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42 Contents | C&T
October 2021 | Volume 136, number 9
6 Editor’s Note
Kindness = Wellness
7 Industry Insight
Health and ‘Smell’ness: Perfume to
Dial Up Emotion and Well-being
7 [video] How Fragrance Inspires

Emotion and Wellness
with D. Garcia
64 Ad Index
Market Intelligence
8 Product Roundup
10 New Ingredients & Technologies
14 Evoking Emotion
Well-aging Sensations, Just a Gentle Touch
by K. Steventon, Ph.D.
18 Expert Opinions: Holistic Approaches

to Anti-aging
Beauty Biology, ‘Anxi-Aging,’ Stress and
Nurturing Nature
Research
20 The Ins and Outs of Aging
Intrinsic/Extrinsic Factors and Nutricosmetic Fixes
20
by N. Caturla, Ph.D.
21 From the Vault

Carotenoids: In Skin’s Defense
32 32 Skin Reset

TCM-inspired Reishi Mushroom to Reprogram
Signs of Aging
by S. Hettwer, Ph.D. et al.
Testing
42 Wellness by Design
Positive Comparison Patterns to Engage Latin
American Consumers Through Fragrance
by J. Jiménez, et al.
2 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 9 | October 2021
CT2110_TOC_Masthead_fcx_DM.indd 2 9/22/21 11:30 AM

Editor’s note | C&T ®
Contents | C&T
The Definitive Peer-Reviewed Cosmetic Science Resource
EDITORIAL
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ADVERTISING SALES
Director of Sales Tony Dellamaria | 1-630-344-6020/tdellamaria@allured.com
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54
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SOCIAL MEDIA
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Formulating Marketing Specialist Bianca Esposito

Customer Service 1-847-559-7558/customerservice@cosmeticsandtoiletries.com
54 Sustainable and Safe DESIGN

Sultaines for Consumer-Focused Design Manager Kim Fry
Senior Graphic Designer James Fergus
Surfactant Performance
Production Manager Bryan Crowe
by D. Abbeduto
CORPORATE
62 Skin and Hair Cleansing/Care Partner & CEO George Fox
Formulary Partner & President Janet Ludwig
Director of Events Maria Prior
Digital Products Director Rose Southard
DM5 Expanded Skin and Hair Cleansing/ Executive Assistant Maria Romero
Care Formulary
OTHER ALLURED PRODUCTS

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CT2110_TOC_Masthead_fcx_DM.indd 4 9/22/21 11:31 AM

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Editor’s Note | C&T
Kindness = Wellness
Rachel L. Grabenhofer
Managing Scientific Editor
rgrabenhofer@allured.com
Scientific
Advisory Board
Eric Abrutyn
TPC2 Advisors Ltd.
Jean-Christophe Choulot
Caudalíe
Kindness is in vogue. Recently, I learned about caremongering, which Zoe Diana Draelos, M.D.
according to BBC News was initiated by a cohort of Canadian Facebook groups. Dermatology
Consulting Services
The collective made headlines at the beginning of the pandemic when more
than 35 joined together to offer each other help in various forms; especially for Angela R. Eppler, Ph.D.
GlaxoSmithKline
those at high risk of contracting COVID-19. Group co-founder Valentina Harper
Trefor Evans, Ph.D.
described this idea as creating a “contagion of kindness.”1 This spurred a wave TA Evans LLC/TRI Princeton
of altruism throughout social media around the world. Assistance ranged from
S. Peter Foltis
proxy shopping and cooking meals, to deliveries and back-and-forth messages Independent Consultant
about supply availability at local stores. There was even one report from Spain
Mindy Goldstein, Ph.D.
of an exercise class for quarantined residents being held on their balconies.1 Mindy S. Goldstein, Ph.D. Consulting
Kindness should be internalized as well, and is reflected by the self-care John Jiménez
movement.2 During our relative isolation, we have learned the importance Belcorp Colombia
of maintaining our own health and wellness—especially in the face of Karl Laden, Ph.D.
unprecedented stress. This includes taking measures to ensure safety, Alpa Cosmetics
re-evaluating priorities, letting go of non-essentials and seeking ways to relax. Howard I. Maibach, M.D.
University of California, San Francisco
In relation, as Global Cosmetic Industry reported, from May 2020 to 2021, scent-
centric wellness products to relieve stress saw major increases.3 Prithwiraj Maitra, Ph.D.
Allergan/Skinmedica
This issue of C&T embraces several facets of the wellness space, starting
on Page 42 with an novel approach to design fragrance that elicit happiness, Jennifer Marsh, Ph.D.
Procter & Gamble
a sense of energy or relaxation in consumers. In terms of safety, on Page 54,
Marc Pissavini, Ph.D.
sultaines are presented as a safe, effective and sustainable surfactant option. Coty-Lancaster
Well aging is also a major focus. On Page 20, we take a deep dive into
Luigi Rigano, Ph.D.
internal and external mechanisms of aging and present nutricosmetic solutions Industrial Consulting Research
to address them. A Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM)-inspired extract of
Steve Schnittger, Ph.D.
Ganoderma lucidum (reishi mushroom) is explored on Page 32 to “reset” skin’s The Estée Lauder Companies
epigenetic clock. The sensation of touch to promote well aging is examined on
Ron Sharpe
Page 14. And, experts weigh in on holistic approaches to anti-aging on Page 18. Amway
We hope this month’s collection supports the wellness of your cosmetic R&D Leslie C. Smith, Ph.D.
projects—and inspires kindness. Consultant
David C. Steinberg
Steinberg & Associates
1. https://www.bbc.com/news/world-us-canada-51915723
Peter Tsolis
2. https://bit.ly/3E0jigW The Estée Lauder Companies
3. https://bit.ly/3A2ZvLi
Russel Walters, Ph.D.
Johnson & Johnson
Join us for Beauty Accelerate Virtual on Claudie Willemin
Oct. 18-21, 2021, featuring data briefings, Independent Consultant
technical talks, panel discussions and more. Shuliang Zhang, Ph.D.

Coty, Inc.
For more information visit www.beautyaccelerate.com
6 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
CT2110_Editors_Note_fcx.indd 6 9/15/21 11:34 AM

Industry Insight | C&T
Health and ‘Smell’ness: Perfume to

Dial Up Emotion and Well-being
Uncertainty and stress are typical struggles within today’s COVID-19
reality. To help consumers not just cope but blossom under this chal-
lenging dynamic, fragrance can serve as a tool to tap into deep emotion
and memory, and elicit positive experiences and a sense of security.
Exploring these effects in detail, Daniela Garcia (DG), éskia Executive
Brand Director for Belcorp Latin America, and co-authors report
their findings in this month’s feature article, beginning on Page 42.
Garcia provides additional insights in the following excerpt adapted
from our video interview.
C&T: How can perfumes help consumers cope with today’s

emotional roller coaster?
DG: The reality is, my brand, ésika, has been in the business of helping
women feel more confident as a purpose. We truly believe that when we
feel confident, we look beautiful and when we look beautiful, we feel
confident. It’s a virtuous cycle.
We already knew fragrance has a positive influence: when you smell
nice, you feel comfortable and feel secure; but we wanted to go beyond,
to understand how fragrance can transport us and help us to cope with
this new daily life. It’s needed more and more, and this will continue
with COVID-19, because we have become much more in touch with
needing to be well “here” in order to really perform well “out there.”
C&T: How can perfumes activate emotions and

influence wellness?
DG: The olfactory bulb receives the fragrance signal and transmits
it to the amygdala to our brain, which is the center for emotions.
We wanted to further understand this connection. When you smell
something you like, you can have a psychological and
physiological response that can also give rise to an
emotional memory.
For example, I had once worked with a perfumer and
he gave us a “wood” inspired scent. When I sampled it, I Video
was completely transported to my childhood and I felt a
super positive emotion. It took me to a time when I trav-
How Fragrance Inspires Emotion
and Wellness
eled with my parents to New Hampshire, where they had
a house, and these were very happy times for me. When
I told the perfumer about this, he almost started crying...
He was from New Hampshire and this had inspired him
while developing the fragrance. And I completely got it.
The point is, the scent triggers emotions and reactions
and can also trigger an emotional memory that connects
you to your past, bringing back vivid memories to a very
specific aroma. These were the types of connections we
were looking for, to use perfumery as a powerful tool to
produce and bring forth a sense of well-being. In this
case, for the research project, we were talking about
the senses of being calm, happy and more energetic.
We were trying to dial up these emotions in Latin
American panelists to instill a positive mood.
Vol. 136, No. 9 | October 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries |7
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Product Roundup [Ingredients, Equipment & Services]
Highlighting innovative ingredients, services and products
Puresterol BELSIL DADM 3240 E

Bio-Botanica Inc. Wacker
bio-botanica.com/?s=puresterol wacker.com/cms/en-de/insights/belsil-velvety-hair.html
Puresterol (INCI: Pueraria Mirifica) acts as an anti-wrinkle agent, Shampoos containing the co-emulsion BELSIL DADM 3240 E (INCI:
helping to smooth wrinkled skin. It also supports healthy hair growth, Dimethicone (and) Bis-Hydroxy/Methoxy/Methyl Amodimethicone
improves eye health and supports restful sleep. Crosspolymer (and) Trideceth-10) improve the silkiness of damaged
hair more than twice as much as shampoos containing conventional
dimethicones. Just 0.8% silicone is enough to generate this effect in
mild, sulfate-free shampoos.
Filagrinol Sensisorb CF+

Vevy Europe Spa Sensient Cosmetic Technologies
vevy.com/ sensient-cosmetics.com/product/sensisorb-cf/
As a powerful epidermal moisturizer from botanical sources with Sensisorb CF+ (INCI: Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P Cresol (and) Bu-
antioxidant and anti-lipoperoxidation activity, Filagrinol (INCI: Pollen tylphthalimide (and) Isopropylphthalimide (and) Ethylhexyl Salicylate
Extract (and) Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil Unsaponifiables (and) Olea (and) Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane) is a new generation of color
Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables (and) Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) and fragrance protectants for fine fragrances and cosmetic formula-
Germ Oil Unsaponifiables) modulates the production of profilaggrin tions. This patented composition of organic UVA and UVB filters is free
and, thus, filaggrin—with a key role the final keratinization process of BHT and OMC (octyl methoxycinnamate). Tests with 16 combina-
and in the increase of NMF. The ingredient can be formulated in tions of fragrances and dyes have highlighted its efficacy.
products for dehydrated and sensitive skin, anti-aging, sun damage,
dyskeratosis, rhagades, psoriasis and diabetic skin.
CT2110_Roundup_fcx.indd 8 9/15/21 11:57 AM

Campo Siddha Medico Botanical Extracts AlphaAging
Campo Research Acme-Hardesty Company
campo-research.com/ ulprospector.com/en/na/PersonalCare/Detail/4237/1459562/
Traditional Siddha Medicinal Botanical Herbs (INCI: Vary) exhibit AlphaAging
safe discoloration or coloration for the hair, skin, lips and eye AlphaAging (INCI: Bisabolol (and) Mauritia Flexuosa Fruit Oil) is a new
area without irritation or allergies. The herbs impart long-lasting, rejuvenating, 100% natural active complex proven to decrease wrinkles
colorful effects and photoprotection with a vegan classification and fine lines. It promotes an immediate lifting effect and improves
and botanical DNA core identity. The contain no water pollut- firmness, lightness and elasticity of the skin. The active encourages
ants, EU 86+ allergens or IFRA allergens. skin reparation and protects the barrier against pollution an various
external aggressors.
Volpura EP
Biocogent LLC
youtube.com/watch?v=TzfqKmEwioI&feature=youtu.be
Plump, firm and volumize naturally with Volpura EP (INCI: Echinacea Purpurea (and)
Propanediol), a clinically-proven plant-derived ingredient that delivers anti-aging
and skin-soothing benefits through volumizing, contouring and skin firming. The
ingredient is produced from Echinacea purpurea using sophisticated extraction and
purification technologies in a process that is nearly carbon-neutral. New data shows
rapid user results in just 10 days.
Vol. 136, No. 9 | October 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries |9
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New Ingredients & Technologies
Featuring the latest products, ingredients, technologies, services, data and more
Chromapol ColorPOP Lycoderm

Lubrizol Life Science—Beauty (LLS Beauty) Lycored
Chromapol ColorPOP (INCI: Polyurethane-10) polymer provides Lycoderm is a proprietary blend of tomato phytonutrients and
color protection and long-lasting performance in permanent, rosemary leaf that reportedly offers optimal concentrations of
semi-permanent and temporary colors, as well as shampoos, lycopene, phytoene, phytofluene and carnosic acid. The syner-
conditioners and leave-on treatments. gistic combination of these nutrients helps balance the skin’s
response to sun exposure and environmental stress.
Actique Hyal Matrix

Jarchem
Actique Hyal Matrix (INCI: Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
(and) Sodium Hyaluronate (and) Sodium Acetylated Hyaluro-
nate (and) Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate (and) Hyaluronic
Acid (and) Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans (and) Hydrolyzed
Hyaluronic Acid (and) Water (Aqua)) fits seven different ac-
tive components into one skin ingredient. The active imparts
extensive hydration deep into the skin and intense, long-term
moisturization from the hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans. It is
said to boost formulations for layered skin benefits.
Azeclair P
Corum
Azeclair P (INCI: Potas-
sium Azeloyl Diglycinate)
is a greener version of
its predecessor, Azeclair.
Azeclair P is designed
for oily and acne-prone
skin and demonstrates
high efficacy for sebum
normalizing, skin bright-
SinoVital Cranberry Fruit D.E. ≥ 30% Proanthocyanidins ening, moisturizing and
Sino LifeScience anti-pollution benefits.
SinoVital Cranberry Fruit D.E. ≥ 30% Proanthocyanidins (INCI: Not
Provided) impart healing and antioxidative properties for a wide variety
of applications, and make formulas more effective and sustainable.
CT2110_New_Ingred_Tech_fcx.indd 10 9/15/21 12:01 PM

Retinaturel
Adeka
Retinaturel (INCI: Glycerin (and) Retinal) contains natural retinal
produced in the halophilic microorganism Halobacterium salinarum.
Retinal is the direct precursor of retinoic acid and has been shown to
exert anti-photoaging activity with fewer side effects than those typical
of other retinoids.
X-Solve
Sinerga
X-Solve (INCI: Ethyl Ximenynate (and) Lecithin (and) Caprylic/
Capric Triglyceride (and) Glycerin) is provided in a patented
encapsulation system to better deliver its active compound for
increased and faster efficacy. It influxes blood circulation to
the scalp to ensure the scalp takes in essential nutrients and
oxygen in order to maintain health.
BiomEco
Synergio
BiomEco (INCI: Not Provided) contains a range of broad-spectrum
antimicrobial components to target specified microorganisms at low
concentrations. Not only can it function for antimicrobial properties,
but it also can be formulated as an antioxidant, chelating agent
and surfactant.
Crodarom Cider Vinegar EC

Croda
Galsoft SLL Dedicated to rebalancing skin
prone to seborrhea or acne, and
Galaxy Surfactants Ltd.
greasy hair with dandruff, Cro-
Galsoft SLL (INCI: Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate) is a condensa- darom Cider Vinegar EC (INCI:
tion product of lactic acid and lauric acid, and is a mild and Not Provided) is a fermented
multifunctional molecule. It is said to provide a foam profile, health and well-being ingredi-
improved emollience, moisturization and sensorial properties in ent made from apple cider with
both leave-on and rinse-off formulations. reported astringent, antibacterial
and balancing powers.
Vol. 136, No. 9 | October 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries | 11
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New Ingredients & Technologies
Ultramarine Violet
Gelest, Inc.
Ultramarine Violet (INCI: Varies) is a surface-treated
Black Light-equipped YouV SPF30 ultramarine pigment that creates bright shades to soft
YouV pastels in eye makeup and powders. The surface treat-
YouV SPF 30 is a broad spectrum mineral sunscreen developed to fluoresce ments reportedly increase durability, lower oil absorp-
under black light. A black light is built into the packaging for convenience and tion, improve skin adhesion, enhance water repellency
when used indoors or in shade, it illuminates the product applied to skin. This and facilitate dispersion processing in formulations. The
reveals to the user where they have applied the product—and what spots they ultramarines are available with trimethylsiloxysilicate (SR),
have missed. stearyl triethoxysilane (SS) and triethoxycaprylylsilane (TC)
surface treatments.
Seanactiv Cosphaderm Zinc Lactate natural

BASF Care Creations Cosphatec GmbH
Seanactiv (INCI: Water (Aqua) (and) Fucus Vesiculosus Extract (and) Glucono- Cosphaderm Zinc Lactate natural (INCI: Zinc Lactate)
lactone (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Sodium Chloride) is a bioactive that targets exhibits antimicrobial properties against bacteria and
multiple eye area concerns while simultaneously addressing the need for yeasts, and as a zinc salt, it is said to provide the anti-
natural sourcing and health-boosting ingredients. inflammatory properties for which zinc is known. It also
offers deodorizing effects.
Reflecks MD Midnight Cherry

Sun Chemical
Reflecks MD Midnight Cherry (INCI: Not Provided) is a black-
ened metallic-like effect pigment based on calcium sodium
borosilicate that utilizes a multilayer technology to deliver
intense chroma, color travel and sparkle. This pigment is
designed to shift from red to green.

BLIS Q24 Queen Garnet Cellular Extract
Blis Technologies Native Extracts & Nutrafruit
BLIS Q24 is a patented probiotic strain that starts on the skin as a live Queen Garnet Cellular Extract (INCI: Prunus Salicina Fruit
probiotic to reduce the number of “bad” bacteria in the microbiome. Extract) is a topical that harnesses the water-soluble
During its lifecycle, the strain also produces postbiotics and at the end, phyto-compound profile of the natural ingredient and its
breaks down to release lysates that calm inflammation and nourish derivatives to provide an array of benefits.
the skin.
DuraCirc
Alfa Laval Inficaf
The DuraCirc circumferential piston pump delivers Bio-Bean Ltd.
high efficiency, reliable operation, hygienic assur- Inficaf (INCI: Not Provided) is a sustainable raw material made from
ance with EHEDG and 3-A certification as standard, upcycled spent coffee grounds to be used as an exfoliant in cosmetics
and ease of maintenance. and skin care products.
T60 Integrated 360 Series

Mettler Toledo Product Inspection
The T60 Integrated 360 Series provides serialization
and aggregation of bottles and vials. The solution gives
a 360-degree picture of a large range of round contain-
ers, enabling it to read and verify the small product or
serialization codes printed directly onto the bottle or onto
the applied labels.

