Crocheted Dragon Amigurumi

Written by @LouiesLoops. Produced by Club Crochet

The Materials: The Stitches:

•The Yarn (Worsted Weight) ch Chain Stitch
- Color A (Main Color) st Stitch
- Color B (Secondary Color) inc Increase (sc 2 in one st)
- White (Face and Claws)
slst Slip Stitch
- Black (Face detail)
•Size G6/4.00mm Hook FLO/BLO Front/Back Loop Only
•6mm Safety Eyes x 2 sc Single Crochet
•Stuffing invdec Invisible Decrease
•Needle sc2tog Single Crochet 2 Together
hdc Half-Double Crochet
Gauge : 5 Rnds and 4 sts per 1” dc Double Crochet
Finished piece is about 11” long tr Tripple (Trebble) Crochet
sbo Spiked Bobble Stitch
Worked in the Round without turning mp Mini Picot
(ch 2, skip 1 ch, slst 1 in the BLO)
Pattern Video:
Use these to go directly to a tutorial
www.ClubCrochet.com/DR4GNZ

Numbers in parentheses, ie: (7:47),

pertain to the time codes on the video.

Table of Contents:
Arms 2
Legs and Wings 3
Teeth, Lip, and Spikes 4
Head 5
Body 6-7

*Note: This pattern is interactive with checkmarks and links to videos.

1
It is best used when opened in a program or app rather than a browser window.
 (07:20) How to crochet the Spiked Bobble (aka “sbo”):
Step 1: Step 2: Step 3:

Work 2 double crochet into one With the loops still on the hook, Work 1 more double crochet
stitch, leaving the last loop of work a mini picot (ch 2, sl.st into into one stitch, leaving the last
each on the hook. the 2nd ch from the hook) loop of each on the hook.

Step 4: Yarn over and draw through all the loops on the hook.

Pattern starts here

Arms (make 2) (05:13)
[All in Color A] Magic loop

Rnd 1: sc 1, sbo 1, sc 1, sbo 1, sc 2, sbo 1, sc 1, into the magic loop (8)

Rnd 2 - 4: sc in each st (8 x 3)

Rnd 5: sc 2, invdec 1, sc 4 (7)

Rnd 6 - 7: sc in each st (7 x 2)

Rnd 8: sc 2, invdec 1, sc 3 (6)

Rnd 9 - 10: sc in each (6 x 2)

Slst 1, cut the yarn and pull through leaving

enough to sew it onto the body.

Note: To make your arms pose-able, cut a pipe

cleaner in half, fold in half and twist it up, leaving
half an inch for connecting to the body. Stuff this
into the arm prior to sewing to the body.

2
Legs (make 1 Right and 1 Left) (24:33)
[All in Color A] Magic loop

Rnd 1: sc 1, sbo 1, sc 1, sbo 1, sc 2, sbo 1, sc 1, worked into the magic loop (8)

Rnd 2: sc in each st (8)

Note: 3R is for the right leg
Rnd 3R: hdc 1, sc 2, slst 3, sc 1, slst 1 (8)
3L is for the left leg, make 1 of each.
Rnd 3L: slst 2, sc 2, hdc 1, sc 2, slst 1 (8)

Cut the yarn leaving a long enough end to sew onto the
body and pull through.

Wings (make 2) (32:40)

[All in Color A] Ch 23

Row 1: turn, skip the first ch and sc in each ch across (22)

Row 2: turn, ch 1, sc in each st across (22)

Fold a pipe cleaner in half and twist up leaving about half an inch untwisted to use for
attaching to the body. You will be working around this in Row 3.

Row 3: turn, ch 2 and pull tight, working into both loops and into the other side of the chs
you worked into for Row 1, slst in each. Make sure to work around a twisted pipe cleaner as
you go so that it is in between the fold. (22)
mp = mini picot
[Change to Color B] (*optional) (ch 2, skip 1 ch, slst 1 in the back loop)

Row 4: turn, ch 1, working into the slsts from Row 3, sc 3, mp, hdc 2, dc 1, tr 1, mp, tr 7,
dc 1, sc2tog 3, slst 1 (19 + 2 mp, stoping 1 early)

Row 5: turn, skip the slst, sc 1,

hdc 1, dc 1, tr 1, mp, tr 1, dc 1,
hdc 1, sc 2, slst 1 (10 +1 mp)

Cut and pull through.

Add this onto the body by

twisting the ends of the pipe
cleaner into the body then
using the tail end to sew it on.
3
Teeth (make 2) (56:38)
[All in White
White] Ch 3

Pull tight, working in the BLO of the 1st ch made, sc 1.

Ch 1, cut the yarn and pull through. Use these two ends to sew on the face under the lip.

Lip (make 1) (57:40)

[All in Color A] Ch 14

Cut the yarn leaving a long end and pull through. Sew onto the face under the eyes after
Rnd 8 of the Body.

