm. You can throw away
vertical line passing through the wheel axis,
the nut - you will need a new one when
and “negative” if behind. The angle of the
installing. Then disconnect the ball joint from
stand is not adjustable.
the steering knuckle using a ball pin remover
4. Toe is determined by the position of the
(see illustration).
line drawn through the planes of the wheels
4. Unscrew the end from the steering rod,
relative to the longitudinal axis of the car in
counting the number of turns required to
the top view. Toe is considered “positive”.
remove when the wheels with their front parts are set
5. Clean the ball joint and threads towards each other and “negative” - away
thoroughly. Replace the tie rod end if it from each other
moves too stiffly or is excessively worn or 5. Front wheel toe can be adjusted by
damaged in any way. Pay attention to the screwing or unscrewing the tie rod relative to
condition of the hinge pin. If the ball joint boot the end, which changes the effective length
is damaged, the tie rod end will need to be of the steering linkage
replaced as the boot is not sold separately. 6. Rear wheel toe is not adjustable
Chapter 11
Body and its equipment
Content
Subsection number Glass and window regulator - removal and installation. 13 Tailgate
General information. , . ............................................................. 1 and its shock absorbers -
and subframe removal and installation ........................................................ 14
ma Subsection number
intenance 2 Tailgate lock components - removal and installation .
upholstery ...................................................................... 15
car Central locking components - removal and installation 16
e3 Exterior mirrors and related elements - removal and installation...
Body restoration after minor damage 4 17
Body restoration after Windshield, side windows, tailgate glass - general information 18
serious damage ........................................................................ 5 Sunroof - general information ........................... 19
Front bumper removal and installation ..................................... 6 External body equipment - removal and installation 20
Rear bumper - removal and installation .................................... 7 Air intake grille - removal and installation. 21
Hood - removal, installation and adjustment 8 Radiator grille - removal and installation 22
Hood lock and its cable - removal and installation. .9 Seats - removal and installation. . 23
Doors - removal, installation and adjustment. ......................... 10 Seat belt components - removal and installation...................... 24
Internal door lining - removal and installation 11 Door handle and Interior finishing - removal and installation 25
lock - removal and installation. ............................................... 12 Center console - removal and installation 26
Front Console Components - Removal and Installation 27

Seat belt fasteners. . . 25
1 General information that are difficult to inspect, such as restored. A complete replacement of the
underneath, inside the wheel arches and in coating is ideal. It is also advisable to use
the lower part of the engine compartment. wax protection for spraying into door panels,
The main type of body maintenance is its window sills, etc., as this provides an
regular washing with a large amount of water additional guarantee against rusting in
The body is made of stamped steel parts
(from a hose). This helps remove any solid places where such protection is not provided
and is a hatchback. The parts are mainly
particles that may have stuck to the car. by the manufacturer
connected by welding, but some connections
During the washing process, it is important to Always ensure that the holes and pipes
are made using glue. The front fenders are
remove all these particles to prevent provided for drainage and ventilation are
bolted on
scratches from occurring in the future. It may completely open so that water can flow freely
The hood, doors and some other body
seem strange, but the best time to clean the through them. A dirty film may occasionally
panels are zinc coated and covered with a
subframe and wheel arches is in wet weather appear on the windshield and windows,
special protective compound under the paint
, when the dirt remains damp and soft. In very which should be washed off with a suitable
and varnish coating.
wet weather, the subframe is usually glass cleaner. Never
Plastic materials are widely used , mainly
automatically cleared of large build-ups of
in the interior, but also for the manufacture of
dirt. This is the best time to conduct an
external parts. The front and rear bumpers,
inspection.
as well as the radiator grille, are molded from
With the exception of vehicles equipped
a very light and durable synthetic material.
Lower body parts, such as wheel arch with a wax-based underbody coating,
guards, are made of plastic to better protect periodic steam cleaning of the subframe and
the body from corrosion engine compartment is recommended to
allow a thorough inspection to determine the
2 Body and subframe need for minor repairs and replacements.
maintenance Steam cleaning is available in many garages
and is essential for removing oily dirt. If
steam cleaning is not available, cleaning with
oil solvents applied by brush is possible. In
The general condition of the
this case, the dirt can simply be dissolved.
vehicle body is one of the parameters
Please note that these methods should
that determines its value. Body
not be used on vehicles with waxed
maintenance is not difficult, but it must be
bodywork, otherwise the coating will be
done regularly. Neglecting this rule,
removed. Such vehicles should be inspected
especially after minor damage, can quickly
annually, preferably before the onset of
lead to further deterioration of the body and
winter, with the underbody washed and
costly repairs. It is important to remember damaged areas of the protective coating
this and pay attention to those parts of the car
11 • г Кузов и его оборудование
Do not use wax or abrasive pastes for straightening of the dent is unlikely, it is or plastic mesh or fiberglass . Cut a piece of
bodywork or chrome parts to clean glass. advisable to straighten the dent to a level that material approximately the size and shape of
Upholstery and carpets should be - is approximately 3 mm below the level of the the hole, then place it in the hole like this. so
vacuumed regularly. If they are very pro-। undamaged part of the part. In the case of a that the edges of the patch are lower than the
dirty, they must be removed from the car for small dent, you should not try to pull it out at level of the surrounding metal. Fix this
wet cleaning and thoroughly dried before all. If the dent can be accessed from the position with a few drops of putty. For small
installation inside, it can be carefully straightened with a or very narrow holes, you can use aluminum
hammer with a wooden or plastic head. foil. Unwind a piece of foil from the roll, cut it
3 Carpet and interior upholstery During the straightening process, it is roughly to the shape of the hole, and glue it
care necessary to press a suitable wooden block to the edges of the hole.
from the outside to absorb the impact of the If the thickness of one layer is insufficient.
hammer blows, and thus prevent the metal fold the foil in several layers. Rub the handle
The seats and interior panels of the vehicle from bulging outward of the screwdriver along the edges of the
should be wiped with a damp cloth. If stains If the dent is in a part of the body that has patch to help them adhere better to the metal.
appear on the upholstery, remove them a double layer of metal or if access from the
using liquid detergent and a soft brush. inside is impossible for some other reason,
Body repair - puttying and
Remember to regularly clean the headrests different techniques are used. Drill several - painting
in the same way as the upholstery. When small holes in the damaged area, mainly in Before performing the work described in
using liquid detergents inside the vehicle, do the deepest places. After this, screw the long this section, read the sections that describe
not excessively moisten the surfaces to be self-tapping screws into the holes so that repairing dents, scratches, and corrosion.
cleaned. Excess moisture can remain in the they are firmly held in the metal. Straighten There are many types of putty pastes,
seams and cause unpleasant odors in the out the dent by pulling out the screws using however, the best are considered to be
interior. If water accidentally gets inside the pliers. polymerizing compounds, which are sold in
interior, especially on the carpet, it is and around the damaged area . about 2 sets containing a jar of paste and a tube of
necessary to thoroughly dry the interior cm. This can be done using a metal brush hardener. For work, you will also need a
Caution: Do not use oil or electric heaters to inserted into a drill, or manually with wide,
dry the interior. sandpaper. To complete the preparation for
applying the putty. Apply grooves to the
4 Body restoration after minor metal surface with a screwdriver or drill small
damage holes in the damaged area. This will ensure
good adhesion of the putty paste to the
metal.
Removing minor body
For the final repair operations, see the
scratches subsection “Putty and painting”
If only the paint is scratched and no metal
is touched, repairing the scratch is very Repairing corrosion holes or
simple. Lightly rub the area of the scratch deep body damage
with paint restorer or a very fine sanding Remove all paint from the surface to be
paste to remove the thin layer of paint and restored and two centimeters around it using
wax coating around the scratch. Rinse the a wire brush inserted into a drill. If such tools
treated area with clean water are not available, you can do this manually
Apply a thin coat of liquid paint to the using sandpaper. Once the paint is removed,
scratch using a soft brush, repeat this you need to assess the severity of the
process several times until the surface of the corrosion and decide whether to replace the
paint is level. Dry the new paint for at least entire part (if possible) or repair the damaged
two weeks, then buff the area with polishing area. New body parts are not as expensive
paste, then apply a protective wax coating. as most car enthusiasts think, and replacing
If the scratch has reached the metal of the parts is often a quicker and easier solution.
body . this can cause corrosion of the metal than trying to restore a rusty surface over a
Remove rust from the metal with a pocket large area
knife, then apply an anti-corrosion coating to Remove all parts installed in the damaged
prevent future corrosion Use a rubber or area except those. which will be necessary
nylon putty knife to fill the scratch with putty
when forming the initial surface. Then, using
paste If necessary, the paste can be diluted tin snips or a hacksaw blade, cut off all metal
with a solvent to allow filling of narrow that is severely damaged by corrosion. Bend
scratches Before filler Once the paste has the edges of the hole inward with a hammer
hardened, wrap your finger in a cotton cloth, to create support when filling with putty .
moisten it with solvent, then quickly rub it Use a wire brush to remove powdered rust
across the scratch. In this case, the surface from the remaining metal. Apply rust
of the putty paste will be slightly pressed. converter to the affected area ; if the inside of
Next, the scratch can be painted over. as the rusty area is accessible, treat it the same
described above. way
Before filling the damaged area with putty,
Repairing body dents
it is necessary to somehow close the hole.
With deep dents in the car body, the first This can be done using an aluminum or
task is to: to pull out the dent to return the plastic mesh, or aluminum foil.
body to its original shape. Since complete For larger holes, it is best to use aluminum
Кузов и его оборудование 11 • з
A flexible plastic or nylon spatula with thin coats of paint rather than one thick coat. apply the paint coating. The result is a
smooth, well-finished edges for finishing the Use 400-grade waterproof sandpaper to correctly painted component. and the paint
putty surface. sand down any uneven surfaces in the has good adhesion to plastic or rubber
Prepare a little putty on a clean piece of primer. When performing this operation, the
cardboard or plywood, carefully observing work area should be well moistened with 5 Body restoration after serious
the proportions of paste and hardener in water, and the sandpaper should be rinsed damage
accordance with the manufacturer's periodically. Allow the primer to dry before
instructions, otherwise the putty will harden applying paint. If serious damage has occurred or there
too quickly or never harden. Using a spatula, Apply a thin layer of paint with a sprayer, is a need to completely replace a large
apply the putty to the area to be repaired and starting from the middle of the surface, then number of parts, then such work should be
smooth it out. to obtain the required surface. smoothly moving the stream from one edge entrusted to a professional. If the damage
When the contour of the putty surface is to the other. to cover approximately 50 mm was due to a collision, it is also necessary to
close to the required one, take a break from of the surface with the old paint. After some restore the shape of the body. Due to design
work. Otherwise, the putty will begin to stick time, apply the next layer. Create the principles, the shape and load capacity of the
to the spatula. Continue adding thin layers of required paint thickness by applying multiple vehicle can be affected by damage to
putty every twenty minutes until then. until coats. Open the covered parts of the body individual parts. In such cases, it is
the level of putty is equal to the surrounding approximately 10-15 minutes after applying necessary to contact a specialist who will
metal. the last coat. give an opinion on the need to replace parts.
Once the putty has hardened, excess putty Allow the new paint to dry for at least two If the shape of the body is not restored, this
can be removed using a metal scraper or file. weeks, then use sanding paste to smooth out will lead to the following. Firstly, the car will
Further sanding is done using progressively the painted area. After this, apply a protective not handle properly. and secondly, uneven
finer grit sandpaper, starting with 40-grit wax coating. loads on the suspension, transmission and
paper and ending with 400-grade waterproof steering will lead to uneven wear or complete
paper. Always wrap the sandpaper around a
Plastic parts failure of their components. Tire wear can
piece of flat rubber, cork, or a block of wood. Automotive manufacturers' use of more also become excessive.
- otherwise the surface of the putty will not be and more plastic body parts (such as
smooth. In the process of smoothing the bumpers, spoilers, and in some cases, main
surface of the putty, the sandpaper must be body panels) means that if such parts
periodically moistened with water. The become seriously damaged, they either have
operation ends when a ring of clean metal to be repaired by a specialist in the field or
forms around the “dent”, the copy in turn is replaced. details.
surrounded by good paint. Rinse the area to Repairing such damage at a service
be restored with clean water to remove all station is impossible due to the high cost of
grinding products. equipment and materials required to carry
Spray a thick layer of primer onto the area out such repairs. The main technique for
to be repaired - it will show all the places such repairs is: that a groove is cut along the
where the putty surface has defects. crack line using an abrasive wheel inserted
Eliminate these defects with freshly prepared into an electric drill. Next, this groove is
putty and sand again with sandpaper. welded with a plastic rod melted by hot air.
Repeat this procedure until you are satisfied Excess plastic is then removed and the
with the quality of the repaired surface. Rinse surface is leveled. Important. so that a
the surface with water and let it dry plastic rod of the same composition is used
as the body part, since different types of
completely
plastics are used in the car (for example,
Now the area to be restored is ready for
polycarbonate, AB5, polypropylene)
the final operation - paint. Paint spraying
Restoration of less serious damage
should be carried out in a warm, dry,
(scratches, minor cracks, etc.) can be done
windless environment. but in a ventilated
at a service station using epoxy putty. This
area. These conditions can be created
putty is used in a similar way for body repairs.
artificially. If you have a large indoor area, but
The putty usually hardens within twenty to
if you have to work outdoors, you will need to
thirty minutes and is ready for painting.
choose the day to work very carefully. If you
If a part is being replaced as a whole or if
are working indoors, wet the floor in the area
it is rebuilt using epoxy putty, it may be
where you are working with paint. This will
difficult to find a suitable paint that is
help settle the dust that is in the atmosphere
compatible with the type of plastic used. Until
. If you are going to paint only one part of the
now, the use of a universal paint has not
body, cover the remaining parts; this will help
been possible due to the wide range of
reduce the contrast from slight differences in
plastics used in the manufacture of body
paint colors. Body trims (chrome strips, door
components. Standard paints, generally
handles, etc.) must also be covered. To do
speaking, do not adhere well to plastic or
this, use adhesive tape and several layers of
rubber.
newspaper. However, it is now possible to purchase
Before you start painting, shake the plastic body parts complete with primer and
aerosol thoroughly and try painting paint in various colors. Usually complete
something away from the car until you get instructions are included with the kit, but...
sufficient skills. Cover the area to be repaired Basically, the method of use is to apply a
with a thick layer of primer; however, primer first. Dry for 30 minutes and then
thickness should be created by using several
л 1 • а Кузов и его оборудование
6.6 Выкрутите болт крепления (от-

6 .4 Unscrew the screws from each side - 6.5 Remove the plastic guard securing the base мечен стрелкой) задней кромки бампера
of the protection rivet (marked with an arrow) in front of the wheel arch to the к передним крыльям с каждой стороны
bumper bumper on each side
6.11 Make sure the locating pins on the

6.7 Выкрутите три винта (отмечены
sides of the bumper are properly aligned
стрелками), крепящие верхний пере- 6.9 Аккуратно тяните бампер вперед with the front fenders
дний край бампера к его кронштейну от автомобиля
7 Front bumper - removal and bumper Removal
installation 9. Bend the tabs under the main headlights 1. Block the front wheels, then lift the rear
, then, with the help of an assistant. carefully of the car and install supports (see “Lifting
pull the bumper forward from the car (see the car with a jack and installing supports”)
Note: When removing and installing the illustration) 10. To remove the bumper 2. Remove the rear headlight units from
bumper, you will need an assistant to bracket, unscrew the three bolts on each both sides, as described in chapter 12,
support it. side, then remove the bracket. subsection 5
3. Using a Y-shaped puller, remove the
Removal Installation plastic rivets at the rear of the bumper along
1 . Apply the handbrake, then lift the front of 11. Installation is carried out in the reverse its sides.
the car and install supports (see “Lifting the order of removal. Make sure the locating 4. Unscrew the two lower central bolts
car with a jack and installing supports”) To pins on the sides of the bam are properly securing the bumper to its bracket ( see
provide access to the bumper fasteners, aligned with the front fenders (see illustration).
remove both front wheels 2. Remove the illustration)
5. Working through the openings in the -
radiator grille as described in subsection 22 wheel arch protections, unscrew the bolts
3. Turn the clips a quarter turn and remove
7 Rear bumper -
removal and installation securing the bumper to the rear fenders on
the engine guard (where it is installed). the sides of the car (see illustration).
4. Unscrew the screws on each side 6. Unscrew the bolt on each side on the
securing the wheel arch protection base to upper edge of the bumper (see illustration )
the bumper (see illustration) Note: When removing and installing the
5. Using a Y-shaped puller, remove the bumper, you will need an assistant to
plastic rivets from the front of the bumper support it.
along its sides (see illustration)
6. Unscrew the bolts securing the rear
edge of the bumper to the front fenders -
located behind the wheel arch protection
(see illustration)
7. Remove the three screws securing the
upper front edge of the bumper to its bracket
(see illustration)
8. On models equipped with fog lights,
disconnect the fog light wire connectors and 7.4 Unscrew the two lower central bolts
release the wiring from the clamps securing the bumper to its bracket
7.3 Remove the plastic rivets at the rear of
the bumper along its sides
1. 5 Unscrew the bolt (marked with an 7.6 Выкрутите с каждой стороны болт штифты по бокам бампера (отмечены
arrow ) securing the bumper to the rear (отмечен стрелкой) на верхней кромке стрелкой) правильно совместились с
fenders on each side of the car бампера задними крыльями
9 Hood lock and its ); . cable -
Removal
1. Unscrew the two bolts securing the hood
mop to the radiator frame. Remove the lock
and disconnect the hood release cable (see
illustrations)
2. 2 Disconnect the windshield washer 8.3 Отверните по два болта крепления 2. Mark the original position and release the
hose (marked with an arrow) from the right петель к капоту с каждой стороны cable from its clamps along the entire length
nozzle in the engine compartment
3. Use a screwdriver to push in the cable
7. Bend back the three tabs located along hood and insert its bolts. Align the hinges
seal located in the partition . into the car
the top edge of the bumper, then, with the with the marks made when removing the
interior
help of an assistant, carefully pull the bumper hood, then tighten the bolts securely.
4. Unscrew the two nuts securing the hood
back away from the car . Connect the windshield washer hose.
release lever under the instrument panel on
8. To remove the bumper bracket, remove 6. Close the hood and check the alignment
the left side of the cabin, and remove the
two bolts on each side, then remove the with the adjacent panels. If necessary,
lever
bracket loosen the hinge bolts and move the hood to
5. Tie a rope to the end of the cable in the
the desired position. After adjustment,
Installation engine compartment, mark the position of the
securely tighten the hinge bolts.
cable, then carefully pull the cable into the
9. Installation is carried out in the reverse 7. When finished, check how the hood vehicle interior. Untie the rope from the
order of removal. Make sure the locating opens and closes . If adjustment is
cable.
pins on the sides of the bumper are properly necessary, loosen the bolts securing the
aligned with the rear fenders (see hood lock. and move the lock to the desired Installation
illustration) position 6. Place the cable in its location inside the
car.
8 Hood -
removal, installation and adjustment
7. Tie a rope to the end of the cable and pull
it into the engine compartment
8. Make sure the cable seal is installed
Removal correctly in the bulkhead. Untie the rope and
1. Open the hood and ask a helper to hold connect the cable to the hood lock lever.
it, then use a pencil or felt-tip pen to mark the
position of the hinges relative to the hood (to
facilitate subsequent installation).
2. Disconnect the windshield washer hose
from the right nozzle and release it from the
fasteners (see illustration)
3. Unscrew the bolts securing the hinges to
the hood (see illustration) Using an assistant,
carefully remove the hood from the vehicle.
Store the hood in a safe place.
4. Check for wear on the hinges or play in
the pivot pins.
When installing, replace the hinges. Each
hinge is attached to the body with two bolts.
When assembling, lubricate the hood hinges
9.1а Выкрутите два болта (отмечены 9.1Ь Снимите замок и отсоедините
with multi-purpose grease.
стрелками), крепящие замок капота тросик открывания капота
Installation and adjustment to the radiator frame position. After
5. With the help of an assistant, position the adjustment, tighten the lock bolts securely.
9. Install the hood release lever and tighten

its nuts securely
10. Connect the cable to the hood lock ,
then install the lock, tightening its bolts
securely.
11. Secure the cable with clamps. Check
the operation of the lock and, if necessary,
adjust the position of the lock within the
elongated bolt holes until its normal
operation is achieved.
10 Doors - 10.2 Squeeze the inner keys of the guide and
removal, installation and adjustment remove it from the car body 10.4 Unscrew the bolt securing the door
opening restriction and rivet the plastic
Front door Backdoor latches that secure the lining to the door
7. The procedures are identical to those for along the contour (see illustration).
Removal frames with a front door. Note that access to 4. Pull the trim panel away from the door,
1. Remove the protective rubber boot from adjust the hinge bolts to the vehicle body is lift it up and remove it from the door (see
the door wiring guide. provided with the front door open illustration)
2. Squeeze the inner keys on the guide and
Installation
remove it from the car body (see illustration). 11 Internal door trim - removal and
installation 5. Before installation, make sure that none
3. Pry up and remove the lock latch and
of the door panel fasteners were broken
disconnect the door wiring connector
during removal. If necessary, replace the
4. Unscrew the fastening bolt and
panel clips and install it in the reverse order
disconnect the door opening limiting lever Front door
of removal. Make sure that the tabs on the
from its post (see illustration) 5. Make sure
Removal back of the panel are aligned with the
that the door is firmly supported, remove the
1. Carefully remove the door handle grooves on the inside door handle (see
door hinge pin stoppers, then remove the
trim using a small screwdriver, then unscrew illustration)
upper and lower hinge pins. Carefully -
remove the door from the car. the two fastening screws (see illustrations)
2. Unscrew the two screws securing the Backdoor
Installation bottom edge of the facing panel to the door Removal
6. Installation is carried out in the reverse (see illustration). 6. The procedure is similar to the front door
order of removal 3. Using a suitable flat tool, pry and procedure, but has the following features:
a) Remove the window handle from
11.1a Carefully remove the door handle

17. 1b ...then unscrew the two fastening - 11.2 Unscrew the two screws (marked with
trim... arrows) securing the rear edge of the facing
screws (marked with arrows)
panel to the door
11.5 Убедитесь, что выступы на об-

11.3 Подденьте и расклепайте плас- 11.4 Потяните облицовочную панель ратной стороне панели (отмечены
тмассовые защелки, крепящие по от двери, приподнимите и снимите ее стрелками) совместились с пазами
контуру облицовку к двери с двери внутренней ручки двери
1 я • Б Кузов и его оборудование
12.3 Carefully peel off the self-adhesive an arrow) from the handle lever
plastic door insulation sheet with a sharp 1 2.4 Remove the door handle from its
2. .9 Pull the back of the outer handle and
knife location by sliding it backwards
disconnect the front of the handle from the
window lift shaft.
b) The rear edge of the door trim panel is not
secured with screws.
Installation
order of removal. Before installation, if
necessary, replace the panel latches that
were broken during removal.
12 Door handle and lock -

removal and installation 2 2.8 Slide the white plastic handle drive
lever forward so that the back of the outer pin of the front hinge of the handle that was
handle is not connected to it. not connected to it (see illustration)
Inner door handle 9. Pull the back part of the outer handle and
Removal sequences In this case, make sure
disconnect the front part of the handle from
Removal that the cable is connected correctly. Clean
the front hinge pin (see illustration) Remove
Note: New door insulation will be required any old adhesive residue from the door and
the handle from the door.
during installation . install a new sheet of door insulation. Install
10. Detach the plastic cover of the lock
the speaker as described in Chapter 1 2.
1. Remove the door trim panel as cylinder, then you drill the heads of the rivets
then the trim panel as described in
described in subsection 11. securing the handle bracket to the door with
subsection 11
2. Remove the speaker from the door as a 5 mm drill bit (see illustrations)
described in Chapter 12 Front door lock and outside 11. Unscrew the three screws securing the
3. Carefully peel off the self-adhesive lock assembly to the edge of the door (see
plastic sheet of door insulation with a sharp handle illustration)
knife (see illustration). The sheet will be Note: The outer handle mounting bracket is 12. Disconnect the central locking drive
irreversibly damaged during the removal riveted to the door. Make sure you have the wire connector, then remove the lock along
process , so new insulation will be required correct new rivets required for assembly. with the outer handle bracket through the
during installation. Removal door opening (see illustration)
4. Remove the door handle from its 7 . Remove the inside door handle as 13. To separate the door lock from the
position by sliding it back (see illustration ) outside handle bracket, lift the lock ring rod
described above.
5. Move the drive cable away from the 8 . Slide the white plastic handle drive lever and remove the ring from the door lock. Pull
handle and disconnect its end from the - forward like this. so that the locking latch fits the ring
handle lever (see illustration). into the recess, and the back of the outer
Installation 1. .5 Move the drive cable away from the
6. Installation is done in reverse handle and disconnect its end (marked with
12.10а Отсоедините пластмассовую 12.10Р ...затем высверлите головки 12.11 Выкрутите три винта, крепящие
накладку цилиндра замка... заклепок, крепящих кронштейн ручки к замок в сборе к краю двери
двери
11 • в Кузов и его оборудование
12.12 Disconnect the wire connector , 12.13 a Lift the locking ring rod and 12.13b Pull the ring off the lock cylinder
then remove the lock along with the outer remove the ring from the door lock. cylinder rod and disconnect the rod from the
handle bracket lock
12.17а Вдавите шпонку на цилиндре 12.17b...and remove the cylinder from the - 12.23 Remove the three screws securing -
замка... outer handle mounting bracket the lock assembly to the edge of the door
from the lock cylinder rod and disconnect the Installation the handle from the front hinge pin ( see
rod from the lock (see illustrations) illustration 12.9) Remove the handle from the
14. Disconnect the lock drive cable from the order of removal. door
handle mounting bracket, then disconnect 22. Detach the plastic lining at the end of
the end of the cable from the handle lever. Rear door lock and outside the outer handle mounting bracket, then drill
out the heads of the rivets securing the
Installation handle handle bracket to the door with a 5 mm drill
15. Installation is carried out in the reverse Note: The outer handle mounting bracket is bit (see illustration 12.10)
order of removal. When reassembling, use riveted to the door. Make sure you have the 23. Unscrew the three screws securing the
new rivets to secure the handle mounting correct new rivets required for assembly. lock assembly to the edge of the door (see
bracket. illustration).
Removal 24. Disconnect the wire clamp from the
Front door lock cylinder Removal 19. Remove the inner door handle as door panel (see illustration)
described above 25. Remove the lock along with the outer
16. Remove the front door lock and outside
20. Slide the white plastic handle drive handle bracket through the door opening and
handle as described above.
lever forward like this. so that the locking disconnect the central locking wire connector
17. Press the key on the lock cylinder and
latch fits into the recess, and the back of the (see illustration).
remove it from the outer handle mounting
outer handle is not connected to it (see - 26. To separate the door lock from the
bracket (see illustration)
illustration 12.8). outside handle bracket, disconnect the lock
21. Pull the back of the outer handle and drive cable from the handle mounting
disconnect the front of bracket, then unhook the end of the cable
from the handle lever (see illustration).
12.24 Отсоедините зажим проводов от 12.25 Выкрутите три винта, крепящие 12.26 Отцепите конец тросика от ры-
панели двери замок в сборе к краю двери чага ручки
13.5 Press the window lifter guide lock

(marked with an arrow) and release it from
the clip
13.12 Disconnect the wire connector from the

13.11 Remove the outer damper through the power window motor
opening in the door Removal sequence
Remove any remaining adhesive from the 10. Unscrew the two screws securing the
13.106 Remove the internal damper along door and install a new sheet of door rear glass guide to the door. Remove the
with the guide through the door opening insulation. Install the speaker as described in internal damper along with the guide through
Chapter 12, then the trim panel as described the opening in the door (see illustrations)
Installation in subsection 11 11. Remove the external damper through
27. Installation is in the reverse order of the door opening (see illustration)
removal. When reassembling, use new rivets Front
to secure the handle mounting bracket. window regulator power window motor (see illustration)
13 Glass and /. Note 1: New door insulation will be required 13. Drill out the heads of the four rivets.
window lifter - 2H-. during installation. attaching the window regulator to the door
removal and installation Note 2: The window regulator is riveted to the with a 5 mm drill (see illustration )
door. Make sure you have the correct new 14. Remove the window regulator
rivets required for assembly. assembly through the door opening (see -
Front door glass illustration).
Note: New door insulation will be required Removal
during installation . 8. Remove the glass from the window lifter Installation
guide as described in subsections 1-5 above. 15. Installation is carried out in the reverse
Removal
9. Raise the glass to the fully closed order of removal. Clean off any remaining
1. Remove the door trim panel as adhesive from the door and install a new
position and secure it in this position with
described in subsection 1 1.
tape on top of the door sheet of door insulation. Install the speaker
2. Remove the speaker from the door as as described .
3. Carefully peel off the self-adhesive
plastic sheet of door insulation with a sharp
knife (see Illustration 12.3). The sheet will be
irreversibly damaged during the removal
process , so new insulation will be required
during installation .
4. Lower the window about three-quarters
of the way down.
5. Press the window guide lock , carefully
lift the glass and release it from the clip (see 13.13 Drill out the heads of the four rivets
illustration) (marked with arrows) securing the window
6. Lower the front part of the glass and regulator to the door 13.14 Remove the window regulator
remove it from the outside of the door (see 13.10a Unscrew the two screws (marked with assembly through the door opening
illustration) arrows) securing the rear glass guide to the
door
Installation
7. Installation is done in reverse
13.6 Lower the front part of the glass and
remove it from the outside of the door
11»ю Кузов и его оборудование
13.20 Высвободите внутренний уп-

