WO2016166896A1

WO2016166896A1 - Stretchable warp-knitted fabric

Info

Publication number: WO2016166896A1
Application number: PCT/JP2015/061888
Authority: WO
Inventors: 表　雄一郎; 御家　隆昌
Original assignee: 東洋紡Ｓｔｃ株式会社
Priority date: 2015-04-17
Filing date: 2015-04-17
Publication date: 2016-10-20
Also published as: WO2016166993A1

Abstract

Provided is a warp-knitted fabric that fits so as to sufficiently follow the movement of the wearer, while also exhibiting an extremely large degree of stretchiness so as to avoid causing the wearer to feel any tightness. This warp-knitted fabric comprises an elastic thread and a non-elastic thread, comprises a knitted structure obtained by looping the elastic thread and non-elastic thread, is characterized in that the runner length of the non-elastic thread is 150 to 300 cm/rack, inclusive, the runner length of the elastic thread is 120 to 200 cm/rack, inclusive, the horizontal direction density is 30 to 55 threads/inch, inclusive, the vertical direction density is 50-100 threads/inch, inclusive, and the CF number is 10,000 to 24,000, inclusive, and is further characterized by corresponding to a fabric produced by a knitting machine having a gauge of 10-22.

Description

Elastic warp knitted fabric

The present invention relates to a warp knitted fabric excellent in stretchability and fit used for apparel use of sportswear such as innerwear such as girdle, bra, shorts, camisole, underwear, leggings, spats, swimwear, leotard, compression underwear, etc. Is.

Knit fabrics that knitted elastic and inelastic yarns, such as tricot 2-way, satin net, power net, etc., have been used in the fields of inner, foundation, sportswear, etc. due to their excellent extensibility and recoverability. Is often used. In recent years, there has been a demand for improvements in functional aspects such as followability to body movement, ease of attachment / detachment, comfort during wearing, body shape correction, etc., and clothing products such as complementary underwear and compression inners are not complicated in the past Sewing pattern products are being made. For the fabrics used for them, materials having extensibility and fit that are even better than before have been demanded.

In order to meet such demands, many improvements have been made to the elastic yarns and inelastic yarns used, and the knitting structure and setting conditions have been devised. For example, Patent Document 1 proposes a warp knitted fabric that uses a double-sided knitted structure and has a high recoverability and prevents slippage by forming a knit loop made of only elastic yarn on one side. Although these are excellent in recoverability at the time of wearing, there is a problem that they do not stretch greatly and the fabric becomes thick. In addition, there are problems such as high mixing ratio of elastic yarns, high difficulty of dyeing processability, and high cost.

Patent Document 2 proposes a warp knitted fabric excellent in extensibility in both directions and quality by a symmetrical atlas knitting structure. Although these are excellent in extensibility in both vertical and horizontal directions, they cannot be said to be sufficiently recoverable, and warai (sagging of the fabric) was likely to occur in actual repeated use.

Patent Document 3 proposes a warp knitted fabric excellent in extensibility and recovery in both vertical and horizontal directions by a knitting structure in which two stitches of elastic yarn are overlapped. In addition, many warp knitted fabrics having excellent stretchability and recovery in the vertical and horizontal directions by using two types of spandex have been proposed (Patent Document 4, Patent Document 5, etc.). All of these have excellent recovery in both vertical and horizontal directions, but they have strong power to improve the shape-impartability, and the extension is not sufficient and the feeling of wearing is never comfortable. . In addition, there is a problem that the mixing ratio of the elastic yarn is high, the difficulty of dyeing processability is high, and the cost is high.

Also, it is known that in a warp knitted fabric using inelastic yarns and elastic yarns, a low gauge knitting machine is used and the runner length is increased even under knitting conditions to improve the extensibility. However, these methods tend to cause problems such as poor fit, and wari (sagging of the fabric) when worn, and inelastic yarns are easily caught, resulting in poor pilling. Further, defects are easily generated in the knitting and dyeing processes, and there is a limit to making a fabric having good stretch recovery by these methods.

JP 2014-173193 A JP 2003-129361 A Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2003-166152 JP-A-5-339855 Japanese Patent No. 3482698

The present invention was devised in order to solve the above-mentioned problems of the prior art, and the purpose of the present invention is to provide the wearer with a very large extensibility so as not to feel a tight feeling to the wearer. It is to provide a warp knitted fabric with a fit that can follow the movement sufficiently.

As a result of intensive studies to achieve the above object, the inventor of the present invention uses a low gauge knitting machine in a stretch warp knitted fabric composed of inelastic yarns and elastic yarns, and sets the yarn composition and knitting conditions within a specific range. Set and knitting warp knitted fabric with excellent fit while exhibiting extremely large stretchability by keeping fiber occupancy per area within a specific range even though it is configured with relatively low density It has been found that it can be stably provided without any trouble in the process and dyeing process.