Market Intelligence | C&T
KEY POINTS
• Beyond market appeal, products
formulated to integrate all the human
senses can promote well-being.
• This column briefly reviews evidence in the

literature for connections between skin-feel,
application techniques and self care to not
only improve skin health, but also promote
well aging and overall well-being.
Evoking Emotion
Well-aging Sensations
I
Just a Gentle Touch
ntegrating all senses and biology into consumers’ skin care

Katerina Steventon, Ph.D. routines based on physiological evidence is becoming more
Independent Skincare Consultancy attractive for the industry. In fact, in previous columns, I have
Ltd. Yorkshire, UK discussed how skin-feel often precedes the onset of visible
consequences of skin barrier dysfunction, such as a patch of
redness, particularly in the face.
The “looking good, feeling good” mantra has been leveraged by
cosmetic branding but the orchestra of skin perceptions and biology
Reproduction in English or any other language of

14 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. Vol. 136, No. 9 | October 2021
© 2021 Allured Business Media.
CT2110_Mrkt_Intl_Steventon_fcx.indd 14 9/17/21 11:37 AM

A well-designed application technique comprising
a sequence of dynamic steps can balance
epidermal health and boost product efficacy.
should drive more interdisciplinary research five tactile skin models with step changes in
and innovation. Having reviewed hundreds of surface friction; the results confirmed that the
recently launched products as a benchmark smaller the surface friction, the softer the feel.3
for innovative brands, I cannot stress more The epidermis functions as a receptor and
the importance of skin-feel and self-care sensor, at the same time transmitting signals
aimed product application. Recent to the whole body. The sensory ability of the
brain research utilizing functional skin’s outermost layer, the stratum corneum,
magnetic resonance imaging (fMRI) in a state of constant renewal was previously
research confirms this. uncovered. Shiseido showed that keratinocyte
Taking care of facial skin by applying receptors allow the epidermis to feel not only
makeup even activates brain activity in air vibration or tactile pressures but light and
visually impaired consumers. Accord- color, and even sound. The nerve endings do not
ing to one study, applying makeup is reach toward the skin surface, so keratinocytes
a personally rewarding activity as it seem to first feel and then transmit signals to
strongly activates the reward system the nerves.
and the reward/memory system The brain and the skin have similar recep-
network—even in the absence of tors to induce excitation and inhibition, and
a visual area network. This study both produce a range of hormones to integrate
investigated the activity of different the body, e.g., oxytocin, which affects the
brain regions whose relevance we may human social realm. Kanebo research suggests
not fully understand at present. However, that body oxytocin increases and skin texture
it confirmed that beautifying and caring improves as more pleasant feelings are created
for facial skin is an activity that promotes by tactile stimulation during skin care, e.g.,
many aspects of well-being.1 when the face is covered with the palms.4
French research recently used another brain Tactile feelings are perhaps best explained in
monitoring technique, electroencephalography metaphors or analogies. When designing a new
(EEG), to evaluate consumers’ emotions during skin care product application technique, skin
real-time topical application of different o/w sensations susceptible to skin-feel that arise
emulsion formulations on the skin. EEG could from the friction coefficient, temperature and
shed more light on a consumer’s well-being— pressure as well as other information including
and the emotional impact of skin care is key in language and sound must be integrated. Also,
terms of consumer satisfaction.2 the skin on the face is thinner, with a weaker
skin barrier compared with the rest of the body
Skin Softness and Firmness and has evolved to become ever more sensitive
Merging effective science and psychologi- to cutaneous sensations.
cal research, Shiseido has pledged to further
pursue both the sensory effects and efficacy Skin Intelligence
of their products to resonate with consumers’ Working with the dynamic skin barrier
minds and skin comfort. The company jointly interplay seems to benefit the skin. When the
conducted research with Nagoya University and
reported on the perception of skin softness and
firmness in Japanese women aged from 20-69.
Want more from
Here, friction and the elasticity of the skin this author?
surface were closely related to the perception of For, “Stress Less with Skin Care,”
skin softness and firmness by consumers. Panel- check out page 18 in your
May 2021 digital magazine.
ists ranked their impression of softness using

Well-aging Sensations Well-aging Application Techniques
Since the skin on the face is thinner than the rest of the body, it has evolved to become more sensitive to cutaneous sensations.
stratum corneum is stripped, the epidermis auto- medicine has been provided by experiments
matically renews yet the quality of its barrier carried out by Tadashi Yano, the former
function depends on the environment; healing chairman of the Japan Society of Acupunc-
under occlusion is suboptimal. The epidermis ture and Moxibustion. Acupuncture points
maintains its condition by monitoring the that affect a certain organ are aligned along
amount of water evaporated. When exposed to a a meridian; observing such an intervention
dry environment, the dehydrated epidermis feels using ultrasound has reported changes to the
itchy and sensitive, susceptible to irritation, and organ. Anatomically, however, there is nothing
adapts by increasing thickness and resistance. to be seen, which suggests that the interaction
This change in shape in response to input from between the skin, nerves, blood vessels, etc.,
the environment constitutes learning. create an invisible pattern of information flow.7
In relation, a well-designed application
technique such as massage or acupressure can Awareness of Self
comprise a sequence of dynamic steps that Well-being and the sense of self, whether
balances epidermal health and boosts product articulated (as self-reported self-esteem) or
efficacy. Facial massage techniques ideally target unconscious (implicit self-esteem), is a theme
the CT afferents—a unique class of sensory related to healthy skin. The skin plays an
fibers optimally (at slow conduction velocity and important role in the sense of self as it provides
mechanical threshold) transducing gentle touch. a notion of a boundary. Much of this uncon-
Notably, to target CT afferents, microneurog- scious thought is produced not just by the brain
raphy maps are required and the CT afferents but through interaction with the whole body.
cannot be activated by topical application, cool- The skin is also immunologically inseparable
ing menthol or itch-inducing histamine.5 from the self; the skin is the most difficult organ
In addition, not only epidermal keratino- to transplant since it contains a large number of
cytes, but also the deformation and stretching Langerhans cells that make a rigorous immuno-
of facial skin with natural movements engages logical distinction between self and others.
mechanoreceptors to provide information on Visible skin conditions are also often associ-
facial movement to the brain.6 Acupressure and ated with lower self-esteem and were thought
acupuncture techniques, for instance, can serve to be predictive of repetitive scratching of the
purposes in facial care. The evidence behind epidermis as a result of the irritating and sooth-
acupuncture points and meridians of Oriental ing itch-scratch cycle. Interestingly, it is the
unconscious and implicit self-esteem alongside
the itch, not the self-reported self-esteem, that
predicts scratching behavior. This shows the
Want more from
limitation of self-reporting and questionnaires
this author?
where people may not be willing to represent
For, “Perceiving Aging Mentally and themselves less desirably, or do not recognize
Physically,” check out page 18 in your implicit self-esteem. This has often been shown
April 2021 digital magazine.
with individuals who suffer from dandruff.8
CT2110_Mrkt_Intl_Steventon_fcx.indd 16 9/15/21 12:13 PM

Conclusion
In summary, integrating all senses and biology
into consumers’ skin care routines with application
techniques based on physiological evidence is an
attractive option for the industry. Indeed, research has
confirmed that beautifying and caring for facial skin
is an activity that promotes many aspects of well-
being. Furthermore, consumer-perceived softness with
inferred links to structural changes may supersede the
traditional goal of anti-aging, such as targeting wrinkles
and sagging.
In terms of product use, application techniques
should factor in skin sensations susceptible to skin-feel
that can arise from not only the friction coefficient,
temperature and pressure, and duration, but also
other information including language and sound.
A well-designed technique can leverage a sequence
of dynamic steps to balance epidermal health and
boost product efficacy; this may include massage
and acupressure. Importantly, stress may affect
these processes negatively whereas eustress, e.g., an
elated experience in a shower, may have a positive
boundary-surrendering effect.
The goal of skin care is to optimize well-being.
Thus, advancing research in understanding sensory
changes in the epidermis induced by sound, scent and
tactile stimulation reflected in the brain would benefit
the cosmetic industry by highlighting its impact on
well-being and quality of life—an invaluable asset, still
often undervalued.
References
1. Behrens, M. (2021, Jul 6). Research finds applying makeup
activates the brain in the visually impaired. Cosmet Toilet. Avail-
able at: https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/research/biology/
Research-Finds-Applying-Makeup-Activates-the-Brain-in-the-Visually-
Impaired-574750021.html
2. Gabriel, D., et al. (2011). Emotional effects induced by the application
of a cosmetic product: a real-time electrophysiological evaluation. Appl
Sci 11(11) 4766.
3. Caldwell, G. (2020, Oct 12). Shiseido unveils research on skin
softness. Global Cosmetics News. Available at: https://www.global-
cosmeticsnews.com/shiseido-unveils-research-on-skin-softness/
4. Kao. (2018, Nov 15). Research on skin care linked to emotions:
research on skin care with a focus on stimulation that creates pleas-
ant feelings. Available at: https://www.kao.com/global/en/news/
rd/2018/20181115-001/
5. Löken, L.S., et al. (2021, Jul 3). A topographical and physiological
exploration of C-tactile afferents and their response to menthol and
histamine. bioRxiv.
6. Johansson, R. S., Trulsson, M., Olsson, K. A., and Abbs, J. H. (1988).
Mechanoreceptive afferent activity in the infraorbital nerve in man dur-
ing speech and chewing movements. Experi Brain Res 72(1) 209-214.
7. Denda, M. (2013, Dec 16). Interview #03: Feeling skin, thinking skin—
The Multifarious Functions of the Epidermis. Horiba, Ltd. Avaialbe at:
http://www.abiroh.com/en/body-earth/181.html
8. Godbehere, A., McDonald, L., Baines, F., Sutherland, C., and
Andrews, T.J. (2017, Apr 4). A dissociation in judgements of confi-
dence in people with dandruff based on self-reports compared to
reports from other observers. Int J Cosmet Sci 39(4) 457-464.

EXPERT
OPINIONS
Holistic
Approaches to
Anti-aging
Beauty Biology, ‘Anxi-Aging,’
Stress and Nurturing Nature
Contributors:
RACHEL GRABENHOFER AND
MICHELE BEHRENS, COSMETICS & TOILETRIES
SHLOMO KRISPIN, PH.D.,

IFF LUCAS MEYER COSMETICS
SAMI SELKÄLÄ, INNOMOST OY
C osmetic manufacturers are delving into
the biological mechanisms of skin aging
deeper than ever before. This is thanks to
some serious medical-grade technologies
as well as holistic thinking.
Beauty circulation: For example, this
year, Shiseido announced the launch of its over-the-counter touch-
less Skin Visualizer device to measure and visualize the condition
Vol. 136, No. 9 | October 2021
CT2110_Expert_Opinions_fcx_DM.indd 18 9/22/21 11:50 AM

of skin’s “beauty circulation.”1 According to the Skin glycation index: While Shiseido’s visual-
company, beauty circulation refers to the elements izer is a consumer-facing tool, on the R&D front,
of beauty that are circulating in the skin. In a a research team at LG Household & Health Care
survey conducted by the company in 2019, people in Seoul has developed and validated a facial
around the world described ideal skin as healthy glycation imaging system (FGIS) to assess skin’s
and vibrant. As such, the device measures condi- glycation index (SGI).2 The FGIS illuminates
tions that contribute to this state; i.e., radiance, and captures images of the face and calculates
resilience and suppleness, and fine skin texture/ advanced glycation end product (AGE)-related
smoothness. The level of each condition is visual- autofluorescence and total skin reflectance to
ized as part of a total Ultimate Triangle Score, obtain the SGI.
from which product recommendations are made. The work was validated against a volar forearm
Shiseido’s Ultimune Serum is one such prod- skin autofluorescence measurement device in a
uct whose formula was updated based on “The clinical study of 36 healthy Korean women. Cheek
Lifeblood” concept, which focuses on this idea of elasticity was negatively correlated with cheek skin
beauty circulation and the need for an individual’s glycation. Also, age was significantly correlated
beauty to be constantly renewed. The product with forearm and cheek skin glycation indices. The
incorporates the company’s ImuGenerationRED researchers concluded these results showed that
Technology, reportedly to protect skin’s present AGEs are likely to have a significant correlation
and future condition and to bring about lively and with loss in skin elasticity and that the FGIS device
radiant skin that is bright, resilient and smooth.1 can be useful to indicate the in situ degradation

Expert Opinions: Holistic Approaches to Anti-Aging
Calming ingredients are included in future anti-aging solutions.
of AGEs in the clinical assessment of anti- from 134 women 20 to 59 years of age and
glycation cosmetics.2 physical attributes of the skin were quantified
SSL-RNA and “biological age”: Kao Corp. using instruments, visual evaluation scores
also has skin in the game of anti-aging research. and quantitative data of skin components. The
At two recent scientific meetings, the company company then designed a predictive model
presented its skin surface lipids ribonucleic for 99 attributes of skin and body conditions
acid (SSL-RNA) monitoring technology, which based on the information collected. The team
can be used to determine a “biological” (rather employed AI to learn the patterns of correlation
than chronological) age of skin.3 This work among SSL-RNA expression, age information
was honored at the symposium of the Japanese and measured data of ~90% of these women.
Society of Cosmetic Chemists with the best AI was then used to predict the skin conditions
presentation award. of the remaining ~10% of the women based on
As Kao explains,4 aging is a phenomenon this information.
closely related to a decline in physical functions Results revealed that 86 of the attributes for
over time. The degree and symptoms vary even skin and body conditions—including moisture
among individuals of the same chronological levels, skin transparency (visually evaluated)
age. From these observations, the concept of and glycosylation of stratum corneum pro-
measuring skin’s biological age emerged. To teins—could be predicted with high precision
make such assessment, the company built upon based on SSL-RNA expression and age. Thus,
existing work. Previously, Kao had discovered SSL-RNA, in combination with machine learn-
the presence of human RNA in sebum and ing, was used to derive a biological age that
designed its SSL-RNA monitoring technology more strongly reflects the degree of skin aging
to analyze changes to predict atopic dermatitis than chronological age.4
in adults and young children. RNA expres- Vascularized full-thickness skin model:
sion patterns were found to vary from day to L’Oréal has taken it so far as to re-create the
day depending on health conditions and the substrate itself—after some 40 years of skin
environment. research engineering. While not the only skin
Kao utilized this technique to assess changes model in the R&D space, L’Oréal’s is said to
in RNA for aging. SSL-RNA samples were taken more accurately mimic real human skin, which
DM1 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 9 | October 2021

will allow researchers to better understand its Global Cosmetic Industry recently featured
interactions with the interior of the body via the a report on opportunities in the menopausal
bloodstream. beauty market including survey feedback from
According Sacha Salameh, Ph.D., and 2,000 American women about changes they are
co-authors,5 the full-thickness human skin experiencing and what they want from beauty
model has a mature epidermis and three brands.9 For example, 66% of menopausal
tubular structures with angiogenic “sprouts” women reported using additional anti-aging
that can be perfused associated with a complex facial skin care products. Also, 39% reached for
microvascular network. The integrity of each retinol products and lifting creams while 33%
compartment was successfully confirmed by changed to more hydrating facial creams and/or
histological immunofluorescence analysis to started used brightening treatments.
compare with normal human skin. This work The survey also indicated 79% of women
was honored with the Applied Research award wanted to purchase skin care from brands that
during the International Federation of the specifically target issues faced during meno-
Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) 31st pause. These include fine lines and wrinkles,
IFSCC Congress.6 dehydration, skin discoloration/age spots, oili-
ness, facial hair growth, hormonal acne, thin/
Market Receptivity and crepey skin, sagging and loss of elasticity.
Pro-aging It is important to note, however, that
consumers view aging in a much more positive
Backed by advances like these, anti-aging
light than they have in the past, which market-
and well aging beauty products have an eager
ers have embraced in recent years. For example,
and receptive consumer market waiting for
the Wall Street Journal highlights that in 2018,
them. The global facial skin care and makeup
Lancôme made Isabella Rossellini, then 63, the
market was valued at ~$145.5 billion in 2019
face of its Rénergie Multi-Glow moisturizer
and is set to reach ~$182.6 billion by 2027,
targeting the needs of women her age. Verane
according to Coherent Market insights. This
de Marffy, senior vice president of marketing at
segment also is expected to see a steady CAGR
Lancôme USA, described the product as ‘invest-
of 4.5% from 2020 to 2027.7 The firm attri-
ing in skin health’ rather than hiding one’s age.
butes this growth to rising awareness of the
The same report cites Allure magazine’s resolu-
benefits of facial care, which in recent years
tion in 2019 to stop using the term anti-aging in
has accounted for nearly 70% of overall skin
its articles.10
care revenue.
Among product types, facial creams have
accounted for the majority—boosted by
celebrity endorsements. Skin brightening Consumers view aging in a much more positive light
and anti-aging creams are in high demand to than they have in the past.
decrease age spots, brighten skin and diminish
wrinkles. Facial cleansers and washes, e.g.,
to address pollution and skin health, are also
expected gain momentum and even dip into
the male consumer segment thanks to growing
knowledge about skin care in the Gen Z group.7
Menopause beauty and well aging: Aligned
with the aging population, beauty marketers
have realized the changing skin care needs of
consumers entering perimenopause and meno-
pause. Bloomberg cited a report by the venture
capital firm Female Founders Fund estimating
the menopause market potential will reach $600
billion by 2025; Womaness projected it to be a
more conservative $150 billion.8
Vol. 136, No. 9 | October 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries | DM2

