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American Aníiquarian Society.

[April,

NOTK BY THE COMMITTEE OF PUBLICATION.

THB paper by Mr. Louis H. AymC, U. B. A. Consul at Yucatan, whicii


treats of thc ruins of Mitla, was received too late to allow of its pre-
sentation to the Society at tliclr last meeting, but it is now published
because it treats oí thc archœology of a portion of the Continent
where investigations are being made and public curiosity is largely
excited, and is nearly allied to comninnicatious previously published.
It is only by comparing the statements of different explorers that we cau
obtain satisfactory material for forming a deliberate judgment, and in
order to fnrnish such matter as has come to onr hands promptly for
the consideration of those interested in archœological research, it has
been thought best not to (lelay the publication of this paper. We arc
indebted to Mr. Stephen Salisbury, Jr., for making a translation from
Burgoa's description of Mitla, which was sent to us in the originai
vSpanish.

NOTES ON MITLA.
HY L0ÜI8 II. ATMÉ.

An itinerary of a journey taken by the writer in Jaly, 1881, may not


be uninteresting as an introduction to a notice of the famous ruins oí"
Mltla.
The point of departure is Esperanza, on the Vera Crtiz railway. You
leave there at 10.30 A. M. iu a horse-ear, aud ride 50 kilometres to
Tehuacan, arriving about 3 P. M. Fare SI.50. The fare to Esperanza
is about $8 from cither Vera Cruz or Mexico. The next morning at 3
o'clock, you take a frightfuily uncomfortable stage, and for thirteen
wretched honrs you are banged and bumped until you are ready to
welcome the sight of Tecomavaca, at 4.30 P. M. There is a wretched
hotel there where you become acquainted with the plague of Oaxaca—
fleas. If you have been wise you have written to Don Constantino
Rickets, an Englishman, and asked him to send Santos Gomez (the
])rince of guides) with the necessary lior.se.'^ to meet you there, or if you
prefer you may have a litter swung betweeu two mules, fore and aft, as
a eailor would say. Gomez will charge you SI per day for each horse
1882.] Kotes on Mitla. 83
and ^2 a day for himseif. You set out at 5 A. M., enter the mountains,
if you are enthusiastie turn oif and half ride, half walk, a league or two,
and visit the curious ruina of tbe Cerro de las Junta.«. I did, nnd you
have some of the results, and I wiil send you later ¡i paper on this and
other ruins in Oaxaca. On the road it is broiling hot, but the scenery is
simply magnificent. If it Is a clear day you wiil probabiy catch a
glimpse of the topmost peak of Orizaba, 150 miles away. At 12 M. hot
and hunjjry, you stop at the sugar hacienda of Giiendulain (27 miles),
have !i!i excellent breakfa.st and sleep as well as the million.s of Hies will
let you until 3.30 P. M. Then lo miles more and you arc at the pic-
turesque little town of Dominguillo at 6 P. M. You are in the heart of
the mountains, and can see the road yon are to travel to-morrow
stretching up, up, up until it is lost among the peaks. You sleep well,
o»ill, according to your suseeptibility to flea-bites. The next day is a
repetition of the day before, except that you should bring your breakfast
with you. You reach Huitzo at about 5 P. M. (54 miles). Next morning
you ride through the glorious valiey of Oaxaca, stop aside at Etla and
visit the mounds of the Cerro de las Peñas, and at 11 A. M. you ride
through the stony streets of Oaxaca to the hotel opposite the cathedral,
where you rest, wash ofl' the dust of travei ami take a good breakfast. If
you wish to go directly to Mitla, you either keep your horses, or, better
still, hire a carriage extra. That eosts about iJlO. Mitla is distant about
30 miles to the southeast. About half way you stop at Santa Maria del
Tule to see the wonderfully large tree; it has been looming on the
horizon for miles. It is large. I measured it I'oughly; Its circum-
ference following the sinuosities in and out five feet from the ground is
146 feet; outside all, 104 feet; spread (diameter) of foliage, HI feet;
long diameter of trunk, 40 feet; short diameter of trunk, 20 feet;
height, about lflO feet. Then on to Mitla. You reach the little village
about 4 P. M., drive up to the lovely house of Don Felix Quero, are
heartily welcomed by him, by his comely wife and pretty daughters.
You take a dinner (the best you will get in Oaxaca) in a rose-covered
corridor, walk out about six minutes, cross a little stream, double the
corner of a ruined mound, and Mitla is before you. The "tourist"
could "do it" in one hour, but we should find diiys not enough. Mitla
is not so grand, so magnifleent as Uxmal, but it has a beauty of its own,
as it uestlus (¡uietiy at the foot of the mighty mountains, the ruins of the
glim " Fortin " standing sharp against the evtming sky, and as tho sun
sinks, cjisting soft, lingering rays athwart the cruam and red mosaics,
one might fancy he heard the weird chant of the priests, the iament of
the mourners for the dead who rest in "Lyobaa," "The Centre of
Rest," It is full of interest, and the careful, earnest worker could in
one short month collect a vast amount of information about Mitla.
The library of the Institute at Oaxaca is rieh, very rich, in old books
and papers, and there is a treasure there for some archreoiogist.
When I shall have flnished my work here in Yucatan I should like to go
there once more. The memories of the beautiful idols of stone, pot-
84 American Antiquarian Society. [April,
tcry and metal, the wonderful hollow castings of pure gold, the oudis-
covered mines of archreoiogical treasures to be gathered are very
tempting.
Mr. Ad. F. Bandeiier in his " Notes on the Bibliography of Yncatnn and
Central America" (Proceedings of the American Antiqnarian Society,
October 21, 1880, p. llG), speaks of tbe work of Francisco dc Biirgoa,
which treats of Mithi, entitled GeogriVIca Descripción de la Parte
Septentrional de! Polo Ártico lic la Amfiiica, M6xico, 1G74, and -fays of
it : " This work is regarded (especially by such as have not ween it) as
the leading work on Oajaca. I have never seen It—it is exceedingly
rare." It may be weil to introduce the plans and measurements sent
herewith by this earliest description of Mitla. The portion given in
translation is from Vol. IL, Part 2, Chap. 53.

