Dharamsala: 1 Understand
Dharamsala: 1 Understand
Dharamsala: 1 Understand
1
2 4 SEE
For a quiet and basic experience, try Naddi (3 km) or Railway to Kangra, a journey that easily takes up to 6
Talnu (11 km). hours and still leaves you 18 km from McLeod Ganj.
Many travellers choose to continue by bus or taxi instead.
If you do choose to go to Kangra then from the train sta-
1.2 Climate tion then you need to walk and autorickshaw to the bus
stop where buses are available to take you to Dharamsala.
Lower Dharamsala is at an altitude of 1,400 m, while
McLeod Ganj is at around 1,750 m, making them con-
siderably cooler than the plains below. Temperatures 2.4 By taxi
in January can dip below freezing, while June can go up
to 38°C. The monsoon season from July to September is A taxi from Pathankot to McLeod Ganj, a distance of
very wet. Even in March, when the Dalai Lama holds 88 km, takes about 3 hours, and the official fare from
his teachings and the weather down in Delhi is downright Pathankot is ₹ 1,300 (return). However the asking rate is
balmy, you will still need a heavy winter coat. These can always ₹ 1,600 and you can negotiate to around ₹ 1,450
be purchased at reasonable prices in the town. ( ₹50 is probably charged as a toll ). This is December
2011 rate for a small car ( Indica ).
Taxis from Delhi are often available leaving from Ma-
2 Get in jnu Ki Tila Tibetan settlement in North Delhi on the ring
road. Many people take a taxi to Delhi which takes about
2.1 By plane 10 hours and pay the return fare simply because they don't
want to deal with the hassle and pain of taking a bus.
Gaggal Airport (IATA: DHM) is at Gaggal near These taxis need to return to Dharamshala, and many
Kangra, a distance of 15 km from McLeodganj by road times will sell seats in their car for the same price as a
on MDR44 and NH20. The airport has been recently up- bus ticket. To find these taxis, go to the Majnu Ki Tila
graded. Air India and Spicejet operate daily flights to Tibetan Settlement Bus Stand and look for taxis which
Dharmashala from New Delhi. have Himachal Pradesh License plates. You can negoti-
ate with a driver. Often the taxis will leave in the evening
and you will arrive in Dharamshala early the next morn-
2.2 By bus ing.
5 Do
• Indrahar pass. Passes through the snowbound experience for Buddhists and a memorable moment for
Dhauladhar Range in the Kangra valley. This Trek people of other faiths. It’s also very difficult to pull off,
ends at Lamu.Himalayan Heights Adventure Instt. so don't plan on it. It requires a good deal of luck.
a leading travel and Trekking agency organise and If you want to give it your best shot, the first thing to do is
conducts expeditions to all the passes over Outer make sure that His Holiness is actually in town when you
Himalayan Range (the Dhauladhar). Cross coun- visit. He travels frequently. His website lists his yearly
try treks to Chamba valley, Bharmour, Kullu and itinerary and an email to the office will confirm his travel
Manali,Lahoul & Spiti are conducted under the dates. While he does give scheduled public teachings,
super- vision of qualified instructors. Activities like
these are crowded. There are some that are only sched-
paragling,rafting and other aquatic sports are also uled a few days in advance, so keep your eyes and ears
conducted by this Institute.
open in Dharamsala. The ultimate goal is a private audi-
ence. His website says he is no longer giving them. This
• Triund. If you are in for a brisk walk, climb the
isn't precisely true, but you have to have a really good
hill beyond Dharamkot to Triund. Provides a beau-
reason or an “in.” Go to the office of his secretary.
tiful view of the first peaks of the Himalayas and a
wide view over the plains. As the ridge is 2,875 m, The Dalai Lama’s administrative office is in the Tsug-
make sure to wear good shoes, carry water, some lagkhang Complex. When you face his house, which has
food if you and an extra vest or coat. At the top, a gate with Indian guards in front of it, it’s the last door on
even in summer, the weather can change from hot your right, at the end of the complex. This office is open
and sunny to cold and cloudy very quickly. Every all day, six days a week. The man behind the desk will tell
year some tourists get themselves into serious trou- you to apply online and give you the website address. Go
ble this way, wearing only sandals and a T-shirt. If to an internet cafe and do it if you haven't already done it
you want to warm up before the Triund trek, try the and been rejected months in advance so that you can say
trek to Guna temple. This is a 5 km trek (one way), that you have, but it probably won't get you anywhere.
through jungle and is quite a climb. If the receptionist is there alone, then His Holiness is not
giving private audiences. If a bunch of people are there
If you want to do a shorter trek , hire a small car from holding slips of paper with their personal information and
McLeodganj for ₹ 300-350 to Galu Devi. (Please note; their passports, he’s giving private audiences, they usually
this is not Guna Devi). From there its a 3 hr climb to occur around noon. There is heavy security and you need
Triund. If you plan to stay overnight at Triund , there is a reason. Chat with everyone.
a Forest Rest house (₹ 500 per night ). Take a long your
Some people get in as a group, like a documentary crew
personal double bedsheetbut be aware there is no running
or a family whose father is a politician. Actually, talk to
water or electricity. So a torch , spare batteries is a must.
everyone in Dharamsala about His Holiness, and you're
If the Forest house is booked , then you can hire tents
bound to run into someone who is on his staff or knows
there.
someone on his staff. At the office, drop the name of ev-
ery person you met. If you are visibly ill, you may get
an audience based on that. Granted, this “audience” will
probably last the time it takes for him to bless you, which
is about 10 seconds, and an additional ₹ 5 to pose for a
photo. A photographer is provided and you are not al-
lowed to bring your own camera.
