H&M

QUALITY STANDARDS &

REQUIREMENTS

Quality department

December 2010
 General 3
Definitions 3
Abbreviations used in this document 4
Colour Fastness properties 5
CF to artificial light - Xenon test 5
CF to household laundering 5
CF to dry cleaning 5
CF to dry rubbing 6
CF to wet rubbing 7
CF to water 7
CF to bleeding 7
CF to chlorinated water 7
Appearance test to chlorinated water 7
CF to sea water 8
Appearance test to Sea water 8
Corrosion - Dip test 8
CF to oil 8
CF to perspiration 8
CF -Dye transfer in storage 8
CF to hot pressing 8
CF to phenolic yellowing 9
CF to PVC migration 9
CF to saliva 9
Physical properties 10
Deviation of fibre content 10
Dimensional stability to household laundering 10
Appearance after 5 times wash 10
Dimensional stability to dry clean 10
Appearance after dry clean 10
Twisting 10
Abrasion resistance - socks and tights 11
Air permeability 11
Cold test 11
Conditioning test for stickers 11
Drop test 11
Key holder test 11
Pile loss - Abrasion resistance 12
Pilling resistance - ICI pilling box 13
Pilling resistance - Martindale 13
Rain test 13
Seam slippage 13
Snagging resistance 13
Surface wetting of fabric 13
Tear strength 14
Water vapour 14
Wicking performance 14
Zipper test - general 14
Safety requirements 15
Flammability test - general 15
Flammability – cigarette test 16
Flammability test – nightwear 16
CE test - Toys 16
Pull force test 16
Reflector test 16
Thermal resistance 16
UV protection 16
Zipper puller test 16

H&M Quality Standards & Requirements 2(16)

December 2010
GENERAL

The requirements apply to all products in textile, leather/suede, plastic, bone, wood, metal, straw
and paper.

Below products are excluded in this document. Requirements and test methods for those are
specified in separate product specifications:
 Home textiles (applicable for H&M Home)
 Footwear
 Sunglasses
 Cosmetics

For some products product specifications are available, specifying required properties for the actual
product. For example; Ski wear, Winter overalls, Swimwear, Alice bands etc.

 All H&M documents referred to in this document is found on "H&M's supplier website". User
name and password is distributed by your local H&M office.
 H&M generally refers to International and European standard methods (ISO and EN) which
are possible to purchase worldwide. For tests referring to H&M methods the test method,
sampling and definition is found in H&M Lab manual.
 Specification of equipment and consumables are found in the H&M Lab manual.
 All requirements are given in minimum value, e.g. 3-4 means equal to or higher grade than
3-4.
 The latest published standard method is valid.
 All H&M tests are performed in unconditioned atmosphere.

The production must correspond to all H&M requirements and restrictions in all aspects, even those
not randomly tested by H&M.

In case of contradicting test results the test result of H&M will prevail.

Definitions
Apparel accessories = scarves, hats, gloves, mittens, belts, bags etc.
Accessories = small accessories and apparel accessories
Functional outer wear = ski wear including hat & gloves, winter overalls, rainwear. One or
more functions are requested e.g. waterproof, water resistant, water
repellent, windproof, breathable
Home decorations = seasonal decorations e.g. napkin rings and Christmas ornaments
Pile fabric = velvet, velour, corduroy etc.
Plastic = all types of plastic materials e.g. PU, PEVA, silicone and rubber
Pullers with play value = decorative pullers / easy grippable
Sleep bags = full length fabric bag with neck opening and armholes but without
sleeves, hood or specific areas for feet and legs
Small accessories = Hair accessories (hairclips, terry bands, Alice bands etc.)
Jewelleries (earrings, necklace, bracelet etc.)
Textile = natural and man-made textile fibres

Size groups Sizes

Baby’s wear 44-86 cl
Children’s wear 86-170 cl (When 86 is included in size group 86-128 cl, it
is not covered by special requirement for baby’s wear)
Smaller children’s wear 86-128 cl
Older children’s wear 134-170 cl
Adult’s wear Ladies’; 32-56, XS - 3XL, Men’s; XS-XL, 42-56, Short 88-
108, Long 144-156

H&M Quality Standards & Requirements 3(16)

