This document outlines defect classifications for woven shirts and bottoms by zone. It lists specific sewing, appearance, pressing, and cleanliness defects and classifies them as critical, major, or minor depending on the zone. Major defects include dirt spots, holes, run off stitches over 1/8 inch, skipped stitches, misaligned seams or pockets over 1/8 inch. Critical defects include sharp points or broken needles. The zones and defect classifications provide standards for inspecting and grading garments.
This document outlines defect classifications for woven shirts and bottoms by zone. It lists specific sewing, appearance, pressing, and cleanliness defects and classifies them as critical, major, or minor depending on the zone. Major defects include dirt spots, holes, run off stitches over 1/8 inch, skipped stitches, misaligned seams or pockets over 1/8 inch. Critical defects include sharp points or broken needles. The zones and defect classifications provide standards for inspecting and grading garments.
Original Description:
Session Defect Classification and Rating Areas
Original Title
12. Session Defect Classification and Rating Areas- Garments
This document outlines defect classifications for woven shirts and bottoms by zone. It lists specific sewing, appearance, pressing, and cleanliness defects and classifies them as critical, major, or minor depending on the zone. Major defects include dirt spots, holes, run off stitches over 1/8 inch, skipped stitches, misaligned seams or pockets over 1/8 inch. Critical defects include sharp points or broken needles. The zones and defect classifications provide standards for inspecting and grading garments.
This document outlines defect classifications for woven shirts and bottoms by zone. It lists specific sewing, appearance, pressing, and cleanliness defects and classifies them as critical, major, or minor depending on the zone. Major defects include dirt spots, holes, run off stitches over 1/8 inch, skipped stitches, misaligned seams or pockets over 1/8 inch. Critical defects include sharp points or broken needles. The zones and defect classifications provide standards for inspecting and grading garments.
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Garment Zone –Wise Defect Classification
ITC Quality Manual
March ‘99 ITC’s Classification of Critical, Major and Minor Defects Woven Shirts Appearance, Colour and Fabric[Defect by Zone] Defect Zone A Zone B 1. Dirt Spot Major Major 2. Shaded Parts Major Major 3. Shading between Garments Major Major 4. Holes of any Size repaired or not Major Major Sewing [Seams and Stitches Defects by Zone] Defect Zone A Zone B 1. Run off Stitches upto 1/8” Major Minor 2. Run off Stitches over 1/8” Major Major 3. One or More Skip Stitch on a Chain Stitch Major Major 4. More than One Skip Stitch on a Lock Stitch Major Major 5. Stitching Margin Variation Needle to Edge over 1/16” Major Minor 6. Any Exposed Stitch or Underpart Major Minor 7. Blindstitch Bite Too Deep - Major 8. Stitchcount Variation over +2 or -1 per inch Major Major 9. Tight Stitch, Thread Tension Major Major 10. Raw Edge, Open Seam, Lose Seam or Fraying Major Major 11. Uneven Front Placket >1/8” at Bottom Major - 12. Incorrect Placket Width 1/8” or Less Major Minor 13. Uneven High-Low Pockets [2 Shirt Pocket] of Pocket Flaps more than 1/4” in relation to each other Major Major 14. Mismatch Pockets Plaid Match over 1/8” Major 15. Uneven Collar Points over 1/8” Major 16. Collar Overlap when Buttoned Major 17. Incorrect Size Buttonhole Major Major 18. Buttonholes Non reparable, Anchored Threads or Broken Stitches Major Major 19. Incorrect Buttons Major Major 20. Missing Buttons Major Major 21. Buttons Out of Line on Top Center 1/8” Tolerance Major
ITC Quality Manual