BURGOA'S DESCRIPTION.
"Two leagues beyond this (Tlacolula), stretching out towards the
east upon levei ground is the celebrated town of all Zapoteen, called
Mictia in the Mexican, and it resembles the inferno from the depths
which arc there. The natives there call it Lyobaa, the centre of rest,
which blind politeness so ridiculed as to call hell a rest * * • •
and even this doctrine and the administration of this town does not
affect this province, because it is a lay benefice, being the sepulchre of
the kings of Zapoteca.
" I have promised to say something of its greatness, and to be the first
to speak also iu respect to Tctycpaq, of what I have learned from the
papers whicii have come Lo iny hand, and from the traditions of aged
Indians who iieard them from their great reiigious leaders, and as to
those things in which there ia much similarity still existing there.
" This town of Mitla Is situated seven or eight ieagnos from the city of
Antiquera, stretching towards the east on level grouud, and its situa-
tion ia at the foot of the mouutainous range of Tentitlan thut runs very
near it, and the town stands upon an einiucnce somewhat higher than
the valley through which passes a smali river that traverses it. Upon
the north side the land is very dry and stony, and as respects its
antiquity, nature or the universal deluge have left there a great hollow,
of which the Devil took possession, aud the Indians arriving to populate
this place, he ruled them from the large rock of Xaquija or Tentitlan,
and in the Miztecan country he nsed the cave of Chaicacatougo to bury
their chiefs, and this place for the chiefs of the Zapotecas, where Satan
planted the greatest multitude of errors and abominations against, the
head of the Roman world, and against tiic sacred Apostolic seat of the
Vicar of Christ and successor of St. Peter, introducing a superior head
as regards the worship of his gods, which we cail ecclesiastical jurisdic-
tion, with splrituai and temporal power over the chiefs and the people.
"Although many of the kings of Jerusalem were anointed as priests,
as happened to the prophet Samuei, with Saul and David who came
,beforc him, in Mexico the emperors could chastize them. Here the
1882.] Mtes on Mitla. 85
highest priests were absolute and Independent, so that the kiugs of
Teozapotlan entertained veneration and respect towards them, con.
sidering them to be so near to the gods, as instruments tit to order for
all favors and chaslisomeuts, both the one and the other- They held
the belief that the priest could alone be the mediator in all their troubles
and dilliculties, which were so constnutly occurring. The whip of this
superior priest waf* like that of a dissembling foreign tyrant, whose
orders and mandates were executed at the cost of their blood. For the
support ol this one they erected the palace ol' the living aud the dead,
because wise as the Devil waa, he desired to act agaiust the authority
of the Pope, aud gave indulgences to the livius and conceded favors and
concessions and remission of sins to the d<-ail. They built in this square
this beautiful house or Pantiicou, with stories aud subterraneans, lhe
latter in the concavity which was found under the earth, o<|uidling in
style the halls which onelose it, having a spaeious eourt; and to build
the four equal halls they worked with what foi'cc aud industry they
eould secure from a barbarous people.
" It is not known from what quarry they could cut such great pillars of
stone, that with ililllculty two men could embrace them with their arms
extended. These, although without capital or pedestal, straight and
smooth, are more than tive yards long composed each of ii single stone,
and served to sustain the roof. The roof was of ñat stones two yards
or more long, aud one broad, and half a yard thick, laid upon lhe pillars
successively. The Hat stones are so much alike and so well adjusted
one to the other, that without mortar or eemcnt they appear in their
construction like tables brought together. The four halls are very
spacious, covered in the same way with this kind of roof. The walls
excelled iu execution the work of the most skilied artificers of the
world, so tliat neither the Egyptians nor the Greeks have written of thi8
kind of arehilectnre, because they beg.in at the lowest foun<lations and
followed upwards, spreadins out into the form of a crown, which pro-
jects from the roof iu breadth aud ajjpears likely to fall.
" The centre ol'the walls is of acemeutso strong ihat w(! do unt know
with what liquid it was made. The surface is of such a singular cou-
struction that it shows something like a yard of stones. The sculptured
blocks serve to hold innumerable little white stones that till it, beglu-
ning with the sixth part of an ell and the half of an ell wide and the
quarter part of an ell thick, so smooth aud similar that it seema as if
they were made iu a mould. Of these there was so great a variety, and
they were so eonnecte<l oue with the other, that various showy pictures
an ell wide each, the length of the hall, wore constructed with a vai'ietv
of decoration ou each as high as the capital. And it was so neat that it
exceeded the description, and what has caused astouishmeni to great
architects was tho adjustment of these little stones without mortar or
any histruments. They worketl them with hard ñluts and sand aud
produceil a buildius of so mueh strength that, being very old and beyond
the memory of the liviug, it has lasted lo our times. I suw it much at
86 Amei'ican Antiquarian Society. [April,
my ease thirty years ago. The rooms above were of the same style and
size with those below, and although portions were somewhat ruined
because a<»me of the stones had been carried away, they were very
worthy of consideration. The door frames were very capacious, com-
posed of a single stone of the tirK:kne.>i.s of the wall at each side. The
lintel or architrave was a single stone which held the two below.
" Tiiere were four halls above and four below. They were divided in
this way; That iu front served as a chapel and sanctuary for the idols,
which were placctl on a larye stone that »erveil as an altar at the great
feasts or at the funeral of some kiug anil principal chief. The Superior
gave notice to the iesser priests or inferior officers that they should
arrange the vestments and decorate the chapel, and prepare the incense.
They went dowu with a yreiit escort without any of the people seeing
them, nor was it ever permitted theui to turn their faces toward the
procession, being persuaded that they would fall dead in the act of dis-
obedience. Upou eiiteriug the chapel the priest put on a large white
cotton robe, and another one embroidered with figures of beasts and
birds in the manner of a surplice or chasuble. Upon his head he had
.something after the style of a mitre, and upon the feet auother invention
woven with threa<i.s of different colors, and thus clothed he came with
great poinp ami fircumstance to the altar. Milking great obeisance to
the idols he renewed the inceiiMe, ami bf^gan to talk very mntli ber.wi^en
his teeth wit,h tlu'Se figures, the depositories of infernal spirits. In this
kind of communication he continned with these (Informed and liorriti
objects, that held all overcome with terror and amazement until he
recovered from his diaboiieal trance, and told the spectators all the
fictions au(i orders which the spirit had persuaded him of. or which he
had invented.
" When he wa.s obliged to make human sacrifices, the ceremonies were
doubled and the assistants bent the victim across a great stone, and
opening the breast with some knives of Hint they tore it apart with
horrible contortions of the body, and laying bîire i.he heart they tore it
out with the soul for the Demon. They carried tlie heart to the Chief
Priest that he might oß'er it to the idois, putting it to their mouths with
other cereinouies. The body they threw into the sepulchre of the
blessed, as they called it. If after the sacriQce any one wished to
detain those who olllciated, or to demand some favor, he wa.s Informed
by the inferior pi-iests thiit he could not go to his house uutil his ^'ods
were appeased, eommaiiüing him to practice penance, fasting without
speaking to any woman but only to the priest. To one doing penance
for vices honesty was requii'eLl, and untii he declared that he praetised
it he was not allowed to depart from the enclosure.
" One hall was the buriul place of tliese priests, and nnother hall was for
the kings of Theozapotliin, who brought decoration-, of the best gar-
nents, feathers, jewels, and chains of goid with precious stones, arming
them with a shield In the left hand and in the right a sword, like those
they used in their wars. Duriug the funeral rites they played upou very
1882.] Noteíi on Mitla. 87
sad and dolorous instruments, and with grievous lamentations and great
sobbing they went on chanting the life and cxpioits of their chief, until
they placed him upon thc funeral pile intended for hiiti. The last hall
had another door at tho rear into an obseure und roaiTul opening tiuit
was cioscd with a great ¡stone to shut the entire entrance, and into it
they threw the bodies of those that they had sacrillced, and also those
of great chiefs or captains that liad been killi-d iu battle, from wliencc
they brought them, although froui a great disl.anee, for the purpose of
burving them thure. Here was practised the blind barbarity of the
Iudiaus. The wickeii priests taught those who were sußering from
iiiliriulties or IVom their labors Ihiit here they might hope for a happy
iifc, and they let them in alive among those sacrihced, aliowing them to
enter by tliat door and walk abont In that terrible space, seeking repose
among their ancestors; aud allowing this by favor they withdrew the
attendants and departing by th:it opening, tliey iigain replaced the stoue.
The miserabic creature then wanderiui; about in that dark abyss
perished of hunger and thirst ; the sulferings to wliich he was con-
demued beginning at the tiun: when he was ieñ. To this terrible place
they gave the name Liyobaa, from that of the town.
" Since imparting to them the light of the Gospel our professors have
taken much care in teaching them and in seeking to learn if the common
errors of these people wert: perpetuated by their fabulons traditions.