Expert Opinions: Holistic Approaches to Anti-Aging
Using climate-smart and ethical ingredients is the way forward, along with a holistic approach to skin care.
Today, mature consumers embrace aging as aging is well-known, although the underlying
a fact of life and seek products to ensure their mechanisms are not fully understood.
health and wellness to carry them through the “Evidence suggests that chronic
aging process. Younger consumers lean toward psychological stress stimulates the hypo-
both prevention and acceptance on one’s own thalamic-pituitary-adrenal axis, resulting in
terms. The anti-aging, well aging, pro-aging … chronic high levels of systemic stress hormones.
market will continue its upward trajectory for Interestingly, the skin is both a target of key
the foreseeable future but additional hurdles stress mediators and a local source for these
have emerged, adding layers of complexity to factors. Prolonged activation of these pathways
deliver results to consumers. Living through can result in chronic immune dysfunction,
an ongoing pandemic, for one, has shifted the oxidative stress and DNA damage, which are
market’s mindset in a pro-health direction.11 known to … accelerate the aging of skin—a
Industry experts weighed in on this and other process we have termed Anxi-Aging.”
factors relevant to holistic anti-aging and skin There are many healthy ways to cope with
care, as follows. anxiety and stress including regular exercise
or wellness programs, which may incorporate
Counteracting ‘Anxi-Aging’ meditation or breathing exercises. “Practicing
and Stress in Skin meditation results in a significant decrease in
Today’s consumer faces unprecedented levels DNA damage markers, oxidative stress markers
of stress. As Shlomo Krispin, Ph.D., product and inflammatory markers,” Krispin writes.
line manager for IFF Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, “Cosmetic brands update their formulations
explains it, “Anxiety and stress are conditions to incorporate stress-relieving ingredients,
characteristic of life in the modern world, and many of which try to target the central
the COVID-19 pandemic has increased [this] stress response.”
anxiety exponentially.” Krispin adds that the Targeting the peripheral stress response,
link between anxiety, psychological stress and according to Krispin, is therefore a novel

approach to fight Anxi-Aging. To achieve this, anti-aging effect. Betulin has anti-inflammatory,
IBR-Chill, an aqueous extract of pink rock- anti-oxidative and anti-aging properties.
rose (INCI: Cistus Incanus Flower/Leaf/Stem Suberin is a composition of hydroxylated
Extract), acts locally to block the key stress omega fatty acids that maintain the integrity of
receptor, CRH-R1, in skin to stave off the effects the epidermal barrier. Suberin has PPARa- and
of anxiety. It mimics the action of meditation PPARg-activating properties, making it a perfect
by blocking the stress-induced inflammatory complementary match to betulin.” Lastly,
response, delivering a novel strategy to block Selkälä highlights both ingredients are pro-
Anxi-Aging. “Clinically, IBR-Chill significantly duced by upcycling side streams from Nordic
reduced stress-induced skin inflammation and certified forests, so there is no need to cut new
improved signs of skin aging including wrin- trees or use land for food or feed.
kling, elasticity and firmness,” Krispin explains.
The ingredient is sustainably and organically References
grown in the Mediterranean desert. 1. Grabenhofer, R. (2021, Aug 17). Shiseido Skin Visualizer
measures ‘beauty circulation,’ Ultimune Serum supports
Anti-aging and it. Available at https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/
research/biology/Shiseido-Skin-Visualizer-Measures-Beauty-
Nurturing Nature Circulation-Ultimune-Serum-Supports-It-575115121.html
Sami Selkälä, CEO of Innomost Oy, sees 2. Behrens, M. (2021, Sep 2). Researchers develop
facial glycation imaging device. Available at https://
the need to look outside of ourselves for a truly
www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/research/
holistic approach to aging. “We need anti-aging techtransfer/Researchers-Develop-Facial-Glycation-Imag-
not only for our skin, but also for the well-being ing-Device-575230971.html
of our Earth,” he writes, adding that today’s 3. Kao (accessed 2021, Sep 9). Skin Surface Lipids–RNA
Monitoring Technology: Assessment of variations in indi-
consumers are interested in the origin of
vidual skin aging: By estimation of “biological age,” based
ingredients and how they impact Earth’s aging. on Skin Surface Lipids-RNA. Available at https://www.kao.
“Fossil- and palm oil-free as well as upcycling com/global/en/news/rd/2021/20210825-001/
are mega trends to combat climate change. 4. Grabenhofer, R. (2020, No 16). Kao predicts 86 changes
in skin with age, menstrual cycle and more. Available
These trends also shape the future of the anti-
at https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/research/
aging category. We think it’s possible to have methodsprocesses/Kao-Predicts-86-Changes-in-Skin-with-
anti-aging for both people and the Earth at the Age-Menstrual-Cycle-and-More_573088431.html
same time.” 5. Salmaeh, S., Tissot, N., … Breton, L., et al. (2020). Perfus-
able vascularized full-thickness skin model for topical and
Using climate-smart and ethical ingredients,
systemic applications. Proceedings of the IFSCC Congress
to Selkälä, is the way forward, along with a 2020, Yokohama pp 341-348.
holistic approach to skin care. “In anti-aging 6. L’Oréal (2020, Nov 2). L’Oréal R&I presents the first
formulations, we need to take care of outer vascularized reconstructed skin model during the Inter-
national COS... Available at https://www.loreal.com/en/
and inner factors causing aging of the skin,” press-release/research-and-innovation/l-oreal-ri-presents-
he notes. “We know we need to protect our the-first-vascularized-reconstructed-skin-model-during-the-
skin from UV and pollution but new concerns, international-cos/
like pandemic and global warming stress 7. Fink, H. (2021, Jul 13). Global facial skin care and makeup
market to reach $182,649 m by 2027. Available at
factors, are coming up. To combat these, https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/marketdata/
calming ingredients are included in future segments/Global-Facial-Skin-Care-and-Makeup-Market-to-
anti-aging [solutions].” Reach-182649-M-by-2027_574822541.html
Eventually, according to Selkälä, we go back 8. Mangum, A. (2021, Mar 28). The $600 billion market
for women in menopause is fit for disruption. Avail-
to nature to explore anti-aging phenomena and able at https://www.bloombergquint.com/pursuits/
mimic these effects. “Birch bark protects the womaness-menopause-beauty-products-line-to-be-sold-at-
tree against external attacks and from drying target-tgt-stores
out,” he explains. “In nature, the outer bark is 9. Herich, D. (2021, Sep). Part 3: The menopausal beauty
opportunity. Available at https://gcimagazine.texterity.
the protective ‘skin’ of the birch.” He adds that com/gcimagazine/september_2021/MobilePagedReplica.
tapping into the active ingredients in the outer action?pm=1&folio=48#pg55
bark, Innomost has developed Betulin (INCI: 10. Valdesolo, F. (2021, Feb 17). For skin-care
Betulin) and Suberin (INCI: Betula Alba Bark brands, it’s not anti-aging anymore. It’s
pro-aging. Available at https://www.wsj.com/articles/
Extract) for skin benefits. “If you combine these pro-aging-skin-care-wrinkles-secret-11613576450
two ingredients, you will achieve a holistic 11. Ibid Ref 9, p 23

Research | C&T
KEY POINTS
• The combined effects of aging over the
human lifespan can impact the structural
integrity and physiological functions of skin.
• The present article reviews these influences

and proposes nutricosmetic solutions to
support skin health and well aging.
The Ins and

Outs of Aging
Intrinsic/Extrinsic Factors and
A
Nuria Caturla, Ph.D.
Nutricosmetic Fixes Monteoloeder, Alicante, Spain
s the global population is grow- individual is subjected from conception to death.1

ing older, the consequences of More recently, Krutmann et al. reviewed the impact
aging have gained significant of the exposome in skin aging, proposing that
attention. Science continues to the key extrinsic variables are UV radiation, air
uncover effective approaches pollution, tobacco smoke, nutrition and cosmetic
to support healthy aging and products;2 intrinsic factors include genetics, age,
maintain quality of life. Skin aging, in particular, has gender, origin and life stages.
gained interest not only because it is the most obvious The combined effects of aging over the human
manifestation of the aging process, but also because lifespan can impact the structural integrity and
it represents a picture of overall human health. For physiological function of skin. Older skin, for
instance, dryness is the most common cause of itching instance, is more susceptible to dryness, wrinkling,
skin but itching can also reflect an internal condition; it loss of elasticity and hyperpigmentation. The
could be an early symptom of cirrhosis or hepatitis. present article reviews these influences and present
As is well-known, skin aging is a natural process nutricosmetic solutions to support skin health and
and the many influences that affect this process vary well aging.
throughout life. These include extrinsic factors such as
environmental and lifestyle, and intrinsic factors such Intrinsic Aging
as genetics and body composition. Intrinsic aging is generally considered the normal
It is generally agreed that external and internal decline of skin associated with chronological age
factors, as well as the body’s response to these factors, and the natural processes that occur over time.
comprise what is referred to as the exposome. In 2005, These inherent qualities are individual character-
American epidemiologist Christopher Wild coined this istics not determined by a person’s environment;
term to describe the totality of exposures to which an for example, through the natural aging process, the
facebook.com/CandTmagazine Cosmetics
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The Ins and Outs of Aging
Pollutants cause skin damage via oxidative

stress, inflammatory responses and barrier
disruption, activation of the AhR receptor, and
alteration of the skin microbiome.
skin becomes thinner, wrinkles form and skin with other ethnicities.8 Another study showed
becomes rougher and abnormally dry. Clinical Caucasian skin had strong barrier properties,
traits characterizing intrinsic skin aging thus followed by African, Chinese and Indian.9
include fine lines, dryness and laxity.3 Gender and life stages: Hormones and
Intrinsic factors also include those associated gender-specific factors may also play an
with gender, ethnicity and anatomical variations. important role in skin health and aging. For
Studies indicate that aging male and female skin example, sebum content, skin pigmentation
differs in type, consistency and sensitivity to and thickness are all significantly higher,
external factors. The same has also been docu- facial wrinkles are deeper, and facial sagging
mented for aging between individuals of different is more prominent in the lower eyelids of
origins. Indeed, one study by Makrantonaki, et men.10 Makrantonaki, et al., in a whole genome
al., postulated it is important to examine the screening of sun-protected skin areas, showed
aging processes taking place in both genders and an overlap of just 39 genes, highlighting how
diverse ethnic groups separately, to consider dif- the process of aging may differ between males
ferent approaches to support healthy skin aging and females.11
for each population.4 From around the age of 25, the first signs of
Genetics and origin: As noted, physical and aging begin to become apparent. In fact, from
biological phenotypes of skin aging processes this age, there is a 1% annual decrease in colla-
manifest differently between ethnic popula- gen production. There is also a steady depletion
tions.5, 6 The most apparent ethnic skin difference of collagen content and reduced skin thickness
relates to color, which is a consequence of the following menopause, with yearly reductions of
presence of melanin. The photoprotection con- 2.1% and 1.1%, respectively.12 This observation
ferred by melanin influences differences in the suggests estrogen may have beneficial effects
rate at which skin changes between various racial against skin aging; indeed, estrogen deficiency
groups. For example, Caucasians have an earlier following menopause results in atrophic skin
and greater onset of skin wrinkling and sagging changes and an acceleration of skin aging.
than other ethnic groups. Asians, in contrast, are Estrogen insufficiency also decreases skin’s
more prone to uneven skin tone, with wrinkles defenses against oxidative stress, and skin
appearing later.7 becomes thinner with less collagen and demon-
Other less evident differences also have been strates decreased elasticity, increased wrinkling,
described. One study demonstrated that Chinese increased dryness and reduced vascularity.13, 14
skin tends to exhibit notably lower pore size
and density across all age groups, compared Extrinsic Factors in
Skin Aging
The well aging/anti-aging market is set to Up to 85% of the visible signs of aging can
explode from $194.4 billion in 2020 to $422.8 be directly attributed to extrinsic causes, so skin
aging also depends heavily on environmental
billion by 2030.
exposures, lifestyle and habits. Sun and pol-
lution exposure, tobacco use, diet, exercise,
excessive stress and lack of sleep have been
Source: Global Cosmetic Industry identified15 as exacerbating factors of skin
(www.GCImagazine.com) aging. In fact, studies16-18 performed in identical
twins have illustrated how smoking, sun expo-

sure, high stress and weight gain can influence pounds (VOCs), oxides, particulate matter (PM)
aging. Noticeable evidence of extrinsically aged and ozone (O3) accelerate extrinsic aging and
skin includes uneven and irregular pigmentation, aggravate inflammatory skin disorders such
liver spots and coarse wrinkles. as atopic dermatitis, eczema, psoriasis, acne,
Photoaging: Sunlight is composed of differ- etc.25, 26 Furthermore, recent studies suggest the
ent wavelengths ranging from short, high energy effects of UVR and air pollution are not inde-
ultraviolet radiation (UVR) and visible light (VL), pendent of each other, and that facial lentigines
to long wavelength, low energy infrared radiation are the consequence of an interplay of UVR and
(IRA). These penetrate the skin at different levels. air-related traffic exhaust pollutants.27
UVR, including UVA and UVB, is the primary Epidemiological studies also reveal air pol-
extrinsic factor affecting skin physiology and it lution plays a key role in accelerating extrinsic
effects are well-known;15 long wavelength UVA1 aging. Vierkotter, et al., for example, found
rays are especially relevant because they deeply that air pollution positively correlated with the
penetrate skin and exert direct effects at the presence of coarse wrinkles and with a 20%
dermal fibroblasts level.19 increase in pigmented spots on the forehead and
Chronic exposure to sunlight affects skin cheeks.28 Hüls, et al., demonstrated the associa-
aging and mainly results from daily exposure to tion between the presence of NO2 with a higher
non-extreme, low doses that do not cause visible number of pigmented spots on cheeks.29
changes at the time of exposure but do lead to Furthermore, two German cohort studies
biological changes. UVR causes both acute stress observed that accumulated ozone exposure was
responses, such as the upregulation of extracellu- positively associated with coarse wrinkles on the
lar matrix-degrading enzymes, pro-inflammatory face.30 Research also found that those living in
mediators, ROS, etc., and chronic damage highly polluted areas have significantly worse
responses, which are caused by the accumulation skin hydration and more compromised skin
of macromolecular damage in non-proliferating barrier functioning than subjects living in cleaner
skin cells. Examples include DNA damage, suburbs, despite urban subjects making better
oxidized proteins and membrane lipids, etc., all lifestyle choices.31, 32
of which drive the skin aging process.19 Several mechanisms through which air pol-
Beyond the UV spectrum, other wavelengths lutants cause skin damage and aging have been
present in natural sunlight have been implicated proposed. The current evidence specifies four in
in skin aging.20 Near-infrared radiation (IRA) particular: increased oxidative stress, promotion
deeply penetrates human skin and reaches of a pro-inflammatory environment in skin and
beyond the dermis to the subcutis, potentially disruption of the barrier, activation of the aryl
causing wrinkle formation by collagen degra- hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) and alteration of the
dation.21, 22 The blue light portion of natural skin microbiome.33
sunlight and artificial light from digital screens, Air pollution is an unavoidable consequence
light-emitting diodes (LEDs) and fluorescent of an urban lifestyle and makes it difficult to
lighting also may affect skin aging. Extended minimize skin exposure to pollutants. As such,
exposure to high energy blue light has been consumers seek strategies to protect skin. While
shown to increase ROS formation, DNA damage, topical products are eligible candidates, they
cell and tissue death, skin barrier damage, skin are not always sufficient because they only
pigmentation and photoaging.23, 24 Consumer protect the outermost layers of skin—and it is
concerns about blue light and its potentially known that internal structures of skin can also
damaging effects in skin have grown as research be affected. More specifically, ultrafine particles
on this topic expands; interest also has expanded
during the last year with increased exposure
to smartphones and digital devices during the
COVID-19 pandemic.
Pollution: Air pollution is a major problem
in recent decades, with a serious toxicological
impact on human health. Experts have found
that aside from UVR, ongoing daily exposure
to contaminants such as polycyclic aromatic
hydrocarbons (PAHs), volatile organic com-

(UFP) and PAHs may accumulate in the hypoder- the dynamics of telomeres, which significantly
mis, dermis and bottom of the hair follicle, which contributes to the skin aging process.46
are highly vascularized, and can even reach the Stress and proper sleep: Chronic stress as
deep epidermis.34 Moreover, certain pollutants well as chronic lack of sleep have biological
can penetrate the skin via indirect systemic dis- repercussions that impact skin, notably acceler-
tribution of inhaled or ingested pollution through ating aging. Long-term sleep deprivation affects
the blood.35, 36 wound healing, collagen growth, skin hydration
The damage exerted is therefore not only and skin texture.47, 48 Higher levels of inflamma-
superficial, but also affects all the layers of the tion also have been observed in stressed and
skin. It is for these reasons that the shielding sleep-deprived patients, causing outbreaks of
efficacy of skin care products might better be acne, eczema, psoriasis and skin allergies.48
complemented with a dietary approach for a In one clinical trial, significant differences
more holistic strategy. were observed between good and poor qual-
Climate: Seasonal variations also have a ity sleepers. Those who had insufficient sleep
major impact on skin appearance and texture. (< 5 hr) showed increased signs of intrinsic skin
One study, for example, showed that pigmenta- aging including fine lines, uneven pigmentation,
tion and wrinkles were reduced in winter vs. skin slackening and reduced elasticity, with an
summer; other features, such as skin barrier average score doubling that of good sleepers.
and moisture, declined.37 Another study showed Additionally, poor quality sleepers showed
that seasons induce changes in skin hydration, slower recovery after skin barrier disruption
sebum content, scaliness, brightness and elastic- from environmental stressors such as the sun’s
ity.38 For instance, dry environmental conditions rays and everyday pollution.49
have been shown to increase the permeability Although there is some clinical evidence
of the epidermis, resulting in abnormal barrier showing stress and lack of sleep affect skin
function and decreasing skin hydration, which integrity and accelerate skin aging, the under-
can also adversely influence the incidence and/ lying mechanisms have not yet been clearly
or severity of skin disorders such as contact and defined. Some researchers attribute this to
atopic dermatitis.39 Also, both cold temperatures the release of excess cortisol triggered by
and dry conditions have been linked to a higher sleep debt and stress.50 Indeed, high levels of
rate of skin irritation,40 with lower water content cortisol have been proven to cause skin thin-
in the stratum corneum accentuating wrinkles ning and to exacerbate skin conditions such
related to skin dryness.41 as eczema, acne and rosacea, among others.
Furthermore, cortisol activates tyrosinase in
Lifestyle Habits and melanocytes, resulting in the augmentation of
Skin Aging UV-induced pigmentation.51
Nutrition and diet: Finally, and equally
Cigarette smoking: The relationship between
important, are considerations for nutrition and
cigarette smoking and skin aging is supported by
diet—outlined next in greater depth. Interven-
epidemiological studies and in vitro and in vivo
tion studies indicate it is possible to delay
mechanistic evidence. Smoker’s skin is character-
aging and improve skin’s condition through the
ized by prominent facial wrinkling particularly
diet.52 The daily intake of antioxidants from
around the mouth and upper lip and eyes.42 In
fruits and vegetables or supplements scavenges
several studies, smoking has been associated
reactive oxygen species, thereby preventing
with increased wrinkles, tissue laxity, up to 40%
skin damage and aging. On the other hand,
thinner skin and pigmentary changes;43 one of
excess sugar intake accelerates aging processes
these studies estimated that 10 years of smoking
through the production of advanced glycation
corresponded to appearing roughly three years
end products, which inhibit the proper repair of
older than one's chronological age.44
collagen fibers.53
Smoking accelerates the aging process in
the skin via extracellular matrix breakdown
following the induction of MMP-1 expression,
Nutricosmetics to Support
reducing blood flow and oxygen and increasing and Protect Skin Health
cellular oxidation.45 Smoking also increases Several clinical trials have demonstrated
oxidative DNA modifications and interferes with that supplementation with natural compounds

