Assignment On

Quality Control System Of Textile Industry (Mention Different

Samples Like Fibre, Yarn, Grey Fabric & Dyed Fabric & Garments
Sample & Describe Each Of The Sample Evaluation Criteria In
Case Of Quality Control).

Name: Masnun Matin Anik

ID: 181014038
Sub: TTQ-3 (TE-406)
Lecturer: Md. Faisal Mahmud
Introduction:
Quality means customer needs is to be satisfied. Failure to maintain an adequate quality standard
can therefore be unsuccessful. But maintaining an adequate standard of quality also costs effort.
From the first investigation to find out what the potential customer for a new product really
wants, through the processes of design, specification, controlled manufacture and sale.

There are a number of factors on which quality fitness of garment industry is based such as -
performance, reliability, durability, visual and perceived quality of the garment. Quality needs to
be defined in terms of a particular framework of cost.

In the garment industry quality control is practiced right from the initial stage of sourcing raw
materials to the stage of final finished garment. For textile and apparel industry product quality is
calculated in terms of quality and standard of fibres, yarns, fabric construction, colour fastness,
surface designs and the final finished garment products. However quality expectations for export
are related to the type of customer segments and the retail outlets.
Objectives:
1. To maximize the production of goods within the specified tolerances correctly the first
time. 
2. To achieve a satisfactory design of the fabric or garment in relation to the level of choice
in design, styles, colours, suitability of components and fitness of product for the market.

Requirements:
The Quality System Requirements are based on the principle of PDCA Cycle.

Process Cycle

1. Understanding the customers' quality requirements.

2. Organizing & training quality control department.
3. Ensuring proper flow of quality requirements to the QC department.
4. Ensuring proper flow of quality requirements to the Production Department.
5. Establishing quality plans, parameters, inspection systems, frequency, sampling
techniques, etc..
6. Inspection, testing, measurements as per plan.
7. Record deviations
8. Feed back to Production Department.
9. Plan for further improvement.

Establishing the Quality Requirements:

The first step for quality control is to understand, establish & accept the customers' quality
requirements. This involves the following steps.

1. Getting customers specifications regarding the quality

2. Referring our past performance
3. Discussing with the Quality Control Department
4. Discussing with the Production Department
5. Giving the Feed Back to the customers
 6. Receiving the revised quality requirements from the customers
7. Accepting the quality parameters

Various Steps of Inspection & Quality Control:

The following levels are discussed at the Garment Making Department assuming that this
department is receiving the ready to cut dyed & finished fabrics from the Dyeing & Finishing
Department.

Before or Pre-production Inspection

The following parameters & defects are checked prior to cutting.

1. Shade Matching
2. Fabric Construction
3. GSM (grams per square metre)
4. Whales & courses if required)
5. Diameter
6. Dyeing Levelness
7. Ecological parameters if required
8. Softness
9. Shrinkage
10. Matching of Rib, Collars & Cuffs
11. Fabric Holes
12. Vertical & Horizontal Stripes
13. Knitting defects such as missing loops, sinker lines, etc.
14. Bowing
15. Skewing
16. Yarn defects such as thick & thin places
17. Dirts & Stains

During Production Inspection

1. Verify cutting patterns
2. Cut components measurements
3. Cutting shapes
4. Fabric defects
5. Other specific parameters as required by the customers Rib, Collars & Cuffs matching
6. Stitching defects
7. Sewing threads matching
8. Dirts & Stains
9. Measurements
10. Labels
11. Trims & Accessories

Before Production Inspection

Many of the important parameters of Pre-productions, During productions & Final inspection
parameters. This is to ensure that wrong or major defective garments are not packed.

Final Inspection
A. PACKING & ASSORTMENT
1. Wrong Model
2. Wrong Quantity
3. Missing labels & tags
4. Wrong Size & Colour assortment
5. Wrong Folding

B. FABRIC DEFECTS
1. Wrong Shade
2. Uneven dyeing
3. Holes
4. Knitting stripes
5. Thick & Thin places
6. Dirt & Stains
7. Oil stains
8. Sinker line
9. Poor softness
10. Higher Shrinkage
11. Crease Marks

C. WORKMANSHIP DEFECTS
1. Open seam
2. Puckering
3. Needle holes & marks
4. Unbalanced sleeve edge
5. Unbalanced placket
6. Insecure shoulder stitch
7. Incorrect side shape
8. Bottom hem bowing
9. Uneven neck shape
10. Cross labels
11. Broken & Missing stitch
12. Insecured buttons
13. Untrimmed threads & fabrics
14. Poor Ironing
15. Double stitch
D. GENERAL DEFECTS
1. Shade variation within the garment parts
2. Shade variation between the garments
3. Defective printing
4. Defective embroidery
5. Defective buttons

E. MEASUREMENT DEVIATIONS 
Compare the garment measurements against the Customers' Measurement Charts.
Following are the some of the important garments' measurement aspects to be considered.

1. Garment length
2. Body width
3. Shoulder length
4. Arm hole
5. Arm Opening
6. Sleeve length
7. Placket length
8. Placket width
9. Neck width
10. Neck opening
11. Hemming width
12. IRib or Collar width

AQL ( Acceptable Quality Level )

A certain proportion of defective will always occur in any manufacturing process. If the
percentage does not exceed a certain limit, it will be economical to allow the defective to go
through instead of screening the entire lot. This limit is called the "Acceptable Quality Level"
( AQL )

Considering the practical & economic aspects, Sampling Techniques are adopted to Accept or
Reject a Lot on the basis of the Samples drawn at Random from the lot. It has been found and
accepted that a scientifically designed sampling & inspection plan protects a Manufacturer as
well as the Buyer economically.