That is, if the runner length is increased using a low-gauge knitting machine, the degree of freedom of the fibers in the fabric increases, and the extensibility improves. However, if the degree of freedom of the fiber is too high, the yarn is pulled and deformed when stretched (the loops are squeezed or the yarns between the loops are displaced), and the stretched fabric is difficult to recover and the fit is poor. The degree of freedom of the fiber is the amount of fiber occupied per area in the fabric, and these can be controlled by the runner length at the time of knitting, the thickness of the constituent yarn, and the density of the fabric. By setting these within an appropriate range, the elastic yarn is stabilized in a moderately tensioned state. If it does so, since the extensibility and recovery power of an elastic yarn can fully be exhibited, the warp knitted fabric excellent in fit nature can be made while exhibiting high extensibility.

The present invention has been completed based on the above findings and has the following configurations (1) to (8).
(1) A stretchable warp knitted fabric composed of an inelastic yarn and an elastic yarn, wherein the warp knitted fabric has a knitted structure in which the inelastic yarn and the elastic yarn are looped, and the runner length of the inelastic yarn is 150 cm / rack. 300 cm / rack or less, elastic yarn runner length is 120 cm / rack to 200 cm / rack, horizontal direction density is 30 / inch to 55 / inch, and vertical direction density is 50 / inch to 100 / rack. A stretch warp knitted fabric characterized by having a CF index of 10,000 or more and 24000 or less and a warp knitted fabric produced by a 10-22 gauge warp knitting machine.
(2) The elongation rate in either the vertical direction or the horizontal direction at a load of 14.7 N is 250% or more, and the average of the elongation rates in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction is 200% or more. The stretch warp knitted fabric according to (1), wherein the direction fit index is 75% or more.
(3) The stretch warp knitted fabric according to (1) or (2), wherein the single yarn fineness of the inelastic yarn is 1 dtex or more and 11 dtex or less.
(4) The elastic warp knitted fabric according to any one of (1) to (3), wherein the mixing ratio of the elastic yarn is 10 to 40% by weight.
(5) The elastic warp knitted fabric according to any one of (1) to (4), wherein the elastic yarn is a polyurethane elastic yarn.
(6) The stretchable warp knitted fabric according to any one of (1) to (5), wherein the free cut property of the stretchable warp knitted fabric is a grade 3 or more and a curl of 45 ° or less.
(7) The pilling of the elastic warp knitted fabric is grade 3 or more in the vertical and horizontal directions, and the dimensional change rate is -6.0% to + 2.0% in the vertical and horizontal directions. The stretch warp knitted fabric according to any one of (1) to (6).
(8) A garment characterized by using the elastic warp knitted fabric according to any one of (1) to (7).

According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a warp knitted fabric having a fitting property that sufficiently follows the movement of the wearer while having a very large stretchability. By using the warp knitted fabric of the present invention, it is easy to make products such as innerwear and sports underwear that do not feel stress and do not feel the tightness of the wearer, and also follow the wearer's movement sufficiently. Become.

FIG. 1 shows a double denby structure in different directions. FIG. 2 shows a double denby structure in the same direction. FIG. 3 shows a 4C double atlas structure (closed and open). FIG. 4 shows a 4C double atlas structure (all closed eyes). FIG. 5 shows a half structure. FIG. 6 shows a double denby structure in different directions. FIG. 7 shows the relationship between the CF index and the fit index.

The warp knitted fabric of the present invention is composed of inelastic yarns and elastic yarns, and preferably contains elastic yarns in a mixing ratio of 10 to 40% by weight. When there are more elastic yarns than the above-mentioned ratio, the process in knitting and dyeing becomes difficult, and a problem is likely to occur in productivity. In addition, it is possible to increase the tensile stress, but the fit property tends to be deteriorated. Also, problems such as dimensional change rate tend to occur. On the other hand, if the elastic yarn is less than the above ratio, sufficient extensibility may not be obtained. An inelastic yarn is a yarn which does not have rubber-like elasticity, and both a filament yarn and a spun yarn can be used. Specifically, polyethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, nylon 6, nylon 66, aramid fiber, synthetic fiber multifilament represented by acrylic, acrylate, polyethylene, polypropylene, chemical fiber represented by rayon and acetate, Examples include yarns made of natural fibers such as cotton, wool and silk.

The elastic yarn is a rubber-like elastic yarn, and both monofilaments and multifilaments can be used. Specific examples include polyurethane elastic yarns, polyester-based elastic yarns, polyolefin-based elastic yarns, natural rubber, synthetic rubber, and yarns made of elastic composite fibers. Among these, polyurethane elastic yarn is preferable from the viewpoint of yarn elasticity, heat setting property, chemical resistance, and the like.

Examples of the polyurethane include known polyurethanes such as polyether, polyester, and polycarbonate. Such a polyurethane can be obtained by reacting a polyisocyanate, a polymer diol, and optionally a low-molecular polyfunctional active hydrogen compound. Examples of the polyisocyanate include 4,4′-diphenylmethane diisocyanate, 1,4-phenylene diisocyanate, 2,4-tolylene diisocyanate, 2,6-tolylene diisocyanate, naphthalene diisocyanate, hexamethylene diisocyanate, 1,4-cyclohexane. One or a mixture of two or more of diisocyanate, 4,4′-dicyclohexylmethane diisocyanate, xylylene diisocyanate and the like can be used. Of these, 4,4′-diphenylmethane diisocyanate is preferred.

