JP7214360B2 - Stable composition containing degradable or disintegrable granules or aggregates - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a stable composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising degradable or degradable granules or aggregates.

There have been cosmetics containing granules. For example, compositions containing granules such as particles for scrubbing are commonly used for cleansing skin such as facial skin.

JP-A-2017-52706 discloses a composition comprising particles that meet certain shape requirements and can be used for massaging or washing skin, such as facial skin. The compositions disclosed in JP-A-2017-52706 are typically suitable for leave-off cosmetics such as skin cleansing products.

JP-A-2017-52706 U.S. Patent No. 4,465,702 U.S. Patent No. 5,037,929 U.S. Patent No. 5,131,953 U.S. Patent No. 5,149,799 U.S. Patent No. 3,137,592 U.S. Patent No. 2,528,378 U.S. Patent No. 2,781,354 U.S. Patent No. 4,874,554 U.S. Patent No. 4,137,180 US-A-5364633 US-A-5411744

Chapter XXII- "Production and Use of Pregelatinized Starch", Starch: Chemistry and Technology, Vol. III-Industrial Aspects, R. L. Whistler and E. F. Paschall, Editors, Academic Press, New York 1967 Walter Noll, "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academic Press Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook, 15th Edition, 2014 CTFA Dictionary, 3rd Edition, 1982 CTFA Dictionary, 5th Edition, 1993 "Handbook of Surfactants", M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178.

However, granules such as particles for scrubbing in leave-off cosmetics such as conventional skin cleansing products do not disintegrate or disappear when used. Therefore, when it is used in a leave-on cosmetic such as, for example, a leave-on skin care product, after the leave-on cosmetic is applied onto a keratinous substance such as skin, the granules remain on the keratinous substance, giving it a powdery feel and the like. give a feeling of nothing. It can also result in an uneven or uneven finish, which is undesirable for leave-on cosmetics.

It is also preferred that the cosmetic composition is stable so that the appearance of the composition does not change over time, even under hot temperature conditions.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a stable composition that can contain degradable or degradable granules or aggregates and that can be preferably used in leave-on cosmetics.

The purpose of the above is
(a) at least one selected from gellan gum and derivatives thereof;
(b) at least one selected from salicylic acid and derivatives thereof;
(c) at least one selected from starch and derivatives thereof; and
(d) a stable composition comprising water,
This can be achieved by a composition in which components (a)-(c) are capable of forming degradable or degradable granules or aggregates.

The derivative of gellan gum may be welan gum.

The amount of component (a) in the composition is 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. There may be.

Derivatives of salicylic acid can be selected from compounds of formula (I).

During the ceremony,
R ₁ represents hydrogen or a saturated linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic hydrocarbon group, or an alkoxy, ester or ketoxy group, or an unsaturated group having at least one conjugated or nonconjugated double bond , these groups may contain from 1 to 22 carbon atoms and are optionally esterified with halogen atoms, trifluoromethyl groups, and acids in free form or having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. optionally substituted with at least one substituent selected from hydroxyl groups;
R ₂ represents a hydroxyl group or an ester group of formula (II)

(In the formula,
R ₄ represents a saturated aliphatic hydrocarbon group or an alkenyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms);
R ₃ represents hydrogen or a saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched aliphatic hydrocarbon group having 1 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally containing one or more of the above substituents.

The amount of component (b) in the composition is 0.01% to 2%, preferably 0.05% to 1%, more preferably 0.1% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. There may be.

Derivatives of starch can be selected from the group consisting of esterified starches and ether starches.

The amount of component (c) in the composition is 0.01% to 10%, preferably 0.1% to 5%, more preferably 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. There may be.

The amount of (d) water in the composition is 40% to 95% by weight, preferably 50% to 90% by weight, more preferably 60% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. There may be.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one natural gum other than component (a), preferably xanthan gum.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one oil.

The amount of oil in the composition may be from 0.01% to 30%, preferably from 0.1% to 20%, more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. good.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one surfactant, preferably selected from nonionic surfactants.

The amount of surfactant in the composition is 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. may

A composition according to the invention may be in the form of an O/W emulsion.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for keratinous substances, comprising applying a composition according to the invention to keratinous substances, preferably to the skin.

After extensive research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a stable composition that can contain degradable or degradable granules or aggregates.

Accordingly, the composition according to the invention is
(a) at least one selected from gellan gum and derivatives thereof;
(b) at least one selected from salicylic acid and derivatives thereof;
(c) at least one selected from starch and derivatives thereof; and
(d) contains water;
The composition is stable and
In the composition, components (a)-(c) can form granules or aggregates that can decompose or disappear.

A composition according to the invention may comprise degradable or degradable granules or aggregates. The terms "granules" and "agglomerates" are used herein to refer to aggregates of fine material, such aggregates being deformable by the application of physical action such as shear and heating. "Granules" and "agglomerates" as used herein do not mean hard particles such as fillers and pigments.

The granules or agglomerates in the composition according to the invention can be broken up or dissipated, for example, by finger application onto a keratinous material such as the skin. Thus, compositions according to the invention can provide a uniform or even finish. Accordingly, the compositions according to the invention can preferably be used in leave-on cosmetics for keratinous substances.

Compositions according to the invention can also provide a comfortable feel. Also, the composition according to the present invention can prevent or reduce stickiness. Accordingly, the compositions according to the invention are suitable for skin cosmetics such as skin care and skin make-up products.

The compositions according to the invention are so stable that the appearance of the composition does not change for extended periods of time, for example at least several months, at room temperature or even under elevated (hot) temperature conditions. For example, when the composition according to the invention comprises oil and water, phase separation of oily and aqueous phases can be prevented or reduced. Therefore, the composition according to the invention can maintain a uniform appearance over time.

Addition of natural gums other than component (a) selected from gellan gum and derivatives thereof to the composition according to the present invention can improve or accelerate the disintegration or disappearance of granules or aggregates.

The composition according to the present invention will now be described in detail.

[Gellan gum and its derivatives]
The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one component selected from gellan gum and derivatives thereof. When two or more components (a) are used, they may be the same or different.

Gellan gum is a polysaccharide produced by aerobic fermentation of Sphingomonas elodea (more commonly known as Pseudomonas elodea). This linear polysaccharide contains sequences of the following monosaccharides: D-glucose, D-glucuronic acid, and L-rhamnose. In its native state, gellan gum is highly acylated.

Gellan gum used in various embodiments of compositions according to the present invention may be at least partially deacylated gellan gum. This at least partially deacylated gellan gum can be obtained by hot alkali treatment, such as in KOH or NaOH solution. For example, purified gellan gum sold by Kelco under the trade name Kelcogel® may be suitable for preparing compositions according to the invention.

Derivatives of gellan gum can be obtained by carrying out standard chemical reactions such as esterification or addition of salts of organic or inorganic acids. Welan gum is an example of a gellan gum derivative that can be used in the present invention. Welan gum is gellan gum modified by fermentation with Alcaligenes strain ATCC31555. Welan gum has a repeating pentasaccharide structure formed from a backbone composed of D-glucose, D-glucuronic acid and L-rhamnose units, to which pendant units of L-rhamnose or L-mannose are grafted. It is Welan gum sold by the company Kelco under the trade name Kelco Crete® may be suitable for preparing compositions according to the invention.

The amount of component (a) in the composition according to the invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of component (a) in the composition according to the invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of component (a) in the composition according to the invention is 0.01% to 10%, preferably 0.1% to 5%, more preferably 0.5% to 3%, relative to the total weight of the composition. % by mass.

[Salicylic acid and its derivatives]
The composition according to the invention comprises (b) at least one component selected from salicylic acid and its derivatives. When more than one component (b) is used, they may be the same or different.

Salicylic acid is a compound represented by the following chemical formula.

The derivative of salicylic acid can be selected from compounds represented by the following formula (I) or salts thereof.

During the ceremony,
R ₁ represents hydrogen or a saturated linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic hydrocarbon group, or an alkoxy, ester or ketoxy group, or an unsaturated group having at least one conjugated or nonconjugated double bond , these groups may contain from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, halogen atoms, trifluoromethyl groups, and hydroxyls in free form or esterified with acids having from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms. optionally substituted with at least one substituent selected from the group;
R ₂ represents a hydroxyl group or an ester of formula (II)

(In the formula,
R ₄ represents a saturated aliphatic hydrocarbon group or an alkenyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms);
R ₃ is hydrogen or a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched aliphatic having 2 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally containing one or more substituents such as those listed above represents a group hydrocarbon group.

