2018

Introduction to
knitting and garment
technology
Short Notes
“Once you replace negative thought
with positive ones, you’ll start having
positive results”.

RAM
Abhishek kumar kushwaha
10/2/2018
INTRODUCTION TO KNITTING AND
GARMENT TECHNOLOGY
(COMMON TO TEXTILE CHEMISTRY)

DETAILED CONTENTS
1. KNITTTING :

Introduction and general terms of kniting, Difference in

woven and knitted fabries, properties-knit Vs woven. Warp
and weft kintting-mechanism and comparison.

2. LOOP FORMATION WITH NEEDLE :

Running position, clearing position, Feeding position,

Knocking over positions, Knitting position.

3. KNITTING NEEDLES :

Beard, Latch, Compound type of knitting needles, Advantages

and disadvantages of beard and latch type.

4. STITCHES :

Knit, tuck and floats and its comparison.

5. TYPES OF LOOPS :

Types of loops, Classification of weft knitted fabrics -

single knit (single jersey), Double knit (double jersey),
Factors responusible for production is weft knitting
machine.

6. GARMENT CLASSIFICATION :

Garment classification for men and woven. Fibrie selection

for garment and properties. Measurement and its importance,
Process Flow Chart of Knitting Technology

Knitting is one kind of fabric manufacturing process in which

fabric is produced by inter looping among loops formed by single
or several yarn feeding simultaneously. Knitted fabrics produced
with stitch formation.
Stitch is most important structural element of knitted fabrics .The
stitch consists of a head ,two legs ,two feet and upper& lower
connection point.
Or

Knitting is the process of manufacturing a fabric by the

intermeshing of loops of yarns.
Or
Knitting is a cloth manufacturing process in which needle are used
to form a series of inter locking loop from one or more yarn.
Types of knitting
 Warp knitting
 Weft knitting

Course:- A row of loops in horizontal direction is called a

course.

Wale:- A column of loops in vertical direction is called a wale.

Stitch density:- It is the number of loops per unit area
which can be obtained course per unit length. Stitch density of
knitted fabrics is generally expressed as the number of loops per
square inch or per square cm.

Stitch density= CPI × WPI

Unit:- Per Square Inch

Knitting needle:- Needle is the principal element of any

knitting system, which can be defined as an instrument used for
intermeshing the knitting loops.

There are three type of knitting needle

i. Beard Needle
ii. Latch Needle
iii. Compound Needle
 Classification of weft knitting machine
Weft knitting machine

Latch needle Sprig Beard Needle

Flat Circular Fully Circular

Knitting knitting fashioned

Opposite Opposite Single Cylinder & Double

Flat Beds V Beds cylinder Dial Cylinder

Single Multi Jacquard Rib Interlock

Track Track

Jacquard Non Jacquard Jacquard Non Jacquard

Mini Full Mini Full

Jacquard Jacquard Jacquard Jacquard

 Classification of warp knitting machine
Warp knitting machine

Latch needle Beard Needle

Type Type

Single needle Double needle

Bar type Bar type

Standard Raschel Circular

Slide Guide General Lace Power Net

Bar Bar Purpose

Classification Of Weft Knitted Fabric

Weft Knitted Fabric

Single Jersey Double Jersey

Purl Rib Interlock

 Classification Of Weft Knitted Fabric
Warp Knitted Fabric

Tricot fabric Raschel fabric

Tricot Satin Burshed

Jersey Jersey Tricot

Compound needle:
The compound needle used today in the construction of Tricot
machines. The needle is made of two separate parts; the main part
of the needle, which includes stem, butt and hook, and the closing
element which operates with a sliding up-and-down movement in a
groove, cut into the stem of the main part of the needle. The
needles are set in tricks cut in the needle bed of the machine, while
the closing elements, being cast in units half an inch long, are set in
a separate bar. The casting of the closing elements is required to
ensure perfectly accurate spacing between them.
Latch Needle:
The needle which have a right hook and easily around the axis is
called latch needle. Pierre Jeandeau patented the first latch needle
(also known as the tumbler needle) in 1806 but there is no evidence
of its practical use.There is also no evidence that the pivoting of a
broken pocket knife blade led to the development of the latch
spoon.

