Harding, H. I. (1922) - Diary of A Journey From Srinagar To Kashgar Via Gilgit
Harding, H. I. (1922) - Diary of A Journey From Srinagar To Kashgar Via Gilgit
Harding, H. I. (1922) - Diary of A Journey From Srinagar To Kashgar Via Gilgit
Kashgar, -
k.?
No. i_
D I A R Y
H . I . H A d D I N G ,
of the British Cons~llar Service in China.
Kashgar
1422.
Table of Contents
0-0-0
Page.
Prelude 3
Diary 5-73
First Intermezzo 20
Second do. 34
Third do . 45
Fourth do. 66
Finale 73
P r e l u d e .
DIARY.
June 8-9. We left Srinagar by boat at noon on the
8 th June. Afcr~ioona ~ cveni~ig
~ d we drifted slowly down
the windii~griver and reached Bandipor early next morning
after crossing by daylight the marshy end of the Wulat Lake.
From the l a ~ ~ d i nplace
g we saw our road leading gently up to-
wards s~iowcappedsummits, of which a constant succession were
daily in view lor the rest of the journey. Again at noon,
having secured three riding ponies and three ponies for
baggage we started on our journey across the mountains.
Tlirce 111iles from the lake shore we rested for an hour at
the house of the Supply and Transport Officer aud there
with his cllar~ningwife and friend drank a farewell ginger
'
beer to civilization.
For a mile beyond the road lay through fields in which
Kaslimiri lads were pla~ltingrice and singing a harmotlious
plaintive air as tlicy worked. Then it began the climb to
Tragbal, sweeping in great zigzags, which bccalilc gratlually
shot-tcr as we ascended, backwards and forwards cross the
face of the ~nountai~l.?'he Tragbal 1)ak t)r~ng:llow, rrt wliicli
we stoppecl for the night, looks o u t ovci. n g~,lssypaicil
between tal! fir trees. At first the clearing .is level, tlle~lslopes
rliore and more rapidly until it plunges into the abyss; n
ravine three thousaild fect deep with evcrgr.ccn I'olcsLs clotlli~r:;
thq muuniains on this siclc a ~ ~ c011l iliai, and a torrent rcinl-il~g
bciow. Near by are other clearltlgs covered wit11 sweet slli)r.i
grass or1 which cattle pasture. I stroll across ti1e111,clin~ba
tiny klroll and sit clocv~~
while the slln scts. klis !.le;licl~liglit
it1 black relief, like tail men, the firs growi~lg ~ipoii i l ~ e
,
the ckn ; mooi~liglit I can see tlie fringe of Il'ees or1 the
opposite summit, a :mile away through ihe air btit miles sway
by road. Two lights are I~urningthere a ~ n o n gthe trees at
the same level as our bullgalow.
J'urle 10. Starting at 7. 30 we were able to I each i l ~ etop
bf'the Tlagbal pass without disniountii~g.~lie I-onclt l i c ~rcr~inir~ecl
~
at ~I;LICII'the salile level for a mile or more, for a coi~sidcrablc
poriioii of wliicli it was still covcrcd with dcep sllow, '[lirs was
tllawinR rapidly a~icl close to its eclqc 1.u-gc patcl~csol ~ , O I I I I L I
were yellow \vitli a small Alpiile flo~ver. At ilris part of
tlic road we o?-ettoolc mnry people from the Astnr- CJilgit
'
7
fanline re!:ion, carryi~iggrai~lto their liomes. Differing in
physiq ue, language and clothi~lgfrom the people of Kashmir,
they were all clad in grey woole~ihomespun and ware vo~rnd
caps of the same material wliich conld be turned down over
the ears i n cold weather or wind. Not far from tlie road we
e d some thirty vulture;, peat,
passecl a d a d pony s ~ ~ r r o r ~ n dby
slow-n~oving,evil-looki~~g creatures; crows hovered near and
picked up what tlic vult~rresdropped. The summit of the
pass was not far above the tree line; in fact, there were
dwarf fir-s growing almost at the height of tllc highest poinl.
Frorn the pass the road descended rapidly to the ravine
of a snow-fed tributary of the Krishenghnga. The slopes here
gay with .91pinc flowers, which were being eagerly eaten b y
flocks of sheep ancl goats. We so011 again entered a forest
of great trccs, through which here arid thefe avalanches had
torn (1ow11tlic slope and buried tllcniselves in the ravine even
far down the valley. One of these had recc~itly destroyed
a Dak I3ungalow at Gurai, thirteen m'iles fraitl our
startiiig point, alld t'\is ncc s?ated our doing two
stag25 in on.: day. A snow fedstream roared down
througli evcry c!cft in tlie valley wall. Our mad might alrnost
be said to be illuminated by the huge s~iow rnouhhihs
facing us from the north.
