JP7343885B2 - skin cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to skin cosmetics, and more specifically, the present invention relates to skin cosmetics that can improve skin dryness and accompanying rough skin, reduce fine wrinkles, improve skin firmness and elasticity, and have an excellent feel when used with less stickiness after application. Related to skin cosmetics.

Common signs of skin aging include dryness of the skin and skin roughness accompanied by peeling off of corneocytes, and phenomena such as wrinkles and sagging due to a decrease in skin firmness and elasticity. In particular, these phenomena that appear around the eyes and mouth are factors that give an impression of aging on the face. Suppressing and improving these complex signs of aging are extremely important as preventive care for various skin conditions that are aesthetically undesirable.

Various methods and cosmetics have been proposed to prevent these signs of aging. Examples include methods for gradual improvement. As a method to supplement the skin barrier function with moisturizing ingredients, for example, by adding highly hydrating moisturizing ingredients such as polyhydric alcohols and sugars, and oils with high skin occlusion properties such as liquid paraffin and ester oils, skin moisture evaporation is prevented. It is common practice to adjust the amount. However, although the above-mentioned conventional technologies all have certain effects as skin cosmetics for the purpose of improving skin roughness, all of the methods to supplement the skin barrier function with moisturizing ingredients are limited to the skin moisture retention ability (moisturization after a certain period of time). (effect) is not sufficient, and the keratin-improving effect is also low.Furthermore, when using an oil-based occlusive agent, it has the disadvantage of feeling oily and sticky after application. In order to achieve a certain effect, large amounts of moisturizing ingredients and oils must be added, and as a result, many products tend to have a strong sticky feel, and the feel after application does not satisfy the user. .

In addition, methods for improving skin function itself rather than increasing skin occlusion with cosmetics include, for example, improving rough skin by suppressing the production and/or release of stem cell factors by incorporating various plant extracts. External skin preparations (for example, see Patent Document 1) have been proposed. However, although topical skin preparations that suppress the production and/or release of these stem cell factors can improve rough skin with long-term use, they can also cause various signs of aging such as improvement in fine wrinkles and firmness and elasticity of the skin. It did not have the effect of deterring or improving the situation.

Furthermore, for the purpose of reducing stickiness during application and improving the sustainability of the moisturizing effect, an external skin preparation that combines polyoxyethylene coconut oil fatty acid glycerin and mucopolysaccharide containing hyaluronic acid has been proposed (for example, see Patent Document 2). ing. However, although external skin preparations that combine polyoxyethylene coconut oil fatty acid glycerin and mucopolysaccharide containing hyaluronic acid have a long-term moisturizing effect and reduce stickiness when applied, they do not contain various plant extracts. Similar to cosmetics that improve rough skin by inhibiting the production and/or release of stem cell factors, this product did not prevent or improve various signs of aging, such as improving fine wrinkles or improving skin firmness and elasticity. .

On the other hand, external skin preparations that suppress and improve various signs of aging include skin preparations that contain a phosphodiester complex of α-hydroxy acid and retinol (see, for example, Patent Document 3); Skin cosmetics containing extracts from exfoliated cantaloupe (see, for example, Patent Document 4), skin preparations for external use characterized by containing extracts of placenta from gramineous plants (for example, see Patent Document 5) ) has been proposed. However, although external skin preparations containing a phosphodiester complex of α-hydroxy acid and retinol have the effect of improving wrinkles and increasing skin elasticity, they do not have a long-lasting moisturizing effect or Although skin cosmetics that do not have sufficient skin-improving effects or that contain extracts from peeled cantaloupe have the effect of improving wrinkles, increasing skin elasticity, and having a long-lasting moisturizing effect, they may cause irritation to rough skin. There are some skin preparations that do not have sufficient improvement effects or contain placenta extracts from grasses, but although they have skin improvement effects and skin elasticity increasing effects, they do not last long. It did not have a sufficient moisturizing effect or wrinkle improvement, and it could not be said to be an external skin preparation that could prevent or improve complex signs of aging.

