Shah Wali
Shah Wali
Shah Wali
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Sayyid Shah Wali - Missionary and Miracle-worker
Notes on the Hagiography and Cult of a Muslim Saint
in Nager and Hunza (Northern Pakistan)
1 Jettmar 1989, pp. 62-64; Dani 1989a, pp. 166-167, 170, 176, 195, 216-217; Caco-
pardo/Cacopardo 2001, pp. 33-34, 38, 54.
2 Frembgen 1999, pp. 83-84.
3 Dani 1989b, pp. 151, 153.
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70 Jürgen Wasim Frembgen
4 For the Muslim saints of Hunza cf. Müller- Stellrecht 1979, pp. 236-242.
5 The shajara nasab (genealogy), which I could photograph, was compiled in 1958 by
Darbesh Mohammad from Ghulmeth and gives an alleged pedigree starting with Adam.
6 Green 2003, pp. 501-502.
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Sayyid Shah Wali - Missionary and Miracle-worker 71
God") which is added to the Shi a call to prayer. Furthermore, the descend-
ants of his servant are called Darbeshkuts ("dervishes") in Nager - but no
information on a Sufi affiliation has been handed down to us.
Documents written in Persian as well as oral sources report that Shah
Wali reached Nager in the early 18th century at a time when part of the popu-
lation had already been (superficially) converted to Islam. It is said that he
came to Ghulmeth in the year 1140 Hijri (= 1727 ce)7 when Tham Rahim
Shah ruled Nager (about 1720-1762). The earlier Islamization is attributed
to Sayyid Shah Buria who is said to have reached Nager in the time of Rahim
Shah's father Tham Kamal Khan (about 1120 Hijri = 1708 ce). The saint
originally belonged to Iran and came via Kashmir and Baltistan. According
to local oral and written sources, he was accompanied by the forefathers of
the Kashmiriting, a kinship group whose members are often religious schol-
ars and functionaries. The names of these companions of Shah Buria are
Abul Hasan Isfahani (who is mentioned in a written order by Tham Kamal
Khan), Aqhon Nuro, and Shah Mohammad with his sons Taimur, Shah, and
Abul Hasan (who all remained in Uyum Nager). Nuro's son Saqi is said to
have later preached Islam in the village of Sumaiyar.
In popular local perception, the historical traditions dealing with Shah
Buria and Shah Wali are sometimes blended with the well-known legend
about a group of six Muslim saints coming from Baltistan via Shigar and
spreading the message of Islam in Nager (allegedly staying seven days
there) and surrounding regions. According to A. H. Dani, Mir Shams ud-
Din Iraqi sent these six missionaries sometime in the first half of the 16th
century.8 The composition of this group may vary: In addition to Shah
Buria and Shah Wali, informants mention Sayyid Sultan Alif Shah, Sayyid
Sultan Wali, Sayyid Shah Sultan Talib, and Saghe Ali. Also Sayyid Dado,
whose small shrine is situated in the Nager-village of Pheker, Sayyid Safdar
Shah, and Saghe Ali's brother Ashur Ali are associated with them. Shah
Buria and Saghe Ali eventually proceeded further to Chitral.
Within the traditions memorized about Shah Buria, it is reported that
the ruler Tham Kamal Khan (whose mother is said to have been an already
converted princess from Baltistan) and his Wazir Uchano Tuchano as well as
"many Nagerkuts" embraced Islam and that the first small mosque (Kamāl
masjid) was built in the fortified main village of Uyum Nager. Of course,
the construction of this first mosque does not imply that Nager was fully
converted. It is rather unlikely that more mosques (masjid) and places of
assembly ( imāmbārha , mãtam-sarã ) existed in Nager at the time of Shah
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72 Jürgen Wasim Frembgen
Wali. Informants are unanimous that also in the course of the 18th century
prayers were still performed on flat stones or on a lawn. Apparently, Shah
Wali was only staying for a relatively short while in Nager (the statements of
informants vary between a couple of months and a few years), before he died
there in the village of Thol, a period too short to supervise the construction
of religious buildings at a time when the pagan religion of the Burusho and
Shina-speaking Dards was still very much alive.
In the present paper, I would like to focus on the hagiography and cult of
Shah Wali in both Nager and Hunza. Special emphasis will be laid on the
oral tradition of the saint's legendary life and wanderings. It is an ideologi-
cally used tradition which is contested by the former arch-enemies of Nager
and Hunza and appropriated by interest groups within Nager. The saint's
miracle-working and the controversy over his dead body throw a particular
light on the hardships of rural life in the high-mountain areas of Northern
Pakistan. The second part of the article deals with the spatial realization of
the saint's legends and contains a documentation of Shah Wali's shrines and
holy places, including notes on the role of the Darbeshkuts, who are their
hereditary guardians. The article will be rounded off by a discussion of the
local devotional practices.
Hagiography
The following version of Shah Wali's migration to Nager and his sojourns
in various villages is based primarily on the narratives of some very knowl-
edgeable persons from the Darbeshkuts, namely Mozahir Husain, Ghulam
Nabi, and Zawar Abdur Rahim. Their ancestor Mohammad Ali was a com-
panion and servant of the saint. Additional information on Shah Wali's life-
history was collected particularly in the villages of Hopar, Uyum Nager,
Ghulmeth, and Thol.
It is said that the holy man grew up in a Sayyid-family in Khorasan. He
had two brothers, the elder one was Sultan Alif Shah (buried in Danyor)
and the younger one Safdar Shah (buried in Gilgit-Amphari). When their
mother died, their father remarried and the stepmother started to mistreat
the children. According to hagiographical tradition, the three boys could
fly - a motif which is characteristic for the local Burusho belief in diwaãkos ,
i.e. men with superhuman qualities or demon-like supernatural beings. In
order to nullify the boys' saintly ability to fly, the evil stepmother mixed
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Sayyid Shah Wali - Missionary and Miracle- worker 73
hen's eggs into their food. As a result, the brothers decided to leave their
home and set out on their journey to the East.
In Ghazni or Kabul (informants are divided on that point), the young
Mohammad Ali joined them as a servant ( khadīm ). The latter's father had
a dream one day before the arrival of the saints, that he should send one of
his three sons (Mohammad Ali, Mohammad Shah, Abdullah) with them. By
casting lots, it was decided that Mohammad Ali should be their attendant.
When the holy men, who had anticipated the encounter, arrived, they ac-
cepted the young man and changed his original name Zewardi to the Shi'a
name Mohammad Ali.