Preferred as R ₃ are alkyl and alkenyl groups containing from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, which are optionally substituted.

Preferred substituents are hydroxyl groups.

When R ₃ is hydrogen, salts of compounds of formula (I) can be used, especially salts obtained by reaction with bases. Suitable bases include alkali metal hydroxides (sodium and potassium hydroxide), ammonium hydroxide, organic bases such as primary, secondary, tertiary or cyclic organic amines, and amino acids. Specific examples of bases include glycine, lysine, arginine, taurine, histidine, alanine, valine, cysteine, trihydroxymethylaminomethane (TRISTA) and triethanolamine.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is prepared using a derivative of formula (I), wherein R ₁ contains at least 4 carbon atoms. For example, R ₁ can be a saturated linear alkyl or alkoxy group having 4 to 11 carbon atoms.

Derivatives of formula (I) (wherein R ₂ is hydroxyl and R ₃ is hydrogen) include 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (CTFA name: capryloylsalicylic acid), 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid , 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-octylsalicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 5-tert-octylsalicylic acid, 5-butoxysalicylic acid, 5-ethoxysalicylic acid, 5-methoxysalicylic acid, 5-propoxysalicylic acid , 5-methylsalicylic acid, 5-ethylsalicylic acid and 5-propylsalicylic acid (optionally treated with a base).

When R ₁ represents hydrogen and R ₂ represents a hydroxyl group, the derivative of formula (I) is a salicylate. Preferred compounds include esters of fatty alcohols such as dodecyl, hexadecyl, stearyl, cetyl, myristyl, linoleyl, octyl, oleyl and tridecyl alcohols, or esters of butyl, propyl and ethyl alcohols, or propylene glycol, butylene glycol, ethylene glycol. or esters of polyols such as glycerol, or mixtures of these esters. Specific examples include cetyl salicylate, dodecyl salicylate and tridecyl salicylate.

The amount of component (b) in the composition according to the invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of component (b) in the composition according to the invention may be 2% by weight or less, preferably 1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of component (b) in the composition according to the invention is 0.01% to 2%, preferably 0.05% to 1%, more preferably 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. % by mass.

[Starch and its derivatives]
The composition according to the invention comprises (c) at least one component selected from starch and its derivatives. When more than one component (c) is used, they may be the same or different.

The nature of the starch used in the present invention may vary widely and may be derived from any natural source. Typical natural sources of starch are cereals, tubers, roots, pods and nuts. Natural sources can be corn, peas, potatoes, sweet potatoes, bananas, barley, wheat, rice, sago, amaranth, tapioca, arrowroot, canna, oats, sorghum, and waxy or high amylose varieties thereof. Thus, the starches used in the present invention include corn starch, pea starch, potato starch, sweet potato starch, banana starch, barley starch, wheat starch, rice starch, sago starch, amaranth starch, tapioca starch, arrowroot starch, canna starch, oats. It can be selected from the group consisting of starch, sorghum starch, and waxy or high amylose varieties thereof. As used herein, the term "high amylose" is intended to include starches containing at least about 40% by weight amylose. Preferably, the starch is selected from the group consisting of corn starch, rice starch and potato starch.

Starch derivatives may be chemically or physically modified starches as described above. For example, processes that can be applied to starch include oxidation, hydrogenation, enzymatic conversion, water or acid hydrolysis, thermal and/or acid dextrinization, cationization, esterification, etherification, grafting, pregelatinization, halogenation. and combinations thereof. Thus, starch derivatives that may be used in the present invention include, for example, hydrogenated starches, hydrolyzed starches such as hydrolyzed wheat starch, hydrogenated starch hydrolysates, and oxidized starches.

In one embodiment of the invention, the starch derivative can be an esterified starch or salt thereof. Preferred esterified starches for use in the present invention are phosphorylated starch, starch acetate, oxidized starch acetate, starch laurate, sodium starch phosphate, alkyl or alkenyl succinated starches such as starch calcium octenyl succinate, starch octenyl succinate. starch esterified with octenylsuccinic anhydride and its salts, which can be selected from the group consisting of sodium, starch aluminum octenylsuccinate, which are sold, for example, by the company AKZO NOVEL under the name "Dry Flo Plus", starch esterified with octenylsuccinic anhydride and its salts; potato starch esterified with carboxymethyl groups, sold under the name "Supramyl P 60" by Amylum; cornstarch esterified with hydroxypropyl groups, sold under the name "Merigel EF6" by Amylum; Corn starch esterified with dodecenyl succinic anhydride (INCI name: modified corn starch) and potato starch esterified with halogenated methylaminodipropionic acid (INCI name: modified potato starch).

In another embodiment of the invention, the starch derivative can be an ether starch or a salt thereof. Preferred ether starches for use in the present invention are selected from the group consisting of carboxymethyl starch, for example sodium carboxymethyl starch sold under the name "GLYCOLYS" by the company ROQUETTE, hydroxypropyl starch and sodium starch glycolate.

In another embodiment of the invention, the starch derivative can be crosslinked starch or a salt thereof. Preferred crosslinked starches for use in the present invention are phosphate crosslinked starch, acetylated adipate crosslinked starch, acetylated phosphate crosslinked starch, hydroxypropylated phosphate crosslinked starch, dimethylimidazolidinone rice starch, hydroxypropylated phosphorus It is selected from the group consisting of acid cross-linked starch and distarch phosphate.

Preferably, the starch derivative can be selected from esterified or ether starches, especially alkyl or alkenyl succinated starches and ether starches. Particularly preferred alkyl or alkenyl succinated starches are octenyl succinated starches or dodecenyl succinated starches such as calcium starch octenyl succinate, sodium starch octenyl succinate, aluminum starch octenyl succinate, and corn starch esterified with dodecenyl succinic anhydride. A preferred ether starch is carboxymethyl starch and its salts, especially sodium carboxymethyl starch.

Salts of starch and starch derivatives include conventional, non-toxic salts of said compounds, such as those formed from acids or from bases.

The acid is more particularly an inorganic acid selected from hydrochloric acid, boric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydroic acid, sulfuric acid, nitric acid, carbonic acid, phosphoric acid and tetrafluoroboric acid, and more particularly Acetic acid, propionic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, gluconic acid, salicylic acid, tartaric acid, terephthalic acid, methylsulfonic acid, ethylsulfonic acid, benzenesulfonic acid, toluenesulfonic acid and triflic acid. Organic acids selected from can be mentioned.

Bases include sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide aqueous solutions, calcium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and inorganic bases such as sodium carbonate or hydrogen carbonate, potassium or calcium; Mention may be made of organic bases such as secondary or tertiary alkylamines, eg triethylamine or butylamine.

Salts of starch and starch derivatives can advantageously be chosen from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts such as sodium, potassium, calcium and magnesium salts; and ammonium salts.

In a more preferred embodiment of the invention the starch derivative can be selected from hydroxyalkyl modified starches.

The hydroxyalkyl-modified starch may be in powder form. In other words, the hydroxyalkyl-modified starch may be in the form of particles. In this case, the particle size of the hydroxyalkyl-modified starch is not limited.

Hydroxyalkyl-modified starches are based on base starch. Base starch, as used herein, is intended to include all starches derived from any natural source, any of which may be suitable for use herein. Native starch, as used herein, is one that occurs in nature. Also preferred are plant-derived starches obtained by standard breeding techniques including crossbreeding, rearrangement, transposition, transformation, or by any other method of genetic engineering or chromosome engineering to include variations thereof. be. In addition, starches derived from plants grown from artificial mutants and variants of the above common starches that can be produced by known standard methods of mutation breeding are also herein preferred.

Typical starch sources are cereals, tubers, roots, pods and nuts. Natural sources include corn (maize), peas, potatoes, sweet potatoes, bananas, barley, wheat, rice, oats, sago, amaranth, tapioca (cassava), arrowroot, canna and waxy seeds of sorghum, and their low amylose and It can be a high amylose species. As used herein, the term "low amylose" starch is intended to include starches containing no more than about 10% by weight, specifically no more than 5%, more specifically no more than 2% by weight amylose. . As used herein, the term "high amylose" starch is intended to include starches containing at least about 50%, particularly at least about 70%, more particularly at least about 80% by weight amylose. Intend. High amylose starches may be preferred.

