ENGINE 5.7L - Service Information - Ram Pickup PDF
ENGINE 5.7L - Service Information - Ram Pickup PDF
ENGINE 5.7L - Service Information - Ram Pickup PDF
2014 ENGINE
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
The 5.7L engine (348 CID) eight-cylinder engine is a 90° V-Type lightweight, deep skirt cast iron block,
aluminum heads, single cam, overhead valve engine with hydraulic roller tappets. The heads incorporate
splayed valves with a hemispherical style combustion chamber and dual spark plugs. The cylinders are
numbered from front to rear; 1, 3, 5, 7 on the left bank and 2, 4, 6, 8 on the right bank. The firing order is 1-8-4-
3-6-5-7-2.
Engine diagnosis is helpful in determining the causes of malfunctions not detected and remedied by routine
maintenance.
These malfunctions may be classified as either performance (e.g., engine idles rough and stalls) or mechanical
(e.g., a strange noise).
Refer to PERFORMANCE and MECHANICAL for possible causes and corrections of malfunctions.
Additional tests and diagnostic procedures may be necessary for specific engine malfunctions that can not be
isolated with the Service Diagnosis charts. Information concerning additional tests and diagnosis is provided
within the following diagnosis:
PERFORMANCE
NOTE: The results of a cylinder compression pressure test can be utilized to diagnose
several engine malfunctions.
NOTE: Be certain the battery is completely charged and the engine starter motor is in
good operating condition. Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
5. Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate the engine with the engine starter motor for three
revolutions.
6. Record the compression pressure on the 3rd revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylinders.
7. Compression should not be less than 689 kPa (100 psi) and not vary more than 25 percent from cylinder
to cylinder.
8. If one or more cylinders have abnormally low compression pressures, repeat the compression test.
NOTE: If the same cylinder or cylinders repeat an abnormally low reading on the
second compression test, it could indicate the existence of a problem in
the cylinder in question.
9. If one or more cylinders continue to have abnormally low compression pressures, perform the cylinder
combustion pressure leakage test. Refer to CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE .
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an accurate means for determining engine condition.
1. Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO NOT install the radiator cap.
2. Start and operate the engine until it attains normal operating temperature.
3. Turn the engine OFF.
4. Remove the spark plugs.
5. Remove the oil filler cap.
6. Remove the air cleaner hose.
7. Calibrate the tester according to the manufacturer's instructions. The shop air source for testing
should maintain a regulated air pressure at 552 kPa (80 psi).
8. Perform the test procedures on each cylinder according to the tester manufacturer's instructions. Set the
piston of the cylinder to be tested at TDC compression.
9. During the testing, listen for pressurized air escaping through the throttle body, tailpipe and oil filler cap
opening. Check for bubbles in the radiator coolant.
All gauge pressure indications should be equal, with no more than 25% leakage.
FOR EXAMPLE: Input air at 552 kPa (80 psi), the primary gauge factory set at 207 kPa (30 psi) input
pressure. The secondary gauge should have no more than 176 kPa (25.5 psi) loss, when connected to the
cylinder.
LUBRICATION
MECHANICAL
STANDARD PROCEDURE .
3. Low oil pressure 3. Check engine oil level. If OK,
perform engine oil pressure test.
Refer to CHECKING ENGINE
OIL PRESSURE .
4. Debris in tappets/lash adjusters 4. Clean/replace hydraulic
tappets/lash adjusters.
5. Bent push rod(s) 5. Install new push rods.
6. Worn rocker arms 6. Inspect oil supply to rocker
arms and replace worn arms as
needed.
7. Worn tappets/lash adjusters 7. Install new hydraulic
tappets/lash adjusters.
8. Worn valve guides 8. Inspect all valve guides and
replace as necessary.
9. Excessive runout of valve seats 9. Grind valves and seats.
or valve faces
CONNECTING ROD NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Low oil pressure 2. Check engine oil level. If OK,
Perform engine oil pressure test.
Refer to CHECKING ENGINE
OIL PRESSURE .
3. Thin or diluted oil 3. Change oil to correct viscosity.
Refer to OIL, STANDARD
PROCEDURE .
4. Excessive connecting rod 4. Measure bearings for correct
bearing clearance clearance with plasti-gage. Repair
as necessary.
5. Connecting rod journal out of 5. Replace crankshaft or grind
round journals.
6. Misaligned connecting rods 6. Replace bent connecting rods.
MAIN BEARING NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Low oil pressure 2. Check engine oil level. If OK,
Perform engine oil pressure test.
Refer to CHECKING ENGINE
OIL PRESSURE .
3. Thin or diluted oil 3. Change oil to correct viscosity.
4. Excessive main bearing 4. Measure bearings for correct
clearance clearance. Repair as necessary.
5. Excessive end play 5. Check crankshaft thrust
bearing for excessive wear on
flanges.
6. Crankshaft main journal out of 6. Grind journals or replace
round or worn crankshaft.
NOTE: Engine noise may be in the form of a clicking, chatter, or clattering noise.
2. Listen to the engine for 30 to 60 seconds with the hood up and the engine cover removed.
3. If noise is present, de-aeration of the lifters is required.
4. Run the engine between 2000 and 3000 RPM for three to five minutes.
5. Return the engine to standard idle speed for 30 to 60 seconds.
6. Evaluate noise. If noise is present, repeat the run an additional 4 cycles.
NOTE: The standard drive cycle will be about 10 - 15 miles of non- stop, combined
highway and city driving.
NOTE: Use a feeler gauge to verify clearance is present between the lifter and
cam base circle.
8. Evaluate the noise. If noise present, follow standard service procedure for lifter repairs or noise
conditions.
9. Evaluate lifters for sponginess, check valve defects, and clearance.
The following diagnostic procedures are used to determine the source of excessive internal oil Consumption,
these procedures and tests apply to vehicles with 50, 000 miles or less.
NOTE: Engine oil consumption may be greater than normal during engine break-in.
Repairs should be delayed until vehicle has been driven at least 7, 500 miles.
Severe service (high ambient temperature, short trips, heavy loading, trailer towing, taxi, off-road, or law
enforcement use) may result in greater oil consumption than normal.
Sustained high speed driving and high engine RPM operation may result in increased oil consumption.
Failure to comply with the recommended oil type and viscosity rating, as outlined in the owner's Manual,
may impact oil economy as well as fuel economy.
Oil consumption may increase with vehicle age and mileage due to normal engine wear.
NOTE: Because a few drops of external oil leakage per mile can quickly account for the
loss of one quart of oil in a few hundred miles, ensure no external engine oil
leaks are present.
Oil leakage is not the same as oil consumption and all external leakage must be eliminated before
any action can be taken to verify and/or correct oil consumption complaints.
Verify that the engine has the correct oil level dipstick and dipstick tube installed.
Verify that the engine is not being run in an overfilled condition. Check the oil level 15 minutes
after a hot shutdown with the vehicle parked on a level surface. In no case should the level be above
MAX or the FULL mark on the dipstick.
1. Check the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system. Make sure the system is not restricted and the
PCV valve has the correct part number and correct vacuum source (18-20 in. Hg at idle below 3000 ft.
above sea level is considered normal).
2. Perform a cylinder compression test and cylinder leak down test using the standard leak down gauge
following manufacturers suggested best practices.
NOTE: Verify the spark plugs are not oil saturated. If the spark plugs are oil
saturated and compression is good it can be assumed the valve seals or
valve guides are at fault.
3. If one or more cylinders have more than 15% leak down further engine tear down and inspection will be
required.
The increased piston clearances permit the pistons to rock in the worn cylinders. While tilted
momentarily, an abnormally large volume of oil is permitted to enter on one side of the piston. The rings,
also tilted in the cylinder, permit oil to enter on one side. Upon reversal of the piston on each stroke, some
of this oil is passed into the combustion chamber.
2. Distorted Cylinders
This may be caused by unequal heat distribution or unequal tightening of cylinder head bolts. This
condition presents a surface which the rings may not be able to follow completely. In this case, there may
be areas where the rings will not remove all of the excess oil. When combustion takes place, this oil will
be burned and cause high oil consumption.
The main purpose of the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve is to recirculate blow-by gases back
from the crankcase area through the engine to consume unburned hydrocarbons. The PCV system usually
has a one way check valve and a make up air source. The system uses rubber hoses that route crankcase
blow by gases to the intake manifold. Vacuum within the engine intake manifold pulls the blow by gases
out of the crankcase into the combustion chamber along with the regular intake air and fuel mixture.
The PCV system can become clogged with sludge and varnish deposits and trap blow by gases in the
crankcase. This degrades the oil, promoting additional formation of deposit material. If left uncorrected,
the result is plugged oil rings, oil consumption, rapid ring wear due to sludge buildup, ruptured gaskets
and seals due to crankcase pressurization.
For piston rings to form a good seal, the sides of the ring grooves must be true and flat - not flared or
shouldered. Piston rings in tapered or irregular grooves will not seal properly and, consequently, oil will
pass around behind the rings into the combustion chamber.
When piston rings are broken, worn or stuck to such an extent that the correct tension and clearances are
not maintained, this will allow oil to be drawn into the combustion chamber on the intake stroke and hot
gases of combustion to be blown down the cylinder past the piston on the power stroke. All of these
conditions will result in burning and carbon build up of the oil on the cylinders, pistons and rings.
Cracked or broken ring lands prevent the rings from seating completely on their sides and cause oil
pumping. This condition will lead to serious damage to the cylinders as well as complete destruction of
the pistons and rings. Cracked or broken ring lands cannot be corrected by any means other than piston
replacement.
When wear has taken place on valve stems and valve guides, the vacuum in the intake manifold will draw
oil and oil vapor between the intake valve stems and guides into the intake manifold and then into the
cylinder where it will be burned.
Bent or misaligned connecting rods will not allow the pistons to ride straight in the cylinders. This will
prevent the pistons and rings from forming a proper seal with the cylinder walls and promote oil
consumption. In addition, it is possible that a bearing in a bent connect rod will not have uniform
clearance on the connecting rod wrist pin. Under these conditions, the bearing will wear rapidly and
throw off an excessive amount of oil into the cylinder.
9. Fuel Dilution
If raw fuel is allowed to enter the lubrication system, the oil will become thinner and more volatile and
will result in higher oil consumption. The following conditions will lead to higher oil consumption;
Excess fuel can enter and mix with the oil via a leaking fuel injector
Gasoline contaminated with diesel fuel
Restricted air intake
Excessive idling
10. Contaminated Cooling Systems
Corrosion, rust, scale, sediment or other formations in the water jacket and radiator will prevent a cooling
system from extracting heat efficiently. This is likely to cause cylinder distortion thus leading to higher
oil consumption.
The use of oil with a viscosity that is too light may result in high oil consumption. Refer to the vehicle
Owner's Manual for the proper oil viscosity to be used under specific driving conditions and/or ambient
temperatures.
Failure to change the oil and filter at proper intervals may cause the oil to be so dirty that it will promote
accumulation of sludge and varnish and restrict oil passages in the piston rings and pistons. This will
increase oil consumption; dirty oil by nature is also consumed at a higher rate than clean oil.
Due to an error in inserting the oil dip stick so that it does not come to a seat on its shoulder, a low
reading may be obtained. Additional oil may be added to make the reading appear normal with the stick
in this incorrect position which will actually make the oil level too high. If the oil level is so high that the
lower ends of the connecting rods touch the oil in the oil pan excessive quantities of oil will be thrown on
the cylinder walls and some of it will work its way up into the combustion chamber.
A faulty oil pressure relief valve may cause the oil pressure to be too high. The result will be that the
engine will be flooded with an abnormally large amount of oil in a manner similar to that which occurs
with worn bearings. This condition may also cause the oil filter to burst.
Increasing performance through the use of performance/power enhancement products to a stock or factory
engine will increase the chance of excessive oil consumption.
Lugging is running the engine at a lower RPM in a condition where a higher RPM (more power/torque)
should be implemented. Especially susceptible on vehicles equipped with a manual transmission. This
driving habit causes more stress loading on the piston and can lead to increases in engine oil
consumption.
There is a possibility for PCV "push-over" due to higher crankcase pressure (as compared to naturally
aspirated engines) which is normal for turbocharged engines. This condition causes varying amounts of
engine oil to enter the intake manifold, charge air cooler and associated plumbing to and from the charge
air cooler, also a leaking turbocharger seal will draw oil into the combustion chamber where it will burn
(blue smoke from tail pipe may be present) and form carbon deposits which contribute to further oil
consumption as they interfere with proper engine function.
Excessive restriction in the air intake system will increase engine vacuum and can increase oil
consumption, an extremely dirty air filter would be one example of this situation.
Engines that have a "V" configuration and a "wet valley" could draw oil into the intake ports due to
improper sealing between the intake manifold ports and cylinder head. Causes may include improper
torque of intake manifold bolts, corrosion (aluminum intake manifold) and or warped sealing surface.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
DUST COVERS AND CAPS
Fig. 1: Covers/Caps
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
Due to the high amounts of failures caused by dust, dirt, moisture and other foreign debris being introduced to
the engine during service. Covers or caps are needed to reduce the possible damage that can be caused or
created.
Covers over openings will reduce any possibilities for foreign materials to enter the engine systems. Using
miller tool (special tool #10368, Set, Universal Protective Cap), Select the appropriated cover needed to the
procedure.
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essentially, this repair consists of:
HYDROSTATIC LOCK
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock (regardless of what caused the problem), follow the steps
below.
1. Perform the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure. Refer to FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE RELEASE .
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable(s) from the battery.
3. Inspect air cleaner, induction system, and intake manifold to make sure the system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
4. Place a shop towel around the spark plugs to catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure in the
cylinder head. Remove the spark plugs.
5. With all spark plugs removed, rotate the crankshaft using a breaker bar and socket.
6. Identify the fluid in the cylinders (coolant, fuel, oil).
7. Make sure all fluid has been removed from the cylinders.
8. Repair engine or components as necessary to prevent this problem from occurring again.
9. Squirt a small amount of engine oil into the cylinders to lubricate the walls. This prevents damage on
restart.
10. Install new spark plugs. Tighten the spark plugs to 41 N.m (30 ft. lbs.).
11. Drain engine oil. Remove and discard the oil filter.
12. Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34 N.m (25 ft. lbs.).
13. Install a new oil filter.
14. Fill the engine crankcase with the specified amount and grade of oil. Refer to CAPACITIES AND
RECOMMENDED FLUIDS, SPECIFICATIONS .