December 2010
Abbreviations used in this document
CF = Colour fastness
CIL (mcd/lux) = millicandela per lux
cl= centilong
g = gram
g/m2 = gram per square meter
g/m Pah = gram per meter Pascal hours
mm = millimetre
mm/s = millimetre per second
N = Newton
Nm = Newton meter
OBA = Optical Brightening Agents
rev = revolutions
sec = seconds
W = Wales (per inch)

H&M Quality Standards & Requirements 4(16)

December 2010
COLOUR FASTNESS PROPERTIES

TEST STANDARD METHOD PRODUCT REQUIREMENTS

ISO 105-B02 Ski wear including gloves, Change in colour: 4
CF to artificial Method 2 hats & winter overalls
light - Xenon Beach wear, e.g. sun hats
test Blue wool reference & sarongs
grade 5
Swimwear fabrics including Change in colour: 5
embroidery, print etc.
Use blue wool Plastic decorations on No major change
reference fabric from swimwear, e.g. sequins,
SDC. plastic bead, buckle etc.
Exceptions
Swimwear in white colour Change in colour: 4
with OBA
Swimwear in neon colours Change in colour: 2
and very bright colours of
pink, turquoise, yellow and
green
H&M Method according Products labelled with care Colour staining: 3-4
CF to to H&M Lab Manual. instructions, possible to Change in colour: 4
household wash in water Cross staining: 4-5
laundering (based on ISO 6330,
ISO 3759 & ISO 5077)
Exceptions
Detergent for coloured Solid dark coloured Colour staining: 2*
garments. products in Change in colour: 4
Whole garments, no - 100% polyester
dummy loading - polyester blends ≥ 30%
polyester

ISO 105 D01 Products labelled with “dry Change in colour: 4

CF to dry clean only” or dry clean as Cross staining: 4-5
cleaning optional cleaning method

*for results below 3-4 “Wash with similar colours” must be mentioned in the care instruction.

H&M Quality Standards & Requirements 5(16)

December 2010
 TEST STANDARD METHOD PRODUCT REQUIREMENTS
ISO 105-X12 Adult’s & Children’s 3-4
CF to dry products
rubbing Face & reverse side.
Before & after wash or
Baby’s products 4
dry clean.

H&M Method According All small accessories not Jewellery: 2-3

to H&M Lab Manual possible to test according Hair accessories: 3-4
to ISO 105-X12
(based on ISO 105-
X12)

Exceptions
Choose applicable
Baby’s & smaller children’s 3
method from above
products:
China portion
China requirement
- Placement prints in foil Baby’s products: 4
applies before wash
and pigment on front side
of garment
- Pile fabric
Baby’s & smaller children’s 2-3
products:
China portion
- Denim* Baby’s products: 4
Other: 3
Older children’s & adult’s 3
products:

- Placement prints in foil

and pigment on front side
of garment
- Pile fabric
- Linen
- Wool in rough structure
- Peached products
- Indigo dyed jersey
Older children’s & adult’s 2-3
products:
China portion
- Denim* 3
- Pigment dye*
- Suede*

H&M aims to reach the general requirements for all orders; due to technical limitation for some
qualities and dye/print methods the lowest acceptable results for dry rubbing is stated in the
exception list. Results below the general requirement must always be an agreement between
supplier and H&M, even though stated in the exception list.

* Denim, pigment dye, indigo dyed jersey and suede; if the dry rubbing result is below 3-4 the extra information - The
colour of this product may transfer onto light coloured materials - must be mentioned in the care instruction. A
hangtag/sticker with the same information must also be attached to the garment. Not applicable for products with no dry
rubbing problem. H&M artworks must be followed.