The hydroxyalkyl-modified starch may be pregelatinized. Pregelatinization and techniques for achieving pregelatinization are known to those skilled in the art and are disclosed, for example, in U.S. Pat. . See also Chapter XXII--"Production and Use of Pregelatinized Starch", Starch: Chemistry and Technology, Vol. The term pregelatinized is intended to mean expanded starch particles that have lost their birefringence and/or Maltese cross in polarized light. Such pre-gelatinized starch derivatives are substantially soluble in cold water without cooking. In this context, "soluble" does not necessarily mean the formation of a true molecular solution, but can also mean a colloidal dispersion. In one embodiment, the starch is fully pre-gelatinized.

Pre-gelatinized hydroxyalkyl-modified starches are easily and rapidly soluble, even in cold water.

Pregelatinization can be accomplished by methods including, but not limited to, drum drying, extrusion and spray drying. In one embodiment, extrusion is used to simultaneously cook and dry the starch (see, eg, US Pat. No. 3,137,592). This process utilizes physical treatment of a starch/water mixture under high temperature and pressure to cause gelatinization of the starch and subsequent expansion after exiting the nozzle by rapid evaporation of the water. .

In one embodiment, pre-gelatinization is completed to provide good solubility and remove undissolved particles that can impart an unpleasant sandy feel to the composition.

In one embodiment, the starch is mostly intact starch granules. Aqueous dispersions of pre-gelatinized starch derivatives with a largely intact granular structure are typically more uniform and smoother than aqueous dispersions of starch without granular structure which can have a slightly gritty feel. It has texture. In the case of pre-gelatinized starch, which has an intact untreated granular structure, the natural internal structure of hydrogen bonding is broken, but the contour or morphology is maintained.

Hydroxyalkyl-modified starches may be crosslinked. Cross-linking of starch chains can be achieved by suitable cross-linking agents, i.e. bifunctional compounds. In one embodiment, the cross-linking method used is a phosphorylation reaction in which starch is reacted with phosphorus oxychloride, phosphorus pentoxide, and/or sodium trimetaphosphate. Two starch chains are crosslinked by anionic PO groups. The anionic character of the cross-linking sites aids the emulsion-stabilizing action of the starches used according to the invention. In another embodiment, the cross-linking method is with C ₄ -C ₁₈ alkane or alkenedicarboxylic acids, including but not limited to C ₄ -C ₈ alkane dicarboxylic acids, exemplified by adipic acid. Alkane or alkenedicarboxylic acids link two starch chains through ester bonds. It may be in the form of straight or branched chains. Derivatives can be obtained, for example, by reacting starch with mixed anhydrides of dicarboxylic acids and acetic acid. In one embodiment, less than 0.1% by weight of crosslinker is used based on dry starch. In another embodiment, about 0.06-0.1% by weight of crosslinker is used based on dry starch.

The alkyl portion of the hydroxyalkyl-modified starch may have 2-6 carbon atoms, preferably 3-5 carbon atoms, more preferably 3 or 4 carbon atoms.

The position of the alkyl group, eg, the hydroxyl group attached to the starch backbone through 2-6 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, is not critical and may be alpha to omega. In one preferred embodiment, the degree of substitution for hydroxyalkylation is about 0.08 to 0.3. The degree of substitution is the average number of substituted OH groups of the starch molecule per anhydroglucose unit. Hydroxyalkylation of starch occurs by reacting the native starch with an alkylene oxide having the appropriate number of carbon atoms, including but not limited to hydroxypropylation by reacting the starch with propylene oxide. be able to. Starches used in accordance with the present invention may also contain multiple hydroxyl groups per alkyl group.

The hydroxyalkyl-modified starch used in the present invention can be selected from the group consisting of hydroxyethyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch phosphate, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and mixtures thereof.

The processes used to prepare the hydroxyalkyl-modified starch may be performed in any order. However, those skilled in the art will appreciate the benefits of a particular order. For example, hydroxypropylation is typically performed prior to cross-linking with phosphorus oxychloride when cross-linking starch, as typical hydroxypropylation may destroy some of the cross-linking achieved. do.

Examples of hydroxyalkyl-modified starches that are preferred for use in the present invention include:
Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (pre-gelatinized cornstarch), marketed by Akzo Nobel as Structure ZEA and XL; and
Modified (hydroxypropylated, pregelatinized, high amylose) cornstarch marketed by Akzo Nobel as AMAZE.

The amount of component (c) in the composition according to the invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of component (c) in the composition according to the invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of component (c) in the composition according to the invention is 0.01% to 10%, preferably 0.1% to 5%, more preferably 0.5% to 3%, relative to the total weight of the composition. % by mass.

[water]
The composition according to the invention comprises (d) water.

The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the invention may be 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, more preferably 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the invention is from 40% to 95% by weight, preferably from 50% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 60% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. % by mass.

(d) Water may form the aqueous phase of the composition when the composition according to the invention is of the O/W type, especially in the form of an O/W emulsion.

[Natural gum]
A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one natural gum other than gellan gum or a derivative thereof. When two or more of said natural gums are used, they may be the same or different.

As used herein, "natural gum" means gum derived from natural sources, as opposed to chemically synthesized gums. Natural gums can be of plant or microbial origin. Examples of plant-derived natural gums include guar gum, locust bean gum, mannan, beta-glucan, tara gum, agar, alginate, carrageenan, gum arabic, gum ghatti, karaya gum, and tragacanth gum. Examples of microbially-derived gums include xanthan gum. Among these, preferred natural gums are mannan, xanthan gum, guar gum, alginate and carrageenan. Particularly preferred natural gums are guar gum and xanthan gum. Natural gums can be used alone or in combination with one or more different natural gums.

The amount of natural gums in the composition according to the invention may be 0.01% or more, preferably 0.05% or more, more preferably 0.1% or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of natural gums in the composition according to the invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of natural gums in the composition according to the invention is 0.01% to 5%, preferably 0.05% to 3%, more preferably 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. may be

[oil]
A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one oil. When two or more oils are used they may be the same or different.

As used herein, “oil” means a fatty compound or substance that is in liquid or paste (non-solid) form at room temperature (25° C.) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

The oils may be hydrocarbon oils, non-polar oils such as silicone oils, polar oils such as vegetable or animal oils and ester or ether oils, or mixtures thereof.

The oil can be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.

Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, Mention may be made of soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.

Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.

The ester oils are preferably saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic mono- or polyacids and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C Liquid esters with ₁ to C ₂₆ aliphatic monohydric alcohols or polyhydric alcohols, the total number of carbon atoms in these esters being 10 or more.

Preferably, in the case of esters of monohydric alcohols, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

Alkyl myristates such as ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, among monoesters of monoacids and monohydric alcohols , isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

Esters of C ₄ -C ₂₂ dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C ₁ -C ₂₂ alcohols, as well as monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar C ₄ -C ₂₆ dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols can also be used.

Particular mention may be made of diethyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, bis( 2-ethylhexyl), diisostearyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, citric acid They are trioleyl acid, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, and diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

As ester oils sugar esters and diesters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ , preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids can be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means an oxygen-containing hydrocarbon-based compound containing at least 4 carbon atoms containing some alcohol functionality, with or without an aldehyde or ketone functionality. be. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and derivatives thereof, especially methyl derivatives. Alkyl derivatives such as methyl glucose are included.

Sugar esters of fatty acids are especially selected from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of the aforementioned sugars with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ , preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids. can do. These compounds, when unsaturated, may have from 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

Esters according to this variant can also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters are, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, coconut fatty acid esters, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates. or mixtures thereof, such as mixed esters of oleopalmitic acid, oleostearic acid and palmitostearic acid, among others, and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate.

More particularly mono- and diesters, especially mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose. A stearic acid ester is used.

An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is methylglucose dioleate.

Examples of preferred ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexanoate. 2-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosine, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, Hexyl Laurate, Isocetyl Stearate, Isopropyl Isostearate, Isopropyl Myristate, Isodecyl Oleate, Glyceryl Tri(2-ethylhexanoate), Pentaerythrityl Tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-Ethylhexyl Succinate, Sebacic Acid Mention may be made of diethyl, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, caprylic caprylyl glyceride, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, tri(capric/caprylic)glyceryl (INCI name: caprylic/capric triglyceride) and tri(caprylic/caprylic/linolenic) glyceryl.

Examples of silicone oils include dimethylpolysiloxane (INCI name: dimethicone), methylphenylpolysiloxane, linear organopolysiloxane such as methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, deca Cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as methylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and mixtures thereof may be mentioned.

Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes containing at least one aryl group.