About 1 . 30 we reached the tiny village of Kailzelghat
on the Krishenga~iga,a I ~ r c estresm carrying nlaily big pieces of
ti~iiber tliro~~gliits gorges to join the Jhcltrtn at Domel.
After an hour' s rest \vc crossed the stream just above the
village nnd followed upwards its left bank for the test, of
tlic way to G ~ ~ r a i sCielierally
. the valley was a w d e d
gorge; as wc nearcd Gurais it opened out, leaving a wide area for
8
cultivation on the opposite bank of the stream to the road.
Some miles before reacliillg that place therc was a sudden bcnd in
the valley between mighty cliffs. With my suggestions tliat
this place might be named the Gate of Hell atid that a great
mountqin of rock on our left looked as if it wel-e the Great
Wall of Heaven Abdullah professed to be heartily pleased.
We spent the nightat theDak Bungalow; a littlehouse close to the
Krishenganga and surrounded by the greenest of green meadows.
June I!. We started at eight o' clock and followed the
valley of the Krishenganga for the whole day. Not far above
Gurais the road appeared to be blocked by all enornious
rock pyramid, but on reaching it we found tliat the valley
here made a rightangled turn to the north. After an hour's
rest at Peshwari Chowki we continued to Burzliil Dak
Bungalow. It would have been possible to ride the whole
distance but the little ponies of the country, while marvelous
for the manner in which they cross streailis of r ~ ~ s h i water
~ig
or snow cut into humniocks by thaw and then frozen again,
and carry a heavy weight up atid d o w ~the~ stecpcst of slopes,
are wearisome in the extreme to ride in anything like
level country; SQ I did a good part of the day' s march on
foot. Some miles below Burzhil the valley opens out, leaving
a wide rolliiig meadow between the llills mid the stream;
here, at Mia Marg, the Krishenganga is formcd by two streams.
one glacier-fed, the other fed by melting snow. We Followed
the valley of the latter. As we asce~ldedflowers becanxe Inore
and more numerous; sometimes whole hillsides were overgrown
with a tall plant bearing niany yellow flowers upon a
single stalk.
The Burzhil Dak Bungalow is situated at what at this
9
time of year is tlie limit of vegetation. Long before reaching it
we crosscd piitchcs of s~rowlyillg a1110t1g~ncadowscolored white
aild l i i l l l c aritl blue wit11 wild flo~vrrs; the pink flowers in
pal-ticular, a kind of pri~nula,grew so closc together that at
n sliort distance tlic grourlcl ofte~iappeared to be covered
with piilk grass. A short distance above the Bu~lgalow the
t~louiitainswere under deep snow, from which rose groves
of birch as yet showing no sign of life.
Jurie 12. We staided at 3. 20 in thc nlorning in order to
cross tlic pass before the S U I I had begtill to nielt tlle SHOW. As
we left tlic iiloo~l,j u h t past thc full, showed up the distant snow
!~~c;u~~tairis, the forest trees and tlie many torrents wit11 a
char111 wliicll 110 llumal; agency could describe. Our little
cal-avrui was now swolle~ito eight owing to the presence of
a Gilgiti siudcl~tailci his servallt; the student was spending
twcnty four out of his forty two days suninlcr leave in
fravcli~lgto his home and back. We so011 reached the snow
line and :I-o!n that point on we had snow under foot for
l c miles. The ponies, ckver though they were in
s ~ ~ i ten
kccl~ir~g their footiiig on the uneven snow, now frozen hard
as ice, bcgnn to stun~bleso badly that it became necessaly
to dismount and climb for perlizps a tllousand feet on foot
a r ~ dthis at the \vorsL portion of the ascent. The principal
i~lr.idc.ntof tllis part of thc journey was tlic disappearance of
o11c of thc baggage ~oiiieswllicll slipped down hill, burdeli
~ I C !3.11, for about a quarter of a mile. He was not seriously
lies' some 00 fcet tiecp here. At tlie top of the pass, which
we rcaclled at 7 n n ~ , we found aliotl~crt ~ f u g c bungalow;
'
from the facl tliat there was drift srlow soille six fec; deep blown
in tl?i oug-11 tllc half opcn door O I I C can gaess somethir~gof
tile ier;*or of tile blizzai-cis to wl~ish this ~liountairl is liablc.
