3086 Actuator and Mud Valve

HI-KALIBRE TOP DRIVE ROTO ACTUATOR
D E S I G N:
• REMOTE CONTROLLED HYDRAULIC ACTUATOR FOR USE AS A MUD SAVER OR

BLOW OUT PREVENTION IN CASE OF EMERGENCY.
• RUGGED 8 POINT HOLDING SYSTEM LOCKS ACTUATOR INTO POSITION
QUICKLY AND ACCURATELY.
• NO EXTERNAL MOVING PARTS.
• COMPACT DESIGN.
• FAIL SAFE OPEN ENSURES ACTUATOR WILL NOT CLOSE UNDER MOST
SEVERE JARRING.
• POSITIVE OPEN AND CLOSE STOPS LOCATED IN ACTUATOR.
• HYDRAULIC SEALS ARE FIELD REPLACEABLE FOR MINIMAL DOWN TIME.
F E A T U R E S:
• GENERATES 660 FT←LBS OF TORQUE AT 2,000 P.S.I. HYDRAULIC

PRESSURE.
• WILL OPERATE MUD SAVER AT 5,000 P.S.I. HYDROSTATIC WELL BORE
PRESSURE.
• FIELD STRIPPABLE OVER TOP OR BOTTOM OF MUD SAVER.
• CAN BE STRIPPED OVER TOP OF MUD SAVER WITH CLOSED IN WELL BORE
PRESSURE.
• FITTED WITH AUTOMATIC INTERNAL GREASER FOR CUSTOMER
CONVENIENCE.
• MOST DEPENDABLE AND RELIABLE TOP DRIVE ACTUATOR AVAILABLE IN
THE WORLD.
3086 TOP DRIVE ACTUATOR MAINTENANCE MANUAL
HI-KALIBRE EQUIPMENT LTD.
PLEASE READ INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY
NOTICE: Actuator gets hot. Stand clear from actuator when it

is in rotation. Allow two to three hours of time to cool down
before handling actuator that was rotating.
GREASING INSTRUCTIONS
Rotate actuator at 35 RPM and pump grease into anchor bracket

slowly. Use a one thousand and one, one thousand and two, one
thousand and three pumping action which results in roughly 20
strokes per minute. As it is being greased, the pins will move in
a upward direction indicating that the actuator is accepting
grease. Repeat until both grease indicator pins are fully
extruded. If pressure relief fittings pass grease before grease
indicator pins are fully extruded, grease is being pumped too
fast. After greasing, function actuator open and closed three
times. Greasing is not again required until the pins are fully
retracted.
Following these instructions carefully will result in a long

lasting life of the roto actuator seals.
i
SHIPPING AND HANDLING INSTRUCTIONS
Actuators that are shipped while attached to the valve body

should be shipped with the entire assembly laying down. To
protect the assembly from damage, the assembly must not rest on
the roto hub (16) and the roto hub (16) must not be allowed to
come into contact with anything during shipping.
If the actuator is not shipped attached to the valve body, it

should be shipped in an upright position. Again, the actuator
must be affixed so that the roto hub (16) does not come into
contact with anything during shipping.
NOTE ON 3086 ACTUATOR INSTALLATION
Brass 0.010 inch thick shim stock is now being shipped with
every seal kit to help with actuator alignment during installation.
Place four pieces at top and bottom between actuator and valve,
or valve and sleeve at equal spacing before torquing lock pin
assembly set screws.
NOTE ON OPERATION OF THE 3086 ACTUATOR
To insure proper opening and closing of the kellycock, the

actuator must be under hydraulic pressure for five seconds
before returning to the neutral position. This should allow
sufficient time for the valve to be fully opened or fully closed.
For techinal support, contact you supplier. Before calling for