These silicone oils may be organically modified. The organically modified silicones that can be used according to the invention are the silicone oils defined above, which contain in their structure one or more organic functional groups attached by means of hydrocarbon-based groups. .

Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll, "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academic Press. Organopolysiloxanes may be volatile or nonvolatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly selected from those having a boiling point between 60° C. and 260° C., even more particularly selected from:
(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms; These include, for example, in particular the octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by the company Union Carbide or under the name Silbione® 70045 V2 by the company Rhodia, the company Union Carbide decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Rhodia under the name Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, as well as mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the type dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane, etc. of the formula, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide.

Mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes and organosilicon compounds, such as mixtures of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2, Mixtures with 2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane may also be mentioned.
(ii) A linear volatile polydialkylsiloxane containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of 5×10 ^-6 m ² /s or less at 25°C. For example, there is decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold especially under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this class are also described in an article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. Viscosity of silicones is measured at 25° C. according to ASTM Standard 445 Appendix C.

Nonvolatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups can be mentioned primarily.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products:
- the 47 and 70 047 series of Silbione® oils sold by the company Rhodia or Mirasil® oils, such as the 70 047 V 500 000 oil;
- Mirasil® series oils marketed by Rhodia;
- Dow Corning 200 series oils, e.g. DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm ² /s;
- Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils from the SF series from General Electric (SF 96, SF 18).

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups, known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), for example the oils of the 48 series from Rhodia.

Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenylsilicone oils.

Phenyl silicone oils can be selected from phenyl silicones of the formula:

(In the formula,
R ₁ to R ₁₀ are, independently of each other, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C ₁ to C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based groups, preferably C ₁ to C ₁₂ hydrocarbon-based groups, and more preferably a C ₁ -C ₆ hydrocarbon group, especially a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group,
m, n, p and q are each independently an integer of 0 to 900 (inclusive), preferably 0 to 500 (inclusive), more preferably 0 to 100 (inclusive), but
However, the sum of n+m+q is non-zero).

Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names:
- 70 641 series of Silbione® oils from Rhodia,
- Rhodia Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series oils,
- Oil of Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning,
- Bayer PK series silicones, e.g. PK20 products,
- Certain oils from the General Electric SF series, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

Phenyl trimethicone (wherein R ₁ to R ₁₀ are methyl; p, q, and n=0; m=1) is preferred as the phenyl silicone oil.

The organically modified liquid silicone may contain, inter alia, polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may therefore be made of the silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd., and the Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.

Hydrocarbon oils can be selected from:
- C6 _{- C16} lower alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples that may be mentioned are hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane, and
- straight or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum, polydecene and hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam®, and squalane.

Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oils (e.g. liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or petroleum, naphthalene, etc.; hydrogenated polyisobutene, Isoeicosane and decene/butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof may be mentioned.

The term "fat" in fatty alcohols means those containing a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus alcohols with 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are included within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols may be linear or branched.

Fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH, where R is saturated and unsaturated containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms. , selected from linear and branched groups). In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkyl groups and C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.

Examples of fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. can be done.

Fatty alcohols are therefore linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ alcohols, preferably linear or branched saturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ alcohols, more preferably linear It can be selected from linear or branched saturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alcohols.

As used herein, the term "saturated fatty alcohol" means an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. The saturated fatty alcohol is preferably selected from any linear or branched, saturated C6 _{- C30} fatty alcohol. Among the linear or branched saturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols, linear or branched saturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohols can preferably be used. Any linear or branched saturated C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohol can more preferably be used. Branched C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohols can even more preferably be used.

Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, octyldodecanol and hexyldecanol can be used as saturated fatty alcohols.

According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the invention is preferably selected from stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

The amount of oil in the composition according to the invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of oil in the composition according to the invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of oil in the composition according to the invention is between 0.01% and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 20% by weight, more preferably between 1% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. There may be.

The oil may form the oily phase of the composition when the composition according to the invention is of the O/W type, especially in the form of an O/W emulsion.

[Surfactant]
A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one surfactant. When more than one surfactant is used, they may be the same or different.

The surfactants used in the present invention are selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants and nonionic surfactants, preferably nonionic surfactants. be able to.

(c) the amount of surfactant may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention, provided that (c) Provided that the amount of surfactant is not zero. (c) The amount of surfactant may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, more preferably 1.0% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (c) surfactant in the composition according to the invention is from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be in the range of 5% by mass.

(c-1) Anionic surfactant The composition according to the present invention may contain at least one anionic surfactant. Two or more anionic surfactants may be used in combination.

Anionic surfactants include (C6 _{- C30} ) alkyl sulfates, (C6 _{- C30} ) alkyl ether sulfates, (C6 _{- C30} ) alkyl amide ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, Monoglyceride Sulfonates; (C6 _{- C30} ) Alkyl Sulfonates, (C6 _{- C30} ) Alkyl Amido Sulfonates, (C6 _{- C30} ) Alkyl Aryl Sulfonates, α-Olefin Sulfonates, Paraffin Sulfonates; (C6 _{- C30} ) (C6-C30) alkyl phosphates; (C6 _{- C30} ) alkyl sulfosuccinates, (C6 _{- C30} ) alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, (C6 _{- C30} ) alkyl amide sulfosuccinates; (C6 _- C30) alkyl sulfosuccinates; ₃₀ ) alkyl sulfoacetate; (C6 _{- C24} ) acyl sarcosinate; (C6 _{- C24} ) acyl glutamate; (C6 _{- C30} ) alkyl polyglycoside carboxyl ether; (C6 _{- C30} ) alkyl poly Glycoside Sulfosuccinates; (C6- _C30 ) Alkyl Sulfosuccinamates; (C6 _{- C24} ) Acyl Isethionates; N-(C6 _{- C24} ) Acyl _Taurate ; C6 _{- C30} Fatty Acids salts; coconut salts or hydrogenated coconut salts; (C8 _{- C20} ) acyl lactylates; (C6- _C30 ) alkyl-D-galactoside _uronates ; polyoxyalkylenated (C6 _- C ₃₀ ) alkyl ether carboxylates; polyoxyalkylenated (C6 _{- C30} ) alkyl aryl ether carboxylates; and polyoxyalkylenated (C6 _{- C30} ) alkyl amide ether carboxylates; It is preferably selected from the group consisting of morphologies.

In at least one embodiment, the anionic surfactant is in the form of a salt, such as an alkali metal (eg, sodium) salt; an alkaline earth metal (eg, magnesium) salt; an ammonium salt; an amine salt. and aminoalcohol salts and the like. Depending on the conditions, the anionic surfactant may be in the acid form.

Anionic surfactants are (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl sulfates, (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl ether sulfates or chlorinated or non-chlorinated polyoxyalkylenated (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) More preferably it is selected from alkyl ether carboxylic acids.

(c-2) Amphoteric Surfactant The composition according to the present invention may contain at least one amphoteric surfactant. Two or more amphoteric surfactants may be used in combination.

Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are for example (non-limiting list) amine derivatives, such as aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, and optionally quaternized amine derivatives. and the aliphatic group contains from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and contains at least one water-solubilizing anionic group (e.g., carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate). A chain or branched chain.

Amphoteric surfactants can preferably be selected from the group consisting of betaines and amidoamine carboxylated derivatives.

The amphoteric surfactant is preferably selected from betaine-type surfactants.

Betaine-type amphoteric surfactants include alkylbetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, phosphobetaines and alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, specifically (C ₈ -C ₂₄ )alkylbetaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₄ )alkyl It is preferably selected from the group consisting of amido(C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, and (C ₈ -C ₂₄ )alkylamido(C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylsulfobetaines. In one embodiment, the betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is selected from (C8- _C24 )alkylbetaines, ₍ C8 _{- C24} )alkylamido ₍ C1 _- C8)alkylsulfobetaines, sulfobetaines and phosphobetaines. be done.

Non-limiting examples that may be mentioned include cocobetaine, laurylbetaine, cetylbetaine, coco/oleamidopropylbetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, palmitamidopropylbetaine, stearamidopropylbetaine, alone or as a mixture. , under the names cocamidoethylbetaine, cocamidopropylhydroxysultaine, oleamidopropylhydroxysultaine, cocohydroxysultaine, laurylhydroxysultaine, and cocosultaine, CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook, 15th Edition, 2014. Includes compounds classified in

Betaine-type amphoteric surfactants are preferably alkylbetaines and alkylamidoalkylbetaines, especially cocobetaines and cocamidopropylbetaines.