15. Connect the negative battery cable(s).
16. Start the engine and check for any leaks.
NOTE: All sealants mentioned below are not used on every engine; they are listed as
There are numerous places where form-in-place gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken when
applying form-in-place gaskets to assure obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-place gasket
material unless specified. Bead size, continuity, and location are of great importance. Too thin of a bead can
result in leakage while too much can result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct fluid feed lines. A
continuous bead of the proper width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket. All sealing surfaces that use form-
in-place gaskets and sealers must be free of grease or oil. Clean surfaces with Mopar® brake parts cleaner prior
to sealer application. After the sealer is applied, assemble the parts within 10 minutes.
Numerous types of form-in-place gasket materials are used in the engine area. Mopar® Sealant RTV Silicone
Rubber Adhesive, MOPAR® Silicone Rubber RTV, Mopar® ATF-RTV and Mopar® Gasket Maker gasket
materials, each have different properties and cannot be used in place of the other.
MOPAR® SEALANT RTV SILICONE RUBBER ADHESIVE is used to seal components exposed to
engine oil. This material is a specially designed black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing
properties when exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the material to cure. This material is available
in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year this material will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPAR® SILICONE RUBBER RTV is used to seal components exposed to engine oil, gear lubricant, and
coolant. This material is a specially designed gray silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing
properties when exposed to engine oil, gear lubricant and coolant. Excellent adhesion even on oily surfaces,
withstands temperatures to 330° C (626° F). Moisture in the air causes the material to cure. This material is
available in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year this material will not properly
cure. Always inspect the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPAR® ATF-RTV is a specially designed black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing
properties to seal components exposed to automatic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and moisture. This
material is available in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year this material will not
properly cure. Always inspect the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPAR® GASKET MAKER is an anaerobic type gasket material. The material cures in the absence of air
when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic
material is for use between two machined surfaces. Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPAR® GASKET SEALANT is a slow drying, permanently soft sealer. This material is recommended for
sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage of oil and coolant. It can be used on threaded and machined
parts under all temperatures. This material also prevents corrosion. Mopar® Gasket Sealant is available in a 13
oz. aerosol can or in a 4 oz. or 6 oz. can with applicator.
SEALER APPLICATION
Apply 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of Mopar® Gasket Maker material to one gasket surface. Be certain the
material surrounds each mounting hole. Excess material can easily be wiped off. Tighten the components in
place within 15 minutes. Use a locating dowel during assembly to prevent smearing material off the location.
Apply Mopar® RTV or ATF-RTV gasket material in a continuous bead approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in
diameter. For corner sealing and "T-Joint" locations and waffle pad area, a 0.635 mm (0.025 in.) drop is placed
in the center of the gasket contact area. Remove uncured sealant with a shop towel. Tighten the components in
place while the sealant is still wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). Use a locating dowel during assembly to
prevent smearing material off the location.
SPECIFICATIONS
ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
CYLINDER BLOCK
CYLINDER BLOCK
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Metric Standard
Cylinder Bore Diameter 99.50 mm 3.92 in.
Out of Round (MAX) 0.0076 mm 0.0003 in.
Taper (MAX) 0.0127 mm 0.0005 in.
Lifter Bore Diameter 21.45 - 21.425 mm 0.8444 - 0.8435 in.
PISTONS
PISTONS
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Metric Standard
Clearance
Measured at 38.0 mm (1.5 in.) Below
0.031 - 0.058 mm 0.012 - 0.023 in.
Deck
Ring Groove Diameter
Top Groove 90.4 - 90.6 mm 3.56 - 3.57 in.
Second Groove 88.4 - 88.7 mm 3.48 - 3.49 in.
Weight 413 grams 14.56 oz.
Piston Length 53.3 mm 2.10 in.
Ring Groove Width
No. 1 1.23 - 1.26 mm 0.048 - 0.0496 in
No. 2 1.23 - 1.25 mm 0.048 - 0.0492 in.
No. 3 2.03 - 2.05 mm 0.079 - 0.080 in.
PISTON PINS
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Metric Standard
Clearance In Piston 0.005 - 0.014 mm 0.0001 - 0.0005 in.
Diameter 24.004 - 24.007 mm 0.945 - 0.9451 in.
Length 62.99 - 63.21 mm 2.47 - 2.48 in.
PISTON RINGS
PISTON RINGS
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Metric Standard
Ring Gap
Top Compression Ring 0.40 - 0.55 mm 0.015 - 0.021 in.
Second Compression Ring 0.24 - 0.51 mm 0.009 - 0.020 in.
Oil Control Rails 0.15 - 0.66 mm 0.0059 - 0.0259 in.
Side Clearance
Top Compression Ring 0.04 - 0.09 mm 0.001 - 0.0035 in.
Second Compression Ring 0.04 -.08 mm 0.001 - 0.0031 in.
Oil Control Rails 0.06 - 0.21 mm 0.002 - 0.008 in.
Ring Width
Top Compression Ring 1.17 - 1.19 mm 0.0460 - 0.0468 in.
Second Compression Ring 1.17 - 1.19 mm 0.0460 - 0.0468 in.
Oil Control Rails 0.387 - 0.413 mm 0.015 - 0.016 in.
CONNECTING RODS
CONNECTING RODS
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Metric Standard
Piston Pin Bore Diameter 24.014 - 24.024 mm 0.9454 - 0.9458 in.
Side Clearance 0.10 - 0.35 mm 0.003 - 0.0137 in.
CRANKSHAFT
CRANKSHAFT
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Metric Standard
Main Bearing Journal Diameter 64.988 - 65.012 mm 2.5585 - 2.5595 in.
Bearing Clearance 0.023 - 0.051 mm 0.0009 - 0.002 in.
Out of Round (MAX) 0.005 mm 0.0002 in.
Taper (MAX) 0.003 mm 0.0001 in.
End Play 0.052 - 0.282 mm 0.002 - 0.011 in.
End Play (MAX) 0.282 mm 0.011 in.
Connecting Rod Journal Diameter 53.992 - 54.008 mm 2.126 in.
Bearing Clearance 0.020 - 0.060 mm 0.0007 - 0.0023 in.
Out of Round (MAX) 0.005 mm 0.0002 in.
Taper (MAX) 0.003 mm 0.0001 in.
CAMSHAFT
CAMSHAFT
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Metric Standard
Bearing Journal Diameter
No. 1 58.2 mm 2.29 in.
No. 2 57.8 mm 2.28 in.
No. 3 57.4 mm 2.26 in.
No. 4 57.0 mm 2.24 in.
No. 5 43.633 mm 1.72 in.
Bearing To Journal Clearance
Standard
No. 1 0.040 - 0.080 mm .0015 -.003 in.
No. 2 0.050 -0.090 mm 0.0019 -.0035 in.
No. 3 0.040 - 0.080 mm .0015 -.003 in.
No. 4 0.050 - 0.090 mm 0.0019 -.0035 in.
No. 5 0.040 - 0.080 mm .0015 -.003 in.
Camshaft End Play .080 - 0.290 mm 0.0031 - 0.0114 in.
Duration 290°
VALVE TIMING
VALVE TIMING
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Intake
Opens (BTDC) 28.2°
Closes (ATDC) 239.8°
Duration 268°
Exhaust
Opens (BTDC) 274.2°
Closes (ATDC) 15.8°
Valve Overlap 44°
CYLINDER HEAD
CYLINDER HEAD
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Metric Standard
Valve Seat Angle 44.5° - 45.0°
Valve Seat Runout (MAX) 0.05 mm 0.0019 in.
Valve Seat Width (finish)
Intake 1.18 - 1.62 mm .0638 in.
Exhaust 1.48 - 1.92 mm 0.0583 - 0.0756 in.
Guide Bore Diameter (Std.) 7.975 - 8.00 mm 0.3134 - 0.315 in.
HYDRAULIC TAPPETS
HYDRAULIC TAPPETS
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Metric Standard
Body Diameter 21.387 - 21.405 mm 0.8420 - 0.8427 in.
Clearance (to bore) 0.020 - 0.063 mm 0.0008 - 0.0025 in.
Dry Lash 3.0 mm (at the valve) 0.1181 in. (at the valve)
VALVES
VALVES
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Metric Standard
Face Angle 45.0° - 45.5°
Head Diameter
Intake 51.94 - 52.20 mm 2.04 - 2.06 in.
Exhaust 39.27 - 39.53 mm 1.55 - 1.56 in.
Length (overall)
Intake 130.87 - 131.51 mm 5.152 - 5.178 in.
Exhaust 130.101 - 130.741 mm 5.122 - 5.147 in.
Stem Diameter
Intake 7.935 - 7.953 mm 0.312 - 0.313 in.
Exhaust 7.932 - 7.950 mm 0.312 - 0.313 in.
Stem - to - Guide Clearance
Intake 0.022 - 0.062 mm 0.0009 - 0.0024 in.
Exhaust 0.025 - 0.058 mm 0.0010 - 0.0023 in.
VALVE SPRING
VALVE SPRING
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Metric Standard
Spring Force (valve closed) 435.0 N +/- 22.0 N @ 45 mm 97.8 lbs +/- 5.0 lbs. @ 1.771 in.
Spring Force (valve open) 1077.0 N +/- 48.0 N @ 32.6
242.0 lbs. +/- 11 lbs. @ 1.283 in.
mm.
Free Length (Approx). 55.6 mm 2.189 in.
Number of Coils 7.95
Wire Diameter 4.95 X 4.1 mm 0.194 - 0.161 in.
Installed Height (spring seat to bottom
46.0 mm 1.81 in.
of retainer)
OIL PUMP
OIL PUMP
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Metric Standard
Clearance Over Rotors (MAX) 0.095 mm 0.0038 in.
Outer Rotor to Pump Body Clearance
.235 mm 0.009 in.
(MAX)
Tip Clearance Between Rotors 0.150 mm
0.006 in.
(MAX)
OIL PRESSURE
OIL PRESSURE
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Metric Standard
At Curb Idle Speed (MIN)* 25 kPa 4 psi
@ 3000 RPM 170 - 758 kPa 25 - 110 psi
* CAUTION: If pressure is zero at curb idle, DO NOT run engine.
TORQUE
5.7L ENGINE
DESCRIPTION N.m Ft. Lbs. In. Lbs.
Block Pipe Plugs
(1/4 - 18 NPT)
20 15 -
Oil Galley Plug
(1/4 - 18 NPT)
34 25 -
Coolant Drain Plug
(3/8 NPT) 27 20 240
Camshaft Phaser Bolt 98 72 -
Timing Drive Tensioner Bolts 11 - 97
Timing Drive Guide Bolts 11 - 97
Camshaft Thrust Plate Bolts 12 - 106
Coil to Cylinder Head Cover Bolts 7 - 62
Timing Chain Case Cover Bolts 28 21 -
Lifting Stud 55 41 -
Connecting Rod Cap Bolts 21 15 -
Plus 90° Turn Plus 90° Turn
Main Bearing Cap Bolts See Procedure. Refer to CRANKSHAFT,
INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
Cylinder Head Bolts See Procedure. Refer to CYLINDER HEAD,
INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
Cylinder Head Cover Bolts 8 - 71
Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder Head 25 18 220
Flexplate to Crankshaft Bolts 95 70 -
Flywheel to Crankshaft Bolts 75 55 -
Front Engine Mount Through Bolt and Nut 130 96 -
Front Engine Mount Heat Shield Nut 55 41 -
Front Engine Mount to Support Bracket
Through Bolts to Axle Pinion Housing (4WD) 120 89 -
Through Bolts to Axle Housing (4WD) 110 81 -
Engine Mount Brackets to Block Bolts 64 47 -
Front Engine Mount to Block Bolts (2WD) 64 47 -
Generator Mounting Bolt 55 41 -
Intake Manifold Bolts Refer to Procedure. Refer to MANIFOLD,
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
Fig. 3: Engine Cover, Clean Air Hose, Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Electrical Connector & Air
Cleaner Housing
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
Fig. 4: Battery
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
WARNING: Do not remove or loosen the radiator draincock with system hot and
under pressure. Serious burns from coolant can occur.
CAUTION: Do not let the tensioner arm snap back to the freearm position,
severe damage may occur to the tensioner.
9. Insert a suitable square drive ratchet into the square hole on the belt tensioner arm (7).
10. Release the belt tension by rotating the tensioner (7) clockwise until the accessory drive belt (4) can be
removed from the generator pulley only.
CAUTION: Do not place the viscous fan drive in horizontal position. If stored
horizontally, silicone fluid in the viscous fan drive could drain into its
bearing assembly and contaminate lubricant.
11. Remove the viscous fan drive assembly. Refer to FAN, COOLING, VISCOUS, REMOVAL .
12. Recover the refrigerant system. Refer to PLUMBING, STANDARD PROCEDURE .
13. Remove the upper radiator seal four push pins (1).
14. Remove the two plastic rivets (2) and remove the upper radiator seal.
15. Remove the fan shroud mounting bolts and pull the shroud up and out of the radiator tank clips.
16. Remove the radiator and A/C condenser as an assembly from the vehicle. Refer to RADIATOR,
ENGINE COOLING, REMOVAL .
17. Remove the A/C compressor (4). Refer to COMPRESSOR, A/C, REMOVAL .
18. Disconnect the generator electrical connectors and remove the generator assembly (2). Refer to
GENERATOR, REMOVAL .
19. Disconnect the heater hoses (2) and lower radiator hose (1).
NOTE: It is not necessary to disconnect the power steering hoses from the power
steering pump, for power steering pump removal.
20. Remove the three bolts securing the power steering pump through the holes in the pulley (1) and secure
Fig. 11: Oxygen Sensor, Oxygen Sensor Connector, Ball Flange Nut & LH Catalytic Converter
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
28. Disconnect the starter wires and remove the starter (1). Refer to STARTER, REMOVAL .
29. Remove the transmission inspection and structural dust covers (2). Refer to COVER, STRUCTURAL
DUST, REMOVAL, 5.7L .
30. Remove the drive plate to converter bolts (Automatic transmission equipped vehicles).
31. Remove both the left and right side oil pan to transmission bolts (1).
32. Remove the transmission bell housing to engine block bolts (2).
33. Lower the vehicle.
34. Remove the intake manifold. Refer to MANIFOLD, INTAKE, REMOVAL, 5.7L .
NOTE: Do not use air tools to install (special tool #8984B, Fixture, Engine Lifting)
Engine Lift Fixture (1) and Adapter (special tool #8984B, Fixture, Engine
37. Install the engine lift fixture (special tool #8984B, Fixture, Engine Lifting) (1) and adapter (special tool
#8984B, Fixture, Engine Lifting) Eagle (2).