March ‘99 22. Four Hole Button Sewn in Two Eyes or Upside Down Major Major 23. Buttons Not Securely Sewn Major Major 24. Sewn In Pleats on Outside Major Major 25. Uneven Pleating Shirring or Poor Sewn Pleats Major Major 26. Mismatch Plaid/Stripe upto 1/8” Major Minor 27. Mismatch Plaid/Stripe over 1/8” Major Major 28. Improper Interlining, Excessive Fullness of Parts Major Major 29. Interlining Twisted or Garment Part Twisted Major Major 30. Bubble Formation at Collars Due to Improper Fusing of Interlining Major Major 31. Needle Chews Upto One per inch Major Major 32. Incorrect Thread or Accessories Major Major 33. Sharp Point/Edges on Hardware or Broken Needles Critical Critical Pressing [Defect by Zone] Defect Zone A Zone B 1. Permanent Crease Major Major 2. Pressing Not as Specified Major Major 3. Burn Marks, Scorch Marks, Pressure Marks Major Major Cleanliness [Defect by Zone] Defect Zone A Zone B 1. Attached Sewing Threads upto 1/4” Major Minor 2. Attached Sewing Threads over 1/4” Major Major 3. Attached Threads Over 1/2” Inside Garment Major Major 4. Sewn-In Waste or Thread Major Major 5. Stain, Soil under 1/8” Major Minor 6. Stain, Soil over 1/8” Major Major 7. Ring from Cleaning Gun or Rubbed Spots Major Major 8. Drill Hole or Pencil Mark Visible Major Major 9. Needle Chews or Feed Dog Abrasion Major Major 10. Component Parts not Securely Tacked Major Major 11. Mildew or Heavily Odoured Garments Major Major Packing/Finishing Defects Defects 1. Improper Placement of Main, Size and Wash Care Label Major Major
ITC Quality Manual
March ‘99 2. Extra Buttons Not Present Major Major 3. Garment Fold not as Specified Major Major 4. Hangtags Missing Major Major 5. Incorrect Size Labels Major Major
ITC Quality Manual
March ‘99 ITC’s Classification of Critical, Major and Minor Defects Woven Bottoms
Appearance, Colour and Fabric[Defect by Zone]
Defect Zone A Zone B 1. Dirt Spot Major Major 2. Shaded Parts Major Major 3. Shading between Garments Major Major 4. Holes of any Size repaired or not Major Major Sewing [Seams and Stitches Defects by Zone] Defect Zone A Zone B 1. Run off Stitches upto 1/8” on Outside Major Minor 2. Run off Stitches over 1/8” Major Major 3. Run off Stitches < or = 1/4” on Inside Minor Minor 4. Run off Stitches > 1/4” on Inside Major Major 5. One or More Skip Stitch on a Chain Stitch Major Major 6. More than One Skip Stitch on a Lock Stitch Major Major 7. One Skip Stitch on a Lock Stitch Minor Minor 8. Incorrect Stitch Type Major Major 9. Stitching Margin Variation Needle to Edge over 1/8” Major Minor 10. Any Exposed Stitch or Underpart Major Minor 11. Blindstitch Bite Too Deep - Major 12. Stitchcount Variation over +2 or -1 per inch Major Major 13. Tight Stitch, Thread Tension Major Major 14. Raw Edge, Open Seam, Lose Seam or Fraying Major Major 15. High/Low pocket Placement > + or - 1/8” Major Major 16. Lips or Creases on Front Pocket Major 17. Exposed White Pocket Bag Major 18. Wavy or Malfunctioning Zipper Major 19. Uneven Yoke Seam [feed back Seam] < or = 1/4” Minor 20. Uneven Yoke Seam [feed back Seam] > 1/4” Major
ITC Quality Manual
March ‘99 21. Uneven Yoke Seam [Safety Stitch back Seam] < or = 1/8” Minor 22. Uneven Yoke Seam [Safety Stitch back Seam] > 1/8” Major 23. Misaligned Fell seams over width of Topstitch Major Major 24. Uneven Pleating Shirring or Poor Sewn Pleats Major Major 25. Sewn in Pleat Inside< or = 1/4” Minor 26. Sewn in Pleat Inside > 1/4” Major Major 27. Uneven or Misplaced Darts over 1/8” Major 28. Waistband Width at ends [Front or Back] + or - 1/4” Major 29. Alignment of Waistband over 1/8” Major Major 30. Uneven Belt Loop Placement over 1/4” Major 31. Belt Loop Missing or Slanting more than 1/8” Major 32. Uneven hem Width > + or - 1/8” each side Major 33. Uneven Hem Front to Back > 1/4” Major 34. Incorrect or Missing Bartack Major Major 35. Buttonholes with Irreparable or Broken Threads Major Major 36. Misplaced Button, Buttonhole or Hook and Eye over 1/8” Major Major 37. Missing Button or Rivet Major Major 38. Severe Puckering and Badly Roped Hems Major Major 39. Improper lining, Excessive Fullness of Parts Major Major 40. Interlining or Garment Part Twisted Major Major 41. Crows Feet Major Major 42. Sharp Point/Edges on Hardware or Broken Needles Critical Critical Pressing [Defect by Zone] Defect Zone A Zone B 1. Permanent Crease Major Major 2. Poor Press Major Minor 3. Burn Marks, Scorch Marks, Pressure Marks Major Major Cleanliness [Defect by Zone] Defect Zone A Zone B 1. One or more Sewing threads < or = ¼” on Outside Minor Minor 2. One or more Sewing threads > or = ¼” on Outside Major Major 3. Thread Cluster on Inside Major Major 4. More than Four Threads > ½” or One or More Threads >1” on Inside Major Major