The polymer diol is a substantially linear polymer having hydroxyl groups at both ends and a molecular weight of 600 to 7000, such as polytetramethylene ether glycol, polypropylene ether glycol, polyethylene ether glycol, and polypentamethylene ether glycol. Polyether polyols, copoly (tetramethylene · neopentylene) ether diol, copoly (tetramethylene · 2-methylbutylene) ether diol, copoly (tetramethylene · 2,3-dimethylbutylene) ether diol, copoly (tetramethylene · 2, 2-dimethylbutylene) ether diol and other copolyether polyols containing an alkylene group having 6 or less carbon atoms, adipic acid, sebacic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, mazela One or a mixture of two or more dibasic acids such as acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, suberic acid, dodecanedicarboxylic acid, β-methyladipic acid, hexahydroterephthalic acid, and ethylene glycol, 1,2 -Polyester polyols or polyethers obtained from one or a mixture of two or more glycols such as propylene glycol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, neopentyl glycol, 1,4-dimethylolcyclohexane Any polyol such as ester diol, polylactone diol, and polycarbonate diol can be used.

As described above, in a warp knitted fabric using inelastic yarns and elastic yarns, a low gauge knitting machine is used to increase the runner length under the knitting conditions. When worn, cracks are likely to occur, or inelastic yarns are easily caught, and problems such as poor pilling are likely to occur. Further, defects are easily generated in the knitting and dyeing processes, and there is a limit to making a fabric having good stretch recovery by these methods.

In order to solve these problems, the present inventor, while using a low gauge knitting machine, increases the runner length, lowers the density of the finished fabric, and appropriately configures the elastic yarn and the inelastic yarn. The elastic yarn was stabilized in a moderately tensioned state by adjusting the fiber occupation ratio per area. As a result, the stretchability and resilience of the elastic yarn can be sufficiently exhibited, so that a warp knitted fabric excellent in fit can be made while exhibiting high stretchability.

The warp knitted fabric of the present invention needs to have a knitted structure in which inelastic yarns and elastic yarns are looped. By looping the non-elastic yarn and the elastic yarn, the yarn is less likely to be displaced during repeated elongation. As a result, there is no deterioration in recoverability due to repeated use, and there is no lowering of fit property or occurrence of cracks.

The warp knitted fabric of the present invention has an inelastic yarn runner length of 150 cm / rack or more and 300 cm / rack or less, an elastic yarn runner length of 120 cm / rack or more and 200 cm / rack or less, and a horizontal direction density of 30 pieces / inch or more. It is necessary that the vertical direction density is 55 lines / inch or less and the vertical direction density is 50 lines / inch or more and 100 lines / inch or less. By increasing the runner length for both the non-elastic yarn and the elastic yarn, there is no binding force on the yarn in the fabric, and the stretchability and recoverability inherent in the elastic yarn are sufficiently exhibited. However, if the runner length is too long, loops will not be formed well on the knitting machine, making it impossible to make fabrics, causing many knitting defects, and making the product unusable. Preferably, the runner length of the inelastic yarn is 160 cm / rack or more and 290 cm / rack or less, and the runner length of the elastic yarn is 125 cm / rack or more and 190 cm / rack or less. More preferably, the runner length of the inelastic yarn is 165 cm / rack or more and 285 cm / rack or less, and the runner length of the elastic yarn is 130 cm / rack or more and 185 cm / rack or less. The runner length described here means the yarn feeding length of each yarn set at the time of designing the living machine.

In order to obtain excellent stretchability and recoverability while increasing the runner length, it is necessary to reduce the density of the finished fabric. When the density is too large, the elastic yarn is not properly pulled, and slack in the yarn tends to occur. For this reason, the recoverability is not sufficient, and the fabric becomes slack due to repeated wear. In addition, wrinkles and wrinkles are likely to occur in the dyeing process, which is not desirable in appearance. If the density is too small, the intended extensibility cannot be obtained sufficiently. In addition, the fabric is too thin and too light, causing problems with the rate of dimensional change.

From this point of view, the warp knitted fabric of the present invention needs to have a horizontal direction density of 30 / inch to 55 / inch and a vertical direction density of 50 / inch to 100 / inch. Preferably, the horizontal direction density is 32 lines / inch or more and 52 lines / inch or less, and the vertical direction density is 55 lines / inch or more and 95 lines / inch or less. More preferably, the horizontal direction density is 35 lines / inch to 50 lines / inch and the vertical direction density is 60 lines / inch to 90 lines / inch.

As a knitting machine for producing these fabrics, a tricot knitting machine, a Russell knitting machine or the like is preferable. As the structure of the warp knitted fabric, any structure that loops both inelastic yarns and elastic yarns may be used, but in many cases, structures such as double denby, double atlas, half, and satin are used. The elastic yarn and the non-elastic yarn may be in different directions or the same direction, or a combination of an opening and a closing eye. The warp knitted fabric of the present invention corresponds to a knitting machine having a gauge of 10 to 22 gauge, preferably 12 to 20 gauge, more preferably 14 to 18 gauge. The gauge is the density (number) of knitting needles used on the knitting machine, and is generally indicated by the number of knitting needles per inch. In a warp knitted fabric composed of an elastic yarn and an inelastic yarn, 28 gauge is common, and a lower one is called a low gauge.