techinal support please have the actuator serial number ready. It
is found on the window milled on the outside diameter of the
actuator, e.g. 3086-TDA-001.
ii
3086 SERIES
TOP DRIVE
ACTUATOR
Revised: Monday, December 5, 1999
TABLE OF CONTENTS
1. ROTO HUB SEAL KIT REPLACEMENT..........................................................................................3
I. DISCONNECTING HYDRAULIC LINES. .....................................................................................................3
II. REMOVING LOWER END CAP..................................................................................................................3
III. REMOVING ROTO HUB...........................................................................................................................4
IV. RE-INSTALLING ROTO HUB. ...................................................................................................................4
2. STRIPPING AND INSTALLING ACTUATOR..................................................................................7
I. REMOVING ACTUATOR FROM VALVE BODY...........................................................................................7
II. REINSTALLING ACTUATOR TO VALVE BODY. .........................................................................................8
3. ACTUATOR SEAL KIT REPLACEMENT ......................................................................................10
I. REMOVING LOWER END CAP................................................................................................................10
II. REMOVING ROTO HUB.........................................................................................................................10
III. REMOVING UPPER END CAP.................................................................................................................11
IV. REMOVING UPPER CYLINDER. .............................................................................................................11
V. REPLACING ACTUATOR SEAL KIT.........................................................................................................12
VI. RE-INSTALLING ROTO HUB. .................................................................................................................13
LIST OF FIGURES
FIGURE 1 .............................................................................................................................. 15
FIGURE 2 .............................................................................................................................. 16
FIGURE 3 .............................................................................................................................. 17
TABLE 1................................................................................................................................ 18
2
1. ROTO HUB SEAL KIT REPLACEMENT

Roto Hub seal replacement should be performed in a clean environment after the actuator
has been stripped from the valve. The following outlines the procedure for seal
replacement.
I. Disconnecting hydraulic lines.

Normally this would be straight forward, but to ensure minimum fluid loss or
hydraulic spillage, follow the steps below.
(i). Ensure actuator is in the open position.
(ii). Relieve hydraulic pressure.
(iii). Disconnect lubricating line from anchor bracket (20).

Lubricator will continue to flow, resulting in some grease loss.
(***Only applies to externally lubricated actuators.)
(iv). Disconnect hydraulic lines.

Note which line is open and which line is closed.
(v). Bleed grease from internal lubricators.

Remove both set screws (24) from the roto hub to ensure that all
grease is emptied from the actuator. When the actuator is empty,
both grease indicators (34) will be fully retracted inside the upper
end cap (2).
(vi). Disconnect hydraulic lines.
II. Removing lower end cap.

(i). Remove eight socket head cap screws (18).
(ii). Lower end cap (17) can now be removed.

Actuators have tapped holes in the lower end cap to facilitate
removal. You will have to remove the plugs first using allen wrench
supplied in your service kit. Two of the eight socket head cap
screws (18) may be screwed into the threaded holes in the lower end
cap (17). Take care not to drop the ¼” dowel pins (22) as they may
be loose. Inspect the lower Teflon lip seal (31) for excessive wear or
damage. The seal should be replaced every time the hub is removed.
3
The molded Teflon seal must be inserted soft seal side first, so that
the Teflon rider is closest to the bronze hub.
III. Removing roto hub.

(i). Carefully remove roto hub (16).
The roto hub (16) may be difficult to remove because of the tight
tolerances in the seal area. Ensure that the roto hub (16) is removed
evenly to prevent any binding. If force is required, use soft mallets
only: metal hammers will damage the soft bronze hub.
(ii). Remove old roto hub seal kit (28) from roto hub (16).
There are three seal sets on the interior of the hub. Each seal set is
comprised of a Teflon seal and an o-ring energizer. The seal set can
be removed with an o-ring pick by digging into the middle of each
seal and pulling it back. The hub seal set must be replaced every
time the hub is removed. If not, oil can get in behind the o-rings and
cause the o-ring to spin in the hub and tear the o-rings causing
failure. Do not touch the interior of the bronze hub with any metal
objects when removing seals.
(iii). Inspect sleeve Teflon lip seal (32) in the roto sleeve (15).
Inspect the Teflon lip seal (32) for excessive wear or damage. The
seal should be replaced every time the hub is removed. When the
seal is removed, oil and grease will get in behind the seal causing the
o-ring to spin and tear. Note that the molded Teflon seal is inserted
soft seal side first, so that the Teflon rider (32) is closest to the
bronze hub.
IV. Re-installing roto hub.