13.19а Выкрутите винты (отмечены 13.19Ь ...и снимите направляющую лотнитель из-под пластмассовой па-
стрелками), крепящие направляющую нели, затем извлеките уплотнитель из
стекла оконного проема
13.22 Поднимите стекло так, чтобы

13.21 Снимите уплотнитель направ- иметь доступ к обойме стекла (отме- 13.26 Приподнимите вверх заднюю
ляющей оконного проема с двери чена стрелкой) через проем в двери часть стекла и снимите его с двери
sanitize in Chapter 12, then cladding panel as position and secure it in this position with the glass frame through the opening in the
described in subsection 11 tape on top of the door. door (see illustration 13.22)
25. Lower the window mechanism 32. Press the window guide lock, carefully
Rear door glass completely using its handle. lift the glass and release it from the clip (see
Note: New door insulation will be required 26. Lower the window completely, then lift illustration 13.5).
during installation. up the back of the glass and remove it from 33. Raise the glass to the fully closed
Removal the door (see illustration). Take care not to position by hand and secure it in this position
damage the paint on the door. with tape on top of the door.
16. Remove the door trim panel as
34. Lower the window mechanism
described in subsection 1 1. Installation
completely using its handle.
17. Remove the speaker from the door as 27. Installation is carried out in the reverse
order of removal. Clean any old adhesive
18. Carefully peel off the self-adhesive
residue from the door and install a new sheet
plastic sheet of door insulation with a sharp
of door insulation. Install the speaker as
knife (see Illustration 12.3). The sheet will be
described in chapter 12, then the facing panel
permanently damaged during the removal
as described in subsection 1 1.
during installation. Rear door window regulator
19. Unscrew the two screws from the back
Note 1: New door insulation will be required
of the door that secure the glass guide and
during installation.
remove the guide (see illustrations)
20. Carefully pry and remove the front end Note 2: The window regulator is riveted to the 13.35 Drill out the heads of the four rivets
of the plastic panel from the rear lower corner door. Make sure you have the appropriate (marked with arrows) securing the window
of the outer window opening. Release the new rivets required for assembly. regulator to the door
internal seal from under the plastic panel, Removal
then remove the seal from the window
opening (see illustration).
28. Remove the door trim panel as
21. Starting from the rear lower corner,
carefully remove the seal on the window 29. Remove the speaker from the door as
opening guide from the door (see illustration). described in Chapter 12.
22. Temporarily install the window lift 30. Carefully peel off the self-adhesive
handle and lift the glass so that you have plastic sheet of door insulation with a sharp
access to the glass frame through the knife (see Illustration 12.3). The sheet will be
opening in the door (see illustration ) irreversibly damaged during the removal
23. Press the window guide lock, carefully
during installation.
lift the glass and release it from the clip (see
illustration 13.5). 31. Temporarily install the window handle -
and lift the glass so that you have access to
24. Raise the glass to the fully closed
Кузов и его оборудование Л п • *1 л
13.41 Move the door seal above the window

13.36 Remove the window regulator 13.40 Remove the window opening guide and drill out the head of the upper rivet of the
assembly through the door opening seals from the door, up to the car window window bridge
13.42 Drill out the head of the lower rivet,

13.44 Потяните форточку автомобиля
reaching it through the opening in the door 13.43 Выкрутите винт, находящийся назад, затем выведите форточку из
35. Drill out the heads of the four rivets - ниже основания наружного зеркала проема двери
securing the window regulator to the door then remove the window from the door the hinged door (see illustration). Remove -
with a 5 mm drill (see illustration) opening (see illustration) the O-ring from the hinged door and remove
36. Remove the window regulator the wiring harness.
Installation
assembly through the opening in the door
(see illustration ) 45. Installation is carried out in the reverse 5. Remove the upper brake light as
order of removal. described in (section 12, subsection 5.
Installation 6. Remove two bolts on each side securing
14. Tailgate. and its shock the hinges to the tailgate and carefully
absorbers - remove the tailgate from the vehicle.
order of removal. Clean off any remaining
removal and installation left
adhesive from the door and install a new Installation
sheet of door insulation. Install the speaker 7. If you are replacing a roll-up tailgate,
as described in Chapter 12, then the trim Tailgate transfer all serviceable components (lock
panel as described in subsection 1 1. Removal mechanism, windshield wiper motor, etc.) to
1. Remove the rear door trim panel as the new door according to the
Front door window Note: The window recommendations in this chapter and in
guide is riveted to the door. Make sure you Chapter 12.
have the correct new rivets required for 8. Installation is carried out in the reverse -
assembly. order of removal, including the following
Removal points:
38. Remove the front door glass as a) If necessary, adjust the position of the
described above in this subsection. rubber pads to ensure a tight, proper fit
39. Remove the outside mirror from the - of the closed door.
door. as described in subsection 1 7.
40. Pry and remove the internal and
external seals from the window opening, then
carefully remove the seal from the top door
crossbar, up to the car window (see 14.4 Remove the electrical wiring cover -
illustration ) from the left edge of the hinged door
41. Using a small screwdriver , move the 2. Disconnect the harness connectors from
door seal above the window. Drill out the the internal components of the tailgate,
head of the upper rivet of the window lintel referring to the appropriate procedures in
with a 5 mm drill (see illustration). Chapter 12.
42. Similarly, drill out the head of the lower 3. Have an assistant support the hinged
rivet, reaching it through the opening in the door, then pry and remove the door shock
door (see illustration) 43. Unscrew the absorber spring clips and pull the shock
central fixing screw located below the base of absorbers off the hinges on the hinged door.
the outside mirror (see illustration). 4. Unscrew the screws and remove the
44. Pull the car window back to release the electrical wiring casing from the left edge of
guide seal from the front door crosspiece,
11 • в Кузов и его оборудование
15 Tailgate lock components - 16 Central locking components -

removal and installation Removal and installation
Rear flap lock

Control block
doors 1. The central locking system is controlled
Removal by an integrated peripheral unit, which is part
1. Remove the trim panel from the hinged of the vehicle's computer-controlled electrical
rear door as described in subsection 25. system. The block is located on the left under
2. Unscrew the two screws securing the the console. For more details, see Chapter
14.10 Press on the spring clips and pull the lock to the rear door (see illustration) 12.
shock absorbers off the hinges on the rear 3. Press the keys on the sides of the lock 2. If problems occur with the operation of
door and pull it into the interior of the rear door. the central locking system or with any of the
Remove the lock from the rear door opening other functions controlled by the peripheral
b) If necessary, adjust the position of the
and disconnect the wire connector (see unit. The car should be taken to a specialized
door lock and/or the door-to-hinge bolts
illustrations). service station for diagnostic testing.
by moving them within the extended
holes to achieve satisfactory lock Installation Door lock motor
function. 4. Installation is carried out in the reverse 3. The electric motor is an integral part of
order of removal. At the same time, adjust the the door lock assembly. Removal and
Tailgate Shock Absorbers position of the lock striker plate as necessary installation of the lock are described in
Removal to ensure proper closure of the door. subsection 12.
9. Secure the tailgate in the open position
with the help of an assistant or by supporting
Tailgate lock bumper plate
Tailgate lock motor
it with a suitable wooden stick. Removal 4. Removing the tailgate lock motor is
10. Using a small screwdriver, press the 5. Unscrew the screws and remove the described as part of the tailgate lock removal
spring clips and pull the shock absorbers off lower panel of the rear door opening and installation procedure. described in
the hinges on the rear door (see illustration) subsection 15.
11. Similarly, release the shock absorbers
Remote controller
from the hinges on the car body and remove
the shock absorbers from the car remote control
Replacing the battery
5 Unscrew the screw with a small
screwdriver and carefully separate the two
halves of the remote control, then remove the
battery.
6. Install a new battery and reassemble the
remote control.
6. .3a Press the keys on the sides of the
lock and pull it into the interior of the rear door
11.2 Remove the two screws securing the

lock to the rear door
7. .6 Unscrew the two clamp bolts (marked

with arrows) and remove the bumper plate
from the car body (see subsection 25) to
provide access to the bolts of the bumper
plate 6. Mark the position of the plate on the
body to facilitate installation. You twist the
11.3 b Remove the lock and disconnect the two clamping bolts and remove the bumper
wire connector plate from the body (see illustration)
Installation
Installation
7. Installation of the lock in the reverse
sequence of removal Before tightening the
order of removal. Make sure the spring clips
clamp bolts, select the position of the plate
are positioned correctly. that ensures normal functioning of the lock
(the holes of the clamp bolt are elongated). If
installation marks were applied before
removal, use them during installation.
replacing fixed windows, especially

windshields, done by specialists.
19 Roof hatch -
general information
The hatch installed by manufacturers is

electrically driven. Due to the complexity of
the hatch opening mechanism, great skill is
required to remove, successfully repair and
17.4 Выкрутите три крепящих винта adjust the mechanism. Removing the sunroof
17.2 Carefully pry and remove the mirror trim (отмечены стрелками) и снимите requires removing the headliner, which is a
зеркало с двери tedious and difficult job. Therefore, all
problems related to the sunroof should be
addressed to authorized service stations.
20 External with
body equipment -
Wheel arch protection/mud

flaps
1. Wheel arch protections are attached
5. Installation is carried out in the reverse using plastic rivets. To remove, push out or
17.6a Having found access behind the outer
order of removal. remove (depending on the type of rivet) the
edge of the mirror glass...
central pin, then pry up and remove the entire
Key recognition block Exterior mirror glass 6. Having found rivet. Having riveted and removed all the
access behind the outer edge of the mirror plastic rivets, remove the protection from
7. To calibrate the unit after replacing the
glass, use a screwdriver to press out the under the wheel arch (see illustrations).
battery, turn off the ignition, then turn on the
plastic tabs securing the glass to the mirror
ignition and immediately press the lock
housing (see illustrations)
Decorative strips (moldings)
button. Turn off the ignition and remove the
7. Remove the glass and disconnect the and body linings
key from the ignition
wire connector (where it is provided for in the 2. Various strips (moldings) and linings are
design) held on the body using a special adhesive
17 Exterior mirrors and related
8. Slide the glass into the mirror housing tape. Removal requires heating the
elements - removal and installation molding/on-
until the glass snaps into place.
Exterior mirror assembly 18 Windshield, side windows,

1. Make sure the ignition is turned
tailgate glass - general information
off .
These glasses are precisely fitted in the
2. Remove the door trim panel . as
openings with body seals and are held in
described in subsection 1 1. then carefully
position using special adhesive materials.
pry and remove the mirror trim (see
Removing such fixed glass is a complex and
illustration)
time-consuming job that is beyond the
3. Disconnect the mirror wire connectors
competence of a home mechanic . It is
4. Unscrew the three fastening screws and
difficult to achieve a reliable and waterproof
remove the mirror from the door (see
connection between the glass and the body
illustration )
without a lot of practice. In addition, this work
17.6b... use a screwdriver to press out the carries a high risk of damage to the glass,
plastic protrusions (marked with arrows) which is especially dangerous for laminated
securing the glass to the mirror body windshields. Therefore, car owners are
strongly recommended to have the work of
20.1а Извлеките центральный штифт 20.1 Ь Сняв все пластмассовые за-

пластмассовой заклепки, затем под- клепки, выведите защиту из-под пе- 20.1с ...или из-под задней колесной арки
деньте и снимите всю заклепку редней колесной арки...
и • ла Кузов и его оборудование
21.3 Pull the rubber hood seal off the front

edge of the air intake opening 21.4 Remove the five screws securing the 21.5 Release the latch and remove the
grille to the interior panels grille
masonry to soften the adhesive layer and
then cut it off from the surface of the body.
Since during this operation there is a high
risk of damaging the paintwork of the car
surface, it is recommended that this work be
carried out at a company service station.
21 Air intake grille - removal and

installation
Removal ring from the wiper spindle, then remove the

21.7 Remove the rubber sealing 21.6 Освободите левую внутреннюю
right inner panel
панель от резинового уплотнителя в
1. Open the hood cover and lock it
основании ветрового стекла и снимите
in the highest position.
панель 23 Сидения -
2. Remove the windshield wiper arms as снятие и установка
2. Unscrew the three screws on the
top edge and the bolts on the sides
3. Pull the rubber hood seal off the front
edge of the air intake opening [see securing the grille (see illustrations) of more than 100 ° C.
illustration) 3. Unlock the latches on the sides of the
4. Remove the five screws securing the grille . adjacent to the lower edges of the
headlights
grille to the interior panels (see picture). or -
lustration) 4. Lift the grille by unhooking the lower
5. Press the latch and remove the grille (see mounting lugs and remove the grille from the
illustration). car (see illustration)
6. Release the left inner panel from the
Installation
rubber seal at the base of the windshield and
remove the panel (see illustration) 5. Installation is carried out in sequence .
7. Remove the rubber sealing ring from the Reverse removal sequence.
wiper spindle, then remove the right inner
22.4 Lift the grille by unhooking the lower
panel ( see illustration)
mounting tabs and remove the grille from the
Installation vehicle
order of removal
22.2b ...and bolts on the sides securing the

grille
Front seats
Warning: The front seats are equipped
22.2a Unscrew the screws securing the

radiator grill...
A with side airbags integrated into the
outer side bolsters of the seats. Refer to
the safety precautions in Chapter 12 when
22 Radiator grille - handling air bags. Do not come into contact
■removal and installation with the airbags or try to test the functionality
of their components. Note that the air bag will
work if an electric current is applied to its
mechanism (including through an
Removal ohmmeter), or if it is heated to a temperature
1. Open and lock the hood in this position.
seat rails to the floor of the car
23.3 Unscrew one bolt on each side (marked

with arrows ) securing the rear parts of the 23.11 Unscrew the bolt securing the seat belt
seat rails to the floor of the car anchor to the seat belt to the floor (see
23.10 Unscrew the two bolts securing the illustration )
central seat support to the floor b) Turn off 12. Using a \/-shaped puller, remove the
the ignition. fastening pins of the side supports of the seat
e) If the warning light does not signal as back (see illustration )
described in point c), provide the vehicle 13. Remove the side support swivel
to the manufacturer's representatives for brackets from their locations, then remove
inspection before leaving. the right and left seat backs from the vehicle
(see illustration )
Removing the rear seats 14. To separate the backrests, remove the
Seat cushion two mounting bolts and the seat belt clamp
lock nut, then separate the seats.
8. Remove the facing caps, then unscrew
23.8 Remove the trim caps , then remove the the three front mounting bolts of the seat
three front seat cushion mounting bolts Rear seat installation
cushion (see illustration ). Pull the seat by
1. Deactivate the airbag system (see tilting it forward. and remove it from the car order of removal. Tighten the seat belt bolts
Chapter 12) before removing the seats. Seat back to the specified torque.
2. Move the seat all the way forward
9. Remove the shelf from the luggage
3. Remove the bolts (one on each side) compartment, if installed.
securing the rear portions of the seat rails to
10. Remove the two bolts securing the
the vehicle floor [see illustration) center support to the floor (see illustration ).
4. Move the seat all the way back.
11. Tilt the seat backs forward and unscrew
5. Unscrew the bolts (one on each side)
the bolt securing the belt anchor.
securing the front parts of the seat rails to the
floor of the car (see illustration)
6. Tilt the seat back and disconnect the
seat wire connectors (see illustration)
Release the wiring from the seat clamps,
then remove the seat from the vehicle. 23.13 Remove the side support pivot
7. Installation is carried out in the reverse brackets from their locations
order of removal. Observe the following
precautions before connecting the battery.
a) Make sure that there is no one in the car
and that there are no loose objects near
the seats. 23.12 Remove the fastening pins of the
b) Make sure the ignition is turned off, then side supports of the seat back
connect the airbag control unit and
battery.
c) Open the driver's door and turn on the
ignition. The airbag warning light should
flash briefly and then go out.
23.6 Tilt the seat back and connect the seat

wire connectors (marked with arrows)
23.5 Unscrew one bolt on each side (marked

with arrows) securing the front parts of the
и • ла Кузов и его оборудование
Internal lining
doors
1. Refer to subsection 1 1
Front pillar trim

Removal
2. Pry up and remove the rain seal from the
front door opening near the A-pillar
3. Starting at the top, carefully separate the
trim from the A-pillar, releasing the internal
24.5 Анкерный болт инерционной 24.10 Анкерный болт (отмечен стрел-
locking tabs (see illustrations).
катушки переднего ремня безопас- кой) инерционного барабана ремня
4. Lift the trim, detaching it from the side of
ности (отмечен стрелкой) безопасности заднего сидения
the dashboard and remove it from the car.
24 Seat belt components - and that there are no loose objects near
the seats.
Installation
5. Installation is in the reverse order of
b) Make sure the ignition is turned off, then
removal. Make sure all latches are latched
Note: Mark the original positions of - connect the battery.
and the rain seal is seated correctly and
the washers and spacers of the seat c) Open the driver's door and turn on the
completely.
belt anchors and ensure subsequent correct ignition. The airbag warning light should
installation. flash briefly and then go out.
b) Turn off the ignition.
e) If the warning light does not signal as
Front seat belt A Warning: The

front seat belt brackets and inertia reels are
described in point c), provide the vehicle
to the manufacturer's representatives for
inspection before leaving.
equipped with a tension mechanism with a 1) Tighten the seat belts to the specified
pyrotechnic element. Refer to the safety torque.
precautions in Chapter 12 regarding air bags
and seat belt tensioners. Do not come into Rear seat belts
contact with the tension mechanisms and do 9. Remove the luggage compartment side
not try to check the functionality of their
25.3b releasing the internal locking tabs
components. Note that the pyrotechnic panels as described in
element will work if an electric current is
supplied to the mechanism (including
through an ohmmeter), or if it is heated to a
temperature of more than 100'C. After
removal from the vehicle, pyrotechnic
components should be stored in an
appropriate place, in accordance with safety
regulations.
1. Deactivate the airbag system (thus
deactivating the pyrotechnic elements of the
seat belt tensioning mechanisms). as
described in (chapter 12. before starting to
remove the seat belts. 25.3a Starting at the top, carefully separate
2. Remove the corresponding front seat as the trim from the A-pillar. ..
described in subsection 23. subsection 25
3. Remove the B- pillar trim panels as 10. Unscrew the anchor bolt securing the
described in subsection 25. seat belt inertia drum to the car body, then
4. Disconnect the wire connector from the remove the drum and seat belt (see
inertial drum tension mechanism. illustration).
5. Unscrew the anchor bolt of the inertial - 11. To remove the seat belt bracket , bend
drum and remove the washers (see the rear seat cushions back and unscrew the
illustration) nut securing the brackets to the rear seat
support and the bolt securing the seat belt
6. Remove the inertia drum from the door
anchor to the floor.
pillar, then remove the seat belt assembly
12. To remove the central inertia drum of
from the vehicle.
the seat belt, the seat must be partially
7. To remove the seat belt tensioner
removed. This work should be carried out at
bracket , pry up and remove the trim panel
a company service station
from the seat side. Unscrew the fastening
bolt and remove the tension mechanism from
Reverse removal sequence. Tighten the seat
the seat mounts.
belt bolts to the specified torque.
order of removal. Observe the following
25 Interior decoration -
precautions before connecting the battery. removal and installation
a) Make sure that there is no one in the car
away from the post to release the internal sill trim away from the timber to disengage its
fasteners. latches; the latches are latched and the rain
seal is correctly and completely seated in its
position.
Rear door sill trim

Removal
19. Remove the rear seat backs as
20. Remove the luggage compartment top
panel as described below
25.7 Remove the trim cap , then unscrew
21. Pry up and remove the rain seal from
the upper mounting bolt of the front seat belt
the rear and bottom edge of the rear door
opening
25.13 Carefully lift up the rear edge of the 22. Remove the facing cap then unscrew
front door window sill trim and the front seat the lower anchor bolt of the rear seat seat
seat belt bolt (see illustration) belt (see illustration)
13. Carefully lift up the bottom edge of the 23. Carefully pry and move the sill trim
front door sill trim. Release the front edge of panel away from its location to release its
the rear window sill trim in the same way (see internal latches.
illustration)
14. Carefully pry the lower trim panel away
from the pillar to release the internal clips,
then unhook the seat belt and remove the
25.12 Remove the facing cap, then unscrew
panel.
the lower anchor bolt of the front seat seat
belt Installation
B-pillar upper trim Reverse removal sequence. Make sure all
latches are latched
Removal
6. Pry up and remove the rain seal from Front door sill trim
the front door opening and behind the door Removal 25. 22 Remove the trim cap, then unscrew
near the B-pillar the rear seat belt lower anchor bolt
7. Remove the facing cap, then unscrew
the bottom edge of the front door opening
the upper mounting bolt of the front seat
17. Carefully pry and move the lining of the
seat belt (see illustration)
window sill beam in front of the door away
8. Carefully pry the base of the top trim
from the beam to release its latches, then
panel away from the post to release the
remove it from the car ( see illustration)
internal fasteners (see illustration)
9. Lower the trim to release the upper Installation
mounting tabs and remove the trim panel 18. Installation is carried out in the reverse
from the vehicle (see illustration) order of removal. Make sure everything
Installation
10. Installation is in the reverse order of
removal. Make sure all latches are latched
and the rain seal is seated correctly and
completely.
Lower trim of the central pillar

Removal
11. Remove the top trim of the center pillar
as described above.
12. Remove the facing cap, then unscrew 25.9 Lower the trim to release the top
the lower anchor mounting tabs
25.B Gently pry the base of the top trim panel 25.17 Carefully pry and move the front door
л п • п в Кузов и его оборудование
25.23 Carefully pry and move the sill trim 25.26 Remove the facing cap, then unscrew slot in the panel and disconnect it from the
panel away from its location to release its the upper mounting bolt of the rear seat belt belt
internal fasteners 25.27 Lift the facing cap over the seat belt
25.29 Carefully pry and move the top panel

away from the car body, disconnect the 25.33 Выкрутите передний болт, 25.34 Disconnect the internal fasteners,
internal fasteners then remove the panel from the vehicle
крепящий боковую панель к корпусу
then remove the panel from the car {see автомобиля
illustration)
33. Unscrew the front bolt securing the side
Installation panel to the car body (see illustration)
24. Installation is in the reverse order of 34. Carefully pry and move the lower side
removal. Make sure all latches are latched panel away from the car body, disconnect the
and the rain seal is seated correctly and internal fasteners, then remove the panel
completely. from the car ( see illustration).
Luggage compartment upper

side panel
Removal 25.37b ...then remove the pin from the
25. Pry and remove the rain seal from the tailgate
rear door opening near the top panel 38. Carefully pry and move the side facing
26. Remove the facing cap then unscrew panel away from the rear of the hinged door
the upper mounting bolt of the rear seat belt and unhook the internal plastic clips (see
( see illustration) illustration)
27. Lift the facing cap over the slot for the 39. Follow the procedures described in
seat belt in the panel and disconnect it from 25.37a Press the center part of the rear
paragraphs 37 and 38 to remove the panel
the belt (see illustration) parcel shelf lifting pin...
on the other side
28. Remove the interior light from the side Installation
panel and disconnect the wiring connector.
29. Carefully pry and move the top panel
order of removal. Make sure that all latches
away from the car body , disconnect the
are latched.
internal fasteners, then disconnect the seat
belt and remove the trim panel (see Tailgate trim panels Removal
illustration).
36. Unhook the rear parcel shelf cords from
Installation the lift pins.
30. Installation is carried out in sequence. 37. Working one side at a time, press down
reverse removal sequence. Make sure all on the center of the lift pin, then remove the
latches are latched and the rain seal is pin from the tailgate (see illustrations). It is
seated correctly and completely in place. likely that the central part of the pin will fall
Luggage compartment lower into the door cavity when the pin is removed.
If this happens, then after removing it from
side panel the front panel, the central part of the pin can
Removal be removed through one of the door
31. Remove the rear door sill trim as openings
described above.
32. Remove the tailgate lower trim panel as
described below.
Кузов и его оборудование п п • п 9
40. Starting at the bottom edge, carefully - handles, courtesy lights, sunroof (if Removal
move the center of the panel away from the equipped), pillar trim panels, and associated
1. On models with a manual transmission,
flip door by unhooking the inner plastic clips
panels. The waterproof seals of the doors,
unscrew and remove the handle from the
(see illustrations) 41. Once the clips are hatch, as well as all the corresponding gear shift lever (see illustration)
released, lift the panel up by unhooking the screws and fasteners must also be removed. 2. On models with an automatic -
top mounting pins from the brackets on the After releasing the headliner, loosen the transmission, release the selector lever trim
flip door. adhesive joint of the central panels using a from the clips and remove it from the base of
Installation hair dryer and a spatula, starting from the the lever (see.
42. Installation is carried out in sequence. front and moving towards the rear.
reverse removal sequence . Make sure all 48. During subsequent installation, the
latches are latched central panels of the headliner should be
bonded to neoprene adhesive. This can be
Tailgate lower trim panel purchased online.
Removal
the rear door opening near the bottom panel
(see illustration) 44. Unscrew the bolts
securing the panel to the floor of the luggage
compartment (see illustration)
45. Carefully pry and lift the panel up,
25.40b ...unhooking the internal plastic clips
unhooking its latches, then remove the panel
from the car (see illustration)
25.40a Starting at the bottom edge, carefully

move the center of the panel away from the
hinged door...
25.45 Carefully pry the panel up and unhook

25.38 Carefully pry and move the side trim its latches
panel away from the hinged door and unhook
the internal plastic clips
25.44 Unscrew the bolts securing the panel

to the floor of the luggage compartment
25.43 Pry up and remove the rain seal from

the rear door opening near the lower panel
Installation
order of removal. Make sure all latches are 26.1 On models with a manual transmission,
latched and the rain seal is seated correctly unscrew and remove the handle magazines
and completely in place. from the gear shift lever . The glue should be
applied to the mating surfaces of the central
Ceiling panels that were previously marked during
Note: Removing a ceiling without damaging it removal. Carefully position the headliner
requires considerable experience and skill. against the roof and install all components
Therefore, it is better to entrust this work to a removed during removal. Finally, clean the
qualified specialist or to carry it out at a headliner with soapy water or white spirit.
company service station. General principles
and a brief overview of the procedure for the 26 Center console -
home mechanic are given below. removal and installation th?
47. The ceiling is attached with clamps and

glued to the roof of the car. Before removing
the headliner, remove the sun visors,
1 п • го Кузов и его оборудование
26.2a On models with an automatic - 2.3 Carefully pry and remove the
transmission, release the selector lever trim 2.2 b ...and remove the trim from the handbrake lever trim from the center console
from the clamps... base of the lever
2.4 a Pry up and remove the lower front 27 Front console components - then lift it up by unhooking the rear mounting
trim panel at the base of the instrument removal and installation tabs (see illustration).
panel... Installation
illustrations) 4. Installation is carried out in sequence
3. Carefully use a small screwdriver to pry Universal display cover
up and remove the handbrake lever trim from
the center console (see illustration) Removal
4. Carefully pry and remove the lower front 1. Apply tape to the area in front of the
trim panel at the base of the instrument display to protect the face console.
panel, then remove the two accessible
screws (see illustrations)
5. Remove the trim from the rear of the
center console and unscrew the rear locking
nut of the console, which is accessible (see
illustration)
6. Lift the console and disconnect the wiring
from the switches located in the console (see 27.2b ...and squeeze the inner plastic locking
illustration). tabs
7. Lift the console, passing the handbrake
lever through it, and remove it from the car
27.2a Insert a flat plastic spatula under the
Installation bottom edge of the universal display trim
order of removal. 26.5 Remove the facing onto the masonry
26.4b ...then unscrew the two screws and unscrew the rear lock nut of the console
(marked with arrows) that became 2. Insert a flat plastic spatula or similar tool
accessible under the bottom edge of the trim and
squeeze the inner plastic retaining tabs (see
illustrations)
3. Pull the bottom edge of the trim forward,
26.6 Приподнимите консоль и отсо- 27.3 Потяните нижний край облицовки

едините проводку от выключателей, вперед, затем поднимите его, от- 27.5 Откройте бардачок и снимите
расположенных в консоли цепляя задние установочные выступы крышку блока предохранителей
Кузов и его оборудование п п • п 9
27.7 Squeeze the ends of the glove

27.6 Slide the pivot pins of the glove
compartment lid guides and remove them 27.8 Unscrew the five screws and remove -
compartment lid towards the center of the lid,
from the grooves in the front console the glove box from the front console
removing them from the front console ,
reverse the removal sequence
Glove compartment
Removal
5. Open the glove compartment and
remove the fuse box cover (see illustration)
6. Slide the pivot pins of the glove
compartment lid toward the center of the lid,
removing them from the front console (see
illustration).
7. Squeeze the ends of the glove 27.10 Unscrew the two screws (marked with 27.11 Unhook the lower mounting lug
compartment lid guides and remove them arrows) securing the lower lining of the (marked with an arrow) on the steering
from the grooves in the front console (see clamps on the steering column (see column
illustration). Remove the cover. illustration)
8. Unscrew the five screws and remove the
Installation Dashboard
glove box from the front console. Detach the
air duct using the access that opens after
13. Installation is carried out in the reverse 17. See Chapter 12
order of removal.
removing the glove box (see illustration) Face console assembly
Installation Bottom front panel Note: Removing the front console of the -
9. Installation is carried out in the reverse console from the side console is a complex procedure that entails
order of removal the removal of many components and
driver
Steering column trims assemblies, as well as disconnecting many
Removal Removal electrical wiring connectors. Mark the original
14. Carefully pry the top edge of the panel locations of disconnected wiring or attach
10. Unscrew the two screws securing the
bottom cover (see illustration) away from the front console to release the tags to the connectors to avoid confusion
two top tabs (see illustration). during reassembly.
11. Unhook the bottom trim from the -
mounting tabs on the top trim. then slide the 15. Press the tab of the installation pin from
lower trim back to release the lower mounting under the panel and remove the panel from Removal
tab on the steering column (see illustration) the front console (see illustration) 18. Disconnect the battery (see Chapter
12. Lift the top cover and connect its inner Installation 5A)
part from the two 16. Installation is carried out in the reverse 19. Move the front seats back as far as
order of removal. possible. Set the steering wheel to a straight
position and lock the steering column lock 20.
Remove the front console blocks as
described above in this subsection:
27.12 Disconnect the top lining from the 27.14 Gently pry the bottom panel away 27.15 Press the tab of the installation pin
clamps (marked with arrows) on the steering from the face console to release the two top from under the panel
column tabs
и» 2г Кузов и его оборудование
27.25a Push the heater/fan control panel

27.24a Push out the accessory 27.24b ...to release the locking tabs (marked from the top to disengage the upper
compartment ... with an arrow) on the sides mounting tabs...
27.25b ..then pull it up, unhooking the lower (marked with arrows), then remove the
27.26 Выкрутите два болта (отмечены
tabs (marked by arrows) reinforcing bracket
стрелками), крепящие шину заземления
27.27 Unscrew the lower bolt and upper nut
a) Glovebox. face console from its original position and
system.
b) Steering column pads. move it back. When the appropriate play is
c) Two screws under the
c) Driver's side lower bezel achieved, disconnect all wiring connectors
heater/fan control panel.
21. Remove the center console as from the front console, noting their original
29. Pry up and remove the trim panels on positions. Mark the position of the wiring
the sides of the front console
22. Remove the steering column as harness and
23. Remove the following components as
described in Chapter 12:
a) Dashboard.
b) Audio system.
c) Passenger airbag .
24. Once you have access through the
audio opening, push out the accessory
compartment to release the locking tabs on
the sides (see illustrations)
27.28a Unscrew two screws and one bolt
25. Push the top of the heater/fan control to
(marked with arrows) in the dashboard
disengage the top mounting tabs, then pull it 27.286. . .two screws (marked with arrows )
opening
up to disengage the bottom tabs (see in the opening for the audio system...
illustrations) Move the control panel forward
and rest it on the support brackets at the front
of the heater.
26. Unscrew the two bolts securing the
grounding bus in front of the gearbox
selector housing (see illustration )
27. Unscrew the lower bolt and upper nut,
then remove the reinforcing bracket from the
base of the front console (see illustration).
28. Unscrew the panel fasteners in the
following locations (see illustrations) 27.28с ...and two screws (marked with
27.29a Pry up and remove the facing panels
a) Two screws and one bolt in the arrows) under the heater/fan control panel on the sides of the front console...
and unscrew two mounting bolts on each
dashboard opening.
side (see illustrations).
b) Two screws in the opening for the audio
30. With the help of an assistant, move the
Кузов и его оборудование 11» 23
free it from various clamps and clamps.

