KR20100061881A - Cosmetic composition for promoting desquamation - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: A cosmetic composition containing alpha-hydroxy acid or urea and cactus flower extract is provided to remove dead cells on the skin and enhance activty of enzymes regarding desmosome decomposition. CONSTITUTION: A cosmetic composition for promoting skin peeling contains 0.05-5.0 weight% of alpha-hydroxy acid or 1.0-20.0 weight% of urea and 0.001-20.0 weight% of cactus flower extract as active ingredient. The alpha-hydroxy acid is lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid, or tartaric acid. The composition is used in the form of lotion, essence, cream, pack, gel, ointment, patch, or spray.

Description

Cosmetic composition for promoting keratin exfoliation {Cosmetic Composition for Promoting Desquamation}

The present invention relates to a keratin exfoliating cosmetic composition containing alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) or urea and zinnia flower extract, and more particularly, lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid, malic acid, Alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) or urea, such as tartaric acid, removes keratin from the outside of the skin, and chymotrypsin (SCCE), trypsin (SCTE), in which the extract of the perennial flower is involved in the decomposition of the body. It relates to a cosmetic composition that effectively removes skin keratin by increasing the activity of enzymes to promote skin keratin turnover.

The skin is like a membrane that surrounds many organs in the body and covers the entire surface of the body. It protects the organs of the body and maintains dynamic equilibrium with the organs of the body, protecting the internal organs. It is a kind. Generally, the skin is divided into three parts from the upper layer of skin: epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous fat layer.

Of these, the epidermis is subdivided into stratum corneum, granule layer, polar layer, and basal layer. Epidermal cells generated in basal layer rise up to granule layer over 14 days, and keratinahlin in the granule layer starts keratinization. As the body fluids in the cells have already escaped, the cells are flattened, and keratinization proceeds, and the nucleus, cytoplasm and organelles of the cells are degenerated and replaced by keratinalin and converted back into Eleidin, which is then replaced by keratin. The life of the cell ends and is pushed up to the stratum corneum. The stratum corneum consists of differentiated epidermal cells (skin cells) and the interstitial skin lipids that fill the gaps, which protect the body from outwards and protect the body from external physical, chemical and biological stimuli. Do it. Keratinocytes are connected by a protein called desmosome, and as they rise up the stratum corneum, desmosomes are broken down, weakening cohesion between keratinocytes and finally keratinocytes are separated from the skin. In normal skin, the stratum corneum consists of 15 to 20 layers, and it takes 15 to 20 days to separate completely.

However, as the skin ages, the epidermis, dermis, and subcutaneous tissue become thinner, the moisture content of the skin decreases drastically, and the skin loses its elasticity due to the change of the extracellular matrix (ECM) component that gives elasticity to the skin. Wrinkles may occur, and the separation of the stratum corneum will be later than normal, resulting in thickening of the stratum corneum (stratum corneum) and loss of vitality of the skin.

The stratum corneum stratification is mainly due to decreased skin moisturizing ability, decreased production and activity of desmosome degrading enzymes, decreased cell activity, and skin aging, UV exposure, and pollution. Artificially thinning the stratum corneum thickened by these internal and external factors from the outside artificially increases the activity or regeneration of living cells under the stratum corneum, resulting in softening of the skin, stimulating wrinkles, inhibiting the occurrence of acne, and treating. There is a lot of research to solve the keratin stratification within the range that is not possible.

To relieve keratinization, physically rub the skin or use chemical dermabrasion. In particular, chemical peels have additional effects such as fine wrinkles, rough skin relief and blemishes. Substances used for chemical peeling include trichloroacetic acid, phenol, and alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). However, the alpha hydroxy acid has a disadvantage of complaining of tingling due to low pH and causing irritation, and thus its use is limited.

The present inventors have conducted research to effectively remove dead skin cells without irritation, and found that a cosmetic composition containing alpha hydroxy acid or urea and zinnia flower extract having weak skin irritation has an excellent effect on exfoliation.

