(Periplus Adventure Guides) Kal Muller - Indonesian New Guinea - West Papua - Irian Jaya-Periplus Editions (2002)
(Periplus Adventure Guides) Kal Muller - Indonesian New Guinea - West Papua - Irian Jaya-Periplus Editions (2002)
(Periplus Adventure Guides) Kal Muller - Indonesian New Guinea - West Papua - Irian Jaya-Periplus Editions (2002)
NEW GUINEA
WEST PAPUA / IRIAN JAYA
KAL MULLER
Edited by David Pickell
PERIPLUS
10 WEST PAPUA
© 2001 by Periplus Editions (HK) Ltd. The Periplus Adventure Guides Series
Fifth edition
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED BALI
Printed in Singapore EAST MALAYSIA
ISBN 962-593-768-4 and Brunei
First edition: 1990 EAST OF BALI
Second edition: 1992 From Lombok to Timor
Third edition: 1994
Fourth Edition: 1996 INDONESIAN NEW GUINEA
Publisher: Eric Oey West Papua/Irian Jaya
Fifth edition updated by Joan Suyenaga JAVA
Cartography: David Pickell & Violet Wong
KALIMANTAN
Distributors Indonesian Borneo
Asia Pacific MALUKU
Berkeley Books Pte. Ltd. Indonesian Spice Islands
5 Little Road, #08-01
Singapore 536983 SUMATRA
Tel: (65) 280-1330 SULAWESI
Fax: (65) 280-6290
WEST MALAYSIA
Indonesia and Singapore
Java Books Indonesia While we try to ensure all the information in
Jl. Kelapa Gading Kirana our guides is accurate and up-to-date, the
Blok A14 No. 17, Jakarta 14240 authors and publisher accept no liability for any
Tel: (62-21) 451-5351 inconvenience, injury or loss sustained by any
person using this book.
Fax: (62-21) 453-4987
Front cover
USA A Dani warrior.
Pages 4-5
Tuttle Publishing
A brown river near Amamapare.
Distribution Center
Pages 6-7
Airport Industrial Park, 364 Innovation Drive
Traditional dancers on Biak Island.
North Clarendon, VT 05759-9436
Frontispiece
Tel: (802) 773-8930
The mummified remains of war kain Werapak
Fax: (802) 773-6993
Elosarek in Akima Village.
CONTENTS 11
Contents
WORLD WAR II 44
PART I: Introducing West Papua MacArthur's New Guinea
Campaign
INTRODUCTION 17 MISSIONARIES 46
Bringing the Word to a
GEOGRAPHY 18
'Heathen' Land
A Vast and Rugged Island
TEMBAGAPURA 51
MAP: Geologic History of New Guinea 20
A Giant Copper Mine
FLORA AND FAUNA 21 in the Sky
A Strange Assortment WEST PAPUA TODAY 57
of Creatures Dutch New Guinea to
FEATURE: 23
Irian 'Victorious'
Birds of Paradise
PREHISTORY 26
Papuans and Austronesians
in New Guinea
MAP: Language Groups 27
BOMBERAI 95
Rock Art and
Crystal Clear Bays
—GEORGE CHALOUPKA
THE AUTHOR
Kal Muller has explored, photographed
PART V : The Asmat Region and written about Indonesia for more than
20 years. His work has appeared in
dozens of books, as well as in the pages
INTRODUCTION 145 of National Geographic, Geo and many
other magazines. Muller typically spends
THE ASMAT 146 at least half the year in Indonesia, and the
Artists and rest at his home in Mexico.
Former Head-Hunters CONTRIBUTORS
ASMAT ART 152 John Cutts arrived in West Papua in
World-Class Traditional 1954. His parents were pioneering mis-
Woodcarving sionaries in the highlands, and he grew up
with the Moni, Dani and Nduga in the
MAP: The Asmat Region 156-157 Homeyo and Hitadipa areas. His wife Joy
and two daughters, Jaime and Jenna,
AGATS 158 have also lived with the Moni for many
Rickety Capital of years. Cutts now works as a community
the Asmat Region liaison for Freeport Indonesia.
George Chaloupka works with the
VISITING THE ASMAT 162
Museum of the Northern Territory in
Through the Asmat Lands Darwin, Australia. He is an acknowledged
by Canoe expert on Australian Aboriginal and
Melanesian rock art.
+ ASMAT PRACTICALITIES 217
Kal Muller shows edition one of this book to dancers in Dukum.
MAP: Agats Town 218
Introducing
West Papua
As the 19th century wound down, only one of hunting. Fresh enemy heads were necessary
the world's great lands still remained cloaked to bring about the periodic spiritual rejuvena-
in mystery: New Guinea. Here was a place tion of the village.
where pulp writers could indulge their fits of As long ago as 1770, Captain Cook's land-
fancy, populating this great unknown island ing party was sent packing from their territo-
with strange beasts and even stranger peo- ry with volleys of arrows and frightening
ple, and no one could yet prove otherwise. bursts of lime, but the Asmat's most famous
The Baliem Valley, where agriculture had victim may have been Michael Rockefeller,
been going on for 9,000 years, and which sup- who disappeared after his boat capsized off
ported a population density of almost 1,000 the southern shore in 1961. He could just as
people per square kilometer, first felt the well have met a more prosaic death by
gaze of an outsider in 1938. drowning, however, or been devoured by a
Today hardy travelers can still get a spe- saltwater crocodile.
cial thrill pulling out a good, U.S.-produced Today, the mention of cannibalism—or rit-
flight map of West Papua (formerly Irian ual warfare in the highlands—yields embar-
Jaya) and seeing the words "Relief Data Incom- rassed smiles and s h r u g s , and it has of
plete" printed across great swaths of territory. course been banned by the government. But
West Papua's 2 million people form a there are still pockets of this great island
patchwork of ethnicities, speaking, by most where the missions and government haven't
estimates, as many as 250 distinct languages. yet reached, and no one can say what cultural
The island's great size and rugged terrain practices exist there.
have isolated them from one another for Modernization, and tourist infrastructure,
thousands of years, and each has developed a have come to West Papua, if in a much more
distinct culture and lifestyle. limited way than in western Indonesia.
The Dani of the central highlands, per- Wamena, in the heart of the Baliem Valley, is
haps the best-known of the West Papuans, live an hour-long, daily flight from Jayapura, West
in communities of tidy little thatch-and-wood Papua's bustling and modern capital on the
huts, surrounded by neatly kept gardens of North Coast. Other points, including the
sweet potato vines. The scene has reminded swamps of the South Coast, require quite a
more than one writer of the farm country of bit more patience and organization.
the American Midwest, and as such it is a The rewards of a visit to West Papua are
remarkably incongruous sight on an island manifold: snorkeling in the clear, coral-filled
otherwise unmarked by the hand of man. waters off Biak; smoking a clove cigaret and
Although the stone axe was unceremoni- cracking pandanus nuts in a warm hut in the
ously abandoned as soon as steel became highlands; or laying back in a canoe, a livid
available a few decades ago, the Dani remain sunset lighting up the sky, the only sounds
resolute in sartorial matters: penis gourds for the rhythmic strokes of the paddles and the
men, and fiber skirts for women. Even a con- sweet, mournful singing of the Asmat.
certed effort by the fledgling Indonesian gov-
ernment failed to convince Dani men that Overleaf: One of West Papua's most distinctive
pants were superior to their horim. birds, the mambruk or Victoria crowned pigeon,
If the Dani are West Papua's most famous Goura victoria. Photograph by Alain Compost
group, the Asmat of the South Coast are the Opposite: A Dani man, sitting on the straw
Island's most notorious. Historically, Asmat floor of a honai in the central highlands, plays
culture was centered around a cycle of head- a traditional mouth harp of split bamboo.
18 INTRODUCING WEST PAPUA
A Vast
ture. The crests of the main divide top 3,000
meters in many places, and a handful of rocky
peaks soar above 4,500 meters. Small perma-
and Rugged
nent snowfields and relict glaciers still grace
the highest elevations.
Towering cordillera
FLORA AND FAUNA Bintuni Bay, the South Coast, and the edge of
Cenderawasih Bay. Further inland—in the
A Strange
Lakes Plain region, and in the south—swamp
forests replace the mangroves.
Swamps to alpine meadows
exceptions, the soil is leached and barren. both places—New Guinea is typically consid-
Past 3,000 meters, the forest thins out and ered part of the Australian faunal province.
gives way to strange, prehistoric-looking tree But recently biogeographers have sug-
fern (Cyathea) savannahs. Here also are sub- gested that the Australian influence may be
alpine scrublands of rhododendrons and exaggerated. For example, the land bridge
stunted conifers. Beyond the tree line (3,900 connecting the two was always a dry savan-
meters) one finds subalpine and alpine heaths nah belt (see map page 20), which would
and swamps, then just rock, snow and ice. have been a very effective barrier to rainfor-
est species. Further, the majority of the
Unique biogeographical region amphibian species and many of the small
Sir Alfred Russel Wallace opened the world's mammals (e.g. rodents and bats) in New
eyes to West Papua's magnificent biological Guinea are Asian in origin.
diversity. Between 1854 and 1862, Wallace
Colorful avifauna
sent a total of 125,660 specimens back to
England, including a staggering 83,200 So far, biologists have identified 643 species
Coleoptera (beetles). A talented and scrupu- of birds in West Papua (712 in all of New
lously honest writer, Wallace estimates that Guinea), and there are some real gems in this
group. The Victoria crowned pigeon (Goura
spp.), the world's largest pigeon, is a brilliant
lavender with a delicate crown of feathers and
bright red eyes. Parrots, cockatoos, and
lories brighten up the forests with red, yellow,
and purple.
During his eight years in the archipelago,
Wallace spent six months in what is now West
Papua, three months on the shores of Dore
Bay and three months on Waigeo Island.
Approaching the coast for the first time,
Wallace tingled with anticipation, knowing that
"those dark forests produced the most extraor-
dinary and the most beautiful of the feathered
inhabitants of the earth"—the birds of par-
adise. (See "Birds of Paradise" opposite.)
West Papua is home to some strange birds
as well. The megapods or brush turkeys,
which bury their eggs in sand or piles of vege-
tation, are found here. Bowerbirds, industrious
creatures that decorate their large nests with
bright objects such as flowers and berries,
sometimes collecting small piles of objects of a
single color, are present here in 9 species.
One of the most famous of West Papua's
he traveled 14,000 miles within the archipel- birds is the cassowary (Casuaris spp.), a large,
ago on some 60 to 70 separate journeys. flightless bird with a nasty reputation. These
Wallace was the first to recognize the ugly customers have powerful feet ending in
marked change in faunal types as one moves large claws, powerful weapons that have dis-
east of Bali from the Asian to the Australian emboweled more than one human victim.
biological regions. The large area of biologi- They are sought by hunters everywhere they
cal overlap in between, including Sulawesi, are found, and the hair-like feathers are a com-
the Moluccas, and Nusa Tenggara, is now mon decoration on hats and other items.
called "Wallacea" in his honor.
Strange mammals
New Guinea is well on the Australian side
of Wallacea. Since the Arafura Sea is quite Marsupials dominate the list of mammals
shallow, the rising and falling of the sea indigenous to West Papua. Unlike placental
brought on by the Ice Ages have caused the
two land masses to become periodically con- Above: The magnificent riflebird, Ptiloris
nected. Because of this—and because of the magnificus. Some 36 species of birds of
existence of marsupials and monotremes in paradise are found in West Papua.
FLORA AND FAUNA 23
Paradise
ers—iridescent breastplates, shaggy
napes, fans, and strange "wires." The most
characteristic are the Paradisaea spp.,
crow-like birds, the males of which in the
Long before the world knew anything of breeding season sprout beautiful nuptial
the habits and habitats of the beautiful plumes from their sides.
birds of paradise, their feathers enhanced The greater bird of paradise {Para-
the appearance of the rich and powerful. disaea apoda) and the lesser bird of par-
Paradise bird plumes graced the head- adise (P minor) are relatively common
dresses of fierce janissaries at the 14th inhabitants of West Papua's lowland rain-
century T u r k i s h court, and were de forests, but seeing them can be difficult.
rigueur at the Nepalese court, and the Paradisaea are omnivorous, eating a vari-
courts of other colorful potentates. In the ety of insects and being especially partial
1880s, the Paris fashion world discovered
the plumes, and thousands of birds were
slaughtered to adorn capes, hats and
other accessories. The trade was banned
in 1924, but the ban has been as full of
holes as the smuggler's ocean is wide.
Malay traders called them manuk
dewata—the gods' birds. The Portuguese
called them passaros de sol, "birds of the
sun." A learned Dutchman, writing in
Latin, coined the name, avis paradiseus,
"bird of paradise."
A great body of myth has developed
around these birds, and well into the 18th
century Europeans still believed that the
birds came from Paradise. They had no
feet, and thus remained always in the air,
living on the dew of heaven and the blos-
soms of spice trees. The female, it was
believed, even laid her eggs and incubated
them on the back of the male.
In 1598 the Dutch navigator Jan van
Linschoten, wrote: "[N]o one has seen
these birds alive, for they live in the air,
always turning towards the sun and never
lighting on the earth till they die, for they to nutmeg and mahogany fruits. Groups of
have no feet or wings." Even in 1760, males display together, often in the main
Carolus Linnaeus, the famous Swedish food tree in the area, which makes for a
taxonomist, christened the largest species spectacular sight (it also makes them very
Paradisaea apoda: "footless paradise bird." vulnerable to hunters.)
All these myths were simply the result According to observations in the
of the Aru Islanders method of preserving Asmat region (on the coast near Otsjanep)
the skins: the wings and feet were cut off, the greater bird of paradise was in full
the body skinned up to the beak and the breeding plumage and displayed from
skull removed. The birds have been hunt- August to early September, for a few hours
ed for centuries with bow and arrow, and in the morning, beginning at 6:15 a.m.,
more recently, with mist nets. and again at 2:30-5:45 p.m.
Paradisaeidae comprises 42 species, 36
of which inhabit New Guinea and its Above: An Asmat hunter with two greater
neighboring islands. The family is quite birds of paradise, Paradisaea apoda.
24 INTRODUCING WEST PAPUA
distinctive animals can reach 5.2 meters, and cosmia crassides), whose size and aggressive-
weigh almost half a metric ton. The people liv- ness allow it to reverse the usual order of
ing around Sentani believe their ancestral spir- prey and preyed upon.
its live in these sawfish and refuse to eat them.
A precious environment
Lake Yamur, at the base of the Bird's Head, is
said to be one of the very few places in the New Guinea has the world's second-largest
world that one encounters freshwater sharks. rainforest (after the Amazon) and West Papua
has the largest tracts of undisturbed lowland
Birdwing butterflies
rainforest in all of Southeast Asia. These low-
The colorful princes of West Papua's insect land alluvial forests contain valuable timber
fauna are the birdwing butterflies reserves, making them a major target of the
(Ornithoptera spp.), which can be found in all logging industry.
parts of New Guinea but reach their greatest In the mid-1980s, through the efforts of
numbers and diversity in the Arfak Mountains the World Wildlife Fund, an ambitious pro-
just inland from Manokwari. These butterflies gram of conservation areas was adopted for
are covered with shimmering colors. Recently, West Papua. Today, almost 20 percent of the
a captive farming project has begun to raise province's land area is a conservation area of
these creatures for the lucrative export market one kind or another, making West Papua—at
in dried and mounted butterflies. least on paper—one of the best-protected
New Guinea probably has almost 100,000 pieces of real estate in the world.
insect species, and many of these are still Although the problems of exploitation are
undescribed. In the forests one can find great still great, West Papua's inherent ruggedness
stick insects and katydids—some of them and isolation will do a lot to insure the protec-
startlingly accurate mimics—as well as tens tion of its forests. Also, unlike, for example,
of thousands of species of beetles. Borneo, West Papua is not very rich in the
The Capricorn beetle, a tank of a creature, most valuable species of tropical hardwoods.
lays its eggs on the sago palm, and its large It is the marine areas around West Papua
larvae are prized as food by the Asmat of the that are most in danger. Great fields of the
South Coast. The sago grubs are an essential giant tridacna clams (which can grow to 1.5
feature of every ceremonial banquet. meters across and live two centuries) have
Spiders, too, are found here in great num- been stripped, the meat canned and frozen for
bers—some 800 species. These include the the Asian market, and fish-bombing has
formidable giant bird-eating spider (Seleno- destroyed nearshore reefs in many areas.
26 INTRODUCING WEST PAPUA
Papuans and
between so-called "Java Man" or Homo erec-
tus, an extinct humanoid that lived a half-mil-
lion years ago in Java (and elsewhere in the
Austronesians
world), and any of today's people.
What has been established is that 100,000
years ago humans began to fan out from
Africa, and some 30,000-40,000 years ago
The earliest tentative figure for human For many millennia after reaching the
presence in New Guinea, based by inference island, the Papuans expanded within New
on Australian paleoanthropological evidence, Guinea and to neighboring islands. Their abo-
is 60,000 years ago. But there is in fact little riginal Australian cousins adapted themselves
hard evidence arguing for a date prior to to a radically different ecology. The two gene
30,000 to 40,000 years ago. This is neverthe- pools have been isolated from one another for
less very early — fossils of modern man are at least 10,000 years, and probably longer.
found throughout the Old World only from
A linguistic Babel
about this time.
Even for the more recent dates, however, Linguistic studies show, moreover, that the
linguistic comparisons are unable to relate various Papuan groups have evolved in rela-
the distribution of contemporary languages to tive isolation from one another for many thou-
the earliest migrations, and we have no way sands of years, partly because of the island's
of knowing if there were one or many. And rugged geography but also because each
the archaeological evidence is meager. A dig group was typically in a perpetual state of
has recovered 39,000-year-old stone tools warfare with its neighbors. As a result, New
from the Huon Peninsula, but little else from Guinea, with only .01 percent of the earth's
this earliest period. population, now contains 15 percent of its
A later Papuan migration may have coin- known languages.
cided with the last glacial peak, which Estimates of the number of distinct lan-
occurred some 16,000 to 18,000 years ago. guages spoken by the 2.7 million people of
After that, as the earth's atmosphere warmed, New Guinea vary from a whopping 800 down
the seas rose as much as 6 meters above their to about 80, depending on one's definition of
present level. what constitutes a distinct language. Some
The Papuans of 18,000 years ago lived in a languages in West Papua today are spoken by
New Guinea radically different from the one just a handful of people, and the 1.6 million
we find today. Ice sheets covered 2,000 West Papuans probably speak 250 languages.
square kilometers of the island and the snow In trying to bring order to this linguistic
line stood a mere 1,100 meters above sea chaos, experts have been forced to divide West
level. (Today, there is only 6.9 square kilome- Papua's many tongues into at least four distinct
ters of glacier left.) The tree line stood at phyla or families. (Languages in a phylum
1,600 meters below the present one and tem- share less than 5 percent of their basic vocabu-
peratures averaged 7° Centigrade cooler. lary with the languages in another—and by
28 INTRODUCING WEST PAPUA
way of comparison, most of the languages of lations who then lived here. This seemingly
Europe fall into a single family, the Indo- inexorable displacement process never took
European phylum.) These are the East Bird's place in New Guinea. The Papuans were
Head phylum, the Cenderawasih Bay phylum, never displaced from New Guinea, it seems,
the West Papua phylum (which includes north because of the terrain and the existence of
Halmahera) and the Trans-New Guinea phy- stable, well-established groups of agricultural-
lum. The last is the most widespread on the ly sophisticated Papuans.
island, comprising 84 percent of Papuan speak-
The two groups intermingle
ers and 67 percent of the languages.
As the climate of New Guinea. warmed,Wc Although the Austronesians never penetra-
more ecological zones became suitable litai for trated to the interior of West Papua, they set-
human habitation. Farming may have begun tled and intermixed with Papuans along the
more than 20,000 years ago, but for most West coast and on the nearby islands, mingling
Papuans, hunting and gathering remained the their genes, but imposing their languages. At
basic source of food for many thousands of about this same time—2,000 B.C.—a major
years after. A lack of systematic archaeological expansion of the Trans-New Guinea phylum
work leaves us with hypotheses and conjec- of Papuan language speakers also occurred,
tures for the next stages of human develop- west from New Guinea to the islands of
ment, but it is likely that agriculture, based on Timor, Alor and Pantar, where they replaced
taro as the staple, was already in progress earlier West Papuan language speakers.
6,000 years ago, and there is evidence of agri- These islands had already been settled by
culture in the highlands from 9,000 years ago. Papuan speakers long before the Austro-
nesian arrival, and there were probably two
The seafaring Austronesians
phases of Papuan settlement here: a first tak-
The peoples who are known today as Malays, ing place many thousands of years earlier,
Indonesians, Filipinos and Polynesians share and a second contemporaneous with the
a common ancestry that can be traced back Austronesian arrival.
to a handful of hardy seafarers who left the The second Papuan expansion was per-
coasts of southern China some 6,000-7,000 haps due to an agricultural "revolution" that
years ago. Collectively they are known as included the domestication of pigs and tubers
Austronesians (older texts call this group in New Guinea by at least 4,000 B.C. The
"Malayo-Polynesians"). Trans-New Guinea languages, strongly influ-
The accepted wisdom had been that the enced by Austronesian loan words, also
original Austronesians moved down through expanded into the island's central highlands
mainland Southeast Asia and hence to the by about 1500 B.C., wiping out traces of earli-
islands. But contemporary linguistic evidence er diversity there.
suggests that this group underwent a gradual
A sweet potato revolution
expansion, as a result of advancements in
agriculture and sailing techniques, with The introduction of the sweet potato
Taiwan as the jumping-off point. From there {Ipomoea batatas), ranks among the most
they voyaged through the Philippines to crucial factors in New Guinea's evolution.
Indonesia and out across the vast reaches of The sweet potato is a New World plant, and it
the Pacific and Indian Oceans. was once thought to have been introduced a
The Austronesians brought with them a few centuries ago by early Portuguese and
social organization distinguished by what are Spanish navigators. Recently, however, some
called bilateral, or non-unilineal, descent— plant geneticists have said that the plant must
wherein both biological parents are recog- have arrived at a much earlier date, perhaps
nized for purposes of affiliation. This con- A.D. 500. How it could have gotten there at
trasts with the unilineal societies of New this time remains a mystery.
Guinea and Melanesia which are mostly patri- Whenever it started, the Ipomoea revolu-
lineal, wherein descent, as in European soci- tion brought high yields at healthy elevations.
eties, is recognized through the father. (Or Unlike taro, the sweet potato grows well up to
sometimes the mother, but rarely both.) 1,600 meters above sea level, allowing its cul-
Austronesian speakers appeared in the
islands of Indonesia by about 3,000 B.C. and Opposite: Women tend their sweet potatoes in
over the next two millennia, through superior the Baliem Valley. The nutritious sweet potato
technology and sheer weight of numbers, offers a high yield and grows well at high
they gradually displaced the aboriginal popu- elevations. Its introduction was a revolution.
PREHISTORY 29
tivators to settle out of the range of the malar- products ending up in China and Rome only
ial Anopheles mosquito and exploit the fertile very indirectly via the powerful maritime
soils of the Central Highlands. kingdoms of western and central Indonesia. It
The sweet potato allowed for much more is unlikely that ocean-going sailing ships from
intensive agriculture, which together with China, India and the Middle East, which
healthier conditions, resulted in relatively relied upon the seasonal monsoon winds,
higher population densities in the highlands. made regular voyages to eastern Indonesian
Crucial also was the development of a techni- waters much before about A.D. 1000.
cally brilliant system of parallel or gridiron Large, elegant bronze kettledrums pro-
irrigation ditches, which allowed for fallow vide the earliest concrete evidence of contact
times equal to that of the cropping cycle. between mainland Asia and the New Guinea
Older slash-and-burn techniques used else- area. A fragment of one of these drums, cast
where on the island require 10-20 years of by the lost wax process, has been found in
fallow time between crops, resulting in much western West Papua. These drums—or more
lower population densities. properly, metallophones, since they are more
In the southeast corner of West Papua, the gongs than drums—were produced between
Marind-Anim experienced their own agricul- about 400 B.C. and A.D. 100 in the area of
tural revolution. Beds of earth, surrounded Dongson, in what is now North Vietnam.
by drainage ditches, were here raised in the Although metals were widely worked in
swamps and planted with yam and taro alter- Southeast Asia by 1500 B.C., no earlier metal
nating with bananas, and areca and sugar artifacts have been discovered in West Papua,
palms. These efficient gardens provided food and it is thought that these drums, which
for similarly dense population settlements. have been discovered elsewhere in the archi-
pelago, were trade items brought from other
Prehistoric trade
areas of Southeast Asia.
Trade in the eastern islands of the archipel- Wet-rice agriculture, another import from
ago began long before the common era. the Asian mainland, was introduced in the
Fragrant Timorese sandalwood and Moluccan archipelago between about 1000 B.C. and 500
cloves are mentioned in early Han Chinese B.C., albeit on a small scale. Because of the
texts, and the latter have also been found in soils and climate of the island, and the local
Egyptian mummies. In early times this trade preference for tuber crops such as taro and
was undoubtedly accomplished through yams, rice culture never developed on any
many intermediaries, with east Indonesian large scale in West Paoua.
30 INTRODUCING WEST PAPUA
The Province's
prawns and shellfish. The trunk of the sago
palm provides an easily harvested staple, and
the game the necessary protein.
Diverse
Sago is collected, not farmed, and in areas
where stands of the palm are widely dis-
persed, people lead a semi-nomadic life, living
in "portable" villages. Large stands of sago
and the rich waters at the mouths of major
rivers can support populous, more or less sta-
ble villages of up to 1,000 inhabitants.
Sago collecting is the most efficient way to
Even today, members of groups unknown to obtain starch. Although the tough palm must
the outside world occasionally step out of the be chopped down, the bark removed, and the
forests of West Papua. The most populous pith tediously pounded and rinsed (the gluti-
groups of the highlands and the coasts have nous starch must be washed from the woody
become rather worldly, and their languages
and customs have been recorded by western
and Indonesian anthropologists. But a vast
area between the coasts and the mountains
remains concealed by a canopy of thick vege-
tation, and little is known even of the topogra-
phy of these areas.
As recently as 1996, two previously
unknown groups surfaced. Representatives of
the first, apparently shocked by what they
saw, disappeared again immediately. Those of
the other took the first tentative steps into the
outside world, accepting modern medicine
and steel axes. These latter tribesmen, sarto-
rially distinguished by long, quill-like orna-
ments jutting straight up from holes in their
nostrils, spoke an unknown language.
The West Papuans speak a bewildering
250 different languages. Many, perhaps most,
are barely known outside their own ranks, and
only a handful have been thoroughly studied
by ethnographers. The best known are the
Ekari of the Paniai Lakes region, one of the
first places where the Dutch colonial adminis-
tration seriously established an outpost, the
Dani of the Baliem Valley, and the Asmat of pith), sago gathering requires far fewer
the South Coast. The economies and customs man-hours than those required to grow, for
of several other groups have been systemati- example, paddy rice.
cally recorded, and at least the basics of the The long, wide swamps of the South Coast
languages of many others are known. support the Mimikans of the coastal area
Any attempt to properly describe such a south of Puncak Jaya, the Asmat of the broad
diverse group of people and cultures in such coastal plain centered around Agats, the Jaqai
a limited space is bound to fail, so we will try inland of Kimaam Island around Kepi, and the
to mention just the better-known groups, and Marind-Anim around Merauke in the far
to fit them into a classification according to southeast. Along the North Coast, the
geography and agricultural practices. Waropen groups of the coastal swamps
around the edge of Cenderawasih Bay and
People of the coastal swamps the mouth of the great Mamberamo River,
Although malarial, uncomfortably hot, and live a similar lifestyle.
often thick and impenetrable, West Papua's Of all these coastal people, the Asmat are
lowland swamps are blessed with an abun- the best known. Their fierce head-hunting
THE WEST PAPUANS 31
culture, powerful art, and the unfortunate dis- tance. Since they were intermediaries
appearance of Michael Rockefeller in the between the highland groups and the coastal
region in 1961 have succeeded in making people, some groups in this zone were impor-
them infamous. (See "The Asmat" page 146.) tant intermediaries in the trade in pigs and
Many of these coastal peoples were at cowrie shells, both, until fairly recently, serv-
least semi-nomadic, and their cultures ing as "money" in the highlands.
revolved around a ritual cycle of headhunting. In the interior of the Bird's Head, the
Nomadism and headhunting are, of course, Maibrat (or Ayamaru) and surrounding
high on the list of established governments' groups carried on a complex ritual trade
most loathed practices, and both have been involving kain timur—antique cloths from
banned and discouraged in West Papua. eastern Indonesia—which were obtained
The Mimikans, the Asmat and the Marind- from the coastal Austronesian traders in
Anim have all suffered from the loss of spirit- exchange for pigs and food from the interior.
ual life that came about with the ban on head- Every two years the Maibrat "Big Men"
hunting. None of these groups is particularly (shorthand for a kind of charismatic leader)
suited culturally to organized education, busi- organized a huge feast involving payments to
ness or any of the other limited opportunities relatives and economic transactions between
that have come to them with modernization.
The Austronesians
Some of West Papua's coastal areas have
been settled by Austronesians, and here gar-
den and tree crops replace sago as staple
foods. Particularly on the North Coast and
the neighboring islands, many ethnic groups
speak Austronesian languages that are very
different from the Papuan languages found
throughout the rest of the island.
The Austronesians have historically been
involved in trade with the sultanate of Tidore,
the Chinese, the Bugis and other groups
from islands to the west. Bird of paradise
skins and slaves were the principal exports,
along with whatever nutmeg could be taken
from the Fakfak area.
Austronesian influences can be seen in the
raja leadership system practiced among
these groups, perhaps adopted from the sul-
tanates of Ternate, Tidore and Jailolo. With
their political power cemented by control of
trade, some rajas ruled wide areas embracing
several ethnic groups, from seats of power in
the Raja Empat Islands, in the Sorong area, groups. The Maibrat believed that death and
around Fakfak or in the Kaimana region. illness were the work of ancestral spirits.
A somewhat different system was found in Good relations among the living, achieved
the Austronesian areas around Biak, Yapen, through gift-giving, were essential lest the
Wandaman Bay and east of Manokwari. Here ancestral spirits be angered.
some villagers practiced a system of heredi- The people living in West Papua's lowland
tary rule, and others were ruled by self-made, forests between the coastal swamps and the
charismatic leaders or great war heroes. highlands are the least known. Nowhere is
there a very high population density, and
The inland groups
many of these people are nomadic.
Inland from the coastal areas, in the foothills
and valleys of West Papua, scattered groups Opposite: A Biak Islander wearing a mantle of
live in small communities that subsist on cassowary feathers. The people of Biak are of
small farms, pig raising and hunting and gath- Austronesian descent Above: A Dani woman,
ering. They usually grow taro and yams, with dressed in marriage finery. The Dani, like most
sweet potatoes being of secondary impor- of West Papua's Highlanders, are Papuans.
32 INTRODUCING WEST PAPUA
The Kombai, Korowai and scattered other ods, raised mounds and irrigation canals,
groups living between the Asmat area in the attains a peak of sophistication in the Baliem
south, and the southern ranges of the Central Valley. West Papua's first highlanders relied
Highlands in the north, have proved to be on taro and yams, adapting to the subsequent
among the most resistant people on the introduction of sugar cane, bananas, and
island to the entreaties of missionaries and much later, the sweet potato.
others who would have them join the so- One sartorial trait distinguishes all of West
called modern world. One group has for Papua's highlanders: they all wear "phal-
years systematically rejected, with spears and locrypts" (penis coverings). Or at least all did,
arrows on occasion, missionaries, govern- until this striking wardrobe caught the atten-
ment workers, and even gifts of steel axes, tion of some puritanical missionaries. How-
nylon fish nets, and steel fishhooks. ever, there is less pressure on the highlanders
Cannibalism is frequently reported and to wear clothes today than there has been in
surely still practiced here. These unregener- the past, as both the Christians and the gov-
ate forest dwellers—inhabiting the area in the ernment have toned down their campaigns.
upper reaches of the Digul River watershed The well-known Dani are but one of many
and scattered other locations in the foothill highland groups living in West Papua's high-
lands. (See "The Dani," page 110.) West of
the Dani are t h e Amung, Damal and
Uhundini group, numbering about 14,000 and
sharing a language family. West of the Damal
are the Moni, numbering about 25,000. (See
"Growing up Moni," page 118). Further west,
in the vicinity of the Paniai Lakes, the west-
ernmost extent of the central mountains, are
the Ekari, numbering about 100,000.
East and south of the Dani, living in some
very rugged terrain, are the 30,000 Yali,
speaking several dialects. T h r e e related
groups live east of the Yali: the Kimyal, some
20,000 of whom live around Korupun, the
9,000 Hmanggona who live around Nalca, and
the 3,000 Mek or Eipomek who live around
the village of Eipomek.
The Western Dani
The Western Dani, sometimes called Lani,
live in the highlands from east of Ilaga to the
edge of the Grand Baliem Valley. The intro-
duction of the Irish potato, which can with-
stand frost and cold, has allowed the Western
Dani to plant up to 3,000 meters.
forests south of the central cordillera—live in The Western Dani have been responsive
tall tree houses, perhaps to escape the mos- to the efforts of missionaries and the govern-
quitos, and the men wear leaf penis wrappers. ment, and have historically been far less war-
like than their neighbors in the Baliem, as
Highland West Papuans
they farm far less fertile soil and consequent-
People have been living in West Papua's high- ly have less excess population and time to
lands for 25,000 years, and farming the rela- expend on warfare. The Baliem Dani's pro-
tively rich soils here for perhaps 9,000 years. clivity for warfare is considered to be a prod-
The altitude of the rugged mountain chain uct of the spare time resulting from good soil
produces a more temperate climate than the and sophisticated agricultural techniques.
south, and perhaps more important, is out- (For more on the Baliem Valley Dani, see
side the worst of the range of the malarial "The Dani," page 110.)
Anopheles mosquito.
The Yali
Highlanders practice pig husbandry and
sweet potato farming. Sweet potato cultiva- The Yali live in the area west of the Baliem
tion, featuring crop rotation, short fallow peri- Valley, from Pass Valley in the north to Ninia
THE WEST PAPUANS 33
in the south. There are at least three dialects the spirochete Treponema pertenue. This dis-
of the Yali language, with speakers centered figuring disease was eradicated in 1964.
around Pass Valley, Angguruk and Ninia. The Also in 1964, anthropologist Klaus
language is related to Dani, and their name Friedrich Koch arrived in Yali-mo, where he
comes from the Dani word "yali-mo," which learned the language and conducted anthro-
means: "the lands to the east." pological research that led to the book War
[Note: Many common West Papuans eth- and Peace in Jalemo. Like the Dani, the Yali
nic designations come from other groups, for are farmer-warriors, but they live in a much
the simple reason that many languages do more hostile environment. The Yali respond-
not have a term for "we" or "us" that is not ed eagerly to the mission-sponsored introduc-
non-exclusive of members of other groups, or tion of new plants such as peanuts, cabbage
that refers to a group larger than the immedi- and maize, as well as to animal husbandry—
ate political community or confederation. For placing great demands on the first imported
example, the Dani have a word for "people," stud hog.
but this is in contrast to "ghost" or "spirit," By the time Koch left the field in 1966,
and is not exclusive of any other people. The there were already six landing strips in Yali-
word "yali" has a cognate in the Yali language mo, opening this area to the outside world.
that also means "east," and the Yali will use it
to refer to people living east of their territory.
It is perhaps important to note also that this
"east" is not a compass point per se; it really
refers to a specific end of the common trade
route, which, in this case, is east. Many of the
terms coined by western anthropologists for
ethnic identifications have gained currency
among the highland West Papuans, through
the bi- or tri-lingual guides around Wamena.
For example, "koteka," an Ekari word for a
penis gourd, is universally understood in the
Baliem Valley, even though a Dani word
(horim) exists. Some people call this bahasa
baru, the "new language."]
The Yali are immediately distinguished by
their dress, which consists of a kind of tunic
constructed of numerous rattan hoops, with a
long penis gourd sticking out from under-
neath. They maintain separate men's and ritu-
al houses, which unlike Dani huts are some-
times painted with motifs reminiscent of
Asmat art. The Yali are farmers, growing
sweet potatoes and other highlands crops in
walled gardens.
The terrain of Yali-mo is formidable, In 1974, a mission station established by
which delayed the arrival of both missionar- the Netherlands Reformed Congregation was
ies and the government. Though contacted in destroyed and all their Yali helpers were
the late 1950s by the Brongersma Expedition, killed and eaten. The massacre was possibly
the first permanent outside presence was a the culmination of misunderstandings by the
Protestant mission established in the Yali-mo Nipsan people of the new cultures brought in
Valley in 1961. by the missionaries and their Yali helpers.
When the first airstrip was built at the mis- Four years later the mission renewed their
sion, one or two cowrie shells was still an efforts to set up their station. This time the
acceptable daily wage and most of the Yali Nipsan people received the mission more favor-
had only heard rumors of steel axes. The mis- ably, and there are now about 3,000 followers
sionaries traded axes to acquire land and spread over 25 congregations in the area.
pigs, introducing the metal tool's widespread
use. The Protestants began a school and Opposite: An Asmat man from Biwar Laut, on
offered medical aid including a cure for the south coast. Above: A Moni man from the
frambesia or yaws, a virulent rash caused by highlands near the Kemandoga Valley.
34 INTRODUCING WEST PAPUA
Rumors of
up a new post at Ternate, when he was driven
eastward by adverse winds. He baptized the
island Ilhas dos Papuas from the Malay orang
papuwah, meaning "frizzy haired man."
Gold and Search for the 'Isla de Oro'
After this initial forced landing, the more
found. He tried twice to return to Mexico In 1606, the last Spanish exploration of
along the equator but was turned back both New Guinea took place. Luis Vaez de Torres,
times by contrary winds. Later, the Spaniards a Portuguese in the service of Spain (as had
discovered that the only way to reach the been Magellan), sailed the length of New
Americas from Asia was to sail north to the Guinea's south coast and, in two places, land-
latitude of Japan before catching the winds ed and claimed possession for Spain. The
that would carry them east. annexation was ephemeral, but the strait
In 1537, the ever-optimistic Cortez direct- Torres discovered still bears his name. He
ed Hernando de Grijalva to discover the was first to prove that Australia was separate
island of gold. The expedition ended in disas- from New Guinea. Spain maintained the fic-
ter—not only did they find no gold, but the tion of its claim to New Guinea, based on
crew mutinied and murdered their captain. Torres' voyage, until the treaty of Utrecht in
The disintegrating ship was abandoned in 1714 formally "relinquished" the island to
Cenderawasih Bay, and the seven survivors Holland and England.
were captured and enslaved by the natives, In an era of conflicting claims, might made
becoming West Papua's first white "settlers." right. In her push for a monopoly on the spice
Years later they were ransomed by the trade in the Moluccas, Holland muscled aside
Portuguese governor of Ternate. the Spaniards, the Portuguese and, for good
In 1545, Ynigo Ortiz de Retes, another measure, her own English allies. Nor did the
Mexican-based Spanish captain, gave New Dutch neglect explorations to the east.
Guinea its name, while at the same time In 1606, the same year that Torres made
claiming it for the King of Spain. He chose his discovery, Dutch navigator Willem Jansz
the name "Nueva Guinea" either because of sailed along New Guinea's west and south
the people's resemblance to Africans, or coasts. Also looking for gold, he touched land
because of the island was on the other side of at various points, including the mouth of what
the globe from Africa. New Guinea first
appeared on Mercator's world map in 1569. Opposite and below: Luigi D'Albertis ascending
Retes' explorations dispelled the illusion the Fly River in the Neva, in 1876. D'Albertis
of easy gold for the taking, so Spain soon lost harrassed the people of the Fly by shooting off
interest in the island. (There in fact is plenty fireworks and stealing artifacts. He made few
of gold in New Guinea, but the first gold rush, friends even among his own crew, one of whom
in Laloki, near Port Moresby, did not take he beat to death in a fit of anger, but he did
place until 1878.) make it 930 kilometers upriver.
38 INTRODUCING WEST PAPUA
has since been called the Digul River. maintaining a spice monopoly in the
In 1616, two more Dutchmen, Jacob le Moluccas, West Papua was too far away for
Maire and Willem Schouten, surveyed New effective control. The great French explorer
Guinea's north coast, including the islands of Compte de Bougainville initiated a round of
Cenderawasih Bay. T h e n , in 1623, Jan expeditions to New Guinea in 1768, and the
Carstensz sighted snow-capped peaks while prince of navigators, James Cook, having
sailing along West Papua's southern coast. made a series of historic discoveries in the
His reports were ridiculed in Europe, as no Pacific, rediscovered the Torres Strait in 1770
one believed that there could be snow so near (then had a run-in with the Asmat of the
the equator (4° S). None of the doubters both- south coast). Other early sailor-geographers
ered to check with the Spaniards about the to visit New Guinea included William
Andes, and 200 years would pass before Dampier, Dumont d'Urville and two particu-
whites saw the snows of Kilimanjaro. larly bothersome (to the Dutch) Britons.
In 1775, Thomas Forrest of the British
Birds of paradise and slaves
East India Company landed at Dore Bay, near
Although West Papua harbored no gold, there present-day Manokwari. He was looking for a
were nonetheless valuable trade items ema- source of spices outside the Dutch sphere.
nating from the island, as the Dutch belatedly Forrest was told that no Dutch "burghers"
discovered. Javanese, Bugis, Bandanese and traded t h e r e — only Chinese, who easily
Seramese traders were conducting highly obtained passes from the Sultan of Tidore
profitable forays to the west coast of West and flew Dutch colors. They were trusted not
Papua. In exchange for Javanese brass gongs, to deal in spices. Forrest learned that these
Chinese porcelain, cloth and metal imple- traders brought steel tools, weapons and
ments, the traders received massoi bark (a porcelain to exchange for massoi, ambergris,
medicinal prized by the Javanese, taken orally trepang, tortoiseshell, bird of paradise skins
or as an oil smeared on the body to cure vari- and slaves.
ous illnesses, including venereal disease), an Another Briton, John McCluer, stopped on
inferior quality of nutmeg (whose export the southwest coast of West Papua in 1791.
irked the Dutch monopolists), trepang (dried His name then stuck to the gulf which he cor-
sea cucumbers, a Chinese delicacy), tortoise- rectly mapped as almost cutting off the Bird's
shell, pearls, bird of paradise skins and very Head from the body (now called Berau Bay).
valuable slaves. McCluer found some nutmeg in West Papua,
From their bases in the nutmeg islands of but of the inferior elongated variety, not the
Banda and clove-producing Ambon, the Dutch prized round type.
sent out their own trading ships but soon ran
European outposts established
afoul of the "treachery" of the West Papuans.
Not without justification, the Dutch blamed the West Papua's first European settlement was
hostile attitude of the West Papuans on the an unmitigated disaster. In 1793, Captain John
forcible capture of slaves by other traders. Hayes, an officer in the Bombay Marine (the
Muslims from Seram Laut practiced the British East India Company's navy) led an
most effective means of control of West expedition to West Papua to establish an out-
Papua's trade. A contemporary Dutch account post. Based on an account of Forrest's brief
states that the Seram Muslims married West stopover, Hayes chose Dore Bay for his set-
Papuan wives ("in which they are not very tlement, dubbed New Albion. He named his
choice," it gratuitously adds) and then instruct- little harbor Restoration Bay.
ed the children of these unions in the Muslim Hayes claimed the land for Britain, but his
faith. Through these relatives, the Seram Laut expedition was totally unofficial and was
men controlled West Papua's trade. backed with private money He found nutmeg
In 1660 the Dutch East India Company trees, dyewood and teak, and dreamed of the
recognized the Sultan of Tidore's sovereignty area being the center of a British-run spice
over "the Papuan Islands in general" while trade. His little community of 11 European
signing an "internal alliance" with the sultan. settlers and an equal number of Indians plant-
The treaty stipulated that all Europeans, ed massoi and nutmeg trees and hoped for
except the Dutch, were forbidden in the area. the best.
T h e Dutch also reinforced the brutal They built Fort Coronation to defend
Tidorese tribute-collecting flotillas to increase themselves against local hostilities and an
the sultan's authority and wealth. expected Dutch attack. The Dutch did not
While the Dutch were quite successful in need to bother—after 20 months, native
EUROPEANS 39
Mountaineers
of Dore Bay and three months on Waigeo. In
addition to a description of his biological
work, his famous work, The Malay Archipel-
ago, includes accounts of the lives and habits
The Dutch left the competition filling out Lakes which for a while bore his name.
forms and set out from West Papua's south The Dutch were now ready for Carstensz
coast in 1909. Led by Dr. H. A. Lorentz—who Toppen, named after the first white man to
proclaimed "I shall be first on the sight it and report snows in the tropics in
snow"—they eventually reached the snowline 1623. The toppen is a series of peaks, some
of Wilhelmina Top (now Trikora). Each of the ten of which are higher than 4,700 meters
82 Dayak porters was rewarded by a tattoo high. The explorers misidentified a peak
showing a snow-capped mountain and a drag- called Ngga Pulu (4,860m.) as the highest of
on, to symbolize the hardships. The British the lot, and this was their goal.
finally obtained their permits and gave chase, After Wissel's aerial reconnaissance in an
reaching an elevation of 4,532 meters before amphibian Sikorski, the expedition, led by Dr.
turning back. Neither team made the summit. A. H. Colijn, plotted a course from the south
In 1913, a group led by Dutch Captain coast. Once the party was underway, Wissel
Franssen H e r d e r s c h e e finally scaled made two supply drops by parachute then
Wilhelmina Top's 4,743 meters. The Dayak paddled upriver himself to catch up with the
porters celebrated with a snowball fight. group. On December 5th, 1936, after a four-
Carstensz Top (now Puncak Jaya), West hour climb from the base camp, they reached
Papua's highest peak, remained for some the peak. The mountaineers celebrated by
time the most obvious challenge. In 1913, devouring a tin of marzipan.
Wollaston had reached the snows of the Unfortunately, Ngga Pulu was not
Sudirman Range, but no one had yet climbed Carstensz' highest peak, and Puncak Jaya, at
the higher peaks. Prodded by rumors of yet 4,884 meters, was not scaled until 1962 by the
another British expedition in 1937, national Austrian Heinrich Harrer.
Dutch pride was aroused and an expedition
The Meervlakte
was quickly launched.
By the time an attempt was finally made While the explorations of the highlands pro-
on the Carstensz, logistics had improved con- ceeded apace, other teams made their way
siderably. The first airplane had flown out of inland from West Papua's north coast. The
Port Moresby in 1922, and in 1926, a Dutch- only logical route was up the Mamberamo
American team became the first expedition to River, navigable for over 150 kilometers.
rely on air transport, using the seaplane Em. In 1909, Captain Franssen Herderschee
In 1936, the Dutch pilot Lieutenant F. J. (who later climbed Wilhelmina) ascended the
Wissel discovered, from his plane, the Paniai short stretch of rapids through the Van Rees
EXPLORATION 43
Mountains and reached a large crescent- most fertile. Surveying the scene from his
shaped basin that he dubbed the Meervlakte, plane, Archbold described the valley's neat
or "Lake Plains." geometric gardens and irrigation ditches as
The basin is formed by the Taritatu River being "like the farming country of central
(formerly Idenburg), which flows from the Europe." He later ferried in 30 tons of supplies
Jayawijaya Range (Oranje) in the east, and and a team of 195 men, mostly West Papuan
the Tariku River (Rouffaer), coming from the porters backed up by 72 hardy Dayaks.
Sudirman Range (Nassau) in the west. The Dutch captain Teerink, one of Archbold's
two rivers unite to form the Mamberamo. team, was the first to reach the valley with a
Although several expeditions subsequent- few porters. When a fuel drop floated off on
ly also reached the Mamberamo, the upper the river, the captain sacrificed his only bottle
reaches of the Taritatu remained uncharted of gin to the generator to maintain communi-
until the 1950s. cations with the base camp. (See "Archbold
By the 1920s, monstrously large teams of Expedition," page 106.)
up to 800 men (mostly porters) headed The post-war Dutch era saw two major
inland, supplied by flying boats. They did not explorations: The Wisnumurti (Star) Range
always meet with a warm welcome from their was reached from the Sibyl Valley at the
hosts, and aviators tell of arrows bouncing off headwaters of the Digul River; and a joint
their fuselage. French-Dutch effort, led by Pierre Dominique
Gaissau, crossed the widest part of West
The Baliem Valley discovered
Papua overland. The record of this harrowing
The discovery of the Baliem Valley in 1938 by trek from the s o u t h e r n Asmat coast to
American explorer Richard Archbold was the Hollandia became a spectacular film, The Sky
grand prize of New Guinea's exploration. Above and The Mud Below, and Paris Match
Peering from a giant seaplane dubbed the photographer Tony Saulnier produced a first-
Guba, Archbold was the first white man to lay class book of still photographs.
eyes on the jewel of the highlands, a fabulous
60 by 15 kilometer valley. Opposite: Explorers of the Paniai Lakes region,
The 50,000 Dani living in the valley had at posing with Ekagi men. The explorers, left to
this time had no previous contact with the out- right: F.J. Wissel, Jean-Jacques Dozy, and Dr.
side world. A couple of Dutch expeditions had De Hartog. Above: The ice fields at Ngga Pulu,
passed close, but missed this rare pocket of once thought to be the highest of Carstenz
flat, arable land—the highlands' largest and Toppen 's many craggy tops.
44 INTRODUCING WEST PAPUA
MacArthur's
chaotic debarkation took place amidst heavy
rain and over difficult terrain. When the
beachheads were secured on April 22, 1944,
New Guinea
MacArthur and his staff celebrated by
quaffing ice cream sodas.
