Wool Industry

WOOL INDUSTRY
Source of Wool Fibers
1. Sheep
2. Alpaca
3. Angora Goats
4. Cashmere Goats
5. Llamas
Sheep Alpaca Angora Goat Cashmere Goat Llamas
International Wool Textile Organization (IWTO) – is an organization body that sets standard for wool.
Link for IWTO: http://www.iwto.org/about-iwto
IWTO is the recognized global authority for standards in the wool textile industry. Since 1930, IWTO has
represented the interests of the wool textile trade at a global level. Our worldwide membership
encompasses the entire wool textile pipeline, from farm to retail. By facilitating research and
development, wool textile education and knowledge sharing, IWTO ensures a sustainable future for wool.
Wool testing services offered by SGS

Link: http://www.sgs.com/en/agriculture-food/commodities/analytical-services/fibers/greasy-wool#cta-
download
GREASY WOOL TESTING (SGS)

We operate to International Wool Textile Organization (IWTO) standards wherever possible.
Our wool measurement services include certified tests for:
 Yield – determining the amount of clean wool (woolbase), and vegetable matter contamination
in a sample
 Mean fiber diameter – the average fineness of the wool (fiber thickness), which is a primary
determinant of wool value
 Color – measured as tristimulus values, and normally used to assess clean color brightness (Y
value) and yellowness (Y-Z value)
We also perform additional tests, as required:
 Staple length and strength – we use the average staple length, staple strength and position of
break to assess the performance of apparel wools in the worsted processing system
 Bulk – this measures the fibers’ ability to fill space and also relates to resilience, which are
important properties for applications such as carpets, futons and insulation
 Fiber curvature – relates to bulk, compressibility and crimp and is cited as an influence on
processing
 Fiber diameter distribution – information about aspects of the diameter distribution may affect
assessments of comfort and processing performance
 Diameter-length profile – measuring the average diameter at increments along the length of
wool staples may be important for managing sheep flocks and, in the future, may assist in
predicting processing performance
 Medullation – refers to the hollow fibers in wool and other animal fibers, which causes uneven
dye uptake and adversely affects appearance in apparel wools (but may be desirable for some
carpet types)
We can also test greasy wool samples using a variety of low-cost fleece testing methods that are
specifically designed for animal selection purposes.
To verify the quality and quantity of greasy wool across a range of criteria, contact SGS now to ask about
our independent testing services.
SCOURED WOOL TESTING

Our scoured wool measurement services include certified tests for:
 Conditioned mass – wool absorbs up to 20 percent of its weight as moisture so invoicing is
based on an agreed moisture content or regain (known as the conditioned mass)
 Yield – determining the amounts of clean wool (woolbase), and vegetable matter contamination
in a sample
 Mean fiber diameter – the average fineness of the wool (fiber thickness), which is a primary
determinant of wool value
 Color – measured as tristimulus values, and normally used to assess clean color brightness (Y
value) and yellowness (Y-Z value)
In addition, we certify a large proportion of scoured wool for Length After Carding (LAC). To do this, we
use a standardized method of simulating semi-worsted processing to estimate mean fiber length after
processing. We also test for:
 Residuals – the amount of mineral matter and residual grease left on the fibers after scouring,
indicating scouring efficiency
 pH – the acidity or alkalinity of the wool after scouring affects the dyeing process, so it is
important for processors to know the pH value
 Alkali solubility and extent of bleaching – solubility is used to assess fiber damage, while the
extent of bleaching is important in some processes
 Medullation – refers to the hollow fibers in wool and other animal fibers, which causes uneven
dye uptake and adversely affects appearance in apparel wools (but may be desirable for some
carpet types)
 Bulk – this measures the fibers’ ability to fill space and also relates to resilience, which are
important properties for applications such as carpets, futons and insulation
 Fiber curvature – relates to bulk, compressibility and crimp and is cited as an influence on
processing
 Fiber diameter distribution – information about aspects of the diameter distribution may affect
assessments of comfort and processing performance
 Detergent residuals – wools intended for certain markets must be scoured with detergents that
do not contain nonyl phenol ethoxylate (NPEO)
 Mothproofing treatments – these must comply with the appropriate regulations
 Sanitary reports – shipments to certain destinations require an inspection report confirming that
any residual vegetable matter is non-viable, while other places may require sanitization
procedures to be verified
 Exports to Iran – these shipments require conformity assessment involving specialized testing to
Iranian Standards
STANDARDS FOR TESTING THE WOOLS
ASTM D584-10 –Standard Test Method for Wool content of Raw Wool – Laboratory Scale
ASTM D1060 – Practice for Core Sampling of Raw Wool in Packages for Determination of Percentage of
Clean Wool Fiber Present
ASTM D1113 – Test Method for Vegetable Matter and other Alkali-insoluble impurities in Scoured Wool.
ASTM D1334 – Test Method for Wool Content of Raw Wool (Commercial Scale)
ASTM D2525 – Practice for Sampling Wool for Moisture
ASTM D2720 – Practice for Calculation of Commercial Weight and Yield of Scoured Wool, Top, and Noil
for various Commercial Compositions.
ASTM D4845 – Terminology Relating to Wool
IWTO 19-85 (E) - Method for the Determination of Wool Base, Vegetable Matter Base.
Australian Wool Testing Authority (AWTA) - AWTA Raw Wool provides independent and objective wool
certification services. AWTA Raw Wool's major services are sampling, testing and certifying the yield, fiber
diameter, vegetable matter content, staple length and staple strength of greasy wool before it is sold
AWTA List of Standard Methods