H&M Quality Standards & Requirements 6(16)

December 2010
TEST STANDARD METHOD PRODUCT REQUIREMENTS
ISO 105-X12 Swimwear 3
CF to wet Face & reverse side Functional outer wear
rubbing Before & after wash or
Bath robes 2-3
dry clean
Morning gowns
China portion
China requirement
applies before wash General 2-3
Swimwear 3
Functional outer wear
Exceptions: No wet rubbing
- Denim requirement
- Fake fur garments
- Separately sold ties
- Woven wool
jackets/coats/blazers
without padding
- Separately sold woven
belts
ISO 105-E01 or All products Colour staining: 3-4
CF to water Chinese standard Change in colour: 4
GB/T 5713 Cross staining: 4-5

Textiles: Use ISO or

GB adjacent fibre
Other: Use multifibre,
type DW

Sampling & definition

according to H&M Lab
manual
H&M Method All jewellery and hair 2-3
CF to bleeding according to H&M Lab accessories
Manual
ISO 105-E03 Swimwear fabrics including Change in colour: 4
CF to concentration of embroidery print etc. Cross staining: 4-5
chlorinated chlorine 50 mg/l
water Exceptions
Swimwear in white colour Change in colour: 3-4
with OBA Cross staining: 4-5
Swimwear in neon colours Change in colour: 3
and very bright colours of Cross staining: 4-5
pink, turquoise, yellow and
green
Modified ISO 105-E03 Metallic & plastic No major change
Appearance Concentration of decorations used on
test to chlorine 50 mg/l swimwear
chlorinated
water Place the decoration in (E.g. sequins, plastic
the chlorine solution in beads, buckles etc.)
a steel container,
preferably together
with a piece of fabric of
the swimwear

H&M Quality Standards & Requirements 7(16)

December 2010
TEST STANDARD METHOD PRODUCT REQUIREMENTS
ISO 105-E02 Swimwear Colour staining: 3-4
CF to sea Change in colour: 4
water Cross staining: 4-5

Referring to ISO 105- Plastic decorations used on No major change

Appearance E02 swimwear
test to Sea - Soak/place the
water sample in a glass bowl (E.g. sequins, plastic
with 3% sodium beads, buckles etc.)
chloride salt solution
(3% NaCl),
- Place the bowl in an
oven at the temp.
40°C for 4 hours
ISO 8442-2 Metallic decorations used No corrosion
Corrosion modified to simulate on swimwear
- Dip test sea water using:
- 3% sodium chloride
salt solution (3% NaCl)
- Temperature 40°C
- Immerse once a
minute for 6 hours
Modified DIN 53160 Baby’s & children’s bibs & No discoloration
CF to oil aprons in size 44-104 cl
Use olive oil (or similar
oil used for cooking)
instead of saliva
solution

Before and after wash

ISO 105-E04 or Baby’s textile products Acid & Alkaline
CF to Chinese standard GB/T Colour staining: 3-4
perspiration 3922 Change in colour: 3-4
Cross staining: 4-5
Use ISO or GB
adjacent fabric, or
Adult’s & children’s textile Acid & Alkaline
multifibre type DW
product Colour staining: 3
Change in colour: 3
Sampling according to
Cross staining: 4-5
H&M Lab manual

Modified AATCC 163 Textile details such as Colour staining: 4

CF -Dye Option 1 prints, labels, badges, and Change in colour: 4
transfer in other trims in contrast Cross staining: 4-5
storage Test specimens to be colours.
size 4 x 10cm

Use ISO or GB
adjacent fibre and
multifibre type DW
ISO 105-X11 Textile details such as Colour staining: 4
CF to hot prints, labels, badges, and Change in colour: 4
pressing other trims in contrast Cross staining: 4-5
colours.

H&M Quality Standards & Requirements 8(16)

December 2010
TEST STANDARD METHOD PRODUCT REQUIREMENTS
ISO 105-X18 All products Change in colour: 4
CF to phenolic
yellowing

Modified ISO 105-X10 Cosmetic/toilet bags Colour staining: 3

CF to PVC Temperature 40°C
migration

Chinese standard GB/T Baby’s products Colour staining: 4

CF to saliva 18886 Change in colour: 4
Cross staining: 4-5
Textiles: Use ISO or
GB adjacent fibre
Other: Use multifibre
type DW

Sampling according to
H&M Lab manual

H&M Quality Standards & Requirements 9(16)

