INSIDE THE GATES

OF

LAHORE
Unfolding the secrets of The Walled City

Written and Compiled by

Baalwala
Sheetla Temple
Inside Lohari Gate
 A Must Read Message For My Readers
"This book is a special tribute to all the Baalwala viewers who have helped me
uncover the unique culture and history of Lahore. My goal is to engage and inspire
people who are curious and appreciate history. To achieve this, we offer e-books,
autographed hardcopies, and audio books in various packages to s mulate interest.
Visit www.Baalwala.com for more informa on on what we offer or just to support
us. While filming Baalwala, we found many historical places that had too much
informa on to fit into one or two vlogs.
That's why we're introducing various types of books that provide full-length stories
about historical places, events, and the people associated with them. Baalwala is not
just limited to exploring Lahore's history and heritage, but we aim to explore other
ci es worldwide that are infused with history and heritage, star ng in our own
backyard by purchasing, you've contributed to Baalwala's mission to explore other
regions and connect viewers with local cultures, living civiliza ons, material history,
and the world of ordinary people. I will always be deeply grateful to your dedica on
and openness in sharing your thoughts about Baalwala's work, and for helping me
con nue this mission for Feedback and Comments about any of my work, You can
reach me on whats app at +92 314 6263175
Thank You !

Haveli Barood Khana commonly known as Haveli

Mian Yousaf Salahuddin, Taxali Gate, Lahore
Acknowledgement
To write a book on the Walled City of Lahore could never have been
possible without the vision and determina on of the patron -in-Cheif,
Munnah Bhai, who always thinks of giving something useful to the next
genera ons. He thought of conserving history and heritage sca ered
within the thirteen gates of Lahore. He likes to tread upon the roads less
traveled by.
Rasheed Ul Hassan made our hours long walks in the Walled City much
easier by making perfect arrangements. He has the ability to convert every
step into an adventure.

Zeeshan Haider and Qamar Ali Murad used best of their skills for
photography. They never missed out on even a single old building steeped
into history. They never cared for my annoyance with repeated clicks and
kept on doing it un l they got the ones up to the mark.

Team
Baalwala

I am grateful to Aleena Salahuddin and Mumtaz

Nawaz who me culously proofread the content
and brought about many important correc ons.
They cross checked every bit of informa on given in
the book.
I am thankful to Shumaila Salahuddin who served
voluntarily as a Peer Reviewer and as a designer for
lay out of the book. Her experience of making ads in
the Jang paved a long way for the publishing of this
book.

Also I am indebted to Muzammil Ahmed, the

designer of the book who was never upset with
our confusion and rethinking me and again.
He burnt midnight oil to deliver the book in all
its details.

I am grateful to Shahzaib Ali and

Hassan Murad who put us on
the track by leading usto
relevant people, references and
places.

Bilal and Shanawar were a great

support in that they kept images
and helped day in and day out.
Thank you Bilal !
Muhammad Ashfaq kept the flair for curiosity by offering us the most
sumptuous food he is adept in making.

Last but not least important is the curiosity of our viewers who mo vated us
to write this book.

Baalwala

Well of Raja Dina Nath constructed in the 19th century. It is a wall

structured well in Wazir Khan Chowk, Delhi Gate, Lahore
 Lahore-As I Found the City in 1989
Those paths were so dear to me ...
(wordsworth)

When I came Lahore in 1989 the city was beset with strange
contradic ons. It was glowing with a flair for pop music,
sports and parallel theater while it was negligent of its
heritage, heroes and history. The people of Lahore were
proud of their friendliness, liveliness and recrea onal
temperament but they were, simultaneously, falling a prey
to religiosity and conserva sm. The influx of people from
surrounding areas were bringing their indigenous cultures,
dialects and baggage of narrow vision borrowed from Baalwala in 1989
Afghan war, Zia's Islamiza on, sectarian strife and poli cal uncertainty of 90s. Lahore
was accommoda ng everyone though it had far less to offer in terms of economic
opportuni es un l Musharraf brought dollars for the war against terrorism. Lahore
experienced ruthless suicidal bomb a acks and the concept of enlightened modera on
concomitantly. With the advent of 21st century Lahore started paying a en on to the
revival of Punjabi as a language of the soil and it started focusing on its heroes like
Maharaja Ranjeet Singh, Bhagat Singh and Dullah Bha .

