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Mechanical watch
A mechanical watch is a watch that uses a clockwork
mechanism to measure the passage of time, as opposed to quartz
watches which function electronically via a small battery. A
mechanical watch is driven by a mainspring which must be
wound either periodically by hand or via a self-winding
mechanism. Its force is transmitted through a series of gears to
power the balance wheel, a weighted wheel which oscillates back
and forth at a constant rate. A device called an escapement
releases the watch's wheels to move forward a small amount with
each swing of the balance wheel, moving the watch's hands
forward at a constant rate. The escapement is what makes the
'ticking' sound which is heard in an operating mechanical watch. The hand-winding movement of a
Mechanical watches evolved in Europe in the 17th century from Russian watch
spring powered clocks, which appeared in the 15th century.

Mechanical watches are typically not as accurate as modern

electronic quartz watches,[1][2][3] and they require periodic cleaning by a skilled watchmaker.[3] Since
the 1970s, quartz watches have taken over most of the watch market, and mechanical watches are
now mostly a high-end product, purchased for their aesthetic and luxury values, for appreciation of
their fine craftsmanship,[2] or as a status symbol.[2]

Contents
Components
Mechanism
Mainspring and motion work
Wheel train
Escapement
Balance wheel
Keyless work
Center seconds
Watch jewels
Purposes
Types
Where they are used
'Jewel inflation'
World time
History
See also
References
External links

Components
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The internal mechanism of a watch, excluding the face and

hands, is called the movement. All mechanical watches have
these five parts:

A mainspring,[4] which stores mechanical energy to power the

watch.
A gear train, called the wheel train,[5] which has the dual
function of transmitting the force of the mainspring to the
balance wheel and adding up the swings of the balance
wheel to get units of seconds, minutes, and hours. A Mechanical wrist watch
separate part of the gear train, called the keyless work, disassembled
allows the user to wind the mainspring and enables the
hands to be moved to set the time.
A balance wheel, which oscillates back and forth. Each swing
of the balance wheel takes precisely the same amount of
time. This is the timekeeping element in the watch.
An escapement mechanism, which has the dual function of
keeping the balance wheel vibrating by giving it a push with
each swing, and allowing the watch's gears to advance or
'escape' by a set amount with each swing. The periodic
stopping of the gear train by the escapement makes the
'ticking' sound of the mechanical watch.
An indicating dial, usually a traditional clock face with rotating
hands, to display the time in human-readable form.

Additional functions on a watch besides the basic timekeeping A so-called "mystery watch" c. 1890,
ones are traditionally called complications. Mechanical watches it is fitted with a cylinder
may have these complications: escapement.

Automatic winding or self-winding—in order to eliminate the

need to wind the watch, this device winds the watch's mainspring automatically using the natural
motions of the wrist, with a rotating-weight mechanism.
Calendar—displays the date, and often the weekday, month, and year. Simple calendar watches
do not account for the different lengths of the months, requiring the user to reset the date 5 times
a year, but perpetual calendar watches account for this, and even leap years.[6] An annual
calendar does not make the leap year adjustment, and treats February as a 30-day month, so the
date must be reset on March 1 every year when it incorrectly says February 29 or 30.
Alarm—a bell or buzzer that can be set to go off at a given time.
Chronograph—a watch with additional stopwatch functions. Buttons on the case start and stop
the second hand and reset it to zero, and usually several subdials display the elapsed time in
larger units.
Hacking feature—found on military watches, a mechanism that stops the second hand while the
watch is being set. This enables watches to be synchronized to the precise second. This is now a
very common feature on many watches.
Moon phase dial—shows the phase of the moon with a moon face on a rotating disk.
Wind indicator or power reserve indicator—mostly found on automatic watches, a subdial that
shows how much power is left in the mainspring, usually in terms of hours left to run.
Repeater—a watch that chimes the hours audibly at the press of a button. This rare complication
was originally used before artificial lighting to check what time it was in the dark. These complex
mechanisms are now only found as novelties in extremely expensive luxury watches.
Tourbillon—this expensive feature was originally designed to make the watch more accurate, but
is now simply a demonstration of watchmaking virtuosity. In an ordinary watch the balance wheel
oscillates at different rates, because of gravitational bias, when the watch is in different positions,

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causing inaccuracy. In a tourbillon, the balance wheel is mounted in a rotating cage so that it will
experience all positions equally. The mechanism is usually exposed on the face to show it off.