ITC Quality Manual
March ‘99 5. Stain, Soil under 1/8” TO DO Major Minor 6. Stain, Soil over 1/8” Major Major 7. Ring from Cleaning Gun or Rubbed Spots Major Major 8. Drill Hole or Pencil Mark Visible Major Major 9. Needle Chews or Feed Dog Abrasion Major Major 10. Component Parts not Securely Tacked Major Major 11. Mildew or Heavily Odoured Garments Major Major Packing/Finishing Defects Defects 1. Improper Placement of Main, Size and Wash Care Label Major Major 2. Extra Buttons Not Present Major Major 3. Garment Fold not as Specified Major Major 4. Hangtags Missing Major Major 5. Incorrect Size Labels Major Major
ITC Quality Manual
March ‘99 ITC’s Classification of Critical, Major and Minor Visual Defects Knit Tops Appearance, Colour and Fabric[Defect by Zone] Defect Zone A Zone B 1. Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot Major Major 2. Shaded Parts Major Major 3. Dye Misprints, Dye Smear Major Major 4. Obvious Foreign or Colour Yarn Major Major 5. Not Obvious Foreign or Colour Yarn Major Minor 6. Poor Matching of Colour or Print Patterns Major Major 7. Texture Change Major Major 8. Shading Between Garments Major Major Fabric (Defect by Zone) Defect Zone A Zone B 1. Slubs ad Misweaves upto 1/8” Major Minor 2. Holes of any Size Repaired or not Major Major 3. Standard weight exceeding Tolerance Major 4. Drop Stitch, Mend, Broken Stitch, End Down, Bent Needle, Needle Line Major Major 5. Dye Discoloration, Streaks, Blotches, Print out of Register Major Major 6. Bow or Bias fabric over 1” side to side Major Major Sewing [Seams and Stitches Defects by Zone] Defect Zone A Zone B 1. Run off Stitches upto 1/8” Major Minor 2. Run off Stitches over 1/8” Major Major 3. One or More Skip Stitch on any stitch type Major Major 4. Incorrect Stitch Type Major Major 5. Stitching Margin Variation Needle to Edge over 1/8” Major Minor 6. Any Exposed Stitch or Underpart Major Minor 7. Blindstitch Bite Too Deep - Major 8. Stitchcount Variation over +2 or -1 per inch Major Major 9. Tight Stitch, Thread Tension Major Major
ITC Quality Manual
March ‘99 10. Raw Edge, Open Seam, Lose Seam or Fraying Major Major 11. Misaligned front back over 1/8” Major Major 12. Incorrect Placket width upto 1/8” Major Major 13. Incorrect Placket width over 1/8” Major Major 14. Mismatch Pockets, 4-way plaid match over 1/8” Major Major 15. Uneven collar points over 1/8” Major 16. Collar Overlap when Buttoned Major 17. Incorrect Size Buttonhole Major Major 18. Buttonholes Non-reparable, Anchored Threads or Broken Stitches Major Major 19. Incorrect Buttons Major Major 20. Missing Buttons Major Major 21. Buttons Out of Line on Top Center 1/8” Tolerance Major 22. Four Hole Button Sewn in Two Eyes or Upside Down Major Major 23. Buttons Not Securely Sewn Major Major 24. Sewn In Pleats on Outside Major Major 25. Uneven Pleating Shirring or Poor Sewn Pleats Major Major 26. Mismatch Plaid/Stripe upto 1/8” Major Minor 27. Mismatch Plaid/Stripe over 1/8” Major Major 28. Improper Interlining, Excessive Fullness of Parts Major Major 29. Interlining Twisted or Garment Part Twisted Major Major 30. Crows feet Major Major 31. Needle Chews Upto One per inch Major Major 32. Incorrect Thread or Accessories Major Major 33. Severe Puckering and Badly Roped Hems Major Major 34. Incorrect or missing Bartack Major Major 35. Uneven hem > ½” each side Major Major 36. Sharp Point/Edges on Hardware or Broken Needles Critical Critical Pressing [Defect by Zone] Defect Zone A Zone B 1. Permanent Crease Major Major 2. Poor Press Major Minor 3. Burn Marks, Scorch Marks, Pressure Marks Major Major Cleanliness [Defect by Zone]
