7/22/2016 TEXTILE WORLDS: GREY GSM VS FINISHED GSM

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TEXTILE WORLDS
Friday, September 4, 2015

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GREY GSM VS FINISHED GSM
► 2016 (3)
Grey GSM VS Finished GSM of knit fabric
▼ 2015 (41) Learn Apparel Merchandising, Learn Fashion design.
► After receiving the yarn we knit the yarn in knitting machine for producing knit fabric. At
October this stage the fabric remains uncolored formed. We called this as Grey Fabric. Then we
(1) dye the grey fabric in dyeing winch (machine) as per our required color. Raihan Anwar
Follow 8
▼ In this regards the please note that, GSM of the followings Grey fabric are not remain
Septem same as our require finished fabric GSM. Normally the GSM of grey fabric remains View my complete
ber (35) profile
lower than the finished fabric. After knitting when we dye and washed the fabric then the
Defini GSM increase and come to near as our requirement. This increasement of GSM
tio depends on fabric constructions & some knitting variables. Let's see an example
n
an Say,
d Fabric Construction: Single Jersey
Ty Yarn Count : 30/s
pe
Require GSM(finished): 145 GSM
s
of Grey GSM : will be what?
Kni
tte As per practical experience we know for Single Jersey fabric, if we knit the fabric with
d 30/s yarn then the grey GSM will increase 15% to 20% after dyeing and finishing.
Fa
bri So, if we need 145 GSM S/J fabric with 30/s
cs Then we should keep the
Pr
od Grey GSM = 145 – (15 to 20%), supposed it the percentage will be 18 then
uc Grey GSM = 145 – 18%
ed Grey GSM = 119 GSM
i...
So, now we know that, if we need 145 gsm single jersey fabric with 30/s yarn, then we
COT should keep the GSM of grey fabric as 119.
TO
N Please find below the GSM different between Grey VS Finished for some more types of
LY
fabric.
CR
A®
For single jersey fabric:
COT
TO If the yarn count is 30/s then the grey gsm will be 20% to 15% less from the finished
N Gsm
TE
RR If the yarn count is 26/s then the grey gsm will be 22% to 20% less from the finished
Y Gsm
FA
BR If the yarn count is 24/s then the grey gsm will be 24% to 23% less from the finished
IC Gsm
INF
OR If the yarn count is 20/s then the grey gsm will be 24% to 21% less from the finished
MA Gsm
TI
CALCULATION OF GSM
ON
Learn Apparel Merchandising, Learn Fashion design.
COT Dear All,
TO
N GSM means the weight in gram per square meter of fabric.GSM is a very important
JE parameter for specified a certain quality of knitted fabric. The production of knitted fabric
RS is calculated in weight. The GSM cutter is very popular and easy usable GSM testing
EY instrument used in most knitted factory. But the construction of this cutter is very
FA
simple. It is circular disk of 100 square cm area with sharp blade attached to its edge.
BR
IC So 100 square cm of fabric can easily cut by it and weighted at the electric balance to
INF get GSM reading.

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7/22/2016 TEXTILE WORLDS: GREY GSM VS FINISHED GSM
OR There are two formulas for calculating the GSM of a knitted fabric
MA
TI First formula is as under:
ON
Course per inch X Stitch length X 39.37 X 39.37 X Tex
COT GSM = ----------------------------------------------------------------------
TO
1000 X 1000
N
MU aNd
SLI
N WPI X CPI X SL(mm)
FA
GSM = ---------------------- X 0.9155
BR
IC Count(Ne)
INF
CALCULATION OF WALES PER INCH (WPI):
OR
MA
We calculated the number of Wales in 10 inch fabric unraveling the yarn. Then we divide
TI
ON the no of total Wales by 10 inch to getting the Wales per inch.

COT CALCULATION OF COURSE PER INCH (CPI):

TO
N We calculated the number of course in five inch with the help of counting glass and
FA needle. Then we divide the total no of course by five inch to getting the course per inch.
BR
IC MEASUREMENT OF STITCH LENGTH (SL mm):
INF
OR Stitch length is theoretically a single length of yarn which includes one needle loop and
MA adjacent needle loops on either side of it. Loop exits in course in course length and it is
TI that which influence fabric dimension and other properties including weight.
ON
In order to determine the stitch length, we count 100 no Wales or stitch and count its
Class
length by hanging the yarn on the stitch counter. The reading is found in mm unit.
ific
ati MEASUREMENT OF YARN COUNT:
on
of We have fallowed a different way to find out the count of the yarn. At first we unravel a
Te
considerable no yarn from the fabric. Then we measured the total length of the yarn and
xtil
e measured the weight of that no of yarn. From these weights, we find out the count of
Fib the yarn.
er :
The equation we followed is as follow:
NAM
E N x L x 453.6
OF Count = ----------------
KNI Wt x 36 x 840
TT Where,
ED
FA N = number of yarn in bundle.
BR L = length of yarn.
IC
Wt = weight of yarn.
AN
D Another formula is the following:
AP
PE Ks x Tex
AR
GSM = ---------------------
AN
CE Stitch length (mm)
IM
Where,
AG
E Ks is a constant. Its value is different for different fabric structure and fabric type. Ks is
calculated and estimated as below:
SILK
FA GSM x Stitch length
BR Ks = -----------------------------
IC Tex
INF
OR How do calculate Kg from Yards (Knit fabric)
MA Learn Apparel Merchandising, Learn Fashion design.
TI
ON From this post we will learn how to calculate Kgs from Yards.
VELV
ET Say,
FA
Fabric length - 3.3611 yards ( 121 ")
BR
IC Fabric Width - 45 "
Fabric Gsm - 140
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7/22/2016 TEXTILE WORLDS: GREY GSM VS FINISHED GSM
INF Rules:
OR
MA = Fabric length X Fabric width X GSM / 1550 / 1000
TI
ON = 121" X 45" X 140 /1550 / 1000

VEL = 762300 /1550 /1000

OU
R = 0.49180645161 kgs (weight of the followings fabric)
FA
BR Hope above information will help you
IC
INF
Posted by Raihan Anwar at 11:52 PM
OR
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TI
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