From Kabul the small group moved to Badakhshan and proceeded fur-
ther to Wakhan and into the land of the Kirghiz nomads. On their way,
other male devotees joined the saints and became their servants. In the au-
tobiography of Mir Mohammad Nazim Khan it is mentioned that Shah
Wali came in fact on a pilgrimage from Badakhshan to visit the tomb of
Baba Ghundi near Ishkuk in the valley of Chupursan.9 Qudrat Ullah Beg
adds in his Tārīkh-i cahd-i catîq-i riyâsat-i Hunza ("History of the old way
of rule in the dominion of Hunza") that Shah Wali found the saint's grave
open and therein the corpse of a newborn child. It held a yambú (silver bar)
in his hand and the saint took it into his safe-keeping. He then filled up the
grave.10 Eventually, the group reached the Guhjal-area of the upper Hunza-
valley. There are different views in Nager about the continuation of the
journey: Some are of the opinion that the group went to the Shimshal valley
and from there to Hispar, a remote village belonging to Nager. After cross-
ing a glacier, they came down from Hispar to Uyum Nager. Others narrate
that Shah Wali and his companions first moved to the Ultar mountain range
where they crossed the Ultar glacier. Then they stayed some time in Central
Hunza, where the brothers separated: Sultan Alif Shah and Safdar Shah
went down to Gilgit, whereas Shah Wali went together with Mohammad
Ali and some other khadīms to Uyum Nager. It should be added that the
relationship between the three saints is obviously not necessarily authentic
and more likely constructed, thereby emphasizing a common identity.
At this point we will not pursue the legend as far as the saint's life in
Hunza is concerned, but instead focus on the saint's wanderings in Nager.
Shah Wali is said to have travelled from Hispar via Basho and Biraldo first
to the pasture land of Huro. There were goats and sheep and also some fields
belonging to the Goshotkuts-clan of Hopar. A man named Huko took care
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74 Jürgen Wasim Frembgen
of the saint and his companion and led them to Ghamu -das (also called Bon-
chi), a barren area close to the village of Hopar. Legend has it that in those
days all was topsy-turvy in Hopar: water flooded part of the oasis, landslides
came down, animals grazed in the fields, and the wheat grain was black be-
cause of the mathél disease; there was generally no law and order and all was
harãm (in the sense of "bad" and "forbidden" according to Islam). Basically
the people just had beans (bukâk) to eat and, as a result were constantly fart-
ing and therefore smelled bad. Shah Wali therefore refused to stay in Hopar
any longer; he blew on the corn to stop the disease and then proceeded down
to Uyum Nager-Tokurkhay. My informant Ghulam Mohammad from
Hopar- Goshoshal told me that his forefather Sukuno (in another version a
man from the Goshotkuts named Mamue Puno) hastened to prepare some
bread made of buckwheat. He then followed the holy man to Tokurkhay and
offered the bread to the saint, who was resting seated on a lawn. As a reward,
Shah Wali gave him his wooden stick. - Analysing this part of the legend,
which is well-known in the whole of Nager, we see that oral tradition here
justifies a hierarchical relationship between the powerful "capital" of Uyum
Nager and the "backward" people of Hopar. Nevertheless, the villagers of
Hopar "retaliated" with their episode of the miraculous stick.
Hagiographical oral tradition records that the saint spend about 2-3 days
in Uyum Nager praying in Manal-guts-das, Tokurkhay, and Melukushal.
In order to strengthen the Shi'a faith, he left two khadīms in that village,
who became the ancestors of the Ayubokuts-lineage. Likewise two other
khadīms settled in the next village of Sumaiyar to preach Islam. This is con-
tradicted by the view that he was only accompanied by his faithful servant
Mohammad Ali. After Shah Wali miraculously saved his companion and
himself from rockfall on the steep slope between present-day Shahyar and
Hakuchar (villages which did not exist in those days) he reached Pheker
where the people were just celebrating the sowing festival of Thamo Bo,
mixing barley and gold and dancing enthusiastically. He reprimanded them
and taught them how to say the kalima (the Muslim formula of creed) and
perform the prayers. Before leaving, he blew on the grain to ensure the fertil-
ity of the crops. According to another tradition recorded in the neighbour-
ing village of Dadimal, Shah Wali cursed the "unbelievers" (kãfir) of Pheker
after they had invited him to join their dance. Thereupon many Phekerkuts
died and the village was partly destroyed by a landslide. Walking further
down through Dadimal, the saint reached Pisan where he stayed in a house
inside the old fortified village. The tradition goes that he loved to pray at an
elevated place above the village (behind the present-day imãmbãrha) where
he asked the people to bury him after death. Then he came to Ghulmeth
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Sayyid Shah Wali - Missionary and Miracle- worker 75
where the crops were only growing quite low at that time. Through the
blessings of Shah Wali, they attained their proper height and the people
became prosperous. Finally, he reached the village of Thol, where he set-
tled down. It remains a matter of speculation whether the saint chose this
place because of its still existing pre-Islamic religious structure, a Buddhist
stupa,11 in order to curb local "paganism".12 The Nagerkuts deny that and
point out the tradition that Shah Wali had spent a few months in each village
of Nager when he finally fell ill in Thol.
In the religious memory of the Nagerkuts, there were at that time only
seven houses in the old khan (fortified village) of Thol, all inhabited by the
Shin-clan of the Manisheré. Shah Wali used to live in a small house and was
taken care of by one of the Manisheré-families. He remained unmarried. It
is said, that he did not speak or understand the Burushaski or Shina lan-
guages and therefore could only communicate with a few people in Persian.
The fact that he spoke Persian must be seen in Nager within the context of
a process through which farsi became the court language.13 Persian became
the medium of the elite used in administration, diplomacy, and trade. In ad-
dition, it represents the expression of Shi'a religious-cultural heritage.
Shah Wali impressed the local people through his piety and proceeded
to action by performing miracles. In Thol he used to receive the people: he
prayed for them, wrote amulets, and cured them by reciting verses from
the Qur'an and blowing his barkãt (the local pronouncation of the Arabic
baraka) - "power" - on them. While visiting a village, he used to preach
Islam (i dacwa , lit. "invitation") and to admonish the Nagerkuts to observe
the religious rules and obligations, particularly to say the daily prayers
in the prescribed way. If the people did not follow him, he became angry.
Sometimes he would even curse them, causing trouble and bad luck. This
is another characteristic trait of many saints that they were held in awe and
feared by the people. Thus, people say that Shah Wali eventually placed a
curse on the family which was supposed to take care of him in Thol, because
the Manisheré did not serve him well. He proclaimed that the family would
never have any offspring and this, it is said, became true.
11 Even in the 1920s, the stupa was still an impressive monument, as can be gauged
from photographs (Stein 1907, no. 4 opp. p. 20; Visser/Visser-Hooft 1935, p. 134). The
monument was locally known as moghule chéti and villagers thought that it was used as a
watchtower for hunting.
12 The famous Sufi and founder of the Naqshbandiyya, Baha ud-Din Naqshband, for
example, was buried at a Buddhist centre of pilgrimage called Qasr-i Hindawi - "Hindu
Palace" (cf. Ahmad 1999, p. 126).