-Tile view from tile sum~nitwas, ill n sellse, tli~appoi~ltiilg;
we iookcd f u r miles over rollii~gs ~ ~ oliclds,
w intcrsperscd
wit11 a fcw bare roclts, but had I I ~ vrsioii of iniglity
Himalaya11 peaks, sctcli as rniglit have bceli h o p d for
fro111 the height.
It was with a sense of relief that we felt ioul-scl\~s
. .
past tlie ~riost difficult portion of tlic juur~icy to Kashgsr.
We were short of a riding po~iy,-- that was all that we Ilad
suffcrcd. Maily unpleasant things might have happeiicd,
although at this time of year and stl~tingas early as we h i d
done, and with a bright moon, it was i ~ o t 1il;cly 'that thcy
wotlld. After a short rest on the top of tlie pass we co~ii~iieiicctl
the descelit, 1-eacl~ingSaldal- Koti, tlie first Dak Du~igalowon
the other side, less thcn two hours afterwards. After an hour's
rest we continuecl to Chillim Cl~owki, sonic six miles fui-tlicr
down, whicln we reached at noon. Tlic'suii was 11ow
. >
the
LIP, ~and;'mrtiil~&b march. For a mile or so the road
rose, thcn remained at much tlie same levei for some five
miles8.0r.rnore.~while psssing throiigh a forest of great trees;
tlie ground, covered with huge boulciers, was trlsll with
water f ~ o mfrcqrrent s ~ i o wstreams. Aftel- some miles iiiorc
of ascent a!ld ~d~;.'centa drop of 700 feet brought 11s to the
Doi~anDalt 'Bungalow. TI-Ic ni issing bagpage clict ]lot arrive
1111lil m!dbight, at which holrr Abdullah was only restraii~ed
by ~ r n m ~ l e n t - q u t iof
t s insttelltion from givi~igat full length
1.7
the s h y of ills adventures. Suck of ow haggage ref had
beet]. carried by poilies arrived-at n ~ u c htha same (imeas wc
djd. . The third poiiy load hnd been dividedl between dour m t
and it was this baggage which was n~issing.It ,~ppeared;
tlld &
wedeft Dashkin kbclullah waited some tiine ila the hope
that the i*~issitig porlers would arrive. They, clEd 1104 so he
walked back to meet thm,astci, build, *era at 5.30. par;
resting beside their 4urdcn;si h a h g ' .by' tirat time onfgc
acco~l?plisl~edsome seven o u t ' oft the, 24. milps2 frpm
Agtort to Doian. 1 am sorry to ssp fhqt- Abhilat, Wt
'
( Diary, continued
rot away into sand altd shingle ant1 boulders and ilt!si like
the little mountai~lsclustering rot~ncl His foot than givc 111'
over to the village and saw the ierrible gulf whicl~, ~i-it11
its glacier torrent, separates Nngir from Hu!~za. The
grey earth cliffs looked as fragile as if, struck by a tlirow~r
stone, they would crumblc away; tlie gulf y a w ~ ~ e dso vast
that it might, one would tlrink, swallow up ,211 the wick.
27
culfivated lands of Minapin a ~ l dthe abyss would still I-c~nain.
July 25. At daylight , i cli~nbcdfor some 1, 500 feet
or more up the mountai~ldue south of Mi~lapiq irl order
to see the glacier uearest to that place. 1 climbed 011 to
the ~noraine and looked down 011 the glacier;. a niilelong
tongue of ice hidden by stot~csa n d dirt and borJered by
double and even treble inoraines, it may ]lave been inter-
esti~lgto, the student of, physical, grograplly but made no
appeal to the seeker after loveliness.
Some four- miles beyond Minapin we again crossed
the river, +us entering the state of Hunza. This fr,ontier,
like that of s o ,,many other war-torn lands, appearqi to., 411
outsider t o mark, a , , d i s t i a ~ t i owithout
~~ a difference While
ta . a Hunza-lander the native of Nagir may appear all
irreligious person of low morals, irlferior physique, filthy
personal habits,-one whcse yca is not yea nor his nay my-my
friend and I were at a loss to distinguish the one from
the other. I
Second Intermezzo.
Rakapuslii.
a ~ i dPersian.