38. Separate the engine from the transmission and remove engine from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Do not use air tools to install (special tool #8984B, Fixture, Engine Lifting)
Engine Lift Fixture (1) and Adapter (special tool #8984B, Fixture, Engine Lifting)
Eagle (2).
1. Install the engine lift fixture (special tool #8984B, Fixture, Engine Lifting) (1) and adapter (special tool
#8984B, Fixture, Engine Lifting) Eagle (2).
2. Position the engine in the engine compartment.
3. Lower and align the engine (1) with the transmission (3).
4. Install two transmission bell housing to engine block mounting bolts (2) finger tight.
5. Lower the engine assembly until the engine mount through bolts (3) line up in the frame brackets (1).
6. Raise and support the vehicle on a hoist.
7. Install the remaining transmission bell housing to engine block mounting bolts (2) and tighten to 68 N.m
(50 ft. lbs.).
8. Install both the left and right side oil pan to transmission bolts (1) and tighten bolts to 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.).
9. Connect the transmission oil cooler lines at the oil pan and tighten bolts to 12 N.m (9 ft. lbs.).
10. Install the engine mount through bolts (3) and nuts and tighten to 95 N.m (70 ft. lbs.).
11. Install all torque converter-to-driveplate bolts (1) by hand, verify the torque converter is pulled flush to
the driveplate and tighten bolts to 31 N.m (23 ft. lbs.).
12. Install the structural dust cover (1). Refer to COVER, STRUCTURAL DUST, INSTALLATION, 5.7L
N.
13. Install the starter (1) and connect the starter wires. Refer to STARTER, INSTALLATION .
Fig. 28: Oxygen Sensor, Oxygen Sensor Connector, Ball Flange Nut & LH Catalytic Converter
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
14. Install the front exhaust pipe/catalytic converter assembly (4) to the exhaust manifold flange and tighten
the bolts and nuts (3) to 26 N.m (19 ft. lbs.).
15. Lower the vehicle.
16. Remove the engine lift fixture (special tool #8984B, Fixture, Engine Lifting) and adapter (special tool
#8984B, Fixture, Engine Lifting) Eagle (1, 2).
21. Install the three power steering pump mounting bolts through the access holes in the pulley (1) and
tighten bolts to 28 N•m (21 ft. lbs.).
22. Connect the heater hoses (2) and the lower radiator hose (1).
23. Install the generator (2) and electrical connections. Refer to GENERATOR, INSTALLATION .
24. Install the A/C compressor (3). Refer to COMPRESSOR, A/C, INSTALLATION .
25. Connect the refrigerant lines (1, 3) to the A/C compressor (4) and tighten the nuts (2) to 20 N.m (15 ft.
lbs.).
26. Install the viscous fan drive assembly. Refer to FAN, COOLING, VISCOUS, REMOVAL .
CAUTION: Do not let the tensioner arm snap back to the freearm position,
severe damage may occur to the tensioner.
27. Insert a suitable square drive ratchet into the square hole on the belt tensioner arm (7).
28. Rotate the tensioner (7) counter-clockwise and install the accessory drive belt (4).
29. Install the radiator and A/C condenser as an assembly. Refer to RADIATOR, ENGINE COOLING,
INSTALLATION and CONDENSER, A/C, INSTALLATION .
30. Position the shroud in the radiator tank clips and Install the fan shroud mounting bolts.
31. Connect the radiator upper hose.
32. Position the upper radiator seal and install the two plastic rivets (2).
33. Install the four push pins (1).
34. Install the washer bottle.
Fig. 38: Engine Cover, Clean Air Hose, Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Electrical Connector
& Air Cleaner Housing
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
35. Install the engine cover (1). Refer to COVER, ENGINE, INSTALLATION, 5.7L.
36. Install the air cleaner housing (4).
39. Fill the engine with oil. Refer to CAPACITIES AND RECOMMENDED FLUIDS,
SPECIFICATIONS .
40. Fill the cooling system. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .
41. Connect the negative battery cable (1).
42. Start the engine and check for leaks.
43. Evacuate and Charge the refrigerant system. Refer to PLUMBING, STANDARD PROCEDURE .
SPECIAL TOOLS
SPECIAL TOOLS
1023 - Puller
(Originally Shipped In Kit Number(s)
8678.)
COVER, ENGINE
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
The engine cover mounts into grommets at the front and rear of the intake manifold.
The front grommets (1, 3) are a ball stud type mounts and the rear grommets (2) are a sliding peg design.
The engine cover rear pegs slide into the grommets (2) at the rear of the intake manifold and the engine cover
front ball studs snap into the grommets (1, 3) at the front of the intake manifold.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
Fig. 41: Engine Cover, Clean Air Hose, Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Electrical Connector & Air
Cleaner Housing
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
3. Lift up the front of the engine cover (1) and separate the engine cover front grommets (2) from the ball
studs on the intake manifold.
4. Slightly raise the front of the engine cover and slide forward to remove the rear engine cover pegs (2)
from the grommets (1) on the rear of the intake manifold.
Fig. 44: Engine Cover, Clean Air Hose, Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Electrical Connector
& Air Cleaner Housing
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
NOTE: The front grommets (1, 3) are a ball stud type mount and the rear grommets (2)
are a sliding peg design.
1. Slightly tilt the rear of the engine cover and slide the rear engine cover pegs (2) into the grommets (1) on
the rear of the intake manifold until the cover stops.
NOTE: While installing the engine cover the front ball studs will make a popping
or suction sound as the ball studs are inserted into the front grommets.
2. Lower the front of the engine cover (1) and line up the front ball studs with the grommets (2) on the front
of the intake manifold and with a downward motion push the engine cover ball studs into the front
grommets.
3. Lightly lift the front of the engine cover to insure the front ball studs are seated into the front grommets
correctly.
4. Check to make sure the engine cover is installed properly by reaching behind the cover to verify that the
pegs (2) are located in the grommets (1).
Fig. 49: Engine Cover, Clean Air Hose, Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Electrical Connector
& Air Cleaner Housing
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
5. Install the clean air tube (2) onto the air cleaner housing (4) and the throttle body.
6. Connect the IAT sensor electrical connector (3).
MDS SYSTEM
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
The Multiple Displacement System (MDS) selectively deactivates cylinders 1, 4, 6 and 7 during steady speed,
low acceleration and shallow grade climbing conditions to increase fuel economy.
The MDS can provide a 5 to 20% fuel economy benefit when operating in four-cylinder mode. Depending on
driving habits and vehicle usage. For EPA rating purposes the fuel economy is 8 to 15% higher than if the
engine was operating on eight-cylinders at all times.
The MDS deactivating lifter (1) can be distinguished from the non-MDS lifter (2) by the disconnecting pin (3)
on the side of the MDS lifter.
MDS is integrated into the basic engine architecture requiring these additional components:
OPERATION
OPERATION
The Multiple Displacement System (MDS) provides cylinder deactivation during steady speed, low acceleration
and shallow grade climbing conditions to increase fuel economy. Both four and eight cylinder configurations
have even firing intervals to provide smooth operation. The MDS selectively deactivates cylinders 1, 4, 6, and
7, to improve fuel economy. All deactivated cylinders have unique hydraulic lifters that collapse when
deactivated to prevent the valves from opening. Engine oil pressure is used to activate and deactivate the valves.
Oil is delivered through special oil passages drilled into the cylinder block. The MDS solenoid valves control
the flow. When activated, pressurized oil pushes a latching pin on each MDS lifter which becomes a lost motion
link. The base of the MDS lifter follows the camshaft while the top remains stationary. The MDS lifter is held
in place against the pushrod by light spring pressure but unable to move because of the much higher force of the
valve spring.
NOTE: It is critical to use the recommended oil viscosity in engines that use MDS.
Deactivation occurs during the compression stroke of each cylinder, after air and fuel enter the cylinder.
Ignition occurs, but the combustion products remain trapped in the cylinder under high pressure, because the
valves no longer open. No fuel/air enters or leaves during subsequent piston strokes, this high pressure gas is
repeatedly compressed and expanded like an air spring.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
1. Disengage the retaining clamps (1) that secure the air cleaner body cover to air cleaner body.
2. Lift and push the air cleaner body cover toward the engine to disengage the cover locating tabs from the
air cleaner body and position the cover out of the way.
3. Remove the air cleaner element (2) from the inside of the air cleaner body (1).
4. Clean out the inside of the air cleaner body (1).
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
1. Clean any dirt or foreign matter from the inside of the air cleaner housing (1).
2. Install the air filter element (2) into air cleaner housing. Make sure the element is properly seated in the
housing.
3. Position the air cleaner housing cover to the air cleaner housing and engage the cover locating tabs.
4. Fully install the air cleaner housing cover to the air cleaner housing and engage the four retaining clamps
(1).
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
Fig. 56: Clean Air Tube To Air Cleaner Housing, Make Up Air Hose & Grommets
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
Fig. 57: Clean Air Tube To Air Cleaner Housing, Make Up Air Hose & Grommets
1. Position the air cleaner housing onto the grommets (1) and push downward.
2. Connect the clean air hose (2) to the air cleaner housing. Tighten the band clamps to 4 N.m (35 in. lbs.).
3. Connect make up air hose (3) to the air cleaner housing.
CYLINDER HEAD
OPERATION
OPERATION
The cylinder head closes the combustion chamber allowing the pistons to compress the air fuel mixture to the
correct ratio for ignition. The valves located in the cylinder head open and close to either allow clean air into the
combustion chamber or to allow the exhaust gases out, depending on the stroke of the engine.
A cylinder head gasket leak can be located between adjacent cylinders or between a cylinder and the adjacent
water jacket.
Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket leaking between adjacent cylinders are:
Loss of engine power
Engine misfiring
Poor fuel economy
Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket leaking between a cylinder and an adjacent water jacket
are:
Engine overheating
Loss of coolant
Excessive steam (white smoke) emitting from exhaust
Coolant foaming
To determine if an engine cylinder head gasket is leaking between adjacent cylinders, follow the procedures in
the CYLINDER COMPRESSION TEST . An engine cylinder head gasket leaking between adjacent cylinders
will results in approximately a 50 - 70% reduction in compression pressure.
WARNING: Use extreme care when the engine is operating with the coolant pressure
cap removed. Failure to follow these instructions may result in possible
With the engine cool, remove the coolant pressure cap. Start the engine and allow it to warm up until thermostat
opens.
If a large combustion/compression pressure leak exists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.
CAUTION: With the cooling system tester in place, pressure builds up fast. Excessive
pressure built up by continuous engine operation must be released to a
safe pressure point. Never permit pressure to exceed 138 kPa (20 psi).
Install the Cooling System Tester (special tool #7700, Tester, Cooling System) or equivalent to pressure cap
neck. Start the engine and observe the tester's pressure gauge. If the gauge pulsates with every power stroke of a
cylinder a combustion pressure leak is evident.
Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also be checked by using the Bloc-Chek Kit (special tool #C-
3685-A, Bloc-Chek Kit) or equivalent. Perform the test following the procedures supplied with the tool kit.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
2. Remove the engine cover (1). Refer to COVER, ENGINE, INSTALLATION, 5.7L.
3. Perform the Fuel System Pressure Release procedure. Refer to FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE
RELEASE .
4. Disconnect the fuel supply line. Refer to FITTING, QUICK CONNECT .
Fig. 61: Oxygen Sensor, Oxygen Sensor Connector, Ball Flange Nut & LH Catalytic Converter
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
CAUTION: Do not let the tensioner arm snap back to the freearm position, sever
damage may occur to the tensioner.
14. Insert a suitable square drive ratchet into the square hole on belt tensioner arm (7).
15. Release the belt tension by rotating the tensioner arm (7)clockwise . Rotate the belt tensioner arm (7)
until the belt can be removed from the pulleys.
16. Remove the accessory drive belt.
17. Gently release the tensioner arm (7).
NOTE: It is not necessary to disconnect the hoses from the power steering pump,
for power steering pump removal.
18. Remove the three power steering pump (1) mounting bolts (2) through the access holes in the pulley and
secure out of the way.
19. Remove the cylinder head covers and gaskets. Refer to COVER(S), CYLINDER HEAD, REMOVAL,
5.7L .
Fig. 66: Rocker Shafts Retaining Bolt Removal & Tightening Sequence
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
20. Remove the intake manifold and throttle body as an assembly. Refer to MANIFOLD, INTAKE,
REMOVAL, 5.7L .
21. Identify the original locations for assembly, remove rocker arm assemblies and pushrods. Refer to
ROCKER ARM, VALVE, REMOVAL, 5.7L .
22. Using the sequence shown in illustration, remove the head bolts from each cylinder head. Remove the
cylinder head and discard the cylinder head gasket.
CLEANING
CLEANING
Clean all of the sealing surfaces of cylinder block and cylinder heads Mopar® Brake Parts Cleaner (or
equivalent).
INSPECTION
INSPECTION
1. Inspect the cylinder head for out-of-flatness using a straightedge and a feeler gauge. If tolerances exceed
0.0508 mm (0.002 in.) replace the cylinder head.
2. Inspect the valve seats for damage. Service the valve seats as necessary.
3. Inspect the valve guides for wear, cracks or looseness. If either condition exist, replace the cylinder head.
4. Inspect the pushrods. Replace worn or bent pushrods.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The cylinder head gaskets are not interchangeable between the left
and right sides. They are marked with an "L" and "R" to indicate the
left or right side and they are marked "TOP" to indicate which side
goes up.
CAUTION: The head gaskets are marked "TOP" to indicate which side goes up.
3. Position the new cylinder head gasket (5) onto the cylinder block.
4. Position cylinder head (4) onto head gasket (5) and cylinder block.
5. Using the sequence shown in illustration, tighten the cylinder head bolts 1 through 10 to 34 N.m (25 ft.
lbs.).
6. Using the sequence shown in illustration, tighten the cylinder head bolts 11 through 15 to 20 N.m (15 ft.
lbs.).
7. Using the sequence shown in illustration, tighten the cylinder head bolts 1 through 10 to 54 N.m (40 ft.
lbs.).
8. Using the sequence shown in illustration, tighten the cylinder head bolts 11 through 15 to 20 N.m (15 ft.
lbs.).