If the gauge of the knitting machine deviates from the scope of the present invention, it is difficult to stably produce the fabric with good quality under the knitting conditions (runner length, etc.) for making the target fabric, and troubles are likely to occur. Become. The warp knitted fabric of the present invention may be made using a 10 to 22 gauge knitting machine, or a high gauge general knitting machine such as a 28 gauge or a 32 gauge knitting machine. A similar fabric corresponding to 10 to 22 gauge may be made by thinning out the needles used. The case of any method is included in the scope of the warp knitted fabric of the present invention.

The warp knitted fabric of the present invention corresponds to that produced by the low-gauge knitting machine as described above, but on the other hand, the runner length is increased, the finished fabric density is reduced, and the elastic yarn and the inelastic yarn are configured. Was set to control the fiber occupancy per area. Thereby, the warp knitted fabric of the present invention can sufficiently exhibit the stretchability and recovery force of the yarn inherent to the elastic yarn, and exhibits an excellent effect on fit while having high stretchability. Can do.

In order to fully exhibit the stretchability and recovery of the inherent thread of an elastic thread, it is necessary to create a structure in which the elastic thread can move freely within the fabric (that is, it is necessary to increase the runner length) ). Furthermore, in order to exhibit the recoverability, it is necessary to stabilize the elastic yarn in a state where the tension is moderately applied (that is, it is necessary to stabilize the finished density within an appropriate range). In order to maintain these states, it is necessary that the occupation ratio of the fibers per area falls within an appropriate range. If the fiber occupancy ratio per area is low, the fiber becomes too easy to move, which may hinder dimensional stability, or the elastic yarn will sag after repeated stretching during actual wear, resulting in poor recovery. Further, when the fiber occupation ratio per area is high, the degree of freedom of the elastic yarn is lost, and a large stretchability cannot be exhibited, the fabric weight is increased, the fabric becomes thicker, and the texture becomes harder.

Here, the occupation ratio of fibers per area corresponds to a cover factor referred to as a woven fabric or the like. In textiles, generally

Is calculated.
Although various warp knitting cover factors have been proposed, the above-mentioned fiber occupancy per area is often not accurately shown.
In view of these, the occupation ratio of the fibers per area was defined as the CF index and defined by the following formula.

In other words, it is the concept of the conventional circular knitting cover factor,

Based on the mathematical formula, the DR ratio of the elastic yarn and the runner length were added as factors to obtain a value closer to the fiber occupation ratio per area.
The DR rate is a rate at which the yarn is pulled during knitting. In warp knitting, the elastic yarn is generally knitted in a state of being pulled in a range of 1.8 to 2.2 times. The inelastic yarn is knitted in a range of 1 to 1.05 times.

By setting the CF index to an appropriate range, it is easy to maintain a state in which the elastic yarn is appropriately pulled. The CF index of the warp knitted fabric of the present invention needs to be in the range of 10,000 to 24,000. Preferably they are 11000 or more and 23000 or less, More preferably, they are 12000 or more and 22000 or less. When the CF index is lower than the above range, the dimensional stability is deteriorated and the recoverability is deteriorated. On the other hand, when the CF index is higher than the above range, the stretchability is deteriorated and the basis weight is also increased. The basis weight of the warp knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably in the range of 80 to 350 g / m ² . When the basis weight is lower than the above range, physical properties such as bursting strength are deteriorated, which tends to cause a problem when the final product is obtained. If the basis weight is higher than the above range, the product becomes thicker and heavier, and wear comfort is likely to be impaired.

In the warp knitted fabric of the present invention, the elongation rate in either the vertical direction or the horizontal direction at a load of 14.7 N is preferably 250% or more, more preferably 270% or more, and even more preferably 280% or more. And the average of the elongation in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction is preferably 200% or more, more preferably 220% or more, and even more preferably 230% or more. If the elongation rate is less than the above range, it can fully follow the movement of the body when used in innerwear such as girdle and complementary underwear and sportswear such as spats, leotards, compression underwear, etc. In addition, it becomes easy to feel cramped feeling due to the stoppage of the fabric. Moreover, even if the average of the expansion ratios in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction is less than the above range, similarly, it becomes easy to feel a tight feeling.

Further, the warp knitted fabric of the present invention has excellent followability due to exercise after wearing, and the fit index is a standard for expressing the effect. The fit index can be calculated from the ratio of the stress at the time of 50% elongation and the stress at the time of 50% tension in the third cycle when the fabric is stretched for 3 cycles at 80% elongation in one direction. Specifically, the fit index (%) = (50% tension stress at the third cycle / 50% elongation stress at the third cycle) × 100. In the warp knitted fabric of the present invention, the fit index in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction is preferably 75% or more, more preferably 78% or more, and further preferably 80% or more. If the fit index in the vertical and horizontal directions is less than the above range, the fabric may not sufficiently follow the wear with intense exercise, and wari (sagging of the fabric) that tends to occur in joints such as the elbows and knees occurs. there is a possibility.