Fig: Latch needle

Spring Bearded Needle:
The flexible hooked loop holder which is capable of enclosing the
newly formed loop in order to draw it through the previously
formed is called bearded needle. As mentioned previously, the
bearded or spring needle was the first type of needle to be
produced. It is the cheapest and simplest type to manufacture as it
is made from a single piece of metal, in machine gauges as fine as
60 needles per inch, with the needles being pliered to ensure
accurate needle spacing.

Fig: Spring bearded needle

The bearded needle is made up of five parts namely (1) shank, (2) stem, (3)
hook, (4) beard and (5) eye.
Difference between weaving and knitting
Parameter Weaving Knitting
Elasticity Very less High
Dimenstional Good Poor
Stability
Durability More Durable Less Durable
Moisture Less More
absorption
Air permeability Low High
Production Cost Higher Lower
Flexibility Less More
Shrinkage Less High
Production Speed Less High
Porosity Less High

Sinker
Sinkers are thin metallic strips made of pressed steel sheets to various
shapes and sizes. A typical sinker employed on a circular weft knitting
machine is shown in Fig..
 Fig: Sinker

Such a sinker is made up of a butt (1), nib (2), throat (3) and belly
(4). It is held upright in its operational
state by being made to slide in a groove milled on the surface of an
annular ring while an extension of this very ring acts as an wedge that
fits the lower cavity of the sinker preventing its sideway movement.
This ring is mounted on the top of a cylinder. Thus the outer surface
of a knitting cylinder house knitting needles, the hooks and butts of
which radiate outwards while the top of the cylinder carries a ring
supporting upright strips of sinkers which operate along the gaps
between needles.

The butt of a sinker is lodged in a groove of a cam and a relative

motion between the two results in a to and fro motion of the sinker.
Thus, each needle is neighbored by a sinker and they move at right
angles to each other.
The nib, throat and the belly of a sinker exercise specific control on
the sinker loop during the formation of a new loop as also during
the withdrawal of a knitted fabric from the zone of fabric formation.
Merits and demerits of Latch, Beard and
Compound Needle
Types of Needle Merits Demerits
Latch  Self acting and  Complicated
comes in one construction
piece. and prone to
 Higher speed of damage.
production than  Thick and not
bearded needle amenable to
loops of small
length.
Beard  Can be very thin  Low machine
and hence speed.
suitable for high  Needs an
machine gauge additional
and very small Presser bar.
loop length.
 Uncomplicated
construction and
hence simple
production
process and long
life.
Compound  Highest speed of  Needs two cam
production. tracks, one for
 Very robust and the needle and
not prone to easy another for the
damage. tongue (jack).
 The groove in
needle body is a
very sensitive
element.
Basic Parts of a Sewing Machine and Their
Functions:
The basic structure of sewing machine is the same whether it is
hand-operated sewing, treadle sewing machine or electric
sewing machine. The basic parts of a sewing are listed below and
seen in Fig.

1. Spool pin: It is fitted on top of the arm to hold the reel.

2. Thread guide: It holds the thread in position from the spool
to the needle.

3. Tension disc: The two concave discs put together with the
convex sides facing each other. The thread passes between the two.
The tension of the thread is adjusted by a spring and nut
whichincreases or decreases pressure

4. Take up lever: It is a lever fitted to the body of the arm. Its

up and down motion feeds the thread to the needle and tightens
the loop formed by the shuttle.
5. Needle bar: This is a steel rod to hold the needle at one
end with the help of a clamp. Its main function is to give motion
to the needle.

6. Bobbin case: This moves into position to catch the top

thread and form the stitch as the needle is lowered into the
bobbin chamber.

7. Presser foot: It is fixed to the presser bar to hold the cloth

firmly in position when lowered.

8. Presser foot lifter: A lever attached to the presser bar for

raising and lowering the presser foot.

9. Stitch regulator: This controls the length of the stitch.

10. Bobbin winder: A simple mechanism used for winding
thread on the bobbin.

11. Fly Wheel: When this is made to revolve, it works the

mechanism of the motion

12. Clutch or Thumb Screw: This is in the center of the fly

wheel and it engages and disengages the stitching mechanism.