Among the amidoamine carboxylated derivatives are described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA Dictionary, 3rd Edition, 1982 (the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference). and the products sold under the name Miranol, amphocarboxyglycinate and amphocarboxypropionate, respectively, which have the following structures:
R1 _- CONHCH2CH2 _- N ⁺ ( _R2 )(R3) _{( CH2COO-} ⁾ M ₊ X- ⁽ B1 ⁾
[In the formula,
R ₁ represents the alkyl group, heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group of the acid R ₁ -COOH present in the hydrolyzed coconut oil,
R ₂ represents a β-hydroxyethyl group,
R ₃ represents a carboxymethyl group,
M ⁺ denotes cationic ions derived from alkali metals such as sodium; ammonium ions; or ions derived from organic amines;
X ^- is halide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, alkyl(C ₁ -C ₄ )sulfate, alkyl(C ₁ -C ₄ )- or alkyl(C ₁ -C ₄ )aryl-sulfone acid ions, especially organic or inorganic anionic ions such as methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or M ⁺ and X ⁻ are absent];
R1' _{- CONHCH2CH2 -} N(B)(C)(B2)
[In the formula,
R ₁ ' is an alkyl group of the acid R ₁ '-COOH present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group such as a C ₇ , C ₉ , C ₁₁ or C ₁₃ alkyl group, a C ₁₇ alkyl group and showing its isoform, or an unsaturated _C17 group,
_B represents _-CH2CH2OX ',
C represents -( _CH2 ) _z -Y', z = 1 or 2,
X' represents a _{-CH2 -} COOH group, _{-CH2 - COOZ} ', -CH2CH2-COOH, -CH2CH2 _- COOZ' or a hydrogen atom;
Y' represents -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2-CHOH- _SO3Z ', _-CH2 -CHOH- _SO3H group or _{-CH2 -} CH(OH)-SO3 _- Z'group; ,
Z' represents an ion of an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ion derived from an organic amine, or an ammonium ion];
and
_Ra'' -NH-CH(Y'')-( _CH2 ) _n -C(O)-NH-( _CH2 ) _n' -N(Rd)(Re)(B'2)
[In the formula,
Y'' is -C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ'', _-CH2 -CH(OH)-SO3H or _{-CH2 -} CH(OH)-SO3 _- Z''( In the formula, Z'' represents a cationic ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ion derived from an organic amine, or an ammonium ion);
Rd and Re represent a C1 _{- C4} alkyl group or a C1 _{- C4} hydroxyalkyl group;
R _a″ represents a C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group from an acid;
n and n' independently represent an integer from 1 to 3].

Amphoteric surfactants having formulas B1 and B2 are (C8- _C24 )-alkylamphomonoacetates, (C8 _{- C24} ) _{alkylamphodiacetates} , (C8 _{- C24} )alkylamphomonopropionates , and (C ₈ -C ₂₄ )alkyl amphodipropionates.

These compounds are listed in the CTFA Dictionary, 5th Edition, 1993, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphopropionate , disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

As an example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name Miranol® C2M condensate by the company Rhodia Chimie.

Among the compounds of formula (B'2), mention may be made of diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide sodium (CTFA) marketed under the name CHIMEXANE HB by the company CHIMEX.

(C-3) Cationic Surfactant The composition according to the present invention may contain at least one cationic surfactant. Two or more cationic surfactants may be used in combination.

Cationic surfactants may be selected from the group consisting of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts include, but are not limited to:
of the following general formula (B3):

(In the formula,
R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ may be the same or different and are straight chain containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogen (selected from straight and branched aliphatic groups). Aliphatic groups include, for example, alkyl groups, alkoxy groups, C ₂ -C ₆ polyoxyalkylene groups, alkylamido groups, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ )alkylamido(C ₂ -C ₆ )alkyl groups, (C ₁₂ - C ₂₂ ) can be selected from alkyl acetate and hydroxyalkyl groups; and aromatic groups such as aryl and alkylaryl groups; X ⁻ is halide, phosphate, acetate, lactate, (C ₂ -C ₆ ) selected from alkylsulphate and alkylsulphonate or alkylarylsulphonate);
Quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolines, such as those of formula (B4):

(In the formula,
R5 is selected from alkenyl groups and alkyl groups containing ₈ to 30 carbon atoms, such as tallow or coconut fatty acid derivatives;
R ₆ is selected from hydrogen, C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, and alkenyl and alkyl groups containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
_R7 is selected from C1 _{- C4} alkyl groups;
R ₈ is selected from hydrogen and C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups;
X ⁻ is selected from halide, phosphate, acetate, lactate, alkylsulfate, alkylsulfonate and alkylarylsulfonate. _In one embodiment R5 and R6 are a mixture of groups selected from alkenyl groups and alkyl groups, e.g. containing ₁₂ to 21 carbon atoms, e.g. fatty acid derivatives of tallow, _R7 is methyl, _R8 is hydrogen. Examples of such products include, but are not limited to, quaternium 27 (CTFA 1997) and quaternium 83 (CTFA 1997), which are designated by Witco as "Rewoquat®" W75, W90, W75PG and W75HPG. );
Di- or tri-quaternary ammonium salts of formula (B5):

(In the formula,
R9 is selected from aliphatic groups containing ₁₆ to 30 carbon atoms;
R ₁₀ is selected from hydrogen, an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a -(CH ₂ ) ₃ (R _16a )(R _17a )(R _18a )N ⁺ X ^- - group;
R _{11 ,} R ₁₂ , R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R _16a , R _17a , and R _18a , which may be the same or different, are selected from hydrogen and alkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms; ;
X ⁻ is selected from halide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, ethylsulfonate and methylsulfonate.

An example of such a diquaternary ammonium salt is FINQUAT CT-P (Quaternium-89) or FINQUAT CT (Quaternium-75) from FINETEX);
and quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (B6):

(In the formula,
R ₂₂ is selected from C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl groups, and C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl groups and dihydroxyalkyl groups;
_R23 is
The following groups:

selected from linear and branched saturated and unsaturated C ₁ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon-based radicals R ₂₇ and hydrogen;
_R25 is
The following groups:

selected from linear and branched saturated and unsaturated C ₁ -C ₆ hydrocarbon-based radicals R ₂₉ and hydrogen;
R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ , which may be the same or different, are selected from linear and branched saturated and unsaturated C ₇ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon-based radicals;
r, s and t, which may be the same or different, are selected from integers ranging from 2 to 6;
each of r1 and t1, which may be the same or different, is 0 or 1, r2+r1=2r and t1+2t=2t,
y is selected from integers ranging from 1 to 10,
x and z, which may be the same or different, are selected from integers ranging from 0 to 10;
X ⁻ is selected from simple and complex, organic and inorganic anions, provided that the sum x+y+z ranges from 1 to 15, and when x is 0, R ₂₃ is R ₂₇ and z is 0, R ₂₅ is provided that R ₂₉ is shown. R ₂₂ can be selected from linear and branched alkyl groups. In one embodiment, R ₂₂ is selected from linear alkyl groups. In another embodiment, R ₂₂ is selected from methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl and dihydroxypropyl groups, eg selected from methyl and ethyl groups. In one embodiment, the sum x+y+z ranges from 1-10. When _R23 is a hydrocarbon-based group _R27 , it may be long-chain, containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short-chain, containing 1 to 3 carbon atoms. . When _R25 is a hydrocarbon-based group R29, it may contain, for example, ₁ to 3 carbon atoms. By way of non-limiting example, in one embodiment, R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ may be the same or different, linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₁ - It is selected from C ₂₁ hydrocarbon-based groups, such as linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₁ -C ₂₁ alkyl and alkenyl groups. In another embodiment, x and z are the same or different and are 0 or 1. In one embodiment, y is equal to one. In another embodiment, r, s and t may be the same or different and are equal to 2 or 3, eg equal to 2. The anions X ⁻ can be selected, for example, from halide ions, such as chloride, bromide and iodide; and C ₁ -C ₄ alkylsulphates, such as methylsulphate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, anions derived from organic acids such as acetate and lactate, and any other anions compatible with ammonium containing ester functional groups may be used in the present invention. Other non-limiting examples of anions that can be used in accordance with the invention. In one embodiment, the anion X ⁻ is selected from chloride and methylsulfate).