The single yarn fineness of the inelastic fiber constituting the warp knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably 1 dtex or more and 11 dtex or less, more preferably 1.5 dtex or more and 10 dtex or less, and further preferably 1,8 dtex or more and 9 dtex or less. If the single yarn fineness of the non-elastic yarn is smaller than the above range, the bending stiffness of the non-elastic yarn will be low, so that the amount that the yarn will be pulled and deformed during expansion / contraction (the loop will be squeezed or the yarn between the loops will be displaced) Larger and stretched fabrics are less likely to recover, resulting in poor fit. Further, when the single yarn fineness is increased, problems such as pilling and pulling are less likely to occur. However, if the single yarn fineness is larger than the above range, the bending rigidity of the fiber becomes too large, and on the knitting machine, the loop cannot be made stably, the fabric cannot be made, and many knitting defects occur, There is a possibility of becoming impossible. In addition, skin contact may easily occur when contacted with the skin. In addition, since bending rigidity changes and recovery property also becomes good by making it an irregular shaped cross section such as a triangular cross section or a Y-shaped cross section, these techniques may be combined.

Since the warp knitted fabric of the present invention is made as described above, it is possible to achieve free cut characteristics of grade 3 or higher, further grade 4 or higher, curl of 45 ° or less, and further 30 ° or less. . Further, the warp knitted fabric of the present invention can achieve a pilling grade 3 or higher in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction, and a dimensional change rate of −6.0% to + 2.0% in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction.

The dyeing process of the warp knitted fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited, and can be performed by a general warp knitting fabric dyeing method and conditions. However, considering the consumption characteristics of the product, it is necessary to improve the dimensional stability by adding a heat setting process such as presetting. In addition, we perform general functional processing such as water absorption processing and flexible processing, antifouling processing, deodorization processing, water repellent processing, antibacterial, bacteriostatic processing, UV cut processing, antistatic processing, skin care processing, etc. Also good. It is also possible to combine a plurality of them. For the purpose of improving extensibility and recoverability, it may be processed with a silicon-based and urethane-based softening agent. Moreover, you may process with a water absorption finishing agent in order to improve the wearing comfort at the time of perspiration. In addition, special processing such as single-sided water repellent processing may be performed for the purpose of preventing sweat stains, stickiness, and cooling of sweat. In order to exhibit windproof properties and gloss, calendering may be performed, or raising may be performed for the purpose of improving heat retention.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail by way of examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. In addition, each performance evaluation in an Example was performed with the following method.

(1) Elongation rate A test piece having a width of 2.5 cm and a length of 16 cm was taken from the knitted stretch warp knitted fabric, attached to an Instron type tensile tester at a tensile interval of 10 cm, and 14.4 at a speed of 300 mm / min. A 7N load was applied, and the elongation at that time was measured.

(2) Fit index A test piece having a width of 2.5 cm and a length of 16 cm is taken from a knitted stretch warp knitted fabric and attached to an Instron type tensile tester at a tensile interval of 10 cm, and the elongation at elongation is 80%. The elongation recovery was repeated 3 cycles at a speed of 300 mm / min. The stress at the time of 50% elongation in the third cycle and the stress at the time of 50% tension in the third cycle were measured, and the fit index was calculated by the following formula.
Fit index (%) = (50% tension stress at the third cycle / 50% elongation stress at the third cycle) × 100

(3) Density In accordance with JIS-L1018-1998, the warp direction density (main / inch) and the transverse direction density (main / inch) of the knitted fabric were measured.

(4) CF index The CF index was determined by the following formula.

However, the DR rate is a rate at which the yarn is pulled during knitting.

(5) Weight per unit area (mass per unit area in standard condition)
Measurement was carried out according to JIS-L-1096A method.

(6) Pilling Measured according to JIS-L-1076A method (method using ICI type tester).

(7) Dimensional change rate Measured according to the JIS-L-1096G method (household electric washing machine method).

(8) Free-cut characteristics Cut the knitted fabric into 5cm vertical x 40cm wide, and cut into the waling direction of the knitted fabric 3cm at a 40 ° incision, and alternately put 5 places in both the knitting start and knitting end directions. After the cut sections were combined and sewn into a cylindrical shape, washing was performed as follows in accordance with JIS-L-0217-103, with the washing time being 300 minutes as follows.
Laundry (300 minutes) → Centrifugal dehydration → Rinse (2 minutes) → Centrifugal dehydration → Rinse (2 minutes) → Centrifugal dehydration

Thereafter, the knitted fabric was air-dried by flat laying, the degree of fraying at the edge of the cut knitted fabric was evaluated, and the degree of curling was measured.
Fraying evaluation criteria Grade 5: No damage is observed and there is no difference from before washing. Grade 4: No damage is found, but there is a part that is sagged compared to before washing. Grade 3: Slightly damaged, but yarn There is no protrusion of the edge Level 2: Pain is recognized and the end of the thread is protruding Level 1: Curling measurement method where the pain is severe and the knitted fabric structure of the cut surface is collapsed Place the fabric on a horizontal surface and measure the winding angle To do. The angle of the largest winding portion among the five locations was used.

