COSMOS-standard Cosmetics Organic and Natural Standard: Version 3.0 - 1 September 2018
COSMOS-standard Cosmetics Organic and Natural Standard: Version 3.0 - 1 September 2018
COSMOS-standard Cosmetics Organic and Natural Standard: Version 3.0 - 1 September 2018
Table of Contents
1. INTRODUCTION .............................................................................................. 3
1.1 Main objectives of COSMOS-standard ............................................................ 3
1.2 Documents ................................................................................................ 4
2. REGULATIONS ................................................................................................ 5
3. SCOPE ........................................................................................................... 5
4. DEFINITIONS ................................................................................................. 6
5. GENERAL ....................................................................................................... 9
5.1 Precautionary principle .............................................................................. 9
5.2 Animal testing .......................................................................................... 9
5.3 Sustainability ........................................................................................... 9
6. ORIGIN AND PROCESSING OF INGREDIENTS ................................................... 10
6.1 Ingredients categories ............................................................................. 10
6.2 Calculation rules for organic percentage ..................................................... 13
7. COMPOSITION OF TOTAL PRODUCT ................................................................ 16
7.1 Rules for cosmetic products under organic certification ................................ 16
7.2 Rules for cosmetic products under natural certification ................................ 17
7.3 Calculation rules for natural origin percentage ............................................ 17
7.4 Palm oil, palm kernel oil and derivatives .................................................... 17
8. STORAGE, MANUFACTURING AND PACKAGING ................................................. 19
8.1 Storage ................................................................................................. 19
8.2 Manufacturing ........................................................................................ 19
8.3 Packaging .............................................................................................. 19
8.4 Fabrics .................................................................................................. 20
9. ENVIRONMENTAL MANAGEMENT ..................................................................... 21
9.1 Environmental management plan .............................................................. 21
9.2 Cleaning and hygiene .............................................................................. 21
10. LABELLING AND COMMUNICATION .................................................................. 23
10.1 General rules .......................................................................................... 23
10.2 For products under organic certification ..................................................... 23
10.3 For products under natural certification ..................................................... 24
10.4 For ingredients with organic content .......................................................... 24
10.5 For raw materials with no organic content .................................................. 25
10.6 Supporting literature ............................................................................... 25
10.7 Organic in the name of a company or product range ................................... 25
10.8 Use of the signature, name or term related to this Standard ........................ 25
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APPENDICES....................................................................................................... 28
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1. INTRODUCTION
This Standard has been developed at the European and international level by BDIH
(Germany), COSMEBIO & ECOCERT (France), ICEA (Italy) and SOIL ASSOCIATION (UK)
who are the founders of the COSMOS-standard AISBL (an international non-profit
association registered in Belgium) in order to define common requirements and definitions
for organic and/or natural cosmetics.
To stimulate processes for sustainable production and consumption, the organic and
natural cosmetics sector is using some simple rules governed by the principles of
prevention and safety at all levels of the chain from production of raw materials to the
distribution of finished products.
• promoting the use of products from organic agriculture, and respecting biodiversity
• using natural resources responsibly, and respecting the environment
• using processing and manufacturing that are clean and respectful of human health
and the environment
• integrating and developing the concept of "Green Chemistry".
This last point, a new aspect of the COSMOS-standard is key to the success of this ambition
considering the specificities and constraints of the formulation of cosmetic products
(particularly versus food products).
With this "green philosophy" and this desire to actively contribute to sustainable
development, the cosmetics sector is committed to define and implement a standard for
organic and natural cosmetics. This Standard takes into account the current technological
reality while infusing a dynamism that will lead to innovative developments.
1. water – vital and basic raw material in product development; its quality is essential;
2. mineral ingredients – interesting and necessary, but not renewable; they require clear
environmental rules in their use, and in further processing;
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The COSMOS-standard's ultimate objective is to address the major issues essential to the
environment and welfare of man on the planet. For practical purposes, it aims to ensure
the transition between today’s and tomorrow’s possibilities of technological advances to
promote the development of cosmetics ever more natural and organic. This is necessary
for the respect of consumers who must be informed clearly and transparently so that they
can themselves be actors for sustainable development.