To meet the Dalai Lama is something most Tibetans
worldwide only dream of so count your blessings if you
receive an audience. Bring a khata (white scarf) - they
can be purchased for a few rupees, but since you'll proba-
bly be treasuring that khata, you might want to shell out ₹
20 for a nicer one. If he poses for a picture with you the
security office will tell you to return with a blank CD and
they will burn the picture onto a CD. Blank CDs can be
The “snow lion flag,” a symbol of the Tibetan independence purchased from the tech stores on Temple Rd for about
movement, is strictly outlawed in Tibet but ubiquitous in Dharam- ₹ 50. Remember to show appreciation for anyone whose
sala, name you might have dropped to get in. Donate to their
monastery, eat at their restaurant or whatever you feel is
appropriate. This isn't expected but it’s a nice thing to do.
5.2 Meeting the Dalai Lama
Every year in February–March for ten days or so, and oc-
casionally at other times, the Dalai Lama holds public lec-
Meeting (or at least getting to see) the Dalai Lama is the
tures. Registration at the Tibetan Branch Security Office
dream of a lifetime for many people, an intensive spiritual
6.1 Yoga, meditation, healing 5
(near Hotel Tibet) is necessary, preferably 3–4 days be- • Buddha Hall-Reiki with Usha' (opposite the Ger-
forehand although shorter notice may be possible. Bring man Bakery). Courses in reiki (I,II,III and master)
a cushion to sit on, a FM radio with headphones to listen as well as tarot and crystal healing from Buddha hall
to the simultaneous translation from Tibetan to English, in Bagsu. Flexible and compassionate teacher.
a cup for tea, and a sunhat/umbrella, but as little else as
possible since security is tight. The last day of teaching • Guerrilla Yoga (go down the stairs at Yongling
concludes with public prayers, for which no security pass School. It’s the big green building). 5 day yoga
is needed. Donations are welcome. courses of several varieties in McLeod Ganj. Pri-
vate instruction is available. New studio, opened in
• 17th Karmapa (Dalai Lama’s alternative resi- March of 2008, great staff, very friendly. Also has
dence). A temporary residence is at the Gyuto local art for sale, commission free.
Tantric University in the town of Sidhbari near
McLeod Ganj. • Kailash School of Yoga & Holistic Healing (100
m from the main square. Walk down the stairs
from the Green Shop). Ashtanga Vinyasa and tribal
6 Learn hatha yoga classes are available daily to everyone on
a drop-In basis. Treatments and sessions in reiki,
ayurvedic massage, meditation and 'sound healing'
are available but have to be arranged at least 1 day
in advance. Short and long-term courses.
Courses available include yoga, meditation, reiki, Tibetan • Vipassana (near Dharamkot). 10 days meditation
and Indian cooking classes, Tibetan language classes and course. You need to register in advance at their web-
Thai massage. Many courses include vegetarian meals, site . The course will teach you the Vipassana tech-
and are offered at meditation centres. nique. You have to be completely silent, and you are
provided 2 meals and very light dinner. The course
is free, but you can leave a donation if you please.
6.1 Yoga, meditation, healing The course is a fairly intense form of meditation re-
treat (14 hr days) in the Theravada tradition. Pre-
• Asho Institute, Bhagsu Village. Courses in vious meditation experience is not required as you
ayurvedic nutrition and tai-chi. will be asked to set aside your current practices while
learning the vipassana technique. Some would rec-
• Amit Reiki & Meditation Centre, Jogiwara Rd, ommend that beginners attend a course such as that
B, Mcleodganj (below Yongling School), ☎ +91 94 offered by Tushita which is a mix of meditation, phi-
18909046. losophy, and discussions.
6 8 BUY
• Yogi Cottage, Bhagsu Rd (Mcleodganj). Yoga al- • Lha Social Work. Lha is one of the largest char-
liance approved ₹ 200-500 yoga teacher training itable social work organizations in Dharamsala and
programs, reiki lessons for individuals or groups. McLeod Ganj and aims to provide vital resources
see also: http://www.yogatribe.org and services for Tibetan refugees, the local Indian
population, and people from the Himalayan regions.
• Z-Meditation. 15 day silent meditation retreat in Volunteers are needed for English, French, and Chi-
lower Dharamsala. Deep deconditioning inquiry, nese classes, IT classes, vocational training, health
radiant mantras, creative meditations, assignments and environmental awareness education, distribu-
for disentangling your own life, and also 2 hr of tion of clothes and medicine, a community kitchen
daily yoga, three vegetarian meals and a refreshment and many other programs and activities.
break. The entire retreat is undertaken in silence.
