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Showing posts with label Denim. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Denim. Show all posts

Wednesday, February 26, 2014

Rayon of Sunshine

I wrote a post last week about all of my new fabrics and what I'm going to do with them and then it was unceremoniously (and mistakenly) deleted. Partly, it was a Blogger glitch. Partly is was a migraine issue.

I'm not one of those who bothers to retype a comment that gets eaten, so you can imagine how disinclined I am to reconstruct an entire post. Nonetheless, this post was relevant from the vantage point of illustrating how my recent fabric binge is a considered undertaking.

Gist: I'm only buying fabric to go with patterns I intend to actually make, like, in the next 6 months. Other gist: Can't fit any more fabric into the cupboard. Apparently, my limit is 45 yards. Now on a fabric siesta.

Stay tuned for a new version of the deleted post, when my hostility finally subsides, but in the meanwhile, let me say this:

The rayon "denim" I used to make the Claudia pants is from Gorgeous Fabrics and you should not waste time. Go buy 4 yards. But not until I buy another 4 yards (which will bring me up to having purchased 8 yards of this drapey deliciousness). Note: It appears that Ann has just updated the store site - I know this change has been in the works - so it's all new and fun, but it does appear to be loading quite slowly today and I'm having trouble logging in. Maybe order this fabric tomorrow...

Let me give you the lowdown:

  • Whether you're the skinniest of minis (and you need some delicate fall in your fabric) or a more robust sort (looking for good drape with a dollop of even stretch that doesn't look stretchy), you will find 6 ways to use this stuff. It would make an excellent dress - woven or stretch woven. It's perfect for pants. It would be terrific for a skirt. You could even make an unlined (Hong Kong finished) jacket. I see possibilities for a great peplum, sleeveless top (the kind with a side zip) etc.
  • It's very "modern RTW" seeming. I could see Theory or Pink Tartan using it in one of its designs.
  • Yeah, it's on the synthetic side of the equation (though rayon is a hybrid). But it looks luxe and it breathes really nicely.
  • OMG, IT. DOES. NOT. WRINKLE. Not straight out of two washes and twice in the dryer. Not after a day of wear. It's veritably space-aged. Have I mentioned how I loathe wrinkles? It's one of the reasons you will never see me in linen or woven cotton. (The other reason is that I really don't like most iterations of either of those fabrics.)
If I had to complain about it, I'd say that it's not the best for working with darts. The very thing that makes it beautiful to wear makes it suboptimal for clean tapering at the ends of the darts. I would NOT try using this to create tucks or pleats of any sort. You'd be going against the grain, as it were. Mind you, it does press very well (no need for pressing cloth, can deal with steam and high heat) and it holds a hem crease perfectly.

A mediocre fabric can be blamed for taking up space in your stash, but a beautiful one won't be there for long. My justification for owning lots of this (not that I want everything made in the same fabric!) is that this "denim" can be used to make just about anything. Furthermore, I did trash 2 yards of it on muslins, what with my perspective that, if you want to make a finished product you can rely on, you need to use the fashion fabric on test versions. What can I say? I'm like the very opposite of the WW2 sewist in this respect.

Wednesday, December 14, 2011

Ms. Mojo Risin'

Quick post to tell you: I know what I'm sewing next. And next. And then after that.

My imagination, which seemed to vacate the sewing premises for a while, has returned in force.

If only I had time to indulge the impulse.

Will show fabrics anon but - with scarcely any time to blog, much less photo (I've been to 6 holiday gatherings since last Friday night), let me say that I had an hour on my hands in the garment district yesterday eve and I did some damage: silk charmeuse (navy), the most gorgeous square-patterned, modern-seeming lace (navy), some denim (navy), a very thin sweater knit with good drape (navy) (yes, I do see the theme)... Then I got some pink lace (not as special as the blue but well matched to the poly crepe I also purchased). I got some pink petersham at Mokuba - talk about selling the farm for dainties. Note: Mokuba has some stretch and woven faux fur in a number of great colours/widths/styles that are so lovely they're almost turning me to the fake side. But not quite. For 105.00 a metre, you too can own some of the wider stuff - and by wider I mean 12 inches (maybe). Finally, I bought a yard of really nice t shirt material in grey. Oh, and zippers and thread.

