Scale Auto - 02.2020

UPGRADE THESE STUNNERS
MAKE REVELL’S 1970 DODGE CHARGERS POP p.42
February 2020
ISSUE 255
p.12
JUMP INTO “DYNO” DON‘S

MERCURY CYCLONE
KITBASH KRAZY!
2 PROJECTS FROM MASTERS TIM BOYD AND ROD MASKIW
W
p.22
p.14
p.46
+8
KIT REVIEWS
SHOW GALLERY BONANZA

SoCAL OPEN IPMS/USA NATS NNL NATIONALS BONUS
Vol. 41 • Issue 5
p.35 p.32 p.38

ONLINE
CONTENT
CODE
PAGE 3
GET MODIFIED!
Hit the dirt with 2 new AMT Modified Stockers!

‘65 CHEVELLE MODIFIED STOCKER The Kats at AMT are all revved-up about their latest release of mid-60’s modified
#AMT1177 (1:25 SCALE)
racers! The ‘65 Chevelle and ‘66 Impala are perfect complimentary kits for the
hardcore Chevy racing fan. With their bash-bar bumpers, wide tires, and full roll-
cages, these dirt-track devils are all business. Why build all your kits stock, when
you can “get modified”?
s Pre-lettered “stenciled” Goodyear tires s New expanded Impala decals

s Chevelle includes optional floater tire s Half-windshields with pad-printed safety screen
‘66 CHEVY IMPALA MODIFIED STOCKER s Realistic detail throughout s Retro Deluxe™ Vintage AMT Packaging
#AMT1183 (1:25 SCALE)
THE TRICK TRIKES

ARE BACK FROM
MPC...
COLLECT ALL SIX!
MAIL BOX CHOPPER (ED ROTH) TACO TRIKE
MPC892 (1:25 SCALE) MPC893 (1:8 SCALE)
SEE OUR FULL PRODUCT LINE-UP AT ROUND2CORP.COM!

GENERAL MOTORS Trademarks used under license to Round 2, LLC. AMT, MPC and design and Round 2 and design are registered trademarks of Round 2, LLC. ©2020 Round 2, LLC, South Bend, IN 46628 USA. Product and packaging designed in the USA. Made in China. All rights reserved.
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Vol. 41 • No. 5
46
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FEATURES NEW KIT REVIEWS

14 Two Kits, One Gasser
Kitbash a 1948 Ford gasser from only two Revell kits: 8 New
a 1957 Ford gasser wagon and a 1948 Ford coupe
BY TIM BOYD Kits p.46
• Tamiya LEON CVSTOS AMG

22 Get Your Goat!
Sometimes there’s no choice but to kitbash five kits • Revell Joey Saldana sprint car
to get the ’68 Pontiac GTO of your dreams • Revell ’76 Chevy Stepside
BY ROD MASKIW
• Revell ’70 Plymouth AAR Cuda
30 ONE GREAT MODEL • AMT ’78 Subaru Brat
Three models, one scene, and a shared passion • Revell Germany Porsche 934
BY CHRIS GASTER
• Alpha Models Ferrari 812
32 SHOW COVERAGE • Tamiya Honda Monkey 125

IPMS/USA Nationals 2019
BY TIM KIDWELL
35 SHOW COVERAGE
DEPARTMENTS
SoCal Open
BY ART LASKI 4 Starting Line 54 Resin Roundup
5 Shop Talk 56 Advertisers Index
38 SHOW COVERAGE 8 New Products 57 Classifieds/Events
NNL Nationals 10 Tips & Tech 58 Classic Kits
BY TIM KIDWELL
12 Bench Racer 59 Finish Line
42 Last of a Generation 46 Kit Reviews
Basic detailing turns up the heat on a pair of Revell
1970 Dodge Chargers
BY CHUCK KOUROUKLIS
Check out ScaleAutoMag.com
ONLINE GALLERY, KIT REVIEWS, TIPS & TECH,
VIDEOS, FORUM, & MORE! Become a registered
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-
STARTINGLINE BY TIM KIDWELL
We Are the Champions

THE NEW YEAR IS UPON US! That means models to build, Executive Editor Mark Savage
Editor Tim Kidwell
shows to attend, and more cool kit releases. Assistant Design Director Scott M. Krall
Editorial Associate Monica Freitag
It also means another year to reaffirm our commitment to work on Editorial Director Diane M. Bacha
something near and dear to many of our hearts: spreading the word about
Editorial Offices 262-796-8776
scale modeling and helping the hobby grow. Fax 262-796-1383
For many years (decades!), I’ve heard prognostications foretelling the Email editor@ScaleAutoMag.com
demise and disappearance of scale modeling. Reasons for this never-quite-
DESIGN & PRODUCTION
realized Armageddon have ranged from MTV to Nintendo to the internet to Design Director Tom Danneman
Fortnite. No one denies the cornucopia of delectable diversions competing for Graphic Designer Sam Primuth
our time every day, and only the purposefully obtuse would fail to recognize Production Coordinator Cindy Barder
the enticements streaming TV or online gaming offer.
ADVERTISING
Even so, we live in what could be considered a Golden Age for scale Ad Sales Representative Michael Wieloch
modeling. If you remove nostalgia from the equation, there are more model Ad Production adservices@kalmbach.com
kits with greater variety and detail light-years beyond anything previously Advertising Department 888-558-1544
Advertising Email mwieloch@kalmbach.com
produced. While prices have certainly increased over the years, they aren’t
disproportionate to inflation plus the myriad improvements and innovations TRADE SALES
realized through better molding technologies and sophisticated designs. Selling Scale Auto magazine or products in your store:
Fellow enthusiasts, we are the champions for our hobby, for if not us, who? Phone 800-558-1544
Outside U.S. and Canada 262-796-8776 ext. 818
As its champions, we must recruit new modelers. For me, that means setting Email tss@kalmbach.com
aside an evening a week when my son and I belly up to the workbench and Web site retailers.kalmbach.com
spend two hours on our respective projects. And now, it’s more than a one-off.
CUSTOMER SERVICE
It’s on the calendar, scheduled, an expectation of shared time and experience. Change of address, delivery problems, new subscriptions,
I manage expectations and let him work on what interests him: Right now, renewals, product orders, or customer inquiries
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pretty cool because a couple of my son’s friends have expressed interest in Customer Service customerservice@ScaleAuto.info
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my four-year-old daughter wants in on the action. number with any correspondence
As contributor Tim Boyd famously says, “Never underestimate the power of KALMBACH MEDIA
enthusiasm.” I couldn’t agree more. Enthusiasm catches, it spreads, and I see it Chief Executive Officer Dan Hickey
from attendees every time I’m at a modeling show. So, how do you intend to Senior Vice President, Finance Christine Metcalf
Senior Vice President,
share your enthusiasm for scale modeling and champion the hobby this year? Consumer Marketing Nicole McGuire
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4 Scale Auto • F E B R U A RY 2 0 2 0
SHOPTALK
EXPANDED REVIEW SECTION
Praise for Mark completely new tool developed in the Go, go, Bench Racer!
Jones and the AWARD WINNER
VON BARON RAT ROD 1990s. The tooling is somewhere in the This is a long overdue email to say
‘Tailgate Special’ TAILGATE SPECIAL
SPEED-SHOP
CUSTOM
’60 CHEVY
FLEETSIDE
BEEFED UP!
FORD
TRANSIT
VAN
EXPANDED
REVIEW
MPC DODGE
D100
HOTNESS
AT NNL
NORTH
& NNL
EAST
neighborhood of 30-years newer.” I thoroughly enjoy Andy Kellock’s
The October 2019 Scale And keep your eyes open for Tim “Bench Racer” column in Scale Auto.
Auto “Tailgate Special” Boyd’s “History of Scale Model Pickups In fact, it was the primary reason I
was a page turner. Once PLUS CLASSIC KITS • SHOP TALK
TIPS & TECH • BENCH RACER
- Chevrolet” in an upcoming issue started my subscription back in 2009.
again, Mark Jones has 8 PAGES!
HISTORY OF FORD
PICKUP KITS
of Scale Auto magazine. Thanks Thanks to his column and builds, I
entertained and for writing! have added the old Ford GT40 to the
challenged our modeling skills with a list of items to get and build at some
superb build. Nicely done. Scale Auto in action point. Then I’ll have to add a Gulf
Two questions: 1) Does Fraxional I just wanted to say how much I Porsche with a Steve McQueen figure.
market the parts we see in the “Kickin’ enjoy your magazine. I just received Thanks for the excellent column.
up the go-kart” sidebar on Page 27? my October 2019 “Tailgate Special.” It Neil Farukhi
2) The AMT ’60 Chevrolet pickup arrived just as I started my 1960 Chevy Rochester, NY
components seem rather advanced Fleetside custom project. Thanks to
compared to other early 1960s model Mark Jones and his great article, I No beef with the Ford Transit
kits. Could Tim Boyd weigh in? learned how to lower the suspension I’m a regular subscriber, I’ve just
Again, bravo and thanks to Mark for my pickup. received the October 2019 Scale Auto,
Jones! Phil Scavo and it’s excellent as always.
Jay Gress Old Forge, PA I loved the “Beefed-up Ford Transit”
via email story. It really looks the part.
When the Ford Transit was launched
Ed: Jay, we’re happy you enjoyed the back in 1965, it was more advanced
“Tailgate Special.” I reached out to than the competition and soon became
Mark Jones about the parts from Britain’s best-selling van. In fact, it
Fraxional. He says: “I am working became so popular that in the UK the
with Fraxional to get an online catalog word Transit has become the generic
together, and we hope to offer the term for this type of vehicle, regardless
go-kart parts for sale sometime of make.
next year.” Tom Valenta’s model conversion was
While I didn’t talk to Tim Boyd not that far off the mark, as I believe
about the AMT 1960 Chevy Fleetside Ford offered a four-wheel-drive Transit
kit, I did reach out to John Greczula, in the ’70s and ’80s. This was not unlike
model kit development director at the model, but didn’t sit as high and
Round 2. John says, “The kit is a was on smaller wheels. I think this was
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SHOPTALK
a factory approved conversion supplied Lindberg Exterminator twin-engine Corvair was built in 1969 and has all
through Ford dealers and was used dragster kit, all of which sat on my shelf but disappeared from public view, I
mainly by power and utility companies until now. suspect that Mark had no idea how the
that needed the capacity of a van with After several mods, I completed fan was powered.
off-road capabilities. the dragster as an homage to the Discounting this one error, it was an
Nowadays, four-wheel-drive pickups 1962 Moon Eyes dragster. Then, I excellent review.
have taken on this role. built a 1950s-style ’32 Ford salt-flat Joel Mith
Great magazine, just one problem: racer. Leavenworth, KS
It isn’t monthly! My next project will be to turn the
Richard Tyjas Big T into a 1960s-style gasser. Ed: Glad to hear from you, Joel! Mark
Harwich, Essex, England Even though I’ve had a lot of great was aware of the shortcomings of the
1/1 hot rods, I still love building engine’s accuracy. But considering the
model cars. age of the kit and other simplified
Michael Rust parts throughout, he decided — and
Phoenix, AZ rightly so — that going into detail
about the engine was beyond the
The case of the purposes of his feature, which was to
disappeared drivebelt help modelers complete a satisfying
I got my AMT Piranha Drag Team kit build of an interesting, unusual
today. After inspecting the kit and subject. However, if we run a feature
instructions and rereading the review about accurizing the engine of an
(October 2019, Page 52), I noticed that AMT Piranha kit, rest assured we’ll
both AMT and Mark Jones missed a make certain the drivebelt is present
vital detail: The Corvair engine in the and accounted for.
coupe is missing the drivebelt for the
Never too late to start central cooling fan!
something new All Corvairs I worked on, the
I too grew up building model cars, and drivebelt came up from the crankshaft
now, at 72, I decided to finally build and drove the alternator, which was
some custom versions of models from turned 90 degrees from the crankshaft
my youth. to wrap around a pulley on the fan,
I’ve always been fascinated by 1/8 then to an idler parallel to the alternator
scale cars and imagined customizing which was used to adjust the belt
them beyond the box stock. The tension.
challenge with 1/8 scale is the lack of I will check the AMT Parts Pack with
models to kitbash. the other Corvair engine and see if the
Years ago, I bought Monogram fan belt has the proper orientation to
Big Deuce and Big T kits and the use on my coupe. Considering the last
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Ed: Scott, I contacted Tim Boyd for his Lotus is molded in dark British racing
thoughts. Here’s what he said: “I don’t green. The IMC and AMT kits were
have the Checker Flag Series Lotus kit similar, though clearly from different
in my stash; I do have the 1970s reissue tools. Could your green one be the IMC
and the AMT/Ertl 1980s Indy 500 tool instead?
combo including the Lotus kit. All of “For these types of questions, you
those are molded in white. can post on the Spotlight Hobbies
“I checked with model car kit board at wwwboard2.spotlighthobbies.
Original or not? historian Mark Budniewski who owns com and often get an informed answer
I have two of the AMT Indy Lotus a circa 1969 ‘All American Show-n-Go’ quickly.”
Checkered Flag series. One is molded in combo kit with the Lotus and Offy To confuse matters more, Executive
green, the other in white. Both have the Roadster. On that kit the Lotus is Editor Mark Savage built his AMT
original instruction sheets and decals. illustrated in dark green with a white Lotus kit in the 1960s. It was molded in
Do you know if AMT issued them in stripe and a No. 68 roundel. His is green. Hope this all helps!
both colors or did somebody stuff one of molded in white.
the boxes with reissued parts? Thanks “I own several of the Offy Roadster
for your time! original issue Checker Flag series kits
Scott Vlkovic (produced at the same time as the Lotus Specializing in
San Jose, CA kit), and they are all molded in white. old and collectible
“My takeaway is your white one is model kits, over
QUESTIONS? legit. The Lotus could have been molded 10,000 in stock!
in green at some point, although Mark
nor I have ever seen one. Certain kit We buy model collections.
Send your questions and comments to
SCALE AUTO, Ask Scale Auto runs could have been molded in We also do mail order.
21027 Crossroads Circle, Box 1612 different colors, e.g., the AMT ’40
Waukesha WI 53187-1612 Willys/’32 Ford Tudor double kit Come visit us on the web at:
E-mail: editor@ScaleAutoMag.com featured in the August 2019 Scale Auto www.deanshobbystop.com
‘Classic Kits’ column was molded in at Contact us for a free catalog.
All letters submitted will be considered for Specify car or military list.
publication unless otherwise specified. We’re least four colors.
sorry, but personal replies are not possible. “Another, unlikely, possibility: The 116 N. Washington Street, Owosso, MI 48867
1976 Testors reissue of the IMC Indy Phone: 989-720-2137 Fax: 989-720-0937
Email: dean@deanshobbystop.com
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NEWPRODUCTS
1/25 Scale Kits • 1940 Ford Sedan Delivery 1/25 Scale Detail Sets
• ’63 Chevrolet Impala SS hardtop, (Coca-Cola), No. AMT1161, $31.99.
• Firestone Drag 500 tire set, No.
No. AMT1149M/12, $28.99. From From Round 2
AMTOO022, $14.99. From Round 2
Round 2 • 1974 Plymouth Road Runner
• Big Rig Truck Modeling semi
• Don Garlits Wynn’s Jammer, No. No. MPC920M, $28.99. From
tractor and trailer tires, No.
AMT1163/12, $29.99. From Round 2 Round 2
AMTPP023/24, $15.99. From
• 1966 Plymouth Barracuda Hemi • 1995 GMC Sonoma pickup
Round 2.
Under Glass, No. AMT1153, $28.99. No. AMT1158M, $29.99. From
• Photo-etch battery kit (black),
From Round 2 Round 2
No. 20002, $9.50. From Gofer Racing
• The Funny Fueler Digger • 1976 Chevy Vega Funny Car
• Photo-etch battery kit (red and
Dragster, No. AMT1154, $26.99. No. AMT1156, $29.99. From
black), No. 20001, $9.50. From
From Round 2 Round 2
Gofer Racing
MORE AT SCALEAUTOMAG.COM
Check ScaleAutoMag.com
for the latest kit reviews,
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tips, techniques, reader
forum, and more! Become
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and get in on all the
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Die-cast
• 1971 Plymouth GTX, No. AMM1186/06,
$99.99. From Auto World
1/24 Scale Kits Books