"The high rooms remained open which surrounded the square and
other hall.s which were below, and the reinain.s exist to the present
time. One high hall was the palace of the Chief Priest, in which he
gave audienee and slept, which occupied the whole square. The
throne was of the height of a cushion, with arms covered with tiger
skins and stufled with small .soft feathers or very pliable grass adapted
to that use. The other seats were smaller. When the Klug eame to
visit him, such was the authority of this minister of the Devil that no
one dared to pass through thc square, and to avoid it they had the other
thiee halls with gates at the rear through which the olRcers entered
both above and below. They ha<i outside passages and alleys for
entering and going out IVom an audience. These priests never married
and held no commerce with women except on certain aoiemn occasions,
which they ceiebrated witii much drinking and over-indulgence. Un-
married women were brought to them, and if any of them became
enceinte, she was kept retired until the birth of thc child. If a boy
was born he was brought up as the successor of the priest, which office
belonged to the son or next of kin, and never was eieetive.
" The second hall was that of the priests and their assistants. The
third that of the King when he came, and the fourth that of the other
leaders and captains. The space being limited for so many different
and various househoids, they couformed themselves to circumstances
without preferences or partiality; no oue having any jurisdiction there
except the Chief Priest, whose authority was supreme over all.
88 American Antiquarian Society., [April,
" All the halls were well covered with mats nnd very clean. No one,
not even of the highest ofiicers, was permitted to sleep in the upper
rooms. Ali used very curious mats upon the ground, with the soft
skins of animals and delicate fabrics to cover themselves. Tlieir food
was ordinarily animals from the mounlains—deer, rabbits and other
sorts,—togetlier witli birds, which they abtaincd in the lake.s or artificiai
ponds. Their bread was from while corn meal well crushed. Their
drinks were always cold, of crushed cocoa, and of gruel diluted with
water; others were from fermented fruits aud froui orange juice stirred
np with the wine of the maguey. As the people had no permission to
drink, nor to become drunkeu, there was a great abundance of drink.
And as there were so many beverages and so few to use them they
never were able to exhaust the supi)Iy, the prie.^ts therefore drank very
costly drinks to excess with free license, more than the chiefs in their
best estate. This was the most contiigions and injurious practice of
the Iudians, as it consumed their properties, wasted their hcaith and
whorteued their lives. All this notice of Mitla is introdnced into this
history in order not to fail in performing the promise previously made,
even though it concerns a profane and superstitious error, the most
vital which I have discovered about this nation."