The aging phenomenon of the skin does not occur as a single event, but rather as a complex of skin changes that occur and progress. Therefore, it is not only effective for moisturizing and improving wrinkles, but also for maintaining skin moisture. It has the effect of improving complex signs of aging, such as improving the skin's ability to moisturize (moisturizing effect after a certain period of time), improving the skin's barrier function to recover from rough skin, reducing fine lines, and improving skin firmness and elasticity. However, there has been a strong desire for skin cosmetics that are not sticky and have an excellent feel when used.

Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 2006-056902 Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 2004-238334 Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 8-73312 Patent No. 4351997 Patent No. 4025600

An object of the present invention is to provide a skin cosmetic that can improve skin dryness and accompanying rough skin, reduce fine wrinkles, and improve skin firmness and elasticity, and is less sticky after application.

In view of the above problems, the present inventors conducted intensive research and found that melon placenta extract, hyaluronic acid and its salts, collagen hydrolyzate, and ceramide, all of which have been reported to have moisturizing effects, were selected. By combining one or more ingredients that enhance the skin's moisturizing function with one or more anti-aging ingredients selected from retinol and its derivatives, royal jelly extract, and scutellaria root extract, the synergistic effect is achieved. The present inventors have discovered that the above-mentioned problems can be solved by improving the functionality of the invention, and have completed the present invention.

The first invention of the present application is a skin cosmetic characterized by containing the following components (A) to (C).
(A) Melon placenta extract (B) One or more types selected from hyaluronic acid and its salts, collagen hydrolyzate, and ceramide (C) Retinol and its derivatives, royal jelly extract, and Scutellaria root extract One or more selected types

The second invention of the present application provides the moisturizing function, rough skin improvement effect, and fine wrinkle improvement effect of the skin cosmetic by adding melon placenta extract to the skin cosmetic containing the following ingredients (B) and (C). , and a method for improving skin firmness and elasticity.
(B) One or more types selected from hyaluronic acid and its salts, collagen hydrolysates, and ceramides (C) One or more types selected from retinol and its derivatives, royal jelly extract, and Scutellaria root extract.

According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a skin cosmetic that can improve skin dryness and accompanying rough skin, reduce fine wrinkles, and improve skin firmness and elasticity, and is less sticky after application.

The present invention will be explained in detail below.

The melon placenta extract (A) used in the skin cosmetics of the present invention is an extract extracted from the placenta of melon (Cucumis melo).

Component (A) used in the present invention, as it is or after pulverization, can be water, lower alcohols such as ethanol, polyhydric alcohols such as propylene glycol and 1,3-butylene glycol, polyhydric alcohol alkyl ethers such as diethylene glycol ether, and other It can be obtained by extraction with a polar solvent or a mixture thereof, but is not limited thereto.

The amount of (A) melon placenta extract used in the skin cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.001 to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.01 to 1% by mass in the total composition. If it is less than 0.001% by mass, sufficient wrinkle-improving effects and effects of inhibiting signs of aging cannot be obtained, and if it exceeds 5% by mass, stickiness may occur or the stability of the formulation may be impaired.

The one or more selected from (B) hyaluronic acid and its salts, collagen hydrolysates, and ceramides used in the skin cosmetics of the present invention generally enhance the moisturizing function of the skin by itself. Although it is known, when combined with component (A), it is possible to synergistically maintain the moisture of the skin. The combination and type of these ingredients are not particularly limited as long as they are commonly used in cosmetics or medicines, and commercially available products can be used. The origins of these components are not particularly limited; for example, hyaluronic acid and its salts may be derived from cockscomb or fermentation, and ceramide may be derived from animals or plants, for example.

The amount of (B) hyaluronic acid and its salts and collagen hydrolyzate used in the skin cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.01 to 1% by mass, more preferably 0.1% by mass based on the total composition. ~0.5% by mass.