In brief:
  • Gonna use the lace / silky combos to make a pink and then navy slip with Sherry's great pattern. Good news, Ladies, she's going to do an FBA tutorial!
  • Gonna use the navy thin knit to make another version of this that drapes better and actually fits in the neck. It's a precursor to using Mardel's cashmere. I need to perfect things first.
  • Gonna use the denim to make another pair of Clovers that, hopefully, fit a bit snugger. I might even try to use the pink petersham to make the waist facing, if I can figure it out.
  • The grey will be for a T shirt for Scott, using the bespoke pattern I made him for his birthday.
I'm not in a rush. I have the whole holiday season to work on these. And to tell you / show you more about them. Please stay tuned.

Monday, January 10, 2011

Get a Leg Up

Meet Kwik Sew 3807:


This is one of the most exciting patterns I've ever come across - if only for its sheer wearability in my particular wardrobe.

And it just arrived at my door today! Seriously, there is no garment I don more happily (or, potentially, more frequently) than denim leggings. With tunic tops, big sweaters, asymmetric cardigans - they're fantastic. Warmer (and edgier) than tights or "regular" leggings, they fit like a glove, but with substance.

I am happy to be the guinea pig for this pattern - as I can't seem to find any reviews...

For those taking notes: Contrary to my usual "one-at-a-time" protocol, I am currently working on 3 sewing projects simultaneously - the Pendrell top, these denim leggings and the bra. (Some new lingerie supplies arrived today, and while they're great, I think I may have to alter the size of the wires. Fortunately, I have had excellent service - and superior product - from Dini at Danglez.)

I'm intrigued to see how I'm going to manage a busy period at work and a truly full sewing schedule. Happily, I'm very engaged by all of it, so how bad can it be?

Friday, December 31, 2010

Happy New Year!

I promised you shots of the new hand-sewn jeans - the (so far) ultimate ones. The ones without stretch. And I simply had to throw in a few of me in the new top.

So, without further ado:

It's particularly stupid to be wearing these shoes. But I REALLY wanted to look my chicest.

This is the shot where I'm badass.

This is the shot where I can really see that I need to work on my waistline.

This is the shot my mother will like... (She wants you to know I NEVER wore braces.)

This is the shot we had to take 5 times because the others were particularly unflattering.

This is the gratuitous shot of the top of my hair. Which Scott says, incidentally makes my boobs look huge.

This is the shot where my head actually competes with my boobs. My eyes are urging you to look into them, but I just don't know...

This is the one of the back of the Theory Fionula sweater. It does look better in real life...

And this is where I give you an air kiss cuz I think you rock and I want you to have a wonderful new year.

Sunday, December 19, 2010

Updated What I Wore: The New Pants as Jeans

So I made the V1166 pants in denim, following all of the sage comment advice. And I think it worked out pretty well:





This is my public service announcement photo: DON'T wear a pale bra under a dark top when being photographed with a flash. The bra is actually pink - but it's too light for the topper. It's like my boobs are a light source!

Some things to note:
  • They're too short (except with my Diesel "runners"). I'm wearing (practically) flat boots in the photo because I can't stand to look at those runners any more.
  • This pattern is weird. I feel that there's too much fabric between the top of my pelvis and my pubic bone. That's the "mom" element. It looks less strange with fancy fabric, fyi. I'm either going to have to experiment with the front-crotch length or find myself another pattern that doesn't yield this result. (A fly-front option might be better given my shape?)
  • The whole "OMG there's a drag line" issue doesn't really upset me. Honestly, pants have to move in a zillion directions. As long as they aren't a sign that things are too tight, I can live with them. The problem is, to get rid of every drag - at least with my current level of expertise - the pants would be too big as they stretched between washings. Even with RTW pants I do experience drag in certain positions.
  • I've got to fix the bottom of the zipper - which gave me no end of irritation on assembly.
  • I cut them using the same pattern as the previous pair (the modified 14) but I ended up needing to remove an extra inch of fabric from each side?! Ah, the power of stretch.
  • Because I'd already stitched 1 inch seams (which went to 1.5 inches), I opted to serge the seams together as a way to cut most of the extra seam fabric off. Otherwise, the (previously serged for edge-finishing, but not together) seam allowances were going to be ridiculously wide.
  • I think the waist is too high - esp. given the puff factor of my lower abdomen.
A few questions for the sewists:
  • Is it difficult to lower a waistline? Doesn't seem like it would be, but pants are a great unknown.
  • Do you hate drag lines - or do you just accept them? Do you see them as a mark of poor construction or a factor of the human form in pants, especially ones that skim?
  • Do you find fly front pants to be more supportive and less baggy below the hill of the lower abdomen and the pubic bone? Is this a common issue when making pants?
Update: I've been thinking about this obsessively all night and I've decided to try a couple of things with this (admittedly imperfect, but seemingly improvable) pattern.
  • Lower the waist by 2 inches (and extend the waistband accordingly).
  • Pinch out some of the size in the front leg, from the centre of the pattern. I won't interfere with the waistband.
  • Another alternative is, having lowered the waist, to extend the darts as a way to get rid of that extra room.
  • I don't think I'm going to mess with the front crotch depth at this point. I really think the extra fabric in the front leg is what's skewing things.
If any sewists have experience doing any of these things, and you care to weigh in, I'd love to hear your thoughts. Thanks!
So whatcha think?