Courses are US$600-1,200 depending on accom- • Mountain Cleaners. Mountain Cleaners is an en-
modation arrangements. vironmental non-governmental organisation (NGO)
involved in waste management activities for busi-
nesses, locals and tourists in the Dharamsala area.
6.2 Cooking classes The organisation also arranges clean-up treks, and
children’s days that volunteers can participate in.
• Lha Charitable Trust, Temple Road, ☎ +91 18 92
220992. Get your hands dirty while you learn to • Rogpa Cafe, Jogibara Rd, is always looking for vol-
make different kinds of momos, Tibetan breads, and unteers to work in the cafe or to look after children
Tibetan noodles. Contact Lha to set up a class. Also at the Day Care centre. This is a 2 week commit-
have volunteer opportunities. ₹300 for a 2 hr class. ment. All proceeds go to the Rogpa Day Care centre
that provides free services for local children.
• Llhamo’s Kitchen. Learn how to cook traditional
Tibetan food with different courses every day in- • Tesi Environmental Awareness Movement, . If
cluding soups, momos and Tibetan bread. Run by you are an environmental expert, then contact this
a delightful Tibetan man called Llhamo. It all takes non-profit Tibetan group.
place in Llhamo’s single room house right in the cen-
tre of town. • Volunteer Tibet, . Teaching English and computer
skills are common options. This organisation may
• Mr Sangye’s Kitchen, Joqibara Rd (further down likely pass you over to LHA or other organisations.
from the post office and the pool hall), ☎ +91 There are also a few institutions that provide for the
98 1616 4540, e-mail: sangyla_tashi@yahoo.co.in. benefit of exiled Tibetans and local Indians. There
Learn how to cook traditional Tibetan food, differ- are also ads on billboards and in the free local mag-
ent courses every day, ranging from soups, momos azine “Contact”.
and Tibetan bread.
You may also approach Tibetans in social circles to help
• Trimurti Cooking Class. Choose any three from them improve their English whilst getting to know each
a wide variety of Indian dishes, and Rajni will show other’s culture and personal story. Be mindful of ac-
you how to make it all in her small, pleasant kitchen. cepting requests for private tutorage from monks on the
Rajni began teaching classes and doing laundry to streets. After a few days they may subject you to demands
support herself after her husband was left paralysed for sponsorship, however stories of this are rare. It may
by a tragic fall. Ask for her above the Himalayan be best to go through a credible and well established or-
Adventures store in upper Bhagsu, near the steps to ganisation if you want to provide assistance in this way.
Dharamkot. In general most monks and lay people are incredibly
grateful to have you help them with their English and it
is a great way to get to know Tibetan people on a more
7 Work personal level. The easiest way to help out is to drop into
LHA on Temple Rd, or LIT on Jogibara Rd and sign up
for tutoring. A commitment of one month is preferred.
7.1 Volunteer
There are some opportunities to volunteer whilst in
Dharamsala. For longer term options such as 1 month 8 Buy
or more ask at the LHA office in the middle of the town.
Staff there are very friendly and always welcoming if peo- Many Tibetan things can be bought in Dharamsala such
ple wish to teach, tutor or get involved in conversational as jewellery and trinkets, woollen shawls, prayer flags,
classes. prayer wheels, thangka and mandala paintings.
7
• Tibetan Singing Bowl. Very easy to play and used • Flourishing Flora, Tipa Rd (15 min walk from the
for sound healing, music therapy or just for relax- main square or chowk of McLeodganj; on the left-
ation. hand side, just before the Tibetan Institute for the Per-
forming Arts or TIPA). A pleasant floral oasis on the
plush open-air patio of a free-standing, somewhat
9 Eat secluded private house (no views to speak of, how-
ever), offering gourmet items (prepared, according
to the sign outside, without compromises in quality).
McLeod Ganj is a great place for eating, and the town has
There are 11 beverages (₹ 30~75; including un-
an abundance of restaurants, especially in the mid to up-
usual ones, like “milk with organic turmeric”, ₹ 40),
per range that cater to foreign tourists. The newer among
breakfast items (₹ 30~70), fresh-baked bread, sand-
those upscale eateries increasingly tend to offer free wifi
wiches (₹ 60~135), salads, baked sweets (₹ 25~70;
connections. Despite the restaurateurs’ claims to the con-
not on display), and set “home-cooked meals” (₹
trary these wifi services are sometimes not fully operative
150~250) which somewhat mysteriously escape fur-
or the connection may be interrupted and hence unsuit-
ther elaboration in the menu. Managed by an Indo-
able for downloads. At the very least do not allow yourself
American couple. No wifi. ₹30~₹250.
to be lured into settling down for an extended session at an
eating-place solely by their outdoor WiFi signage before • Green Restaurant, Green Hotel, Bhagsu Rd (300
first ascertaining the quality of that service. m or 10 min walk from McLeodganj’s central square
Momos sold by numerous Tibetan street vendors usually or chowk, on the right-hand side, past Kunga Guest-
sell at ₹10 for 4 pieces. These are safe to eat and accept- house), ☎ +91 18 9222 1200, +91 18 9221479.