MEASURES OF BUILDINGS AT MITLA.


SouTU Guoup. BUILDING NO. 1.
Present outside length, 88 ft. 6 in. ; width, 19 ft. 3 in. approximately.
Original inside length, 83 ft. 4 in. ; width, 8 ft. 11 in. Thickness vf front
and back walls, 5 ft. 4 iu. ; side, 2 ft. 7 in, approximately. Width of
doorways, 7 ft. 2 in. Wall between doorways, 7 ft. From Westend,
ontside, to west end of west doorway, 2(\ ft. 9 in. From east end, out-
side, to east end of east doorway, 2G It. 3 in. Present height, inside,
9 ft. 10 in. approximately, from top of west door lintel ; outside, 12 ft.
very rough wall, much ruiued at top. Height of doorways, 6 ft. 6 in.
Monoliths, consisting of two door-jambs, at extreme east and west ends
of extreme doorways. Height, fi ft. 6 in. ¡ breadth, 5 ft. 4 in. ; thick-
ness. 1 ft. 51 in., and three Lintels :
l.ENQTU. UBBADTU. , nnOKK EBB. ,
Ou top. At bottom.
East, 14 a. s in. 4 ft. 10 in. 3 ft. 5 in. 5 ft. 5 lu.
Centre, 14 " 10 " 4 " 10 " 3 " 7 " 5 " 6 "
West, 12 " 6 " 4 " 10 " 3" 2" 6 " 5 "
Directly opposite centre doorway in north wall about 3 feet from
fioor is a sijuare recess, of large stones, measuring about 2 ft. long, 1
It. 3 in. high and 1 ft. C in.' deep.
SUBTBltRAKICAN APAIITMICNTS.
Pillar. Height, (i ft. 4 in. (the height of ail of the rooms) ; circumfer-
ence, 5ft. Gi iu. Room B. Length, 12 ft. 3in. ; width, 5 ft. 2à in. Room C.
Length, 18 ft. 2 in. ; width, 5 ft. U in. Room D. Length, 18 ft. 2 in. ;
width, 5 ft. 14 in. Height of all, 6 n. 4 iu.
1882.] Notes on Mitla.

F= —

Ê5^ Soi.

^ ^

A
o B
||||||l

c
^ ^ ü—_^
• E

PLAN OK SUIÍTERUANEAN APAKTMISNTO.

jiiLAH SKCTIÜK, THRUUGII C. I)., v'de No. 3.