The next day, as a landing craft ferried the
commander-in-chief to the beach at Tanah
War correspondents, not always in awe of tough fighting was needed to secure the
the quick-tempered MacArthur, filed a story shores of Maffin Bay on the mainland near
about the general's million-dollar mansion Wakde, essential as a forward staging area.
with lavish furnishings and a custom-built The final toll here was 4,000 Japanese killed
driveway. MacArthur was furious. After the and 75 taken prisoner, with 415 U.S. casual-
Philippines had been secured, his wife decid- ties. The Tornado Task Force secured all
ed to stop at Hollandia on her way to Manila important positions, but at the end of the war
to be reunited with her husband. She wired there were still some Japanese soldiers holed
him, "I want to see that mansion you built— up in nearby Sarmi.
the one where I'm supposed to have been liv- Despite increasing Allied control of the air
ing in luxury!" and sea lanes, the Japanese tried to send
Those present did not dare record even a 20,000 troops to West Papua from China. The
censored version of MacArthur's reply. reinforcements never made it. Allied sub-
Another wartime story, probably apocryphal, marines sank four transport ships, drowning
recounts that it was while gazing out on 10,000, and the rest of the convoy fled.
island-dotted Lake Sentani that General The next Allied objective, Biak Island off
MacArthur conceived his famous island-hop- the north coast of West Papua, stopped the
ping strategy. U.S.-led blitzkrieg cold. The 10,000 Japanese
The huge airfield complex at Lake Sentani troops on Biak were well-organized and well-
was to eventually house 1,000 planes. An prepared. (See "Biak," page 64.)
almost equal number of ships ferried in The last Allied offensive in West Papua
countless tons of supplies and equipment. occurred on the northern shore of the Bird's
Humboldt Bay, with hundreds of ships linked Head. Amphibious landings at Sansapor and
by catwalks and lit up at night, was described Mar here went unopposed. These beach-
by war correspondents as "a city at sea." heads were only 150 kilometers west of
Manokwari, the headquarters of the Japanese
The north coast falls
2nd Army. Quick work by engineers soon
Because soil conditions at Sentani precluded yielded operational airfields from which the
the speedy completion of a bomber base, the next objective, Morotai Island off northern
Allies set their sights on the Japanese airfield Halmahera, could easily be reached.
on Wakde Island. After two days of bitter In just four short months, from April to
fighting, with 760 Japanese deaths against July of 1944, the whole north coast of West
40 on the Allies' side, the strip fell. More Papua had fallen to the Allies.
46 INTRODUCING WEST PAPUA
Word to a
about half of them living in the Paniai Lakes
region. The Catholics claim that 220,000 West
Papuans—about one-fifth of West Papua's
total population—practice their faith.
supplies to the highland stations. The trouble- Fearing a Catholic monopoly on educa-
makers were finally subdued—not by Dutch tion, the Protestants also agreed to partici-
rifles and m o r t a r s , but by well-aimed pate in secular educational programs spon-
Christian arrows. sored by the Dutch government. And, albeit
reluctantly, the Americans also participated in
On to the Baliem Valley
setting up a government-subsidized public
In 1955, under pressure from the influential hospital at Pyramid.
Roman Catholic political party, the Dutch par-
'Pockets of heathenism'
liament finally passed a bill allowing unrestrict-
ed activities on the part of all mission societies In the early 1960s, the pace of missionary
in West Papua. After some brief explorations activities slowed. The country was undergo-
and the establishment of a station at Hetegima ing a difficult transition from Dutch to
at the southern end of the Baliem Valley, Indonesian rule, and the frenetic pace of
Protestants began expanding into the previ- evangelical advances had left numbers of
ously off-limits Baliem at a rapid pace. unbelievers as well as "pockets of heathenism"
The mission at Pyramid, at the northwest- in the minds of the recent converts. It was
ern end of the valley was the first to be estab- time to consolidate gains.
lished. A major trade route already led here Preachers found that even well-behaved
from the Western Dani centers of Bokondini, flocks were sometimes operating with pretty
Karubaga and Mulia. Because of its strategic strange notions of Christianity. Some West
location, more missionaries were sent to Papuans believed that sitting in church would
Pyramid than anywhere else, and the mission result in immunity from sickness, and that for-
retains its importance today. getting to shut one's eyes during prayers
The western valley station at Tiom, and would lead to blindness. Missionaries respond-
one at Seinma in the Baliem Gorge area ed to these setbacks and superstitions by
south of Hetegima, were both opened in 1956, swearing to persevere against this "black
one year before the Dutch government estab- magic," which one called "Satan's counter-
lished its first outpost in the valley, at action to God's perfect will for man."
Wamena. In 1958, a year after Wamena was The Protestants, resolving their internal
established, Catholics entered the valley. difficulties, at this time planned a two-
When Dutch control came to the Valley, pronged strategy to conquer the remaining
the various Protestant sects—CAMA, the Western Dani—moving eastward from the
Australian Baptist Missionary Society, the Ilaga Valley and northwest from Pyramid.
Regions Beyond Missions Union, and the Setting aside jealousies and theological differ-
United Field Missions—joined forces for ences, the Australian Baptist Missionary
financial and logistical reasons as well as to Society joined forces with Regions Beyond
counteract the Roman Catholic presence. The Missions Union to help the United Field
Catholics' more flexible policy toward native Missions build an airstrip at Bokondini. Areas
beliefs was a sore point with more fundamen- thus opened up were divided into exclusive
talist Protestants. Said one polemicist, "the spheres of influence.
Catholics' attempts at accommodation have at From Bokondini, missionaries trekked to
times produced hybrid creeds scarcely recog- Mulia to spread the gospel to the "crazy peo-
nizable as the continuation of historic, ple"—Danis suffering from huge goiters and
Biblical Christianity." giving birth to cretins. Disease in this tragic
With the competition for souls heating up, place, the "most concentrated goiter pocket
gone were the "gentlemen's agreements" of in the world," was soon cleared up with iodine
old. But old-fashioned Protestant missionar- injections and prayers. By 1963, a conference
ies who, for example, insisted on clothing in Bokondini attracted 51 Dani church lead-
being worn in church, were also fading. ers. In the same year, Bokondini became the
Younger, more open-minded Americans who site of a teacher-training school.
had taken university courses in anthropology While the Gospel swept into Western Dani
and linguistics after their years of Bible col- areas, the Baliem Valley offered surprisingly
lege were now joining the ranks. This new stubborn resistance. Powerful war chiefs
breed of missionaries enjoined only against here resisted the new creeds, correctly view-
those practices that were in direct conflict ing them as as a direct threat to their authori-
with the Bible—killing the second twin born,
spirit worship and the execution of women Opposite: American missionary John Wilson
accused of witchcraft. poses with a Dani man at Pyramid.
MISSIONARIES 49
50 INTRODUCING WEST PAPUA
ty. A man who has more than 20 confirmed fetish-burning—killed them. In 1968, the bod-
kills to his credit isn't going to give up his ies of the two men were found riddled with
hard-won prestige to a religion that proposes arrow shafts "as thick as reeds in a swamp."
that "the meek shall inherit the earth." Many Another tale involves Dutch Reverend
leaders also objected to the secrets of salva- Gert van Enk, 31, a tall, tropics-cured veteran
tion being revealed to women—religious lore of five years' service, who has been working
had always been a male preserve. among the Korowai tribe, around the upper
There were other reasons for a slowing of Becking River, in what he calls the "hell of the
proselytization here, too. With the civil gov- south." The Dutch Reformed Church has
ernment providing medical care and newly been trying to proselytize the 3,000 Korowai
arrived merchants offering essential material for ten years and so far has not celebrated a
goods, Bible preachers lost some of their single baptism. Van Enk is not allowed into
punch. In fact, the greatest concentration of most of the tribal territory, and if caught
Dani who today refuse Christianity live in and there would be pin-cushioned with arrows.
around the administrative center of Wamena. But he has no thoughts of giving up. His
c o u n t r y m e n , he says, took c e n t u r i e s to
Life among the cannibals become Christians.
The life of a missionary in West Papua was not
Missionaries and progress
easy. (This is not to celebrate their suffering;
missionary efforts in West Papua have inflict- Although the methods and mission of Third
ed great hardships on the West Papuans.) One World evangelical Christianity are today rou-
story involves Stanley Dale, an abrasive for- tinely questioned, missionaries in West Papua
mer Australian commando, and Phil Masters, have often played a positive role in easing tra-
an American, who were dispatched to convert ditional West Papuans into the 20th century.
a group of Yali villagers in the area east of They have brought medicine, and have often
Ninia, between the Heluk and Seng Rivers. served as an important buffer between the
For a while, the Yali believed that the two government and the people.
newcomers were reincarnations of two of The sensitivity of the church to local cus-
their deceased leaders, turned white after toms is today greatly improved. Even funda-
passing through the land of the dead. But mentalist Protestants now allow worshipers
they soon realized the missionaries were ordi- into their churches wearing penis gourds, and
nary humans, and following several misguid- local West Papuans are groomed to take over
ed attempts at "reform"—including mass positions of leadership within the church.
TEMBAGAPURA 51
TEMBAGAPURA copper mines in the world, a recently discov-
ered deposit now gives the mine the single
A Giant
largest gold reserve of any mine in the world:
27 million ounces.
[Note: Visitors are not welcome at any of
Copper Mine
the Freeport installations. Only the head
office in Jakarta grants permits to tour the
areas, and these are granted for professional
reasons only]
ed the world with 3 billion pounds of copper. A melting pot of ethnic groups labors in the
The Gunung Bijih deposit, which harbored 33 mines. A Javanese welds and reshapes the
million metric tons of ore, has been exhaust- huge steel teeth of a monstrous ore crusher. A
ed, and all that remains is a pit. But three Buginese from Sulawesi checks the rollers
additional deposits have been discovered just under a long conveyor belt that brings blasted
a stone's throw from Gunung Bijih: Gunung chunks of ore to the crusher. A highland West
Bijih T i m u r (including two separate Papuan rewires a complicated fuse-box. And a
deposits), Dom (Dutch for "cathedral," a hill team of two men from Biak efficiently maneu-
of marble), and the greatest prize of all, vers a pneumatic drill at the far end of a side
Grasberg (Dutch for "grass mountain"). tunnel to prepare a section for blasting.
And the future is very bright for Freeport. Freeport employs about 6,900 people, of
As of 1991, proven reserves at the mine total whom 92 percent are Indonesians. Of these,
447 million metric tons of ore, estimated to 13 percent—about 900—are native West
yield 14 billion pounds of copper, 19 million Papuans. The company has been criticized for
ounces of gold, and 35 million ounces of sil- the relatively low number of West Papuans
ver. At current rates of extraction, this means working there, although training programs
an annual revenue of $800 million, more than are beginning to show improved results.
$1 million per day in profit. For the workers, Tembagapura is pleas-
Mining costs are relatively high at ant, but remote. As an Irish expat said: "All
Freeport, now averaging 46C per pound of you have to think about is your work—every-
saleable copper, and falling copper prices thing else is laid out for you." And very well
have at times made the mine temporarily laid out, with modern homes following the
unprofitable. But now that copper stands near gentle slope of the creek-split valley. After a
$1 per pound, the mine earns Freeport more heavy rain, and 7,600 millimeters fall each
than $1 million a day. year, 50 waterfalls spring from the tropical
vegetation or bare rock on the vertical face of
'Copper City'
Mount Zaagham.
Mine workers live in Tembagapura—"Copper Facilities at Tembagapura include schools,
City"—a company town of 8,700 people nes- tennis courts, a soccer field, a complete
tled in a 1850-meter-high valley near the ore indoor sports complex, the latest videotapes,
deposits. The setting is stunning, with the a subsidized store, clubs and bars—including
western flank of Mount Zaagham providing a the so-called "animal bar," frequented by
spectacular backdrop. workers. Hard liquor is taboo, but copious
TEMBAGAPURA 53
Ertsberg rediscovered
engineer writes, ate "anything that walks, insurmountable at the time-was transport-
creeps or crawls," including humans, which ing the huge diamond drills needed to take
they called "long pigs" and found much juici- deep samples. Even disassembled, the parts
er than pork. were too heavy for choppers in the early
It took Wilson 17 days to reach Ertsberg, 1960s, which could then lift only one passen-
scaling a sheer cliff face 600 meters high ger and 113 kilos to a height of no more than
where the tramway now smoothly ferries pas- 3,600 meters.
sengers and ore. The trek was worth it-as
Technology and politics
he chipped through the stone's oxidized layer
he saw the gleaming golden color of chal- Clouds of political instability combined with
copyrite, a sulfide of iron and copper. technical problems to block the project, as
Spending several days at the Ertsberg collect- President Sukarno began a military campaign
ing samples, Wilson also saw malachite stains to wrest West Papua from the Dutch. The pro-
on a distant cliff, part of what is now called ject was put on the back burner in the hopes
Gunung Bijih Timur ("Ore Mountain East"). that eventually the situation would change.
Wilson's initial estimates, relayed excited- After Suharto took over the reins of gov-
ly by radio, proved quite accurate: 13 million ernment, a 1967 Foreign Investment Law
tons of high grade ore lay above ground and once again encouraged investment in
14 million tons more below. But, as he Indonesia. Freeport hired Ali Budiarjo as a
describes, this was "perhaps the most consultant and things began to look up .
remote, primitive and inhospitable area in the Budiarjo was a Dutch-educated Indonesian, a
~ world." The copper was there all right; the patriot who opposed colonialism, but most
problem was getting it out. importantly, a Javanese well-connected to the
Wilson even had problems getting out Jakarta scene.
himself. Not only was he apprehensive of his Wilson and a legal advisor were among
cannibal porters, but he wore out his seventh the first foreign businessmen to be welcomed
and last pair of boots before reaching the back to the country. When they arrived at the
canoes. But he made it, bringing back several Hotel Indonesia, there were only 15 guests
hundred pounds of samples, which confirmed attended by 1,800 employees. Freeport's con-
his opinion of their high copper content. tract with the government was the first to be
Freeport needed more samples before signed under the new investment law.
investing the millions of dollars required to In 1967, the last phase of testing was car-
build the mine, however. One problem- ried out. Helicopter technology had by then
TEMBAGAPURA 55
to the port of Amamapare on the coast There high wooden crosses, all around Copper
the slurry is dried, and loaded on ore ships. Mountain. Resentment still surfaces today.
The pipeline gave engineers headaches at In the first years of the mine's operation, a
first. It repeatedly ruptured until a pump cargo cult grew up in the area. One man pro-
speed of just over 3 miles per hour, with a fair- claimed that he would be able to open the
ly wet slurry (64 to 67 percent water), was warehouse inside the mountain where the
settled on as ideal. whites and western Indonesians obtain their
There are no roads out of Amamapare. All wonderful possessions, with only a special
travel is by boat, across the ocean or up the rodent's tooth. The tooth didn't work, but this
river. Some 18 kilometers upriver, the road longing for material goods continued to brew.
begins, and here barges unload their cargo. Separatist rebels — m e m b e r s of the
Timika, where a modern airport receives Organisasi Papua Merdeka, or OPM, which
Garuda jets, is 22 kilometers from where the had been fighting against Indonesian rule
barges unload. The road then runs flat and since the 1960s — r e c r u i t e d some West
straight for 40 kilometers to the base of the Papuans near Tembagapura, including a few
mountains, past the ricefields of Javanese of the company workers. The conflict came to
transmigrants. From the base of the moun- a head in the summer of 1977, and the slurry
tain to the 2,600 meter ridge is a quick, pipeline was cut in several places, power lines
switch-back climb. Once at the top, the road were ruptured, an explosives magazine was
follows the ridge before heading through a burned and several trucks returned with
tunnel to Tembagapura—92 kilometers of arrows in their radiators.
incredible engineering. Most of the problems the company faces
On Christmas Day 1971, the first convoy today have to do with displacement, and a
of trucks arrived at Tembagapura. A year growing dependency on the mine. In its set-
later, the first shipment of copper concentrate ting, the wealth of the Freeport operations is
was already on its way to Japan. In the mean- incredible, and even the garbage produced by
time, about $200 million had been spent. Tembagapura is very attractive to the people
In March 1973, President Suharto gave of the surrounding mountains.
Tembagapura its name and officially opened Shanty towns sprang up just outside the
the operation. At the same time he ordained town border, housing at one time some 1,000
that the name of the province would hence- people. The squatters lived off Tembaga-
forth be Irian Jaya ('"Victorious Irian") instead pura's garbage, stole whenever possible and
of Irian Barat ("West Irian"), a decision which were a constant sore point with Freeport as
obliged the Freeport officials to send the ded- well as the government, which tried to con-
ication plaque back to the United States for vince them to return home or settle in the
re-engraving. transmigration site at Timika, 70 kilometers
Although the initial investment in building away in the hot lowlands. (Recently, a sudden
the mine was recovered in just three years, flood wiped out the shantytowns, and the peo-
low world copper prices kept profits to a mini- ple were relocated.)
mum until 1979. From the start of operations Freeport has regularly sponsored local
in 1973 until the end of 1980, some 521,000 development projects, but in the past has had
tons of copper concentrate were shipped out, little success. Often, the problem has been
containing 6 million ounces of silver and that the company rushes in with manpower
463,000 ounces of gold, and resulting in $772 and largess—for example, building a village
million in gross sales. with company carpenters and wood—and the
villages are left with a project that is unsuit-
Community relations problems
able, and for which they have no sense of
The West Papuans living near the mine site ownership. New programs are attempting to
were at first simply astonished by all the work more closely with each community,
activity, then began to resent the huge dispar- allowing the people to build a political consen-
ity of wealth that existed between themselves sus for the type of development they would
and the Freeport workers. At times, groups like to see. This process results in fewer of
have claimed ownership of the mine, saying the kind of flashy projects that look good in a
that their land and minerals have been unfair- corporate report, but the results are more
ly expropriated. lasting and valuable.
At one time, the West Papuans—who con-
sidered the mountain sacred—put up saleps, Opposite: The monument to West Papua's
hex sticks in the shape of crude half-meter- independence in Jakarta.
WEST PAPUA TODAY 57
WEST PAPUA TODAY original proclamation — the Republic of
Indonesia was born. The Dutch East Indies
internal politics of Holland, more than any nation viewed these Dutch activities with dis-
other factor, that led to the retention of may but at first could do little but make vocif-
Netherlands New Guinea. erous demands that Holland leave. To make
Right-wing parties at home insisted that matters worse, Dutch elections held in May
the Dutch flag remain planted in at least one of 1959 put into power the most conservative
portion of the former colony, and the pres- and uncompromising coalition since the war.
ence of oil around Sorong was most certainly
Early 1 9 6 0 s : the 'Irian problem'
a factor as well. By portraying West Papua as
an anti-communist bastion in the Pacific, the It has often been written that Sukarno
Dutch also sought and received U.S. backing. focused on the "Irian problem" to rally his
Dutch conservatives wrung support from nation behind him and draw attention away
the Labor Party to obtain the two-thirds par- from pressing domestic problems. Economic
liamentary majority needed to exclude West conditions in newly independent Indonesia
Papua from the Transfer of Sovereignty. were troubling, and it was only on the
Australia, also headed at this time by a coali- strength of Sukarno's personal charisma and
tion of conservatives, supported Holland. In oratory that he was able to maintain the deli-
1952, the Dutch parliament even amended cate balancing act that kept the Army, the
the constitution to incorporate West New Muslims and the Communists in check. But
Guinea (as well as Surinam and the Antilles) regardless of his motives, Indonesians were
into the Kingdom of the Netherlands. very much behind him on the Irian issue.
While the young Indonesian nation strug- Sukarno at first tried to work within the
gled to consolidate its scattered islands and United Nations to resolve the Irian question
peoples, the Dutch tried to make up for their by diplomatic means. His appeal failed, in
years of neglect of West Papua. In the 1930s, part because Indonesia was receiving Soviet
200 Europeans lived in West Papua. In 1949, military aid and the growing strength of the
following Indonesian independence, this figure Indonesian communist party scared off
leaped to 8,500—including thousands of potential western allies. When the United
Eurasians who fled here, worried about retribu- Nations rejected Sukarno's demands, he
tion in the young and still volatile Republic. A pulled out of the body and nationalized all
Dutch exodus from the rest of the archipelago remaining Dutch-owned businesses.
also swelled West Papua's expatriate popula- Failed diplomacy left only one option—the
tion. Newcomers settled in areas around Mano- military. Organized by General Suharto, who
kwari, Sorong and, particularly, Hollandia. was given widespread powers as major-gener-
Before the war, Dutch posts along the al early in 1962, Indonesia began a campaign
coast were widely scattered and controlled lit- to infiltrate 1,500 troops into West Papua in
tle beyond their immediate vicinity, and the order to spur the villagers to rebellion. The
only inland post was one at the Wissel campaign was a resounding failure, but it
(Paniai) Lakes, established in 1938. This situ- showed Indonesia's determination.
ation quickly changed after 1949. During the While sporadic fighting continued,
1950s the Dutch set up a number of new cen- Indonesia kept up the diplomatic pressure.
ters in the highlands, and began to take oil The key to her eventual success was the
out of the Sorong area, nutmeg and mace United States. Fearing that a protracted mili-
from Fakfak, crocodile skins and copra from tary action against the Dutch would draw
Merauke, and copra from the Raja Empat Indonesia even further into the Soviet fold,
Islands and the Bird's Head. A new sawmill at the Americans finally decided to support
Manokwari began to exploit West Papua's Indonesia in its claim to West Papua.
huge forest reserves. The lion's share of
exports headed to Holland and Singapore. The 'Act of Free Choice'
But the cash inflow from exports was Soon, Holland saw her only alternatives as an
dwarfed by Holland's massive subsidies to escalating war without U.S. or European sup-
West Papua. While as late as 1957 less than a port, or relinquishment of West New Guinea.
quarter of West Papua's population fell under Following mediation talks in the United
any sort of administrative control, by 1961 the States, the so-called New York Agreement of
total had risen to two thirds, with 52 percent 1962 provided for a U.N. transition team to
of government positions (mainly at the lower
levels, of course) filled by Papuans and Opposite: Regular air services are an import-
Melanesians. ant part of West Papua's modernization. This
President Sukarno and the Indonesian Merpati Twin-Otter is at the Karubaga Airstrip.
WEST PAPUA TODAY 59
administer West New Guinea in preparation of their position in West Papua fading, they
for an eventual plebiscite, the "Act of Free quickly set up elected councils and other trap-
Choice." In 1963 the U.N. handed the territo- pings of self-rule—with the full knowledge that
ry over to the Indonesians, and it became Indonesian rule was inevitable, and perhaps
Irian Barat (West Irian). even desirable. Today, military commanders
In 1969, instead of a referendum, the are still reluctant to open certain areas of West
Indonesian government chose some 1,000 Papua to tourism because of OPM activity.
representatives who eventually voted unani- One of the most controversial of
mously to join the republic, and in August of Indonesia's West Papuan policies has been its
1969, Irian Barat formally joined Indonesia. In transmigration program, begun in the 1960s,
1973, President Suharto officially renamed wherein the government has been relocating
the province: Irian Jaya, or "Victorious Irian." people from overpopulated Java to Sumatra,
The methods chosen by the Indonesian gov- Kalimantan (Borneo), Sulawesi (Celebes)
ernment have been often criticized, but con- and West Papua.
sidering the state of affairs in West Papua at Initially, transmigration encountered some
the time, it would have been difficult to problems, such as relocating Javanese rice
administer a true plebiscite. farmers on land that was used as a hunting
T h e Indonesianization of West New and gathering ground by the local population.
Guinea did not progress smoothly. In 1967, Moreover, the land was often not even fertile
aircraft were used against Arfak tribesmen enough to grow rice. The government now
near Manokwari and rebellions broke out on takes traditional land rights into account
Biak and around Enarotali, near the Paniai when settling transmigrants, and the sites are
Lakes. And a number of early Indonesian gov- chosen with greater care. It has also dramati-
ernment policies were misguided—such as cally scaled down the program.
Operasi Koteka, designed to get the high- A more recent and encouraging change,
landers to quit wearing their penis sheaths. initiated in early 2000 by the new government
Dissatisfaction led to local unrest, and in of President Wahid, has been to change the
areas an independence movement arose: the name of Irian Jaya to West Papua.
Organisasi Papua Merdeka ("Free Papua While most of West Papua's infrastructure
Movement"). The OPM was formed as the is lacking, there are several areas in this
result of blunt actions by the government and province with more than adequate facilities,
unrealistic expectations of self-rule, fanned by including accommodations and transporta-
the Dutch. When the Dutch saw the tenability tion, and basic tourism infrastructure.
vzzm*
PART II
Biak and
the North
ayapura, on the north coast of West Papua, Today, it is a thriving city of 170,000 with,
ind the large islands north of Cenderawasih in addition to West Papuans, a mixed popula-
3ay are the easiest parts of West Papua to tion of Javanese, Makassarese and Bugis
dsit, with well-developed communications Muslims, as well as many Ambonese and
md transportation networks, and plenty of Manadonese Christians. Jayapura is one of the
lotels and restaurants to choose from. few places in West Papua with paved roads
Biak, formerly the first Indonesian stop and public transportation—including private
or travelers flying Garuda Indonesia from taxis—and travel around the area is easy.
he United States, was for most a groggy The Cenderawasih University Museum,
efueling break on the way to Bali or Java. in nearby Abepura, has a fine collection of
3ut Biak, and neighboring Supiori, Numfor artifacts from West Papua, and another near-
md Yapen Islands, are charming places to by museum, the Negeri, displays objects of
dsit in their own right. material culture from West Papua's various
Biak is the best-known of the former ethnic groups. A visit to these two museums
ichouten Islands, and the most populated. is a good way to get some background before
rhe town has some lively markets, and an heading to the highlands or the south coast.
nteresting harbor. Inland, one can visit the From Jayapura, a short hop to Yotefa Bay
;erie caves where Japanese soldiers hid dur- offers the spectacle of scattered World War II
ag World War II, and a small museum full of relics—half-sunken ships, beached tanks and
elics. Further out from the town, one encoun- landing craft. Or your boatman can take you
ers beautiful waterfalls and reefs. to nearby fishing villages that consist of huts
The Padaido Islands, which dot the sea mounted on a forest of stilts. At high tide, the
ioutheast of Biak, are ringed with coral and water reaches a meter-and-a-half beneath the
>ffer fine snorkeling in perhaps the richest village; at low tide, a wide expanse of mud flats
md most unspoiled reefs in all of Indonesia. is revealed, which, in at least one area,
For secluded beaches and near-shore becomes a makeshift soccer field.
morkeling, head to nearby Numfor, a beauti- Nearby Lake Sentani, dotted with islands
ul and lightly populated island. Thickly offers a stunning panorama of velvet-green hills
orested Yapen looms just across the water easing their way into the lake. A meal of crispy
;outh of Biak. If the weather is good, one can lake fish and even water-skiing are possible here.
;ee it clearly from the Biak harbor. The Drop by the World W i l d l i f e F u n d
sland's forests host the beautiful birds of par- (WWF) Jayapura office in Angkasa for infor-
idise, and the shores have numerous sandy mation and maps on visiting any of the more
:oves fine for swimming and snorkeling. than 50 conservation areas in West Papua,
Jayapura, West Papua's capital and and to the P r o v i n c i a l D e p a r t m e n t of
argest city, began its life as a Dutch port and F o r e s t r y (KSDA) in Kotaraja for the
idministrative center. The city was placed required permits to visit restricted areas.
iere to mark the border with the German
:olony just a stone's throw away, and one can Overleaf: The popular "Base G" beach, just
ee into Papua New Guinea from the hills north of Jayapura, takes its name from a
lorth of town. For many years, Hollandia was World War II Allied base. Although deserted
. small, backwater town, but it suddenly here, it is a very popular site with Jayapurans
saped onto the world stage during World War on weekends. Opposite: A dancer from the
I as a staging point for General MacArthur's island of Numfor, a short hop from Biak.
5
acific island hopping campaign. Numfor is a beautiful, and rarely visited island.
64 BIAK AND THE NORTH
Strategic
ing from Sorendidori Bay in the south to
Sorendiweri Bay in the north. Just 100 kilome-
ters west of Supiori is small Numfor Island.
Island to West
Geologically, all these islands consist of
uplifted coral limestone, with coastlines often
ending in impressive cliffs as much as 60
meters from the waves below. The heavy rain-
Papua's North fall has eroded the soft limestone into caves,
which on Biak Island in particular played a
historic role in World War II as a hideout for
Japanese soldiers. Inland, the terrain is gen-
When Biak served as a major air stopover on erally flat, with occasional low hills, except in
Garuda Airlines' flight to and from the United the northern part of Biak and in Supiori.
States, most passengers didn't even bother to Bonsupiori, the highest hill in the district,
disembark. This is a shame, because although reaches 1,034 meters in southern Supiori.
Biak is not really developed for tourism, the Biak, Supiori, Numfor, and the Padaido
island is rich in history and natural beauty. islands form one of nine administrative dis-
Biak islanders are Melanesians, ethnically tricts in West Papua. (Yapen is part of the
and culturally distinct from the majority of Yapen-Waropen area, which includes Yapen
"mainland" West Papuans. Unlike other parts and the coastal Waropen area on West
of West Papua, like the Baliem Valley, the tradi- Papua proper.)
tional culture here has for the most part been The total population of the Biak area is a
wiped out by missionaries, and today everyone bit over 102,000, with about half of these liv-
routinely dresses in western clothes. ing in Biak town and the surrounding area.
But elements of the old lifestyle remain. Recent transmigrants, mostly Muslims from
Traditional drumming and dances, and fire- Java or Sulawesi and Christians from Ambon
walking displays, still take place—although and Manado, have swelled the population of
today these activities are not common, and Biak town to an estimated 55,000. The island
must be arranged specially for visitors. of Biak has 85,000 inhabitants; Supiori has
The bride price, still widely used on Biak, 10,000 and Numfor 7,500. Eighty-five percent
consists of antique porcelain plates, silver are P r o t e s t a n t Christians. T h e area's
bracelets made from old Dutch or American Catholics (2,000) and Muslims (10,700) live
coins, and cash money. The average value is chiefly in Biak town.
currently $350. The wedding feasts, where Biak's economy looks to both the land and
this exchange is made, are often lavish affairs. the sea. Taro is the staple crop, and manioc,
Other rites of passage—such as a child's first sweet potatoes, soybeans and green vegeta-
haircut—are also honored. Magic still plays a bles are also grown. Copra, dried coconut
role in Biak, particularly in attracting abun- meat, has long been the principal cash crop.
dant catches of fish. Cacao, cloves and coffee are being developed.
During World War II, in fact, tiny Biak Most gardens and plantations are located
loomed large on the world map. After the war, inland, behind the narrow coastal range.
the Dutch took over the American airfields and Chickens, and a few head of cattle and goats
docks and, during the 1960s, the Indonesian have been recently introduced to supplement
government followed suit. Today Biak is the the native pigs. Despite this diversity of live-
hub of development with Hotel Biak Beach. stock, most Biak islanders still get their pro-
tein from the seas.
Geography and economy
During the past few years, Biak's economy
Boot-shaped Biak Island, covering 1,834 has boomed thanks to timber and tuna fish-
square kilometers, extends 50 kilometers ing. A large sawmill, supplied with lumber
northwest to southeast, and averages 18 kilo- from the north coast of West Papua, churns
meters wide. The northernmost shore reach- out plywood. Large-scale cutting operations
es within 60 kilometers of the equator, and are also p r o c e e d i n g on Biak itself.
the middle of the island lies at 1° south. The Commercial tuna fishing, started by the
weather on Biak Island is hot and humid,
sometimes uncomfortably so. Opposite: Boys paddle their small outrigger in a
Supiori Island, northwest of Biak, is very lagoon near Korem, in northern Biak.
BIAK 65
French and now run by Americans, is carried ken here are found as far away as Halmahera.
out by the Indonesian Van Camp Seafood [Note: The name "Irian" is itself a Biak
Company. This operation produces up to word, coined by Biak islander Frans Kaisiepo,
50,000 tons of locally canned tuna for export, a representative at the Malino conference in
along with frozen fish. Two other fleets of 1946. "Irian" originally referred not to all of
trawlers bring back to Biak chilled, sashimi- western New Guinea, but only the part near-
grade tuna. est Biak, now the Waropen area. The rough
Other sea products exported from Biak sense of the word was "hot climate."]
include trepang (dried sea cucumber) and Biak's ancient animist religion empha-
sharks' fins, which end up in the Hong Kong sized the spiritual importance of ancestors,
and Taiwan markets. who were considered to be mediators of the
The recent introduction of seaweed culti- wishes of nanggi, the central power of the uni-
vation has given the economy of several verse. In times of scarcity, a ritual called fan
coastal villages a welcome boost, and is also nanggi ("feeding the sky") was performed
beginning to displace fish bombing and other with offerings that the ancestral spirits car-
damaging ways of exploiting the island's ried upward to the heavens, where they
coastal waters. The seaweed (Euckeuma spp.) interceded on behalf of their descendants.
is grown on rafts criss-crossed with ropes in Some villages still maintain committees to
the quiet, sunlit shallows. After being harvest- record family genealogies.
ed and dried, the seaweed is shipped off to Evidence of traditional beliefs can be found
Java and then Holland where it is processed in the beautiful ancestral sculptures called
into carrageenan. This valuable material is korwar. These small figures, vessels contain-
used in a variety of products such as cosmet- ing the spiritual power of the deceased, were a
ics, toothpaste, pie-filling, ice cream and tradition found in Biak, Yapen and the Raja
cheese. Depending on quality, the raw sea- Empat islands. Before any important occa-
weed can fetch $500 a ton in Surabaya. sion, such as a war expedition or a fishing trip,
rn £^_ , an oracle would go into a trance to consult the
The power of the ancestors , ^ . «, ,« r t •, .
^ korwar. Typically, the figures were asked to
Biak islanders are a seafaring people, and keep away storms, bring favorable winds and
even a few decades ago the men's houses in protect the warriors or sailors against illness
Biak were topped by boat-shaped roofs, and and evil spirits. Korwar became prized items
the bones of the dead were stored in boat- in the collections of French surrealists Andre
shaped coffins. Languages related to that spo- I Breton and Paul Eluard.
66 BIAK AND THE NORTH
Unfortunately, few of these sculptures Biak warriors, who fought under his banner
escaped missionary burnings. Missionaries for 25 years. By 1861, the power of Tidore had
enjoyed some success in Biak in the early waned, and the hongi ended.
1910s, shortly before the establishment of a In the course of their many wide-ranging
Dutch outpost here, but an outbreak of small- trade and raiding expeditions, the men oj
pox wiped out their achievement. The disease Biak acquired techniques for forging metal,
was blamed on the ancestors' wrath at the With iron from Halmahera and Gebe (which
people of Biak for abandoning their tradi- have myths and languages similar to those ot
tions. Despite this setback, the missionaries Biak), metal implements were forged b^
returned in 1929 and succeeded in destroying shaman-smiths, who labored under the influ-
most of the physical manifestations of Biak's ence of supernatural power and knowledge,
animist religion. Metalwork, as well as trade, was under the
The Biak islanders are excellent sailors control of the noble caste, the manseren, who
and traders, and have long maintained con- sat on top of a social pyramid composed ot
tacts with West Papua and other Indonesian commoners and slaves.
islands to the west. A war-loving people, they
Men of the cloth
staged raids far into the Moluccas, even
reaching Sulawesi and Java in their search for Missionaries began their labors on Biak after
women, slaves and goods for ceremonial a Dutch government post was established in
e x c h a n g e s . T h e s e exchanges, the most Manokwari in 1898. The first Protestant mis-
important of which was the bride price, sion, on Supiori, was followed by a second at
required goods of foreign origin, which could Bosnik, on Biak, in 1912. The Biak mission
only be acquired by trading or raids. Today, lasted just two years before a smallpox epi-
as a result, the people of Biak share blood- demic allowed the ancestral spirits to reestab-
lines with peoples of Seram, Ambon, the lish their spiritual authority.
Sangihe Islands, the Kei Islands and Alor. This victory was, alas, temporary. The
indigenous traditions of Biak, of which war-
The Sultan of Tidore
fare was an essential element, were dealt a
The closest "foreign relations" were with the death blow in 1915. In that year Dutch forces
spice island of Tidore. Gurabesi, a historical under Lieutenant Feuilletau de Bruyn "paci-
hero from Biak, was supposed to have won fied" the other islands of Cenderawasih Bay
the hand of a princess of Tidore, the daughter Fighting and head-hunting were banned, and
of Sultan Jamaludin. As part of the bride the old system was left impotent, laying the
price, a light tribute had to be taken yearly groundwork for conversion to Christianity.
from Biak to Tidore. In return, the aristocrats Missionaries began proselytizing in earnest
of Biak received prestigious titles from the during the 1920s, picking up where they had
rulers of Tidore. left off in Bosnik.
The nobles who bore the tribute each year As in other areas of Indonesia where the
were also granted the privilege of touching the Protestants followed pacification programs,
Sultan's big toe—this charged the supplicants Christianity brought with it a program oi
with magic power, most useful in impressing western education. The schools of Biak have
the less fortunate classes back in Biak. furnished many of West Papua's civil servants
Gurabesi and his Tidorese wife were the prog- and their numbers are disproportionate to
enitors of Biak's leading clan, as well as the their population—a product of the education-
forebears of the rulers of the Raja Empat al head start they receive in their overcrowd-
Islands west of West Papua's Bird's Head. ed and not particularly fertile island.
Tidore's domination of Biak—as well as of
World War II on Biak
other areas of West Papua—was reinforced by
periodic hongi expeditions of war canoes. The The Japanese defense of Biak was, in the
purpose of these raids was the collection of words of Lieutenant General Eichelberger,
tribute, but they included thievery, pillage and "based on brilliant appreciation and use of the
rape as a matter of course, all made possible terrain." The commander of the Allied
by firearms that the Sultan had obtained from Hurricane Task Force described the defenses
Europeans. But internal strife and predatory of his enemy:
expeditions between Biak and West Papua
were far worse than the Tidorese hongi In the Opposite: Dancers on the island of Biak. The
late 18th century, Prince Nuku, dispossessed drums, with elaborately carved handles, are
pretender to the Tidorese throne, recruited unique to the island.
BIAK 67
"A few aerial vertical photographs failed to brought in 1,000 more men from Manokwari.
show the terrain features dictating the enemy The situation was critical until Allied rein-
defenses: the network of caves. Within the forcements arrived. Even then, the fighting
terraces and cliffs are countless caves, many was tough. U.S. infantry units were bogged
of which are connected and interconnected down, suffering from extremely unfriendly
by fissures and tunnels. Stalactites and stalag- terrain, intense heat and a scarcity of water. A
mites add to the near impregnability of the new form of warfare was encountered that
caves as defensive positions, making the bat- required novel tactics and all available
tlefields of Biak a military nightmare." weapons, including flame-throwers. One
"The Japanese were free to choose product of American ingenuity was employed
the location of their position at will. During with deadly effectiveness: a cocktail of TNT
the night the enemy came out of their cave and aviation fuel poured into the caves.
positions and made a series of harassing The immediate Allied objectives were the
attacks. Mountain guns and mortars were three airfields at Mokmer (one of which
brought out from the caves. Before morning would later become today's Frans Kaisiepo
they were returned to the caves, which caves, Airport), Borokoe and Sorida.
the infantrymen did not know. A form of Effective resistance on Biak was over-
warfare was encountered that required come by June 21, 1944. The final toll was 400
experimentation, trial and error, and all of our U.S. soldiers killed and 7,400 Japanese, many
available weapons before the mission could of whom committed ritual suicide when they
be accomplished." realized their situation was hopeless. Only
Initial Japanese opposition at the landing 220 Japanese surrendered or were captured.
site of Bosnik, 16 kilometers from the air- The Allies quickly developed the captured
fields, was slight—but this, it turned out, was airfields for their own use. An important
a ploy. Japanese Colonel Naoyuki Kuzume heavy bomber base was constructed on Biak,
had purposely withheld his main forces until and fighters and medium-sized bombers were
the U.S. troops had advanced to the rugged stationed in Wakde, Numfor and at Sansapor
terrain beyond the beaches. Then, from the on the northwestern tip of West Papua. From
dominating cliffs and caves overlooking the these bases, the Far Eastern Air Force was to
moving Allied columns, the Japanese launched strike for the next weeks at Japanese posi-
a savage counter-attack and succeeded in dri- tions in Seram, Sulawesi, Halmahera,
ving a wedge between the beach-head and Kalimantan, Java and the Palaus, in prepara-
the invading forces. That night, the Japanese tion for the assault against the Philippines.
68 BIAK AND THE NORTH
Caves, Fine
es several dozen West Papuan species in two
wire mesh aviaries. On our visit we saw a sin-
gle pair of lesser birds of paradise (and the
Beaches and
male was not in his breeding plumage), but
there were still plenty of interesting birds:
cassowaries, a pair of hornbills, crown
pigeons, cockatoos, parrots, lories, and a vari-
ful islands that rarely, if ever, see visitors. The The Japanese caves
diving off the easternmost islands of Padaido
Atas—Runi, Nukori, Workbondi—is said to Heading north from Biak town, just outside
be excellent (according to divers working for the urban area, a turnoff leads to the Goa
Jacques Cousteau). Binsari. This complex of caves was employed
The Padaido Bawah islands were of cru- by Japanese personnel as hideouts during
cial importance during World War II. Five World War II.
landing strips were laid down on Owi and a Before reaching the cave proper, you will
submarine base was also constructed off encounter a circular building housing a small
Nusi. The islands are all low-lying, with museum of World War II memorabilia. One
shores of white sand or raised coral. Huts line side is for Allied relics, the other for
the larger islands. Men in tiny outrigger Japanese. The exhibit features a rusted-out
canoes, with patched-up sails, cane be seen jeep mounting a 50-caliber machine gun,
fishing with hook and line. some artillery shells, bombs, and lots of odds
One of the nicest spots for snorkeling is and ends, including disintegrating army-issue
off two tiny islands—really just sandbars—off footwear. In front of the museum, a fuel cell
the western shore of Nusi Island. The seas from an airplane juts up over what is said to
around these islands, Urip and Mansurbabo, be a Japanese skull and a few bones: a tempo-
harbor a wide, shallow reef. In addition to lots rary monument until a more fitting one can
of bright reef fish, we saw lobsters, a couple be erected. More items are scheduled to be
of small reef sharks, blue-spotted rays, a brought to the museum.
moray eel and a seasnake. The caves themselves are found past the
While you are swimming and snorkeling, museum. The first thing that catches one's
your boatman will probably be fishing. With a eye is a huge pit, overgrown with giant fig
bit of luck, a delicious grilled fish dinner will trees and creepers. This is where an
await you. However, if your boatman was American bomb landed directly on the cave.
unsuccessful, you can always buy fish from Down a stairway and along a moss-covered
one of the little outriggers. passageway, one can walk to either of the two
Most of the boats to the Padaidos have a original openings to the caves. Further explo-
little shelter amidships, but don't forget to ration after this point or in any of the many
bring a hat, sunscreen, and a long-sleeved other cave labyrinths of Biak requires a trust-
shirt and long pants. Also, don't forget plenty worthy flashlight, a good guide and quite a
of drinking water, and fruit and snacks. bit of bravery.
VISITING BIAK 71
Other than a few bits of rusting metal, I but it is much easier to see in Adoki, a village
nothing remains in these caves. The useable at the end of a paved road some 11 kilometers
metal has been carted away as scrap, and the west of Biak town. There is also a fine swim-
bodies of the dead have been laid to rest. The ming beach just before the village entrance.
Americans took away their dead during and While the four families whose members
after the war, and the Japanese came in the can walk on the burning stones had not tried
late 1960s to cremate the remains of their it since the early 1930s, at our prodding a cou-
countrymen. A simple monument has been pie of men gave it a go in 1990, just to show
erected on top of the cave to the Japanese sol- that their art was not lost.
diers who died here. Some of the soldiers' rel- Kindling and logs were laid down and
atives come once a year, to pray at the cave's coral rocks piled on top. The pyre burned for
entrance and at the statue of the Goddess of about an hour, until the coral rocks were blaz-
Mercy, which stands in front of Hotel Irian. ing hot. Attendants removed any remaining
Quite near the Goa Binsari cave is a strate- smoldering wood and, using long sticks,
gic promontory that overlooks the airport, pushed and pulled the heated stones into a
The Japanese bunkers, which blend into the flat bed of glowing rocks. Waves of heat rose
landscape, and heavy shore batteries—made from the surface.
in Germany—attest to the tactical importance The two men stood at the edge, prayed,
of this location. On a clear day, one can see as then rubbed a bit of saliva on their soles. The
far as the island of Yapen, about 60 kilometers oldest man started first, a bent-over octoge-
away. Before leaving the area, ask to see the narian with a sense of humor. Full of confi-
anti-aircraft gun which, still in good shape, dence, he strode over the stones but about
stands mute behind a nearby house. halfway across he started hopping and cov-
F. --. ered the remaining distance in record time,
w
8 shouting that fire-walking was a dangerous
This ancient custom, forbidden by the Dutch, business. Someone cracked a joke: the old
was associated with traditional events such as man must have been fooling around with a
weddings and feast given by powerful lead-
ers. Men accused of adultery or corrupting Opposite: The cave at Goa Binsari, used by the
unmarried girls could prove their innocence Japanese in their World War II defenses.
by walking over the hot stones. Below: Fire-walking in Adoki village. The
Fire-walking is once more allowed. Some tradition had died out since being banned in
north coast villages occasionally perform it, I Dutch times, but it is now making a comeback.
72 BIAK AND THE NORTH
girl. Everyone laughed except the chap with It's well worth the effort to travel to the
the singed feet, who was rubbing betel juice west beyond Korem. Starting on the other
on his soles to relieve the pain. side of the river, the paved road follows the
His partner, evidently a more moral man, palm-fringed shoreline past bays, coves, inlets,
walked across the scorching stones several stretches of white sand beach and raised
times and experienced no problems at all. coral. Bridges cross clear streams where
In spite of the burned feet, the people of locals bathe or wash laundry.
Adoki village said that they would repeat the About five kilometers before the village of
fire-walking with more participants, including Warsa, a waterfall cascades down a moun-
women and children of ten years of age. tainside several kilometers away. At Warsa,
Perhaps next time they may follow the old rit- another waterfall tumbles some 15 meters,
ual with a feast of pork and manioc. just by the main road. Children gleefully jump
or dive off the top to entertain visitors.
Korem and the north coast
Although some houses have corrugated roofs
On the main road heading north out of Biak and sawn timber walls, most of the beachside
town, villages and gardens set among low houses remain traditional: thatch roof, walls
hills alternate with low vegetation. The of gaba-gaba (the central spine of the sago
asphalt greets the north coast at Korem, a palm leaf) with open porch, all raised on
nondescript little town on a wide, curving bay. wooden piles a meter or so above the sand.
Heavy breakers crash ashore during the west And the people can always find a fresh
monsoon. At the eastern edge of the bay, an coconut for a thirsty traveler.
incredibly clear creek provides swimming The economy and subsistence of this
and fishing for happy little boys. The western stretch of the coast, as with much of the rest
end of the bay receives a wide, sluggish river of Biak, center around fishing and small-scale
which can be crossed by canoe. agriculture. Garden plots in generally poor
A paved bridge now spans the narrow soils, prepared by the slash-and-burn tech-
channel separating Biak and Supiori and nique, yield tubers and vegetables. Coconuts
reaches Yenggarbun on the north coast of the are home-processed into copra and oil. Sago
island. Plans are to continue west to reach tree trunks provide edible starch. Occasional
Wapur, reputed to be the best in the area for hunting of wild pigs with dogs and spears
swimming and snorkeling. A southbound provides protein. (Domestic pigs are killed
stretch to Yemdoker, then on to Korido, is only for festivals.) Pigs and other game are
currently under construction. also caught in traps set in the jungle.
VISITING BIAK a %#
Tiny fish are hunted in tidal pools with hills of Supiori are often shrouded in grey and
mini-bows and arrows, while lines trolled black clouds, forming an impressive back-
from outriggers land sharks up to 1.5 meters. drop to the sunny coast. The shallow reef
Dried shark's fin fetches up to $18 a kilo. If approach to Sowek spreads long and wide,
you are traveling along this stretch in jutting a long ways into the sea before drop-
December, ask about a special rite performed ping off. The transparent waters provide
prior to setting out to catch flying fish. ample work for local fishermen.
Wednesdays and Saturdays—market days As you approach the entrance to Sowek
in Korem—are best for travel along Biak's through the open reef, a tree-crowned island
northwest coast. Public minibuses between with a spit of white sand beach could be a
Biak town and Korem are more frequent good spot for swimming and a picnic. Most of
then. Korem functions as one of the district's Sowek's houses are perched on stilts, lining
three secondary markets (the other two are the bay's inner shore. Seldom visited by out-
Wardo and Bosnik) and transportation hubs. siders, the people are friendly and helpful.
All villagers on Biak's and Supiori's north The camat (head) of the south Supiori
coasts trade at Korem unless they are willing subdistrict lives in Sowek. A wide coral bed
to make the longer journey to Biak town. parallels the south coast of Supiori, just
across the Sowek strait. The edges drop off
To the west: Wardo
steeply, and it is a fine site for snorkeling.
The bayside market of Wardo lies at the Insubabi is a tiny island on this coral
western end of a 50 kilometer paved road bank, just across the strait from Sowek. The
from Biak town. The hour-and-a-half ride is people are very friendly, and the reef just in
somewhat monotonous, although an occa- front of the village is an excellent site for
sional village appears against the deserted snorkeling. The recent introduction of com-
jungle backdrop, with waving kids. Much of mercial seaweed production provides needed
the area is uninhabited. A couple of kilome- cash income to the villagers.
ters before reaching the market, a paved strip South of Insubabi, shallow, sand-bottomed
to the right leads to the Wapsdori waterfall. waters surround Rani Island. A long spit of
From the end of the road, there is a steep white sand extends from the island's north
downhill path to the top of the falls. But you side, another delightful swimming and picnic
can't see the falls very well from this position. site. If you did not make plans to spend the
For a good view, you have to somehow night in this area, you will wish you had.
descend to the river at the bottom, which
would be difficult even for mountain goats.
Instead of risking your life this way, we
recommend hiring a little outrigger canoe ($3
and perhaps 1.5 hours) from the bay next to
Wardo market, and gliding up the river
through lush tropical vegetation for the
several kilometers to the falls. This real-life
jungle riverboat ride is worth the trip. If you
are in a hurry you could hire a motorized out-
rigger, but the noise would spoil the fantasy.