In a whole genome screening of sun-
protected skin areas, an overlap of just
39 genes highlights how aging may differ
between males and females.
such as vitamins, minerals, plant polyphenols, However, delivery of vitamin C into the
carotenoids, collagen peptides, etc., may have skin via topical application remains challeng-
anti-aging and photoprotective effects.54, 55 ing because as a water-soluble and charged
Some of the most-studied micronutrients with molecule, is repelled by the physical barrier of
benefits for skin health, both through oral and the terminally differentiated epidermal cells. A
topical applications, are essential vitamins and great deal of effort has been put into the devel-
antioxidants; several vitamins, minerals and opment of ascorbic acid derivatives to ensure
phytonutrients are outlined here. stabilization of the molecule from oxidation
Vitamins: Vitamin C is broadly used as and also overcome the significant challenge of
a supplement and has multiple benefits for skin penetration. Thus, the efficacy of topical
immune health; it also helps to slow oxidative vitamin C is dependent on the formulation of
damage. In skin, vitamin C exerts different bio- the cream or serum used on the skin.62
logic roles, including participation in collagen Vitamin E (tocopherol), another essential
synthesis, the regeneration process and wound vitamin with specific skin benefits, acts an anti-
repair.56 In one epidemiological study, among oxidant and protects cellular membranes from
4,025 women (40-74 yrs), a lower intake of lipid peroxidation by free radicals. In addition,
vitamin C was significantly associated with the it can work synergistically with vitamin C in
prevalence of a wrinkled appearance and senile terms of photoprotection.63, 64 In one double-
dryness, independent of factors known to affect blind, placebo-controlled study of 20 subjects,
skin aging.57 Additionally, vitamin C can provide 10 received 2 g of vitamin C and 1000 IU of
photoprotection and reduce skin pigmentation vitamin E per day while the other 10 received
through oral or topical application.58-61 the placebo. This revealed that combined,

vitamins C and E reduced the sunburn reaction, among others. Phenolics can benefit skin health
UV-induced skin damage and cutaneous blood through their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory
flow; these increased in the placebo group. effects mainly by inhibiting collagen degrada-
Several B-complex vitamins may also tion, increasing collagen synthesis and inhibiting
improve skin health.65 For instance, vitamin B3 inflammation, which involves the regulation of
(nicotinamide) is a precursor for nicotinamide matrix metalloproteinases, cytokines and signal-
adenine dinucleotide, which is the substrate for ing pathways, e.g., Nrf2, NF-kB, MAPK, AhR
poly adenosine diphosphate ribose polymerase etc.;75 and by acting as prebiotics to influence the
(PARP). PARP is a nuclear enzyme that is acti- skin microbiome.76
vated in response to oxidative DNA damage to Many natural plant-derived polyphenols such
promote DNA repair.66 Also, animal and human as EGCG, resveratrol, curcumin, genestin and
studies have shown that oral niacin prevents others are also natural inhibitors of mTORC1
UV-induced immunosuppression.67, 68 (mammalian target of rapamycin complex).77
Minerals: Healthy skin is also dependent on mTORC1 is the central hub, regulating protein
a balanced supply of minerals including zinc, and lipid synthesis, cell growth and prolifera-
copper and selenium. These minerals can act as tion, and the process of autophagy, and is thus
enzymatic cofactors for glutathione peroxidases intimately involved in central regulatory events
and superoxide dismutase (SOD) and can thus associated with cell survival and cell aging.
support the elimination of free radicals and Green tea polyphenols such as (-)-epigallocat-
help to prevent oxidative stress.69 echin-3-gallate (EGCG) have proven to directly
Zinc plays an important role in skin health. inhibit the expression of metalloproteinases
It is needed for building keratin and for the MMP-2, MMP-9 and MMP-12,78 and to act as a
formation of collagen. Mild zinc deficiency also potent inhibitor of leucocyte elastase.79 However,
rapidly leads to roughened skin and impaired clinical studies have not been conclusive regard-
wound healing.70 Moreover, zinc is frequently ing their skin anti-aging properties.80
used in the treatment and management of acne Resveratrol, a natural stilbene abundant
as it is known to reduce keratinocyte activity, in the skin of grapes, has been proven both in
reduce inflammatory response to bacteria and vitro and in vivo to regulate different cutaneous
improve immunity. One study of 332 acne functions including skin aging, melanogenesis
patients compared oral zinc supplementation and antimicrobial defense.81 Clinical trials have
(30 mg of elemental zinc) with oral mino- also demonstrated the anti-aging properties
cycline (100 mg) for the treatment of acne. of resveratrol. A study of 50 humans showed
After 12 weeks, the pimple count in the zinc that the consumption of a food supplement
group was reduced by 49.8% compared with containing pomegranate and grape extracts
a 66.6% reduction in the minocycline group; with 8 mg of resveratrol for 60 days markedly
inflammation also decreased by 31.2% for the improved multiple aging-associated parameters.
zinc group.71 The supplement increased stratum corneum
Like zinc, copper is antioxidant and is hydration and skin elasticity, and decreased skin
known to stimulate the maturation of collagen. roughness, wrinkle depth and the intensity of
It is therefore critical for improving skin elastic- pigmented solar lentigines.82
ity and thickness.72 Selenium is yet another Standardized extracts of French maritime
mineral that protects the skin from UV irradia- pine bark, rich in flavonoids, also have demon-
tion-induced oxidative stress by stimulating the strated skin health and anti-aging properties.
activities of selenium-dependent antioxidant Pine bark extract intake (75 mg) for 12 weeks
enzymes present in the plasma membrane significantly increased the mRNA expression
of epidermal keratinocytes.73 Selenium also of hyaluronic acid synthase (HAS-1) and gene
has been considered for the treatment of expression involved in collagen de novo synthe-
psoriasis, which shows decreased glutathione sis, which was reflected in an increase in skin
peroxidase levels.74 elasticity and skin hydration.83 In another study,
Phytonutrients: Plant foods contain thou- supplementation with either 100 mg for 12 weeks
sands of natural chemicals, some of which are or 40 mg for 24 weeks significant decreased the
phenolic compounds. Examples include green clinical grading of skin photoaging scores for
tea polyphenols, grape seed proanthocyanidins, attributes such as age spot pigmentation.84
resveratrol, silymarin, genistein and curcumin, Yet another study shows how a polyphenolic-

enriched rosemary and grapefruit extract blenda shown to effectively attenuate cellular oxidative
synergistically protected the skin against dam- stress and inflammation induced by air pollut-
age induced by UV radiation.85 The survival of ants. One recent study showed the daily intake
HaCaT cells after UVB was higher in treatments of 250 mg of a polyphenolic-enriched blend of
using the combination of extracts than the Rosmarinus officinalis, Olea europaea, Lippia
individual extracts. In addition, the combined citriodora and Sophora japonicab reduced oxidative
extracts decreased UVB-induced intracellular stress and improved skin parameters related to
radical oxygen species (ROS) and prevented aging in Caucasian and Asian subjects exposed to
DNA damage.86 air pollution.87
Clinical trials of the same blend demon- More specifically, a double-blind, randomized,
strated similar effects. Subjects treated with parallel group study was carried out in 100 out-
100 mg of the blend showed a decrease in both door workers living in a polluted urban European
UVB- and UVA-induced skin alterations and environment. During the 12 weeks of the study, the
after 8 weeks, the MED increased by ~30% total antioxidant capacity, oxidative damage, mois-
in the treatment group. Improvements were turization, transepidermal water loss, radiance and
noted in skin oxidation, inflammatory response color characteristics, elasticity, sebum content and
and recovery after sun overexposure, and the roughness in skin were measured. Results showed
blend also reduced wrinkle depth by 15% and statistically significant improvements in all param-
improved skin elasticity by 9%.85 eters in both Caucasian and Asian individuals. This
Extracts and phenolic compounds derived was apparently the first clinical study of its kind to
from plants such as blueberry, green tea, grape, explore the efficacy of a nutraceutical to prevent
pomegranate and marine algae also have been the harmful effects of air pollutants in skin.87
a
nutroxsun, Monteoloeder b
zeropollution, Monteoloeder

In addition to phenolics, carotenoids, the 11. Makrantonaki, E., Brink, T.C., Zampeli, V., et al. (2012, Nov
3). Identification of biomarkers of human skin aging in both
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for their skin photoprotection and anti-aging pone.0050393
properties.88-90 In skin, they accumulate mostly 12. Brincat, M., Kabalan, S., Studd, J.W., Moniz, C.F., de Trafford,
J, and Montgomery, J. (1987). A study of the decrease of
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derm.23872
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Eur Acad Dermatology Venereol 30(2) 223-249; doi:10.1111/ doi.org/10.1093/ajcn/86.4.1225
jdv.13301 58. McArdle, F., Rhodes, L.E., Parslew, R., Jack, C.I.,
41. Egawa, M., Oguri, M., Kuwahara, T. and Takahashi, M. (2002). Friedmann, P.S. and Jackson, M.J. (2002). UVR-induced
Effect of exposure of human skin to a dry environment. Ski Res oxidative stress in human skin in vivo: Effects of oral vitamin
Technol 8 (4) 212-218; doi:10.1034/j.1600-0846.2002.00351.x C supplementation. Free Radic Biol Med 33 1355-1362;
42. Aizen, E. and Gilhar, A. (2001). Smoking effect on skin wrinkling doi: 10.1016/S0891-5849(02)01042-0
in the aged population. Int J Dermatol 40 431e3. 59. Sies, H. and Stahl, W. (2004). Nutritional protection against
43. Koh, J.S., Kang, H., Choi, S.W. and Kim, H.O. (2002). skin damage from sunlight. Annu Rev Nutr 24 173-200; doi:
Cigarette smoking associated with premature facial wrinkling: 10.1146/annurev.nutr.24.012003.132320.
Image analysis of facial skin replicas. Int J Dermatol 41 21e7.

60. Sanadi, R.M. and Deshmukh, R.S. (2020). The effect of vitamin 78. Demeule, M., Brossard, M., Pagé, M., Gingras, D. and
C on melanin pigmentation—A systematic review. J Oral Maxil- Béliveau, R. (2000). Matrix metalloproteinase inhibition by
lofac Pathol 24(2) 374-382; doi:10.4103/jomfp.JOMFP_207_20 green tea catechins. Biochim Biophys Acta 1478 51-60; doi:
61. Kawashima, S., Funakoshi, T., Sato, Y., et al. (2018). Protective 10.1016/S0167-4838(00)00009-1
effect of pre- and post-vitamin C treatments on UVB-irradi- 79. Sartor, L., Pezzato, E. and Garbisa, S. (2002 Jan). (-)
ation-induced skin damage. Sci Rep 8 16199; https://doi. Epigallocatechin-3-gallate inhibits leukocyte elastase: Potential
org/10.1038/s41598-018-34530-4 of the phyto-factor in hindering inflammation, emphysema and
62. Pullar, J.M., Carr, A.C. and Vissers, M.C.M. (2017, Aug 12). invasion. J Leukoc Biol 71 73-9.
The roles of vitamin C in skin health. Nutrients 9(8) 866; doi: 80. Hiu, A.E., Chan, J.L., Kern, D.G., Kohler, S., Rehmus, W.E. and
10.3390/nu9080866; PMID: 28805671; PMCID: PMC5579659. Kimball, A.B. (2005 Jul). Double-blinded, placebo-controlled
63. Eberlein-Konig, B., Placzek, M. and Przybilla, B. (1998). Protec- trial of green tea extracts in the clinical and histologic appear-
tive effect against sunburn of combined systemic ascorbic ance of photoaging skin. Dermatol Surg 31(7 part 2) 855-60;
acid (vitamin C) and d-alpha-tocopherol (vitamin E). J Am Acad discussion 860; doi: 10.1111/j.1524-4725.2005.31731
Dermatol 38 45-48 17. 81. Wen, S., Zhang, J., Yang, B., Elias, P.M. and Man, M.Q. (2020,
64. Fuchs, J. and Kern, H. (1998). Modulation of UV-light-induced Apr 14). Role of resveratrol in regulating cutaneous func-
skin inflammation by D-alpha-tocopherol and L-ascorbic acid: tions. Evid Based Complement Alternat Med 2020:2416837;
A clinical study using solar simulated radiation. Free Radic Biol doi:10.1155/2020/2416837
Med 25 1006-1012. 82. Buonocore, D., Lazzeretti, A., Tocabens, P., et al. (2012).
65. Rembe, J.D., Fromm-Dornieden, C. and Stuermer, E.K. (2018 Resveratrol-procyanidin blend: Nutraceutical and anti-aging
May). Effects of vitamin B complex and vitamin C on human efficacy evaluated in a placebo-controlled, double-blind study.
skin cells: Is the perceived effect measurable? Adv Skin Wound Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol 5 159-165; doi:10.2147/CCID.
Care 31(5) 225-233; doi: 10.1097/01.ASW.0000531351. S36102
85866.d9 83. Marini, A., Grether-Beck, S., ... Krutmann, J., et al. (2012).
66. Gero, D. and Szabo, C. Poly(ADP-ribose) polymerase: A new Pycnogenol effects on skin elasticity and hydration coincide
therapeutic target? Curr Opin Anaesthesiol 21(2) 111-121 75. with increased gene expressions of collagen type I and
67. Gensler, H.L., Williams, T., Huang, A.C. and Jacobson, E.L. hyaluronic acid synthase in women. Skin Pharmacol Physiol
(1999). Oral niacin prevents photocarcinogenesis and photoim- 25 86-92; doi: 10.1159/000335261
munosuppression in mice. Nutr Cancer 34(1) 36-41. 84. Furumura, M., Sato, N., Kusaba, N., Takagaki K. and
68. Yiasemides, E., Sivapirabu, G., Halliday, G.M., Park, J. and Nakayama, J. (2012). Oral administration of French maritime
Damian, D.L. (2009). Oral nicotinamide protects against pine bark extract (Flavangenol) improves clinical symptoms
ultraviolet radiation induced immunosuppression in humans. in photoaged facial skin. Clin Interv Aging 7 275-286; doi:
Carcinogenesis 30(1) 101-105. 10.2147/CIA.S33165
69. Vollmer, D., West, V. and Lephart. E. (2018). Enhancing skin 85. Nobile, V., Michelotti, A., Cestone, E., Caturla, N., Castillo, J.,
health: By oral administration of natural compounds and miner- Benavente-García, O., et al. (2016). Skin photoprotec-tive and
als with implications to the dermal microbiome. Int J Mol Sci anti-aging effects of a combination of rosemary (Rosmarinus
19(10) 3059; doi:10.3390/ijms19103059 officinalis) and grapefruit (Citrus paradisi) polyphenols. Food
Nutr Res 60 31871; doi: 10.3402/fnr.v60.31871
70. Lansdown, A.B., Mirastschijski, U., Stubbs, N., Scanlon, E. and
Agren, M.S. (2007). Zinc in wound healing: Theoretical, experi- 86. Pérez-Sánchez, A., Barrajón-Catalán, E., Caturla, N., Castillo,
mental and clinical aspects. Wound Repair Regen 15 2-16. J., Benavente-García, O., Alcaraz, M. and Micol, V. (2014).
Protective effects of citrus and rosemary extracts on UV-
71. Dreno, B., Moyse, D., Alirezai, M., et al. (2001). Acne research induced damage in skin cell model and human volunteers.
and study group. Multicenter randomized comparative double- J Photochem and Photobiol B. 136 12-18; https://doi.
blind controlled clinical trial of the safety and efficacy of zinc org/10.1016/j.jphotobiol.2014.04.007
gluconate versus minocycline hydrochloride in the treatment of
inflammatory Acne vulgaris. Dermatology 203(2) 135-40; doi: 87. Nobile, V., Schiano, I., Peral, A., Giardina, S., Spartà, E. and
10.1159/000051728 Caturla, N. (2021, Mar). Antioxidant and reduced skin-aging
effects of a polyphenol enriched dietary supplement in
72. Pickart, L. (2008). The human tri-peptide GHK and tissue response to air pollution: A randomized, double-blind, placebo-
remodeling. J Biomater Sci Polym Ed 19(8) 969-88; doi: controlled study. Food & Nutrition Res 65 5619; doi:10.29219/
10.1163/156856208784909435 fnr.v65.5619
73. Rafferty, T.S., McKenzie, R.C., Hunter, J.A., Howie, A.F., Arthur, 88. Balić, A. and Mokos, M. (2019, Jul 31). Do we utilize our
J.R., Nicol, F. and Beckett, G.J. (1998). Differential expression of knowledge of the skin protective effects of carotenoids
selenoproteins by human skin cells and protection by selenium enough? Antioxidants 8(8) 259; doi: 10.3390/antiox8080259;
from UVB-radiation-induced cell death. Biochem J 332 (part 1) PMID: 31370257; PMCID: PMC6719967.
231-236.
89. Stahl, W. and Sies, H. (2002, Sep-Oct). Carotenoids and
74. Naziroglu, M., Yildiz, K., Tamturk, B., Erturan, I. and Flores-Arce, protection against solar UV radiation. Skin Pharmacol Appl
M. (2012). Selenium and psoriasis. Biol Trace Elem Res 150 Skin Physiol 15(5) 291-6; doi: 10.1159/000064532; PMID:
3-9; doi: 10.1007/s12011-012-9479-5 12239422.
75. Davinelli, S., Bertoglio, J.C., Polimeni, A. and Scapagnini, G. 90. Grether-Beck, S., Marini, A., Jaenicke, T., Stahl, W. and
(2018). Cytoprotective polyphenols against chronological skin Krutmann, J. (2017 May). Molecular evidence that oral supple-
aging and cutaneous photodamage. Curr Pharm De 24(2) mentation with lycopene or lutein protects human skin against
99-105. ultraviolet radiation: Results from a double-blinded, placebo-
76. Ibid Ref 69 controlled, crossover study. Br J Dermatol 176(5) 1231-1240;
77. Melnik, B. (2012). Dietary intervention in acne: Attenuation doi: 10.1111/bjd.15080; epub (2017 Mar) PMID: 27662341.
of increased mTORC1 signaling promoted by Western diet. 91. Ross, A.C., Caballero, B., Cousins, R.J., Tucker, K.L. and
Dermatoendocrinol 4 20-32; doi: 10.4161/derm.19828 Ziegler, T.R. (2012). Modern Nutrition in Health and Disease,
11th edn. Wolters Kluwer Health/Lippincott Williams & Wilkins.
Philadelphia pp 1-1616.