12
90 American Antiquarian Society. [April,
BUILDING NO. 2.
Outside length, 130 ft., approximate; width, 88 ft. Inside leugth, 121
ft. 3 in. ; width, ^3 ft. Average height, 17 ft. 6 in. Thickness of front
wall, 5 ft. Height of doorways, 0 ft. 10 in.
MoiioUths. Door-Jambs each, height, 6 ft. 10 in. ; breadth, 6 ft. ; thick-
ness, 1 ft. 6 iu.
Lintels.—
South. Length, 19 ft. 7 in. Breadth, 3 ft. 3 iu. Thickness, 4 ft. 9 Iu.
Centre. " 18 " 9 " " 3 " 4 " " 4 •' 9 "
North. " 20 " " 3 " 3 " " 4 " 9 "
Niche opposite centre door. Ileight fi'om ground, 3 It. Height, 1 ft.
6 in. ; width, 2 ft. 3 in. ; depth, 1 ft. 9 in.
BUILDING NO. 3
Is identical in measurements with No. 2, except as regards the
monoliths. Jambs.—Height, 6 ft. 8 in. ; breadth, 5 ft. 3 in. ; thickness,
1 ft. 7 in.
Lintels.—Wcut. Height, 15 ft. Breadth, 5 ft. Thickûess, 3 ft.
Centre. " 13 " 4 in. " 5" " 8 "
East. " 16 " 6 " " varies. " 3 "
Great Patio. About 150 ft. square.
Sepulchral Chamber, or so-called Subterranean Passage. Length
(Inside door-jambs), 7 ft. 3 in. ; width, 3 ft. 7 lu. From north entrance
to room with pillar, 18 ft. Ilelghtof steps, about 1 ft. Height (the larger
portion), 3 ft. 113 in. (Just inside north door), 4 ft, 11 in.
Doors.—ÜoYlh. Height, 3 ft. 9 lu. Width, 3 ft. 2 iu.
South. " 3 " 8 " " 2 " 84 "
Jambs, to uorth door. Thickness, 5 in. To sooth door. Thickness,
1 ft. 104 i"- Thickness of door-Jamb being measured in long diameter
of room. Total leugth of room is 9 ft. 6 in. Height of ornament from
floor, 1 ft. 1 iu. Breadth of oruameuted baud, 1 ft. 10 in. Large stone
which probably closed south end; length, S lt. 4 in. ; width, 2 ft. 7 iu. ;
thickness. Si ft., approximately.
NORTH GROUP. NOUTH BUILDING.
Apartment Jtf.—Inside, length, 125 ft. 2 iu. ; width, 23 ft. ; height
(average), 12 ft. Thickness of front wall, 4 ft. fi in.; side wall, 3 ft.
2 iu. Doorways; width, 7 ft. 9è in. Wall between doors, 7 ft. Door-
way, west corner of building to west edge of west doorway, 47 ft.
Doorway, east corner of building to east edge of east doorway, 49 ft.
94 lu. Wiudow; is distant from Inner east augle 2 ft. ; inside width,
6 ft. 4 Iu. Columus; height, 11 ft. 1 lu; circuiufereuce, 9 ft. Cà in.
From we.st wall to column 1, 15 ft. 4 in. ; coiumu 1 to column 2, 15 ft.
• 4 in. From column 2 to coiumu 3, 15 ft. ; column 3 to column 4, 15 ft.
11 iu. From column 4 to column 5, 15 ft. 4 in. ; coiumu 5 to colnmu 0,
15 ft. From coiumu 6 to east wall, 15 ft. 4 In. From north wall to
columus, 10 ft. 3 in. From south wall to columus, 9 ft. 10 in. Passage-
way. From east wall of Apartment, M, 36 ft.; from west wall, S5 ft. 4
in. Height, 5 ft. 7i iu. ; width, 3 ft. 8 iu. (Portion running uorth.)
1882.] Notes on Mitla. 91

Pi.,AN OF BUILDINGS AT MITLA, OAXACA, M E X I C O .


American Antiquarian Society. [Api-il,
Length (short side), 18 ft.; (long side), 23ft. 8 in. Length (portion
running west), 10 ft. 10 in. Patio ; nortli to south, 30 ft. 10 in. ; east to
west, 29 ft. 4 in.
Apartment N. Length, 29 ft. i in. Breadth, 8 ft. 6 in. Height, 12 ft.
O. " 57 " 6 " " 8" 2" ' 12 "
P. *' 29 " 5 " '• 8 '* 3 " 12 "
R. " 36 " 3 " " 6" 8" *" !2 '•
Average wall thiekness, 4 ft.
East building. Distance between pillars, fi4 ft.
All of these measurements were made repeatedly, in order to avoid
errors, and may be considered as quite correct. A tape linefiOfeet
long was nsed. Many measurements are omitted to avoid unnecessary
repetition, but the plans accompanying these tables will supply the
omissions if necessary.

NOTES.
80DTH GROUP.
This group consists of three large buildings occupying the north, east
and south sides of a large cnurtyanl. They were originally elevated on
large artificial mounds, now too mnch ruined to permit of accurate
measurement. Below thc north building were three subterrane.au apart-
ments, C, D and B, and in front of these opened what has always
heretofore been called the subterranean passage. The walls of thc
buildings are externally mueh ruined, but in the interior are higldy
ornamented. A rough sketch of thc façade of Building No. 1 is
here presented.

Thc huge monolithic lintels arc cat into a series of cornices, a cross sec-
1882.] Kotes on Mitla.
tion looking something iike Fi 2, representing the pattern thereby
formed, which is fre- T 9 less now, butorigin-
q u e n t l y repeated. ally covered.
E a c h building in The manner of con-
this group eon.sist- structing the roof
ed of a single loug was undoubted-
room, p e r f e c t l y . -2 1 y t h i s :—1 a r g e
piain inside, roof- *^ round beams were
placed about two feet apart, and then a solid roofing of cement'
was laid. I nsed the word " undoubtedly " in thi.s connection
advisedly, as the holes for the insertion of the ends of the beams
ßtill remain in many places in the cement on the top of the WJIUS,
where the wood has long since decayed and fallen out. The build-
ings were constructed by raising walls of rough stone, and then
facing them on the inner side with squared stones, which in turn were
covered with cement. This coat extended over the floors. In Building
No. 1 this floor still exists. The only ornament or variation on the
inner side was a curious rectangular recess about three feet from ÜIK
fioor. This niche is found in all the buildings in the south group, and
also in the ¡lall of Pillars in the north group. The inner cement on Uie
Willis was probably painted in figures, as I found in other ruined build-
ings at Mitlii very beautiful murai frescoes. I shall refer to these
further on. The doorways are Kurmounted by huge lintels, and at the
extreme ends are large monolithic door-Jambs. The exterior of these
buildings on their façades was highly ornamented in panels of mosaic
work. The separate stones were about 4 inches long, with faces 2 x 5 ,
The ilepth of the pattern is about two inches; the
relievo portion wus ieft of the original cream color of
the stone, standing out beautifully from the blood red
with which the deeper parts were paiuted. Traces of this red paint are
found everywhere.
Buildinii No. 2 consists of one large room utterly devoid inside of
ornament, except the usual niche. Outside it is very richly ornamented,
the patterns being similar to those found on Building No. 1. They are,
however, in great part sculptured in the solid .stone, as well as being
formed in the mosaic pattern just referred to.
Building No. 3 is almost the counterpart of No. 1, except that It has
no visible subterranean ebambers. These, however, may possibly exist.
A eurious feature is to be noticed in this building. The east lintel was
eut as usual into cornices, as iu Fig. 2, but for some reason, either a
blunder in the carving or something of the kind, it was then turned
around, the other side eut aud the original cutting HHed out with plaster
to imitate the tiat surface of the lintel, thus : The portion eross-shaded