(Example 1)
Using a 16 gauge 2 piece tricot knitting machine, nylon (Ny) 78dtex24f (filament) yarn on the front piece (first piece), spandex (Pu) 78dtex yarn (polyether polyurethane) on the back piece (second piece) Type), and the organization was knitted with a double denby structure (see FIG. 1) in a different direction with a front set 12/10 full set and a back set 10/12 full set. The runner length at this time was set to 180 cm / rack for front and 168 cm / rack for back. The draft rate (DR rate) of spandex was 2.0 times. The draft rate (DR rate) of nylon was 1.0 times.

Next, this raw machine is subjected to a dyeing process under the conditions of pre-wet-preset (190 ° C. × 40 seconds) -dye (liquid flow dye machine 100 ° C. × 45 minutes) -final set (160 ° C. × 40 seconds). went. The obtained dough had a vertical direction density: 86 / inch, a horizontal direction density: 44 / inch, and a basis weight: 227 g / m ² . Their CF index was 20803. The details and evaluation results of the obtained dough are shown in Table 1.

(Example 2)
Using a 16 gauge two piece tricot knitting machine, nylon 78dtex24f yarn is used for the front piece (first piece), and spandex 44dtex yarn (polyether polyurethane type) is used for the back piece (second piece). The knitted fabric was knitted with a double denby structure (see FIG. 1) of different directions, 12/10 full set, and back set 10/12 full set. At this time, the runner length was 176 cm / rack for front and 144 cm / rack for back. The draft rate (DR rate) of spandex was 2.0 times. The draft rate (DR rate) of nylon was 1.0 times. Dyeing was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1. The obtained dough had a vertical density: 81 pieces / inch, a horizontal direction density: 44 pieces / inch, and a basis weight: 173 g / m ² . Their CF index was 16556. The details and evaluation results of the obtained dough are shown in Table 1.

(Example 3)
Using a 16 gauge two piece tricot knitting machine, nylon 78dtex24f yarn is used for the front piece (first piece), and spandex 78dtex yarn (polyether polyurethane type) is used for the back piece (second piece). It was knitted with a 4C double atlas structure (see FIG. 3) of 10/12/23/21 full set and back set 23/21/10/12 full set. The runner length at this time was set to 180 cm / rack for front and 168 cm / rack for back. The draft rate (DR rate) of spandex was 2.0 times. The draft rate (DR rate) of nylon was 1.0 times. Dyeing was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1. The obtained dough had a vertical direction density: 80 pieces / inch, a horizontal direction density: 42 pieces / inch, and a basis weight: 206 g / m ² . Their CF index was 16644. The details and evaluation results of the obtained dough are shown in Table 1.

Example 4
Using a 32-gauge tricot knitting machine with 32 gauges, nylon 78dtex24f yarn is used for the front sheath (first sheath), and spandex 78dtex yarn (polyether polyurethane type) is used for the back sheath (second sheath). By knitting with 1 in 1 out with 23/10 and 1 in 1 out with back spacer 10/23, it was knitted with a double denby structure (see FIG. 6) in a different direction substantially corresponding to 16 gauge. The runner length at this time was set to 180 cm / rack for front and 168 cm / rack for back. The draft rate (DR rate) of spandex was 2.0 times. The draft rate (DR rate) of nylon was 1.0 times. Dyeing was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1. The obtained dough had a vertical direction density: 84 pieces / inch, a horizontal direction density: 44 pieces / inch, and a basis weight: 223 g / m ² . Their CF index was 20319. The details and evaluation results of the obtained dough are shown in Table 1.

(Example 5)
Using a 20 gauge two piece tricot knitting machine, nylon 78dtex24f yarn is used for the front piece (first piece), and spandex 78dtex yarn (polyether polyurethane type) is used for the back piece (second piece). The knitted fabric was knitted with a double denby structure (see FIG. 1) of different directions, 12/10 full set, and back set 10/12 full set. The runner length at this time was set to 168 cm / rack for front and 130 cm / rack for back. The draft rate (DR rate) of spandex was 2.0 times. The draft rate (DR rate) of nylon was 1.0 times. Dyeing was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1. The obtained dough had a vertical direction density: 93 / inch, a horizontal direction density: 48 / inch, and a basis weight: 204 g / m ² . Their CF index was 21349. The details and evaluation results of the obtained dough are shown in Table 1.

(Example 6)
Using a 16 gauge 2 piece tricot knitting machine, using a polyester (Es) 84 dtex 36f yarn for the front piece (first piece) and a spandex 78 dtex yarn (polyether polyurethane type) for the back piece (second piece). Was knitted with a double denby structure (see FIG. 1) in different directions with a front set 12/10 full set and a back set 10/12 full set. The runner length at this time was set to 180 cm / rack for front and 168 cm / rack for back. The draft rate (DR rate) of spandex was 2.0 times. The draft rate (DR rate) of the polyester was 1.0 times. Dyeing was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1. However, only the dyeing process was performed under the conditions of a liquid dyeing machine 120 ° C. × 45 minutes. The obtained dough had a vertical direction density: 82 / inch, a horizontal direction density: 42 / inch, and a basis weight: 217 g / m ² . Their CF index was 18934. Table 1 shows the details of the fabric obtained and the evaluation results.