(i). Thoroughly clean roto hub (16) and roto sleeve (15).
It is absolutely imperative that all oil, grease, and any other fouling
substances be removed from the inside of the hub. The three
grooves where the hub seals ride must be washed out with a solvent,
washed with water, and dried before re-installing the hub seals. If
oil or grease get in behind the seals, the seals will spin in the groove
and cause failure of the new seals within days of replacement.
(ii). Install new roto hub seal kit (28) in roto hub (16).
Install Teflon seal/o-ring pairs into roto hub (16). This is most
easily done by placing the pair in the bottom of the roto hub (16) and
slightly deforming the top of the seal. The pair may be bent
4
backwards upon itself to complete installation. Take care not to
irreparably damage the seals during installation. Do not attempt to
install the o-rings and seals separately: the o-rings must be stretched
over the Teflon seals.
***Important information regarding proper installation of roto hub
seals. You should read this section before proceeding to install the
roto hub seals to insure that you do not experience premature seal
failures. After the roto hub is removed and before installing the
seals in the hub, make sure that the three grooves where the hub
seals go is 100% clean. All hydraulic oil, grease, and other
contaminants must be removed using a solvent such as Varsol,
rinsed thoroughly with clean water, and dried using an air nozzle or
paper towel as best as possible. The hub seals and lip seals are static
seals and are not designed to spin in the grooves. If this happens,
you will experience failure of the seals within days of installing the
new seals. The hub seals and o-rings can never be re-used after
removal from the actuator and must be replaced even if there is no
apparent sign of wear. When installing the hub seals only bend the
seals just enough to get them into the roto hub grooves. Stand the
hub up on its side and install the seals from the bottom first and then
work the seals into the grooves. DO NOT apply any lubrication to
the back of the seals or o-rings as this will cause them to spin in the
grooves and fail prematurely. Only after the hub seals are all
installed properly, apply a light film of grease to the face of the seals
(face of seal which rides against the roto sleeve). After re-attaching
the roto hub and you have finished assembling the actuator,
BEFORE ROTATING, function the actuator to the open position
and hold for roughly 5-10 seconds. After functioning to the open
position and holding, function the actuator to the closed position and
repeat the holding procedure. You should do this at least 4-5 times
in both directions. This will allow the seals to properly seat
themselves and return to their original shape and remove any kinks
from bending during installation. Make sure the actuator is returned
to the neutral position and the pressure is released before beginning
to rotate the actuator. Make sure that you DO NOT rotate with
pressure on the actuator unless in the case of an extreme
emergency. Always make sure that the grease pistons are pumped
full of grease before resuming rotation and that you function the
actuator after greasing it.
(iii). Replace sleeve Teflon lip seal (32).

seal should be replaced every time the hub is removed. When
installing, ensure that the Teflon molded seal is inserted soft seal
side first, so that the Teflon rider (32) is closest to the bronze hub.
5
(iv). Apply Metalon grease to seal area surface on roto hub seals
(28).
DO NOT lubricate the back of the o-ring or the inside of the
grooves in the hub. This will cause the seals to spin in the hub and
cause premature seal failure shortly after replacement.
(v). Slide roto hub (16) over roto sleeve (15).

Refer to Figure 2 to maintain proper open and close port orientation.
Again, if force is necessary use a soft mallet. Ensure anchor bracket
(20) is located properly, with adapter (30) up.
(vi). Replace lower end cap lip seal assembly (31).

seal should be replaced every time the hub is removed. When
installing, ensure that the Teflon molded seal is inserted soft seal
side first, so that the Teflon rider (31) is closest to the bronze hub.
Do not lubricate the back face or the grooves (again, this is a static
seal and will spin in groove and fail if lubricated or left with old
grease in the grooves).
(vii). Replace dowel pins (22) and lower end cap (17).
Be sure not to damage the fragile Teflon rider (31) at this stage.
(viii). Replace socket head cap screws (18).