4 I , , ! ; , . I ~ l l j f r,
As we e~~tereclGalmit I was welcomfd by another
! I ;,'! i 1 1 1 1
I . , I I-'
an orc);ard
*,
we scliled dowll about 1 pm, the b a g w
;
e ' I I
-
0
,
I l ' ~ i l (
I t 1 t i * I
I
J
r I ,
tain mass seenieh t,o have rotted away,till ''only its bones . I !
I I 1 I I I 8 , '
b '
river bed, and strike high ant1 inland. After passi~lgtlie village
' : 1 1 -i: re
deal amolig the rocks and sand and mud which hid the ice.
,, .T ,
s&he Ailes beyond 'we s c ~ thet ponies by a rou~rd about
route while Abdullah and I arid my Chinese friend, who pre-
-* .jl r . r ; ,
crossed the morarnes and the tip of the tongue of another small
. .
glai&. From moraine to rnbraine would have taken Abd~~llah and
. t I , . - . L
plant with tufts of blue flowers; then turned up' hill between
t . !. 8 . t .
&kid
all succeeded in crossing withkit a
kiok& I&; lKiub% '
+ > 3 j f , f t ~ r 4
every one was bleeding from all four hdiks a l 8 my o S n
'Lb> , 'id
horse had a piece of flesh an inch lo11g hangng' fro&' his
.I,!,,!
nose,-tlle result df a 8 1 dri ice cbvkred witti ,mudd add
l--rij
stones. From the top of the left rnoiain'i' &! witched
:v*
-r,,!!: '
Chinese friend a ~ l dthi two men \r;ho had sfayed - b$Kf.h.m:d
- .r,l
to help him crawling-at snail's ?ace in thk Ai8dle 6f iNe
' 3 T r : - I $ . . (
" 5 8 :
' i .*> 41
2 r
on'e lloldi~~g tlie tail, and even so it was touch a&d 'go ih
A>
'
was
s
,'
good, in tlie sense that
s t
I
Beyond Gilcha the road became impassible for ai~~niais
1 I
a~icltook
to the mountain
, . side, rising and falli~lg,but principally rising till
I
it was nearly 500 feet above the stream, backwartls aiid forwards
across which for a couple of miles our poiiics Iiacl to bade wit11
z j \
by Jacobs
I , ! unq
f1l Theophiluc,
., twp kioqy Apglo-lqqkp~ who
I I I , l a ~ v J ,
outside world,-sucv
I ' I
centres
' '
of civilizatjpn , q ,Oil&!, ~r 1. 'I 0
who had ~ i v aa ~
little time,
. to tbq. stuqy I <
I S of,#at tpngue. ,,,
, . . .. . . , , , > . , , #. , ! , .' :,,,,. j
., ,I ...,I!
. '
I!!:!. ;:il,'!!l;
, : : : . . . . ,....
I I
Third.
i : .
intermezzo.
. ,, !
..
j.;rl ,<.!\,.:, ;I*
Karakora~n Speaks.
.,., . , , , ; t ,. : ! 8 : !I , I , : 1 .j!, \;;,jj
R
i
IiS'isI, Karakorain Llib speak: ' o l d so, old, I knpw n t
I
'
. , ,I,IIIO ,
i i d ' ~ [ ~ O ~ ' l t i :
young and 1 was young and she; light of niy so~il,was young.
1 4 I 11' 111 1 ~' \ 8 /:: ft*
46
1 l a v d her and sought to h e onc witti her, bitll liiy
hrliiig 'Himalaya. But G o d said, No!
bki ihy $earning for her increased and so s&tietly d'id slie
lihk i t me-or to\;/ard me, I was never certain w 11icl1--that
every stream that poured from me carried the refrain of my
K'ehrt's love.
In dkfiance sf God's comrnaiid I agai~i sougilt to be
one with h e . ~ o again
d said, No! ant1 warlied me of tlik fate
befoie me if again I disobeyed. And again I disoheyrcl .
Then God in his anger smote me. Year in and year
oiit for a million years, or it'may have been a thousand, or
ten million; all the bolts of his wrath struck me. The
fotesis of gieat trees tliat clothcil me disappeared; some
wkre eaten by fire; s h e perished because rain would not
fill up& me. When they were all dead rain fell day and night
for generations of m e i ~ ,until the soil was washed froin me;
&tia wn'kn eve& the inmost of my rocks was saturated the
rain stopped and cold descended and I thouglit my head would
ffkezze arid I wa's glad. But it froze not, for thaw w~n'eand
my rocks burst and my vitals were exposed. Then it i-ai~~ed
again and then again it froze; and so througli niillio~ls
-of years. And my bdlie's rotted aiid contil~ueto roi and fall
asunder until this day.