The amount of ceramide used in the skin cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.0001 to 0.005% by mass in terms of solid content. If the blending amount is less than the lower limit, a sufficient moisturizing function and rough skin improvement effect cannot be obtained, and if the blending amount exceeds the upper limit, stickiness or deposits such as grime may occur.

(C) One or more selected from retinol and its derivatives, royal jelly extract, and scutellariae root extract used in the skin cosmetics of the present invention generally has an active oxygen removal effect by itself. However, when combined with component (A), it can synergistically enhance the anti-aging effect on the skin (improving fine wrinkles and improving skin firmness and elasticity).

The amount of retinol and its derivatives used in the skin cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.0001 to 0.01% by mass based on the total composition. If it is less than 0.0001% by mass, sufficient anti-aging effects (effects to improve fine wrinkles, skin firmness and elasticity) cannot be obtained, and if it exceeds 0.01% by mass, irritation to the skin may occur.

The amount of royal jelly extract and Scutellaria root extract used in the skin cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.001 to 1% by mass, more preferably 0.1 to 0.5% by mass based on the total composition. It is. If it is less than 0.001% by mass, sufficient anti-aging effects (improving fine wrinkles, skin firmness and elasticity) will not be obtained, and if it exceeds 1% by mass, it may cause problems with the stability of the formulation, such as stickiness or discoloration. It may be damaged.

The skin cosmetic of the present invention has the above-mentioned components as essential components, but the composition may also contain other components such as anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, etc., to the extent that the object of the present invention is not impaired. Active agents, nonionic surfactants, oils, polymer compounds, thickeners, powders (dyes, resins, pigments), preservatives, fragrances, humectants, physiologically active ingredients, salts, solvents, antioxidants, Components such as a chelating agent, a pearling agent, a neutralizing agent, a pH adjuster, an insect repellent, and an enzyme can be appropriately blended.

Further, the skin cosmetic composition of the present invention may appropriately contain physiologically active ingredients within a range that does not impair the purpose of the present invention. Physiologically active substances are substances that give some kind of physiological activity to the skin when applied to the skin, such as anti-aging agents, ultraviolet protection agents, tightening agents, antioxidants, humectants, blood circulation promoters, antibacterial agents, Examples include bactericidal agents, desiccants, cooling agents, warming agents, vitamins, amino acids, wound healing promoters, irritation relievers, analgesics, cell activators, enzyme components, and the like.

Furthermore, the types of physiologically active ingredients that can be incorporated into the skin cosmetics of the present invention are not particularly limited, but it is preferable to use extracts derived from roots, stems, leaves, flowers, fruits, and seeds of plants. Examples of extracts derived from roots, stems, leaves, flowers, fruits, and seeds of plants include Angelica extract, Avocado extract, Amacha extract, Althea extract, Arnica extract, Aloe extract, Japanese knotweed extract, Fennel extract, and Eizu extract. extract, barley extract, hypericum extract, persimmon extract, cuckoo extract, chamomilla extract, carot extract, licorice extract, raspberry extract, kiwi extract, cucumber extract, kyonin extract, quince seed extract, brown sugar extract, rice bran extract, rice bran fermentation extract, sugar maple extract, Sugarcane extract, perilla extract, peony extract, honeysuckle extract, hypericum perforatum extract, hawthorn extract, elderberry extract, sage extract, soybean extract, thyme extract, tea extract, camellia extract, asiatica extract, dokudami extract, tomato extract, wild rose extract, hamamelis water, Examples include rose extract, Parietaria extract, loquat extract, grape extract, loofah extract, button extract, hop extract, Sapindium extract, peach leaf extract, cornflower extract, Japanese cabbage extract, lemon extract, rosemary extract, Roman chamomile extract, and the like.