1.2 Documents
1.2.1 Documents
The Scheme Documents are the:
• COSMOS-standard,
• COSMOS Technical Guide which contains additional interpretation and explanation,
• COSMOS Labelling Guide,
• COSMOS Control Manual – Certification and Accreditation Requirements.
1.2.2 Copyright
This Standard is the property of the COSMOS-standard AISBL and shall not be copied,
reproduced or otherwise used except with its express written permission.
1.2.3 Revision
The organic and natural cosmetics sector is still developing and both technology and
understanding are advancing. The COSMOS-standard will therefore be subject to periodic
review and amendment in line with the objectives above, taking into account availability
of ingredients and technology, and after full and open consultation with stakeholders.
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2. REGULATIONS
The users of this Standard are expected to comply with all relevant legislation, including
The EU Regulation on cosmetic products (EC No. 1223/2009) as amended, The EU REACH
REGULATION (EC No. 1907/2006), Commission Regulation on claims in cosmetic products
(EU No. 655/2013), and/or other local or national laws concerning cosmetic products
where appropriate.
The regulations of this Standard for natural and organic products are in line with the legal
framework of a large number of countries but without prejudice to additional legal
provisions that might exist in some other countries.
3. SCOPE
This Standard applies to cosmetic products and raw materials intended to be used in
cosmetic products in two scopes:
The users of this Standard are manufacturers, handlers and brand owners of organic or
natural cosmetic products and ingredients.
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4. DEFINITIONS
« Catalyst » - a substance used to modify or increase the rate of a reaction without being
consumed in the process.
« Cosmetic ingredient » - (taken from Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009) - any substance or
mixture intentionally used in the cosmetic product during the process of manufacturing.
The following shall not be regarded as ingredients:
The term “raw material” is also used within the same meaning as cosmetic ingredient.
Note - the water added during the manufacture of the finished product is therefore a
separate ingredient.
« Cosmetic product » - (taken from Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009) - any substance or
mixture intended to be placed in contact with the external parts of the human body
(epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and the
mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them,
perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good
condition or correcting body odours.
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« Genetically Modified Organisms (GMOs) » (taken from the Directive 2001/18/EC) means
an organism, with the exception of human beings, in which the genetic material has been
altered in a way that does not occur naturally by mating and/or natural recombination.
Annex 1A summarizes what techniques are included as genetic modification.
« Derivative of GMO » - any substance which is produced from or by a GMO where the
GMO is the source organism of the substance or is involved directly in the last process that
accomplishes an essential conversion of the substance.
« Manufacturer » - (taken from Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009) - any natural or legal
person who manufactures a cosmetic product or has such a product designed or
manufactured, and markets that cosmetic product under his name or trademark.
« Manufacturing » - group of operations carried out in the factory or the laboratory, for
obtaining, preparing, processing and labelling products.
« Mineral » - raw material obtained from naturally occurring substances formed through
geological processes, but excluding fossil fuel-derived materials.
« Natural origin » - the following are of natural origin: water, minerals and ingredients of
mineral origin, physically processed agro-ingredients, chemically processed agro-
ingredients (and parts thereof) derived wholly from the above. The following are not of
natural origin: petrochemical moieties, preservatives and denaturing agents from
petrochemical origin.
« Organic » - production system that complies with Regulation No. (EC) 834/2007 or other
organic standards using as their reference point the Codex Alimentarius GL 32 and certified
in accordance with Regulation No. (EC) 834/2007 or an equivalent national or international
standard or this Standard by a duly constituted certification body or authority. When
referring to organic in this Standard, other terms that mean the same in other languages
are also included and are subject to the same limitations.
• Considered as complying with Regulation No. (EC) 834/2007 are those standards
that have been accepted as compliant or equivalent through the mechanisms set out
in that regulation.
• Considered as using as their reference point the Codex Alimentarius GL 32 are those
national standards (i.e. recognised by or within national legislation) where Codex
Alimentarius GL 32 is clearly referenced within the standard.
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« Organic content » - that part of an ingredient (or product) coming from an organic
production system where the ingredient is certified in accordance with Regulation No.
(EC) 834/2007 or an equivalent national or international standard or this Standard by a
duly constituted certification body or authority.
« Primary raw material » - any product of plant, animal, or microbial origin, as well as
minerals, which is used as raw material in the manufacture of cosmetic ingredients.