The Wardo market, by a narrow, palm-
fringed inlet, is the center of communications
with the south coast of Supiori. Large outrig-
gers with a central cabin and 40 HP engines
Insure a quick ride to Korido and other vil-
lages. On market days, these boats make reg-
ular trips to Supiori for $3-$4 a person, the
trip taking 2-3 hours each way.
But Korido village, large but not very
attractive, should not be your primary goal.
Head for Sowek village instead. The high
A Quiet
beans, coconuts and trepang. There are small
stores stocking basics such as soap and bat-
teries, but nothing requiring sizeable
Island
amounts of cash.
Small local motorboats, which shuttle pas-
sengers and goods between Biak and
Manokwari, levy high charges, which dis-
and Manggari villages, the remains of a U.S. dance performances can be arranged here
fighter plane from World War II lie partially for visitors.
exposed to the waves. Namber, the next village down the coast,
On arrival in Yenburwo, next to the is the best place for an overnight stop. The
airstrip, check out the simple Japanese Shinto scenery, especially the fish-filled bays, will
war memorial with a cross just behind an easily occupy any spare time on your sched-
enclosed space next to the main road. A local ule. The village is split into two settlements,
pastor helped to dedicate the monument, Namber Lama (Old Namber) and Namber
hence the cross. Near the memorial, the fuse- Baru (New Namber). A short walk from the
lage of a U.S. bomber served for many years main road brings you to an exquisite spring-
as a family's home. Today, it is used for stor- fed cove, whose waters flow through a nar-
age. The plane's serial number and seal can row channel into a mangrove-lined bay.
still be clearly seen on a sheet of metal. A few huts perched on stilts form part of
Another part of the fuselage, where the let- the village, most of which is located at a slight
ters "U.S.A." are clearly visible, encloses a elevation. Here you can easily hop into a
privy perched on stilts over the water. small outriggered canoe to explore the bay,
Just two kilometers from Yenburwo, the the uninhabited island of Pulau Manem and a
village of Andei is home to a couple of small
boats that make runs to Biak and Manokwari.
From Andei, the road cuts inland through the
jungle, with paths leading to small seaside
settlements or inland gardens.
Manggari village contains the crumbling
remains of a U.S.-built dock area, a small
Japanese ship partially submerged in the
sand, and the wrecks of a dozen amphibious
landing vehicles. A bell, formerly used to call
GIs to chow, has been hung in front of the
church to call the faithful to prayer.
A shorter jaunt out of Yenburwo leads
west some 5 kilometers to a beautiful long
white sand beach at Asaibori, near a small
village. A bridge, built over a wide creek dur-
ing World War II, has now collapsed. As this
was on the main road to the west, the current-
ly used road, which cuts inland, misses this
nice beach, favored by the local population
for Sunday picnics.
The road along the western shore of
Numfor reaches the village of Saribi, then
peters out in the jungle before Pakreki. This
last village remains accessible for motorcy-
cles but to travel to Mandori, on the east cen- delightful lagoon-bay called Kasyom a short
tral coast, you must go by boat or on foot. way down the coast to the south.
Heading west from Yenburwo, you cross Manem Island, a Japanese oupost during
the boundary between Numfor Timor (East World War II, now hosts birds which flock to
Numfor) and Numfor Barat (West Numfor). the mainland at dawn and return at dusk. Just
Report to the West Numfor police, in the capi- south of Namber, at Rumboi, you can see the
tal of Kameri, just off the main road at the remains of a jetty built by the Americans.
entrance to the village. Another jetty was built near Saribi village.
Offshore from Kameri, an American plane People at both Saribi and Pakreki say that
crash-landed in ten meters of water. South of there are weapons and other war artifacts
Kameri, there are inland caves occupied by inland. If you are willing to trek with them,
the Japanese during World War II. Baruki, they will be happy to show you the relics.
the first village south of Kameri, lies at the
end of a deep bay, fringed with white sand Opposite: A young Numforese girl. Above: A
and protected by an island at the entrance. spring-fed lagoon on the west coast of Numfor
With sufficient notice, rousing song-and- near Namber. A little corner of paradise.
76 BIAK AND THE NORTH
Coral Gardens
live in Yapen, one-fifth in Serui town. The dis-
trict's 700 Muslims live in town. Everyone
else on the island is Protestant.
and Birds of
Cacao and timber lead Yapen's cash econ-
omy, followed by fish, coffee, trepang and
massoi bark (this last used in Javanese folk
medicines). Locally, oil from massoi bark,
Serui hosts a bustling early-morning mar- and are powered by 40 HP Yamaha out-
ket with vegetables and fish brought in by boards. The boatman will stop for you at vil-
canoe. A paved road on the west side of the lages and diving spots, selected according to
bay leads to two villages perched over the your mood and interest.
water: Pasir Hitam, a half hour's stroll, and Hiring such a mini-yacht in paradise is
Pasir Putih, which takes about an hour. If you highly recommended, but not during the sea-
prefer, entrepreneurs will paddle you there son of heavy seas — September through
from Serui in a canoe for a pittance. January. If your Indonesian is up to it, bargain
Yapen is heaven for serious bird watchers. and charter one of these canoes. Otherwise,
A day's walk from Serui into the uninhabited arrangements can be made through the
mountainous interior reportedly affords Losmen Merpati or the Reverend Mesak
glimpses of several species of birds of par- Dawir, telephone 67.
adise and other shy and exotic forest Ambai Village makes the perfect destina-
denizens. The locals set noose traps for wild tion for a half-day outrigger trip. The trip
pigs and snare birds. takes less than an hour from Serui, and pass-
Unfortunately, they also hunt the protect- es sheltered bays with clear water and coral.
ed birds of paradise. Live baby birds and the Fish are more abundant outside the bays.
breeding plumes of adult birds fetch a high Ambai, perched on stilts on a small island
price in Jakarta. (As much as $75 for a live facing Yapen, is huge by local standards—
baby bird.) It is said that the hunters may 3,000 people, including the "suburbs." Every
even be using mist nets in Yapen, which is an Tuesday and Wednesday on a tiny island in
extremely efficient way to collect the animals. the bay, people from Ambai bring fish to
As most of the hunting takes place near the barter for vegetables brought from the facing
more heavily inhabited southern coast, it is "mainland" village. Long-established practices
said that Yapen's north shore—easily acces- keep bargaining to a minimum. This pic-
sible by boat from Biak—is now the best turesque market is strictly for early birds—
place to see them. 5:30 a.m. to 6:30 a.m.
Shallow seas and bays, replete with coral
gardens and fishing villages, are Yapen's Opposite: A brightly colored traditional canoe
main attraction. Sturdy bamboo outriggers slices through the water at Ansus, on the south
can be hired for $20 to $30 a day, plus fuel. coast of Yapen. Below: Although beautiful, the
Petrol runs about $3-4 an hour at 10-12 knots. lionfish, Pterois volitans, should be treated with
The canoes have a little cabin across the hull, respect as its fin spines carry venom.
80 BIAK AND THE NORTH
West Papua's
the immediate surroundings. On its way back
to Ternate, the Dutch team called at Dore
(near present day Manokwari) where the
Bustling
ship's officers gave Sir Alfred Wallace, the
great British naturalist, an account of their
findings. Wallace writes: 'They had stayed at
Humboldt Bay several days, and found it a
half hour's climb from Base G, also offers Museum Negeri gives you a better idea of the
spectacular dawn views of Jayapura. Below material culture of several West Papuan
the lighthouse, big waves crash around the groups. There are miniature huts showing
rock formations. Another superb little bay, regional variations in living quarters, includ-
locally called Pasir Enam, can be reached ing a 1:4 scale front of an Asmat jeu, or men's
either by boat from Jayapura or, if you are house, and a Dani honai. Particularly fascinat-
feeling energetic enough to walk, ask one of ing are two Asmat trophy or ancestral skulls,
the neighborhood kids to show you the way. skillfully decorated. One display is of tradi-
You are in for an hour's steep climb, so take tional bride price items, another has musical
plenty of water and don't start out in the heat instruments. Upstairs, the Summer Institute
of the day. The isolated beach here offers of Linguistics has listed 245 languages and
good snorkeling. dialects of West Papua, keyed to a large map.
A half-day excursion out of Jayapura (or Historical trade contacts with the island are
Sentani) covers several points of interest documented with Chinese, Japanese and
between the airport and the capital. The Dutch porcelain and other exchange items.
University of Cenderawasih Museum in
Lake Sentani
Abepura boasts quite a good collection of
West Papuan artifacts and a souvenir stand Just out of Sentani, a paved road winds
offering recent carvings and craft items. Ask upward for 6 kilometers and climbs to Mount
for Nico Tanto, who works here and also has Ifar in the Cyclops Mountains. At Ifar stands
an excellent crafts shop in his house. A few a monument to General MacArthur, whose
kilometers further out of town, the Museum headquarters were located here. The site
Negeri offers exhibits on the natural history overlooks the humid lowlands and offers a
and material culture of several West Papuan splendid view of the lake. Local lore states
ethnic groups. Both museums are open from that while gazing out over island-strewn Lake
8 a.m. to 1 p.m., Monday through Friday. Sentani, MacArthur conceived his famous
T h e r e are two floors to the Museum island-hopping strategy in the Pacific.
Negeri's main building, housing a variety of At several places on the shores of Lake
artifacts from all districts of West Papua. Sentani, you can arrange to rent an outboard-
Some are labelled in English and there are powered dugout ($10-$15 per hour) to visit
plans for more thorough descriptions. The the island villages or just ride around the lake.
collection of the University of Cenderawasih While there are regular services, it's better to
is the best of the two aesthetically, but the c h a r t e r one of these outboard-powered
JAYAPURA 83
Hub of the
Because it has a well protected harbor, the
Dutch set up the administrative post for West
Papua's north coast at Manokwari. The area
Bird's Head
later lost much of its importance when
Hollandia became the capital of Dutch New
Guinea. During World War II, the Japanese
established a military base here, bombed and
are well stocked with all the essentials and a shallow coral bank offers decent snorkeling.
fair number of luxuries. The main shopping Continuing on the seaside road, you reach a
area is Jalan Merdeka, near the Hotel lighthouse, where many birds flock.
Mokwam. A newer shopping complex has Manokwari's central market spreads out
gone up near the Hotel Mutiara. along the west side of Dore harbor. A series
For the best overview of town, hike up to of high-roofed buildings shelter mini-stores,
the Japanese War Memorial, about 2 kilo- the occasional butcher and scattered piles of
meters from the Hotel Arfak. You start off on fresh vegetables. Try not to walk on the har-
a paved road, then a wide earthed path climbs bor side at low tide as the market's accumu-
up a sweat-inducing slope before leveling off lated garbage takes the charm out of any
for a pleasant jungle stroll in the Gunung stroll. The taxi terminal is next to the market.
Meja Park. The simple, enclosed monument While the central market operates all day,
is complemented by a concrete and wood the fish market just to the south starts at
replica of a traditional native hut set on piles. dawn and lasts until about 9 a.m. There might
The panorama, a bit hemmed in by trees, be a huge spotted grouper for sale, or bar-
looks over much of the town, Dore Bay, and a racuda, red snappers and many other species.
chunk of the Arfak Mountains. Continuing on Motorized outriggers depart from here later
the same path for some 4 kilometers brings in the day in various directions, pulling up
you to a campus of Cenderawasih University. next to the fish market to wait for passengers.
Heading out of town past the hospital and If the weather is clear, take a boat out to
the police station towards Pasir Putih, you Leman and Mansinam Islands. Motorized
soon reach Gereja Koawi. The monument to outrigger canoes can occasionally be found at
the first missionaries, built over some of their the main dock but your chances of finding
graves, is located just behind the church. one are better next to the fish market, by the
Two angels trumpet over the entrance. A central market. The right light brings out
large traditional native house sits on piles shades of the sea ranging from clear white to
over the graves with local warrior statues turquoise to deep blue, depending on the
guarding the sides. A long panel in the back, depths. The waters of Dore Bay, lined with
colorful if not particularly well-executed, wooden houses perched on stilts and fronted
shows life in the region before and after the by a variety of boats, remain surprisingly
arrival of Christianity. The same bayside road clean—but don't look too close to the shore-
continues on to Pasir Putih, 'White Sand" line, especially near the market at low tide.
beach. There is good swimming here, and a After a tour of the harbor, head to small
90 THE BIRD'S HEAD
Leman Island, its few huts and white sand enters a wide, fertile valley containing some
beaches standing out against the backdrop of of West Papua's best soils. A private company
the Arfak Mountains. Just offshore to the owns huge palm oil and cacao plantations
north of Mansinam Island, facing Manok- here. A small town, Warmeri, is located 40
wari, a large white cross commemorates the kilometers from Manokwari.
pioneering work of missionaries. This was Beyond the town another dozen kilome-
where Ottow and Geissler landed to set up the ters of pavement cut across rivers, creeks and
first mission outpost in West Papua. An old oil palms, reaching the oil processing plant
church and well sit just inland from the cross. and eight t r a n s m i g r a n t s e t t l e m e n t s at
The eastern side of Mansinam presents Prafi—the largest in the Manokwari area.
stretches of coral raised to the tree line, alter- The 15,000-odd transmigrants are mainly rice
nating with short stretches of white sand farmers from Java, with some also from
beach, inviting for a secluded dip. A tangle of Timor and Flores. About 5,000 West Papuans
jungle reaches the sea here. As you approach have also resettled here. Each family has
the island's southern shore, look for birds been given two hectares by the government
and trees full of the large fruit bats called fly- as well as a small house, agricultural imple-
ing foxes, which sometimes erupt from the ments, seeds and a year's supply of food. A
trees by the thousands. A semi-circular bay smaller Javanese community of 280 families
on the far south side of the island faces coral settled in the vicinity of Oransbari on the
formations making up the area's best under- coast south of Manokwari.
water scenery.
The Anggi Lakes
About three quarters of the way down the
west coast, ask your boatman to stop by a The best side trip from Manokwari is to the
large Japanese ship sunk during World War Anggi Lakes in the Arfak mountains. Back-
II. The ship lies on its side in seven to ten packers can cover the distance in four days
meters of clear water, easily visible from the (lop off two days by hopping on a minibus as
surface. A good view of the craft, home to fish far as Warmeri), but we suggest flying in.
and sprouting coral formations h e r e and Before entering the Arfak mountains, the
there, can be had by snorkelers. While you plane has to fly in a wide circle over the
can easily reach the top side of the ship, peer- Warmeri valley to gain the necessary altitude.
ing inside takes unusual lung capacity. Local Then it's densely wooded, steep-walled val-
fishermen maintain there have been no shark leys, tree tops looking like a blanket of broc-
s i g h t i n g s , so swimming and s n o r k e l i n g coli and huts in the middle of nowhere with
should be safe. cleared patches on impossible slopes.
The tallest peak in the Arfaks, Gunung
South from town
Umsini, reaches 2,926 meters and five other
The paved road south of Manokwari now mountains top 2,000 meters. The flight path
extends past the transmigration settlements c r o s s e s the village and landing strip at
at Prafi, about 60 kilometers away, and reach- Manyembow before more mountain scenery,
es past Ransiki. This road heads south past then the flat, swampy, bog-like terrain extend-
the airport and h u g s the s h o r e of Lake ing out from one end of Anggi Giji. A tiny out-
Kabori, oval in shape and barely separated rigger or two might be on the lake to add to
from the sea. An old dirt road runs between the spectacular effect of swooping down over
the lake and the sea, but fallen logs and a the water just in time for a turn to land on the
washed-out bridge prevent vehicles from fol- dirt strip at Sureri Village. The scenery on
lowing this more picturesque route. the flight is itself worth the price of the ticket.
From the main road, t h e r e ' s only one From paths above the lake, the panorama
viewing spot affording a clear panorama of sweeps over steep slopes covered with ferns
the lake, but unfortunately this is next to a or forest tipping into the smooth waters, with
garbage dump. The paved road runs above the only ripples coming from paddled outrig-
the lake, cutting through limestone hills, ger canoes. Sunlight, fog or clouds each cre-
before crossing a bridge at Maruni, 29 kilo- ate a different setting and mood, so spend a
meters from Manokwari. Just ahead, a 6-kilo- few days to experience the shifts of atmos-
meter side road leads to the seaside village of phere. Walking trails connect the villages.
Momi. Just beyond this turnoff, the road With a bit of luck, you can see the large
swings inland, climbing steeply. If the weath- Arfak butterflies, found only in this region—
er is clear, Numfor Island is visible across the
sea. Dropping down from the hills, the road Opposite: One of the beautiful Anggi Lakes.
MANOKWARI 91
with wings beautifully marked by iridescent they went wild, then had to be exterminated.
green patterns. Or accompany bow and arrow The Sougb people, now Christians, main-
hunters stalking wild pigs, the marsupial cus- tain some of their native traditions. A bride
cus or a variety of birds. Delicate, colorful price—ancient beads, store-bought cloth, ikat
orchids also enliven a forest stroll. Anggi Giji, cloth from Flores or Timor, pigs and seashell
considered the male lake, covers 2,900 bracelets—is still required to wed.
hectares while Anggi Gita, the female lake, All diseases, including the common cold,
spreads over 2,500 hectares. are believed to result from black magic. Toy
This lake district and the 12,000-strong pistols are now loaded with potent powder
Sougb ethnic group living in the area were and fired from a hidden position at one's
opened to the outside world by the opening of intended victim. The missionary thinks it will
an airstrip and an American evangelical post take a couple more generations before belief
at the village of Sureri in 1955. The current in the efficacy of black magic begins to wane.
missionary, a tall, blue-eyed German chap Traditional dances are still occasionally
with 21 years' residence there, has recently performed and can be put on for visitors if
completed the translation of the New given sufficient advance notice. The men
Testament into the Sougb language. dress in red loincloths while the ladies wear
He has also successfully introduced high- black. There are two basic dances, a conga-
protein hybrid corn to supplement the staple type affair, single file around the huts, and a
diet of starchy sweet potatoes. Other vegeta- linked-arms dance. The missionary does not
bles, now airlifted to Manokwari thanks to object to these if a certain decorum is main-
special rates by the Missionary Aviation tained, but some unavoidable lewdness invari-
Fellowship, include garlic, onions, carrots, ably creeps into the proceedings.
white potatoes, celery and cabbage. Most of the Sougb huts are built in the tra-
Cash is also earned through the sale of ditional manner, raised a meter or so on stilts,
the Arfak butterflies, orchids and an occa- with wood floor, bark walls and thatched roof.
sional sack of smoked fish. While the lakes Those who can afford it cover their houses
had originally contained only native fish, the with sheets of corrugated metal—not very
carp and goldfish have been introduced, eco- aesthetic but it ends the chore of replacing the
logically not necessarily a good thing. Some thatching every three or four years. Inside
of the goldfish now grow bigger than a man's these family huts, the men sleep in bunks on
thigh. The fish are caught from canoes with one side while on the other side each woman
hook and line. Cattle did not fare so well— has an enclosed mini-apartment.
92 THE BIRD'S HEAD
of all sizes are moored to the posts. Some of or to explore the coastline south to Teluk
these vessels are 13 meters long. Sebakor. (See map page 97.) Along this coast
The local people—members of dozens of are numerous villages, secluded beaches,
language and ethnic groups—often under- coral reefs and at the bottom of Sebakor Bay,
take one or two hundred kilometer journeys an amazing, two-kilometer stretch of massed
along the coast or across the open sea. orchids.
Everything along this coast seems to be done Here too are stunted trees which would
on a grander scale. appeal to bonsai lovers, and further inland
The area is also known for a very special rare butterflies, birds of paradise and ground
bride price. In most parts of West Papua and tree kangaroos. But the best coral reefs
where the bride price is still paid, it now con- are still further south, along the coast where
sists of jewelry, money, and perhaps some old the Kitikiti waterfall cascades down sheer
porcelain. In the Fakfak area, the most trea- cliffs or the Kumafa Range into the sea.
sured component of the bride price are lela, On a calm day, the journey by dugout to
antique bronze cannon, usually of Portuguese the first of the rock carving sites takes about
origin. These three or four hundred year old five hours, but high waves can increase this
pieces remain priceless family possessions. to seven hours. At the time of our visit, this
was the only way to reach Kokas, although by
Fakfak town
now the road from Fakfak may be completed.
Fakfak, nestled against the side of a steep
The rock paintings
slope on the south coast of the Onin
Peninsula, is the administrative center of this The sites are located along the coast and on
region. The airstrip is literally hewn out of the nearby islands between Kokas and Goras, a
side of a mountain, and only craft with short distance of about 30 kilometers. The paint-
takeoff and landing capability (such as the De ings, mostly in shades of red, are found on
Havilland Twin Otter) can call here. The town the back walls of horizontal wave cuttings and
itself extends from the water right up the waterworn caverns in the limestone cliffs lin-
steep slopes and gullies. It is a maze of wind- ing the south shore of the bay. They stand
ing and narrow roads, and is quite a pic- some 5 meters or more above sea level. Some
turesque place to stay for a day or two. of the small offshore islands look like giant
The main reason for coming here, howev- mushrooms, the relentless action of the
er, is to hire a boat and travel along the coast waves eroding their base. Older surf galleries
north to Berau Gulf to see the rock paintings, higher up are decorated with paintings. (See
BOMBERAI 97
Rock Art, page vo.) remote location, and that it sees almost no
In the past, most of the painted galleries visitors, Kaimana is well-known in Indonesia.
served as burial grounds, where wooden It features in a very popular song, which
coffins were placed and s u r r o u n d e d by describes the beauty of the sunsets there.
gravesite goods such as antique pottery, carv- The town and the adjoining villages encircle a
ings and beads. Although scattered bones bay with a backdrop of dark, forested moun-
and pieces of timber document this funerary tains, cut with deep gorges.
custom, collectors and dealers have long T h e first rock carving site is on the
since scavenged these gifts. western shore of Bitsyari Bay, just half an
Some of the painted galleries are quite hour from Kaimana by outboard-powered
extensive; others, on sheer cliffs high above canoe. Here three wide-eyed anthropomor-
the sea, may have simply a few hands sten- phic figures executed high up on a now inac-
ciled in red against a white background, cessible wall stare across the water to sites on
Hand stencils are the most common subject, the eastern coast of the bay. Our canoe con-
but there are also stencils of human feet, fish, tinued, gently floating past sculpted cliffs,
and of angled boomerangs and clubs, coves and islands, with painted galleries and
Paintings of fish are common, as are matutu- niches at their surf-worn waists, over a clear
os, part human and part animal figures who sea full of coral and colorful fish.
are said to be the great ancestors of the cur- The largest site, some 4 kilometers long
rent population. T h e r e are also abstract and containing a hundred or more individual
designs whose meaning can at this point only paintings, is adjacent to Maimai village. From
be guessed at. here, one enters the passage between the
The most mysterious gallery is a large mainland and Namatota Island, passing by
cave located in the mountains, two days' walk more rock art sites, and then the waves begin
from Kokas. There are so many designs cov- to rise and toss the canoe. If you are brave
ering its walls that it is said you can always you should c a r r y on. For once you get
find your own name among the sprawling and through the passage and pass a cape where
superimposed lines. the sea boils, you enter Triton Bay—and
TZ . . .. . , then you are in paradise.
Kaimana: paintings and sunsets „ „, r .,
&
—George Chaloupka
Another complex of rock paintings is accessi-
ble by boat from Kaimana, a small town 45 Opposite: Returning in a long outboard-powered
minutes by plane from Fakfak. Despite its I dugout from Arguni Island in Berau Gulf.
98 ROCK ART
The Painted
most recent were figures executed in white
pigment. One of the white paintings, a repre-
sentation of a hornbill, was previously record-
ed by a 19th century visitor, which suggests
Sea Cliffs of that even the white paintings are not new.
The rock art styles were named after the
localities of their type sites—places where
Bomberai
there are large numbers of similar motifs.
Hand stencils
The earliest, Tabulinetin style paintings are
Throughout the world, early hunter-gatherer from a site on the western side of an island of
societies documented their existence with the same name. It is also represented in
rock paintings, and West Papua is no excep- numerous works at Cape Abba and at other
tion. Caves and shelters with engraved images, sites. The style is characterized by a large
or yellow, white and black paintings can be number of stencils, and paintings of animal
found on Waigeo Island, crude scratched motifs depicted as full silhouettes.
images can be found in scattered highland The stencils were created by placing an
caves, and one can find engraved fish, lizards object against the rock surface, and blowing
and turtles on the slopes above Lake Sentani, a pigment around it. The majority of stencils
few kilometers from the airport. are of hands, which at both Tabulinetin and
But the two largest and most interesting the Abba site densely cover the available sur-
complexes of rock art are found on exposed face. The sprayed pigment from layers of
rock seawalls along the southern shores of stenciled hands stained the rock with varying
Teluk Berau, just across the peninsula from tones of red ocher. Hand stencils are inter-
Fakfak town, and just south of this area, in spersed with those of feet, fish and a range of
the region of Kaimana. artifacts. The most interesting of these are
stencils of angled boomerang-like objects.
The Berau Gulf paintings
Hand stencils have their origin in a local
Although the western coast of New Guinea myth. People here say that long ago their
was exceedingly remote, European adventur- ancestors, a man and two women, came from
ers first discovered the paintings here in the direction of the rising sun, or emerged
1678, m o r e than two c e n t u r i e s before out of the sun itself. They were blind, and as
Altamira, the first decorated cave discovered they moved along the rocks feeling their way
on the European continent, was found. they left imprints of their hands and feet. The
T h e first rock a r t site found in New stencils found now in the shelters are said to
Guinea is just south of the current administra- bear witness to this ancestral journey.
tive center of Fakfak. In 1878, a second major Paintings executed in this style are found in
complex of sites was discovered along the superimposition and variably weathered, sug-
southern coast of Teluk Berau, formerly the gesting that the style was extant for a consid-
MacCluer Gulf. (See map, page 97). erable period of time.
The Teluk Berau sites extend some 30 Paintings of fish, humans, and anthropo-
kilometers, between the villages of Kokas and morphs are also common motifs in this style.
Goras. These paintings were first studied by The human figures are shown frontally with
Josef Roder, a member of a 1937-38 expedi- bent legs and raised arms. Some are lizard-
tion to the Moluccas and Dutch New Guinea human forms, with pointed heads and long
sponsored by the Frobenius Institute. Artist curved tails. These are said to represent the
A. Hahn recorded the paintings, and his Matutuo spirits associated with fishing.
plates and Roder's analysis of 34 sites were
The Manga style
later published in Felsbilder und Vorgeschichte
des MacCluer-Golfes West-Neuguinea. The Tabulinetin style was succeeded by the
Roder identified a number of styles which Manga style, typified by elaborate, decorative
he placed in chronological sequence, noting designs. These were essentially non-figura-
the order of superimposition. The exact age tive, although the ambiguous human-lizard
of the paintings has not yet been determined. figures and fish continue to appear. The range
The first four art styles in this sequence of symmetrical designs extends from simple
MANOKWARI 99
White figures are restricted in their
occurrence, and Roder did not accord them a
classification. They are sketches in thick,
bold lines or silhouettes, and are considered
the most recent examples of Berau Gulf art.
Kaimana area styles
The rock art of Kaimana, when fully record-
ed, will prove to be as extensive as that of
MacCluer Gulf. Although there are some
common elements and motifs, expressed in
similar techniques, the Kaimana region art is
The Baliem
Highlands
The Grand Valley of the Baliem River, green in the valley, is now a tourist item.
and fertile, nestles incongruously in West Ritual warfare is not quite forgotten,
Papua's cordillera of rocky peaks. Coursing although it has been 20 years since the last
down its center is the silt-rich Baliem River, a great battles were held. Feuds still develop
branching stripe of cafe au lait against the val- over land, women and pig stealing, and old
ley's green floor. The Grand Valley is mild rivalries. Such disagreements, now settled on
and beautiful: the soil is covered with trees the sly, claim dozens of lives each year.
and grass, and everywhere, tidy plots of The traditional Dani bride price has felt
sweet potatoes. Looming on all sides, shroud- the effects of inflation. Today, the bride's fam-
ed by mist and clouds, is the mountain wall. ily expects the following: 5 fiber skirts, 10-20
Author Robert Mitton called it "the only strands of shell money, 30 or so net bags and
place in the world where man has improved 10 pigs. But not just any pigs. At least two or
on nature." Not normally given to such over- three have to be big ones, which cost about
statement, he also calls the valley: "as close $300 each. The others, medium-sized critters,
to Paradise as one can get." can still cost $100 to $200 a head.
The Grand Valley is home to the Dani, the The Grand Valley is 1,600 meters high, 60
most populous of West Papua's highlanders. kilometers long and 15 kilometers wide, and
Most famous for their ritual warfare and sarto- is surrounded on all sides by 2,500-3,000
rial habits—in particular, the horim, or penis meter peaks. The Baliem River flows into the
gourd—the Dani are also first-rate farmers, valley from the north from two sources: the
the key to the valley's high population. East Baliem, which begins near Gunung
The Dani's numbers are increasing even Trikora, and the West Baliem, which begins
today, rising from some 50,000 in the early in the Ilaga-Tiom valley system. These two
1960s to currently more than 100,000 in the rivers join, then briefly disappear under-
valley itself. There are also 129,000 Western ground in the Baliem Swallet, just southwest
Dani or Lani, who speak a slightly different of Tiom. The waters join the North Baliem,
language and live west of the Grand Valley. and then drop to the floor of the Grand Valley,
The Indonesian government and four where they become a slow brown river.
decades of Christian missionaries have After leaving the valley, the river gains
brought considerable changes to the Dani speed and rushes south, pouring through the
lifestyle, but many traditions remain. The only break in the mountain chain, the earth-
grunts of the beloved family pigs can be quake-prone Baliem Gorge. First dropping
heard around the thatch-covered hut com- 1,500 m e t e r s in a series of spectacular
pounds and the valley landscape is cross- cataracts, the Baliem then becomes the
hatched with rectangular mounds of purple- Siretsj, a wide, muddy tidal river that slowly
green sweet potato vines. empties into the Arafura Sea.
Although shorts and T-shirts are common
in Wamena, a town of about 8,000 that is the Overleaf: The Uwe (or Wamena) River at dawn.
capital of the Grand Valley, outside of town Opposite: A Dani man decked out in feathers
most men continue to wear penis gourds, and and hat. In the Baliem valley, long thin penis
married women their low-slung fiber skirts. gourds (or horim,) like this one are preferred,
Weddings and other ceremonies mark the while the Western Dani outside the valley wear
changes in Dani life, and continue to be cele- much fatter and shorter gourds. But these are
brated in much the same way. But the stone just general styles. Men are very particular
axe, 25 years after the first steel axe was seen and individualistic about their gourds.
106 THE HIGHLANDS
Adventurer in
map of New Guinea at the time. Previous
expeditions had explored the southern slope
of this impressive r a n g e , r e t u r n i n g with
important biological collections. And though
trees for the approach, the Guba could land edge of these uplands forms the rim of the
on the lake to bring in supplies. From Lake Baliem Valley, and from the southern edge
Archbold, the going really got tough—steep rises Gunung Trikora and the Sudirman
climbing through forest, and no trails. Mountains.
Once the party began to approach the The scientists noted that the lake was rich
Baliem Valley, the local highlanders became in birds, and the locals hunted ducks there
numerous and friendly. Too friendly, in fact. with bows and arrows. The 20-centimeter-
In several villages, Lt. Van Areken was wel- long crayfish discovered in the lake provided
comed with food, but the tribesmen did not a welcome addition to the explorers' tinned
want the party to leave. Only the "utmost diet. The explorers found a path rising to
d e t e r m i n a t i o n " kept the g r o u p moving, 3,800 meters, in some places worn shoulder-
according to the expedition journal. One day, deep by local foot traffic. This communica-
after a friendly reception, the party found tions link was used for both trade and social
their path blocked by a barricade of warriors calls between the people of the Baliem Valley
with spears. The journal laconically states: and those living in the foothills south of the
"Here occurred the one incident where more mountain ranges.
than a show of force was necessary." Once the Lake Habbema region had been
A later missionary account states that two explored, the upland party shifted to the
Dani were shot and killed before the party Baliem Valley. When the expedition set up
could proceed into the Grand Valley. camp in the lower Baliem, they were given a
The expedition journal says nothing about huge feast by their hosts. Pigs were killed,
why the Dani had turned hostile, but it seems and both the Dani elders and expedition lead-
that the warriors were trying to block the ers ate the animals' livers in a bonding ritual.
expedition from moving into enemy territory. Speeches were delivered and the pigs' blood
Seeing the expedition's resources of valuable was sprinkled on the foreigners.
cowrie shells (the highland currency), steel
New introductions
axes and knives—all liberally traded for food
or offered as gifts—the natives wanted to Agricultural practices in the heavily populated
continue profiting from the strangers' largess, valley were highly-developed: the steep valley
and to keep their enemies from doing so. walls were terraced using stone and timber
retaining walls, and erosion control and crop
Exploring the Lake Habbema area
rotation were extensively employed.
A total of 105 people had by this time been The sweet potato was the staple, but in
flown to Lake Habbema in the Guba, along addition, the expedition journal notes, the
with tons of supplies. The military team Dani grew bananas, tobacco, taro, sugar cane,
under Capt. Teerink trekked down from the c u c u m b e r s , g o u r d s , spinach and b e a n s .
lake through the Ibele Valley and on to the Peanuts, introduced by the Archbold expedi-
Baliem Valley. They experienced very friend- tion, soon caught on and are today very popu-
ly receptions, and there were no more killings. lar in the valley.
It was time to set up camp in the valley. Whenever sweet potatoes, vegetables or
After exchanging locations by radio, Lt. pigs were required by the expedition, cowrie
Van Areken and Capt. Teerink rendezvoused shells were used to barter for them. The Dani
in the Baliem. They calculated that an emer- wanted only the smaller shells, preferably
gency retreat from Lake Habbema to the with the back, or convex p a r t removed.
Idenburg camp would take 14 to 16 days, now Quality—and purchasing power—was deter-
that paths had been cut. The two parties mined by the shell's shape, size, ribbing and
e x c h a n g e d a n u m b e r of Dayaks before luster. An average cowrie purchased 10 kilos
returning to their respective points of depar- of sweet potatoes; 6-10 good ones fetched a
ture so that some men would be familiar with small pig.
the entire route between Lake Habbema and The expedition lasted 14 months, and pro-
the Idenburg River. duced a body of important scientific work as
The men at the Habbema camp got used well as a National Geographic article that was
to sunburn, freezing cold, cracked lips, alti- to pique further scientific and missionary
tude sickness and thin air. Lake Habbema is interest in the region.
in an area of alpine grassland, consisting
mostly of limestone bedrock with some large Opposite: The Baliem Valley in 1938, as seen
sandstone outcroppings. The lake lies on a 9 from the window of the Guba. Photo courtesy
kilometer wide upland shelf. The northern of the American Museum of Natural History.
ARCHBOLD EXPEDITION 109
110 THE HIGHLANDS
West Papua's
straw and wood honai—the majority of the
Dani, particularly in the Grand Valley, have
yet to be convinced that their ways are not
Famous
those best suited to life in the Baliem Valley.
The first whites arrive
The Grand Valley went unnoticed during the
south languages were mutually unintelligible. Catholic missionary had no objection to this
A high point of early evangelical work was practice, saying that this way every woman,
reached on February 14, 1960. Thanks to ser- no matter how old or crippled, is part of a
mons by "witness men," who were converted household. Dynamic, hard-working men, who
Christians from t h e Ilaga area of t h e can raise the $500 bride price, take extra
highlands, a huge fetish-burning took place brides. The priest also says that, according to
at Pyramid, at the northern end of the valley. Catholic hospital birth records, girls outnum-
A pyre of fetishes over 200 meters long, more ber boys three to two.
than a meter wide and 60 centimeters high Arguments against the practice state that
went up in a tremendous blaze. According to many young men can't find spouses because
one missionary account, 5,000 Dani partici- the girls are "bought" by older men with plen-
pated in that particular burn-in. (However, ty of pigs available for the bride price. Since
the same account states that 25,000 Dani— the men cannot always sexually satisfy all
the total population was then just 75,000— their wives, this leads to extramarital rela-
flocked to hear the "witness men.") tions. A man caught in an illicit affair has to
Many obstacles to the whole-hearted pay a pig-fine to the woman's husband— who
acceptance of Christianity remained. Some uses the animals to buy still more wives.
Dani groups saw the missions as a threat to
Harvard-Peabody Expedition
their political power, and Sunday services
occasionally faced attacks. Another challenge Modern anthropological work in the valley
to the American Protestants was the arrival in began only in 1961, with the arrival of the
the valley in 1958 of Catholic missionaries of Harvard-Peabody Expedition, which included
the Franciscan order. a film crew led by Robert Gardner, still pho-
Ancestral beliefs remain strong among the tographers (among whom was Michael Clark
Grand Valley Dani. Conversion to a poorly Rockefeller), anthropologist Karl G. Heider,
understood Christianity when it did take and novelist-explorer Peter Matthiessen.
place was largely pro forma. The missions as The expedition spent half a year among
well as the government schools and econom- the Kurelu Dani, named for the war chief or
ic projects continue to be much more suc- kain Kurelu, who lived on the easternmost
cessful among the Western Dani. part of the valley, near Wuperainma and
The Dani practice of polygamy, which is Dukum. (Thanks to the expedition, Kurelu,
still widespread, illustrates the quandary reli- who died a few years ago, became quite a
gious l e a d e r s find t h e m s e l v e s in. One celebrity, and was regularly visited by travel-
THE DANI 113
A Childhood
Guinea. To this day legends abound among
the Moni about "Kontolull" (Controleur),
whose men floated to the ground on "clouds"
and shot their e n e m i e s with "rain fire"
Highlands
aircraft and began the treacherous walk into
the highlands east of Enarotali.
One of these pioneer couples was Bill
Cutts and his wife Grace. They had heard of
The 25,000 Moni live in the highlands east of the Moni tribe and were prepared to face
the Paniai Lakes and Enarotali, which was the bone-wearying elements and unpredictable
first Dutch post in the central highlands. encounters in order to win a place in the
Despite this proximity and that the Moni are hearts of the Moni. Days blurred into weeks,
one of the highlands' largest groups, little has and weeks into months as they grappled with
been written about them. Moni idiom and syntax, the Moni's fear and
Unlike the Ekari around the Paniai Lakes, suspicion of the "bleached white spirits," and
the Moni have proudly resisted assimilation. the logistical nightmare of establishing a base
Western encounters with the group seem a day's walk from the end of the earth.
always to produce strong reactions: "sarcas-
The little white spirit
tic," "a tribe of all chiefs and no Indians," and
even "treacherous," are often heard. Other Into this already complicated situation came
observers find much to admire: "they have the "little white spirit," later to be named Zani
such gentle features," and "they have inherit- Mala by the Moni. This was their best effort
ed all the good points of the tribes around at saying "Johnny," which is difficult when
them and blended them into one." your language has no "J" sound. The name
After having grown up with the Moni, I has stuck to this day.
can honestly say that it is understandable While the missionary couple struggled
that there are widely differing opinions about eight hours a day trying to comprehend this
this complicated tribal group. I too, after a unwritten language, Zani Mala was being
lifetime, am still attempting to draw my tutored by villagers, who were themselves
conclusions. quite curious about the strange people who
blew their noses into a piece of cloth and
First contacts saved it, and performed many other abnormal
The first documented meeting between a rituals. The elder Cuttses began to find out
European and the Moni took place in 1937, that the shifting and decentralized Moni
when Dr. J. W. Cator, the Assistant Resident at social structure made their work of prosely-
Fakfak, flew from the coast to Lake Paniai tizing more difficult.
and trekked to the village of Kugapa. In 1939, The younger Cutts, however, was found to
Controleur Dr. Jean Victor de Bruijn mount- be very impressionable and overly talkative,
ed an expedition to Kugapa and continued on thus challenging these Moni to expose Zani
into the heart of Moni country to the village Mala to their customs and traditions. It might
of Sanepa in the Kemandoga Valley. His first even be possible to transform this outsider
impressions were condescending (in the into a no-nonsense Moni chief.
habit of the time), but positive: T h e s c e n e was set for major conflict
'The Miganis [Monis] are a superior race between the elder Cuttses, who felt it was
and are very conscious of being so. Not only their duty to "civilize" Johnny during the few
are they superior in warfare, but ordinarily remaining hours left after a grueling day con-
conduct themselves with better manners and jugating Moni verbs, and the Moni, who
greater dignity. They are a proud people, monopolized Zani Mala from dawn till dusk.
more reserved, and unlike the Ekaris, will
never ask or beg."
De Bruijn spent the better part of five Opposite: John Cutts as a child in the
years learning about the Moni and living in highlands, with his friends Alice and Abe, two
their villages while supplying information to orphans adopted by Bill and Grade Cutts.
GROWING UP MONI 119
The Moni are well tuned to the resources buy a wife. A wife doubles his capabilities,
of their land, and the list of useful plants is and a second or third wife boosts his poten-
endless. I found this information fascinating. tial further.
After daily classes and field trips of this kind, Of course, like anywhere else, there are
it is no wonder that boarding school at age sometimes confidence artists. Chiefs serve as
six seemed like prison camp. the "banks" in Moni culture, so people with
shells or pigs that they don't have an immedi-
Leadership and cowrie shells ate use for will "invest" them with a chief they
The term sonowi in Moni means chief, and trust. Because of his position, he will have
growing up among these people meant daily many opportunities to trade, and will be able
reinforcement of the absolute necessity of to do so more successfully. The end result
becoming a chief, and outlining of the steps should benefit both him and his "investors."
that could bring about this coveted status.
Wealth and politics
Chief Isasabo, in particular, went out of his
way to include me in his muna dia sessions (a However, a fast-talking con artist can hood-
kind of negotiation that precedes a business wink investors into believing he has enough
deal) so I could learn about money, which personal wealth to repay their investment,
among the Moni was based on pigs and when in reality he has borrowed from hun-
cowrie shells. One cannot barter or trade suc- dreds of people and only shuffled their pigs
cessfully without u n d e r s t a n d i n g the six and shells around (much like a U.S. bank, in
grades of cowrie shells and their worth. fact). If too many debts come due at the same
Cowrie shells take years to travel from time, the whole pyramid collapses.
coastal a r e a s to t h e h i g h l a n d s , passing A famous chief, Wanda Wome, died with
through many hands en route. The Moni are thirty borrowed high-grade indo shells lent
well-known for their skill with cowrie shells. out to clans scattered around his village. A
According to Moni legend, they and their war nearly broke out when it was discovered
neighbors all came out of an area near the he had no wealth of his own to cover these
Wose caves called Mbubumbaba. The Moni debts. A genuine chief with real assets is
were given the job of naming all the shells called a mbusu-maga nanga-baga; a light-
and setting up a monetary system. The Dani weight chief is said to be a mbogo.
were given special skills in breeding pigs and Hoarding is not the answer, however. A fine
were given the ability to work tirelessly, but line needs to be walked. The more generous a
no talent in dealing cowrie shells. chief is with lending, the larger the group of
The value of the shells varies widely: sae, loyal followers he has, and thus the more polit-
about 500; munga, from $10-$20; kubawi, from ical clout he can wield. This very important
$40-$75; indo lagupa, from $50-$100; Hondo, form of social cohesion has been threatened
from $200-$1,500 and indo, from $250-$2,500. with the arrival of outside sources of money.
Within each grade, value is determined by The importance of lending and not hoard-
color, the number of bumps, and the style in ing money was brought home to me recently.
which the back was cut off. Shells of the top A group of prominent Moni leaders gathered
three grades are given names, accompanied by in the yard, and spoke to me.
a detailed history of transactions in which they "You're a chief today because we raised
were involved. Over time, this history adds you with Moni insight and wisdom. You are
value to the shell. Sitting around the fire of a young, and still learning how to tell good
men's hut, I was offered a key strategy to shells from bad, evaluate people as honest or
becoming a successful chief: "A real chief will not, and talk chief's talk and ideas convincing-
build his hut on a major crossroads. He will ly. You're a chief, but you don't divide your
thus have many visitors, who will be indebted wealth properly. You have much to learn still."
to him for his hospitality. Weary travelers will My attempts at community development
spread his fame by word of mouth." by advancing their cause by helping them
A boy wanting to become a chief could help themselves was only seen by these vil-
begin with clearing a patch of jungle and lagers as selfishness and a desire to hoard
planting sweet potatoes. The sale of this wealth I obviously had.
crop, together with the sale of bows and The industrial capabilities of the Moni have
arrows he made or salt he collected, could never been developed. Always during my time
yield enough shells to buy a baby female pig. with them they wanted explanations: How do
Eventually, with the help of family members, planes fly? Where do steel axes come from?
he may accumulate enough pigs and shells to How are clothes found? Never having seen
GROWING UP M O M 121
these items made, of course, they are very I This effort involves working with our Papuan
susceptible to a kind of cargo cult thinking. partner, Denyut Desa, meaning "the pulse of a
r^ * j J. j. . village," and also with the YBI Foundation.
Development and discontent ~ Ai. i • -. . - 1 - i- i
^ One of the mam goals is to assist churches and
Unus, a close friend for 15 years, asked: village communities in developing strong,
"Where did you find that shirt?" I replied that honest leaders, a need they identified as their
I bought it in a store. At this point he lowered top priority. Such leaders work together with
his voice. "Listen. Have we not been friends their communities to bring about the desired
for years? Please tell me where is the hole in spiritual and social changes. The tangible
the ground that yields all these treasures. I results far outweigh the tendency of many
promise I won't tell another soul." tribal groups to have the false expectation that
Recently, a group of Moni men approached everything will be given to them.
me and said they believed I returned to the Recently, on the way to a "killing of a white
Monis and the place of my childhood because pig" ceremony, I asked my Moni companions:
I knew there was a mountain of hidden trea- "Do you feel the coming of the missionaries
sure here. A breathless team of men had and other influences have hurt you as a tribe?"
arrived to report that 50 people had died in the The question was answered very explicitly.
past several months in an area just a day's walk "If the missionaries had not come, today
away. They had also found a rusty machete we would be killing one of our own warriors
along a river bank. Could it be that the fumes to even the score of battle and bring peace.
from an underground factory, pushing to the Instead, we will give 63 pigs in exchange for
surface, had killed these people? his life. We are glad your parents came and
The real question coming from the Moni taught us about God and loving others. It is
is: How can we improve the condition we are good not to live in constant fear."
in? Which leads to: Why do you have all you I must add that I too am glad. It was a priv-
need and we don't? And finally, the question ilege to be raised in the midst of such beauti-
that hurts the most: Are you somehow keep- ful people. And with that privilege comes an
ing this cargo from us, its rightful owners? awesome responsibility.
These questions are difficult and persistent, —John Cutts
and I struggle with them to this day. In an Villageheartbeat@jayapura.wasantara.net.id
effort to help them answer these, and many
other questions like them, we have started a Above: John Cutts today, chatting with some of
non-profit foundation called Village Heartbeat. I his Moni friends in Hitadipa.
124 THE HIGHLANDS
Exploring the
dise and gasoline. The Air Force's Hercules
cargo planes bring up Japanese minibuses for
just $300 each. From a few thousand people
Grand Valley
in the early 1980s, estimates of Wamena's
population now top 8,000 people.
Much of this increase is due to Indo-
nesians arriving from elsewhere in the archi-
the Jiwika market, up a steep mountainside to here, it's an hour's walk to Kurima at the
a saltwater spring called Iluerainma (or just head of the gorge, and the scenery all along
Iluwe). The salt pool is about 300 meters the way is well worth the effort.
above the valley and the steep climb takes The easy, level walk from Sugokmo takes
about an hour. Beware of the slippery footing. you across a long and narrow (but solid) steel
The brine pool is frequented by Dani from suspension bridge over a steep-sided gorge.
the valley as well as Yali living to the A bit further ahead, you will have to ford a
east—for whom the trip is a two to three day stream, the Yetni, which is easy when the
walk. The same procedure is used by every- water level is low, but tough when the river is
one to gather the salt. Banana trunks, peeled high. Willing porters will carry you across,
and cut into segments, are soaked in the piggyback. A porter weighing 60 kilos can
brine for about half an hour, then carried carry a bulky 85-kilo westerner. It may look
home. The saltwater permeates the fibrous and feel a bit ridiculous, but it's a lot better
trunks which are dried and then burned, than slipping into the rushing current.
yielding salty ash. T h e ash, wrapped in Kurima is a tiny, spread-out town with
blocks, was formerly an essential trade item, schools, military and police posts and the
and is still preferred for its taste. administrative center of the area. An airstrip
At Waga-Waga, further north from Jiwika, and a mission perch on a flat ledge above
is a limestone cave called Kontilola. town. Tuesday is the weekly market day here.
Minibuses let you out within a h u n d r e d If you stay overnight, report on arrival to the
meters of the cave entrance. A dark passage- police, where your suratjalan will be checked
way (bring a flashlight) leads from a large and the information laboriously copied down.
chamber to a pool of water and a section of Possible places to sleep in Kurima include the
the cave filled with bats. The cave-keeper will military post, the police station, or one of the
charge 75C to $1. schoolteachers' homes.
Hikes out of Kurima lead to incredible
South to Kurima: the Baliem Gorge
mountain scenery. Good boots, drinking
Some of the Grand Valley's most spectacular water, and a porter/guide with knowledge of
scenery lies southeast of Wamena, where the the local trails are all absolutely essential.
mountain wall parts in the Baliem Gorge. The hike described below can be covered in
Public transportation (about $1.10) leads as eight hours by experienced mountain hikers,
far as Sugokmo village, 20 kilometers from but to photograph and enjoy the scenery you
Wamena, where the road peters out. From should plan on two or three days.
AROUND WAMENA 129
near Sugokmo, where you can catch public
transportation back to Wamena. About one
and a half hours' walk up into the hills to the
west of Hetegima, there are salt springs simi-
lar to those above Jiwika.
North to Pyramid
A mostly paved road now runs the entire way
from Wamena to Pyramid (and beyond, to
Tiom) in the northwest corner of the Baliem
Valley. You can also find public transportation
leading there.
Trekking to
the Bene River, to the village of Ibele Atas
where you could overnight with the school-
teachers if you started your hike at Wamena.