Haveli Wajid Ali Shah, Bazar e Hakeeman, Bhaa Gate, Lahore

Walled City Authority was established and contracts with foreign organiza ons were
made to revive the material culture and heritage of Lahore. Department of
Archaeology and Walled City Authority have revived the forgo en tombs, shrines,
havelis and gardens in Lahore and it is fast becoming a cradle of great eras of history.

When I came Lahore, as I said, I was just 16 and I wondered at everything that was
happening here. I was amazed at every sensibility the city offered. I was astonished at
the different behavior of the populace of Lahore against poli cal upheavals, tragic
incidents, comedic happenings and everything that was unusual. Kite flying was a
passion for them, and their roofs were reserved by rela ves and friends coming from all
over the country to celebrate Basant. The sky was full of colorful kites, the roofs were
banging with heavy music, and the air was vibra ng with 'Bo Kata' sounds from
everywhere. Young kite flyers used to run in the streets to wrap the thread
hanging and falling from the roofs, antennas, balconies, and walls of the old city. I
had never been tosuch a sky shaking celebra on before. A er the night was spent in
the noise of music and humdrum, thousands of themended up in debt, but the spirit to
celebrate always won.

A Sikh era haveli inside, Mori Gate Lahore

I have spent 35 years in this city, but I am not considered a Lahorite for many reasons.
First, I was not born in the Walled City. Second, I don't know how to fly a kite. Third, I
don't speak Lahori Punjabi. Four, I don't win hard mes by resor ng to fun and humor.
Five, I don't seek pleasure in teasing my friends for their poli cal affilia ons. I wondered
at their way of life as they got up late in the day and craved for a heavy breakfast usually
sa ated with Paa'ay (Feet of goat ), Nehari, Bong and Poori Halwa together with a glass
or two of Lassi. Then they opened their shops and got seated there ll evening.
Gradually a new trend creeped in the new genera on and it was focusing on body
building. Every second young man was seen groping his own muscles walking in the
market. I wondered at their oneness against injus ce, poverty, hunger and illness. I
never saw a beggar in the Walled City as I see now.

The beggars, s ll, don't belong to the Walled City. They have come from far off areas
and speak a different Punjabi or Afghani language. This is not even Pashtu. With the fall
of dusk they would gather at thoroughfares and cemented planks outside their homes.
They would gossip, pleasantly tease, crack jokes and hurl juggats at one another.
Usually they picked on someone who flouted their code of life and ethics. They would
talk about poli cs and to much of my surprise there had been a mass mind and the
whole area would support a specific party or person not standing with the poli cal
reality or necessity. They never succumbed to violence for their

Inside Haveli Barood Khana, Taxali Gate, Lahore

respec ve affilia ons. Always they had great regard for Shaherdari
(Belongingness to the same city). Never did they express their malice against one
another in public and if it was inevitable they confided it with someone nearer to them
who further conveyed the grievance with all honesty. The women in the Walled City
were secure from the staring which had been a very common prac ce outside the
walled city. The young ones never let the older women li the shopping bags. They
picked the bags from them and carried the luggage to their doorsteps. Women would
tell the food vendors what they craved forea ng and the food vendors cooked the
cuisines of their choice. I came from Khanewal in 1989 and I was wondered at their
socializa on, value system, norms, mores, customs, enjoyments and mornings. They
had a rich tradi on of every prac ce. They s ll hold all these values but most of them
have sold out their proper es and got se led in different socie es outside The Walled
City.. I wondered when I saw them hurling juggats at men and keeping a peculiar
restraint for women. In Bazars they used to invite women to take stock of the shops,
respec ully. They always invited women to visit their shops, saying, 'A jao baji.' They
were lambs at home (Mohalla-vicinity), no ma er how great 'gangsters' they had been
outside the Walled City.

