FACE

KOMBUCHKA
TM

Matt complexion Radiant complexion

Irregular surface Normal surface

The lipofilling effect

Poor
irrigation
Good
irrigation without surgery
Poor penetration and Good penetration and
reflection of the light reflection of the light

Concept of a radiant complexion

Function:
Smoothes and freshens the skin.
Definition:
Product of the fermentation of sweet
black tea by the symbiosis of two Improvement
in skin smoothness
microorganisms.
Properties: D0

Antiglycation activity, re-densifying

effect on the adipocyte population,
improves overall skin quality by
enhancing skin smoothness, radiance
and colour. D14

Characteristics:
Rich in organic acids and vitamins
(group B).
Points of interest:
Kombucha, also called Variation
«long-life fungus», is well known as in skin colour (%)
a beverage in Russia and China and light pink Olive
believed to confer longevity. 100

90
Origin: 80
Tradition originated in Russia, + 70
Manchuria and Bohemia. +20% 60 Initial level

INCI name: -23%

50
Initial level
40
Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea -
30
Ferment – Glycerin 20
– Hydroxyethylcellulose 10

Applications: T28 T28

Skin care, particularly anti-ageing

or skin smoothing type products.
Formulation:
Water-soluble. Kombuchka™ decreases glycation
Incorporation at room temperature & skin roughness
or at 45°C in the case of
emulsions. increases brightness,
Recommended use level: luster and colour of skin
3%

FR 2 843 023 – WO 2004/012650 –

Patent: improves
EP 1 555 999 – JP 4099173 skin radiance
www.sederma.com
E-mail: sederma@sederma.fr
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Sederma. All rights reserved.
Part of Croda International Plc.
 CLAIM SUBSTANTIATION 09-2014

In vitro tests
Anti-glycation power of Kombuchka™ Stimulation of adipocyte differentiation
Control 3% Kombuchka™
Inhibition of glycation reaction 79%
with 3% Kombuchka™

“Lipofilling” by adipocyte differentiation

Culture of fibroblasts in the presence of a differentiation cocktail and 3%
Kombuchka™.
Measurement of G3PDH (marker for adipocyte maturation from
fibroblasts) activity. Kombuchka™ increases adipocyte population in the skin and
thus restores volume of the deficient zones.
G3PDH activity increases by 136%

In vivo tests
Decrease of skin roughness D0 D14
14 volunteers. Twice daily application (to the face) of a cream containing
3% Kombuchka™ against placebo for 29 days.
Evaluation with image analysis at D0, D14 and D29.

Kombuchka™ significantly smoothes the micro-depressionnary

network of the skin by 16.2% after 29 days.
Improvement of radiance by sensory analysis
16 women. Twice daily application (to the face) of a cream containing 3% Kombuchka™. Evaluation in standardised environment at D0 and D29 by 3
trained experts. Quantified analysis of 3 separate parameters thought to characterise a fresh and radiant complexion: luminosity, clarity and skin colour
(validated method, Spincontrol).
Skin colour Improvement of luminosity and clarity
Study evaluating the variations in skin colour using Pantone® type scale of 4 principal colours 5
of the skin. +11.6%
+15% The increase of
Colour Results Comments
luminosity and
Red n.s. no generation of blotchiness clarity
Beige n.s. no modification of pigmentation 4 was perceived
Olive -23% skin tone less dull for 75% and 81.3%
Clear pink +20% fresher-looking complexion
of volunteers.

With less of the olive and more of the pink colour component, 3
the skin has lost some of its tired look and D0 D29 D0 D29
acquires a more glowing complexion. Luminosity Clarity

Formulation
Fresh Complexion Cream with Kombuchka™ Tested formula ref. : SED0207312D
Part A ................................................................................................ % Part E ................................................................................................ %
Water deionised qsp 100 Potassium sorbate 0.10
Ultrez 10 (Carbomer, Noveon) 0.40 Part F ................................................................................................ %
Part B ................................................................................................ % Water deionised 6.00
Glycerin 5.00 Sodium hydroxide 30% 0.60
Preservatives qs Part G ................................................................................................ %
Part C ................................................................................................ % Kombuchka™ (Sederma) 4.00
Cyclomethicone 3.00 Part H ................................................................................................ %
Pemulen TR2 (Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate 0.20 Perfum 4.00
Cross Polymer, Noveon)
Protocol:
Part D ................................................................................................ % Part A: Disperse Ultrez 10 into water and let swell for 15 minutes. Melt Part
Crodamol OP (Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Croda) 4.00 B, add into Part A and heat to 75°C in water-bath. Mix Part D, heat to 75°C
in water-bath and pour into Parts (A+B). Then add Part C extemporanouesly.
Crodacol CS90 (Cetearyl Alcohol, Croda) 1.00 Homogenize well. Add Part E, neutralize with Part F. Homogenize well; then at
Crodamol ML (Myristyl Lactate, Croda) 0.30 35°C add Part G and H.
Tween 20 (Polysorbate 20, Croda) 1.00
Non-guarantee:
This formulation has been subjected to limited stability tests and has been shown to perform well. However formulators adopting this approach should ensure to their own satisfaction long term stability and functionality. It is good practice to conduct safety tests on all final formulations
prior to marketing. Suggested uses should not be taken as an inducement to infringe any existing patents.

Non-warranty: The information in this publication is believed to be accurate and is given in good faith, but no representation or warranty as to its completeness or accuracy
is made. Suggestions for uses or applications are only opinions. Users are responsible for determining the suitability of these products for their own particular purpose. No
representation or warranty, expressed or implied, is made with respect to information or products including, without limitation, warranties of merchantability, fitness for a
29 rue du Chemin Vert particular purpose, non-infringement of any third party patent or other intellectual property rights including, without limit, copyright, trademark and designs. Any trademarks
78612 Le Perray-en-Yvelines cedex France identified herein, unless otherwise noted, are trademarks of the Croda group of companies. ©2018 Sederma 04/18 PCS PO 013 V1 EN
Tel. : +33 (0)1 34 84 10 10 Reproduction of all or part of this document without the express prior written consent of Sederma is strictly prohibited.