31. Make sure everything is properly and
completely disengaged and repositioned,
then remove the center console from the
vehicle.
Installation
order of removal. Make sure that the
electrical wiring is connected correctly and
that fasteners and connections are securely
tightened. 27.29b ... and unscrew two mounting bolts
(marked with arrows) on each side
l l • aa For notes
Chapter 12
Body electrical equipment
Content
general information .................................................................. 1 Electric motor and windshield wiper mechanism - removal and
Detection of faults in electrical circuits - general information .. 2 installation ............................................................................... 14
Fuses and relays - general information 3 Rear wiper motor
Switches removal and installation ............................................. 4 folding door - removal and installation . 15
External light bulbs replacement ............ 5 Washer system components - removal and installation 16
Interior light bulbs - replacement. 6 Components of the external Audio system - removal and installation 17
lighting system - Speakers - removal and installation ............... .. 18
removal and installation . ...................................... 7 Radio antenna - removal and installation ................................. 19
Adjusting the position of the headlights - general information ..... Engine immobilizer and anti-theft alarm system general
....................................................... . . .............. 8 information . ............................................................................. 20
Dashboard - removal and installation. .................... 9 Airbag system
Clock/universal display - removal and installation ,0 Cigarette general information and warnings 21
lighter/auxiliary socket Airbag system components - removal and installation ........... 22
removal and installation .......................................................... 11 Integrated Interface System Control Unit/Fuse Box - General
Sound signal - removal and installation . 12 Information, Removal and Installation 23
Windshield wiper lever - removal and installation .. 13
Are common
System type . 12 Volts with negative wire to ground
Lamps Power Consumption
Direction indicators .................................................... .. .............. 21
Turn signal repeaters............................................ . .................... 5
Front fog lights.................................................. .......................... 55
Front side lights ................................................................. . 5
Headlights High beam lamps ............................. ........................... 55
Low beam lamps ...................... ............................... . . 55
High brake light ... ................. 16
Interior lights ................................................................................ 5
Trunk light ................................................................................... 5
License plate light ............................................................... .... 5
Rear fog lights ................................................ ............................ 21
Reversing light..................................................................... 21
Brake light/tail light ...................................................................... 21/5
Back light .. .. ................................. ....... 5
Airbag control unit lock nuts .................... ........................... 8
Most of the body's electrical systems are are connected through the “vehicle” part of
controlled by associated electronic control the network
units, which in turn are controlled by a main The control unit operates based on data
control unit called the integrated interface received directly by itself and transmitted
system. The various control units and the over the network from other units. Due to the
Warning: Before working with parts of main unit communicate with each other via a presence of a common network, several units
A the vehicle 's electrical system, read the
warnings in the "Safety First " paragraph.
multiplex network. The multiplex network is a
two-wire system that connects the main unit
can control one system. In addition, one unit
can control the operation of several systems
at the beginning of this Guide and Chapter with the other units. Manufacturers divide the in autonomous mode. The main block is
5A. network into “managed” and administrative in relation to the entire
The electrical system has a voltage of 12 "automotive" parts network, as well as
V with a negative wire at ground . A lead acid Essentially this means that the main -
battery is used as a power source . generator control unit and the units that control the
rechargeable climate control, security and other systems
directly controls the operation of some station with appropriate equipment.
systems The main unit can diagnose all This chapter describes the repair and
systems. Thus , any fault existing in the maintenance of various electrical -
network can be detected through the components and
appropriate diagnostic equipment included in
a special connector on the vehicle . If there is
a fault in the network, contact your
representatives manufacturer or a service
12 • а Электрооборудование кузова
systems not related to the engine main types of faults : open circuit and short
Information regarding the battery, ignition circuit.
system , generator, and engine starter is 7. If the circuit is broken, the component is
contained in (chapter 5A disconnected from the power source or
Before working on any electrical ground. In any case, it will not work.
equipment, disconnect the cable from the 8. Circuit shorts are usually caused by
negative terminal of the battery to prevent a faulty wiring insulation that allows a wire to
short circuit or fire (see Chapter 5A). touch another wire or housing. A short circuit
will usually blow out the fuse in the -
2 Detection of faults in electrical associated circuit.
circuits - general information Note: To prevent excessive battery
discharge, certain electrical functions are
Note: Before you begin , read the warnings in automatically turned off 30 minutes after the
the “Safety First ” section and Chapter 5A. engine is stopped. Take this into account
The procedures described in this Chapter
when diagnosing your vehicle's electrical
concern only the main electrical circuits and
system.
should not be used to test electronic circuits,
especially those related to the electronic
Automatic shutdown equipment
control unit (see subsection 1). Windscreen wipers.
Electric windows. Power sunroof.
Basic information Interior lighting.
1. A typical electrical circuit consists of Audio system.
electrical components: switches, relays, After the specified period of time has elapsed
motors, fuses or circuit breakers, wiring, and , the control unit cuts off the voltage from
connectors that connect the components to the circuits of the listed equipment. To
each other and to the battery and chassis. resume its operation, you must start the
wiring diagrams. engine.
2. Before troubleshooting an electrical The unit can also interrupt some circuits
circuit, study the appropriate wiring diagram depending on the state of charge of the
and gain a complete understanding of the battery ( heater , heated rear window).
components included in the circuit. When performing diagnostics, make sure
Troubleshooting can be made easier by that the battery is fully charged .
making sure that other components in the
circuit are functioning properly. If multiple Open Circuit Detection
components or circuits fail at the same time, 9. To detect an open circuit, connect one
the problem may be related to the fuse or lead of the tester or the negative lead of a
ground wire. voltmeter to the negative terminal of the
battery or one of the ground points.
3. Failures in electrical circuits usually
10. Connect the second tester lead to the
result from simple causes such as poor
connector in the circuit being tested,
connector contacts, poor grounding, a failed
preferably the one closest to the battery or
fuse, or a faulty relay. Before you begin
fuse . At this point, battery voltage should be
testing circuit parts, inspect the condition of
present if the battery or fuse wire itself is not
all fuses, wires, and connectors in the faulty
damaged ( keep in mind that some circuits
circuit. Use wiring diagrams to determine the
are closed when the ignition switch is in a
order in which the circuit should be tested.
certain position)
4. Basic tools for troubleshooting electrical
11. Turn on the circuit, then connect the
circuits include a tester or voltmeter (a 12-volt
tester lead to the location closest to the area
test light may also be used for some tests), being tested.
an ohmmeter (to check the circuit for open 12. If voltage is present (or the test light is
wires); battery, jumper wire, preferably fused, on), this means that the section of the circuit
which can be used to bypass the wires or between the corresponding connector and
electrical components being tested. Before the test point is operational.
working with the instruments, study the wiring 13. Continue checking the circuit in the
diagram to determine the points at which any same way
measurements should be made. 14. When the point at which there is no
5. To find the source of an intermittent - voltage is determined, the fault will be located
electrical wiring fault (usually due to a poor between this point and the previous tested -
connection or damaged electrical wiring point . Check this section of the circuit to
insulation), you can simply move the wires. If, determine if there is a problem.
when the wires move, the contact in the
circuit either disappears or appears; This Circuit short circuit detection
means that the source of the fault is located 15. Before testing a circuit for a short circuit
in this location of the electrical wiring. This , first disconnect the load from the circuit
verification method can be used in (load - components that consume power,
conjunction with any of the others described such as light bulbs, motors, heating
in the following subsections . elements, etc. )
6. In addition to poor contact, there are two
Электрооборудование кузова 12 • з
ohmmeter should show zero resistance ; if for a different current. The fuse rating is
not, check the ground connection as follows. written on its upper end. In addition, the color
22. If there is a suspicion that the of the fuse is determined by its rating. Refer
connection to ground is broken, disassemble to the accompanying illustrations and wiring
this connection, strip the contact point on the diagrams to determine the exact location of
body and the wire tip (or the mounting the fuses, their resistance and the
surface of the unit body) to metal. Remove all corresponding circuits protected (see
traces of dirt and corrosion by scraping off illustrations)
the paint with a knife. to ensure a clean Fuse color Denominat
metal-to-metal connection. Assemble the ion
Orange 5A
connection and carefully tighten the
Red 10A
fasteners; If the wire ends have ferrules,
3. To gain access to the front console fuses, Blue 15A
install serrated washers between the ferrule
remove the fuse box cover. Yellow 20A
and the housing to ensure a secure
16. Remove the appropriate circuit fuse connection. To prevent corrosion, lubricate Transparent or white 25A
and connect the tester or voltmeter leads to the outside of the connection with petroleum Green ZOA
the terminals of fuse 17. Turn on the circuit, jelly or silicone grease. 6. Never replace fuses more than once until
noting that some circuits close when the the cause of their failure has been eliminated.
ignition switch is in a certain position
3 Fusible
If the new fuse blows immediately, determine
18. If voltage is present (or the indicator fuses and relays - the cause of the blown before subsequent
light is on), this means that there is a short general information replacement; most likely a short to ground
circuit in the circuit due to broken insulation. If the fuse protects
19. If there is no voltage during this test but Fuses several circuits, try to determine the fault by
the fuse fails when the load is connected, this 1. The fuse serves to open the circuit when shorting each circuit individually (if possible)
indicates an internal fault in the load. a given current in it exceeds and prevent until the fuse blows. Always have a set of
failure as a result of the corresponding spare fuses in your car.
Ground fault detection components and wiring. Excess current can
20. The negative terminal of the battery is occur due to a short circuit in the circuit (see
connected to the “ground” - the engine - subsection 2)
gearbox - body block. For most electrical 2. The main fuses are located on the left
consumers, only the positive wire is suitable, side of the front console in the glove
and the body metal is negative. This means compartment (right-hand drive models) or
that the body mass is part of the circuit. behind the access panel (left-hand drive
Loose connections can therefore cause a models ). Additional fuses (including higher
partial or complete break in the circuit. In amperage fuses) are located in the relay/fuse
particular, lights may turn on dimly box in the engine compartment, on the left
(especially if another circuit is connected that side
shares the same ground point), motors 3. To access the fuses, open the glove
(windshield wipers or cooling fan) may rotate compartment (or remove the lower trim
slowly and the action of one circuit may have panel) and remove the fuse box cover. To
an effect on the operation of another. Please provide access to
note that many vehicles use flexible
grounding bars that connect to the body such
units that do not have direct metal contact
with it, such as. for example, an engine-
transmission unit mounted on rubber
cushions.
21. To check whether a component is well
grounded, disconnect the battery and
connect one lead of the ohmmeter to a point
with a good ground.
3.4 To remove fuses, use a special plastic

fuse puller in the engine compartment,
remove the cover from the fuse/relay box
(see illustrations ) The main fuses and relays
are located at the top of the block, and the
higher rated fuses are located at the bottom
of the block.
4. When replacing fuses, first de-energize
the corresponding circuit, then remove the
3.3 Additional fuses and relays located in the fuse from its clips (see illustration) The fuse
engine compartment in the fuse and relay wire should be visible. If the fuse is blown,
box this wire will be broken or melted
5. Always replace fuses with similar ones,
Connect the second ohmmeter lead to the that is, rated for the same current. Never
component point being tested. The install fuses to replace blown ones. designed
пг • а Электрооборудование кузова
different ratings: spare fuses of all ratings

must be secured in the fuse block
Relay
7. Most relay functions are included in the
functions of the built-in interface system
control unit (see subsection 23). The
remaining relays are located in the fuse box
in the engine compartment or in an additional
relay box located behind the front bumper on
the left. On certain models, the cooling fan
relay is located in the front panel above the Switch combination on the place it opposite the triangle on the switch
radiator body
8. If the faulty circuit or part of the system is steering column 2. Remove the
Note: When installing a new switch unit on a
controlled by a relay and the fault is driver's airbag as described in subsection 22. vehicle with electronic control programs, the
suspected to be the relay, turn on the system. 3. Remove the steering wheel as unit should be calibrated using appropriate
When a working relay is activated, you described in Chapter 10 diagnostic equipment. Entrust this task to the
should hear an actuating click. In this case, 4. Remove the upper and lower - manufacturer's representatives or a highly
the system malfunction may be caused by facing linings of the steering column, qualified specialist equipped with appropriate
parts or secondary wiring in the circuit. If the as described in subsection 27 equipment.
relay does not operate, then either the relay [section 11 5. Loosen the clamp securing the
is not receiving power, or the relay itself is switch block on the steering column, pry it up Switches located on the front
faulty. The test consists of replacing a faulty with a small screwdriver and remove the console
relay with a known good one. However, be clamp from the steering column, then remove
careful, because although the relays are the switch block (see illustration ) After Center mounted switches
similar in appearance, they may differ removing the switches, disconnect the three
9. These switches include switches
functionally wire connectors. installed between the air deflectors and any
9. Make sure before removing the relay. Caution: Be extremely careful not to damage side of the audio system. They are removed
that the corresponding circuit (or ignition) isthe switch latches . by pressing on their back sides from the back
turned off. The relay can simply be pulled out of the front console as follows
of the block and a new one inserted by 10. Remove the audio system as described
pressing on its body. in subsection 17
11. After reaching through the opening
Note : Before removing any switch,
under the audio system, remove the
disconnect the cable from the negative
accessory compartment (where it is installed)
terminal of the battery and reconnect it after
by squeezing the tabs on its sides
installing the switch (see Chapter 5A).
5. 5b ...and in the engine compartment in

the fuse/relay box
4.8 The slot on the rotating contact (A) must
be aligned with the triangle (B)
order of removal, but the airbag contact
10. a Location of fuses in the fuse box in assembly built into the switch block must be
the front console... correctly installed as follows
7. wheels are straight
4.5 Clamping bolt (marked with an arrow ) of
8. Check that the letter “O” is visible through
the switch block on the steering column the round inspection slot on the face of the
rotating contact (see illustration) When
4 Switches - viewing the letter “I” in the slot, turn the
rotating contact counterclockwise until the
letter “O” appears in the slot. If the letter “O”
is visible in the slot, turn the rotary contact
Ignition switch/ignition switch clockwise until the letter “O>- appears in the
1. See Chapter 10 slot. With the letter “0” visible in the slot,
Электрооборудование кузова 15 • 5
4.12a Push out the switches located between 4.16 Push out the side-mounted switches ,
the central air deflectors... 1. 12b ...and on the sides of the audio gaining access through the opening in the
system on the back of the front console front console
4.24a Squeeze the tab on the back of the

switch located on the center console...
4.24b ... and remove the corresponding - 4.27 Unscrew the nuts securing the sides of
12. Pull out the corresponding switch from switch the outer handle to the door switch from its
its location by disconnecting the wiring
location (see illustrations).
connector after removing the switch (see 17. Installation is carried out in the reverse
illustrations} order of removal.
order of removal
13. Installation is carried out in the reverse Heating/Ventilation Control
order of removal
Tailgate lock switch
18. Switches are an integral part of the
26. Remove the tailgate trim panel as
Side mounted switches heating/ventilation control panel and cannot
described in Chapter 11, subsection 25.
14. These switches include switches be replaced individually. If any switch is
27. Getting through the opening in the rear
installed near the steering column on the found to be faulty, the entire control panel
hinged door, unscrew the nuts securing the
driver's side. They are removed by pressing must be replaced. For more detailed
outer handle to the door on the sides (see
on their back sides from the back of the front information, refer to (chapter 3.
illustration)
console as follows Brake light switch 28. Disconnect the wire connector from the
15. Remove the lower trim panel on the 19. See (lava 9. lock, then unscrew the two inner nuts
driver's side, as described in (section 11, securing the outer handle to the door (see
subsection 27
Handbrake indicator switch
20. See (lava 9 illustration) Remove the tailgate handle.
16. Having reached through the resulting 29. Press the locking tabs with a small
opening in the front console, pull out the Interior light switch screwdriver and remove the lock switch from
corresponding switch from its location, 21. Interior lighting switches are an integral the outer handle (see illustrations)
disconnecting the wiring connector after part of door locks. Chapter 11 describes the 30. Installation is carried out in the reverse
removing the switch (see illustrations) removal and installation of door locks. order of removal
Luggage compartment light switch
22. This switch operates together with the
tailgate lock. Removing the lock is described
in Chapter 11
Switches located on the center
console
24. Using a small screwdriver, squeeze the
stud on the back of the corresponding switch
17. 8 Disconnect the wire connector from and push it out 4.29 Press the locking tabs and remove the
the lock, then unscrew the two inner nuts lock switch from the external handle
(marked with arrows}
5 Lamps of external lighting

devices - replacement
General information
1. When replacing lamps, consider the -
following points.
а) Remember that lamps can be very hot (if
they are changed immediately after
being switched on).
б) Always check the contacts of lamps and
sockets, making sure that there is clean
metal contact between the electrodes. 5.3а Поднимите зажим проводки.. 5.3Ь ...и снимите крышку фары
Before installing lamps, remove all traces
of corrosion or dirt. out (see illustrations). with the clamp.
c) When installing lamps with a bayonet 6. When handling a new lamp, touch the 15. Install components removed for
connector, make sure that the center - bulb by covering it with a clean cloth, access.
contact of the socket is firmly pressed avoiding touching it with your fingers;
against the lamp contact. moisture and skin oil can cause blackening Front fog lights 16. Open the cover at
b) Always make sure that the new bulb is the and rapid failure of such a lamp if you the base of the front wheel arch liner, located
same wattage as the one you are accidentally touch the glass of the bulb with directly under the fog lights.
replacing and that the surface of the bulb
your fingers. wipe it with pure alcohol. 17. Disconnect the wire connector on the
is completely clean: this especially headlight housing, then turn the housing
7. When installing a new lamp, make sure
applies to headlight and fog light bulbs counterclockwise to remove it (see
that its tabs fit correctly into the grooves on
(see below). illustrations)
the socket, then secure it with a clamp.
headlight 8. Install the headlight cover and secure it
with the clamp.
2. To improve access to the left headlight,
9. Install components removed for access
remove the battery cover, then remove the
air cleaner inlet ducts located behind the Front marker light
headlight as described in Chapter 4A or 4B,
depending on design 10. Follow the procedures described in
subsections 2 and 3
3. Having reached from behind the
11. Remove the cartridge from the back of
headlight, lift the clamp and remove the
the headlight (see illustration)
headlight cover (see illustrations)
12. The lamp has a plug-in connector and
4. Disconnect the wire connector from
can be removed by simply removing it from
corresponding lamp (see illustration ). High
the clamp (see illustration)
beam is an external lamp, and low beam is
13. Install the pump clamp and fix it. turn it
internal clockwise
5. Unhook the lamp clamp | you will take it 14. Install the headlight cover and secure it
5.4 Отсоедините разъем провода от

соответствующей лампы фары 5.5а Отцепите фиксатор лампы... 5.55 , .и извлеките лампу
5.17а Отсоедините разъем проводов

5.11 Извлеките патрон габаритного 5.12 Извлеките лампу с вставляю- (отмечен стрелкой) на кожухе проти-
огня из задней части фары щимся разъемом из зажима вотуманной фары...
5.19 Unfasten the lamp clamp and remove it 5.25a Turn the lamp socket counterclockwise
5.17b . then turn the casing counterclockwise from the fog lamp to remove it from the rear of the headlight
■ to remove it
5.29 Push the repeater assembly forward, 5.30a By turning the lamp socket
then remove it from the front fender counterclockwise, remove it from the back of
5.25b ..then remove the lamp with bayonet the headlight . then remove the repeater from
connector Front direction indicators the front fender (see illustration).
24. Follow the procedures described in 30. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise
18. Disconnect the wiring connector from
subsections 2 and 3 to remove it from the rear of the headlight.
the fog lamp pump
25. By turning the lamp socket The lamp has a plug-in connector and can be
19. Unfasten the end of the lamp clamp and
counterclockwise , remove it from the rear of removed by simply removing it from the
remove it from the back of the fog lamp (see
the headlight. The lamp has a bayonet clamp (see illustration) 31. Installation is
illustration) Remove the lamp
connector in the socket and can be removed carried out in the reverse order of removal
20. When handling a new lamp, touch its
by simultaneously pressing and turning
bulb by covering it with a clean cloth, Rear block headlight
counterclockwise (see illustrations).
avoiding touching it with your fingers;
26. Install the lamp socket and turn it 32. Open the tailgate and carefully lift and
moisture and oil on the skin can cause
clockwise to lock it in place. remove it from the headlight face cover.
blackening and rapid failure of such a lamp.
27. Install the headlight cover and secure it Unscrew the lock nut that is accessible (see
If you accidentally touch the glass of the bulb
with the clamp. illustrations)
with your fingers, wipe it with pure alcohol.
28. Install components removed for 33. Penetrating through the opening in the
21. When installing a new lamp, make sure
access. luggage compartment lining, unscrew the
that its protrusions fit correctly into the
lower locking nut of the headlight (see
grooves on the socket, then secure it with a Turn signal repeater illustration)
clamp. Connect the wiring connector.
22. Check the condition of the seal, then 29. Push the repeater assembly forward, 34. Remove the headlight from the car
releasing its rear body and disconnect the water connector
securely screw the housing to the rear of the
(see illustration).
headlight.
23. Connect the connector. Close the lid.
5.30Ь ..затем извлеките лампу с 5.32а Подденьте и снимите облицо- 5.32Ь ...и выкрутите стопорную гайку,
вставляющимся разъемом из зажима вочную крышку фары... к которой открылся доступ
m2 _________ _ ______________________ 5.35b ...and remove the lamp socket from the License plate light
42. Small flat
carefully pry up the end of the lens and
remove it. The lamp has a plug -in connector
and can be removed by simply removing it
from the । kima (see illustration)
order of removal. Make sure the lens is
securely installed in its location.
5.33 Penetrating through the opening in the
luggage compartment lining, unscrew the 6 Interior light bulbs - replacement
lower lock nut (marked with an arrow) of the
headlight
headlight general information
35. Carefully press the latches and remove Check the condition of the headlight housing 1. Refer to paragraph I of subsection 5.
seals and socket.
Car interior lighting
2. Carefully pry and remove the lens from
the flashlight with a small flat screwdriver
(see illustration)
3. The lamps have a plug-in connector and
can be removed by simply pulling them out of
the clamp (see Fig.
5.35а Аккуратно отожмите фиксато- High brake light

ры... 38. Open the tailgate and, using two
the lamp socket from the headlamp (see screwdrivers, press out the spring clamps of
illustrations) the light, penetrating through the inspection
36. All lamps have bayonet connectors. - holes in the tailgate (see illustration )
The corresponding lamp can be removed by
pressing and turning counterclockwise (see
illustration)
order of removal
5.39 Remove the lamp and disconnect the

wiring connector from the lamp socket
5.38 Using two screwdrivers, press out the

spring clamps of the high brake light
5.36 Remove the corresponding lamp with

bayonet clamp from the socket
5.42b ...and remove the lamp with the plug-

in connector from the lamp
5.42a Carefully pry the end of the license

plate light lens...
39. Remove the lamp from the outside and
disconnect the wiring connector from the
lamp socket (see illustration)
5.40 Remove the plug-in lamp from the the clamp (see illustration).
clamp 41. Installation is carried out in the reverse
5.34 Remove the headlight from the car body order of removal
and disconnect the wire connector
1. 2 Carefully pry and remove the small lens screwdriver...
with a flat screwdriver from the interior light