Lal Haveli, Chowk Lohari Mandi, Lahore

They were proud of their history, heroes, values, and culture. Pehalwans, rebels,
saints, and brave people were their heroes. I wondered why they got up quite late in
the morning, but they had never been in a hurry. They opened their shops at 11 a.m.
a er they were done with breakfast, which was served ll 11 a.m. This is the only
tradi on that the Walled City s ll holds together with showing respect to women. I
always found religious harmony amongst them. No Shia Sunni strife was ever seen in
the Walled City.
The big processions in Muharram were received in the Walled City, respec ully by all.
Imam Bargahs and mosques were respected by everyone without any prejudice.
People were not treated based on their social or professional background rather, they
were treated as fellow human beings. Now, a er so many years, I have visited the
Walled City again, and I dare say the values are s ll intact. But the demographic
change has made me somewhat insecure, as I find the original Lahorites have given
space to Pathan brethren coming from formerly known as tribal areas, Chitral, Swat,
and bordering areas of Afghanistan. They are doing their business, but my insecurity
lies in the fact that the emerging new business class is least interested in the history
and cultural heritage of the city. They don't even know whose haveli they are running
their tea stall in. They are least bothered about the dilapida on of the four-hundred-
year-old havelis because they are here to flourish their business only. We find old men
of the Walled City voicing for the past glory. This book has been wri en and compiled
to share the explora on of Baalwala inside the gates of Lahore. I am grateful to Mr.
Zeeshan Haider, Mr. Rasheed ul Hassan, Mr. Qamar Murad, Mr. Ali Hasan Murad, Miss
Alina Salahuddin, Mr. Hassan Murad, who helped write this book. We all are grateful
to the pa ern in chief Munnah Bhai, who came up with the idea of wri ng the book
on the thirteen gates of Lahore and facilitated us in every possible way to complete it.

A beau ful balcony inside Delhi Gate Lahore

 Preface
During the shoot of Baalwala, a You Tube channel
exploring into history, we found many havelis
steeped into history. These havelis are 300- 400 year
old and are either rented out or le una ended.
Some are owned by the tasteful people wai ng for
the Walled City Authority or any other organiza on
to conserve these havelis as museums or heritage
sites so as to a ract tourists from all over the world.
We explored every nook and corner of the Walled
city and photographed each and every balcony
inside the Thirteen Gates of the Walled city. There
are derelict temples, jain halls, sheesh Mahals,
sakawas (Wells), basements and hundreds of years
old shrines in the narrow streets of the Walled City
and these buildings can interest tourists but we have
A beautiful haveli in Koocha Ram
to conserve them lest these wonderful havelis should Duwara, inside Lohari, Lahore
be eaten away by rapid commercializa on. In this
book we have described the loca on of these buildings and have shown them in
images. We have produced videos published on Baalwala about these historical
buildings. You will find yourself surrounded with the narrow streets, peeping balconies
and smiling jharoks of Walled City while reading this book. You will find surprises of
history on every page of this book. We have walked hundreds of hours to collect these
images and informa on for our readers.
We hope this small effort will help get huge results in future. This book is an open
invita on for the investors and heritage lovers to come forward and invest in conver ng
the dying material culture of history into museums. Remember! Museums are
educa onal ins tutes that let our children connect with their ancestral heritage and
history. Study of history makes them recep ve to diversity of culture and religion. At
this juncture of me we have to develop a genera on that should embrace the whole
world with all its diverse history, heritage and progress. A er all we are the owner of the
most ancient civiliza on. Let our children be proud of their history and heritage. Let
them own mosques, temples, shrines, Gurduwaras and churches equally.
Baalwala
 Table of Content
Chapter 01
LAHORE From Gloom To Glory__________________________________ 14
Chapter 02
The Walled City of Lahore ______________________________________ 22
Chapter 03
Some Facts To Remember ______________________________________ 27
Chapter 04
Taxali Gate___________________________________________________ 31
Chapter 05
Shah Alam Gate ______________________________________________ 35
Chapter 06
Mas Gate__________________________________________________ 42
Chapter 07
Lohari Gate_________________________________________________ 47
Chapter 08
Mochi Gate _________________________________________________ 52
Chapter 09
Mori Gate __________________________________________________ 57
Chapter 10
Bha Gate __________________________________________________ 61
Chapter 11
Akbari Gate _________________________________________________ 66
Chapter 12
Roshnai Gate________________________________________________ 70
Chapter 13
Roshnai Movement-A Criminal Neglect___________________________ 74
Chapter 14
Khizri gate___________________________________________________ 80
Chapter 15
Kashmiri Gate________________________________________________ 84
Biblography _________________________________________________ 88
Index _______________________________________________________ 89
Lahore
From Gloom to Glory
CHAPTER