• Lancia LC2, No. 3641, $35. • Bugatti Type 35 Grand Prix
From Italeri Car and Its Variants, $28.95
• ’66 Chevrolet Impala SS 396 by Lance Cole, soft cover, 64
2 ‘n 1, No. 85-4497, $23.95. pages, all color photos, ISBN:
From Revell 1526756765. From Pen & Sword
• ’87 Buick Grand National Books, Ltd.
2 ‘n 1, No. 85-4495, $23.95.
From Revell
SOURCES
• Auto World • Pen & Sword Books Ltd.
www.autoartmodels.com www.pen-and-sword.co.uk
• Gofer Racing • Round 2
www.newcenturyhobbies.com www.round2corp.com
• Italeri • Revell, Revell Germany
www.italeriusa.com www.revell.com, www.revell.de
1/ 25
24 &
/
ca le 1
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We specialize in Out-of Production

cars & truck kits old and new.
Check with your local hobby

Prewired shop, or order online from: If you have a collection to sell,
Photo-Etch Distributor or want to buy kits from us
Battery Kit directly, please email us.
1-800-777-3977 modelcarmountain@yahoo.com
TIPS&TECH BY KEN HAMILTON
Q I’m converting two different cars

to match 1/1 cars I have owned.
The first kit is a Fujimi Mercedes
190 Evolution II. I can’t find eight-spoke
wheels to match the ones on the cars.
they’re still out there, even if a bit rare.
Regarding the inline six, it all
depends on how picky you are
regarding scale. There are a couple
available in 1/25 scale. For an engine, I
some cars of that era had matching
interior and exterior colors, I’m going to
use the same Tamiya spray lacquer
inside and out. I’d like to get the satin
finish of the seats just right, which pre-
Secondly, I’m looking for a 1/24 scale wouldn’t be concerned about that cludes using the flat paints I’ve used for
Chevy 250 six-cylinder engine. Any help difference in scale (1/24 and 1/25 are earlier cars. However, Tamiya doesn’t
would be appreciated. awfully close, but some builders are offer a semigloss clear. Would Testors
– Ken Stubert, via email particular). Chevy inline sixes ranged semigloss lacquer (or any other brand)
from 216 to 292 cid and varied in size do the trick? I’ve had limited experience
A
As it turns out, you were in the for trucks and passenger cars. The 250 with airbrushing.
right ballpark regarding your was more of a 1960s motor, and the – David Whitney, via email
search for wheels — just the only ’60s kit out there now is the
A
wrong seat. I had no idea where to look Trumpeter 1963 Nova, which has an The answer will be much
either, so I turned to Joel Mendoza at in-line six. Another source is Model shorter than the question,
icemancollections.com, which offers a Car World (mcwfinishes.com). It has a David: Yes. Just about any brand
wide range of resin parts including great looking six-banger that might of semigloss or satin finish spray will
many different wheel sets, figures, work for you, too. Check out the firm’s work but, as always, test it on a scrap
diorama supplies, and more. Joel ad at the back of this issue. piece of plastic just to be sure before
informed me that Fujimi offered a spraying your interior. I presented your
Mercedes Benz 600SL coupe in 1994
that has the exact wheels you’re looking
for. A quick search turned up one on
eBay for about $40 + shipping, so
Q I’m planning on building my first
mid-60s factory-stock/show-
room car, a 1966 Mercury. I’m
new to cars of this period, and, since
question in its entirety to emphasize
the “same color” scheme
of many cars of
that era, which
TWO MORE WHEEL QUESTIONS

Q I have problems with wheels on scale autos having a
good fit. They’re either too wobbly or too tight. I was
wondering if those who model a lot just glue the wheels.
Q With such a wide variety of
scale tires and rims avail-
able, it’s sometimes difficult to
– Jim Morrell, via email change those kit items to what-
ever you have in your stash or to
A That’s a good question, Jim, and one we might not

think about as often as we should. It all depends on
the modeler and the model.
add aftermarket tires and wheels to
your model. How do modelers alter the
axles and rims to fit different sized tires?
Some models are created so the wheels will spin, like – Jerry Gilsterap, via email
older kits with straight metal axles. In those cases, simply
be careful that the wheels are securely attached
perpendicular to the axles. Other kits have caps that fit
over and are glued to the spindles, allowing the wheels to
A Another good question that also depends on the
items and the modeler. To fit the wheels to the axles
(or spindles) refer to Jim’s question above. Fitting tires to
rotate freely. In those cases, make sure the wheels fit wheels is another matter.
precisely over the spindles before adding the cap. If the First, try to get as close a match as possible in your
wheel is tight, carefully enlarge the hole in the wheel with choice of tires and wheels. From there, determine whether
a round file or drill bit. If the hole in the wheel is too big it would be easier to modify the tire or the wheel, or, in
you might have to plug the hole with a bit of styrene rod some cases, do a little of both. The inner diameter of tires
and drill a new one, or cut off the spindle and replace it. can be enlarged by carefully trimming the rubber with a
(Note: it’s easier to plug the hole in the wheel.) sharp hobby blade. Plastic or resin tires can be enlarged
A close fit between the spindle and wheel opening will with a sanding drum chucked in a rotary tool. Do a lot of
prevent it from wobbling. Then, with the wheel in place, test-fitting with the wheel as you go along.
fit the cap over the spindle with as little glue as possible. If the tire is already too big, the diameter of the rim can
Push the cap against the wheel just tight enough to allow be increased by wrapping it with tape or thin styrene to
the wheel to spin freely. That should do the trick. get a correct fit.
On the other hand, many modelers glue the wheels in Keep in mind that any modifications could greatly
place. This allows you to flatten the bottom of the tire just affect the final appearance. With all the aftermarket pieces
a bit to get a more realistic appearance. And on the more available now, it’s best to find tires and rims that closely
practical side, it keeps the model from accidently rolling match before making any big changes to either.
off the table!
TIP OF THE MONTH
I think is pretty cool, while at the same
time highlighting the difference
between the gloss exteriors and
Give your engine some spark
semigloss interiors. Good luck with Jeffrey Divoll provided another tip, this time for adding a great — but
your project. simple — detail to your scale engines. Here’s Jeffrey to explain:
“Many modelers add spark-plug boots to plug wires going into the block,
but how about kicking it up a notch by adding spark plugs? First, drill your
READER spark plug holes in the block using a No. 67 bit. Next, cut short pieces of .030-
inch white styrene rod for the spark plugs and sand one end to a point. Slip
TIPS the pointed end into your boot material (the point makes it easier to insert).
Insert the plug wire into the other end of the boot. When that’s done, glue the
• I scratchbuild sun visors by using white spark plug into the engine block. That little touch of white spark plug
the following method: Glue two small makes the engine pop.”
pieces (about 1 inch x 1⁄2 inch) of .030-
inch sheet styrene together and cut or
file it to the shape of the sun visor. Drill
a small hole at one end of the visor; the
seam between the two pieces will help
center the bit. Next, cut about of 3⁄8-inch
length of .032-inch K&S brass rod and
bend it to form a 90-degree angle. Slip
one end into the hole in the visor. Drill a
hole into the top of the windshield and
glue the visor into place. If you don’t
glue the wire into the visor, it can fold up
and down like the real thing.
– Jeffrey Divoll, via snail mail
• Some kits have flash on the parts

or sprues. Don’t throw the flash away!
Use it for spark-plug looms. Cut a small
rectangle of flash and drill holes for the
plug wires. Slip a wire through the holes.
I did this on my GTO and it looks great.
– Tony Swaekauski, via snail mail
• Microwave-safe snack and side-

dish trays are perfect containers for
stripping small parts with oven cleaner. READER REACTION
They come in many different sizes and
aren’t affected by the cleaner. When Regarding the difference between airbrush
you’re done, just wash them out and cleaner and paint thinner in the October 2019 issue
save them for next time. Also, old tooth- (Page 10), do not use paint thinner. Use lacquer
brushes that you can use to scrub off thinner for all spirit-based enamels. Certain manu-
stubborn paint can be washed out and facturers, notably Testors, put an ingredient into
saved, too. their spirit-based enamels that is incompatible with
– Mark Birdsell, via email standard paint thinner and converts the pigments
to a rubbery lump of what is
basically insoluble goo. It fools
you, too, because it seems
QUESTIONS FOR KEN? to be working fine while
you’re using the paint thinner, but the next time you
want to use the paint the damage has been done.
Mail your building questions – George Shaeffer, via email
and modeling tips to
SCALE AUTO, Tips & Tech
21027 Crossroads Circle, Box 1612 Ken: Interesting observation, George. I’d like to hear
Waukesha WI 53187-1612 from other readers on this issue, too, to find out if
Email: they’ve had a similar experience.
KHamiltonSA@aol.com
BENCH RACER
Andy Kellock pulled parts