In another embodiment, the ammonium salt of formula (B6) can be used, wherein
R ₂₂ is selected from methyl and ethyl groups,
x and y are equal to 1,
z is equal to 0 or 1,
r, s and t are equal to 2,
_R23 is
The following groups:

selected from methyl, ethyl, and _C14 - _C22 hydrocarbon-based radicals, hydrogen;
_R25 is
The following groups:

and hydrogen,
R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ , which may be the same or different, are selected from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ hydrocarbon-based radicals, for example It is selected from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl groups.

In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based group is linear.

Non-limiting examples of compounds of formula (B6) that may be mentioned include diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium, triacyloxyethyl- Included are salts of methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-dimethyl-ammonium, such as chlorides and methylsulfates, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the acyl group may contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and may be derived, for example, from vegetable oils such as palm oil and sunflower oil. If the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be the same or different.

These products are, for example, direct esters of optionally oxyalkylenated triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine to fatty acids or to mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin. or by transesterifying their methyl esters. This esterification may be followed by quaternization using alkylating agents, which include alkyl halides such as methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulfates such as dimethyl and diethyl sulfate; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; and glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are known, for example, by Cognis under the name Dehyquart®, by Stepan under the name Stepanquat®, by Ceca under the name Noxamium®, by Rewo-Goldschmidt It is marketed under the name "Rewoquat® WE 18".

Other non-limiting examples of ammonium salts that can be used in compositions according to the present invention include ammonium salts containing at least one ester functionality as described in US Pat. Nos. 4,874,554 and 4,137,180. Contains salt.

The aforementioned quaternary ammonium salts that can be used in the compositions according to the invention include those corresponding to formula (I), for example tetraalkylammonium chlorides, such as dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides ( The alkyl group contains about 12 to 22 carbon atoms) such as behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride; palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride; Non-limiting examples include stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride sold under the name "Ceraphyl® 70" by Dyk.

According to one embodiment, the cationic surfactants that can be used in the composition according to the invention are behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, quaternium-83, quaternium-87, quaternium-22, behenyl chloride is selected from amidopropyl-2,3-dihydroxypropyldimethylammonium, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, and stearamidopropyldimethylamine;

(c-4) Nonionic surfactant The composition according to the present invention may contain at least one nonionic surfactant. Two or more nonionic surfactants may be used in combination.

Nonionic surfactants are compounds which are known per se or per se (eg in this regard, "Handbook of Surfactants", MR Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178). ). Nonionic surfactants can thus be selected, for example, from alcohols, α-diols, alkylphenols and esters of fatty acids, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated, e.g. having at least one fatty chain containing ~30 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups can range from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups can range from 1 to 30 is. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned. Non-limiting examples include copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides containing, for example, 2-30 mol of ethylene oxide; Polyglycerolated fatty amides containing (1.5 to 4 etc.) glycerol groups; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of vegetable origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol. polyethoxylated fatty acid monoesters or diesters of glycerol (C6 _{- C24} ) alkyl polyglycosides; N-(C6 _{- C24} ) alkyl glucamine derivatives; ₍ C10 _- C14) alkyl amine oxides or N-( Mention may also be made of C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ ) amine oxides such as acylaminopropylmorpholine oxide; silicone surfactants; and mixtures thereof.

The nonionic surfactant can preferably be selected from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units or combinations thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.

Examples of monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include, inter alia, alone or in mixtures:
monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated (C8 _{- C24} ) alkylphenols,
saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ alcohols,
saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, _{monooxyalkylenated} or polyoxyalkylenated C8- _C30 amides,
Esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8 _{- C30} acids with polyalkylene glycols,
monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8 _{- C30} acids and sorbitol,
saturated or unsaturated, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated vegetable oils,
Condensates of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide.

The surfactant preferably contains between 1 and 100, most preferably between 2 and 50 moles of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide. According to one embodiment of the invention, the polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols (polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols) and polyoxyethylenated fatty esters (polyethylene glycol of fatty acids). esters).

Examples of polyoxyethylenated saturated fatty alcohols ₍ or C8- _C30 alcohols) that may be mentioned include ethylene oxide adducts of lauryl alcohol, especially those containing from 9 to 50 oxyethylene units, more particularly 10 to 12 oxyethylene units (CTFA names laureth-10 to laureth-12); ethylene oxide adducts of behenyl alcohol, especially those containing 9 to 50 oxyethylene units (CTFA names beheneth -9 to beheneth-50); ethylene oxide adducts of cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), especially those containing from 10 to 50 oxyethylene units (CTFA names ceteareth-10 to ceteareth-50); ); ethylene oxide adducts of cetyl alcohol, especially those containing 10 to 50 oxyethylene units (CTFA names ceteth-10 to ceteth-50); ethylene oxide adducts of stearyl alcohol, especially those containing 10 to 50 oxyethylene units. containing ethylene units (CTFA names steareth-10 to steareth-50); ethylene oxide adducts of isostearyl alcohol, especially containing 10 to 50 oxyethylene units (CTFA names isosteareth-10 to isosteareth-50); and mixtures thereof.

Examples of polyoxyethylenated unsaturated fatty alcohols ₍ or C8- _C30 alcohols) that may be mentioned include ethylene oxide adducts of oleyl alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units, more particularly those containing 10 to 40 oxyethylene units (CTFA names Oleth-10 through Oleth-40); and mixtures thereof.

As examples of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C ₈ -C ₄₀ alcohols are preferably used.

_In particular, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8 _- C40 alcohols of the formula:
RO-[ _CH2 -CH( _CH2OH )-O] _m -H or RO-[CH( _CH2OH ) _-CH2O ] _m -H
in which R represents a linear or branched C ₈ -C ₄₀ , preferably C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group and m is 1 to 30, preferably 1.5 Represents a number ranging from to 10.

Examples of suitable compounds in connection with the present invention are lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 lauryl ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol. (INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 oleyl ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: polyglyceryl-2 oleyl ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, Mention may be made of oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.

Alcohol may represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistic, which means that in commercial products several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols may coexist in the form of mixtures. means that

Among monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols, C8/ _C10 alcohols containing _{1 mol} glycerol, C10/C12 alcohols containing ₁ mol glycerol and _C12 alcohols containing 1.5 mol glycerol are used. preferably.

Monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8 _{- C40} fatty esters have the formula:
R'O-[ _CH2 -CH ₍ CH2OR''')-O] _m -R" or R'O-[CH(CH2OR''')- _CH2O ] _{m -} R"
wherein R′, R″ and R′″ are independently hydrogen atoms or linear or branched C ₈ -C ₄₀ , preferably C ₈ -C ₃₀ represents an alkyl-CO- or alkenyl-CO- group, where at least one of R', R'' and R''' is not a hydrogen atom, and m is 1-30, preferably 1.5-10 represents a number in the range of .

Examples of polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters that may be mentioned include adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid and mixtures thereof, especially PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate ( PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate), PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (CTFA name: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate), PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (CTFA name: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate), PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate, PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (CTFA name: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate), polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate), and mixtures thereof.

According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the nonionic surfactant comprises a polyol and a saturated or unsaturated Esters with chain-bearing fatty acids and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof having preferably 10 to 200, more preferably 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units, for example C ₈ -C ₂₄ , preferably C ₁₂ - Glyceryl esters of fatty acid(s) of C ₂₂ and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably having 10 to 200, more preferably 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; C ₈ to C ₂₄ , preferably C ₁₂ ; Sorbitol esters of fatty acid(s) from _-C22 , and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably having 10 to 200, more preferably 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; _C8 to _C24 , preferably C Sugar (sucrose, maltose, glucose, fructose and/or alkylglucose) esters of ₁₂ -C22 fatty acid ₍ s) and poly(s) thereof preferably having 10-200, more preferably 10-100 oxyalkylene units ethers of fatty alcohols; ethers of sugars with C8 _{- C24} , preferably C12- _C22 fatty alcohol ₍ s); and mixtures thereof.

Glyceryl esters of fatty acids include glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, and/or glyceryl tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate), glyceryl laurate or glyceryl ricinoleate, glyceryl stearate citrate, and these and these polyoxyalkylenated derivatives include mono-, di-, or triesters of fatty acids with polyoxyalkylenated glycerol (mono-, di-, or tri-esters of fatty acids with polyalkylene glycol ethers of glycerol). , di-, or triesters), preferably stearic acid (mono-, di-, and/or tristearic acid) Polyoxyethylenated glyceryl, such as stearic acid (mono-, di-, and/or tristearic acid) PEG-20 glyceryl can be mentioned.

