Monyul

CHAPTER ONE

Arunachal Pradesh

India is an unique example of unity in diversity and Arunachal Pradesh itself is a storehouse of diversities. It consist of twenty four main tribes and about one hundred and two other sub-tribes with their own culture, language, dress and customs. Combined with these are the scenic beauty, different atmosphere, forestry and a variety of wild life. This land which is widely different from the rest of India, is certainly a place for anthropologists.

Situated in the north-east India, its snow clad mountains receive the first sun ray of the day hence is rightly called Arunachal Pradesh. Four big rivers-Kameng, Subansiri, Siang (Brahmaputra), Lohit rise from the Himalayan range and after passing through dense forests, pastures and habitats merges with Brahmputra in plains of Assam.

Arunachal Pradesh has an area of 3,570 Sq Km with 6,28,050 population according to 1981 census. On 20 january 1972 it was made union Territory from North-East frontier agency (NEFA). And hence forth a number of administrative reforms were made. The agency council of NEFA was changed to Pradesh council and its chief administrator who was also Adviser to the Governor of Assam was redisgnated as chief commissioner. In 1975 according to the 37th amendment of the constitution, this union territory was allowed to elect its own legislature and ministry. The chief commissioner became the Lt. Governor. Sri Raja whose contributions towards the developments of this region are many, was made the first Lt. Governor of Arunachal Pradesh.

Pradesh council was made into ad-hoc legislative assembly and its councilors and members were made into ad-hoc ministers and legislative member. Sri Pema Khandu Thungon, a councilor from kameng district became the first Chief minister. The administrative centre which upto 1974 was in shillong, was shifted to Naharlagun, a temproy base and the task of building a permanent capital at Itanagar, ten Kms. ahead of Naharlagun started.

On 20 February 1987 the fifteen year old U.T. was accorded the status of a full fledged state in a grand ceremony by the then Prime minister Sri Rajiv Gandhi.

Till recently transport and communication facilities being non- descript and antiquated as well as to a lesser extent due to the inner line permit inforce, the state was less known than the rest of the country. But with the construction of good all weather roads and the advent of the state transport corporation buses plying on these roads these facilites have improved considerably though the inner line permit still exists in a much more relaxed way. And can be obtained without much hassle from the liaison officers at Delhi, Kolkata, Guahati, Mohanbari, Tezpur, Itanagar and Lilabari.

Prior to its being declared an U.T. NEFA had five frontier divisions kameng, Subansiri, Siang, Lohit and Tirap. Arunchal Pradesh now has eleven districts. Moving from west to east these districts with their headquarters are Tawang HQ Tawang, West Kameng Bombila, East Kameng -Seppa, Lower subansiri - Zero, Upper Subansiri-Daporijo, West siang-Along, East siang- Pasighat, Dibang- Anini, Lohit-TEZU, Tirap- Khonsa and Changlang.

The Northern borders of Kameng division starts from Indo- Tibbet-Bhutan trijunaction (alt-17243') and runs eastward over the Thangla mountain ranges (alt-13263'-17059') and crosses the Namjangchu near Khinjemane. Still continuing its run towards east it hinges atop the Thongdrong and Jangla, ridges moving south up to Chemo-karpo La, Karsang La, and Duire. From Duire it straightens out to east passing over Bum La, touches Nakchutpa mountain profile and bends to North-east crossing Tsona chu, DarkoRong, and then passes over Thangla and Shya La directly to the east.

Moving further unceasingly it crosses Gonkhar La in the north-east direction and Thulung La, in the north (alt. -19431') Khang La I (alt. 19350') Khang La -II (20659) Cherong La (21027') respectively in the east and then moves over the highest peaks in kameng- Gorichen(24450') Kongto (23260'), Nyethi Khangsang (23120') and ends at spot height 20950'.

The eastern boundary between kameng and Suabansiri division start from peak 20950 ft in the North to south-east over triangular heights 11320' and straight to south over unnamed mountain ranges making watersheds up to trig height 7200'. It takes a turn to east to the height of 7590' and then turn sharply to west over trig height 7290' and 6980'. From here the boundary line goes straight to south and ends in the foothills in Assam at Bhinari at the innerline limit.