Mechanism
The mechanical watch is a mature technology, and most ordinary watch movements have the same
parts and work the same way.[7]

Cutaway drawing of pocketwatch, with parts labeled

Mainspring and motion work

The mainspring that powers the watch, a spiral ribbon of spring steel, is inside a cylindrical barrel,
with the outer end of the mainspring attached to the barrel. The force of the mainspring turns the
barrel. The barrel has gear teeth around the outside that turn the center wheel once per hour — this
wheel has a shaft that goes through the dial. On the dial side the cannon pinion is attached with a
friction fit (allowing it to slide when setting the hands) and the minute hand is attached to the cannon
pinion. The cannon pinion drives a small 12-to-1 reduction gearing called the motion work that turns
the hour wheel and hand once for every 12 revolutions of the minute hand.

The duration of run, runtime or power reserve of a mechanical watch is mainly a question of what
size of mainspring is used, which is, in turn, a question of how much power is needed and how much
room is available. If the movement is dirty or worn, the power may not transfer from the mainspring
efficiently to the escapement. Service can help restore a degraded runtime. Most mechanical watch
movements have a duration of run between 36 and 72 hours. Some mechanical watch movements are
able to run for a week. The exact duration of run for a mechanical movement is calculated with this
formula:[8]
n2 = (n1 * z1) / z2

z1 = Number of barrel teeth

z2 = Number of center pinion leaves
n1 = Number of revolutions of the barrel
n2 = Number of revolutions of the center pinion (duration of run)

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Wheel train

The center wheel drives the pinion of the third wheel, and the third wheel drives the pinion of the
fourth wheel. In watches with the seconds hand in a subsidiary seconds dial, usually located above
the 6 o'clock position, the fourth wheel is geared to rotate once per minute, and the second hand is
attached directly to the arbour of this wheel.

Escapement

The fourth wheel also drives the escape wheel

of the lever escapement. The escape wheel
teeth alternately catch on two fingers called
pallets on the arms of the pallet lever, which
rocks back and forth. The other end of the
lever has a fork which engages with an upright
impulse pin on the balance wheel shaft. Each
time the balance wheel swings through its Animated watch movement. For clarity in this diagram the
center position, it unlocks the lever, which watch gears are arranged in a line, with the balance wheel
releases one tooth of the escape wheel, on the left and the hands on separate wheels, rather than
allowing the watch's wheels to advance by a located concentrically as in an actual watch.
fixed amount, moving the hands forward. As
the escape wheel turns, its tooth pushes
against the lever, which gives the balance wheel a brief push,
keeping it swinging back and forth.

Balance wheel

The balance wheel keeps time for the watch. It consists of a

weighted wheel which rotates back and forth, which is returned
toward its center position by a fine spiral spring, the balance
spring or "hair spring". The wheel and spring together constitute
a harmonic oscillator. The mass of the balance wheel combines
with the stiffness of the spring to precisely control the period of
each swing or 'beat' of the wheel. A balance wheel's period of
oscillation T in seconds, the time required for one complete cycle
(two beats), is The movement of a chronograph
pocketwatch from the 1880s.

where is the wheel's moment of inertia in kilogram-meter2 and is the stiffness (spring constant)
of its balance spring in newton-meters per radian. Most watch balance wheels oscillate at 5, 6, 8, or
10 beats per second. This translates into 2.5, 3, 4, and 5 Hz respectively, or 18000, 21,600, 28,800,
and 36,000 beats per hour (BPH). In most watches there is a regulator lever on the balance spring
which is used to adjust the rate of the watch. It has two curb pins which embrace the last turn of the
spring, and can be slid up or down the spring to control its effective length. Sliding the pins up the
spring, shortening the spring's length, makes it stiffer, increasing in the equation above, decreasing
the wheel's period so it swings back and forth faster, causing the watch to run faster.