able to the Western palate even if they cannot be expected 7AM~9PM. Well-known, popular, and trendy, a
to match the level of culinary delicacy of those offered by place to eat and be seen; decent, hearty food, all
some of the best establishments listed below. supposedly organic, good Western pies and Tibetan
dishes, consistent in quality (if on rare occasion they
• Carpe Diem, Jogibara Rd (300 m or 10 min walk try to offload on you yesterday’s quiche just return it
from McLeodganj’s central square or chowk, on the and order something else). Terrace in the back of-
left-hand side, one storey above street level). Interna- fers limited views over McLeodganj and the Kangra
tional cuisine, including Mexican, Thai, Italian, and Valley beyond (partly obstructed by water tanks on
Nepalese. The day’s selection of cakes on display. the roof of the neighbouring house) to be enjoyed on
Nepalese staff; small library of books for in-house uncomfortable chairs; inside seating on cushy sofas
perusal; occasional live music. more agreeable. Pay by the hour wifi at higher rates
than those offered by most Internet cafés in town.
• Chocolate Log, Jogibara Rd (20 min' walk from Reading matter for your visit can be chosen from a
McLeodganj’s central square or chowk, on the left- small library of books, but this feature is not unique
hand side at the point where the road takes a sharp and is customarily offered by most of McLeodganj’s
turn to the right), ☎ +91 18 9222 1993. A virtual other trendy spots as well. ₹40~100.
landmark for decades and well-known to most lo-
• Herbal Tea Shop, Tipa Rd (5 min walk from the
cals, run by a Kashmiri-pandit couple. It is essen-
main square or chowk of McLeodganj; on the left-
tially a cake-cum-pastry shop with a delightful sit-in
hand side, next door to the much larger 'Tennor' In-
café on the upper-level sylvan terrace. Middling to
ternet café by which it may be overshadowed in ap-
good baked items, coffee entirely disappointing.
pearance). 8AM~10PM. A gourmet shop serving
specialty herbal teas, fresh-squeezed fruit juices, and
• Common Ground Cafe, Tushita Rd (100 m uphill desserts such as banana cake and chocolate mousse,
from main square or chowk of McLeodganj), ☎ +91 all outstanding in quality, with most items costing a
18 9222 0264. A non-profit café set up as a meeting flat ₹ 50 each. This is not a place in which to ap-
place between Chinese and Tibetans that holds many pease a ravenous hunger, but rather one in which to
discussions and shows promoting harmony and un- savour delicacies in small portions and convivial at-
derstanding between the two cultures. Taiwanese mosphere. Divan-style seating directly on the floor
and fusion food served in a place to sit and relax with the aid of cushions. Some additional seating is
with your shoes off on the raised seating area. available outdoors on a divan put out in front of the
establishment during opening hours. A hub for an
• Dolma & Dorjee, Bagsu Rd (in the last bend of the informal single-women’s support group. ₹100 for
road to Bhagsu, just before you leave McLeod Ganj.). herbal tea and cake.
Small inexpensive restaurant at the quieter end of
Bagsu Rd. Run by a delightful, friendly family who • Himalaya Restaurant, Bhagsu Rd. A stylish
give the place its character. Excellent banana bread eatery. Don't be put off by the small intimate down-
and good chai. stairs area. The second floor boasts an all weather
8 9 EAT
patio and elegant decor. The menu is slightly pricey Lhamo. The second floor has comfortable Japanese
but the food and setting more than makes up for it. style seating on cushions and Tibetan carpets. Fan-
Tibetan, Indian, Chinese and western cuisine. ₹ 80- tastic views from the roof top. Free wi-fi.
180.
• Lung-Ta, Jogibara Rd (all the way near the southern
• Jimmy’s Italian Kitchen, Jogibara Rd (a few steps end of town), M-Sa, noon-11PM, closed Sundays.
from McLeodganj’s main square or chowk, on the Excellent Japanese food, pay attention to the daily
left-hand side, just past the Buddhist chorten and on specials. There is also a small clothing store which
the opposite side to it, one storey above street level). sells high end Tibetan inspired fashions. Non-profit,
Nice decor with old, and not-so-old, movie posters, proceeds go towards assisting former political pris-
unprofessional staff apparently left unsupervised by oners and documenting human rights violations.
the owners. Food better than that offered at the
other Italian style places in town, with great salads,
• Malabar Restaurant, Jogibara Rd (near the bus
and acceptable pastas (napolitana, arrabbiata, quat-
stand), 11AM-11PM everyday. Serves Indian stan-
tro formaggi, puttanesca) and pizzas. ₹100~₹130.
dards along with a few selections of Chinese and
some continental dishes. This is one of the oldest
• JJI Exile Brothers Mama’s Kitchen, Bhagsu Rd restaurants in town.
(a short walk from McLeodganj’s central square or
chowk, on the right-hand side, between Peace Cof-
fee House and Kunga Guesthouse). 8:30AM~10PM. • Maza Falafel, Near Bhagsu Temple (Opposite Ger-
A cozy little hole-in-the-wall type of place with man Bakery). Good falafel for ₹ 70.
