3rd INT. CONF.

ON INTEGRATION OF DESIGN, ENGINEERING & MANAGEMENT FOR INNOVATION

A.A. Fernandes, R.M. Natal Jorge, L. Patrício, A. Medeiros (Eds)
Porto, Portugal, 4-6th September 2013

Safety and Comfort Requirements for Earring Design: A review of Technical

Literature

Elisa Strobel 1, Susana Cristina Domenech 2 , Monique Vandresen3, Alexandre Amorim dos Reis 4 and
Marcelo Gitirana Gomes Ferreira 5
1Design Department, Santa Catarina State University; elisastrobel@gmail.com
2 Science & Health Department, Santa Catarina State University; scdomenech@gmail.com
3 Fashion Design Department, Santa Catarina State University; mvandresen@gmail.com
4 Design Department, Santa Catarina State University; a.a.reis@terra.com
5
Design Department, Santa Catarina State University; marcelo.gitirana@gmail.com

KEYWORDS: Human Factors, Earring Design, Safety, Comfort.

ABSTRACT: Earrings have been worn since prehistory, and the cultural habit of it’s use is related to
many injuries. This paper aims to summarize recommendations and project requirements for earring
design from 69 technical jewelry design references, concerning user safety and comfort related to earring
design. Five main categories of recommendations were distinguished: 1- General and Specfic Size and
Weight aspects; 2- Specific Fastening Systems Issues; 3- Component Positioning and Stability; 4-
Finishings and 5- Other Design Issues.

industry and artisanal aspects. Designers must

be aware of manufacturing technology,
1 INTRODUCTION materials and quality control, as well as Human
Earrings have probably been worn since Factors related aspects.
Prehistory. Rare are the periods where they have There is no current standard for earring
not been popular (MASCETI, TRIOSSI, 1999). development, except regarding materials. In
Many injuries and complications associated to jewelry as a whole, only finger rings have sizing
the cultural habit of wearing them have been standards (UNTRACHT, 2001). There are,
reported by the medical community however, many technical publications offering
(CORTESE, DICKEY, 1971; HENDRICKS, earring project guidance.
1991; MACGREGOR, 2001) and many This article aims to summarize the information
surgical techniques were developed to correct concerning earring design, brought forth by
and revert the physical trauma associated to the technical books, written by jewelry design
use of these artefacts as well (REITER, professionals.
ALFORD, 1994; APESOS, KANE, 1993).
McGrath (1993) and Untracht (2001) say that 2 EARRING TYPES
most of the manufacturing methods used by The hoop, a ring worn at an ear hole, is the jewel
worldwide Jewelry makers have not changed which the term Earring was originally referring
much over the centuries and require very simple to (BREPOHL, 2008). Most authors such as
tools. Untracht (2001), Gollberg (2006) and Brepohl
Kliauga (2009) highlights that jewelry making (2008) distinguish earring categories by the
is not only an artistic process, but also involves type of fastening system, whether others also
 STROBEL, S.; DOMENECH, S. C. and VANDRESEN, M.

divide them by aesthetic style (OLVER, 2000; Ear hooks are also called “French wires” or
MANCEBO, 2008). “Fishhook ear wires”. Variations of hooks are
On this work the fastening system classification shown in Figure 2.
will be adopted. They are categorized as: 1-
“Pierced ears fastening systems” and 2-“Non-
pierced ears fastening systems”. There are
projects in the market that convert pierced to
non-pierced fastening systems, and vice versa
(ARISTIDES, IRVINE, 2007). In any fastening
system configuration, earrings can still be
divided in A-“One-piece earrings” and B- Figure 2 – Ear hook types according to Brepohl,
(2008.)
“Dangling earrings”.
All sorts of off-the-shelf fastening systems and
The most popular “non-pierced ears fastening
components, called findings, are available in
systems” are spring pressure ear clips and
specialized stores. Findings are generally used
screw-type pressure earring systems, as shown
among the jeweler community.
in figures 3 and 4. The screw type allows the
For reference only, some of the most usual types
pressure to be adjusted by the user.
of fastening systems will be briefly addressed
There are also hybrid systems, as the Omega,
on this paper. Some of the most popular
which combines a post and a clip, similar to the
“pierced-ears fastening systems” are the ear
model presented on the figure 3b, but instead
posts, ear hooks and ear hoops. As shown in
the semi-sphere, an ear post is soldered in its
figure 1, there are many variations of ear posts:
place. In this system the clip plays the role of
threaded or slick, always used with an earring
the earring backs. Other options are the stick-on
back (also called butterfly, scroll or nut). A
and magnetic earrings (SAMPSON,
special type of earring back is the La Pussette,
NEEDHAM, 2012).
represented in figure 1d, on which one must
press a small “button” to release the earring.