American Military Standards known as MIL-STD-105A to 105E is accepted world-wide for

sampling sizes. It has the following sample size levels. Normally for Garment Industry 105D or
105E are followed.

1. Special Inspection Levels ( S1, S2, S3 & S4 )

2. General Inspection Levels ( I, II & III )
3. It has various AQL levels from 0.040 to 25 for Accepting or Rejecting the lots. Normally
for Garment industry, the AQL levels of 2.5, 4.0 and 6.5 are followed.
Ecological Parameters:
Now all the Customers are asking for Ecological Parameters. Now European Buyers are stressing
this. Following are main Ecological Parameters to be considered.

1. pH range
2. Formaldehyde levels
3. Extractable heavy metals
4. Chlorinated phenols ( PCP, TeCP)
5. Forbidden Amines of MAK III A1& A2 categories
6. Pesticides
7. Chlorinated Organic carriers
8. Biocide finishes
9. Flame retardant finishes
10. Colour fastness to Water
11. Colour fastness to acid & alkali perspiration
12. Colour fastness to wet & dry rubbing
13. Colour fastness to saliva
14. Emission of volatile chemicals
15. Other specific parameters as required by the customers

Grey Fabric

Process Definition:

Grey fabric inspection is the process of identifying weaving faults in the fabric just after the grey

fabric production in the loom.

Equipment:

1. Inspection table

2. Fabric inspection machine(Nazer, L 90P, Pakistan)

Key Accessories

Nipper, Pointer, Cutter, Comb etc.

Safety measures:

1. Smoking inside the inspection area is strictly prohibited.

2. Fire extinguishers are placed in the inspection area and all are trained to use it.

3. No fabric stack is placed in front of electric panels.

Inspection procedure

Operation staff:

Cloth doffer, cloth mender, inspector

Machine set up:

Machine set up Parameter range Set value

1) Roller speed 100-1500 rev/hour. 590-600 rev/hour.

2) Light N/A Artificial light

3) Length measuring meter N/A Attached with the machine.

Checks list before inspection:

1. 1 .Machine parameters are set

2. Man power is made available

3. All the tools/accessories are made available

4. Fabric is made ready for inspection.

Method:
1. As the fabric reaches its “set cut length” in the loom the cloth is cut and the cloth roll is

doffed off from the loom.

2. The cloth roll might also be cut and doffed off before the preset length as and when it is

needed.

3. According to set rule the “cloth doffer” cuts and doffs off cloth roll and record the doff length

in the loom quality/doffing card and also sticks a doffing stickers over the cloth roll for

identification.

4. The roll is then unrolled over the inspection table where it is visually checked yard to yard

(100%) against light and repaired or mended for any smaller extent of faults like protruding

or projecting yarn, yarn naps, slubs, crack, floats, oil stains which can’t be repaired, the fault

area is identified by putting yarn tails or laces in the selvedge area.

5. The mended fabric is then inspected over the grey fabric inspection machine visually against

light in a pre-set speed (m/min).

Investigation:

In the inspection table the operator finds out faults in the fabric and analyses their intensity by
visual

inspection. Some of the common weaving faults are:

1. Stop mark

2. Pick faults, e.g.-miss pick and double pick.

3. Wrong density /drawing

4. Pattern or design break

5. Selvedge faults, e.g.-lashing in, cut selvedge.

6. Oil stain.

7. Crack, hole
8. Missing ends

9. Slubs.

As per standard, designed and set by Q.C. department of BTL, the intensity of some of the major
and

common weaving faults are marked with points (Numerical value ) ranging 1 to 6,6being the
highest

point for every faults. The defects found and the points given against them are recorded in the
grey

fabric inspection sheet in the case of solid dyed fabric and in yarn dyed fabric inspection sheet
for

yarn dyed fabric. The measured length, fabric sort, yarn lot, machine number etc. are also written

down at the tail end of each fabric piece. Apart from these two forms another from called grey
fabric

inspection daily production sheet is filled to keep the record of total inspected grey fabric in the
shifts

in a day. At the bottom of this sheet total amount of rejection is also shown. All the data entered
in

this form are done according to various sort, construction and quality.

Acceptance of fabric:

· Any piece of fabric with the rating of total 36 points faults per 100 linear meter is allowed to

pass as ‘A’ grade fabric. 36-50 is the point range for ‘B’ grade fabric.

· Any piece having more than 50 points is graded as ‘C’ which is rejected.

· A minimum of 20 meter ‘A’ grade fabric is allowed to pass with other long pieces. Pieces

less than 20 meter is recorded as cut pieces.

Rejection of fabric:

Any area of the fabric that contains-

1. Objectionable (too frequent) presence of weaving faults like stop/starting mark and pick
faults.

2. Oil or grease spot.

3. Crack/holes, floats and warp end miss etc. are cut to a separate pieces and recorded as

rejected.

Any fabric having points more than 50 is graded as “C” and also rejected.

Q.C. Sample test:

Q.C department of BTL monitors all these checks and recording systems.

Response to weaving faults:

As a response to any weaving faults and rejection , cloth inspector directly contacts with the head
or

in charge of the weaving department along with his report for immediate remedial measures.

Response to equipment faults:

Faults Response

1) Pin faults

2) Disturbance in roller tape

3) Disturbance in motor belt

4) Failure in the digital monitor

5) Fuse malfunction

6) Any electrical disturbance.

To inform maintenance, Mechanical

Engineer

Machine area cleaning:

Inspection area is cleaned twice a day by the helpers.

Storage:
The grey fabrics thus inspected are piled separately according to lot and sort/quality or
construction

and to store; store upon receiving the production sheet physically checks and receives the fabric