5 tables, a counter, and a dog. Decent Tibetan
food, with 5 versions of thukpa and thenthuk each • Momo Café, Tipa Rd (just above the main square
(₹ 50~80), brown-flour momos (₹ 50~70, includ- or chowk of McLeodganj, the first house, or rather
ing the rare spinach variety), and several less-well- shack, on the right). 7:30AM~9:30PM (summer);
known Tibetan specialties (such as tingmo (steamed 8AM~9:30PM (winter). A bare-bones somewhat
bread) with vegetables, ₹ 60~70); also vegetable and dingy eatery prized for its momos. A 12-page bilin-
fruit salads (₹ 40~60), rice dishes (₹ 40~70; in- gual menu in English and Japanese describes 9 va-
cluding the mysteriously named “Om Rice”), sev- rieties of the delicacy in the vegetarian category (₹
eral versions of chow mein (₹ 40~70), and soups 50~70 for a plate of 10~12 pieces) and 5 varieties in
(₹ 40~50). Desserts include vegan chocolate cake the non-veg category (₹ 60~80 for a plate of 3~12
and rum cake with nuts. Tea (₹ 10~30); pocha pieces). Tibetan dishes have nine elaborations of
included. “Farmer’s Breakfast” (an omelette with the thukpa. Western and Tibetan breakfast includes
mixed vegetables, tomatoes and potatoes, served pancakes, omelettes and muesli dishes. Chinese sta-
with Tibetan butter toast and tea, ₹ 100) is a famous ples include 7 varieties of chow mein. Tibetan bread
set item, offered alongside several varieties of pan- comes in giant size, matching a dinner plate in cir-
cakes (₹ 40~60), styles of porridge, and fresh juices cumference, with special filling (₹ 25). Despite the
(₹ 40~50). Owned by three Tibetan musician broth- simplicity of the physical space with only three ta-
ers “JJI Exile Brothers” who give live performances bles this is a gourmet place, with creative spinoffs on
on the premises on Sundays at 7:30PM. Admission traditional dishes that are not easily to be found even
is ₹ 100 extra per person; advance booking essen- in much bigger establishments. Notwithstanding the
tial, otherwise they may not show up. The band’s presence of the word “Café" in the establishment’s
recorded music can be heard at other times. Por- name, this is decidedly not a place for a coffee expe-
tions tend to be smallish. A bookshelf with some rience. The necessity to share one’s table with other
reading materials, no wifi. diners may be disconcerting to some. ₹ 25~80.
• Le Vrai Café, Jogibara Rd, (just above the Choco- • Namgyal Café, Nehru Rd, Mcleodganj (at the OM
late Log, and down the hill from the post office). This Hotel). 10AM~10PM. Tibetan and Italian dishes,
is the place to get European continental food and Western-style cakes, and a gamut of tea varieties (₹
atmosphere. Run by a Franco-Tibetan couple, ex- 10~50), full of character (enhanced by Bob Mar-
pect top quality coffee, plenty of chess and a real ley music in the background) and popular with the
locals’ atmosphere. Epitomises the trans-nationality McLeodganj cognoscenti. A small library of books
of McLeod, to be celebrated and savoured. donated by previous guest can be read in duration
of the visit or can be borrowed at nominal costs.
• Lhamo’s Croissant. Bhagsu Rd. A simple yet Serves among the best thin crust pizzas available in
stylish eatery. Breakfasts, sandwiches, soups, salads north India cooked using a range of garden fresh
and deserts, as well as coffee’s and a good selection ingredients. Don't forget to order tomato sauces
of teas. The bread is baked fresh each morning by (grown from tomatoes in their own backyard) with
9
your dish. A good place to chat with fellow com- to those served at Namgyal Café (above). Do not
panions or other travellers over a cup of coffee. Try risk coffee here, however. Small library of books
to occupy the window table offering the best view to be perused during your visit. Home delivery is
of valley below. Foods takes some to be prepared advertised in the menu. ₹ 65~150.
as it is freshly prepared for every order by the owner
couple. ₹ 50~200 per person for a light meal. • Peace Coffee House, Bhagsu Rd (between Kunga
Guesthouse and Green Hotel; one storey above street
• Nick’s Italian Kitchen, Kunga Guesthouse, Bhagsu level, ascended via a narrow metal stepladder).
Rd (5 min walk from McLeodganj’s main square or 7AM~10PM. A would-be swanky wifi café run by
chowk). 6AM~9PM. An airy well-lit room with young Tibetans and serving a variety of food includ-
windows giving out on Bhagsu Rd. Decent West- ing breakfast muesli, toast, sandwiches, specialty
ern fare of lesser quality with some Tibetan dishes teas. good coffee. Some items are distinguished
available. The numerical menu has 194 items to by the carefulness of preparation; free access to wifi
choose from. The terrace in the back offers views (slow speed). Its minuscule single-table front ter-
over the McLeodganj Valley and Kangra Valley be- race overlooking Bhagsu Rd and 4-table front room
yond, similar to those visible from the terraces of are complemented by a back terrace with 6 tables
the neighbouring Green Restaurant and Peace Cof- and good (unobstructed) views of McLeodganj. A
fee House. A limited library of books and a popu- very tiny library of books, including guidebooks. ₹
lar noticeboard. Service here has been good -- you 50~100.
write up your order yourself and hand it to any of the
many service staff. Tables are kept clean and the en-
• Peace Café, Takhyil Guesthouse, Jogibara Rd
tire place gets a thorough wipedown every morning.