Still my yellow rocks, rocks brow11 and wl~ite aiid
gray and black and red, ache in their age-long agolly. Huge
I
6bi1ders balanced ch
iiotI~iliy;suffer for a ~ I ~ O L I S ~ years
I I ~ tile
pain of teiiidie susbehsc.
Turrets and pinnacles ant1 solicl sclunre t ~ \ ~ v ecap
~ ~my
s
,it\'
rnou"tai11 walls; sometimes my su~iimitsare lined with scanty
111 l ,
.
has ther been a litllc life, and from those places the blood
has pout.ed.
Do you see those age-old river banks, tier upon tier . ,
of then1 standing out upon my slopes; hard yellow clay
cliffs and cliffs
,
of boulders and black glacier
,,I ,,,'I
sand and
- 3
, .
.,, .
shingle? A niillion years ago the stuff of which those lilcliffs
I
~ f ~ h a n i s t aliontieis,
n then tUrndd up the valley of the fbrAer.
ShaHI) 5Her fkijtering ' i t we pasifh the Consular Guard
I D
e~dti'' a 'sa~ltation.'
I l l !" ,. - ' , I ' I ,.!I I
I
1
> I , 1: ! \ I f 4 I . I /
wl\ilgl t k ~area
! d;der pastillage appears to llave been extensive
1, ,1 , I " )
undit'd a
, $ I j - 1 ,
and ? ~ ~ I I & Ymikiiig
; us glad"tiiat we had brouklit a tent with
us ' ~ r i j d " l ~ ~ i s thC
~ & ;liarrie ~ u r k u i hsign'ifies
i "kin" in wikhi,
,,; I 1 I 1 , t ! i.1, I I >
so I iuasi'tbld. '
! <1
~ l ~ l $ ' 'eihding
'f.
' * \ I I . 1,';
f i r e ~ ~ to
l l Jacobs we komlnillced the
I 5 1 i
'.I . I
3 '
49 ' FFI! 1;n,
I I ~3 . v 1 b t s 3
not tla~igcrousfor ponies but so roGgh. that . all their hocks star-
. r" . ilt ' 8 , I
the whole valley covererl with rich short grass, bottom and
hill slopes as well, as far down as Yambulaq at airy rate.
The land was swarming with tarbagans whose ..cry"mlght
Ib
be described as being sometimes Oh you, you, you can?
catch me" m d sometimes as just a brief "I see you". A'fter
descending for some miles we passed herds of yaks' ahd
flocks of sheep and goats at graze. Sometimes the genet71
greenness of the landscape was enlivened by patches of
golden flame, the ~ m s s in marshy places being overgrown
with one or other kiild of yellow flower; sucli a spot might
do for a meeting of kiligs, a " ~ i e ! dof the cloth of O010".
After a short day's march we reached' Yambulaq,
where one of eleven Kirghiz tcnts was placed at our- disposal.
Thc structure and contents of this' tent were much 'the kame
as in tlic case of the Tajik tents which we had 'afready
visited, !hougl~ in this case our host was a wealthy man,
dignified with the titlc of Reg, and tlie tent \~liic!ihe placed
i
at our disposal and its lunlish ings were exceptionally -1uxuri6us.
Tlie portion of the lent in which milk was kept \Las
veiled off hy a screen of reeds in 'and out among which *
woo lei^ thread had Fee11 wound: blue .and white' for%&!
62
an attractive design on a backgroulld of red. The tent was
built in the usual way but strengthened by band, of wove11
woolen stuff, 4, 6 or 8 iiiches in width, which were passed
rout~dsome of tlie supports and stretched betwec~? tlieni
and.the felt exterior of wall or ceiling. Some of tlie patterns
of these suggested brocade and were of a quiet, ha~~mo~iious
coloring which was very pleasing.
July 16. We started at 6.30, our liost Ibral~im Beg
kindly sending with us his youngest so11 to help 11s over
the fords. The first ford proved an easy matter. At the
s e c ~ n dford Abdullali crossed first but had to disrnount in
mid-stream as his pony was in danger of being washed
+yay. Both fortunately reached shore i l l safety, but Abdullah's
embroidered .I(anjuti clothes were stained a brilliant
green in consequence of some cheap dyed stuff having been
used for the pockets. The rest of us crossed a short dista~lce
above, q o s t of us on yaks which are surer footed than ponies.