01 LAHORE
From Gloom to Glory

“His eyes might there command whatever stood,

City of old or modern fame, the seat,
Of mightest empire, from the des ned walls
Of Cambalu, seat of Cathian can,
And Samarcand by Oxus, Temir's throne,
To Paquin of Sinaen Kings and thence,
To Agra and Lahore of Great Mogul.”

John Milton
Paradise Lost, Bk XI, 385-9

15
Lahore is a city of sepulchre and splendour,
stupendousness and serenity, stateliness and
sublimity. It is an epitome of history reflected
materially in all its grandiose and grandeur,
glum and glee, gloom and gaiety. It has been a
cradle of different creeds and cultures for
centuries, an epicentre of diverse lingual and
communal en es, a mecca of poets and
ar stes; a thoroughfare of poli cal and literary
Akbari Gate, Lahore fort. Fig.1.1
movements; a vaudeville of music and muse, a
hub of heartliness and hermitage, a land of saints
and stoics.
We hear about a nameless city in a story told by
Hwui Li. In 630 CE. Xuanzang, a Chinese monk
travelled around India collec ng books, flowers
seeds and other relics of his Lord and Master,
the great Buddha. He wrote a book, Buddhist
Records of the Western World. Since he would
also narrate his travel stories to his acolytes, one
devoted student, the shaman Hwui Li wrote a
book, The Life of Xuanzang. Hwui Li narrates a
very interes ng story of his master's journey
from Sialkot to a nameless city route to
Jalandhar. A day's journey short of this nameless
city the pilgrims while passing through a dense
forest, were beset by robbers who took
everything of the travellers including clothes.
The day a er the robbery the caravan reached a
"great city" with several thousand dwellings. The
people of this nameless place mostly Buddhist
or some "here cs" (Jains and Hindus) were a Xuanzang, a Buddhist monk, traveled
remarkable kind and hospitable lot. They threw through Lahore in 630 CE. Fig.1.2
their differences to the wind and three hundred people of dis nc on came
forward with huge dona ons of clothes, food and drink. This city of hospitable
people was Lahore.
16
We find Lahore in Geographia of Greek
philosopher Ptolemy in 100 CE. He men ons it as
Labaka, a city some scholars think would be
Lohkot or Lavakot-the Fort of Loh or Lava. Loh
was the son of Lord Rama. Lahore s ll carries
his name.
Famous philosopher Ptolemy who
mentioned Lahore as Labaka in
100 CE. Fig.1.3

Lahore came of age in the Middle Ages when Abu Rehan Al Beruni came across
the Khyber Pass in 1017. In his Kitab Ul Hind Al Beruni men ons Lahore as
Lauhawur " East of Irawa " ( The River Ravi ).
Mehmud Ghaznavi's grandson Behram struck first
Ghaznavi coin in Lahore in 1123. It was stamped,
"Dar us Saltanat e Lahore" - capital of the kingdom
of Lahore. Lahorites heaved a sigh of relief a er
pillaging of two decades. A wall was erected and
the populace was lulled into believing that the city
was secure. Behram Ghaznavi, the grandson of
Mehmud Ghaznavi, who issued first
coin with the inscription of,
“Dar us Saltanat-e-Lahore “ on it. Fig.1.4

The city of peace and love was pillaged by Moizzudin Ghouri in 1181. Ghaznavi
ruler Khusru Malik was treated shabbily. He and his son Behram were
imprisoned and then executed in Ghazni.