« Rinse-off product » - (taken from Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 - a cosmetic product
which is intended to be removed after application on the skin, the hair or the mucous
membranes.
« Substance » - (taken from Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009) - a chemical element and
its compounds in the natural state or obtained by any manufacturing process, including
any additive necessary to preserve its stability and any impurity deriving from the process
used but excluding any solvent which may be separated without affecting the stability of
the substance or changing its composition.
« Total product » - the total finished cosmetic product including all ingredients (water,
mineral ingredients, physically processed agro-ingredients, chemically processed agro-
ingredients and other ingredients).
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5. GENERAL
5.1.1 Nanomaterials
Nanomaterials are forbidden. It is recognised that there may need to be exceptions and
applications for exceptions supported by technical dossiers will be considered.
5.1.3 Irradiation
Gamma and X-ray irradiation are forbidden.
5.3 Sustainability
Preservation of biodiversity and sustainability are important factors to take into account
when selecting materials to be used in certified products/ingredients.
See section 7.4 for specifications and ingredients this applies to. See section 12 for
implementation.
The raw materials required to be from CSPO will be reviewed regularly to reflect availability
with the aim of increasing the ingredients from CSPO. COSMOS is committed to ensuring
that the sourcing of palm oil ingredients across all COSMOS supply chains has no negative
impact on natural ecosystems, including primary rainforest.
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In this Standard, the ingredients of a cosmetic product are classified in five categories:
• Water
• Minerals and ingredients of mineral origin
• Physically processed agro-ingredients
• Chemically processed agro-ingredients
• Other ingredients.
The same classification will apply for the origin and composition of a single cosmetic
ingredient or a mixture of cosmetic ingredients. Manufacturers of ingredients must provide
the corresponding percentages in the technical documentation.
6.1.1 Water
The water used must comply with hygienic standards (CFU less than 100/ml) and may be:
• potable water
• spring water
• water obtained by osmosis
• distilled water
• sea water.
Ingredients of mineral origin may be used only if they are listed in Appendix IV and they
must comply with relevant legislation.
Minerals and ingredients of mineral origin may be treated with the physical processes listed
in Appendix I.
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• Only primary raw materials of plant, animal or microbial origin that have been
extracted using the physical processes listed in Appendix I are allowed.
• Only primary raw materials that respect the requirements of the Convention of
International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) are
allowed.
It is forbidden to use:
• Plants, plant materials and microorganisms that have been genetically modified
• primary raw materials extracted from living or slaughtered animals.
• they are produced by animals but are not a part of the animal
• they do not entail the death of the animal concerned, and
• they have been obtained using only the processes listed in Appendix I.
Only primary raw materials that respect the requirements of the Convention of
International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) are allowed to
be used.
It is forbidden to use:
• Plants, plant materials and microorganisms that have been genetically modified
• primary raw materials extracted from living or slaughtered animals.
• they are produced by animals but are not a part of the animal
• they do not entail the death of the animal concerned, and
• they have been obtained using only the processes listed in Appendix I and II.
Note – alcohol and other by-products of fermentation are chemically processed agro-
ingredients.
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• must only use the chemical processes listed in Appendix II (an indicative list of those
not allowed is in Appendix III) and must use renewable resources
• may use ingredients derived from culture or fermentation and other non-GMO
biotechnology, the cultures must use only feedstock from natural vegetable or
microbial raw materials without using genetically modified organisms or their
derivatives
• must comply with the following quantitative requirements for their chemically
processed agro-ingredients:
Principle Requirement
Atom economy Reaction mass efficiency (of last reaction step): ≥ 50%
Reaction mass efficiency = (weight of desired product(s) / weight of
all reactants) x 100
With regards to Aquatic Toxicity: Performing new fish and daphnia tests
to determine unknown LC50/ EC50 values for COSMOS certification is
not allowed. Instead, the use of calculation from available data based
on indirect alternatives methods and in vitro tests must be used.
- OECD 301B (ISO 9439), OECD 301C, OECD 301D (ISO 10707),
OECD 301F (ISO 9408) or OECD 310 (ISO 14593) meet a
percentage degradation > 60%
Note - Appendix VIII provides information on exemptions, namely for certain categories
of ingredients for which it is not necessary to meet the atom economy or non-
persistence requirements.