9. Using the sequence shown in illustration, rotate the cylinder head bolts 1 through 10 90°.
10. Using the sequence shown in illustration, tighten the cylinder head bolts 11 through 15 to 34 N.m (25 ft.
lbs.).
11. Install the push rods and rocker arm assemblies in their original position, using Pushrod Retainer (special
tool #9070, Retainer, Push Rod) (1). Refer to ROCKER ARM, VALVE, INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
12. Install the intake manifold. Refer to MANIFOLD, INTAKE, INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
13. Install the spark plugs.
16. Install the three power steering pump mounting bolts (2) through the access holes in the pulley and
tighten bolts to 28 N•m (21 ft. lbs.).
17. Install the accessory drive belt. Refer to BELT, SERPENTINE, INSTALLATION .
18. Install the cylinder head cover (1) and hand start all fasteners. Verify that all double ended studs (3) are in
the correct location. Refer to COVER(S), CYLINDER HEAD, INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
19. Using the sequence shown in illustration, tighten the cylinder head cover bolts and double ended studs to
8 N.m (70 in. lbs.).
20. Connect the evaporation control system.
21. Install the air cleaner.
23. Install the engine cover (1). Refer to COVER, ENGINE, INSTALLATION, 5.7L.
24. Fill the cooling system. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .
25. Drain and fill the engine with new oil.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
2. Remove the engine cover (2). Refer to COVER, ENGINE, INSTALLATION, 5.7L.
6. Using the sequence shown in illustration, remove the cylinder head cover retaining bolts.
CAUTION: Do not use harsh cleaners to clean the cylinder head covers. Severe
damage to covers may occur.
NOTE: The cylinder head cover gasket may be used again, provided no cuts, tears, or
deformation have occurred.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Do not use harsh cleaners to clean the cylinder head covers. Severe
damage to covers may occur.
CAUTION: Do not allow other components including the wire harness to rest on or
against the engine cylinder head cover. Prolonged contact with other
objects may wear a hole in the cylinder head cover.
NOTE: The cylinder head cover gasket may be used again, provided no cuts, tears, or
deformation have occurred.
1. Clean the cylinder head cover (1) and the sealing surface of the cylinder head (2). Inspect and replace
gasket if necessary.
2. Install the cylinder head cover and hand start all fasteners.
Using the sequence shown in illustration, tighten the cylinder head cover bolts to 8 N.m (70 lbs in.).
3. Before installing the ignition coils, apply dielectric grease to the inside of the spark plug boots (1).
4. Install the ignition coils.
5. Tighten the ignition coil retaining bolts (3) to 7 N.m (62 in. lbs.).
6. Position the electrical harness (2).
7. Connect the ignition coil electrical connectors (1).
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
4. Using the sequence shown in illustration, remove the cylinder head cover. Refer to COVER(S),
CYLINDER HEAD, REMOVAL, 5.7L .
5. Install the pushrod retainer (special tool #9070, Retainer, Push Rod) (1).
Fig. 94: Rocker Shafts Retaining Bolt Removal & Tightening Sequence
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
6. Using the sequence shown in illustration, loosen the rocker shafts retaining bolts.
CAUTION: The rocker shaft assemblies are not interchangeable between the
intake and the exhaust, failure to install them in the correct location
could result in engine damage. The intake rocker arms (1) are marked
with the letter "I" (2).
CAUTION: Do not remove the retainers (1) from the rocker shaft (3).
7. Remove the rocker shaft (3). Note the rocker shaft location during removal.
CAUTION: The longer pushrods are for the exhaust side and the shorter
pushrods are for the intake side.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The longer pushrods are for the exhaust side and the shorter pushrods are
for the intake side.
CAUTION: Make sure that the retainers (1) and the rocker arms (2) are not
overlapped when tightening bolts or engine damage could result.
CAUTION: Due to the changes in the pushrod clearance holes in the Eagle 5.7L
cylinder heads, close attention must be given when installing the
pushrod(s) into the tappet(s). Once the pushrod(s) have been
installed, use a suitable light to look down through the pushrod hole
(s). This will allow you to verify the pushrod(s) are centered properly
in the tappet(s) and avoid engine damage. Recheck after the rocker
shaft assembly has been installed and tightened to specification.
CAUTION: The rocker shaft assemblies are not interchangeable between the
intake and the exhaust, failure to install them in the correct location
could result in engine damage. The intake rocker arms (1) are marked
with the letter "I" (2).
Fig. 100: Rocker Shafts Retaining Bolt Removal & Tightening Sequence
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
CAUTION: Do Not rotate or crank the engine during or immediately after rocker
arm installation. Allow the hydraulic roller tappets adequate time to
bleed down (about five minutes).
5. Remove pushrod retainer (special tool #9070, Retainer, Push Rod) (1).
6. Using the sequence shown in illustration, install the cylinder head cover. Refer to COVER(S),
CYLINDER HEAD, INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
The valve guide seals are made of rubber and incorporate an integral steel valve spring seat. The integral garter
spring maintains consistent lubrication control to the valve stems.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
The valve stem seal is integral with the valve spring seat, for removal. Refer to SPRING(S), VALVE,
REMOVAL, 5.7L .
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
The valve stem seal is integral with the valve spring seat, for installation. Refer to SPRING(S), VALVE,
INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
SPRING(S), VALVE
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
Fig. 105: Ignition Coil Connector, Ignition Coil & Mounting Bolts
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
6. Using the sequence shown in illustration, remove the cylinder head cover retaining bolts and remove the
cylinder head cover. Refer to COVER(S), CYLINDER HEAD, REMOVAL, 5.7L .
CAUTION: The rocker shaft assemblies are not interchangeable between the
intake and the exhaust, failure to install them in the correct location
could result in engine damage. The intake rocker arms (1) are marked
with the letter "I" (2).
CAUTION: The piston must be at TDC and both valves closed on the cylinder to
be serviced.
CAUTION: The longer pushrods are for the exhaust side and the shorter
pushrods are for the intake side.
NOTE: If removing the intake valve spring, install the pushrod retainer (special
tool #9070, Retainer, Push Rod) (1).
Fig. 109: Rocker Shafts Retaining Bolt Removal & Tightening Sequence
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
7. Using the sequence shown in illustration, remove the exhaust/intake rocker arm shaft retaining bolts.
Fig. 110: Rocker Arm Valve Spring Compressor Shaft & Air Hose
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
NOTE: Tap the top of the valve spring retainer to loosen the spring retainers
locks.
8. Install the rocker arm valve spring compressor shaft (special tool #9065C, Compressor, Valve Spring)
(1).
9. Install the spring compressor adapter arm (special tool #9065C, Compressor, Valve Spring) if needed.
10. Insert an air hose (2) into the spark plug hole and charge the cylinder with air.
NOTE: Tap the top of the valve spring retainer to loosen the spring retainers
locks.
11. Compress the valve spring with valve spring compressor (1) and remove the valve retainer locks.
12. Release the spring compressor and remove valve spring.
NOTE: All valve springs and seals are removed in the same manner and are
interchangeable between intake and exhaust.
NOTE: When the exhaust spring, seal or valve needs servicing. The exhaust
adapter arm (1) must be installed to the spring compressor clamp (3).
14. Install tool (special tool #9065C, Compressor, Valve Spring), exhaust adapter arm (1) to the spring
compressor (3) for servicing the exhaust side.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
NOTE: All valve springs and seals are installed in the same manner.
CAUTION: The rocker shaft assemblies are not interchangeable between the
intake and the exhaust, failure to install them in the correct location
could result in engine damage. The intake rocker arms (1) are marked
with the letter "I" (2).
CAUTION: Make sure that the retainers (1) and the rocker arms (2) are not
overlapped when tightening bolts or engine damage could result.
Fig. 117: Rocker Shafts Retaining Bolt Removal & Tightening Sequence
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
CAUTION: Due to the changes in the pushrod clearance holes in the Eagle 5.7L
cylinder heads, close attention must be given when installing the
pushrod(s) into the tappet(s). Once the pushrod(s) have been
installed, use a suitable light to look down through the pushrod hole
(s). This will allow you to verify the pushrod(s) are centered properly
in the tappet(s) and avoid engine damage. Recheck after the rocker
shaft assembly has been installed and tightened to specification.
CAUTION: The longer pushrods are for the exhaust side and the shorter
pushrods are for the intake side.
7. Install the rocker arm shaft and pushrods. Refer to ROCKER ARM, VALVE, INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
8. Using the sequence shown in illustration, tighten the rocker shaft bolts to 22 N.m (16 ft. lbs.).
9. If used, remove the pushrod retainer (special tool #9070, Retainer, Push Rod) (1).
CAUTION: Do not use harsh cleaners to clean the cylinder head covers. Severe
damage to covers may occur.
CAUTION: Do not allow other components including the wire harness to rest on
or against the engine cylinder head cover. Prolonged contact with
other objects may wear a hole in the cylinder head cover.
10. Clean the cylinder head cover and both sealing surfaces, inspect and replace the gasket as necessary.
11. Install the cylinder head cover and hand start all fasteners. Verify that all double ended studs are in the
correct location.
12. Using the sequence shown in illustration, tighten the cylinder head cover retaining bolts to 8 N.m (71 in.
lbs.).
13. Install the spark plugs.
14. Before installing the ignition coils, apply dielectric grease to the inside of the spark plug boots.
Fig. 121: Ignition Coil Connector, Ignition Coil & Mounting Bolts
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
15. Install the ignition coil (2) on the plugs and tighten the fasteners (3) to 7 N.m (62 in. lbs).
16. Connect the ignition coil electrical connectors (1).
17. Install the air intake resonator and the air cleaner assembly. Refer to BODY, AIR CLEANER,
INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
18. Connect the negative battery cable.
DESCRIPTION
VALVE GUIDES
The valve guides are made of powdered metal and pressed into the cylinder head. The guides are not
replaceable or serviceable, and valve guide reaming is not recommended. If the guides are worn beyond
acceptable limits, replace the cylinder heads.
VALVES
Both the intake and the exhaust valves are made of steel. The intake valve is 50.93 mm (2.00 inches) in
diameter and the exhaust valve is 39.53 mm (1.55 inches) in diameter. All valves use three-bead lock keepers to
retain the springs and promote valve rotation.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Metric Standard
Seat Width
Intake 1.18 - 1.62 mm 0.0464 - 0.0637 in.
Exhaust 1.48 - 1.92 mm 0.058 - 0.075 in.
Face Angle 45° - 45 1/2°
Seat Angle 44 1/2° - 45°
NOTE: Valve seats that are worn or burned can be reworked, provided that correct
angle and seat width are maintained. Otherwise the cylinder head must be
replaced.
NOTE: When refacing valves and valve seats, it is important that the correct size valve
guide pilot be used for reseating stones. A true and complete surface must be
obtained.
1. Using a suitable dial indicator, measure the center of the valve seat. Total run out must not exceed 0.051
mm (0.002 in).
2. Apply a small amount of Prussian Blue to the valve seat. Insert the valve into the cylinder head. Rotate
valve while applying light pressure on the valve seat. Remove the valve and examine the valve face. If the
blue is transferred below the top edge of the valve face, lower the valve seat using a 15 degree stone. If
the blue is transferred to the bottom edge of the valve face, raise the valve seat using a 65 degree stone.
3. When the seat is properly positioned the width of the intake seat must be 1.18 - 1.62 mm (0.0464 - 0.0637
in.) and the exhaust seat must be 1.48 - 1.92 mm (0.058 - 0.075 in.).
4. Check the valve spring installed height after refacing the valve and seat. The installed height for both
intake and exhaust valve springs must not exceed 46.0 mm (1.81 in.).
5. The valve seat must maintain a seat angle of 44 1/2° - 45°.
6. The valve face must maintain a face angle of 45° - 45 1/2°.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
ENGINE BLOCK
CLEANING
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gasket surfaces.
Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply Loctite® PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the threads of
the front and rear oil gallery plugs and coolant drain plugs. Tighten the oil gallery 1/4 inch x 18 NPT plugs to
20 N.m (15 ft. lbs.). Tighten the coolant drain 1/4 inch x 18 NPT plugs to 34 N.m (25 ft. lbs.). Tighten the 3/8
inch x 18 NPT plugs to 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.).
INSPECTION
INSPECTION
9. Use Cylinder Indicator (special tool #C-119, Cylinder Indicator) (2) to correctly measure the inside
diameter of the cylinder bore (3). A cylinder bore gauge capable of reading in 0.003 mm (0.0001 in.)
Increments is required. If a bore gauge is not available, do not use an inside micrometer.
10. Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder bore at three levels below the top of the bore (4). Start at the
top of the bore, perpendicular (across or at 90°) to the axis of the crankshaft at point A (1).
11. Repeat the measurement near the middle of the bore then repeat the measurement near the bottom of the
bore.
12. Determine the taper by subtracting the smaller diameter from the larger diameter.
13. Rotate the measuring device 90° to point B (1) and repeat the three measurements. Verify that the
maximum taper is within specifications.
14. Determine out-of-roundness by comparing the difference between each measurement.
15. If the cylinder bore taper does not exceed 0.025 mm (0.001 inch) and out-of-roundness does not exceed
0.015 mm (0.0006 inch) then the cylinder bore can be honed. If the cylinder bore taper or out- of-round
condition exceeds the maximum limits, replace the cylinder block.
NOTE: A slight amount of taper always exists in the cylinder bore after the engine has
been in use for a period of time.
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
The 5.7L Eagle engine is equipped with Variable Cam Timing (VCT). This system advances and/or retards the
camshaft timing to improve engine performance, mid-range torque, idle quality, fuel economy, and reduce
emissions. The VCT assembly is sometimes. Referred to as a camshaft phaser.
CAUTION: Never attempt to disassemble the camshaft phaser, severe engine damage
could result.
The VCT assembly consists of the camshaft sprocket and a timing phaser. The VCT phaser assembly bolts to
the camshaft and is serviced as an assembly.
OPERATION
OPERATION
The Variable Cam Timing (VCT) assembly is actuated with engine oil pressure. The oil flow to the VCT
assemblies are controlled by an Oil Control Valve (OCV). The OCV consist of a Pulse Width Modulated
(PWM) solenoid and a spool valve. The PCM actuates the OCV to control oil flow through the spool valve into
the VCT assemblies. The VCT assembly consists of a rotor, stator, and sprocket. The stator is connected to the
timing chain through the sprocket. The rotor is connected to the camshaft. Oil flow in to the VCT assembly
rotates the rotor with respect to the stator, thus rotating the exhaust camshaft with respect to the timing chain
and intake camshaft. An infinitely variable cam timing position can be achieved within the limits of the
hardware. The CMP monitors the position of the camshaft with respect to the crankshaft and provides feedback
to the PCM.