The skin cosmetic of the present invention can be manufactured according to conventional methods. Furthermore, the skin cosmetics of the present invention include basic cosmetics, makeup cosmetics, body cosmetics, and the like. The dosage form can also be arbitrarily selected depending on the purpose. That is, examples include liquid, cream, gel, emulsion, sheet, stick, aerosol, and the like. The skin cosmetics of the present invention are not limited to general cosmetics, but include quasi-drugs, designated quasi-drugs, external medicines, and the like.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically explained by illustrating Examples and Comparative Examples, but the present invention is not limited to these Examples in any way. Prior to the examples, the test methods and evaluation methods employed in each example will be explained.

<Moisturizing effect test>
(Evaluation method)
The five evaluation panelists washed their entire faces with soap, and after acclimating for 20 minutes in an environment with a temperature of 25°C and a relative humidity of 50%, 0.05 mL/0.05 mL of the skin cosmetic of the present invention was applied to the corner of the eyes. cm ² was applied. After application, the skin was acclimated for 60 minutes at a temperature of 25° C. and a relative humidity of 50%, and then the stratum corneum moisture content (conductance value) was measured using a Corneometer (MPA580, manufactured by Courage+Khazaka). The moisturizing effect was evaluated based on the following criteria by calculating the moisturizing effect (%) using the following calculation formula and finding the average value of 5 people.
Moisturizing effect (%) = (keratin moisture content 1 hour after application/keratin moisture content before application) x 100
(Evaluation criteria)
◎: Moisturizing effect (%) was 140% or more ○: Moisturizing effect (%) was 120% or more and less than 140% △: Moisturizing effect (%) was 100% or more and less than 120% ×: Moisturizing effect (%) was less than 100%

<Test on improving fine wrinkles due to dryness at the corners of the eyes>
(Evaluation method)
A test was conducted for 4 weeks on three evaluation panelists, in which they applied an appropriate amount of the skin cosmetic of the present invention to the corner of one eye twice a day, and an appropriate amount of pure water to the corner of the other eye. Replicas of wrinkles at the corners of the eyes before and after repeated use were collected from around the left and right eyes with the eyes slightly closed using SILFLO (registered trademark) (manufactured by FLEXICO DEVEROPMENTS). The three-dimensional shape of the sampled replica was measured using a non-contact 3D measuring device PRIMOS Lite (manufactured by GFMesstechnik). The fine wrinkle improvement effect was evaluated based on the following criteria by calculating the fine wrinkle improvement effect (%) using the following formula and finding the average value for the three subjects.
Fine wrinkle improvement effect (%) = (Average depth of total wrinkles on the corners of the eyes to which pure water has been applied after continuous use/Average depth of total wrinkles in the corners of the eyes to which pure water has been applied before continuous use) x 100 - (Skin of the present invention) Average depth of total wrinkles at the corners of the eyes to which the cosmetic was applied after repeated use/average depth of total wrinkles before continuous use at the corners of the eyes to which the skin cosmetic of the present invention was applied) x 100
(Evaluation criteria)
◎: The fine wrinkle improvement effect (%) was 20% or more. ○: The fine wrinkle improvement effect (%) was 10% or more and less than 20%. △: The fine wrinkle improvement effect (%) was 5% or more and less than 10%. ×: Fine wrinkle improvement effect (%) was less than 5%

<Rough skin improvement test>
(Evaluation method)
Five expert panelists washed the inner side of their forearms with soap, and then acclimated for 20 minutes in an environment with a temperature of 25° C. and a relative humidity of 50%, and then measured the transpiration of keratin water (TEWL). Thereafter, 0.1 mL/cm ² of the skin cosmetic of the present invention was applied. After application, the skin was acclimatized for 60 minutes in an environment with a temperature of 25° C. and a relative humidity of 50%, and then the transpiration of stratum corneum (TEWL) was measured again. The rough skin improvement effect was evaluated based on the following criteria by calculating the rough skin improvement effect (%) using the following formula and finding the average value of the five participants.
Rough skin improvement effect (%) = {1 - (Amount of transpiration of keratin moisture 1 hour after application/Amount of transpiration of keratin moisture before application)} x 100
(Evaluation criteria)
◎: The skin improvement effect (%) was 40% or more. ○: The skin improvement effect (%) was 20% or more and less than 40%. △: The skin improvement effect (%) was 10% or more and 20%. ×: The rough skin improvement effect (%) was less than 10%.