Keyless work

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A separate set of gears called the keyless work winds the mainspring when the crown is rotated, and
when the crown is pulled out a short distance allow the hands to be turned to set the watch. The stem
attached to the crown has a gear called the clutch or castle wheel, with two rings of teeth that project
axially from the ends. When the stem is pushed in, the outer teeth turn the ratchet wheel on top of
the mainspring barrel, which turns the shaft that the inner end of the mainspring is attached to,
winding the mainspring tighter around the shaft. A spring-loaded pawl or click presses against the
ratchet teeth, preventing the mainspring from unwinding. When the stem is pulled out, the inner
teeth of the castle wheel engage with a gear which turns the minute wheel. When the crown is turned,
the friction coupling of the cannon pinion allows the hands to be rotated.

Center seconds

If the seconds hand is co-axial with the minute and hour hand, that is it is pivoted at the center of the
dial, this arrangement is called "center seconds" or "sweep seconds", because the seconds hand
sweeps around the minute track on the dial.

Initially center seconds hands were driven off the third wheel, sometimes via an intermediate wheel,
with the gearing on the outside of the top plate. This method of driving the seconds hand is called
indirect center seconds. Because the gearing was outside the plates, it added to the thickness of the
movement, and because the rotation of the third wheel had to be geared up to turn the seconds hand
once a minute, the seconds hand had a fluttering motion.[9]

In 1948 Zenith introduced a watch with a redesigned gear train where the fourth wheel was at the
center of the movement, and so could drive a center seconds hand directly. The minute wheel, which
had previously been at the center of the movement, was moved off center and drove the minute hand
indirectly. Any fluttering due to the indirect gearing is concealed by the relatively slow movement of
the minute hand. This redesign brought all the train gearing between the plates and allowed a thinner
movement.[10]

Watch jewels
Jewel bearings were invented and introduced in watches by
Nicolas Fatio (or Facio) de Duillier and Pierre and Jacob
Debaufre around 1702[11][12] to reduce friction. They did not
become widely used until the mid-19th century. Until the
20th century they were ground from tiny pieces of natural
gems. Watches often had garnet, quartz, or even glass jewels;
only top quality watches used sapphire or ruby.[11] In 1902, a
process to grow artificial sapphire crystals was invented,
making jewels much cheaper. Jewels in modern watches are
all synthetic sapphire or (usually) ruby, made of corundum Jewel bearing and capstone used in
(Al2O3), one of the hardest substances known. The only balance wheel pivot

difference between sapphire and ruby is that different

impurities have been added to change the color; there is no
difference in their properties as a bearing.[13] The advantage of using jewels is that their ultrahard
slick surface has a lower coefficient of friction with metal. The static coefficient of friction of steel-on-
steel is 0.58, while that of sapphire-on-steel is 0.10-0.15.[14]

Purposes

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Jewels serve two purposes in a watch.[15] First, reduced

friction can increase accuracy. Friction in the wheel train
bearings and the escapement causes slight variations in the
impulses applied to the balance wheel, causing variations in
the rate of timekeeping. The low, predictable friction of jewel
surfaces reduces these variations. Second, they can increase
the life of the bearings. In unjeweled bearings, the pivots of
the watch's wheels rotate in holes in the plates supporting
the movement. The sideways force applied by the driving
gear causes more pressure and friction on one side of the Ordinary 'hole jewel' bearing
hole. In some of the wheels, the rotating shaft can wear away
the hole until it is oval shaped, eventually causing the gear to
jam, stopping the watch.