CAUTION: Never attempt to disassemble the camshaft phaser, severe engine damage
could result.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
CAUTION: Never attempt to disassemble the camshaft phaser, severe engine damage
could result.
1. Remove the timing chain and sprockets. Refer to CHAIN AND SPROCKETS, TIMING, REMOVAL,
5.7L .
2. Remove the camshaft phaser bolt (1).
3. Remove camshaft phaser (2).
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
1. Align the slot (2) in the phaser (1) with the dowel on the camshaft.
2. Position the phaser (2) in place and install phaser retaining bolt (1) and tighten to 122 N.m (90 ft. lbs.).
3. Install the timing chain and sprockets. Refer to CHAIN AND SPROCKETS, TIMING,
INSTALLATION, 5.7L N.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
Determine the maximum diameter of the journal with a micrometer. Measure at two locations 90° apart at each
end of the journal.
The maximum allowable taper is 0.008mm (0.0004 inch.) and maximum out of round is 0.005mm (0.0002
inch). Compare the measured diameter with the journal diameter specification (Main Bearing Fitting Chart).
Select the inserts required to obtain the specified bearing-to-journal clearance.
The main bearings are "select fit" to achieve proper oil clearances. For main bearing selection, the crankshaft
counterweight has grade identification marks stamped into it. These marks are read from left to right.The left
letter (1). Refers to the number one main journal and the right letter (2). Refers to the number 5 journal.
NOTE: Service main bearings are coded. These codes identify what size or grade of the
bearing.
INSPECTION
INSPECTION
Wipe the inserts clean and inspect for abnormal wear patterns and for metal or other foreign material imbedded
in the lining. Normal main bearing insert wear patterns are illustrated.
NOTE: If any crankshaft journals are scored, the crankshaft must be repaired or
replaced.
Inspect the back of the inserts for fractures, scrapings or irregular wear patterns.
CAMSHAFT, ENGINE
REMOVAL
1. Perform the fuel system pressure release procedure. Refer to FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE RELEASE .
2. Remove the engine from the vehicle. Refer to REMOVAL, 5.7L .
3. Remove the flexplate. Refer to FLEXPLATE, REMOVAL, 5.7L .
CAUTION: Do not damage the rear surface of the camshaft or the core plug
sealing surface, when removing the core plug.
4. Using a suitable sharp punch, punch a small hole in the camshaft core hole plug (1).
5. Insert a short sheet metal screw into the small hole in the camshaft core hole plug.
6. Using a suitable slide hammer puller, remove the rear camshaft core hole plug.
CAMSHAFT
11. Remove the oil pump retaining bolts (2) and remove the oil pump (1).
Fig. 136: Timing Chain, Sprockets, Timing Chain Tensioner & Guide
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
12. Remove timing chain (5). Refer to CHAIN AND SPROCKETS, TIMING, REMOVAL, 5.7L .
14. Install a long bolt (2) into front of camshaft (1) to aid in removal of the camshaft. Remove camshaft,
being careful not to damage cam bearings with the cam lobes.
INSPECTION
INSPECTION
The cam bearings are not serviceable. Do not attempt to replace cam bearings for any reason. If the cam
bearings are damaged, the cylinder block must be replaced.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Do not apply adhesive to the new camshaft core hole plug. A new plug has
adhesive pre-applied.
2. Install a new camshaft core hole plug (1) located at the rear of cylinder block, using a suitable flat faced
tool. The plug must be fully seated on the cylinder block shoulder.
3. Install the flexplate. Refer to FLEXPLATE, INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
4. Install the engine. Refer to INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
CAMSHAFT
1. Lubricate the camshaft lobes and camshaft bearing journals and insert the camshaft (1).
NOTE: Ensure that the plate is installed on the correct side. The fasteners are flat
head fasteners so the top of the head of the fastener should not stick
above the front face of the plate after they are torqued. The plate has
chamfered fastener holes and the chamfered side should be facing
forward to ensure the fasteners are flush or below the front surface.
3. Using the sequence shown in illustration, tighten the bolts to 12 N.m (9 ft. lbs.).
NOTE: The camshaft phaser must be installed before the camshaft end play can
be measured.
Fig. 143: Timing Chain, Sprockets, Timing Chain Tensioner & Guide
6. Install the timing chain (5) and sprockets (1, 3). Refer to CHAIN AND SPROCKETS, TIMING,
INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
7. Install the timing chain tensioner arm (4) and guide (2).
8. Remove the tensioner pin (special tool #8514, Pins, Tensioner) (1).
9. Install the oil pump (1) and tighten bolts to 28 N.m (21 ft. lbs.). Refer to PUMP, ENGINE OIL,
INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
10. Inspect the oil pick up tube O-rings and replace as necessary.
11. Install the oil pick up tube (1) and tighten fasteners (2) to 28 N.m (21 ft. lbs.).
12. Install the timing chain cover. Refer to COVER(S), ENGINE TIMING, INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
13. Install the oil pan. Refer to PAN, OIL, INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
CAUTION: Engines equipped with MDS use both standard roller lifters (2) and
deactivating roller lifters (1). The deactivating roller lifters must be
used in cylinders 1, 4, 6, 7. The deactivating lifters can be identified
by the two holes in the side of the lifter body (3), for the latching pins.
NOTE: Each tappet reused must be installed in the same position from which it
was removed. When camshaft is replaced, all of the tappets must be
replaced.
14. Install the rear MDS lifter assembly (2) and tighten bolt (1) to 12 N.m (106 in. lbs.)
15. Install the front MDS lifter assembly (2) and tighten bolt (1) to 12 N.m (106 in. lbs.).
16. Install both the left and right cylinder heads (4). Refer to CYLINDER HEAD, INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
17. Install pushrods.
18. Install rocker arms. Refer to ROCKER ARM, VALVE, INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
19. Install cylinder head covers. Refer to COVER(S), CYLINDER HEAD, INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
20. Install the intake manifold. Refer to MANIFOLD, INTAKE, INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
21. Install the generator (2).
22. Install the power steering pump (3).
23. Install the accessory drive belt (1). Refer to BELT, SERPENTINE, INSTALLATION .
24. Install the radiator. Refer to RADIATOR, ENGINE COOLING, INSTALLATION .
25. Install the air cleaner assembly. Refer to BODY, AIR CLEANER, INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
26. Install the negative battery cable.
27. Fill the radiator with coolant. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .
28. Fill the engine with oil. Refer to FILTER, ENGINE OIL, INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
29. Start the engine and check for leaks.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
2. Remove the steering rack to frame mounting bolts (1) and lower the steering rack enough to gain
clearance for the structural dust cover removal.
5. Remove the structural dust cover retaining bolts (1, 3 & 4).
6. Remove the structural dust cover (2).
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The structural dust cover must be installed as described in the following
steps. Failure to do so may cause severe damage to the cover.
CAUTION: The structural dust cover must be held tightly against both the
engine and the transmission bell housing during the tightening
sequence. Failure to do so may cause severe damage to the cover.
4. Tighten the structural dust cover-to-transmission bolts (1, 2 & 4) to 9 N.m (80 in. lbs.).
5. Tighten the structural dust cover-to-engine block bolts (3) to 9 N.m (80 in. lbs.).
6. Retighten the structural dust cover-to-transmission bolts to 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.).
7. Retighten the structural dust cover-to-engine block bolts to 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.).
8. Lower the transmission onto the crossmember and remove the jack.
9. Install the transmission mount to crossmember retaining nuts (1) and tighten to 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.).
10. Position the steering rack to the frame, install the bolts (1) and tighten bolts/nuts to 258 N.m (190 ft. lbs.).
11. Lower the vehicle.
CRANKSHAFT
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
2. Remove the vibration damper (1) using Crankshaft Insert (special tool #8513A, Insert, Crankshaft) (2)
and Puller (special tool #1023, Puller) (3)
3. Remove the rear oil seal retainer. Refer to RETAINER, CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL,
REMOVAL, 5.7L .
4. Remove the oil pan. Refer to PAN, OIL, REMOVAL, 5.7L .
8. Remove the oil pump (1). Refer to PUMP, ENGINE OIL, REMOVAL, 5.7L .
Fig. 162: Timing Chain, Sprockets, Timing Chain Tensioner & Guide
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
9. Remove the timing chain (5) and sprockets (1, 3). Refer to CHAIN AND SPROCKETS, TIMING,
REMOVAL, 5.7L .
10. Identify rod bearing caps before removal. Remove rod bearing caps with bearings.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
1. Select the proper main bearings. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE - CRANKSHAFT MAIN
BEARING - FITTING .
2. Install main bearings in block (1).
NOTE: The main cap crossbolts are torqued after final torque of the main cap
bolts. Always use a new washer/seal on crossbolts.
7. Clean and oil all cap bolts. Install all main bearing caps (1) making sure the arrow (2) faces forward.
8. Tighten main bearing cap bolts to 13 N.m (10 ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown in illustration.
9. Tighten main bearing cap bolts to 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown in illustration.
10. Rotate main cap bolts an additional 90° in the sequence shown in illustration.
11. Install the crossbolts with new seal washer. Starting with crossbolt A,
12. Tighten crossbolt to 28 N.m (21 ft. lbs.).
13. Repeat crossbolt tightening procedure.
14. Measure crankshaft end play. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE - CRANKSHAFT MAIN
BEARING - FITTING .
15. Position the connecting rods onto the crankshaft and install the rod bearing caps. Refer to ROD, PISTON
AND CONNECTING, INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
Fig. 174: Timing Chain, Sprockets, Timing Chain Tensioner & Guide
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
16. Install timing chain (5) and sprockets (1, 3). Refer to CHAIN AND SPROCKETS, TIMING,
INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
17. Install the timing chain tensioner (4) and guide (2).
18. Install the oil pump (1). Refer to PUMP, ENGINE OIL, INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
19. Install the timing chain case cover (1) . Refer to COVER(S), ENGINE TIMING, INSTALLATION,
5.7L .
20. Install the rear main seal and retainer. Refer to RETAINER, CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL,
INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
23. Install the oil pick up tube (1) and tighten fasteners (2) to 28 Nm (248 in. lbs.).
24. Install the oil pan. Refer to PAN, OIL, INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
25. Install the vibration damper. Refer to DAMPER, VIBRATION, INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
26. Install the engine. Refer to INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
DAMPER, VIBRATION
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
9. Install the accessory drive belt (1). Refer to BELT, SERPENTINE, INSTALLATION .
10. If removed, install the secondary generator belt.
11. Connect the negative cable to battery.
FLEXPLATE
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
Fig. 182: Bolts, Clamping Ring, Friction Shim & Flex Plate
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
NOTE: A new bolts (1), clamp ring (2) must be used anytime the flex plate has been
removed. Do not lubricate new bolts as they are already coated with an anti-
scuff treatment.
NOTE: Align the flex plate to hub paint marks, where applicable.
1. Install the flex plate (4), friction shim (3), clamping ring (2) and tighten bolts (1) finger tight.
2. Use a crisscross pattern to tighten bolts to 137 N.m (100 ft. lbs.).
3. Install the transmission (Refer to appropriate AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION article).
Fig. 184: Bolts, Clamping Ring, Friction Shim & Flex Plate
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
NOTE: New bolts (5), clamp ring (4), and shims (1, 3) anytime the flex plate has been
removed. Do not lubricate new bolts as they are already coated with an anti-
scuff treatment.
NOTE: Align the flex plate to hub paint marks, where applicable.
1. Install the small friction shim (1), flex plate (2), large friction shim (3), clamping ring (4) and tighten
bolts (5) finger tight.
2. Use a crisscross pattern to tighten bolts to 137 N.m (100 ft. lbs.).
3. Install the transmission (Refer to appropriate AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION article).
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
The Multiple Displacement System (MDS) selectively deactivates cylinders 1, 4, 6 and 7 during steady speed,
low acceleration and shallow grade climbing conditions to increase fuel economy.
The MDS can provide a 5 to 20% fuel economy benefit when operating in four-cylinder mode. Depending on
driving habits and vehicle usage. For EPA rating purposes the fuel economy is 8 to 15% higher than if the
engine was operating on eight-cylinders at all times.
The MDS deactivating lifter (1) can be distinguished from the non-MDS lifter (2) by the disconnecting pin (3)
on the side of the MDS lifter.
MDS is integrated into the basic engine architecture requiring these additional components:
OPERATION
OPERATION
The Multiple Displacement System (MDS) provides cylinder deactivation during steady speed, low acceleration
and shallow grade climbing conditions to increase fuel economy. Both four and eight cylinder configurations
have even firing intervals to provide smooth operation. The MDS selectively deactivates cylinders 1, 4, 6, and
7, to improve fuel economy. All deactivated cylinders have unique hydraulic lifters that collapse when
deactivated to prevent the valves from opening. Engine oil pressure is used to activate and deactivate the valves.
Oil is delivered through special oil passages drilled into the cylinder block. The MDS solenoid valves control
the flow. When activated, pressurized oil pushes a latching pin on each MDS lifter which becomes a lost motion
link. The base of the MDS lifter follows the camshaft while the top remains stationary. The MDS lifter is held
in place against the pushrod by light spring pressure but unable to move because of the much higher force of the
valve spring.
NOTE: It is critical to use the recommended oil viscosity in engines that use MDS.
Deactivation occurs during the compression stroke of each cylinder, after air and fuel enter the cylinder.
Ignition occurs, but the combustion products remain trapped in the cylinder under high pressure, because the
valves no longer open. No fuel/air enters or leaves during subsequent piston strokes, this high pressure gas is
repeatedly compressed and expanded like an air spring.
Check the oil pressure before disassembling any part of the engine to correct tappet noise. If vehicle has no oil
pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at the pressure sending-unit. The pressure should be between 207-552
kPa (30-80 psi) at 3, 000 RPM.
Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal operating temperature. Allow five minutes for the oil level
to stabilize before checking the oil level. The oil level in the pan should never be above the FULL mark or
below the ADD OIL mark on the dipstick. Either of these two conditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.
HIGH
If the oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible for the connecting rods to dip into the oil. With the engine
running, this condition could create foam in the oil pan. Foam in the oil pan would be fed to the hydraulic
tappets by the oil pump causing them to lose length and allow the valves to seat noisily.