from several kits along with
markings from Slixx Decals
to make this replica of the
1967 Eliminator II dragster.
A CYCLONE
IN A HURRY
Build a correct “Dyno” Don Nicholson Eliminator II
By Andy Kellock
It’s great that AMT continues to re-release older kits that the chassis doesn’t replicate the one
used on the actual car.
haven’t been seen for decades, especially with better tires, chrome Therefore, I set myself the task of
and decals. As a drag racing fan, I was excited to see the recent modeling a more accurate ’67
release of “Dyno” Don Nicholson’s Eliminator II Mercury Cyclone. Eliminator II.
AMT’s stock 1967 Mercury Comet
However, I was disappointed to see body is correct, the kit’s wheelbase is Cyclone GT (No. 6750), which has
that the kit doesn’t look anything like off, the 427 SOHC is equipped with a been released several times, provides
the actual car. While the ’67 Comet blower instead of velocity stacks, and the correct wheelbase. Even though the
12 Scale Auto • Fe b r u a r y 2 0 2 0
horizontal character line doesn’t run
the length of the body like it should,
the large lettering on the sides will
obscure most of the character line — or
lack thereof — anyway.
The body needed to be smoothed to
look like a single piece of fiberglass. To
get there, I removed all the badging
along with the molded windshield
wipers. The front and rear panel lines
and gas door were filled in and sanded
smooth. I glued the hood to the body
and filled the vents in front of the
windshield, 1.
The real dragster had a Logghe
chassis. I scavenged one from a Revell
Hawaiian Charger (No. 85-4287)
because the wheelbase was almost
identical to the ’67 Comet. As it turned
out, the entire chassis and tin-work
from the Charger kit could be used
without much modification.
The roll cage needed only a little
work. First, I removed the fuel-tank
brackets and a couple of other
1 Andy shaved the body of the AMT 1967 Comet Cyclone, removing all badging, the
windshield wipers, and door handles. He glued the hood to the body and filled the panel
lines, including the vents in front of the windshield.
extraneous pieces. Then I added the
curved bar at the back and between the
uprights made from styrene rod, 2.
The tin-work is not prototypically
correct, but it fits the body nicely, so I
ran with it.
The only major modification was to Fuel-tank brackets
add an engine cover with a hump to Styrene rod
accommodate the engine stacks, 3.
You can find a 427 SOHC engine in
several AMT kits, including the ’66
Galaxie and ’68 Shelby GT500. Any of
the Model King 1965 A/FX kits will
work, too. I used the one from the
Daddy Warbucks kit, which comes with
an eight-stack induction system. Even
2 The Logghe chassis and interior from
the Revell Hawaiian Charger is a good
match to the real Eliminator II chassis.
3 The Eliminator II engine cover was
scratchbuilt from sheet styrene
(dimensions in millimeters) and glued
so, I replaced the stacks with metal Andy modified the roll cage with styrene inside the body.
ones made from 2.5mm boot-lace rod and removed the fuel-tank brackets.
ferrules. I shortened and installed the
zoomie headers from the Revell
Charger kit. Pack (No. PP008). I covered the blue from Slixx Decals that included
I repurposed a bomb from a 1/48 line with flat black acrylic paint, markings for the 1965-67 cars (No.
scale airplane kit as the fuel tank. After leaving the Goodyear script. The front DDMC1/1941). Even though the Slixx
removing the fins and reducing its and rear wheels can be found in the decals included the white pinstripe, I
overall length, I painted the tank with a Polar Lights Funny Car kits, such as chose to paint it instead.
Molotow chrome pen. The fuel-tank Rambunctious (No. 6505) or Ghost The front and rear windows came
brackets were made from styrene sheet, Charger (No. 6551). from the AMT Cyclone kit, but I made
and I ran plumbing from the tank to Color photos of the real Eliminator the side glass from butyrate sheet. I
the fuel pump on the front of the II show either a metallic red or a added rivets to all the glass using a
engine block. bronzy brown paint job. I split the 1mm Molotow pen.
The front tires also came from the difference and painted mine with Lastly, I covered the headlights with
Charger kit; the kit’s rear slicks were Testors Honduras maroon (No. 28112). ¼-inch discs of sheet aluminum cut
too wide. I substituted Goodyear Blue The AMT decals aren’t accurate either: with a punch-and-die set and added a
Streak 10-inch drag slicks from the Eliminator II had silver lettering with parachute in back from the Revell
AMT Custom and Competition Parts white borders. I opted for the markings Charger kit.
Two kit , e
s on
Kitbash two Revell kits to

model a 1948 Ford gasser
by Tim Boyd
ack in the day, modelers might

pull parts from 10 or more kits
while kitbashing. Now, with kit
prices what they are and time at a
premium, I’ve been asked time and
again about kitbashing with fewer
donor kits. So, when Revell introduced
its 1957 Ford Gasser 2 ‘n 1 wagon and
1948 Ford Coupe kits a couple of years
ago, it prompted me to wonder if I
could build a convincing 1948 Ford
gasser from just two kits.
My plan was to combine the body,
frame, and interior of the 1948 Ford
1 The 312 Y-block V8 in Revell’s 1957
Ford gasser wagon (FG) includes new
carbs, intake manifold, valve covers, and
2 I pieced together the ’48 Ford coupe
(FC) stock front and rear suspensions
with masking tape and placed them on the
coupe with the drag racing parts from headers. I assembled the engine straight FC frame. With the suspensions in place, I
the 1957 Ford gasser, including the hot- from the box, painted it, and ran wires marked the centerlines of the front and
rodded Y-block V8, straight-tube front and fuel lines. Notice the Y-block rear axles on the frame rails. The front
axle, and 9-inch Ford rear differential. distributor is angled toward the axle centerline aligns with the molded
But could I implement the plan? passenger side of the engine. suspension bump stops.
Combining the drivetrain
and suspension components
of Revell’s 1957 Ford Wagon
Gasser with its 1948 Ford
Police Coupe 2 ‘n 1 kit yields
a convincing interpretation of
today’s street gasser trend.
Originally, a gasser was a drag-racing coupe or sedan with up allowed imports like the British Anglia and Austin to compete.
to a 10% engine setback and a restriction that the engine In the late 1960s, even cars like the Mustang, Barracuda, and
crankshaft centerline be no more than 24 inches above the Opel GT were often seen in the gasser classes. Between the
ground. Rules specified requirements for street-legal growing popularity of Funny Cars and Pro Stockers, aided by
components like headlights and taillights, a passenger seat, some controversial NHRA classification changes, the original
and a functional cooling system. Beyond that, racers had a lot Gasser Era had played itself out by the early 1970s.
of discretion when it came to engine choice and suspension Today, gasser is understood to refer to almost any car set
alterations, as well as modest body alterations. up with a high-riding straight axle front suspension, a drag-
During the Golden Era of Gassers (roughly 1962-1967), the racing inspired engine, and a lot of attitude. Truthfully, anyone
most popular gassers in the top classes were 1933-41 Willys, searching a 1960s drag-racing photo archive would struggle
with 1955-57 Chevys filling out the lower classes. Convertibles to find a competitive 1948 Ford coupe or 1957 Ford wagon
and sports cars (like the Corvette and original Thunderbird) gasser. But such a 1/1 gasser would certainly attract a crowd.
were not allowed to compete in gasser races. If you prefer the original gasser definition, check out “Top
Later on, the National Hot Rod Association (NHRA) reduced 10 gasser kits of all time”, Scale Auto October 2013, and “Kits
the minimum wheelbase allowed in the gasser classes, which from the Gasser Wars,” (Parts 1 and 2), April and June 2003.
3 To locate the rear mount for the leaf springs, I marked both
rails 9⁄16 inch behind the front-axle centerline. I drilled a
hole in each rail with a micro bit and pin vise.
4 I marked the raised pads on the FG parts 254 and 255 with a
red pen and snipped them from both pieces. But I wasn’t
done with them!
5 I placed the rear locator pins on the FG’s leaf springs in the
holes I'd drilled, slid the pads from parts 254 and 255 under
the front locator pins, and glued them to the rails.
6 The FC’s chassis is narrower than the FG’s, which meant I
had to file new flats on the upper surface of the FG’s front
axle (marked in red) to attach the leaf springs.
7 In back, I aligned the centerline of the FG’s axle mounting

flanges with the axle centerline. I marked the locations
where I needed to drill holes for the leaf-spring locator pins.
8 The front crossmember interfered with the oil pan sump. I
could remove part of the crossmember (the black-and-white
area) or substitute a rear-sump oil pan from an AMT '57 T-bird.
Transmission crossmember
Transmission mount
crossmember
Engine mount
crossmember
9 I removed part of the front crossmember. At this point, I

marked the transmission crossmember for removal, which
I’ll do later. It stays put for now.
10 Both the engine mount and transmission mount crossmembers
must be removed from the frame of the FG. Make sure to
include a bit of the frame rails with the crossmembers. This will
allow for fine-tuning when fitting them to the FC frame.
Removed plastic
11 With the Y-block as a guide, I aligned the new crossmembers,

adjusted their fit, and glued them to the frame. The engine’s
front mounts (engraved on the engine block) and transmission
12 The Y-block’s generator sits low in front of the engine.
To accommodate it, I removed additional material from the
front frame crossmember with a 3⁄8-inch grinding stone and
mount should match with the new crossmembers. rotary tool.
Reshaped X-member parts
13 The bottom of the FC chassis X-frame (Part 67) had to be

modified to fit around the new transmission crossmember.
I shaped the piece to transition smoothly into the rest of
14 I tape the chassis to a solid surface for proper alignment
and glued the tweaked bottom X-member parts in place.
They didn’t want to stay put, so I taped them down firmly until
the X-frame on the chassis and removed the original the glue dried.
transmission mount.
15 To wrap up frame modifications, I cut the rear shock mount
crossmember off the FG frame and glued it to the coupe
frame — check my red arrows. I had to shim the crossmember
16 Part of the transmission tunnel is missing on the floor
of the FC. I shaped a rectangle of .015-inch sheet styrene
into a U and glued it to the floorboard up to the marks shown.
with thin sheet styrene for a secure fit. After the glue dried,
I primed and painted the frame.
17 To save finishing with chrome later and allow more

flexibility when applying decals, I removed the trim on the
fenders and upper beltline (black). However, I retained the
18 Turning to the FC interior, I removed the rear seat cushion
with a razor saw. The engraved shoulder straps (outlined in
red) went next, then I filed the surfaces flat to look like a
engraved character lines on the front and rear fenders (red). sheet-metal bulkhead.
Masking tape protected the C-pillar drip rails from sanding.
Roll-cage supports
19 I covered the hole where the seat once was with .030-inch
sheet styrene. The roll cage from the FG fit without
modifications. But I had to shorten the roll-cage supports to
20 Furnishing the interior, I faced a number of options: I could
use the FC front bench and side panels, but I’d remove the
rear armrests and ash trays (red). The complete interior from a
fit the floor pan. Revell 1948 Ford chopped custom would work, too. Or I could
dump the bench for bucket seats from my spares.
WANT SOMETHING
MORE AGGRESSIVE?
Visit ScaleAutoMag.com
and search “rat gasser”
for Tim’s step-by-step
build of a 1948 Ford rat-
Right half of rod gasser!
instrument cluster
22 Inside, I used the bucket seats and FC side

panels; painted gloss, semigloss, and flat
black; carpeted with Ken’s Fuzzi-Fur. The seat belts
and accelerator came from my spares.
21 While I thought about the seats, I separated the plated FC instrument

panel (Part 29) into two pieces and glued the right half to the dash. I
filed it and the trim on the passenger side of the dash even. Next, I filled
23 The completed interior provides the proper
vibe. Revell provides decals for the instrument
cluster and tachometer faces. The steering wheel
seams and depressions with putty and sanded it all smooth. The stand- and fire extinguisher were both sourced from my
alone tachometer (Part 245) comes from the FG. parts box (the FG steering wheel would work, too).
Aftermarket traction bars
Kit traction bars
24 The tubular front axle, stout post-World War II rear

differential, parallel front and rear leaf springs, and the
shock absorbers come from the FG. I bought long rear traction
25 A test-fit of the FG rear axle showed it wasn’t wide
enough. I cut off the ends of the FC rear axle and glued
them to the gasser’s and they worked perfectly.
bars (No. P-131 ) from Replicas & Miniatures Co. of Maryland, but
chose to use the traction bars from the gasser kit instead.
Aftermarket traction bar
Traction bar
26 To avoid more modifications to the suspension, I installed

the FG traction bars. However, I had to trim the traction
bar frame mounts to fit to the FC frame rails.
27 The wheels and tires from the FG work well, but I
substituted styrene front tires from my spares and slicks
from a Moebius Models 1965 Mercury Comet Cyclone drag racer.
28 I trimmed the front of the water pump and the rear of the
fan to allow the engine to clear the FC radiator. Note the
location of the over-the-frame headers from the FG.
29 I traced the slicks onto the back fenders and corrected
the openings with a rotary tool with a speed control set
to a moderate RPM. I a slick with sandpaper for final shaping.
30 To accommodate the over-the-frame headers, I removed

the unwanted plastic from the FC engine compartment
with a motor tool and grinding stone.
31 To get the body and interior assembly to mate correctly
with the chassis, I notched the firewall and ground away
part of the transmission tunnel. Do this before final assembly!
Mounting flanges 1933 Willys push bar Fuel-tank crossmember