10 Frembgen 1986, pp. 574-580.
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76 Jürgen Wasim Frembgen
It is narrated that the saint first appeared at the Ultar glacier called bóyo
sabãran in the high pasture-land of Ultar. Lorimer's informants added that
"... from the Bóyo Shabáran the ice broke away under his horse's hoofs, and that
the blast of wind from the falling ice struck a man who was ploughing in Ultar
and carried him away across the valley." (in Müller- Stellrecht 1979, p. 248)
Then Shah Wali proceeded to Baltit. At that time Tham Silum Khan II was
the ruler of Hunza. The king gave his permission to the saint to settle down
in Shiqaqiants close to the hamlet of Burongoshal.15
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Sayyid Shah Wali - Missionary and Miracle-worker 77
Shah Wali started to preach Islam and helped the people in many ways.
He also worked miracles, so the Hunzukuts held him in great respect. But,
it is told, the Tham soon gave a glad eye to the saints attractive, young wife.
Once, the Hunza ruler threatened Shah Wali and magically produced a heavy
downfall over Shiqaqiants, but the holy man protected himself by simply
drawing a circle around him - a well-known apotropaic gesture. Other in-
formants are of the opinion that the queen insisted on Shah Wali's departure
from Hunza, because she became jealous of the saint's wife. Nevertheless,
the relationship between Tham Silum Khan and Shah Wali, as reflected in
local narrative history, is also a striking example of the age-old conflict over
popularity and authority between ruler and saint, the "sultan of the world"
and the "sultan of the heart".16 Eventually, when Shah Wali learned that the
Tham wanted to murder him,17 he left Hunza and crossed the river to Nager.
My informant Taighun Shah adds that the Nagerkuts welcomed the Shi a
missionary and offered him food and shelter. In return, he prayed for the
fertility of their fields and for their wellbeing. Many Hunzukuts, who had
pleaded with him to stay on, regretted that he had left and continued to
visit him in Nager to pay their respects and to offer him clothing. The saint
prayed on their behalf to ensure that there would be always plenty of sheep
wool in Hunza and thus it came true. Lorimer's text gives another detail
about the inhabitants of Shiqaqiants:
"They say he gave the people there some of his hair, saying: ťBury this there'.
And he had said to them: 'When there have come to be seven Saiyid's graves in
this place Hunza will become very prosperous/ "(Lorimer 1935, pp. 293, 295).
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78 Jürgen Wasim Frembgen
Among the Burusho, miracles are called since Islamization by the standard
Arabic term karãmãt . The miracle stories told about Shah Wali are deeply
embedded in a magical milieu: A particular important one, widely known
in both Nager and Hunza, is either located at the glacier between Hispar
and Uyum Nager or at the Ultar glacier. It is said that the saint and his com-
panions were wandering on the glacier when Mohammad Ali suddenly fell
into a crevasse. The other khadīms cried out for fear, but the saint calmed
them and simply wrote a turnar (amulet), threw it into the same crevasse and
proceeded on his journey. Two days later, the group reached the end of the
glacier and met Mohammad Ali, who had been miraculously saved. He told
them that he had wandered under the glacier as if promenading on a lawn,
with an illuminated path in front of him, guided by the light which radiated
from Shah Wali 's stick. In another version, it was the turnar which showed
him his way under the glacier.
Some informants narrate that when the saint reached the Nager-village of
Hopar, he was confronted with a famous hitan (shaman) who challenged his
authority and claimed to be more powerful than the Muslim holy man. Thus
they entered into a competition: First Shah Wali had to demonstrate his
power. He raised his stick and the shaman stretched his arm into the air. But
as soon as the saint had struck the ground with his stick, the bitân became
paralysed and could no longer move his arm. Only when the latter accepted
Shah Wali's superiority and pleaded for help did the saint pray to God and
finally obtain divine permission to enable the shaman to lower his arm again.
The magician then embraced Islam. Mozahir Husain added that everywhere
in Nager bitãn , pašuú (seer), and jadūgar (practicioners of magic) came to
see Shah Wali and challenged his powers. But in his presence, they became
weak and unable to perform any miracles themselves.
In Manal-guts-das (a hamlet situated on the outskirts of Uyum Nager), in
those days a dangerous place with landslides and hardly any water to irrigate
the land, Shah Wali prayed and water started miraculously to flow under the
earth and to surface at a place where it could be easily distributed by building
canals. One of the Manalokuts living there embraced Islam and was called Ghu-
lam Ali (he later migrated to Pisan where he married a woman from the Shin).
The piety of the saint, who was constantly on the lookout for a suitable
place to say his prayers, where water for ritual cleansing and a flat prayer
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Sayyid Shah Wali - Missionary and Miracle- worker 79
18 Cf. Cacopardo/Cacopardo 2001, p. 143 (on flat stones used for prayer).
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80 Jürgen Wasim Frembgen
In Nager the people say that the saint took a handful of pepples, blew on
them, and threw them in the direction of the rolling rock, which stopped at
once. This story of the miraculous saving of travellers at the steep slope near
Shahyar is, by the way, also attributed to a golden-haired fairy named zighat
apO9 After creating another spring near Bulokot, which is part of Dadimal
situated between the villages of Pheker and Miachar, some informants claim
that Shah Wali performed another miracle in the village of Pisan where he
allegedly pressed a stone in his fist until milk poured out. In Thol it is said
that, in the middle of the winter season, he ordered one of his dervishes to
shake a peach tree and the villagers could enjoy the fruit. This miracle motif
was probably taken over from outside and adapted from dervish stories or
folk tales. For example, a story is told in Anatolia about the famous saint
Haci Bekta§ Veli (13th c.) who miraculously made an apple tree blossom and
bear fruit in the middle of the winter.20
My friend and colleague Ejazullah Beg from Hunza told me the following
story of a karāmāt which Shah Wali is supposed to have performed when he
resided in Thol: Wandering around Nomai, a big village in the lower Hunza-
valley already belonging to Gilgit, the saint met a man from the Hunza-
village of Hindi (nowadays called Nasirabad), who beseeched him for help
because in those days people suffered severely from the shortage of water
for irrigation. The man asked for an amulet which could solve his problems.
Shah Wali eventually gave him a leather bag (méesh) with the instructions
not to open the bag before he reached the place in Hindi where the spring
would arise. On the way back, the man stayed overnight in his sister's home
in Guachi. He ordered his sister to keep the bag in a safe place and not to
open it under any circumstances, because it contained something very pre-
cious. However, when her brother was out, the woman could not control
her curiosity and untied the bag. At that moment, a light grey ptarmigan
(bulā) shot out of the bag like a rocket across the river and hit straight on a
rockface, from where a spring gushed out. To this day, this bulã-bul causes
many dangerous landslides for travellers on the Karakoram Highway near
Jutial. Deeply distressed, the man looked into the bag and saw that only one
feather was left. After his return to Hindi, he opened the bag and the wind
carried the bird's feather towards the mountainside where it created a small
spring, the Phulghu -bul. Its water was mixed with blood and even today it is
not potable. Thus, the moral narrative says it happened, because the people
did not respect the saint's authority and failed to follow his instructions.