But we suggest pushing on to spend the night
the Shadow at Daelah village, the last one before the long
hike to Lake Habbema. It's 3-4 hours from
Ibele Atas to Daelah, following ridge and hill-
of Trikora
side contours above the Bene River. Lots of
little creeks cross the path, offering pure
drinking water.
The views improve considerably as the
Bare, spectacular mountains stretch across gorge narrows. A short, but steep uphill
the horizon, a long rocky backdrop culminat- stretch opens into the valley, with Daelah's
ing in Gunung Trikora, at 4,743 meters, West compound scattered at the bottom. You can
Papua's second-highest mountain. In the fore- overnight at any of several compounds on
ground is Lake Habbema, wide and cold, your side of the river or cross it on a suspen-
reflecting the mountains and sky. Habbema sion bridge of rattan and planks to pick an
sits in a broad alpine marsh, a sponge of inviting place on the far side of the Bene.
mosses, tea-brown streams and strange vege- Our second day started with a steep half-
tation. The air is thin and cold, and at night hour through yam gardens to the uppermost
every star is visible. The nearest village is a compounds of Daelah, which offered a great
hard day's hike below. panorama of steep forested slopes and gar-
The trek to Lake Habbema requires no d e n s . T h e n an u n p l e a s a n t h o u r of mud
mountaineering skills, but it helps to be in brought us to the Dagum River, one of two
good physical condition. At a good pace, from joining to form the Bene. On the far side of
Wamena to the lake and back takes five days, the Dagum, the path became much drier as
but we suggest planning on 7 or 8 days to we entered the dense forest which reaches
enjoy the scenery and keep the trip from up to the high swampy plateau on which Lake
degenerating into a test of endurance. Habbema sits.
You will need a guide and several porters
Pandanus madness
to lug your gear. The guide ($14 a day) and
porters ($3 a day) will make life as easy as No one lives permanently in this forest, as the
possible for you, cooking hot meals two or altitude and thick vegetation preclude sweet
three times a day, making fires, arranging potato cultivation. But the men of Daelah,
your bedding and lending a helping hand who own most of this forest, know it well, for
over tricky spots—such as the long, slippery it provides them with cuscus for meat and
logs which constitute the path through sec- decorative fur, birds for flesh and feathers,
tions of the thick upland rainforest. For two and timber for their houses and to sell in
people, we suggest four to six porters. June, Wamena. And, most of all, here grows the
July and August, the driest months, are best highland pandanus.
for this journey. T h e fruit of t h e s e distinctive t r e e s
Boots with good grip are essential. You (Pandanus juilianetti and R brosimos) pro-
will also need a tent (there are no permanent duces great quantities of tasty, oily nuts. The
settlements in the area of the lake, and the trees are immediately identifiable by their
shelters are sometimes in very bad shape), thin trunks, crowns of strap-like leaves, and
sleeping bag, food and cooking utensils. You downward-pointing prop roots.
should also bring a rain-proof jacket, and As grown men elsewhere go crazy over
some plastic to waterproof your gear, and a the durian, so do the Dani over the pandanus.
sweater and even long underwear will not go When the fruit ripens, between March and
unused at night. August, men are known to neglect their pota-
to fields and families to gorge themselves on
Daelah Village pandanus. Our porters were not in the least
To save time (2-4 hours), start your trip by immune to pandanus-mania.
chartered minibus for you and your team, $18 Shortly after we entered the forest, our
and 13 kilometers to the end of the bridge lead porter stopped dead in his tracks: he had
just past the village of Elegaima, near the spotted a couple of men from Daelah, cutting
LAKE HABBEMA 131
up a pandanus fruit trailside. The spiky, oval- spend the night there. (This proved wise:
shaped fruit, 40 centimeters long and 25 cen- when we passed the pondok the next day, we
timeters across, is made up of hundreds of noticed it was a very skimpy affair, and the
tapered nuts. These taste something like higher altitude here and last night's rain
Brazil nuts when eaten raw, and more like would have made us most uncomfortable.)
almonds when roasted. Our porters got busy But to reach the first pondok, we had to
chatting up the owners, who were chopping climb up a huge, long trunk, with only slight
away the outer husk. notches for footholds. Our porters walked up
After their bargaining had bottomed out as if it were a flight of stairs, but we inched up
(1/3 the price it would have cost at the mar- the slippery wood, grateful for constant stabi-
ket in Wamena, I was informed) I was asked lizing hands.
for some money to buy several already roast-
Our team
ed chunks and a whole fruit, the latter weigh-
ing 12 kilos. The fruits were split into halves As we relaxed that afternoon, we got to know
for ease of portage. The curved shape bal- the men on our team. Markus was our cook
anced perfectly on a man's head, and this was and my partner's personal porter. He was
how they were always carried by our men. always concerned about our comfort on the
This scene repeated itself several times on trail and in camp, laughing and hugging us at
the way to Lake Habbema, and from this the slightest pretext. Markus was tireless and
point on our expedition had a soundtrack: the always high-spirited, and his command of
constant cracking of nuts. Lani (he is from a village west of the valley)
After only about t h r e e h o u r s out of often came in handy.
Daelah, it started drizzling and our guide sug- Jery was my personal porter, and even
gested spending the night in a pondok we had though he was stuck with a heavy camera bag
come across. These shelters, used by hunters which had to be always within my reach, was
and pandanus gatherers, vary from quite the liveliest of the bunch, constantly cracking
comfortable huts to mere lean-tos of bark and jokes in Dani and Indonesian. He is also more
wood. Pondok Yapokuema, a couple of hun- than a little vain, decorating his hair, arm-
dred meters off the path, was of excellent bands and beard with flowers, bits of moss,
quality, with a tight, overlapping bark roof leaves and whatever catches his fancy. When
and well joined sides. There was another pon-
dok some 2-3 hours further and we were not Above: Just past dawn, wood smoke filters
tired yet. But we gave in and decided to through the thatched roofs of Daelah.
132 THE HIGHLANDS
While Trikora forms a distinctive anchor to I green valley, far below, which sloped upward
the mountains at the far eastern end, it does to low hills and the base of Trikora. Most oi
not really stand apart from the rest in size. our porters scrambled ahead, and we careful-
The mountain, formerly Mt. Wilhelmina (after ly picked our way down a narrow, steep-
the Dutch Queen), takes its current name walled canyon that opened into the valley we
from an acronym for the three-branched saw from above. The men were already set-
Indonesian military: Tri Komando Rakyat. ting up camp, just across a small river wind-
We took advantage of the photo op offered ing its way along the near side of the valley.
by nature. And then our porters put on their These were the headwaters of the Uwe River,
penis gourds, decorated themselves with which, swollen by many tributaries, reaches
materials at hand and insisted on group pho- the Baliem River at Wamena. (It is sometimes
tos with Habbema and the chain of mountains called the Wamena river).
in the background. Here it was little more than a wide creek,
By noon we broke camp and started back, flowing through a bed of smooth stones. As
deciding to take a different, slightly longer we relaxed on a bit of dry ground we took in
route back to Wamena. According to Beni, the sight of the valley, covered with extensive
this way offered more spectacular scenery. stands of fern trees. From our position below,
As usual, he was right, although it did not Trikora barely peeked above the hills on the
seem so at first as we sloshed our way across far side of our depression. We dubbed the site
the swamp for a couple of hours. the Valley of the Tree Ferns. As the sun low-
Getting up from a quick rest stop, we spot- ered itself, it crossed clouds of dark shades
ted a group of men armed with bows and interspersed with tufts of white. It was a magi-
arrows heading toward us. A magnificent set cal moment.
of lean bodies, carrying nothing but their The moment was not so magical for our
weapons. A quick chat with our porters and men. We had our tent, but there was no pon-
they were on their way, heading for some dis- dok here, and they had to build a shelter for
tant village, keeping an eye out for cuscus the night. While two stayed behind to fix sup-
along the way. They were the only people we per, the others disappeared up a steep, forest-
saw during three days in the high plateau ed hill. Soon we heard trees toppling over.
around Habbema. Logs were hurled down the almost vertical
« -. ^ -^ face of the hill, picked up and hauled across
The tValley
rl1
of the Tree Ferns \ ,, .
the river.
Coming up on a ridge, we looked down on a I Sharpened at one end these became posts,
LAKE HABBEMA 135
early start the next day, content to breakfast
on a cup of coffee and a handful of pandanus
nuts. We crossed the Uwe River on a shaky
rattan suspension bridge to face a path of
more slippery logs—infinitely easier to nego-
tiate in daylight. A couple of hours of relative-
ly level trekking brought us out high on a
ridgetop with the Uwe, now a considerable
river, r u s h i n g t h r o u g h rapids far below.
About three hours of steep downhill followed,
hard on aging, operated-on knees.
Great expanses of yam gardens and small
North to
Twenty minutes out of Wamena, the plane
makes a short, bumpy landing on Karubaga's
grass-and-dirt airstrip, steeply inclined and at
Western Dani
an elevation of 1,400 meters. An expectant
crowd rushes forward to unload the plane,
embrace relatives or stare at the white
strangers with their strange gear and heavy
The guesthouse kitchen is equipped with a here for the whole trek as vegetables and
wood stove (the $5 includes wood) and a full fruit—including, of course, sweet potatoes—
set of pots, pans and crockery. You can cook are available along the way. To make the walk
your own meals or delegate the chore to enjoyable, hire a porter (about $3 a day).
either your guide or the guesthouse caretak- Taking only essentials, one porter should be
er, who is available to do all kinds of domestic enough for each person's load, with another
work for a very reasonable rate. for food and cooking gear.
After settling in, you should report to the Karubaga hosts a market on Mondays,
police station, a short walk on the other side Wednesdays, and Fridays, which brings to
of town. They might want to look at your the town the produce of the area. The first
passport but the critical item is your surat transactions take place in the uncovered mar-
jalan or travel permit. On the back of this ket area around 8 a.m. and by 2 p.m., most of
essential document, they will stamp the the action is over. Peanuts are the biggest
Karubaga permit, then fill out various forms local cash crop, selling here for 25C a kilo,
with an antique typewriter. The clean-cut half the Wamena price. Other marketables
young policemen are friendly chaps with little include pineapples, 10C-20C per fruit,
to do in life except play ping-pong and check oranges, red onions, chickens and the occa-
out t h e occasional tourist. Give t h e m a sional pig. Local government employees
chance to practice their nonexistent English. stock up here, and some of the produce is
Police business over, see to the logistics flown to Wamena at subsidized rates.
for your upcoming trek. If you have not The Karubaga market makes a great place
brought a guide from Wamena, a local one— for photographs, with lots of Western Dani
as well as porters—can be found, but none men and women gossiping, buying and sell-
can speak English. Even for tough walkers ing. Outside of the Baliem Valley, you don't
carrying their own backpacks, we suggest at have to pay to photograph the locals. They
least one guide because trails around villages love to have their picture taken. The problem
and gardens can be confusing, requiring frus- is obtaining natural poses, although this can
trating backtracking. usually be accomplished with patience and a
If you did not fly into Karubaga with all telephoto lens.
the essentials, there are a half-dozen small
The trail
stores around town to buy basics such as bat-
teries, candles, tinned food, biscuits and The trail between Karubaga and Wamena lies
instant noodles. You do not have to buy food along a planned, but not yet built road. The
TREK FROM KARUBAGA 139
right of way leads from Nabire (near the but small creeks and mudflats are traversed
coast at the base of Cenderawasih Bay) to on a round log or two, which are more likely
Wamena, through the western highlands. than not to be slippery. If you don't think you
Many sections of this trail have been can manage, let your porters give you a hand
widened enough to allow sunshine through, or carry you across. They are tough chaps,
drying up the mud below, but elsewhere the well able to carry even an overweight body
trail is just a narrow footpath—especially on across a waist-high raging river with only
the steepest inclines. Even in the driest sea- loose, slippery stones as footholds for their
son, June and July, there is always the chance bare feet. (Make sure someone gets a photo!)
of a shower, lasting a couple of hours or Even if you can make it across on your own,
more. And after a good rain, there will be the lift prevents wet boots or wasted time tak-
mud (not very deep). But, unless you have ing your boots off and putting them on again.
absolutely awful luck, day-long rainfall is most Along the trail there are many places to
unlikely. On the contrary, chances are better drink clear mountain water but take a canteen
for sunburn. Bring a wide-brimmed hat, long for those stretches of two hours or more
sleeves and pants, and sunscreen. under the hot sun. And have your guide bring
The level distance between Karubaga and along some pineapples, delicious at break-
Wamena—through Wunin, Bokondini, Kelila, time. Keep your camera handy, because you
Tagime and Pyramid—is just 70 kilometers. will often meet locals along the way. Only one
But this does not account for laboring up the word of the Western Dani language suffices
mountainsides or easing one's way down the for close encounters: Wah!
incline on the other side. A strong hiker can
Wunin
make it in three days (the Danis do it in a day
or two), but it is much better to allow yourself Get an early start, 8 a.m. at the latest, and in
four or five days. Then you can enjoy the six easy hours you will reach Wunin. The
changing scenery, take lots of breaks and early start is important—each day begins
photos, and arrive at your sleeping destina- with an uphill climb (towns are generally in
tion early enough to bathe, relax and dine
during daylight. Opposite: The spectacular Baliem Gorge, south
While tennis shoes will probably do, hik- of Kurima. Above: A group of Dani girls at
ing boots offer ankle support, keep mud out Wunin. Dani women do not wear the distinctive
of your toes and grip better on slippery sur- low-slung skirts until they marry. Until then,
faces. Some rivers are spanned by bridges, they wear grass skirts such as these.
140 THE HIGHLANDS
valleys) and you don't want to be making this are usually put up on a complimentary basis.
during the heat of the day. If you are too sore to continue the nex
From the edge of the Karubaga plateau day, r e s t up for 24 h o u r s . Get your legs
the trail drops to a river, with a well-main- rubbed with oil and crushed red onions. Have
tained, rattan and cable bridge. Most of the your guide organize a festival. If there an
floor planks are in place. After the crossing, several members in your group, it's not ver}
be ready for a two-hour climb. The slopes, expensive—say $200. The price depends or
near and far, are covered with gardens and the size and number of pigs killed as well as
highlands forests. Once the climb is over, you the number of participants.
pass through a village of thatched huts. This In the "show" my guide organized, three
signals the beginning of two hours of flat pigs were killed ($75) and about 140 men anc
trekking. Towards the end of this part of the women took part, all in traditional dress. The
stroll, Wunin will appear, but it's further than guide got things going by visiting four Dan
it looks. First a long drop, then a river cross- compounds at daybreak, and by 8:30 a.m
ing on a solid bridge, and finally a short level things were underway.
stretch before Wunin comes back into view. First the tribesmen dug a pit about one
Another short drop and you are crossing the meter deep and 1.5 meters long and then
Warom River, the last before Wunin. The nearby, arranged huge armfuls of firewooc
river makes an excellent place for a swim into a rectangular pile and covered the pyre
before the short climb to Wunin village. with stones. The traditional method, rubbing
The altitude here, 1,460 meters, is just a tough liana against a piece of softwood
slightly higher than Karubaga. Wunin is dom- started the fire. When the firewood under the
inated by a h u g e airstrip, flatter than stones was blazing, each pig was held by twe
Karubaga's, T which receives sporadic MAF men while a third shot an arrow into its hean
flights when building materials or supplies from close range. Bamboo knives quickly cui
are urgently needed. The village hugs one up the meat. After the pigs were dispatched
side of the airstrip. All the buildings are the Dani lined the pit with leaves, and ther
"modern"—clean, tin-roofed and without with stones that had been heated in the fire
character. The inevitable church, school and More leaves were laid over the stones, anc
teachers' houses hold together this tiny mis- then sweet potatoes and chunks of pork.
sion-built village. During clear weather, the While the food steam-baked for two tc
upper end of the landing field affords a fine three hours, the men and women danced anc
view of the brooding mountains. whooped, yelling and singing with abandon
At Wunin you can sleep at a school- T h e men organized themselves into twe
teacher's house, but first take a look at the teams and staged an enthusiastic mock battle
bed offered and agree to a price. Expect to with plant stems as spears. A few of the mer
pay about $3 per person, but you might have were superbly decorated with soot and pig
to bargain. Forget about sit-down toilets—a grease, white lime paint, flowers, cuscus fui
little outhouse over a hole in the ground is and feathers. Everyone had a good time, anc
standard. You can relieve yourself anywhere I took plenty of photos before the food was
away from the houses, preferably at night. cooked and divided among the participants.
Commissioning a Dani festival On to Bokondini
There are also several Dani compounds just From Wunin, it's a flat stretch for a half houi
off the main trail, which starts at the upper before coming to the mountain at the head ol
end of the landing field, w h e r e you can the valley. Another half hour and you read]
overnight in a honai or men's house. The the topside forest and begin a nice, shaded
huts have no beds, but soft grass on the floor stretch. The trail touches the edge of an artifi
makes a decent mattress. (Foreign women cial lake, a fairyland opening in the high ;
are also allowed to sleep in the huts.) A cen- misty forest. The water is stocked with carp
tral fire, double wood walls, and a number of and tilapia. An hour of hiking brings you tc
bodies ward off night time chills. The disad- the top of the long drop to the Bokondini
vantages of a Dani hut include the possibility Valley. If the weather is clear, the looming
of fleas or ticks. And it can get quite smoky, mountains appear through openings in the
but it is usually not too bad if you keep your
head close to the floor, and stay away from Opposite: An arrow shot at close range is the
the door. Pay $l-$2 per person for the honai traditional way to dispatch a pig. This one
stay. Dani guests (your guides and porters) became roast pork for a feast at Wunin.
TREK FROM KARUBAGA 141
forest. At the bottom of the mountain is a missionary flights. From Kelila you face the
stream that makes a perfect resting place for trip's toughest climb, 2 to 3 hours uphill on a
weary knees. Then it's flat again for a while wide road to the top of the pass.
before dropping down to the Bogo River Here you are on the island's divide. The
below Bokondini. There is no bridge here, w a t e r s h e d to the n o r t h drains into the
but your porters will either built a temporary Memberamo and the Pacific; to the south all
one or carry you across. A short, steep climb the rivers head to the Baliem and the Arafura
ends at the little town and center of the area, Sea. The wonderful view of the southern val-
Bokondini—six easy hours from Wunin. ley is your reward as your k n e e s take a
The urban "center" of Bokondini resem- pounding during the 1.5 to 2 hours downhill
bles Karubaga, but with an important differ- to Tagime, a 6-hour day. The pastor in Tagime
ence. A Cessna plane owned by MAF has its runs a guesthouse.
home base here, along with its pilot and mis- From Tagime, it is an easy 3 hours to
sionaries. They live in neat wooden alpine Pyramid, the missionary center at the head of
houses surrounded by fences, lawns and flow- the Baliem Valley. From Pyramid, you can
ers—in the American style. Don't expect mis- catch a flight (10 minutes) to Wamena. Or
sionary hospitality—they are not in the busi- continue to Kimbim, one hour further. The
ness of putting up hikers. T r y a school- camat (subdistrict head) has guest rooms
teacher or the infirmary staff house, just where, for $5 a day, you can room and board.
across from the clinic {rumah sakit). Again, Kimbim requires a police stop.
look over the facilities and agree on a price From Kimbim, Landcruisers and trucks
before settling in and reporting to the police take passengers to Wamena once or twice a
with passport and suratjalan. week for $2 a head ($60 for a chartered ride).
You can also walk, flat but hot, another 4-6
Back to Wamena
hours to Sinatma, where there is regular
Try to get the earliest possible start out of bemo service to Wamena.
Bokondini because there is a long day ahead. Or walk across the valley to the Baliem
The first part is easy: a stroll of some two and River, cross on a small raft or a canoe, and
a half hours with little climbing and one solid from Uwosilimo, just on the other side, take
bridge-crossing lands you in Kelila, another a public minibus to Wamena. Minibuses from
center where you report again to the police. Uwosilimo make the r u n several times a
Kelila has a regular Merpati flight once a day, and t h e fare is less than $1 ( $ 1 5 -
week (on Friday) to Wamena, and occasional $20 charter).
PARTY
The Asmat
Region
The tidal swamplands of West Papua's south Fewer than 1,500 people live in Agats.
coast are one of the best-known, but also Small-time merchants and traders, shark's fin
least accessible parts of the island. This is the fishermen, and dealers in ironwood form the
land of the Asmat, now world-famous for their economic base. The businessmen are all
spectacular wood carvings, and previously from western Indonesia, mostly Bugis from
notorious as head-hunters and cannibals. South Sulawesi. The Catholic mission has its
The Asmat found themselves on the front headquarters here, as well as schools, the
pages of newspapers worldwide in 1961, Asmat museum and a sawmill.
when Michael C. Rockefeller, son of the then The Asmat Museum of Culture and
governor of New York, disappeared here. Progress should be the first stop for any visi-
Rockefeller was collecting art for the New tor. The mission has accumulated a very
York Museum of Primitive Art when his boat, good collection of Asmat art, and everything
an underpowered contraption consisting of is accompanied by clear and informative
two lashed-together dugouts, encountered explanations.
the swift tidal bore at the mouth of the Betsj Visiting the Asmat region around Agats
River and overturned. requires hiring a dugout canoe and guide,
Some people (and all of the yellow press) and sleeping at night on the bark floor of a
assumed Rockefeller had been captured and jeu, the long, raised men's huts that serve as
killed by the Asmat Cooler heads suggested the architectural and cultural centers of
that the strong, unpredictable tides and croc- Asmat villages.
odiles were likelier villains. A small, but com- In the villages, you can watch wood-
mitted minority thought that the governor's carvers at work, see how canoes are hol-
son "went native" and still lived, and more lowed out and decorated, and generally look
than one adventurer went off toward this around the place and chat with your hosts.
great island to find Michael Rockefeller. Everywhere, small carvings, bone knives,
Until very recently, the Asmat area was bags and other crafted items will be offered.
closed to visitors, and the infrastructure for You may be able to organize a visit to the
tourism is still very limited. Fuel, bottled water sago fields (often quite far from the village)
and other staples are shockingly expensive where you can watch the operation of felling
here, and many other items (insect repellant, the trees and washing out the starch.
suntan lotion) are simply unavailable. There If you get lucky, you might even stumble
are no telephones anywhere in the region, onto a festival, accompanied by night-long
and news filters in through radios. drumming and dancing, feasts of sago grubs,
At the time of this writing, air service was special carvings and general high spirits.
very unreliable. If you are on a tight sched- There are many occasions for celebrations—a
ule, do not go to the Asmat region unless you new jeu, carving of bisj poles, rites of pas-
are on a group tour with a chartered airplane. sage—but they are rather infrequent and the
The capital of the Asmat region is Agats, a timing is sporadic. But you could always
small town on Flamingo Bay. Because of the organize your own festival, and for a reason-
tides, the entire town is built on stilts, and the able fee commission a canoe demonstration,
"streets" are plank walkways. Despite the or drumming and dancing.
name, it is not a very charming place.
Visitors should come with a serious interest Overleaf: Heading back to Agats at sunset on
in Asmat culture and a willingness to tolerate Flamingo Bay. Opposite: Drummers at a festival
mud and heat and insects. to dedicate a new jeu house in Biwar Laut.
146 THE ASMAT REGION
Artists and
New York at the Museum of Primitive Art.
His partner on this collection trip was
Rene Wassing, a Dutch expert familiar with
Former
Asmat art who was to help Rockefeller
choose the best pieces. The two hired a cou-
ple of Asmat guides, Simon and Leo, and
obtained an outboard-powered catamaran.
gathered and need not be tended at all. ing, healthy children, smooth social rela
Almost nothing of the tree is wasted. The tions—requires a proper relationship with
bark, split into strips, is used as flooring, the the spirits. Asmat life and art are directed al
leaf ribs serve as walls, and the leaves them- balancing and appeasing these spirits.
selves are woven into thatch. And, for ritual In such a hostile environment, death
occasions, a fresh tree is cut, poked full of never came about from old age. Life, in this
holes, and left as an incubator for beetle lar- system, comes only from the death of another
vae. A month or so later, the fattened grubs human. A human head is a powerful source oi
are collected and eaten with gusto. spiritual energy, and at times of crisis or spiri-
Traditionally, the Asmat kept no domestic tual depletion, many were needed to rebuild
animals except dogs. Missionaries have tried the community.
to introduce chickens and ducks with limited Before head-hunting ended, the skull of a
success. Protein and other nutrition is provid- deceased relative, particularly one who was a
ed by the shrimp and small mudfish that successful warrior in life, provided the best
women seine from the creeks, as well as protection against malevolent spirits. At
clams, crabs, snakes, lizards, small mammals night, this provided the most "secure" pil-
and birds, including the large cassowaries. low— as it was during sleep that one was
most vulnerable to the supernatural world.
According to Father Gerardus A. Zegwaard,
a missionary who arrived in Agats in 1952
and wrote the seminal study of Asmat head-
hunting practices, 'The human head captured
at war is believed to possess a germinative
power comparable to the fallen seeds of
trees." The heads, he writes, were hung in
the sago grounds to promote good harvests.
Head-hunting is of course today consid-
ered an intolerable practice, and has been
banned for decades. But this ban caused
great instability in Asmat culture. Many peo-
ple died in head-hunting raids, and it created
a constant atmosphere of fear.
But head-hunting was never as frequent or
destructive a practice as one might assume.
At its height, anthropologists have estimated
that 1-2 percent of the Asmat population year-
ly died in raids. Even today, malaria is respon-
sible for almost 20 percent of the total mortal-
ity in the province. Infant mortality in parts of
the Asmat region is more than 65 per hun-
dred. Outbreaks of cholera and other diseases
are distressingly common.
Until metal pots were introduced by out-
The jeu houses
siders, the only method of cooking was roast-
ing over the fire, and this is still preferred. Asmat villages were typically built at the bend
Strangely, there is not a single stone in the of a river to keep a lookout for canoes carry-
Asmat land. In the past, the Asmat obtained ing incoming raiders. (Most still are.) To
fully-formed stone tools from upriver groups, increase their safety, villages were large,
trading sago, shells, jewelry, lime (for color- housing several clans with a population in the
ing) , cassowary bone tools and bird of par- hundreds. Each clan owned and maintained a
adise feathers for the precious items. large jeu, sometimes reaching 90 meters in
length. These long, rectangular houses faced
Head-hunting and spirits the river and had many doors, each leading to
The world of the Asmat is alive with spirits. a fire pit located against the back wall.
Animals, trees, even whirlpools and eddies in These men's houses were the focus of all
rivers are possessed of a power beyond man's social life, and fulfilled essential religious and
direct reckoning. The success of an Asmat social functions. The organization of the fire-
community—good sago harvests and hunt- places denoted status, and the jeu was the
THE ASMAT 149
political and religious center of the village. of the central coast. Some are now very rare,
Here is where important decisions (such as such as the shield feast. The one a visitor is
whether to carry out a raid) were made, most likely to encounter is the jeu pokmbu,
where the carvings were crafted, and where the dedication ceremony for a new jeu.
festival drumming and dancing took place. Asmat feasts are days-long affairs accom-
Women do not enter the huts (although today panied by drumming, dancing, and eating.
this rule is said to have loosened up in some Some, such as the mask feast, are associated
areas). They live in small, individual family with rites of passage, and include, for exam-
huts, built on piles between the jeus. ple, specific instructions and rites designed to
In 1964, t h e Indonesian g o v e r n m e n t bring a group of boys to manhood.
banned traditional celebrations and carvings In the days of head-hunting, the most
throughout the Asmat region, and ordered important food was the brains of the victims,
the destruction of the jeus, burning many of cooked and mixed with sago grubs. Today,
them down. The men's houses were consid- the sago grubs alone serve this function. The
ered unsanitary, politically suspect (head- rich larvae are solely a ceremonial food, and
hunting raids, for example, were plotted in while the artists are preparing the woodcarv-
the jeu) and just plain backward. The Catholic ings for the festival, the grubs are being incu-
missionaries counseled against these mea-
sures, but the program went ahead.
The destruction of the jeus removed one
of the most secure sociological and psycho-
logical anchors for the Asmat, who, with out-
side involvement in their affairs and land,
were already facing a crisis. Villages split up,
and many families went further upriver and
deeper into the forest, living in shelters far
from the eyes of the government.
The eradication program peaked in the
late 1960s. From 1968 to 1974, the Asmat Art
Project, a collaboration between the United
Nations and the Indonesian department of
small industries, helped rebuild the cultural
roots of the Asmat. But it was the Catholic
mission in particular that can be credited with
reestablishing Asmat culture. Today, carving
is commonplace, almost all villages have jeus,
and grand festivals (like the bisj pole ceremo-
ny) are once again being celebrated.
Ceremonial life
In the past, head-hunting provided a kind of
energy and climax to the Asmat ritual cycle,
and with its ending—and the government ban bated in sago trunks felled for this purpose.
on ceremonies—many villages withdrew from Within Asmat culture, the phallus or tje-
ritual life. In the past decade, however, Asmat men ("chemen") represents life, power and
ritual life has experienced a noticeable renais- regeneration. The tjemen of various carv-
sance. (See also "Asmat Art," page 152.) ings—particularly the bisj poles—is central
The Asmat celebrate five general cate- and often exaggerated in size.
gories of festivals: jeu pokmbu, the feast for a During times of great crisis, such as the
new jew, bisj mbu, the feast for which bisj arrival of a steam ship, an epidemic of dis-
("beesh") poles are carved; tsji mbu, the feast ease, a large and devastating raid, or any
for which numerous canoes are carved; jipae other event of imponderable dimensions, an
or mbi pokrnbu, the costume feast, for which Asmat community would engage in an orgy of
full-length mask costumes are made; and the
jamasj pokmbu, the shield feast. Opposite and above: Clamshell nosepieces,
Some of these are regional, for example hats of cuscus and cockatoo feathers and
the bisj feast, which takes place only among other ornaments are de rigueur at Asmat
the Bisjmam (literally "bisj-makers") villages festivals. These men are from Biwar Laut.
150 THE A SIM AT REGION
sexual activity. During this mass papisj I After Cook's experience, the Asmat were
("papeesh"), men and women would have sex left alone for a half century, until 1827, when
with their own spouses and many others. Lieutenant D.H. Kolff sailed by in the Dourga.
These orgies occur, writes one missionary He blamed exploitation by Seramese traders
scholar, because an "enormous flow of semi- for the disposition of the Asmat. The follow-
nal fluid was necessary to obtain an end ing year, a Dutch explorer named de
beyond the reach of normal behavior." Rochemont landed briefly at Flamingo Bay.
Papisj does not always—or in fact often— In 1902, the establishment of the Dutch
take the form of mass orgies. The more usual colonial government post and military detach-
form of papisj involves an occasional, tempo- ment at Merauke gave a secure base for inland
rary wife exchange. Two men who are very explorations. The first foray into the Central
good friends will become papisj partners, a Asmat region took place in 1904, and between
relationship that lasts for life. At each instance 1903 and 1917 several expeditions sponsored
of having sex with their friend's spouse, the by the Royal Netherlands Geographical
wives (who must have already borne children) Society set out to chart West Papua's rivers
must agree, and both husbands must be in and mountains, sometimes passing through
the village. The exchange lasts for one night, Asmat territory on the way inland.
and is preceded and followed by a somewhat After 1925, when the colonial government
ritualized preparation of food. inaugurated its post in Kokonau, in Mimikan
^ . .. A , . land, contact with the Asmat became more
Europeans in the Asmat region \ , , ^u ..« , £ <• . -,,
^ ^ frequent. These were still far from friendly.
The first European to meet the Asmat was The Mimikans were terrified of the Asmat,
Captain James Cook, who stopped for water and frequent raids made this a far from irra-
at present-day Cook's Bay on the Casuarina tional fear. In 1928, an Asmat raiding party hit
Coast near Primapun. According to his jour- the village of Atuka, taking a number of heads
nal entry on September 3,1770, he and two of and stealing everything in sight, including
his officers went ashore in a small boat, but the merchandise in a Chinese-owned store
had not gone more than 200 yards before 3-4 and the nails from the school benches.
hostile-looking men e m e r g e d from the With the Dutch around, however, this raid
woods. Cook fired, and the men disappeared, was to be avenged. Two years later, a war
but the English explorer decided to head party of 400 Asmat was caught in an ambush.
back to the ship. As he did, 60-100 men in With the Mimikans, bent on revenge, at one
canoes appeared to chase his pinnace back. I end, and the Dutch colonial police—armed
THE AS MAT 151
World-Class
New Guinea's other famous artists are the
people of the Sepik river in northern Papua
New Guinea. Dr. Carleton Gajdusek, Nobel
Traditional
prize winner in medicine, has concluded
based on blood typing that the Asmat and the
Sepik are related. He postulates that the
Asmat left the Sepik river area at least several
Rickety
submerged. This is not really the best season
to visit.
When the tide is out, mud remains. At this
Capital of the
time the little mudskipper fish quarrel over
their territories, and small orange and blue
crabs scuttle about The boys are out in force
then, armed with homemade slingshots, pow-
church looks after the worldly needs of the region's only high school. Financed by the
Asmat as well as the spiritual ones. Thanks to Asmat Foundation out of Jakarta, there are
its efforts, while there are many schools now teacher's quarters, classrooms, dormitories,
in the Asmat region, the area's best and a main hall for carving and cultural train-
education is still to be found in Agats. ing and demonstrations.
Plans for the rest of the complex look like
The Asmat Museum
something meant for Bali or Waikiki Beach.
It is perhaps in the field of cultural preserva- There is a bar, a sports center and even a
tion that the Crosier Fathers and Brothers swimming pool. This part of the center is
deserve the most credit. It would be difficult being funded by the deep pockets of Freeport
to find a more liberal and intelligent group of Indonesia, and so far some U.S. $700,000—a
clerics anywhere. The missionaries have veritable fortune in these parts—has been
actively encouraged the retention of most of slated for the construction.
the essential elements of Asmat culture (with The appropriateness of all this has been
the notable exception of head-hunting and questioned by locals. The lavish use of red-
cannibalism), even in the face of governmen- wood (which has become very scarce here)
tal pressure. in building has been questioned, as has the
Although this is not immediately evident durability of the swamp cedar posts support-
on the surface of things—the Asmat now ing the building. These materials have never
wear clothes and rituals are not a daily occur- been used to construct such a large edifice,
rence—it is obvious in the preservation of and under the best of circumstances, the
fine woodcarving. Literally tons of junk art insect and rot resistant cedar posts last only
are produced, bought up for pennies apiece 10 years. The style and scale of the building
by Bugis and Chinese middlemen. This is makes replacing these an almost impossible
subsequently shipped to western Indonesia job. Anyway, only time will tell. If the center
where it is sold to tourists. This is not simple comes about as planned, Agats will quickly
exploitation. The price most visitors will pay, become a very different town from today's
coupled with the unwieldy scale of traditional small and easygoing village.
Asmat carvings, conspire against fine crafts-
A trip down the coast
manship and art.
But beneath this torrent of mass-produced Other than to see the museum and to stock
junk, Asmat woodcarving survives, in large up on supplies, there is really no reason to
degree thanks to the church. The Crosiers spend much time in Agats. If you have time to
occasionally commission pieces, made in the spare, take the boardwalk to Sjuruh (Seeyoo-
context of feasting and ritual. The finest of roo) village, less than 15 minutes' walk, past
these art pieces are on permanent display the Cathedral of the Sacred Heart. The raised
across the boardwalk from the mission head- plank walkway, which along several stretches
quarters in Agats. here is always in need of repair, spans a creek
T h e Asmat M u s e u m of Culture and and crosses part of Sjuru village, ending at
Progress is a "must" for all visitors. The the water.
museum was inaugurated in 1973 by Bishop There's dijeu set back towards the Aswetsj
Sowada, partly with money from the Michael River, next to the church, but getting there
Rockefeller Fund. On display is an excellent requires a long balancing act over logs and
selection of different objects from various planks. Canoes lie in the tidal creek close to
regions. Shields and large monumental carv- the walkway, as well as in the river. Sjuru is a
ings, mask costumes, small items like bowls good place to organize a trip up the coast, to
and bamboo h o r n s , and even decorated the nearby Bisjmam villages of Jepem, Per,
ancestor and trophy heads are represented. Owus and Beriten.
The catalog, which explains the provenance If you go there early enough, you might
and context of each piece, is excellent, having be able to arrange a trip for the same day. But
b e e n written and illustrated by Tobias it is more likely that you can set things up for
Schneebaum. the following day. Ask for Demianus, if he is
around. But if not, you could certainly find
The Asmat Center
other willing paddlers.
The Pusat Asmat is a large educational and Demianus and a crew of four more pad-
cultural center just north of town. Follow the
boards out and you will encounter a large Opposite: A shark fishing boat at Agats. The
open hall with two long wings housing the fins are dried and sold to the Chinese market.
AGATS 161
dlers picked us up at the old Agats dock early and small waves rocked us gently as we skirt-
one afternoon. We would have left earlier, but ed the coast, meeting an occasional canoe out
we had to make our ritual pilgrimage to Ewer, for an afternoon's fishing or heading to the
where Merpati pulled its fourth consecutive "big city" of Agats. In a couple of hours we
no-show in a row. turned into a creek and landed at the village
The canoe was a long one, with its sides of Jepem.
curved inward high above the water line. A
Jepem village
long plank had been laid down for the three
of us — long enough to stretch out if we Just as we balanced our way out of the canoe
wished. The prow was carved, as well as and over a long log, one of our party recog-
parts of the inner gunwales: on each side, for- nized a handsome elderly man, an excellent
ward, a man was strangling a snake; aft, two carver whom she had met the previous year.
men were trying to chin-up over the canoe's Unfortunately, he had not received the photos
edge. These little men watched over us. she had sent to him six months ago, but he
The men worked standing, Asmat-fashion, was still obviously happy to see her—and
with four-meter oars. Two men forward, held her hand for all of the hour or so we
three aft, dipping their paddles in unison with spent at Jepem.
barely a splash, scraping lightly against the After a stroll through the village, escorted
hull, then lifting them out together for a sec- by every child between the ages of three and
ond's rest. A steady, powerful rhythm sped us ten, we returned to the creekside jeu where
along the Aswetsj River, then along the coast our canoe was tied up. The long men's house
to the south. After our earlier trip spent listen- was raised on a series of low piles, these
ing to the constant buzz of the 40 HP out- carved with some v e r y nice figures.
board, this silence, interrupted only by the Unfortunately, the small carvings we had
paddling, was like magic. been offered here were not very good.
Occasionally one of the men broke out in The people of Jepem were all pleasant and
song, a few chanted phrases followed by a smiling, willing to answer questions. The men
strong, sustained note with just a hint of did a lot of carving here, and at the time we
tremolo. These songs, Demianus said, told of visited were planning a bisj festival. Many
women mourning men who had died in bat- men would work on this carving and it would
tle, of slain fathers and brothers, and of the require three months' preparation, culminat-
love of a handsome warrior for a beautiful ing in feasting (including lots of sago grubs),
maiden. Flights of birds crossed overhead drumming, singing and dancing.
162 THE ASMAT REGION
Through the
As we buzzed upriver at about 12 kilome-
ters an hour, the shoreline vegetation under-
went several changes. The species of trees
Asmat Lands
changed, as the water became less brackish.
Small birds performed acrobatic acts for us
and occasional flocks of noisy lories crossed
overhead. Except for a very few huts on stilts,
ly. There were also some spears for sale. the men showed us were not appealing. We
Using a wooden mallet and chisel, a man was pushed off, crossed the Siretsj and took a
sculpting the projecting prowhead of a new small river south, to the wide Betsj River. A
canoe. Several almost complete canoes were large village stood around the first bend.
lying around, awaiting finishing touches.
Atsj: woodcarving center
Out of nowhere, an Asmat man in a safari
suit demanded peremptorily to see our travel The village of Atsj Catch") is the largest in
permits. Until this unpleasant chap came the Asmat region, with more than 2,000
around (nobody else seemed to like him people. (Note: Indonesianization of the spelling
much, either) everyone had been friendly, all has led to "Atsy," which has in turn prompted
smiles and cooperation for our photos, and an Indonesian pronunciation, "at-see.")
happy to smoke a cigarette and tell us about Atsj is a lumber center with a small sawmill
their village. Not interested in being pushed and numerous tin-roofed houses. The board-
around by this petty officer, I told him in walks here are in better repair than those in
Indonesian to go take his grievance up with Agats. The many Bugis and Javanese living
our Uzi-packing policeman. He disappeared here give it a non-Asmat look. We had coffee,
as quickly as he had made his entrance. cookies and an instant-noodle lunch at the
home of the local policeman, an affable man
Amborep: modern town
who keeps crocodiles in his back yard. We
When Linda finished her purchases we con- then walked over to watch the woodcarvers,
tinued on the Powet River to where it met the as Atsj is a well-known carving center.
Siretsj, at Amborep (pop. 738). This place had The items produced here are of a new
a much more "modern" look than Warse, with style that began with the introduction of pit-
better walkways, several outhouses and not a saws and hardwood planks. Called ajour,
jeu in sight. these are openwork sculptures taken from a
The people of this village, involved for two single board of Intsia wood. This style has
decades in lumbering activities, moved their evolved, and several men were working on
village to its present site in 1973. A year after small ancestor poles, miniature bisj of hard-
settling in, Amborep held a bisj festival, the wood. All the hardwood figures are for the
first one allowed by the government after it tourist market. These figures are occasionally
rescinded its ban on large feasts and cere- sold to passing tourists for $25 or more, but
monies. But we saw little evidence of tradi- the bulk of the production goes to Bugis mer-
tional life at Amborep and the crafted items chants, who pay some $10-$12 per piece.
164 THE ASMAT REGION
Each takes about 18-20 hours to carve, but it laces, knives and a few drums for sale. As
is not hard work. Although we have seen nice Linda was doing the buying, she became the
modern hardwood carvings in the museum, focus of attention, leaving us to chat with out
none of those we saw here was very good. hosts. One man was particularly talkative.
We were rather disappointed with the This was Mohammed, an Asmat from Biwar
place. Then a distinguished looking man Laut who had converted to Islam during a
came up and introduced himself as Ari long stay in Ternate. Feeling like a bit of an
Markus, the chief of Biwar Laut village. He outsider himself, perhaps he needed to talk to
needed a ride back home, and thought we the outsiders.
might like to witness a jeu pokmbu, the festi- The drumming and singing resumed after
val to dedicate a new jeu. Of course, we dinner, this time around a fire in front of the
accepted his offer immediately. In less than jeu. Just a few diehards kept up the tradition
an hour we were pulling up to Biwar Laut. As of all-night drumming (and this was the sec-
soon as the engine shut down, we knew we ond day of the festival). Eventually we retired
had made the right move. to the jeu, listened to the BBC and drifted ofi
to sleep on the springy bark and branch floor.
Biwar Laut: the new jeu
When we awoke around 5 a.m., the drum-
We could hear drumming and singing com- ming was much louder, and a quick glance
ing out of the jeu, perched on a forest of stilts, outside revealed a full complement of men
10 meters back from the bank of the small and boys in the faint pre-dawn light. Soon
Jiwe river. The new jeu was decorated with a after, the playing stopped. The inauguration
fringe of leaf strips from the top of the front of the jeu had been completed.
porch area running the length of the building.
A muddy morning
Canoe paddles, each covered with a sheath of
white cockatoo feathers, projected from the When we walked over to the river, we were
roof, giving it a festive appearance. We shocked. The wide stream we had come in on
walked up a plank to the narrow front porch. was reduced to a trough of mud, with barely a
We could hear the drumming and singing trickle down the middle. As we drank our
from the river, but entering one of the door- morning coffee, Ari Markus came by, and I
ways, we were immediately struck by the asked him if we could hire ten of his men to
scene. A couple of the men glanced up at us, paddle one of the large canoes for pho-
but everyone went about the ritual without tographs. We bargained a bit and settled on
paying attention to the three white persons $3 per man for a quick run.
who had just entered. I asked Ari Markus,
who had followed us into the jeu, if photogra-
phy was allowed, and he said I was welcome
to take as many as I liked.
I went about my work with glee. David's
flash self-destructed after one pop, so I even
had a willing assistant. No one minded as I
stepped around seated men and wormed my
way to good shooting angles. Some shifted to
let me through, others turned slightly so I
could have a better shot. After I worked my
way through a couple of rolls, I could no
longer contain my joy. As a song ended with
its fast drum rhythm, I too danced the wiggly-
kneed Asmat Charleston, to roars of approv-
ing laughter. At dusk, the singing ended, and
the men went home for supper.
Markus invited us to spend the night in
the jeu and disappeared into the night. We
settled on the front porch and ate some noo-
dles and sardines with Amhier, washed down
with coffee. As we commented on the day's
events, men came out of the d a r k n e s s ,
entered the jeu, then shyly approached us
from nearby doorways to offer seed neck-
VISITING THE AS MAT 165
The Republic of Indonesia is the world's fourth trade. The VOC was declared bankrupt in 1799,
largest country, with 210 million people. The vast and a Dutch colonial government was established.
majority (88%) are Muslims, making this the Anti-colonial uprisings began in the the early
world's largest Islamic country. More than 400 20th century, when nationalist movements were
languages are spoken, but Bahasa Indonesia, founded by various Muslim, communist and stu-
a variant of Malay, is the national language. dent groups. Sukarno, a Dutch-educated natio-
The nation is a republic, headed by a nalist, was jailed by the Dutch in 1930.
President, with a 500-member legislature and a Early in 1942, the Dutch Indies were overrun
700-member People's Consultative Assembly. by the Japanese army. Treatment by the occu-
There are 26 provinces and special territories. piers was harsh. When Japan saw her fortunes
The capital is Jakarta, with 9 million people. The waning toward the end of the war, Indonesian
archipelago comprises just over 2 million square nationalists were encouraged to organize. On
km of land. Of 18,508 islands, about 6,000 are August 17, 1945, Sukarno proclaimed Indone-
named, and 1,000 permanently inhabited. sia's independence.
Indonesia's $175 billion gross national prod- The Dutch sought a return to colonial rule after
uct comes from oil, textiles, lumber, mining, the war. Four years of fighting ensued between
agriculture and manufacturing. The country's nationalists and the Dutch, and full independence
largest trading partner is Japan. Per capita income was achieved in 1949.
is $460. Much of the population still makes a During the 1950s and early 1960s, President
living through agriculture, chiefly rice. The unit Sukarno's government moved steadily to the left,
of currency is the rupiah, which trades at approxi- alienating western governments. On Septem-
mately Rp9,000 to $ 1 (as of end of 2000). ber 30,1965 the army put down an attempted
Historical overview. The Buddhist Sriwijaya coup attributed to the communist party. Several
empire, based in southeastern Sumatra, con- hundred thousand people were killed as sus-
trolled parts of western Indonesia from the 7th pected communists.
to the 13th centuries. The Hindu Majapahit king- The powers of the presidency gradually shifted
dom, based in eastern Java, controlled even more away from Sukarno and General Suharto be-
from the 13th to the 16th centuries. Beginning came president in 1968. His administration
in the mid-13th century, local rulers began con- was friendly to foreign investment and brought
verting to Islam. about three decades of economic growth.
In the early 17th century the Dutch East India The Asian financial crisis of 1997 and ensu-
Company (VOC) founded trading settlements ing political turmoil have led the country to its first
and quickly wrested control of the Indies spice democratically elected administration in 1999.
CONTENTS 167
1
On The Road
TRAVEL ADVISORY, TRANSPORTATION, PRACTICALITIES
The following On The Road sections contain all the practical knowledge you need for
your journey. Travel Advisory provides all the non-transport information: facts about
Indonesia, from the economy and health precautions to bathroom etiquette. It is fol- 2
lowed by a handy language primer. The Transportation section deals exclusively with
transportation: getting to Indonesia and traveling in West Papua.
The Practicalities sections focus on each destination and have all the local details
on transport, accommodation, dining, the arts, trekking, shopping and services, plus
maps. These sections are organized by area and correspond to Parts II to VII in the
first half of the guide. The margin tabs make cross-referencing simple and fast.
Kaimana 204
Travel Advisory 168
3
Tourist Information, Visas 168 4 Highlands Practicalities 205
Health 173
Wamena 205
Security, SuratJalan 178
•WAMENA TOWN MAP 206
Accommodations 180
Climbing Puncak Jaya 209
Climbing Mt. Trikora 210
Transportation 184
Yali Highlands 210 4
• MAP OF MERPATI ROUTES 186-187
• MAPOFPELNI ROUTES 188-189 5 limika Practicalites
•TIMIKAAREA MAP 212
Indonesian Language Primer 190 Kamoro 214
6 Asmat Practicalites 5
•AGATS MAP 218
7 Merauke Practicalities
Manokwari 200
• MANOKWARI MAP 200
Sorong 202 7
Fakfak 203
Kokas 204
168 PRACTICALITY s
Travel Advisory
Argentina Iceland Philippines
TOURIST INFORMATION Australia Ireland Saudi Arabia
Austria Italy Singapore
Overseas, you can contact the Indonesian em- Belguim Japan South Korea
bassy or consulate, or one of the following Brazil Kuwait Spain
Indonesia Tourist Promotion Board offices: Brunei Liechtenstein Sweden
ASEAN & Southeast Asia, 10 Collyer Quay Canada Luxembourg Switzerland
# 1 5 - 0 7 , Ocean Building, Singapore 0104. Chile Malaysia Taiwan
« (65) 534-2837, fax: (65) 533-4287. Denmark Maldives Thailand
Australia & New Zealand, Level 10, 5 Elizabeth Egypt Malta Turkey
Street, Sydney NSW 2000, Australia. © (612) Finland Mexico United Arab
233-3630, fax: (61 2) 233-3629, 357-3478. France Monaco Emirates
Europe, Wiesenhuttenstrasse 17, D-6000 Frank- Germany Morocco United Kingdom
furt/Main 1 , Germany, s (49 169) 233-677, Greece Netherlands United States
fax: (49 169) 230-840. Hungary New Zealand Venezuela
Japan & Korea, Sankaido Building, 2nd Floor, Norway Yugoslavia
1-9-13 Ahasaka, Minatoku, Tokyo 107. s ( 8 1 Be sure to check your passport before leav-
3) 3585-3588, fax: (81 3) 3582-1397. ing for Indonesia. You must have at least one
North America , 3457 Wilshire Boulevard, Los empty page to be stamped upon arrival and the
Angeles, CA 90010-2203. n (213) 387-2078, passport must be valid for at least six months
fax: (213) 380-4876. after the date of arrival. For visa-free entry, you
Taiwan & Hong Kong, 66 Sung Chiang Road, must also have proof of onward journey, either
5th Floor, Taipei, Taiwan, s (886 2) 537-7620. a return or through ticket. Employment is strictly
Fax: (886 2) 537-7621. forbidden on tourist visas or visa-free entry.