Types

In the escapement, jewels are used for the parts that work by sliding friction:[15]

Pallets - These are the angled rectangular surfaces on the lever that are pushed against by the
teeth of the escape wheel. They are the main source of friction in a watch movement, and were
one of the first sites to which jewels were applied.
Impulse pin - The off center pin on a disk on the balance staff which is pushed by the lever fork, to
keep the balance wheel moving.

In bearings two different types are used:

Hole jewels - These are donut shaped sleeve bearings used to support the arbor (shaft) of most
wheels.
Capstones or cap jewels - When the arbor of a wheel is in the vertical position, the shoulder of
the arbor bears against the side of the hole jewel, increasing friction. This causes the rate of the
watch to change when it is in different positions. So in bearings where friction is critical, such as
the balance wheel pivots, flat capstones are added at each end of the arbor. When the arbor is in
a vertical position, its rounded end bears against the surface of the capstone, lowering friction.

Where they are used

Where jewels are used in watches[16][17][18]
The number of jewels used in watch movements
7 jewel lever watch - has these jewels:
increased over the last 150 years as jeweling grew less
expensive and watches grew more accurate. The only 1 impulse pin
bearings that really need to be jeweled in a watch are
2 pallets
the ones in the going train - the gear train that
transmits force from the mainspring barrel to the 2 balance staff bearings
balance wheel - since only they are constantly under 2 balance staff capstones
force from the mainspring. [19] The wheels that turn the 11 jewel watch - adds:
hands (the motion work) and the calendar wheels are
not under load, while the ones that wind the 2 lever bearings
mainspring (the keyless work) are used very seldom, 2 escape wheel bearings
so they do not wear significantly. Friction has the 15 jewel watch - adds:
greatest effect in the wheels that move the fastest, so
they benefit most from jewelling. So the first 2 fourth wheel bearings
mechanism to be jeweled in watches was the balance 2 third wheel bearings
wheel pivots, followed by the escapement. As more
17 jewel watch - adds:
jeweled bearings were added, they were applied to
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slower moving wheels, and jewelling progressed up the 2 center wheel bearings
going train toward the barrel. A 17 jewel watch has 21 jewel watch - adds:
every bearing from the balance wheel to the center
wheel pivot bearings jeweled, so it was considered a 2 lever capstones
'fully jeweled' watch. [16] In quality watches, to 2 escape wheel capstones
minimize positional error, capstones were added to the 23 jewel watch - adds:
lever and escape wheel bearings, making 21 jewels.
Even the mainspring barrel arbor was sometimes 2 mainspring barrel bearings
jeweled, making the total 23. When self-winding Self winding watches add 4 or more
watches were introduced in the 1950s, several wheels
in the automatic winding mechanism were jeweled, in the winding mechanism, for a total of 25-27
increasing the count to 25–27.

'Jewel inflation'

It is doubtful whether adding jewels in addition to the ones listed above is really useful in a watch.[20]
It does not increase accuracy, since the only wheels which have an effect on the balance wheel, those
in the going train, are already jeweled. Marine chronometers, the most accurate portable timepieces,
often have only 7 jewels. Nor does jeweling additional wheel bearings increase the useful life of the
movement; as mentioned above most of the other wheels do not get enough wear to need them.

However, by the early 20th century watch movements had been standardized to the point that there
was little difference between their mechanisms, besides quality of workmanship. So watch
manufacturers made the number of jewels, one of the few metrics differentiating quality watches, a
major advertising point, listing it prominently on the watch's face. Consumers, with little else to go
on, learned to equate more jewels with more quality in a watch. Although initially this was a good
measure of quality, it gave manufacturers an incentive to increase the jewel count.