Custom grille
Stock grille 1940 Willys push bar
32 I cut the top bar from the FC stock grille and combined it
with the custom FC grille (minus one bar). I also modified
the mounting flanges on the FG Moon gas tank to fit the grille.
33 In back, I could have used the FG fuel-tank crossmember,
but considered AMT 1933 and 1940 Willys gasser push
bars, a parachute, frame hooks, and front tow bar.
Learn to paint horizontal
fades with spray paint
in the December
2011 Scale Auto
magazine!
34 With the '40 Willys push bars in back, I painted a Gene Winfield-style finish. I started with a Tamiya pearl white (TS-45) base
coat. The top and side fades are pearl yellow (TS-97). I finished with a clear orange (TS-73) fade along the bottom.
35 This engine compartment looks like it was designed for a

Ford Y-Block rather than a Ford Flathead V8. The flat
yellow headers replicate a short-lived late-1960s trend of
36 You can see all the parts from the FG adapted to the FC
frame. Not a completely drop-in conversion, but, as
kitbashing ventures go, surprisingly drama free. Notice how
tinted (rather than black or white) heat-treated header paint. nicely the X-frame crossmember turned out.
A gasser built from just two kits will include some short
cuts. For example, an original-era gasser would have a
four-speed manual transmission and external clutch shield,
neither of which I did here. I did go outside the lines a little:
The markings came from Slixx Decals, and I pulled a piece
or two from my spares or aftermarket. But it could have
been done entirely with parts from the two kits!
That said, even the simplest kitbashing project can be
an enjoyable and affordable experience while yielding an
eye-catching and mostly realistic result. If it’s been a while
since you've tried kitbashing, or, if you’ve never done it,
this would be a good time to get to it.
37 On the back end, my ’48 Ford gasser wears the stock 1948
coupe taillights, and a license plate and frame from the FG
kit. The raised ride height and rake are historically authentic.
– Tim Boyd
Kitbash a 1968 Pontiac GTO
by Rod Maskiw
or a long time, I’d wanted a 1/25 friend gifted me an original MPC kit of planning how to improve the details.
F scale ’68 Pontiac GTO on my shelf,

but finding the venerable MPC kit
at a reasonable price proved difficult.
the elusive “Goat” for my 50th birthday.
More than grateful, I promised him the
box for his collection after I’d built the
Like so many modelers, I have more
kits than I will ever complete, so
parting out some kits for the project
When I’d almost given up the search, a model and immediately began didn’t bother me too much.
Rod Maskiw waited years to take the leap and build a 1/25 scale
1968 Pontiac GTO, and all it took was a well-timed birthday gift,
four kits to mine for parts, and a couple of aftermarket details
for the finishing touches.
1 I set aside the MPC ’68 GTO chassis in favor of an AMT/Ertl

’69 Olds chassis. But would it fit under the MPC body? Both
cars have the same wheelbase, so I hoped for the best. The
2 But the fit wasn’t perfect. First, I needed to trim about 1/8
inch from the chassis up front to allow the wheel wells to
move forward.
test-fit looked promising, and the firewall fit remarkably well.
3 I planned to open the trunk, so the bosses needed to go. I
removed them with a grinding bit chucked in a rotary tool to
within 1/16 inch of the trunk lid. Then I smoothed the remainder
4 The MPC 1968 GTO body didn’t have any cowl detail or
radiator support. To correct this, I carefully removed these
areas from the AMT 1969 Oldsmobile body with a panel scriber
away with a riffler file and sanding sticks. and razor saw and integrated them into the GTO.
5 An assortment of files and sanding sticks helped me remove

the GTO and Pontiac badging from the body. I later replaced
them with aftermarket photo-etched (PE) metal details from
6 After removing the bosses from the trunk and hood, I filled
the voids and ejector-pin marks with J-B Weld. I’ve had
success using J-B Weld as a filler that doesn’t shrink like some
Model Car Garage. modeling putties.
7 The wheel wells on the ’69 Oldsmobile chassis were

too narrow to mate to the GTO body. I glued scrap
styrene to the wheel wells and filed the edges to
fit the body. Automotive filler worked well
to even out the surfaces. The work is
imperfect, but it’ll be hidden
by flat black paint and
the tires.
BRINGING
THE HAMMER
The Pontiac GTO, or Goat as it is
affectionately called, is widely
considered to be the original
muscle car and popularized the
formula of putting big-displacement
V8 engines into intermediate-sized
cars. The early GTO looked good,
its slightly boxy style fitting with
other cars of the day. For 1968,
General Motors unveiled a new
corporate look for its intermediate
8 With the help of a razor saw, I trimmed, then sanded, the wheel backs from an AMT
’69 Olds to mate with the Rally 1 wheels from a Revell ’66 GTO. You don’t often see
Rally 1 wheels on ’68 GTOs, and that’s why I wanted them. The redline tires came from
cars that featured voluptuous
curves and a semi-fastback
roof line.
a Revell ’69 Dodge Charger Daytona. The 1968 GTO was arguably
the most elegant of the new
intermediates, especially with
its optional hidden headlights
and all-new Endura front bumper.
The commercial for the 1968
GTO fascinated me as a boy. I
remember the spokesman in the
ad striking the Endura bumper
with a sledgehammer to no
apparent effect.
The combination of great
styling and advertising must
have worked because Pontiac
sold more than 87,000 of
the 1968 GTO, and it was
named Motor Trend’s Car
9 Of course, after painting, I discovered the Oldsmobile’s passenger-side exhaust

pipe needed to be lengthened 3/ 16 inch to reach the engine’s manifold. I had to
remove a 3⁄ 32-inch section from the driver’s side pipe.
of the Year.
10 I painted the main chassis pan Model Master Metalizer burnt metal (No. 141501). The frame rails were carefully masked with
Tamiya tape and Bare-Metal Foil. Silly Putty masked the contoured edges. After an hour of masking, it took me about a minute
to airbrush everything else semigloss black.
11 I installed the corrected exhaust pipes along with the front and rear suspensions. The modified pipes have been repainted and,
thankfully, everything is lining up correctly.
KITS USED
• 1/25 MPC 1968 GTO Pontiac Hardtop
• 1/25 AMT/Ertl Muscle 1969 Olds W-30
443 (chassis)
• 1/25 Revell ’68 Firebird 400 Ram Air 2 ‘n 1
(400 V8 engine)
• 1/25 Revell ’66 Pontiac GTO (wheels)
• 1/25 Revell ’69 Dodge Charger Daytona
(tires)
AFTERMARKET PARTS
• 1968 Pontiac GTO detail set, Model Car
Garage (No. 2027)
• 1965-66 Pontiac GTO detail set, Model Car
Garage (No. 2126)
• Holley 4777 carb, Fireball Modelworks (No.
12 The fan belts in most kits appear far too thick. I like to thin the
chunky fan belts with files and sanding sticks. Here, you can see I’ve
already filed the belt on the left and right, and still have the bottom to do.
FMR-093)
Correcting small details always improves a model’s appearance.
13 The completed engine from a Revell ’68 Firebird sports a resin Holley carburetor from Fireball Modelworks. While not correct
for a factory stock Pontiac engine, which came with Rochester carbs, it is a big improvement over the kit’s carb. I finished it
with fuel lines, ignition wiring, and a throttle linkage.
14 The chrome plating on the 50-year-old rear bumper didn’t
look so good. I lightly sanded the bumper and planned to
apply generous amounts of chrome paint from a Molotow pen
15 The grille in my MPC kit had been sloppily painted with flat
black paint. Since the Model Car Garage PE set came with a
grille, I removed the molded grille by sanding it away from the
after I installed it on the car. We’ll see if it works! back side. I then installed the four PE grille pieces and
individual GTO letters with epoxy.
16 I separated the ’60s-era one-piece glass unit with a rotary tool and cutting disc. I cleaned up the edges and sanded the
windows to fit. A black Sharpie helps hide the thick edges of the vent windows. Installing the windows separately makes for a
neater, more realistic appearance.
Sun visors J-B Weld
Dome light
17 I made a dome light and sun visors from scrap styrene. J-B Weld was used under the outer edges of the Oldsmobile cowl to
reinforce the join to the GTO body.
18 Photo-etched metal door handles, window cranks, and steering-wheel spokes detail the interior. I fashioned door armrests
from 1⁄8-inch sheet styrene. The gauges came from Keith Marks Decals.
19 I found photos that showed some ’68 GTOs had tapered

exhaust tips. Over the years, I saved tapered portions of
chrome-plated sprues, and, now, they’re finally handy! I cut two
of the chrome-plated spares to length with a Miter Cut.
20 The completed chassis is a huge improvement over the

original, with articulated steering, separate exhaust, and
a detailed rear end. Different shades of Metalizer paint, brake
21 A scratchbuilt jack, spare tire, and scaled-down MPC 1968
GTO box detail the trunk. I made the inner trunk panel from
sheet styrene to approximate the factory panel. The Molotow
lines and emergency brake cables add to the overall effect. chrome pen improved the rear bumper’s appearance.
FINAL THOUGHTS
I had a lot of fun kitbashing
this GTO, and I’m excited to
update more old kits.
Hopefully, you’ll try your
hand at kitbashing, too.
– Rod Maskiw
22 I went with a chrome air cleaner with a 400-4 decal, even though research showed factory Ram Air-equipped cars had a black
air cleaner. I cut the foam gasket from thin adhesive-backed foam with a compass holding a hobby knife instead of a pencil.
23 In the April 2018 Scale Auto (Page 36), Marcos Cruz demonstrates how to finish a vinyl top. I followed his techniques to
finish my GTO in the rare tan. The hood tachometer and door handles came from a Revell ’68 Firebird kit.
24 How best to finish

my ’68 Goat? With a
sledgehammer, of course! I
made the sledge from a toothpick
and square styrene rod. How could I not
reference the famous commercial
highlighting the tough Enduro bumper?
ONE GREAT MODEL BY CHRIS GASTER
A tough day
at the track
Converted
As a teen, I dated a girl whose father, pickup to 4x4
with a Revell
John, owned a local hobby shop. John Mad Mudder
chassis
and I became good friends, and he
mentored me as a modeler. He was a
huge Mopar fan, and all the models in
this scene — an AMT 1978 Dodge Lil Red Toolbox and
Express pickup, Revell 1967 Sox & Martin assorted tools
Plymouth GTX Super Stock, and Revell
race car trailer — came from him. Of all
my builds, this one was his favorite, and
it has become one of mine, too.
Fully wired 426

Hemi with aluminum
pulleys and power
inverter
Drop-down
center in the
trailer
Scratchbuilt
oxy-acetylene
tanks and
hoses Blown tire
ABOUT
CHRIS
Chris Gaster of
Painesville, Ohio,
started building
models when he
was 12. One
Christmas, he and his cousin
received a truckload of model
kits and stayed up all night
building them. Needless to say,
he’s been hooked ever since!
Photo-etched
metal brakes
Extra transmission,
cooler, diamond-plate
bed, and other
scratchbuilt and
aftermarket details
Scratchbuilt
interior and
window net
Detailed engines in car

and truck bed with
aluminum pulleys
IPMS/USA NATIONALS CHATTANOOGA, TENNESSEE
AUGUST 7, 2019 • BY TIM KIDWELL • PHOTOS BY AARON SKINNER AND MARK SAVAGE
Larry Litoborski modeled

this Tamiya 1/12 scale
Kawasaki Ninja H2R speed
demon. The carbon-fiber decals
came from Studio 27, but the rest of
the build is box stock. To get that
amazing color, Larry airbrushed
House of Kolor kandy organic green
over brass Metalizer. He finished the
frame with Tamiya metallic black.
Ken Mouten converted a Tamiya 1/12 scale Porsche 910