Research | C&T
KEY POINTS
• With aging, genes attributed to a
youthful appearance become
incorrectly programmed and are
epigenetically switched off,
accelerating skin aging.
• The present work examines the

potential of a TCM-inspired
and water-based Ganoderma
lucidum (Reishi mushroom)
extract to reactivate the skin's
rejuvenation program by
resetting the epigenetic clock.

CT2110_Research_Hettwer_fcx.indd 32 9/15/21 1:45 PM

Peer-reviewed
Skin Reset: TCM-inspired Reishi Mushroom

to Reprogram Signs of Aging
S
Stefan Hettwer, Ph.D., Emina Besic Gyenge, Ph.D.,
Brigit Suter and Barbara Obermayer
Rahn AG, Zürich
kin is a complex tissue with different layers of cells

and extracellular structures. With age, the epider-
mis and dermis become thinner and can no longer
perform the same functions as they did when the
skin was younger. Each person’s lifestyle has a
significant influence on the youthful appearance of facebook.com/CandTmagazine
skin such as exercise, a healthy diet, avoiding the sun or applying sunscreen
regularly—all of these factors can significantly slow the signs of aging.1 Stress
Cosmetics & Toiletries
and intrinsic skin aging can counteract the effects of a healthy lifestyle.2
All of these factors influence, at least indirectly, the skin's genetic program-
ming in cells, which ensures the correct genes are read to ensure optimal skin @cosmeticsandtoiletries
functioning and resistance. This programming also switches off genes that are
not needed.3 As such, although all cells of the body are equipped with identi-
cal genetic information, the different tissues form their specialized
functions. They do this either during the developmental phase or in
response to external influences.
The genetic program is primarily controlled by epigenetic pro-
cesses. In contrast to pure genetic information, epigenetics generally
cannot be inherited or they can only be inherited to a very limited
extent. Epigenetics is therefore an individual reading or muting of
genes, which is highly regulated. This is controlled, for example,
by the targeted activation of genes. Various control mechanisms
are available to cells for this purpose, such as histones. Histones
are proteins that package the DNA in chromosomes
and control whether

Skin Reset
A noticeable lifting effect by the test extract was

shown in Caucasian and Asian skin, attributed to
improved skin elasticity.
DNA is released. Methylation patterns at the In vitro Materials and

promoters of genes define whether or not the RNA
polymerase can create mRNA for later translation
Methods
into protein.4 The rule of thumb, with appropriate Test active: The active ingredient tested
exceptions, is: methylation around the promoter in the following studies, based on Ganoderma
of a gene usually leads to the silencing of the gene, lucidum extracta, was produced by extracting the
whereas an unmodified promoter allows the read- mushroom grown in a laboratory using water,
ing of a gene. similarly to how it is produced in TCM, using it as
Epigenetics plays an important role in the a “concentrated tea.”
aging process of the skin. Cell functions are no Effects of hypermethylation and test
longer carried out properly if the DNA methylation extract in 3D skin model: The effects of
pattern no longer corresponds to that of young hypermethylation and the Ganoderma lucidum
skin. The DNA of aging skin cells is generally test extract’s ability to mitigate these effects were
under-methylated, compared with the DNA of studied in a 3D skin model. Epidermal progeni-
younger cells.5 This occurs predominantly in tor cells were isolated from a female donor of 36
regions that are important to structural integrity years and taken into a culture. After expansion,
and in conjunction with chromatin (histones). the cells were treated for 2 days with 25 µM
However, the activity of important genes can also S-adenosyl methionine and 50 µM AZT (3'-azido-
be blocked by unwanted methylation during the 3'deoxythymidine) with and without the test
aging process by hypermethylation of the pro- extract at 0.1%.
moter regions.5, 6 After seeding for reconstruction to form a
In relation, this paper investigates the effects 3D epidermis, the epidermis was built up for
of hypermethylation on epidermal phenotypes. another 9 days under the previously mentioned
It also examines how a Ganoderma lucidum conditions. The formation of the stratum cor-
extract can modulate these effects. Ganoderma neum was induced with an airlift. The integrity
lucidum is the most prominent medicinal herb of the stratum spinosum and stratum corneum
used in Asia. Known as Ling Zhi or Reishi, it has were examined by histological sections using
been used for thousands of years in Traditional H&E staining, and barrier damage was quanti-
Chinese Medicine (TCM) to restore inner balance. fied by measuring the detached areas of the
Its epigenetic efficacy has been described and stratum corneum from the stratum spinosum.
attributed to the presence of specific beta-glucans.7 The concentration of inflammatory markers was
Here, a water-based extract of this herb is tested determined by ELISA assay.
in vitro and in vivo to determine its influence on
epigenetic processes of the skin in the direction In vivo Materials and
of youthfulness. Methods
To investigate the effects of the Ganoderma
lucidum extract in vivo, 20 Caucasian women
The market size of TCM manufacturing was ages 35-55 and 5 Asian women ages 36-47 were
estimated at 75.3 billion yuan (approx. US enrolled in a double-blind, placebo-controlled
$11.67 billion) in China in 2021. study. The assessment was conducted in a half-
face approach, wherein each subject applied the
placebo to the right side of their face and a test
Source: Statista a
Liftonin-QI (INCI: Propanediol (and) Water (Aqua) (and)
Ganoderma Lucidum (Mushroom) Stem Extract (and)
Citric Acid), Rahn AG

serum with 3% Ganoderma lucidum extract to hypermethylation was induced in precursor
the left side of their face once daily for three keratinocytes using the methyl group substrate
months. Measurements were taken on days 14, S-adenosyl methionine (SAM) in combination
28 and 84. Lifting effects were documented and with 3'-azido-3'deoxythymidine (AZT).8, 9 Results
quantified by imagingb. Epidermal thickness showed that hypermethylation prevented a
was assessed by confocal microscopy; dermis proper epidermal skin model from developing
density by 20 MHz ultrasound measurements; from the keratinocytes (see Figure 1a).
1a
and skin elasticity by cutometry. The stratum spinosum, the living cell layer of
the epidermis, was barely formed and the cells
In vitro Results were severely flattened. A uniform cell network
could not be observed. The stratum corneum
As noted, the effects of epigenetic stress were
and skin barrier also only marginally developed,
determined using a 3D skin model in which
showing large gaps to the stratum spinosum.
b
VECTRA XT 3D Imaging System, Canfield Scientific Quantification revealed 75% of the skin barrier
a) b)
Figure 1. Effects of methylation with and without extract (a) and skin barrier damage
quantification (b)
a) b) c)
Figure 2. Effects of Ganoderma lucidum extract on IL-1 alpha (a) IL-1 beta (b) and IL-8 (c) expression

Skin Reset
was damaged by methylation (see Figure 1b). 1b kins (IL-1alpha, IL1-beta, IL8) also showed that
Application of the Ganoderma lucidum test hypermethylation led to a strong inflammatory
extract at 0.1% during hypermethylation stress response in the tissue. This was significantly
greatly reduced these phenotypes. The model suppressed with the Ganoderma lucidum extract,
showed an intact living cell layer and a strong in comparison with the control (see Figure 2).
2
skin barrier. Additionally, the quantified damage
caused by hypermethylation was significantly In vivo Results
reduced. See Figures 1a and 1b 1b, respectively. As stated, lifting effects in vivo were measured
The quantification of inflammatory interleu- using an imaging systemb. After treatment with
a) b)
Figure 3. Lifting effects after 14 and 28 days of test serum application in Caucasian (a) and Asian (b)
skin; the length and color of the arrows indicate the strength of the lifting effect
a) b)
Figure 4. Quantification of lifting effects in: the entire study panel (n = 25) (a) and Asian study panel
(n = 5) (b); in both groups, the placebo formulation had no lifting effect

Ganoderma lucidum has been used in TCM
to restore inner balance. Its efficacy has
attributed to specific beta-glucans.
placebo and test extract, the distance that points ing lifting effect was observed over the entire
identified on the initial image moved when duration of the study, with significant results
compared with their location at days 14, 28 over the initial condition and placebo (see
and 84 was determined and visualized using Figure 4).
4
vector graphics (see Figure 3).
3 Here, the most Since the observed lifting effects presumably
significant changes appear at the red end of the were due to improved skin elasticity, cutometric
spectrum and the least, at the dark blue and measurements also were taken. These confirmed
purple end. a significant improvement in elasticity even after
After 14 days, a significant lifting effect was 14 days (see Figure 5).
5 This effect continued
observed with the Ganoderma lucidum extract to increase over the course of the study and
in Caucasian test subjects (see Figure 3a).
3a was significant when compared with the initial
These effects were most evident in the areas of condition and placebo.
the facial contour and upper eyelids. In Asian The density of the dermis and the amount
subjects (see Figure 3b),
3b the lifting effect was of collagen, which accounts for up to 80% of
significant after 28 days, with the strongest the proteins in the dermis, were also examined.
expression in the lower corners of the mouth. For this purpose, as noted, an analysis was
In both the overall group of subjects and in the carried out using 20 MHz sonography. The
smaller Asian subgroup, a continuously increas- images obtained on day 0 (see Figure 6) 6 show

Skin Reset
a typical thinning of the facial

dermis by photoaging, which is
recognizable by a pronounced
subepidermal low echogenic
band (SLEB). Outlined in red,
this band gradually improved
over the course of treatment, as
shown by reduced areas of black
and increased areas of green
within the SLEB.
Quantification showed a
reduction in this band and a
significant increase in collagen
after only 14 days, and both
effects were more significantly
pronounced after three months—
i.e., a 30% increase in dermis
Figure 5. Elasticity measurements of skin during treatment density, compared with baseline
relative to the initial condition measurements (data not shown).
The identical placebo formula-
Figure 6. Ultrasonography of serum-treated skin over the course of the study
tion without Ganoderma lucidum

extract had no effect.
The ultrasonographic images
also indicated the epidermis had
undergone a change, as shown by
the yellow band across the top of
Figure 6. Confocal microscopy addi-
Figure 6
tionally showed a significant ~5%
increase in epidermal thickness with
the use of the test extract compared
with the placebo (see Figure 7).
7
Discussion
The results of the in vivo study
indicated that the application of
the formulation with Ganoderma
Figure 7. Effects of Ganoderma lucidum extract on lucidum extract had positive effects
epidermal density on the dermis and epidermis,
and therefore could slow signs of

Ganoderma lucidum has been utilized in TCM and was found in vitro and in vivo to provide topical anti-aging capabilities.
premature skin aging. The significant increase tive stress triggered by UV rays, unfavorable
in elasticity and dermal density also indicated lifestyle, stress and actual aging can reduce the
a marked neogenesis of elastin and collagen by fitness of fibroblasts by causing the methylome
rejuvenated fibroblasts. to have the "wrong" pattern.
Previous work has found that fibroblasts age This is where an active ingredient such as
faster under elevated oxygen partial pressure, the Ganoderma lucidum extract described could
as is present in cell cultures, than fibroblasts help by epigenetically preventing hypermeth-
cultured under hypoxia conditions.10 These ylation on the DNA. The positive effects on the
researchers also found that DNA-methylating dermis shown in the present study could be
enzymes are downregulated at low oxygen explained in this way. In the in vitro experiment,
concentrations. Thus, the DNA-methylation age this mechanism was investigated, although
of cells is younger under these conditions. For with keratinocytes, where it was shown that
the skin, this can mean that oxidative stress preventing hypermethylation of the DNA had
promotes DNA methylation. a positive influence on the development of the
Indeed, oxidative stress affects the methy- epidermis and could significantly delay and an
lome, as does the aging process.11 Although aged skin state.
total methylation on DNA decreases with age, In line with this are the results of the in vivo
this tends to be in untranscribed regions, which study, which showed increases in the thickness
disrupts the structural integrity of the DNA. of the epidermis. The in vitro experiment also
On the other hand, the methylation density at showed that a "wrong" methylation pattern of
the so-called CpG islands in the promoters of DNA can lead to inflammatory reactions. This
genes apparently increases, causing them to be suggests that inflamm'aging can also be mod-
switched off.12 Correspondingly, increased oxida- eled by epigenetic effects.

Skin Reset
In an organ as complex as the skin, it is difficult to prove in

experiments which property of a cosmetic active is causal for an
improvement in skin's appearance. As such, the Ganoderma lucidum
fungus was chosen not only based on reports of epigenetic efficacy,
due to the presence of specific beta-glucans,7 but also due to its healing
properties.
As stated, Ganoderma lucidum has been used for thousands of years,
especially in TCM, but was also used for healing in the European Mid-
dle Ages. Reported healing activities range from immune-regulating,
epigenetic and anti-inflammatory effects, to improvements in cardio-
vascular complaints and even life extension.13 The epigenetic regulation
of DNA methylation can therefore only be part of the extract's holistic
mode of action.
Conclusion
The Ganoderma lucidum extract studied here demonstrates skin-
lifting properties and increases the collagen density in the dermis. In
addition, it was shown to increase epidermal thickness. These effects
were proven in vitro and in vivo, outperforming the placebo. As such,
the TCM-inspired active is proposed for anti-aging cosmetic products
based on its ability to epigenetically reprogram cells toward their
younger state.
References
1. Zhang, Y. and Kutateladze, T.G. (2018). Diet and the epigenome. Nat Commun 9 3375.
2. Gronniger, E., et al. (2010). Aging and chronic sun exposure cause distinct epigenetic
changes in human skin. PLoS Genet 6.
3. Veres, D.A., Wilkins, L., Coble, D.W. and Lyon, S.B. (1989). DNA methylation and differentia-
tion of human keratinocytes. J Invest Dermatol 93 687-690.
4. Gayon, J. (2016). From Mendel to epigenetics: History of genetics. C R Biol 339 225-230.
5. Ciccarone, F., Tagliatesta, S., Caiafa, P. and Zampieri, M. (2018). DNA methylation dynamics
in aging: how far are we from understanding the mechanisms? Mech Ageing Dev 174 3-17.
6. Rhodes, K, et al. (1994).. DNA methylation represses the murine alpha 1(I) collagen pro-
moter by an indirect mechanism. MoleCell Bio 14 5950-5960.
7. Bao, X., Liu, C., Fang, J. and Li, X. (2001). Structural and immunological studies of a major
polysaccharide from spores of Ganoderma lucidum (Fr.) Karst. Carbohydr Res 332 67-74.
8. Koczor C.A., et al. (2015). AZT-induced mitochondrial toxicity: an epigenetic paradigm
for dysregulation of gene expression through mitochondrial oxidative stress. Physiological
Genomics 47 447-454.
9. Nyce, J. (1989). Drug-induced DNA hypermethylation and drug resistance in human tumors.
Cancer Res 49 5829-5836.
10. Matsuyama, M., WuWong, D.J., Horvath, S. and Matsuyama, S. (2019). Epigenetic clock
analysis of human fibroblasts in vitro: effects of hypoxia, donor age, and expression of
hTERT and SV40 largeT. Aging 11 3012-3022.
11. Guillaumet-Adkins, A., (2017).. Epigenetics and oxidative stress in aging. Oxidative Medicine
and Cellular Longevity 2017.9175806.
12. Johnson, A.A.,et al. (2012).. The role of DNA methylation in aging, rejuvenation, and age-
related disease. Rejuvenation Research 15 483-494.
13. Cör, D., Knez, Ž. and Knez Hrnčič, M. (2018). Antitumour, antimicrobial, antioxidant and
antiacetylcholinesterase effect of Ganoderma lucidum terpenoids and polysaccharides: A
review. Molecules 23 649.
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Testing | C&T
facebook.com/CandTmagazine
KEY POINTS Cosmetics & Toiletries
• A well-crafted fragrance that aligns with

@cosmeticsandtoiletries
sociocultural values can inspire positive
emotions in consumers.
• To achieve this, Positive Comparison Patterns

(PCPs) in neuroscience are introduced here
Wellness
and used to elicit positive scent experiences
in Latin American women. Peer-reviewed
by Design Daniela García

ésika Brand, Belcorp, Bogotá
Mauricio Guzmán Alonso,
Fernanda Briceño and
John Jiménez
Belcorp Innovation Center, Positive Comparison Patterns to
Engage Latin American Consumers
A
Bogotá
Through Fragrance
ccording to Mintel, 11% of

Fragrance Experience and
fragrance launches in the Physical Response
Americas between September Fragrances promote emotions that physiologically reduce
2019 and 2020 promoted stress, improve working capacity and contribute the holistic
aromatherapeutic benefits. Such benefits of a positive mood.2 Humans perceive volatile fragrance
claims will continue as strong chemicals through the olfactory system, where approximately
drivers for innovation in the coming years. This highlights an 300 active receptor genes are devoted to detecting thousands of
opportunity to leverage scent for its wellness merits—along different fragrance molecules with diverse protein sequences.
with the need for perfumery brands to closely connect Once detected, guanine nucleotide binding protein (G protein)
fragrance with positive emotional responses in consumers.1 coupled receptors (GPCR) are activated and electrical signals are
The present study seeks to achieve both by evaluating the generated. Subsequently, the electrical signals are transmitted to
physiological effects of fragrances in relation to the emo- the brain by olfactory sensory neurons via the olfactory bulb and
tions they evoke in a group of Latin American panelists. higher olfactory cortex.2

Reproduction in English or any other language of all
all or
or part
part of
of this
this article
article is
is strictly prohibited. © 2021 Allured BusinessVol.
strictly prohibited. 136, No. 9 | October 2021
Media.
CT2110_Testing_Jimenez_fcx.indd 42 9/17/21 3:19 PM

n
Cosmetics & Toiletries | 43

Wellness by Design
There is a positive correlation between

arousal and skin conductance. The more
arousing the fragrance, positive or negative,
the higher the conductance amplitude.
There is a strong link between emotion and been used to perform quantitative and objec-
olfaction. This assumption is supported by tive in-use testing of cosmetic products.9 By
close anatomical connections between emotion correlating odor with brain wave, heart rate
processing regions and the olfactory system.3 and skin conductance measurements, the
Scent-related information is transmitted to the effects of fragrance on mood and preference
brain and subsequently, the specific emotion can be determined.3, 9 For example, there is a
is decided;4 thus, odors can modulate emotion positive correlation between arousal and skin
and mood.5 conductance; the more arousing the fragrance—
Emotions are human states that have mea- positive or negative, the higher the amplitude
surable behavioral, cognitive and physiological of the skin conductance response. On the
consequences. Paul Ekman, in 1970, defined six other hand, the more unpleasant the odor, the
basic emotions: anger, disgust, fear, joy, sadness higher the heart rate. These connections make
and surprise.6 In 1980, psychologist Robert Plut- it possible to classify fragrances based on the
chik introduced a classification model known emotions generated.3
as the “wheel of emotions,” which interestingly Additionally, Positive Comparison Patterns
shows how emotions can be combined with (PCPs), or biometric patterns that emerge
each other.7 pairing given scents with emotional responses,
An emotion is a complex psychological can be incorporated. For instance, consider
state that includes an experience, a physi- how eating chocolate brings happiness to some
ological response and a behavioral or expressive people. Analyzing the implicit responses of
response. This response has two stages: a those people eating chocolate can therefore
sensory-motor primary response that is beneath provide a point of reference for the emotion
conscious awareness, and a secondary process of happiness. These biometrics can then be
of awareness of one’s emotional experience.8 compared with those of users interacting with a
The experience of interacting with a perfume test product to determine whether the product
and resulting physiological response is where elicits a sense of happiness in the user. PCPs are
neuroscience can quantify the expressive identified according to bibliographic support
response to said stimulus—i.e., quantify the and reported common uses in aromatherapy
effect of the fragrance. and aromachology.
The present work compared reference PCPs
Quantifying Emotional with the emotional responses elicited by five
Responses different fragrance compositions in a group of
Latin American panelists. The goal of the study
In recent years, neuroscience techniques
was to determinate how specific compositions
such as electroencephalography (EEG) have
could influence consumer emotions.
The fragrances were formulated with
During the first lockdown, beauty for emotional benefits, olfactory notes to stimulate joy, energy and
such as mood-boosting, energy-inducing and stress- relaxation. Emotions were characterized based
relieving, drove a 117% increase in sales in our well-being on physiological reactions, taking into account
category over the prior year. We believe it will continue to valence and arousal measurements as deter-
inspire behavior into the next year and beyond. mined by EEG, heart rate and skin conductance.
In addition, measurements were correlated with
Source: Alexia Inge, Cult Beauty in-depth qualitative interviews.