(10 min walk from the main square or chowk of
The place becomes noisy when crowded. Free wifi,
McLeodganj; on the right-hand side of the section of
occasional malfunctions like everywhere else here,
the street populated by vegetable-mongers, and a cou-
fine for surfing or uploading pictures, but slow for
ple of stairs above the street level). A down-to-earth
downloads (30 kBps). ₹ 30~150.
(in every sense) and somewhat drab breakfast place
frequented by backpackers, offering egg dishes (₹
• Norling Restaurant, Jogibara Rd (a short walk 20~45), porridge (with mixed fruit, ₹ 65), toast,
from McLeodganj’s central square or chowk, on the sandwiches (tofu sandwich, ₹ 45), several types of
right-hand side, just before the Dolma Chowk cor- bread (₹ 5~25; ₹ 5 extra for peanut butter, jam, or
ner). Tibetan food is barely on the passable side honey), and pancakes (₹ 40~70; mixed-fruit choco-
and the Tibetan proprietress may give the impres- late pancake, ₹ 70); also French fries (₹ 35), Ti-
sion that she has better things to do than running a betan dishes such as thukpa (₹ 40~70) of uncertain
restaurant). The distinction between vegetarian and quality, and momos (steamed, ₹ 40~50; fried mo-
non-vegetarian cuisine is very hazy here, a circum- mos ₹ 10 extra). Good lassi in several varieties (in-
stance which may deter vegetarian patrons: if you cluding unusual ones, e.g. “apple lassi"; ₹ 20~35).
order “Special Thenthuk” (or “Special Thukpa"; ₹
95 each) here, it will arrive with chicken and mutton
pieces in it, without any forewarning of the nature • Pema Thang’s Guest House, Bhagsu Rd (opposite
of the dish in the menu. “Vegetable Thenthuk” (₹ Bhagsu Hotel) 11AM-10PM everyday. Continental
50), appears to be prepared with meat stock as well. and local styled vegetarian food. Try the fried ba-
Seafood dishes (₹ 255~295). Some dishes appear nana with nuts and the pepperoni pizza. They also
absurdly overpriced such as the hooko soup, ₹ 400. serve great thenthuk.
No wifi or any reading materials. ₹ 50~400.
• Pizzicato Cafe, Palampur (Palampur shopping cen-
• Om Hotel, (near the main bus square in Mcleod tre, next to the auto-rickshaw stand). Famous for
Ganj). Family run restaurant/hotel has great Mexi- its dark chocolate pastry made from fat free yogurt.
can and Tibetan food, and is very cheap. Great view It has a good selection of pizzas and toasted sand-
from terrace. wiches.
• Oogo’s Café Italiano, Jogibara Rd (a short walk • Restaurant Mc'Llo, Main Square. Situated in one
from McLeodganj’s central square or chowk, on the of the most crowded public places in town, this huge
left-hand side). A town fixture since 2004 with a place, spread among several floors, is as noisy, and
hole-in-the-wall appearance; despite its once care- as cramped as the square outside. Extensive selec-
fully designed interior decor it is now rather run- tion of Chinese, Punjabi, south Indian and north In-
down and without character. Offers several vari- dian food, most of it geared to the Indian palate of
eties of risotto, and of course pastas (₹ 65~99) and the patrons along with fantastic pizza. There is also
thin-crust pizzas (₹ 70~130), generally comparable a decent pub/bar, with a good selection of Western
10 10 DRINK
wines including French and Italian vintages. Floren- • Woeser Bakery, Jogibara Rd (below Black Magic).
tine red, Ruffino Riserva 2005, at ₹ 2,945 a bottle, Best pastries in town baked daily with quality ingre-
non-vintage French Médoc, ₹ 1,845 a bottle, and a dients. The owner and baker, Sangmo, is a young
rooftop terrace with mostly obstructed views. Tibetan always up for a chat with her customers.
Must try the walnut tart, chocolate chilli lollipops,
• Rewa Cafe, Jogiwara Rd, (down the hill, 5 min past handmade cappuccino, vegan cakes (also gluten-
the Post office). Good Tibetan food. free options!), coffee made from fresh beans. Fif-
teen kinds of hot teas, real hot chocolate, Indian
• Shangri La Restaurant, on Jogibara Rd near the chai, milkshakes and other cold drinks, and a small
bus stop is a great little cafe run by monks and with library with a good collection of books. Woeser
all proceeds going to Gyudmed Monastery. Try the Bakery is below Black Magic, on Jogiwara road, 100
Shangri La Sandwich for breakfast. Meals for dinner meters downhill from the main square. ₹ 20~100.
also good quality and well priced.