The socket head cap screws (18) must be torqued to 27 ft·lbs. Pay
special attention to the torque settings.
(ix). Reconnect hydraulic lines.
(x). Replace two set screws (24) and grease internal lubricator.
Make sure to grease the actuator after replacing the seals, as well as
before the indicators are in the fully down position. Rotate actuator
at 35 RPM and pump grease into anchor bracket slowly. Use a one
thousand and one, one thousand and two, one thousand and three
pumping action which results in roughly 20 strokes per minute. As
it is being greased, the grease indicators will move in a downward
direction indicating that the actuator is accepting grease. Repeat
until both grease indicator pins are fully extruded. If pressure relief
fittings pass grease before grease indicator pins are fully extruded,
grease is being pumped too fast. Pump grease until grease can be
seen passing through the lower vent fittings and indicators are fully
extended. This will make sure that all of the air is purged from the
actuator and that grease is allowed to move out to the lip seals.
6
When the vent fittings trip, there is roughly 25 lbs. of pressure on the
seals. After greasing, function actuator open and closed four times
(always return to open position) which will release the excess
pressure on the grease seals and remove the air out of the hydraulics
in the actuator. This release can be identified by a small amount of
grease venting out of the bottom vent fittings every time you
function the actuator. Remember, it is important that you grease the
actuator before the indicators are fully retracted.
2. STRIPPING AND INSTALLING ACTUATOR

I. Removing actuator from valve body.
(i). Ensure the actuator is in the open position.
If the hydraulic lines have not been removed, do so now.
(ii). Bleed grease from internal lubricators.

Remove both set screws (24) from the roto sleeve (15) to ensure that
all grease is emptied from the actuator. When the actuator is empty,
grease indicators (34) will be fully retracted inside the upper end cap
(2).
(iii). Remove both internal snap rings (9).

Use the snap ring pliers supplied in your service kit.
(iv). Pull the hex drive shafts (11).

A slide hammer is supplied for easy removal, it is found in the
service kit.
(v). Remove the upper and lower worm ring clamps (26).
(vi). Remove two upper lock pin assemblies at 180°.

Lock pin assemblies include a one inch set screw (5), a coil spring
(6), and a lock pin (7) which can be removed with slide hammer.
(vii). Install lifting handles.

Lifting handles are supplied in the service kit. Screw into exposed
lock pin holes. Secure lifting apparatus to handles before
proceeding. The actuator weighs 185 lbs.
(viii). Loosen the six remaining lock pin assemblies.

Back off each assembly roughly 10 to 12 full turns.
7
(ix). Remove the actuator from valve.
II. Reinstalling actuator to valve body.

(i). Orient valve and actuator for installation.
Ensure valve and actuator are both in the open position before
installation.
(ii). Slide actuator onto the valve.

Align the main window of the actuator with the main window of the
valve body. Rotate the actuator 45° to the right and lower it until the
actuator passes the first stem hole.
(iii). Insert lower lock pin assemblies.

Lock pin assemblies consist of a lock pin (7), coil spring (6), and a
one inch set screw (5). Refer to Figure 1 for details.
(iv). Preload lock pin assemblies.

Place a slight preload on the coil springs (6) by tightening the set
screw (5) of each assembly.
(v). Lower actuator to locator groove.

Lower the actuator until the lower lock pin assemblies pick up on
the locator groove in the valve body. Rotate actuator 45° left to
engage lock pin (7) in valve detents.
(vi). Shim actuator with brass shim stock.

Brass shim stock is provided in your service kit. Insert eight pieces
between valve and actuator, four at the top and four at the bottom at
equal intervals.
(vii). Tighten four lower lock pin assemblies.