' This is exactly the method of roof-buildin* in vogue in Mexico al


the present day.
94 American Antiquarian Society. [April,
represents the plas- mcnts. These a r e
ter ailing. Directly three in n u m b e r;
below Building No. they run west, north
1 are found the sub- east, respect-
t c r r a n e a n apart- at right an-
gles, all opening on a centrai spucc which measures from north to south
a ft. l i in., aud from west to east 5 ft. 24 in. In the centre of this space
rises a supporting pillar. In all of the rooms, at a height of 3 ft. 2 in.
from the floor, runs a bnntl of ornament 1 ft. 9 iu. broad, whose general
characteristics are fonnd in tbe fallowing flgures : Fig. i is from east
end of Room C. Fig. 5 is from east wall of Room B. This iast room is

Repeat

in the worst condition of tiie three. The roof is formed of very iarge
flat stones iaid crosswise. The floor is very nearly perfect, of bright,
smooth red cement, and the walis appear to have been once covered
with this cement. These curious apartments are not uncommon in
Oaxaca; they are known as " cruzeros." I was told of many in the
neighborhood, and whiie I was measnring and taking notes my com-
panions visited some of them. They tell me that they are in every
ref^pect similar to the one jnst described ; and I under.'^tand that huuian
boncp have been fonnd in these apartments. At the iittie village of
Tentitlan dei Valle I heard that there were hundreds of such subter-
ranean apartments, and while I was yet In Oaxaca, the then Governor
Don Francisco Mejuciro sent lo have some of them opened. Large
numbers of very beautifui idols, statuettes, arrowheads, etc., were
found, and in one large cruzero were found/«« loagon-loads of crania.
Unfortunately I had to leave before they reached the city. On a still
lower level, and stretching to the south, is another and much smaller
room. At the time of my visit only the mouth was visible. Here for
centuries has centered mnch of the interest of Mitla. This was the
mouth of the wonderful subterranean passage said to extend for leagues.
I wiil translate here so much as refers to this subject from Burgoa's
account, dated 167+. "Aud from tiieir fabulons traditions, it was
known that they were all persuaded that this frightful concavity ran
more than thirty leagues under ground, the roof being held up by
columns, and there were men and certain curious Prelates, of good zeal,
who being anxious to undeceive these ignorants, went down some steps
with agreat crowd carrying hatchets aud many ilghted torches and forth-
with met with many columned rows like streets. They brought with
them beforehaud many strings to use as guides, that they might not
1882.] Notes on Mitla. 95
lose themselves in that cenfused labyrinth, but such was the corrupliou
aud bad smell, the dampness of the lioor, and a cold wind which
eslinguislied the lights, that at the little distance they had already
penetrated, fearing they might beeome pest stricken or might meet
with some poisonous reptile, of which they saw some, they resolved to
eome out, and ordered this infernal gate to be thoroughly closed with
masimry."
'Bustamautc wrote lu 182C : "Duriug the governmeut of Couut
lievilla Gigedo, Captain Dupaix and Don Josi; Ca.staneda, the artist
(who stlil lives in Mexico), wuut in search of antiquities, protected by
this chief. Castañeda has shown me the collection of drawings which
he made in Palenque, Mictlau and other places, and assured me thiit in
those places aud iu Zachila there exist a multitude of precious thiugs,
and anxiously desired that tlie excavation of the great Sylo or subter-
ranean passage, which exists, closed up, auiong the palaces of Mictlaii,
uii^'ht be protected (or favored) for iu it he knew there were mummies
as perfectly preserved as in the ancient Pyramids of Egypt."
Mu 1824 Mr. Nicholas Mill wrote: "The palace of Mitla was
appropriated as a retirement for the sovereign, to lament for the loss of
a wife, a mother, or a sou. It forms three edifices, the principal of
whicli is best preserved, and is 130 feet In leugth. A staircase formed
in a pit leads to a subterranean apartment 88 feet by 26. This gloomy
place is covered with Grecques, the same as the exterior wails of the
palace. The most material distinction between this and other Mexican
edifices is its having pillars of porphyry to support the ceiling; they are
17 feet high, aud tlie shaft is a single piece. The similarity of the apart-
uicnts to those found iu Upper E^ypt is very strlkiug."
Burgoa's description of Mitla is in the highest degree valuable and
interesting, and generally correct. Bustamante's note I give for what it
is worth, but Mr. Mill I have quoted at some length, in fact, have tran-
scribed all he has to say about Mitla to correct some widespread errors.
Tbc guardian of Mitla, Don Felix Quero, assured me that the passage
ran from oue side of the patio to the other, about 150 I'eet. Resolved to
set the vexed question at rest, I had four excavatious made, one 75 ft.
from fat;ade of liuildiug No. 1 (vide plan); at a depth of 3 ft. massive
rock was struck. I had it carried dowu 3 feet further, and the rock cou-
tiiiuing I abaudoiicti it. A second excavation, 00 ft. from Building No. 1,
gave preciseiy the same result ; a third, 50 ft. from Building No. 1, struck
rock at 3 ft. 8 in., carried down through rock to depth of 7 ft. 6 in. aud