Link: http://www.awtaproducttesting.com.au/index.php/services/list-of-standard-methods
Wool Testing Authority (Europe) Ltd.

Link: https://www.wtaeurope.com/services/greasy-and-scoured-wool.php?type=wool-base-and-
vegetable-matter-base
Woolmark Company
Wool Production Process
Wool is one of the most naturally inspiring fibes on the planet and undergoes a unique journey from the
sheep’s back to the world of fashion.
1. Classification – categorizing the wool for the end product. Wool fibers chosen for
worsted garments tend to be longer and more uniform in length than those destined for
woolen ones. (Worsted and Woolen)
2. Scouring Process – the journey for both types of wool begins with scouring process.
Washing the wool in hot water and detergent and extracting the lanolin which can be
used in cosmetics.
3. Carding – the wool is then blow-dried and undergoes a process called carding opening
up the tangled fibers into a continuous length. At the end of carding, the woolen roving
is extracted while the worsted sliver moves on to the gilling process.
4. Gilling Process – This is the next process where the worsted sliver moves next. It is
designed to further align the fibers.
5. Combing – from there, the wool undergoes a process called combing. The sliver is pulled
through a fine- tooth comb leaving short fibers and contamination behind.
6. Drawing – the resultant wool top is drawn down to a fine rope called a worsted roving.
7. Spinning – the worsted and woolen roving are spun by a plying twist which binds the
fibers together to form continuous and strong yarn.
NOTE: Worsted yarns are fine and smooth whereas woolen yarns have more texture
and bulk.
The yarn is the raw material of the fashion industry. It can be knitted through a process
of interlocking loops or woven (weaving) by interlacing weft yarns across warp yarns
which run the length of the fabric.
8. Dyeing – wool can be dyed at almost any stage of the process and involves treating the
fibers with colored dyes in boiling water.
9. Finishing – the fabric then undergoes a process called finishing designed to create
wool’s characteristic softness and texture. It is washed, steamed and then pressed ready
for delivery.

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Wool Industry

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WOOL INDUSTRY

Source of Wool Fibers

Sheep Alpaca Angora Goat Cashmere Goat Llamas

Wool testing services offered by SGS

GREASY WOOL TESTING (SGS)

SCOURED WOOL TESTING

STANDARDS FOR TESTING THE WOOLS

ASTM D2525 – Practice for Sampling Wool for Moisture

ASTM D4845 – Terminology Relating to Wool

AWTA List of Standard Methods

Wool Testing Authority (Europe) Ltd.

Wool Production Process

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