Table 1. Test Fragrances Evaluated
Description Olfactory Pyramid

Identification Associated Olfactory
Top Heart Base
code emotion descriptor
Rose Essential, Jasmin, Musk, Vanilla
Pear, Pineapple, Apple,
Ylang, Ylanganate, Bean Extract, Frutal
X8K Happiness Cassis, Raspberry,
Waterlily, Violet Tonka, Almond, Gourmand
Peach, Pepper Pink
Flower, Violet Leaf Amber Patchouly
Bergamot, Pear, Cherry,
Muguet, Rose, Amber, Patchouli, Frutal
R5Z Happiness Armoise Heart, Pepper
Jasmin, Ylangnate Vanilla Gourmand
Pink
Grapefruit, Lemon,
Rose, Jasmin, Muguet, Amber,
Pineapple, Pear,
H7U Energy Violet, Lavandin, Sandalwood, Citric Frutal
Raspberry, Mango,
Vertonic Parchouli, Musk
Peach, Pepper, Pink
Tuberose, Orange
Blood Orange, Lemon,
G3R Energy Flower, Peppermint, Vetiver Citric Floral
Lime
Coffee
Geranium, French Violet Leaf, Jasmin, Ambertonic, Floral
L4G Relaxation
Sage, Lavandin Rose Essential White Musk Fougere
Materials and Table 2. PCP Aroma References

Methods
Panelists: Forty-five healthy
female Colombian participants Associated Associated
Chemical composition References
from Bogotá were recruited. olfactory note emotion
Subjects fell within an age range Aldehyde C-16 Frutal Strawberry Happiness 10
of 25-45 years; were of a medium Gamma Undecalactone Frutal Peach Happiness 11
to medium-high socioeconomic
Orange Sweet Oil Citric Orange Energy 12
status; were regular users of fine
fragrances; and did not exhibit D-Limonene Citric Lemon Energy 12
any olfactory diseases. They also Methyl Ionone Gamma Floral Violet Relaxation 13, 14
did not previously present with Geraniol, Linalool,
chronic allergies, deviations Linalyl Acetate, Lavender Relaxation 15
in the septum or flu. All sub- Caryophyllene
jects gave written consent and
experiments were performed in
accordance with approved guidelines, regulations and
biosafety protocols.
Test fragrances: Five perfume formulations designed
using neuroscience methodologies were procured from a
fragrance company; Table 1 shows the olfactory pyra-
mids of each composition.
PCP references: The PCP references selected for
this study included both olfactory notes and colors with
bibliographic support for stimulating the emotions of
interest. Five olfactive note standards and nine colors
were used (see Table 2 and Figure 1).1 16-19
Implicit Neuroscience Protocol

As noted, this study rated emotional responses based
on physiological valence and arousal measurements.
The equipment used included a wearable EEGa and a Figure 1. PCP Pantone color references

Wellness by Design
biosensorb that monitors physiological changes waves, in specific areas of the brain—pre-fron-
through a Bluetooth connection (see Figure 2). 2 tal, frontal, parietal and occipital. At the same
The EEG was placed on each participant to time, a biosensor was placed on the left hand to
monitor electrical signals, i.e., beta and alpha measure physiological states of the body, such
as skin conductance (GSR) and heart rate (BVP)
a
Electroencephalogram Bitbrain Dry-EEG
(see Figure 3).
3
b
Biosensor Bitbrain Ring
The mean valence and arousal ratings for
each fragrance were evaluated and defined as
follows:
• Valence: How pleasant (positive) or
unpleasant (negative) a stimulus is experi-
enced;20 and
• Arousal/activation: The intensity of a
stimulus’s activating or calming effect.21
Measurement phases: Measurements
consisted of two phases. The first was famil-
iarization, wherein the participant carried out
a mathematical operation for 30 sec, closed
Figure 2. Biosensor their eyes for 1 min, opened their eyes and
carried out a mathematical operation again, and
finally closed their eyes again for 1 min. This
established the baseline for PCP and fragrance
evaluations.
The second phase started with PCP and
fragrance evaluations. Each test fragrance was
presented randomly to participants on a test
strip for 2 min. The test strip was then removed
and the room was ventilated for 3 min, and
participants smelled their own forearms for
10 sec to neutralize the odor. This process was
repeated for all fragrances. The olfactory refer-
ence PCPs related with given emotions were
Figure 3. Participant during neuro-evaluation evaluated by panelists using the same proce-
readings dure; the referential colors were evaluated using
the neuroscience protocol for 30 sec.
Explicit Evaluation Methods

Mood portraits technique: This approach
was used to capture spontaneous emotional
responses to fragrances. Here, subjects are not
asked to cognitively interpret the way they feel
and express those feelings in words. They simply
select pictures they feel evoke the same emo-
tional response as the fragrance stimulus.5
Qualitative interviews: In addition, as
noted, participants filled out questionnaires
regarding fragrances’ effects and acceptability
immediately after the study ended.
Results and Analysis:

Figure 4. Arousal and valence responses ‘Happiness’ Response
to PCP reference colors for “happiness” Figure 4 shows activation (arousal) and
valence (pleasantness) plot averages from

Initially, the top note activation for peach was
higher than for strawberry. This pattern changed
with time, with the middle note activation for
strawberry registering higher than for peach.
panelists in response to the “happiness” PCP

reference colors 032C (“red”), 176C (“coral”)
and 1775C (“pink”). A greater activation was
evident with 032C (see black dashed line),
compared with the other colors.
Figure 5 shows activation and valence
plot averages from panelists in response to
“happiness” PCP reference fragrances; in this
case, the aromas of peach and strawberry.
An increase in activation was evident at the
time of interacting with both fragrances, fol-
lowed by a sustained fall until the end of the
assessment. The maximum activation times
were at 13.7 sec for peach with an activation Figure 5. Arousal and valence responses
level of 14.6, and at 20.6 sec for strawberry to PCP reference aromas for “happiness”
with an activation level of 14.05.

Wellness by Design
It also was observed that while initially, the

top note activation for peach was higher than
for strawberry, this pattern changed with time,
with the middle note activation for strawberry
registering higher than for peach. Regarding
valence, strawberry also registered higher than
peach. Taken together, strawberry had total higher
activation and valence level averages than peach
(44 or p < 0.01).
In terms of test fragrances, Figure 6 shows the
evolution of the activation and valence averages
of volunteers interacting with fragrances X8K and
R5Z (see Table 1),1 which were designed to elicit
a sense of happiness. When participants initially
Figure 6. Arousal and valence responses interacted with the fragrances, the activation
to test perfumes for “happiness” reached a maximum level of 4.9 for R5Z at 16.7
sec, and a level of 0.60 for X8K at 19.5 sec. After
this time, the activation behavior of the two
fragrances was similar.
Kruskal-Wallis statistical analysis showed R5Z
had a higher total activation level than X8K both
in the first 20 sec and in the 2 min the test lasted
(44; p < 0.01). Regarding valence, the two fra-
grances had similar values during the first 20 sec
but in the total reading time, the valence of X8K
was higher (44; p < 0.01).
Figure 7 shows the percentage of panelists
whose happiness/positivity increased until reach-
ing the average valence based on responses to
the reference PCP color and fragrances, and the
test fragrances. These results demonstrate how
the proper selection and application of PCPs can
Figure 7. Arousal and valence averages for “happiness” be a useful element to neuroscience tools used to
optimize the performance of cosmetic products—
in this case, mood-boosting fragrances.

‘Energized’ Response
Similarly to “happiness,” Figure 8 shows the
activation and valence plot averages from panel-
ists in response to the “energized” PCP reference
colors 121C (“yellow”), 1235C (“gold”) and 1645C
(“orange”). Also, Figure 9 shows activation and
valence plot averages from panelists in response to
“energized” PCP reference fragrances; in this case,
the aromas of lemon and orange.
Again, an increase in activation was evident
at the time of interacting with both fragrances,
followed by a sustained fall until the end of the
assessment. The maximum activation time was
Figure 8. Arousal and valence responses to at 14 sec for both aromas, with a level of 6.8 for
PCP reference colors for “energized” orange and 14.2 for lemon. Notably, throughout
the test, the activation levels of lemon were higher

than that of orange, as were the valence readings.
The lemon also presented total higher activation
and valence levels than orange (44; p < 0.01).
Regarding test fragrances, Figure 10 shows the
evolution of the activation and valence averages
of volunteers interacting with fragrances H7U
and G3R (see Table 1),1 which were designed to
elicit the sense of being energized. When partici-
pants initially interacted with the fragrances, the
activation reached a maximum level of -2.8 for
G3R at 18.2 sec, and -7.1 for H7U at 13.5 sec. After
reaching their respective maximums, the activa-
tion behavior of the two fragrances was similar
and began to decrease, although the activation
Figure 9. Arousal and valence responses to
of G3R was always higher than that of H7U. The PCP reference aromas for “energized”
G3R fragrance had a total higher activation level
than H7U (44; p < 0.01).
Figure 11 shows the percentage of panelists
whose sense of being “energized” and positivity
increased until reaching the average valence
based on responses to the reference PCP color and
fragrances, and the test fragrances. Average values
for the PCPs were notably similar to those for the
test fragrances.

‘Relaxed’ Response
Figure 12 shows the activation and valence
plot averages from panelists in response to the
“relaxed” PCP reference colors 2083C (“purple”),
2715C (“lavender”) and 530C (“lilac”). Figure 13
shows activation and valence plot averages from
panelists in response to the “relaxed” PCP refer-
Figure 10. Arousal and valence responses
ence fragrances of violet and lavender. to test perfumes for “energized”
An increase in activation was evident at the
time of interacting with both fragrances, followed
by a sustained fall until the end of the assessment.
The maximum activation level was 12.8 at 12.3
sec for violet, and 14.58 at 17.3 sec for lavender.
Throughout the test, the valence levels were
similar for both fragrances. Lavender had a higher
total level of activation and valence than violet (44;
p < 0.01). Figure 14 shows the evolution of activa-
tion and valence levels for the “relaxed” perfume
concept. Figure 15 shows the percentage of panel-
ists whose sense of being “relaxed” increased.
Explicit Results: Color

Based on feedback from the panelist question-
naires, several observations were made in terms of
the PCP colors. Figure 11. Arousal and valence averages for
Happiness: Reference PCP colors 176C and being “energized”
1775C were most closely related to “happiness”

Wellness by Design
by the Colombian female panelists. Given their

pink hues, these colors generated a feeling of
security, optimism and a courageous attitude
(data not shown). On the other hand, color
032C generated rejection and was qualitatively
described as anger and violence, represented by
the blood red color.
It is interesting to note that the red 032C
color, as an implicit PCP reference, above,
was connected with happiness whereas in this
explicit evaluation, it evokes a negative connota-
tion. This might be explained by the theory of
color psychology, wherein colors are perceived
Figure 12. Arousal and valence responses from a 360-degree context; e.g., red can relate
to PCP reference colors for “relaxed” to strength, attention and passion, but also
violence and anger.
Energized: Intense orange tones such as
1645C represented energy and expressed an
explosion of emotion that became evident. It
impressed a feeling of pride and action, which
was qualitatively related to the sun, light,
warmth and life-giving feelings and emotions
one wants to share with friends and partners.
Relaxed: Biometrically, color 2715C was
related to the joy and a pleasant calm feeling,
highly valued by Colombian women who lead
a hectic day-to-day pace of life. This color was
qualitatively associated with the relaxation
elicited by the sky and the sea, whereas the pale
530C color was viewed as producing low activ-
ity, boredom and sadness.
Figure 13. Arousal and valence responses
to PCP reference aromas for “relaxed” Explicit Results: Fragrance
Also based on feedback from panelist ques-
tionnaires, observations were made in terms of
the test fragrances; note that PCP fragrances
were not explicitly evaluated. Although there are
global references that attempt to put into words
the feelings of happiness, energized and relaxed
measured in this evaluation, this qualitative
phase sought to understand the Latin sociocul-
tural meanings of these words (see Table 6).6
For example, when Colombian panelists
speak of happiness, this refers to the satisfaction
they feel when they are with family, or when
they or their loved ones fulfill their ambitions.
Happiness is tinged with nostalgia for good
memories from growing up, and through
which a path of life is built for and with their
loved ones.
Figure 14. Arousal and valence averages As far as being energized, the Colombian
for being “relaxed” women translated this as a friendly euphoria,
enjoyed with relatives, friends or a partner,

Colombian women perceived the L4G fragrance as achieving calm and relaxed effects by evoking an intrinsic characteristic of
themselves: softness.
where they are in a jovial moment in life, seek- short time, is perceived with greater intensity,
ing with great passion to achieve their goals. relating to citrus aromas such as lemon that
On the other hand, being relaxed and calm is bear a resemblance to being energized and
an opposite extreme, wherein the women seek active, and that translates to a feeling of uncom-
a very personal inner moment, connecting with plicated freshness and friendship.
the wisdom and peace their grandparents have Relaxed: Finally, sociocultural indicators
transmitted. Reaching a state of calm entails a explain the Colombian women perceived the
feeling of maturity and serenity, considered as L4G fragrance as achieving calm and relaxed
the end of a hero's path. This state shows traces effects by evoking an intrinsic characteristic of
of experience and in its greatest fullness, deeply themselves: softness. This is evoked through the
breathes in a panoramic view from wide, open perception of a baby scent, putting the user in
spaces, e.g., a field. a mood of self-content, and imparting the sense
Happiness: Taking into account these of inner peace, relaxation and tenderness. Put in
sociocultural interpretations, the happiness gen-
erated by the X8K fragrance becomes clearer.
Based on fruity, sweet aromas (see Table 1), 1 on
an emotional level, this scent resembles a happy
childhood. At the same time, it refers to familiar
scenarios of trust and security, and brings up
nostalgic, positive and optimistic memories that
result in feeling a calm and carefree happiness.
Considering its aromatic persistence, the women
described it as follows: “It is a familiar smell. It
is like being calm and happy in your space. … It
is a persistent aroma that would never leave me,
and that makes me feel safe and happy."
Energized: Regarding the H7U aroma
evaluated for energizing effects, the Colombian
women described the top notes as transmitting
floral and soft scents that favor dawn, when Figure 15. Arousal and valence average for
they prefer to start playing sports. The fragrance being “relaxed”
begins with this passive activation and after a

Wellness by Design
their own words, the panelists stated, "It takes Acknowledgements: The authors with to thank International Flavors
me to a magical world of softness and tranquil- & Fragrances, Inc., for support and guidance in the development of
ity. … I think of baby powder and that generates this study.
tenderness and peace."
References
Conclusions 1. Di Gesou, R. (2020, Oct). A year of innovation in fragrances, 2020.
Scents can evoke autobiographical memo- Mintel Global Report.
ries that have emotional connotations, some 2. Sowndharajan, K. and Kim S. (2016). Influence of fragrances on
of which have even been long forgotten—also human psychophysiological activity: With special reference to human
electroencephalographic response. Sci Pharm 84 724-751.
referred to as the Proust phenomenon.22 The
3. Bestgen, A.K., Schulze, P. and Kuchinke, L. (2015). Odor emotional
use of Positive Comparison Patterns (PCPs) as quality predicts odor indentification. Chemical Senses vol 40,
an evaluation tool in neuroscience studies, as 517-523.
shown here, can provide a better understand- 4. Verhagen, J.V. and Engelen, L. (2006). The neurocognitive bases of
ing of consumer behavior. By comparing the human multimodal food perception: Sensory integration. Neurosci
Biobehav Rev 30(5).
activation and valence readings of reference
5. Kadohisa, M. (2013). Effects of odor on emotion, with implications.
PCPs with those of study products, emotion can Front Syst Neurosci 7:66.
be validated and a degree of activation can be 6. Ekman, P. (1970). Universal facial expressions of emotion. California
revealed in test stimuli of interest; in this case, Mental Health Research Digest vol 8(4).
fragrances. The cosmetics industry has a great 7. Plutchik, R. (982). A psychoevolutionary theory of emotions. Social
opportunity to develop neuroscience studies Science Information 21, issue 4-5.
using PCPs—the challenge will be to find refer- 8. Churchill, A. and Behan, J. (2010) Comparison of methods used to
study consumer emotions associated with fragrance. Food Quality
ence standards with adequate scientific support and Preference 21 1108-1113.
to compare and reveal the emotions truly gener- 9. Park, K.H., Kim H.J., Oh, B., Seo, M., Lee, E. and Ha, J. (2019).
ated by cosmetic products. Evaluation of human electroencephalogram change for sensory
effects of fragrance. Skin Res Technol 25 526-531.
10. Iannilli, E., Sorokowska, A., Zhigang, Z., Hähner, A., Warr, J., and
Hummel, T. (2015). Source localization of event-related brain activity
elicited by food and nonfood odors. Neuroscience 289 99-105.
11. Liu, Y., Toet, A., Kronel, T., Stokkud, R., Eijsman, S. and Van, J.
(2020). A network model of affective odor perception. Available at
https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0236468
12. Angelucci, F., Silva, S., Dal Pizzol, C., Spir, L.G., Praes, C. and
Maibach, H. (2014). Physiological effect of olfactory stimuli inhalation
in humans: An overview. Intl J Cos Sci 36 117-123.
13. Jo, H. and Rodiek, S. (2013) Physiological and psychological
Tune In!
response to floral scent. Hortscience 48(1) 82-88.
14. Worwood, V. (1999) Aromatherapy for the Soul. Novato, CA: New
World Library, 284.
15. Sayorwan, W., Siripornpanich, V., Piriyapunyaporn, T., Hongratana-
worakit, T., Kotchabhakdi, N. and Ruangrungsi, N. (2012) The effects
of lavender oil inhalation on emotional states, autonomic nervous
system and brain electrical activity. J Med Assoc Thai 95 598-606.
16. Díaz, J. and Flores, E. (2001). La estructura de la emoción humana:
Un modelo cromático del sistema afectivo. Salud mental 4(4) pp
20-35.
17. Güneş, E. and Olguntürk, N. (2020). Color-emotion associations in
interiors. Color Res Appl 45 129-141.
18. Suk, H. and Irtel, H. (2010). Emotional response to color across
media. Color Res Appl 35 64-77.
19. Solli, M. and Lenz, R. (2011). Color emotions for multi-colored
Cosmetics & Toiletries’ images. Color Res Appl 36(3) 210-221.