It is an object of the present invention to promote the exfoliation of the composition using alpha hydroxy acid or urea and baeknyeoncho flower extract has excellent improvement effect on exfoliation than conventional cosmetics and does not have skin irritation cosmetic composition for promoting exfoliation To provide.

In order to solve the above object, the cosmetic composition for promoting exfoliation of keratin may include the following means.

The cosmetic composition for promoting exfoliation according to an embodiment of the present invention contains an alpha hydroxy acid or urea and zinnia flower extract as an active ingredient.

In addition, the alpha hydroxy acid is characterized in that it can be formed of one selected from lactic acid (Lactic acid), citric acid (Citric acid), malic acid (Malic acid), tartaric acid (Tartaric acid).

The urea is 1.0 to 20.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, alpha-hydroxy acid is 0.05 to 5.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, baeknyeoncho flower extract is characterized in that it contains 0.001 to 20.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition do.

On the other hand, the baeknyeoncho flowers extract is characterized by enhancing the activity of chymotrypsin or trypsin enzyme.

As described above, the present invention is one or more of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) components or urea, such as lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, and urea The present invention relates to an exfoliating cosmetic composition containing a flower extract, wherein alpha hydroxy acid component or urea removes keratin from the outside of the skin, and the baeknyeoncho flower extract is involved in the breakdown of the cytoplasm. (SCTE) Enhances the activity of enzymes and promotes skin keratin turnover, effectively eliminating skin exfoliation.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

The cosmetic composition for promoting exfoliation according to an embodiment of the present invention contains an alpha hydroxy acid or urea and zinnia flower extract as an active ingredient.

First, alpha hydroxy acid is a substance used for chemical peeling, and alpha hydroxy acid is also effective in improving skin moisturizing, reducing fine wrinkles, treating and preventing acne, and many products have recently been released in the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries. Also in whitening products, it is used to remove melanin that has already been produced together with melanin production inhibitory substances for the purpose of enhancing the effect. Glycolic acid (MW = 76.05), which is a kind of alpha hydroxy acid, obtained from sugar cane, has the smallest molecular weight among alpha hydroxy acids, so the skin penetrates quickly and is effective. There is a problem that Peeling) is not made, so its use is limited. In general, alpha hydroxy acid has a disadvantage of complaining of stinging due to low pH and causing skin irritation, so its use is limited.

The alpha hydroxy acid used in the present invention may use various types of alpha hydroxy acids capable of removing keratin externally while having low skin irritation, but preferably, skin irritation obtained by fermented milk or enzyme reaction. Lactic acid (LW acid, MW = 90.08), citric acid (MW = 210.14), malic acid, tartaric acid (Tartaric acid) contained in large amounts in fruits such as lemon or orange, Preferably, lactic acid having excellent skin regeneration effect, moisture control effect and exfoliation effect and low skin irritation are suitable among alpha hydroxy acids.

The urea used in the present invention is safe for the skin and has excellent skin penetration effect and water retention ability of the stratum corneum, normalization of increased cell reactivation, antibacterial effect to suppress chronic eczema, and other moisturizing ingredients applied to the skin. It has been used in many functional cosmetic formulations as a substance having an action such as promoting the penetration of. In addition, it is distributed in various organs and body fluids of the human body is known to be harmless to the human body is a substance attracting attention in the pharmaceutical world.

The urea used in the present invention is a colorless or white crystalline or crystalline powder which is concentrated or separated in urine or industrially synthesized, and various known ones having weak bactericidal action, wound healing action and cell reactivation action can be used. .