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With the current state of development of green chemistry, it is not yet possible to specify
limits or requirements for all principles. For the following principles, manufacturers of
chemically processed agro-ingredients must supply information about how the principle
is applied or measured:
Principle Requirement
However, green chemistry is still in development. As the principles and practice of green
chemistry evolve, these will be further elaborated and incorporated into this Standard.
For all ingredients, the actual organic percentage, calculated according to this Standard,
must be provided in the technical documentation.
6.2.1 Water
Water cannot be calculated as organic. This includes water that is:
• added directly, or
• added indirectly as mixtures with or components of other ingredients, for example
minerals, physically or chemically processed agro-ingredients.
The liquid (juice) content of fresh plants is not considered as water. Please refer to 6.2.3
for extracts and reconstitution of dried or concentrated ingredients.
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First step:
Ratio = [organic fresh plant / (extract - solvents)]
If the ratio is greater than 1, then it is counted as 1.
Second step:
% organic = {[ratio x (extract - solvents) / extract] + [organic solvents / extract]}
x 100.
Conditions:
*fresh or dried
Conditions:
• Solvent should be understood as the quantity of solvent present in the final extract.
Water is not considered as a solvent.
• Mixtures of organic and non-organic of the same plant cannot be considered as
organic.
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• To calculate the equivalent fresh weight of dried plants in the calculation of organic
content of extracts, it is possible:
- either to use the actual dry to fresh ratio for the material (information to be
provided)
- or use the following ratios:
Wood, bark, seeds, nuts and roots 1 : 2.5
Leaves, flowers and aerial parts 1 : 4.5
Fruits (e.g. apricot, grape) 1 : 5
Watery fruits (e.g. pineapple, orange) 1 : 8
• It is possible to reconstitute pure concentrates and dried powders to their natural
state provided:
- the reconstitution is done before adding to a formulation, and
- the concentrate or powder must not contain any other ingredients, additives
or carriers (for example, those mixed with carriers such as maltodextrin
cannot be reconstituted).
Note: freeze drying preserves quality best.
CPAI % organic = [(all organic starting primary raw materials – organic starting primary
raw materials in excess) / (all starting primary raw materials – all starting primary raw
materials in excess)] x 100.
Conditions:
Chemically processed agro-ingredients may be certified in their own right according to this
Standard, however:
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% PPAI product = ∑ weight of PPAI of each ingredient / weight of all ingredients x 100
% ORG PPAI product = ∑ weight of ORG PPAI of each ingredient / weight of all
ingredients x 100
% ORG product = [∑weight of ORG PPAI of each ingredient +∑ weight of ORG CPAI of
each ingredients]/ weight of all ingredients x 100.
7.1.1 Ingredients
• At least 95% of the physically processed agro-ingredients must be organic
• The remaining physically processed agro-ingredients must be organic if they are
listed in Appendix VI
• The chemically processed agro-ingredients listed in Appendix VII must be organic.
Due to the composition of soaps, alcohol spritzers and perfumes (high majority of CPAI),
where it is not possible to meet the >95% organic PPAI requirement, this criterion is
adapted:
• For soaps:
- When making soaps from raw materials into finished product (use of plant
oils), no change of the criterion: organic PPAI / all PPAI > 95%
- When soap noodles are used and other ingredients are added use this
calculation: at least 95% of [PPAI + CPAI soaps] must be organic: [organic
PPAI + organic CPAI soap] / (all PPAI + CPAI soap) > 95%
using the following equations:
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CPAI soap =
[(all saponification agro-ingredients - all saponification agro-ingredients in
excess) / (all saponification agro-ingredients - all saponification agro-
ingredients in excess)] x 100
Any ingredients that are additives and not used for saponification such as citric
acid, are not considered in these equations.
Base formulas with no organic content (e.g. shampoo bases, soap bases) cannot go
through the normal Approval process. Instead, they must be certified under COSMOS
NATURAL certification (therefore including an on-site inspection).
• Palm oil (Note, must be organic for COSMOS Organic products, see Appendix VI)
• Palm kernel oil
• Glycerin, cocamidopropyl betaine and coco betaine
• Fatty acids: stearic acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid
• Fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol
• Esters made from fatty acids or fatty alcohols: cetyl palmitate, cetyl phosphate,
myristyl myristate, glyceryl (mono-) stearate and glyceryl oleate
• Triglycerides: C8-C10 caprylic/capric triglyceride and C10-C18 triglycerides.