United Kingdom, Ireland, Benelux & Scandi- Visa-free entry to Indonesia cannot be ex-
navia, 3-4 Hanover Street, London W1R 9HH. tended beyond two months (60 days) and can-
« ( 4 4 171) 493-0334, fax: (44 171) 493-1747. not be converted to any other kind of visa.
The Directorate General of Tourism in Jakarta A visa is required in advance for all other na-
has brochures and maps on all Indonesian tionals or arrivals at minor ports.
provinces: Jl. Kramat Raya 8 1 , PO Box 409, Upon arrival you will be given a white em-
Jakarta 10450. a- (021) 310-3117/9, fax: barkation/disembarkation card to fill out. Keep
(021) 310-1146. this card with your passport as you must pre-
Local government tourism offices, Dinas Pari- sent it when leaving the country.
wisata, are generally only good for basic infor-
mation. More useful assistance is often avail- Other Visas
able from privately run (but government ap-
The 2-month, non-extendable tourist pass is the
proved) Tourist Information Services. Be aware
only entry permit that comes without a great deal
that many offices calling themselves "Tourist In-
of paperwork.
formation" are simply travel agents.
A social visa, usually valid for 4-5 weeks, can
The major offices in West Papua are:
be extended for up to 3 months, but is difficult
Department of Tourism, Post and Telecom-
to get. You must have a good reason for spend-
muication. Jl. Raya Abepura 8, Entrop, Jayapura
ing time in Indonesia (relatives, language study),
99224, «• (0967) 32216, 34843, 34447, fax:
and you must have a sponsor who will assume
(0967) 31519. financial responsibility for you. The process can
Dinas Pariwisata, Propinsi Dati I West Papua, take days or even weeks, and extensions are
Jl. Soa Siu II, Jayapura 99115, « 35923, 33381 at the discretion of the immigration office where
ext. 2441-3437. you apply.
A business visa requires a letter from a com-
VVISAS
MM pany stating that you are performing a needed
service for a company in Indonesia. It is valid
Nationals of the following 47 countries do not for up to one year, but you must leave the coun-
need visas, and are granted visa-free entry for try every 4 months. This is not intended as an
60 days upon arrival. employment visa, but is for investors, consul-
TRAVEL ADVISORY 169
tants, or other business purposes. You are not suna Said, Kav. 1 0 , s 525-1990.
to earn money in Indonesia on a business visa. Pakistan Jl.Teuku Umar No. 5 0 , TP 314-4009.
Two other types of visas are available: the tem- Papua New Guinea Pan in Bank Centre 6th Floor,
porary residence card (KITAS) for research, for- Jl. Jend. Sudirman No. 1 , s 725-1218.
mal study or employment, and t h e permanent Philippines Jl. Imam Bonjol No. 6-8, ^ 314-9329.
residence card (KITAP). Both are difficult to get. Singapore Jl. H.R. Rasuna Said, Block X Kav. 2,
When dealing with t h e authorities, be on No. 4, ^ 5 2 0 - 1 4 8 9 .
your b e s t behavior and dress appropriately. South Korea Jl. Gatot Subroto, Kav. 5 7 - 5 8 ,
The Immigration Office in Jayapura is at Jl. -a 5201915.
Percetakan # 1 5 ( « ( 0 9 6 7 ) 3 3 6 4 7 ) . Hours: Spain Jl. Agus Salim No. 6 1 , -sr 331-414.
9 a m - 3 p m Mon-Thurs, til 2 : 3 0 p m on Fri. Sweden Bina Mulia Bldg. I, Jl. H.R. Rasuna Said,
Kav. 10, s 520-1551.
Customs Switzerland Jl. H.R.Rasuna Said B-l, Kav. 1 0 / 3 2 ,
•Z? 5 1 6 - 0 6 1 .
Narcotics, firearms and ammunition are strictly
Thailand Jl. Imam Bonjol No.74, ^ 3 9 0 - 4 0 5 5 .
prohibited. The standard duty-free allowance
is: 2 liters of alcoholic beverages, 2 0 0 cigarettes, United Kingdom Jl. M.H. Thamrin No.75, -a 330904.
5 0 cigars or 1 0 0 grams of tobacco. United States of America Jl. Medan Merdeka Se-
There is no restriction on import and export latan No. 5, s 360-360.
of foreign currencies in cash or travelers' checks, Vietnam Jl. Teuku Umar No. 2 5 , ^ 310-0357.
but there is an export limit of 5 0 , 0 0 0 Indone-
sian rupiah. Passport Loss
All narcotics are illegal in Indonesia. The If you lose your passport, it will be difficult to
use, sale or purchase of narcotics results in long get new documents to leave the country unless
prison t e r m s , huge fines and d e a t h , in some
you have the proper official f o r m s from the po-
cases. Once caught, you are immediately placed
lice. Always keep a photocopy of your passport,
in detention until trial, and the sentences are
visa and driver's license separate from the orig-
stiff, as demonstrated by Westerners currently
inals. You can then prove your identity in case
serving sentences as long as 3 0 years for pos-
of theft or loss.
session of marijuana.
When theft occurs, report to your consulate.
Verification of your identity and citizenship takes
two or three weeks and involves going to the im-
migration office in Jayapura.
All foriegn embassies are in Jakarta:
Australia Jl. H.R. Rasuna Said, Kav. C/15-16,
*r 5 2 2 - 7 1 1 1 .
Austria Jl. P. Diponegoro No. 4 4 , s 338-090.
When packing, keep in mind t h a t you will be in
Belgium J l . J e n d . S u d i r m a n , Kav. 2 2 - 2 3 ,
the tropics, but t h a t it can get cold in the moun-
*? 5 7 1 2 1 8 0 .
tains. Bring wash-and-wear, light cotton clothes
Brunei Darussalam Jl. Jend. Sudirman, Kav. 22-23,
t h a t absorb perpiration. (Synthetic fabrics are
s 571-2180.
really uncomfortable in the tropics.) A medium-
Canada Wisma Metropolitan 1,15th Floor, Jl. Jend.
Sudirman, Kav. 29, s- 525-0709. weight sweater or wind breaker is also a must,
China Jl. Jend. Sudirman, Kav. 6 9 , s 714-596. as is a light rain j a c k e t with a hood. For cold
Denmark Bina Mulia Bldg., 4th Floor, Jl. H.R. Ra- nights in the highlands, you may even want to
suna Said, Kav. 10, -BP 520-4350. bring long underwear. Suits and ties are al-
Finland Bina Mulia Bldg., 10th Floor, Jl. H.R. Ra- m o s t never w o r n . Tennis s h o e s are fine for
suna Said, Kav. 10, -zr 516-980. basic footwear, but for hiking you will need
France Jl. M.H. Thamrin No. 2 0 , -a 314-2807. sturdy shoes or boots (depending on the diffi-
Germany Jl. Raden Saleh 54-56, 's 384-9547. culty of the trek). Bring a pair that is already bro-
Greece Jl. Kebon Sirih No. 16, ^ 360-623. ken in. Also, bring a cap to keep the sun off dur-
India Jl. H.R. Rasuna Said No. S - l , s 520-4150. ing long boat rides or w a l k s . If you plan on
Italy Jl. Diponegoro 4 5 , •BP 337-445. trekking, bring a sleeping bag and leather gloves.
Japan Jl. M.H. Thamrin No. 24, -ST 324-308 Don't bring too much, as you will be t e m p t e d
Malaysia Jl. H.R. Rasuna Said Kav. X / 6 / 1 - 3 , by the great variety of inexpensive clothes avail-
s 522-4947. able here. If you visit a government office, men
Myanmar Jl. H. Agus Salim No. 109, S- 314-0440. should wear long trousers, shoes and a shirt with
Mexico Wisma Nusantara, 4th Floor, Jl. M.H. collar. Women should wear a neat dress, cov-
Thamrin No. 59, -E? 337-479. ering knees and shoulders, and s h o e s .
Netherlands Jl. H.R. Rasuna Said, Kav. S-3, For those wanting to travel light, a sarong pur-
-a 5 1 1 5 1 5 . chased upon arrival in Indonesia ( $ 5 - 1 0 ) is
New Zealand Jl. Diponegoro No. 4 1 , s 330-680. one of t h e most versatile items you could hope
Norway Bina Mulia Bldg. I, 4th Floor, Jl. H.R. Ra- for. It serves as a wrap to get to the bath, a beach
170 PRACTICALITIES
towel, pajamas, bed sheet, fast drying towel, etc. mates on the coasts and pleasant days and cool
Indonesians are renowned for their ability to (even cold) nights in the highlands. Variations
sleep anytime, anywhere; so they are not likely from this are more a matter of luck than care-
to understand your desire for peace and quiet ful planning, especially on the north coast,
at night. Sponge rubber earplugs are available which is rainy, but has no real season.
from pharmacies in the West or from the in-flight The seas are more predictable. July and Au-
airline toiletry kit. Many consider them the most gust are the best times to navigate off the
important 4 grams they carry. north coast. January to March and June to Oc-
Tiny padlocks for use on luggage zippers tober are the dangerous months for sailing off
are a handy deterrent to pilfering hands. Some the south coast.
come with combination locks. Flashlights may Tides in Indonesia average between one and
come in handy, although these can be easily pur- three meters. The only place in the country with
chased locally. really big tidal fluctuations is the south coast
Bring along some pre-packaged alcohol tow- of West Papua, where the shallow Arafura Sea
elettes (swabs). These are handy for disin- rises and falls 5 meters or more.
fecting your hands before eating, or after a trip
to the kamar kecil (lavatory). ! WHEN TO TRAVEL
West Papua has no Western-style depart-
ment stores, so for things like contact lens so- The best time to visit West Papua is during the
lutions, dental floss, tampons, sunscreen, and dry season, April to September. Humidity is
insect repellent, if you think you might need down and nights can be cool. Parts of the
them, pack them. province are inaccessible during the rainy sea-
Passport photos may come in handy for ap- son and flights are even more unreliable.
plications/permits (for parks) or even as gifts.
On your travels you will meet people who are
kind and helpful, yet you may feel too embar- PLANNING A TRIP TO WEST PAPUA
rassed to give money. In this kind of situation
The good old days of encountering spears and
a small gift is appropriate. Chocolates, cookies,
deadly diseases as you hack your way through
pens, stationery from your hotel, even your T-
the New Guinea jungle are over. You will not see
shirtwith foreign designs are appreciated.
any cannibal feasts. There are still a few small
groups of people living in the Mamberamo basin
| CLIMATE and between the highlands and the south coast
swamps that have not been contacted by out-
In general, Indonesia experiences two yearly sea- siders, but it is unlikely you will meet them.
sons of monsoon winds: the southeast monsoon, None of this, however, means West Papua
bringing dry weather (musim panas—dry sea- is now Bali. It is a huge, beautiful, out-of-the way
son), and the northwest monsoon, bringing rain place like no other in the world. One-fifth of the
{musim hujan—rainy season). Often the chang- world's languages are spoken here. The cultural
ing seasons can bring the time of high waves differences between, say, the Dani in the high-
{musim ombak). lands and the Asmat of the south coast are vast.
The rainy season is normally November to The island's wildlife is among the most inter-
April, with a peak around January/February, esting on the planet and, perhaps, the least well-
when it rains for several hours each day. The described.
rain is predictable, however, and always stops Much of West Papua still remains impassable.
for a time, when the sun may come out. Before The government's road-building program is am-
it rains, the air gets very sticky; afterwards it is bitious, but so far the whole province—half of
refreshingly cool. the second-largest island in the world—has
The dry season, May to October, is a better about as many miles of road as a medium-
time to come, and especially June to August. sized Los Angeles sub-division. Travel here
This is the time to climb mountains or visit na- means flying in on relatively small airplanes
ture reserves; when wild bulls go in search of and walking from there.
water and sea turtles lay eggs more often. Some of the regions are inaccessible to trav-
Due to West Papua's mountainous body, the elers for political reasons and a lack of tourist
climate is tropical, but is subject to a great deal infrastructure: the area around the Paniai Lakes
of variation. Basically, however, temperatures and Enarotali, for example, or parts of the Bird's
drop one degree centigrade with every 100 Head peninsula. This book concentrates on the
meter rise in elevation. In general, lowland tem- most interesting and most accessible places.
peratures fluctuate around a mean of 27°C, with It is impossible to describe in detail (within a
an annual range seldom exceeding 8°C. In the budget a publisher would accept) an area as large
mountains it can go as low as 5°C. Humidity varies as West Papua.
but is always high, between 60% and 100%. Planning a trip to West Papua requires time,
As a general rule, expect hot and muggy cli- patience and a healthy respect for Murphy's Law
TRAVEL ADVISORY 171
(which should be renamed Merpati's Law here). 500,100, and 50 rupiah. Unfortunately, some
That is, if anything can go wrong, it will. Do not of the coins are very similar in size, so look care-
try and see the province in 5 days. All trips to fully. In stores small change is often replaced
West Papua start and end with an obligatory by candies.
overnight in either Biak or Jayapura, and flights
are often delayed for several days. Or, it can be Banking
2 weeks between boats if there's a cancellation.
So be prepared and don't plan a tight schedule. It is best to carry travelers' checks of two lead-
Everyone traveling to West Papua should fly ing companies as sometimes, for mysterious rea-
to Wamena and spend at least a few days in the sons, a bank won't cash the checks of a com-
Baliem Valley. The temperate climate, the stun- pany as well-known as, say, American Express.
ning scenery, and the hospitality of the Dani are U.S. dollars—checks and cash—are accepted
not to be missed. Right in Wamena, the ad- in all banks which deal in foreign exchange, as
ministrative center of the valley, there are more are Australian dollars and (usually) Japanese yen,
traditional (non-Christian) villages than in the fur- Deutsche marks, and French and Swiss francs.
ther outlying parts of the valley. Carrying cash is not a good idea. Aside from the
A more adventurous trip would be to visit the possible loss, banks won't take the bills unless
Asmat and Kamoro lands of the south coast, they are in perfect condition. Rates in Jayapura
although transportation is unreliable, and it is are about 5-7% better than in Wamena.
nowhere nearly as inviting a place as the Baliem Moneychangers and banks accepting foreign
Valley. If you think mud, salt, humidity, and the currency are found in most tourist areas. Banks
lack of anything except basic services will are open from 8am-3pm, Monday to Friday. The
dampen your enthusiasm, then they probably will. bank counters at major airports offer competi-
On the other hand, this may just whet your ap- tive rates. Bank lines in town can be long and
petite to be one of the mere handful of people slow; the best way around it is to arrive promptly
who visit these fascinating places each year. at opening time.
If you are traveling independently, plan on a Get a supply of Rpl,000 and Rp500 notes
week to 10 days to see the Jayapura area and when you change money, as taxi drivers and
Wamena, a minimum of 2 weeks to add on a vendors often have—or claim to have— no
side-trip (Manokwari, Merauke, Biak) and 3 or change for big bills. When traveling in the coun-
more weeks to explore remote areas (Asmat tryside, RplOO notes are also useful.
area, offshore islands, conservation areas). It Carrying cash (US$) can be a handy safety
is not unusual for visitors to spend 4-6 weeks precaution as it is still exchangeable should you
in West Papua and still see only a very small lose your passport, but Indonesian banks only
part. Tour agencies move at a quicker pace. If accept foreign currency that is crisp and clean.
you are pressed for time, you may do better to Major credit cards may be accepted in some
sign on with one and let someone else take care shops and hotels, but they often add a 3% sur-
of all the arrangements. charge. Most cities have at least one bank at
Please arrive with the mindset that roads will which cash advances can be made—look for
be rough, accommodations will be rustic and Bank Duta, BCA and Danamon. Visa and Mas-
everything will take twice as long as you expect. terCard are the most frequently accepted.
Let your mind be free to take in the wonders of There are no exchange controls and excess
West Papua. rupiah (bills only) can be freely reconverted at
the airport.
Telephone Codes
you want to get anything done, be there by
11am. In large cities most private businesses
are open 9 am to 5 pm. Shops from 9 am to 9 pm.
In smaller towns shops close for a siesta at 1 pm From outside Indonesia, the following cities may
and reopen at 6 pm. be reached by dialing 62 (the country code for
Indonesia) then the city code, then the number.
COMMUNICATIONS Within Indonesia, the city code must be preceded
by a 0 (zero).
Ambon 911 Mataram 364
Mail Balikpapan 542 Medan 61
Banda Aceh 651 Merauke 971
Indonesia's postal service is reliable, if not ter-
Bandar Metro 725
ribly fast. K/'/at express service is only slightly
Lampung 721 Mojokerto 321
more expensive and much faster. Kilat khusus
Bandung 22 Nusa Dua 361
(domestic special delivery) will get there
Banjarmasin 511 Padang 751
overnight. International express mail gets post-
Banyuwangi 333 Palangkaraya 514
cards and letters to North America or Europe in
about 7 days from most cities. Batam 778 Palembang 711
Belawan 619 Palu 451
Kantorpos (post offices) are in every little vil-
Bengkulu 736 Pare-Pare 421
lage, open 8am-8pm daily except Sunday.
Biak 961 Pasuruan 343
Hotels will normally sell stamps and post let-
ters for you, or you can use private postal Binjai 619 Pati 295
agents to avoid hassles. Look for the orange Blitar 342 Pekalongan 285
Agen Kantor Pos (postal agency) signs. Bogor 251 Pekanbaru 761
Bojonegoro 353 Pematang-
Bondowoso 332 siantar 622
Telephone and Fax
Bukittinggi 752 Ponorogo 352
Long distance phone calls, both within Indone- Cianjur 263 Pontianak 561
sia and international, are handled by satellite. Cilacap 282 Parapat 625
Domestic long distance calls can be dialed from Cipanas 255 Probolinggo 335
most phones. To dial your own international calls, Cirebon 231 Purwakarta 264
find an IDD (International Direct Dial) phone and Cisarua 251 Purwokerto 281
dial " 0 0 1 " or "008," otherwise you must go via Denpasar 361 Sabang 652
the operator, which is far more expensive. Gadog 251 Salatiga 298
A magnetic debit (kartu telpon) phone card can Garut 262 Samarinda 541
be purchased at hotels, post offices and many Gresik 3 1 Sekupang 778
other outlets. This is used on card phones which Jakarta 21 Semarang 24
are increasing in popularity, eliminating the need Jambi 741 Serang 254
for small change. Jember 331 Sibolga 731
If your hotel has no IDD link you have to go to Jombang 321 Sidoarjo 319
the main telephone office (kantor telepon), use Kabanjahe 628 Sigli 653
a silver card phone (kartu telpon) and pay an un- Karawang 267 Situbondo 338
inflated rate or use a private postal and telephone Kebumen 287 Solo 271
service: Wartel (warung telekommunikasi)/war- Kediri 354 Sorong 951
postel/warparpostel. These small "telecom Kendal 294 Sukabumi 266
shops" are all over Indonesia and fast becom- Kendari 401 Sumbawa
ing the most convenient way to call interna- Klaten 272 Besar 371
tional (you avoid hotel price hikes). They are often Kota Pinang 624 Sumedang 261
run by well-trained, efficient staff and offer fast Kotabaru 518 Surabaya 31
IDD services at near standard rates. Open daily Kutacane 629 Tangerang 21
from 8am to 10pm or 11pm. Prices per minute Kuala Simpang 641 Tapak Tuan 656
are about $2.30 to the Americas and $3.10 to Kudus 291 Tarakan 551
most European countries. Night rates are lower. Kupang 391 Tasikmalaya 265
International calls via MCI, Sprint, ATT, and the Lahat 731 Tebing Tinggi
like can be made from IDD phones using the ac- LhokSeumawe 645 Deli 621
cess code for your calling card company. Recently, Lumajang 334 Ternate 921
special telephones have been installed in In- Madiun 351 TulungAgung 355
donesia's airports with pre-programmed but- Magelang 293 Ujung Pandang 411
tons to connect you via these companies to var- Malang 341 Wates 274
ious countries. Manado 431 Wonosobo 286
Faxes and can be sent and received at wartel Manokwari 962 Yogyakarta 274
offices and most main post offices.
TRAVEL ADVISORY 173
Drink plenty of fluids and take salt. tery. If you feel no relief in a day or two, you have
the more serious amoebic dysentery which re-
Cuts and Scrapes quires additional medication.
To prevent stomach problems, try to eat only
Your skin will come into contact with more dirt thoroughly cooked foods, don't buy already
and bacteria than it did back home, so wash your peeled fruit, and stay away from unpasteurized
face and hands more often. Cuts should be taken dairy products. For constipation, eat a lot of fruit.
seriously and cleaned with an antiseptic like Be-
tadine or Dettol, available from any pharmacy
Intestinal Parasites
(apotik). Once clean, antibiotic powder (Sul-
fanilamide) or ointment, both available locally, It is estimated that 80 to 90 percent of all peo-
should be applied. Cover the cut during the day ple in Indonesia have intestinal parasites and
to keep it clean, but leave it uncovered at night these are easily passed on by food handlers. Pre-
and whenever you are resting so that it can dry. vention is difficult, short of fasting when away from
Constant covering will retain moisture in the luxury hotel restaurants, and even this is no
wound and only encourage an infection. Re- guarantee. It's best to take care of parasites
peat this ritual after every bath. Areas of red- sooner rather than later, by routinely taking a dose
ness around the cut indicate infection and a doc- of anti-parasite medicine such as Kombatrin
tor should be consulted. At the first sign of (available at all apotik) once a month during your
swelling it is advisable to take broad spectrum stay and again when you get on the plane home.
antibiotics to prevent a really nasty infection. If you still have problems when you get back,
Not every mosquito bite leads to malaria, but even if only sporadically, have stool and blood
in the tropics a scratched bite or small abrasion tests. Left untreated, parasites can cause se-
can quickly turn into a festering ulcer. You must rious damage.
pay special attention to these things. Apply
calamine solution or Tiger Balm—a widely avail- Mosquito-borne Diseases
able camphorated salve—or some imitation
thereof to relieve the itching. For light burns, use Malaria is a problem in most parts of West
Aristamide or Bioplacenteron. Papua. It is worse along the coasts, particularly
where it is swampy. It is much less of a prob-
Diarrhea lem in the highlands (although, the oft-heard rule
of thumb that malarial mosquitos do not live at
A likely traveling companion. In addition to the altitudes higher than 500 meters is simply not
strange fnrw
food and unfamiliar micro-fauna, diar- correct. People have gotten malaria in Wamena,
rhea is often the result of attempting to ac- at 1,500 meters). The disease accounts for
complish too much in one day. Taking it easy some 18 percent of the province's total mortality,
can be an effective prevention. Ask before leav- and is nothing to be irresponsible about.
ing home what the latest and greatest of the Malaria is caused by a protozoan, Plasmod-
many remedies are and bring some along. Imod- ium, which affects the blood and liver. The vec-
ium is locally available as are activated carbon tor for this parasite is the Anopheles mosquito.
tablets (Norit) that will absorb the toxins giving After contracting malaria, it takes a minimum
you grief. of six days—or up to several years—before
When it hits, it is usually self-limiting to two symptoms appear.
or three days. Relax, take it easy and drink lots If you are visiting West Papua, you mast take
of fluids, perhaps accompanied by rehydration malaria pills. Do not think that pills offer com-
salts such as Servidrat (local brands are Oralit plete protection, however, as they don't. If you
and Pharolit). Especially helpful is water from are pregnant, have had a splenectomy or have
the young coconut {air kelapa muda) or strong, a weak immune system, or suffer from chronic
unsweetened tea. The former is an especially disease, you should weigh carefully whether
pure anti-toxin. Get it straight from the coconut the trip is worth the risk.
without sugar, ice or food color added. When you Chloroquine phosphate is the traditional
are ready, bananas, papayas, plain rice, crack- malaria prophylactic, but in the past 10-15
ers or dry biscuits, and bubur(nce porridge) are years, the effectiveness of the drug has dete-
a good way to start. Avoid fried, spicy or heavy riorated. Deciding on an appropriate anti-malar-
foods and dairy products for a while. After three ial is now more complicated. There are actually
days without relief, see a doctor. four forms of malaria: Plasmodium vivax, which
Not all bouts of diarrhea mean dysentery. If is unpleasant and can lie dormant for 50 years
you contract the latter, which is much more se- or more, but is rarely fatal to healthy adults; P.
rious, you must seek medical help. Do this if your melariae, which is the least serious variant; P.
stools are mixed with blood and pus, are black, ovale, which is rare in Indonesia; and P. falci-
or you are experiencing severe stomach cramps parum, which can be quickly fatal. P. falciparum
and fever. If no medical help is available, try tetra- is dominant in parts of Indonesia, including
cycline and Diatab, effective for bacillary dysen- West Papua.
TRAVEL ADVISORY 175
Malaria pills. As a prophylactic for travel, take phylaxis. Those on a prophylaxis will have
two tablets of Chloroquine (both on the same stronger "flu" symptoms (aches, nausea,
day) once a week, and one tablet of Maloprim headache).
(pyrimethamine) once a week. Maloprim is a If you think you have malaria, you should call
strong drug, and not everybody can tolerate it. on professional medical help immediately. A good
If you are planning on taking Maloprim for more medical professional is your best first aid. Only
than two months, it is recommended that you if you cannot get help, initiate the following
take a folic acid supplement, 6 mg a day, to treatment:
guard against anemia. [Note: The anti-malarial 1) Take 4 Chloroquine tablets immediately.
drugs only work once the protozoan has emerged 2) 6 hours later, take 2 more Chloroquine
from the liver, which can be weeks after your re- tablets.
turn. You should continue on the above regimen 3) The next day, take 2 more.
for one month after returning.] 4) The following day, take 2 more.
There is now widespread resistance to Chloro- Note: If the Chloroquine treatment does not
quine in West Papua. Mefloquin (such as Lar- cause the fever to break within 24 hours, as-
ium) seems to be the most commonly used pro- sume the infection is the very dangerous P. fal-
phylaxis now. It has been shown effective, al- ciparum and begin the following treatment im-
though unpleasant side effects have been mediately:
demonstrated for it as well. Mefloquine is also 1) Take 3 tablets (750 mg) of Mefloquine
very expensive, about $3 a tablet. However, it (Larium)
can be a lifesaver in cases of resistant falciparum 2) Six hours later, take 2 more tablets
infection. (500 mg) of Mefloquine.
These drugs are not available over-the-counter 3) After 12 hours—and only if you weigh 60
in most western countries (or, indeed, even kg (130 lbs) or more—take one more tablet
behind the counter at most pharmacies), and (250 mg) of Mefloquine.
if you visit a doctor, you may have trouble con- The other mosquito concern is dengue fever,
vincing him of what you need. Doctors in the tem- spread by the morning-biting Aedes aegypti, es-
perate zones are not usually familiar with trop- pecially during the rainy season. The most ef-
ical diseases, and may even downplay the need fective prevention is not getting bitten (there is
to guard against them. Do not be persuaded. no prophylaxis for dengue). Dengue fever symp-
Try to find a doctor who has had experience in toms are headache, pain behind the eyes, high
these matters. fever, muscle and joint pains and rash ap-
You can also buy Chloroquine and Maloprim pearing between the third and fifth days of ill-
over-the-counter in Indonesia, for very little (a ness. Within days, the fever subsides and re-
few dollars for a month's supply). Maloprim, how- covery is seldom hampered with complications.
ever, may still be difficult to find. [Note: there The more serious variant, dengue haemorrhagic
is a non-chloroquine-based drug sold in In- fever (DHF), which can be fatal, may be the re-
donesia called Fansidar. This drug is not effective action of a secondary infection with remaining
against the resistant strains of P. falciparum and immunities following a primary attack.
not for use as a prophylaxis.] Cases of Japanese encephalitis, a viral in-
The antibiotic Doxycycline can also be used fection affecting the brain, have occured re-
as a prophylaxis for short-term stays (2-6 cently and are added cause to take protective
weeks): 100 mg. once a day with food, starting measures against mosquito bites.
2 days before arrival and continued through 4 Prevention. Malaria, dengue fever, and Japan-
days after departure of the malarious area. ese encephalitis are carried by mosquitos. If you
Treatment. Malaria in the early stages is very don't get bit, you don't get the diseases.
hard to distinguish from a common cold or flu. 1) While walking around, use a good quality
A person infected may just suffer from headache mosquito repellent, and be very generous with
and nausea, perhaps accompanied by a slight it, particularly around your ankles. Wear light-
fever and achiness, for as long as a week until colored, long-sleeved shirts or blouses and long
the disease takes hold. When it does, the clas- pants. (Effective insect repellent is very hard to
sic symptoms begin: find in West Papua, so bring some from home.)
1) Feeling of intense cold, sometimes ac- Any chemical repellent containing deet (diethyl
companied by shaking. This stage lasts from 30 toluamide) should be applied with caution and
minutes to two hours. never to the face. Application to clothing can be
2) High fever begins, and victim feels hot and more effective. A local non-chemical solution is
dry, and may vomit or even become delirious. citronella mixed with eucalyptus oil {minyak
This lasts 4-5 hours. gosok, cap tawon).
3) Sweating stage begins, during which the 2) While eating or relaxing in one spot, burn
victim perspires very heavily, and his body tem- mosquito coils. These are those green, slightly
perature begins to drop. brittle coils of incense doped with pyrethrin
The classic fever/chill pattern is more likely that were banned in the United States some
to occur with people who are not taking pro- years ago. They last 6-8 hours and are quite ef-
176 PRACTICALITIES
fective. You will get used to the smell. (If you the symptoms and treatment of tropical dis-
are worried about inhaling some of the poison eases, however, which is something your fam-
they contain, re-read the classic symptoms of ily doctor might have a real tough time recog-
malaria above.) In Indonesia, the ubiquitous coils nizing back home.)
are called obat nyamuk bakar. Double Rabbit is Consultations with doctors are very cheap in
one of the more reliable brands. (There are Indonesia, usually about $5-$8 for general
brands which do not contain pyrethum, so are practitioners, $8-$15 for specialists. If you
ineffective.) In some places where there is elec- check into a hospital in Jayapura, get a VIP room
tricity, there is a smokeless repellent with a sim- ($20-$30 for everything—including doctors'
ilar ingredient that is inserted into a unit plugged fees—but not medicines) or a somewhat cheaper
into the wall. "Klas I" room. If you stay in a cheaper hospital
3) While sleeping, burn obat nyamuk and room of a ward, your doctor will be some young,
use a mosquito net. Some hotels have nets, but inexperienced kid, fresh out of medical school.
not many, and you should bring your own. If you Government hospitals, at provincial capital and
set a couple of obat nyamuk coils going in district level, have improved considerably since
strategic places when you go to sleep you will the late 1980s.
be protected. Remember that mosquitos like Misuse of antibiotics is still a concern in In-
damp bathrooms—where few people bother to donesia. They should only be used for bacter-
light a mosquito coil. ial diseases and then for at least 10 to 14 days
to prevent developing antibiotic resistant strains
AIDS & Hepatitis B of your affliction. If an injection or antibiotics are
prescribed, be sure it's necessary. Ensure sy-
Surprise! Safe sex is a good idea. West Papua ringes have never been used before or better
has the second highest rate of AIDS/HIV infection yet, buy your own disposable from an apotik
in Indonesia. Documentation, awareness and (pharmacy) and take it to the clinic.
education are just beginning. Another area of con-
cern is the Hepatitis B virus which affects liver Emergency Medical Assistance
function and is only sometimes curable and can
be fatal. The prevalence of Hepatitis B in In- Even in the big cities outside of Jakarta, emer-
donesia is the basis for international concern over gency care leaves much to be desired. Your best
the ominous possibilities for the spread of the bet in the event of a life-threatening emergency
HIV virus, which is passed on in the same ways. or accident is to get on the first plane to Jakarta
or Singapore. Contact your embassy or con-
Medical Treatment sulate by phone for assistance (see below).
Medevac airlifts are very expensive ($26,000)
Pharmacies—apotik—in Jayapura carry just and most embassies will recommend that you
about everything you might need. You can read- buy insurance to cover the cost of this when trav-
ily get malaria pills here, and an excellent anti- eling extensively in Indonesia.
bacterial ointment called Bacitran. Tiger Balm
is available everywhere in Asia, and it is excel- Insurance
lent for itching bites and muscles pains from hik-
ing or carrying a back pack. Mycolog is a brand Check your health insurance before coming to
of fungicide sold in Indonesia. Oral rehydration make sure you are covered. Travel insurance
salts are usually sold in packets to be mixed with should include coverage of a medical evacua-
200 ml of (clean) water. Outside Jayapura and tion to Singapore and a 24-hour worldwide
the other larger cities, it's nearly impossible to phone number as well as some extras like lug-
purchase medicines or first aid supplies. gage loss and trip cancellation.
In the larger towns, especially Jayapura, there AEA International Asia Emergency Assistance
are decent government hospitals {rumah sakit) offers insurance packages for travelers and ex-
and medicines are widely available. Smaller vil- patriates living in Asia. This well-respected out-
lages only have government clinics {puskesmas), fit is considered to have the best response time
which are not equipped to deal with anything se- and operation in Indonesia, AEA maintains 24-hour
rious. Your hotel or losmen will probably be alarm centers in Jakarta, Bali, Singapore, Sydney,
able to find you a doctor who speaks English. Bangkok, Hong Kong, Seoul, Beijing, and Ho Chi
The highlands aren't this developed. Like any- Minh City. Premium for one-year (approx. $125)
where in the world, medical facilities decline in is available for travelers and covers the cost of
direct proportion to the distance from urban cen- medical evacuation to Singapore and repatriation
ters. Missionaries are usually equipped for if recommended by the AEA doctor. Contact: AEA
medical emergencies—but at least pay for what- International Pte. Ltd.,331 North Bridge Road,
ever medication/help you receive from them. 17th Floor, Odeon Towers, Singapore 0718.
Doctors and health care are quite inexpen- « (65) 338 2311, fax: (65) 338 7611.
sive by western standards, but the quality leaves International SOS Assistance Asia Pacific Re-
much to be desired. (At least they're familiar with gional Head Office: 10 Anson Road, #21-08/A
TRAVEL ADVISORY 177
International Plaza, Singapore 0207. c (65) 221 cial " (istimewa) comes with an egg on top and
3981, fax: (65) 226 3937, telex: 24422 SOSAFE. is often served for breakfast.
Offers a range of emergency services worldwide. There are restaurants everywhere in Indonesia
Numerous large corporate clients. Contact them that specialize in food from Padang. West Suma-
for rates and types of coverage. tra. This spicy, and very tasty cuisine has a dis-
tinctive way of being served. As many as 15-20
different dishes are displayed in the glass case
1 FOOD AND DRINK in front of the restaurant. You tell the waiter what
Drink lots of fluids. The equatorial sun takes out you want and he sets a whole stack of the lit-
a lot from you and dehydration can be a seri- tle dishes in front of you. At the end of the meal,
ous problem. Symptoms are infrequent urina- you are charged for what you have eaten and
tion, deep yellow/orange urine, and headaches. any untouched plates are put back in the case.
Tap water in Indonesia is not potable and it As tempting as fresh vegetables may be,
should be brought to a full boil for ten minutes avoid eating garnishes or raw salads unless the
before being considered safe. Indonesians are vegetables are air-flown/imported.
themselves fussy about drinking water, so if you're The beers available in Indonesia are Bintang
offered a drink it is almost certainly safe. and Anker, both brewed under Dutch supervision
Most Indonesians do not feel they have eaten and rather light (perhaps appropriately for the
until they have eaten rice. This is accompa- tropics). With electricity such a precious com-
nied by side dishes, often just a little piece of modity, however, in out-of-the-way places the only
meat and some vegetables with a spicy sauce. way to quaff it cold is to pour it over ice.
Other common items include tahu (tofu), tempe
(soybean cake) and salted fish. Crispy fried Eating in West Papua
tapioca crackers flavored with prawns and spices The only place in West Papua you will find west-
[krupuk) usually accompany a meal. ern-style meals is in the better hotels and up-
No meal is complete without sambal—a fiery market restaurants in the larger cities. The cost
paste of ground chili peppers with garlic, shal- is usually high, and ingredients like beef are im-
lots, sugar, and sometimes soy sauce or fish ported frozen.
paste. Fruits, especially pineapple and papaya, Since the restaurateurs and half of the popu-
provide quick relief for a chili-burned mouth. lation in West Papua are from other parts of the
Cooking styles vary greatly from one region archipelago, the island's staples—sago, sweet
to another. The Sundanese of West Java are fond potatoes, manioc—will not be found in restau-
of raw vegetables, eaten with chili and fermen- rants. Warungs are often named "Java", "Yogya"
ted prawn paste {lalab/sambal trasi). Mini- or "Manado" and feature dishes of the respec-
hasan food in North Sulawesi is very spicy, and tive region. When traveling through the interior or
includes some interesting specialties: fruit bat along the coast, try to eat at least some of the
wings in coconut milk, sambal rat, and dog. In local food, which—compared to western In-
the more isolated parts of the archipelago, the
donesian cuisines—tends to be monotonous
food can be quite plain, and frankly, quite dull.
and bland. But you may find yourself really liking
In most Indonesian restaurants there is a stan- these after weeks of rice. (For example, thin
dard menu of satay (skewered barbequed pancakes of sago spread with peanut butter and
meat)—most common are ayam (chicken) and jelly make a delicious breakfast.)
kambing (goat), gado-gado or pecel (boiled vege- Fish is the staple protein of the West Papuan
tables with spicy peanut sauce) and soto (vege- diet and you can find many delicious varieties
table soup with or without meat). Also common of tuna, snapper and even barracuda which are
are Chinese dishes like bakmiegoreng(fried noo- delicious grilled or served in sauce. If you are
dles), bakmie kuah (noodle soup) and cap cay
staying in small villages, your fish may be served
(stir-fried vegetables).
dried and salted. If you are in coastal areas, the
In most larger towns you can also find a fish will probably be either boiled or baked and
number of Chinese restaurants on the main served with sago paste. Sago paste looks and
street. Some have menus with Chinese writing, tastes like glue in the boiled form and goes by
but usually the cuisine is very much assimilated the local name of papeda. You will gain great
to local tastes. Standard dishes, in addition to respect if you can get some down. Don't chew,
the bakmie and cap cay mentioned above, are just swallow! Your hosts wil be impressed and
sweet and sour whole fish {gurame asem manis), flattered, and spend the rest of the evening talk-
beef with Chinese greens {kailan/caisim ca
ing about the foreigner who eats papeda.
sapi), and prawns sauteed in butter {udang
In the highlands, you may have to hike for days
goreng mentega).
on ubi (sweet potatoes).
Indonesian fried chicken (ayam goreng) is com-
mon and usually very tasty—although the local
Fruits & Vegetables
-grown chicken can be a bit stringy. Then there
is the ubiquitous nasi goreng (fried rice); the "spe- Jones
Some of Indonesia's tastiest fruits, such as man-
178 PRACTICALITIES
gosteens and rambutan (although there is a local ing in while you are asleep. Big hotels have safety
relative of rambutan called matoa which ap- boxes for valuables. If your hotel does not have
pears briefly around October) are missing from such a facility, it is better to carry all the docu-
West Papua. However, there are still many de- ments along with you. Make sure you have a pho-
licious fruits to feast upon: bananas, oranges, tocopy of your passport, return plane ticket and
papaya, pineapples, pomelos (jeruk Bali), star- travelers' check numbers and keep them sep-
fruit (blimbing), guava (buah biji), and watermelon. arate from the originals.
Vegetables are fresh and grown by expert gar-
deners. Along with the Indonesian vegetables
(cassava, sweet potatoes), there are many fa-
! SURATJALAN I
miliar Western vegetables cultivated, such as To travel outside of Biak, Jayapura and Sorong,
carrots, green beans, cauliflower, tomatoes, you need a document called a suratjalan (liter-
corn, and potatoes. ally "travel letter"). The more complete term is
surat keterangan jalan and is often abbreviated
Waning (Street Stalls) to SKJ (pron. "es-kah-jay"). This permit is a letter
Restaurant kitchens do not necessarily have with information like your passport number, a
healthier food preparation pasted-in photograph, and at the bottom, all the
tio procedures than
roadside warung. The important thing at a places to which your travel has been approved.
warung is to watch and judge whether or not The suratjalan is necessary, but easily obtained.
the cooks inspire confidence. Warung rarely Technically, one can get the document at the
have a supply of running water, so beware. main police office at Biak, Jayapura or Sorong.
The first portion may not fill you up, so a sec- In fact, you are best off getting it in Jaya-
ond portion can be ordered by saying "Tambah pura/Sentani. If Sorong is your point of entry to
separuh" (add half portion). But only the price West Papua, you of course need to get your doc-
is halved. The amount of food is more like ument there. If you are going directly to Jayapura
three-quarters. Finish off with a banana and from Sorong, you may as well wait.
say "Sudan" (I've had plenty, thank you). The It takes one to four passport-sized photos and
seller will total up the prices of what was served half an hour to get the suratjalan. Hand over
you and ask you how many krupuk, tempe, etc. your photographs and passport and tell them
you added; so keep track. The total will come where you want to go. Don't be conservative
to between Rp2,500 and Rp5,000 (4(H-8(H). about your travel plans. Remember, flights are
unreliable in West Papua and you may get stuck
Vegetarianism somewhere and decide to set out in another di-
rection. List as many cities as possible.
Say "saya tidak makan daging" (I don't eat Be polite and use your head. Offer a coher-
meat), "tidakpakai ayam" (without chicken) or ent itinerary and talk about the scenery and the
"tidakpakai daging" (without meat). Dietary re- wildlife and other noncontroversial aspects of
strictions are very acceptable and common due the region to which you want permission to go.
to the various religious and spiritual practices There are some areas for which you will not
involving food. However, finding food that truly be able to get permission to visit. At the time
has no animal products is a problem. Often of this writing, these were: the corridor along the
meals which appear to be made exclusively of border with Papua New Guinea, the Mamberamo
vegetables will have a chunk of beef or chicken River basin, and the Paniai Lakes and adjacent
in them to add that certain oomph. highlands, including Puncak Jaya. The reasons
for this are various, having to do with politics,
SECURITY lack of infrastructure, and—in the case of Pun-
cak Jaya—proximity to the Freeport Indonesia
Indonesia is a relatively safe place to travel and copper mine. A special permit must be secured
violent crime is almost unheard of, but petty for climbing Puncak Jaya. (See "Highlands Prac-
crime is on the upswing. Pay close attention to ticalities," page 205.)
your belongings, especially in big cities. Use a [Note: One possible way around this is to sign
small backpack or moneybelt for valuables: on with a travel agency. Some of these are
shoulderbags can be snatched. Bags have been well-connected enough to get permits for, say,
snatched by thieves on motorbikes, so be vig- Puncak Jaya or the Paniai Lakes area. Write to
ilant. Be especially wary on crowded bemos, some of the agents listed in "Highlands Practi-
buses and trains; this is where pickpockets lurk. calities," page 205, and see what they say.]
They usually work in groups and are very clever When you arrive at each stop on your trip, you
at slitting bags and extracting valuables without need to show your passport and suratjalan to
your noticing anything. officers at the local police station. In most
Be sure that the door and windows of your areas, your hotel/losmen will send someone to
hotel room are locked at night, including those take care of this chore for you. If you meet with
in the bathroom, as thieves are adept at sneak- the police in person, just tell them where you
TRAVEL ADVISORY 179
will be going and some idea of a schedule. If Thus "Bu Murni, Jetis" is a better address for
you disappear in their jurisdiction, it is their heads asking directions even though "Jalan Yos Sudarso
that are going to roll, so don't be impatient and 14" is the mailing address. Knowing the language
rude. In most cases they just want to meet you helps here but is not essential. Immediately
and practice their English. clear answers are not common and you should
Usually, the police will just check your papers be patient. You are likely to get a simple indication
and send you on your way. The Asmat area— of direction without distance, or specific in-
which we visited fairly soon after it was opened structions. The assumption is that you will be ask-
to tourists—is a different case. Here an officer ing lots of people along the way. Begin by ask-
will want to accompany you on your trip. Al- ing three people. Usually two point toward the
though it is very disappointing to have a gun-tot- same general vicinity. Proceed, then ask again.
ing policeman mediate your interaction with Maps are useful tools for you, but introduc-
everyone you meet, there seems to be no sim- ing them into discussions with Indonesians
ple way around this rule. We suggest you make may cause more confusion than clarity. More
it clear that (1) it is your trip and you are the one than likely the north arrow on the map will be
who will define the schedule; (2) this is not a turned to real north before a reading. Periplus
paid vacation for the police officer and he can Travel Maps provide detailed and accurate
share your food but you will not be paying him maps of all major tourist destinations.
any bribes disguised as a per diem fee.
CALENDAR
ADDRESSES |
The Indonesian government sets national holi-
The Indonesian spelling of geographical fea- days every year, on both fixed and moveable
tures and villages varies considerably as there dates.The fixed national holidays on the Gre-
is no form of standardization that meets with gorian calendar are the international New Year,
both popular and official approval. We have Jan. 1 ; Independence Day, Aug. 17; and Christ-
seen village names spelled three different ways, mas, Dec. 25. The Christian Good Friday, Easter
all on signboards in front of various govern- Day, and Ascension Day, the Balinese new
ment offices. In this guide, we have tried to use year, Nyepi, and the Buddhist Waisak are also
the most common spellings. legal holidays. These holy days and all the Mus-
There are three overlapping and concurrent lim holy days are based on the moon, so con-
address systems for any given location: old fusion results in attempting to extrapolate sev-
street name and number, new street name with eral years ahead.
new numbers (neither of which may be in nu- Muslim holidays in Indonesia in 2000 are:
merical order), and kampung (neighborhood) Idul Fitri January 8-9. The end of the Muslim
name with block numbers. Every town has fasting month, Ramadan, also called Lebaran.
streets named after the same national heroes, Idul Adha March 16. The day of Abraham's
so you will find General Sudirman Street in sacrifice and the day that the haji pilgrims cir-
every city throughout the archipelago. To add to cle the Kaaba in Mecca.
the confusion, the government periodically Hijryah April 6. The Islamic New Year, when
changes street names and upgrades alleyways Muhammad traveled from Mecca to Medina.
{gang) to street status with new names. In Maulud Nabi Muhammad SAW June 15. Muham-
essence, addresses are constantly in flux. mad's birthday.
The names with the new house numbers are Isra Mi'raj Nabi Muhammad SAW. October 26.
the preferred designations for postal purposes. When Muhammad ascended to heaven on his
However, when tracking down a hotel address steed, Bouraq.
you may find that the old street names, the kam- The 12 lunar months of the Muslim calendar
pung names, or local landmarks more helpful. are, in order: Muharram, Safar, Rabiul Awal, Ra-
You will also find number 38 next to number 119 biul Ahir, Jumadil Awal, Jumadil Ahir, Rajab,
and the streets referred to by different names, Sa'ban, Ramadan, Sawal, Kaidah, Zulhijja.
such as Jalan Diponegoro (an Indonesian hero), Note: The Muslim calendar begins with the
Jalan Abdi Dongo (from local history) or Gajahan Hijriah, Muhammad's flight to Median, in A.D.
Gang II (the kampung name and alley number). 622 according to the Gregorian calendar. Early
A.D. 1996 corresponds to A.H. 1416. The Mus-
Finding Your Way lim calendar is a lunar calendar (354 or 355
Westerners are used to finding things using days) and gains 10 or 1 1 days on the Gregorian
telephone directories, addresses, and maps. But calendar (365 days) each year.
in Indonesia, phone books are incomplete, ad-
dresses can be confusing and maps little un- ETIQUETTE
derstood. The way to find something is to ask.
To ask for directions, it's better to have the In the areas of Indonesia most frequented by
name of a person and the name of the kampung. Europeans, many are familiar with the strange
180 PRACTICALITIES
on camera equipment. Be particularly careful and the pearly or chambered nautilus shells,
when moving equipment from an air-conditioned black coral, and ivory from the dugong.
room to the muggy outdoors. Moisture will con-
dense on the inside and outside of the camera,
Wait until it evaporates; don't be tempted to wipe
MOUNTAIN CLIMBING
it off. Also, watch the location of your camera Access to West Papua's highest peaks around
bag and film. Temperatures in hot cars or on Puncak Jaya is through llaga in the highlands.
boats can be searing. Puncak Jaya is rated lll-IV difficulty and should
In general, stick with reliable equipment you be considered only by experienced mountaineers.
are familiar with and bring extra batteries. You will need permits from the police and mil-
itary, which are not routinely granted.
Photographic Supplies Climbing Trikora is easier. To get to the base
Some 35mm Fuji and Kodak film is widely avail- camp, figure just a day longer than the trip to
able in Indonesia, including color print film from Habbema described in this book. Operators in
ASA 100 to 400 and Ektachrome and Fujichrome Wamena run treks to Trikora, and you should
100 ASA daylight transparency film. In larger contact them if you want to climb. (See page
towns you can buy Fuji Neopan 100 ASA black- 210.)
and-white negative film and Fuji Velvia. In West Those interested in climbing in West Papua
Papua, you can only process print film; slide pro- should contact the Indonesian Mountaineering
cessing is not available anywhere in the province. Association. Rafia Bontoh will be most helpful,
as he has scads of experience with bureaucratic
1 red tape, logistics and actual climbing. His club,
PROTECTED SPECIES MAPALA, is with the University of Indonesia.
MAPALA. University of Indonesia, Jl. Pegangsaan
Indonesia is home to thousands of animal
species—more than anywhere else in the world. Timur 17 Zaal, Jakarta Pusat, Indonesia, s (21)
It also has the greatest number of endangered 333223.
species in the world. Establishing an effective Also helpful in arranging treks, everything
environmental conservation program is a for- from permits to porters, are Insatra Exclusive
midable project. The government, with the help Tours (see page 208) and Trekmate Outdoor
of private conversation agencies, such as the Adventures (page 209).