Carrera into a Spyder, and it looks stunning! To pull it off,
Ken had to machine, vacuum-form, and scratchbuild
custom parts. He finished with Tamiya and Model Master
paints and sandblasted the nose for added realism.
No aftermarket. No modifications — except the antenna. That was Peter
Litwinchuk’s goal with his Revell Corvette Stingray. He primed and used
multiple layers of yellow enamel to build up the color without any pre-
shading. The chrome comes from Alclad II.
Rust can be gorgeous, as Jon Fincher skillfully demonstrates with his AMT
1950 Chevy 3100 pickup. He removed and replaced the doors with metal
and dipped their bottom edges in PCB etchant to simulate rust damage. He
base-coated with a rust color, then used hairspray weathering.
This ’69 Camaro is huge! Jim Shepherd took on this 1/12 scale Andy Caldwell nailed Swede Savage’s 1970 Trans Am Barracuda, including
heavyweight from Revell and built it box stock, although he tasty scratchbuilt details such as a 4-in-1 mirror, voltage regulator,
did make houndstooth decals for the seats. Jim finished his ignition box, and seat harness. He used colors from Scale Finishes and
monster muscle car in Tamiya light blue metallic, painted the Gravity Paints, and a burnt umber artist oil wash inside to make the
rally stripes, and polished the topcoat for a deep gloss. details pop.
IPMS/USA NATIONALS
Bill Cunningham designed his 1957 Corvette

XP-87 in Fusion 360 (a CAD program) and then 3D
printed and vacuum-formed the physical parts.
Bill primed with AutoBorne primer; the topcoat is
Pledge Floor Gloss impregnated with aluminum
polishing powder. What a beauty!
“It’s just a semi model,” Michael Mazia says of his Italeri 1/25 scale Rocky Sink finished his 1937 Ford panel truck as an ambulance. He
Ford Aeromax 106. Even if it doesn’t depict a specific long-haul hero, airbrushed Model Master white and Tamiya red for the paint scheme
we like its striking Model Master emerald green finish. over a layer of Tamiya primer.
Not happy with the kit’s stance, Ernest Harmon narrowed and lowered Tom Faletti married a stock Camaro to a NASCAR chassis to build his
the front end on his Tamiya 1966 Volkswagen Beetle. He primed with 1970 Camaro short track stock car. Obviously, this required a lot of
Dupli-Color white lacquer and followed with House of Kolor sunset pearl modification to the body and wheel wells. Tom added the hood scoop
and clear. Ernest says this was a test run for painting his full-size 1963 and rub rails. He painted with colors from Rust-Oleum, Testors, and
V-dub Beetle. Tamiya.
SoCAL OPEN CHATSWORTH, CALIFORNIA
MAY 5, 2019 • BY ART LASKI • PHOTOS BY PAUL MILES
It takes a lot of work to make a new kit look this old! Mark Weitzman achieved this rustic finish on his AMT 1950 Chevy pickup kit with Model
Master SAC bomber green spray paint and weathering. He also added a bunch of scratchbuilt details.
Mike Jordan’s love for Willys inspired him to build this Revell ’41 gasser Ken Cornett started with a Best Model Car Parts resin body and a
in Stone, Woods, and Cook markings. It has a custom pearl blue paint Revell kit to build this ’50 Olds woody. He chopped the top and
job, and the engine is wired. Mike also added a parachute cable for converted it into a two door, then furnished the interior with custom
some extra detail. tuck-and-roll upholstery made from Evergreen plastic.
SoCAL OPEN
Lucas Hunter started with an AMT ’60 Chevy truck but ended up with a
racer. He scratchbuilt the chassis, swapped out the tires and engine,
and wired and plumbed the mill to get the drag-racer look.
Fresh out of the junior ranks, Hugo Maida entered this AMT ‘55 Chevy Seth Gooch’s Revell 1957 Ford Ranch Wagon is anything but stock! Seth
Cameo in the show. He applied a stunningly realistic patina, added a back-halved it, added a four-link rear suspension, and Pro Tech braided
572 big block with custom twin turbos, and installed a custom bed with lines and fittings among a host of other details to get the Pro Street
working tailgate. Hugo joined the big boys and girls with a bang! look he was after.
You wouldn’t know it by looking at this outrageous ’70s van from Jesse Del Pozo’s AMT 1966 Nova sports a House of Kolor black base-
Revell, but this is David Garcia’s first attempt at painting patterns. He coat finish overlaid by an amazing (and scary!) mural of a graveyard
nailed it using House of Kolor paint and added a lot of details, including that surrounds the entire car. Jesse came up with the idea as part of a
a fully custom and lighted interior. club build-off.
The Fast & Furious films inspired Al Camacho to build this AMT Nissan
350Z. He added a chrome suspension and House of Kolor gold pearl
over bittersweet orange.
Seeing custom lowriders in the 1970s inspired Juan Amezcua to build

this JoHan 1978 Cadillac in that same style. He built a custom right-
hand drive dash, added suicide doors, and made a tilting front end.
Juan topped it off with House of Kolor pink.
Gary Curry wanted to get a Mercedes in his display case, so he built This chopped ’32 Ford sedan/tank combination may seem far fetched,
this Tamiya kit out of the box. Even so, it took five days just to get all but Juan Sepulveda was inspired to build this from a real vehicle called
the decals on right! The markings lay over Syndicate Customs silver Major Pain. Of course, he had to scratchbuild the interior and finished
paint and urethane clear. it with Createx colors.
NNL NATIONALS SYLVANIA, OHIO • OCTOBER 12, 2019 • BY TIM KIDWELL
Named Lady Luckless, this rat rod draws its DNA

from builder Paul Payne’s spares box and
aftermarket resin parts. Spray paint and
extensive weathering are the hallmarks of this
build, and Paul says he detailed everything, from
the headers and dual stacks to the interior and
pavement-scraping chassis.
Danny Hammond wanted to model a bracket dragster and began his build with an AMT ’55 Chevy. In went the plumbed and wired straight-six mill.
Then he opened the doors and trunk, detailed the interior, and sat it all on aluminum rims. The nail-polish paint job is a winner all on its own.
This Revell 1949 Mercury from Michael Legault may be a box-stock build, but there’s nothing stock
about its paint job. Michael layered a custom-mixed blue metallic from bumper to bumper and scorched
it with black flames.
The Transformers franchise went old school for Bumblebee when it

cloaked the fan fav in the skin of a ’67 Camaro. Matt Viggiano combined
a Revell kit and a resin conversion from C1 to model Bumblebee,
complete with wheel-well flares and a front-air splitter. That killer
paint is Tamiya semigloss black.
This 1948 Chevy Supercar Slammer comes from the wild imagination of Taking a nod from emerging car culture, Adam Cutler worked for 100
Victor Demichei. Starting with a 1948 Chevy Sedan Delivery, Victor hours on his modified 2013 Mustang GT he calls Urban Stallion. Beyond
re-sculpted the body into a blisteringly fast supercar, while retaining the digital camouflage, Adam hand-sculpted the wide-body flares, cast
many of the telltale traits of its original design. Simply amazing. a resin turbo with hood exhaust, and flocked the interior.
NNL NATIONALS
Rhyon Woods wanted to see how fast he could complete a car, and it Ed Sexton built this Italeri Range Rover Rally in Pacific de Ricard
took him 11 days to model this ’61 Chevy Impala. Even while pushing markings for the Paris-Dakar race. Ed detailed the seats and roll bar
himself, Rhyon found the time to hinge the hood and trunk of this and equipped the Rover with a fire extinguisher. He painted with Tamiya
Lindberg kit. He finished with nail polish and Franklin Decals. colors and topped them with a stunning set of decals.
MCW panther pink sets apart David Dale’s vinyl-top ’70 Dodge Brian Wasmiller had big plans for his Revell ’37 Ford pickup. After
Challenger. The Mopar Rallye resin wheels come from Fireball chopping the top, he tubbed the rear end, lowered the stance, and then
Modelworks. David planted a late-model Hemi up front, and put the went under the hood to wire and plumb the powerplant. Brian
final touches to his build with decals from Firebird Designs. scratchbuilt the grille supports and made the tailgate chains.
Mark Smakal spent 400 hours
modeling this Monogram 1970
Chevy Chevelle. He detailed the
engine, scratchbuilt the nitrous
package, dressed the interior with
seat belts, installed custom tubs
front and back, and finished it all
with Ford garnet red automotive
lacquer and fingernail-polish
graphics.
Bob Halliday started his Bobby Isaac ’69 Charger 500 with an MPC body and an AMT frame. From
there, he modified the body to NASCAR specs, corrected the wheel openings and front grille, and
scratchbuilt or made resin replacements for many interior and exterior details. And in case you
were wondering, that paint is Ford ’65 poppy red, the color used on the real deal. Great job, Bob!
Nine months of resin parts and scratchbuilding

culminated in this amazing GMC Cannonball. Modeler
Steve Hurt machined the wheelsets from steel,
plumbed and wired both the engine and trailer, and
painted with Model Master and Modelflex paint.
Artist oils and pigments weathered the heavy hauler.
The last of
Easy upgrades turn a pair of

Revell 1970 Dodge Chargers
into stunners
by Chuck Kourouklis
S
trange, how marketing Much as the Revell ’62 Corvette sharp, and there are proper torque box
can sometimes compares to its Pro Modeler ’58 reinforcements for the chassis just
overshadow an aspect of predecessor, both of the ’70 Charger ahead of the rear leaf springs — an
a product that would be kits reflect a bit of streamlining and authentic Hemi feature absent from
appealing for many slight simplification relative to the earlier kits.
other reasons. When older Revell 1968 and 1969 Charger The R/T version comes with tampo-
they were released, I tools. Slide-mold technology has printed redline tires and a set of
dutifully picked up a advanced enough over the past 20 Magnum wheels. In my opinion, the
copy of both the 1970 years to allow the instrument panel and tires come off a bit passé for 1970, and
Dodge Charger R/T and the branded dash to come as a single piece, as well the wheels aren’t quite fitting for a
Fast & Furious Dominic’s ’70 Dodge as enable Revell’s current axle-and-pin Hemi. However, the custom wheels
Charger. Revell’s marketing move made wheel mounts. Sadly, no posable from a Revell ’70 Plymouth Hemi Cuda
sense: The ’70 Charger is popular, so steering for either of these models. The or the Rallyes from the older Sox &
why not? Both went into my stash, and kits replicate the same Hemi engine Martin ’70 Cuda look great.
I didn’t give them much more thought. molded to integrate an accurate A833 For the Fast & Furious Charger,
Except, I did think about them. And four-speed transmission, and the you’ll want to file the trim off the wheel
after a while, it hit me: Aside from separate console light lenses from the arches, and thereby obscure some of
producing a kit hitched to the most Pro Modeler-based kits have the shape inaccuracies in that area.
popular movie franchise in Universal disappeared. Otherwise, the body is a smooth, clean
Studios history, Revell had filled a hole But these newer Chargers give a lot reproduction overall. With its rolling
in the car modeling catalog and more than they take away, with only stock, GMC-type blower and one-piece
allowed Mopar fans to build the last one serious (but easily corrected) scoop, and a logo decal for the belt, all
year of the famous second generation stumble in the R/T stock version. The you really need to improve this kit is a
of Chargers. molding on the new parts is clean and street-racer muffler.
a generation
1 Mold lines appear on the body almost exactly where you’d expect them, but there are sneaky ones behind the cowl on each side
and at the C-pillar transitions.
The drum brakes and rear wheels snags come with building models and
need some finessing to fit well, and are not insurmountable. With just a
there are some challenges fitting little massaging, Revell’s ’70 Chargers
everything into the bodies and look great and will help you fill that
eliminating gaps, but you’ll find these gap in your Mopar collection.
2 While you’re sanding away the mold seams, remove the trim
from the wheel arches on the Fast & Furious Charger body —
the car seen in the movies doesn’t have it.
3 To achieve a uniform finish, I like to get as many parts of the
body together as possible before painting. If I had it to do
again, I wouldn’t attach the firewall at this point. It adds a level
of difficulty to the build later.
4 The basic long-block engines are pretty much identical