The baeknyeoncho provided by the present invention is a plant having the scientific name of Opuntia ficus-indica L. var.saboten Makino among the cactus cultivated around Jeju Island. It is called as, and it is also called the Centennial on Jeju Island. It is a perennial plant, reaching 2m in height, forming a fan-shaped section, and elongating. Yellow flowers of 2-3cm bloom in May-June. Calyx leaves, petals, stamens are numerous, there is one pistil, and flowers are alive with nerves and get stained. As flowers bloom, they bear fruit in November, and both fruits and stems are used for food. Especially, baeknyeoncho has low salt and calories, dietary fiber content (cactus: 30%, cereals: 1.19 ~ 10.35%, vegetables: 0.99 ~ 7.42%, fruits: 0.19 ~ 2.19%) and calcium (cactus 2,086mg, cactus) Stem 4,391mg, persimmon 14mg, Darae 2-3mg, raw strawberry 13-20mg, beetle 5-8mg) contains a large amount to help the body development. In addition, the content of vitamin C is more than twice as much in the fruit than the stem of baeknyeoncho, and contains more than five times than the aloe (163.8mg% berry, stem: 712mg%, aloe: 33.2mg%), and has anti-aging and anticancer activity Phenolic and flavonoids also contain 5% (yield at 0.19%, altitude: 0.21%, rootroot: 2.21%, ginger: 1.67%, walnuts: 2.06%). In addition, baeknyeoncho has been widely used in folk remedies and herbal medicine since ancient times, and it is known to be effective in boils, burns, edema, bronchial asthma, sputum, and whooping cough in folk medicine, and has been used to alleviate constipation and ulcers, and is now diabetic. It is edible for the purpose of inhibiting, maintaining the stability of glucose in the body, and reducing cholesterol, and is also widely used as a diabetes treatment agent in Mexico. In addition, this plant is known to prevent Rheumatoid Arthritis and Osteoporosis, and it contains flavonoids and large amounts of vitamin C, which is used for anti-aging and skin care. Herbaceous wood). Recently, it has been reported that the baeknyeoncho ingredient has wound healing (Fitoterpia, 2001; 72: 165-167) or anti-inflammatory effect (Fitoterpia, 2001; 72: 288-290). A lot of health supplements using baeknyeoncho are also being developed, especially palm cactus powder tea and honey tea are also sold as Jeju's special agricultural products.

The baeknyeoncho provided by the present invention may use baeknyeoncho leaves, stems, berries, but is preferably suitable for promoting the activity of chymotrypsin and trypsin, which is excellent in extracting baeknyeoncho flowers.

The zinnia herb extract used in the present invention can be obtained using various extraction methods known in the art, and preferably, (a) water, (b) anhydrous or hydrous lower alcohol (methanol, Ethanol, propanol, butanol, etc.), (c) the mixed solvent of the lower alcohol and water, (d) acetone, (e) ethyl acetate, (f) chloroform or (g) 1,3-butylene glycol It can be obtained by.

On the other hand, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that the extract of the present invention can be obtained in addition to the above-described extraction solvents, extracts having substantially the same effect using other extraction solvents.

In addition, the extract of the present invention includes not only the extract by the above-described extraction solvent, but also the extract that has undergone a conventional purification process. Obtained by various additional purification methods, such as, for example, separation using ultrafiltration membranes having a constant molecular weight cut-off value, separation by various chromatography (manufactured for separation according to size, charge, hydrophobicity or affinity). The fraction is also included in the extract of the present invention.

Extracts of the present invention may be prepared in powder form by additional processes such as distillation under reduced pressure and freeze drying or spray drying.

In the cosmetic composition of the present invention, the alpha hydroxy acid preferably contains 0.05 to 5.0 wt% based on the total cosmetic composition. If it is less than 0.05%, the effect is insignificant, and if it is more than 5.0% by weight, the skin irritation is large and affects the stability of the formulation.

Urea preferably comprises 1.0 to 20.0% by weight based on the total cosmetic composition. If the amount is less than 1.0% by weight, the effect is insignificant. If it is more than 20.0% by weight, the stability of the product is poor and the effect is not increased so much.