(illustration).
order of removal
Trunk light
5. Carefully pry up and remove the
flashlight from the side facing panel with a
small screwdriver and disconnect the wire
connector (see illustrations)
2. 5b ... and disconnect the power 6.6 Remove the plug-in lamp from the
the clamp (see illustration)
connector backlight
order of removal.
Illumination of the 11. Push up the top of the
Instrument panel lights heating/ventilation control panel heater/ventilation control panel. by releasing
8. The instrument panel and indicators on it its upper locking tabs, then lift the remote
9. Remove the audio system as described control, releasing its lower locking tabs (see
are illuminated by built-in diodes. in subsection 17
Replacement of diodes independent of the illustrations)
10. Getting through the opening under the 12. Unfold the remote control and use
instrument panel is not possible.
audio system. push out the accessory needle-nose pliers to remove the light bulb
Replacement of the instrument panel is
compartment by squeezing the locking tabs sockets by turning them counterclockwise.
on the sides (see illustrations) Remove
1. 3 Remove the appropriate plug-in lamp
6.5 a Carefully pry up and remove the
from the lamp
canopy from the side trim panel with a small
6.1 Oa When reaching through the 6.11а Расцепите верхние фиксационные

opening under the audio system, push out 6.2 Ob. .squeezing its fixing protrusions выступы пульта управления
the accessory compartment... (marked with an arrow) on the sides
отопителем/вентиляцией...
6.11 b then lift the remote control, 6.12 a Remove the control panel bulb plug-in connectors from the clamps
releasing its lower locking tabs (marked by sockets by turning them counterclockwise...
arrows) 6.12b ...then remove the light bulbs with
Mirror lighting in the sun visor 9. Adjust the headlights. referring to the
17. Carefully pry and remove the mirror - information given in subsection 8
and flashlight lens from the sun visor. Turn signal repeater
18. Remove the backlight bulb(s) from its
10. The procedure is described as part of
location(s).
the bulb replacement procedure in
7 Components of an external subsection 5
lighting system - About? Front fog lights
11. Open the cover at the base of the front
wheel arch liner, located directly below the
1. 15 Remove the multifunction display headlight fog lights.
bulb sockets, then remove the plug-in bulbs 1. Remove the front bumper (see Chapter 12. Disconnect the wire connector on the
from their clips headlight housing
11).
those of the light bulb terminals with plug-in 2. Unscrew the two lower mounting bolts 13. Unscrew the lower fastening bolt, then
connectors (see illustrations} securing the headlight to the car body ( see push the headlight forward from the bumper
13. Installation is carried out in the reverse illustration}. ( see illustration)
order of removal 3. To remove the headlight from the front 14. Installation is carried out in the reverse
fender, use a small screwdriver to lift the order of removal
Multifunction display backlight upper mounting lug (see illustration) Rear block lights
14. Remove the display as described in 4. Remove the headlight from the front
fender and disconnect the wiring connector 15. The procedure is described as part of
subsection 10
15. Remove the light bulb sockets by - from it (see illustration)
subsection 5.
turning them counterclockwise. Remove the 5. Unfold the headlight and securely
light bulbs with plug-in connectors from the connect the wiring connector to it. High brake light
clamps (see illustration) 6. Position the headlight in its opening,
making sure that its rear mounting lug is 16. The procedure is described as part of
Switch lighting properly engaged with the groove on the
subsection 5.
16. All illuminated switches have built-in fender (see illustration)
7. Install and tighten the headlight mounting License plate light
LEDs, which are an integral part of them.
bolts.
LEDs cannot be replaced independently. 17. Reject a little carefully
8. Check the effect of the headlight, then -
therefore, the entire switch must be replaced
(see subsection 4) install the front bumper
18. Unscrew the two lower mounting bolts 19. Remove the headlight from the front
7.3 Для снятия фары с переднего крыла,
(marked with arrows) securing the fender and disconnect the wiring connector
приподнимите небольшой отверткой
headlight to the car body from it
верхний установочный выступ
20. Make sure the rear headlight mounting 7.17 Carefully pry and remove the license
tab (marked by arrow) is properly engaged 7.13 Unscrew the lower mounting bolt plate light from the tailgate and disconnect -
with the groove on the fender. the wire connector
(marked with an arrow), then slide the
headlight forward from the bumper
the metal socket with the latches on the

plastic one, then snap it into position.
6. Place the light onto the metal socket
and snap it into the plastic part.
7. Make sure the cigarette lighter assembly
is assembled correctly, then install the
center console
12 Beep -
9.2 Carefully separate the glass from the Installation

frame panel , pry and remove the light from Removal
the tailgate and disconnect the wire 1. The signal is located behind the front
order of removal.
connector (see illustration) bumper on the left
18. Connect the wiring connector and insert 10 Clock/universal display - 2. Remove the front bumper as described
/
the light into its location removal and installation in Chapter 1 1.
3. Disconnect the wire connector(s), then
8 Adjusting the position of the unscrew the mounting nut and remove the
headlights - Removal signal from the car (see illustration )
general information 1. Make sure the ignition is turned off
2. Remove the multifunction display bezel Installation
1. Precise adjustment of the headlight as described in (chapter 1 1. subsection 27 4. Installation is carried out in the reverse
beams can be done with special optical 3. Unscrew the two fastening screws, order of removal
equipment. Therefore, perform this operation remove the display from the front console
at a specialized service station or a qualified and disconnect the wire connector (see 13 Windshield wiper lever -
specialist. illustration ) removal and installation 5^
2. On models equipped with a headlight
leveling system, make sure. that the Installation Note : The windshield wiper arm has a very
regulator switch is set to position “O” before 4. Installation is carried out in the reverse tight fit on the spindle and may require a
installing the headlights. order of removal special puller to remove it.
9 Dashboard - 11 Cigarette lighter/additional Removal
removal and installation socket - removal and installation 1. Turn on the engine and wipe the
windshield
Removal
Removal 1. Remove the center console as
1. Disconnect the battery as described in Chapter 1 1.
described in Chapter 5A 2. Carefully unhook the retaining clips and
2. Carefully separate the dashboard slide the light from its base, being careful not
glass from the framing trim (see to disturb the electrical contacts.
illustration) 3. Remove the cigarette lighter, then
3. Unscrew the three fastening screws and squeeze the latches and push out the metal
remove the instrument panel from the front auxiliary socket. Now you can remove the
console (see illustration) plastic outer part from the console.
4. Disconnect the wiring connectors and
9.3 Unscrew the three fastening screws -
Installation
(marked with arrows) and remove the 4. Align the protrusion of the plastic outer
instrument panel from the front console; component with the corresponding groove
and insert it into the console.
remove the instrument panel
5. Align the contact of the lamp clamp on
10.3 Выкрутите два винта (отмечены

стрелками) крепления обрамления 12.3 Монтажная гайка (отмечена 13.1 На ветровом стекле имеется так-
многофункционального дисплея и из- стрелкой) звукового сигнала же установочная метка рычага стек-
влеките дисплей из лицевой консоли лоочистителя (отмечена стрелкой)
Installation
order of removal
15 Tailgate wiper motor -

Note : New rivets will be needed during

assembly.
13.2 Снимите колпачок гайки шпинделя 14 Electric motor and windshield Removal
рычага стеклоочистителя, затем wiper mechanism - 1. Make sure the ignition is turned off
отверните и снимите гайку removal and installation 2. Remove the windshield wiper arm
Yes, then turn it off so that the lever returns as described in subsection 13
to its original position. Place the adhesive 3. Remove the facing panel behind -
Removal
tape next to the windshield wiper blade. to the hinged door, as described in
1. Remove the air intake grille as described Chapter 11, Subsection 25.
avoid errors during assembly, there is also an
in Chapter 1 1. 4. 8mm drill, carefully drill out the heads of
installation mark on the windshield (see -
2. Remove the insulator and unscrew the the rivets securing the wiper motor bracket to
illustration)
nut securing the windshield wiper the tailgate (see illustration)
2. Remove the cap of the windshield wiper
mechanism to the car body (see
arm spindle nut, then unscrew and remove Caution: When drilling out rivet heads, be
illustrations).
the nut (see illustration ) careful not to damage the motor and tailgate.
3. Unscrew the two bolts securing -
3. Lift the wiper off the glass and pull the
the windshield wiper mechanism on 5. After removing the three rivets,
lever off the spindle. If the lever is very tight
the other side of the car to its body (see - disconnect the wiring connector and remove
on the spindle, use a suitable puller.
illustration). the electrical
4. When removing the wiper arm from the
4. Remove the electric motor and -
tailgate, remove the motor spindle gasket
windshield wiper mechanism assembly from
after removing the arm (see illustration).
the panel under the windshield and
Installation disconnect the wiring connector (see
illustration)
5. Make sure the splines on the spindle and
arm are clean and dry, then install the arm 5. To separate the engine and the -
onto the spindle, aligning the wiper blade with windshield wiper mechanism, pry and
the glued one. remove the mechanism rod from the crank
13.4 When removing the wiper arm from the lever hinge (see illustration)
tailgate, remove the motor spindle gasket 6. Unscrew the two bolts and remove the
using tape or a mark on the windshield. engine from the windshield wiper mechanism
6. Install and tighten the spindle nut securely, mount (see illustration).
then place the cap on the spindle.
14.26 ...затем выкрутите гайку (отме- 14.3 Выкрутите два болта (отмечены
14.2а Снимите изолятор... чена стрелкой), крепящую механизм стрелками), крепящие механизм
стеклоочистителя к кузову стеклоочистителя
автомобиля
14.4 Снимите электродвигатель и 14.6 Выкрутите два болта (отмечены

механизм стеклоочистителя в сборе и 14.5 Подденьте и снимите тягу меха- стрелками) и снимите двигатель с
отсоедините разъем проводки низма с шарнира рычага кривошипа крепления механизма
стеклоочистителя
Электрооборудование кузова л г • 13
15.4 Drill out the heads of the rivets (marked

with arrows) securing the wiper motor behind the right front fender. The windshield 15. Install the nozzle into the hood cover
bracket to the tailgate and tailgate glass receive washer fluid from it and connect the hose to it. The direction of
engine from the rear door. Be careful not to through a single pump. the jet from the nozzle is not adjustable
lose the engine mounting strut washers.
6. Remove the electric motor sealing
Washer reservoir Tailgate glass washer jet -
washer from the glass of the rear hinged 2. Loosen the right front wheel 16. Remove the upper brake light as
bolts. Raise the front of the car with a described in subsection 7.
door.
7. Remove any rivet residue from the motor jack and install axial supports ( see 17. Disconnect the washer hose from the
bracket/tailgate holes. Ensure that the “Lifting a car with kratom and installing nozzle, then remove the nozzle from the -
corresponding holes are completely clear of supports”) Remove the right front wheel. upper brake light housing by squeezing the
any rivet residue. 3. Remove the right front wheel arch two clips (see illustration) Remove the nozzle
8. The tailgate wiper motor is not supplied protection. The protection is secured to the O-ring
separately. If it breaks, you will have to layer with mass rivets. Push out or remove 18. Installation is carried out in the reverse
replace the entire assembly. their central pins, then pry up and remove the order of removal.
entire rivet. Remove the protection from
Installation 17 Audio system -
under the wheel arch.
9. Before installation, inspect the sealing 4. Pull the filler neck off reservoir 5. Note
washers and rubber bearings for wear or the correct original position of the washer
signs of damage. If necessary, replace the hoses (make marks on them if necessary),
appropriate components. then disconnect the hoses from the washer Note: The following procedure applies to the
10. Make sure that the seal on the glass is pump(s). car radios that came with the vehicle.
correctly positioned , as well as the rubber 6. Disconnect the wiring connector(s) from
supports and sealing washers in the motor the washer pump(s)
Removal
1. Make sure the car radio and ignition are
bracket. 7. Loosen and unscrew the upper lock nut
turned off
11. Pre-install the electric motor in its and the lower fastening bolt, then remove the 2. The car radio is installed by the
location, then rivet it with new rivets. reservoir from under the wing (see manufacturer in accordance with accepted
12. Connect the wiring connector to the illustrations) standards. To remove the radio, two special
motor, then install the tailgate trim panel. - 8. Installation is carried out in the reverse tools are required, which can be purchased
Turn the ignition on, then turn on the order of removal. Make sure the hoses are at most car stores. You can also make it
windshield wipers and stop them in the connected securely. Fill the reservoir and yourself
original position. check the system for leaks.
13. Install the windshield wiper arm. as
described in subsection 13. Washer pump
9. Follow the procedures in steps 2-6 and
disconnect the hose(s) and wiring connector
from the pump.
10. Place a container under the reservoir to
catch any washer fluid that spills when the
pump is removed.
11. Carefully remove the pump from the
reservoir and remove its O-ring. Clean up
any spilled liquid with
16.7b. and the lower fastening bolt ( marked
14. 17 Remove the jet from the high with an arrow) with water.
brake light housing by squeezing the two 12. Installation is carried out in the reverse
clips order of removal. Install a new O-ring if the
previously installed O-ring shows signs of
16.7a Loosen and unscrew the upper lock
wear and damage. Fill the reservoir and
nut (marked with an arrow) of the washer
check the O-ring for leaks.
reservoir...
16 Washer system components - Windshield washer jet

removal and installation 13. Open and lock the hood in this position
14. Disconnect the washer hose(s) from
1. The washer fluid reservoir is located the corresponding jet, then squeeze the clips
and remove the jet
12 • Электрооборудование кузова
3. .3 Insert the tools into the holes on the

sides of the radio and remove it from the front Removal obtain a new one from the manufacturer.
console; the required tools are made of 3 mm Provide the confidential card and all existing
1. The antenna is attached with a screw in
wire (for example, from a welding electrode) keys to the manufacturer's representatives.
the base and can be easily removed
3. Insert the devices into the holes on the You will be provided with a new key and will
2. To remove the antenna assembly, open
sides of the radio until they snap into place. reprogram all keys with a new security code,
the tailgate, then release the door seal
Now the car radio can be removed from the this will render the lost key useless.
from its recess. To gain access to the
front console (see illustration ) antenna nut, carefully release the rear Caution: Without a confidential card, it is
4. After removing the car radio, disconnect edge of the headliner. impossible to reprogram the immobilizer
the wire connectors and antenna from its rear 3. Disconnect the terminal clip, you system with a different code.
side, then remove the radio from inside the twist the nut and remove the antenna.
car When purchasing a used car, take
precautions and reprogram the immobilizer
Installation
Installation 4. Installation is carried out in the reverse
system with a new code. This will ensure that
5. Securely connect the wiring and antenna order of removal your own keys are the only keys capable of
connectors to the car radio, then slide it into starting the car.
the corresponding groove on the front 20 Engine immobilizer and anti- 4. Any problems with the mobilizer system
console, being careful not to catch the wiring theft alarm system - general should be resolved at a company service
between the radio body and the guides information station.
18 Speakers - Note : The following procedure applies to the Anti-theft alarm system
removal and installation systems supplied with the vehicle. 5. Most models covered in this manual are
equipped with an anti-theft alarm system as
Engine immobilizer standard equipment. Other models have the
Removal 1. An immobilizer system is supplied as system installed as an option. The alarm
standard equipment on all models. The system is automatically activated when
Speakers in the doors system is activated whenever the ignition key turned on
1. Remove the rear door front trim panel as is inserted/removed.
described in Chapter 11 2. The immobilizer system ensures that the
2. Using a 5 mm drill, drill out the rivets engine can only be started by using the
securing the speaker to the door (see Fig. original ignition key. The key contains an
illustration} electronic encoded chip. When the key is
3. Remove the speaker and disconnect the inserted into the ignition switch socket, this
contact clamps (see illustration) code is read by a ring sensor installed in the «•осты
Tweeters in the front console ignition switch housing. Then the signal from ЭКСПЕРТА
4. Carefully pry and remove the speaker the sensor is transmitted to the electronic
cover on the front console . then remove it control unit included in the vehicle control
along with the tweeter. Taking out the interface system (see subsection 23). The
speakers. disconnect the contact clamps block compares the received code with the
from them. specified value each time the ignition is
5. Rotate the speakers clockwise to release turned on. In case of inconsistency
them from the covers. 3. .3 Remove the speaker and disconnect
the contact clamps 1 and the key code and
Installation the code entered into the electronic unit. The
6. Installation is carried out in the reverse system turns off the fuel system, ignition
order of removal. Make sure . that the system or starter (depending on the design ).
cladding panels are securely fastened in their preventing unauthorized engine starting
locations 3. Along with other documentation, a new
18.2 Using a drill, drill out the rivets securing car is accompanied by a card with
the speaker to the door and correctly fit the confidential information. It contains a
edges of the seals. confidential code. which is necessary for
specialists of a branded service station to
19 Radio antenna -
removal and installation carry out any work on the immobilizer
system. Keep this card in a safe place in your
home. Never store this document in your
vehicle. If you lose your ignition key, you can
Электрооборудование кузова 1а • 15
it from the remote control and turns off when should be entrusted to the manufacturer's Warning: Airbags and their sensors
the doors are opened using the remote representatives as soon as possible. are sensitive to impact. If any
control. The system's sensors protect the - 6. On most vehicles, the passenger airbag component is dropped or
hood. rear folding door and side doors. Also has a switch located on the edge of the You hit it - replace this component.
inside the cabin, sensors are installed on the center console. This switch is operated by Warning: Before performing welding work,
sides that react to the presence of movement the ignition key and turns off the passenger disconnect the unit connector airbag system
in the cabin. airbag system (for example, if a child seat is control .
6. Details of the operation of the system are installed in the front), without turning off the Warning: Do not install a child seat
given in the Operating Manual For obvious side and driver airbags. When the passenger on the front passenger seat.
safety reasons. details of the system airbag is turned off, the corresponding light without turning off the passenger
operation are not given in this manual on the dashboard lights up continuously airbag (see point 6).
7. If problems arise in the alarm system, Warning: Before Warning: Manufacturers
you should contact the manufacturer’s Before working on the airbag system, - recommend replacing airbag
representatives to resolve them. connect the cable from the negative terminal system components safety once
of the battery (see Chapter 5A) every 10 years.
21 Airbag system - general information
and warnings and wait at least 2 minutes.
Remove the center console (see 22 Airbag system
Chapter 11), then remove the latch components - AI
1. Driver and passenger airbags, front side and disconnect the system's main removal and installation
airbags and rear airbags are installed on all connector. After finishing work, connect the
models as standard equipment, control unit and reinstall the center console. Warning: Before
2. The airbag system is activated in the Make sure that no one is inside the vehicle When working on airbag components,
event of a severe frontal collision, the and connect the battery, then open the familiarize yourself with the precautions
severity of which exceeds a predetermined driver's door and, without getting into the precautions given in subsection 21.
limit and is in a specific direction. The airbags vehicle, turn on the ignition while checking
inflate within a few milliseconds (between the the airbag system status lamp. Driver airbag
driver and the steering wheel and between Warning: Do not expose the areas on the Removal
the passenger and the fascia) This reduces vehicle body around the sensors. impact
the risk of injury to the upper body from the 1. Disconnect the battery
system, as this may cause the airbags to
steering wheel / front panel. After activation, (see (section 5A). Remove the center
deploy .
the airbags immediately deflate. The control console (see (section 1 1), then squeeze the
Warning: Please note that airbags should not
unit also controls the front seat belt latch and connect the wire connector(s) from
be heated to temperatures exceeding 100'C.
tensioners, which are activated the airbag system control unit (see illustration
After removing the airbag, place it in a safe
simultaneously with the airbags (see (section 22.13)
place where there is no risk of fire.
11) 2. Insert screwdrivers into the holes on the
Warning: Do not allow solvents to
3. Side airbags are installed in the sides of the steering wheel, compress the
come into contact with cushion
backrests of the front seats. Each side airbag inner spring clips, and at the same time pull
components.
has its own sensor installed on the car body. the airbag assembly away from the steering
security. Remove them immediately with a
Side airbags operate independently of each wheel, releasing it (see illustration).
clean, damp cloth.
other. 3. Squeeze the retaining clip, then -
4. Rear airbags are installed behind the B- disconnect the airbag wire connector and the
pillars on each side in the passenger horn button ground (see illustration).
compartment.
5. Each time the ignition is turned on, the
airbag control unit performs a self-test. This
procedure takes approximately 6 seconds,
during which the system warning light on the
instrument panel illuminates. After
completing the self-diagnosis, the warning
light should go out (if the passenger airbag
was not turned off - see point 6). If the
warning light does not go out or turns on
randomly when the vehicle is moving, there
is a malfunction in the system. Checking the 22.3 Squeeze the retaining clip, then
system and eliminating the malfunction disconnect the airbag wire connector
22.2 Compress the inner spring clips and at

the same time pull the airbag assembly
from the steering wheel
22.10 Отсоедините разъем проводов и 22.13 Отсоедините разъем(ы) проводки

22.9 Выкрутите три болта (отмечены снимите узел подушки с лицевой от блока управления воздушной
стрелкой), крепящих подушку консоли подушки
grace) Remove the airbag assembly tightened airbag removal/installation.
Warning: Do not hit or drop the airbag 12. The rest of the installation is carried out
Rear side airbags
A assembly . Store the unit with the work
surface facing up.
in the reverse order of removal. Finally,
securely connect the airbag control unit wire
connector(s). Install the center console (see
19. Removal and installation of the rear
side airbag should be performed by a
Installation Chapter 11) Make sure that there is no one qualified technician or manufacturer's
4. Connect the wire connectors securely in the cabin and connect the battery With the representative. The headliner will need to be
and place the airbag assembly into the driver's door open, turn on the ignition from partially removed to provide access required
steering wheel, making sure that the wiring is outside the car and check the operation of for airbag removal/installation
not pinched between the steering wheel and the airbag status lamp.
the airbag assembly interface system control unit /fuse
5. Install the airbag assembly into its Airbag control unit Removal box - general information, removal and
location by pressing until the latches click into
13. Disconnect the battery and wait for at installation
place. least two minutes. Remove the center
6. Connect the air bag control module console (see Chapter 11), then squeeze the general information
connector(s) securely . Install the center latch and disconnect the wiring connector(s)
console {see Chapter 11) Make sure that no 1 . The Integrated Interface System control
from the airbag control unit (see illustration) unit is an electronic unit that controls many
one is in the cabin and connect the battery. 14. Unscrew the lock nuts, then remove the
With the driver's door open, turn on the functions typically controlled by separate
control unit from the car control and relay modules. It is located on the
ignition from outside the vehicle and check
the operation of the airbag status lamp Installation left side of the front console below the fuse
15. Install the control unit after making - box. The Integrated Interface System control
Passenger airbag _ sure. that the arrow on the top of the block unit controls the following functions (not
Removal points to the front of the vehicle. Install the every function listed is available on all
7. Disconnect the battery and wait at least control block lock nuts and tighten them to models) .
two minutes. Remove the center console the specified torque. a) Direction indicators/ hazard warning
(see Chapter 11). then squeeze the latch and 16. Securely connect the air cushion lamps.
disconnect the wiring connector(s) from the control unit wire connector . b) Windshield/tailgate wiper motors .
airbag control unit (see illustration 22.13) 17. Install the center console (see Chapter c) Rear window defogger.
8. Remove the glove compartment as 11). Make sure that no one is in the cabin and C) Immobilizer system.
described in Chapter 11, subsection 27. connect the battery . With the driver's door f) Anti-theft alarm system.
9. Having reached through the glove open, turn on the ignition from outside the 1) Buzzer for turning on headlights and
compartment opening , unscrew the three vehicle and check the operation of the airbag ignition .
bolts securing the pillow (see illustration) status lamp. e) Central locking/locking, including remote
10. Disconnect the wire connector and control.
remove the pillow assembly from the front Front side airbags b) Door opening indicator.
console ( see illustration) 18. Removal and installation of the front 1) Timer for turning off interior lighting.
Installation side airbag should be performed by a ]) Audio alarm system for automatic
qualified technician or manufacturer's transmission.
11. Install the airbag assembly into the front
representative. The seat will need to be
console, making sure. that the wiring is
removed to provide access required for
correctly routed and the bolts are securely
2. If any of the above- mentioned functions
are violated, first of all check the condition of
the fuses. If their condition is not the cause of
the violation, provide the car to the
manufacturer's representatives for detailed
diagnostics.
Removal position. damage it.

6. Lower the back side of the block while
3. Disconnect the battery (see Chapter 5A) Installation
lifting its front edge, then remove the block
4. Referring to Chapter AND subsection ? from its location 8. Installation is carried out in the reverse
7, remove the glove compartment on the 7. Mark the original positions, then remove order of removal. Make sure . that the
driver's side (right-hand drive models) or the the clamps and disconnect the wiring connectors are connected securely. Note
lower trim panel of the front console on the connectors. Remove the Integrated Interface that the colors of the connectors match the
driver's side (left-hand drive models). System control unit from the vehicle. Note colors of the corresponding sockets on the
5. Turn the two white plastic clips 90* that there are several different types of embedded interface system control unit
counterclockwise, then pry up the fuse box connector locks. Carefully remove each -
and move it slightly away from its original connector accordingly. being careful not to
ТЕ • пв Электрические схемы СХЕМА Л
Fuse box
Точки заземления
11 На аккумуляторе ЕЮ Над задней правой колесной аркой
12 За левой фарой Е11 С левой стороны рычага ручного . ормоза
ЕЗ За левой фарой Е12 Слева на задней откидной двери
14 Основание левой передней стойки кузова Е13 Слева на переборке двигателя
15 Основание левой передней стойки кузова Е14 Справа в моторном отсеке
16 Середина левой передней стойки кузова Е15 Справа рычага ручного тормоза
17 Между задними сиденьями ЕЮ На левом крыле за аккумулятором
18 Основание правой передней стойки кузова Е17 Над задней левой колесной аркой
19 За левой фарой Е18 Справа аккумуля тора
Fuse box in the engine compartment
Circuit breakers Denominati Protected circuit
high on
resistance
ME 1 2O-ZOA Engine cooling
ME2 20-80L AB5
MRZ 20-80A AB8
HONEY 20-80L Peripheral electronic system
ME 5 20-80A Peripheral electronic system
ME6 20-80A Heated seats
ME7 20-80A Egnition lock
ME8 20-80A Power steering
E1 on 10* Diesel preheating, reversing lights, air conditioning
E2 15* Fuel pump
EZ 10A AB5
E4 YA Power steering, engine cooling, engine management system, cruise control
E6 15A Headlights
E7 20A headlight washer
E8 20A Control system, power steering
E9 15A Left low beam lamp
EY 15A Right low beam lamp
E11 10A Left high beam lamp
E12 10A Right high beam lamp
P13 15A Signal
E14 10A Windshield wiper washer/wiper
E15 ZOA Engine management system
EY ZOA Air pump
E17 ZOA Windshield wiper/wiper
EY 40A Heater blower
Peripheral Electronics Fuse Box
E1 on 15A Navigation system, diagnostic connector
E4 20A Switches on the steering wheel. clock, universal display, radio, automatic
Transmission
E5 15A Signaling
E6 YA Steering wheel sensors
E7 15A Rain sensor, alarm
EY 40A Heated rear window, heated mirrors
E11 15A Rear wiper
E12 ZOA Power windows, power mirrors and sunroof
E14 YA Steering wheel switches, airbag, radio
E15 15A Dashboard, radio, air conditioning
EY ANGRY central locking
E20 YA Right brake light
E21 15* Left brake light, high brake light
E22 ANGRY Additional 12-volt socket, cigarette lighter, interior lighting, radio
license plate light
СХЕМА П (ПРОДОЛЖЕНИЕ) Электрические схемы 12*19
Symbols on diagrams
Lamp actuator printed circuit
Switch Grounding point
Fuse/insert and fuse

rating
Pump/motor
Multi-contact/coupled
switch Wire color (brown with
black stripe) Номер блока
З
Shielded cable
Speaker
Diode Е
Movable contact Variable resistor
connection
Connecting wires Heater
Light-emitting diode
The dotted line 2 непредусмотренный цвет
indicates that the соединителя
Resistor highlighted element is 2Мг 1 Коричневый двухконтактный
part of an electronic соединитель
Solenoid valve
note
The power supply for the peripheral electronics system is shown in Diagram 2.
Therefore, in diagrams containing a peripheral electronic system, reference is made to diagram 2.
The power circuit of this automatic power circuit was not copied in each circuit for space reasons.
The primary method of identifying wires is by the circuit rating (embossed on each component or connection and listed on the diagrams)
and by the values printed on each wire designation. To relate the circuits to their location on the vehicle, locate the appropriate component
or connector and locate the wire(s) associated with the connector as shown in the diagram.
Caution: Not every wire, component, and connector designation has a rating due to missing data. To set this data, you should contact the
manufacturer's representatives. Note that the usual method of identifying wires by color does not apply - it all depends on the color of the
wires on your car.
Wiring diagrams
Diagram 1 Wiring Diagram Information
Diagram 2 Starting and charging systems, peripheral electronics and airbags
Scheme 3 ABYA, central locking, cigarette lighter and additional 12-volt socket
Diagram 4 Electric windows, signal, radio and CO player, electric drive and heated mirrors
Diagram 5 Washer/wiper, sunroof and heated rear window
Diagram 6 Engine cooling, power steering and cruise control
Diagram 7 Brake lights, fog lights, headlights, side lights and license plate lights
Diagram 8 Control indicators, reversing lights, interior lighting and headlight control
Diagram 9 Air conditioner
Diagram 10 Heater blower, instrument panel
12 • 20 Электрические схемы СХЕМА 2
Wire colors Symbols on the diagram

Иг черный 1. Battery 14. Impact sensor on the right side
В) бежевый 2. Fuse box in the engine compartment 15. Right rear airbag
Ве голубой 3. Egnition lock 16. Right airbag
Мг коричневый 4. Peripheral system 17. Passenger airbag deactivation indicator
6г серый 5. Generator 18. Passenger airbag
Уе - зеленый 6. Starter 19. Left rear airbag
V) зеленый/желтый 7. Diagnostic connector 20. Left airbag
Ог оранжевый 8. Switches on the steering wheel
На - розовый 9. Airbag assembly
Яд красный 10. Driver airbag * - Only for petrol models
V) - фиолетовый 11. Driver's seat belt tensioner ** - Only for diesel models
Ва - белый 12. Passenger seat belt tensioner
4п - желтый 13. Shock sensor on the left side
Starting and charging system Power supply for peripheral electronics system 2Yr
3 - SM01 (Og) 4
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650 (ZL) 18 6502A(Zp)
СХЕМА 3 Электрические схемы 12 • 21