Torque set screws (5) to 100 ft·lbs.
(viii). Remove lifting handles and install upper lock pin

assemblies.
Torque set screws (5) to 100 ft·lbs.
8
(ix). Remove brass shim stock.
(x). Install drive hex (11) and secure with internal snap ring (9).
(xi). Secure upper and lower worm ring clamps (26).
(xii). Insure actuator is primed with grease before operation.

strokes per minute. As it is being greased, the grease indicators will
move in a upward direction indicating that the actuator is accepting
grease. Repeat until both grease indicator pins are fully extruded. If
pressure relief fittings pass grease before grease indicator pins are
fully extruded, grease is being pumped too fast. After greasing,
function actuator open and closed three times. Greasing is not again
required until the pins are almost fully retracted.
9
3. ACTUATOR SEAL KIT REPLACEMENT

Seal kit replacement should be done when the actuator has been stripped from the valve.
I. Removing lower end cap.

(i). Bleed grease from internal lubricators.
Remove both set screws (24) from the roto hub to ensure that all
grease is emptied from the actuator. When the actuator is empty,
grease indicators (34) will be fully retracted inside the upper end
cap (2).
(ii). Remove eight socket head cap screws (18).
(iii). Lower end cap (17) can now be removed.

Actuators have tapped holes in the lower end cap to facilitate
removal. You will have to remove the plugs first using the allen
wrench supplied in your service kit. Two of the eight socket head
cap screws (18) may be screwed into the threaded holes in the lower
end cap (17). Take care not to drop the ¼” dowel pins (22) as they
may be loose. Inspect the lower Teflon lip seal (31) for excessive
wear or damage. If in need of replacement please see Section 1.
II. Removing roto hub.

(i). Carefully remove roto hub (16).
The roto hub (16) may be difficult to remove because of the tight
tolerances in the seal area. Ensure that the roto hub (16) is removed
evenly to prevent any binding. If force is required, use soft mallets
only: metal hammers will damage the soft bronze hub.
(ii). Inspect roto hub seal kit (28).

There are three seal sets on the interior of the roto hub (16). Each
seal set is comprised of a Teflon seal and an o-ring energizer. Please
refer to Section 1 for instructions on replacing the roto hub seal kit
(28), and grease lip seals (31 & 32).
(iii). Remove both threaded bushings (21) from roto hub (16).
The bushings are threaded right handed.
(iv). Remove o-rings from threaded bushings (21).
10
III. Removing upper end cap.

(i). Place the actuator with the roto sleeve (15) down.
Ensure that the seal area on the roto sleeve (15) does not become
damaged. It is worth the time to cover it with clean cardboard, and
the actuator should be placed on a wood surface.
(ii). Remove twelve socket head cap screws (1).
(iii). Remove upper end cap (2).

Newer actuators have tapped holes in the lower end cap to facilitate
removal. You will have to remove the plugs first using the allen
wrench supplied in your service kit. Two of the twelve socket head
cap screws (1) may be screwed into the threaded holes in the upper
end cap (2). Take care not to drop the ½” dowel pins (19) as they
may be loose. Remove two dowel pins (19) and two o-ring seals.
IV. Removing upper cylinder.

(i). Remove eight socket head cap screws (3).
(ii). Pull upper cylinder (4) directly up.

Remove two ½” dowel pins (19) and two o-ring seals. The racks (8)
and pinions (12 & 13) should now be exposed.
(iii). Remove racks (8) and pinions (12 & 13).
(iv). Remove grease springs (33) and grease pistons (34, 35 &
36).
(v). Turn actuator over onto lower cylinder (14).

Again, prevent possible damage by placing lower cylinder (14) on a
wood surface.
(vi). Remove ten socket head cap screws from sleeve (15).
(vii). Lift roto sleeve (15) off of lower cylinder (14).

Remove two ½” dowel pins (19) and four o-ring seals.
11
V. Replacing actuator seal kit.

(i). Inspect and clean all parts prior to assembly.
The entire actuator should be inspected for contamination due to dirt
or torn seals. If the contamination is not removed, the actuator will
fail prematurely.
(ii). Install roto sleeve (15) to lower cylinder (14).