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Sayyid Shah Wali - Missionary and Miracle-worker 81
In Qudrat Ullah Beg's version, on the other hand, it is said that Shah
Wali did not fire a second time because he was afraid that the demon would
come out and harm the people.21 Therefore the Hunzukuts should be content
with the water available. Lorimer remarked in his notes: "Up to the present
day there is water from the spring for a big field. At the place he fired from
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82 Jürgen Wasim Frembgen
they have made a small shelter for herdsmen" (in Müller- Stellrecht 1979,
p. 249). My informant Nasimullah Beg (Baltit) added a further detail, men-
tioning the saint's prophecy that more water would gush out if one would fire
at a second tooth. This apparently proved right, when in 1996 a contractor
blew up the rock above the Hyderabad-/?^ and plenty of water came out.
"... he sent a man to Hunza and another to Nager for a shroud. A fine clean
shroud arrived first from Hunza while he was still alive. When later a thin
worn-out, rained-on shroud arrived from Nager, Saiyid Shah Wali made a
double blessing for Hunza, cancelling the original curse he had put on it. Ap-
proving the Hunza shroud, he gave orders, saying: Tut this shroud on me/ and
then died." (in Müller- Stellrecht 1979, p. 249)
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Sayyid Shah Wali - Missionary and Miracle-worker 83
breathe his last. In despair, he left, and approached the Mir of Hunza at Baltit,
who promptly provided a shroud with which the messenger galloped back.
Meanwhile the Mir of Nagar emerged, with a shroud all ready, only to be told
that the messenger had already left. He blamed himself bitterly for his dilatory
behaviour; and, by way of making amends, despatched at once meat, vegeta-
bles, poultry and fruit for a sumptuous funeral feast. The provisions arrived
just at the moment when the shroud came from Baltit; the saint was still alive.
He blessed the Mirs and the people of both states, saying that Hunza should
never lack fine raiment and that Nagar should never lack food." (Rushbrook
Williams 1964, p. 234)
In this respect legends reflect above all aetiological aspects. Shedding light on
the continual conflict and rivalry between Nager and Hunza, the following
Hunza-version is more focused on delimitation and is clearly ethnocentric.
It is said that Shah Wali requested both the people of Nager and of Hunza to
prepare a bier (tabut) for him. The Hunzukuts, diligent and obedient to the
holy man's order, were the first to get the bier ready. Therefore Shah Wali
prayed that their kingdom would always prosper and never be conquered.
However, while addressing the negligent Nagerkuts, he prophesied that if
their state declined, it would never be possible to reconquer it. Qudrat
Ullah Beg, on the other hand, even more expressively takes the stance of
Hunza when he writes that the saint wished to be buried in Shiqaqiants and
therefore only requested the Hunzukuts to bring a shroud.23
As far as his tomb is concerned, the inhabitants of Thol argue that the
saint had specified that he wished to be buried in the middle of a large boul-
der in Thol.24 The villagers asked him how they could actually manage that
with their poor equipment consisting of a few axes and ibex-horns. Shah
Wali just replied that they should recite the basmala- formula (invocation
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84 Jürgen Wasim Frembgen
of God) three times and then wait. They did so after his death and the rock
miraculously split open or, according to another version, burst into many
pieces. Shah Wali was eventually not buried in Thol, but in Ghulmeth, where
subsequently, because of the saint's presence, much more water was flowing
from the Ghulmeth-/?^25 Villagers from Thol claim that in lieu of the dead
body, a huge rock flew from Ghulmeth to the place in their village where
eventually an astáan (holy place) was built. In later times, some women from
Thol and Gushpur-women (i.e. women belonging to the royal family) from
the neighbouring village of Nilt, in fact, saw on Thursdays light emanating
from the rock and moving around. Subsequently, a number of Tholkuts (lit.
"people from Thol") had a dream in which the saint appeared to them and
told that he was staying inside the boulder.
The oral traditions dealing with Shah Wali's death show various "us" vs.
"them" - layers and clearly reflect a powergame over the holy man's barkãt-
filled body between the villages of Thol, Ghulmeth, and Pisan. Eventually,
the numerically more powerful people of Ghulmeth got hold of his mortal
remains and buried him in their village, as mentioned above.26 Such a theft
or abduction of a saints body represents a well-known topic in Muslim
hagiography.27 Repeatedly, the Nagerkuts referred to the weakness of Thol,
where there were allegedly only seven houses at that time. A stronger chal-
lenge was the claim made by the inhabitants of the old neighbouring village
of Pisan. It is said that Shah Wali had promised Tranpha Ghazi (Hashimé)28
from Pisan that he would be buried slightly above that village, because in those
days there were so many ill people who hoped to be cured in the saints pres-
ence. The villagers of Ghulmeth, on the other hand, claimed the holy mans
body in the hope of an effective cure against the wheat-disease ( mathél ).
Returning to the hagiographical legend, the narrative continues, men-
tioning that when the news about Shah Wali's death in Thol spread, Tranpha
Ghazi arrived with his men (mention is made of Ghulam Ali and Mir Ali)
from Pisan. According to the saint's earlier instructions, his body should be
taken first to the house of a man in Thol whose name was Mahmud. There
it should be ritually washed, but the soil beneath under no circumstances
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Sayyid Shah Wali - Missionary and Miracle-worker 85
thrown away. When Shah Wali's body was now washed, a woman from the
Manisheré poured the running off water in an adjacent cowshed. As a re-
sult of this sacrilegious act, disregarding the holy man's wish, the family of
Mahmud and the other Manisheré had no more offspring. An old woman,
originally belonging to the Nagé-lineage, observed in the cowshed that an
intense glowing light was emanating from the ground. She took a little bit
from the moist soil and put it in the corner of her house. From then on, her
family was prosperous.
After the ritual washing, the Pisankuts laid the saint's body on a tabüt
and started to carry it to their village.29 On the way, the Ghulmethkuts
treated them to a good meal and offered them wine.30 Furthermore, the men
of Pisan who were already inebriated were bribed with wheat and their chief,
Tranpha Ghazi, even with gold to leave Shah Wali's body in Ghulmeth. The
latter's inhabitants quickly buried the saint to create a fait accompli. While
walking back to Pisan, Tranpha Ghazi and his small group suddenly heard
in Ya'-parrPl Shah Wali's voice exclaiming "you have bartered me for gold,
here is more of it" and a big gold-nugget fell on the saddle right in front of
the village-headman. In other versions of the moral tale the voice said: "Do
you like me or do you prefer gold?" or "If you want gold, look in your bag!"
and at that moment all the gold turned into charcoal (hanjtl). Now Ghazi
and his companions realized the sacrilege they had committed. They re-
turned to Ghulmeth, but the people there had already expected them and
emplaced their guns (tumák). In the ensuing encounter a number of people
were injured, but, finally, the Pisankuts had to retreat empty-handed to their
village. - On the one hand, it is narrated that until the middle of the 1990s,
Tranpha Ghazi 's family did not increase and therefore visited Shah Wali's
shrine in Ghulmeth every year on a Thursday to plead for forgiveness and
to sacrifice a bull. Only a few years ago, their plea was heard and Ghazi's
family once again has two households. On the other hand, villagers in Pisan
point out that the families of Tranpha Ghazi and his companions Ghulam
Ali and Mir Ali all died out with the exception of one girl who later married
into another family. This motif of a sole survivor is well-known from vari-
ous myths and legends in the Karakoram.