<Skin firmness/elasticity improvement test>
(Evaluation method)
Five expert panels were asked to wash the inner part of their forearm with soap, then acclimatize for 20 minutes in an environment with a temperature of 25°C and relative humidity of 50%, and then apply 0.1 mL/ml of the skin cosmetic of the present invention to their cheeks. cm ² was applied. After application, the skin was acclimatized for 60 minutes at a temperature of 25°C and a relative humidity of 50%, and then the viscoelasticity of the skin was measured using a Cutometer (MPA580, manufactured by Courage+Khazaka). The skin firmness/elasticity improvement effect was evaluated based on the following criteria by calculating the firmness/elasticity improvement effect (%) using the following formula and finding the average value of the five participants.
Firmness/elasticity improvement effect (%) = (Skin elasticity 60 minutes after application/Skin elasticity before application) x 100
(Evaluation criteria)
◎: The effect of improving firmness and elasticity (%) was 107% or more. ○: The effect of improving firmness and elasticity (%) was 105% or more and less than 107%. △: The effect of improving firmness and elasticity (%) was 100%. ×: The firmness/elasticity improvement effect (%) was less than 100%.

<Non-stickiness evaluation test>
(Evaluation method)
Five expert panelists applied the skin cosmetic of the present invention to the inner side of the forearm and lightly blended it with their fingers, and evaluated the "stickiness" 1 minute later. The test results were judged according to the following evaluation criteria using the number of people who answered that the product was sticky.
(Evaluation criteria)
◎: 0 panelists agreed that it was sticky ○: 1 panelist agreed that it was sticky △: 2 to 4 panelists agreed that it was sticky ×: 4 panelists agreed that it was sticky name or 5 people

<Examples 1 to 15 and Comparative Examples 1 to 8>
Skin cosmetics in the formulations of Examples 1 to 15 and Comparative Examples 1 to 8 shown in Tables 1 and 2 were prepared by conventional methods and evaluated by various test methods. The results are also shown in Tables 1 and 2.

As is clear from Tables 1 and 2, the skin cosmetics of Examples using the ingredients of the present invention all had excellent performance. On the other hand, comparative examples lacking any of the essential ingredients were inferior in any of the following aspects: moisturizing effect, rough skin improvement effect, fine wrinkle improvement effect, skin firmness/elasticity improvement effect, and lack of stickiness. could not achieve its purpose.

Other formulation examples of the present invention are listed below as Example 16 and Example 17. Regarding the skin cosmetics of these examples, we examined each item regarding the moisturizing effect, the effect of improving rough skin, the effect of improving fine wrinkles, the effect of improving skin firmness and elasticity, and the lack of stickiness. The examples also had excellent characteristics and were good.

Example 16
(1) Ethanol 3.0%
(2) Dipropylene glycol 3.0%
(3) Glycerin 10.0%
(4) Sorbitol 1.0%
(5) Carboxyvinyl polymer 0.2%
(6) Potassium hydroxide 0.06%
(7) Xanthan gum 0.2%
(8) POE (60) Hydrogenated castor oil 0.3%
(9) EDTA-2Na 0.01%
(10) Water-soluble collagen 0.1%
(11) Hyaluronate Na 0.1%
(12) Melon placenta extract 0.2%
(13) Vitamin A oil 0.0001%
(14) Royal jelly extract 0.1%
(15) Aloe extract 0.1%
(16) Cucumber fruit extract 0.1%
(17) Althea extract 0.01%
(18) Sage extract 0.01%
(19) Fennel extract 0.01%
(20) Centella asiatica extract 0.01%
(21) Grape leaf extract 0.01%
(22) Rosemary leaf extract 0.01%
(23) Tea leaf extract 0.01%
(24) Bilberry fruit extract 0.001%
(25) Japanese knotweed root extract 0.001%
(26) Sugarcane extract 0.001%
(27) Lemon fruit extract 0.01%
(28) Orange fruit extract 0.01%
(29) Methylparaben 0.1%
(30) Phenoxyethanol 0.2%
(31) Purified water remainder