World Wildlife Fund (WWF) and the Nature
Conservancy, is working to create a viable net- SCUBA DIVING
work of national parks and nature reserves
where fragile ecosystems and threatened Although the waters around West Papua contain
species can be protected. Two of these na- some of the richest reefs in Indonesia, the only
tional parks, Ujung Kulon in West Java (home dive center in Jayapura is the Lumba-Lumba (Dol-
to the world's most endangered large mam- phin) Dive School (see "Jayapura Practicali-
mal, the Javan rhino) and Komodo in the Lesser ties," page 196). If you bring your own equip-
Sundas (home to the Komodo dragon) have ment you can snorkel in most of the coastal
been declared World Heritage Sites by the World areas, and you might even be able to scrounge
Conservation Union. up air tanks (from pearl or trepang divers) in
There are strict laws and severe penalties for Sorong.
trade in endangered species. The appendices
of the Convention on International Trade in En-
dangered Species (CITES) lists more than 200
protected species of Indonesian mammals,
There are over 50 conservation areas in the
birds, reptiles, insects, fish, and mollusks—in-
cluding orangutan, parrots, cockatoo, croco- province, but many are in remote jungle or is-
diles, tortoises and turtles, birdwing butterflies, land areas that are not easy to get to nor
and black coral. Visitors should be aware of the equipped with tourist facilities. Two of the most
fragility of Indonesia's natural environment and accessible and rewarding to visit are the
not contribute to any further degradation of it. province's two national parks, Wasur National
Park and Cenderawasih Bay Marine Park. Com-
munity-run eco-tourism is being established,
Species Unique to West Papua
and comfortable, if simple, accommodations are
It is illegal to export any products made from ma- now available.
rine turtle shells (e.g. jewelry, combs, boxes). Strictly speaking, you must have a letter of
Also protected by international convention are permission from the Provincial Department of-
the magnificent birds of paradise, cockatoos, Forestry to visit either a Strict Nature Reserve
parrots and pigeons, birdwing butterflies, cas- or a Wildlife Sanctuary. In West Papua, this
sowary birds and their eggs, cuscus and tree may be obtained by writing or visiting the KSDA
kangaroos, giant clams, Triton's trumpet shells, (Department of Forestry) office in Jayapura, Jl.
TRAVEL ADVISORY 183
Raya Abepura, Kotaraja, Jayapura, « / f a x : access will become much easier in the very near
(0967) 81596. future. Other potential sites for "soft" tourism in-
Visitors interested in information on West clude Yamurbsa-Medi Wildlife Sanctuary, one of
Papua's wildlife and culture, birding and snor- the largest leatherback turtle nesting beaches in
keling/diving, or who need resource materials the world, and Cyclops Mountains Strict Nature
such as maps, may contact or visit the World Reserve, rainforest found only 5 minutes from Sen-
Wildlife Fund (WWF) Coordination Office in Jaya- tani Airport near Jayapura.
pura, Jl. Angkasa Indah II, Angkasa, •n,/fax: See respective area practicalities sections for
(0967) 42765 or tr 42420. further information.
Wasur National Park, near Merauke, su-
ports an ecosystem similar to the Australian
bush, a remnant from when Australia and New
TOURS AND TRAVEL AGENTS J
Guinea were one large land mass. Open euca- Hiring your own vehicle for a private tour naturally
lyptus savannah and grasslands make for easy allows you much more flexibility. An AC vehicle with
viewing for animals such as wallabies, monitor a driver/guide costs $30 to $60 per day, all in-
lizards and kookaburras. Wasur offers horse clusive. The guides on both types of tours do ex-
treks, river tours and excellent birdwatching— pect tips, however be aware that they also get a
over 400 species have been recorded here. 20%-40% commission on any of your purchases
Dive or snorkeling enthusiasts will want to visit in the large souvenir shops along the way.
Cenderawasih Bay National Marine Park. Rental Travel agencies offer a variety of tours with
equipment is available and WWF staff in the knowledgeable, multilingual guides. If your time
Nabire office can arrange outings. Cenderawasih is limited, it may be best to entrust your sched-
Bay has a rich marine life, extensive coral gar- ule to an agency and let them handle all the
dens and healthy populations of animals that arrangements.
are in jeopardy elsewhere. Giant clams, for in- Refer to area practicalities for local tours.
stance, are almost extinct in the rest of In-
donesia, yet are found here in abundance, Recommended Travel Agents
reaching up to 1.5 m in length. Turtles, sharks
Best Travel Jl. Raya Sentani #84, Sentani.
and whales can be seen and, if you are very lucky,
-a (0967) 91861, fax: (0967) 91860. Branch man-
you may spot a dugong, a large but harmless
ager, Andre Liem, is very pleasant and well-or-
animal that looks like a walrus without tusks.
ganized. Province-wide trips, inlcuding Asmat re-
Keen birders may be interested in the Arfak gions and Puncak Jaya (Mt. Carstensz).
Mountains, Yapen and Biak-Supiori Strict Na- Chandra Nusantara Tours and Travel Jl. Trikora
ture Reserves. The Arfak Mountains, near 17, PO Box 225, Wamena. s (0969) 31293, fax:
Manokwari, contain birds of paradise, bowerbirds (0969) 31299. Besides their varied highlands
and even large and colorful birdwing butterfly trips, they also run a 10-14 day Asmat tour and
species that are found nowhere else on earth. a province-wide Bird Tour (19-21 days, visiting
Small Yapen Island supports no less than four Sorong, Batanta, Salawati, Wamena, Lake
species of birds of paradise, and Biak has Habbema, the Jayapura area, and Biak;
many unique species of its own. The village of $1,640/person for 5-10 people, including hotel,
Yasem on Supiori is the best base village for food, guide, porters, coastal transportation, ex-
birding on this island. Of interest are numerous cluding airfare).
parrots (such as black-capped lories) and the Dani Sangrila Tours and Travel Jl. Pembangunan
paradise kingfisher. A local guide can take you 19, Jayapura. s(0967)31060, fax: (0967) 31529.
out. Please remember to compensate him for Tour manager: Athan Ginting. Highly recommended
his time and knowledge, $5-$10 for a half to for personally tailored trips.
full day. Good snorkeling is also found close to Insatra Exclusive Tours Jl. Kemiri #1H1, P.O. Box
these areas. 211, Sentani, West Papua -a (0967) 91224,
Plans are in the works to grant Lorentz Strict fax: (0967) 91200. A reputable firm run by Rudi
Nature Reserve "National Park" standing. This Willem. Write or call for any special requests.
reserve, the largest in Indonesia, with 1.5 mil-
lion ha., represents one of the most undis- Special Interest Tours
turbed areas in the world. Protected habitats
range from the mangrove tidal flats of the south Intrepid Travel offers low prices for small groups
coast to the permanent snow caps of Puncak (max. size 12). They have a variety of tours avail-
Jaya (Mt. Carstensz). At 4,884 m, it is the high- able in length, difficulty, and activities and em-
est peak between the Himalayas and the Andes, phasize flexibility and getting off the beaten track.
and one of only three equatorial glaciers in the Contact: PO Box 2781, Fitzroy DC, Victoria 3065,
world. Trails and facilities are being developed Australia. ^ (61-3) 9416-2655, fax: (61-3) 9416-
in llaga, in the northeast corner of the reserve, 4426, e-mail: darrell@intrepidtravel.com.au.
as well as in other parts of the highlands. Roads EduVenture can provide student tour guides.
are being constructed throughout the interior and Contact: EduVenture@maf.org.
PRACTICALITIES 184
Transportation
lost or confused traveler. The weather is warm,
the pace of life relaxed, and the air is rich with
the smells of clove cigarettes, the blessed
You can fly direct to Indonesia from just about durian fruit and countless other wonders.
anywhere. Most people traveling from Europe However, the nation's transportation infra-
and the US arrive on direct flights to Jakarta, while
structure does not move with the kind of speed
those coming from Australia usually go first to
and efficiency that Western travelers expect,
Bali. The main international entry points are
which often leads to frustration. Bookings are
Soekarno-Hatta airport in Jakarta, Ngurah Rai
often difficult to make; flights and reservations
airport in Bali, and Polonia airport in Medan.
are sometimes mysteriously canceled.
There are also non-stop flights from several
Asian cities, including Singapore, Hong Kong, It is best to adjust your pace to local condi-
Taipei, Seoul, Nagoya, Fukuoka and Osaka. tions. What seems like nerve-wracking inefficiency
Jakarta's Soekarno-Hatta airport is served by is really so only if one is in a hurry. If you have
many international airlines, with over a dozen to be somewhere at a particular time, allow plenty
flights a day from Singapore alone. A cut-price of time to get there. Check and double-check
alternative from Europe or the US may be to get your bookings. Otherwise just go with the flow.
a cheap flight to Singapore and buy an onward You can't just turn off the archipelago's fa-
discount ticket to Jakarta from there: the cost mous jam karet—"rubber time"—when it's time
of these can be as low as $75 single, $150 re- to take an airplane and turn it on again when
turn. An excursion fare return ticket from Sin- you want to relax. You will get there eventually.
gapore to Bali with stops in Jakarta and Yo- Peak periods around the Christmas/New
gyakarta, good for a month, is available in Year holidays and during the June to August
Singapore for around $300. Buy through travel tourist season are the most difficult. It is im-
agents—check the classified section of the perative to book well in advance and reconfirm
Straits Times for details. [Note: you need a re- your bookings at every step along the way.
turn or onward ticket to get a visa-free entry upon Travel anywhere in Indonesia during the week
arrival in Indonesia.] prior to the Islamic Lebaran holiday is practically
Direct flights also connect Jakarta with many impossible. Find a nice spot and sit it out.
major cities in Asia and Europe. Air fares vary The golden rule is: things will sort themsel-
depending on the carrier, the season and the ves out. Eventually. Be persistent, of course, but
type of ticket purchased. A discount RT fare from relax and keep your sense of humor. Before you
the US costs from $1,000-1,200 and from Eu- explode, have a kretek cigarette, a cup of sweet
rope costs $800-1,200; about half that from coffee, or a cool glass of kelapa muda (young
Australia or East Asian capitals. coconut water). Things might look different.
Air tickets from Batam and Bintan are also
inexpensive. These Indonesian islands just off Planning an Itinerary
the coast of Singapore can be reached via short
ferry hops from Singapore's World Trade Cen- The first thing to do is to be easy on yourself
ter. Ferries to Batam cost $12 single, $17 re- and not to plan an impossibly tight schedule.
turn and to Bintan $32 single, $45 return. In- Things happen slowly here, so adjust yourself
quire at travel agents in Singapore for latest to the pace. Better to spend more time in a few
fares, then compare with direct Singapore to Bali places and see them in a leisurely way, than to
discount rates. end up hot, hassled, and hurried. You'll see more
this way, not less.
| TRAVELING IN INDONESIA Wherever you are, keep in mind that the trop-
ical heat takes its toll and you should avoid the
Having arrived in Indonesia, your choices for on- midday sun. Get an early start, before the rays
ward travel depend, as always, on time and become punishing (the tropical light is beauti-
money. In many ways, Indonesia is an easy place ful at dawn). Retreat to a cool place after lunch
to get around. Indonesians are, as a rule, hos- and go out again in the afternoon and early
pitable, good-humored, and willing to help a evening, when it's much more pleasant.
TRANSPORTATION 185
pura, via Sulawesi or Maluku, with stops in MAF. Officer: Wally Wiley, -a 91059 (Sentani, by
Sorong and Manokwari. The Rinjani and Umsini day). The Missionary Aviation Fellowship office
stop also at Nabire, while the Ciremai and Dobon- (a Protestant support airline) is next to the Sen-
solo serve Biak. The Tatamailau travels a month- tani air terminal.They do not have commercial
long voyage through West and East Nusa Teng- flights to where either Garuda or Merpati flies.
gara from Bali to the south coast of West Papua— MAF'S schedule is set according to the church's
Merauke, Timika, Kaimana, and Fakfak. requirements and they take into account the
There are four classes of cabins (the cheap- weights of passengers, including their luggage,
est is dormitory style but still clean). Some with missionaries having first priority. For a spe-
prices from Jakarta: cial chartered flight, contact them several months
Biak 1st class $156 ahead of time. Then confirm, 2 weeks prior.
dormitory $ 45 AMA. Associated Mission Aviation is the Roman
Jayapura $174/$50 Catholic equivalent of MAF. Officer: Bosco Fer-
Manokwari $145/$43 nandez, whose office is close to the Sentani air-
Sorong $137/$40 port, next to MAF, s- 91009. Planes are Cessna
Children (1-11 years old) get a 25% discount; 185s (4-5 passengers). Charters run $180/hr.
babies (to 1 year) get a 90% discount. AMA can be contacted through Airfast (a cargo
It takes a week to Jakarta. It is not a cruise outfit, but they also charter Hawker Siddeley
ship, but the food is good and it's an excellent 748's at $1,100 per hour) at telex: 76122 AIR-
alternative to flying if one has a bit of time to FAST, or Jl. Sam Ratulangi 3, P.O. Box 1234, Jaya-
spare. Book your passage as early as possible. pura, n 91114, 91115, 91085.
You may find it less of a hassle to book through
a local travel agent/tour operator. Flying in the Highlands
Pelni (P.T. Pelayaran Nasional Indonesia). Jl.
Halmahera 1 , Jayapura. -a-(0967) 533070, The fastest way to reach Wamena in the Baliem
533170, fax: 533370. Valley is to fly to Sentani (Jayapura), either get
your suratjalan there or catch a ride into Jaya-
pura to do so, overnight at one of the losmen
in Sentani, and take the next morning's flight
to Wamena.
Air Transportation Once in the highlands, you can catch a flight
to any number of small highland airstrips. At last
Merpati maintains a network of flights con- count, there were a total of 246 airstrips in West
necting Jayapura, Wamena (daily), Merauke, Papua. Merpati regularly schedules a number
Manokwari, and Nabire. Check area practicali- of flights and the Missionary Aviation Fellowship
ties for schedules. (MAF) and the Associated Mission Aviation (AMA)
188 PRACTICALITIES
have flights to the others. It is also possible— and three-quarters lanes wide; small public
and even practical, if you are in a group—to char- minivans, stopping anywhere and with no warn-
ter one of the mission planes. See "Highlands ing for passengers; the occasional private car;
Practicalities," page 205 for details. scores of motorcycles, most of them small two-
stroke affairs, usually piled with goods or, at the
Sea Transportation hands of a young hotshot, screaming along at
full throttle; horse-drawn passenger carts; be-
Yotefa shipping, a cargo outfit. Jl. Percetakan caks, bicycle rigs that carry a passenger in
90A, s 31687, telex: 76148 YAKJ. They have front; bicycles, with perhaps some children fore
200-ton coasters that take up to 75 deck pas-
and aft, and almost always piled with produce,
sengers from Jayapura to Sorong (and points be-
or perhaps two fighting cocks in their cages; and,
tween) about once a month; from Merauke to
of course, pedestrians of all ages.
Fakfak and to Am, about every six weeks. These
are "trampers." Ferries run in some areas and
small boats can be chartered to explore the Public Minivans
coastal areas. In the relatively few places in West Papua with
Route # 1 : Jayapura Sarmi Serui Biak Nabire developed road systems—major cities, some of
Manokwari Sorong Manokwari Biak Nabire Serui the smaller villages and parts of the Baliem Val-
Sarmi Jayapura on the Jayapura-based Dayala ley—the standard Indonesian form of mass
Nusantara. 14day cycle, 26 voyages a year, total transport, the "Colt" or minivan, plies the road.
distance: 1,826 nautical miles. Along the regular route, these vehicles are quite
Route #2: Jayapura Sarmi Trimurus Bagusa cheap, but since their drivers always wait for a
Kasanaweja Bagusa Trimurus Puwai Kaipuri full load before departing and often swing
Dawai Ambai Serui Waren Waipoga Napan through populated areas to round up passen-
Nabire Biak Korido Jeggerbun Ransiki Windesi gers, they are a test of one's patience.
Waior Nabire Biak Ansus Serui Dawai Waren
Serui Kaipuri Sarmi Jayapura on the Jayapura- Minivan Charters
based Nyala Perintis. 28-day cycle, 13 voyages
a year; 1,804 nautical miles. You can charter any of the public minivans that
ply the roads for the day or for one-way trips to
Land Transportation a specific location. Keep in mind that West
Papua is off the beaten path and things like auto
The average road in Indonesia is a paved, but parts and fuel are expensive.
rough and potholed thoroughfare, across which
are conducted a veritable zoo of vehicles: fully Driving On Your Own
loaded trucks, with marginal brakes and drivers
going for broke anyway; full-size buses, one Driving in Indonesia is not for the faint-hearted.
TRANSPORTATION
Vehicles and creatures of every size, shape ternative if you can fill up a van. A van can take up
and description charge onto the road out of to 7, but you need extra space if you are to be in
nowhere. The traffic is horrendous on the main it for a few days, so 5 passengers is maximum.
highways. Drive slowly and carefully. Road con- Some asking around will quickly give you an
struction sites are not marked and few cyclists idea of where to hire a driver and what the local
have reflectors for use at night. The condition going rates are for a specific excursion or longer
of road networks has considerably improved in itinerary. A full day of driving one-way will cost
recent years, however, and driving off the beaten from $50-$80 and a 5-day trip around $300.
track is one of the best ways to explore the ter- Much of this is for fuel, so distance is a major
ritory. Check your fuel gauge regularly as there factor. Most of the rest goes to the owner of the
are few gas stations away from the main roads. vehicle and only a tiny percentage left for the
Small roadside fuel shops, indicated by a "Pre- driver. You pay for the driver's meals and ac-
mium" sign, sell gasoline for the bit more than commodations, both while he is with you and
the Pertamina stations. on hisjoumey back home. A tip of Rp5,000 per
A valid international license is required for dri- day is also appreciated if the driver is good.
ving cars and motorbikes. Insurance is not com- The quality of both the driver and the vehicle
pulsory, but strongly recommended. You can get will figure heavily in the enjoyability of your trip
a policy from most of the rental companies and so don't be shy about checking both out before
travel agents. Check the condition of the car be- striking a deal. Your driver should be responsi-
fore signing the contract. Beware: vehicles are ble and have a personality that won't grate on
usually rented with an empty tank. More im- you. If he knows the area and can speak some
portant than the agency you rent from is to English, so much the better. Travel agents can
check and test-drive the car before renting. also arrange such charters for you.
I
hotels sell some handicrafts. Bargain. Most of add $2. Fire-walking $100; traditional dances
the items for sale are stone axes (which quickly $90, plus $65 for local traditional singing. The
fal l apart), penis gourds and string bags from agency can set up a birdwatching tour to Yobi
Wamena, some bad Asmat carvings, and quite on Yapen Island for $150-$390.
nice strings of glass and ceramic beads. The Biak Sentosa Tosiga JI Imam Bonjol 42 , 'lr 21398 ,
carvings are the best of the lot. Biak style fea- 21956; fax: 21988. As elsewhere, tours are ex-
tures ornate scrolls and curlicues, and the pensive for just one or two clients, but the per-
carved figures all feature big noses "to smell lies person price drops dramatically for a large
as they escape from people's lips. " group. City tours, including the caves and beach ,
run $17- $30 for two, $52-$80 if a dance is in-
Markets cluded. A tour to Korem beach costs $22 ; to the
Padaido Islands (Urip, Mansubabo and Nusi)
There is not much excitement in Biak town, but
$90; Owi and Auki, $85.
a walk through the markets can always reveal
new smells and surprises . There are two mar- Janggi Prima Tour and Travel JI. Pramuka 5.
'lr 21673, 22973; fax: 21673.
kets: Pasar Inpres on JI. Teuku Umar, next to
the "termina l" or central taxi station. Here you Ganda Irjaya JI. Imam Bonjol 16. 'lr 21616,
can find fresh food and some dry goods. The 21720.
Pasar Lama market, on JI. Selat Makassar, RUMSRAM is a local NGO that is deve loping
sells birds' of paradise skins, live cockatoos community-based eco-tourism. They have built
(about $40 for a young, healthy one that can say: 4 guest cottages on Dawi Island in the Padiado
"Selamat Pagi!" with some ski ll), Chinese ce- group. $5/person for simple accommodations.
ramics, dry goods, clothes and household items. Bring food from Biak and the villagers will cook
(Of course, don't even th ink about buying the for you. There 's good fish ing and snorkeling
live birds or illegal paradise bird plumes .) with some equipment avai lable for rent ($5 for
fins, mask and snorkel). Dawi Island is 2 and
one-half hours from Saba, 4 hours from Hotel
TOURS Irian by boat. Contact Decky or Emi Rumaropen ,
Biak Paradise Tour and Travel JI. Selat Makas- c/o RUMSRAM, Box 211, Biak, 'lr 22189.
sar, 'lr 218 35, at the Hotel Arumbai. Mr. Joop
Tetelepta, who speaks English and Dutch , runs DIVING
day tours of Biak. Various buses are available,
for $4- $13/hour depending on size of group. Biak Diving Centre JI. Yospan, Marauw, P.O. Box
Mr. Tetelepta 's daily guide fee is $40. For a visit 138, biak 98111. 'lr 81005; fax: 81003. On the
,
to the Japanese cave, add $5; for the bird park, beach of luxurious 5-star Biak Beach Hotel in
BIAK 195
Marauw vi llage, 28 km from Biak city. Offers daily the island, sleeping in villages along the way.
marine tours for divers and non-divers. Pro- While actual travel time is only some 10 hours,
vides diving equipment, fiberglass and tradi- stopping at various villages and exploring the
tional wooden dive boats, glass-bottom boats deep inlet at Bawei will make this joumey much
and friendly professional local dive guides. more memorable than a quick zip around . Much
of the island is fronted by wide tidal flats, and
you can travel close to shore only at high tide.
MISCELLANEOUS Plan on spending one night at Namber, the
Post office. The main office is on JI. A. Yani, to- most beautiful part of Numfor. Boat rental costs
wards the airport. There is a branch office on $12 per hour of actual motoring time.
JI. Sudirman, in town. Both are open 8am-5 pm. Hiring or riding on the back of a motorcycle
Medical. The hospital is Rumah Sakit Umum, is an altemate way to explore the island. Mo-
on JI. Sriwijaya Ridge 1, "Ii" 21294. Some of the torcycle rental (with driver) is $4.50 half day;
doctors speak passable English . Pharmacies in- $7.50 full day. Guide/porter costs $6/day.
clude Apotik Cenderawasih, JI. Imam Bonjol 34, The camat at Yemburwo, whose house is next
"Ii" 21754, and Apotik Gandawati. JI. A. Yani.
to the landing strip, has spare bedrooms and
Bookstore. Pojok Buku, JI. Mongonsidi 18, his wife prepares good meals. Elsewhere, you
"Ii" 21425, 21498. Some English language
could stay with the other cam at at Kameri, a vil-
books, including the best missionary literature lage head, a schoolteacher, or anyone else
on West Papua. with some extra space. Count on paying
$4-$5/day.
Market days at Yemburwo are Wednesday and
Saturday (5:30am-7am). There is electricity
•• W~ff;~f;if'~-\\--CBi;~~n
--
__1\
I,
__ ' J l . Bo3~N:L~
• Food
Asia Restaurant to Bosnik
\\ \\ • Lodging 1.
\:\
\~\
\1\ 1. Hotel Irian 3.
2. Cleopatra Restaurant
Fish Market
_____ -- !.-\ \ \
\
2. Losmen Maju 4. Himalaya Restaurant
----'".,.\ '\ 3. Hotel Mapia 5. Inpres Market
,- \~\ \ \ 4. Losmen Solo
6. R.M. Ri ndu Alam
\-;..\ \ \ 5. Titawaka Home Stay ------.'.'"'.~, ..
7. R.M. Jawa Timur
""-'''-
\ \ \ \ 6. Hotel Arumbai -
\ \ \ with travel agency +
8.
9.
Pujasera Food Stalls
R.M. Ratu Kur ing f.-- - - -.." ..".".," .."'..~
\\\ \ ice· cream palace 10. Rumah Makan 99
$45-60, $100 suite. Breakfast for tour groups. the Matoa Hotel. Jayapura's most popular hang-
Numba JI. Trikora 1, about 5 km from downtown, out. Indonesian and Western baked goods (de-
close to the bemo/taxi route Doc 5. 'lr 33394, lectable black forest cake, eclairs). It's thousands
34185. Run-down , but clean , quiet; nice loca- of kilometers to the next cappuccino and
tion, AC. $20- $24. espresso machines. Nowhere to sit inside-pick
Triton JI. Ahmad Yani 52, P.O. Box 33, 'lr 33218, a spot on the front steps with the locals.
33171.24 rooms. Color1V/video, AC. $18--$45. Yotefa JI. Percetakan 64. Nicely decorated; Eu-
ropean and Indonesian food, cold beer. Chicken,
I
Sentani shrimp, squid dishes , $2- $3; fish , to $5 de-
pending on size; rice and noodle dishes $1- $2.
All include simple breakfast, police for suratjalan,
and transportation to the airport. Warungs and food stalls
Hotel Ratna nearthe airport, 91435. 16 rooms .
$14- 22 AC, including tax, breakfast, transport Lively night market in front of the Pelni office,
to the airport. serving bakso, soto madura, bubur, lots offried
Kartini Hotel JI. Sentan i, 'lr 91478. 17 rooms. bananas and other tasty snacks. A bit further,
$28-$33, all AC . towards the harbor, on JI. Halmahera, there
Mansapur Rani Guest House 200 meters from are cloth-draped stalls serving delicious, inex-
the terminal, JI. Jaboso 113. 20 rooms. $7. pensive grilled fish and squid-big fish steaks
Minang Jaya Just off the main road to Jayapura, $2, whole fish $4. Good ambiance. Other stalls
past airport tumoff. 25 rooms . $9- $15 fan and line up JI. A. Yani near the mosque , including
attached bath, $15- $18 AC. an excellent fried noodle and fried rice stall
Semeru Hotel JI. Yabaso, 'lr 91447.19 rooms. just across from the Triton Hotel .
$17 fan, $22 AC, plus 10% tax. For one-stop dinner and dessert, try the
Sentani Inn 3 km from the airport on the main martabak/terang bulan stalls found through-
road to Jayapura. 16 rooms. Clean, friendly out the city. Martabaks, a substantial vegetable
staff. $9- $16 fan , $12- $16 AC. omelette , are the main course, for only $1. For
afters, take away a terang bulan ("fu ll moon"),
a thick pancake filled with peanuts and choco-
DINING late , 50¢. Cheap, fast and filling .
Hawaii Next to the movie house, just off the park
downtown- good box lunches, shrimp, chicken Sentani
dishes ; reasonably priced, good service, AC. Mickey's (Chinese and some Western fare),
Himalaya JI. Matahari, half block from JI. A. Yani. 91339) and Virgo ( 91193) are recommended .
'lr
Co ld beer. Chicken, pigeon, frog, shrimp, beef
$4-$El; simple, fi lling Chinese dishes $1.50-$2. I
I
'll" 91024, Dr. Oyong'll" 34567. For dental emer- torized dugout canoes rent for $15/ hour; pad-
gencies, drive to Doyo Baru and see Bob Roberts. dled canoes, negotiable. There are only 2 places
certain to rent, Jahim and Yougga Restaurant.
SHOPPING Jahim, the "rnarket harbor" or pelabuhan
pasar, is at the end of a side road that run s by
Store hours in Jayapura generally run from the Sentani town market and ends at the lake .
8am-noon, and then again from 5pm-9pm. There are usually at least half a dozen dugout
Souvenirs can be found at the hotel stores, at canoes stationed here, waiting to ferry pas- .
the shop attached to the University of Cen- sengers to the shoreside villages. ~ •
derawasih Museum and the Museum Negeri Yougga Restaurant, 22 kms from Jayapura,
(see page 82) and at the Perindustrian office in is right next to the rnain road and Lake Sentani.
Abepura. In Hamadi Market there are many Motorboats rent for $16/hr. There is also a 1(}'
stalls selling penis gourds ($1). net bags room los men at this pretty little lakeside setting
($5-$7), stone axes from the highlands ($5-$7), ($14- $20, including breakfast). The restaurant
and small Asmat carvings ($15-$20). specializes in ikan mas (literally, "goldfish,"
If you want your tourist dollars to go directly but bigger than the ornamental variety and as
to the local craftspeople, you can visit the fol- tasty as perch) and tilapia, an imported species
lowing organizations: locally called mujahir, served grilled or fri ed
($2-$10, depending on size). The place is quiet
PPPW (Protestant Women's Development Foun-
on weekdays and busy on weekend s.
dation) just a few km past the university in
Visit Engros village. Engros is a fishing vill age
Padang Bulan on the road to Sentani. Woven bas-
perched on stilts on an island off Abe beach.
kets, jewelry, bark paintings, carvings .
Catch a minibus from Abepura to Abe beach
KKW (Women's Workgroup), also in Padang
(15¢) from where you can be taken t o Engros
Bulan. Accessories and gift bags. by motorboat for $5.
TMF (The Missionary Foundation) in the Protes-
Once you get there, a nice old man will set
tant Mission Center, JI. Sam Ratulangi. Sells a
up mattresses in the "Iosrnen " for yo u and and
variety of local crafts, as well as Christmas or-
fill the "bath" . If you want to eat fresh grilled fish,
naments carved from coconut shell. ask for it ahead of time ($1.50-$6 , depending
Irian Batik JI. Percetakan (main outlet). Much on size). For about $50, you can commission
more brightly co lored and boldly pattemed than
a dance. Twenty to 30 men wearing old beads,
the Javanese-style batik. Produced by a local NGO traditional decorations, and loin cloths. At low
(non-government organization) and sold in stores tide, watch the soccer rnatches next to th e vil-
throughout the city. Main designs are geckos, lage. At high tide, the village perches above some
crocodiles and Asmat-style motifs. 1.5 meters of water. This is a typi cal fishing vil-
Newsweek, Time and the Jakarta Post (Eng- lage , with friendly people and few tourist s.
lish-language daily) are sometimes available at Visit Depapre. By public minibus, Depapre is 2
Toko Buku Labor ('ll" 33173) on JI. Sarn Ratu- hours from Jayapura and costs $2 with several
langi next door to the Airfast shipping office. changes of "taxis." Get your suratjalan checked
at the police post. From there, you can charter
WATERSPORTS a boat for $15 to take you up to Tanah Merah
Bay, drop you off at a nice beach with good snor-
Kolam Renang Tirta Mandela, an oceanside , keling. The boat can pick you up later in the day.
saltwater swimming pool is at Doc 5, JI Samu- Or ask to be taken to the beach vill age of Amai ,
dra #42. This huge outdoor facility has chang- where a loca l NGO, YPMD (Rural Peopl e's De-
ing rooms, a restaurant and lights for night velopment Foundation) has built bunga lows
swimming. Open every day except Thurs, which are available for low-impact , vi llage-cen-
8am-9pm. $1/visit. tered tourism. If you stay in the village , you will
Lumba-Lumba Dive School also operates at be expected to leave a small donation .
Doc 5. They rent diving equipment and run half- -updated by Ann Rocchi/Dave Cox
and full-day diving excursions.
EXCURSIONS
Boating in the harbor. Rent a catamaran (40HP
motor, around $15/hr) and cruise Yos Sudarso
Bay to Kayu Island with its church and Kosong
Island with its mosque. There is a beached
200 PRACTICALITIES
Shaped like the head of the cassowary bird, West Papua's westernmost tip offers a
wide variety of activities. Manokwari, the site of the first missionary post in West Papua,
is the district capital. Superb diving and snorkeling is the attraction of Cenderawasih
Bay. Sorong, an industrial city, is the departure point for birding in the Raja Empat Is-
lands and the pearl farm on Kabra Island. And, off the beaten track, there are the rock
paintings accessible through Fakfak, Kokas, and Kaimana on the Bomberai peninsula,
one of the most beautiful parts of the Indonesian archipelago.
I ~!o~e~~~~!,i
C
Prices in US $. AC=Air-conditioning.
TRANSPORTATION
A Manokwari
2. Losmen Apose Amban Beach
I
3. Hotel Arfak
4. Hotel Maluku
5. Hotel Mokwam
6. Hotel Mulia Not to scale Japanese War Memorlal*
7. Hotel Pusaka
8. Coto Makassar
9. Hawai o Gunung Meja Park *
10. Lumajang '" ~
Panti Asuhan Santo
11. New Garden
~
o
.. VinsensiusjPiahase
12.
13.
Padang Merantau
Soponyono
"
~
;liSt. Augustinus
o.e®
~
r
Ga llery
ll.. ~rn Bank Exim
~ ..... ~ Central Post Office
Karwar .. aTaxi Terminal
r
"', ..{J) .. Fis~'1\~~~eAire J, "Pelni Shopping
"0 Fruit & Harbor
"'
.,,~ "-0 vegetable
I market :::
«
"',
J"
~
Dockyard OHospital
*
To Rendani Airport, YSLBC,
WWF, New Garden. Soponyono,
~~/~:jSO
Sukasari. 11, 13 & 14
Police
\
Teluk Wasi Tel u k
Dareri
BIRD'S HEAD 201
basis . MAF's hangar and operations are lo- including morning and afternoon snack.
cated on the far side of the airport, 'B' 21155. Hotel Mutiara JI. Yos Sudarso . 'B' 21582,
Best to book at least one week in advance . 21788,21777 , fax: 21152. 22 VIP rooms. In-
ternational standard, most luxurious in town. AC,
By Sea hot bath/shower, private balcony. Pleas ant
Pelni Lines' four passenger boats, the Rinjani, restaurant serving mainly Chinese food. One ad-
Umsini, Dobons% and the Ciremai call at vantage of staying at the Mutiara is that you will
Manokwari every two weeks on their routes- get priority on the Merpati flights, as the hotel
from Jakarta (or Surabaya) to Jayapura. Mixed is owned by Merpati. Can be a big advantage
freight/deck passage coastal steamers stop at in times offrequent cancellations. $30-$65, in-
Manokwari every week or two on their run along cluding breakfast and snack, excluding tax.
Hotel Pusaka JI. Bandung. 'B' 21263. 16 rooms.
West Papua's north coast. For details, see
Attached restaurant. $5- $17.
"Transportation" on page 187.
Losmen Apose JI. Kotabaru, opposite the Mer-
pati office. 'B' 21369. 9 rooms. Often full, so book
Getting Around Town ahead. Cheap and clean to boot! $5 fan, shared
Upon arrival at the airport, visitors are usually bath; $10-$12 AC, private bath, excluding tax.
besieged by taxi drivers. Agree on a price be-
forehand-$5 should be sufficient to take you DINING
to any hote l. Altemative ly, just outside the air-
port gate, you can pick up the normal public taxi
(Rp300) to the taxi terminal where you must
" _ , JI. S"d;emao, 22189. lod",,;.o .od CO>
nese menu . Very popular with the local croWd .
1_.-.1
transfer to a Kota taxi to take you to the hotels. Padang Merantau JI. Merdeka. 'B' 21287. Rea-
All local public transport is by mini-bus, which sonably priced Padang style ($1-$2.50). Across
hold 8 passengers and are called "taxis". The the road, the Coto Makasar and the Lumajang
destinations are painted on the side above the serve simple Indonesian dishes (75¢-$2). Also
back wheel. Within the town areas, there are des- good for Indonesian dishes are Soponyono at
ignated stopping points marked by lines on the JI. Trikora Wosi, ('B' 21287) and, opposite it, the
road. Outside the main town areas taxis stop Sukasari ('B' 21597) . Spacious, very clean and
when requested . Routes vary considerably excellent value. (60¢-$1.50).
around the main roads, depending onwhere For the budget traveler, the food stalls at the
passengers want to go. This is a good way of night market, Sanggeng, are a must. Recom-
seeing the town, but can make it very difficult mended are the BBQ fish and sate at $1.10.
to be certain how long a journey will take.
can be seen. Ask to see the women at work. They jalan. There are no commercial accommodations,
have some items for sale. While some pieces so it's either local hospitality or sleeping out.
are beautifully made, others are exercise pieces — u p d a t e d by Jenny Foster-Smith
and prices reflect this.
Sumber Alam Jl. Sudirman 4 7 . Has lots of
porcelain plates and vases (some quite old),
along with beads still used as bride price, awful
A s m a t carvings and s o m e dusty postcards. Cenderawasih Bay
Usually closed, opens on request. Most visitors to the Cenderawasih Bay National
For butterflies, contact Yayasan Bina Lestari M a r i n e P a r k a r r i v e v i a N a b i r e . MAF
Bumi Cenderawasih (YBLBC), Jl. Trikora Wosi, {-& 2 1 3 4 2 , fax: 22329) also flies through Nabire.
PO Box 1 7 5 . » / f a x : 2 2 4 9 3 . Agency for the Pelni also services Nabire with the Rinjani and
Arfak Mountain Birdwing Butterfly Farmers. Most Umsini, each once every two weeks on their way
mornings, newly emerged butterflies can be to and from Jayapura and Surabaya. There is a
seen at the agency and usually there are cater- cheaper a l t e r n a t i v e — t h e ferry t h a t runs
pillars and pupae in the garden. Biak-Yapen-Nabire. Check with a travel agent
in Biak for details.
EXCURSIONS First, report to the police in Nabire with your
surat jalan. Visitors should contact the W W F of-
Anggi Lakes in the Arfak Mountains is a very fice in Nabire at Jl. Martadinata # 1 5 , Nabire,
beautiful area known for its orchids, gladioli and (-& ( 0 9 6 4 ) 2 1 2 8 9 , fax: ( 0 9 6 4 ) 2 1 8 8 8 ) , in ad-
birdwing butterflies. Merpati has two sched- vance. They can arrange to charter boats to some
uled flights each week (Th, Sa; $ 1 3 ) . MAF may of the islands in the park for excellent diving,
also have space available, for about the same snorkeling, and birding. Anggromeos Island has
price. While there are no accommodations in the sizeable bird colonies, Wairondi is home for a
district, either the police or the camat (village large marine turtle population, and Rumberpon
chief) will help you find a place to sleep. Bring Island boasts "world-class reefs."
a sleeping bag, sweater and jacket as it can get
chilly at night up there at elevations over 1,800
meters. Although some food is available lo-
cally, bring a few tins for supplement.
Arfak Mountains Nature Reserve. Home to
several species of bird of paradise and a num-
Sorong
Telephone code is 0951.
ber of rare mammals, such as the white cuscus
and tree kangaroos. Permission from the Forestry
Department (KSDA) is required to enter the re- TRANSPORTATION
serve. For information and asistance, contact
the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) Manokwari office
in advance: WWF, Jl. Trikora Wosi Dalem, PO Box Getting There
1 7 4 , Manokwari. -zr/fax: 2 2 4 9 3 .
Merpati. Jl. A. Yani HBM No. 8 1 , s 2 1 3 4 4 . (also:
Mansinam Island. Site of the first mission out-
STN Mopah, Jl. PGT, & 2 1 1 8 2 . ) Scheduled na-
post in West Papua. Hire a motorized canoe near
tional flights:
the fish market, behind the general market. To
Makassar M, W, Sa (via Ambon) $168
the south of the island, there is a coral-fringed
Manado Th $138
bay for snorkeling and swimming. Off the west
Pelni. The Rinjani, Umsini, Ciremai, and Dobon-
coast, it is sometimes possible to see a sunken
solo all stop in Sorong on their respective routes
WW II Japanese ship. The boats hold 1 0 - 1 5 pas-
between Surabaya and Jayapura.(see "Sea
sengers. Charter prices are negotiable, be-
Travel," page 1 8 6 ) .
tween $ 1 8 - $ 3 0 for a half-day trip.
Pasir Putih. Very beautiful beach with 2 reefs
Getting in and out
for snorkeling, about 5 km from the town cen-
ter. Crowded on Sundays. Minibuses run from Sorong's main airport is on Jefman Island, 2 0
the terminal, 1 5 $ . km east of town. From Jefman, you have no
Prafi village.Transmigration site of 8 villages. choice but to get in a public "longboat" for the
In the last settlement, the traditional woven cloth, $ 3 trip to Sorong, or pay $ 2 3 to charter a boat
kain timor, used as bride price, has been recre- yourself. Taxis at the landing site charge $ 3 to
ated by transmigrants. Minibuses run from the just about any destination in town, but if you are
taxi terminal ( $ 1 . 3 0 - $ 1 . 7 5 ) and $ 1 . 1 0 to War- traveling light, a public minibus on the nearby
mare. Chartering your own minibus for the round main road is 1 5 $ .
trip costs about $ 1 5 . If you decide to spend the To return to the airport from town, your taxi
night in this area, you have to report to the po- (chartered or public) lets you off at the Pelni dock.
lice at Warmare with your passport and surat You need a ticket (6$) to enter the dock area.
BIRD'S HEAD 203
A ferry usually motors to Jefman Island in the Ratulangi. Japanese food, $9-$12jdish; in-
early morning and again in the late afternoon. ternational cuisine, same price.
The one-hour ride costs 85¢ and gets you there
in time for your plane. If you miss the ferry, you
have to charter a boat ($23).
EXCURSIONS
P.T. Makmur Thomas. Kompleks Pertokoan
ACCOMMODATIONS Yohan A15, JI. A. Yani, Sorong, West Papua
98414. 'lI" 21183, 21953, 21594; fax: 21897.
Grand Pacific Hotel JI. Raja Ampat No. 105, This agent, linked with Setia Tours, can arrange
'lI" 22631, 22632, fax: 23643. 48 rooms, AC . regional tours, guides and car service. English-
$37.50-$46.50 standard, $57.50-$66.50 speaking guides, $9jday. Car rentals starting
deluxe, $80-$88.50 suite, including breakfast, at $2.50jhour.
afternoon tea and snacks. Doom Island, Pulau Buaya. $30jperson, min.
Hotel Batanta JI. Barito, 'lI" 23374, 21342. 24 2 people. Doom Island tour, swimming off a fine
roorns. Small dining room only. $9-$19. sandy beach on Buaya, visit to some of the
Hotel Cenderawasih JI. Sam Ratulangi 54, smaller islands.
'lI" 23740, 21966; fax: 23269. With 20 rooms, Kabra Island. $60jperson, min . 4 people. A visit
all AC. Favored by the few expats around. Large to the Japanese cultured pearl farm.
dining room, full menu. Singing entertainment Waigeo Island. Approx. $500jperson (varies,
on Mon, Wed and Sat evenings in the dining
room; well-stocked bar. $10-$12 economy,
d,pocd;,,,, 00 ","omb" Ie th, gmo p. Almo,t I~_
a full day at sea and 4-5 days scouting for birds
.
$14-$17 cottage, $27-$32 standard, $46-$51 of paradise.
suite, including breakfast, tea and shoe shine. Batanta Island, other Raja Empat islands.
Hotel Citra JI. Pemuda, 'lI" 21246. 14 rooms. All (Variable.) Easier to get to than Waigeo, but the
with AC, with dining room, full menu. $12-$53. birds are somewhat more difficult to see here.
Hotel Indah JI. Yos Sudarso, 'lI" 22133. 33 - updated by Ann Rocchi/Dave Cox
rooms . White-tiled, 3-story hotel with an en-
closed balcony which offers a good view of the
Fa kfa k
area. Try to get a room on the third floor. Restau-
rant and car rental. $4.50-$12, including morn-
ing and afternoon snack.
Hotel Pilihan JI. A. Yani, 'lI" 22363 . 15 rooms . It's best to visit Fakfak, Kaimana and Kokas from
Better rooms with AC, otherwise with fan. Kitsch mid-September to November. Don't even con-
figures in yard to amuse guests. $10-$18. sider May through August because of weather
Intercity Hotel JI. Basuki Rahmat 106, 'lI" 23386, constraints.
23385, fax: 23361. 24 rooms . $16-$17.50
economy, $20-$30 standard, $45 executive.
Irian Beach Hotel JI. Yos Sudarso, 'lI" 23782. TRANSPORTATION
$9.50-$12 economy, $14-$17.50 standard,
$20-$24 deluxe.
Losmen Memberamo JI. Sam Ratulangi, Getting There
'lI" 22067. 10 rooms. All AC. Pleasant dining Pelni. The Rinjani stops at Fakfak every two
room with rattan furniture, fair variety of dishes weeks on its route to and from surabaya and
from $1.25 to $3. $17-$22. Jayapura via north Maluku. The Tatamailau
Sahid Mariat Hotel JI. Jend. A. Yani, PO Box 198, stops in during its voyage linking south Su-
23535, fax: 23431. 82 rooms. Part of the na- lawesi and the Nusa Tenggara islands.
tional Sahid chain of luxury hotels . $60-$72
standard, $91-$103 deluxe, $109-$303 suite, Rental of Dugout Canoe
including breakfast, tax and service.
Depends on many factors, such as size of boat,
size of engine (usually 15 or 25 HP), iffuel price
DINING is included or not, supply and demand, skill in
Dofior JI. Jend. Sudirman. Chinese, Indonesian bargaining. As a rough yardstick, figure on about
food ($3 .50-$7 jdish). A view of the sea; con- $40-$80jday.
sidered by some to be the best in town. I
Kaimana
boat arrives to pick up its passengers at the
doorstep. Dugout canoe rental. $50-$70/day,
with driver and assistant.
—updated by Kal Muller Telephone code is 0957.
TRANSPORTATION
Wamena is at the heart of the the Grand Baliem Valley, a long, narrow, fertile valley
enclosed on all sides by mountainous peaks of 2,500 to 3,000 meters, home of the
Dani, once dubbed "Shangri-la." Treks range from "easy" to "strenuous," culminating
with the challenge of climbing Puncak Jaya (Mt. Carstensz), one of the world's three
equatorial glaciers.
Wamena
Merpati. In the air termina l or at JI. Trikora 41.
ozr 31488. Book early, check and recheck.
Flight s can be cancelled for lack of passen-
Telephone code is 0969. gers , breakdowns , and bad weather. Office
hours: 7am-3:30pm, 7 days/week.
MAF. The Missionary Aviation Fellowship maintains
ORIENTATION light aircraft and a helicopter and flies from Wa-
men a to numerous landing strips in the West
Leaving Sentani , you soar up over the lake,
Papua highlands. Their office and terminal are next
across the wide swamps of the Mamberamo
to the Merpati air terminal (ozr 31263). Their
I
Basin, through Pass Va lley and on into the
weekly schedu le (Mon- Sat) is confirmed and
Grand Valley ofthe Baliem. Your airplane touches
posted each Thursday. Check it at their office.
down at Wamena, 45 minutes from Sentani. You
Their first priority, of course, is logistical sup-
pick up your bags and as soon as you reach the
port to the Protestant miss ions, but they also
main part of t he terminal, a smal l army of eager
take paying passengers on a space-avail able
hands (each expecting a t ip, of course) grabs
basis. You normally need to book at least one
your bags to carry to one of the local .losmen,
week in advance to get a seat on the regu lar
all of which are easi ly within walking distance.
flights. Call in the moming. Check on current
(Note: The Ba liem Valley is officially "dry,"
prices.
meaning no alcohol is allowed . Bag searches
Bokond ini 3 times week ly
have loosened up and t here is some to lerance
of small amounts for a tourist's personal use, Tiom 4 times week ly
but we sti ll suggest you respect th is ru le.) Karubaga 3 times weekly
Anggruk once wee kly
Maki 2 times weekly
SURAT JALAN Boma once week ly
Mamit once week ly
Upon arrival in t he airport in Bal iem, the po lice Ke lila once weekly
check your passport and surat j alan. A visit to Kangime once week ly
the police station is no longer necessary. If You can also charter the MAF's planes and he-
you are planning on leaving the val ley itself, you licopter. You have to pay for retum time, unless
wi ll have to show your suratjalan and passport they can do some business on the way back.
(or a photocopy thereof) to the police at keca- They wi ll, however charter for less than 1 hour
matan (subdistrict) centers. For more on the surat flights . They need two weeks' notice for charters.
jalan, see "Travel Advisory," page 178. Cessna 185 or 206 (5 people)
Cessna 208 (9 people)
TRANSPORTATION Hughes 500 helicopter (4 peopl e)
To estimate your cost, figure the Cessnas fly at
Merpati has two flights every day (except Tues- 200 km/hr (the 206 is a turboch arged ve rsion
day) to Wamena from Jayapura ($62). Once of the 185 and thus has a higher ce il ing). For
there , check their scheduled flights to the many a 185/206 this works out t o $1.20/km or,
small grass strips in the high lands, and their split four ways, 30¢ / km.
schedu le is supplemented by the mission air- Note: arriving on a MAF flight doesn't entitle
lines (MAF and AMA), which also offer charters. you to missionary hospitality. Missionaries lead
Be sure your suratjalan specifies any area you busy lives and are not in th e field to entertain
wish to vis it outside Wamena . trave lers. Try not to bother the m. They will, of
206 PRACTICALITIES
course, help you in an emergency. Pondok Wisata "Putri Dani" Jl. Irian 40. PO Box
AMA. The Associated Mission Aviation, the 124, Wamena 99541. 31223. 5 double
Roman Catholic equivalent of MAF, sometimes rooms. Immaculate homestay, hot water, TV, pro-
offers charters out of Wamena. Check with the vides transport to/from airport. Pak F.X., the
AMA office on Jl. Trikora, towards Hetegima. The owner, is also Wamena's homemade ice cream
planes are Cessna 185s. From Wamena: supplier. Get it at the source—chocolate, straw-
Enarotali $480 + 10% berry, durian, jackfruit flavors. Buffet lunch or din-
Ok Sibyl $370 + 10% ner can be ordered, $8/person. $22 shared
Ewer $650 + 10% bath, $28 attached bath.
(also to Kokonau and Timika) Rannu Jaya Hotel Jl. Trikora, across from the
Sentani-Ewer $1,050 Baliem Pilamo. 22 rooms. $24-$35.
Srikandi Hotel Jl. Irian 16. 31367.12 rooms.