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When a Commercial Reference/blend contains all ingredients that are from the list above,
they have to be from (organic or) CSPO (eg. a product containing stearic acid and palmitic
acid, these have to be from CSPO.) If a commercial reference/blend contains some of the
ingredients from the above list plus other ingredients not from the list (eg. an extract),
none of the ingredients have to be from CSPO), although it is encouraged where possible.
If an ingredient from the list has water added to it, then it still has to be from CSPO.
The minimum level required is the Mass Balance supply chain model. This means that
Certified Segregated and Identity Preserved (IP) are acceptable, but Book & Claim is not.
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8.1 Storage
Storage areas must be clearly labelled to avoid any confusion or risk to the integrity of the
products.
8.2 Manufacturing
Different manufacturing processes must be separated to prevent contamination of organic
or natural ingredients.
8.3 Packaging
Primary and secondary packaging and fabric components must meet the criteria below.
Accessories sold with products, such as brushes, applicators or technical parts, do not
have to comply.
8.3.1 To minimise the direct and indirect environmental impacts of packaging during its
life cycle, it is required to:
It must be demonstrated during inspection that this has been done for each
packaging format used.
8.3.2 Packaging must be reviewed against standard 8.3.1 at least every three years and
it must be demonstrated that this has been done, for example by keeping minutes
of review meetings, or having a formal policy requiring this.
8.3.3 All packaging materials used must be on the list of accepted materials as listed in
Appendix IX.
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8.3.5 It is recognised that there may need to be exceptions for specific technical purposes
(e.g. pumps, applicators, droppers, brushes) where no other materials can deliver
the required properties. Applications for exceptions supported by technical dossiers
will be considered.
- air
- oxygen
- nitrogen
- carbon dioxide
- argon.
8.4 Fabrics
Some cosmetic products include fabric components (wipes, strips, masks, pads, etc.)
which may be used if they meet the following requirements:
• For COSMOS ORGANIC products, the cosmetic formula must meet this Standard and
the fabric material must be 100% certified organic
• For COSMOS NATURAL products, fabric components must meet the requirements for
physically and chemically processed agro-ingredients in this Standard but do not
need to be organic. Lyocell and Viscose are allowed
• The weight of the fabrics is not included in the organic and natural origin calculations
of the total product
• Processes not allowed in the standard (refer to Appendix III) also apply to fabrics.
It is recognised that there may need to be exceptions if other materials are required and
applications for exceptions supported by technical dossiers will be considered.
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9. ENVIRONMENTAL MANAGEMENT
Note - compliance with ISO 14000 or national legislation that already covers this
will be accepted.
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9.2.3 It must be ensured by the client that there are no residues from cleaning
products.
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Note: The requirements listed below are intended to provide clear consumer information
and are in line with the legal framework of most countries but additional legal provisions
may exist in some other countries.
• must be labelled with the signature ‘COSMOS ORGANIC’ in conjunction with the seal
of the COSMOS-standard AISBL member organisation as detailed in the Labelling
Guide
• must indicate the certification body on the label
• must indicate on the label the percentage of organic origin ingredients by weight in
the total product, as “x% organic of total”
• may also indicate the percentage of organic origin ingredients by weight in the total
product without water and minerals (as defined in 6.2.1 and 6.2.2), as “y% organic
of total minus water and minerals”
Note: you may give prominence to either of the above percentage indications.
• must indicate the percentage of natural origin ingredients by weight in the total
product, as “x% natural origin of total”
• must indicate organic ingredients and those made from organic raw materials in the
INCI list. This should be limited to the wording: “from organic agriculture” for
physically processed agro-ingredients and “made using organic ingredients” for
chemically processed agro-ingredients or similar expressions using the same text as
used for the INCI list.
The product must not be called “organic”, for example, “organic shampoo”, unless it is at
least 95% organic, measured as a percentage of the total product.
For products that are 100% organic or 100% natural origin, the indication of the
percentage natural origin is not obligatory.