20. Kaeppler, K. and Mueller, F. (2013). Odor classification: A review of
On-demand Webcasts factors influencing perception-based odor arrangements. Chem

Senses 38(3) 189-209.
21. Winston, J.S., Gottfried, J.A., Kilner, J.M. and Dolan, R.J. (2005).
Integrated neural representations of odor intensity and affective
valence in human amygdala. J Neurosci 25(39) 8903-8907.
www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/multimedia 22. Chu, S. and Downes, J.J. (2000). Odor-evoked autobiographical
memories: Psychological investigations of Proustian phenomena.
Chem Senses 25(1) 111-116.

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Formulating | C&T
KEY POINTS
• While lesser known than betaines,
sultaines present key benefits beyond
safety that are especially relevant to
today’s cosmetic consumer.
• The present article describes the safety,

sustainable production and other
marketable traits of sultaines, and
demonstrates their parity in performance
with betaines.
Peer-reviewed
Sustainable
and Safe
I
Sultaines for Consumer-Focused
Surfactant Performance
Dennis Abbeduto n this age of clean beauty—especially now that the world is keenly
Colonial Chemical, South Pittsburg, TN USA focused on health and wellness—sultaines offer a safe and sustainable
surfactant solution to personal care product developers. Functioning
similarly to frequently used betaines, which have fallen into disfavor over
allergenic potential, sultaines are used in personal care cleansing products
ranging from shampoos and body washes to facial washes.1, 6 They serve
to enhance the viscosity of anionic surfactants, reduce irritation and produce
dense and stable foam.3

facebook.com/CandTmagazine all or part of this article isCosmetics & Toiletries
strictly prohibited. Vol. 136, No. 9 | October 2021
@cosmeticsandtoiletries
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Sustainable and Safe
The zwitterionic nature of sultaines lends

to their compatibility with various anionic,
cationic and nonionic surfactants.
Sultaines are lesser-known than betaines. Structurally, sultaines are analogous to

According to Mintel GNPD, from January 2018 traditional betaines. For example, acylami-
to September 2021, approximately 60,000 dopropyl betaines and sultaines both possess
products containing cocamidopropyl betaine the same amidopropylamine substructure (see
were added to the global database. During the Figure 1,1 bolded lines and text); however, unlike
same period, only ~2,000 products containing acylamidopropyl betaines, which terminate with
cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine were added. a carboxylate group, acylamidopropyl sultaines
The use of sultaines has been less widespread terminate with a sulfonate group. The sulfonate
than betaines primarily because additional functional group affords improved solubility in
reaction steps are required to produce them. hard water, as the carboxylate salts of calcium
However, their other attributes have become are less soluble than of sulfonates.9 Indeed, sul-
much more market-relevant today. For example, taines retain solubility and performance under a
in addition to their known safety, sultaines wide variety of conditions.10
can be sustainably produced and they support The terminal sulfonate structure in sultaines
higher renewable carbon indices. These and is connected through a three-carbon hydroxy-
other characteristics are discussed in the pres- propyl linkage to the permanently quaternary
ent article. In addition, the authors compare the nitrogen. In the case of the betaine, the car-
performance of sultaines with betaines in basic boxylate group is connected via a one-carbon
wetting, viscosity-building and foaming tests. bridge, thus possessing one fewer carbon than
its sultaine counterpart.
Structural Characteristics
Sultaines are commonly grouped within the Sustainable Production
class of surfactants called amphoterics. More As the personal care industry races toward
precisely, they are zwitterionic4-6 at a typical sustainable solutions, surfactant manufacturers
formulation pH, carrying both a positive and have worked hard to keep in step. In contrast,
a negative charge covalently linked within the upstream commodity intermediate manufac-
same molecule. This makes them internally turers have been slower to make important
balanced with a net charge of zero. It is not changes, as their business and manufacturing
possible for sultaines to exhibit a net negative are firmly rooted in established supply chains.
charge7 and they generally do not exhibit an For instance, making a traditional coco-betaine
overall positive charge above pH 3;8 so in fact, 100% bio-based is technically feasible, as
they are not truly amphoteric. This zwitterionic intermediates like fatty dimethyl amines could
nature lends itself to compatibility with various be made using bio-based methanol produced
anionic, cationic and nonionic surfactants. by fermenting a variety of cellulosic products.
The current production of dimethylamine relies
on commodity methanol, however, which is
produced from syngas or methane of
The global facial cleanser market size is
fossil origin.11, 12
projected to reach approximately US $34.29 Also, monochloroacetic acid or sodium
billion by 2027, expanding at a CAGR of 5.73% monochloroacetate (MCA or SMCA) feedstocks
from 2020. could be produced from bio-based acetic acid,
again using fermentation. The current produc-
Source: Market Research Future tion of MCA is via chlorination of acetic acid,
which in turn is produced from a variety of

fossil origin feedstocks.13, 14 This is not currently substituting this one intermediate, it is possible
the case when it comes to the manufacture of to make substantial headway into improving a
traditional betaines because these 100% bio- product’s sustainability.
based intermediates are not available. This bio-based improvement could be used
However, there have been other successes in to support a higher ISO 16128 score,9 or could
moving from petrochemically derived interme- be verified by third party testing and used to
diates to bio-based equivalents. One example support a higher U.S. Department of Agriculture
is a commodity chemical intermediate used (USDA) Certified Biobased rating according
to produce sultaines that remains primarily to the USDA BioPreferred program.17 Figure 1
petrochemical in origin but is now also available indicates which portions of these products,
from a more sustainable and bio-based source: when derived from vegetable oil, are vegetable,
the glycerin by-product of the hydrolysis of petrochemical, mineral or flexible in origin; for
triglyceride oils. coconut-based products, an approximate value
In the manufacturing sultaines, the first step of 12 can be used for the carbon chain length.
is identical to that of betaines—i.e., synthesis It also is worth noting that sultaines can
of the alkyldimethylamine or amidoamine, as readily be produced at 50% solids content
are the feedstocks used.5, 15 Sultaine chemistry, without requiring special additives, processing
though, requires a different second step. Instead aids or changes in manufacturing equipment.
of carboxylation, hydroxypropylsulfonation In comparison, typically betaines can only be
is carried out via the intermediate chlorhy- produced at 35-40% solids before additives
droxypropylsulfonate (CHPS).15 Although most or special processing must be employed.19-20
manufacturers of CHPS use petrochemical Thanks to their higher concentration, typical
feedstocks, there has been movement
toward the bio-renewable feedstock. The
bio-renewal reaction pathway gives the
exact same sultaine and sodium chloride
by-product15, 16 but with a more sustain-
able CHPS intermediate and sultaine
end product.
Based on its structure, sultaine
chemistry will typically contain one more
“black,” or fossil, carbon than betaines
when the traditional petrochemical
intermediate CHPS is used. Using a
bio-based intermediate, however, has
a major impact on the final product’s
sustainability. For example, whereas a
traditional cocamidopropyl hydroxy-
sultaine made from the petrochemical
intermediate would have only about
60% bio-based carbon content, using the
bio-based intermediate increases the bio- Figure 1. Surfactant structures
based carbon content to almost 80%. By
Formula 1. Test Gel
Ingredient Cocamidopropyl Betaine Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine

Water (aqua) 73.5 74.8
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, 30% 10.0 10.0
Sodium Laureth-2 Sulfate, 30% 10.0 10.0
Cocamide DIPA 1.5 1.5
Amphoteric 5.0 3.7

sultaines also require proportionally

lower use levels to deliver equal perfor-
mance from identical feedstocks.
Materials and Methods

Sultaines and betaines share many
common features in personal care
applications. They both provide foam
stabilization, increase foam density by
decreasing bubble size and compact-
ing foam, and improve the viscosity
response of primary surfactants by
increasing the overall salt response of
Figure 2. Wetting and foam performance these anionic materials.5, 21 Sultaines
and betaines also lower the critical
micelle content (CMC) of formulations
using anionic primary surfactants,
which reduces the irritation of primary
surfactants5, 22—a key reason formula-
tors use them. To compare some of
these performance attributes, basic
assessments were made, described
as follows.
Ingredients and test formulas:
Standard grades of cocamidopropyl
betaine and cocamidopropyl hydroxy-
sultaine from whole coconut oil were
incorporated into a basic gel wash
formula for testing (see Formula 1). 1
Wetting and foam: Fundamental
evaluations for wetting, viscosity-
building and foam—i.e., the well-known
Draves Wetting23 and Ross-Miles
Figure 3. Ross Miles foam comparison Foam24—were carried out using the test
gels to compare the performance of
sultaines with that of betaines.
Safety and eye irritation: Previous
work has confirmed sultaines to be as
safe or safer than betaines.3, 25-28 In addi-
tion, the present work explored the eye
irritation potential of both surfactants
using the HET-CAM model.25, 29
Performance Results
Figures 2-4 show the results for
Draves Wetting and Ross-Miles Foam
for both surfactants in deionized and
salt water. Formulation performance
using the model gel wash demonstrated
nearly identical viscosity-building and
foam profiles when the surfactant usage
was corrected for the solid matter
Figure 4. Salt curve comparison content of the products.

The higher solids content and salt concentration
of sultaines reduces water activity and renders
them better self-preserved.
Sultaines also demonstrated lower inher- tal Working Group’s (EWG) Skin Deep rating as
ent eye irritation potential than betaines (see guidance. In fact, the group has even established
Table 1). This is advantageous in formulations
Table 1 its EWG Verified label on select products sold
where the sultaine may be used as the sole through Amazon, raising consumer awareness
surfactant or at higher use rates. about cosmetics safety and this rating system.30
Briefly, in the Skin Deep system, according
Discussion: Consumer to the group’s website,31 studies and data for
Appeal and Marketability ingredients are reviewed for 17 general hazard
The parity in performance of
sultaines with betaines, plus their Table 1. HET-CAM Irritation Score Comparison
sustainable production, highlights
the potential for sultaines as betaine
replacements. In addition, they offer HET-CAM score @ 4%
key benefits to appeal to today’s con- solids, pH 6.0
sumer, including the following.
Cocamidopropyl Betaine 18
EWG rating: With not only safety
but also consumer appeal in mind, Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine 12
some formulators use the Environmen-

Sultaines provide a sustainable option to formulate cleansing products that are high quality and environmentally conscious.
categories and assigned a score based on the functionality, safety and marketability.
weight of evidence. Further calculations and Alternative natural oil feedstocks with a
ratings are made to arrive at a final score from 1 to favorable sustainability profile are also being
10, where 10 represents the highest concern. investigated for sultaine production, includ-
On this scale, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine ing from underutilized seeds, algae or other
is rated as 1, compared with cocamidopropyl biosynthetic materials. These could drive future
betaine, which can rate up to 5 depending on development. One hundred percent bio-based
the use.26, 32 With a score of 1, cocamidopropyl tertiary amines also would represent a leap
hydroxysultaine is rated on par with the safest forward in sustainability.
personal care product ingredients including Thus, with their parity in performance to
coconut oil itself.33 betaines, and enhanced benefits and market
OECD and EU acceptance: Cocamidopropyl appeal, sultaines provide a safer, more sustain-
hydroxysultaine also has been evaluated according able option to formulate cleansing products
to the Organization for Economic Co-operation that are high quality, consumer acceptable and
and Development (OECD) 301D test guideline and environmentally conscious.
like betaines, it has been shown to be readily bio-
degradable. Furthermore, the European Union’s References
Cosmetic Directive Annex III28 restricts the use of 1. Arif, S. (2009, Sep 2). The formulation basics for personal
neither sultaines nor betaines. cleansers. Available at https://bit.ly/3BFRkoJ
Preservation: A final consideration is preserva- 2. Tai, L.H.T. and Nardello-Rataj, V. (2001, Mar-Apr). Deter-
tion. Under conditions such as bulk storage and gents. Detergents; The main surfactants used in detergents
and personal care products. Available at https://www.
frequent handling, as is well-known, betaines can ocl-journal.org/articles/ocl/pdf/2001/02/ocl200182p141.pdf
be susceptible to microbial growth. As such, many 3. Verdicchio, R.J. (1982, May 13-14). Formulating mild sur-
grades are supplied with added preservative, most factant systems with counter irritants. Johnson & Johnson
commonly isothiazolinones. These preservatives baby products. Society of Cosmetic Chemists Annual
Scientific Seminar. Memphis, TN.
have been used for years but the industry is phas-
4. Becker, T.M. (2012, Jul 16). Zwitterionic surfac-
ing them out due to reported sensitization and tants: A milder alternative? Available at https://
allergenic potential.34 As such, formulators seek www.naturallycurly.com/curlreading/ingredients/
alternatives or preservative-free options. zwitterionic-surfactants-a-milder-alternative
Sultaines are usually supplied preservative-free. 5. Clendennen, S.K. and Boaz, N.W. (2019). Ch 14 - Betaine
amphoteric surfactants—Synthesis, properties and applica-
This is because their higher solids content and tions. Available at https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/
salt concentration—typically 50% solids and 7% article/pii/B9780128127056000149
salt, versus 35% solids and 5% salt for betaine— 6. Noureddini, H. and Medikonduru, V. (1997). Glycerolysis of
reduces water activity and renders them better fats and methyl esters. J Amer Oil Chem Soc 74, 419-425.
self-preserved. 7. Blackman, L.D., Gunatillake, P.A., Cass, P. and Locock,

K.E.S. (2019). An Introduction to zwitterionic polymer
behavior and applications in solution and at surfaces.
Conclusion Chem Soc Rev 48 757-770.
Sultaines offer the latest sustainable route to 8. Guthrie, J. P. (1978). Hydrolysis of esters of oxy acids: pKa
values for strong acids. Can J Chem 56, 2342-2354.
surfactants with the same if not more product
9. ISO (2016). ISO 16128-2016. Guidelines on technical
benefits associated with secondary surfactants.
definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic
Examples include foam stability, viscosity ingredients and products—Part 1: Definitions for ingredi-
response, higher solids content, self-preserving ents. Available at https://www.iso.org/standard/62503.html

10. Roncoroni, M.A., Romero, P., et al. (2021). Enhancement 23. ASTM International (2016). ASTM D2281-10(2016). Stan-
of a foaming formulation with a zwitterionic surfactant for dard test method for evaluation of wetting agents by the
gas mobility control in harsh reservoir conditions. Available Skein test. Available at https://www.astm.org/Standards/
at https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/ D2281.htm
S199582262100025X 24. ASTM International (2015). ASTM D1173-07(2015). Stan-
11. Wikipedia (accessed 2021, Sep 3). Dimethyl- dard test method for foaming properties of surface-active
amine. Available at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ agents. Available at https://www.astm.org/Standards/
Dimethylamine#Structure_and_synthesis D1173.htm
12. Wikipedia (accessed 2021, Sep 3). Methanol. Available at 25. Cosmetic Ingredient Review (2018, Jun 6). Safety assess-
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Methanol#Production ment of alkyl sultaines as used in cosmetics–Final report.
13. Wikipedia (accessed 2021, Sep 3). Chloracetic Available at https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/
acid. Available at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ sultan032018final.pdf
Chloroacetic_acid#Production 26. Environmental Working Group (accessed 2021, Sep 3).
14. Wikipedia (accessed 2021, Sep 3). Acetic acid. Available at Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine. Available at https://bit.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetic_acid#Production ly/3takk52
15. Otterson, R. (2006). 6.2 Amphoteric Surfactants. In Farn, 27. Ontario SCC (accessed 2021, Sep 3). Proposition 65:
R.J., ed, Chemistry and Technology of Surfactants. Black- Betaines and hydroxysultaines. Available at https://www.
well Publishing Ltd. Oxford, UK pp 170-315. ontarioscc.org/index_htm_files/SCCProp%2065March2018.
pdf
16. Yangxin, Y.U., Jin, Z. and Bayly, A.E. (2008). Development
of surfactants and builders in detergent formulations. Chin J 28. European Chemicals Agency (accessed 2020, Jun
Chem Eng 16(4) 517-527. 23). Cocamidopropylhydroxy sultaine. Available at
https://echa.europa.eu/substance-information/-/
17. USDA (accessed 2021, Sep 3). USDA Biopreferred. Avail- substanceinfo/100.226.736
able at https://www.biopreferred.gov/BioPreferred/
29. Gettings, S.D., Lordo, R.A., Feder, P.I. and Hintze, K.L.
18. Otterson, R.J., Berg, R. and D’Aversa, E.A. (2007, Aug 14). (1998). A comparison of low volume, Draize and in vitro eye
US Pat 7256164B2. High concentration compositions and irritation test data. III. Surfactant-based formulations. Food
methods. Available at https://patents.google.com/patent/ and Chem Toxicol 36(3) 209-231.
US7256164B2
30. Global Cosmetic Industry (2021, Jun 25). EWG takes
19. González, J.M., Bermejo, M.J., Barceló, R.M. and Siscart, ‘clean beauty’ to the next level. Available at https://www.
J.V.N. (2001, Mar 27). US Pat 6207629B1. Concentrated gcimagazine.com/business/rd/regulatory/EWG-Takes-
aqueous betaine-type surfactant compositions and process Clean-Beauty-to-the-Next-Level-574710091.html
for their preparation. Available at https://patents.google.
com/patent/US6207629B1 31. Environmental Working Group (accessed 2021, Sep 3).
About EWG’s Skin Deep. Available at https://www.ewg.org/
20. Llosas, J.B. and Subirama, R.P. (1995, Sep 14). World Pat skindeep/contents/about-page/
1995024376A1. Niedrigviskose wässrige konzentrate von
betaintensiden. Available at https://patents.google.com/ 32. Environmental Working Group (accessed 2020, Jun 23).
patent/WO1995024376A1 Cocamidopropyl betaine. Available at https://www.ewg.org/
skindeep/ingredients/701520-cocamidopropyl_betaine
21. Staszak, K., Wieczorek, D. and Michocka, K. (2015). Effect
of sodium chloride on the surface and wetting properties of 33. Environmental Working Group (accessed 2020,
aqueous solutions of cocamidopropyl betaine. J Surfactants Sep 3). Cocos nucifera (coonut) oil. Avail-
Deterg 18(2) 321-328. able at https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/
ingredients/701566-cocos-nucifera-coconut-oil/
22. Seweryn, A. (2018). Interactions between surfactants and
the skin—Theory and practice. Advances in Colloid and 34. Li-ping, W.E.N and Jia, Y.I.N. (accessed 2021, Sep 3). Aller-
Interface Science 256 242-255. gic contact dermatitis induced by cocamidopropyl betaine.
Available at http://en.cnki.com.cn/Article_en/CJFDTotal-
OZHL200801009.htm
The sultaine formulation demonstrated nearly

identical viscosity-building and foam profiles when
corrected for the solid matter content.