Clean, cental, pleasant. Has a "backpackers"
ACCOMMODATIONS feel to it. Can be noisy, especially on Saturday
night karaoke sessions. $15-$25, with coffee,
Other than the Hotel Jayawijaya, 3 km out of tea and light breakfast.
town, all the hotels/losmen are within walking Wio Silimo Traditional Hotel Jl. Wesaput. Eight
distance. The best rooms are at the Nayak small rooms with twin beds, simple bath, $10.
Hotel, just across the road from the airport. Also available, 5 honai.
Baliem Pilamo Hotel Jl. Trikora 114, 31043,
fax: 31798. 33 rooms. Best in town. Good
restaurant serving shrimp or steak ($4), rice or
Luxury
noodle dishes ($1.50-$2), soup and vegetable Baliem Valley Resort Reservations: Jl. Bypass
dishes ($l-$3). $24-$33 standard, $42-$45 Ngurah Rai 300B, PO Box 3419, Denpasar,
VIP (AC, hot water, TV). Bali 80361, -a (0361) 751223, fax: (0361)
Hotel Nayak Jl. Gatot Subroto 1, P.O. Box 1. Di- 752779. Due to open in early 2000, this will
rectly across from the airport, s- 31067. Twelve be the Baliem Valley's first 4-star luxury resort.
rooms with bath. The restaurant has a large 40 bungalows designed in the traditional honai
menu, including sweet and sour chicken or style, spacious round houses with thatched
shrimp ($4). $18-$23. roofs, modern bathrooms and a veranda with a
Losmen Anggrek Jl. Ambon, P.O. Box 12. 8 spectacular view overlooking the valley. The
rooms. Restaurant for guests. $12.50-$22.50, Resort offers nature walks and an extensive
including breakfast and tea or coffee. range of trekking and tour programs, including
Losmen Sjahrial Makmur Jl. Gatot Subroto 5 1 . multi-day visits to the Dani, the Yali, Mt. Trikora,
23 double rooms with bath attached. $7-$13. the Asmat, the jungle nomads in the West
HIGHLANDS 207
Papua heartlands, as we ll as the spirit houses low penis gourd, available in various sizes and
of the Sepik river tribes. Experienced guides, shapes. Prices range from $1-$5 if "deco-
cooks and porters. $85S, $100D. rated" by a local (non-Dani) merchant. A bow with
a set of arrows, $5-$10; noken (net bags)
Outside of town $5-$15, depending on size. Strands of shell
money, sewn on belts, cost $4 on up, de-
Hotel Jayawijaya 3 km out of town off the road pending on the quality of the cowries. Long, nar-
to Pyram id. Eighteen rooms, none with attached row breast-plates of tiny she lls sewn together
bath. Five bathrooms upstairs, 5 downstairs. Rice (wa!i noken) run $15-$20. Various ornamental
paddies and Dani huts in back. Onlyfortour groups. necklaces, with pig's tusks and feathers, $5-$7.
Losmen La-uk Inn On the west side of the main Determining a fair price for a stone adze is dif-
road in Jiwika. $6 for bed and full board. ficult. They range from $4 to a whopping $150,
depending on the type of stone used: greenish
DINING is the most expensive, fol lowed by the blu ish
hues. Check the bind ing to make sure the stone
Most hotels/losmen serve mea ls and there won't fal l out even before you get it home.
are foodsta ll s arou nd the market serving inex- Note: Some ofthese items may be made with
pensive Indonesian food. The Rumah Makan protected species, so look at them carefully.
Mas Budi at JI. Trikora 106 ('l!" 31214) has rice Feathers of any kind will alert a baggage inspector
and noodle dishes for $1.50 and chicken and back home, as wi ll lizard skin. Stick to the net
crayfish for $5. The Shinta Prima, also on JI. bags and gourds if you are not sure.
Trikora, serves Chinese food and freshwater cray-
fish. Meals range between $2- $5.
There are also three restaurants in back of
TRAVEL AGENCIES
the market: The Vemalia, specializing in Chinese As interest in West Papua has grown, so have
and Indonesian dishes ($1- $2.50); the Gem- the number of operators bringing in tourists. A
bira, rice dishes (75¢ - $1); and the Minang number of groups, based in Jakarta, Bali or
I
Jaya, rice and meat (75¢ - $1). Ujung Pandang have begun bringing cl ients to
The Karaoke Baliem Cottage on JI. Thamrin the Baliem Val ley and the highlands. For any tour
is in full swing from 7 pm- 11 pm. that requ ires an inland flight out of Wamena, at
least two weeks' notice is required to reserve
BANK a plane . All the operators will meet their clients
at Sentani airport and provide accommodations
Bank Rakyat Indonesia JI. Trikora . Will change there for the first night. We suggest you figure
$US, $A, ¥, D.M., French francs. They accept out where you would like to go, and write or fax
American Express, Bank of America, Thomas one of these operators well ahead of time .
Cook's, Bank of Tokyo, and Visa Austra lia trav- Chandra Nusantara Tours and Travel JI. Trikora
elers' checks . Hours: Mon-Thurs, 8am-12:30 17 (next to the Sinta Prima Restaurant), PO Box
pm; Fri ti l 11:30am and Sat t il 11am. 225, Wamena. 'l!" 31293, fax: 31299. Or fax,
in Jayapura : (0967) 22318. This outfit is run by
Sam Chandra, who is very experienced in tak-
COMMUNICATIONS ing people to the highlands. Chandra offers
The post office, on JI. Timor, is open Mon- Thurs several different tours, covering the Baliem Val-
from 8am- 2pm; Fri til11am and Sat til 12:30pm. ley, Yali country, Lake Habbema and Trikora, the
The local warte! at JI. Thamrin22 is open 24 Asmat, and some very traditional lowland s
hours for domestic and international direct dia l groups . His operation is very well run. A sample
phonecalls and faxes. of Chandra's tours (all minimum of two peopl e):
5-day Baliem Va lley tour. Exploring th e vall ey
around Wamena, a pig feast, and two nights in
SHAVE AND A HAIRCUT traditional Dani huts slightly modified for west-
erners. $345/person.
Pemangkas Rambut Bangkalan JI. Trikora, 22-<.1ay Remote Tribes Trip to visit the Koroway,
next to the market. Haircut $1, shave 30¢. A Kombay and Yali. Travelling by mission plane,
massage is included. motorized canoe and foot. Features rainforest
walking, treehouse tribes and a Ya li pig festi-
SOUVENIRS val. $1, 785/person, for 4-8 people , all inclusive.
12-day climbing Mt. Trikora. Tent and cold
Souvenirs avai lable at Pasar Nayak and in the weather clothes are essential. Yo ur gu ide will
souvenir shops. You will probably also be offered only go halfway up the mountain with you. In good
items while you are sitting in your hotel lobby weather, you can climb up to t he peak and
or in a restaurant. Vendors can be tenacious . back again from base camp in a day. Bring very
The most popular souvenir is a horim, or yel- heavy leather gloves , as th e rock is extremely
208 PRACTICALITIES
sharp on Trikora. This is a mountaineer's trip, food and Cigarettes. Porters run $3/day, plus
not for tourists. $610/person. food and smokes.
Insos Moon Wijaya Tour & Travel. Run by John If you know some Indonesian, you can hike
Wolff, Hotel Nayak (opposite the airport of Wa- by yourself, frequently asking for directions (if
mena), PO Box 57, Wamena. "n'" 31067. We rec- there's anyone around to ask). But trails often
ommend John Wolff for his pioneering work in run off into the gardens and you might have to
opening up many areas to trekkers, his con- backtrack-often . We recommend always using
nections with the military in getting permits and a guide. For a longer trip, your guide can help
the fact that he has himself walked to many you estimate how many porters you will need.
places with his groups. He owns the Nayak and Minibus/Taxis. Public minibuses run every-
Jayawijaya hotels in Wamena, and lives there where in the valley the road does. Some sam-
most of the year. Wolff also offers plenty of long ple fares from Wamena: Ibele (55¢), Uwosilimo
hikes for those in good physical condition. (80¢), Sugokmo ($1.10), Pugima (50¢), Walesi
See also Insatra Exclusive Tours mentioned (50¢), Kurima ($1), Tulem ($1), Pass Valley ($4,
in the"Recommended Travel Agents" section of 4 hours each way), Maki ($5). To charter, mul-
the Travel Advisory, page 183. tiply the usual fare by 12, or figure about
$6.50/hour. You can negotiate a separate price
for waiting time. Taking a minibus to the furthest
TRAVEL IN THE HIGHLANDS point it can reach on your planned route is a good
way to get out of the valley quicker.
Several tourist attractions around the Baliem Val-
It costs $100 to charter a minibus to the Lake
ley can now be reached by minibus on a dirt road Habbema area, one-way. It is also possible to
network from Wamena: Dani villages, mum-
hitch a ride with road construction crews who
mies, markets, and caves. Of course, al l the are working in that area. Check with your los-
crowds go to these places, and the experience men for information.
may not be what you had in mind. In and around Hiking. As long as you stay in the valley, walk-
the Baliem (as in life in general), the further you ing is level and easy. Ifthe side valleys require
wa lk, the more rewarding the view, and the uphi ll trudges, the scenery makes the effort
more personal , and more unsullied by com- worthwhile, especially in the Wolo and Welesi
mercialism, the experience. Valleys. Agency tours cover several areas of the
I~
One of the best strategies for a long trek is Baliem, but with a little Indonesian and some
to fly out and walk back. This is particularly im- initiative, you can easily plan your own itinerary.
-. portant if you are under any time constraints, The rainy season in the Baliem is from Oc-
as it lets you get much further out. These walks tober to December with the driest months (the-
are real adventures, through beautiful country oretically) being June and July. But it's not worth
and not very difficult if you have time and are it to plan your trip for the drier season, be-
in relatively good physical shape. cause it still rains plenty. When it does rain, it's
Make sure your suratjalan covers your des- usually in the late aftemoon, at night or early
tination before you leave, and bring along any moming. It's much more pleasant to walk under
supplies you need that you don't think you will a cool, cloudy sky than the blazing sun, al-
be able to get in your destination. Remember, though parts of the trail can get very muddy and
in most Dani villages you cannot so much as slippery. In many places you have to clamber
buy a pack of cigarettes (although if there is a over stone or wooden fences but there's always
schoolteacher there, he might have a few items) a system of stones, logs and branches where
although sweet potatoes and other essentials the trail comes up to a fence.
are available. For short hikes (2 hours or less) and retum-
If you have a good guide in Wamena you ing to Wamena or Jiwika to ovemight, only a few
have worked with before, you may want to fly him essentials are required : hat, sunscreen, drink-
out as we ll , but remember that although guides ing water, sunglasses, tennis shoes and a wa-
from Wamena might spe ak English, they prob- terproof jacket. For longer hikes, bring all all of
ably know their way we ll only around the valley the above plus sturdy, comfortable boots. For
itself. You can find guide/porters at the other ovemighting, bring a sleeping bag or blanket, and
end, perhaps enlisting the aid of schoolteach- insect repellent.
ers or policemen to arrange this. (If you have You can almost always stay with government
the budget, you could bring one guide from Wa- officials or in a Dani honai. (If you will be trav-
mena who speaks English and hire another at eling to places where there are no villages,
your destination who knows the trails.) bring a tent.) Figure on paying $5/night for ac-
Guides . If you arrange your trip through a travel commodations . Although you can often pur-
agency, a guide and porters will come with the chase food (but not meals) in villages, it's best
package. On your own , you can pick up a guide to bring some of the essentials such as rice,
when you arrive in Wamena- either at the air- t inned fish, coffee, sugar, spoons, plates and
port or at your hotel/losmen. Local guides who cooking gear. Toilets, if any, are of the squat-
speak a bit of English charge $15/day, plus their over-h ole variety. Bring toilet paper unless you
HIGHLANDS 209
can adapt your sensibilities to the prevailing water ing bag, rain-proof clothes, leather gloves, high-
and left hand method. quality hiking boots, rope, crampon, ice-axe) must
Walking Times. For the estimates below, figure be carried . The final requirement is a special
a day equa ls 8 hours of walking: mountaineering permit (surat ja/an) which in-
Wamena- Pyramid 1 day volves an expensive and time-consuming pro-
Pyramid- Bokondini 1 day cedure in Jakarta.
Bokondini-Karubaga 1 day It is recommended to book th is tour through
Karubaga- Mulia 3 days an authorized and experienced Indonesian
Mulia- Sinak 3- 6 days agent, such as Insatra Exclusive Tours , run by
Sinak- Beoga 4-5 days Rudy Wil lem (see "Travel Advisory, " page 183)
Beoga- liaga 7-10 days or Trekmate Outdoor Adventures, JI. Lamandau
Wamena- Lake Habbema 3 days Raya 14, Kebayoran, Jakarta 12130; 'a' (021)
Wamena- Daelah 1 day 710-186, fax: (021) 7206927.
Daelah-Tiom 1 day Prices for the round-trip from Biak vary from
Tiom- Karubaga 1 day US$3,000- US$5 ,000/person or more, de-
Photography. Men wearing penis gourds and pending on the number of participants in the
grass-skirted women make exciting photo sub- group. Obtain detailed offers from the above
jects. They will also ask to be paid for partici- agents well in advance. Allow 3- 4 months at
pating in your exotic photo opportunities. Don't least to get the mountain permit.
grumble, as this is the on ly direct benefit most In addition to securing the mountain permit,
Dani receive from foreigners, who spent a lot the local agent wi ll arrange for a supply offood,
of money getting to the Baliem to see them . a rel iable, English-speaking local guide, porters
I
Aside from a few menial jobs in hotel restaurants, who will carry tourist and mountaineering equ ip-
tourist dollars flow into non-Dani pockets. Some- ment and food , and chartered planes (Twin
times, if you take a series of photos , your sub- Otter) from Nabire to lIaga and return.
jects might ask for more money. We suggest
going along with any reasonable demand, up to,
say, Rp 1,000. Outside of the valley, most peo-
EXPEDITION
ple will not ask for payment to be photographed. Fly from Biak (daily flights) or Jayapura (daily
There is usually a line waiting to photograph flights via Biak) to the coastal town of Nabire '_
__ ,
the Jawika mummy. Cost is $2.50 for a maxi- for an overnight stay. A chartered Merpati Twin- •
mum of 5 photos. Otter will take you to lIaga (2,300 m), a small
Ceremonies and dances . As soon as you arrive vilage at the foot of the Sudirman Range . This
in Wamena, and wherever else you go, ask if is where the porters are hired, the supply of
there are any ceremon ies. Births, marriages, first sweet potatoes is bought and the mountain
menstruation, first wearing of the penis gourd permits are checked again by police and mi li-
and funerals are occasions for Dani rituals tary commanders.
throughout the year. If you happen on any of You must wake up at dawn for an early start
these ceremonies, find the kepa/a suku (clan because the rains start at noon or early after-
chief) or whoever is in cha rge to obtain per- noon . On the first day, it will be a consta nt
mission to photograph . Expect to pay $6-$30 climb through tropical rainforest for 8 hou rs to
for the privilege. Kama II, the first camp (elevation 3,500 m). The
-updated by Ann Rocchi/Dave Cox second day is another full 8 hours of walking,
crossing the Zengillorong Plateau, staying at
Climbing Puncak Jaya 3,500 m, passing through swamps covered
with ferns, rhododendron, and crippled firtrees.
The peak of Puncak Jaya (formerly known as Mt. Destination : Camp 2 on the Aminggame River.
Carstensz), 4 ,884m, can be reached only by The third day starts with wading through the
walking for 6 days from lIaga through humid jun- river several times . You will reach Camp 3 (Ma-
gles, swampy high lands and rocky terrain. This is palabolum) on the Plateau after 7 hours of hik-
the highest peak between the Andes and the Hi- ing. Another 8 hours of trekking on the fourth
malayas. This tour (15-20 days roundtrip from Biak) day will take you over the Kemabu Plateau and
can be done throughout the whole year, as there along two mountain lakes to arrive at Camp 4,
is no settled weather season in West Papua. Rock Shelter Koomalenikime.
On the fifth day, when the summit of Puncak
PREPARATIONS Jaya is sighted for the first time, all the porters
will start shouting, "Dugundugu," which means
One must be in perfect health , have the stamina "Slush mountain! " To reach the day's destina-
to hike for 7-8 hours every day and have a good tion, the 2 Larson Lakes (4,000 m), you have
sense of ba lance . As this hike is rated III-IV in to cross 3 rivers and pass Discovery Lake
difficulty, it is only for experienced mountaineers. (about 6 hours). Stay overnight on the Lake Lar-
Camping and mountaineering outfit (tent, sleep- son site in front of Rock Shelter Mapala at the
210 PRACTICALITIES
I~
back to llaga (about 5 days) and report back to
the police again. equipment. However, it is useful to bring along
leather gloves because of the sharp rocks .
-. The Dani tribesmen will celebrate their safe
return by having a pig slaughtering feast with na- Day 7: Descend in about 8 hours to a little hut
tive dances which you may also enjoy on your called "Konopa", in the rainforest on the way
last day in , the highlands before returning to to Wallai. Overnight stay in a tented camp.
Nabire by chartered Merpati plane. Day 8: Walk for about 6 hours through tropical
-by Rainer Haarring rainforest. There are many tropical flowers along
the trail. Quite often , you have to balance your
way along big logs which are wet and slippery.
Climbing Mt. Trikora However, the porters are quite helpful sup-
To reach the second highest peak in West porting you. The tents wi ll be put up at Papililo,
Papua requires 9 days of trekking. the first village after leaving the forest.
Day 9: Easy descent through farmers' fields to-
wards the Baliem Valley. After passing through
PREPARATIONS the vi ll age of Wal lai and Walesi, you return to
You must be healthy and in good physical con- Wamena in about 9 hours.
dition . The daily walking time is 7- 9 hours . It - by Rainer Haarring
is important to be sure-footed and steady to wade
through fast flowing rivers or to cross them
over swaying suspension bridges . Sometimes
Yali Highlands
the trails are quite wet and muddy especially in Whereas the Dani inhabit the Baliem Valley
the tropical rainforests where it rains almost every and the Western Highlands, the Yali live in the
day. highlands east of Wamena. In the past, this tribe
Your tour operator in Wamena must obtain had a reputation for being extremely crue l and
a special permit (surat ja/an) from the police, crafty warriors. Today, you meet peaceful, friendly
must hire a cook and porters, and must get suf- people, of whom about 50,000 live in the area
ficient food for everyone for the 9-day trek . around Angguruk, Kosarek and Ninia.
Every member of the group must have their
own porter. Tour operators charge US$900 PREPARATIONS
-$1 ,000jperson for this tour, depending on
the number of partiCipants. This fee includes a This 10-day trekking tour for hikers in good
guide, porters, food , and tents. health must be well-prepared for in Wamena. A
HIGHLANDS 211
guide, a cook and porters to carry the food and mmjyear. There are rare orchids and rhodo-
cooking utensils should be hired. Tents are not dendron flowering. A few years ago, German mis-
needed. A permit (suratjalan) must be obtained sionaries built 2 huts from zinc plates to serve
from the police headquarters in Jayapura. as a shelter for local people who crossed this
The tour operator must arrange to fly (through mountain on their way to and from Wamena. Pre-
MAF Wamena) sufficient amounts of food to viously, people sometimes froze to death when
Angguruk for the stay there and the onward they were caught by sudden freezing weather on
trek to Kosarek. Vegetables and Irish and sweet top of the mountain. The way down on the east-
potatoes are available only on Tuesday and Fri- ern side is a bit steep , however, poles and lad-
day, the market days in Angguruk. Prior to the ders serve as good supports. After an hour's walk
departure from Wamena, arrangements must be through the rainforest belt, the view opens to-
made with MAF or SIL (Summer Institute of Lin- wards the south-eastern highlands of the Yali
guistics, Jayapura) Airport Base Managers to fly area with Pronggoli, the day's target, below. You
the group back from Kosarek to Wamena on a can stay at the missionaries ' guesthouse . The
charter basis on a fixed day. The flying time is hike from Kiroma over Mt. Elit to Pronggoli
30 minutes . Tour operators are charging takes 9- 10 hours.
US$700--$800jperson , depending on the num- The fourth day takes you up through sweet
ber of participants. The fee includes guide , potato fields to the Fung-Fung Pass and down
porters, food , and lodging, but excludes air fares. to Angguruk on the Jahuli River. Trekking time:
7-8 hours. Relax in the friendly, spacious guest-
house of the hospital Rumah Sakit Effata, op-
TREK erated by the Diakonia Foundation, belonging
To reach the Yali region, take a taxi from Wa- to the Portestant Church of Indonesia (GKI) .
mena to Sugogmo. After crossing the Wamne Angguruk is a good place to rest and relax for
river, follow the a dirt road along the Baliem River. 2-3 days, making daily excursions to the sur-
You will pass Hetigima, where the AMA mis- rounding villages , such as Pasikni, Muhum,
sionaries built the first airstrip in 1954. Wanijok, Walei.
At Sugogmo, the road leading to the east The Angguruk airstrip is served weekly by
ends. This is where the real trek begins. A MAF which supplies the community with their
small trail leads down to a suspension bridge basic needs. Besides the pastor and his evan- I
which crosses the gurgling Baliem River. Follow gelists, there are the medical doctor, his nurses, .~_ ,
the Baliem on the eastem side through Seinma. 4 teachers , and an agricultural cooperatives co- •
Climbing slowly, you can enjoy a marvelous ordinator.
view back into the Grand Baliem Valley. After an On the second part of the trek to Kosarek,
hour of hiking, you leave the Baliem and follow the trail leads from Angguruk down to the Uba-
the Mugwi River. After crossing it at Duarima, hak River, where there is a good bridge, and then
the trail climbs continuously up to Yahosim . It up again, steeply, on poles and ladders to
leads through fields of sweet potatoes and veg- Helariki, from where you can enjoy a panoramic
etables. The journey from Wamena to Yahosim view back towards the whole Angguruk area. On-
takes about 8 hours. You can stay overnight here wards to Mimbeam, the day's destination, in 7-8
at the primary school. The airstrip is no longer hours, you pass through tropical forest , where
in use. you may watch some of West Papua's birds, such
The second day's 7-hour hike brings you to as the white cockatoo , the flightless cassowary,
the village called Kiroma , at the foot of Mt. Elit. parrots, the black sicklebill, the red lory, the mam-
Stay at the little house of the local security guard bruk (crowned pigeon), or even the bird of par-
(hansip). The cook will prepare the food in the adise. The Obalihi River and the Pundan River
honai, where the entire group can sit around the have to be crossed to reach Mimbeam . Stay at
fireplace and enjoy the cozy atmosphere . It is the Public Health Post.
a good place to dry wet clothes overnight. The next day is easy trekking through farm-
Leave at dawn the next day in order to climb ers ' fields to Telampela (4-5 hours) , where vis-
the 3,600 m high Mt. Elit before the usual af- itors may stay overnight at the teacher's house.
ternoon rain. Pass through dense tropical rain- The last day of this tour takes you over the
forest where the trail is quite muddy because Jenggo Mountain (2,100 m) and further on
it does not dry up during the sunshine hours. through Serekasi to Kosarek (6 hours) . At
The following climb (3 hours) is easy. Mt. Elit Kosarek, visitors can stay at the village guest-
does not have a real peak; instead, there is a house. From Kosarek, fly back to Wamena on
wet, swampy plateau . After all, the estimated the pre-arranged MAF charter.
rainfall on this mountain is about 5 ,000-6,000 -by Rainer Haarring
Timika lies between the seaport at Amamapare and Tembagapura (Copper City), the
Freeport company town that is now home to 17,000 staff, family, and mineworkers.
Timika, which has become economically affluent, is not geared for tourists. There are
no travel agencies catering to foreigners, so don't expect to run into English-speaking
guides. Only the Sheraton Hotel has English-speaking staff and they could help make
travel arrangements on an informal basis, but this may take time. While fascinating
from a sociological pOint of view, there are few tourist attractions in the Timika area.
It is, however, a gateway to the Asmat area, as well as the lesser-known but equally
interesting Kamoro culture located much closer.
Prices in US $. Telephone code is 0979. AC=Air-conditioning.
I
rnain centers of transmigration from Java . either the Baliem Valley or the Asmat. Those
The town of Timika, which started as a few places, however, are not easy to reach, and once
shacks built by West Papuans working as labor- there, the facilities are short of stellar.
ers on the road and the airport, began to take off Meanwhile, in the Timika area, thanks to
in the mid-1980s to becorne a sprawling town of the investment in infrastructure by Freeport In-
perhaps 50,000 inhabitants. Statistics are hard donesia (a huge, American-based mining com-
to come by as the growth of the town has been pany), you have the best landing strip east of
Tembagapura
to
Ertsberg
.
• A
Concentrator
Timika '" Tramway
Tunnel
Barge Loading
A
s. Tip,uka
Not to scale
TIMIKA 213
Makassar, the best hotel on the island (along The central market is also the collective taxi
with many lesser and cheaper accommoda- station for most destinations on fixed routes.
tions), a good network of roads, and the boom The co lor of the minibus determines its route,
town of Timika. And, thanks to the mining com- e.g. the brown minibuses go to Kua la Kencana
pany's wide-spread malaria control program , for Rp2,000/passenger or Rp20,000 for char-
this disease has been brought under control in ter. There is another bus station, located about
the area. 1.5 km. from the market, on the road heading
south. This road, badly paved most ofthe way,
TRANSPORTATION runs south to the Wania River, the take-off point
to the more isolated Kamoro villages.
THIS is where the real adventures start: out
By Air to the jungle where there are no electricity, no
radios, no health services (malaria is endemic!
The town ofTimika is well connected by sched- take precautions) and all communications are
uled fl ights with westem Indonesia via Makas-
exclus ively water-borne. And, of course, no ho-
sar, as well as Biak, Jayapura and flights to Man-
tels, restaurants or English speakers. No
ado via Sorong.
tourists either. If you venture this way, you
In late 1999, a weekly charter flight was
qualify as a traveler.
opened to Darwin , run by an Australian travel
agency. Round trip is $430. This flight is open
to the public and, in its initial stages, partially ACCOMMODATIONS
subsidized by Freeport. The Indonesian con-
su late in Darwin issues visas which are needed The Amole Jaya, located in town , is clean and
in advance as Timika does not have the type of run by a pleasant lady from Manado . Meals can
immigration service which grants tourist visas be ordered at $1.25; laundry is cheap. Most of
upon arrival. the guests are West Papuans. The rooms have
Both AMA and MAF run unscheduled flights fans and attached toilets with ladle-type baths .
to the interior when there are enough passen- $7, with light morning and afternoon snacks .
gers. With sufficient lead times, their planes Minibus-taxi for rent for $3.50/hour.
can also be chartered: expensive, but efficient The large Serayu Hotel is located very close
for small groups. to the central market. An attached restaurant
serves meals. The military often use this hotel .
By Sea $7-$100 suite .
For a medium-priced hotel, we recommend the
Pelni. The Tatamai/au regularly calls at the gov-
GSBJ, which caters to expat workers. Nice swim-
ernment dock located south of Timika. Getting
ming pool , bar, TV with CNN. Large addition due
to the dock involves a trip of over an hour by road
to open in early 2000 . Until it opens, the place
and up to two hours by river. Other ships tak-
can be full on weekends. $30.
ing passengers also call at this dock. Informa-
tion about these ships can be obtained at the The four-star international class Sheraton
Inn Timika (PO Box 3, Timika 98663, '5' 549-
Pelni office near the central market.
Freight schooners of the pinisi type and 5959, fax: 549-4950) has English-speaking
larger metal-hulled vesse ls bring cargo and pas- staff and 84 rooms. Unique low-rise building nes-
sengers from western Indonesia to the Wania tled in tropica l ra inforest. No surat ja/an is re-
rivers, tying up to unload at the villages of Hiri- quired. $200 and up.
pau and Pomako, located an hour's drive south
ofTimika . DINING
Getting Around There are several good-to-excellent fish , seafood
and mangrove crab eateries in town along with
A system of roads radiates out of Timika. Most
the Padang-style cooking. Meal prices in town
of these roads link the currently existing 12 trans-
range from $3- $10 .
migration towns (more are planned) to the urban
center with its large daily market, schools, I
shops, banks, and government offices. MEDICAL
Within town, there are yellow collect ive
minibuses charging Rp500/trip anywhere on their The government hospital in town has been sup-
routes wh ich are determined by passenger re- plemented with a modern, efficient hospital a
quests. Within town, and further as we ll , a sys- few ki lometers away. Built with development
tem of motorcycle-taxis, or ojek, takes pas- funds from Freeport and run by Caritas, a
sengers for Rpl ,OOO in town, prices to be Roman Catholic order with an excellent repu-
negotiated for out-of-town trips, e.g. for the Ma- tation in health care, it is open to everyone on
puru Jaya area, Rp20,000. a low-fee basis.
214 PRACTICALITIES
-4KAMORO
brand name of the outboard engines, which
today are all Yamahas). The mangroves begin
less than an hour down the Wania River.
At first glance, it does not seem that mangrove
The tribal lands of the Kamoro stretch from swamp forest should rank among the world's
Etna Bay and east along the Arafura Sea most productive eco-systems. However, it is,
some 300 kilometers, up to the territory of the along with the tropical rain forests and coral reefs
Asmat. Long neglected due to their isolation, the and, unfortunately, it is as fragile as these two
Kamoro never received the fame and fortune of other super-producers. The muddy substrate,
their neighbors, the Asmat. However, now the made up of minute alluvial particles lacks oxy-
Freeport mining company has built an infra- gen and stability. For most people, it just a
structure which opens Kamoro land to visitors. muddy mess which stinks-this is the smel l of
Kamoro carvings can be as good as those of hydrogen sulfide indicating the completely anaer-
the Asmat and their ancient traditions, includ- obic (lacking in oxygen) property of water-logged
ing spectac,ular initiation ritua ls, are still par- soil. When combined with the daily doses of con-
tially followed. centrated salt water, no self-respecting plant
I
Every year, the Kamoro gather for a huge fes- would want to make its home in this environment.
tival, highl ighted by canoe races, a traditional Yet the thick mass of trees and shrubs fills all
dance competition and an auction of their best spaces where the essential sunlight can perform
carvings . This festival takes place just after its photosynthetic miracle. Plant species are re-
the Asmat auction which begins on the second stricted to a few dozen belonging to a number
Monday of October and lasts three days. The of very wide-spread and different families . All the
Kamoros' festival starts on the following Thurs- different mangrove species had to evolve phys-
day and runs through Sunday. ical characteristics to adapt to the same milieu-
a three fold system consisting of aerial roots to
cope with low substrate oxygen and soil mobil-
TRANSPORTATION ity; salt-extrusion strategies via specialized
glands and vivipary, or seed germination prior
Timika is the jump-off point to visit this group. to parental release. Adapting to these conditions
While some Kamoro villages are reachable by was the only way for these species to survive .
road, the more interesting ones, as well as the As a factory of biomass, mangroves are the
Asmat region, requ ire travel by boat. green machine, the efficient converter of na-
The Arafura Sea can be quite rough, especially ture's limitless resources: the swamp produces
in the December-January period. The best times raw material, lignocellulose , from sea water by
to travel by dugout canoe and outboard motor, using renewable energy source, mostly sunlight,
the most common means for the locals to get along with tidal energy. The fal len leaves and rot-
around, are during April and October. Except for ting wood of the mangroves are recycled by many
the far western stretch ofthe Kamoro area, from microscopic organisms such as bacteria and a
around Poronggo and towards Etna Bay, canoe few large animals like crabs. There is a wealth
travel to villages is possible on the interconnected offood to be had in the mangrove swamps, a fact
river systems near the coast. This, however, is well known to many a fish and invertebrate
cons iderably slower than travel by sea and con- species wh ich use the area as a nursery and often
TIMIKA 215
as a permanent home. Many commercial species, to determine the potential of the area for eco-
especially large shrimp and fish, such as snap- tourism. Dr. Vance de Fretes, the director of the
pers and breams, barramudi and mackerel grow West Papua office of Conservation Intemational
up in the protected mangrove nurseries. Smaller, and Ary Suhandi, their eco-tourism expert, spent
non-commercial species also spend their juvenile a week in Kekwa vil lage with me .
stages in the mangroves, to be later gobbled by We took several tours of the area by dugout
larger fish when they migrate to the open ocean. canoe and held long meetings with the chief and
The Kamoro take advantage of the variety of men of the village to explain tourism in general
foodstuffs and other resources found in the and eco-tourism in particular. The response was
mangroves. Almost every tree, leaf, sap or bush overwhelmingly enthusiastic, perhaps too much
has a use in their culture, in house construction, so as we were not certain if the people really un-
medicine or the myriad of necessities, such as derstood everything we were trying to communi-
glue to fix the lizard skin top of a drum. The men cate. Why wou ld anyone be interested in coming
fish with line and hook in the swamp's water- to see the mangroves? Who would be interested
ways and with nets in the river estuaries and just in Kamoro culture? We did out best to answer these
off the beach. The women set out on a daily and many other questions, as we ll as trying to ex-
round of gathering in the mangroves . They bring plain that outsiders were different in the ir re-
back bivalve mollusks of many kinds, gas- quirements and needed to have fairly well fixed
tropods, fish caught by laying down screen- schedules, unlike the very loose Kamoro system
dams across tidal creeks , delicious mangrove of living only by the flow ofthe tides. How well they
crabs. It is not unusual to see a man and his understood these strange concepts and to what
wife , sometimes with the kids, in an idyllic extent will they make allowances for a different
scene quietly fishing by the side of an open wa- life-style? Only time will tell. Be that as it may, at
terway in the swamp, each with a line in the our suggestion, they started building a spacious
water. Families also get together in the cutting house, using only traditional materials, as proof
and processing of sago trees which are found oftheirwillingness to partiCipate in the program.
in strands just inland from the sago forest, at
the edge of the tida l movements. A man and his
wife can process enough sago in a day to last KEKWA VILLAGE
the family for a week.
Every village has a govemment built health We picked Kekwa village for several reasons:
clinic, but almost none has a nurse or medicines. it is not too close to the modern developments
All vil lages have a primary school, but many of around Timika , yet not too far way as to make
the teachers are absent much of the year, at- the boat ride there a brutal experience. It rep-
tending to administrative business . Most villagers resented the best combination of age-old tra-
have no way to market the ir surplus products ditions and opening to the modern world. Kekwa
I
or to purchase the necessities of life such as vi ll age won the dance competition at the first
cooking oil, parangs or mosquito nets . In fact, all-Kamoro festival and one of their carvings had
from a health, educational and economic point fetched the highest price in the auction of sculp-
of view, the Kamoro villages were far better off tures. Despite all of these 'plusses ' , we picked
during the colonial era than under the current Kekwa for its enthusiasm.
administration, in addition to the fact that since Kekwa village combines most ofthe Kamoro's
the economic crisis various programs have traditional life style while opening to the outside
been cut back or stopped altogether. The world; a difficult balancing act. While traditional
Freeport Malaria Control teams provide the only medicine based on plants with an occasional
regular health service to many Kamoro villages, dose of magic, is still used, the effects of west-
all eight within its project area and once a month ern medicine are also most appreciated and
for six others within reasonable boating distance . sought. This village is one of the six which re-
ceives a monthly visit by the mining company's
medical team . Unlike some other villages,
ECO-TOURISM Kekwa shows a high degree of enthusiasm and
participation in community projects while it has
The potential for eco-tourism has long been adhered to the traditional style houses with
present on the south coast of West Papua, but gaba-gaba walls and thatch roofing instead of
the lack of infrastructure prevented any serious the more practical but awful looking tin roofs
development of this idea. Now, thanks to the which turn homes into ovens under the hot sun
facilities which have developed in conjunction or reverberate with an infernal crescendo dur-
with the mining activities in the area , the pos- ing a heavy downpour. While many parents are
sibility of eco-tourism is definitely there. apathetic about their children's schooling,
Following preliminary discussions between Kekwa has produced more than its share of well-
Conservation Intemational and Freeport, in Sep- educated' Kamoro, including the bupati of the
tember 1998, an initial survey trip was made Mimika kabupaten , a school principal and a
216 PRACTICALITIES
record of 23 primary school teachers. the pure-starch sago pith, thus efficiently con-
Protected by a wall of casuarina trees, the vil- verting carbohydrate to protein. Can you eat one?
lage sits on a wide sand strip facing the shore Try it. If you do, following the above technique,
ofthe Arafura Sea. At the far side ofthe village, the village chief will reward you with a fine lo-
the mangrove forest begins, stretching inland cal ly carved wood figure, absolutely free of
well over ten kilometers. This is the Kamoro su- charge . If al l this is just a bit beyond your gas-
permarket, where the ladies fetch food for their tronomic level of competence, the grubs can be
families every day, with the timing of the shop- cooked, but no sculpture for eating these.
ping expeditions determined by the tides. The eco-tourism program set up at Kekwa
The menu? Fresh fish of many delicious va- starts in Tim ika and includes an outboard-pow-
rieties, grilled, baked or boi led with spices, ered canoe ride to the village. The trip takes in
complemented with rich-textured sago, pipin' hot as much of the Kamoro daily activities as the
off the grill. More exotic? Try the mangrove participants' time allows, along with traditional
crabs, cooked to perfection and cracked for dances and paddled canoe rides in the mangrove
easy pickings. How about an Obelix-sized chunk swamp. The facilities provided include a tradi-
of wild boar to go with that? Still more exotic? tional house with kitchen and bath (ladle-kind)
Try the long, slimy tambe lo worms, related to and toi let, as well as local food. The Kamoro fare
boring ships' worms, pulled out of rotting wood. is based on sago, made from the pith ofthe sago
Not nearly as bad as it looks-it's really a bi- palm, and fish. Almost no store-bought items are
valve mollusk, tasting like a sweet, delicious oys- eaten as the Kamoro lack cash to make these
ter. And the ultimate in exotic fare: fat, wiggly purchases. The program at the vi llage also in-
sago worms with hard, biting heads. Eating cludes a traditional reception and dances in local
.... technique: hold it by the front end and bite off costumes and finery. The total experience adds
the head, flick head away and nonchalantly up to much more than the sum of its parts. For
chew slowly, then swallow. If you chewed enough, those with an open mind, this trip can enrich
the legs have stopped squirming to protest out- one's experience, vision and understanding of
rageous fate. Voila! Grub down your gu llet. a cultural group living in harmony with its unique
Note: the sago grub is the larva of a beetle that environment.
burrows only in a special palm trunk. It only eats - Kat Muller
I
ASMAT
Home of one of the most famous ethnic groups of West Papua, the Asmat region still
does not receive as many visitors as other areas of the province. Infrastructure is lim-
ited and transportation in and out of the area is unpredictable. Agats, the capital, is
the commercial and educational center of the region and the base for the influential
Catholic mission. Visits to the villages spread out along the network of rivers by
dugout canoe can be arranged in nearby Sjuru.
Prices are in US $.
I
Tual-Dobo-Timika then returning by the same your trip to visit the Asmat, you can be forgiven
route and then to Denpasar-Badas-Makas- for your rising anger. But keep it in check, as it
sar-Baubau-Ambon-Amahai-Fakfak-Kaimana- will only make things worse. Ybu cannot avoid
Timika-Agats-Merauke then returns by ap- the escort.
proximately the same route . It's about a week These trips are really the only way for the po-
between Denpasar and Agats. Check at the lice to get out of Agats; it is a little junket for
Pelni office in Denpasar/Benoa (JI. Pelabuhan them . Best to try to work out a modus operandi,
Benoa, 'B' (0361) 723483, fax: 720962) for cur- as diplomatically as possible. If you set one of _- ",
rent schedules. these bundles of machismo off, you really are
Coasters. Two local mixed freighters out of going to ruin your trip. Firstly, do not pay for his
Merauke call at various places along the coast "services." You may be asked for some money
and rivers on the following routes : for this man. Tell the guide you have hired that
1) Merauke-Kimam-Bade-Agats-Sawa- the police officer can eat from your provisions,
Erma and back the same way. but he gets no money.
2) Merauke-Kiam-Bayun-Atsj-Asgon- It really hEllps to speak Indonesian in these
Senggoand back. circumstances. When you get to a village, the
Each of these ships makes the run, on the av- police officer will sometimes try to "take charge,"
erage, once a month. Two other ships, making jumping off the boat with his gun handy and bark-
coastal stops between Merauke and Sorong, also ing orders at the people who, out of curiosity,
call at Agats every few weeks. While conditions have come up to meet you. Do not let him do
218 PRACTICALITIES
Agats
/1>
Because of the daily tides, the
"streets" of Agats are raised
boardwalks, of variable
quality. (Always bring a
flashlight at night.) For the
sake of clarity, the many
private houses lining the
walkways are not shown .
this. It is your trip, you have paid for the boat, the beer chilled at a nearby fish cooler.)
and you do not want him bullying people and Dahlia. Just off the main walkway opposite the
spoiling it. Be very firm about this. helipad. Good chicken soup $1.10. Fried chicken
The police escort is just a fact, and not worth (about half of a tough bird), vegetables and
ruining your trip over. There may even be some rice $4. Fried manioc and fried bananas some-
circumstances where it comes in handy. Local times available.
officials in some vi llages have been running lit- Note: Neither restaurant has a sign outside, so
tle woodcarVing rackets, and the presence of follow the map and ask.
tourists threatens to push up prices or reveal
to the carvers just how much they are being ex-
ploited. These folks will often say things like CARVINGS AND SOUVENIRS
"tourists aren't allowed here." The presence of
Toko Anda. Near the old disused dock. Run by
your own private police officer will shut this
kind of thing right down . Pak Mansur, who bargains, wheels and deals,
but still keeps his prices low. A very mixed bag
of carvings, some quite nice, especially his
ACCOMMODATIONS shields. Ask to also see the items in the back
of his house.
Losmen Asmat Inn. Eleven rooms. Fairly clean, Kios Asmat. Next to the Pelni office. A much
I
but the rooms are seldom made up and no tow- more orderly place, with a large room full of av-
els are provided. Bathrooms are attached . Lots
erage quality commercial art.
of junky Asmat "art" for sale. Price includes
The Asmat Inn. The lobby here has lots of art,
breakfast, and meals can be ordered. $12 for the
ranging in quality from truly awful to barely ac-
better rooms; $8.50 for the more basic rooms.
ceptable.
Pada' Elo. Eight rooms. Pool table, excellent
breakfast (including noodles , vegetables, egg,
tea or coffee), but pretty crude out-of-room toi-
let/bath facilities. $8.50.
Buying carvings in the villages
You will probably see some carving being done
DINING at most villages you visit. Forget about finding
fine old Asmat pieces-too many dealers have
Buetkawer. Next to the dock. Simple meals, rice been through, offering top dollar. Stick to sou-
or noodles, vegetables, and if available, fish. Can venir class carvings, and remember you have
get beer cold for you at night with sufficient no- to lug things home, so length and weight mat-
tice at $1.60 per can. (They need an hourto get ter. Small sculptures are cheap, $3-$20 for most
ASMAT 219
items, and there is usually no reason to bargain. and cooked up our meals at no extra charge.
By buying in the village, you cut out the mid- You can also try at the Pada 'Elo, whose owner,
dlemen and more money goes into the carver's Pak Nurdin, seemed quite willing to bargain.
own pockets. Certain regions produce distinct Some travel times from Agats: Beriten, 1.5
items and styles. The Sawa-Erma area spe- hrs, Jamas-Jeni, 2 hrs; Ayam, 2 .5 hrs; Sawa-
cializes in stylized, scaled-down shields with geo- Erma, 3 hrs; Atsj, 3 .5 hrs; Omadesep , 5 hrs;
metric patterns, in hardwood . Astj produces Otsjanep, 6 hrs.
ajour, flat openwork carvings in hardwood, and A motorized boat is the only realistic way to
small and medium-sized figures in hardwood. Per go to the Brazza River area from Agats. Count
and Beriten make fairly well-finished figure sculp- on a week or so. One day to Jinak, second day
tures in softwood . to Senggo, third day to Tami. From here, you walk.
Some fairly decent full-scale shields are still Outside of the main towns, the people living in
being made in the Brazza area, but obtaining this area are shy of outSiders, and you may spend
these at the source requires an extensive trip. your whole trip without meeting anyone. Pick up
Boatloads occasionally arrive in Agats, and you an interpreter in Jinak or Senggo.
might be fortunate enough to be there when this From the end of November to some time in
takes place. With no middleman involved, you March, the season ofthe waves (musim ombak) ,
can pick one of these up for $20 . sea-going canoe trips can be very dangerous.
Some of the more interesting small items sold Sometimes you can reroute inland , but this
in the villages are cassowary bone knives, small can add time, depending on where it is that you
feathered bags, woven armbands, and necklaces plan to go .
of seeds. The only thing to be cautious of with Paddled canoes . An alternative to motorized
these is that customs officials in the United travel is to hire a smaller boat and five or so pad-
States and Europe tend to be very suspicious dlers at Sjuru village, a short gangplank walk from
of animal products in general and it might not Agats . This is much cheaper: $3 a day per pad-
be legal to bring them in. Especially if the item dler, $3 for the boat, which can fit 2 to 4 pas-
prominently displays feathers , you may have sengers. It is also more pleasant, with the
problems. Find out the relevant customs re- sounds of the jungle broken only by the songs
strictions before you buy. of the paddlers.
But you cannot travel as far as quickly this
way-it takes a full day to cover the distance.
MONEY EXCHANGE spanned by outboard canoe in a couple of
hours. To Ayam, it's a day, same for the Jamasj-
There is no bank in Agats. Change plenty of
Jeni area. About two days to Atsj or to Sawo-
money into Rupiah before you come. It is also
Erma. Depending on seas and tides, it could be
handy to have smaller denomination bills in
four days to Otsjanep.
the vill ages, when buying craft items.
For a good boatman who can get a team of
paddlers together, try to locate Demianus in Sju-
RIVER TRAVEL ruh village. On overnight trips, he will cook for
you as well.
Motorized dugouts. This is the key to travel in Tides. Whether by motor or paddle power you
the region. If you have relatively little time and have to go with the tides. Many villages are ac-
want to get around, the only way to do this is cessible only at high tide. At low tide, you have
hire a long dugout powered by a 40HP out- to make your way up deep mud banks to reach
board. This is expensive-about $125-$150 a the villages on the larger rivers, although felled
day, but since at least 10 people can fit in it, if logs are often strategically placed to save muddy
your group is large it is not too much on a per feet. Tides of over 5 meters are usual in June
person basis. and late December, and even the normal twice
The high dai ly costs are justified by the freight daily tides often exceed 4 meters. You have to
costs to Agats wh ich brings the cost of a 40HP go far upriver before the tide no longer affects
outboard in at around $3,000 (the boat itself the river height.
costs some $1,200), and actual cost of fuel runs Provisions. On any joumey, you can obtain sago
$14 per hour. Add to that the wage of the boat to eat in the vil lages, but we suggest buying all
driver, maintenance ofthe engine and boat, and your provisions in Agats before setting out. Bot-
the price seems far from outrageous. Worse still, tled water is very expensive in Agats (Rp1000
sometimes there is no fuel available so you can't for a small bottle , the only size avai lable) and
motor anywhere . you can either drop a lot of money for a case
There are two or three boats available for char- of the stuff, or buy fresh coconuts (very inex-
ter out of Agats, all costing about the same pensive) along the way. We did the latter, and
amount. We were quite satisfied with the ser- were neverthirsty. Take some Minyak Gosok cap
vices of Amhier Oedhien, who often meets in- Tawon , a locally sold insect repellant of cit-
com ing planes at Ewer and can be contacted ronella and eucalyptus extracts. Aside from its
through the Asmat Inn . He took good care of us, bug-repellant properties , the oily liquid (55¢ for
220 PRACTICALITIES
I
Sago Ambas
Sago grubs Tou
Sago pounder Amosus
Cassowary Pi
Cassowary bone Pi emak
Crocodile Eu
Snake Amer
Lizard Utsj
Turtle Mbu
Frog Woro
Cuscus Fatsj
Hornbill bird Fofojir
Merauke is the entry point to southern West Papua and is the easternmost town in In-
donesia. Founded by the Dutch in 1904 as a response to British concerns about the
regular head-hunting raids across the then Dutch and British border, remnants of early
settlement can still be seen in colonial buildings like the 1920s post office and the
charming old church at Buti. There is a busy local market, traditional wooden houses
and shelters by the coast, and a long, windswept beach for walking and birdwatching.
It is also the access point to Wasur National Park.
Prices are in US$. Telephone code is 0971. AC=Air-conditioning.
I
There are several hotels and losmens in Mer-
auke , a one-hour trip, on Tues , Wed, Fri, and
auke, of which three are popular with visitors.
Sun, departing at 8 am. The return flight from Hotel Asmat JI. Trikora 3 . '5" 21065. $8-$11
Merauke to Jayapura leaves at 10 am . fan , shared bath; $9- $13 fan , private bath;
At present, the only access to Agats and Asmat $10-$14 AC, private bath.
country is by plane to Senggo, then a 6 hour Megaria Hotel JI. Raya Mandala 166. '5" 21932.
motorboat ride downriver. $30, AC, Western bathroom, hot water; $20, no
A more expensive option is to charter a hot water. Breakfast is included , other meals .'.
plane from Jayapura to Senggo direct. Pak can be ordered; reception stocks cold beer.