- черный 1. Battery electrical networks
В) - бежевый 2. Fuse box in the engine compartment 29. Rear additional power socket
Ве - голубой 3. Egnition lock 30. Rear left door lock
Мт - коричневый 4. Peripheral system 31. Front left door lock
Сг - серий 7. Diagnostic connector 32. Rear right door lock
Уе - зеленый 21. Airbag assembly 33. Front right door lock
V) -зеленый/желтый 22. Front left wheel sensor 34. Tailgate lock
От оранжевый 23. Front right wheel sensor 35. Tailgate lock indicator
АБ - розовый 24. Rear right wheel sensor 36. Safety relay when a child is in the car
Яд - красный 25. Rear left wheel sensor 37. Switches to the right of the driver
VI - фиолетовый 26. Brake fluid level indicator 38. Door lock switch
Ва - белый 27. Cigarette lighter
Зп желтый 28. > additional socket is more harmful

Mg black 1 Battery 45. Right electroz1.-r» tl'
B] beige 2 Fuse box in the engine compartment 46. Radio
Ve blue 3. Ignition switch 47. Antenna
Mg brown 4. Peripheral system 48. CO player
SG gray 8. Switches on the steering wheel 49. Left rear speaker
\/e » eny 39. Left electric motor 50. Left front speaker
V] green/yellow g window regulator 51. Left speaker in the front console
Og orange 40. Left window switch 52. Right speaker in the front console
Az - pink 41. Electric motor right 53. Right front| YD EMIC
Hell is red window regulator 54. Right rear speaker
VI - purple. 42. Right window switch 55. Signal
Wa white 43. Electric mirror switch
^п - yellow 44. Left electric mirror
Radio and CO player
T
I
■M don't
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A 166g'G
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n 8. 8451V (Vd>O— 3451 (VI) ^_2

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СХЕМА 5 Электрические схемы л г • гз

черный 1. Battery
2. Fuse box in the engine compartment 62. Выключатель электролюка
В) бежевый 63. Обогрев заднего стекла
Ве голубой 3. Egnition lock
4. Peripheral system 64. Пульт управления отопителем
Мг - коричневый
Ог серый 8. Steering wheel switches
7е зеленый 56. Window washer motor
57. Washer pump
V] зеленый/желтый 58. Rain sensor
Ог оранжевый 59. Tailgate wiper motor
Аз розовый 60. Washer fluid level sensor
Ад красный 61. Electric current motor
VI] фиолето I
Ва белый
^п желтый

Мг 1. Battery 71. Clutch sensor system
В) - бежевый 2. Fuse box in the engine compartment Cruise control
Ве голубой 3. Egnition lock 72. Cruise control brake sensor
Мг коричневый 4. Peripheral system 73. Gas pedal position sensor
Ст - серый 7. Diagnostic connector 74. Brake light switch
Уе - зеленый 8. Steering wheel switches 75. Crankshaft speed sensor
V) зеленый/желтый 65. System Fan Relay 76. Throttle valve servomotor
Ог - оранжевый engine cooling 77. Cruise control switches
Й8 розовый 66. Engine cooling fan 78. Engine control unit
Ад красный 67. Engine Coolant Level Sensor
VI - фиолетовый 68. Power steering unit * - only for type KR/
Ва - белый 69. Power steering motor ** - only for type 8NU
Зп желтый 70. Power steering force sensor
Охлаждение бензиновых Cooling of gasoline engines with Усилитель руля
двигателей без air conditioning
кондиционера
Diesel Engine Cooling

Иг черный 1. Аккумулятор 81. Left headlight
В) бежевый 2. Блок предохранителей в моторном a) Side light
Ве голубой отсеке Замок зажигания Периферийная c) high beam
Мт коричневый 3. система Диагностический разъем c) low beam
Сг серый 4. Переключатели на руле Выключатель 82. Right headlight (same as item 81)
Уе зеленый 7. стоп-сигналов Левая задняя блок-фара 83. Left backlight
V] - зеленый • । 8. а) Подсветка задней откидной двери Ь) license plate
Ог оран» 74. Стоп-сигнал с) Противотуманный 84. Right backlight
Аз розовый 79. фонарь Правая задняя блок-фара (как п license plate
Ад красный 79) 85. High brake light
VI 86. Left front fog lamp
Ва белый 87. Right front anti-humane headlight
Зп - желтый 80.
Headlights, side lights, license plate lights
пг • ге Электрические схемы СХЕМА 8

Мг черный 1. Battery c) Low beam
В) - бежевый 2. Fuse box in the engine compartment 82. Right headlight
Ве - голубой 3. Egnition lock 88. Reverse signal switch
Мг коричневый 4. Peripheral system 89. Left side light
Сг серый 8. Steering wheel switches 90. Right side light
Уе зеленый 79. Left rear headlight 91. Alarm switch dangerous*
V ) a) Tailgate lighting 92. Interior lighting
зеленый/желтый c) Stop light 93. Illuminated mirror in the visor on the
Ог оранжевый c) Fog lamp passenger side
Рв розовый 94. the driver's visor
80. Right rear headlight (as in item 79) 95. Illumination in compartments for but
Рд красный 81. Left headlight
VI фиолетовый 96. sensor : • ■
a) Side light
Ва белый c) High beam
Лп - желтый

Мг черный 1. Battery 101. Air conditioner control panel
В] - бежевый 2. Fuse box in the engine compartment 102. Heater Blower Regulator
Ве голубой 3. Egnition lock 103. Heater blower motor
Мг коричневый 4. Peripheral system 104. Wheel speed sensor
Сг - серый
21. Airbag assembly 105. Air conditioner clutch
Уе зеленый
VI зеленый/желтый 75. Crankshaft speed sensor 106. Air servo motor I
Ог г I 78. Engine control unit
Аз - розовый 97. Evaporator temperature sensor
Ад красный 98. Air conditioner refrigerant pressure sensor without ABB
VI - фиолетовый 99. Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
Ва
100. Engine temperature sensor
Зп желтый
3 2 • 28 Электрические схемы СХЕМА Ю
110. Oil level sensor

Цвета проводов Обозначения на схеме 111. Oil pressure sensor
Мт черный 1. Battery 112. Seat belt sensor
В) бежевый 2. Fuse box in the engine compartment 113. Handbrake sensor
Ве голубой 3. Egnition lock 114. Liquid level sensor l
Мг ■'■?р.-1чн<-НЫЙ 4. Peripheral system 115. sensor ■ . - "awning"
Сг сорь? 8. Steering wheel switches 116. Yes ■ । ..■'..
Уе ■чиюн’.- 78. Engine control system unit
V] • 101. Air conditioner control panel
Ог оранжев» 102. Heater Blower Regulator
Й8 РОЗОВЫЙ 103. Heater blower electric motor
Ад красный 106. Air damper servomotor
V» - фиолетовый 107. Dashboard
Ва белый 108. Ignition key insertion sensor
□п желтый 109. Fuel pump with fuel level sensor
Dashboard 2ы" :
SM01 (O") AS01
(Op 26? * 166g 66g
VMY (Be) 2>VESE2 (Ve) -4-5
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thirty; 90122 (Vl
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Air conditioning for 8NU
74 engine
114
n ele th
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l 102
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442 (W)
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Control indicators
1bIg 296 (VI)—t
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6 b 433 (Zp) 433 (Salary) See diagram 9, Air conditioning - C -

6^^ = 8053 (O) tion with 'KN/ engine 16
WHO (IG) YuYg g

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Приложения п • Л
Subsection number Lifting and installing the car on supports .............................. P5

Dimensions and weights ..................................................... GN Tools and accessories ............................ . .......................... P6
Conversion factors ................................................................ P2 Checking the technical condition .... .............................. P8
Purchase of spare parts....................................................... PZ troubleshooting ............................................................. P13
Vehicle identification ............................................................. PZ Dictionary of technical terms ................................................ P22
Repair - general provisions ................................................... P4 Alphabetical index .......................... . P28
Dimensions and weights

Dimensions Overall length ............................. ...................................................... 3850 mm
Overall width (not including mirrors) ................................................................. .. 1667 mm
Full height (vehicle not loaded) .............................................................................................. 1519 mm
Wheelbase . . ........... ............................................... ....... .... 2460 mm
Distance between front wheels ............................................................................................ 1438 mm
Distance between rear wheels ............................................................................................... 1435 mm
Weight
Dry weight (without options): Gasoline models,
1 1 liter engine . ............................................. . .............. 1053 kg
1 4 liter engine
With manual transmission ...................................... . .............. .......................... 1080 kg
With automatic transmission................................................................ .................... 1114 kg
16 liter engine ...... .................................................................................................... 1133 kg
Diesel models 8 valve engine . .. . ......... ....... ................. ................... 1097 kg
16 valve engine ..................................................................................................... .... 1147 kg
Maximum loaded vehicle weight*
Gasoline models : 1 1 liter engine ................................ .. .......................................... 1463 kg
1 4 liter engine. With manual transmission .. ............................................................. 1470 kg
With automatic transmission ......................................................................... ... _ 1507 kg
1 6 liter engine ............................................................................................................. 1525 kg
Diesel models:
8 valve engine............................. .......................... ..... ..................................................... 1501kg
16 valve ...................................................................................................................... engine 1539 kg
Maximum weight of loaded vehicle with trailer*
Models with petrol engine 1 1 liter engine ......................................................................... 2113kg
1 4 liter engine:
With manual transmission ........................................................................................ 2370 kg
With automatic transmission . ... . 2407 kg
1 6 liter engine .................................................................... 2425 kg
Diesel models
8 valve engine ....................................................................................................... .. 2401 kg
Engine with 16 valves ................................... .. ...................................... 2439 kg
Maximum permissible trailer weight'*
Trailer without brakes 1 1 liter petrol engine ................................................................ 526 kg
1 4 liter petrol engine With manual gearbox . ........................................................... 540 kg
With automatic transmission ...... .............................................................................. 557 kg
1 6 liter petrol engine ................................................................................................ 566 kg
8 valve ........................................................................................................................ diesel engine 548 kg
Models with a diesel engine with 16 valves . 573kg
Trailer with brakes 1 1 liter petrol engine .................... ........ ........................................... 926 kg
All other models .......................... ................................. 1175kg
*Refer to the identification number of your vehicle to clarify its modification (see Appendix -Vehicle Identification-)
*' When towing, ensure that the combined weight of the trailer and vehicle does not exceed the listed maximum laden weight of the
vehicle and trailer.
п•г Переводные коэффициенты
Length(distance)
Inches(1p) X 25.4 = Millimeters (mm) x 0.0394= Inches (1p)
Feet (R) X 0305 = Meters (m) x 3,281 = Feet (I)
Miles X 1.609 = Kilometers(km) X 0.621 = Miles
Volume (capacity)
Cubic inches (ci w) X 16.387 = Cubic centimeters (cm3) x 0061 = Cubic inches (si 1p)
Imperial pints (1tr rG) X 0.568 = Liters (l) x 1 76 = Imperial pints (1tr rG)
Imperial quarts (|tr r!) X 1.137 = Liters (l) X 0.88 = Imperial quarts (1tr d!)
Imperial quarts (1tr r!) X 1.201 = American quarts (113ts() x 0.833 = Imperial quarts (1tr d!)
US quarts (113 dt) X 0.946 = Liters (l) x 1.057 = American quarts (03 r!)
Imperial gallons (1tr yes!) X 4.546 = Liters (l) x 0.22 = Imperial gallons (!trda!)
Imperial gallons (1tr yes1) X 1.201 = American gallons (118 yes!) x 0.833 = Imperial gallons (1trda1)
US gallons (113 yes!) X 3.785 = Liters (l) x 0.264 = US gallons (1)8 yes1)
Mass (weight)
Ounces (og) X 28.35 = Grams (g) x 0035 = Ounces (oh)
Pounds (1b) X 0 454 = Kilograms (kg) x 2.205 = Pounds (10)
Force
Ounce-force (OGT;) x0 278 = Newtons(N) x36 = Ounce-force (oh!;)
Pound-force (161.) X 4,448 = Newtons(N) x 0.225 = Pound-force (1bf,)
Newtons (N) X 01 = Kilogram-force (kgf) x 9 81 = Newtons (N)
Pressure
Pound-force per square inch X 0.070 = Kg-force per square x 14.223 = Pounds per square inch
(1ы/)п g ) centimeter (kgf/cm ? ) OY/sh')
Pound-force per square inch X 0068 = Atmospheres (atm) x 14.696 = Pounds per square inch
(1M/w 2 ) (1ы/' П? )
Fu|11 - force per square inch x 0.069 = Bars x 14 5 = Pounds per square inch
(1b(/|P g )
Pound-force per square inch X 6,895 = Kilopascals (kPa) x 0 145 = Pound-force per square inch
(1G>t/)p ) (1ы/1п g )
Kilopascals (kPa) X 001 = Kg-force per square x 98 1 = Kilopascals (kPa)
centimeter (kgf/cm*)
Millibar (mbar) X 100 = Pascals (Pa) x 0.01 = Millibar (mbar)
Millibar (mbar) X 0.0145 = Pound-force per square x 68.947 = Millibar (mbar)
inch (1ы/1п2)
Millibar (mbar) X 075 = mm of mercury (mmHg) x 1.333 = Millibar (mbar)
POWER
Horsepower(hp) X 745.7 = Watts (W) x 0.0013 = Horsepower (hp)
Speed
Miles per hour (mph) X 1 609 = Kilometers per hour (km/h) x 0 621 = Miles per hour (mph)
Purchase of spare parts
Spare parts can be purchased from many When purchasing spare parts, we advise paint, etc.
places, including branded car sales and you the following: Spare parts sold in similar
service stations, spare parts and related
Branded car sales and service stations
products stores, and stores at regular service
stations. This is the best source for parts specific to
To ensure the suitability of parts, it is your vehicle that are not sold elsewhere (eg
sometimes necessary to check the vehicle emblems, trim panels , body parts, etc.) - it is
identification number. If possible, it is useful the only place you should buy parts if your
to compare new parts with old ones in order vehicle is in storage. on guarantee
to ensure their identity. Products such as Spare parts stores
starter and alternator can be exchanged for
These stores are convenient for
reconditioned ones at service stations. At the
purchasing materials and components
same time, components removed from the
needed to maintain your vehicle. For
vehicle and transferred to the exchange
example, oil, air and fuel filters, spark plugs,
station must be clean.
as well as light bulbs, drive belts, brake fluid,
Покупка запасных частей п•3
store, have the same standard that is usedneeded to repair large components. They cost of a new tire.
by the manufacturer. In addition to spare may also perform work such as boring the
Other sources
parts, you can purchase tools and cylinder block, grinding and balancing the
accessories in these stores. They have crankshaft, etc. Beware of purchasing parts and materials
convenient opening hours, relatively low Tire and exhaust service shops from the market, car boot sales, or other
prices and may be located close to your These workshops may be independent or dubious sources. These parts will not
home. You can also order any items throughpart of a local or national service network. necessarily turn out to be unusable, and
the order desk. necessary spare parts and They often offer competitive prices there is little hope of compensation if these
accessories. compared to the main dealer, but there are parts turn out to be inoperable. In the case of
Service stations several aspects to consider before making a purchasing parts that are of great safety
decision. Find out what "extras" may be concern ( type of brake system components)
Good service stations usually stock the
there is a risk of not only financial loss, but
most commonly used components, which added to the purchase - for example,
installing a new valve and balancing a wheel also an accident that could cause serious
wear out relatively quickly, but may
often charges a price commensurate with the injury or even death.
sometimes have individual components
Vehicle identification
Modernization is a constantly occurring -

process of making minor changes to the
design of cars. Spare parts catalogs take into
account these changes based on
identification numbers, so in order to
correctly select the spare parts that are
suitable specifically for your vehicle, it is
necessary to correctly identify it
When ordering spare parts, always provide
as much information as possible. Specify
vehicle type designation, chassis number,
engine number, etc. if possible, vehicle
identification number. A plate with an
identification number is riveted to the left of
the door pillar. The plate indicates the
identification number and weight of the
vehicle ( see illustration) The identification
number is also printed on a plate attached to
the front panel (it is visible through the
windshield).
The engine number is located on the front
of the cylinder block and can be found in the
following locations.
Местоположения идентификационных номеров автомобиля
a) On gasoline engines, the engine number
is located on the left of the cylinder 1 Номер шасси
block. The number is either printed 2 Пластина изготовителя (также содержит идентификационный номер и
directly on the block or on a plate riveted другую информацию)
to the block. 3/4 Код цвета, давления в шинах и типа шин
b) On diesel engines, the engine number is 5 Идентификационный номер (на ветровом стекле)
printed on the base 6 Код коробки передач
4 Номер двигателя
нии блока цилиндров на плоской На заметку: Первая часть номера

поверхности, справа масляного двигателя представляет собой код фильтра
/охладителя. двигателя, например, КРУ.
п•а Ремонт - общие положения
Observe the following rules when Threaded connections Cotter pins must always be replaced with
performing maintenance, restoration or new ones that match the hole size.
Nuts, bolts and screws are common
repair work: If an anaerobic sealant or other anti-
places where corrosion occurs. If a threaded
loosening compound has been applied to the
Mating surfaces and gaskets joint will not come off, soak the joint in liquid
threads , it must be washed off with a solvent
oil, kerosene or another similar liquid and
When disassembling mating parts, never and a wire brush, and fresh compound must
leave it for a while. You can try using a
insert screwdrivers or similar tools between be applied when reassembling.
screwdriver or an impact wrench. If none of
them. This may cause serious damage .
these methods help, you can try gently Special tools and accessories
which after assembly end in leaks of oil,
warming up the connection. If that doesn't
coolant, etc. Some repair procedures described in this
help either. you will have to resort to using a
Separating is usually done by tapping manual require the use of special tools such
hacksaw or chisel. The studs are usually
along the mating surfaces with a hammer as presses, two- or three-jaw pullers, spring
removed as follows. Screw two nuts onto the
made of a soft material to dislodge or break compressors, etc. Wherever possible ,
stud together and tighten them well. Then,
the gasket. However, keep in mind that this suitable substitutes for special tools are
turning the bottom nut with a wrench,
method is not suitable for disassembling pin described. In some cases, where no
unscrew the stud. Studs or bolts that have
connections. alternative is possible, it is necessary to use
broken below the surface of the part they
If there is to be a gasket between the
were screwed into can sometimes be
mating surfaces of two parts, a new gasket
removed using a stud puller. Before driving a
should always be installed during assembly.
stud or bolt into a blind hole, first ensure that
install a dry gasket unless otherwise stated in
the hole is completely free of oil, grease,
the assembly manual
water or other liquid. If this is not done, the
Before installation, ensure that the mating
housing may collapse due to increased
surfaces are wiped clean and dry and that
hydraulic pressure. which a bolt or stud
there are no traces of old gasket. When
creates when screwed in.
cleaning the mating surfaces, use a tool that
When installing a castle nut, tighten the
will not damage the surface. Remove any
nut to the specified torque, then tighten it to
burrs or nicks using an oiled abrasive stone
the next cotter pin hole. Never remove the
or a fine file.
nut to line up cotter pin holes unless
Make sure all threaded holes are clean
specifically instructed to do so in the
and do not allow sealant fluid to enter them
assembly instructions.
unless otherwise specified in the assembly
If you need to check that a bolt or nut is
instructions.
properly tightened, unscrew it a quarter turn,
Make sure. that all holes, channels or
then tighten it again to the required torque
pipes are clean, blow them out with
using a torque wrench. However, this cannot
compressed air
be done if the connection has been tightened
Sealing cuffs with a torque wrench and turned to the
required angle.
The cuff can be removed by prying it up
For some threaded connections .
using a wide-tipped screwdriver or similar
tool . Alternatively, you can screw several especially for cylinder head bolts or nuts, the
self-tapping screws into the cuff and pull out last stage of tightening is not the torque, but
the cuff using pliers. the angle to which the fastener must be
In any case, and regardless of the reason tightened. Typically, a fairly low torque is
for removal, the removed cuff should be specified to tighten the bolts in a certain
replaced with a new one during installation. sequence , then tighten them in one or more
The new cuff can be easily damaged and will steps at the indicated angles
not perform its functions if the surface with
Washers and anti-loosening
which it comes into contact is not completely
cleaned of scratches, nicks or grooves. If the agents
surface the part cannot be repaired and the Any fastener that needs to be rotated
manufacturer has not provided the possibility relative to a part or body when tightened
for some movement of the seal relative to the must always have a washer between it and
surface, the part must be replaced. the corresponding part .
Protect the working edges of the cuff from Spring or split washers should always be
contact with any parts that could damage replaced in critical connections such as the
them during installation . Use tape or tapered connecting rod bottom end. Fold-over
mandrel if possible Lubricate the seal with oil washers should also always be replaced if
before installation. When installing a seal they have been bent at least once to release
with two lips, fill the space between them with a nut or bolt .
grease. Unless otherwise specified, when Self-locking nuts can be used many times
installing the cuffs, they must be lubricated in less critical connections . if resistance is
with the oil whose leakage they prevent. felt when twisting . when the locking part of
To press the cuff into the housing, use a the nut engages the threads of a stud or bolt.
ring mandrel of the appropriate size or a However , it should be noted that self-locking
wooden block. The cuff must be installed nuts gradually lose their effectiveness with
flush with the surface of the housing (unless prolonged use and they also need to be
otherwise specified). replaced periodically
Ремонт - общие положения П • 5
Use a proprietary tool for reasons of safety draining and storing used oil. legislation in the field of environmental
and to improve the quality of repairs. If your When changing oils, brake fluid , protection, in particular, the reduction of air
qualifications are not very high, or if you have
antifreeze, etc., it is necessary to take pollution from motor vehicles, many cars
not achieved a complete understanding of measures against environmental pollution. have devices for protecting the most
the procedures described, never try to do For example, do not pour any of the above important points of adjustment of the fuel
without using a special tool (device) if the liquids into a public drain or onto the ground system. These protective devices are
described procedure requires its use. You where they can be absorbed. There are intended, first of all, to prevent unqualified
can not only get injured, but also damage many collection points for waste oils and intervention in the adjustment air-fuel
expensive parts other liquids. Every garage or secured mixtures, which can cause increased toxicity
of exhaust gases. Such protections must be
Protecting the Environment Note: It is parking lot should have a special collection restored after repair, in accordance with the
facility for such liquids.
illegal and immoral to dump oil on the ground. requirements of the manufacturer or current
Due to the ever-increasing tightening of
Every garage should have a container for legislation.
Lifting the car with a jack and installing supports
The jack included in the vehicle's tool kit correctly.

should only be used for changing wheels , Never work under. next to or near a raised
see "Replacing wheels" at the beginning of vehicle unless it is securely supported in at
this manual When performing any other least two points.
work, lift the vehicle using a hydraulic jack.
Always, in addition to the jack, install support
supports under the reinforced areas of the
body sills intended for mounting the jack
{see. illustration)
To raise the front of the vehicle, place a
jack under the engine frame at the front
center Raise the vehicle to the desired height
Точки установки домкрата и осевых опор обозначены

треугольником на коробе автомобиля
and place supports under the reinforced sill

points
To raise the rear of the car, place a jack
under the lower rear suspension arm ,
directly under the suspension spring. Raise
the car to the desired height and place
supports under the reinforced sill points . The
jack included with the car. installed at
specially reinforced points on the inside of
the body sills. Before. how to start lifting the
car, make sure. that the jack head is installed
П•Б Инструменты и приспособления
Introduction 0 Set of spanners: Metric - from 8 to 19 mm 0 Drive wrench with universal joint (for use
inclusive with sockets)
Choosing good tools is the key to good
service and successful car repairs for car 0 Adjustable wrench - jaws 35mm ( approx). 0 Torque wrench (for use with sockets )
owners . If you don't have such tools, buying 0 Spark plug wrench (with rubber insert ) 0 Round head hammer
them will cause a significant expense. 0 Tool for adjusting the spark plug gap 0 Soft head hammer (plastic , aluminum or
However, provided that the tools you buy 0 Set of probes rubber)
meet safety requirements and are of good 0 Key for unscrewing brake system bleed 0 Screwdrivers:
quality, they will last for many years and save Flat end - long and strong, short (wide),
nipples
a lot of money. narrow (for electrical work)
0 Screwdrivers:
To help the car owner decide what tools he With cross-shaped end - long and
Flat end - 100mm long x 6mm diameter
needs to perform the various jobs described strong, short (wide)
Cross end -100mm long x 6mm
in this manual, we have compiled three lists 0 Pliers
diameter With long noses
of tools under the following headings:
0 Pliers Side cutters (for electrical work)
"Maintenance and minor repairs" "Medium
and major repairs " and “Special tools” 0 Hacksaw 0 Spring ring pullers - external and internal
Owners who do not have repair experience 0 Tire pressure indicator 0 Chisel - 25 mm
should start by purchasing a set of tools for 0 Tool for removing the oil filter 0 Marker
maintenance and minor repairs and limit 0 Cloth sandpaper 0 scraper
themselves to a simple workplace near the 0 Wire brush (small) 0 Funnel (medium size) 0 Kerner
car. Then, as you gain experience, you can 0 Punch
move on to solving more complex problems. 0 Hacksaw
This will require purchasing additional tools 0 Hose clamp set
as needed Thus ><tool set “Maintenance 0 Drill with a set of drills
and minor repairs” can be increased to the 0 Steel ruler
“Medium and Major Repair ” set over a 0 File set
significant period of time, without large one- 0 Car stands
time costs. Experienced mechanics can have 0 Wire brush set
a set of tools suitable for most repair jobs, as 0 Hydraulic jack
well as additional tools from the “Special ” 0 Portable lamp with extension cable 0
categories if you are sure . that the cost of Set of tools for medium and major Universal electrical meter
purchasing them will be justified by frequent
repairs
use of these tools
These tools and accessories are essential for
any major car repair and complement the tool
kit for maintenance and minor repairs.
This listing includes a set of socket wrenches
with interchangeable heads. Although
expensive, it is very convenient for । ps -
making repairs when loosening nuts and
bolts with different heads We recommend a
wrench for these wrenches with a square
head, since it can be used with most torque
Set of tools for maintenance and sockets. Tools in this list sometimes require
minor repairs supplementation with tools from the Special
This list shows the minimum set of tools List
required for maintenance and minor repairs. 0 Set of socket heads in the range of the
We recommend buying combination previous list
wrenches (spanner on one side and open- 0 Reversible ratchet drive (for use with
end wrench on the other); Although these sockets)
wrenches are more expensive, they have the 0 Extension with a length of at least 250 mm
advantages of both types of wrenches. (for use with socket heads)
Торцевые головки и вороток с храпо-

вым механизмом
Шлицевой ключ и торцовые головки Шланговый зажим

Инструменты и приспособления П•7
Special tools particles with a dry cloth. Never leave them

The tools and accessories shown in this on the work site unless you are currently
list are not used frequently and are using them. Simple tools such as
expensive, but should be used in accordance screwdrivers and pliers are stored on the
with the manufacturer's instructions. If walls of the garage (store wrenches and
relatively complex mechanical work is socket wrench heads in a metal box). Any
performed infrequently, the purchase of measuring instruments, indicators, etc.
these tools will not be worthwhile. If the depot should be stored in places where they will be
is like this. You could team up with friends (or protected from damage and rust.
join a car club). to buy such instruments or Use basic caution when working with tools
rent them from specialists. and equipment. From time to time, nicks Micrometers
Keep the following list! only those tools appear on the head of the hammer, and the
and devices that are commercially available, blades of screwdrivers become dull. Pay a
and not those. which are produced by the little attention to your tools, work with
vehicle manufacturer specifically for its sandpaper or a file, and you will return the
representatives. Throughout this manual you tools to their original condition.
can find references to special tools. An
alternative method of doing the job without
special tools is usually given. However,
sometimes there is no alternative to them. If
this is the case and the appropriate tools
cannot be purchased or borrowed. You will DTC Reader
have to entrust the work to a representative
of the company.
0 Device for compressing valve springs
0 Valve dismantling tool
0 Piston ring guide Belt wrench
0 Tool for removing/installing piston rings
0 Honing head for cylinder mirror points
0 Ball pin remover
0 Device for compressing suspension
springs Compressometer
0 Pullers of various designs 0 Impact
screwdriver
0 Micrometer
0 Angle meter/dial indicator
0 Strobe
Dial indicator
0 Chopper angle meter/tachometer
0 Universal electrical tester Workplace
0 DTC reader If the scope of work exceeds normal -
0 Compressometer maintenance, a good work area is essential.
0 Manual vacuum pump and indicator For example. such work as engine assembly
0 Tool for centering the clutch driven disc and disassembly, etc. should be carried out
0 Tool for removing brake pads in a garage under a roof. Wherever possible,
0 Device for unpressing/pressing bushings disassembly of any part should be carried out
0 Stud extractor on a clean, flat workbench or table of suitable
0 Set of taps and dies for thread cutting height.
0 Device for lifting loads Any workbench should be equipped with a
0 Trolley jack vice with an opening of up to 100 mm. These
Buying tools vices are suitable for most jobs. As
Supermarkets and big box parts stores mentioned above, a dry, clean place should
often offer excellent quality tools and be allocated for storing tools, in addition,
accessories at low prices. space is required to store all kinds of
Remember, you don't have to buy the lubricants, liquids, touch-up paint, etc. .d
most expensive tool, but also avoid buying One of the most popular tools in the
the cheapest one. Beware of "bargains" garage is an electric drill with a chuck for drill
offered at boot sales or similar; <b<x places. bits up to at least 8mm in diameter, which can
You can, of course, buy good tools here at be used for a wide variety of jobs.
reasonable prices, but always try to buy Last but not least, always keep some old
products that meet safety requirements. If in newspapers and clean rags at your work
doubt, consult the store owner or manager. place and keep your work area clean
Tool storage and maintenance
Having purchased the necessary set of
tools Comrade. keep it in a clean and
serviceable condition. After use, always
clean tools to remove dirt, oil and metal
п•в Проверка технического состояния автомобиля
Below are recommendations for checking the technical condition of

a car in terms of its readiness for an annual technical inspection.
Obviously, you will not be able to determine the technical condition
of the car as competently as is done at a technical diagnostic station.
However, the checks below will allow you to install and. It is possible
to eliminate the faults before presenting the car for inspection.
If the performance of the component being tested is in doubt, the
inspector can decide on its suitability at his own discretion. In this
case, his decision will depend on how positively he is disposed
towards you. The appearance of the car is of no small importance for
this, if the car is cleanly washed and it is clear that it well maintained,
the inspector will most likely be inclined to consider it in good
condition, and not because when the car is in a clearly neglected state
The performance requirements given in this manual are based on
the instructions . valid at the time of writing the Guide. These
requirements become more stringent over time, although some
relaxations are made for older cars. You will need an assistant to
carry out some checks.
These checks were divided into four categories as

follows:
Checks I Checking the

performed L Checks performed О Checks carried out composition
from the seat by car, on a raised exhaust
driver standing on car gases
earth with free
rotating
wheels
•4 Checks I performed with the brake pedal almost reaches the floor, this
indicates that the brake needs to be adjusted
driver's seat or reset. If you feel elasticity when you press
the pedal, this indicates the presence of air in
Parking brake the hydraulic system, which must be
0 Check the operation of the parking brake. removed by bleeding.
Excessive movement (too many clicks) 0 Check that the brake pedal is securely
indicates a faulty brake or improper cable attached and that it is in good condition. Also
adjustment. check for leaks around the pedal on the butt
0 Make sure. that the handbrake will not or carpets, which would indicate a bad seal in
release if you press the lever from the side. the brake master cylinder.
Check that the lever is securely fastened. 0 Check the brake booster unit (if equipped)
by pressing the brake pedal several times,
then, without releasing the pedal, start the
engine. After starting the engine, the pedal
should drop slightly. If this does not happen,
the vacuum hose or booster may be faulty
Foot brake (pedal)