Formulating | C&T
The following prototype formulas are

offered for your consideration as a basis
from which to build your own, and for fur-
ther testing and validation. The information
is listed as originally provided by suppli-
ers; note that in some cases, companies or
ingredients may have changed.
Skin and Hair

Cleansing/Care Formulary
PREMIUM BODY SHAMPOO SUPERFRUIT SHAMPOO
(Acme-Hardesty Co.) (Bio-Botanica Inc.)
This creamy and rich-foaming formula offers

moisturization and mildness. A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w
A. Cocamidopropyl Betaine (and) Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate 0.20
(and) Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate (Lumorol K 5601, Punica Granatum Seed Oil 0.60
Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH) 42.00% w/w Lycium Barbarum (Goji) Fruit Extract (and) Coffea Arabica
Fragrance (parfum) qs (Coffee) Fruit Extract (and) Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract
B. Hydroxypropyltrimonium Inulin (Quatin, (and) Morinda Citrifolia Fruit Extract (and) Punica Granatum
Cosun Beet Company - Biobased Experts) 1.25 Extract (and) Garcinia Mangostana Fruit Extract (and)
Sodium Phytate (and) Water (aqua) (and) Alcohol Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (and) Propanediol
(Dermofeel PA-3, Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte GmbH) 0.05 (Superfruit Blend, Bio-Botanica Inc.) 2.00
Sodium Benzoate 0.40 Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Extract 2.00
Citric Acid qs Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract 2.00
Water (aqua) qs Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract 2.00
Procedure: Homogenize A. Homogenize B. Add B to A and stir until homogenous. Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Extract (Rosemary
Control the pH and adjust, if necessary, to pH 5.6; properties: appearance = clear (Rosmarinus officinalis) extract, Bio-Botanica Inc.) 2.00
and viscous; viscosity at pH 5.4–5.8 = 10,000–12,000 mPa.s (@20°C). Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine 8.50
Cocamidopropyl Betaine 8.00
Decyl Glucoside 7.75
Panthenol 0.60
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein 0.50
Phenoxyethanol 0.50
Polyquaternium-7 0.50
Want More Formulas? Citric Acid 0.20
B. Red 33 0.20
Click to Page DM5 for the expanded formulary, Yellow 6 0.40
complete with interactive links to the free Procedure: In main beaker, mix A under light mixer agitation and create a vortex. Heat
Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Reference. to 60°C. Begin cooling under agitation. When batch reaches 40°C, add B; proper-
ties: appearance = medium viscosity, pink color; pH = 4.50-6.50.
CT2110_Skin_Hair_Frmlry_fcx.indd 62 9/22/21 12:05 PM

EXPANDED Skin and Hair Cleansing/Care Formulary
CELL REJUVENATING INTENSE CARE MOISTURIZING SUNSCREEN

(Centerchem Inc.) (Colonial Chemical Inc.)
A. Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789,
DSM Personal Care) 3.00% w/w
This formula is a smooth, pumpable, high-protection
Dicaprylyl Carbonate 5.00 sunscreen cream that protects and moisturizes skin.
Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate 4.00 A. Potassium Cetyl Phosphate 1.20% w/w
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.20 Isostearamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride 2.50
Octocrylene (Parsol 340, DSM Personal Care) 3.00 Water (aqua) qs to 100.00
Polysilicone-15 (Parsol SLX, DSM Personal Care) 1.00 Titanium Dioxide 0.40
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate (Amphisol K, DSM Personal Care) 3.00 B. Cetyl Alcohol 2.00
Tocopheryl Acetate 1.00 Isopropyl Palmitate 2.00
Cetearyl Alcohol 3.00 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 1.60
Myristyl Myristate 2.00 Dimethicone 1.00
Cetyl Palmitate 2.00 Octylmethoxy Cinnamate 6.00
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 4.00 Methyl Anthranilate 3.00
B. Xanthan Gum 0.30 C. Fragrance (parfum) qs
Butylene Glycol 3.00 Preservatives qs
Disodium EDTA 0.10 Colorants qs
Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 Procedure: Combine A and heat with agitation to 60°C. Separately combine B and
C. Tromethamine 2.45 heat to 60°C. Homogenize B into A, ensuring good emulsification. Stir and cool
D. Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (Parsol HS, to 45°C, then add C.
DSM Personal Care) 2.00
Tromethamine 4.00
Water (aqua) 10.00
E. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 (Syn-Coll, Centerchem) 1.50
RETINOID SERUM
Tapioca Starch 1.50 (Grant Industries Inc.)
Propanediol (and) Glycerin (and) Water (aqua) (and) A. Water (aqua) 27.00% w/w
Asparagus Officinalis Stem Extract (and) Gluconolactone Hydroxyethylcellulose (Natrosol 250 HHR, Aqualon/Hercules) 10.00
(and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Potassium Sorbate (and) Carbomer (Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer,
Calcium Gluconate (ReguScence, DSM Personal Care) 3.00 Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) 5.00
Tocopherol (Mixed Tocopherols 95, DSM Personal Care) 0.20 Butylene Glycol 10.00
Preservatives qs Glycerin 5.00
Procedure: Heat components of A and B separately to 80°C with mixing. Dissolve Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20, Croda) 0.30
Parsol HS in D in water and adjust pH > 7. Add B to A while mixing. Homogenize Decyl Glucoside 0.10
@13,800 rpm for 2 min. Cool to 45°C and add C, D and E successively to AB Triethanolamine 0.10
with mixing. Homogenize again @13,800 rpm for 1 min. Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Potassium Sorbate
(and) Water (aqua) (and) Hexylene Glycol (Jeecide CAP-5,
Jeen International Corp.) 1.00
B. Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (Cetiol LC, BASF SE) 5.00
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
(Aristoflex AVC, Clariant Int., Ltd.) 0.20
Dimethicone 5.00
Isopropyl Isostearate (Wickenol 131, Alzo International Inc.) 2.00
Lecithin 0.30
Dimethyl Isosorbide (and) Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
(Granactive Retinoid, Grant Industries Inc.) 2.00
Dimethicone (and) Polysilicone-11 (and) Butylene Glycol (and)
Water (aqua) (and) Decyl Glucoside (Gransil SiW-066,
Grant Industries Inc.) 20.00
Polymethylsilsesquioxane (Gransil PSQ, Grant Industries Inc.) 5.00
Dimethicone 1.00
Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Trideceth-6 (and) Ethylhexyl Stearate
(Cosmedia ATH, BASF SE) 1.00
100.00
Procedure: Weigh A in the main kettle equipped with side sweep and mix well.
Weigh B in a side kettle and mix well. Slowly add B to A with mixing. Mix until
homogeneous.
COCCOON DELIGHT
(Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)
This mousse-textured formula has a rich skin feel and

imparts nourishing action for skin.
A. Water (aqua) 66.25% w/w
Sodium Phytate (and) Water (aqua) (and) Alcohol (Dermofeel
PA-3, Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte GmbH) 0.1
Glycerin 3.0
Behenyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Phospholipids
(and) Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols (Amisol Soft, Lucas
Meyer Cosmetics by IFF) 3.0
CI 14700 0.25

EXPANDED Skin and Hair Cleansing/Care Formulary
B. Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate (Dermofeel SL, Dr. Straetmans C. Water (aqua) (and) Niacinamide (and) Glycerin (and) Acetyl
Chemische Produkte GmbH) 2.0 Glucosamine (and) Tocopheryl Acetate (and) Hordeum
Tocopherol (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Vulgare Extract (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Lecithin (and)
(Vitapherole E1000, VitaeNaturals) 0.5 Pterocarpus Marsupium Bark Extract (and) Phenoxyethanol
Isononyl Isononanoate 4.0 (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Decylene Glycol (and) Ricinus
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (Lipex 102, AAK) 8.0 Communis (Castor) Seed Oil (and) Octadecyl Di-t-butyl-4-
Stearyl Heptanoate (Crodamol W, Croda Europe Ltd.) 4.0 hydroxyhydrocinnamate (and) Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate
C. Sodium Acrylates Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Crosspolymer (and) Tetrasodium EDTA (and)
Polyisobutene (and) Phospholipids (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Tetrahydropiperine (AgeLess Complex DCx, Sabinsa) 3.00
Stearate (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil D. Dimethicone 1.00
(Heliogel, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by IFF) 2.0 Phenoxyethanol 1.00
D. Butylene Glycol (and) Alteromonas Ferment Extract (and) E. Fragrance (parfum) qs
Water(aqua) (Exo-H, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by IFF) 1.0 100.00
Betaine (and) Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin (and) Hydrogenated Procedure: Weigh all ingredients. Add ingredients of A in order. Add B to A and mix
Lecithin (and) Honey (and) Pectin (Hydraporine, Lucas Meyer well to get a thick gel. Add C to AB and mix well. Add D and E to ABC and mix
Cosmetics by IFF) 4.0 well. Adjust the pH of the product between 5.5-6.5. Store in a cool and dry place,
E. Fragrance (parfum) 0.4 protected from direct sunlight, and shake well before use.
Procedure: Heat A and B to 70-75°C. Keep A under slow stirring for 20 min. Add
B to A. Keep under slow stirring for 5 min. Increase stirring rate to maximum
speed with a rotor stator blender (Silverson: for 2 min at 3.000 rpm). Add C and LUXURIOUS BODY WASH
homogenize for 1 min or until product is smooth and homogeneous. Cool under
strong stirring to introduce maximum air. Add D, then E. Adjust pH if necessary; (schülke inc./Ashland)
specifications: aspect = supple, bright, banana-colored emulsion; viscosity (RHEO A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w
ELV8, Spindle 4, 6 rpm, 3 min) = 55,000-65,000 mPa.s; pH = 5.5-6.0; centrifuga- B. Glycerin (Pricerine 9091, Croda) 2.00
tion (3,000 rpm, 20 min) = stable with foam on the surface due aeration of the Xanthan Gum (Keltrol CG-SFT, CP Kelco) 1.20
formula; density = 0.7-0.8. C. Water (aqua) (and) Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
(Crodasinic LS30NT, Croda) 15.00
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (and) Water (aqua)
MOISTURIZING BODY WASH (Crodateric CAB-30, Croda Europe Ltd.) 10.00
(Phoenix Chemical Inc.) Sucrose Cocoate (Crodesta SL-40, Croda Europe Ltd.) 5.00
Cocamidopropylamine Oxide (and) Water (aqua)
This clear, clean rinse conditioning and moisturizing (Incromine Oxide C, Croda) 5.00
body cleanser is DEA-, MEA-, TEA- sulfate- and Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin (and) Lycium Barbarum
nitrogen-free. (Goji) Fruit Extract (Fruitliquid Goji EC, Croda) 2.00
Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin (and) Punica Granatum
A. Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate 40.00% w/w Extract (Fruitliquid Pomegranate EC, Crodarom SAS) 2.00
Saccharide Hydrolysate 30.00 Preservatives qs
Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate 3.00 D. Tocopherol 1.00
Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate 1.50 Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin Orange) Extract (Organic
Sodium C14-18 Olefin Sulfonate 20.00 Green Mandarin Oil, Earthoil Plantations Ltd.) 1.00
PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate 1.25 Passiflora Incarnata Seed Oil (and) Passiflora Edulis
Dimethicone PEG-10 Perfluorononyl Decanoate (proposed) 0.20 Seed Oil (Crodamazon Maracuja, Croda) 0.50
B. Fragrance (parfum) 2.00 Chlorophyllin-Copper Complex 0.01
FD&C Yellow No. 5 0.06 E. Lactic Acid (Purac HiPure 90, Purac) qs
FD&C Blue No. 1 0.00
Procedure: Stir water in A with a propeller stirrer to create a vortex then add B premix.
D&C Red No. 33 (D&C Red No. 33, Lowenstein,
Once fully hydrated, add C to AB with stirring. Separately premix D and slowly
Jos. H. & Sons Inc.) 0.01 add to main batch with fast stirring. Add E and adjust pH to 5.0-5.5; properties:
C. Sodium Chloride 1.00 pH value = approx. 5.0-5.5; viscosity = 5,000 cP ± 10% (spdl 91, rpm 5, 25°C).
D. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00
Procedure: Combine A with low-speed, low shear mixing at 20–25°C until uniform.
Heat A in a hot water bath to 40–45°C while mixing with low-speed, low shear
prop type mixing. Mix until uniform. Add B individually to A at 40–45°C, with low
speed, low shear mixing. Adjust viscosity with C. Add D, if necessary.
AGELESS COMPLEX
(Sabinsa)
This formula features Sabinsa’s AgeLess Complex DCx

ingredient, with skin-whitening and collagen-building
properties.
A. Water (aqua) 90.25% w/w
Disodium EDTA 0.05
Glycerin 2.00
Carbomer 0.50
B. Aminomethyl Propanol 0.20
Water (aqua) 2.00

Advertiser Index | C&T
October 2021 | Volume 136, number 9
Acme Hardesty Co., Inc. Colonial Chemical, Inc. Lucas Meyer Cosmetics
27 31 5
sales@acme-hardesty.com info@colonialchem.com info@lucasmeyercosmetics.com
www.acme-hardesty.com www.colonialchem.com www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com
Beauty Accelerate Gattefossé USA Phoenix Chemical

53 3 C3
beautyaccelerate@allured.com
www.gattefosse.com www.phoenix-chem.com
www.beautyaccelerate.com
Grant Industries Society Of Cosmetic Chemists

Bio-Botanica, Inc. 1 63
C2 info@grantinc.com www.scconline.org
info@bio-botanica.com
www.grantinc.com
www.bio-botanica.com
Vevy Europe SpA
19
Ichimaru Pharcos Co. Ltd. info@vevy.com
Biocogent LLC 9
41 gifu@ichimaru.co.jp www.vevy.com
info@biocogent.com
www.ichimaru.co.jp
www.biocogent.com
Welch Holme & Clark Co., Inc.
40
Ikeda Corp. www.welch-holme-clark.com
Centerchem, Inc. 17
C4 info@ikeda-america.com
cosmetics@centerchem.com
www.ikeda-corp.co.jp
www.centerchem.com
CT2110_Advertiser_Index_irv.indd 64 9/15/21 3:43 PM

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Skin and Hair Cleansing

7 [video] How Fragrance Inspires

10 New Ingredients & Technologies

18 Expert Opinions: Holistic Approaches

21 From the Vault

2 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 9 | October 2021

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Formulating Marketing Specialist Bianca Esposito

54 Sustainable and Safe DESIGN

The Definitive Peer-Reviewed Cosmetic Science Resource

For Subscriptions: Subscribe online: www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/subscribe

Copyright 2021: Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited.

4 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 9 | October 2021

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ACNEBIOME™ FOR HEALTHY,

This breakthrough strategy allows acne-prone skin to recover

Patented lysine dendrimer obtained by green chemistry,

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technical talks, panel discussions and more. Shuliang Zhang, Ph.D.

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Health and ‘Smell’ness: Perfume to

C&T: How can perfumes help consumers cope with today’s

C&T: How can perfumes activate emotions and

Vol. 136, No. 9 | October 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries |7

CT2110_Industry_Insight_fcx.indd 7 9/22/21 11:35 AM

Puresterol BELSIL DADM 3240 E

Filagrinol Sensisorb CF+

8 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 9 | October 2021

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Vol. 136, No. 9 | October 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries |9

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Chromapol ColorPOP Lycoderm

Actique Hyal Matrix

10 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 9 | October 2021

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Crodarom Cider Vinegar EC

Vol. 136, No. 9 | October 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries | 11

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Seanactiv Cosphaderm Zinc Lactate natural

Reflecks MD Midnight Cherry

12 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 9 | October 2021

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T60 Integrated 360 Series

Vol. 136, No. 9 | October 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries | 13

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• This column briefly reviews evidence in the

ntegrating all senses and biology into consumers’ skin care

Reproduction in English or any other language of

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Vol. 136, No. 9 | October 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries | 15

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16 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 9 | October 2021

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Vol. 136, No. 9 | October 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries | 17