LOW
Low oil level may allow the oil pump to take in air. When air is fed to the tappets, they lose length, which
allows valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on the intake side of the oil pump through which air can be drawn
creates the same tappet action. Check the lubrication system from the intake strainer to the pump cover,
including the relief valve retainer cap. When tappet noise is due to aeration, it may be intermittent or constant,
and usually more than one tappet will be noisy. When the oil level and leaks have been corrected, operate the
engine at fast idle. Run the engine for a sufficient amount of time to allow all of the air inside the tappets to be
bleed out.
1. To determine the source of tappet noise, crank the engine over with the cylinder head covers removed.
2. Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect the noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected
spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in operation.
NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are sometimes mistaken for noisy
tappets. If such is the case, noise may be dampened by applying side
thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not appreciably reduced, it can be
assumed the noise is in the tappet. Inspect the rocker arm pushrod
sockets and pushrod ends for wear.
3. Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by excessive
leak-down around the unit plunger, or by the plunger partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder. The
tappet should be replaced. A heavy click is caused by a tappet check valve not seating, or by foreign
particles wedged between the plunger and the tappet body. This will cause the plunger to stick in the
down position. This heavy click will be accompanied by excessive clearance between the valve stem and
rocker arm as valve closes. In either case, tappet assembly should be removed for inspection and cleaning.
4. The valve train generates a noise very much like a light tappet noise during normal operation. Care must
be taken to ensure that tappets are making the noise. If more than one tappet seems to be noisy, it's
probably not the tappets.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
3. Remove the tappet guide holder retaining bolt (1) from the tappet guide holder assembly (2).
CAUTION: If the lifter and retainer assembly are to be reused, identify the lifters
to ensure installation in their original location or engine damage
could result.
4. Remove the tappet guide holder (1) and tappets (2) as an assembly.
5. Check the camshaft lobes for abnormal wear.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
The Multiple Displacement System (MDS) provides cylinder deactivation during steady speed, low acceleration
and shallow grade climbing conditions to increase fuel economy.
CAUTION: Engines equipped with MDS use both standard roller lifters (2) and
deactivating roller lifters (1). The deactivating roller lifters must be used in
cylinders 1, 4, 6, 7. The deactivating lifters can be identified by the two
holes in the side of the lifter body (3), for the latching pins.
CAUTION: If the lifters and guide holder assembly are to be reused, they must
me installed in their original location.
CAUTION: To prevent damage to valve assemblies, do not run the engine above
fast idle until all hydraulic lifters have filled with oil and have become
quiet.
The crankshaft rear oil seal is integral to the crankshaft rear oil seal retainer and cannot be serviced separately.
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the engine, a more
involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followed to help pinpoint the source of the leak.
5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is detected
between the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal
surface is damaged. The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that can be
polished out using an emery cloth.
6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done. Refer to
RETAINER, CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL, REMOVAL, 5.7L .
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
NOTE: The crankshaft rear oil seal is integral to the crankshaft rear oil seal retainer and
must be replaced as an assembly.
NOTE: The crankshaft rear oil seal retainer can not be reused after removal.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
NOTE: The crankshaft rear oil seal is integral to the crankshaft rear oil seal retainer and
must be replaced as an assembly.
NOTE: The crankshaft rear oil seal retainer can not be reused after removal.
RING(S), PISTON
STANDARD PROCEDURE
NOTE: Before reinstalling used rings or installing new rings, the ring clearances must
be checked.
NOTE: The ring gap measurement must be made with the ring positioned at least
12 mm (0.50 inch.) from bottom of cylinder bore.
3. Using a piston, to ensure that the ring is squared in the cylinder bore, slide the ring downward into the
cylinder.
4. Using a feeler gauge check the ring end gap. Replace any rings not within specification.
NOTE: Make sure the piston ring grooves are clean and free of nicks and burrs.
1. Measure the ring side clearance as shown in illustration, make sure the feeler gauge (1) fits snugly
between the ring land and the ring. Replace any ring not within specification.
2. Rotate the ring around the piston, the ring must rotate in the groove with out binding.
NOTE: The No. 1 and No. 2 piston rings have a different cross section. Ensure No. 2
ring is installed with manufacturers I.D. mark (Dot) facing up, towards top of the
piston.
NOTE: Install the piston rings so the gaps positioned as indicated with the piston
viewed from the top.
5. Install the oil expander so the ring gap is located in the (1) position.
6. Install the oil ring rails so the ring gap is located in the (2, 4) position.
7. Install the second compression ring so the ring gap is located in the (3) position.
8. Install the top compression so the ring gap is located in the (1) position.
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
CAUTION: Do not use a metal stamp to mark connecting rods as damage may result,
instead use ink or a scratch awl.
The pistons are made of a high strength aluminum alloy. Piston skirts are coated with a solid lubricant
(Molykote®) to reduce friction and provide scuff resistance. The piston top ring groove and land is anodized.
The connecting rods are made of forged powdered metal, with a fractured cap design.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
1. To correctly select the proper size piston, use Cylinder Indicator (special tool #C-119, Cylinder Indicator)
(2) to measure the inside diameter of the cylinder bore (3). A cylinder bore gauge capable of reading in
0.003 mm (0.0001 in.) Increments is required. If a bore gauge is not available, do not use an inside
micrometer.
2. Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder bore at a point 38.0 mm (1.5 inches) below the top of bore
(4). Start perpendicular (across or at 90°) to the axis of the crankshaft at point A (1) and then take an
additional bore reading 90° at point B (1).
3. The coated pistons will be serviced with the piston pin and connecting rod pre-assembled. The piston-rod
assembly is specific for the left cylinder bank (odd numbered) and the right cylinder bank (even
numbered) and must not be interchanged.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
1. Perform the fuel system pressure release procedure. Refer to FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE RELEASE .
2. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable (3).
Fig. 203: Makeup Air Hose, Air Cleaner Housing, Retaining Bolt & Intake Air Temperature
Sensor
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
11. Remove the steering gear mounting bolts (1) and position the steering gear (2) aside.
12. Remove the engine oil dipstick and tube from the oil pan.
13. Lower the vehicle.
14. Install the Engine Lift Fixture (special tool #8984B, Fixture, Engine Lifting) (1), Engine Lift Adapter
(special tool #8984-UPD, Adapter, Engine Lift) (2) and the Engine Support Fixture (special tool #8534B,
Fixture, Driveline Support) (3).
15. Raise the engine to provide clearance to remove the oil pan.
16. Raise and support the vehicle.
17. Remove the oil pan. Refer to PAN, OIL, REMOVAL, 5.7L .
18. Lower the vehicle.
19. Remove the timing chain cover. Refer to COVER(S), ENGINE TIMING, REMOVAL, 5.7L .
20. If necessary, remove the ridge on top of the cylinder bores with a reliable ridge reamer before removing
the pistons from the cylinder block. Be sure to keep the tops of the pistons covered during this
operation.
NOTE: Connecting rods and bearing caps are not interchangeable and should be
marked before removal to ensure correct reassembly.
CAUTION: Care must be taken not to damage the fractured rod and cap joint
face surfaces, as engine damage may occur.
NOTE: Pistons and connecting rods assemblies must be removed from the top of
cylinder block. When removing the piston and connecting rod assemblies
from the engine, rotate the crankshaft so each connecting rod is centered
in the cylinder bore.
23. Remove the connecting rod cap, install the Connecting Rod Guides (special tool #8507, Guides,
Connecting Rod) (1) and carefully remove the piston from the cylinder bore, repeat this procedure for
each piston being removed.
24. Immediately after removing the piston and connecting rod, install the bearing cap on the mating
connecting rod to prevent damage to the fractured cap and rod surfaces.
25. Carefully remove the piston rings from the piston(s), starting from the top ring down.
CLEANING
CLEANING
CAUTION: DO NOT use a wire wheel or other abrasive cleaning devise to clean the
pistons or connecting rods. The pistons have a Moly coating, this coating
must not be damaged.
1. Using a suitable cleaning solvent, clean the pistons in warm water and towel dry.
2. Use a wood or plastic scraper to clean the ring land grooves.
CAUTION: Do not remove the piston pin from the piston and connecting rod
assembly.
INSPECTION
INSPECTION
Check the connecting rod journal for excessive wear, taper and scoring. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE
- PISTON FITTING .
Check the piston for taper and elliptical shape before it is fitted into the cylinder bore. Refer to STANDARD
PROCEDURE - PISTON FITTING .
Check the piston for scoring or scraping marks in the piston skirts. Check the ring lands for cracks and/or
deterioration.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Before reinstalling used rings or installing new rings, the ring clearances must
be checked.
NOTE: Make sure the piston ring grooves are clean and free of nicks and burrs.
5. Install Connecting Rod Guides (special tool #8507, Guides, Connecting Rod) (1) into the connecting rod
bolt threads.
6. The pistons are marked on the piston pin bore surface with an raised "F" or arrow on top of piston
indicating installation position. This mark must be pointing toward the front of engine on both cylinder
banks.
7. Wipe cylinder bore clean and lubricate with clean engine oil.
8. Rotate the crankshaft until the connecting rod journal is centered with the cylinder bore.
9. Insert the piston and rod assembly into the cylinder bore and carefully position the connecting rod over
the crankshaft journal.
10. Tap the piston down into the cylinder bore using a hammer handle while guiding the connecting rod into
position on the rod journal.
11. Remove the Connecting Rod Guides (special tool #8507, Guides, Connecting Rod).
12. Wipe the connecting rod cap (1) clean and lubricate with clean engine oil and install the bearing (3).
NOTE: The connecting rods and bearing caps are not interchangeable, line up the
previously marked bearing caps and connecting rods to ensure assembly
to their original location.
13. Lubricate the bearing surfaces with clean engine oil and position the rod cap in place.
CAUTION: When installing the connecting rods, make sure the wide side of the
connecting rod faces the crankshaft and the narrow sides face each
other.
CAUTION: Always replace the connecting rod bolts whenever they are loosened
or removed.
14. Lubricate the new rod cap bolts with clean engine oil, install and tighten to 21 N.m (15 ft. lbs.) plus 90°.
15. Install the timing chain cover. Refer to COVER(S), ENGINE TIMING, INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
16. Install the new oil pan gasket/windage tray and oil pan. Refer to PAN, OIL, INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
17. Install the engine oil dipstick tube and dipstick.
18. Lower the vehicle.
19. Using the Engine Lift Fixture (special tool #8984B, Fixture, Engine Lifting) (1), Engine Lift Adapter
(special tool #8984-UPD, Adapter, Engine Lift) (2) and the Engine Support Fixture (special tool #8534B,
Fixture, Driveline Support) (3) lower the engine into position and remove.
20. Raise and support the vehicle.
21. Position the steering gear (2), install mounting bolts (1) and tighten to 95 N.m (70 ft. lbs.).
22. Install the engine mount nuts (1, 2) and tighten to 95 N.m (70 ft. lbs.).
23. Lower the vehicle.
24. Install the cylinder head(s). Refer to CYLINDER HEAD, INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
Fig. 217: Makeup Air Hose, Air Cleaner Housing, Retaining Bolt & Intake Air Temperature
Sensor
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
25. Position the air cleaner housing (2), install the air cleaner housing retaining bolt (3) and securely tighten.
26. Connect the makeup air hose (1).
27. Connect the intake air temperature sensor (4) electrical connector.
28. Connect the air duct to the throttle body and tighten clamp to 3 N.m (30 in. lbs.).
29. Fill the engine with oil. Refer to OIL, STANDARD PROCEDURE .
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
9. Using Seal Remover (special tool #9071, Remover, Seal) (1), remove crankshaft front seal (2).
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The front crankshaft seal must be installed dry. Do not apply lubricant to
the sealing lip or the outer edge.
1. Using Crankshaft Front Oil Seal Installer (special tool #9072, Installer, Seal) (2) and Damper Installer
(special tool #10387, Installer, Vibration Damper) (1), install crankshaft front seal.
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
The crankshaft rear oil seal is integral to the crankshaft rear oil seal retainer, for more information. Refer to the
following;
Diagnosis and Testing . Refer to RETAINER, CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL, DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING .
Removal . Refer to RETAINER, CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL, REMOVAL, 5.7L .
Installation . Refer to RETAINER, CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL, INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
The Multi Displacement System selectively deactivates cylinders 1, 4, 6, and 7, to improve fuel economy. It has
two modes of operation:
OPERATION
OPERATION
Cylinder Deactivation
Cylinder Reactivation
solenoid circuit
fail to deactivate a cylinder(s)
fail to reactivate a cylinder(s)
low oil pressure
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
Fig. 223: Intake Manifold Foam Insulator Pad, MDS Solenoids & Bolts
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
4. Remove the Multiple Displacement Solenoid (MDS) (2) electrical connector(s) (1).
5. Remove the MDS solenoid (2) retaining bolt(s) (3).
CAUTION: Do not try to pry the solenoid out. This could lead to breakage and
contamination of the lubrication system.
6. Lightly tap on the MDS solenoid(s) with a rubber mallet. Rotate the MDS solenoid(s) from side to side to
break the seal.
7. Remove the MDS solenoid(s).
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
Fig. 226: Intake Manifold Foam Insulator Pad, MDS Solenoids & Bolts
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
1. Verify the MDS solenoid bores are free of debris before installing the MDS solenoid into the engine
block.
2. Install the MDS solenoid(s) (3), ensure the seal is fully seated into the engine block.
3. Install the retaining bolt(s) (2) and tighten to 11 N.m (8 ft. lbs.).
4. Connect the MDS electrical connector to the solenoid(s) (3).
5. Install the foam insulator pad (1).
6. Install the intake manifold. Refer to MANIFOLD, INTAKE, INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
ENGINE MOUNTING
INSULATOR, ENGINE MOUNT, REAR (TRANSMISSION)
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
Fig. 227: Transmission Mount Nuts, Upper Mount Bracket, Bolts, Heat Shields, Mount & Lower Nuts
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
Fig. 228: Transmission Mount Nuts, Upper Mount Bracket, Bolts, Heat Shields, Mount & Lower Nuts
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
1. If removed, position the heat shields (4) onto the insulator (5).
2. Position the insulator to the upper transmission mount bracket (2). Tighten the nuts (1) to 61 N.m (45 ft.
lbs.).
3. Align the transmission mount to the transmission.
4. Install the bolts (3) that attach the transmission bracket to the transmission. Tighten the bolts to 64 N.m
(47 ft. lbs.).