Mixtures of these surfactants, such as products containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, marketed under the name ARLACEL 165 by the company Uniqema, and stearins, marketed under the name TEGIN by the company Goldschmidt. Products containing glyceryl acid (glyceryl mono- and distearate) and potassium stearate (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE) and the like can also be used.

Sorbitol esters of C8 _{- C24} fatty acids and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives include sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate; Esters such as sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate) sold by the company ICI under the name Span 60, sorbitan monopalmitate sold under the name Span 40 by the company ICI (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate). Tate), and sorbitan tristearate 20 EO sold under the name Tween 65 by ICI (CTFA name: Polysorbate 65), polyethylene sorbitan trioleate (Polysorbate 85), or the trademarks Tween 20 or Tween 60 by Uniqema. can be selected from compounds marketed under the same name.

Examples of esters of fatty acids with glucose or alkyl glucose include alkyl glucose sesquistearate such as methyl glucose sesquistearate, alkyl glucose palmitate such as methyl glycol palmitate or ethyl glucose, methyl glucose fatty acid esters, methyl glucoside and oleic acid. Diesters (CTFA name: Methyl Glucose Dioleate), Mixed Esters of Methyl Glucoside with a Mixture of Oleic Acid/Hydroxystearate (CTFA Name: Methyl Glucose Dioleate/Hydroxystearate), Esters of Methyl Glucoside with Isostearic Acid (CTFA name: methylglucose isostearate), ester of methylglucoside with lauric acid (CTFA name: methylglucose laurate), mixture of monoester with diester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: methylglucose sesquiisolate) stearates), mixtures of monoesters with diesters of methylglucoside and stearic acid (CTFA name: methylglucose sesquistearate), in particular the product marketed under the name Glucate SS by the company AMERCHOL, and mixtures thereof be able to.

Ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids with glucose or alkylglucose, ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids with methylglucose, in particular polyethylene glycol ethers of diesters of methylglucose and stearic acid having about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methylglucose distearate), for example the product marketed under the name Glucam E-20 distearate by the company AMERCHOL, a polyethylene glycol ether (CTFA name) of a mixture of a monoester with methylglucose and a diester of stearic acid with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide. PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate), in particular the product marketed under the name Glucamate SSE-20 by the company AMERCHOL and the product marketed under the name Grillocose PSE-20 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, and mixtures thereof, For example, it can be enumerated.

Sucrose esters may include, for example, saccharose palmito-stearate, saccharose stearate, and saccharose monolaurate.

As sugar ethers alkyl polyglucosides can be used, for example decyl glucosides, such as the product marketed under the name MYDOL 10 by Kao Chemicals, the product marketed under the name PLANTAREN 2000 by Henkel, and the product marketed under the name ORAMIX NS 10 by the company Seppic, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, for example the product marketed under the name ORAMIX CG 110 by the company Seppic or LUTENSOL GD 70 by the company BASF, lauryl glucoside, e.g. the products marketed under the name PLANTAREN 1200 N and PLANTACARE 1200 by the company Henkel, coco-glucosides, e.g. the products marketed under the name PLANTACARE 818/UP by the company Henkel, optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol. cetostearyl glucosides, such as those marketed by the company Seppic under the name MONTANOV 68, by Goldschmidt under the name TEGO-CARE CG90, and by Henkel under the name EMULGADE KE3302, arachidyl glucosides, such as MONTANOV 202 by the company Seppic. in the form of a mixture of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and arachidyl glucosides marketed under the name of Cocoyl ethyl glucoside, e.g. a mixture with cetyl and stearyl alcohols marketed under the name MONTANOV 82 by Seppic (35/65) and mixtures thereof may be mentioned in particular.

Mixtures of glycerides of alkoxylated vegetable oils such as mixtures of ethoxylated (200 EO) palm and copra (7 EO) glycerides may also be mentioned.

The nonionic surfactants according to the invention preferably contain alkenyl or branched C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ acyl chains, eg oleyl or isostearyl groups. More preferably, the nonionic surfactant according to the invention is PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate.

According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the nonionic surfactant is a copolymer of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, in particular of the formula:
HO _{( C2H4O} ) _{a ( C3H6O} ) _{b ( C2H4O} ) _cH
wherein a, b and c are integers such that a+c ranges from 2 to 100 and b ranges from 14 to 60, and mixtures thereof.

According to one of the embodiments of the invention, the nonionic surfactant can be chosen from silicone surfactants. Non-limiting mention is made of those disclosed in the documents US-A-5364633 and US-A-5411744.

The silicone surfactant preferably has the following formula (I):

[In the formula,
R ₁ , R ₂ and R ₃ are independently of each other C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl groups or -(CH ₂ ) _x -(OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _y -(OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ ) _z -OR ₄ groups wherein at least one group of R ₁ , R ₂ or R ₃ is not an alkyl group, R ₄ is hydrogen, an alkyl group or an acyl group,
A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200,
B is an integer in the range 0 to 50, provided that A and B are not both 0;
x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;
y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30;
z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5].

According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, in the compound of formula (I), the alkyl group is a methyl group, x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6 and y is ranging from 4 to 30. is an integer of

Examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I) include compounds of formula (II).

(where A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105, B is an integer ranging from 2 to 10, and y is an integer ranging from 10 to 20).

Examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I) include compounds of formula (III):
H-( _OCH2CH2 ) _y- ( _CH2 ) ₃ -[( _CH3 ) _2SiO ] _A' -( _CH2 ) _{3- ( OCH2CH2} ) _{y -} OH(III)
[wherein A′ and y are integers in the range 10-20] can also be mentioned.

Compounds of the invention which may be used are those marketed by Dow Corning under the names DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 and Q4-3667. Compounds DC 5329, DC 7439-146 and DC 2-5695 are compounds of formula (II) where A is 22, B is 2 and y is 12; is 12; A is 27, B is 3, y is 12).

Compound Q4-3667 is a compound of formula (III), where A is 15 and y is 13.

In preferred embodiments, the nonionic surfactant may be of the ester type.

In one embodiment, the ester-type nonionic surfactant may be selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid esters.

It may be preferred that the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester has a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2-10 glycerols, more preferably 2-8 glycerols, even more preferably 2-6 glycerols.

Polyglyceryl fatty acid esters can have an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) value of 7.0 to 14.0, preferably 8.0 to 13.5, more preferably 10.0 to 13.0. When two or more polyglyceryl fatty acid esters are used, the HLB value is determined by mass average of the HLB values of all polyglyceryl fatty acid esters.

Polyglyceryl fatty acid esters are saturated or unsaturated acids containing 2 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably saturated acids such as lauric acid. It can be selected from mono-, di- and triesters of acids, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid and myristic acid.