The southern boundary starts from Bhinari and goes through Seijusa, Bhaluk pong, kamengabari and ends at Bhairav kund. The western side is the international boundary with Bhutan.

It starts from Bhairav kund in the south and follows the mountain ridges to north over triangular heights 7094', Nyerpa Gyamtsola 10020', Mesagoang, Dangeng La, Tasang che and joins Japtan Ree. Along the Japtan Ree the line goes to east upto the conflunence of Phutan Ree. From here the boundary runs to North-west over Water-sheds, mountain ridges, pastures to Baggajhang 14600'. From Bagga-Jhang to west over Neyensang La, Gotpi, Pun-sum, Chang-chongma to North Kharung che, After touching kharungche the line again goes to west over village Bongleng and dips to Tawang chu near Dongshing mang.

From the confluence of Tawangchu and Worong chu the boundry line goes to North-West towards Jangphu, Brohang La 11552, Mirgu La 12723', Jongping La 13000, Khaktang La 14000, Markang La 14000, Lumpu La, Sumdo La and joins at the trijunction of India Bhutan and Tibbet.

The habitation in Kameng is mostly in the villages. The monpa inhabitants of Tawang chu and Namjang chu valleys are called Brahmi and of Dirang and Nargon chu valley Tsangle. The people of Bichom River valley are Miji and Akas, The Sherdukpen and Buguns inhabitate the Tenga River valley. In east kameng in the main valley of kameng River and its tributaries Bangnee and Sulungs live. Brahmi, Tsangle and sherdukpen are Budhist while there is a superficial influence of Budhism and vaishnvism of Assam on Aka, Miji and Buguns. Mainly they are worshippers of Nature. The Bangnee and Sulungs are animists.

As per 1981 census the population of Dirang Monpa is 10,062 Tawang Monpa 18,662 Kalaktang Monpa- 2100, sherdukpen 2007, Aka-2301, Miji -2602, and Buguns-493. The population of Bangnee and Sulungs as per 1971 census is 24471 and 2808 respectively.

CHAPTER TWO

Blue Hills

Kameng district is bounded by Bhutan in the west, Subansiri in the East, Tibet in the North and Assam in the South. Nearest railway station to this place are Rangapara north and Tezpur. Sixty Kms from Tezpur is Bhalukpong from where the Inner line starts. A new railway line is being constructed from Rangapara north to Bhalukpong. The sixty kms long road lies in the plains of Assam, and passes through dens forests of sal, along the Bharali (Kameng) river. From Bhalukpong, which is at a height of 213 meters, a 100 Kms long road goes to Bomdila, through hilly terrain and verdant forest. It reaches Nechiphu also called zero point, at a height of 1708 meters. Seppa, the district headquarters of East Kameng is situated at 99 Kms from Nechiphu.

An old folk lore of Bhalukpong goes to say that after Banasur and his sons were killed by Lord Krishna in a war their grandson, Bhaluk had taken refuge here. Bhaluk performed a big yajna over here to please the gods. The burnt rice in this yajna is still to be seen after extracting it from the ground 3 kms of Bhalukpong. Banasur has his capital at Soniptpur (Tezpur) on the hills of Agnigarh, beside the Brahmputra. It was here, where Usha, had kept Anirudh as her captive.

In Bhalukpong, beside the road there is a small pond and a small clump of yellow bamboos. This is a sacred place for the Aka tribes. Six kms from Bhalukpong, at Tippi, an orchidarium is established by the forest department, which is worth visiting. This is at a height of 1113 ft. Here 500 varieties of orchid, of the North East region are kept. Close to it, beside the kameng river is the forest departments Rest house.