5. Lower the transmission so the transmission mount rest on the crossmember and the studs of the
transmission mount are aligned in the slots in the crossmember.
6. Install the nuts (6) onto the transmission mount studs through the crossmember access slot.
7. Tighten the nuts to 61 N.m (45 ft. lbs.).
8. Lower the vehicle.
REMOVAL
INSULATOR, LEFT
2WD
NOTE: Loosening of both front engine mount through bolts will be required for
lifting of the engine.
11. Remove the bolts (2) that secure the engine mount (1) to the engine block.
12. Remove insulator from engine.
9. Remove the bolts (1) that attach the front axle pinion housing to the left engine bracket.
10. Lower the front axle.
14. From the upper engine mount bracket (2). Remove the upper engine mount through bolt (3).
15. Remove the upper engine bracket to mount guide bolt (1).
16. Remove the engine mounts from below the vehicle.
INSULATOR, RIGHT
2WD
NOTE: Loosening of both front engine mount through bolts will be required for
lifting of the engine.
11. Remove the bolts (2) that secure the engine mount (1) to the engine block.
12. Remove insulator from below the vehicle.
9. Remove the bolts (1) that attach the front axle pinion housing to the left engine bracket.
10. Lower the front axle.
14. Remove the upper engine bracket (1) to mount through bolt (3).
15. Remove the upper engine bracket to mount guide bolt (2).
16. Remove the engine mount from below the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
INSULATOR, LEFT
2WD
1. With the vehicle raised. Position the engine mount (1) on the engine.
2. Install upper and lower mount mounting bolts (2). Tighten bolts to 64 N.m (47 ft. lbs.).
3. Center the engine mount through bolt.
4. Lower the vehicle.
NOTE: For mount to engine block and left engine bracket to front axle bolts, apply
Mopar® Lock and Seal Adhesive, Medium Strength Threadlocker.
6. Install the engine mount (1) through bolt nut. Tighten to 130 N.m (96 ft. lbs.).
7. Position the heat shield (2) onto the engine mount through bolt (4). Tighten the nut (3) to 55 N.m (41 ft.
lbs.).
NOTE: Removing the stabilizer bar mounts and positioning the stabilizer bar
below the frame will provide adequate room for torquing the front upper
axle bolt.
8. Remove stabilizer bar bolts (1) and position stabilizer bar (2) below crossmember.
11. Position the stabilizer bar to the crossmember. Tighten the bolts to 59 N.m (44 ft. lbs.).
12. Install the pinion housing to engine bracket bolts (1). Tighten bolts to 120 N.m (89 ft. lbs.).
13. Install the crossmember. Refer to CROSSMEMBER, LOWER CONTROL ARM, INSTALLATION
and/or CROSSMEMBER, TRANSMISSION, INSTALLATION .
14. Install the front skid plate. Install the bolts (3) and tighten to 18 N.m (13 ft. lbs.).
15. Lower the vehicle.
INSULATOR, RIGHT
2WD
1. With the vehicle raised. Position the engine mount (1) on the engine.
2. Install upper and lower mount mounting bolts (2). Tighten bolts to 64 N.m (47 ft. lbs.).
3. Center the engine mount through bolt.
4. Lower the vehicle.
7. Install the nut to the engine mount through bolt (3). Tighten the bolt to 130 N.m (96 ft. lbs.).
8. Install the engine mount heat shield (1). Tighten the nut (4) to 55 N.m (41 ft. lbs.).
9. Lower the vehicle.
NOTE: For mount to engine block and left engine bracket to front axle bolts, apply
Mopar® Lock and Seal Adhesive, Medium Strength Threadlocker.
5. Install the engine mount through bolt. Tighten the nut (3) for through bolt to 130 N.m (96 ft. lbs.).
6. Position the heat shield (1) onto the engine mount through bolt. Tighten the nut (4) to 55 N.m (41 ft. lbs.).
NOTE: Removing the stabilizer bar mounts and positioning the stabilizer bar
below the frame will provide adequate room for torquing the front upper
axle bolt.
7. Remove stabilizer bar bolts (1) and position stabilizer bar (2) below crossmember.
11. Install the pinion housing to engine bracket bolts (1). Tighten bolts to 120 N.m (89 ft. lbs.).
12. Install the crossmember. Refer to CROSSMEMBER, LOWER CONTROL ARM, INSTALLATION
and/or CROSSMEMBER, TRANSMISSION, INSTALLATION .
13. Install the front skid plate. Install the bolts (3) and tighten to 18 N.m (13 ft. lbs.).
14. Lower the vehicle.
LUBRICATION
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
The 5.7L MDS lubrication system is a full flow filtration pressure feed type.
1. Remove the oil pressure sending unit and install gauge assembly (special tool #C-3292A, Gauge,
Pressure).
2. Run the engine until thermostat opens.
3. Oil Pressure:
Curb Idle-25 kPa (4 psi) minimum
3000 rpm-170 - 758 kPa (25 - 110 psi)
4. If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine. Check for a clogged oil pick-up screen or a pressure relief
valve stuck open.
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak. If an oil
leak source is not readily identifiable, the following steps should be followed:
1. Do not clean or degrease the engine at this time because some solvents may cause rubber to swell,
temporarily stopping the leak.
2. Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
3. Using a black light, inspect the entire engine for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area of the
oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified, repair per Service Information instructions.
4. If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at various speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and repeat
inspection.
NOTE: If the oil indicator tube is located in the engine oil pan. A plug (1) is
inserted into the hole on the engine block (2). Validation of the plug is
required when the engine block has been replaced.
1. Remove the PCV valve from the IAFM. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
2. Attach an air hose with a pressure gauge and regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to more than 20.6 kPa (3 PSI) of
test pressure.
3. Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5 psi maximum while applying soapy water at the suspected
source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable test pressure that provide the best bubbles which will pinpoint
the leak source. If the oil leak is detected and identified, repair per Service Information procedures.
4. If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area. Refer to INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA
LEAKS .
5. If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps. Install the
PCV valve.
6. Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various speeds
approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the engine, a more
involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followed to help pinpoint the source of the leak.
5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is detected
between the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal
surface is damaged. The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that can be
polished out with emery cloth.
6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
All engines are equipped with a high quality full-flow, disposable type oil filter. Chrysler Corporation
recommends a Mopar® or equivalent oil filter be used.
5. With a wiping cloth, clean the gasket sealing surface of oil and grime.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
1. Lightly lubricate the oil filter gasket (2) with engine oil.
2. Thread the oil filter (3) onto adapter nipple and when the gasket makes contact with sealing surface (1),
rotate the filter 360° or one full turn, do not over tighten.
3. Add oil, verify crankcase oil level and start engine. Inspect for oil leaks.
OIL
STANDARD PROCEDURE
The engine oil level indicator is located at the left hand of the engine on the 5.7L engines.
CAUTION: Do not overfill crankcase with engine oil, pressure loss or oil foaming can
result.
Inspect engine oil level approximately every 800 kilometers (500 miles). Unless the engine has exhibited loss of
oil pressure, run the engine for about ten minutes before checking oil level. Checking engine oil level on a cold
engine is not accurate.
To ensure proper lubrication of an engine, the engine oil must be maintained at an acceptable level. The
acceptable levels are indicated between the ADD and SAFE marks on the engine oil dipstick.
It is recommended that the engine oil level should be checked when the engine is at operating temperature.
Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals described in Maintenance Schedules. Refer to
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES, DESCRIPTION .
NOTE: Care should be exercised when disposing used engine oil after it has been
drained from a vehicle engine. Refer to applicable disposal laws.
PAN, OIL
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
4X2
4. Remove the structural dust cover (2). Refer to COVER, STRUCTURAL DUST, REMOVAL, 5.7L .
5. Remove the fan and the fan shroud.
6. Drain engine oil.
7. Disconnect transmission fluid cooler lines at radiator, transmission fittings and clips.
9. Raise engine using Engine Support Fixture (special tool #8534B, Fixture, Driveline Support) (1) to
provide clearance to remove oil pan.
NOTE: Do not pry on oil pan or oil pan gasket. The gasket is integral to engine
windage tray and does not come out with oil pan.
NOTE: If more clearance is needed to remove oil pan the transmission mount can
be removed, and the transmission can be raised to gain clearance.
NOTE: The double ended oil pan studs must be installed in the same location that
they were removed from.
10. Remove the oil pan mounting bolts using the sequence provided.
11. Unbolt oil pump pickup tube and remove tube.
NOTE: When the oil pan is removed, a new integral windage tray and gasket
assembly must be installed. The old gasket cannot be reused.
12. Discard the integral windage tray and gasket and replace.
4X4
NOTE: The front axle must be lowered to remove the oil pan on 4X4 vehicles.
NOTE: When the oil pan is removed, a new integral windage tray and gasket
assembly must be installed. The old gasket cannot be reused.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
1. Clean the oil pan gasket mating surface of the block and oil pan.
NOTE: Mopar® Engine RTV must be applied to the four T-joints (1, 2). The bead of
RTV should cover the bottom of the gasket. This area is approximately 4.5
mm x 25 mm in each of the four T-joint locations.
NOTE: When the oil pan is removed, a new integral windage tray and gasket
assembly must be installed. The old gasket cannot be reused.
NOTE: The double ended oil pan studs must be installed in the same location that
they were removed from.
5. Position the oil pan and install the mounting bolts and studs. Tighten the mounting bolts to 12 N.m (105
in.lbs.).
7. Install the structural cover (2). Refer to COVER, STRUCTURAL DUST, INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
8. Lower the engine into mounts using Engine Support Fixture (special tool #8534B, Fixture, Driveline
Support) (1).
9. Install both the left and right side engine mount through bolts. Tighten the nuts to 68 N.m (50 ft. lbs.).
10. Reinstall the front axle, if removed.
11. Install the steering rack, if removed.
12. Install the rear transmission mount, if removed.
13. Remove Engine Support Fixture (special tool #8534B, Fixture, Driveline Support) (1).
14. Install the front crossmember. Refer to CROSSMEMBER, LOWER CONTROL ARM,
INSTALLATION and/or CROSSMEMBER, TRANSMISSION, INSTALLATION .
15. Install the fan shroud and fan.
16. Fill engine oil.
17. Connect the negative battery cable.
18. Start engine and check for leaks.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
CLEANING
CLEANING
INSPECTION
INSPECTION
Fig. 284: Measuring Clearance Between Outer Rotor & Body Of Oil Pump
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
CAUTION: The oil pump pressure relief valve and spring should not be removed from
the oil pump. If these components are disassembled and or removed from
the pump the entire oil pump assembly must be replaced.
4. Install the inner rotor into the oil pump body. Measure the clearance between the inner (3) and outer
rotors (1). If the clearance between the rotors is 0.150 mm (0.006 in.) or more the oil pump assembly
must be replaced.
5. Place a straight edge (1) across the body of the oil pump (between the bolt holes), if a feeler gauge (2) of
0.095 mm (0.0038 in.) or greater can be inserted between the straightedge and the rotors, the pump must
be replaced.
6. Reinstall the pump cover. Tighten fasteners to 15 N.m (132 in. lbs.).
NOTE: The 5.7 Oil pump is serviced as an assembly. In the event the oil pump is not
functioning or out of specification, it must be replaced as an assembly.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
1. Position the oil pump on the crankshaft and install the oil pump retaining bolts finger tight.
2. Using the sequence shown in illustration, tighten the oil pump retaining bolts to 28 N.m (21 ft. lbs.).
3. Install the timing cover. Refer to COVER(S), ENGINE TIMING, INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
4. Install the oil pan. Refer to PAN, OIL, INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
The oil pressure sensor returns a voltage signal back to the PCM with. Reference to oil pressure. Ground for the
sensor is supplied by the PCM.
The oil pressure sensor is located on the right side of the engine block. The sensor screws into the engines main
oil gallery.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Apply Mopar® Thread Sealant with PTFE to the sensor threads with before
installing into the engine block.
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
The oil temperature sensor is a Negative Thermal Coefficient sensor. The resistance of the sensor changes as oil
temperature changes. This results in different output voltages back to the PCM.
The oil temperature sensor is located on the right side of the engine block.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Apply Mopar® Thread Sealant with PTFE to the sensor threads before installing
into the engine block.
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
The 5.7L engine is equipped with Variable Cam Timing (VCT). This system uses an variable valve timing
solenoid to direct oil pressure into the camshaft phaser assembly. The camshaft phaser assembly advances
and/or retards camshaft timing to improve engine performance, mid-range torque, idle quality, fuel economy,
and reduce emissions. The VVTS is located under the intake manifold.
OPERATION
OPERATION
The Variable Cam Timing (VCT) assembly is actuated with engine oil pressure. The oil flow to the VCT
assembly is controlled by an Variable Valve Timing Solenoid (VVTS). The VVTS consists of a Pulse Width
Modulated (PWM) solenoid and a spool valve. The PCM actuates the VVTS to control oil flow through the
spool valve into the VCT assembly. The VCT assembly consists of a rotor and a stator/sprocket. The
stator/sprocket is connected to the timing chain. The rotor is connected to the camshaft. Oil flow into the VCT
assembly rotates the rotor with respect to the stator, thus rotating the camshaft with respect to the
stator/sprocket. This will rotate both the intake and exhaust lobes on the camshaft by the same amount. The
intake and exhaust lobes can not be individually controlled with this VCT system. An infinitely variable valve
timing position can be achieved within the limits of the hardware. The camshaft position sensor monitors the
position of the camshaft with respect to the crankshaft and provides feedback to the PCM.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
MANIFOLDS
MANIFOLD, EXHAUST
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
hang by the oxygen sensor wires will damage the harness and/or
sensor.
5. Saturate the front exhaust pipe/catalytic converter retaining bolts and nuts with Mopar® Rust Penetrant or
7. Loosen the right and left engine mount through bolts (3).
NOTE: The stud-bolts used to secure the exhaust manifold are at locations 5, 9, 7
and 8. All bolts removed must be installed in the same location were they
were removed from.
Using the sequence shown in illustration, remove the exhaust manifold retaining bolts.
13. Remove the EGR intake tube nuts (2) at the Left side exhaust manifold.
NOTE: The stud-bolts and washers used to secure the exhaust manifold are at
locations 6, 9, 8 and 10. All bolts removed must be installed in the same
location were they were removed from.