Thursday, August 12, 2010

Truth in Advertising

And now for a fashion item I haven't slaved over:

Second Denim Yoga Jeans: Style 18

While on vacation in Quebec, I scored these Canadian-made, Second Denim jeans for some ridiculously reasonable sale price (which for me is in the neighbourhood of $80), given they fit like a second skin and they flatter tremendously.

I mean, they accomplish everything you can hope for in a pair of jeans: perfect fit, total comfort, great wash, good lines. Appropriate for work or play. Y'all know the last thing in the world I'm shopping for is more denim (I have more pairs than days of the week), but the jeans, they find me!

My friend Nicole, with whom we traveled, concurred that they were too perfect to leave behind. (Ha, ha, get it? Behind??)

I have actually done yoga in these, fyi - admittedly, only for fun in a half-assed way (what's with the puns?) - so I assure you that you can totally move in all directions.

The one thing I'll say against them (if you can call this a complaint), is that they do lose their shape a little after 3 or 4 wears. Knowing this, I might have purchased one size down. Note: when first washed they fit like a glove.

Has anyone else tried this brand? Did you find it outside of Canada?

Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Jean Genie

The theory is that I'm going to make the Jalie jeans every sewing blogger talks about glowingly and incessantly. Thing is, I can't quite get with learning another new mega-skill (lapped zipper anyone?) in the next month. It just isn't in the cards.

But today, on arriving at the office, I realized that my Gap 1969 trouser jeans (part of the prototype line before the main line launched) had totally freakin' given up the ghost.

When it hit me that I was wearing denim with a shredded inner upper thigh, I knew it couldn't go on a minute longer. I mean, I've been distracted lately, but I'm not coarse.

I have this objective to remain fully clothed at work.

I had an agency meeting in the afternoon. You know how those people like to look cool. At lunch, I performed one of my super-hero mom acts: bought a kid's party birthday present, a new (back ordered book), a healthful lunch of leafy greens and a pair of jeans - 30 minutes start to finish - including the walk:

Gap 1969 Curvy Jeans

I threw out the old pair on my way out of the store. It was a bittersweet moment.

You know I like the 1969 line. I've bought a few pairs, but never the "curvy". In truth, I was looking for a recreation of the trouser jeans, but it was wishful thinking. These have some of the same tailored, but casual, elements. And a similar wash.

They are the only jeans I have that can be - nay must be - worn with flats. Too bad they're kind of fitted in the thigh. Attractively fitted, to be sure, but not exactly wide.

If you are 5'3" with longish legs, you can walk out of the store in the ankle-length. And, no doubt, you'll have to go down 2 sizes in order to get them to fit. Could be worse.

PS: IMO, it's not frittering when you have to replace a fraying, obscene garment in order to get away with a chic look while walking to work in flats. Boot season saved me from a purchase till now. And I suppose it's a necessity until I figure out how to make my own.

PPS: You know you're a veteran shopper when you can size up jeans and buy the first pair you see (aka the only pair you take into the change room).

Saturday, August 22, 2009

Shopping Like it's 1969

Oh, my Pretties, have I got a story for you...

After work, while killing an hour before meeting up with friends for dinner, I decided to walk along Queen Street and, ahem, window shop. (You know I'm being financially circumspect - and what with "back to schooling" the kid, I'm trying not to spend frivolously.)

Nonetheless, when I got to the Gap - a store which I'm much more neutral about than many who deem it "100% over" - I was lured inside by the promise of a promotional $20.00 of the new 1969 premium denim line. I've been following the line, reading the articles, and, till yesterday, I've resisted the urge to check it out. What? I think we've determined I have a bit of a habit when it comes to jeans.