In addition, the cosmetic composition of the present invention preferably comprises 0.001 to 20.0% by weight of the baeknyeoncho flower extract based on the total cosmetic composition. If it is less than 0.001 weight, the exfoliation promoting effect of the cosmetic composition is insignificant, and if it is added more than 20.0% by weight, the synergistic effect due to the over-injection is not economical. More preferably, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises 0.01 to 10.0% by weight of the extract, even more preferably 0.1 to 5.0% by weight.

In the cosmetic composition of the present invention, the urea or alpha hydroxy acid component removes keratin from the outside of the skin, and the extract of baeknyeoncho flowers from inside the skin is involved in the activity of chymotrypsin (SCCE) and trypsin (SCTE) enzymes. It effectively increases skin exfoliation by promoting skin exfoliation turnover.

The cosmetic composition containing the urea or alpha hydroxy acid and zinnia flower extract may be prepared in any formulation commonly prepared in the art, for example, lotion, essence, lotion, cream, pack, gel, ointment, It may be formed into a patch or a formulation of a spray, and in particular, soft cosmetics, astringent cosmetics, nourishing cosmetics, eye cream, nourishing cream, massage cream, cleansing cream, cleansing foam, cleansing water, powder, etc. Can be prepared depending on the formulation of the cosmetic or the purpose of use.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples. These examples are only for illustrating the present invention in more detail, it is to those skilled in the art that the scope of the present invention is not limited by these examples in accordance with the gist of the present invention. Will be self-evident.

Preparation Example 1: Preparation of zinnia herb extract

The zinnia flowers were washed with water, dried with a kitchen towel, dried, and then water was added 5 to 10 times by volume of the extraction solvent as an extraction solvent. It was heated at 70 ° C. for about 1 hour. Subsequently, the mixture was cooled and then cooled at room temperature, and then aged at low temperature at 4 ° C. for 7 days, followed by filtration, to prepare a baeknyeoncho flower extract. The leaves, stems and fruits of zinnia were also extracted in the same way.

Experimental Example 1: Chymotrypsin (SCCE) and Trypsin (SCTE) Enzymes Activity promoting effect

In order to determine the activity promoting effect of chymotrypsin enzyme and trypsin enzyme of baeknyeoncho flowers, leaves, stems, and fruit extracts prepared by Preparation Example 1, it was decided to use keratin sheets (D-Sqame ^ⓡ ). This method evaluates the percentage of residual desmoglein in the stratum corneum and helps to evaluate the degree of degradation of the desmoglen in the stratum corneum by trypsin and chymotrypsin enzymes, ie, keratin exfoliation. Low percentages of residual desmogloin indicate further enhanced activity of the enzymes described above (Br J Dermatol, 134, 3, 460-464, 1996., Arch Dermatol Res, 285, 6, 372-377, 1993). Keratin sheets are used for 20 healthy men 20 to 40 years of age (average age 29 years) to remove keratin using keratin sheets and for 30 seconds in a preservative and fungicide solution (containing 60 μl / ml of kanamycin and 0.5% NaN ₃ ). Soak it. Both sides of a 2 mg weight keratin sheet are applied with 5 μl of a 5% aqueous solution containing each of the baeknyeoncho flowers, leaves, stems and fruit extracts. Keratin applied as an aqueous solution containing no baeknyeoncho extract is used as a control. This keratin sheet is treated with the following procedure. The keratin sheets prepared in the above-described manner are left to stand at 37 ° C. for one week under conditions such that the keratin has a water content of 30% or less, in which decomposition of the collagen is insufficient. Then, each of the keratin sheets is extracted at 37 ° C. for 15 hours, using 0.5 ml of 0.1M Tris buffer (pH 9) containing 9M urea, 2% SDS and 1% mercaptoethanol. Then 0.7 ml sample buffer for SDS-PAGE (Twice Concentrated Laemmli Solution) is added to the resulting extract and heated for 15 minutes. 10 μl of this solution is taken and electrophoresed on a 7.5% concentration gel. After electrophoresis, the proteins are transcribed into PVDF membranes and immunologically stained with anti-desmogloin antibodies and alkaline phosphatase labeled secondary (anti-mouse lg) antibodies. The labeled protein is then visualized with NBT / BCIP substrate. Then, the amount of protein of interest is measured. The results are shown as averages and summarized in Table 1 below.