Under the Ghorids, toward the end of the twel h century, Lohawar became the
place where the thrones of Sultans had been established. In 1206 Qutab ud Din
Aibak was established as Sultan at the kasr and Lahore saw an era of peace
under Aibak but he fell from horse and died.

17
A er Aibak Razia Sultana and Aibak's son in law, Altumash had a brief s nt and
they were murdered by Razia's brother.

Mongol menace was looming large over Lahore in

1241. Lahore's Turk governor Ikh aruddin
Karakash sneaked out of the city in the wake of
Mongol a ack but Lahorites stood up against
Mongols and fought gallantly. Forty thousand
Mongol cavalry men with twice as many horses
"went to hell" as Sirajuddin Minhaj men ons in
Tabqat e Nasiri. AK Sankar-White Falcon-the The Mongol attacked Lahore in early
Turkish seneschal of Lahore and Dindar 13th century and had to face defeat
at the hands of common but brave
Muhammad fought with his sons against Mongols. people of Lahore. Fig.1.5
They fought ll the then last breath. The Mongols le Lahore a smouldering ruin
and it was a er their withdrawal that the Khokhars and Gabrs (Fire worshippers)
from outlaying towns flocked into Lahore and set to plundering and destroying
what li le was le of the city.
In 1296 yet another Mongol inroad occurred under Katlagh Khawja. Delhi was
the objec ve of this campaign. Lahore certainly lay on the route but it was
spared because it had li le to offer. Khokhars con nued to hold sway and when
Tughluk was on throne, he prepared a list to chas se Rajput controlled areas
and Lahore was included in the list.
For the first forma ve centuries of its life Lahore was repeatedly ravaged by
outsiders. That should have le its people brutalised but that did not happen.
The spirit of Lahore was immensely resilient. Lahore is accused by na ves of
other ci es of always being succumbed without a fight though they did fight
when there was no choice but their way of resistance was to keep the spirit
alive. Surely, even during the shortest peaceful interlude, Lahorites would have
reverted ro their fun loving ways. The humor, the compassion, and the fellow

18
feeling never le the soul of Lahore and s ll a tangible part of Lahori character.
The spirit has now been badly dented by the ingress of outsiders to whom the
city is not the mother but a courtesan to be used for their own advancement.

In 1520 Ibrahim Lodhi's governor Daulat Khan

Lodhi treacherously invited Babur to take the city
and Lahore fell again, but thankfully not as
violently as three centuries earlier to the Mongols.
It rose soon under a Mughal feudatory. In the
decades of Lodhi reign, Lahore had become a rich
Babur attacked Lahore on 15th of
mercan le city and in 1525 while Babur was s ll in January 1524 . He ransacked the
Balkh, his administrator in Lahore sent him tribute city for four days. Fig.1.6

in gold and silver coin equivalent to twenty

thousand shahrukhis.

In February 1554 the illustrious city of Lahore

welcomed Humayun who might have considered
repaying Lahore but he got no me for it and died
within a year.

Akbar made the city a great cantonment and a

regular stopover for the journey from the Afghan
highlands to Agra which he preferred as a capital. Humayun, the son of Babur, was
warmly welcomed by Lahorites
in 1554. Fig.1.7

The Barlas Turk Tamerlane who thought plundering as lawful as his mother's
milk missed Lahore. However, in February 1400, while in Kashmir Tamerlane
sent an expedi on to Kashmir to arrest Malik Shaikha Khokhar but he submi ed

19
to the upstart savage. A li le negligence on his part invited the wrath of
Tamerlane and Lahore was plundered by Tamerlane's raiders. Sizeable ransom
was levied on the struggling populace of Lahore.

Ibn Ba uta was in this part of the world in 1330s but he to much of your
astonishment didn't men on Lahore anywhere. Multan, Deepalpur, Uch and
Tulamba were more famous and prosperous then.

The Barlas Turk Tamerlane who thought plundering as lawful as his mother's
milk missed Lahore. However, in February 1400, while in Kashmir Tamerlane
sent an expedi on to Kashmir to arrest Malik Shaikha Khokhar but he submi ed
to the upstart savage. A li le negligence on his part invited the wrath of
Tamerlane and Lahore was plundered by Tamerlane's raiders. Sizeable ransom
was levied on the struggling populace of Lahore.