between the two kits, but the intakes and exhausts differ
substantially. Distributors from Detail Master and spark-plug
5 The R/T comes with redline tires and Magnum wheels.
Instead, I suggest raiding your spares for Rallye wheels and
pair them with tires from the AMT Parts Pack.
wires are an easy upgrade that make these engines race ready.
6 The instructions tell you to apply the main gauges over the
clear faces. Better to place them behind the clear plastic for
a more realistic appearance.
7 The sharp interior engraving makes it easy to apply Bare-
Metal Foil to the trim. Tamiya pointed swabs work
wonderfully to get the foil to lay tight against the plastic.
8 The stock dash looks beautiful under its single decal detailing the wood grain, radio, and ancillary gauges. Just a little decal
setting solution is all that’s needed. For the Fast & Furious Charger, a metallic face is glued to the dash. Simple, but effective.
9 The Fast & Furious car deletes the rear seat and adds a roll
bar with a fire extinguisher. The R/T interior uses the
console piece and sharp-looking wood-grain decals. I modified
10 Without the backseat, you need to paint the floor pan on
the Fast & Furious Charger black before you install it into
the body.
the Fast & Furious pistol-grip to a T-handle.
The decals and clean, crisp

engraving really pay off under the
hood for both cars. Underneath,
you end up with plenty to detail
paint. With just a little extra
effort, you can have a pair of
Chargers to make anyone jealous.
Kits used
• Revell Fast & Furious
Dominic’s 1970 Dodge
Charger (No. 85-4319)
• Revell 1970 Dodge
Charger R/T
(No. 85-4381)
• Detail Master
Distributor, black wire
(No. DM-3201)
KITREVIEWS
Tamiya LEON CVSTOS AMG
Some of the most hotly
contested racing series
around the world feature
FIA GT3 race cars with manufacturers
like Ferrari, Lamborghini, Porsche,
Mercedes-AMG, Acura, Lexus, and
BMW. Thankfully, along with the
racing, we’re getting many of the
contenders in kit form.
Tamiya first issued its
Mercedes-AMG GT3 in
2017, in a rather boring
livery. This new issue
features the striking
satin black scheme of
the LEON CVSTOS
sponsored car that
won the 2018 Japanese
championship and
features spectacular
Cartograf decals.
With the change in markings
come an update in the wheels and
body, too. Most of the parts are molded
in black, and Tamiya’s quality is
outstanding: no flash or sink-marks the same interior structure as the street
and mold lines are virtually invisible. cars. Tamiya captures these details in
The kit also provides die-cut window the floor pan and adds some of the
masks, metal transfers for mirrors and electronics and other race gear to the
badging, and dry transfers to accurately main tub.
letter the tires. The roll cage consists of four parts Kit No.: 24350
This is a curbside kit — no engine — whose locators look like a T rather than Scale: 1/24
but the chassis does offer a little more the typical pin-and-hole variety. The T Mfr.: Tamiya America,
detail than usual. Front and rear joins easily align and create a stronger tamiyausa.com
suspensions build up relatively assembly. Price: $72
complete with upper and lower With all the scoops and ducting in Comments: 132 injection-molded
wishbones, coil-over shock assemblies, race cars these days, it’s necessary to plastic parts (black, gray, clear,
and brake and caliper details. The rear separate the body into several pieces — and chrome plated); four rubber
diffuser strakes are suitably thin. 10 in this case — to mold them tires
Based on production-car chassis, as accurately. But don’t let that scare you: Pros: Incredible decals; flawless
per regulations, GT3 racers have almost The fit is perfect. Most of the body fit; clean molding
parts can be added prior Cons: None
to paint, but the two main
side ducts (parts A20 and
A21) are best left off until greatest concern was the hood where
after paint. Fine nylon several decals must align perfectly with
mesh fills some of the each other. I started with the main
grilles and a template marking (No. 9) and then worked
helps you cut them outward. The way the decals are
correctly. The instructions designed makes fitting them around
have you make the lower curves and alignment simple.
grille from two pieces of I was excited to see this new version
mesh, but, if you fit it on of the AMG GT3 and hope Tamiya has
the diagonal, you can get it plans for more. Several aftermarket
all in one. decal sets are already available. The kit
The livery may look itself was an absolute dream to build,
daunting, but it really isn’t living up to Tamiya’s reputation for
bad if you study the design quality and precision engineering.
and plan accordingly. My – Mike Klessig
Kit No.: 85-4444
Scale: 1/24
Mfr.: Revell, revell.com
Price: $24.95
Comments: 114 injection-molded
plastic parts (white and chrome
plated); four black vinyl tires;
decals
Pros: Updated parts; pad-printed
tires; comprehensive decals
Cons: Vague instruction sheet;
fiddly suspension; fit issues;
decals difficult to use
rolling gear, the model sat squarely on

Revell Joey Saldana IRP sprint car all fours.
The large panel decals for the top
In the fall of 2019 Revell otherwise well-molded and great- wing are oversized, so you’ll have to do
released a modified and looking part. some trimming. Also, I had some
updated version of its The engine includes revised valve trouble getting the left side-panel decal
venerable World of Outlaws sprint car covers and a new intake system with a to settle down without cracking over
kit with decals for the 2017 Indy Race box-style air cleaner. The engine the two wing stiffeners, even with
Parts (IRP) car driven by Joey Saldana. attaches directly to the firewall and fits setting solution and a hair dryer.
Revell has added or replaced many nicely into the frame. The rest of the decals worked fine,
parts from earlier releases, including The intricate suspension requires although they were clingy and difficult
the upper-wing sides, front wing, patience and a steady hand to line up to position once applied to a surface.
driver’s seat, engine intake and exhaust, the many fragile parts. Here, assembly Revell’s Joey Saldana IRP sprint car
and the wheels and tires. The few is made more challenging by the vague builds into a great looking model that
chrome-plated parts that remain are instruction illustrations. Outlaw fans will enjoy, but it’s a
primarily for the suspension. In most cases, the suspension parts challenging build. I would recommend
In all my years of modeling, I’ve aligned well enough, but I drilled the the kit only to experienced builders.
never built a sprint car, and this kit was frame and reinforced some attachment – Terry Jessee
an interesting change of pace. points with plastic rod,
The mold lines on tube frame and particularly on both rear
other round parts need a good deal of trailing arms.
cleanup. The chassis and roll cage are Revell included revised
two large pieces that fit together well, tires with tampo-printed
but the joins require filling and Hoosier markings on the
sanding. sidewalls. I found the wheels
The cockpit contains all the controls and tires would fit together
and a new containment racing seat, but only one way, and that left
no seat belts the printed lettering facing
were molded on the car. Luckily, Revell
the seat or provided decal markings I
driver, nor AS used on the outside of the
provided as a COMPLICATED tire. I also found that despite
decal. With the AS THE my best efforts, there was a
open cockpit SUSPENSION IS, noticeable gap between the
and the racing ONCE IT WAS bead and the outer wheel rim
seat front and on the rear tires. Beadlock
center, it looks ASSEMBLED, rings hide the gap.
odd without a THE MODEL SAT As complicated as the
harness and SQUARELY ON suspension is, once it was
detracts from an ALL FOURS. assembled and I added the
Kit No.: 85-4486
Scale: 1/24
Mfr.: Revell, revell.com
Price: $24.95
parts (white, clear, chrome plated);
four vinyl tires; decals
Pros: Extensive decals; off-road
extras
Cons: No carburetor
seem a bit plain with just the interior