Test compound Percentage of Residual Desmogloin (%) Control 100.0 Zinnia Flower Extract 79.5 Zinnia Leaf Extract 89.6 Zinnia stem extract 90.8 Zinnia Fruit Extract 85.1

As can be seen in Table 1, baeknyeoncho flower extract was the most effective chymotrypsin (SCCE) and trypsin (SCTE) enzyme activity promoting effect. Therefore, the experiments were carried out using baeknyeoncho flower extract.

Preparation Example 2 Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2

In order to determine the extent of the skin keratin turnover effect, Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 were prepared according to a conventional method, in particular, the composition using lactic acid, which is a kind of alpha hydroxy acid. It is shown in Table 2.

ingredient
Content (% by weight) Example 1 Example 2 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 1.Vaseline 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 2.fluid paraffin 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 3. wax 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 4.Polysorbate-60 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 5.Solbitan sesquioleate 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 6.Squalane 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 7.propylene glycol 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 8.Glycerin 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 9.triethanolamine 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 10. Carboxyvinyl Polymer 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 11.Tocopherol Acetate 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 12.Purified water To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 13. Centennial Flower Extract 4.0 4.0 - - - 14.lactic acid 5.0 - 9.0 - - 15.Urea - 5.0 - 9.0 - 16.Scents and Preservatives a very small amount a very small amount a very small amount a very small amount a very small amount 17.pH regulator pH 5.0 pH 5.0 pH 5.0 pH 5.0 pH 5.0

Experimental Example 2: Skin keratin turnover promoting effect

To determine the extent of skin keratin turnover promoting effect by urea or lactic acid and zinnia flower extract, keratin exfoliation was performed on 30 healthy adults between 20 and 40 years old for Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3. Promotion effect was measured. The color of the inside of the upper arm of the test subject was measured with a chromameter (CR300, Minolta, Japan) before application of the sample, and 10% by weight of dihydroxy acetone (DHA) was added to the hill top chamber (manufactured by The Hill Top). 0.4ml was added and attached to the inner arm upper arm for 6 hours. After 24 hours, the color of the brown-colored area was measured by DHA to compare the color difference with that before the sample application. Thereafter, while applying the samples of Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 twice a day, the time taken to return to the original skin color was measured by measuring the degree of discoloration every day with a chromameter. Keratin peel rate was calculated by the following equation (1).

Keratin peel rate (%) = (TT of blank-TT at sample application) / TT of 100 of blank

*** TT (Turnover Time): The time it takes for the old stratum corneum to be replaced by the new stratum corneum (in this experiment, the time it takes for the skin colored by DHA to fully revert).

*** No treatment group ^* : No sample applied after staining with DHA Type of sample Turnover Time (days) Keratin exfoliation rate (%) No treatment group ^* 18.4 - Example 1 14.1 ± 3.5 21.57 Example 2 14.4 ± 3.6 20.94 Comparative Example 1 16.5 ± 3.1 15.10 Comparative Example 2 16.9 ± 3.2 14.24 Comparative Example 3 18.1 ± 3.9 4.31

As can be seen in Table 3, in Examples 1 and 2 containing the urea or alpha hydroxy acid component and baeknyeoncho flower extract, the turnover time, which is the time taken for the existing stratum corneum to be replaced by a new stratum corneum, is short and keratinous. Peeling rates of 21.57% and 20.94%, respectively, showed an excellent exfoliation effect compared to Comparative Examples 1 to 3.