Around the 1960s this 'jewel craze' reached new heights, and manufacturers made watches with 41,
53, 75, or even 100 jewels.[19][20] Most of these additional jewels were totally nonfunctional; they
never contacted moving parts, and were included just to increase the jewel count. For example, the
Waltham 100 jewel watch consisted of an ordinary 17 jewel movement, with 83 tiny pieces of ruby
mounted around the automatic winding rotor.[21]

In 1974, the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) in collaboration with the Swiss
watch industry standards organization Normes de l'Industrie Horlogère Suisse (NIHS) published a
standard, ISO 1112, which prohibited manufacturers from including such nonfunctional jewels in the
jewel counts in advertising and sales literature. This stopped the use of totally nonfunctional jewels.
However, some experts say manufacturers have continued to inflate the jewel count of their watches
by 'upjeweling'; adding functional jeweled bearings to wheels that do not really need them, exploiting
loopholes in ISO 1112.[20] Examples given include adding capstones to third and fourth wheel
bearings, jeweling minute wheel bearings, and automatic winding ratchet pawls. Arguably none of
these additions adds to the accuracy or longevity of the watch.

World time
Some fine mechanical watches will have a world time feature, which is a city bezel as well as an hour
bezel which will rotate according to the cities relative time zone.

There are usually 27 cities (corresponding to 24 major time zones) on the city bezel, starting with
GMT/UTC:

UTC±00:00 - London

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UTC+01:00 - Amsterdam
UTC+01:00 - Berlin
UTC+01:00 - Brussels
UTC+01:00 - Paris
UTC+02:00 - Cairo
UTC+03:00 - Moscow
UTC+04:00 - Abu Dhabi/Dubai
UTC+05:00 - Karachi
UTC+06:00 - Dhaka
UTC+07:00 - Bangkok
UTC+08:00 - Taipei / Beijing / Hong Kong
UTC+09:00 - Seoul / Tokyo
UTC+10:00 - Sydney / Melbourne
UTC+11:00 - Nouméa
UTC+12:00 - Auckland
UTC+13:00 - Samoa
UTC−10:00 - Honolulu
UTC−09:00 - Anchorage
UTC−08:00 - Los Angeles / Vancouver
UTC−07:00 - Denver
UTC−06:00 - Chicago
UTC−05:00 - New York City / Toronto
UTC−04:00 - Caracas / Puerto Rico
UTC−03:00 - Buenos Aires
UTC−02:00 - South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands
UTC−01:00 - Azores

History
Peter Henlein has often been described as the inventor of the first pocket watch, the "Nuremberg
egg", in 1510, but this claim appears to be a 19th-century invention and does not appear in older
sources.[22]

Until the quartz revolution of the 1970s, all watches were mechanical. Early watches were terribly
imprecise; a good one could vary as much as 15 minutes in a day. Modern precision (a few seconds
per day) was not attained by any watch until 1760, when John Harrison created his marine
chronometers. Precision was attained as from 1854 first by the Waltham Watch Company, through
the industrialisation of the manufacturing process of the movement part, in order to attain the
necessary precision: they won a gold medal at the 1876 Philadelphia Centennial Exposition with a lot
of watches taken at random out of the production line, showing the way to their peers in U.S.A. (e.g.
Elgin Watch Company) and the worldwide watch industry.

Mechanical watches are powered by a mainspring. Modern mechanical watches require of the order
of 1 microwatt of power on average. Because the mainspring provides an uneven source of power (its
torque steadily decreases as the spring unwinds), watches from the early 16th century to the early
19th century featured a chain-driven fusee which served to regulate the torque output of the
mainspring throughout its winding. Unfortunately, the fusees were very brittle, were very easy to
break, and were the source of many problems, especially inaccuracy of timekeeping when the fusee
chain became loose or lost its velocity after the lack of maintenance.

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As new kinds of escapements were created which served to better isolate the watch from its time
source, the balance spring, watches could be built without a fusee and still be accurate.