December 2010
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

TEST STANDARD METHOD PRODUCT REQUIREMENTS

ISO 1833 All textile products If 100% of the same fibre,
Deviation of no deviation is allowed
fibre content
If fibre blend:
Fibre Tolerance
content in percent
units
≤ 1%  0,3
> 1 to 2%  0,6
> 2 to 3%  0,9
> 3 to 4%  1,2
> 4 to 9%  1,5
> 9%  3,0
H&M Method according Products with care Woven fabric:
Dimensional to H&M Lab Manual. instructions, possible to Length:  3%
stability to wash in water Width:  3%
household (based on ISO 6330,
laundering ISO 3759 & ISO 5077) Knitted fabric:
Length:  5%
Detergent for coloured Width:  5%
garments.
Whole garments, no
dummy loading
H&M Method according Products with care No major change
Appearance to H&M Lab Manual. instructions, possible to
after 5 times wash in water
wash 5 times washing and
drying cycles

(see Dimensional
stability to household
laundering)
ISO 3759 Products with care Woven fabric:
Dimensional instruction “dry clean only” Length ± 3%
stability to dry or dry clean as optional Width ± 3%
clean cleaning method
Knitted fabric:
Length ± 5%
Width ± 5%

ISO 3175-2 Products with care No major change

Appearance instruction “dry clean only”
after dry clean or dry clean as optional
cleaning method

H&M method according Products with care General < 5%

Twisting to H&M Lab Manual. instructions, possible to Trousers < 8%.
wash in water
Measure after wash at 1 cm or less twisting is
bottom hem within the tolerance for all
types of garments
(see Dimensional
stability to household
laundering)

H&M Quality Standards & Requirements 10(16)

December 2010
TEST STANDARD METHOD PRODUCT REQUIREMENTS
EN 530 part 2 Children’s functional outer After > 8000 rev
Abrasion - Loading: 9kPa wear in size 86-140 cl No holes
resistance – - Abradant: Sandpaper Knee- and bottom area
Children’s Grit No 100 Grade F2.
functional outer Abradant should be Beaver- & Cordura nylon
wear replaced and debris
removed every 1000
Children’s functional outer After > 5000 rev
revolution
wear in size 86-140 cl, No holes
Knee- and bottom area

Other qualities

EN 13770-1 Socks and tights (except After > 7000 rev

Abrasion After 5000 revolutions micro fibre) No thinning
resistance - stop and evaluate after
socks and tights each 1000 revolution

ISO 9237 Functional outer wear with < 20 mm/s

Air permeability “wind proof” function

H&M Method according Functional outer wear for No major change in hand
Cold test to H&M Lab manual use in cold weather, e.g. feel (The fabric should not
skiwear and winter overalls become stiff)

H&M method Stickers (e.g. size stickers) The sticker shall remain
Conditioning properly on fabric during
test for stickers Preparation according the process.
to H&M Lab Manual No glue stains or colour
change on fabric after
removal.

H&M Method according Accessories and Home See H&M Lab manual
Drop test to H&M Lab manual decorations

Selection according to H&M

Lab Manual

Key holder test QB/T 1143 Key chain & key ring for According to the standard
Clause 5.1 -5.7 China market.

H&M Quality Standards & Requirements 11(16)

December 2010
TEST STANDARD METHOD PRODUCT REQUIREMENTS
ISO 12947-2/AC Pile fabric e.g. velvet General
Pile loss - Annex A:2 7000 rev
Abrasion (For treated pile fabrics
resistance No preparatory see below) No visible bare parts must
treatment should be appear
done on any cord
Corduroy  19 W = 7000 rev
 19 W
No visible bare parts must
(For treated pile fabrics appear
see below)
 19 W = 5000 rev
No visible bare parts must
appear

Pile loss - Treated pile fabrics

Heavy
Garment Enzyme
Products Quality treated
wash wash
area
All

Corduroy ≥21W without pre-treatment 3000 rev 3000 rev 3000 rev

1-19W with pre-treatment

Corduroy
≥ 20W without pre-treatment 7000 rev 5000 rev 3000 rev

1-19W with pre-treatment

Stretch 7000 rev 7000 rev 3000 rev
corduroy
≥ 20W without pre-treatment
Bottoms

5000 rev 5000 rev 3000 rev.