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• must be labelled with the signature ‘COSMOS NATURAL’ in conjunction with the seal
of the COSMOS-standard AISBL member organisation as detailed in the Labelling
Guide
• must indicate the certification body on the label
• must indicate the percentage of natural origin ingredients by weight in the total
product, as “x% natural origin of total”
• may indicate organic ingredients and those made from organic raw materials in the
INCI list. This must be limited to the wording: “from organic agriculture” for
physically processed agro-ingredients and “made using organic ingredients” for
chemically processed agro-ingredients or similar expressions using the same text as
used for the INCI list
• may indicate the percentage of organic origin ingredients by weight in the total
product, as “x% organic of total”
• may indicate the percentage of organic origin ingredients by weight in the total
product without water and minerals (as defined in 6.2.1 and 6.2.2), as “y% organic
of total minus water and minerals”.
Organic claims on the front of the packaging are limited to the organic content of the
total product and the organic ingredient(s) concerned, and must:
• appear in text that is no more prominent than the smallest text on the front of the
packaging
• appear in conjunction with the COSMOS NATURAL signature (which must therefore
also be on the front and in accordance with the first bullet of the paragraph above),
and
• the organic ingredients concerned are also identified in the INCI list (in accordance
with the third bullet of the paragraph above).
For products that are 100% natural origin, the indication of the percentage natural origin
is not obligatory.
• must be labelled with the signature ‘COSMOS CERTIFIED’ in conjunction with the seal
of the COSMOS-standard AISBL member organisation as detailed in the Labelling
Guide
• must indicate the certification body on the label
• must indicate clearly on the label and/or appropriate documents the percentage of
organic content of the ingredient by weight in the total ingredient, as “x% organic
content”.
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• may be labelled with the signature ‘COSMOS APPROVED’ in conjunction with the seal
of the COSMOS-standard AISBL member organisation as detailed in the Labelling
Guide
• must indicate the certification body on the label
• must make no reference on the label or on relevant documents to certification or to
organic.
• if the signature is used, only in the way described in 10.2, 10.3, 10.4 and 10.5
• only in conjunction with the products or ingredients that are certified, and
• only in a way that does not mislead the consumer, for example where it might
mistakenly be associated with non-certified products.
Note – the danger of such a mistake arises in particular if the name is used in
documents that are connected with the marketing of any non-certified products without
a clear statement explaining the situation.
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11.1 Certification
To be certified for cosmetic ingredients or cosmetic products under natural or organic
certification according to this Standard, it is required to fulfil the requirements described
in the documents of the Scheme.
It is required to:
• supply all information and documents needed for the approval as requested by the
certification body, and
• declare to the certification body any changes to the processing of that ingredient that
may affect its approval.
Certification bodies must use the COSMOS-standard, and the COSMOS signatures,
names and terms only in accordance with the requirements set out in this Standard, the
Control Manual - Accreditation and Certification Requirements, and the Labelling Guide,
or otherwise only with the prior written consent of the COSMOS-standard AISBL.
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This Standard, Version 3.0, does not apply to cosmetic products and raw materials which
have not been certified / approved in accordance with COSMOS-standard, Version 2,
section 12.2, last bullet point.
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APPENDICES
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All EXTRACTIONS must be with natural materials with any forms of water or with a third
solvent of plant origin, such as:
• ethyl alcohol
• glycerine
• vegetable oils
• honey
• supercritical CO2 ABSORPTION
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• Aqueous solutions of mineral acids (hydrochloric acid, sulphuric acid, phosphoric acid,
etc.) are allowed as manufacturing auxiliaries for neutralization, purification and
extraction. They are not allowed as reactants (raw material or ingredient)
• Manufacturing auxiliaries are therefore not listed in the INCI list of the ingredient or
cosmetic finished product.
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ALKYLATION
AMIDATION
BIOTECHNOLOGY PROCESSES
CALCINATION of plants residues
CARBONIZATION (resins, fatty organic oils)
CONDENSATION / ADDITION
ESTERIFICATION / TRANS-ESTERIFICATION / INTER-ESTERIFICATION
ETHERIFICATION
HYDRATION
HYDROGENATION
HYDROLYSIS
IONIC EXCHANGE
NEUTRALIZATION
OXYDIZATION / REDUCTION
PHOSPHORYLATION (permitted only for ingredients for leave-on products)
SAPONIFICATION
SULPHATION/SULPHATATION
However:
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• Aqueous solutions of mineral acids (hydrochloric acid, sulphuric acid, phosphoric acid,
etc.) are allowed as manufacturing auxiliaries for neutralization, purification and
extraction. They are not allowed as reactants (raw material or ingredient)
• Manufacturing auxiliaries are therefore not listed in the INCI list of the ingredient or
cosmetic finished product
• There are exemptions for sulphuric acid which is allowed for sulphation/sulphatation
reactions, and for phosphoric agents which are allowed to produce phosphorylated
ingredients, for leave on products only.