In the 18th century the original verge escapement, which required a fusee, was gradually replaced in
better French watches with the cylinder escapement, and in British watches with the duplex
escapement. Then in the 19th century both were superseded by the lever escapement which has been
used almost exclusively ever since. A cheaper version of the lever, the pin lever escapement, patented
in 1867 by Georges Frederic Roskopf was used in inexpensive watches until the 1970s.

As manual-wound mechanical watches became less popular and less favored in the 1970s, watch
design and industrialists came out with the automatic watch. Whereas a mechanically-wound watch
must be wound with the pendant or a levered setting, an automatic watch does not need to be wound
by the pendant; simply rotating the watch winds the watch automatically. The interior of an
automatic watch houses a swiveling metal or brass "plate" that swivels on its axis when the watch is
shaken horizontally.[23]

See also
Chronograph
History of watches
Jewel bearing
Quartz watch
Railroad chronometers
Skeleton watch
Tourbillon
Marine chronometer
ETA SA
Lemania

References
1. Hahn, Ed; et al. (The TimeZone Community) (2003-10-04). "Question 1.5: Why should I get a
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Retrieved 2017-02-20.
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Analysis and Cultural Meaning (https://books.google.com/books?id=Hw4N7MAd8dYC&pg=PA14
9&dq=%22mechanical+watch%22+%22quartz+watch%22+accurate). Berg. pp. 148–149.
ISBN 1845203909.
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hool/mainspring-disassembly.html)
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080701) on 2012-09-14. Retrieved 2012-01-04.
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23058687082). Archived from the original (http://www.timezone.com/library/horologium/horologiu
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synthetic ruby?" (http://www.timezone.com/2003/10/04/mechanical-watch-faq/). Mechanical
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l). Help. The Elgin Watch Collector's Site. Retrieved 2008-07-02.
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V1.0. TimeZone.com. Retrieved 2008-07-02.
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better?" (http://www.timezone.com/2003/10/04/mechanical-watch-faq/). Mechanical Watch FAQ
V1.0. TimeZone.com. Retrieved 2008-07-02.
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h0025) on July 2, 2008. Retrieved 2008-07-02.
21. Photos of it can be seen in Berkavicius article
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University of Chicago Press, 1996, ISBN 0-226-15510-2.
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Mechanism" (http://horologyzone.com/watch/watch-school/automatic-watch-disassembly.html).
horologyzone.com. Retrieved 11 January 2018.

External links
Video Assembly of a Rolex 3135 Mechanical Watch Movement, Alliance Horlogere (https://web.ar
chive.org/web/20110707113429/http://hiro.alliancehorlogere.com/en/Under_the_Loupe/Rolex_31
35)
Hand-winding Mechanical Watch Movement Disassembly (http://horologyzone.com/watch/watch-
school/watch-movement-disassembly.html)
Disassembling a mechanical wristwatch, Horlogerie-Suisse (https://web.archive.org/web/2008032
4133019/http://www.horlogerie-suisse.com/Theoriehorlogerie/disassembling-mechanical-watch.ht
ml)
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Reassembling a mechanical wristwatch, Horlogerie-Suisse (https://web.archive.org/web/2008030

2113522/http://www.horlogerie-suisse.com/Theoriehorlogerie/reassembling-mechanical-watch.ht
ml)
Working of a simple mechanical watch, Horlogerie-Suisse (https://web.archive.org/web/20071225
063804/http://www.horlogerie-suisse.com/Theoriehorlogerie/fonction-anglais.html)
Explanations Of The Mechanical Movements In A Watch, TimeZone.com (https://web.archive.org/
web/20080701150436/http://www.timezone.com/library/wwatchfaq/wwatchfaq6316685910176655
98)
Automatic Movements Of A Mechanical Watch, How Stuff Works (http://electronics.howstuffwork
s.com/question285.htm)
Video: The Inner Workings of a Mechanical Watch (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gOmFn7rj
hY4)
Caliber Guide (https://www.professionalwatches.com/caliber-guide/)

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