ITC Quality Manual
March ‘99 Defect Zone A Zone B 1. Attached threads upto ¼” Major Minor 2. Attached threads over ¼” Major Major 3. Attached threads over ½” inside of garment Major Major 4. Sewn in waste or thread on outside Major Major 5. Stain, Soil under 1/8” Major Minor 6. Stain, Soil over 1/8” Major Major 7. Ring from Cleaning Gun or Rubbed Spots over ¼” Major Major 8. Drill Hole or Pencil Mark Visible Major Major 9. Needle Chews or Feed Dog Abrasion Major Major 10. Component Parts not Securely Tacked Major Major 11. Mildew or Heavily Odoured Garments Major Major 12. Nap up/down, shaded parts Major Major 13. Pile direction not as specified Major Major Packing/Finishing Defects Defects 1. Improper Placement of Main, Size and Wash Care Label Major Major 2. Extra Buttons Not Present Major Major 3. Garment Fold not as Specified Major Major 4. Hangtags Missing Major Major 5. Incorrect Size Labels Major Major
ITC Quality Manual
March ‘99 ITC’s Classification of Critical, Major and Minor Defects Sweaters Appearance and Colour [Defect by Zone] Defect Zone A Zone B 1. Uneven dye,Dirt Spot Major Major 2. Dye Misprint, Dye Smear Major Major 3. Shaded Parts Major Major 4. Poor match of colour Major Major 5. Light Soil, Foreign Yarn, Visible Oil Stains Major Major 6. Texture Changed Major Major 7. Obvious Foreign or Coloured yarn Major Major 8. Not obvious Foreign or Coloured Yarn Major Major 9. Shading Between Garments Major Major Knitting Components [Defect By Zone] 1. Slubs and Misweaves Major Major 2. Slubs larger than Loop Major Major 3. Barre, bent Needle Slubs upto size of loop Major Major 4. Hole, Dropped Stitch Not Repaired Major Major 5. Slightly Improper Repair Major Minor 6. Any Pattern Error Major Major 7. Biased Pattern ½” Side to Side Major Major Linking, Sewing [Seams and Stitches Defects by Zone] Defect Zone A Zone B 1. One or More Skip Stitch on a Chain Stitch Major Major 2. Tight Stitch, Thread Tension Major Major 3. Raw Edge, Open Seam, Lose Seam or Fraying Major Major 4. Uneven Front Placket >1/8” at Bottom Major - 5. Incorrect Size Buttonhole Major Major 6. Buttonholes Non-reparable, Anchored Threads or Broken Stitches Major Major 7. Incorrect Buttons Major Major 8. Missing Buttons Major Major
ITC Quality Manual
March ‘99 9. Buttons Not Securely Sewn Major Major 10. Incorrect Thread or Accessories Major Major 11. Needle Perforation Major Major 12. Misaligned inserts, Pockets, Gussets over 1/8” Major Major 13. Loose elastic Tension at bottom Major Major 14. Buttonholes with broken stitches Major Major 15. Misplaced Button over ¼” Major Major 16. Mismatch Stripes Sideseam upto ¼” (Plackets over ¼”) Major Major 17. Standard weight per garment out of tolerance Major 18. Sharp Point/Edges on Hardware or Broken Needles Critical Critical Pressing [Defect by Zone] Defect Zone A Zone B 1. Permanent Crease Major Major 2. Pressing Not as Specified Major Major 3. Burn Marks, Scorch Marks, Pressure Marks Major Major Cleanliness [Defect by Zone] Defect Zone A Zone B 1. Attached linking threads over ¼” Major Major 2. Attached threads over 2” inside of garment Major 3. Knot yarn ends upto ¼” Major Minor 4. Knot yarn ends over ¼” Major Major 5. Pull Loop snags Major Minor 6. Stain, Soil under 1/8” Major Major 7. Stain, Soil over 1/8” Major Major 8. Ring from Cleaning Gun or Rubbed Spots Major Major 9. Component Parts not Securely Tacked Major Major 10. Mildew or Heavily Odoured Garments Major Major 11. Pattern and garment asymmetric not more than 1” Major Major 12. Shape not as specified Major Major Packing/Finishing Defects Defects 1. Improper Placement of Main, Size and Wash Care Label Major Major 2. Extra Buttons Not Present Major Major
ITC Quality Manual
March ‘99 3. Garment Fold not as Specified Major Major 4. Hangtags Missing Major Major 5. Incorrect Size Labels Major Major
ITC Quality Manual
March ‘99 ITC’s Classification of Critical, Major and Minor Visual Defects Woven and Knit Jackets