From Bhalukpong upto NechiPhu there was no population. For twelve kms from Bhalukpong, the road goes along the kameng river and then the ascend on the hill starts. After crossing the height of 1708 Mtr at Nechi-phu, the road again descends to a small camp called Jamiri. All these region belongs to Aaka tribe. After jamiri, the road goes along the Tenga river called Diying Kho for 38 Kms and reaches Dahung and Tenga Bazar. Six Kms from Tenga bazaar the road bifurcates to the left for Rupa. The right hand side road goes to Bomdila. From here the 12Kms long ascend to Bomdila starts.

After 6Kms from jamiri, area of the Bugun (khawa) tribes starts. Dahung, Tenga Bazar area, which ones belonged to Bugun village Sinchung, is now occupied by military camp. Local name for Tenga is Jalyap, and for Tenga river is Giding kho. At the confluence of Dukhang Nala and Tenga river, the region of Bugun tribe ends. From here the western and southern area belongs to sherdukpen tribes and the north-east region is clained by the Bugun's.

Bomdila was established in 1952 as the headquarter of Kameng by the then political officer, Shri Ralengnau Khating M.C., M.B.E. of Indian Frontier Administrative Service. From 1965 to 1967, I had the opportunity of serving under shri Khating. In one of our informal talks, Shri Khating had mentioned that upto 1951 the kamenga frontier was governed from Charduar in Assam. After being appointed as Assistant political officer of Tawang, he was on the look out for a place from where the kameng frontier Division could be better administered. In those days, one had to walk from Charduar, Missamari, Foot hills, Doimara, Chaku, Pirila, Jabrang and Rupa to reach this place.

On the way from Rupa to Bomdila, one had to cross two small hills and then walk up along the stream that came down from Bomdila. Bomdila, then had thick forests of cane, pine, Rhodendrons, Bamboo and Titachap. From Kakaling, the way meandered to present craft centre and then to the Deputy Commissioner's bungalow; Here in place of craft centre and the government garrage below it, there were two big ponds. Also, there were five other small ponds in the area.

From the camp, the path led upwards to the present TV tower, from where it again descended to 9 Kms. From here one path goes towards Dirang and Tawang, after crossing Rahung village and another path led towards But, Nafra, Janachang. Khazalang. Liyak, Lapuk, Bameng and seppa of East Kameng.

To reach the region of the Monpa's and Miji tribe, one had to cross the 9000 ft high Bomdila pass. It was for this centeralized situation of Bomdila, that Shri Khating selected the southern slopes of Bomdila ridge as the headquarter. Roads were not built then. In 1965 shri khating was the security commissioner at Tezapur. It was then that I with a company of S.S.B. marched on foot along this old track. Though roads were constructed from foot hills to Bomdila and from Bhalukpong to Bomdila but to get a thorough idea of the area and also to get accustomed to the height, we were asked to march on foot by commandant Shri Janak kumar LP.S. From Salonibari to the foot hills marching on plains was easy.

First night we halted on the banks of the river Belsiri. After the foot hills our climb had begun. Next day we reached Doimara, which is a developing village now. In those days it used to be the temporary winter abode of the Sherdukpens of Rupa. The 117 men of the company began to make preparations to spend the night on the banks of the Belsiri river at Doimara. Some went fishing in the river. I was also occupied in making a bed of green leaves for myself under a tree, when our Hav.Maj I. Muthaiyaa apporoched beaming with smile and asked if I would like to eat. On being questioned what it was to be eaten, he said something in Telgu which was beyond me to understand. He then tried to explain to me in English saying -sir, two legs, six cuttings, water slow! They had caught some crabs and he didn't know either its English or Hindi name. That night we had a good night sleep after a bawl of crab's soup. The climb from Doimara to chaku via Piri La was very steep. Those who had not maintained a reasonable balance between their needs and mobility and were carrying heavy pack, started throwing there unnecessary items in the forest to lighten their packs

After crossing Pirila (2829 mtr) the track descends to Jabrang (2516 mtr) and goes along the slops of the hill. At that time there was a small C.G.I. sheet roof staging hut at Jabrang, which is demolished now. From Jabrang the track comes down to village Thongre(1680 mtr). We halted for the night here, Thongre, is a Sherdukpen village. We called on the village