I knew, before walking in, that the brand is incredibly well-priced ($80.00 CDN) on a wide variety of styles which are extremely well constructed in numerous lengths and washes. I am very pro-Patrick Robinson - I've said it before that, if anyone can dig the Gap out of the merchandising black hole it's been languishing in for the last 5 years, it's Mr. Robinson - and, a few months ago, I bought a prototype of the 1969 line (at least that's what I think it was) with my French trouser jeans. I'm still wearing them. They are durable, flattering and they work on practically all occasions from business to pleasure.

I couldn't help myself. Put me in a store with jeans and I'm compelled. I tried on practically every style from curvy to always skinny and every freakin' pair looked better than the last. To call them flattering does not do justice to this incredible product. I can tell you that many body types - from boyish to svelte to voluptuous to "challenging in jeans" - will find a friend in them. They fit like $250 jeans and you don't have to get them altered cuz they have a cut for short people.

And, just to make you feel like a million bucks: no doubt you can go down a size - or even 2 - because it's vanity sizing! I've been having a tough week on the "feeling good about me" front. It's the subject of another post that will likely be 20 pages long but I've got to reign myself in on baking like the owner of a patisserie. Feeling comfy in 6 pairs of 27s was a boon, even if it was entirely inaccurate. My psyche's too stupid not to get bound in the spell.

I settled on the skinnies in indigo. I figure a girl's got to have a signature look and mine is the skinny jean. They have some miracle pocket action happening so your ass looks perkier than a sorority sister. According to the SA's there's actually something in the fabric that assists with this. And, apparently this style is flying off the shelves on a number of different body types - though naturally the girls with stick legs prefer them.

I took them to the cash. They were $80.00 minus $20.00 plus tax. I whipped out my Visa like a shopping ninja. The cashier said: You know, we've got a promotion going on so when you pay with Visa you get an extra $10.00 off. I said: You mean 10%? No, she responded, 10 dollars.

Wow.

They cost $55.00 all in. So run, why don't you? Don't walk. These 1969 prices can't last forever.

PS: Photos of these and my new Zara snakeskin skinny pants (I know, I know) to follow soon.

Thursday, July 30, 2009

Guido & Mary & Me

You know that awesome King Crimson song " Neal & Jack & Me"? This post has nothing to do with it but you should totally download that tune cuz it's excellent. And vintage.

This post is about my new Guido & Mary jeans that were so helpfully modeled recently by the 10 foot tall gorgeous woman who weighs, I estimate, 110 lbs. Here they are on a 5 foot 3 woman of rather different proportions :-)



Honestly, am I high on drugs to post photos of myself in these after showing off the studio shots of the fit model?? It's part of my "Real Women Post Photos of Themselves though Their Legs Might Not Be 6 Feet Long" campaign to encourage self acceptance. :-)

Saturday, May 16, 2009

Jean-ius

A couple of weeks ago, I went out on a serious limb and made my first online purchase, a pair of skinny jeans(?) I have it on good authority that it was a risky venture (and you know that woman knows whereof she speaks).

But I'm all on this "chill and try it out" kick, part of the moving into my 40th year with spontaneity philosophy. (I'm about to turn 39, after all...) And I love expensive denim, though I don't love to pay for it. I love supporting Laws of General Economy. I love supporting good vendors, like Genevieve, who answered my zillions of questions...

So I closed my eyes, bid and - just like that - I won.

Now before I leapt, I took all my measurements (3 times). I asked Genevieve to measure every inch of the jeans (3 times). When the math added up I thought, how bad can this be? - though it did occur that jeans are rather complex garments. I mean, how many times have you tried on every pair in the shop to no avail?

Still, the Radcliffe jeans I won were, at least on paper, the most gorgeous things - great wash, cool ass cuff links affording alterability of the length from long to medium to cropped, lovely pocket detailing, true skinny fit, European pedigree. Eeek!

Well, they just arrived on Thursday. When I opened the package and looked at them, I was optimistic. Indeed, they weren't as stretchy as some other skinny jeans I own (always a plus), but I could tell they were going to fit. Having just eaten the most major of dinners, I opted to wait till the next morning to try them on. And, let me tell you, when I did I was blown away by a) how flattering they are and b) how much I love them.

My husband remarked that they were the best jeans ever, offered to take my picture stat, and suggested that they are inaccurately named skinny. Spray on is a term more apt, in his opinion. Whatever, they were excellent flirt fodder throughout the day and very comfortable despite the snug fit.

What do you think?!?!