Velvet 1-19W without pre-treatment

corduroy, 7000 rev 5000 rev 3000 rev
Velvet stretch
corduroy
Velveteen, with pre-treatment
Stretch velvet 7000 rev 5000 rev 3000 rev
baby wear
Tops and

All pile fabrics 1-20W with pre-treatment 3000 rev 3000 rev 3000 rev

H&M Quality Standards & Requirements 12(16)

December 2010
TEST STANDARD METHOD PRODUCT REQUIREMENTS
ISO 12945-1 Knitted textile products 14 400 rev: 3
Pilling The test should be
resistance performed before wash
- ICI pilling box
Exceptions
Use the grading
scheme and EMPA Wool/wool blends 7 200 rev: 3
photo scales when
evaluating
Lambs wool/lambs wool 7 200 rev: 2-3
blends containing >20%
lambs wool
ISO 12945-2 Woven textile products 2000 rev: 3
Pilling The test should be
resistance performed before wash
- Martindale
Exceptions
Use the grading
scheme and EMPA Pyjama & shirts in brushed See appearance after wash
photo scales when fabric in 100% cotton &
evaluating cotton/synthetic blends
pilling to be evaluated in
appearance after 5 times
wash test
AATCC 35 Umbrellas <1g
Rain test

ISO 13936-2 Woven textile fabrics Seam opening

Seam slippage Seam according to weight ≤ 6 mm
ready made product
 220 g/ m2 – load applied
The dimensions of the 60 N
clamping area shall be
25mm x 25 mm. The
Woven textile fabrics Seam opening
other jaw of each
weight ≤ 6 mm
clamp in a
perpendicular direction
 220 g/ m2 – load applied
shall be 25 mm x at
120 N
least 40 mm wide.

ASTM D 3939 Fabrics in knitted micro- Warp & weft: 3

Snagging fibre
resistance

ISO 4920 Functional outer wear Before wash: 4

Surface wetting Temp. of water 20°C After 5 washing/drying
of fabric - Spray cycles: 3
test
Other synthetic outer wear Before wash: 4
After wash: 3

H&M Quality Standards & Requirements 13(16)

December 2010
TEST STANDARD METHOD PRODUCT REQUIREMENTS
ISO 13937-2 Woven textile fabrics > 10 N
Tear strength The width of the jaws Tops / blouses /
should be 75 mm, but dresses / fancy jackets
should not be less than
the width of the test Not applicable for light
specimen. weight fabrics
< 90 g/m2, as chiffon,
General georgette & voile
Test should be
Woven textile fabrics > 15 N
performed before wash
Bottoms
Not applicable for light
Treated denim
weight fabrics < 90 g/m2,
(Scrapped or chemical
as chiffon, georgette &
treated) should be
voile
tested before and after
3 washing & drying Woven textile fabrics 150-200gsm: > 15N
cycles Jackets / coats / outwear 200-400gsm: > 20N
Denim (bottoms and Scrapped / chemical
jackets) treated: >15N
Untreated: > 20N
The requirement applies to
lowest received value, not
the mean value
Water EN 20811 or ISO 811 Functional outer wear with Fabric and over
penetration Increase of water “waterproof” function sealed/taped seams
pressure 60
cmH2O/min After 5 washing/drying
Temp. of water 20°C cycles: > 2000 mm
Functional outer wear with Fabric and over
The requirement
“water resistant” function sealed/taped seams
applies to lowest
After 5 washing/drying
received value, not the
cycles: > 1500 mm
mean value.
ISO15496 Functional outer wear with ≥ 0,1 g/m Pah
Water vapour Measure before wash “breathable” function

H&M Method according Functional wear with Knitted:

Wicking to H&M Lab Manual “quick dry” function > 8 cm after 30min
performance (based on JIS L1907 Woven:
Section 7.1.5, Vertical > 5 cm after 30min
wicking)
Before wash and after
10 times wash
BS 3084 All products with zipper See table 1
Zipper test - Tests: Note! For zipper pullers
general  Puller attachment with play value on baby’s Performance code
test (min. N) & children’s products, according to end use of
 Reciprocating test see also: zipper
(min. cycles) Safety tests / Zipper puller
 Lateral strength test - Resistance to twist of
(min. N) pull and slider
Table 1
B C D E
Puller attachment 80/ 200 250 300
90*
Reciprocating test 500 500 500 500
Lateral strength 200 250 370 470
*If by exception B is used for baby’s & children’s wear 90 N is valid.