13. Slide Plate: A rectangular plate, which facilitates the

removal of the bobbin case without lifting the machine.

14. Needle Plate or Throat Plate: A semi-circular disc with a

hole to allow the needle to pass through it.
15. Feed dog: This consists of a set of teeth fitted below the
needle plate. It helps to move the cloth forward while sewing.
Loop Formation in Knitting
The sequence of loop formation is shown in Figure. When the
needle moves up, the old loop forces the latch to open. When
The old loop rests on the latch, the position is called ‘tuck’ position
(1 in Figure) Then the needle moves up further and the old loop
slides down the latch and rest on the stem of the needle. This is
called the ‘clearing’ position (2 in Figure) The needle attains its
highest position at 3 in FigureThen the needle starts to descend and
the hook catches the yarn. As the needle continues to descend, the
yarn bends in the form of a loop (U shape). The old loop now helps
to close the latch by pushing it in upward direction so that newly
formed loop is caught between the hook and latch (4 in Figure ) The
needle continues to descend and new loop is ‘cast on’ (5 in Figure)
and finally ‘knocked over’ (6 in Figure) through the old one. Casting
off or knocking over is the same phenomena, executed in two
different manners. For casting-off to take place special knitting
elements bodily push the old loop out while in case of knocking
over, help of sinkers or verges is necessary to prevent the old loop
from moving down with the needle.
Types of collars:-
Basically there are just 3 types of collars – the stand collar, flat
collar and the roll collar. The names are self explanatory enough

Stand collar fits around the neck. It is basically a band which

stands upright on the neck.
Roll collar is a stand collar which is then folded or rolled over
Flat collar is found flat on the shoulders.

All the others are variations of these basic styles.

 Button down collar

 Straight band collar
 Shawl collar
 Mandarin collar / Nehru collar / Mao collar / Cadet Collar
 Polo/ roll/ turtle collar
 Peter pan collar
 Shaped shawl collar
 Ring collar
 Bateau collar
 Rounded wing tipped collar
 Butterfly collar
 Dog ear Collar
 Cossack collar
 Bishop collar
 Tab collar
 Button down collar
 Revers collar
 Fish mouth revers
 Clover revers
 L revers collar
 Tuxedo collar
 Giraffe collar
 Danton collar
 Napoleon high coat collar
 Sailor collar
 Puritan collar / Pilgrim Collar
 Modesty Collar
 Round bertha collar
 Dutch collar
 Poerrot collar
 Ruff collar
 Frilled Stand collar
 Stand Collar with a knot
 Van dyke collar
 Bertha collar Square
 Bertha collar Round
 Falling band collar
 Partlet collar
 Cape collar
 Cascade jabot collar
 Bib with frill collar
 Eton collar
 Ascot collar
 Barbett collar
 Cowl Collar
 Carcaille collar
 Convertible open collar
 Convertible closed collar
 Gorget collar
 Pussy Bow collar
 Fichu collar
1. Straight Collars
Popularly called as the basic shirt collar, the straight collar is the
most formal type of collar. Worn mostly for official purposes, this
type of collar is typically made out of cotton and belongs to formal
office wears and pairs impeccably well with a blazer. Straight
collars made in chambray look good on casual tops too.
2. Peter Pan Collars
This rounded-edged collar is known for its semi-formal appeal.
They are typically seen sitting atop button-down blouses. This sort
of collar is back in fashion, and when edging of the collar marries
the lace or some sort of bling, then it makes for an irresistible
combination. Channel the modern take of Peter Pan collar and strut
around like a modern princess.
3. Detachable Collars
Known for their round neck or V-neck charm, the detachable
beauties are mostly available in vivid colours to give a boost to
your overall look. Some might even make you use studs to fasten
them to a shirt.
4. Turtleneck Collars
Known for their high knitted appeal, these collars sit around the
neck and are typically known for this turned down or scrunched
under the neck appeal.
5. Sailor Collars
Linked deeply with the Unites States Navy image, the sailor collar
is quite in vogue for their double square panel and middle V-neck
appeal. Tie a loose scarf under this vintage collar to give a new-age
style and class.
6. Mandarin Collars
Inspired from the typical stand up chenogasm collar, these
Chinese-inspired collars are known for their standing charm.
The centre front of mandarin collar might be squared or
curved in shape giving the shirt a close and structured
fitting.
7. Rolled Collars
Rolled collars are known for their standing upright at the
edge of the neck and the rest folding downwards appeal. The
fall of the collar is similar to the roll line, hence the name
rolled collar.
8. Flat Collars
These types of collars fall flat on the dress line and are quite plain
in their look. This is one of the best collars to play around with;
accessorising or putting a statement neckpiece underneath the
collar for that glam effect.