1976 Chevy Sport Stepside Pickup 4X4 tub, dashboard, steering column, and
steering wheel. The kit does include an
Third-generation GM plated valve covers. However, it doesn’t optional CB. But the decals transform
trucks have been referred to have a carburetor; the air cleaner just the interior with wood grain for the
as “square body” trucks for sits on top of the manifold. It’s a simple dash, as well as vent and gauge details.
years. This new design with added aftermarket fix. The door panels get the wood-grain
safety features came in Fleetside or The chassis has dual fuel tanks and treatment, too, along with door handles
Stepside models known as the C/K line. an exhaust system cleverly designed to and window cranks. Seat belt decals are
I owned the two-wheel-drive version — look like separate parts. The front and also provided. Nice touch!
and wish I still owned it today! rear leaf springs are molded to the A few mold lines in the fenders and
The kit instructions are easy to axles, but the stabilizer and torsion bars the roof of the cab needed to be cleaned
follow, give you plenty of information are separate. The wheels and tires have up. And the underside of the hood has
on the real truck, and suggest paint a distinct ’70s a few ejector-pin marks that you’ll need
colors. Part names and numbers make off-road look, to fill.
each step easy to understand. You’ll also and the stance is THE DECALS Six parts comprise the box and bed,
notice a decal sheet with a ton of completed with TRANSFORM which I assembled before painting.
options. Chrome and clear parts come eight shocks and You’ll need to decide right away if you
bagged separately. a monstrous THE INTERIOR want to use the optional roll bar. Drill
The classic small-block engine front skid plate. WITH WOOD the locator holes for the roll bar
(nicely detailed for the kit’s age) comes At first, the GRAIN FOR THE indicated on the underside of the
with a choice of chrome-plated or non- interior may DASH. pickup bed. Doing so removes any
guesswork regarding installation.
I placed the wood bed decals after
painting the box, even though the
instructions tell you to wait until the
final step. Once the decals were down, I
installed the roll bar and the antenna.
Test-fit the mounting position before
gluing the box to the chassis because
the instructions are a bit vague. I added
the spare tire carrier and gas can to the
tailgate.
Assembling the grille and headlights
are straight forward, and mounting the
cab to the chassis was smooth going. A
brush bar up front, cool body decals,
and side mirrors finish off this
incredible 4x4 beauty.
If you’re into off-road trucks, this kit
is a must-build for your collection.
– Tom Nowak
Revell 1970 Plymouth AAR ’Cuda
The A-body Plymouth a platform that includes the body-
Barracuda was introduced colored engine bay. This should be
to the pony car market in masked and painted before assembling
1964 and shared a vast number of parts the interior. The decals that represent
with the Plymouth Valiant. In 1970, the gauges are housed under a clear
Plymouth cut all ties to the Valiant panel. Such a nice touch from Revell!
A-body platform with the introduction After completing the interior, I
of the new E-body which the AAR (All finished the engine bay with the
American Racing) ’Cuda is based on. radiator support, battery, and master Kit No.: 85-4416
All the kit parts are bagged, with the cylinder. Scale: 1/25
tires and chrome and clear parts parked I painted the body and applied the Mfr.: Revell, revell.com
in individual bags. A sheet of superb iconic AAR “strobe stripe” down the Price: $24.99
decals and a comprehensive instruction sides. The decal sheet also includes a Comments: 143 injection-molded
booklet round out the contents. small Chrysler badge for the passenger- parts (white, clear, chrome plated);
The 23-piece 340 cid V8 engine and side fender and decals for side markers. four vinyl tires; decals
six-pack carburetor assembled without Be aware, the taillights come chrome Pros: Excellent fit and finish; great
any hitches. After removing some plated. The instructions recommend decals
minor seams and minimal flash, the painting them flat white, flat black, and Cons: Unbranded tires; wheels
built-up mill represents the mighty clear red. I cut white and red decals need a lot of cleanup
small block well. from my spares to represent the lenses.
Steps 6 and 7 want you to start on The interior needed a little
the chassis. I deviated and moved to the persuasion to squeeze into the body. For reviews, I usually don’t substitute
interior. The 16-piece interior builds off But, once in, it fits quite well. parts, but I used the AMT Goodyear
Turning to the chassis, I attached the Polyglas GT Parts Pack (No.
engine, radiator, and shroud. The rear AMTPP006) even though they
end consists of seven parts and builds represent tires one size larger than used
into a heavy-duty Dana suspension on the real car. Fireball Modelworks
usually to be found on the Hemi ’Cuda, offers properly sized and marked tires
not the AAR. A minor concession by for the AAR.
Revell in the scheme of things. The wheels in my sample were
After building the front suspension loaded with flash and needed work for
and unusual reversed exhaust, the a good presentation.
chassis fits into the body. Take your The grille doesn’t have the exclusive
time — it does fit. The rear valance AAR ’Cuda silver boxes, which was a
finishes off the chassis installation. bit disappointing. Mirrors, driving
Unfortunately, I was let down by the lights, and the AAR’s “air grabber” hood
kit’s wheels and tires. The AAR ’Cuda rounded out this beautiful Mopar.
ran Goodyear Polyglas GTs: E60-15 up If you’re a Mopar fan, you must have
front and G60-15 in back. The tires in this kit. With minor corrections, you
the kit are unbranded black walls that can have a great model of this muscle-
detract from the overall look of the car legend.
model. – Tom Valenta
Kit No.: AMT1128/M12
Scale: 1/25
Mfr.: Round 2, round2corp.com
Price: $29.99
parts (white, clear, chrome plated);
four vinyl tires; decals
Pros: Unusual subject; excellent
AMT 1978 Subaru Brat decals; crisp molding
Cons: Fit issues; no tampo-printed
The 1/25 scale AMT 1978 single-piece exhaust. The front tires, spare tire, or clear light
Subaru Brat was originally suspension consists of struts, rack and lenses
released in 1979, and pinion steering, and a tie-rod assembly.
Round 2 is finally reissuing the kit with Front brake rotors and calipers are
a few improvements to take advantage molded as a single part. together. I painted the raised letters on
of a market thirsty for more unusual I found the rear suspension the tires with white acrylic paint.
’70s vehicles. challenging to assemble. The driveshaft, The one-piece body takes the usual
The basic instruction sheet lists 16 differential, and half-shafts are molded amount of cleanup, but I suggest a light
assembly steps, but includes no as one unit, as are the U-shaped trailing primer coat to make the mold lines
suggestions for paint. arms and axle stubs. The half-shafts easier to find. The front fender points
The kit reproduces the Brat’s 1.6-liter were not long enough to reach the axle curved away from the hood instead of
four-cylinder engine, along with the stubs. I solved the problem by inserting remaining parallel. I corrected this with
transmission and front axles, in eight spacers into the gaps. superglue and filler.
parts. The engine compartment is The vinyl tires are hollow and flimsy, The interior and bed come as a single
molded as part of the body, and so I filled them with tissue paper to give tub unit and was slightly too wide to fit
includes a washer reservoir, jack, and them some bulk. into the body. I made one vertical slice
wiper motor. The radiator and master Assembled, the in the firewall with a razor saw and the
cylinder are separate parts; no radiator wheels are too THE DECAL tub fit perfectly.
hoses are included. The spare tire was wide for the SHEET IS NEW The windshield and rear glass install
mounted horizontally under the hood tires. I removed FOR THIS from the inside and required some
at the rear of the engine on the real ⅓2 and 1⁄16 inch RELEASE AND sanding for a good fit. The jump seats
vehicle, but it isn’t represented on the from the inner with their grab handles are supplied,
model. and outer wheel OFFERS A along with an optional three-piece roll
AMT did a good job detailing the halves, VARIETY OF bar. Assemble the roll bar on the model
Brat’s underside. The subframes are respectively, EXTERIOR so you can adjust it as the glue dries.
molded to the floor pan with a separate then glued them MARKINGS. The tailgate is meant to be movable,
but I glued mine in place to strengthen
the bed and make mounting the
taillights easier. I attached the front
valance, but not the rear, before
inserting the chassis. Make sure to drill
and pin the two exterior mirrors.
The decal sheet is new for this release
and offers a variety of exterior
markings. It also includes decals for the
instrument cluster and license plates.
Some of the smaller decals are
duplicated to give you a second chance,
if you need it.
The Brat was a challenging build and
not for novices. With patience and a
little knowhow, it builds into an
impressive model of a unique vehicle.
– Al Hoffman
Revell Germany
Porsche 934 RSR ‘Martini’
Revell Germany initially Four parts molded in black styrene
released its Porsche 934 must be painted white to match the
RSR kit in 2017 with body, including the front bumper and
Jägermeister markings, and followed up the lower portion of the dash. Black
with a Vaillant scheme in 2018. Now styrene can often bleed through light-
Revell has issued the car in the popular colored paint like white, so make sure Kit No.: 07685
Martini scheme. to prime it before painting. Scale: 1/24
My first order of business when The interior consists of a platform Mfr.: Revell Germany, revell.de
opening a new kit is to with separate side panels, Price: $35
inspect the body and exterior dashboard, and roll cage. Comments: 104 injection-molded
panels. The Porsche’s smooth, The armrests are nicely plastic parts (white, black, silver,
white styrene body has only THE PORSCHE’S engraved and attention clear, and chrome plated); four
minor mold lines that require SMOOTH, grabbing. black vinyl tires; decals
a bit of cleanup. However, the WHITE A soak in oven cleaner Pros: Subassemblies fit well;
panel lines for the doors are a STYRENE BODY removed the chrome realistic tires
bit soft for my liking. The HAS ONLY plating from the headlight Cons: Soft panel lines; colored
hinged whale tail opens to bezels, a dash-mounted parts complicate painting
expose the detailed engine, MINOR MOLD valve, a fuel switch, and a
and the hood lifts off to reveal LINES THAT pressure release tube, all
the battery and fuel cell REQUIRE A BIT of which needed to be placement. Regardless, they are unique
molded in place. OF CLEANUP. painted something other to each corner of the car, so double
than chrome. check before applying.
I scuffed the surface of Joining the body, interior bucket, and
the excellent tires with a chassis was a memorable moment in
180-grit sanding stick. The the build. First, the interior assembly
kit includes white-lettered mated to the body with six attachment
Avon decals for the points and fit like a glove. Next, the
smooth sidewalls. chassis fell in place, so much so that I
Speaking of the decals, was a little concerned about if and how
these are user-friendly and it would attach. Lastly, I secured the
fit without drama. I had a front bumper and spoiler, which
slight issue with four cleverly locked the chassis in place.
decals that signify the Revell lists the Porsche 934 RSR as a
beginnings of the fender Level 3 kit, and I agree in terms of how
flares (nos. 7, 14, 61, and easily it assembles. But due to the skill
70). Either they are required to mask and paint the
wrongly indicated in the windows, bumpers, and the iconic
instruction booklet, or I whale tail, I would recommend it to
jumbled them out of order more advanced modelers.
during cutting and – Jeff Bloomhuff
Alpha Models Ferrari 812 Superfast
Introduced at the 2017 castings I’ve ever seen. The biggest job
Geneva Motor Show, the was removing the pour stubs; flash was
812 Superfast replaced almost nonexistent and not a single
Ferrari’s F12. The 812 continues the pinhole to fill.
tradition of front-engine GTs featuring Before you build the interior, search
a 6.5-liter V12 producing 789 the internet for reference photos; there Kit No.: AM02-0008
horsepower and advanced seem to be endless trim options Scale: 1/24
aerodynamics to decrease drag while available. (I like to use eBay Motors to Mfr.: Alpha Models,
increasing downforce. With a top speed find detail shots.) facebook.com/reindetailparts
of 211 mph, it lives up to its name. The interior starts with a basic tub, Price: $150
Alpha Models’ Superfast multimedia separate door panels, and door pull Comments: Resin (cream and
kit is a beauty, just like the real car! The handles. Seat bottoms are different for clear); photo-etched metal; metal
major components are exquisitely cast driver and passenger, and there are transfers; decals
in cream-colored resin, and the rest of even pieces for the seat-belt receptacles. Pros: Popular subject;
the details are handled by five photo- The PE frets supply pedals, footrests, immaculately molded resin; fine
etched (PE) metal frets, metal transfers, luggage straps, and floor mats. Even the details
and a small decal sheet. air conditioning vents for the dash are Cons: Fiddly brake calipers
The instructions are a bit simplified individual pieces. The only fault I found
with a couple of exploded-view was the lack of a Cavallino decal for the
drawings to give you a rough idea of steering wheel. flush to the sides of the stub axles.
what goes where accompanied by a few A resin core faced with PE metal You’ll need to enlarge the center holes
reference photos. Being a curbside make the brake discs and fit together just slightly for the wheel shaft to fit.
model, the parts count isn’t terribly easily enough. On the other hand, the And make sure to get the wheels
high, and construction is superbly detailed calipers take more correct, because they are different for
straightforward. work. The mounting lugs are supposed the left and right sides.
Resin kits always require cleanup. to fit into slots in the stub axles, but the Along with the advanced
But the 812 must be one of the cleanest slots aren’t deep enough. I cut the lugs aerodynamics, ducts and channels
control the airflow through and around
the body; each one of these gets a fine
mesh screen — some quite small.
Thankfully, every one fit perfectly in its
intended location.
The windows are precut and
preprinted with black borders
eliminating the normally tedious task of
trimming vacuum-formed parts.
This was my first Alpha Models kit,
and I must say I’m quite impressed.
Resin kits usually have some challenges
during the build, but the Ferrari 812
Superfast was practically trouble free.
The boutique price may cause sticker
shock, but those who take the plunge
won’t be disappointed.
– Mike Klessig
Kit No.: 14134
Scale: 1/12
Mfr.: Tamiya America,
tamiyausa.com
Price: $36
plastic parts (white, black, gray,
clear, and chrome plated); two soft
rubber tires; one rubber seat;
flexible tubing
Pros: Outstanding molding and fit;
paint masks
Cons: Rubber seat; no wheel
stand
Tamiya Honda Monkey 125

I have always loved Tamiya The instructions show to hand-paint As you’d expect, when it’s built, the
kits, especially its the white pinstripe to simulate the bead Monkey 125 isn’t terribly big, even at
motorcycles, and couldn’t around the top of the seat cushion. That 1/12 scale. But it is massive in its detail
wait for the new Honda Monkey 125. was beyond my ability to do and have it and certainly draws the eye, partly
The parts in the box didn’t disappoint turn out. Instead, I tried to mask the because of its diminutive size and partly
with cleanly molded parts and sharp, seat, but no tape I used (including because of the superb details.
accurate details. Tamiya!) would stick. If you’re considering building a
I painted the parts before assembly. Finally, I coated the seat with clear motorcycle but aren’t sure you want to
The instructions offer diagrams for four gloss and cut narrow strips from spare dive into one of the more complicated
schemes; I settled on the factory two- white decals and applied them to make and expensive kits on the market, or if
tone red (TS-95) and white (TS-26). the bead. At the same time, I placed the you’re looking for a change of pace,
The kit provides a mask to help paint Honda decal on the back of the seat — Tamiya’s Monkey 125 would fit the bill.
the two-tone design on the gas tank. there’s no way it would have adhered to – Aaron Thomas
Assembly was anything but the bare rubber.
complicated and all the parts fit well. I After letting the
did have to go back and scrape some decals dry overnight, I
paint off edges — the fit is so good that sprayed a coat of flat
even a little paint can foul it. clear on the seat to seal
Be warned, the kit contains many the markings.
chrome parts, so you’ll spend a good Admitedly, my white
amount of time scraping for clean stripe isn’t perfect, but a
plastic to glue. Some of the decal is a good
measurements provided for cutting the alternative to painting
tubing for hoses are a little long. Test-fit it, and I’d handle it the
and trim the tube by a few millimeters same way if I had the
to do the trick. build to do again.
Tamiya I wish Tamiya had
molded the seat I COATED THE provided a wheel stand
in soft rubber, SEAT WITH for the Monkey like it
probably for a CLEAR GLOSS does for its Moto GP
more realistic AND CUT motorcycle kits. The
appearance and NARROW only thing that keeps
feel. However, a the Monkey upright is a
plastic seat and STRIPS FROM thin, fragile kickstand
flat black paint SPARE WHITE that I’m afraid I might
would have DECALS AND one day accidentally
served as well. APPLIED THEM. snap off.
PERFECT POLICE
CRUISERS
A late-80s Crown Victoria and 1978 Nova offer options to fans of cop cars
by Terry Jessee
The resin aftermarket for model car builders has A NEW MONTHLY
been running strong for more than 35 years. DIGITAL FEATURE!
Admittedly, early resin casters at times offered some Visit ScaleAutoMag.com to
ugly products, but high-quality resin parts came into read more “Resin Roundup”
their own with manufacturers like Replicas & Miniatures by Terry Jessee and discover
all the resin kits and parts
Co. of Maryland, All-American Models, and the you’ve been missing out on!
Modelhaus, who helped legitimize the resin market and
set the standard for quality.
Although All-American Models and the Modelhaus are no longer in business, other small companies
have emerged to fill the gaps in the resin market, producing models, conversion kits, and upgrade
parts that provide you with a vast array of alternatives to mainstream plastic kits.
This time around, let’s open up a couple of recent offerings from a company called Mastercaster.
formed glass, chassis, wheels, wheel of fragile components breaking