Experimental Example 3: Usability Evaluation

In order to measure the degree of skin improvement for the products prepared according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1, 2 and 3, 50 women aged 17 to 40 years old were used in the foot for 1 week for each product. To prepare and the results are shown in Table 4. The test was conducted with the lowest score as 1 and the highest score as 5. The test results are shown in Table 4 below.

Item Example 1 Example 2 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Exfoliation effect 4.1 3.9 3.5 3.5 1.5 Keratin splitting effect 3.9 4.0 3.3 3.1 2.3 Soft when using 3.8 3.9 3.5 3.8 3.0 Moisturizing 4.2 4.1 3.7 3.8 2.4

As can be seen in Table 4, when using Examples 1 and 2, it was evaluated that the exfoliation effect, keratin cracking improvement effect, softness, moisturizing feeling better than Comparative Examples 1 to 3.

Experimental Example 4: Skin Patch Test

In order to determine the degree of skin irritation of the cosmetic composition containing the urea or alpha hydroxy acid of the present invention and zinnia herbaceous extract, safety tests were performed on Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3. Skin patch experiment was performed on 20 subjects (mean age 29 years, age distribution 23-39 years) using Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3. However, psoriasis, eczema, and other skin lesion holders, pregnant women, lactating or contraceptives, antihistamines, etc. were excluded from the experiment.

First, the test site was wiped with 70% ethanol, dried, and the prepared test substance was dropped in 15 µg each into a fin chamber (Finn chamber, 100x10, EPITEST, Finland), and then airtightly wrapped in the inner part of the subject's forearm. The patch was marked for 24 hours, the patch was removed, and the test site was marked with a pen. After 1 hour and 24 hours after the marking, the magnification (8MC-150, DAZOR, United States of America) was used to observe the test site, and erythema and edema were observed.

The skin response was determined according to the regulations of the International Contact Dermatitis Research Group (ICDRG), and the mean skin response rate was calculated according to Equation 2. The results are shown in Table 5.

* Evaluation criteria and score of skin reaction

sign score Evaluation standard - 0 No response ± 0.5 Dim turning light erythema + One Boundary but weak erythema, edema and papules ++ 2 Pronounced erythema, papules and vesicles +++ 3 Severe erythema and alveolar, scleroderma

Mean skin responsiveness (mean score) = (score × number of responses × 100 × 1/2) / [3 (maximum score) × total number of subjects (n)]

Test substance
After 1 hour After 24 hours Responsiveness (%)
(n = 20)
± + ++ ± + ++ Example 1 2 - - One - - 1.25 Example 2 2 - - One - - 1.25 Comparative Example 1 2 - - One - - 1.25 Comparative Example 2 2 - - One - - 1.25 Comparative Example 3 2 - - - - - 0.83

As can be seen in Table 5, it can be seen that the skin irritation of the cosmetic composition (Examples 1 and 2) of the present invention is very small.

Claims (5)

A cosmetic composition for promoting keratin exfoliation containing alpha hydroxy acid or urea and zinnia flowers as active ingredients. The cosmetic composition for promoting keratin exfoliation according to claim 1, wherein the alpha hydroxy acid is one selected from lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid and tartaric acid. According to claim 1, wherein the urea is 1.0 to 20.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, 0.05 to 5.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the alpha hydroxy acid composition, 0.001 to 20.0% by weight of the extract of the baeknyeoncho flowers Cosmetic composition for promoting keratin exfoliation, characterized in that it contains. The cosmetic composition for promoting exfoliation of skin according to claim 2, wherein the cosmetic composition enhances the activity of chymotrypsin or trypsin enzyme and reduces skin irritation. The cosmetic composition for promoting keratin exfoliation according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the cosmetic composition has a formulation of a lotion, an essence, a lotion, a cream, a pack, a gel, an ointment, a patch, or a spray. Composition.