Sleeves:-
Sleeve is that part of the garment, which covers the arm of the
body and is usually attached to armhole of bodice pattern. Sleeves
support the design and functional element of a garment. In design
sleeves should complement the bodice of the garment and as for
functional sleeves should provide ease of movement and comfort.
In today’s world not only does the garment vary in designs and
styles but the sleeves too have different styles and thus vary in their
construction. By choosing a sleeve style that suits the figure of
wearer, design of the fabric, design of the dress and current
fashions, it can enhance the appearance of the dress.
 Sleeve types
There are different types of sleeves; some of them are plain
sleeves, bell sleeves, Full sleeves, Raglan sleeve, and Kimono
sleeve.

1. Plain sleeve
Plain sleeve has no fullness at lower edge or top edge. Pattern is
require for a short plain sleeve. Plain sleeve pattern can be used to
develop other types of sleeves.

2. Full sleeves
Full sleeves are mostly used in Gents shirt, in which the lower
edges finished with a cuff. The pattern preparation for this is
similar to ¾th sleeve preparation. But the height must be extended
till wrist and circumference can be changed accordingly.

3. Kimono sleeves
Kimono sleeves are cut together with the front and back bodice.
The kimono sleeve is always cut with a deeper armhole than the set
in sleeve. That is in these types of sleeves there are no shoulder
seam or armhole seam. The sleeve runs from the side seam of
sleeve to side seam of bodice. Generally these sleeves are preferred
for comfort ability purpose. Because of the extra fabric between the
sleeve and the bodice wrinkles under the arm are unavoidable in
these sleeves. These kinds of sleeves are mainly used in tops,
sportswear, kids wear etc.
4. Raglan sleeves
Raglan sleeves have part of their sleeve attached to their bodice.
Form the neckline to underarm a diagonal seam is formed. In these
sleeves too shoulder seam and armhole sleeve is not needed. In
order to increase the freedom of movement the armhole is lowered
in these sleeves. Across the chest extra ease is added.

5. Magyar Sleeves
Magyar sleeve is a long sleeve having a deep armhole which is
tapered towards the wrist. These are also called as batwing sleeves.
This type of sleeve is cut along the bodice. Take the bodice pattern
extend the shoulder line 2" from the tip of the shoulder. According
to lower arm circumference draw the line perpendicular to bodice
pattern and attach the edge to bodice pattern.

6. Bell Sleeves
Bell sleeves are narrow at shoulders are gradually widens as it
reaches the wrist, especially below the elbow. These types of
sleeves slim the shoulders and is usually used for small arms.
Different styles can be made in these sleeves by cutting any length
from upper arm, the elbow, the lower arm or the wrist.

7. Set –in sleeves

Set-in sleeves are stitched to the bodice armhole. These sleeves can
be cut to any length. They can be fitted or flared and their hemline
can be finished in different styles. These types of sleeves must be
gathered, darted, tucked and sewn into the bodice armhole seam.
Pockets:-
A small bag sewn into or on clothing so as to form part of it, used
for carrying small articles is known as pocket. The different types
of pocket are shown below –

Patch
A pocket that is pressed and sewn on to the exterior of a garment.

Patch with pleat

As the patch pocket, but with a box pleat to create more space
within the pocket.

Jetted
 The pocket is constructed by cutting through the garment to the
required length of the finished pocket, then the edges are bound
and a pocket bag attached to the back of the garment.