1988-91 FORD CROWN backs, hubcaps, soft resin tires, during shipping.
VICTORIA bumpers, grille, side mirrors, and head I plan to model a California Highway
Price: $110 and taillights. It comes with two Patrol cruiser with this kit. CHP used
complete interiors (dash, side panels, full wheel covers on Crown Vics of
and steering wheels and columns) that this era, so I’ve commandeered wheels
Greg Wann at Mastercaster has been allow you to build the year you prefer. and tires from a Lindberg ’96
offering car bodies and other parts The chassis appears to be based on a Crown Victoria.
for several years. Across the hobby, modified Lindberg Crown Vic chassis. Overall, this is a sharp kit and is as
Mastercaster products have been No chrome-plated parts. complete as any produced by
well received. The parts display no significant Modelhaus — more so. As with other
Mastered by police car modeler bubbles or deformations but be prepared resin kits, some additional cleanup may
Dwayne Larriviere, this Crown Victoria to clean flash out of the window and be required, but it’s minimal in this
kit includes a body, full interior, hood openings. Mastercaster leaves case. And the price falls in line with
separate hood, front fascia, vacuum- the flash in place to reduce the chances other short-run resin kits.
machine. Fortunately, the MPC kit can up the detail on the front panels
CHEVROLET NOVA includes stock parts, so building a with styrene strip. The dash, front seat,
FOUR-DOOR SEDAN ’78 Nova sedan makes for an and steering wheel look excellent.
Price: $75 easy conversion. The chassis from the MPC ’79 Nova
The transkit includes a body, hood, drops right in. I’ve been asked about
1978 grille, bumpers, taillights, outer using the AMT Nova, but the MPC kit
Chevrolet began to experiment with wheels, and hubcaps. As with the is the better choice because it makes
down-sized police package sedans in Crown Victoria, no parts are plated. for less work.
the mid-70s. Using the Nova platform, Because the Squad Rod kit offers two Like the Mastercaster Crown
they added heavy-duty components differently sized tires, you’ll probably Victoria, the parts in this transkit are
and a 350 V8 to produce a car that was need to source a set of four that are the nicely produced. I’m impressed with
both durable and quick. Sheriff same size. I recommend using the the parts fit and how the car sits
departments in Los Angeles and San AMT Goodyear Polyglas GT Tires overall. For cop car modelers, this kit
Diego were among many agencies that Parts Pack (No. AMTPP006). is a must have.
used the Nova for patrol duties. The Mastercaster Nova sedan body
Another mold from Dwayne holds up to the full-size car, and
Larriviere, Mastercaster’s Nova transkit Dwayne worked hard to get the For more information about
is for use with the MPC ’79 Chevy detailing just right for the interior Mastercaster and a complete
Nova coupe. The most recent iteration back-door panels. However, the product listing, contact Greg
of this kit is the MPC Squad Rod (No. interior panels for the front doors aren’t Wann at mastercaster1@cox.net.
MPC851), an ersatz police car street quite as good. If you’re inclined, you
Marketplace 7561/37#&5
1&'.5$;10;
New and bigger selections
Your Police Headquarters for Parts & Accessories
VISIT US AT www.customsquads.com
FOR MORE INFO, SEND $2.00 REFUNDABLE WITH ORDER. CUSTOM SQUADS—
MODELS BY TONY, DEPT. SAE, 1226 CHERRY ST., SO. PLAINFIELD, NJ 07080
just Flock It!

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MCW AUTOMOTIVE FINISHES

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CLASSIC KITS
REVELL GERMANY
BMW 850i
A premium kit for a premium car
by Tim Boyd
Fujimi introduced its 1/24 The hideaway headlamps rotate, the

headrests adjust, and the hood and
scale Enthusiast Series in the REVELL GERMANY trunk open. The 200-plus parts are
mid-1980s. In the December PREMIUM BMW 850i molded in three colors along with
2014 “Classic Kits” column, I Kit No. 7183 chrome plating, and each parts tree
noted that the “Enthusiast Introduced: 1990; never reissued in come individually packaged. License
this form plates for 10 countries (but not the
Series proved that the model Present Value: $70+ U.S.) are replicated on the decal sheet,
car world was ready for a series along with 24 other interior, exterior,
of premium-priced biscale kits and under-hood graphics.
that would set a benchmark for replaced the previous six-cylinder Revell Germany later modified the
engine. The new E31 8 Series cars base tooling to replicate two
the hobby.” would last through 1999, to be replaced aftermarket offerings: an Alpina coupe
Just a few years later, Car Modeler by a lineup wearing the prior 6 Series and a Monte Carlo convertible.
magazine columnist and kit reviewer badging. Regrettably, the kit was never reissued
Larry Greenberg commented that Upon opening the visually appealing in this form, although another coupe
Revell Germany, with its Premium box and examining its contents, the production run was reportedly
BMW 850i kit, had “taken Fujimi’s idea extent of Revell Germany’s Premium marketed under Tamiya branding.
of an Enthusiast Model and refined it remit becomes evident: All the engine Greenberg concluded his 1991
even further” (“Strictly Stock”, March fan-belt accessories have mounting review saying the Premium BMW 850i
1991). New in 1990, the kit’s MSRP was brackets; the front and rear suspension- was “a magnificent kit in all respects.”
$50. That’s $95 today! assemblies comprise 16 and 23 separate Thirty years later, his assessment still
BMW’s all-new 1990 850i coupe was parts, respectively; the console builds rings true. The BMW 850i has become
a great subject for a Revell Germany up from seven parts; triangulated a rare and desirable kit, and asking
Premium kit. The 850i replaced the engine mounts are molded prices reflect as much. When kits do
much-loved 1976-1989 E24 6 Series individually; and the comprehensive appear for sale, they are often located
cars. Beyond the all-new two-door exhaust system is replicated with 16 in Europe, so make sure to budget for
body with hideaway headlights, a V12 components. overseas shipping.
FINISH LINE BY TIM BOYD /// PHOTOS BY TIM KIDWELL
NNL Nationals:
The Final Homecoming
A
t the final NNL Nationals and National Champion Chuck Helppie
the associated 40th spearheaded two additional 40th
anniversary celebration events anniversary events. On Friday, a
in Toledo, Ohio, Oct. 11-12, banquet featured Rich Morgan, Denny
2019, the sentiment voiced most often Johnson, and Tim Slesak, celebrated
ARO
was: “It’s the most fun we’ve ever had participants in the Revell-Testors and
AM CAM
S- LE
with model cars.” MPC National Model Car LE TRAN 1992 SCA
A
12 SC JUNE ..
After deciding the 40th NNL Championships as they recalled their
DER R’S 1/ OF THE L WINNER
NDY VE R GS
Nationals would be the last “Nats,” the time building for those competitions RA E CO ALSO A
E TH
Cleveland Automotive Modelers and car modeling events pre-NNL. MAD AND WAS
Society (the long-time host club for the Five NNL co-founders — Chuck AUTO
event) got the word out to the larger Helppie, Tom Woodruff, Bob Bost,
model-car community that the show Andy Martin, and I — discussed the
would be a “homecoming” for history and philosophy of this very
everyone who had participated in the different type of gathering of the
event during its decades-long history. nation’s best model car builders:
It organized an event that was both a Instead of modelers competing against
remembrance of all those great meets each other, NNL shows would promote
past, while still celebrating the models the sharing of ideas and projects,
and participants of the 2019 show. building friendships, and, most
With more than1,000 models and importantly, having fun.
350 modelers from the U.S. and Lastly, representatives from several
beyond making the homecoming trip, of the largest NNL events, including
the atmosphere harkened back to the Tom Geiger, Roy Sorenson, Rick
early years when the NNL Nationals Forrester, and Jim Kampmann spoke
was one of only two events of its type about why they thought the NNL
and often attracted participants from phenomenon has caught on and spread E!
around the world. around the world. S, SO LITTLE TIM
R
COVER CA
NNL Nationals co-founder and Saturday night, after the final show, SO MANY
1977 MPC National Model Car an informal gathering collected the
Contest Grand largest-ever display of model cars
featured on magazine covers, as well as
many of their builders. The
International Model Car Builders
Museum transported its most
important historic modeling treasures
to the event. And just like the earliest
days of the NNL Nationals, participants
stayed late and jawed with each other
while ogling the latest model projects
and some of the most important model
cars in NNL history.
While NNL Nationals participants
share sadness at the end of a great run,
we’re comforted the original NNL
concept of emphasizing friendships
and the enjoyment of car modeling
SL ING
instead of competition lives on in many
F THE G NCLUD
MODELER SO S, I AR,
SG of the NNL-type events occurring NER SERIE INDY C
CELEBRAT ATHERED SATURDA IN
E Y
MEMORIE 40 YEARS OF CAMA NIGHT TO every year. As Tom Woodruff recently Y W SHIP OW
S, AND SCA RADERIE, MANMPION ’S YELL ICKY.
Y V
CHA BERR ANO’S
LE MODEL said to me, “Thanks to what we all
ING! E C
collectively started, thousands of DAV IE HIS
modelers all over the world also have AUG
great memories and new friendships.”
Scale Auto (ISSN: 0195-217X, USPS:493-550) is published bimonthly by Kalmbach Media Co., 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612. Periodicals postage paid at Waukesha,
Wis,. and additional offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to Scale Auto, PO Box 8520, Big Sandy, TX 75755. Canada Publication Mail Agreement # 40010760.
1/24
Item No. 24351
NEW 2019 TOYOTA SUPRA FEATURES

• Features a realistic interior depic-
This 1/24 scale model assembly kit tion, with separate white parts
recreates the NEW 2019 Toy- for red sections, plus multi-part
ota Supra. Upon its global center console and dashboard,
announcement in January and seats with separate headrest
2019, the TOYOTA GR components.
Supra created a worldwide • Can be assembled as Japan, U.S. or Europe spec,
buzz. Designed with beautiful bal- with dedicated left- and right-hand drive part positions.
ance, it provides superlative handling • A detailed underside shows off the exhaust system, plus multi-part
and stable corners, while the sensu- front and rear suspension.
ous long nose, short deck form has a • Features the 19-inch wheels exclusive to the top grade RZ car in Japan.
striking double-bubble roof. Com- They are two-part designs with separate metal-plated and black com-
bined with impeccable power from a ponents. Tires have realistic tread.
turbocharged inline-six or inline-four • Includes metal transfers, plus paint masking stickers for window areas.
engine, the GR Supra is set to define
the next generation of performance.
FOLLOW US ON
TamiyaUSA TamiyaUSA TamiyaUSA TamiyaAmerica
Tamiya America, Inc. 36 Discovery, Ste 200, Irvine, CA 92618 (800) 826-4922 www.tamiyausa.com

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UPGRADE THESE STUNNERS

MAKE REVELL’S 1970 DODGE CHARGERS POP p.42

JUMP INTO “DYNO” DON‘S

SHOW GALLERY BONANZA

p.35 p.32 p.38

Hit the dirt with 2 new AMT Modiﬁed Stockers!

s Pre-lettered “stenciled” Goodyear tires s New expanded Impala decals

THE TRICK TRIKES

SEE OUR FULL PRODUCT LINE-UP AT ROUND2CORP.COM!

FEATURES NEW KIT REVIEWS

• Tamiya LEON CVSTOS AMG

32 SHOW COVERAGE • Tamiya Honda Monkey 125

We Are the Champions

Scale Auto (ISSN: 0195-217X) is published bimonthly by Kalmbach

ANY ORDER* you place at

View Complete Catalog of Models, Parts

AUTO WORLD STORE The All-New

Amazing Model Kits in Every Category!

1/24 Scale Kits Books

We specialize in Out-of Production

Check with your local hobby

Q I’m converting two different cars

TWO MORE WHEEL QUESTIONS

A That’s a good question, Jim, and one we might not

• Some kits have flash on the parts

• Microwave-safe snack and side-

Andy Kellock pulled parts

Kitbash two Revell kits to

ack in the day, modelers might

7 In back, I aligned the centerline of the FG’s axle mounting

9 I removed part of the front crossmember. At this point, I

11 With the Y-block as a guide, I aligned the new crossmembers,

Reshaped X-member parts

13 The bottom of the FC chassis X-frame (Part 67) had to be

17 To save finishing with chrome later and allow more

22 Inside, I used the bucket seats and FC side

21 While I thought about the seats, I separated the plated FC instrument

Aftermarket traction bars

Kit traction bars

24 The tubular front axle, stout post-World War II rear

26 To avoid more modifications to the suspension, I installed

30 To accommodate the over-the-frame headers, I removed

Mounting flanges 1933 Willys push bar Fuel-tank crossmember

Stock grille 1940 Willys push bar

35 This engine compartment looks like it was designed for a

F scale ’68 Pontiac GTO on my shelf,

1 I set aside the MPC ’68 GTO chassis in favor of an AMT/Ertl

5 An assortment of files and sanding sticks helped me remove

7 The wheel wells on the ’69 Oldsmobile chassis were

9 Of course, after painting, I discovered the Oldsmobile’s passenger-side exhaust

Correcting small details always improves a model’s appearance.

Sun visors J-B Weld

19 I found photos that showed some ’68 GTOs had tapered

20 The completed chassis is a huge improvement over the

24 How best to finish

Fully wired 426

Detailed engines in car

Larry Litoborski modeled

Ken Mouten converted a Tamiya 1/12 scale Porsche 910

Bill Cunningham designed his 1957 Corvette