Obtain sleeve (15), and install two dowel pins (19) and four o-rings.
Attach to lower cylinder (14) by lining up dowel pins (19) and
fastening with ten socket head cap screws (1). Torque socket head
cap screws (1) to 27 ft·lbs.
(iii). Prepare racks (8) and pinions (12 & 13) for installation.
Install two o-rings and four backups on each rack. Apply a light coat
of grease to racks (8). Press one pinion seal into both faces on each
pinion (12 & 13). Apply a light coat of grease to the pinion teeth
and inside bearing surfaces of pinion bearings(10). Do not grease
outside bearing surfaces. Slide on pinion bearings (10).
(iv). Prepare internal grease assembly for installation.

Install one o-ring on each grease piston (36). Apply a light coat of
grease to o-ring. Install indicators (34 & 35) into grease pistons if
necessary. Push piston assemblies (34, 35 & 36) into lower cylinder
(14). Slide springs (33) over grease indicators (34), and down into
the lower cylinder (14).
(v). Install racks (8) and pinions (12 & 13) in lower cylinder
(14).
Refer now to Figure 3. To maintain proper timing of the racks (8),
pinions (12 & 13) and proper function of the actuator, the following
steps must be taken:
1. Orientate “front” window location on lower cylinder
housing, as in Figure 3.
2. Ensure master pinion (12) is on the right side, and slave
pinion (13) is on the left.
3. When installed properly, the racks (8) will bottom out
when the pinion (12 &13) indicators are pointing directly
up, as in the side views of Figure 3.
(vi). Fasten upper cylinder (4) to lower cylinder (14).

Install two o-rings and 2 dowel pins (19) into lower cylinder (14).
Orientate the upper cylinder (4) and lower directly in-line. Insure
12
the grease indicators (34) are properly lined up so they are not
damaged. Fasten with eight socket head cap screws (3). Torque
socket head cap screws (3) to 100 ft·lbs.
(vii). Fasten upper end cap (2) to upper cylinder (4).

Install four o-rings and two dowel pins (19) into upper end cap (2).
Align with upper cylinder (4) and fasten with twelve socket head cap
screws (1). Torque to 27 ft·lbs.
VI. Re-installing roto hub.

(i). Thoroughly clean roto hub (16) and roto sleeve (15).
Inspect hub seal kit (28) in roto hub. To replace roto hub seal kit
(28) or Teflon riders (31 &32), see Section 1. Remove all grease and
oil from hub and grooves before installing and make sure hub is dry.
(ii). Replace threaded bushings (21).

Install new o-rings on threaded bushings (21) and install into roto
hub (16).
(iii). Apply Metalon grease to seal area surface only on roto hub
seals (15).
DO NOT lubricate the o-ring or the inside of the groove.
(iv). Slide roto hub (16) over roto sleeve (15).

Refer to Figure 2 to maintain proper open and close port orientation.
Again, if force is necessary use a soft mallet. Ensure anchor bracket
(20) is located properly, with adapter (30) up.
(v). Replace dowel pins (22) and lower end cap (17).
Be sure not to damage the fragile Teflon riders (31 & 32) at this
point.
(vi). Replace socket head cap screws (18).

The socket head cap screws (18) must be torqued to 27 ft·lbs.
(vii). Replace two set screws (24) and grease internal lubricator.
strokes per minute. As it is being greased, the grease indicators will
move in a upward direction indicating that the actuator is accepting
grease. Repeat until both grease indicator pins are fully extruded. If
13
pressure relief fittings pass grease before grease indicator pins are
fully extruded, grease is being pumped too fast. After greasing,
function actuator open and closed three times. Greasing is not again
required until the pins are fully retracted.
14
TROUBLE SHOOTING INSTRUCTIONS

Please refer to Figure 1 for reference and Table 1 for part numbers.
1. Oil leaking from 1/8 NPT vent fittings (25b) on the upper cylinder (4)
indicates a worn seal on the piston rack (8). Please refer to Section 3
of this manual for actuator seal kit replacement.
2. Oil leaking from 1/8 NPT vent fittings on the lower end cap (25b) or
the anchor blocks (25a) indicates worn roto hub seal set. Please refer
to Section 1 of this manual for roto hub seal kit replacement.
3. Oil leaking between roto hub (16) and sleeve (15) or between roto hub
(16) and lower end cap (17) indicates worn roto hub seal set. Please
refer to Section 1 of this manual for roto hub seal kit replacement.
4. If actuator fails to function valve properly after being mounted, check