Figure 3 – Ear clip types according to Brepohl, (2008.)

Figure 3 – Ear clip types according to Brepohl, (2008.)

Figure 1 – Earpost types according to Brepohl, (2008.)

Morton (1970), and Untracht (2001) mention

the unusual Wing back type (Figure 4), which is
 STROBEL, S.; DOMENECH, S. C. and VANDRESEN, M.

a wire conformed to lay inside the ear, hanging 4 METHODOLOGY

from the cartilage. These earrings can`t be worn For this study, a list of jewelry technical books
on either ear (there is a right-ear earring and a was brought together by searching on online
left-ear earring) and are not very popular bookstores. Books published after 1980 and
because requires a considerably higher number accessible through local libraries in the research
of individual adjustments for each user. period (Jan-May 2013) were analysed and some
were acquired (a complete list of the reviewed
literature is available in Appendix I). Only one
reference published after 1980, Morton (1970),
was kept because it’s one of the first references
on which this work begun. Literature containing
information about jewelry design and
manufacture was included. Works containing
only aesthetic reference and historical content,
or which had only partial access were excluded
from the review.
Untracht (2001) divides jeweler professionals
under two main categories: metal-working
Figure 4 – Wing back system (Morton, 1970.)
jewellers and non-metal-working jewelers.
Both categories were treated on this review.
In addition to those, many other systems are
Despite the fact that metal-working jewelers
available on the Market.
usually employ more complex techniques and
tools, making the non-metal-working jewellery
3 COMPLICATIONS RELATED TO THE
much more accessible, the final use of the
USE OF EARRINGS
artifact is the same and the same care must be
Biggar and Haughie (1975) estimated that 80%
taken on the final product project and
to 90% of world’s feminine population has at
manufacture.
least one ear pierced for ornament usage. These
In addition to Morton, 68 books met the
numbers are consistent to more recent estimates
inclusion criteria, making a total of 69 books
made by Simplot and Hoffman (1998) through
being examined.
data collection among nurses in the University
Earring project requirements related to Human
of Iowa Hospital (522 respondents). Among
Factors include all specifications related to
subjects with perforated ears, 35% reported
Anthropometrics, freedom of movement, injure
some sort of complication. The average age
prevention, general bothering and discomfort.
found on the study for the first ear piercing
These aspects were researched on this literature
(including earlobe) was 18.3 years (SIMPLOT,
review. Many authors presented information
HOFFMAN, 1998).
indirectly, for example regarding sizing in their
According to McGregor (2001) and Lane and
step-by-step instructions. These were also
O`Toole (2011), complications may include
considered. Material issues were put aside, once
local infection, bleeding, dermatitis, torn ears
they are already standardized, as well as
and embedded earrings as the most common,
aesthetic issues, which vary according to
and many others such as oedema and
personal taste, therefore these aspects are out of
haematoma formation, keloids, allergies, etc.
the scope of this work.
Despite all complications that may result from
the use of earrings, possibly even leading to
5 FINDINGS/RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
more serious trauma like lobule laceration,
Among the 69 reviewed works, only 29
many patients still persist in using the
mentioned directly or indirectly any sort of
adornment (LANE e O’TOOLE, 2011).
earring safety, or comfort recommendation. It is
 STROBEL, S.; DOMENECH, S. C. and VANDRESEN, M.