• Zomsa Café, Tipa Rd (a few steps off the main
• Snow Lion Restaurant, Hotel Tibet, Bhagsu Rd square or chowk of McLeodganj; on the right-hand
(a few steps from McLeodganj’s central square or side, between Momo Café and the Herbal Tea Shop).
chowk, on the right-hand side). This used to be one The newest addition to the McLeodganj coffee
of the best places for Tibetan food in town, in the scene. Opened its doors in the spring of 2011 and
good old days when the restaurant and the hotel to exudes the plushness of interior design that could
which it is attached were owned by the Tibetan Gov- only be arrived at some considerable expense. A
ernment in Exile. This is no longer the case how- distinctly Western feel belying the all-Tibetan own-
ever. Under the new management the place is still ership of the establishment, and appropriately pop-
run fairly efficiently by mainly Nepalese staff, with ulated by hip Tibetan monks working their life away
clean, frequently changed table-cloths but the food on MacBooks Pros. Coffee (₹ 30~70), tea (₹
here is a bad joke. The associated bar, in a separate 10~40), specialty fruit drinks (₹ 40~80), snacks (₹
room called “Dragon Bar”, has drinks for as little 60~80) and breakfast items (₹ 20~50). Coffee here
as ₹ 30, or a glass of champagne for ₹ 550 and is is prepared with highly purified water, as are the
patronised by local alcoholics who may ask you for drinks and the ice-cubes that go with them. Free
“donations”. Takeaway bakery on premises and ac- wifi but no reading materials. ₹ 10~120.
cessible only from Bhagsu Rd.
walk from the bus stand). 10AM-11PM. There are 11.1 Budget
better decorated places, but not as pure as this place.
On the walls there are pictures of Kali, Jesus and • Colonel’s Cozy Corner (near Dari), ☎ +91 94
some Sikh Guru’s. Here religion is second to hu- 1872 4897, +91 98 1677 0899 (bookings), e-mail:
man rights. Being tucked away a bit you might al- colkrishan@yahoo.co.in. Belongs to a helpful re-
most miss it. In the afternoon you might encounter tired army officer and his wife. A secure place
local workers sipping away some thea at lunch. Al- with no one to disturb you. Registered with Hi-
cohol is not served, it is a place to relax, not to get machal Govt tourism department under their Home-
drunk. Breakfast, lunch and dinner is served here. stays scheme . 3 rooms. Home like atmosphere,
Thea 10 ₹. clean linen and safe water. A local 'Dham' (lunch)
is available. ₹ 600-800, negotiable upon period of
stay.
• Moon•Peak espresso, Temple Rd (10 min walk
from McLeodganj’s main square of chowk). 7AM-
• Green Hotel, Bhagsu Rd, McLeod Ganj, ☎
8PM. Coffee for ₹ 40~70, while it is possible to
+91 18 9222 1200, +91 18 9222 1479, e-mail:
find better coffee in McLeodganj this is neverthe-
green@greenhotel.biz. Simple, clean rooms and
less a very pleasant café to visit. All-Tibetan staff
very good restaurant. You can refill your water bot-
and Indian owners. Good, if smallish, sandwiches
tle for ₹ 10/liter here to save on plastic, internet cafe
and several breakfast items. Teas, including herbal;
in the restaurant. Best cakes in town, specially car-
₹ 50~60). This is one of the very few places in
rot cake. ₹ 400-1,000, they also have some newly
McLeodganj with free and really functional WiFi. A
refubished mid-range rooms from ₹ 1,700-2,000.
notice printed within the menu uncharacteristically
enjoins the patron to “please order a few things”
if “you are going to sit on the net for a while”. ₹ • Hotel Akash, ☎ +91 18 9222 1990. Jogiwara
50~120. Rd. Run by a German-Indian family, beautiful clean
rooms. Great coffee and atmosphere.
• River View Apartments, Jogiwara, Heru Village, stylishly furnished rooms and traditional Himachali
☎ +91 98 1620 6406, +91 98 1629 2228. All rooms home-cooked food. Is an ideal base for trekking in
with balcony and kitchen. the Dhauladhar range and day excursions to local
sights and attractions. ₹ 800 per night, including
• Seven Hill’s Guest house (200 m up Tipa Rd), ☎ breakfast, discounts for longer stays.
+91 94 1807 9845. ₹ 100-300 for double room for
2 person. • Pema Thang’s Guest House (opp Bhagsu Hotel), ☎
+91 18 9222 1871. Tibetan-run older guesthouse,
• Shree Guest House (300 m up Tushita Rd), ☎ +91 tucked on a quiet side street with great views over
94 1878 8777. 3 year old guest house run by a family the Kangra Valley. Rooms are starting to show their
in a quieter part of town. ₹ ~150,000 for a double age, but they're scrupulously clean and comfy and
room for 2 person. feature a TV and 24h hot water. Double rooms
₹ 770-1,100, industrial-strength gas heater (neces-
sary in winter) ₹ 200/day extra, kitchenette facilities
• Snow Lion Guest House. Great budget place right
available for longer stays.
in the centre of town ₹ 175 for tiny double room
with communal bathroom.