A beau ful haveli which was used as a jail in Ahata Phala Nanak,
inside Lohari, Lahore

20
21
The Walled City of
Lahore
CHAPTER The Walled City of

02 Lahore
The old city of Lahore came to be known during the reign of Emperor Akbar
(1584-1598) as the walled city because it was enclosed by a nine-metre high
brick wall with a rampart. The walled city had 13 gates made of wood and
iron. They con nued to exist un l the 19th century but the Bri sh are said to
have demolished them in an a empt to weaken the defences. Almost all of
the gates, except Roshnai Gate, were pulled down and they are not in their
original form. Except for the Delhi and Lahori Gates, all of them were rebuilt
but sadly today, only six con nue to exist: Roshnai, Delhi, Shairanwalla, Bha ,
Kashmiri and Lahori gates.

23
Mori, Akbari, Mochi, Mas , Shah Alami, yakki
and Taxali gates are not there physically but
some have a concrete structure without a
wooden gate. Shah 'Almi' doesn't have any
trace of the structure as well. These gates
have been named a er certain direc ons. For
example they say Lohari Gate was actually
Lahori Gate facing Lahore and the original city
Haveli Nawab Saad Ullah Khan,
of Lahore was structured in today's Ichra Shah Alam Market. Fig 2.1
somewhere so the gate was facing Lahore and was called Lahori Gate. We find
some old temples in Ichra that tell the story of an old city. All the gates were
named a er specific direc ons.

The Roshnai Gate, or the "Gate of Light" is

between the royal mosque and the citadels.
The Kashmiri Gate is facing the direc on of
Kashmir.
The Mas Gate is not the actual name but is
rather twisted and pronounced instead of
"Masjid," which means a mosque. It was
Masjidi Gate which came to be known as
Mas Gate thanks to the easy going twist of
tongue assumed by Lahorites. They say Masjid
A derelict haveli in The Walled City of
(Mosque) a ' Maseet' in Punjabi. Lahore. Fig.2.2
The Khizri or the Sheranwala Gate. As already noted, the river in former mes
flowed by the city walls, and the ferry was near this spot. The gate was,
therefore, named Khizri, a er the name of Hazrat Khizar (A.S), the patron saint,
in Muslim belief, of running waters and streams, and the discoverer of the
water of immortality.

24
The Yakki Gate. The original name was "Zaki," which was derived from the name of
a martyr saint, who, according to tradi on, fell figh ng against the Mongol
invaders from the north, while gallantly defending his city. The story is quite
exaggerated but owned by Lahorites.
The Dehli Gate has an opening on the highway from Lahore to Delhi.
The Akbari Gate was named a er Mahomed Jalal-ud-din Akbar, who rebuilt the
town and citadels.
The Mochi Gate is the name wrongly pronounced. It was named was actually Mo
meaning a pearl. It was called so a er the name of Mo Ram, an officer of Akbar,
who resided here at that me. There is another story of the name described in the
chapter on Mochi Gate.
The Shah 'Almi Gate was named a er Muhammad Mo'azzam Shah 'Alam Bahadur
Shah (the son and successor of Aurangzeb). He was a mild and generous Emperor,
who died in Lahore on the 28th February 1712.
The Lahori Gate is also known as the Lohari gate and a version of a story says Lohari
is named a er the blacksmiths who worked here. S ll there are many blacksmiths
working in Chowk Jhanda (Flag).

The Mori Gate is the smallest of the gateways and as its name implies, was in old
mes used as an outlet for the refuse and sweepings of the city but this story is
against the facts. On the other hand we find Mori gate a place where sacred rituals
were performed . In the chapter on Mori Gate the readers will get the detail.
The Bha Gate was named a er the Bha s, an ancient Rajput tribe who inhabited
these quarters in old mes.
The Taxali Gate was named a er the Taxol or royal mint, which used to be in its
neighbourhood during the period of the Muslim Emperors.

Richness of Lahore lies in the vivacity, hospitality, kindness and sense of humor the
people living inside these gates have. Lets explore the culture and history of these
gates.

25
26