important to mention, that most authors suggest space is needed when using the La Poussette
the use of off-the-shelf components. earring back, which is slimmer (BREPOHL,
For better understanding, it was possible to 2008), and a post too long in this case would
identify five main project recommendation hurt the users scalp. The smallest earring post
categories for earrings, although their length was recommended as 9,5mm
boundaries are not rigidly set: (1) concerning (GOLLBERG, 2010) but varying according to
weight and size; (2) concerning specific project requirements; the upper limit was
fastening systems issues; (3) concerning 13mm, as suggested by Salem (2002b) yet
component positioning and stability; (4) considering that part of this length will be
concerning finishings; (5) other design issues. intercepting the ornamental part (see table 1).

Length Mentioned by
5.1 GENERAL AND SPECIFIC SIZE AND (mm) (Authors, year)
9,5mm GOLLBERG, 2010
WEIGHT ASPECTS 10mm BERENGUER, 2004;
BONE, 2012;
5.1.1 WEIGHT COLES, 1999
Ten authors highlighted that earrings should not 12mm MCGRATH, 2003
13mm SALEM,2002
be too heavy, but not all have attributed a PECK, DICKERSON, 2011
quantitative recommendation. According to Table 1 - Earring post length
Untracht (2001) “The weight that different
people can tolerate in any single piece of
5.1.3 EAR WIRE DIAMETERS
jewelry varies considerably”. Morton (1970),
Wire diameters (for post and hooks as well)
on the other hand, states that excessive weight
recommendations varied considerably, from the
must be avoided regardless of the size of the
minimum limit established: 0,5mm (MORTON,
earring. Specific values were set by three of the
1970; MANCEBO, 2008) to the maximum:
researched authors: Olver (2000), Mancebo
1mm (BREPOHL, 20012; BONE, 2012).
(2008) and Copruchinski (2011). Copruchinski
Sampson and Needham (2012) defend that
(2011) advises that earrings meant to be worn
larger diameter ear posts could lessen the
the whole day should not weight more than 7g
chances of the ear being torn. The Values found
on each ear, but the author says that “still there
are summarized in Table 2.
are people that wear far more heavier
earrings”. Mancebo (2008) and Olver (2000)
Diameter Mentioned by
warn that it is ideal for an earring not to weight ( AWG, mm) (Authors, year)
more than 10g on each ear, so it doesn`t turn out 24 gauge MORTON, 1970
(0.51mm) or MANCEBO, 2008
uncomfortable and doesn`t present risk of 0.5mm
earlobe torning. For children though, Mancebo 22 gauge MORTON, 1970
(2008) tells that most earrings weight between (0.64mm) MCCREIGHT, 1982
DISMORE, POWLEY, 2008
1g and 1,2g, sometimes 2g when with dangling 21 gauge MANCEBO, 2008;
parts. Mancebo (2008) and Morton (1970) also (0.72mm) or CODINA, 2000
highlight that weight and fastening systems 0.7mm DISMORE, POWLEY, 2008
0.75mm MCGRATH, 2003
should be coordinated, as explained in the next 20 gauge COLES, 1999;
sections. (0.81mm) or OLVER, 2000;
0.8mm MCGRATH, 2003;
CHANDLER, RITCHEY, 2005;
GOLLBERG, 2006,2010;
5.1.2 EAR POST LENGTH BREPOHL, 2008;
About other dimensional aspects, Brepohl MANCEBO, 2008;
YOUNG,2008;
(2008) says that it is necessary to make sure
BOGERT, 2009
there is enough place for the user`s lobe, so the SEECHARRAN, 2010;
earring doesn`t become uncomfortable. Less DOUGHERTY, 2011
 STROBEL, S.; DOMENECH, S. C. and VANDRESEN, M.