29 The following abbreviated Hunza-version leaves out the role of the Pisankuts and is
therefore not verified by the people of Nager. According to Lorimer's informant "... the
people of Ghulmit learned what had happened and came to carry off Saiyid Shah's body
from the people of Toi. And they did carry it off, for the people of Ghulmit were many and
the people of Toi were few. Overpowering and beating the people of Toi they carried off the
body to Ghulmit, where they buried it and made a tomb" (Lorimer 1935, pp. 295, 297).
30 Cf. Staley 1982, p. 123.
A very steep and dangerous sliding area near the village or Yal.
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86 Jürgen Wasim Frembgen
"Since it (the shrine) has been there, wheat and barley have ripened there; other-
wise, the glacier water came out late in Ghulmet and only millet were cultivated.
It was an unhealthy place; many imbeciles and goitrous persons were born there.
Sickness also has now disappeared." (in Müller- Stellrecht 1979, p. 249)32
"To the Hunza people too, it is said, they did not surrender the body, (though)
some years after Saiyid Shah had died, the people of Hunza had come up in
armed force against Ghulmit." (Lorimer 1935, p. 297)
This is in line with Qudrat Ullah Beg's and Lorimer's notion that the
saint originally wished to be buried in Shiqaqiants. Shah Wali is thought to
have said:
"Let my shrine be here, and if there are the shrines of seven saiyid with me here,
there will be no scarcity of water in Hunza any longer." (Müller- Stellrecht
1979, p. 249)
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Sayyid Shah Wali - Missionary and Miracle- worker 87
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88 Jürgen Wasim Frembgen
The Nagerkuts seek Shah Wali's intercession for a number of reasons, but
particularly to ensure fertility. Being a powerful auxiliary saint and media-
tor to God, many women visit the astãan to pray for the birth of a son. An
exemplary case was reported by Ghulam Nabi: In 1971 one of his female
relatives, who lived in Sumaiyar, was still childless and at a loss, because
neither the use of amulets nor the consultation of medical practitioners
proved successful. She then decided to stay for five days with Ghulam
Nabi 's family in Ghulmeth in order to submit her supplication every day to
Shah Wali. Ghulam Nabi had to return to Karachi for work, but when he
finally returned to Nager after five years to settle permanently in Ghulmeth,
he learned that his relative had given birth to five children (three boys and
two daughters). Ghulam Nabi added that the woman complained about her
physical weakness, because every year she had to bear a child. Therefore she
requested the saint to prevent her from becoming pregnant and Shah Wali
eventually granted her wish. In this short narrative the obvious use of the
five as an auspicious number in any Shi'a context already reveals a legendary
trait. Another tale from Ghulmeth also underlines the important quest for
male offspring: About 20 years ago, Raja Nizam ud-Din (Moghlotkuts), who
lives close to the shrine, saw in a dream a nurãni bozorg (a saint with radiat-
ing light) praying in the courtyard of the astãan . Most probably it was Shah
Wali himself. The holy man addressed the Raja and said: "Tell your neigh-
bour Tranpha Mast Ali he should just pray and donate a phiróoza-buróndo
(finger-ring with a turquoise) to the shrine." A few days before, the Raja had
jokingly promised the Tranpha that he would help him to get a son. He in-
formed his neighbour about the dream and left it to his discretion to believe
or not to believe the divine message. Mast Ali followed the bozorg's orders
and after two months a son was born to him (today he has even four sons).
Shah Wali is said to help in many different ways: In case of a land dis-
pute, both opponents went to the astãan and swore on the Qur'an that they
had uttered the truth. Salt was sprinkled on the pages which both men had
to lick up. Usually the one who was wrong was expected to be struck by
misfortune or even die within a couple of days. This sort of oath-taking at
shrines used to be very common in both Nager and Hunza. Today jobless
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Sayyid Shah Wali - Missionary and Miracle-worker 89
men pray to the saint to find a suitable position. Furthermore, the holy man
had the divine powers to cure diseases. People in Ghulmeth say that once
a mother prayed at the astãan for the cure of her sick daughter, who had a
stiff arm. In a flash, her ring was removed from her finger and set itself on
the tomb. Her daughter could soon move her arm again. Another story told
about Zawar Rajab from Ghulmeth (who originally belonged to Dadimal)
highlights the saint's quality as a protector: In the 1960s, Rajab had a dream
in which he met a nurãni bozorg with his khadīm (apparently Shah Wali
with Mohammad Ali, as my informant concluded), who were on their way
to the Rakaposhi glacier. He asked them in the customary way where they
were going and what they intended to do. They replied: "We are ascending,
because there will be a great misfortune, and we are going to avert it." The
next day a big avalanche occurred, but miraculously no one died, and only
trees and fields were devastated.
In order to remind Shah Wali of a wish and to emphasize its binding effect,
devotees fix calams (standard consisting of a small stick with a piece of cloth
attached) or padlocks on the doorhandles of the shrine (formerly a chain). A
wish is usually combined with a vow. Thus pilgrims whose wishes have been
granted (which is expressed in Burushaski as murãd puró maními or hajãt
qabül maními ), offer wheat-flour, clarified butter ( maltãsh/ghl % and nowa-
days often money. These donations are taken by the guardians of the astãan .
Depending on the character of the wish, some believers also vow to slaughter
a goat or sheep and to prepare special bread with butter (pushóoro , also pro-
nounced zspirishoro) to be distributed among the poor.36 Cases are known of
an offering being rejected by the saint. Not surprisingly, such stories are told
particularly about devotees from Hunza (for example when ghī was miracu-
lously separated in lumps and scattered around). Other pious people vow to
circumambulate the astãan three times within the enclosure on a Thursday
evening while praying the fãtiha and a duã (personal petitive prayer).37
36 A particular expression for such an offering is qhudéi. In connection with Shah Wa-
ll's shrine it is said that once in the early 1940s, a big sheep was missing, which belonged to
Raja Muzafar ud-Din Shah (Moghlotkuts), the Jagirdar of Ghulmeth. The servants looked
for it and found it sleeping in the saint's courtyard, remarkably with its head turned to-
wards the qibla (i.e. towards Mecca). This was considered very auspicious because, fol-
lowing the model of Abraham's sacrifice, every animal in Islam is slaughtered with its
head turned in the direction of Mecca. The Raja ordered to sacrifice the sheep as qhudéi
and to distribute the meat to all the villagers. On the next day the message arrived that
Muzafar ud-Din Shah was appointed as "Raja" (here in the sense of governor) of Chilas.