H&M Quality Standards & Requirements 14(16)

December 2010
SAFETY REQUIREMENTS

TEST STANDARD METHOD PRODUCT REQUIREMENTS

16 CFR 1610 Adult’s garments & Time of flame spread:

Flammability apparel accessories
test - general For test of long pile fabric, fake Face side:
fur etc. ignition time: 3 seconds Mean value >5 seconds.
(for other qualities 1 second Individual specimens must not burn faster than 4 sec.
according to the standard)
Surface flash must self extinguish before reaching the marker thread
Note! All qualities must fulfil without base burn. If the marker thread is reached after 5 sec, the surface
H&M’s requirements. flash is OK.

Synthetics are NOT excluded Long pile fabric, fake fur etc.:
from testing as mentioned in 16 Self extinguish
CFR 1610.
Reverse side - raised surface including long pile/fake fur used for
Fabrics to be tested include, but lining etc:
are not limited to: Mean value >5 seconds. Individual specimens must not burn faster than 4
- Fabrics with plain surfaces with sec.
a weight less than 100g/m2
- Fabrics with raised surfaces Or surface flash <5 sec, provided the intensity of the flame is so low as not
to ignite or fuse the base fabric (definition acc. to class 1).
Note! Fabrics with plain surfaces
Baby’s & Children’s Time of flame spread:
heavier than 100g/m2 in loose
construction and/or with loose garments & apparel
accessories Face side:
twisted yarn might also be
Mean value >7 seconds.
flammable and must be tested to
Individual specimens must not burn faster than 6 sec.
make sure it passes the
Surface flash must self extinguish before reaching the marker thread
requirements.
without base burn. If the marker thread is reached after 7 sec, the surface
flash is OK.
Always consult H&M before
Long pile fabric, fake fur etc.:
usage of flame retardants.
Self extinguish
No flame retardants are allowed
Reverse side:
on baby or children’s products.
Raised surface - including long pile/fake fur used for lining etc:
Mean value >7 seconds.
Individual specimens must not burn faster than 6 sec.
Or surface flash <7 sec, provided the intensity of the flame is so low as not
to ignite or fuse the base fabric (definition acc. to class 1).
TEST STANDARD METHOD PRODUCT REQUIREMENTS

ISO 12952-1 Baby’s & Children’s sleep No ignition

Flammability – bags
cigarette test

EN 14878 Baby’s & Children’s nightwear General: See table 2

Flammability and sleep bags
test –
nightwear

Table 2
Class Application Parameters to be Minimum requirements
measured
A Children’s nightwear (not Surface flash No surface flash
pyjamas) & sleep bags Time of flame spread 3rd marker thread (520 mm) not
Size 74-182 cl* severed in less than 15 s
B Children’s pyjamas Surface flash No surface flash
Size 74-182 cl* Time of flame spread 3rd marker thread (520 mm) not
severed in less than 10 s
C Baby’s nightwear According to general req.
and sleep bags 16 CFR 1610
Size 44-68 cl*
* Note, size break differ from H&M definition of baby’s wear and children’s wear

TEST STANDARD METHOD PRODUCT REQUIREMENTS

EN 71 all applicable parts Toys including disguise According to the
CE test - Toys costumes standard

EN 71-1 Baby’s & children’s 90 N

Pull force test products
All buttons / accessories,
which fits completely into
the small part testing
cylinder
EN13356 Adult’s, children’s & baby’s Photometric test
Reflector test For reflective materials on products with attached 400 CIL (mcd/lux)
products with care reflective material or
instructions; measure accessory made of
after 5 washing & drying reflective material
cycles

Preparation according to
H&M Lab Manual
BS 8510 Clause 7.2 Baby’s & Children’s sleep ≤ 4 Tog
Thermal bags
resistance

AS/NZS 4399 Swimwear with UV UPF 50+

UV protection protective function

ASTM D 2061 Baby’s & children’s 0.50 Nm

Zipper puller section 52 - 61 products with pullers with
test - play value
resistance to Note! See also:
twist of pull Physical properties / Zipper
and slider test - general

H&M Quality Standards & Requirements 16(16)

December 2010