• Snow Crest Inn Dharamsala, Naddi, Upper
Dharamsala, (3 km from Mcleod Ganj). ☎ +91
• Tibetan Ashoka Guesthouse, ☎ +91 18 9222
94 1808 6608, . A short walk from the Tibetan
1763. Very clean and comfortable rooms at rea-
Childen’s Village. Views of the Dhauladhar Moun-
sonable prices (single for ₹ 220; double about ₹
tain Range from the roof top restaurant or a private
350/night).
balcony. Internet access, TV and solar heated water
for your shower. ₹ 600-700 off season, ₹ 1,200-
11.2 Mid-range 1,400 in high season.
• 8 Auspicious Him View Hotel, ☎ +91 94 1823 • Hotel Valley View Crest, Satobari Hills, Near Dal
6603. Check-in: 11102015, check-out: 14102015. Lake, Naddi, Upper Dharamsala (Just below the hills
Jogiwara Rd, Mcleod Ganj. (below Ladies Venture of Dhauladhar ranges, 5 km from Dharamshala and
Hotel). View of the snow capped Dhauladhar range 3 km from Mcleodganj), ☎ +91 18 9222 0091. 25
from a private balcony. Clean rooms with attached rooms ₹ 1,200.
bathrooms. Located within walking distance of the
main temple of the Dalai Lama and Mcleod Ganj.
Each room is named after one of the eight auspicious 11.3 Splurge
signs of Buddhism and decorated accordingly.
• Asia Health Resorts, ☎ +91 18 9222 0877. Lo-
cated outside of the main centre of McLeod Ganj
• Annex Hotel, ☎ +91 18 9222 1002. Surya Rd.
and Dharamsala, this modern hotel is somewhat
Views over the Kangra Valley. On a quiet side street
sterile, but takes a stab at upmarket, and is the only
close to the main square. 10 rooms, all of which
place in the area where you'll find a (small) swim-
have balconies, cableTV and an attached bathroom
ming pool, and a gym with steam and sauna. Also
with hot water. Sunset Cafe on the rooftop has in-
offers ayurvedic massage, a rooftop bar and some
ternet facilities. Common lounge room, library and
rooms & suites with A/C.
room service. You can also book airline, bus and
train tickets plus tours and trek reservations from the
hotel’s travel desk. From ₹ 850-1,800. • Chonor House, off Temple Rd (on a secluded side
alley verging off Temple Rd near the entrance to
the Tsuglagkhang temple complex), ☎ +91 18 9222
• Bhagsu Hotel. State-run Himachal tourism hotel,
1006, +91 18 9221 1468, fax: +91 18 9222 0815,
which despite the name is in McLeod Ganj. At the
e-mail: chonorhs@norbulingka.org. Check-in: 12
upper end of the price range with carpeted rooms
noon, check-out: 12 noon. One of the best and
and en-suite bathrooms. Has a pleasant pseudo-
easily one of the most expensive places to stay in
English garden with lawn and flowers. ₹ 800-1,600.
McLeodganj. Run by the Norbulingka Institute,
whose proceeds go to helping refugees. Private car
• Hotel Tibet, Bhagsunag Rd. Clean. spotty hot wa- available. Prix fixe breakfast, ₹ 315; prix fixe din-
ter, reasonable meals. Good deals off-season. ner, ₹ 473.. Service in the restaurant, indoors and
on the adjacent open-air terrace is usually very good.
• Jagatram Niwas (Above McLeodganj in the quiet The 11 rooms here are however in high demand, par-
rural village of Heini.), ☎ +91 98 1614 3957. Small, ticularly in the high season of May and June when it
family-run guest house offers peace and quiet, clean, would seem essential to book in advance. Very kind
13
12 Stay safe
The place has become much safer in recent times though
it is advisable to take precautions. Stay vigilant at all times
and be very cautious if staying out after 9PM.
13 Go next
• Amritsar - The holy Sikh city of and its Golden
Temple is a 6 hr bus ride away. Buses leave at 5AM
from the lower bus station.
14.2 Images
• File:Bhagsunag_Waterfall_Pan.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/ef/Bhagsunag_Waterfall_Pan.JPG
License: GFDL Contributors: Own work Original artist: User: (WT-shared) Jpatokal at wts wikivoyage
• File:Dharamsala_Temple_Bazaar.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/8e/Dharamsala_Temple_Bazaar.
JPG License: GFDL Contributors: Own work Original artist: User: (WT-shared) Jpatokal at wts wikivoyage
• File:Dharamsala_View.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e6/Dharamsala_View.JPG License: GFDL
Contributors: Own work Original artist: User: (WT-shared) Jpatokal at wts wikivoyage
• File:Map_mag.png Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/ce/Map_mag.png License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors:
Designer: FatCow Web Hosting (Transferred by TarzanASG) Original artist: The original uploader was Mey2008 at German Wikipedia
• File:Map_of_McLeod_Ganj.png Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f0/Map_of_McLeod_Ganj.png License:
CC BY-SA 4.0-3.0-2.5-2.0-1.0 Contributors: Image:Map of McLeod Ganj.svg Original artist: User:(WT-shared) Cacahuate
• File:Monastery_PrayerWheel.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d2/Monastery_PrayerWheel.JPG Li-
cense: GFDL Contributors: Own work Original artist: User: (WT-shared) Jpatokal at wts wikivoyage
• File:Tibetan_flag.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1e/Tibetan_flag.jpg License: CC BY-SA 4.0-3.0-2.5-
2.0-1.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: J. Miers - User: (WT-shared) Jtesla16 at wts wikivoyage