PECK, DICKERSON, 2011 ear and tend not to sit well, so larger earrings
BONE, 2012
RICHBOURG, 2012 should be hollow.
19 gauge COLES, 1999;
(0.91mm) or SALEM, 2002b; 5.2 SPECIFIC FASTENING SYSTEMS
0,9mm YOUNG,2008;
ISSUES
GOLLBERG, 2010;
BONE, 2012
1.0mm BREPOHL, 2008; 5.2.1 FASTENING SYSTEMS AND HEAVY
BONE, 2012 EARRINGS
Table 2 - Earwire diameter
French Wires, or Earhooks were considered
inappropriate for supporting heavy earrings
5.1.4 EARRING LENGTH (COPRUCHINSKI, 2011; MANCEBO, 2008).
No author pointed out an maximum earring Mancebo also considered ear posts
length, but Morton (1970) highlights that, inappropriate for heavy earrings as well.
beside the client`s personal taste, the client`s The Omega fastening system, which combines
neck length must also be considered. an earpost and a clip, was found to be the best
solution for heavy earrings by Morton (1970),
5.1.5 EAR STUDS Olver (2000) and Copruchinski (2011), but the
For ear stud type earrings, which use the post pressure on clip systems shouldn`t be too
fastening system and is characterized by sitting strong. Alternatively, a lager earring back
on the ear (not hanging), Mancebo (2008) and should be used in case of a heavy ear stud.
Olver (2000) advise that they`re size should be Morton (1970) Considers the Wing back type a
proportioned to the earlobe and should not great option for heavy earrings, once the weight
bother the user. is not supported by the earlobe.

5.1.6 EAR HOOKS 5.2.2 PRESSURE EARRINGS SYSTEMS

Gollberg (2010) says that French wire lengths Pressure ear clips, for non-pierced ears, should
may vary considerably, Bone (2012) and Olver be adjusted for each user, including the
(2000) advise they should be long enough not to industrialized, so the user doesn`t feel pain
fall from the ear. Brepohl (2008) advises that (BREPOHL, 2008; UNTRACHT. 2001).
the wire end opposing to the ornament should According to Brepohl (2008), this comfort
be a little bit longer if no closure system is being boundary should be guided by the user`s
used, which is not necessary if there is an perception. On this feature, screw type pressure
earring back or a closure system made in wire. earrings have the advantage of allowing
For those hooks to be used without closure adjustment by the user.
systems McCreight (1982) advises a 25mm Only Clip-on fittings were not considered safe
long hook. enough to secure precious metal earrings
Concerning the curve that will lay on the (BREPOHL, 2008).
earhole, Coles (1999) recommends a diameter
of 10mm while Bogert (2009) suggests 6mm,
and other authors, as Chandler and Ritchey 5.2.3 CHILDREN
(2004) and Peck and Dickerson (2011) use the For children, Mancebo (2008) advises special
curvature of a pencil or pen to curve the hook, baby earring backs, which are threaded and do
or the pliers curvature (BONE, 2012). cover the post ends, so they don`t hurt the child
in the scalp.
5.1.7 HOOPS
Regarding Hoop diameter, Aristides and Irvine 5.2.4 EAR POSTS
(2007) considered 12-20mm to be a good size For earring posts used with friction nuts, a small
for daywear, and big hoops are 30-50mm. Olver groove, from about 2mm from the post end
(2000) remarks that heavy hoops can pull on the (opposite from the ornamental side) should be
 STROBEL, S.; DOMENECH, S. C. and VANDRESEN, M.