0 Depress the brake pedal and check that it
does not reach the floor, which would
indicate a problem with the master cylinder.
Release the pedal, wait a few seconds, then
press again. If
Steering wheel and steering

column
0 Check the steering wheel for cracks or
looseness.
0 Twitch the steering wheel from side to side
, then up and down. Make sure the steering
wheel is not loose on the column, which
would indicate wear or a loose nut.
0 Continue to pull the steering wheel as
before . but turn it slightly left and right. Make
sure that the steering wheel is not loose on
the column and that there is no increased
play.
Windshield and rearview mirrors

0 The windshield must not have cracks or
other significant damage that impedes the
driver’s visibility. (Small from
Проверка технического состояния автомобиля п • 9
marks from stones) Rear view mirrors must

not be damaged and must be easily
adjustable
0 The sun visor on the driver's side must be
securely locked in the raised position
suspension parts or steering mechanism

свободно читаться
0 Промежуток (А) должен быть, по
крайней мере в 2 реза шире промежутка
(В).
Seat belts and seats

Note: The checks below apply to both the
front and rear seats.
of the brake lights.
0 Inspect the belts (including the rear ones if 0 Press the brake pedal and. Without letting
they are installed) for tears and significant 0 Check the operation of the side lights and it go, check the hoses for swelling or leaks
abrasions. Fasten and unfasten each belt to license plate lamps. Lenses and reflectors under pressure.
check the operation of the locks. If there aremust be securely fastened, clean and
Steering and suspension
any, check the operation of the tensioning undamaged
mechanism. Check that the belt supports are 0 Check the operation and direction of the 0 Have an assistant turn the steering wheel
securely fastened headlights. The headlight reflectors must be slightly from side to side until the wheels
0 Safety belts equipped with tensioners that free of stains and the lenses must not be begin to turn. Check for excessive free play
are activated must have a mark on the damaged. 0 Turn on the ignition and check between the steering wheel and steering
buckle. This does not cancel the seat belt the operation of the turn signals (including mechanism, which would indicate excessive
inspection procedure indicators on the instrument panel) and the wear or looseness of the steering column,
steering shaft-to-pinion connection, or the
0 The front seats must be securely locked in operation of the hazard warning lights.
Turning on the side lights and brake lights gear itself.
the selected position, the seat backs must be
should not cause the indicators to turn on - if 0 Now let the assistant turn the steering
locked in an upright position
this happens, the reason is poor grounding in wheel more vigorously from side to side so
the rear group of lamps. that the wheels just begin to turn. Inspect all
0 Check the operation of the rear fog lights, hinges, supports and connections of the
including the indicator on the dashboard or steering mechanism. Replace parts that
on the switch . show signs of wear or damage. On vehicles
0 The ABS warning lamp should light up and with power steering, check the condition of
go out in accordance with the manufacturer's the power steering pump and hose drive belt.
instructions . In most vehicles, the system
warning light comes on when the ignition is
turned on, and then (unless there is a
problem) should go out after a few seconds.
Doors Foot brake (pedal)
0Both front doors must open and close
0 Check the master cylinder, brake hoses
from both the outside and inside and be
and booster unit for leaks, corrosion or other
securely latched in the closed position.
damage.
2 Checks,
performed with a car
parked on the ground
Electrical equipment
0 Turn on the ignition and check the
operation of the horn 0 Inspect both front brake hoses and make
0 Check the operation of the windshield sure there are no cracks. Turn the steering
washer and wipers. Replace damaged or wheel from lock to lock and make sure that
deformed brushes. Also check the operation the hoses do not touch the wheels, tires,
Идентификация автомобиля
0Пластина идентификации должна
0 Make sure the vehicle is approximately 0 The same general inspection principles
level and at a normal height above the apply to vehicles with other types of
ground. suspension, such as torsion bar, hydraulic,
etc. Ensure that all mountings are secure,
Shock absorbers there are no signs of excessive wear,
0 Press each corner of the car in turn, then corrosion or damage, and that hydraulic
release it. The car should rise, then return to suspensions are not leaking or damaged.
its normal position. If the car continues to tubes and their connections.
rock, the shock absorber is faulty. If the car 0 Inspect the shock absorbers and make
does not return to its original position, then sure there are no serious leaks. Check for
the shock absorber is also faulty. Front and rear suspension and wear on the bushings and fasteners, and
make sure there is no damage to the
wheel bearings housings
0 Starting from the front right side, grab the
wheel at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions Drive shafts
and vigorously rock it horizontally. Check for 0 Rotate each front wheel in turn and inspect
play in the wheel bearings, ball joints, and the protective covers of the constant velocity
suspension and steering mounts. joints. Also ensure that the drive shafts are
0 Now grab the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock not bent or damaged.
position wheel and repeat the previous -
check. Rotate the wheel and check that its
bearings are intact.
Exhaust system
0 Start the engine. Plug the muffler pipe with
a rag and check the system for leaks. Repair
or replace faulty sections.
Brake system
0 If it is possible to do this without
disassembly , check the wear of the brake
0 If a connection is suspected of being loose, linings and the condition of the disc. Make
this suspicion can be confirmed by pressing sure there is no excessive wear of the
a large screwdriver or similar tool between rubbing parts.
the suspect connection and the housing. This
will make it clear where the wear has
occurred in the connection sleeve, mounting
3 Checks performed with the

vehicle raised and wheels
freely rotating
bolts or support
Raise the front and rear parts of the car with

a jack and install reliable supports. Position
the supports so that they do not touch the
suspension components. Make sure that the surfaces (A) and that the discs do not have
wheels do not touch the ground and that the cracks. chips, signs of pitting and other
steering wheel can be turned in both damage (B) 0 Check the condition of all metal
directions until it stops. brake pipes under the vehicle and the
Steering gear (bolt holes are often lengthened). 0 Perform condition of flexible hoses. Note the
the entire set of checks on the other front presence of corrosion, abrasions or loose
0 Have an assistant turn the steering wheel
wheel and the son-in-law on both rear wheels fitting of the pipes, as well as swelling,
from lock to lock. Check that the steering abrasion or signs of corrosion of flexible
mechanism rotates smoothly and ensure that Springs and shock absorbers hoses,
no part of the mechanism , including the 0 Inspect the suspension struts for leaks,
wheel or tire, touches the brake hoses or any corrosion, or damage to the housing. Check
body parts. that all attachment points are secure
0 Check that the rubber protective covers of 0 If pruds are installed.”; g esss ■ ry. Check
the steering rack are not damaged and that the position of the outer coils of the
the clamps are securely fastened. If power suspension springs in their supports, as well
steering is installed, check for damage or as the absence of breakages and damage to
leaks in hoses, pipes, or connections. Check the springs.
for excessively tight or binding steering, a 0 If leaf springs are installed , check that the
loose cotter pin or other fastener, or severe leaf springs are not damaged, that the leaf
body corrosion within 30 cm from any springs are securely attached to the axle tors,
mounting point for steering components. and that the spring-to-body attachments are
not damaged.
Проверка технического состояния автомобиля п • 316
0 Look for signs of brake fluid leakage on the tread width. An incorrect nose tread may no more than 6%: for models not equipped
caliper and brake wall. Restore or replace indicate incorrect front wheel alignment. with neutralization systems or equipped with
worn parts, two-component (oxidative) neutralization
0 Rotate each wheel slowly while your systems • a two-channel gas analyzer
assistant presses and releases the brake designed to measure the content of carbon
pedal. Ensure that each brake engages the monoxide (CO) and hydrocarbons ( CH); for
wheel and does not rub when the pedal is models equipped with three-component
neutralization systems • four-channel gas
released.
analyzers designed to measure the content
0 Check the handbrake actuator for any
of CO, CH, carbon dioxide (COE ) and
abrasions or
oxygen (O2 ) .
Four-channel gas analyzers can also be
used to perform measurements on vehicles
Body corrosion not equipped with neutralization systems or
0 Check the condition of the car body and equipped with two-component neutralization
make sure there are no signs of corrosion, systems.
especially in areas that bear the load If you do not have such a device and
(chassis side members and box parts, sills, cannot borrow it for a while, then almost any
cross members, struts and the entire installation shop will do this work for you for
suspension, steering, brake system, safety a reasonable fee.
belt fastenings, etc.) Any corrosion, which 0Before starting measurements, check by
external inspection whether the vehicle has
0 Check the handbrake actuator for frayed or seriously reduces the thickness of the metal
systems and devices that reduce harmful
broken cables, excessive corrosion , wear or in the loaded area may cause an accident. In emissions. In case of discrepancy between
loose connections. Check the braking of such cases, it is necessary to repair the body the actual configuration of the vehicle and the
each wheel to ensure that that when the by contacting the services of a professional. measurement established by the
brake is released the wheel rotates freely, 0Damage or corrosion that results in sharp manufacturer
without jamming. edges on the body may be grounds for
0 The effectiveness of the brakes cannot be declaring the vehicle unsuitable for use.
checked without special equipment, but later
you can test the brakes on the road, and you
need to check whether the car does not skid
4 Checking the composition of
exhaust gases
when braking
Fuel system and Gasoline engines

exhaust system Note: Below are the standards for the
0 Inspect the fuel tank (including the cap), content of harmful impurities in the exhaust
fuel lines, hoses and connections (fittings). gases of cars with gasoline engines in force
in Ukraine at the time of writing this Manual.
All components must be in good working
The standards are regulated by GOST
order and not damaged.
52033-5003, introduced on January 1, 2004
traces of leaks.
to replace the previously existing GOST 17.2.
0 Examine the entire length of the exhaust V. 03-87.
system, make sure there is no damage , 2) GOST uses the following terminology:
broken or deformed parts. rust or corrosion neutralization system is a system that
provides a reduction in the content of, mainly,
carbon monoxide and hydrocarbons in the
exhaust gases, without feedback on the
composition of the working mixture.
neutralization system - a feedback system
(based on excess air ratio) that reduces the
content of carbon monoxide, hydrocarbons
and nitrogen oxides in the exhaust gases
□The content of carbon monoxide (CO) and
hydrocarbons (HC) in the exhaust gases of
Wheels and tires cars is determined with the engine idling for
0 Inspect the sidewalls and tread area of two crankshaft speeds set by the
each tire. Make sure there are no tears, manufacturer for this model: minimum (ptil )
swelling, tread tears or cord damage. Check and increased (n^) . If there is no such data,
then the check is performed under the
that the tire valve is located correctly on the
following conditions'
inner side surface of the wheel rim, make
Value p tp should not exceed 1100 min-'
sure that the valve is in good condition and
The value of n 11ШК is set within the range of
that the wheel rim is not damaged or
2500-3500 rpm for vehicles not equipped
deformed.
with an exhaust gas aftertreatment
0 Make sure the tires are the correct size for system;
the vehicle, that each axle has the same type 2000-3500 min-' - equipped with an exhaust
and size tires, and that the tire pressures are gas neutralization system ;
correct. 0To perform this work, you will need an
0 Check the tire tread depth . The minimum exhaust gas analyzer with a relative error of
depth - 1 6 mm - must be at least 3/4 of the
л • пг Проверка технического состояния автомобиля
there is no point in performing it - you will not dashboard: not more than:
pass the technical inspection • when the ignition is turned on, before
0 Before measurement, the car engine must Smokiness %, no more
starting the engine, the diagnostic indicator
be warmed up to a temperature not lower should turn on for a short period of time;
than the operating temperature of the engine 40
Without
oil or coolant specified in the vehicle 50
operating instructions, but not lower than Exhaust system requirements 15
60°C 0 After warming up the engine , the car
should be prepared for measurements in the
following order:
• set the gear shift lever (or mode selector Requirements for the neutralization system
for cars with an automatic transmission ) to and other equipment to reduce harmful
neutral position, emissions
• apply the parking brake and turn off the
Requirements for the crankcase ventilation
engine,
system
• connect the tachometer sensors and from
the oil temperature meter (if it is included in Requirements for the built-in engine
the measuring equipment kit), diagnostic system: after the ignition is
• insert the sampling probe of the gas -
analyzer into the exhaust pipe of the car to a Комплектация автомобилей
п дм
со% НС. млн '
depth of at least 300 mm from the cut (with Автомобили выпуска до 01 10 86 4.5
an oblique cut of the exhaust pipe, the depth Автомобили, не оснащенные системой 35 1200
is read from the short edge of the cut). нейтрализации отработавших газов Ппы
2.0 600
0 On models not equipped with an
aftertreatment system, take measurements Автомобили, оборудованные двухкомпонентной п 10 40П
"таг
in the following order: системой нейтрализации отработавших газов
• Before carrying out the measurement, - Автомобили с трехкомпонентной системой ней- 05 100
check and set the zero readings of the gas трализации отработавших газов и оборудован-
analyzer on the CO and HC measurement ные бортовой системой диагностирования 0.3 100
scales;
• Start the engine by pressing the throttle Значение коэффициента избытка воздуха в режиме холостого хода на п, н у ав-
pedal. increase the engine speed to n and томобилей. оборудованных трехкомпонентной системой нейтрализации, должно
operate in this mode for at least 15 seconds. быть в пределах данных, установленных предприятием-изготовителем При от-
• release the accelerator pedal, set the сутствии таких данных значение должно быть от 0 97 до 1 03
minimum engine speed n^ and, no earlier
than 30 seconds later, measure the content Модели с дизельным двигателем
of carbon monoxide CO and hydrocarbons
0 Единственная проверка, которой подвергаются дизельные двигатели (по ГОСТ
HC. 2139375), заключается в измерении плотности дыма в выхлопных газах. Испытания
• set the engine speed to an increased проводятся в режиме свободного ускорения и в режиме максимальной частоты
speed and, no earlier than 30 s later,
вращения
measure the content of CO and HC 0 on
vehicles equipped with an exhaust gas На заметку: Для успешного проведения испытания чрезвычайно большое значение
имеет хорошее состояние ремня привода распределительного вала. Ниже
aftertreatment system. take measurements
приведены предельно допустимые нормы дымности отработавших газов
in the following order:
дизельных двигателей:
• Before taking measurements, check and Режим измерения
set the gas analyzer to zero readings on the При ускорении вращения коленчатого вала,
CO measurement scales. NS and CO 2 без наддува с наддувом
• perform measurements in the following На максимальной частоте вращения вала
order
• Start the engine by pressing the throttle
Повышенный уровень дымности выхлопных газов может быть вызван загрязнени-
pedal. increase the engine shaft speed to p
ем воздушного фильтра. В остальных случаях для установления причины потребует-
)M . maintain this mode for 2.3 minutes (at an
ся консультация профессионала
ambient temperature below 0*C -45
minutes), and after stabilizing the readings, Требования к техническому состоянию автомобиля и двигателя
measure the content of CO, HC. and also turned on , the corresponding
record the value of the excess air coefficient;
signal from the diagnostic - Комплектность (отсутствие каких-либо элементов
• set the minimum engine shaft speed n^ indicator stops the further системы выпуска не допускается) герметичность
and not earlier than 30 s, measure the testing procedure; (утечка выхлопных газов из-за неплотности соедине-
content of carbon monoxide • after starting the engine, the
and ний. ржавчины, механических повреждений и пр. не
hydrocarbons. Start measuring at n t| „ should
diagnostic indicator should turn допускается)
be no later than 30 s after checking in the 1Pa
off; if the diagnostic indicator Комплектность (отсутствие каких-либо элементов
mode> remains on during engine системы нейтрализации, системе улавливания от-
0 On vehicles equipped with a three- - operation, further testing работавших газов паров топлива, рециркуляции
component exhaust gas aftertreatment procedure is stopped отработавших газов и пр )
system and a built-in diagnostic system, Content of CO and HC in
Комплектность системы и герметичность элементов
before measuring the CO and HC content, exhaust gases
check the performance of the engine and the 0 CO and HC content within the функционирование диагностического индикатора,
aftertreatment system according to the limits of the data established by соответствующее исправной работе двигателя
(индикатор при работающем двигателе выключен)
diagnostic indicator located on the the vehicle manufacturer, but
Поиск неисправностей п • 13
Engine 0 Vibration when decelerating or accelerating

0 Engine does not rotate when trying to start Brake system
0 Engine turns but does not start
0 The car skids to one side when braking
0 Engine does not start when cold
0 Brake noise or squealing when braking
0 Engine does not start when hot
0 Excessive brake pedal travel
0 Excessive noise during starter operation
0 You can feel it when you press the brake pedal.
0 The engine starts but immediately stalls
elastic resistance
0 Engine runs rough at idle
0 Engine ignition failures at idle 0 Excessive brake pedal force required
0 Engine ignition failures at operating speeds To stop the car
0 Engine accelerates slowly 0 Intense vibration felt through the brake pedal or steering wheel
0 The blower stalls when braking
0 Insufficient engine power 0 Brake jamming
0 Engine backfires 0 Rear brake locking during normal
0 When the engine is running, the low oil pressure warning light braking
comes on Suspension and steering
0 Motor continues to rotate after switching off
0 The car pulls in one direction
0 Engine noise
0 Wheel runout and vibration
Cooling system 0 Excessive sway in the longitudinal and/or lateral direction when
turning and braking
0 Overheat
0 Yaw or erratic straight-line motion
0 Hypothermia
0 Stiff steering wheel rotation
0 External coolant leak
0 Excessive steering play
0 Internal coolant leak
0 Power steering does not work
0 Corrosion
0 Excessive tire wear
Power supply and exhaust systems
0 Excessive fuel consumption
0 Fuel leak and/or fuel smell 0 Battery drains within a few days
0 Excessive noise or soot from the exhaust system 0 The battery discharge lamp does not go out when
starting the engine
Clutch 0 The battery discharge lamp does not light up
0 When pressed, the pedal reaches the floor, providing little after stopping the engine
resistance 0 Lighting devices do not work
0 Clutch does not disengage 0 Instrument readings are inaccurate or unstable
0 Clutch slipping (engine speed increases without increasing 0 The sound signal does not work or does not work
vehicle speed) satisfactorily
0 Intense vibration when engaging the clutch 0 Windshield wipers do not work or work unsatisfactorily
0 Noise when pressing or releasing the clutch pedal 0 Flushes do not work or work
unsatisfactory
Manual Transmission 0 Power windows do not work or work poorly
0 Noise in neutral when the engine is running 0 The central locking system does not work or does not work
0 Noise in one of the gears satisfactorily
0 Difficulty shifting gears
0 Spontaneous gear switching off
0 Vibration
0 Oil leak
0 Oil leak
0 Transmission oil is brown and has a burnt smell
0 General faults in the gearshift system '
0 Transmission does not downshift
with the fuel control pedal fully pressed
0 The engine does not start in any gear or starts in gears other than
“P>-” or “I”
0 The transmission is slipping, there is noise, or the vehicle does
not move in forward or reverse gear.
Drive shafts
0 Clicks or knocks when turning (at low speeds at maximum
steering angle)
п • 14 Поиск неисправностей
Introduction necessary A calm and logical approach will car won't start, check if there is gasoline in
A vehicle owner who adheres to the ultimately cost less Always take into account the tank Don't rely on anyone's words and
required maintenance schedules will not any signs of abnormal operation that may don't trust the fuel indicator 1 If there is a fault
have to use this section of the manual very have been noticed in the period leading up to in the electrical circuit, look for a loose
often. The reliability of branded parts is such the fault - loss of power, high or low gauge connection or broken wire before taking out
readings, unusual odors, etc - and remember the tester
that if parts and components subject to wear
that faulty parts such as fuses or spark plugs Treat the disease, not the symptoms -
are inspected or replaced within the
can only be a consequence of underlying Replacing a dead battery with a fully charged
specified time frame, a sudden breakdown is
faults one will relieve you of the problem for a
unlikely
These pages contain recommendations to while, but if the cause of the discharge is not
Failures can occur not only as a result of
make it easier to find the most common found, the new battery will soon become
sudden failure, but also due to the
faults that may occur during vehicle discharged. Likewise, replacing oil-
accumulation of damage over time. Serious
operation . These faults and their possible contaminated spark plugs will allow you to
failures are usually preceded by telltale signs
causes are grouped under headings continue driving, but remember: that the
hundreds or even thousands of kilometers
indicating various components or systems of cause of contamination (unless it was the
before failure. Those components that
the vehicle, such as the engine, cooling wrong type of spark plug) has become and it
sometimes fail without warning are usually
system, etc. Possible causes of faults are must be identified and eliminated
small in size and fits easily in the trunk
accompanied by chapters and sections in Don't take anything for granted Especially
When faced with any problem, the first
parentheses that contain descriptions of the remember that a "new" component may be
step is to decide where to start looking. defective to begin with (especially if it's been
relevant repair procedures When searching
Sometimes this is obvious. in other cases - sitting in the trunk for months ) and don't
and determining faults, the following basic
no. An owner who has made, without much bypass components in the troubleshooting
principles apply. Make sure there is a fault
thought, half a dozen adjustments or sequence just because they're new or
You need to know exactly what the
replacements, may be lucky and the recently installed When you finally discover
symptoms of a fault are before you start
malfunction (or its symptoms) will disappear, the source of the difficult fault. You will
work. This is especially important if you are
but he will not know what to do if the probably realize that everything was obvious
helping someone else find a fault. may not
malfunction occurs again and, possibly, will from the very beginning
have described the problem very accurately
spend more time and money, than
Don't miss obvious facts For example, if the
Engine
Engine does not turn when trying to start 0 Fuel injection system malfunction
0 Battery contacts are loose or oxidized “Weekly checks” gasoline engines (Chapter 4)
0 Battery is low or faulty (Chapter 5) 0 Other ignition system malfunction - gasoline engines (Chapters 1
0 Irregularities in the electrical wiring of the starter circuit ((chain 5) and 5)
0 The traction relay or starter switch is faulty (Chapter 5). 0 Low compression in engine cylinders (Chapter 21
0 Starter faulty ((lava 5)
0 Starter gear or flywheel ring gear teeth Engine does not start when hot
loose or broken (Chapters 2 and 5) 0 The filter EL is dirty or clogged
0 Motor grounding faulty (Chapter 5) air filter (Chapter 1)
0 Fuel injection system malfunction
The engine turns but does not start
gasoline engines (Chapter 4)
0 Empty fuel tank. 0 Low compression in the engine cylinders (Ch.
0 Battery discharged (starter turns slowly) (Chapter 5).
0 Battery contacts loose or oxidized - Weekly checks" Excessive noise when the starter is running
0 Ignition system parts are wet or damaged in gasoline engines 0 Elekn gear >starter or ring gear teeth
(Chapters 1 and 5) flywheel loose or broken (Chapters 2 and 5)
0 The wiring in the ignition circuit is broken 0 Loosening the bolt in the starter mounting (Chapter 5)
gasoline engines (Chapters 1 and 5) 0 Internal starter components are worn or
0 Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs - petrol engines damaged (Chapter 5)
(Chapter 1)
0 Malfunction of the preheating system of diesel engines (Chapter
5)
0 Fuel injection system malfunction -
gasoline engines (Chapter 4)
0 Fuel cut-off valve malfunction
diesel engines (Chapter 4)
0 Serious mechanical failure (e.g. broken camshaft drive belt)
(Chapter 2)
Engine does not start when cold
0 Low battery (Chapter 5)
0 Battery contacts are loose or oxidized “Weekly checks”
0 Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs - petrol engines
(Chapter 1)
0 Malfunction of the preheating system of diesel engines (Chapter
5)
The engine starts and immediately stalls 0 Vacuum leak in the throttle body in the intake manifold or
0 Broken or loose contacts in; >pi ignition associated hoses on gasoline engines (Chapter 4)
gasoline engines (Chapters 1 and 5) 0 Fuel filter clogged (Chapter I)
0 Malfunction or low discharge pressure of the fuel pump - gasoline
0 Vacuum leak in the intake manifold or associated hoses -
engines (Otava 4)
gasoline engines ((Lava 4)
0 The fuel tank ventilation system is clogged
0 Malfunction of the fuel injection system - gasoline engines
or the fuel line is pinched (Chapter 4)
(Chapter 4).
0 Clogged injectors/malfunction of the fuel injection system -
The engine is idling erratically gasoline engines (Chapter 4 ) ,
0 The air filter element is dirty or clogged (Chapter 1) 0 Faulty injectors - diesel; engines (Chapter 4)
0 Vacuum leak in the intake manifold or associated hoses on Insufficient engine power
gasoline engines (Chapter 4) 0 Incorrect installation of the timing chain (Otava 21
0 Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs on petrol engines 0 Fuel filter clogged (Chapter 1)
(Chapter 1). 0 Malfunction or low discharge pressure of the fuel pump (Otava 4)
0 uneven or low compression in the engine cylinders (Chapter 2) 0 Uneven or low compression on cylinders.
0 Camshaft lobe wear (Chapter 2) engine (Otava 2)
0 Incorrect installation of chain, gas distribution (Chapter 2) 0 Wear, malfunction or incorrect setting of the spark plug gap -
0 Clogged injectors/fuel injection system malfunction - petrol engines gasoline engines (Otava 4)
(Chapter 4) 0 Vacuum leak in throttle body.
0 Faulty injector(s) - diesel engines (Chapter 4). in the intake manifold or hoses associated with it - gasoline
failures when the engine is idling engines (Otava 4).
0 Clogged injectors/system malfunction: fuel injection - gasoline
0 Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs - petrol engines
engines (Otava 4)
(Chapter 11
0 Faulty injectors on diesel engines (Chapter 4)
0 Spark plug high voltage wires faulty - petrol engines (Chapter 1)
0 Incorrect setting of the injection timing of the high pressure fuel
0 Vacuum leak in throttle body. pump -
in the intake manifold or associated hoses - petrol engines diesel engines (Chapter 4)
(Chapter 4) 0 Brake jamming (Chapters 1 and 9)
0 Clogged injectors/malfunction of the fuel injection system, gasoline 0 Clutch slipping (Chapter 6)
engines ((Lava 4)
0 Faulty injector(s) - Glow ignition
diesel engines (Chapter 4) 0 Incorrect timing chain installation (Chapter 2)
0 Crack in the ignition distributor cap or internal failure - gasoline 0 Vacuum leak in throttle body.
engines ((Lava 1) in the intake manifold or associated hoses - petrol engines
0 Uneven or low compression in the engine cylinders (Chapter 2). (Chapter 4)
0 Disconnection, leakage or destruction of rubber hoses for 0 Clogged injectors/fuel injection system malfunction - petrol
ventilation of the crankshaft crankcase ((Lava 4) engines (Chapter 4)
failures in the operating speed range When the engine is running, the low oil pressure warning light
0 (fuel filter clogged (Chapter 1) comes on
0 I (failure or low discharge pressure of the fuel pump (Chapter 4) 0 Low oil level or use of the wrong type of oil (-Weekly checks-)
0 The fuel tank ventilation system is clogged or 0 Oil pressure sensor faulty (Chapter 5)
the fuel line is pinched (Chapter 4) 0 Engine bearings and/or oil bearings are worn
0 Vacuum treatment in the throttle body, in the intake manifold or pump (Chapter 2)
associated hoses - gasoline engines (Otava 4). 0 Engine operation at elevated temperatures (Chapter 3)
0 Wear, malfunction or incorrect setting of the spark plug gap - 0 Safety valve faulty
gasoline engines ((Lava 1) oil pressure (Chapter 2)
0 Spark plug high voltage wires faulty - petrol engines (Chapter 1) 0 The intake pipe strainer is clogged (Chapter 2)
0 Faulty injector(s) - diesel engines (Chapter 4). The motor continues to rotate after being turned off
0 Crack in the ignition distributor cap or internal breakdown -
0 Excessive contamination of internal engine parts with fuel
gasoline engines (Otava 1 ).
residues (Chapter 2).
0 Malfunction of the ignition coil - gasoline engines
0 Engine operation at elevated temperatures (Chapter 3)
li (Otava 5)
0 Fuel injection system malfunction - petrol engines (Chapter 4)
0 Uneven or low compression in the engine cylinders (Otava 2)
0 Clogged injectors/malfunction of the fuel injection system,
gasoline engines (Otava 4)
The engine accelerates slowly