As , i t was we all got a little wet but fortunately the baggage
c ~ o s s e d without
~ serious mishap. A little money would
provide a bridge at this place; n little laboi- would construct
a path round, the face of tlie cliff, thus saving two crossi~igs
of the main stream as well as the crossing of tlie tributary
which comes straight down from Chicliekilik and jc)ins the
Yambulaq stream just below this worst ford; but ~ieeclless
to say the Chinese authorities do notliing.
From Ya~nb~ulaqto Tolbolong the valley desce~ids
rapidly. ,The scenery is in parts very wild, the mo~liitains
risipg precipitously from the narrow strip of green wllicli
borders the tarrent. At Tolbolong there is a considera1)le area
under ,cultivation ,-barley and oats --,and a ~luiiibei.of "white
63
,J
houses as well as one or two shacks exist. At this
place we changed our transport atlimals and turned sharply
up a vallcy etitcritlg ours from the north; the main valley ratr
cast. A rapid ascent took us in two hours to the summit
of the Tijrat Pass. From this pass we should, I tliihk, hdve
hati the fi~lestview of the whole journey, but unfortunatdy
the weatlier was somewhat hazy. An hour's fast walk took
me ft-on1 the summit of the pass to Chir Oun-tbaz, which:
we f o u ~ d deserted. Turning up the valley which' we
struck at this place another three miles brought us ta
Qoi-yoli it1 a side valley rarely, if ever, visited by a Europe-
ati. The Kirglliz womenfolk at this place had ' never even
#
. ,
5 : Pamir.
(Diary, continued).
-tl.lt! and. 'my friends to lie 'upon and eat ' m y garden fruits.
Porebtfiereare 'several. hundred fi.uit trees in my garden,
',arbund+'hndbeyond the willow grove and bounding on all
'%tii"S'ides my.'two fields of lucern,L 1 had all Ijut'fbrgatten
'titem,'t'dhgh they fill an acre or two. 'Then fruits are of so
Ifiany k i n d s and. many of them are so incredibly Itrscious
'that- i f T tried- to describe them or even told yo11 their names
you would think I was' trying to ' sell my garden or proniote
P kompany for fruit*cultiva2ion ati Kashgar. So 1 will only
'Jveak of- one of them, the peach. I have, of course, several
.-kfnds of * peches in my garden, ripening at different seasons,
' ' M ' -!peach ~ I- will' tell you about is the one I now hold
in my hand; just now, this minute, ripe and perfed beyond
' M p a r e : Her cbrnplexion is of a pale and dainty yellow,
?!v
deepening on one cheek- to the, mbst erithahthid of' biriP
blushes. Her skin is so soft,'. so titillat&$' tHat'sf! ha#'
to control my hand which wodltl otHk+wis& crilh' hcf'
ddieate form in a spasm of extasy! Her' o d o i is'jo exGui&''
that my lips quiver with delight and that sicklp fdied'
ovel'pwering lo3e gives me a feeling of' wbkkC$s7in &
whole region from the neck to the a b d o M 1 1 s t i u w - *
against the desire to make myself' on6 with'. her;
and fail. By a touch: of the finget I ask'hkt skin 'tb' remib~k'
itself; it does so, and in two mouthfuls the n h l ) t i 8 l ' ' c d e M ~
is completed. N m t shaW the memo@ of that' d& m d ~ "
fade; even death shall u s not 'pa'tl.
Just for one such~~instant .of bliM a b i t t m e i s t i d ~ d!w'
lightly spent, but in my garden bliss succdd$'bl isgpeach hXb& ''
peach; from dawn to dark. If a t any time tfie joybf too!rnhik''
bliss suggests a change of mistresses, then" there' ate ofti# '
a q , ,q lit#lg,+ u i a l ) ~ ; ~ ; , ~ -mine
an a ~ l dthe garden cliough it
,
h#.!a. p ~ p jgf wakr and , a willow grove, has very few
fr#t-;#r,ecs. !$illi it, i$,a pretty place antl t l ~ crental does not
agpeq,,@orbitant. . ;
' . . But there is one thing which. w,ould makc niy h o ~ ~ s c
<
:Tashqorghan-Kashgar 44
- 140
- .: 184
-
4; Grand Total 194.5 .. 6406
-
., 598.5
-
(According to Indian Government Route Book distances
are as follows: :Murkushi-Mintaka Karaul 29 mi; Paik-Daftur,
K A S H G A H
H U S S
36
' --- -- -, - --
-
..
-
-.
- ----- -
= village or Town
a pass
+ = no permanent settlement
mmtrnrhmt-=======
Scale, 1 inch = 32 miles