CLEANING
CLEANING
Clean mating surfaces on cylinder head and manifold. Wash with solvent and blow dry with compressed air.
INSPECTION
INSPECTION
Inspect mating surfaces of manifold for flatness with a straight edge. Gasket surfaces must be flat within 0.2
mm per 300 mm (0.008 inch per foot).
INSTALLATION
1. Prior to installation, make sure all gasket mating surfaces (1, 2) are clean and free of any debris.
2. Position the exhaust manifold gasket and manifold.
3. Left Side:
Install a new EGR cooler intake pipe gasket onto the exhaust manifold.
Align the exhaust manifold to the EGR cooler intake pipe.
Using the sequence shown in illustration, Install the exhaust manifold retaining bolts and pre-
tighten to 16 N.m (12 ft. lbs.) allowing the gasket to seat to the exhaust manifold and cylinder head.
Install the oil indicator tube.
Connect the knock sensor electrical connector.
4. Re-check the torque at 30 N.m (22 ft. lbs.) using the sequence shown in illustration.
5. Install the heat shield. Refer to ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS .
NOTE: The bolts used to secure the exhaust manifold are stainless steel at
locations 7 and 8. All bolts removed must be installed in the same location
were they were removed from.
6. Right Side: Using the sequence shown in illustration, install the exhaust manifold retaining bolts and
tighten to 16 N.m (12 ft. lbs.) allowing the gasket to seat to the exhaust manifold and cylinder head.
7. Re-check the torque at 25 N.m (18 ft. lbs.) using the sequence shown in illustration.
8. Install the heat shield. Refer to ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS .
9. Install the inner wheel well splash shield.
10. Install the front wheels.
11. Lower the engine onto the frame and remove the jack stand.
12. Raise the vehicle.
13. Install the right and left engine mount through bolts (3) and tighten to 100 N.m (74 ft. lbs.).
14. Install the right (2) and left (1) exhaust pipe/catalytic converter assembly. Tighten the bolts to 100 N.m
16. Install the EGR intake tube nuts (2). Tighten the to 23 N.m (17 ft. lbs.).
1. Prior to installation, make sure all gasket mating surfaces (1, 2) are clean and free of any debris.
2. Position the exhaust manifold gasket and manifold to the engine.
Fig. 314: Locating Exhaust Manifold Bolts & Washers Placement Locations
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
NOTE: A special coating is used on the bolts and washers for extreme heat.
Placement of the bolts and washers are crucial for expansion and
contraction due to extreme heat.
3. Left Side:
NOTE: Initial torque of all the bolts are 16 N.m (12 ft. lbs.) allowing the gasket to
seat to the exhaust manifold and cylinder head.
Install a new EGR cooler intake pipe gasket onto the exhaust manifold.
Align the exhaust manifold to the EGR cooler intake pipe.
Install the non-coated standard stud bolts with coated washers into position #4.
Install the coated stud bolts with coated washers into position #5.
Install a coated bolt with a coated washer in position #1.
Install a coated bolt only in position #2.
Install a non-coated standard bolt with a coated washer in position #3.
1 19 14
2, 3, 4 25 18
5, 6 16 12
7, 8, 25 18
9 16 12
10 25 18
Fig. 316: Locating Exhaust Manifold Bolts & Washers Placement Locations
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
NOTE: A special coating is used on the bolts and washers for extreme heat.
Placement of the bolts and washers are crucial for expansion and
contraction due to extreme heat.
8. Right Side:
NOTE: Initial torque of all the bolts are 16 N.m (12 ft. lbs.) allowing the gasket to
seat to the exhaust manifold and cylinder head.
Install a new EGR cooler intake pipe gasket onto the exhaust manifold.
Align the exhaust manifold to the EGR cooler intake pipe.
Install the non-coated standard stud bolts with coated washers into position #4.
Install the coated stud bolts with coated washers into position #5.
Install a coated bolt with a coated washer in position #1.
Install a coated bolt only in position #2.
Install a non-coated standard bolt with a coated washer in position #3.
1 19 14
2, 3, 4 25 18
5, 6 16 12
7, 8, 25 18
9 16 12
10 25 18
13. Lower the engine onto the frame and remove the jack stand.
14. Raise the vehicle.
15. Install the right and left engine mount through bolts (3) and tighten to 100 N.m (74 ft. lbs.).
16. Install the right (2) and left (1) exhaust pipe/catalytic converter assembly. Tighten the bolts to 100 N.m
18. Install the EGR intake tube nuts (2). Tighten the to 23 N.m (17 ft. lbs.).
MANIFOLD, INTAKE
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION
The intake manifold is made of a composite material and features a dual shaft Short Runner Valve (SRV)
system to maximize both low end torque and peak power. The SRV is bolted to the front of the intake manifold
and can be service separately from the manifold. The manifold uses a single plane sealing system with
individual port seals and a separate PCV port seal to prevent leaks.
An intake manifold air leak is characterized by lower than normal manifold vacuum. Also, one or more
cylinders may not be functioning.
WARNING: Use extreme caution when the engine is operating. Do not stand in a
direct line with the fan. Do not put your hands near the pulleys, belts or
the fan. Do not wear loose clothing. Failure to follow these instructions
may result in possible serious or fatal injury.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor electrical connector (2).
4. Lift up the front of the engine cover (1) and separate the engine cover front grommets (2) from the ball
studs on the intake manifold.
5. Perform the fuel pressure release procedure. Refer to FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE RELEASE .
NOTE: Excessive fuel spillage onto the gaskets can cause gaskets to expand and
dislodge from the gasket groove.
7. Disconnect the fuel supply line quick connect fitting at the fuel rail (1) and plug the fuel supply line with
a shipping cap to prevent spillage. Refer to FITTING, QUICK CONNECT .
NOTE: The factory fuel injection electrical harness is numerically tagged (INJ 1,
INJ 2, etc.) for injector position identification. If the harness was not
tagged, note the electrical connector's location during removal.
Fig. 327: Injectors Harness Connectors & Ignition Coil Harness Connectors
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
9. Disconnect the electrical connectors to all fuel injectors (1) and position the fuel injector electrical
harness aside.
10. Remove the main engine electrical harness groom at the rear of the intake manifold and position harness
aside.
12. If equipped with a secondary generator. Remove the wiring harness from the intake manifold.
13. Remove the primary generator (1) and position aside.
14. Disconnect the electrical connectors (2) at the throttle body (1) and reposition the harness.
Fig. 331: Purge Solenoid, Electrical Connector & Vapor Line Quick-Connect Fitting
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
Using the sequence shown in illustration, loosen the intake manifold retaining bolts.
CLEANING
CLEANING
NOTE: There is NO approved repair procedure for the intake manifold. If severe
damage is found during inspection, the intake manifold must be replaced.
Before installing the intake manifold thoroughly clean the mating surfaces. Use a suitable cleaning solvent, then
air dry.
INSPECTION
INSPECTION
1. Inspect the intake manifold sealing surface for cracks, nicks and distortion.
2. Inspect the intake manifold vacuum hose fittings for looseness or blockage.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Inspect seal conditions. Seals can be re-used, if not damaged. Position seal in
the seal channel and press lightly into place. Repeat procedure for each seal
position.
NOTE: If reinstalling the original manifold apply Mopar® Lock & Seal Adhesive to the
intake manifold bolts. Not required when installing a new manifold.
1. Apply Mopar® Lock & Seal Adhesive to the intake manifold bolts.
2. Install the intake manifold seals (3) and positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) seals (1).
3. Using the sequence shown in illustration, tighten the intake manifold bolts to 12 N.m (9 ft. lbs.).
4. Position the main engine electrical harness at the rear of the intake manifold and install the support strap.
5. Connect the fuel supply line quick connect fitting at the fuel rail (1).
NOTE: The factory fuel injection electrical harness is numerically tagged (INJ 1,
INJ 2, etc.) for injector position identification. If the harness was not
tagged, use the noted the electrical connector's location during removal.
6. Position the fuel injector electrical harness and connect the electrical connectors (1) to all fuel injectors.
8. Install the EGR crossover tube (2). Tighten bolts (1) to 24 N.m (18 ft. lbs.).
9. Install the generator (1). Torque the bolts to 50 N.m (37 ft. lbs.).
10. Position the A/C line Bracket (2) to the manifold. Torque the bolt (1) to 50 N.m (37 ft. lbs.).
11. Position the wiring harness (2) and connect the electrical connector at the throttle body (1).
NOTE: While installing the engine cover the front ball studs will make a popping
or suction sound as the ball studs are inserted into the front grommets.
12. Lower the front of the engine cover (1) and line up the front grommets (2) with the ball studs on the front
of the intake manifold and with a downward motion push the engine cover front grommets onto the ball
studs.
NOTE: Lightly lift the front of the engine cover to insure the front ball studs are
seated into the front grommets correctly.
13. Connect the intake air tube to the air cleaner assembly and the throttle body.
14. Connect the breather air hose (3).
VALVE TIMING
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove water pump for timing chain cover removal.
3. Remove the timing chain cover. Refer to COVER(S), ENGINE TIMING, REMOVAL, 5.7L .
4. Verify the slide bushings (1) remain installed in the timing chain cover during removal.
5. Remove the oil pump retaining bolts (2) and remove the oil pump (1).
6. Install the vibration damper bolt finger tight. Using a suitable socket and breaker bar, rotate the crankshaft
to align the timing marks with the timing chain sprockets (1, 2).
7. Retract the chain tensioner arm (1) until the hole in the arm lines up with the hole in the bracket.
8. Install the Tensioner Pin (special tool #8514, Pins, Tensioner) (1) into the chain tensioner holes.
9. Remove the camshaft phaser retaining bolt (1) and remove the timing chain with the camshaft phaser and
crankshaft sprocket.
NOTE: Inspect the timing chain tensioner and timing chain guide shoes for wear
and replace as necessary.
10. If the timing chain tensioner is being replaced, remove the retaining bolts (3) and remove the timing chain
tensioner (2).
CAUTION: Do not rotate the crankshaft more than a few degrees independently
of the camshafts. Piston to valve contact could occur resulting in
possible valve damage. If the crankshaft needs to be rotated more
than a few degrees, first remove the camshafts.
11. If the timing chain guide (1) is being replaced, remove the retaining bolts (2) and remove the timing chain
guide.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: This is a Zero-Tolerance engine. Failure to properly align the timing chain
to the timing gears will cause severe engine damage. It is imperative that
the Timing Marks shown in the subsequent steps be properly aligned
during assembly.
CAUTION: Do not rotate the camshaft more than a few degrees independently of
the crankshaft. Valve to piston contact could occur resulting in
possible valve damage. If the camshaft need to be rotated more than
a few degrees, first move the pistons away from the cylinder heads
by rotating the crankshaft counterclockwise to a position 30°before-
top-dead-center. Once the camshaft is returned to their top-dead-
center position, rotate the crankshaft clockwise to return the
crankshaft to top-dead-center.
1. Install the crankshaft sprocket (1) and position halfway onto the crankshaft.
2. While holding the camshaft phaser in hand, position the timing chain on the camshaft phaser and align the
timing marks as shown in illustration.
3. While holding the camshaft phaser and timing chain in hand, position the timing chain on the crankshaft
sprocket and align the timing mark as shown in illustration.
4. Align the slot in the camshaft phaser with the dowel on the camshaft and position the camshaft phaser on
the camshaft while sliding the crankshaft sprocket into position.
6. If removed, install the timing chain guide (1) and tighten the bolts (2) to 11 N.m (8 ft. lbs.).
7. If removed, install the timing chain tensioner (2) and tighten the bolts (3) to 11 N.m (8 ft. lbs.).
8. Remove the tensioner pin (special tool #8514, Pins, Tensioner) (1).
NOTE: The timing mark located on the camshaft phaser must be properly
centered between the dual marks on the timing chain while at the 12
O'clock position (1). The timing mark located on the crankshaft must be
properly aligned with the single mark on the timing chain while at the 6
O'clock position (2).
9.
10. Verify that the chains are operating smoothly. The chain must be replaced if:
Any kinks
Signs of binding
Damage to the links
Signs of wear or stretching
11. Tighten the camshaft phaser bolt (1) to 98 N.m (72 ft. lbs.).
12. Position the oil pump (1) onto the crankshaft and install the oil pump retaining bolts (2) finger tight.
13. Using the sequence shown in illustration, tighten the oil pump retaining bolts to 28 N.m (21 ft. lbs.).
14. Verify the slide bushings (1) are installed in the timing chain cover.
15. Install the timing chain cover. Refer to COVER(S), ENGINE TIMING, INSTALLATION, 5.7L .
16. Fill the engine with oil.
17. Fill the cooling system. Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE .
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
Fig. 366: Engine Cover, Clean Air Hose, Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Electrical Connector &
Air Cleaner Housing
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
11. Remove upper radiator hose (1) at the thermostat housing (3).
12. Disconnect the temperature sensor electrical connector (2).
15. Remove accessory drive belt tensioner and both idler pulleys.
16. Remove crankshaft damper (2). Refer to DAMPER, VIBRATION, REMOVAL, 5.7L .
17. If equipped, remove power steering pump and set aside.
18. Raise the vehicle.
NOTE: If equipped with 4WD. The front axle housing requires to be lowered but
does not require removal from the vehicle.
21. Disconnect and position aside the axle disconnect actuator (2) wiring connector (1).
22. Mark (4) and remove the front drive shaft (2) at the front axle flange (1).
23. Remove the bolts (1) that support the axle pinion to the transmission.
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove water pump for timing cover removal.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION
2. Verify that the slide bushings (1) are installed in timing cover.
3. Install cover and new gasket. Tighten fasteners to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.).
NOTE: The large lifting stud is tightened to 55 N.m (40 ft. lbs.).
5. Install the A/C compressor (2). Tighten each of the bolts to 28 N.m (21 ft. lbs.) using the following
sequence:
Upper bolt at front of compressor.
10. If removed. Install the axle assembly (Refer to appropriate REAR AXLE article).
11. Lower the vehicle.
12. Install the generator (2). Tighten the bolts (2) to 50 N.m (37 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 393: Engine Cover, Clean Air Hose, Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Electrical
Connector & Air Cleaner Housing
Courtesy of CHRYSLER GROUP, LLC
STANDARD PROCEDURE
1. Install the washer (1), spring (2), and plunger (3) inside the tensioner body (4).
2. Squeeze the tensioner body (3) and movable guide shoe (2) together and install the Tensioner Pin (special
tool #8514, Pins, Tensioner) (1).