0 Worn, faulty or incorrectly set gap
spark plugs for gasoline engines (Stava 1)
0 Vacuum leak in the throttle body in the intake manifold or
associated hoses on gasoline engines (Chapter 4)
0 Clogged injectors/malfunction of the fuel injection system -
gasoline engines (Otava 4).
0 Faulty injectors - diesel engines (Chapter 4)
The engine stalls
0 Malfunction of the fuel shut-off valve on diesel engines ([chain 4). 0 Leakage at the exhaust manifold gasket or at the exhaust pipe-
to-manifold connection (Chapter 4)
Engine noise 0 Vacuum hose leak< (Chapters 4.5 and 9)
Pre-ignition (detonation) or knocking noise when accelerating or 0 Failure of the cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2)
under load
Knocking or rattling noises
0 Incorrect advance setting
0 Worn valve train or camshaft (Chapter 2)
ignition/ignition system malfunction - gasoline engines
0 Malfunction in auxiliary units (cooling pump, generator, etc.)
(Chapters I and 5)
(Chapters 3.5, etc.)
0 Candles of unregulated type -
gasoline engines (Chapter 1 ) Knocks or thuds
0 Unregulated fuel (Chapter 1 ). 0 Wear of the bearings of the lower ends of the connecting rods
0 Vacuum leak in the throttle body, in the intake manifold or (regular strong knocking, with possible weakening under load)
associated hoses - gasoline engines ((lava4) (Chapter 2)
0 Excessive contamination of internal engine parts with fuel 0 Wear of main bearings (rattling and knocking, with possible
residues ((Lava 2).
loosening under load) (Chapter 2)
0 Clogged injectors/fuel injection system malfunction - petrol
0 Piston relocation (audible on a cold engine) (Chapter 2).
engines (Chapter 4)
0 Malfunction in auxiliary units (cooling system pump, generator,
Whistling or wheezing noises etc.) (Chapters 3, 5, etc.)
0 Intake manifold or carburetor/throttle body gasket leak - gasoline
engines (Chapter 4)
Cooling system
Overheat 0 Damage to hoses or clamps (Chapter 1)

0 Insufficient amount of coolant 0 Leakage from radiator or heater coil (Chapter 3)
in the system - Weekly checks" 0 Radiator cap is faulty (Chapter 3)
0 Thermostat fault Thermostat does not open (Chapter 3) 0 Coolant pump inner seal leaking (Chapter 3).
0 Clogged radiator or radiator grille (Chapter 3). 0 Leakage from the seal between the pump and the cooling
0 Radiator cooling fan malfunction (Chapter 3) system cylinder block (Chapter 3)
0 Coolant temperature sensor malfunction 0 Liquid boiling away due to overheating (Chapter 3)
liquids (Chapter 3) 0 Leakage through the radiator cap (Chapter 2B)
0 Air lock in the cooling system (Chapter 3)
Internal coolant leak
0 Radiator cap is faulty (Chapter 3)
0 Leakage from the cylinder head gasket (Chapter 2)
Hypothermia 0 Crack in the cylinder head or cylinder liner (Chapter 2)
0 Thermostat fault (Chapter 3)
Corrosion
0 Coolant temperature sensor malfunction (Chapter 3)
0 Radiator cooling fan malfunction (Chapter 3). 0 Rare fluid changes and cooling system flushes (Chapter 1)
0 Unregulated coolant composition or inappropriate type of
external coolant leak antifreeze (Chapter 1)
Power supply and exhaust systems
Increased fuel consumption 0 Damage or corrosion of fuel tank, piping or connections

0 Air filter element clogged (Chapter 1) (Chapter 4)
0 Fuel injection system malfunction - petrol engines (Chapter 4) Excessive noise or soot from the exhaust system
0 Faulty injectors - diesel engines (Chapter 4) 0 Leakage in exhaust system or manifold connections (Chapters
0 Incorrect ignition timing/ignition system malfunction - 1 and 4)
gasoline engines (Chapters 1 and 5) 0 Leakage from a rusted or damaged muffler or pipes (Chapters I
0 Insufficient tire pressure and 4)
-Weekly checks" 0 Contact of the exhaust pipe with the underbody or suspension
Fuel leak and/or fuel smell due to damage to the exhaust system mounting (Chapter 1).
Clutch
When you press the pedal, it reaches the floor without effort or 0 Excessive wear on clutch disc lining (Chapter 6)
with very little effort 0 Malfunction in the clutch hydraulic system - 0 Oil contamination of the clutch disc linings (Chapter B)
hydraulically driven clutch ((section 6) 0 The pressure plate is faulty or the diaphragm spring is loose
0 Clutch release bearing or fork is faulty (Chapter 6) (Chapter 6).
0 Broken diaphragm spring (Chapter 6) Intense vibration when engaging the clutch
Clutch does not disengage (cannot select gear) 0 Oil contamination of the clutch disc linings ((face B)
0 Malfunction of the hydraulic clutch system - Clutch with 0 Excessive wear of the clutch disc lining ((face B)
hydraulic drive ((chain 6). 0 Malfunction or deformation of the pressure plate or diaphragm
0 Jamming of the clutch disc on the splines of the transmission spring ((Lab 6)
input shaft ((Lab 6) 0 Worn or loose engine or transmission mounts (Chapter 2).
0 Clutch disc sticking to flywheel or pressure plate ((Lab 6) 0 Wear of the splines of the clutch disc hub or transmission input
0 Pressure plate assembly failure (Chapter 6) shaft ((Lab 6)
0 Malfunction or incorrect assembly of the clutch release Noise when pressing or releasing the clutch pedal
mechanism (Chapter 6).
0 Worn clutch release bearing (Chapter 6)
Clutch slipping (vehicle speed does not increase as engine speed 0 Wear or lack of lubrication of the clutch pedal bushings ((Lava
increases) 6)
0 The drive cable/adjustment mechanism is torn - clutch with 0 Pressure plate assembly failure (Chapter 6)
cable drive ((face B) 0 Breakage of the diaphragm spring of the pressure plate ((face
0 Malfunction in the clutch hydraulic system - hydraulic clutch B)
(Eyes 6) 0 Damage dem! feasting 'ch jin dik >.a clutch ((lava 6)
Note: Due to the complexity of the automatic transmission, it is not malfunctions are caused by a poorly adjusted selector.
easy for the car owner to check and service it. To eliminate faults not а) Starting the engine in gears other than -Ratk" or "NeiTga/".
described below, the vehicle must be taken to dealers or an б) Inconsistency between the indication of the inclusion of any
automatic transmission specialist. Do not rush to remove the box if
gear and the actual gear engaged.
you suspect a malfunction, since most checks are carried out without
в) The car is moving while the -Park" or "LeitgaN" mode is turned
removing it from the car
on.
Transmission fluid leak г) Unreliable or incorrect gear shifting 0 Refer to section 7B to
0 Transmission fluid is usually dark in color Leaks should not be adjust the selector cables
confused with engine oil, which can easily be carried onto the Downshift does not engage when the fuel control pedal is fully
transmission by air flow depressed 0 Transmission fluid level is low (Chapter 1) 0 Incorrect
0To determine the source of the leak, remove all dirt from the gear selector adjustment ((Chapter 7) The engine does not start in
transmission housing and surrounding area using steam or a
any gear, or starts in gears other than Park or Luiga1 0 Incorrect
degreasing agent. Drive the vehicle at low speed so that the air
installing the starter disable switch (Chapter 7).
flow does not carry the leaking fluid away from the source of the
leak. Raise and support the vehicle and determine leak location 0 Incorrect selector cable adjustment (Chapter 7)
Transmission fluid is brown or has a burnt smell Transmission slipping, rough shifting, noise or lack of rotation in
forward or reverse gears
0 Transmission fluid level is low or needs to be replaced (Chapter
0 There are many possible causes of the above malfunctions, but
1).
the car owner can only eliminate one - low fluid level. Before
Major malfunctions in the gear selection mechanism sending the car to a service station, check the level and condition
0 Chapter 7B describes the procedure for checking and adjusting the of the fluid (see (section 1) Add or replace the fluid as necessary.
selector cable of automatic transmissions. The most common If you cannot eliminate the malfunction, contact a specialist
Manual Transmission
Noise in neutral when engine is running Spontaneous gear shutdown

0 Wear of the gearbox input shaft bearings (noise appears when 0 Worn or damaged linkage/shift cable (Chapter 7)
the clutch pedal is released and disappears when the pedal 0 Wear of synchronizers (Chapter 71 '
is pressed) (Chapter 7) .' 0 Wear of selector forks (Chapter 7) *
0 Ian - from the clutch release bearing (noise when the clutch Vibration
pedal is pressed, with a possible decrease in noise when the
0 Lack of oil (Chapter 1)
pedal is released) (Chapter 6).
0 Bearing wear (Chapter 7) *
Noise when engaging one of the gears
Oil leaks
0 Damage or breakage of teeth in the gearbox (Chapter 7)'
0 Transmission oil leakage from differential outlet seal (Chapter
Difficulty shifting gears 0 I The clutch is loose (Chapter 6) 0 The
7)
linkage/shift cable is worn or damaged (Chapter 7).
0 Leakage through housing joints (Chapter 7) •
0 Wear of synchronizers (Chapter 7)'
0 Oil leak through input shaft seal (Chapter 7)
' Although eliminating the above malfunctions is beyond the capabilities of the car owner, however, the information presented should help
you identify the causes of their occurrence in order to clearly present the situation to a professional auto mechanic.
Brake system
Note: To determine if it is the brake system that is at fault, make sure nuts are loose ((Chapter 9)
that the tires are in good condition and properly inflated, that the front 0 Master cylinder faulty (Chapter 9)
wheel alignment is within the recommended range, and that the
vehicle is evenly loaded, except by checking the condition of all Excessive brake pedal force is required to stop the vehicle
pipes. , connection hoses, if there is any malfunction of the ABS, 0 Vacuum booster fault (Chapter 9)
contact the manufacturer's representatives. 0 Disconnection, damage or unreliable fastening of the vacuum
The car skids to one side when braking hose of the brake booster ((Lab 9)
0 Malfunction of the primary or secondary hydraulic circuit (Chapter
0 The front or rear brake pads on one side are worn, damaged or
9)
dirty (Chapter 9).
0 Jamming of the brake caliper piston ((lava 9)
0 Jamming or partial sticking of the brake sup port piston ((Lab 9)
0 Incorrect installation of brake pads ((lava 1 and 9)
0 '. "brake pad linings installed on one axis of the vehicle, made of
0 Installation of non-regulated brake pads (Chapter 9)
various materials ((Lava 9)
0 Contamination of brake pad linings ((Lab 9)
0 Loose brake caliper bolts (Chapter 9) 0 Wear or damage to
suspension or steering components ((Lab 1 and (0) Feeling of intense vibration when braking through the brake pedal
Noise (squealing) when applying brakes or steering wheel
0 Excessive end runout or warping of discs/drums ((face 9)
0 Wear of the friction lining to the base metal of the brake pad ((lines
0 Wear of brake pads/shoes ((Lab 1 and 9) 0 Loosening of brake
1 and 9).
caliper bolts ((Lab 9) 0 Wear of suspension or steering components
0 Excessive corrosion of the brake disc (can occur during long-term
((Lab 1 and 10).
storage of the vehicle) ((Chapter 9).
0 Foreign particles (stone fragments, etc.) are stuck inside the brake. Brake jamming
in contact with the disc (Chapter 9) 0 The brake caliper piston is stuck (1lava 9)
Excessive brake pedal travel 0 Incorrect adjustment of the hand brake mechanism ((section 9)
0 Master cylinder malfunction ((lava 9)
0 Ng serviceability of the master cylinder ((lava 9)
0 Air in the hydraulic system ((lava 9) Rear wheel locking during normal braking
0 Malfunction of the vacuum booster ((lava 9) 0 Contamination of the brake pad linings of the rear brake ((lines 1
When you press the brake pedal, you feel elastic resistance and 9).
0 Malfunction of the rear brake cylinder of the model without AB8
0 Air in the hydraulic system (Chapter 9)
0 Brake hoses need replacing (Chapters 1 and 9) 0 Master cylinder (Chapter 9)
0 Malfunction in the AB5 system ((lava 9).
Drive shafts
Vibration when decelerating or accelerating steering angle) 0 Wear of the outer constant velocity joint
0 Wear of the internal constant velocity joint (Chapter 8) (Chapter 8)
0 Sep well । or the drive shaft is broken (Chapter 8). 0 Lack of lubrication in the constant velocity joint due to damage to
0 Intermediate bearing wear (Chapter 8) the protective cover (Chapter 8)
Clicking or noise when turning (at low speeds at maximum
Suspension and steering
Note: Before diagnosing faults in the suspension or steering, make 0 Malfunctions in the electrical steering system (Chapter 10)
sure that the tire pressures are correct, the tires are of the same 0 Jamming of the ball joint of the suspension or steering ((sections I
type, and the brakes are in good working order. and 10).
0 Incorrect adjustment of the front wheels (Chapter Y)
The car pulls to one side
0 Faulty steering gear or steering linkages (Chapter 10)
0 Tire defect “Weekly checks”
0 Excessive wear on suspension or steering components (Chapters Excessive play in steering
1 and 10) 0 Wear of the steering column intermediate shaft joints (Chapter 10)
0 Incorrect front wheel alignment (Chapter 10) 0 Worn tie rod ball joints (Chapters 1 and 10)
0 Damage to suspension or steering components ( Chapter I) 0 The steering mechanism is worn out (Chapter 10).
Wheel runout and vibration 0 Wear of joint bushings or components • of the hinge or steering
(Chapters 1 and 10).
0 Imbalance of the front wheels (vibration sensation mainly on the
steering wheel) "Weekly checks -' Power steering does not work
0 Imbalance of the rear wheels (vibration sensation, mainly on the 0 Malfunctions in the electrical steering system (Chapter 10)
car body) -Weekly checks- 0 Steering gear malfunction (Chapter 10)
0 Damage or deformation of wheels “Weekly checks”
0 Faulty or damaged tire “Weekly checks” Excessive tire wear
0 Wear of hinge bushings or suspension or steering components Tire wear on the inside or outside edges
((Lab 1 and 10) 0 Incorrect camber or toe angle (wear on one side only) (Chapter
0 Loosening the wheel bolts (Chapters 1 and 10) 10).
Excessive roll in the longitudinal plane and/or excessive roll in the 0 Worn bushings, joints or suspension or steering components
transverse plane when turning or braking (Chapters 1 and 10)
0 Too sharp turns
0 Shock absorber malfunction (Chapters 1 and 10)
0 Consequences of the accident
0 Broken or loose spring and/or hanger component (Chapters 1 and
10) Delamination of the edges of the working surface of the tire
0 Wear or damage to the anti-roll bar or its mountings (Chapter 10) 0 Incorrect wheel toe adjustment (Chapter 10)
Yaw or general instability Tire wear in the central tread area
0 Improper wheel alignment (Chapter 10) 0 High tire pressure “Weekly checks”
0 Worn joint bushings or suspension or steering components Tire wear along the inner and outer edges of the tread
(Chapters 1 and 10)
0 Low tire pressure "Weekly checks"
0 Wheel imbalance “Weekly checks”
0 । (failure or damage to the tire “Weekly checks” Uneven tire wear
0 Loosening the wheel bolts (Chapters 1 and 10) 0 Tire/wheel imbalance (Chapter 1)
0 Shock absorber malfunction (Chapters 1 and 10) 0 Excessive wheel or tire runout (Chapter 11
0 Shock absorber wear (Chapters 1 and 10)
Stiff steering wheel rotation
0 Tire defect “Weekly checks”
Note : Malfunctions related to the starting system are listed under 0 Audio element failure (Chapter 12)
the heading “Engine” (see above in this appendix}
Pulsating or intermittent sound from the horn
Battery drains within a few days 0 Loose wire connections (Chapter 12)
0 Internal battery failure (Chapter 5) 0 Loosening the horn (Chapter 12)
0 Loose or corroded battery terminal clamps - Weekly checks" 0 Horn fault (Chapter 12)
0 Worn or improperly installed accessory drive belt (Chapter 1).
0 Generator or voltage regulator malfunction (Chapter 5) Failure or poor operation of the windshield and
0 and, -- yutnpt, twie the norm of charging current from the generator tailgate wipers
(Chapter 5)
0 Short circuit causing battery discharge (Chapters 5 and 12) Windshield wipers do not work or work very slowly
0 Wiper blades sticking to glass or linkage jamming (Chapters 1 and
low battery warning light does not go off when the engine starts
12)
0 Worn or incorrectly installed auxiliary drive belt ! hotel units 0 Fuse blown (Chapter 12)
(Chapter 1) 0 Break loose or disconnected wire or wire connections (Chapter 12)
0 V>, normal "-failure in the generator or voltage regulator (Chapter 0 Problems in the peripheral electronics system (Chapter 12).
5) 0 Wiper motor malfunction (Chapter 12)
0 , <; .1 ^connection or loosening of contacts in the charging circuit
(Chapter 5) blades move over too much or too little area of glass 0 Wiper arms
are not installed correctly on
low battery indicator does not light up when the ignition is turned on
shafts (Chapter 1)
0 1) the indicator lamp has burned out (Chapter 12). 0 Excessive wear on wiper linkage (Chapter 12)
0 Break, disconnection or loose contact in the indicator pump circuit 0 Wiper motor or linkage loose (Chapter 12)
(Chapter 12).
0 Generator fault (Chapter 5) Windshield wiper blades do not work effectively
0 Wear or damage to the rubber pads of the wiper blades “Weekly
Lighting fixtures do not work
checks”
0 The pump has burned out (Chapter 12). 0 Broken springs or stuck rocker arm joints (Chapter 12)
01 ; pin contacts of the light bulb or socket (Chapter 12) 0 Insufficient detergent additive in the washer fluid to effectively
0 Persian fuse burnt (Chapter 12) clean the glass •Weekly checks"
0 Relay fault (Chapter 12)
0 OORs! o Broken or loose contact in the circuit (Chapter 12) Failure or poor performance of washers
0 faulty switch (Chapter 12)
One or more washer nozzles are not working
Inaccuracy or instability of instrument readings 0 Clogged injector holes (Chapter 1)
Fuel or temperature gauges do not show any readings 0 Disconnected or kinked hose (Chapter 12)
0 Sensor fault (Chapters 3 and 4)
0 Wiring circuit open (Chapter 12)
0 Pointer malfunction (Chapter 12)
0 Problems in the peripheral electronic system (Chapter 12)
Fuel or temperature gauges constantly show the maximum reading
0 Sensor fault (Chapters 3 and 4)
0 Electrical short circuit (Chapter 12)
0 Pointer malfunction (Chapter 12)
0 Problems in the peripheral electronic system (Chapter 12)
Failure or poor operation of the sound signal

The sound signal does not turn off
0 Short to ground or stuck button 1 l - '■ signal (Chapter 12).
0 Short to ground in the button wire (Chapter 12)
The beep doesn't work
0 Fuse blown (Chapter 12)
0 Broken, loose or disconnected wire or wire connections (Chapter
12)
0 Insufficient amount of fluid in the washer fluid reservoir 0 Electrical wiring fault (Chapter 12)
"Weekly checks" 0 Motor fault (Chapter 12)
Washer pump does not work 0 Problems in the peripheral electronic system (Chapter 12)
0 Electrical wiring is broken (Chapter 12)
Failure or poor performance of the central locking
0 Washer switch malfunction (Chapter 12)
system
0 Washer pump malfunction (Chapter 12) The system is completely inoperable
0 The fuse has blown (Chapter 12).
Refusal or unsatisfactory performance
0 Electrical wiring fault (Chapter 12)
electric window 0 Problems in the peripheral electronic system (Chapter 12)
Glass moves in one direction only Locks close but do not open or
0 Switch malfunction (Chapter 12) open but don't close
The glass will mix slowly 0 Breakage or separation of levers or linkages of locks (Chapter 11)
0 Motor fault (Chapter 11)
0 Damaged, seized or lack of lubrication window drive (Chapter 11)
0 Contamination of the drive or internal door components ( Chapter The electromagnet/motor of one of the locks does not work
11) 0 Electrical wiring fault (Chapter 12)
0 Motor fault (Chapter II) 0 Actuator malfunction (Chapter 11 >
The glass will not mix 0 Breakage or separation of levers or linkages of locks (Chapter 11)
п • 22 Словарь технических терминов
the clutch.
ABS (Anti-lock braking system).

B Starter Interlock Switch
Drum brake On vehicles with an automatic
A system, usually electronically controlled The brake is a metal bar located inside the transmission, a switch that prevents starting
, that prevents wheel locking during braking wheel. When you press the brake pedal,
if gear No. Shga1 or Park is not engaged
by reducing the fluid pressure in the wheel curved brake shoes are pressed against the
brakes. inside of the drum to slow or stop the car.
An exhaust manifold
A pipeline with several channels through
Emergency brake Runout which exhaust gases exit the engine
A braking system, independent of the main Radial or axial movement of the rim or end
hydraulic brake system, that can be used to of a rotating part relative to a fixed point due combustion chambers and enter the exhaust
slow or stop a vehicle when the main brakes to inaccuracy in its manufacture or improper pipe.
fail, and to hold the vehicle in place when the fit on the shaft Viscosity
brake pedal is released. Typically has a lever A quantity characterizing the resistance of
that is mechanically connected to the front or Electronic control unit a liquid to flow
rear brakes by cables and lever mechanisms A computer that controls (for example) the
Also known as hand brake or parking brake. ignition and fuel injection system or the anti-
Adsorber
lock braking system
G
An element of the environmental
protection system , designed to prevent fuel
vapors from entering the atmosphere, Drive shaft
IN Generator
Element of electrical equipment of a car .
contains granules of activated charcoal to which converts mechanical energy into
Any shaft that transmits torque. This is
retain fuel vapors in the engine fuel supply usually called the axle shaft in front-wheel electrical energy. Driven by the crankshaft
system through a belt drive. Used to recharge the
drive cars.
battery, operate the ignition system and
Bleeding valve electrical appliances.
A valve or lock screw on a brake wheel
cylinder, caliper, or other hydraulic Sealant
component that opens to bleed the hydraulic Liquid or paste to prevent leakage at a
system to remove air. Sometimes called a connection. Sometimes used in conjunction
fitting. with a gasket.
Philipps screw Hydraulic pusher

A type of screw that has a Phillips head A pushrod that uses hydraulic pressure
instead of a straight head. It requires the from the engine's lubrication system to
appropriate type of screwdriver. maintain zero clearance (constant contact)
Adsorber
with the camshaft and valve stem.
Ampere Automatically adjusts
Unit of measurement of electric current
One ampere (A) - current flowing through a
resistance of 1 Ohm with a voltage difference
at its ends of I volt (V)
Anaerobic sealant
Substance for preventing bolts and
screws from turning. Anaerobic - means that
it does not require oxygen to activate. BocMe
brand sealant is widely used Air purifier
Air purifier
Anti-stick composition Metal or plastic housing . containing a filter
Coating that reduces the risk of sticking of
element that cleans the air entering the
joints exposed to high temperatures (eg
engine from dust and dirt
exhaust manifold bolts and nuts)
Antifreeze Volt
A substance (usually ethylene glycol) A unit of measurement for voltage in an
that, mixed with water, is used in a car's electrical circuit. A voltage of 1 volt (V) is
cooling system to prevent the coolant from produced at the ends of a 1 ohm resistance
freezing in winter. Antifreeze also contains when a current of 1 ampere (A) flows through
chemical additives to prevent corrosion and it.
rust, which would tend to clog the radiator
Intake manifold
and coolant passages and reduce cooling
A pipeline with channels through which the
system efficiency.
working mixture (carburetor engine and
Asbestos engine with throttle injection) or air (diesel
A naturally occurring fibrous mineral with engine) is supplied to the valves in the
high thermal resistance , commonly used in cylinder head.
brake lining materials. Asbestos is a health
hazard, and dust created by brake systems Release bearing
should not be inhaled or ingested. Thrust bearing in the clutch . which moves
axially under the action of the clutch pedal
and acts on the release levers or on the
petals of the diaphragm spring to disengage
Словарь технических терминов п • гз
changes the length of the valve stem when it Star A device that mixes fuel and air in the
heats up Hydraulic tappets reduce valve A wheel with teeth that mesh with a chain. proper proportions to provide the required
noise Toothed belt power to a spark-ignition internal combustion
A belt that has teeth around its perimeter engine.
d
Oxygen sensor
to prevent it from slipping. Drives the engine
camshaft from the crankshaft to rotate. A
break or accidental displacement of the belt
Cardan shaft
A long, hollow tube with universal joints at
the ends that transmits torque from the
A device installed in the exhaust manifold teeth can lead to serious engine damage. transmission to the differential on rear-wheel
of an engine that detects the oxygen content Toothed pulley drive, front-engine vehicles.
of the exhaust gases and converts this A wheel with teeth that mesh with a timing Cardan joint
information into electrical current. Also known belt Double hinge joint for transmitting rotation at
as *lamb-da-sonde" a certain angle. The cardan joint consists of
Overhead valve engine
An engine with valves located in the AND two Y-shaped forks and a cross joint called a
cross.
cylinder head. Indicator Carter
A device or light on the instrument panel The lower part of the engine block in which
Overhead Cam Engine
Engine with camshaft(s) located on the - designed to monitor the status of vehicle the crankshaft rotates
cylinder head systems. An indicator with a moving pointer Catalytic converter
and scale divisions is called analog. An A device in the exhaust system that
Torsional vibration damper indicator with a numeric display of converts some particularly harmful
A device designed to reduce vibration information is called a digital indicator. Tool
components of the exhaust gases into less
when the crankshaft rotates. Can be installed for measuring runout and play.
harmful ones,
in the crankshaft pulley.
Tool
Diagnostic code (trouble code) The selection and acquisition of tools are
A digital code generated by the electronic described in this Guide.
engine management system when a
malfunction occurs. This code can be read Spark gap (gap)
through the diagnostic module and used to Distance between the center and side
determine which part of the system may be electrodes in a spark plug Also refers to the
faulty. gap between the contacts in the breaker
assembly in a conventional contact ignition.
Disc brake
A brake that includes a rotating disc that Catalytic converter
is compressed by brake pads. Friction
converts the energy of a moving car into heat.
Spacer (washer)
A thin spacer used to adjust the axial
clearance or relative position between two
parts. Adjustment is made by changing the
thickness of the spacer.
3 Adjusting the spark plug gap