made, so the earring back doesn`t slip away earring should be too heavy, for it will drag the
(SALEM, 2002b; MCCREIGHT, 1982; ear down and distort the earlobe, or tilt the
COLES, 1999), for McGrath (1993), this earring away from the earlobe.
groove should be at 1/3 from the post`s total For pressure earrings also, Gollberg (2006)
length. adverts that the hinge and paddle should be well
Salem (2002b) advises that the whole post placed, so that the earring sits nicely on the lobe.
should be threaded when manufacturing a Mancebo (2008) remarks the importance of
screw-type post fastening system. jump ring positioning, which if not paid
attention to, may ruin the earring stability and
5.3 COMPONENT POSITIONING AND balance.
STABILITY
For the earring to hang nicely on the ear, 5.4 FINISHINGS
McGrath (2003) suggests that the jeweler A finishing concern is that earwire ends (all
should find the earring`s center of mass to fix types, posts, hooks and hoops) should be
the post, and explains that this could be done by rounded, in order not to harm the scalp of the
resting the earring on a table corner. However, user, or the earlobe canal while wearing or
different shapes, sizes and weights require putting on the earring (BONE, 2012;
special attention regarding their stability and BREPOHL, 2008; MANCEBO, 2008; PECK,
sitting on the earlobe. DICKERSON, 2011; DISMORE, POWLEY,
The characteristics mentioned above must be 2008; COLES, 1999).
carefully taken in consideration for positioning Another issue highlighted by Olver (2002) is
the post (OLVER, 2000). For lightweight small that earring details which could catch loose
earrings, Copruchinski (2011) advises that the clothing threads and hair, or scratch the neck
ear post can be positioned on the center, or should be paid attention to or even avoided.
above the center of the earring. On the the other Dismore and Powley (2008) advise their
hand, long earrings must have their posts fixed readers to check “cracked or nicked” beads
above the center, so the earring doesn`t flip and before starting to assemble jewelry pieces,
turns out uncomfortable (Copruchinski, 2011). because these broken beads could snag the
This is valid as well for very heavy earrings user’s hair and clothes. McGreight (1997)
(MORTON, 1970). Olver (2000) suggests that emphasizes the importance of a good stone
depending on individual situations, that is, the setting, so no hair or clothes get caught by the
earlobe thickness and the earhole position, the jewelry.
post might have to be repositioned.
Weight issues affect stability directly, Untracht 5.5 OTHER DESIGN ISSUES
(2001) says that this may be controlled to some Other design aspects concerning handling
extent in a piece of jewelry with weight issues were mentioned by Olver (2000), when
distribution and balance. As mentioned earlier, advising that stone set earrings should have
Omega fastening systems are advised for heavy access to the back of the gem so they may be
earrings, because they better distribute the better cleaned. One other handling issue
weight, do a much better job securing the mentioned by the same author is the difficulty
earring and avoid earring rotation, resulting in that a certain type of hoop (the whole hoop
better balance and stability (OLVER, 2000; without a hinge closing system) may present to
COPRUCHINSKI, 2011). For small heavy opening and closing. Olver (2000) advises that
earrings, where an Omega system doesn`t fit, instructions regarding product handling and
the authors advise larger earring backs. maintenance should accompany the product
According to Morton (1970), ear studs should when sold.
by no means be top-heavy, so they don`t tip over Further issues are displayed by authors as
the earlobe. For Olver (2000) no pierced-type product characteristics that could bother the
 STROBEL, S.; DOMENECH, S. C. and VANDRESEN, M.

user. Dismore and Powley (2008) have changed The authors thank the State University of Santa
a design in their step-by step book because it Catarina and Capes (Coordination of
“poked too much behind the ears.” As well Improvement of Higher Education Personnel)
Olver (2000) highlights that when designing for their support.
dangling earrings, issues like the sound
produced by the earrings when the user is
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KARON, K. Chain Maille: Jewelry Workshop. Interweave Press,

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DAY, Chrissie. Wire Jewelry. North Light Books, USA, 2008 MCREIGHT, Tim. Metalworking for jewelry: tools, materials,
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GOLLBERG, Joanna. The Ultimate Jeweler's Guide. . Lark MOSES, Linda Kaye. Pure silver Metal Clay - Beads. Creative
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HAAB, Sherri. Designer style jewelry: techniques and projects OLVER, Elizabeth. The Jeweller's Directory of Shape and Form.
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SALEM, Carlos. Jóias: criação e modelagem. 2000jóias, São

Paulo, Brasil, 2002a.

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Designing and Metal Working. Delhi: Academic Pages, India,
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kitchen-table jeweler. Joe Silveria, USA, 2010.

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Hale & Company, Great Britain, 2001.

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Inspiration. Lark Books, New York, USA, 2003.

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Joyería / Jewelry Techniques: The Essential Guide to Choosing
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