Spikes (optional) (58:30)

[All in Color B] Ch 3

Step 1: skip the first ch and pull tight, working in the BLO sc2tog in the next 2 chs

Step 2 - 9: ch 4, skip the first ch and pull tight, working in the BLO sc2tog in the next 2 chs

Ch 1, cut the yarn and pull through leaving a long end to sew onto the back. There should be
10 spikes total.

4
 Head (1:02:00)
[All in Color A] Magic loop

Rnd 1: sc 8 in magic loop (8)

Rnd 2: sc 3, inc 2, sc 3 (10)

Note: Consider changing to Color B for the nostrils (Rnd 3)

and sbo stitches (Rnd 7) to make a more pronounced facial
features.

Rnd 3: sc 4, nostril (working over Rnd 3 and into Rnd 2, dc 1), sc 1, nostril, sc 3 (10)

Rnd 4 - 6: sc in each (10 x 3)

Rnd 7: sc 5, sbo 1, sc 1, sbo 1, sc 2 (10)

Note: For the sbo stitches in Rnd 7, try working into

the stitches from Rnd 5 (1 round above). This gives
your dragon more fierce eyebrows.

Rnd 8: sc 1, invdec 1, sc 7 (9)

(1:17:40) Add the face. Eyes go can go anywhere between Rnds 4 and 7. I like to put them
beneath the sbo stitches from Rnd 7. I also like to embroider on a small strand of yarn just
under each eye to add more emotion to the eyes, like he’s been hoarding gold for centuries.

(1:20:08) Sew on the mouth over the front of the face using a ch for each Rnd. Start under
the left eye, over the very center, and around to just under the other eye. Use the sbo stitches
as guides and try to keep it ending in the same Rnd but on the opposite side. You can use
this as an opportunity to add a smile or frown to your dragon!

Sew on the teeth on either side of the mouth using the two tail ends into two adjacent
stitches, pulled tightly so that their knots are just poking through the inside, and double
knotted.

5
Body (1:37:04)
Continuing from the Head...

Rnd 9: sc 1, invdec 1, sc 6 (8)

Rnd 10: sc in each st (8)

Rnd 11: [sc 2, invdec] repeat 2 times (6)

Rnd 12 - 15: sc in each st (6 x 4)

Rnd 16: [sc 2, inc] repeat 2 times (8)

Rnd 17 - 18: sc in each st (8 x 2)

Rnd 19: [sc 1, inc] repeat 4 times (12)

Rnd 20: sc in each st (12)

Rnd 21: [sc 3, inc] repeat 3 times (15)

Rnd 22: sc in each st (15)

Note: Use a pipe cleaner cut in half and twisted
Rnd 23: [sc 4, inc] repeat 3 times (18) up on the inside of the arms as a sort of skeleton
attached to the body before sewing on the arms
over it to make your arms pose-able!
Rnd 24 - 26: sc in each st (18 x 3)

(1:52:37) Sew on the arms between Rnds 20 and 22 on the bottom of the body.

Stuff the head fully. Use a pipe cleaner twisted in half in the neck to make it pose-able.

(2:06:00) Attach the wings just above the arms by using the two ends of the pipe cleaner
through two adjacent stitches, and twisted on the inside. Then use the tail end to sew the
edge of the wings stitches to the body.

Rnd 27: sc 9, [sc 1, invdec] repeat 3 times (15)

Rnd 28: sc 9, invdec 3 (12)

Rnd 29: sc in each st (12)

Sew on the legs to the bottom of your dragon just under the arms between Rnds 25 and 27
using the two tail ends. Make sure to stuff them slightly before finishing sewing and be sure
they are pointed forwards with the two toes closest to each other facing forwards.
6
Body (2:24:20)
Continued...

Rnd 30: sc 10, invdec 1 (11)

Rnd 31: sc in each st (11)

Rnd 32: sc 9, invdec 1 (10)

Rnd 33: sc in each st (10)

Rnd 34: sc 8, invdec 1 (9)

Rnd 35: sc in each st (9)

Stuff the body mostly.

Rnd 36: sc 7, invdec 1 (8)

Rnd 37: sc in each st (8)

Rnd 38: sc 6, invdec 1 (7)

Rnd 39: sc in each st (7)

Rnd 40: sc 5, invdec 1 (6)

Rnd 41: sc in each st (6)

Stuff fully here. Use a cut pipe cleaner twisted in half for a pose-able tail.

Rnd 42: sc 4, invdec 1 (5)

Rnd 43: sc in each st (5)

Cut the yarn and pull through. Sew the tail closed.

(2:36:40) Sew on the spikes along the back of the dragon by using the long tail end sewn
through the Rnds along the back, and around the chs connecting the adjacent spikes. I like to
start two Rnds after the sbo stitches from the head, and go down 2 Rnds for the first 2 spikes,
then 3 Rnds for the remaining spikes. Use the other tail end to fasten the last spike into the
body and exit with both ends from an adjacent stitch, double knot tightly, cut and stuff in
with the end of a needle.
7
 Thank you so much!!
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