' Historia de las Conquistas de Hernando Cortes escrita en Español


por Francisco Lopez de Gomara, y traducida al Mexicauo y aprobada
por verdadera por D. Juan Bautista de San Anton Muñou Chimalpain
QuLiubteliuanitzin, ludio Mexicauo. Publicaila con varias notas y atll-
ciones, Carlos Maria de Bustamante. Mexico, 2 Vois., 12mo. 1S2G.
( Vide page 86, Chap. SU, Vol. II. Editor's note.)
* The History of Mexieo from the Spanish Conquest to the Present
> by Niebolas Mill, Esq. Loudou, 1S24.
96 American Antiquarian Society. [April,
abandoned; a fourth, 43 ft. from Building No. 1 and 18 ft. from piilar of
subterranean apartment, went down 5 ft. in sand. I then set all my men
to work cleaning out the passage, and flnally succeeded in opening it
eompleteiy. It is ouly a room, and a very small one at that. Its rough
dimensious ffor accurate flgures vide ante uieasures at Mitla) are:
Length, Î) ft. G iu. ; height, 4 ft. ; width, 3 ft. 7 in. Roof of very large
stones. South end once closed by a large stone still lying In the large
patio {vide plan). Floor hard polished cement. Walls ornamented in
the nsual mosaic pattern in a baud 1 ft. 10 in. wide, 1 ft. and 1 In. from
the floor. Stones forming pattern mueh decomposed by dampness. I
broke through the floor to find solid rock nnderneath. Iu faet a great
hole was dug in the roek and this eliamber constructed therein. The
approach is by a flight of three very rough steps hewn out of the living
roek, each 1 ft. high. The passageway Is a chamber which fi'om its size
and position seems to have been simply a sepulchral chamber. If I may
be permitted an hypothesis, I shonkl say this chamber served as a ¿¡rave
or vault for the remaius of great dignitaries, either chiefs in war, rnlers
or priests, and that when a ruler died, his bones were collected and
deposited in the rooms of the " cruzero." I am now confldent that the
" 30 leagues " of Burgoa and the " 88 feet by 26 " of Mr. Mill are both
wroDg.

Leaving the South Group we go to the northeast and reaeh the finest
building left in Mitla. lt occupies the north side of a " patio " or court-
yard rather hirgei- than that ofthe South Group. On the east side all
that remains of the building onee there is a portion of the centre doorway,
stiil holding np two of the huge monolithic lintels; the ihlrd lies proue,
bnt entire, at their foot, and witlilu lie two large columns 54 ft. apart.
The west and south sides are mere shapeless mounds. Tlie North

BUILDING, FKOM N. W .
Building is a very large construction eontainlng flve rooms, a central
court, and a passageway. The first room one enters is that marked M
on the plan. It Is a noble apartment 125 ft. long and 23 ft. wide, and ita
most striking feature is the row of six large columns it contains. This
room has as usual three doors with the usual three monolithic lintels
18ÍS2.] Notes on Mitla. í)7
and two jambs. It is perfectly piain, save the niche. The iloor i.s well
covered with cement. The columns are arraugcd from east to west,
they do not run in a line but are eccentrically placed as regards thc room ;
they also vary in their distances from each other and from the end wail.
They are six in number (one of them does not appear in the picture
owing to the iocation of the camera), monoliths, and are not of porphyry.
The eccentricity of these columns is notable as a type of the rnling style
of construction of Mitla. Tlie great court-yards are not perfectly square ;
lines drawn from the centres of doorways do not intersect in the centre,
but at the side ; the ornament on one side of a deor is never dupücatcd
on the other side, no two door lintels are of the same size. In a word,
careful attention has been paid to niiike the whole asymmetrical. The
effect in the matter of ornament is bizarre and striking, in the archi-
tectural position of the buiidings, rooms, and parts of rooms; it is only
reveaied on measurement. Iu Chichen-Itza, Uxmai and Kabah, ou the
contrary, we flnd the most perfect symmetry. This asymmetry of Mitia
is not accidentai I am certain, but made designeciiy; what that purpose
was I do not know. M. DésirÉ Charnay tells me that he has observed
the same thing at Palenque. To return to our columns. They are IJ
ft. 1 iu. high, ncarlyperfectly cylindrical, slightiy tapering toward the top
whieh is flat. They did not probably support a roof at any time, for the

HALL or PILLARS. FIQ. 6.