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Only the processes listed in Appendix I and Appendix II are allowed. Those below represent
a non-exhaustive list which only identifies the main ones that are not allowed.
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Ingredients of mineral origin* may be used only if they are listed below and they must
comply with relevant legislation. These substances are allowed:
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CI 77492
CI 77499
Copper Oxide
Gold Gold
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Silver Silver
Sodium Fluoride Sodium Fluoride Only in oral cavity Sea water, spring water
hygiene product
Sodium Hydroxide Sodium Hydroxide
Sodium Magnesium
Silicate
Sodium Metasilicate Disodium Metasilicate
Titanium Dioxide, CI Titanium Dioxide See 5.1.1 of the Anatas, brookite, rutile
77891 Technical Guide
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This appendix contains those ingredients that are temporarily allowed and will be reviewed
on a regular basis with the aim of removing those where compliant alternatives exist.
These ingredients cannot be certified as organic.
Ingredient Restrictions
Benzyl Alcohol
Denatonium Benzoate and Tertiary Butyl Alcohol and other Only as denaturing agent for
denaturing agents for alcohol (excluding phthalates) ethanol – where required by law
The percentage of these NNI do not count towards the limit of 2% petrochemical moiety
in the total finished product.
Ingredient Restrictions
Betaine
Carrageenan
Lecithin and lecithin derivatives
Tocopherol/ Tocotrienol
Oryzanol
Annatto
Carotenoids/ Xanthophylls
Absolutes, Concretes, Resinoids COSMOS NATURAL only
Lanolin
Phytosterol
Glycosphingolipids and Glycolipids
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Alkyl amphoacetate/
diacetate
Alkylglucosidecarboxylate
This table of ingredients that are temporarily allowed will be reviewed on a regular basis
with the aim of removing those where compliant alternatives exist or replacing those with
a better ecological profile.
Petrochemical moieties must not exceed a total of 2% of the total finished product.
Those ingredients containing both natural origin and petrochemical moieties cannot be
organic.
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Other ingredients
Ingredient Restrictions
Carmine
Silk
Mother of pearl/Ostrea Shell Powder Only from naturally dead shells, and only from
wild harvest, not from food waste.
Caramel Only allowed if reagents and processes are
compliant
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• Ingredients that are complex mixtures, such as perfumes and elements of perfumes
• Ingredients that are extracted using petrochemical solvents (as per Appendix V.2).
The list will be reviewed and updated regularly based on the availability of organic
physically processed agro-ingredients on the market.
Argan
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Almond
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Apricot Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Hemp
Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil
Honey Mel
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The list will be reviewed and updated regularly based on the availability of chemically
processed agro-ingredients with organic content on the market.
In the case of a shortage of an organic raw material listed in Appendix VII certification
bodies may grant exemptions according to the rules as laid down in the Control Manual
and Technical Guide.
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For other ingredients, if no test is done, there is the possibility to submit written
(bibliographic) data or to apply alternative methods such as the Read Across or QSAR
approach. Note - see Technical Guide for further information.
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Primary and secondary packaging, and fabric components must meet the criteria for
packaging.
Accessories sold with products such as brushes or applicators, or technical parts do not
need to meet the criteria for packaging.
The list of accepted materials applies to the main parts of the packaging, which are:
• Bottle
• Jar
• Tube
• Cap
• Sachets
• Boxes.
These parts have to be made with the accepted materials listed above. It applies to all
kind of products: skincare, healthcare, make-up, etc. If a material is not listed above, a
technical documentation can be submitted to the Technical Committee for review.
• closure system
• small products (eg: make-up products)
• solid soaps and massage bars (where it will be considered as primary packaging).
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COSMOS-standard AISBL, Rue du Commerce 124, 1000 Brussels, Belgium
info@cosmos-standard.org
www.cosmos-standard.org