37 It must be emphasized that no religious festivities or celebrations are held on behalf
of Shah Wali, such as commemorating his death, etc. The devotion displayed here defi-
nitely lacks the fervent character such as is found for instance in Punjab and other parts of
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90 Jürgen Wasim Frembgen
A way to obtain Shah Wali's blessings is to touch the piqmdr stone lying
in the main courtyard close to the entrance.38 Thi spiqmdr shows the saint's
footprint and was found many years ago lying in the das (desert-like land)
between the Ghulmeth-^/?^« and the small adjacent village of Masot. When,
in 1994, the respective plot was divided among the sons of the owner, the
stone was eventually brought to the astáan . The pilgrims also drink the
rainwater which collects in the deepening of Shah Wali's footprint. The
water, which is "loaded" with his barkãt , is taken with a spoon. On special
request, the mujãwer (guardian) on duty distributes sacred earth from the
tomb, particularly to pregnant women and sick children. He may also pre-
pare amulets. In the evenings, a man from the Darbeshkuts (the hereditary
guardians of the shrine) blows into a yakhorn to announce the lighting of
the oil lamps, whose residues are taken as substances containg barkãt by
devotees. Later the mujãwer on duty closes the doors of the shrine. It is told
that sometimes in the morning the doors are wide open, which confirms
Shah Wali's presence.
South Asia. This may also be due to the renewed Shia faith and the preachings of the local
Ulama (religious scholars).
38 hpiqmàr is usually considered to be a sacred stone or rock showing the imprints of
the feet or hands of a saint; frequently people see light emanating from them (cf. Müller-
Stellrecht 1979, pp. 243-244). In some cases, for instance in the Nager-village of
Askurdas, a mosque is built over a piqmár. The prayer-stone from Chinishi near Uyum
Nager, already mentioned above in the context of Shah Wali's miracle to create a spring for
his ablutions, is also considered as a piqmâr where people go to pray for the birth of a son.
Occasionally people visit such a holy place, distribute lumps of butter (puskóoro) among
children and pray for the betterment of weather. This indigenous custom, which is known
as piqmàre pushóoro, is still observed in Chinishi.
39 To to my knowledge, there are no Darbeshkuts living in other villages oí Nager;
only in the time of Mir Sikandar Khan (1905-1940) a certain Darbesh Chiltani migrated
from Ghulmeth to the remote village of Bar and died there without leaving any offspring.
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Sayyid Shah Wali - Missionary and Miracle- worker 91
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92 Jürgen Wasim Frembgen
The following chapter deals with the wider "sacred geography" of Nager as
far as it is related to Shah Wali, whereby emphasis will be given to magical
items and commemorative structures.
Shah Wali's wooden stick ( iphágu )> which the saint had presented to the
ancestor of the Mamukuts (lineage of the Goshotkuts) in Hopar, became
a particular object of devotion. It is said that when Mamue Puno touched
the iphágu, it immediately turned into a gun (tumák). No one was able to
shoot with that gun and everyone who kept it at his house went mad. Only
for a single family of the Goshotkuts did the "stick-gun" become an object
containing barkát . Today it belongs to a man named Asmano.
In order to obtain the barkat of the saint's miraculously transformed
stick, women and men stroke the barrel of the gun three times with their
hands beginning at the upper part and then down to the muzzle, thereby
uttering a duã. Each year the women in Asmano's family make a new gun-
case (yuúlgiš) out of cloth, which receives the sacred object's barkat. The
previous one is cut into small pieces which serve as amulets. It is said that
the iphdgu ("stick-gun") helps in all areas of life. Eventually it was also suc-
cessfully used in peacemaking. Allegedly, during the famous Hunza-Nager
campaign of December 1891 it was carried down to Nilt. At the moment
it arrived, the battle ended. More recently, in 1988 during the Sunni-Shi'a
encounters in the vicinity of Gilgit, the situation became critical and dan-
gerous for the Shi 'as and people from Chalt requested the Goshotkuts from
Hopar to bring Shah Wali's iphágu . First they went down to Ghulmeth
where they circumambulated (tawãf) the saint's shrine three times. Then
they proceeded further down the valley; when they finally reached the vil-
lage of Danyor, the battle had just finished.
In addition to such objectified sacred power, there is the well-known idea
in popular Sufism that a place where a saint once stayed for some time (gen-
erally known as maqãm) is thought to be impregnated by his superhuman
power. Thus, for example, Bonchi as well as Sinekar (near Huro) are places
where Shah Wali is said to have rested before going to Hopar. At both places
the people occasionally eat some of the green leaves of a variety of artemisia
called món . It is a grey- coloured, fragrant plant whose branches are used
as firewood. People say that only the món growing in those places has the
medical properties to cure the worm disease. They add that one must pull
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Sayyid Shah Wali - Missionary and Miracle-worker 93
down the leaves starting from the top (the same gesture as with stroking
Shah Wali's "stick-gun"); only then the patient will emit the worms. But,
parallel to the related physical movements of the body, an inversed striping
of the leaves from down to top would make the man vomit.
In Uyum Nager-Melukushal, where Shah Wali performed his most fa-
mous miracle, there is an astãan commemorating the place of his prayer.
The small sanctuary, officially named Sayyid Shāh Wall qadam gāĶ is built
around the saint's prayer-stone on which nobody is allowed to step. Within
the enclosure there is a place for prayer (for men only), flags (calam) con-
nected with personal wishes, oil lamps, and a box for donations. The local
mujãwer is paid from the little money deposited in the box. Many people re-
port that they see lights at the astãan in the month of Ramazan. Similar to the
devotion displayed at the main shrine in Ghulmeth, the pious come to pray
in cases of illness and to seek the saint's help in bestowing children. Thus,
for example, the wife of Raja Mohammad Ali Khan (father of Mir Shaukat
Khan, the last ruler of Nager) had several miscarriages and often came to the
astãan for duā and to make a vow. Then, after some time, Mir Shaukat Ali
Khan, was born. Once, it is said, a man died beside Shah Wali's prayer stone.