the following:
• The hex drive shafts (11) are properly installed.
• The main window of the actuator is aligned with the main
window of the valve.
• Both the valve and the actuator are in the open position
when the hex drives shafts (11) are installed.
• The hydraulic lines are connected properly.
In the event that this does not solve the problem, the racks (8) and
pinions (12 & 13) could be improperly timed within the actuator.
Note that all actuators are shipped mounted and tested: the timing can
only be out if the actuator has been field serviced. Refer to Section 3
of this manual for proper installation and timing of the racks (8) and
pinions (12 & 13)
5. Do not plug any leaking vent fittings (25a or 25b) as this could cause
severe personal injury.
6. If any part of the actuator gets overly hot (120° F or higher), insure
that actuator seals are getting grease. Check external lubricator is not
empty and that the grease indicators (34) are showing. Make sure that
there is no hydraulic pressure on the seals while the actuator is
rotating.
iii

3086 Actuator and Mud Valve

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HI-KALIBRE TOP DRIVE ROTO ACTUATOR

• REMOTE CONTROLLED HYDRAULIC ACTUATOR FOR USE AS A MUD SAVER OR

• GENERATES 660 FT←LBS OF TORQUE AT 2,000 P.S.I. HYDRAULIC

PLEASE READ INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY

NOTICE: Actuator gets hot. Stand clear from actuator when it

Rotate actuator at 35 RPM and pump grease into anchor bracket

Following these instructions carefully will result in a long

SHIPPING AND HANDLING INSTRUCTIONS

Actuators that are shipped while attached to the valve body

If the actuator is not shipped attached to the valve body, it

NOTE ON 3086 ACTUATOR INSTALLATION

NOTE ON OPERATION OF THE 3086 ACTUATOR

To insure proper opening and closing of the kellycock, the

For techinal support, contact you supplier. Before calling for

1. ROTO HUB SEAL KIT REPLACEMENT

I. Disconnecting hydraulic lines.

(i). Ensure actuator is in the open position.

(ii). Relieve hydraulic pressure.

(iii). Disconnect lubricating line from anchor bracket (20).

(iv). Disconnect hydraulic lines.

(v). Bleed grease from internal lubricators.

(vi). Disconnect hydraulic lines.

II. Removing lower end cap.

(ii). Lower end cap (17) can now be removed.

III. Removing roto hub.

IV. Re-installing roto hub.

(iii). Replace sleeve Teflon lip seal (32).

(v). Slide roto hub (16) over roto sleeve (15).

(vi). Replace lower end cap lip seal assembly (31).

(viii). Replace socket head cap screws (18).

(ix). Reconnect hydraulic lines.

2. STRIPPING AND INSTALLING ACTUATOR

(ii). Bleed grease from internal lubricators.

(iii). Remove both internal snap rings (9).

(iv). Pull the hex drive shafts (11).

(vi). Remove two upper lock pin assemblies at 180°.

(vii). Install lifting handles.

(viii). Loosen the six remaining lock pin assemblies.

II. Reinstalling actuator to valve body.

(ii). Slide actuator onto the valve.

(iii). Insert lower lock pin assemblies.

(iv). Preload lock pin assemblies.

(v). Lower actuator to locator groove.

(vi). Shim actuator with brass shim stock.

(vii). Tighten four lower lock pin assemblies.

(viii). Remove lifting handles and install upper lock pin

(xi). Secure upper and lower worm ring clamps (26).

(xii). Insure actuator is primed with grease before operation.

3. ACTUATOR SEAL KIT REPLACEMENT

I. Removing lower end cap.

(ii). Remove eight socket head cap screws (18).

(iii). Lower end cap (17) can now be removed.

II. Removing roto hub.

(ii). Inspect roto hub seal kit (28).

(iv). Remove o-rings from threaded bushings (21).

III. Removing upper end cap.

(ii). Remove twelve socket head cap screws (1).

(iii). Remove upper end cap (2).

IV. Removing upper cylinder.