(Example 7)
Using a 16 gauge two piece tricot knitting machine, nylon 78dtex34f yarn is used for the front piece (first piece), and spandex 78 dtex yarn (polyether polyurethane type) is used for the back piece (second piece). The knitted fabric was knitted with a double denby structure (see FIG. 1) of different directions, 12/10 full set, and back set 10/12 full set. The runner length at this time was set to 180 cm / rack for front and 168 cm / rack for back. The draft rate (DR rate) of spandex was 2.0 times. The draft rate (DR rate) of nylon was 1.0 times. Dyeing was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1. The obtained dough had a vertical direction density: 86 / inch, a horizontal direction density: 44 / inch, and a basis weight: 225 g / m ² . Their CF index was 20803. The details and evaluation results of the obtained dough are shown in Table 1.

(Example 8)
Using a 16 gauge 2 piece tricot knitting machine, nylon 78dtex24f yarn is used for the front piece (first piece) and spandex 44dtex yarn (polyester polyurethane type) is used for the back piece (second piece). Knitted with a double denby structure in different directions (see FIG. 1), full set with / 10 and full set with back os 10/12. At this time, the runner length was 176 cm / rack for front and 144 cm / rack for back. The draft rate (DR rate) of spandex was 2.0 times. The draft rate (DR rate) of nylon was 1.0 times. Dyeing was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1. The obtained dough had a vertical direction density: 78 pieces / inch, a horizontal direction density: 41 pieces / inch, and a basis weight: 163 g / m ² . Their CF index was 16348. The details and evaluation results of the obtained dough are shown in Table 1.

Example 9
Using a 16 gauge 2 piece tricot knitting machine, using nylon processed yarn (NyTx) 44dtex40f yarn for the front piece (first piece) and spandex 22dtex yarn (polyether polyurethane type) for the back piece (second piece) The organization was knitted with a double denby structure (refer to FIG. 1) of different directions of front set 12/10 full set and back set 10/12 full set. At this time, the runner length was set to 176 cm / rack for front and 136 cm / rack for back. The draft rate (DR rate) of spandex was 2.0 times. The draft rate (DR rate) of nylon was 1.0 times. Dyeing was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1. The obtained dough had a vertical direction density: 80 pieces / inch, a horizontal direction density: 44 pieces / inch, and a basis weight: 107 g / m ² . Their CF index was 11869. The details and evaluation results of the obtained dough are shown in Table 1.

(Example 10)
Using a 16 gauge 2 piece tricot knitting machine, using nylon processed yarn 44dtex40f yarn for the front piece (first piece) and spandex 22dtex yarn (polyether polyurethane type) for the back piece (second piece). The knitted fabric was knitted with a double double denby structure (see FIG. 2) in the same direction of the front set 10/12 full set and the back set 10/12 full set. The runner length at this time was set to 170 cm / rack for the front back and 136 cm / rack for the back back. The draft rate (DR rate) of spandex was 2.0 times. The draft rate (DR rate) of nylon was 1.0 times. Dyeing was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1. The obtained dough had a vertical direction density: 74 pieces / inch, a horizontal direction density: 42 pieces / inch, and a basis weight: 88 g / m ² . Their CF index was 10222. The details and evaluation results of the obtained dough are shown in Table 1.

(Example 11)
Using a 16 gauge 2 piece tricot knitting machine, using nylon processed yarn 44dtex40f yarn for the front piece (first piece) and spandex 22dtex yarn (polyether polyurethane type) for the back piece (second piece). It was knitted with a 4C double atlas structure (refer to FIG. 3) of the full set with the front os 23/21/10/12 and the full set with the back os 10/12/23/21. At this time, the runner length was set to 176 cm / rack for front and 136 cm / rack for back. The draft rate (DR rate) of spandex was 2.0 times. The draft rate (DR rate) of nylon was 1.0 times. Dyeing was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1. The obtained dough had a vertical direction density: 77 pieces / inch, a horizontal direction density: 42 pieces / inch, and a basis weight: 96 g / m ² . Their CF index was 10905. The details and evaluation results of the obtained dough are shown in Table 1.

(Comparative Example 1)
Using a 32-gauge tri-blade tricot knitting machine, nylon 44dtex34f yarn is used for the front back (first back), and spandex 44dtex yarn (polyether polyurethane type) is used for the back back (second back). It was knitted with a 4C double atlas structure (see FIG. 3) of 10/12/23/21 full set and back set 23/21/10/12 full set. The runner length at this time was set to 108 cm / rack for front and 80 cm / rack for back. The draft rate (DR rate) of spandex was 2.0 times. The draft rate (DR rate) of nylon was 1.0 times. Dyeing was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1. The obtained dough had a vertical density: 131 / inch, a horizontal density: 65 / inch, and a basis weight: 168 g / m ² . Their CF index was 19365. The details and evaluation results of the obtained dough are shown in Table 1.