He had entered the shrine in an impure state without performing the ablu-
tions prescibed after sexual intercourse. After that, the villagers put a second
slab of stone on top of the original prayer-stone. Moreover, horses which are
sick and cannot pass urine are led five times around the shrine.42
The Melukushal-^«/ or tok-bul , which is thought to have been created by
the saint and is therefore also called Sayyid Shah -bul, is situated only a few
steps away from the astãan up on the mountain slope. Immediately below
there is an hammām (bath), where also clothes can be washed, as well as the
Melukushal -masjid. It is said that if someone pushed a stick into the spring,
it would vanish in the water and the person would be thrown back by a mi-
raculous power. Furthermore, an amazing feature of the spring is that its
water level remains the same in summer and winter; in addition, in winter
the water is rather warm. The bul has long been used for magically changing
the weather by producing or stopping rain: If there is a draught or if there is
too much rain, the villagers of Uyum Nager pray for the fulfilment of their
wish and bring qhamãli and burúm hãnik (bread, butter, fruit), which are
distributed among the poor. According to the rules of purity and pollution,
a woman during menstruation is not allowed to drink from the pure water,
otherwise she will become sick. The spring as well as the astãan are visited
predominantly by the inhabitants of Nager's "capital village" Uyum Nager,
but sometimes people from other villages also come to these holy places.
42 Frembgen 1984, p. 224.
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Sayyid Shah Wali - Missionary and Miracle-worker 95
like in Thol. In any case the villagers built a small wooden astãan on the flat
boulder. During the battle of Nilt in December 1891 when Nager was finally
subjugated by the invading British forces, this shrine was reportedly strongly
fortified and defended by the local warriors.43 During construction of the
Karakoram Highway in 1966, a Punjabi engineer called Shahji was camping
near the village. He saw a light moving around at the rock and realized the
presence of a holy man. Together with the people of Thol he renovated the
shrine. It is now a small round structure with a blue cupola. Inside the build-
ing, some popular Shi'a poster prints are fixed on the wall. A mujãwer be-
longing to the Dóoré (Shin-kinship group) is responsible for the holy place.
Not far away from the rock shrine, at the site of the former, now deserted
khan , the residence of the saint called Sayyid Shah Wali -ha (Bur.) or -got
(Sh.) is still preserved. It is a small, cubic-shaped, single-room house with a
box-like construction on the roof sheltering the hole in the roof which lights
the interior. The empty room is decorated only with some devotional paint-
ings and oil lamps in the southwestern corner directed to Mecca. Shah Wali's
residence is thought to be impregnated with his barkãt. The local people say
that once in later times the roof of the house had to be repaired, when sud-
denly a tool slipped away from the hands of the craftsman working there and
fell on the floor. Miraculously the tool flew up and returned to the carpenter.
An old woman, whom I met at the house, remembered the story of her father-
in-law who once passed the khan at night. He saw several jinn (ghosts) and
became terribly frightened. But when he looked to Shah Wali's house, the
saint just came out, climbed on the roof, and sat down there. At once, the
man's fear vanished and he returned home without seeing any mor z jinn.
Shiqaqiants, the place where Shah Wali stayed for some time according to
the Hunza-tradition, is now called Astana and forms part of the village of
Burongoshal. As the place name indicates, there is a small astãan thought
to contain some of the saint s relics. Qudrat Ullah Beg reports that the
people of Hunza managed to bring some hair, a piece of the shroud as well as
a little bit āh-e ghusl (water from the ritual washing of the saint's corpse) and
kept it in the shrine.44 The Hunzukuts come for pilgrimage, pray for the ful-
filment of their wishes, and make vows. Every evening oil lamps are lighted at
the astãan . Next to it is a rock where Shah Wali is said to have performed his
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96 Jürgen Wasim Frembgen
prayers. In later times different people saw the saint praying at that place in
their dreams. Today it is marked by a partly painted enclosure. Beside there
is the Astana-p¿án, a reservoir which gets its water from the Phurue-¿W, the
spring created by the holy man. Its water is said to be especially pure.
Until a few years ago, the spear or lance (naiza) of Shah Wali was kept in
the oldest mosque of the fortified village (Gul -khan) of Aliabad.45 Qudrat
Ullah Beg calls it the Shah Mardan mosque, while other people in Aliabad
call it the Aqhon Fazil -masjid. The historical building was unfortunately
dismantled in the 1990s. In Lorimer's text it is mentioned that a man by
the name of Choro Nur Shah stole the spear from Shah Wali's tomb in
Ghulmeth and brought it to Hunza.46 In minor legal cases the saint's spear
was used for oath-taking. The suspect thereby had to grasp the naiza with
his right hand or with both hands (in more serious cases oaths were taken
on the Qur'an). Incidentally, spears or lances are characteristic attributes of
wandering dervishes particularly in the lands of Eastern Islam.47
Further down the valley, there are two more shrines on the Hunza side
(Lower Hunza), dedicated to Sayyid Shah Wali. Both astaan date from a com-
paratively later period and are situated roughly opposite the main shrine of
Ghulmeth. Both were constructed after the villagers obtained some sacred
earth and dust from the actual tomb and emptied the bag filled with it at a
suitable place near their villages. It is specified in Lorimer's notes that this
sacred earth was allegedly earth "... on which water had fallen when they
washed the body of Saiyid Shah Wali" (in Müller- Stellrecht 1979, p. 250).
I was told that the older astaan in Maiyun had been consecrated in the time
of Tham Shah Ghazanfar (d. 1863). The villagers carried the sacred earth to
a grove at the beginning of the Maiyun -nullah and put it near a fig tree. Then
they protected it by means of a stone enclosure (with a wooden door). Every
year, after the first ploughing of their fields around the middle of February,
the Maiyunkuts celebrate an astáane qhudéi , i.e. a festival day at the shrine
commemorating the saint to which each family contributes and brings some
meat of huyes (goats and sheep), burúm hánik , and sherbat (fruit drink). First
the people eat at the astãan , then they pray th efātiha and invoke the saint.
45 According to Qudrat Ullah Beg, it could also have been the saint's walking stick
(1973, p. 128). Other informants in Hunza disagree with the association of that relic (naiza
or stick) to Shah Wali and claim that it originally belonged to Sayyid Shah Talib from
Husaini in Guhjal.
46 Lorimer 1935, p. 297.
47 My informant Taighun Shah from Aliabad added that in Eastern Turkestan a camel
usually used to be killed with such a naiza in a ritually prescribed way whereby the camel
had to kneel down before it was stabbed three times in the heart.
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Sayyid Shah Wali - Missionary and Miracle-worker 97
Conclusion
Sayyid Shah Wali is the local patron-saint of Nager, a historical and partly
legendary figure connected with the Islamization of the North-West Kara-
koram. He arrived at a time when indigenous pre-Islamic religious practices
were still observed under nominal allegiance to Shi'a Islam. Shah Wali is
portrayed as a saint of the common people. His dealings with the royal
courts of Nager and Hunza were either cursory or even overshadowed by
tensions.49 The saint, whose spiritual dominion ( wilãyat ) extends from the
remote village of Hispar (Nager) down to the large settlement of Nomal
(belonging to the Gilgit-District), occupies an important place in the col-
lective memory of the mountain people living there. As Nager and Hunza
are primarily oral cultures, social and religious memory articulates itself in
oral narrative history. Particularly in Nager, orality has generated a sub-
stantial narrative about Shah Wali, whereby his holy places also serve as
mnemonic cues for recalling the past. It consists mainly of hagiographical
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98 Jürgen Wasim Frembgen
tales and notes, sometimes with an anecdotal character, but usually reflect-
ing geographical precision and realistic details. First, they deal with the life
and wanderings of the saint, whereby probably a part of this oral source
material could be considered quasi-historical. But it has to be emphasized
that not only the claim of his Sayyid-origin, but also his association to the
Shia heartland of Iran and his journey from Khorasan farther to the east is
perhaps an imagined one contributing to the saint's charisma.50 Secondly,
the narratives concerning his miracles and deeds as well as the events sur-
rounding his death are basically legendary.