walls are still nearly one foot higher than the columns, and on the top
of these very walls I found the holes where the roof beams rested. The
13
98 American Antiquarian Society. [April,
position of the two pillars 64 f e ^ apart, with a smooth cement fioor
stretching between them iu the rnins of the East Building, shows con-
clusively that they h:td a special significance. Further, there are two
in front of another ruined building in Mitla, and a third in the village,
standing in the open air. Authors, including Burgoa, .say that they are of
porphyry, and served to support the roof. Both of these statements are
erroneous. A new feature iu this room i.s a veritable window {vide.
plan). A curious point I notieed is a notable diminution in the width of
the doorways of Rooms M, P and 11 in the later construetions, and also
the window just mentioned. These later additions are sometimes, as
in lïoom E, of adobe, in the other cases of brick and cement. At flrst I
thought that it was done as supports, as many, iu fact all but two of the
huge lintels are broken, apparently by their own weight, but close
examination showed this hypothesis to be untenable.
In Room R a very curious feature is to be noticed As the whole of
the inner walis was decorated, iu this buiiding, with the usual mosaic
pattern, whenever the sniid stone rendered it necessary the pattern was
sculptured across the stone; so we find it on the south end of the lintels.
A glance at the plan will show that the north end is in a dark corner.
Now the sculpture shouid have run clear across the stone; it does not,
but for a great space the »tone is left blauk. Whether the sculptor
became tired or forgot, or whether the stone was too hard, whatever
the reason, there we have an evidently unfinished pieee of work. That
they were uot afraid of work is shown by the care used and great labor
expended ou the east lintel of Building No, 2, South Group {vide Fig. 3).
There are examples of apparent great care and as great carelessness.
In the plan the win- c' j , - . This is wrong; it shouid have
d o w is shown '^^W////// •avv^w/abeen thus: *' *•'
this form : „ i- .. ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ T h e pass-
ageway is
of iarge stones covered with hard, bright, dark red cement; it opens
on a centrai court surrounded by four rooms. The court-yard and
looms are all floored with hard cement. The patio is very well pre-
served. Room N is poorest of the four, and Room O Is In a very per-
fect state. Room P comes next, and lloom R. is in good condition.
The patio and rooms, and indeed the whole building, except the Hali
ofPillars {Room M), is covered with ornaments. These ornaments ure
variations from a few simple types, The walls are faced with large
stones and the ornaments are arranged In panels. The photographs sent
with this paper show the ornaments well. Still further to the north are
the remains of a very large edifice, but it is now part and parcel of a
church and of the buildings thereto annexed, aud it is hard to separate
the old from the new. Still here I found on a cornice remains of mural
paintings. The subject seems (from memory) to be identical with that
sculptured on the so-called " SacriÜcial Stone " in the patio of the Museo
Nacional at Mexico, and ou the walls and roof of the chamber of the
1882.] Notes on Mitla. 99
Gymuusinm at Chichen-ltza. You see tiie same file of chiefs, all bent
forward aud bearing lances and other insignia. Directiy west of this
buihling is a high mound, witb a very much ruined flight of steps icading
to the summit. This mound is surmounted by a modern building.
FurLher Honth and iu and near the village, oftuu occupied as houses, are
other ruins, in oue of which I saw a long strip of painted cornice. The
centre evidently represented a "calendario," but unforiuuately it was
broken in parts. The two groups ! measured were accurately oriented
to the magnetic points of the compass at the date of my visit. In
spunking of the iiutcis, I llud that 1 have omitted to state that they
repose ou vt'ry liirgt* blocks, wbich have iu every case but two, circular
holes made in them. (Fide Fig. 1.) They also project considerably
thns, in cross-section. (Zapotecos) tell m e
Sec also photograph of
Vlff 7
that everywhere, but
t h e Hall of Pillar.s. LitiUL chiefly to the north and
T h i s concludes my east, iire large niouuds,
notes on such build- Support and (luring my ¿tay I
ings as I couiti accu- was continuaiiy pes-
rately measure a n d
WotL tered by women and
Poce
s t u d y . The natives children bringing me
idols, etc., to buy. One word as to the probable age. The buildings
are carefully looked after by tbe Government, and have an intelligent
guardian in the person of Dou Felix Quoro, to whose hospitable
courtesy and beautiful houae I can heartiiy recommend all archieologists
who may visit Mitla. As he truly says, the big stones are too big, the
smiill-Stones too smaii, to move with proflt; heuce they have suffered
little ravage from men. Au inhabitant of the village since 1849 assured
me that the ruins are in exactly the condition they then were. But
Burgoa In 1674 aays : " T h i s work being most ancient, beyond the
memory of any one living, has yet lasted to our times. I saw them
very leisurely over thirty years ago," and then goes on to describe them aa
they stand to-tlay. Therefore, in 1(>44, two huudretl and thirty-eight
years ago, they were practically as they arc to-day. I can see no rea-
son why they should uot last for centuries still.
I beg that too severe criticism of my noles may not be exercised, as
they were hastily thrown into shape, but every mejvsureinent may be
relied OU as correct. 1 have a large plan ij\' the buildings uiuasured by
me, and tracings of some of Miihleupfordt's plaus. They are useful, bnt
not absolutely correct. Thuy are four in number. No. 1. Pian of
Buildings rcmeasured by me. No. 2. Section tiirougii cruzero and sub-
ttjrrauean passage. No. 3. Grouud plau of cruzero and subterranean
passage. No. 4. General plan of Mitla.
I found Miihlenpfordt's originai pians in the library of the Institute at
Oaxaca, but my short stay was shortened by violent attacks of fever,
and I couid ouiy copy these. MUhienpfordt seems to have understood
the construction and size of the supposed passage. I also send three
loo American Antiquarian Society. [April,
photographs. No. 1. Hall of Pillars. No. 2. North Group, north build-
ing, from northwest. No. 3. North Group, north bulldiug, from north-
west.
Hoping this humble contribution may be of some use to all Amerieau
archœologists, I lay down my pen with a feeling of regret aklu to that
I felt wheu J cast my last glance at the beautiful ruins I have so feebly
described.
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