Appearance, Colour and Fabric[Defect by Zone]
Defect Zone A Zone B 1. Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot, Streak Major Major 2. Shaded Parts Major Major 3. Dye Misprints, Dye Smear Major Major 4. Obvious Foreign or Colour Yarn Major Major 5. Not Obvious Foreign or Colour Yarn Major Minor 6. Poor Matching of Colour or Print Patterns Major Major 7. Texture Change Major Major 8. Shading Between Garments Major Major Fabric (Defect by Zone) Defect Zone A Zone B 1. Slubs ad Misweaves upto 1/8”, Clearly contrasted dye smear Major Minor 2. Slubs and Misweaves over ¼” Major Major 3. Holes of any size, repaired or not, needle cut, tear Major Major 4. Fabric not as specified Major Major 5. Barre, Bent Needle Slubs upto size of Loop Major Minor 6. Improper Repairs Major Minor 7. Any Pattern Errors Major Major Sewing [Seams and Stitches Defects by Zone] Defect Zone A Zone B 1. Run off Stitches upto 1/8” Major Minor 2. Run off Stitches over 1/8” Major Major 3. One or More Skip Stitch on any stitch type Major Major 4. Incorrect Stitch Type Major Major 5. Stitching Margin Variation Needle to Edge over 1/8” Major Minor 6. Any Exposed Stitch or Underpart Major Minor 7. Blindstitch Bite Too Deep - Major
ITC Quality Manual
March ‘99 8. Stitchcount Variation over +2 or -1 per inch Major Major 9. Tight Stitch, Thread Tension Major Major 10. Raw Edge, Open Seam, Lose Seam or Fraying Major Major 11. Misaligned Front/Back over 1/8” Major Major 12. Incorrect Placket Width upto 1/8” Major Major 13. Incorrect Placket Width over 1/8” Major Major 14. Mismatch Pockets, 4-way plaid match over 1/16” Major Major 15. Uneven collar points over 1/8” Major 16. Collar Overlap when Buttoned Major 17. Incorrect Size Buttonhole Major Major 18. Buttonholes Non reparable, Anchored Threads or Broken Stitches Major Major 19. Incorrect Buttons Major Major 20. Missing Buttons Major Major 21. Buttons Out of Line on Top Center 1/8” Tolerance Major 22. Four Hole Button Sewn in Two Eyes or Upside Down Major Major 23. Buttons Not Securely Sewn Major Major 24. Sewn In Pleats on Outside Major Major 25. Uneven Pleating Shirring or Poor Sewn Pleats Major Major 26. Mismatch Plaid/Stripe upto 1/8” Major Minor 27. Mismatch Plaid/Stripe over 1/8” Major Major 28. Improper Interlining, Excessive Fullness of Parts Major Major 29. Interlining Twisted or Garment Part Twisted Major Major 30. Needle Chews Upto One per inch Major Major 31. Incorrect Thread or Accessories Major Major 32. Severe Puckering and Badly Roped Hems Major Major 33. Incorrect or missing bartack Major Major 34. Malfunctioning, Wavy or Incorrect Zipper Major Major 35. Misplaced Buttonhole or Hook and Eye over 1/8” Major Major 36. Misplaced Button over 1/8” or Missing Button Major Major 37. Misplaced Rivet over 1/8” or Missing Rivet Major Major 38. Crow’s Feet Major Major 39. Sharp Point/Edges on Hardware or Broken Needles Critical Critical
ITC Quality Manual
March ‘99 Pressing [Defect by Zone] Defect Zone A Zone B 1. Permanent Crease Major Major 2. Poor Press Major Minor 3. Burn Marks, Scorch Marks, Pressure Marks Major Major Cleanliness [Defect by Zone] Defect Zone A Zone B 1. Attached threads upto ¼” Major Minor 2. Attached threads over ¼” Major Major 3. Attached threads over ½” inside of garment Major Major 4. Sewn in waste or thread on outside Major Major 5. Stain, Soil under 1/8” Major Minor 6. Stain, Soil over 1/8” Major Major 7. Ring from Cleaning Gun or Rubbed Spots over ¼” Major Major 8. Drill Hole or Pencil Mark Visible Major Major 9. Needle Chews or Feed Dog Abrasion Major Major 10. Component Parts not Securely Tacked Major Major 11. Mildew or Heavily Odoured Garments Major Major 12. Nap up/down, shaded parts Major Major 13. Pile direction not as specified Major Major Packing/Finishing Defects Defects 1. Improper Placement of Main, Size and Wash Care Label Major Major 2. Extra Buttons Not Present Major Major 3. Garment Fold not as Specified Major Major 4. Hangtags Missing Major Major 5. Incorrect Size Labels Major Major