As far as Shah Wali's hagiography is concerned, there is no "official" ver-
sion, but, instead, there are different versions and variants describing the
holy man's life. The respective social groups in Nager and Hunza have dif-
ferent memories passed on from one generation to the next (as a rule trans-
ferred from the elder members to the younger). Depending on who is telling
a story, the narrator will link it to his own family, kinship group, village or
larger community (i.e. to the Twelver Shi'as of Nager or to the predomi-
nantly Ismaili population of Hunza) and shape it accordingly. Thus, the
hagiographical tradition serves particular purposes and is appropriated and
transformed by different groups and thereby also contested, which sheds
light on their respective motives and interests corresponding to the principle
of "us" vs. "them". Clear differences are, for instance, revealed in the Nager
and Hunza versions: the Nagerkuts claim the saint solely for themselves,
whereas the Hunzukuts stand firm on their share of the tradition and claim
a higher morality. The quest for barkãt- containing relics reveals inner strife
and competition between the Nager-villages of Pisan, Ghulmeth, and Thol.
Finally, narratives told by the Darbeshkuts reflect difficulties of acceptance
in Nager. As descendants of an itinerant dervish who immigrated from out-
side, a low-status role has been ascribed to them which they try to overcome
through their representation in narrative history.
Shah Wali's hagiography contains on the one hand a number of motifs well-
known from other Muslim saints: Thus, the competition with the shaman
from Hopar has its equivalent in the contests among Muslim saints and be-
tween them and local magicians (for example of Hindu faith). A well-known
topic of Muslim hagiography is the story of Moses (Musa) who had to face
seventy magical experts from Egypt. Similarly to this case of "competitive
spirituality", the miraculous creation of springs by striking a rock with the
saint's walking stick is known throughout the Muslim world. One particular
miracle-story dealing with a spring and a ptarmigan focuses on moral truth.
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Sayyid Shah Wali - Missionary and Miracle-worker 99
The elaborate narratives about Shah Walis death and burial eventually refer
to the motif of the translatio, which is found in many religions: A dead saint
is transported to another place in order to establish a shrine. Like in Nager,
it can be combined with the theft or abduction of the dead body. The light,
which people see at night at shrines and holy places, indicates the mysticism
of the light as it is particularly expressed in Iranian Sufi thinking, but it is
also widespread on the level of folk religion, for instance, in the Punjab and
in Afghanistan. In Sufi treatises and in legends known across the Muslim
world, the divine light is said to have been radiantly shining forth from the
forehead of the Prophet Muhammad.51 The famous "verse of the light" in the
Qur'an (24/35) is seen by some mystics as a reference to this nur Muhammad
("light of Muhammad"). The divine light of heaven, the nūr ilāhī , is also con-
nected with the saints whose souls are thought to consist of drops of light.52
The saints turban, which is venerated in a small shrine in the village of Yal,
is generally a sign of spiritual perfection and succession. Finally, the motif of
the desire for the beautiful wife of a sage (as reflected in the attitude of the
king of Hunza towards Shah Wali s wife), is known from South Asia.
On the other hand, in the main body of legends about Shah Wali, a
number of traits are characteristic of the local culture of the Burusho and
Shina-speaking Dards: In the peculiar miracle-stories with their exalted
atmosphere and their strong magical elements, the numinous is often expe-
rienced in stones, mostly huge rocks, which fly around and open and close
themselves. They are related to ancient local beliefs and practices connected
with piqmãr stones. A similarly strong relationship between saints and
stones, reflecting an overlying and intermixing of Islam with pre-existing
traditions, can be found in the Maghrib.53 Furthermore, certain non-Islamic
superhuman beings, like phut, are still thought to inhabit boulders. The
transformation of the saints wife into a pigeon as well as the story of the
rocket-like ptarmigan, causing the eruption of a spring, can be considered
as specific local forms of miracle-working.
Moreover, we might ask what dimensions are reflected in the present
hagiography: Within the pragmatic folk religion of Nager and Hunza, Shah
Wali emerges as a powerful auxiliary saint who helps in various realms. In
the domain of nature he protects man from landslides, rockfall, and ava-
lanches as well as from the dangers of falling into the crevasses of a glacier.
He is concerned with the requirements of agriculture, creating springs and
thereby ensuring the fertility of the soil; water for irrigation is a pressing
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100 Jürgen Wasim Frembgen
problem of existence, water and life are therefore intricately linked. In addi-
tion, he is concerned with eradicating the wheat disease and bestowing grain
and milk. In human life the saint acts as an intercessor who ensures the birth
of children (preferably sons) and cures diseases. Although granting basically
help of any kind, Shah Wali is predominantly a bestower of fertility. As so
often in the case of Muslim saints, his power is experienced as ambivalent:
As long as his devotees are obedient and venerate him in the proper way, the
holy man is benevolent and rewarding, but fear and punishment are certain
for those who do not follow his commands.
Acknowledgements
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Sayyid Shah Wali - Missionary and Miracle-worker 101
ud-Din (Gilgit and Ghulmeth) and his brothers Raja Nizam ud-Din, Raja
Hisam ud-Din, and Raja Muin ud-Din (all from Ghulmeth) as well as Eja-
zullah Beg (Curator of the Baltit-Fort Museum/Hunza). I also want to
express my sincere thanks to a number of learned people from Nager and
Hunza for sharing their knowledge about Shah Wali with me: besides the al-
ready mentioned Mozahir Husain, Ghulam Nabi, and Zawar Abdur Rahim
(all from Ghulmeth), I would like to name the late Raja Karim Khan (Gilgit
and Thol), the late Shaikh Ahmad Faizi (Askurdas), Ghulam Mohammad
(Hopar-Goshoshal), Taighun Shah (Aliabad), and Hayat Khan (Maiyun).
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Sayyid Shah Wali - Missionary and Miracle-worker 1 03
Fig. 1: The main shrine in Ghulmeth after renovation (Sept. 1995/J. W. Frembgen)
Fig. 2: Shah Wali 's shrine in the village of Thol (Nov. 1997/J. W. Frembgen)
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104 Jürgen Wasim Frembgen
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