Ronnie and Ibu Atta at Merpati are both very Nirmala Hotel JI. Raya Mandala 66. '5" 21849.
helpful here . Has an enormous restaurant serving good food,
222 PRACTICALITIES
but no atmosphere. $10, fan, shared bath; tidal flats , wide floodplain, dense rainforest,
$15 AC, no hot water; $27, AC, TV, hot water, open woodland, and savannah grassland . This
including breakfast and afternoon snack. provides a range of habitats for plants (like
gum trees) and animals (like agile wallabies and
kookaburras) which share characteristics with
DINING those of northern Australia. But much of the
Most of the restaurants are Javanese or Chinese- wildlife is only found on the New Guinea land-
mass. The variety of birding is exceptional.
run. You won't generally find the West Papuan
The Bian River Region . Further north, 200 km
staples of sago and sweet potatoes on the
along the Trans-West Papuan Highway and be-
menu. Venison is a specialty of southern West
yond the township of Muting, the Bian River pro-
Papua, from rusa deer on the grasslands to the
vides the major link to the outside world for re-
north, and you'll find tasty, but dry, spicy chunks
mote villages. It is surrounded by lakes and flood-
of venison at most Padang restaurants. Sweet
plains which become refuges for wildlife,
dried deer meat (dendeng manis) from the mar-
particularly birds, in the later part ofthe dry sea-
ket is delicious fried as a snack.
son. Herds of deer and mobs of wallabies are
Sari Laut, opposite and slightly left of the
often seen around dawn and dusk. Pockets of
Megaria Hotel, is the best food value in town. forest protected by local people are home to birds
Pick-your-own BBQ fish, with rice, a bowl of co- of paradise and enormous camps of flying foxes .
conutty vegetables, and a side-dish of cucum- Culture. The Wasur National Park is home to four
ber tomato and pickle for just over $1 . distinct tribal groups: the Marind, the Marori, the
Toko Rosario, next to the Nirmala, does good Kanum, and the Yei. All four are traditionally
Chinese noodle dishes at lunchtime. Merapi hunter-gatherers, who hunt with bows and arrows
.)aya, across the road form the Nirmala Hotel, and dogs. They are also subsistence farmers
does good Padang food at lunchtime. Cafe of sago and sweet potatoes .
Mandala, next door, has excellent Chinese Little carving is done in this area, but the
food. One dining room is AC. grasses of the swamplands provide material for
There are plenty of warungs and night food- woven bags, baskets, fishnets, and mats. Bows
stalls lining the road opposite the cinema. and arrows often have identifying tribal motifs
cut into them . Drums of wood and deer skin are
MONEY used in ceremonies , as are elaborate grass
skirts and headdresses. Western visitors are still
Bank Mandiri, at the river end of JI. Raya Man- a rarity here in the villages, and are made un-
dala, changes US$ travelers' checks. failinglywelcome. Local languages are still spo-
ken, but everyone also speaks Indonesian.
Management. The WWF is working with the In-
SHOPPING donesian Department of Forestry and the Director
General of Forest Protection and Nature Con-
Most things are available in Merauke, but are
servation to develop a workable management
expensive compared with other areas of In-
plan for the Park which will allow native tribes
donesia, given freight and transport costs .
to continue their traditional practices while pro-
There are several Chinese-run shops selling al-
tecting unique Wasur habitats .
most everything, of which the best are Toko
Fees & Permits. You can enter the Park through
Saudara and Toko Metro, both on the main the villages of Wasur or Ndalir where there are
street, JI. Raya Mandala . National Park Offices. Report in and pay the
-updated by Virginia Jealous Rp1,000/person entrance fee and an addi-
tonal Rp1,000 for a 4-wheel drive vehicle. To
date, there is no fee for camping, but "devel-
I
is its northern boundary, the Arafura Sea its is on the beach near the vilage of Onggaya and
southern edge and it extends from the Ndalir there is one more in the planning stages on the
River near Merauke in the west to the Papua New Maro River, near Soa and Tambak. The con-
Guinea border on the east. It includes the Rawa struction of these guest houses was funded by
Biru (Blue Swamp) Strict Nature Reserve . WWF, but are owned and managed by the peo-
The landscape is unique in Indonesia-an ple of those villages , who collect all the profits .
expansive alluvial plain of wild rivers leading to Access within the Park. From the western
MERAUKE 223
boundary of the Park, the Trans-West Papuan abutting savannah. In the dry season , take a walk
Highway stretches eastward to the village of Soto, across the savannah to see all sorts of wildlife
then continues to the Park's northern border and drinking from a solitary pool of water. And, for
is the only all-weather road in the Park. However, a closer look at nature, you can rent horses and
in the dry season (July-December), a Jeep can a guide in some vilages, thanks to another
traverse village roads from Merauke to Kondo WWF project designed to improve the economic
along the Park's south-western boundary, as well conditions ofthe native peoples. Trails are not
as from the Trans-West Papuan Highway to yet clearly marked. The track to Tomer is fairly
Rawa Biru and Yanggandurvillages. Also, in the obvious, but if you want to go further, hire a local
dry season, there are othertracks which a Jeep guide, who will be useful not only in making sure
can negotiate, but be forewarned - these dirt you don 't get lost, but also in spotting wildlife
roads are kidney-busters! and explaining local customs. Hire a canoe at
In the rainy season (January-June), Ndalir and Yerus, near the Rawa Biru, to see the lake flora
Wasur villages are easy to visit, as the roads and fauna, and the Kanum people tending the ir
leading to them are good and you can engage traditional gardens around its perimeter, or
native canoes to get to most other areas of the stop and chat with the hunters you encounter
Park. The WWF reports "unparalleled wildl ife along the way. Swimming is good in old sand
viewing and fishing" in Wasur at this time. quarry pits near the Trans-West Papuan High-
What to See. With less than 60 visitors to the way. These pits seldom dry out.
Park recorded in 1992, you can rest assured that - by Linda Hoffman/Virginia Jealous
you will not be surounded by tourists, allowing
you ample opportunity to experience an envi-
ronment that is total ly unlike anything you will
see elsewhere in Indonesia.
The landscape in the park and its habitats are
unique in West Papua, resembling that of north-
ern Australia, a flat expanse of wetland and
coastal plain containing bamboo and monsoon
forests, grasslands, swamps and open savan-
nah in the Park's interior, while riverine vegetation
and mangroves protect coastlines.
The wetlands of Wasur are an important
habitat for migratory birds from Austalia and New
Zealand: storks, sea eagles, ibis, spoonbills,
ducks, geese, pelicans , herons, egrets, and
other water birds. The monsoon forests host
birds of paradise, riflebirds, cockatoos , Eclec- .... I '
tus parrots, crowned pigeons , and the iII-tem- JAGEBOB XXVc/ J . . .poo I
pered cassowary, while the swampy lowlands (IRIAN SAKTI) .....
~ ~
ir ,\~i
(M IMI) ' .....{,I c •
als, the most abundant being the agile wallaby
(Macropus agilis) , but also common are forest KUM BE·KURIK.8
wallabies (Doropsis veterum and Thylogale stig-
matica). The ratlike bandicoot and the tree- =; 1
I'
dwelling cuscus , both marsupials, the short-
:1
beaked echidna, a monotreme (egg-laying mam-
mal), are also residents ofWasur. The wallabies .11
1 ~
.
and deer are easy to spot during the day in cer- l os
I'",
tain areas ofthe park. Most ofthe marsupials , 'I ~
l ID
I z
however, are nocturnal. Take along a good flash- Yangga ndu r : I~
light for any nighttime expeditions . I~
In the reptile department, of interest are en-
Rawa Biru.
demic Salvador's monitor lizards, pythons, and
two species of crocodilians. Freshwater New ',. Onggaya
Guinea crocodiles (Crocodylus novaeguineae) are
A "\,,.
1
still present, but are endangered due to hunt- Tomer
ing, and the estuarine crocodile (Crocodylus
prorsus), a saltwater variety, may have already
SCALE Of r"
...... ! omerau
disappeared .
10 20 30 ',
Further Reading
Allen, Benedict. Into the Crocodile Nest: A Jour- Associates, 1990. An excellent, contemporary
ney Inside New Guinea. London: Grafton Books, account of New Guinea's unique mammalian
Paladin, 1989. This modern day adventurer fauna. Color photographs of each species, with
flies into the Irian highlands, treks through Yali complete information on range, habits, etc.
and Kim Yal country, and heads to the land of Gardner, Robert and Karl G. Heider. Gardens
the unacculturated Obini. He gets cold feet and of War: Life and Death in the New Guinea Stone
bugs out, and with not enough information left Age. Introduction by Margaret Mead. New York:
to finish his book. A fairly thin account. Random House, 1968. An excel lent book of pho-
Archbold, Richard . "Results of the Archbold tographs taken during the Harvard-Peabody ex-
Expedition, " Bulletin of the American Museum pedition of 1961 to the Kure lu Dani, in the
of Natural History. Vol. 88, Article 3. Descrip- eastern part ofthe Baliem Valley. (Out of print.)
tion of Archbold's expedition to the highlands Garnaut, Ross and Chris Manning. Irian Jaya:
around Lake Habbema. The Transformation of a Melanesian Economy.
..... Asmat Sketch Books. Book 1-2, Book 3-4 , Canberra: Austral ian National Univ. Press, 1974.
Book 5A, Book 5B, Book 6, Book 7, and Book Gerbrands, Adrian A. The Asmat of New
8. Hastings, Nebraska: The Asmat Museum of Guinea. The Joumal of Michael Clark Rockefeller.
Culture and Progress, copyrights 1977-1984. The Museum of Primitive Art: New York, 1967.
These paperback volumes, assembled by the Based on the late Michael Rockefel ler's note-
Crosier mission in Agats, contain descriptions books and photographs. Particularly valuab le be-
of Asmat cultural life, vocabularies, outlines of cause it shows some of the excel lent art pieces
historical events in the region, Asmat mytholo- collected in the ir original sites. (Out of print.)
gies, descriptions of everyday events like sago Heider, Karl. The Dugum Dani. New York,
gathering, and much more. Written by the mis- 1970. The most complete ethnography of the
sionaries, visiting ethnographers and others Dani, by the anthropologist who accompanied
doing research in the Asmat lands. These are the Harvard-Peabody expedition.
extremely vpluable primary sources for anyone - - -. Grand Valley Dani, Peaceful War-
interested in the region. They are not ful l of self- riors . New York, 1979.
interested religious propaganda, but rather are Henderson, William. West New Guinea: the
straightforward, honest and unflinching. Avail- Dispute and its Settlement. Seton Hall Univer-
able by mail from: Crosier Province, Inc., 3204 sity Press, 1987.
East 43d Street, Minneapolis, MN 55406. Tel: Hvalkof, Soren and Aaby, Peter (eds). Is God
(612) 722-2223. Each volume costs $15; 40% an American? Survival International (36 Craven
discount on orders of five or more. St, London WC 2N/5NG), London. n.d.
Baal, J. van. West Irian: a Bibliography. Dor- Kamma, F. C. Koreri. The Hague, 1972. On
drecht, Netherlands, 1984. the Koreri movement, a "cargo cult" in Biak.
Bellwood, Peter. Pre-History of the Indo- Koch, K. F. War and Peace in Jalemo. Cam-
Malaysian Archipelago. New York, 1985. bridge, 1974. A Yali ethnography.
Bromley, Myron. "Ethnic Groups in Irian Jaya." Lawrence, Peter. Road Belong Cargo. Mel-
Bulletin for Irian Jaya Development. 2-3:1-37, bourne: University of Melbourne Press, 1964.
1973. "Cargo cults" in Melanesia.
Brongersma, L. D. The Animal World of Nether- Matthiessen, Peter. Under the Mountain Wall:
lands New Guinea. Gronengen: J.B. Wolters, A Chronicle of Two Seasons in Stone Age New
1958. 70 pp. Guinea. New York: Penguin Books, 1987. (First
Budiardjo, Carmel and Liem Soei Liong. West published 1962). Matthiessen is among the very
Papua: The Obliteration of a People. Surrey, U.K.: finest writers- both fiction and non-fiction-
TAPOL, 1988. A very critical look at the transfer working today in the English language. This
of Irian to Indonesia and the reaction it spawned. book is the story of the Kurelu Dani told by a
D'Albertis, Luigi M. New Guinea: What I Did novelist. It is richly descriptive, but has none of
and What I Saw. 2 volumes. London: Sampson the invasive and crushing language ofthe ethno-
Low, 1880. Worth trying to find , as naturalist D'AI- grapher. Th is is in fact not a book about the Dani;
bertis was a colorful figure and a keen observer. it is a book about Kurelu, U-mue, Ekapuwe,
Flannery, Timothy. The Mammals of New Wereklowe, and many others, including, most
Guinea. Queensland, Australia: Robert Brown and importantly, Tukum the swineherd .
FURTHER READING 225
Mealey, George A. Grasberg: Mining the Rich- Available from the Asmat museum (in Agats) or:
est and Most Remote Deposit of Copper and Crosier Province, Inc., 3204 East 43d Street,
Gold in the World in the Mountains of Irian Minneapolis, MN 55406. Tel: (612) 722-2223.
Jaya, Indonesia. Singapore:Freeport-McMoRan - - -. Where the Spirits Dwell, An Odyssey
Copper & Gold Inc., 1996. Discusses the busi- in the New Guinea Jungle. New York: Grove
ness of mining, as well as the environmental and Press, 1988. A well-written and rather personal
social impact of the company's presence. account of the author's experiences in the
Mitton, Robert. The Lost World of Irian Jaya. Asmat region. In addition to cultural and historical
Melbourne: Oxford University Press, 1983. Mit- information, this book describes the author's per-
ton was an exploration geologist and cartogra- sonal quest for self-knowlege.
pher who worked in Irian, particularly the high- The Sky Above, the Mud Below. A film directed
lands , for six years in the early and mid-'70s. by Tony Saulnier. An early 1960s documentary
He had a great knowledge of Irian , and an even account of an expedition across Irian, from
greater love for the Irianese and their land. near Pirimapun in the south to Hollandia. Mud,
This is a book of photos and observations as- flies, washed out bridges and all. Some good
sembled posthumously from his notebooks. footage of Asmat and Kim Yal . Now fairly widely
This is an excellent book, and required reading available in the U.S. on video .
for anyone who is going to spend time in the high- Smidt, Dirk A.M. (ed) Asmat Art: Woodcarv-
lands . (Out of print.) ings of Southwest New Guinea. Singapore:
Mordaunt, Elinor. The Further Venture Book. Peri plus Editions. 1993. Handsome catalog of
London: John Lane the Bodley Head Limited, the collection of early shields and sculptures at
1926. On a trip that criss-crossed the Dutch In- the Rijksmuseum voor Volkenkunde and the
dies, Ms. Mordaunt stopped at Waigeo, Sorong, National Museum of Ethnology in Leiden . Ex-
Manokwari, Biak, Sarmi, Humbolt Bay (now ce llent articles on the spiritual world of the
Jayapura) and the tiny Mapia Islands. It is a stan- Asmat, a history ofthe region, styles of carving,
dard traveler's tale of the time-that is , it says the woodworkers, and the jipae festival.
more about its British author than the people Souter, Gavin . New Guinea, the Last Un-
of New Guinea-and is competently written . known. New York: Taplinger, 1966. An excellent
Petocz, Ronald G. Conservation and Develop- history of exploration and European involve-
ment in Irian Jaya. Leiden: E.J. Brill,1989 . This ment in New Guinea. Thoroughly researched and
is a very valuable resource book developed for elegantly written. (Out of print.)
people in the field of conservation. It includes Start, Daniel. The Open Cage. London: Har-
brief descriptions of the ecological zones and court Brace, 1997. Riveting account of five
animal life of Irian, and an elaborate description months in "open captivity" of British, Indonesian
ofthe World Wildlife Fund-prompted program of and Dutch biologists who were held hostage by
nature reserves in Irian. Some ofthe appendices the OPM in January through May, 1996.
alone are worth the price: a complete list, with Velde, Van de Peter, ed . Prehistoric Indone-
runway length and coordinates, of all airstrips sia. Dordrecht, Netherlands, 1984.
in the province; checklists of birds and other pro- Wallace, Alfred Russel. The Malay Archipel-
tected and rare species. ago. Singapore: Graham Brash (Pte) Ltd, 1989.
Pospisil, Leopold. The Kapauku Papuans. This is the famous account by the father of bio-
New York, 1978. Although some consider his geography, proto-evolutionist, animal collector,
"primitive capitalists" assessement overdrawn, and adventurer Wallace. This book covers the
this is the standard ethnography on the Ekagi 8 years he spent in the East Indies in the mid-
(then called "Kapauku"). 19th century. He spent only a few months in New
Richardson, Don. Lords of the Earth. Ventura, Guinea, but this book is a must for anyone in-
Califomia, 1977. Protestant missionaries among terested in the natural history of the region.
the Yali. Epic, Good vs. Evil language and heav- Wilson, Forbes . The Conquest of Copper
ily religious in tone. Mountain. New York, 1981. About the Freeport
- - - . Peace Child. Glendale, California, copper mine.
1974. Similar in style to Lords of the Earth, this Worsley, Peter. The Trumpet Shall Sound: A Study
time set among the Asmat. of "Cargo" Cults in Melanesia. 2d edition. New York:
Schneebaum, Tobias. Asmat Images, From Schocken Books, 1968. One ofthe basic texts on
the Collection of the Asmat Museum of Culture "cargo cults," movements that sprang up in
and Progress. Asmat Museum of Culture and Melanesia as a reaction to the sudden presence
Progress, 1985. This black-and-white book, il- of westerners, their goods and technologies.
lustrated with line drawings by the author, is both Zegwaard, Father Gerardus Anthonius. "Head-
a catalog ofthe Asmat Museum's collection and hunting Practices of the Asmat of the Nether-
a very good, compact introduction to Asmat art lands New Guinea." American Anthropologist,
and culture. Schneebaum has spent consider- Vol. 61, No.6, Dec. 1959, pp. 1020-1041. The
able time in the region and is perhaps the most original description of Asmat head-hunting prac-
knowlegeable contemporary writer on the Asmat, tices, by the pioneer missionary in the region .
particularly Asmat art. In English and Indonesian . His observations still remain the standard text.
226 PRACTICALITI ES
Glossary
adat tradition; customs ikat woven cloth from Flores, Timor; used in bride
alus refined, smooth; polar opposite of kasar price in the Anggi lake area
AMA (Associated Mission Aviation) Roman Irian (Biak) lit. "land of the hot weather", origi-
Catholic support airline nally referred to the northwest coast of New
amos (Asmat) sago palm Guinea nearest to Biak
apotik pharmacy
jam karet "rubber time "
bahasa language jamasj (Asmat) war shields, some 2 m long
bahasa Indonesia Indonesian language; na- jeu (Asmat) long raised men's huts; cultural cen-
tional language of Indonesia ter of the village; pron. "ja-yu"
batik process of "lost-wax" dye technique for jipae (Asmat) shaggy cloaks of rattan; used in
printing cloth; done primarily in Java initiation rites and to drive spirits away from the
bemo mini-bus; public transport, some can be village
chartered for private use
....beras hulled, uncooked rice kabupaten regency, headed by the bupati; sec-
Big Men (Ekari) non-hereditary chiefs, power ond level administrative unit under the province
based on balance of wealth accumulation and kain (Dani) Big Men; charismatic individuals
generosity who rose to power through strength and success
bisj (Asmat) totem poles carved by Asmat, lat- in war, wealth accumulated, generosity
tice of small clambering figures kain timur antique cloths from eastern In-
Bisjmam (Asmat) villages of central Asmat donesia used in complex ritual trade in Bird's
coast where bisj are carved Head interior
bulan month kampung neighborhood
kasar rough, uncouth; polar opposite to a/us
CAMA Christian and Miss ionary Alliance kebaya women's long-s leeved blouse; often
camat hea~ government official of the district made of brocade or light voile
kecamatan district, headed by the camat
desa vill age kelapa muda young coconut
desa adat "traditional village"; lowest admin- kepala desa village head
istrative level of the state keris daggers, some considered magical ly pow-
diskon discount erful; may have either straight or wavy blade; part
of formal male attire; worn in the back, handle
em (Asmat) drum , hourglass-shape, drumhead tipped to the right
of li zard skin ketan glutinous ("sticky") rice
korwar (Biak) ancestral sculptures
fan nanggi (Biak) lit. "feeding the sky"; ritual per- koteka (Ekari) penis gourd
formed with offerings which ancestral spirits car- KSDA (Kehutanan Sumber Daya Alam) Natural
ried up to heaven Resources office of the Department of Forestry
gaba-gaba central spine of the sago palm leaf lela antique bronze cannon, usually of Por-
ganekhe (Dani) sacred objects used to prevent tuguese origin; used in bride price in Fakfak area
approach of spirits
MAF (Missionary Aviation Fellowship) Protes-
harga pas fixed price tant support airline
hepere (Dan i) sweet potato; 90% of the Dani diet; mansaren noble caste on Biak
more than 70 varieties massoi variety oftree bark; used for medicinal
honai (Dani) traditional house built of straw purposes; highly prized trade item
and wood matutuo figures which were part-human and
hongi (Biak) annual tribute-gathering expedi- part-animal, common in rock paintings; repre-
tion from Sultan of Tidore to the north coast of sent ancestors
Irian; more often pillage, rape, abduction
horim (Dani) penis gourd nanggi (Biak) central power of the universe
nasi cooked rice
GLOSSARY 227
nasi campur rice with varied condiments
nasi goreng fried rice ABOUT THE CONTRIBUTORS
NGO non-government organization; promotes Dave Cox was a lecturer with the English De-
community self-rel iance activities partment ofthe Cenderawasih University when
noken (Dani) net-like string bags women use to he worked and lived in Jayapura for 2 years as
carry things, supported by the forehead; knit from a Canadian volunteer.
bark fibers
Jenny Foster-Smith has an MA in Economics and
orang pupawah (Malay) "frizzy-haired man" is a partner and managing director of a small
OPM (Organisasi Papua Merdeka) "Free Papua economic and marketing advisory company.
Movement" Since 1995, she has been serving as a British
papisj (Asmat) ritual orgy of sexual activity or oc- Voluntary Service Overseas volunteer working
in Manokwari as a business adviser to the
casional temporary wife exchange; conducted
YBLBC Butterfly Farming Agency.
during time of great crisis
parang machete
Rainer Haarring lived in Jakarta for 5 years and
pariwisata tourism
then in West Papua for 6 years where he assisted
pasar daily market for food , clotiling, flowers,
the West Papua Joint Development Foundation
utenSils, etc .; bargaining is the way of life in Jayapura as an integrated expert in produc-
pasar malam night market
ing, processing and marketing agricultural prod-
pondok shelter used by hunters and pandanus ucts. He introduced modern farming techniques
gatherers in the highlands; vary from bark/wood to self-help farmers' groups in the interior high-
lean-to's to comfortable huts lands. Currently, he guides trekking tours through
prahu large boats, may be motorized West Papua, Java , Bali, and Lombok.
puskesmas (pusat kesehatan masyarakat)
community health center Linda Hoffman moved to Indonesia in 1990, and
she has been traveling throughout the archi-
raja king, ruler; leadership system in the Raja pelago and writing about it ever since. She is
Empat Islands, Sorong, Fakfak, and Kaimana the author and editor of Kebun Binatang Ra-
rijstaffel "rice table," full meal of rice with var- gunan, a photographic essay supporting Jakar-
ious side dishes ta's Ragunan Zoo and focusing on Indonesia's
rujak raw fruits mixed with sauce of shrimp endangered wildlife. She has also written nu-
paste, chillies and sometimes palm sugar merous articles for magazines and newspa-
rumah sa kit hospital pers celebrating Indonesia's people, cultures,
handicrafts, wildlife, and nature .
sago gummy starch from the pith of a tall palm
tree (Metroxylon rumphil) Virginia Jealous is a consultant in tourism plan-
sambal hot chilli sauce ning and training. She has travelled and birded
sawah irrigated rice field extensively in Indonesia, and served as an Aus-
suratjalanjsurat keteranganjalan (SKJ) travel tralian Volunteer Abroad (1994-1996) working
permit; needed to travel to all places within Irian, on sustainable tourism projects with the Marind
except Jayapura, Biak, and Sorong People in southern West Papua .
Index
A page number in bold type: an ar- Asmat 17, 30- 31, 32, 38 , 43 , Bechtel 55
ticle on the subject. 113,145-165 Bene River 130
One in italics: an illustration. Art Project 149 Berau (MacCluer) Gulf 87,
art 152-155 95-86,98-99
Abepura 63, 82 , 196 carvers 151, 152, 155, 162 Beriten (Asmat) 160
Abreu , Antonio d' 36 carvings 146, 152-155, 160, Betsj River 145, 146, 163, 165
Adoki (Biak) 68 , 71 161, 163 Biak 17,19,30,31,36,45,
Agats 30, 145, 146, 151, 154, Center (Pusat Asmat) 160 59,63,64-73
158,158-161,162,163, ceremonies 145, 145, 149, dancers 67
165 164 maps 69 , 194-195
map 220 drums (em) 154-155, 162 practicalities 192-195
name 159 dugout 161, 165 Big Men 31, 34, 113, 114, 126
practicalities 217-220 festival 154, 161, 162 Bintuni Bay 18, 19, 21 , 88
agriculture 17, 28-29 , 32 , 43, feasts 149 Bird's Head Peninsula 18, 19,
64, 108, 115 Foundation 160 31,36, 87-99
Ajam 147 hunter 23 practicalities 200-204
Akima (Baliem) 124, 125-126 map 183-184 birds 22, 68, 77
.... mummy 136 Museum 145, 155, 160 birds of paradise 22 , 23 , 23,
Albertis , Luigi Maria d' 36, 37, name derivation 147 31,38 , 39,68 , 77,94,
40,88 practicalities 217-220 96 , 225
AMA 187, 206 shields 152-154, 154 brush turkey 22
Amamapare (Timika) 55 , 56 village 148 bowerbirds 22
Ambai (Yapen) 77 vocabulary 220 cassowary 21,22,68,86,225
Amborep (Asmat) 163 Aswetsj River 158, 161 hornbill 68
amos 147,161 Atsj (Asmat) 147, 154, 158, lories 68, 159
Amung 32 163-164 riflebirds 22 , 223
ancestors 25 , 31, 65, 97, 113, Atuka (Asmat) 150 Victoria crown pigeon 14- 15,
137, 152, 154 Australians 48, 151 22,219
Andei (Numfor) 75 Austronesians 28 , 31 birding 77 , 81,94,183 , 193,
Anggi Lakes 87.90-91, 91, Ayam (Asmat) 151, 159 212
202 I Ayamaru Lake 87 bisj (Asmat) 145, 149, 153, 154
Angguruk 33 , 209 Babililok (Baliem) 135 festival 161
animism 65, 148 Baliem Highlands 103-141 Bisjimam villages 149, 154, 160
anteaters 24 Go~e 48,103,128-129, 138 Bitsyari Bay 95 , 97
Ao (Asmat) 154 map 104-105 Biwar Laut men 32, 148, 149
Apayo Island (Jayapura) 83 practicalities 205-211 Biwar Laut (Asmat) 163,
Arafura Sea 22 , 103 River 103, 141 164-165
Archbold Richard 43 , 106-108, Valley 17,18,28,30, 43, Bogo River 141
110 48,109,124-129 Bokondini 48, 140-141
Expedition 43, 106-109, 116 Baruki (Numfor) 75 Bomberai Peninsula 87,95-97,
Arfak 59,88 Base G beach (Jayapura) 98
butterflies 25, 90-91 60- 61,81 map 97
Mountains 19, 25 , 88, 89, Batanta Island 19, 93, 94, 203 Borobudur 26
90,183,202 Bawei (Numfor) 74 Borokoe 67
Asaibori (Numfor) 75 Beccari, Odoardo 40, 88 Bosnik (Biak) 66, 67 , 68
Map Index
Agats town 218 Geology 20 Merpati routes 186-187
Asmat region 156-157 Highlands 104-105 Pelni routes 188-189
Baliem Valley 126-127 Indonesia 166 Sorong town 93
Biak Island Group 69 Jayapura area 80 Timika area 212
Biak town 194-195 Jayapura town 197 Wamena town 206
Bomberai Peninsula 97 Language groups 27 Wasur National Park 223
Freeport Mine Road 212 Manokwari town 200 West Papua 2-3
INDEX 229
Bougainville, Compte de , 38 Dagum River 130 fishlng industry 24, 64 , 93 ,
Bras (Asmat) 152 Da le, Stan ley 34, 50 159
Brazza River 152 Damal people 32 Flamingo Bay 145, 150, 158,
Breton, Ande 65 Dampier, William 38 165
bride price dance, traditional 91 flora and fauna 21-25
Biak 64,66 Asmat 164 Fly River 36, 37, 39, 40
Dani 103, 112 Sougb 91 flying foxes 24, 90
Fakfak 96 Dani 16,17,30,31,32,43, food 28-29 , 115,119, 147,
Sougb 91 48,50,103,107-108, 177-178
British 41-42 110-117, 124, 135, 146 Forrest, Thomas 38
East India Company 38, 39 compound 112, Fort Coronation 38
Ornithologists' Union 41 115-116, 124, 126 Fort du Bus 39
Bromly, Myron 111 farming 108,117 Frans Kaisiepo Airport 67
Brongersma Expedition 33 funerals 114-115, 115 Freeport 51-56, 160
Bruijn, Dr. Jean Victor de 118 Kurelu Dani 112-113 frog 24
Bruyn, Feuilletau de 66 language 111 gaba-gaba (Biak) 72
Budiarjo, Ali 54 missionaries 111-112 Gajdusek , Carletaon 152
Bugis 31, 38, 52, 145, 159, people 16, 47,103,106, Gaissau , Pierre Dominique 43
160, 163 110,111,113,139 ganekhe (Dan i) 114
butterflies 96 re ligion 48-49, 110-112, 114 Gardens of War 113, 224
birdwing 25, 90-91, 202 warfare 110, 113-114 Gardner, Robert 112, 113
cacao 88 warrior 127 gardens 43, 72, 115
cannibalism 17,32,34,50, Dayaks 41, 43, 107 Garuda Airlines 56, 186
54,146,149 Dead Birds (film) 113, 146 Geissler, Johann 46, 88, 90
canoes 74, 154, 161, 165, Decker, Kenneth 111 geography 18-19
165,219 Depapre (Jayapura) 81 geo logy map 20
see also dugout Digul River 32, 37 , 41, 43 Gerbrands, Adrian A. 146
Cape Abba 98 diving 70, 76 , 81 , 182, 199 Gereja Koawi 89
Cape Barari (B iak) 69 Dongson bronzes 29 , 99 Germans 39, 80
cargo cu lt 47,56 Doodslager River 39 Goa Binsari (Biak) 70-71 , 70
Carstensz, Jan 38 Doom Island 92, 94, 99, 203 go ld 36-37,51
Carstensz Top see Puncak Jaya Dore Bay 22,38,40,80,87,88 Goras (Bird's Head) 96, 98
carvings Doreri 88 Grija lva, Hernando de 37
Asmat 152-155, 218-219 Dozy, Jean Jacques 42, 51, 53 Grimes , Major Myron J. 110
Biak 68, 69, 193 dugout 95-96, 96, 113, 215 Guba (Archbold's plane) 43,
Casuarin a Coast 19, 150 see also canoe 106-108, 107
Cathedral of the Sacred Heart Dugum Dani, The 113-114, 226 gunung see mountain
152 Dukum (Baliem) 112 Gunung Meja Park 89
Catholic mission 34, 35, Dutch 30,35,38,39,41-43, Gurabesi 66
46-50, 145, 149, 151, 46,48,57-59,80-81, Habifluri River 107
154, 158, 159-160 106-108, 150-151 Hamadi (Jayapura) 81
air service (AM A) 187, 206 echidna 21, 24, 223 Harer, Heinrich 42, 116
Crosier order 155, 159, 160 Eilanden River 41 Hartog, Dr. de 42
Cator, Dr. J. W. 118 Eipomek see Mek Harvard-Peabody Expedition
caves 63, 64, 70-71, 75 , 94, Eipomek (H igh lands) 32 112-113, 146
97,128 Ekari 30, 32, 34-35 , 42, 46 , Hastings, Margaret 111
Cenderawasih Bay 19, 21, 30, 47, 118 Hatta, Mohammed 57
37,38,63,66,96,202 religion 34 Hayes, Capt John 38, 87
Cenderawas ih Bay National Ma· Elegaima (Highlands) 140 head-hunting 17, 30, 31, 66,
rine Park 182, 183, 202 Eluard , Paul 65 146, 148, 149, 154
Cenderawasih University em (Asmat) 154-155 health 173-177
Museum 63, 82 Enarotali 35, 46, 47, 59, 118 Heider, Carl G. 112-114
Chinese 29, 31, 38, 63, 81, Engros (Jayapura) 81 , 199 Herderschee, Franssen 42
159, 160 Erikson , Walter, 88 Hetegima 48, 111, 129
Christian and Missionary Ertsberg 51, 53-54 Highlands 103-141
Alli ance (CAMA) 47,48, see also mountains, Bijih map 104-105
111, 129 ethnic diversity 30-35 practicalities 205-211
Citak 152, 158 Etna, Dutch warship 84 hiking see trekking
Colijn, Dr. A.H. 42 Europeans 36-39 Hill , Alex 41
Cook's Bay 150 Evangelical Mission Alliance, Hmanggona 32
Cook, Capt. James 17, 38, 150 The (TEAM) 151 Hollandia 43, 44, 45 , 63 ,
copper mine see Freeport Ewta River 154, 165, 165 80-81,106
coral reef 24, 74, 90, 93, 96 exploration 40-43 Holtekang Bay 81
Cortez, Hernan 36 Fakfak 31, 39, 87, 95, 96 honai (Dani) 82, 108, 112,
cowrie shel ls 33, 108, 116, 120 practica liti es 203-204 116, 133, 140
crocodi le 24, 83 fan nanggi (B iak) 65 hongi (Biak) 39, 66
farm 68 farming 21, 28, 33 horim (Dani) 17,33, 103,
Cutts, Bill and Grace 118 fetish burning 112 115-116
Cutts, John 50, 118-121, 119 fire·walking 64, 68 , 71, 71 house , traditional
Daelah (Baliem) 130, 131 fish 24 Asmat 148-149
230 INDEX
Dani 108, 116, 126, 133, 140 Kimaam Island 19 Manga painting style 98-99
Sougb 91 Kimbim, High lands 129, 141 Manggari (Numfor) 74, 75
Humboldt Bay 45 , 80 Kimyal 32, 34 mangroves 21, 55, 88, 146.
Hurley, Frank 41 Koch, Klaus Friedrich 33 218-219
Ibe le Atas (High lands) 130 Kokas 96 , 98 Manokwari (Bird's Head) 19,
Ibele Va lley 108 practicalities 204 25 , 31, 38,39,66,67,
ikat 91 Kokonau (Asmat) 150-151 74,80,87,88-91,
Ilaga (Highlands) 47,209 Kolff, Lt. D. H. 39, 150 map 200
Iluerainma salt spring 128 Kombai 32 practicalities 200-202
IMEX, Dutch company 151 Kanda River 136 mansaren (Biak) 66
Indonesianization 48,59,117, Korem (Biak) 72-73 Mans inam Island 88, 89-90,
154 Korido (Supiori) 73 202
initiation ritua ls 154 Korowai 32 Mansurbabo (Padaido Is lands)
insects 25 Korupun 32 70
Insubab i Island 73 karwar (B iak) 65 Manyembow (B ird's Head) 90
Irian name 56, 59, 65 kosarek 211 Mappi River 41
Irish potato 32, 115 Kota Baru 80 Marind-Anim 29 , 39, 216
Jamaludin, Sultan 66 koteka 33, 59, 117 Markus, Chief Ari 164
Jamas-Jen i vill age (As mat) 154 Kremer, J.H.G . 110 marsupials 21, 22, 24, 223
jamasj (Asmat) 149, 152-153 Kremer expedition 106 bandicoots 24, 223
Jamasj (Asmat) 151 Kruijt, Gerrit 33 cuscus 24, 130, 223
Jansz, Wil lem , 37 Kugapa (High lands) 46, 118 possums 24
Japanese 35,44- 45,57 , Kurima 128- 129 tree kangaroo 24, 96
66-67 , 80,88,151,159 Kuzume, Col. Naoyuki 67 wal laby 19, 24, 225
caves 63,64,70-71 , 70, 75 , Lait, George 111 Marun i (Bird 's Head) 90
94 Lake Archbold 107- 108, 108 massoi 38, 39, 76
memorial 75 , 89 , 93-94, 94 Lake Habbema 107-108, 129, Masters, Phil 34, 50
museum 70 130-135, 134 Maton Island 94
Jaqai 30 Lake Kabori 90 Matthiessen, Peter 110,
Javanese 26 , 38, 52, 63 , 64 , Lake Plains region 19, 21 , 43, 112-113
81, 147 107 Maturbongs, Fe lix 159
Jayapura 17,44,63,80-83, Lake Sentani 25 , 44-45 , 63 , matutuo 97 , 98
106 82-83, 83, 199 McC luer, John 38
map 80,197 Lake Tigi & Tage 46 McCollom, John 111
practicalities 196-199 Lake Yamur 25 Meervlakte see Lake Plains region
Jayawijaya (Oranje) Range 18, 43 Lang, Andrew 41 megapods 22
Jefman Island 94 languages 17,27,30,31, 33, Mek (Eipomek) 32, 34
Jekni River 136 88, 111 Meneses, Jorge de 36
Jepem (Asmat) 160, 161 Lani see Western Dani men's house see: jeu
Jet River 162 Ie Maire, Jacob 38 Merauke 19, 30, 39, 151
jeu (Asmat)' 82,145, 147, Leman Island 88, 89-90 practicalities 221-223
148-149 , 151, 154, lela (Fakfak) 96 Merkus , Peter 39
154, 160, 161, 162, 164 limestone 19, 64 Merpati Airlines 59, 76, 185-188
jipae (Asmat) 149, 154 Linggadjati Agreement 57 flights 172
Jisik, Herman 162 Linschoten, Jan van 23 metallophones 29
Jiwe River 1 4 7151,16 5 lionfish 77 Mimika 151, 159
Jiwika (Highlands) 124, lizard, frilled 24, 25 Mimikan 30, 31, 150-151
125-126 Lorentz Range 41 mining 92
Kabra Island 93, 94, 203 Lorentz, Dr. H. A. 42 Misoo l Is land 19
Kaimana 31, 87,95,97 Lorentz expedition 110 missionaries 32-34, 35, 46-50,
practicalities 204 Lorentz Strict Nature Reserve 64,66,88,91, 111-112,
rock art 97 , 99 183 136-137 , 148, 151, 160
kain (Dani) 112 , 113, 125 Lost World of Irian Jaya , Missionary Aviation Fellowsh ip
kain timur 31 The 33,227 (MA~ 91 , 141, 187 , 205-206
Kaisiepo, Frans 65 lumber 92,151,163 Mitton , Robert 33, 34, 103
Kameri (Numfor) 75 MacArthur, Gen. Douglas 44-45, Mokmer 67
Kamoro 214-216 63 , 80 Mom i 90
Kamrau Bay 87 monument 82 money 171
Kamu Valley 34, 35 MacCluer Gulf see Berau Gulf Moni 32, 33, 46, 50, 118-121,
Kamur 158 Maclay, Nicolas Mikluho 40 119, 121
Kana River 136 Maibrat (Ayamaru) 31 Moordenaar River 39
Kapauku see Ekari Maimai (Bird's Head) 97 mountains 18
Kapi (Asmat) 154 malaria 29, 32, 39, 146, 148, Bijih (Ertsberg) 51-54, 52
Karubaga 48, 136-141 174-175 Cyclops 83, 183
Kasyom Bay 75 Malay Archipelago, The 40, 225 Hannekam 55
Kayu Island 81 Malaya-Po lynesians 28 Ifar 82
Kekwa 215-216 Mamberamo River 19, 30, 42 , Jayawijaya (Oranje) Range 43
Kelila (Highlands) 141 43, 136 Mandala 19
Kemandoga Valley 118 Mandori (Numfor) 74 Ngga Pulu 19, 42, 43, 210
kettledrums, bronze 29 Manem Island 75 Puncak Jaya 18, 19, 42 ,
INDEX
85-86, 209-210 Pass Val ley 32, 124 rainforest 25, 183
Snow Range 18-19, 106 Patterson , Harry 111 Raja Empat Islands 19, 31,
Sudirman Range 18, 18, pearl farm 93 65,66,87 , 92 , 93, 94,
42,43,108 Pelni 186-188 92 , 93
Trikora (Wilhelmina) 19,41, pen is gourd (horim or koteka) Rani Island 73
42,107,129,130-134, 17,32,33,50, 115, rebellions 88
135,210 117,137 Retes , Ynigo Ortiz de 37
Umsini 90 peoples rice 29, 117 .
Van Rees 42-43 Am ung 32 rivers
Wisnumurti (Star) Range Arfak 88 Aswetsj 158, 161
18,19,43 Asmat see Asmat Baliem 103, 141
Yam in 19 Citak 152, 158 Bene 130
Zaagham 52 Damal 32,47 Betsj 145, 146, 163, 165
mourning 114, 115, 161 Dani see Dani Bogo 141
Mulia 48 Doreri 88 Brazza 152
mummies 114, 124, 125-126, Ekari 30, 32, 34-35 Dagum 130
129, 129 Hmanggona 32 Dairum 152
Museum Negeri 63, 82 Jaqai 30 Digul 32,37,41,43
Muslims 38 Kimyal 32, 34 Doodslage r 39
Nabire 35, 139 Kombai 32 Ewta 154,165,165
practicalities 202 Korowai 32 Fly 36, 37, 39, 40
Nalca 32,34 Maibrat (Ayamaru) 31 Habifluri 107
Namatota Island 97 Marind-Anim 29, 30, 39 Jekni 136
Namber (Numfor) 75 Mek (Eipomek) 32, 34 Jet 162
nanggi (Biak) 65 Mimikan 30, 31, Jiwe 146,67
Negarakertagama 26 150-151 Kano 136
Neva (boat) 36 Moni 118-121 Konda 136
New Guinea 18, 21, 22, 26, Sepik 152 Kurege 136
27,28 Sougb 91 Mamberamo 19, 30, 42 , 43,
border 39 Uhundini 32 136
name 37 Wanesa 88 Mappi 41
World War II 44 Western Dani (Lani) 32, Moordenaar 39
New York Agreement 58 103, 136-141 Powet 162, 163
Newton, Douglas 152 Yali 32-33, 50, 210-211 Pulau Pulau (Eilanden) 41
Ninia 33 Pertamina 92 Sepik 152
noken (Dan i) 116 Per (Asmat) 160 Siretsj 103, 163, 165
nomadism 31 phallocrypts 32 Tariku 19,43,
non-government organization see also horim, koteka Taritatu 19, 43 , 107
(NGO) 193, 199, 202 phallus 149 Tim ika 19, 55
Numfor Island 19,63,64,67, Philippines 28 Tipuka 55
74-75,88; Pigafetta, Antonio 36 Unir 152
practical ities 195 pigs 32, 34, 103, 108, 113, Uwe (Wamena) 101-102,
Nusi Island 70 114, 115, 116, 120 134, 135
Oedhien, Amhier, guide 162 Piramat (Asmat) 24 Yalime 116
oil 58,87,88,92,151 plants 21, 119 Rochemont, de 150
Omadesep (Asmat) 147 police 138, 141, 155, 162 rock art 87, 95, 95-97,
On in Peninsula 87, 96 polygamy 34, 112 98,9S-99
Opiaref (Biak) 68-69 pondok 131-135 Rockefeller, Michae l C. 17, 31,
Oransbari (Bi rd 's Head) 90 population 17, 63, 64, 80, 81, 112-113 , 145, 146-147,
orchids 21, 68, 96 88,103, 147 152
Organisasi Papua Merdeka 56, Port Moresby 37 , 39, 42, 44 Fund 160
59 Portuguese 26,28,36 Roessler, Calvin & Ruth 151
Ota painting style 99 Pospisil , Dr. Leopold 34, 35 Ronsumbre, Biak carver 68
Otsjanep (Asmat) 23, 147, 165 possum , striped 24 Royal Netherlands Geo-
Ottow, C.W. 46 , 88, 90 Powet River 162, 163 graphica l Society 150
Owi Island 69 prehistory 26-29 Roder, Josef 98-99
Owus (Asmat) 160, 165 Prafi (Manokwari) 90, 202 Rumboi (Numfor) 75
Pacific Ocean Plate 18 Protestant mission 33, 34-35, Saavedra, Alvaro de 36-37
Padaido Islands 63, 64, 68, 46-50, 66, 151, 155 sago palms 21,30,72,147,
69-70 air service (MAF) 189, 154
Paniai Lakes 18, 30, 32, 34, 205-206 Sahul She lf 18, 26
42 , 46 , 118 Christian and Missionary Salawati Island 19,87,93
Papuans 26, 27, 28 Alliance (CAM A) 129 sa lt extraction 125, 128
Pakreki (Numfor) 75 KINGMI 136 saltwater springs 128, 129
papisj (Asmat) 150 Pugima (Baliem) 125 Sampaina (Baliem) 126
Pasir Enam (Jayapura) 82 Pulau Buaya 93, 94, 203 Sanepa 118
Pasir Hitam (Yapen) 77 Pulau Pulau River 41 Sansapor 67
Pasir Putih (Manokwari) 88, 89, PuncakJaya 209-210 Saribi (Numfor) 75
202 Pyramid 48, 112, 124, 129, Sauln ier, Tony 43
Pasir Putih (Yapen) 77 139, 141 Sawa-Erma 151, 158
232 INDEX
Schouten Islands 63 Teerink, Captain 43, 107-108 Wasur National Park 182,
Schouten, Willem 38 Tembagapura 51-56, 117, 212 183, 222-223
Sea Gull 40, 41 Tidore 26, 3 1 , 38, 39, 66 waterfall 72, 73, 73, 96, 139
sea travel 95, 146, 159, Tillemans, Fr. H. 39 weather 170
188-189 timber 25, 64, 92 Agats 158
seaweed cultivation 65 Timika Fakfak 203
Sebakor Bay 96 practicalities 212-216 Highlands 139
Senggo (Asmat) 152, 158 Timika River 19, 55 Raja Empat Islands 94
Sentani 44-45, 80, 193-199 Tipuka River 55 Wesaput (Baliem) 125
Sepik River 152 Torres Strait 37, 38 Western Dani (Lani) 32,
Semi (Yapen) 76, 77 Torres, Luis Vaez de 37 136-141, 137
sexual activity 115, 148-149 totem poles see bisj wildlife 22, 25, 182
shaman-smiths 66 trade 29, 3 1 , 38, 116, 148 Wilson, Forbes 53-54
sharks 25, 93 transmigrants 59, 64, 90, 92 Wilson, John 49
fishing 159 transportation 184-189 Wisnumurti (Star) Range 18,
Sibyl Valley 43 travel agents 183, 193, 203, 19,43
Sinatma (Highlands) 151 207-208 Wissel, Lt. F.J. 35, 42, 42
Siretsj River 103, 163, 165 Treaty of Utrecht 37 witchcraft 48, 137
Sjuru (Asmat) 151, 154 trekking 76, 125-129, Wollaston 42
skulls 148, 154, 159 130-135, 136-141, woodcarving
Sky Above and The Mud 182, 208-211 Asmat 146, 152-155,
Below, The (film) 43 trepang 38, 39, 63, 74, 76, 94 160, 161, 163, 220
slaves 24, 3 1 , 38 Triton Bay 39, 87, 97 Biak 68, 69
snakes 24 Tritt, Edward 88 Wo'ogi (Baliem) 129
snorkeling 17, 69, 70, 72, 73, Tugu Arfak (Sorong) 93, 94 World War II 35, 44-45, 64,
74, 76, 89, 90, 93, 202 tuna fishing 24, 64 66-67, 70, 75, 88, 93
Suharto 54, 56, 58, 59, 166 Uhundini 32 relics 63, 75, 90, 94
Sukarno 54, 57, 58, 166 Under the Mountain Wall 113, World Wildlife Fund (WWF) 25,
sonowi (Moni) 120 224 63, 83, 183, 223
Sorendidori Bay 64 United Nations 58-59, 155 wow-ipitsj (Asmat) 152
Sorida 67 United States 58 Wunin 113, 139, 139-140
Sorong 19, 3 1 , 36, 58, 87, Urip (Padaido Islands) 70 Wuperainma (Highlands) 112
92-94, 151 Urville, Dumontd' 38 Yali 32-33, 50, 124, 210-211
map 93 Uwe (Wamena) River 101-102, Yalime 168
practicalities 202-203 134, 135 Yalime River 126
Sougb 91 Uwosilimo (Highlands) 151 Yamu Valley 34
soulships see wuramon Van Areken, Lt. 107-108 Yapen Island 19, 3 1 , 63, 76-77
souvenirs 207, 220-221 Van Enk, Rev. Gert 50 Yapen Waropen district 76
Sowada, Bishop Alphonse A. Van Stone, LLoyd 111 yaws 33, 39
159,160 visas 168-169 Yenburwo (Numfor) 74, 75
Sowek (Supiori) 73 Vogelkop 18, 87 Yos Sudarso Bay 78-79, 80, 8 1
Spanish 28, 36-37 Waga-Waga (Baliem) 128 Yotefa Bay 63, 81
spirits see animism Waigeo Island 19, 22, 40, 87, Yotefa shipping line 185
stone tools 27, 103, 116 92, 93, 94, 98, 203 youngal (Dani) 116
Sudirman Range 18, 18, 42, Wakde Island 45 Zegwaard, Fr. Geradus A
43, 118 Wallace, Alfred Russel 22, 148, 151, 159
Sugokmo 124, 128 40, 46, 80, 87, 88
Summer Institute of Wallacea 22
Linguistics 82, 88, 211 Wamarek (Baliem) 129
Supiori 63, 64, 72, 73 Wamena 17, 48, 50, 111,
Nature Reserve 183 117, 124-129, 136,
suratjalan 87, 128, 141
138,141, 178-179, map 206
217-218, 221 practicalities 205-208
Sureri (Bird's Head) 90 Wamesa group 88
swamps 19, 30 Wandaman Bay 31
Swapodibo (Biak) 68 Wapsdori waterfall 73
sweet potato 28-29, 3 1 , 32, Wapur 72
108, 115, 117 War and Peace in Jalemo 33,
Tabulinetin painting style 98, 220
99 Wardo 68, 73
Tagime (Highlands) 139, 141 warfare
Taiwan 28, 159 mock 111, 116, 125
Tamrau Mountains 19 ritual 17, 103, 113-114
Tangma (Baliem) 129 Warmeri 88, 90
Tanjung Barari(Biak) 69 Waropen 65
Tanjung Kasuari (Bird's Head) 93 Warsa(Biak) 72
Tapiro 39 Warsai 36
Tariku River 19, 43, Warse (Asmat) 162-163
Taritatu River 19, 43 Wassing, Rene 146