Gauge of clearances in plain bearings
A thin plastic thread of various sizes used
Stub to measure clearances. For example, to
A metal part in the form of a disk or plate measure the clearance in a plain bearing. it is
that covers a hole in the casting used to necessary to lay the thread across the
remove the molding sand. In cast parts of the bearing journal. Assemble and disassemble
engine housing, such plugs also serve as the bearing; the width of the pressed strip will
safety elements that reduce the likelihood of indicate the value of the gap between the
damage to them when the coolant freezes journal and the bearing.
Gap
Distance between two parts For example,
between a piston and a cylinder, between a
bearing and a journal, etc.
Valve clearance
Clearance between the valve stop (end of
the valve stem) and the rocker arm or
pushrod. Valve clearance is measured when
the valve is closed
Running from a foreign source
Gauge of clearances in plain bearings
Starting a car engine with a discharged or
weak battery from a charged battery by
connecting the batteries with large-section
wires
Carburetor
Valve A headlamp design in which the reflector, Axis
The device you go through! flow of liquid lens and filaments are combined into a The shaft on which the wheel rotates, or
or gas Their quantity can be regulated by a sealed unit. When the filaments burn out or which rotates together with the wheel. Also -
moving clock, which opens, closes , or cracks appear on the lens, the entire unit is a beam that connects the two wheels of a car.
partially blocks one or more passages replaced. Axle. which also transmits torque to the
The valve is also called the moving part of wheels. called the leading axis.
Backlash
the device.
Movement due to clearance between two Fold washer
Exhaust gas recirculation valve parts In relation to the crankshaft, this is the A washer designed to prevent -
Valve for passing exhaust gases into the distance that the shaft can move forward and spontaneous loosening or loosening of nuts
intake manifold. backward in the cylinder block. securing components and parts by bending a
special tongue of the washer onto the edge
Allen Key
Hex key for loosening hex socket bolts m of the nut
Crankshaft
The main engine shaft, located along the
entire length of the crankshaft housing, and
Flywheel
A massive disk in which pulse energy is
P
accumulated during working strokes in the Partition
having cranks to which connecting rods are
cylinders. On cars, the flywheel is attached to A part of the car body that separates the
attached.
the crankshaft to smooth out uneven rotation. compartment from the passenger
compartment (engine or luggage
Multimeter
compartment).
An electrical tester capable of measuring
voltage, current and resistance. Also known Fuse link
as a tester. A circuit protection device consisting of a
Fan clutch conductor surrounded by heat- resistant
Hydraulic transmission, which allows you insulation. The conductor has a smaller
to maintain the desired fan speed when the diameter than the wire it is protecting, so it
engine warms up, acts as the weakest link in the chain. Unlike
a blown fuse, a broken fuse must be cut from
Crankshaft Assembly
Compression
Reducing the volume and increasing the
n the wire to be replaced
Fuse
An electrical device that protects a
pressure and temperature of the gas. Airbag
circuit from accidental overload. A typical
An inflatable airbag hidden in the steering
Lock-nut fuse contains a low-fusible wire that is rated
wheel (driver's side) or in the glove
(a nut that fixes another nut or bolt in the compartment (passenger's side), as well as so. so that it can melt at a certain amount of
desired position, for example, used for in other places of the car. During a frontal - electric current (in amperes) and disconnect
adjustment. the protected circuit.
collision, the airbags inflate, protecting the
Main bearings driver and passengers from hitting the Sleeve bearing
Bearings in which the crankshaft rotates steering wheel, windshield or other parts of A unit that ensures easy rotation of the
in the engine crankcase. In an engine with an the cabin. shaft in the housing and does not allow their
in-line cylinder arrangement, the number of relative radial displacement. Usually made in
main bearings is usually one more than the
number of cylinders. Main bearings are
ABOUT the form of a cylindrical bore in the body into
which a sleeve or insert is inserted
usually made in the form of bores in the Pressure limiter
crankcase, which contain liners. coated Hydraulic control valve that limits rear -
inside with anti-friction material with a low brake pressure during emergency braking to
friction coefficient. prevent wheel locking
Rocker Nitrogen oxides.
Double-arm lever swinging on an axis or A major toxic pollutant emitted by
on a trunnion. In an engine with an overhead gasoline and diesel engines at high
camshaft, the gearbox transmits the temperatures.
movement of the pushrod to the valve stem. Ohm
Castle nut Unit of electrical resistance . A resistance
An elongated nut, on the top of the of 1 ohm) when a current of 1 ampere (A) is
kechora there are through slots for fixing the passed through it creates a voltage drop of 1
nut on a bolt or stud, preventing self- volt (V)
unscrewing.
Ohmmeter
"Crocodile" Measuring device for determining -
Long spring metal clamp with teeth. Used electrical resistance
for temporary connection to the electrical
Ignition advance
network The angle, usually expressed in degrees,
through which the crankshaft rotates during
L the time between the moment the mixture
ignites and the moment the piston reaches
Lamp-headlight top dead center
Словарь технических терминов п • гз
Breath made of anti-friction material with a
low coefficient of friction. A sliding bearing -
usually requires good pressure lubrication.
WITH
Example - engine crankshaft bearings Welding
The connection of two parts by heating
Longitudinal inclination of the turning and melting the metal in the welding area.
axis
Free movement
The angle of the wheels, which determines
Moving before the start of the Free
the inclination of the axis of the rotary rack in
Movement action in a linkage or assembly,
the longitudinal plane. The longitudinal
between the start of force application and the
inclination angle is considered positive when
actual movement. For example, the distance
the top of the axle is tilted back Pad
that the brake pedal moves before the piston
Bleeding the brakes Spring ring in the brake master cylinder begins to move
Procedure for bleeding air from the hydraulic Ring clamp to prevent longitudinal Serpentine drive
brake drive system. movement of cylindrical parts and shafts. The An engine accessory drive in which,
inner snap ring is installed in a recess instead of several short belts, one wide, long
(groove) in the housing; The outer snap ring belt is used, covering all the pulleys.
is inserted into a recess (groove) on the outer
surface of the cylindrical shaft.
R
Radiator
A heat exchange device that provides -
heat transfer from liquid to air, designed to
reduce the temperature of the liquid in the
cooling system of an internal combustion
engine.
Bleeding the brakes Camshaft

A rotating shaft containing a series of
Pad cams that operate engine valve mechanisms.
Any thin soft material - usually cork, The camshaft can be chain, gear or belt Serpentine drive
cardboard, asbestos or soft metal - placed driven.
between two metal surfaces to provide a Engine management system
good seal. For example, the cylinder head Rack and pinion steering Computer control system for fuel injection
gasket is installed at the junction between the A steering system in which the steering and ignition as interconnected processes
block and the cylinder head shaft has a gear at the end that meshes with Compression ratio
a rack. When you turn the steering wheel, the The ratio of the volume of the cylinder
drive gear turns and moves the rack left or when the piston is at bottom dead center to
right. This movement is transmitted through the volume of the cylinder when the piston is
the steering rods to the steering wheels. at top dead center
Adjustment MacPherson strut
The process of accurately and carefully - Front suspension system, fig.
tuning the operation of an engine, including rebuilt by Earp McPherson at Ford in
replacing certain parts, in order to obtain the England In its original form, the lower
best possible engine performance. suspension arm is formed by a simple
Pressure regulator horizontal connection with the anti-roll bar.
Sleeve bearing A hydraulic brake control valve that works Between the body and the steering knuckle,
Half shaft like a pressure limiter, but also takes into a long strut is installed, combining the coil
spring and shock absorber into one unit.
A rotating shaft that transmits torque from account the load on the rear axle. Many
the final drive mechanism to the drive wheel Camshaft Drive Belt
A toothed belt that rotates the camshaft.
Cylinder operating order
A broken belt while the engine is running can
The order in which the mixture ignites in
have serious consequences.
the engine cylinders, starting with the first
cylinder. Rotor
A rotating part of any device (for example,
Accessory drive a generator)
Belt drive designed to drive auxiliary units The turbocharger rotor is an assembly that
such as generator, water pump, power includes the compressor wheel, shaft and
steering pump turbine wheel.
control, air conditioning compressor, etc. The distributor rotor is the rotating part of
from the crankshaft pulley. the ignition distributor that alternately
connects the central electrode on the
distributor cap to the high voltage spark plug
wires and directs high voltage from the
ignition coil winding to the proper spark plug.
pad. like material. When assembling the unit, to
modern so-called racks ensure a reliable seal, the ring is placed in a
MacPherson struts use a regular A-arm Brake shoe
groove in which it is pressed by the attached
as a lower support and rest on an anti- A part of a disc or drum brake that is
part.
roll bar pressed against the surface of the disc or
f
drum connected to the wheel and is designed
Caliper
to slow or stop a vehicle. The brake shoe
The fixed part of the disc brake that
usually has a base made of steel in the shape
covers the disc and serves as a guide for
of the stopping link (flat for a disc brake and Air cleaner element
the brake pads. The caliper also contains
crescent-shaped for a drum brake), to which The main element of the air cleaner ,
the working hydraulic cylinders of the
a brake lining made of friction material is usually made of porous paper, through which
brake system with pistons that press the
glued or riveted all air flow entering the engine passes
brake pads to the disc during braking.
Wiring diagram
A drawing showing the components
and wiring of a vehicle's electrical system
Brake system
Brake systems of cars are discussed in
detail in the corresponding Manual
X
Refrigerant
using standardized symbols Brake drum
Any substance used to remove heat from
The part of the brake that rotates with the
Wheel alignment an air conditioning system. For many years,
wheel and is acted upon by the brake pads to
The difference in distances between the most common refrigerant was R-12, but
stop the vehicle.
the end surfaces of the wheels at the recently manufacturers have begun using the
front and rear. If this distance at the rear Brake disk less toxic refrigerant R-134a. which causes
is greater than at the front, the toe-in is A part of the brake that rotates with the less harm to the ozone layer of the
called positive; if vice versa, it is wheel and is acted upon by the brake pads to atmosphere Refrigerant is sometimes called
negative. Usually, toe-in is important for stop the vehicle . the coolant of the cooling system
the front (steered) wheels. On cars with
Tracer Hon
rear drive wheels, a slight positive toe-in
Stripes of a different color applied to the Abrasive tool for correcting small
is necessary to compensate for forces.
sheath of a wire to distinguish that wire from deviations in the cylindricity of bores or
tending to spread the wheels so that the
another with a sheath of the same color differences in the diameters of engine
front wheels are parallel when driving.
cylinders, brake cylinders, etc.
On front-wheel drive vehicles, a slight Turbocharger
divergence (negative toe) is usually A device with a gas turbine and a
installed centrifugal compressor, driven by exhaust
gases , to increase the air pressure in the
intake manifold . Typically used to increase
ts
Timing chain
engine power while maintaining a constant The chain that transmits torque from the
cylinder displacement. crankshaft to the camshaft
Thermostat
U
A temperature-controlled valve that Coil spring
regulates the flow of coolant between A spiral made of elastic steel, having
the cylinder block and the radiator to different sizes. Used in many components of
maintain optimal engine temperature. Impact puller a car, for example, as an elastic element in
Thermostat is also used in some air A special puller that is screwed or the suspension, in the valve mechanism
purifiers where the temperature is attached to a part, such as a shaft or bearing.
controlled
Pusher
The puller rod has a solid blank that can slide
along the rod. At the free end of the rod there
is a stop into which the blank hits, releasing
w
A cylindrical part that transmits - Ball bearing
the part to be removed A unit that ensures easy rotation of the
motion from the cam to the valve stem
either directly or through a rocker arm Extension shaft in the housing and its fixation relative to
A metal rod with a hole at the end, put on the housing in the radial and axial directions.
Brake lining The bearing consists of an inner and outer
a knob to increase the length of the tightening
A part made of friction material ring with steel balls between them.
arm of threaded connections.
having a high coefficient of friction. The brake
lining is glued or riveted to a steel base, Sealing ring
together with which it makes up the brake A type of seal made of a special rubber-
Constant-velocity joint
A type of universal joint in which there are
no speed fluctuations caused by changes in
the angle of torque transmission.
Словарь технических терминов П • 57
Connecting rod bearing
The bearing with which the lower head of
the connecting rod is connected to the crank
of the engine crankshaft is usually made in
the form of a plain bearing.
Calipers
A precision measuring instrument that -
measures internal and external dimensions.
Not as accurate as a micrometer, but more
convenient.
sch
Flat feeler gauge
A thin strip or blade of solid steel of a
certain thickness is used to determine the
gaps between parts.
Flat feeler gauge
uh
Electronic fuel injection control system
A computer-controlled fuel delivery system
that distributes fuel to injectors located in
each engine intake port.
п • га Предметный указатель
Diesel engines 4V*19
Emergency alarm
Liquid 0*12, 1A*15. 78*2
12*14
G
Generator 5A*4
Troubleshooting . P*17
Master cylinder
Removal and installation . 2A*18. 2C*3. 7V*1
Battery 0*3.0*11.5A*2 Clutch 6*2
Accelerator Brake system ..................................................................... 9*14
Pedal position sensor. . 4A*10.4V*14 Cylinder head
Pedal 4A*3, 4B*7 Gasoline engines 2A • 1 3
Cable. .... 4A*2 Diesel engines. . 2B • 17
Shock absorber - check 10*5, 10*9, P*10 Connecting rod heads
Antenna ........... 12*14 Checking clearances 2C • 13
Anti-lock brake system 9*17 Service Schedule
Antifreeze 0*7. 0*5. 1A*16.
Models with gasoline engines 1A*3
18*16
Audio system . 2*13 Models with diesel engines. 18*3
B
d
Manifold absolute pressure sensor 4A*9 4( -15
Fuel tank 4A*6, 4B*7 Engine oil emergency pressure sensor 28*22.5A*6
Bumpers ... .... 11*4, 11*5 Automatic transmission fluid pressure sensor 78*6
Brake drums 9*11 Fuel pressure sensor 48*2.48*15
Cylinder block 2C*9 Knock sensor 4V*15
Electronic control unit (ECU) Oxygen sensor 4C*2
Automatic transmission . ...78*2 Accelerator pedal position sensor 48*14 4A*Yu
Fuel system Camshaft position sensor 48*14
Gasoline engines 4A*7
Air flow sensor 4V • 14
emission management 4C • 1 Vehicle speed sensor 4A*10 48*15
Towing 0*9 Input shaft speed sensor 78*5
Output shaft speed sensor 78*5
IN Crankshaft position sensor

Gasoline engines.
Diesel engines .
4A*10
48*14
Vacuum pump
Brake system 9*19 Wheel speed sensor (for ABS) 9*18
Vacuum booster 9*15 Inlet air temperature sensor 4A*10
Drive shafts - checking covers and hinges 8*1 Coolant temperature sensor 4A*10
Heater fan 3*8 Fuel temperature sensor 4V *2
Cooling fan . 3*4 Oil level sensor 2V*22.5A*6
Crankcase ventilation
Doors ................................ .................................. Locks 1 1 *7
Gasoline engines 4C*1
Diesel engines ............................ 4C*2 External handles. . .. 11*7
Top hatch 11*13 Facing................................ ......... 11*6
Windshield .11*13 Removal, installation and adjustment 11 *6
Dents - repair 11*2 Glasses and power windows. 11*9 11*10
Water pump 3*5 Brake discs 9*7. 9*8
Air ducts Road check
Gasoline engines 4A*2 Models with gasoline engines 1A*6
Diesel engines 4V*4 Models with diesel engines 18*6
Air purifier
Models with gasoline engines. 4A*2
Models with diesel engines ............................................... 48*4
Air filter - replacement
AND
Models with gasoline engines . 1A*14 Liquids 1A*2
Models with diesel engines 18*13 Automatic transmission fluid 0*12
Release bearing 6*5 Hydraulic fluid 0*12
Release fork 7A*2 Level check 1A*15
Switches 12*4 Window washer fluid 0*8
Ignition switch 12*5 Coolant 0*12
Light switch in luggage compartment 12*5 Replacement Models with gasoline engines 1A•16
Brake light switch 12*5
Reversing light switch 7A*5
Air release
From the hydraulic clutch . .6*1
From the fuel system of diesel engines 4V*4
From the brake system .9*2
Headlight beam height 12*11
Exhaust system
Gasoline engines . 4A*11
Предметный указатель п • 29
Models with diesel engines ...................................... 1B • 16 Toothed belt covers Gasoline engines ............................... 2A-5
Level check 07 Diesel engines ............................................................... 2V -7
Brake fluid 0'12 Steering knuckle 10-2
Replacement . . 1A-13. 1B-12
Level check 0'8
Removing air from the system ............................................... 9*3
Replacing wheels .................................................................. 0'4 Light bulbs
Locks Luggage compartment ...................................................... 12-9
Side doors ........................................................................... 11-7 High brake light .................................................................. .2-8
Luggage compartment doors ............................................. 11-12 [side lights....................................................................... 12-6
Hood . .....,. ...................... . .11*5 Rear lights ........................................................................ 12-7
Steering column 10-13 Indicators .......................................................................... 12-9
Lubrication of hinges and locks ...................... 1A-9, 1B-9 Interior lighting. . . . 12-8
Central .11-12 Switch backlights 12-10
Ignition switch .... 5A-6 License plate lights ...................................... 12-8
Spare parts P-2 Heater panel lights ............................................................ 12-9
Filling the fuel system Dashboard lights ............................................................... 12-9
Diesel engines. . ... . 4B-4 Clock lights ....................................... ................ . .12-10
Crankshaft sprocket Gasoline engines .......................... . . 2A-9 Fog lights ............................... 12-6
Diesel engines. 2V-11 Direction indicators. . ... . 12-7
Camshaft sprocket Gasoline engines ................................. 2A-8 Far ..................................................................................... 12-6
Diesel engines .................................................................. 2V-10 Front panel . 11 -20
Injection pump sprocket
Toothed belt sprockets Petrol engines............................... 2A-8
2V-11
Diesel engines ................................................................... 2B-10

m
Selector shaft seal 7V-4
Sound signal 12-11
Input shaft cuff 7A-4
Mirrors 11-13
Camshaft seal
Toothed belt - replacement Gasoline engines ................... 2A-6
Gasoline engines ............................................................ 2A-10
Diesel engines ................................................................... 2B-8
Diesel engines ........................ ....................................... 2V-22
Drive shaft cuffs 8-2
AND Crankshaft seals Gasoline engines. .......
Diesel engines ........................................................... . 2V-22
2A-17
Vehicle identification ........................................................ ... P-3
Motor oil Level check ............................................................ 0-7
Immobilizer .................... 12-4
Replacement
Evaporator .................................... ..... ...3*10
Gasoline ................................................ engines ... 1A-6
Diesel engines ............................. ............................... 1V-6
TO Mechanical transmission oil
Oil heat exchanger
7A-2
2V-21
Hood
Lock 11-5 Oil filter ........................................................................
Removal, installation and adjustment ................................11-5 Gasoline engines. ... 1A-6
Lock cable ......................................................................... 11-5 Diesel engines .................................................................. 1V-6
Engine crankcase 2S-9 Flywheel
Catalytic converter Gasoline engines ..........................4A • 1 2 Gasoline engines ................ ... ................................... 2A-17
Diesel engines ... ........................................... 4V-20 Diesel engines.. 28-23
Ignition coil
Carbon filter purge valve
Valves ............................................................................
5V-2
4C-2
2S-7
n
Glow plugs ......................................................................... 5S-1
Carpets 11-2
Tie rod end .10-13
Crankshaft 2S-8
Outdoor lighting 12-6
Wheel cylinders 9-13
Water pump ....................................................................... 2S-3
Intake manifold Gasoline engines ..................................4A-10
Oil pump
Diesel engines ............................................................. 4V-15
Gasoline engines ................................................. ... 2B-20
Exhaust manifold Gasoline engines ...............................4A-11
Diesel engines ............................................................ 2A-16
Diesel engines ............................................................. 2B • 1 7
Washer pump ............................................................. . 12-'
Brake pads 9-4,9-6.9-11
Compression - check Gasoline engines .......................... 2A-3
Diesel engines .................................................................. 2V-4
Condenser 3-10
Air conditioning 3-9
Main supports 2С-12 2С-14
Rocker arms......... 2A-11.2B-12
Short circuit 12-2
Throttle body 4A-7
Cylinder head cover
Gasoline engines .............................................................. 2A-5
Diesel engines .................................................................. 2V-5
п • га Предметный указатель
Toothed belt tensioner Gasoline engines 4A*1.4A*3

rank engines 2A*8 Diesel engines. 4B*2 4B*9
Diesel engines. 2V*10 Camshaft
Lower suspension arm 10*6 10*10 Gasoline engines ................................ 2A • 11
Diesel engines ............................ 2V*12
Fuel pressure regulator 4A*9.4B*15
Relay ............... . .. 12*4
Internal cladding 11*16 Accessory drive belt
External cladding 11*13 Models with gasoline engines 1A*10
Ignition advance 5V*3 Models with diesel engines 1B*10
Intermediate support for drive shaft 8*5 Seat belts 11 *6
Power block supports Gas recirculation 4C*1
Gasoline engines 2A*18 Vacuum recirculation valve. .. 4C*1
Diesel engines 2V *23 Recirculation solenoid valve 4C*1
Coolant 0*7 0*12 Steering column 10*12
Replacement Steering rod 10*13
Models with gasoline engines. . 1A»16 Steering wheel .10*11
Models with diesel engines 1B • 16 Steering
Checking the level. 0*7 Examination ...................................................................... 10*13
Models with gasoline engines 1A*12
P
Instrument panel . 11*21
Models with diesel engines
Steering mechanism
Door handles
Selector lever
. 1B-12
. 10*13
11*7
7V*3
Backlight ............................ 12*8 Wiper arm 12*11
ventilation control panel 3*6
Fuel vapor - capture
Accelerator pedal
4C • 1
4A*3, 4B*7
WITH
Cabin filter - replacement
Clutch pedal 6*3
Gasoline engines. 1A*Yu
Brake pedal 9*14 Diesel engines . . 1B*10
Faceplate 2A*18 Relieving pressure in the fuel system 4A*4
Suspension Spark plugs - replacement 1A*13
Checking the status . . .................... . . ................... .. .............. Selector 7V*3
Models with gasoline engines 1A • 12 Seats 11*4
Models with diesel engines 1V-12 Charging system 5A*4
Emission control system 4C*1
Removal and installation. 10*1
Transmission control system 7V*5
Pallet Fuel injection control systems
Gasoline engines ... 2A*16 Gasoline engines 4A*8
Diesel engines 2V *20 Diesel engines . 4V*13
Subframe ... _ 11*1 Lubricating locks and hinges
Airbags ............................................................................... 12*15 Models with gasoline engines. 1A*9
Wheel bearings Models with diesel engines .... 1B*9
Anti-roll bar 10*7
Front 10*2
Starter
Backdrop 10*9 Examination . ......................................... . 5A*6
Troubleshooting . . .P*13 Removal and installation..................................................... 5A*5
Piston rings 2C*13 Windshield wiper 12*12
Throttle potentiometer 4A*4 Windshield wiper drive ...................................................... 12*12
Fuses . 12*3 Windshield wiper nozzles. .12*13
Window lifter 11*10
Speedometer drive
Electric windows
Automatic transmission .... 7V*4 Replacement ...................................................................... 11*9
Manual Transmission ..................................................... 7A*5 Suspension strut 10*3
Wiper drive ......................................................................... 12*12 Luggage compartment door support pillars 11*11
Fog lights ............ 12*6, 12*10 Stop signal 12*7
Starting the engine from an external source 0*3 Upper .......................................................................... 12*8
Starting the engine after repair 2С*17 Wheel hubs
Rear 10*8
R
slave ...................... cylinder 6*2
Front ........................................ .
Caliper
10*2
9*89*9
Wheel alignment .............................................................. .10*14
Clutch - check
Radiator
Models with gasoline engines. . 1A*9
Flushing Models with diesel engines 1B*9
Models with gasoline engines. . 1A*16
Models with diesel engines. . 1B-17
Heater
radiato
r .3*7
Break circuit ........................................... 12*2
Fuel ramp
Предметный указатель п • 31
Thermostat
Fuel equipment for diesel engines
.. 3'4
4V*2
X
Idler roller 1A*Yu, 1B*11
Fuel pump gasoline engines 4A • 5
Diesel engines
Fuel filter
Replacement
4V*2, 4V*7
ts
Center console 11*19
Central lock 11*12
Models < : stumps with engines 1V-13
Spiv VODA (models with diesel engines)
Parking brake
Brake system
1B "7
9*15. 9*16 h
Drive shaft covers
P*18 Models with gasoline engines 1 A*9
Check 1A-12, 1B-11 Models with diesel engines 1B *9
Air outlet 9*2
Transmission automatic
Liquid
Removal and installation
. 0*12
7V*7
w
Idle speed control stepper motor 4A*9
Mechanical transmission Checking oil level ............................ 0*8 Constant velocity joints - check
Spilling and filling with oil 7A*2 Gasoline engines. . 1A*9
Diesel engines ............................ 1B*9
Removal and installation of power unit 7A*5
Ball joint 10*6
Accelerator cable Tires
Gasoline engines 4A "2 Tire pressure .0*12
Diesel engines. 4B*7 Status check ...................................................................... 0*9
Hood cable .11*5 Crankshaft pulley . 2B*7
Selector cable 7V*3 Tensioner pulley
Gasoline engines . 2A*8
Parking brake cable 9*16
Diesel engines. 2V*10
Heating and ventilation cables 3'7 Hoses 3*2
Turbocharger . 4V*18
U sch
Windshield wiper blades 0*11
Wheel alignment angles 10*14
Carbon filter 4C*2
Turn signal
Automatic transmission fluid level 7V *2
12*7
uh
Thermal screens
Engine oil level 0*7
Models with gasoline engines 4A • 13
Oil level in manual transmission 7A*2
Models with diesel engines 4V*21
Coolant level 0*7 Recirculation solenoid valve 401.4C*3
Brake fluid level 0*8
Installation holes List of abbreviations
Gasoline engines. 2A*4 ABS Anti-lock Braking System
Diesel engines. ..... 2B*5 BEU . Electronic Control Unit
TDC Top Dead Center
NMT . Bottom Dead Center
injection pump High Pressure Fuel Pump
SH RUS Constant Velocity Joint
Headlights
Fog 12*6
Beam adjustment .2*11
Air filter
Gasoline engines ........... 1 A • 1
4 Ящик для принадлежностей 11*21
Oil filter
Diesel engines 1B*6
Cabin filter
Diesel engines 1B • 10
Fuel filter 1B*13
Reversing lights 12*10
License plate lights 12*U
Fuel injector
Gasoline engines .............................................................. 4A*4
Diesel engines 4V *3.4V • 11
Washer nozzles
Windshield ...................................................................... 12*13
Rear window 12*13
A long-time accomplice to mutiny! V1domost| about Budova avtomobt1v Spgoep SZ z 2002 roku vipusku and 1x modifications,
recommendations for technical maintenance. engine repair transm!sy. popular! parts. steering control with power steering, hydraulic
systems with AB8, electrical components and body elements
S1THREE NW
z 2002 roku vipusku
POS1BNIK 3 OPERATION
TECHNICAL MAINTENANCE
REPAIR AND ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT
(ROFYSKY MOVIE)
author of the text and editor

Kalyukov Akim Tairovich
Design and layout
Ordintsov Teorii V1tal1yovich
Written beforehand 04 10.06 Format 60x80/8. Patr offset. Typeface pragmatist

Offset friend. f|e. friend arc. 16. Circulation 1000 approx. View 7128
Preparations and drukdrukarnya "1MA-PRESS"
Ukraine (at, 49600 m. Dishpropetrovsk vul. Zhurnalyuge 7/88
E-taP: 1pTo@1targez8.sot.ia
LLC "Vidavnitstvo MONOL1T"

Ukraine, 49128, Dniuropetrovsk metro station. Shelgunova street 4
tel. 8 (050) 630-72-41
e-taN topo1^s1r@1.ia
The certificate about the introduction of the subject is obvious! submit to the State Register vidavshv
DP No. 15 V1D 07/16/2002

C3 Service Manual Eng

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РУКОВОДСТВО ПО РЕМОНТУ И ЭКСПЛУАТАЦИИ

БЕНЗИНОВЫЕ МОДЕЛИ 1.1,1Д 1Л

Introduction Car repair procedures

you get the most out of your vehicle. The

Power sliding sunroof

2.1 Seat belts

2.3 Airbag deactivation indicator

1. 6 Heated seat switch , pull it forward and

3.7v The direction of adjustment of the

4.4b Indication of insufficient oil level

Индикация положения селектора автоматической коробки Дисплей передач

4.2 Комбинация приборов

Light indicators CITROEN service station. be a problem with the system.

Индикатор зарядки ABS system indicator

le. If the indicator lights up go out after a few seconds.

Clock and display

Setting display options

4.7a Digital clock

A vehicle not equipped with a Wiper

4.16 Положения переключателя

Rear view mirror installed in

4.23 Power window keys

Auto stop function

5.14 Button for turning on air circulation in the

D Remove the plastic cover and check

WITH Make sure the generator

Убедитесь, что разъемы имеют хороший контакт (при выключенном зажигании)

connectors are securely connected.

Запуск двигателя от вспомогательного аккумулятора Starting from an

touch the fan, drive belts, or other

■ The spare tire and tools ■ are located in

4 Make sure the jack is placed on a solid

What do the smudges mean?

steering fluid Transmission oil

Места проверок под капотом

ДЩуп проверки уровня масла в

В Крышка заливной горловины

О Бачок тормозной сцепления и

<С=1 1.4-литровые ди-

В Крышка заливной горловины

О Бачок сцепления и тормозной

Engine oil level

Уровень охлаждающей жидкости

✓ 4 Coolant level I depends on

2 If refueling is necessary, wait until the

Fluid level in the washer reservoir

Warning: Never use antifreeze in the

A windshield washer system - this may

When refilling, add special washer fluid in

Transmission and brake fluid levels

On the tank located in front of the

Safety comes first!

3 Carefully pour in the liquid.

-< Tread depth -

Typical examples of tire wear

Tread edge wear Uneven wear Middle tread wear

Electrical equipment EXPERT If you don't have a -

■4 If any of the direction indicators, side

Corrosion on the battery can be minimized by

. and terminal clamps on wires