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Key Items Fashion: Men's

Shirts & Woven Tops S/S 24


A new sense of masculinity and an embrace of directional
fashion help to define S/S 24's crop of key fashion shirts and
woven tops

Noah Zagor
11.24.22 - 5 minutes

Hortense
The art print long-sleeved
shirt
Why is it key? While art and fashion have never
been complete strangers, a recent surge in
directional looks on the streets and the catwalks
allows for a further blurring of the line between
the two, tracking as #ArtInFashion on the
WGSN Fashion Feed.
Design details: the foundation here is a
relatively standard long-sleeved woven shirt.
However, the synergy between different types
@kidsuper The Void x andWander
of art referenced in the print and silhouette is
key. Look for looser bodies with square hems
for prints that have a handmade quality, with
obvious #Brushstrokes or a monochromatic
#Doodle. Use ethical silk or viscose to
emphasise a relaxed and refined lack of
structure. Stiffer cottons and some tech
materials will shine with more detailed art
prints including life-like paintings and even
some photographs. Regardless of which specific
direction, it's key to look for versions that
resonate and align with your market's
sensibilities.

Palm Angels Shinya Kozuka WGSN Original CADs/Flats

1
The out-of-office office shirt
Why is it key? The trend towards subverting
traditional officewear continues to gain steam,
with items such as neckties and standard
striped shirts speaking directly to a market
looking to define themselves in the post-
pandemic grey space between fashion, irony,
work-from-home casualness and actual
professional office attire.
Design details: it's easy here to simply rely on
styling to get this message across, but subtle
F***ing Young! F***ing Young!
details and silhouette adjustments are what
make the style a fashion piece. Oversized
bodies, asymmetrical hems and hidden plackets
are the types of touches that set this style apart
from its core counterparts, even when playing
with conservative patterns and colours like
bengal stripes and light blue. Washed-in
varieties add a vintage character that will play
well to larger audiences, while a more starched
stiffness will work to enhance the directional
feel and make the style more purposeful.

Kanemasa Alexander McQueen WGSN Original CADs/Flats

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The fashion-detail shirt
Why is it key? We've been tracking the rise of
the #RedefiningMasculinity trend as a major
driver for current menswear, and this overtly
directional style plays into that trend. From the
catwalks to red carpets and the streets, men are
more willing to embrace inventive and
decorative details than in the recent past.
Design details: there are many ways to delve
into these nontraditional styles, but across the
category, the unifying factor is the use of a
NTN Alexander McQueen
classic style as a blank canvas to incorporate
design twists. Tie details, metallic
embellishments, #Spliced materials, oddly
placed seams, and #ModularDesign
components all work to morph the relatively
mundane into something bold and exciting.
What's more, these types of details can work on
crisp, smart shirts for a luxe directional feel or
on casual, oversized styles for more streetwear-
friendly slant.

i'm here The Virdi-Anne WGSN Original CADs/Flats

3
The tunic
Why is it key? The tunic has been gaining in
popularity over the last few seasons and is once
again on the list of key shirts and woven tops.
With #RedefiningMasculinity and a broader
acceptance of #SkirtsForAnybody seemingly
driving much of menswear, tunics with nearly
dress-like proportions have entered the fray,
pushing the style further into directional
territory.
Design details: as alluded to above, longer and
Robes & Confections Shinya Kozuka
fuller tunics that can take on the appearance of
a dress represent newness in the style. These
can be popovers or button-front shirts, the
latter of which isn't unlike a women's shirt
dress. The long-line body of a tunic offers room
to incorporate pockets – on the side seams and
or as patch pockets on the front – as well as
larger prints and graphics for increased visual
interest.

Nude: Masahiko Maruyama Palm Angels WGSN Original CADs/Flats

4
The sheer shirt
Why is it key? Another trend that owes much of
its success to shifting male attitudes, the
traditionally womenswear material has been
adopted by a range of designs, collections and
brands while continuing to evolve.
Design details: while #Openwork and lace have
become more widely accepted over the past
several seasons, new ways of exploring #Sheers
begin to emerge. Look for lightweight, gauzy
and silk-like fabrics that offer some
Unused Apocrypha
translucence, even in dark colours. Use more
opaque materials in conjunction with the
sheers to create pattern, depth and contrast.
This works especially well in monochromatic
takes on the style. As for silhouette details,
camp collars, band collars and traditional
collars all work, as do round and square hems.
However, make sure to look for loose
silhouettes that allow the light and flow-friendly
materials to move and breathe on the wearer.

Shinya Kozuka PERTE D'EGO WGSN Original CADs/Flats

5
Range plan

Art print long-sleeved shirt Out-of-office office shirt Fashion-detail shirt Tunic Sheer shirt

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Action points

Explore new expressions of Always consider sustainability Pump up the volume Embrace fashion with a capital
masculinity and the #CircularEconomy 'F'

The one overarching theme that keeps Woven tops offer plenty of opportunities While knitwear and cut-and-sew tops Menswear can frequently rely on
repeating here is to embrace green and more Earth- have been slimming down as of late – endless permutations and twists on
#RedefiningMasculinity. At its core this friendly materials and practices. Look to even to #SecondSkin levels – woven tops classic styles. And, while that is present
looks to embrace a fuller spectrum of materials such as viscose and lyocell for still feel more modern and on-trend in here, if the catwalks and streets are any
what exactly it is to be a man in the alternatives to synthetics, or use rPET wider and looser fits indication, increasingly directional and
modern world. Push these boundaries recycled nylon. Ethical silks, certified original designs are filtering into a
via sheer materials, dress-like organic cottons and bast fibre fabrics larger market
construction and delicate details are just some of the materials that will
increase #Sustainability

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