Jetted with reinforcement

As the jetted pocket, but with leather or fabric patches stitched
to the edge of the pocket to strengthen the finished binding.

Shirt
Normally a breast pocket placed on any kind of shirt but usually
a work shirt. It is a patch pocket with a shaped bottom and a turned
back and top-stitched welt effect at the top.
Patch with flap
As the patch pocket, but with a bagged out flap, the same width
as the patch and stitched above the patch, to cover the opening. It is
finished with a button or stud fastening.

Welt
Similar in construction to the jetted pocket in that the garment is
slashed to the length of the finished pocket and a folded and
bagged out piece of fabric, the width of the finished pocket, plus
seam allowance, is set into the slash and stitched up at the sides.
The extended flap is stitched down at the sides and covers the
pocket opening.
Jetted with Zip
As the jetted pocket, but with a zip set into the opening created
by the bindings.

Post box in patch

The patch pocket and jetted pocket combined in that the
entrance to the pocket is through the jet, the patch being stitch all
the around.

Angled flap
A shaped flap set into the garment like an upside down welt.
Jetted with Tab
As the jetted pocket, but with a tab for fastening set into the jet.

Mechanic’s
Normally seen on dungarees, overalls and work jeans, the
mechanic’s pocket is a large patch with cut away top and tag at the
bottom for hanging tools.

Utility
Like the kangaroo pocket but with many more divisions for
specific tools and instruments.
Western
Like the angled flap, but with a bottom carving to a point,
echoing the western or cowboy style of pocket.

Jetted with flap

This pocket is like the jet with tab. The flap runs the full width
of the pocket and here has curved corners.
Bellows
A patch pocket with a pleat set behind it that expands to
accommodate articles placed within it. Applied to work jackets and
coats.

Patch with tab

As the patch pocket, but with an extended tab and button head for
decoration only.
Denim top-stitched
A patch pocket made from denim and applied to denim jeans
and other jeans-styled garments. It has the hallmark twin top-
stitching.

Rounded flap
Like the angled flap but with curved edges.

Curved jet
As the jetted pocket but the cut in the garment is curved, not
straight. This example has leather reinforcements.
Bucket
A patch pocket cut with flare at the top, like a cowl neck, and
applied to the external surface of the garment. It creates a draped
silhouette.

Petal
A patch pocket that is split in two and overlapped with a curved
top, to create a folded petal effect.
Kangaroo
A wide patch pocket split into two by a stitch line.
Float Stitch
A float stitch or welt stitch is composed of a held loop, one or more
float loops and knitted loops. It is produced when a needle (M)
holding its old loop fails to receive the new yarn that passes, as a
float loop, to the back of the needle and to the reverse side of the
resultant stitch, joining together the two nearest needle loops
knitted from it.

the float stitch shows the missed yarn floating freely on the reverse
side of the held loop. (This is the technical back of single-jersey
structures but is the inside of rib and interlock structures.) The
float extends from the base of one knitted or tucked loop to the
next, and is notated either as an empty square or as a bypassed
point. It is assumed that the held loop extends into the courses
above until a knitted loop is indicated in that wale.
A single float stitch has the appearance of a U-shape on the reverse
of the stitch. Structures incorporating float stitches tend to exhibit
faint horizontal lines. Float stitch fabrics are narrower than
equivalent all-knit fabrics because the wales are drawn closer
together by the floats, thus reducing width-wise elasticity and
improving fabric stability.

TheTuck Stitch :-………………………………………………………………………….

A tuck stitch is composed of a held loop, one or more tuck loops
and knitted loops. It is produced when a needle holding its loop
also receives the new loop, which becomes a tuck loop because it is
not intermeshed through the old loop but is tucked in behind it on
the reverse side of the stitch. Its side limbs are therefore not
restricted at their feet by the head of an old loop, so they can open
outwards towards the two adjoining needle loops formed in the
same course. The tuck loop thus assumes an inverted V or U-
shaped configuration. The yarn passes from the sinker loops to the
head that is intermeshed with the new loop of a course above it, so
that the head of the tuck is on the reverse of the stitch.