(Manufacturing method)
Add (3) to (6) and (9) to (31) and dissolve (Liquid A). After dissolving (8), (13), (29), and (30) in (1), they are gradually added to liquid A and uniformly dispersed (liquid B). Disperse (7) in (2), slowly add to liquid B and mix, then add (10) to (12) and (14) to (28) and disperse uniformly to prepare a skin cosmetic. Prepared.

Example 17
(1) Stearic acid 1.0%
(2) Behenyl alcohol 2.0%
(3) Glyceryl monostearate 2.0%
(4) Mineral oil 3.0%
(5) Vaseline 0.1%
(6) Myristic sanoctyldodecyl 5.0%
(7) Dimethicone 0.05%
(8) Sodium stearoylglutamate 2.0%
(9) Dipropylene glycol 6.0%
(10) Methylparaben 0.2%
(11) EDTA-2Na 0.05%
(12) Carboxyvinyl polymer 0.2%
(13) Melon placenta extract 0.2%
(14) Ceramide (derived from yuzu fruit, calculated as solid content) 0.0002%
(15) Lotus seed fermentation liquid 0.01%
(16) Royal jelly extract 0.2%
(17) Scutellaria root extract 0.1%
(18) Soybean seed extract 0.05%
(19) Folic acid 0.001%
(20) Chamomile flower extract 0.001%
(21) Cornflower flower extract 0.001%
(22) Arnica flower extract 0.001%
(23) Roman chamomile flower extract 0.001%
(24) Fuyubodaiju flower extract 0.001%
(25) Calendula flower extract 0.001%
(26) Rose water 0.003%
(27) Hamamelis leaf extract 0.025%
(28) Tea leaf extract 0.025%
(29) Grape leaf extract 0.025%
(30) Peach leaf extract 0.025%
(31) Algae extract 0.05%
(32) Hypericum perforatum flower/leaf/stem extract 0.001%
(33) Peony root extract 0.01%
(34) Hop extract 0.01%
(35) Purified water remainder

(Manufacturing method)
Add (8) to (34) to (35) sequentially with stirring and heat until uniformly dissolved. Add to heated and dissolved (1) to (7) and disperse uniformly, then cool. A skin cosmetic was prepared.

Claims (2)

A skin cosmetic characterized by containing the following components (A) to (C).
(A) Melon placenta extract 0.5 % by mass or less (B) Hyaluronic acid and its salts 0.5% by mass or less, collagen hydrolyzate 0.5% by mass or less, ceramide 0.005% by mass or less (C) One or more types selected from 0.01% by mass or less of retinol and its derivatives, 0.5% by mass or less of royal jelly extract, and 0.5% by mass or less of Scutellaria root extract. By adding 0.5 % by mass or less of melon placenta extract to a skin cosmetic containing the following ingredients (B) and (C), the moisturizing function of the skin cosmetic, the effect of improving rough skin, the effect of improving fine wrinkles, and methods to improve skin firmness and elasticity.
(B) One or more types selected from hyaluronic acid and its salts at most 0.5% by mass, collagen hydrolysates at most 0.5% by mass, and ceramides at most 0.005% by mass (C) Retinol and its derivatives One or more types selected from 0.01% by mass or less, royal jelly extract 0.5% by mass or less, and Scutellaria root extract 0.5% by mass or less