(Comparative Example 2)
Using a 32-gauge tri-blade tricot knitting machine, nylon 44dtex34f yarn is used for the front back (first back), and spandex 44dtex yarn (polyether polyurethane type) is used for the back back (second back). It was knitted with 4C atlas organization (see FIG. 4) of 10/21/23/12 full set and back set 23/12/10/21 full set. The runner length at this time was set to 108 cm / rack for front and 102 cm / rack for back. The draft rate (DR rate) of spandex was 2.0 times. The draft rate (DR rate) of nylon was 1.0 times. Dyeing was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1. The obtained dough had a vertical direction density: 118 lines / inch, a horizontal direction density: 67 lines / inch, and a basis weight: 152 g / m ² . Their CF index was 19680. The details and evaluation results of the obtained dough are shown in Table 1.

(Comparative Example 3)
Using a 32-gauge tricot knitting machine with 32 gauges, nylon 78 dtex 34f yarn is used for the front sheath (first sheath), spandex 44 dtex yarn (polyether polyurethane type) is used for the back sheath (second sheath), and the structure is front fabric. The fabric was knitted with a half set (see FIG. 5) of 10/23 full set, and back set 12/10 full set. At this time, the runner length was 157 cm / rack for front and 87 cm / rack for back. The draft rate (DR rate) of spandex was 2.0 times. The draft rate (DR rate) of nylon was 1.0 times. Dyeing was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1. The obtained dough had a vertical direction density: 97 pieces / inch, a horizontal direction density: 65 pieces / inch, and a basis weight: 281 g / m ² . Their CF index was 23574. The details and evaluation results of the obtained dough are shown in Table 1.

(Comparative Example 4)
Using a 16 gauge two piece tricot knitting machine, nylon 44dtex34f yarn is used for the front piece (first piece), and spandex 22dtex yarn (polyether polyurethane type) is used for the back piece (second piece). The knitted fabric was knitted with a double denby structure (see FIG. 1) of different directions, 12/10 full set, and back set 10/12 full set. At this time, the runner length was 145 cm / rack for front and 115 cm / rack for back. The draft rate (DR rate) of spandex was 2.0 times. The draft rate (DR rate) of nylon was 1.0 times. Dyeing was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1. The obtained dough had a vertical direction density: 105 pieces / inch, a horizontal direction density: 60 pieces / inch, and a basis weight: 115 g / m ² . Their CF index was 17630. The details and evaluation results of the obtained dough are shown in Table 1.

As can be seen from Table 1, in the warp knitted fabrics of Examples 1 to 11, either the warp direction or the transverse direction has a high stretch rate and the average of both stretch rates, and the fit index in the warp direction and the transverse direction is also high. high. In addition, pilling, dimensional change rate, and free cut characteristics are excellent. In particular, the warp knitted fabrics of Examples 1 to 8 are excellent in these respects. On the other hand, the warp knitted fabrics of Comparative Examples 1 to 4 did not satisfy either the elongation ratio or the fit index, and did not satisfy other characteristics. FIG. 7 shows the relationship between the CF index and the fit index in the warp knitted fabrics of Examples 1, 2, 9 to 11 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3. As can be seen from FIG. 7, in the case of the same CF index, the fit index tends to be higher in the 16 gauge of the low gauge.

The warp knitted fabric of the present invention has very large extensibility and good fit, and by using these, stress that does not cause the wearer to feel cramped and sufficiently follows the movement of the wearer. It is possible to make innerwear and sports under products that don't feel bad. These are not only used for clothing such as innerwear such as girdle, bra, shorts, camisole, underwear, leggings, sportswear such as spats, swimwear, leotards, compression underwear, etc., but also for various uses such as industrial materials and daily life materials. Can also be used.

Claims

A stretchable warp knitted fabric composed of inelastic yarns and elastic yarns, wherein the warp knitted fabric has a knitted structure in which the inelastic yarns and elastic yarns are looped, and the runner length of the inelastic yarns is 150 cm / rack or more and 300 cm / rack The runner length of the elastic yarn is 120 cm / rack or more and 200 cm / rack or less, the horizontal direction density is 30 pieces / inch or more and 55 pieces / inch or less, and the vertical direction density is 50 pieces / inch or more and 100 pieces / inch or less. A stretchable warp knitted fabric having a CF index of 10,000 to 24,000 and corresponding to a warp knitted fabric produced by a 10-22 gauge warp knitting machine.
The extension rate in either the vertical direction or the horizontal direction at a load of 14.7 N is 250% or more, and the average of the extension rates in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction is 200% or more. The stretch warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the index is 75% or more.
The stretch warp knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the single yarn fineness of the inelastic yarn is 1 dtex or more and 11 dtex or less.
The stretch warp knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein a mixing ratio of the elastic yarn is 10 to 40% by weight.
The stretch warp knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the elastic yarn is a polyurethane elastic yarn.
The stretchable warp knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the free cut property of the stretchable warp knitted fabric is a grade 3 or higher and a curl of 45 ° or less.
The stretch warp knitted fabric has a pilling of grade 3 or more in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction, and a dimensional change rate of -6.0% to + 2.0% in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction. The stretch warp knitted fabric according to any one of 6 to 6.
A garment characterized by using the stretch warp knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 7.