Polyglyceryl fatty acid esters are PG2 caprylate, PG2 sesquicaprylate, PG2 dicaprylate, PG2 tricaprylate, PG2 caprate, PG2 sesquicaprate, PG2 dicaprate, PG2 tricaprate, PG2 laurate, PG2 sesquilaurate, and dilaurate. PG2, PG2 trilaurate, PG2 myristate, PG2 sesquimyristate, PG2 dimyristate, PG2 trimyristate, PG2 stearate, PG2 sesquistearate, PG2 distearate, PG2 tristearate, PG2 isostearate, sesquiisostearate PG2, PG2 diisostearate, PG2 triisostearate, PG2 oleate, PG2 sesquioleate, PG2 dioleate, PG2 trioleate, PG3 caprylate, PG3 sesquicaprylate, PG3 dicaprylate, PG3 tricaprylate, PG3 caprate, PG3 sesquicaprate, PG3 dicaprate, PG3 tricaprate, PG3 laurate, PG3 sesquilaurate, PG3 dilaurate, PG3 trilaurate, PG3 myristate, PG3 sesquimyristate, PG3 dimyristate, PG3 trimyristate, stearin PG3 acid, PG3 sesquistearate, PG3 distearate, PG3 tristearate, PG3 isostearate, PG3 sesquiisostearate, PG3 diisostearate, PG3 triisostearate, PG3 oleate, PG3 sesquioleate, PG3 dioleate, triolein PG3 acid, PG4 caprylate, PG4 sesquicaprylate, PG4 dicaprylate, PG4 tricaprylate, PG4 caprate, PG4 sesquicaprate, PG4 dicaprate, PG4 tricaprate, PG4 laurate, PG4 sesquilaurate, PG4 dilaurate, PG4 trilaurate, PG4 myristate, PG4 sesquimyristate, PG4 dimyristate, PG4 trimyristate, PG4 stearate, PG4 sesquistearate, PG4 distearate, PG4 tristearate, PG4 isostearate, PG4 sesquiisostearate, PG4 diisostearate, PG4 triisostearate, PG4 oleate, PG4 sesquioleate, PG4 dioleate, PG4 trioleate, PG5 caprylate, PG5 sesquicaprylate, PG5 dicaprylate, PG5 tricaprylate, PG5 tetracaprylate, PG5 caprate, PG5 sesquicaprate, PG5 dicaprate, PG5 tricaprate, PG5 tetracaprate, PG5 laurate, PG5 sesquilaurate, PG5 dilaurate, PG5 trilaurate, PG5 tetralaurate, myristin PG5 acid, PG5 sesquimyristate, PG5 dimyristate, PG5 trimyristate, PG5 tetramyristate, PG5 stearate, PG5 sesquistearate, PG5 distearate, PG5 tristearate, PG5 tetrastearate, PG5 isostearate, PG5 sesquiisostearate, PG5 diisostearate, PG5 triisostearate, PG5 tetraisostearate, PG5 oleate, PG5 sesquioleate, PG5 dioleate, PG5 trioleate, PG5 tetraoleate, PG6 caprylate, PG6 sesquicaprylate , PG6 dicaprylate, PG6 tricaprylate, PG6 tetracaprylate, PG6 pentacaprylate, PG6 caprate, PG6 sesquicaprate, PG6 dicaprate, PG6 tricaprate, PG6 tetracaprate, PG6 pentacaprate, PG6 laurate, PG6 sesquilaurate, PG6 dilaurate, PG6 trilaurate, PG6 tetralaurate, PG6 pentalaurate, PG6 myristate, PG6 sesquimyristate, PG6 dimyristate, PG6 trimyristate, PG6 tetramyristate, pentamyristate PG6, PG6 stearate, PG6 sesquistearate, PG6 distearate, PG6 tristearate, PG6 tetrastearate, PG6 pentastearate, PG6 isostearate, PG6 sesquiisostearate, PG6 diisostearate, PG6 triisostearate, tetraisostearate PG6 acid, PG6 pentaisostearate, PG6 oleate, PG6 sesquioleate, PG6 dioleate, PG6 trioleate, PG6 tetraoleate, PG6 pentaoleate, PG10 caprylate, PG10 sesquicaprylate, PG10 dicaprylate, tricapryl PG10 acid, PG10 tetracaprylate, PG10 pentacaprylate, PG10 hexacaprylate, PG10 caprate, PG10 sesquicaprate, PG10 dicaprate, PG10 tricaprate, PG10 tetracaprate, penta PG10 caprate, PG10 hexacaprate, PG10 laurate, PG10 sesquilaurate, PG10 dilaurate, PG10 trilaurate, PG10 tetralaurate, PG10 pentalaurate, PG10 hexalaurate, PG10 myristate, PG10 sesquimyristate, PG10 dimyristate, PG10 trimyristate, PG10 tetramyristate, PG10 pentamyristate, PG10 hexamyristate, PG10 stearate, PG10 sesquistearate, PG10 distearate, PG10 tristearate, PG10 tetrastearate, pentastearin PG10 acid, PG10 hexastearate, PG10 isostearate, PG10 sesquiisostearate, PG10 diisostearate, PG10 triisostearate, PG10 tetraisostearate, PG10 pentaisostearate, PG10 hexaisostearate, PG10 oleate, PG10 sesquioleate, It can be selected from the group consisting of PG10 dioleate, PG10 trioleate, PG10 tetraoleate, PG10 pentaoleate, and PG10 hexaoleate.

It may be preferred that the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is selected from:
- polyglyceryl monolaurate containing from 2 to 6 glycerol units,
- polyglyceryl mono(iso)stearate containing from 2 to 6 glycerol units,
- polyglyceryl monooleate containing from 2 to 6 glycerol units, and
- Polyglyceryl dioleate containing 2 to 6 glycerol units.

In one embodiment, the raw material for the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from a mixture of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters preferably having 2 to 10 glycerin, more preferably 2 to 6 glycerin derived polyglyceryl moieties, which The mixture preferably contains 30% by mass or more of a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having polyglyceryl moieties consisting of 2 to 6 glycerols.

The raw material of polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is an ester of fatty acid and polyglycerol containing 70% or more of polyglycerol having a degree of polymerization of 2 or more, preferably fatty acid and 60% of polyglycerol having a degree of polymerization of between 2 and 6. It may be preferable to include an ester with polyglycerin containing more than 30% of polyglycerol with a degree of polymerization of 2-6, more preferably an ester with fatty acid and polyglycerin containing 30% or more.

In another embodiment, the ester-type nonionic surfactant can be selected from the group consisting of monounsaturated esters, polyglyceryl diesters, and mixtures thereof.

It may be preferred that the ester-type nonionic surfactant comprises or consists of at least one monounsaturated ester and at least one polyglyceryl diester, or a mixture thereof.

Ester-type nonionic surfactants may be mixtures comprising:
i) at least one monounsaturated ester of formula (A)
R1 ^- C(O)-OR2 ⁽ A)
(In the formula,
R ¹ and R ² each represent a C ₁₈ -C ₄₄ fatty chain and at least one of R ¹ or R ₂ is monounsaturated);
ii) at least one polyglyceryl diester of formula (B)
R3 ^- C(O)-(O- _CH2 -CH(OH) _-CH2 ) _n -OC(O) ^-R4 (B)
(In the formula,
R ³ and R ⁴ each represent a saturated C ₁₈ -C ₄₄ fatty chain (linear or branched, n is an integer between 2 and 6); and
iii) at least one C10 _{- C30} fatty alcohol.

According to an embodiment, in formula (A) R ¹ and R ² each represent a C ₁₈ -C ₄₀ fatty chain, more preferably a C ₁₈ -C ₃₀ fatty chain. At least one of R ¹ or R ² is monounsaturated.

More specifically, in formula (A) the R ¹ -C(O) group corresponds to the residue of a fatty acid. R ¹ may be linear or monounsaturated and contains at least 18 carbon atoms. Unsaturated acids include oleic acid (C18:1), gadoleic acid (C20:1), erucic acid (C22:1), up to hexaconenoic acid (C26:1). The R ¹ -C(O) group may be derived from branched saturated acids of at least 18 carbon atoms (also called Guerbet acids). The R2 ^- O- group may be derived from monounsaturated linear fatty alcohols having at least 18 carbon atoms. Thus octadecenol, eicosenol, docosenol and hexacosenol may be mentioned. The carbon chain of the alcohol may be branched, saturated and contain at least 18 carbon atoms. Such alcohols are also called Guerbet alcohols.

Preferably, the monounsaturated esters of formula (A) are mixtures of esters containing fatty chains of varying lengths in their structure. More preferably, such monounsaturated esters are liquid at room temperature.

Preferred monounsaturated esters that may be mentioned are, for example, the products commonly called jojoba oil (or jojoba esters), whose liquid nature is due to the presence of monounsaturated chains. This oil contains in particular C18:1 (preferably minority), C20:1 and C22:1 (preferably majority with C20:1>C22:1) unsaturated fatty acid esters and C20:1, C22:1 and C24:1 unsaturated fatty alcohols.

According to an embodiment, in formula (B) the R ³ -C(O)- group corresponds to the residue of a C ₁₈ -C ₄₄ fatty acid, said acid being usually linear and saturated, It preferably corresponds to linear saturated C ₂₀ -C ₃₄ fatty acids. Thus, it contains eicosane (or arachidic) acid ( _C20 ), docosane (or _behen ) acid (C22), tetracosane (or lignocerin) acid ( _C24 ), and hexacosane (or _cerotic ) acid (C26). include. The R ⁴ group corresponds to the hydrocarbon chain of an alcohol, which is usually saturated and linear and has a C ₁₈ -C ₄₄ chain, preferably a C ₂₀ -C ₃₄ chain. n is an integer from 2 to 6, preferably 2 to 4, more preferably 3;

According to the invention, polyglyceryl diesters are obtainable by esterification of solid waxes in the presence of at least one polyol.

Waxes have complex compositions. These have the common feature of containing a mixture of acid monoesters and fatty alcohols of very long chain length, such as C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols.

Depending on the wax source, the mixture of monoesters may also contain certain proportions of hydroxy acid esters such as hydroxy palmitic acid or hydroxy stearic acid. This is the case, for example, with beeswax. Preferably, said alcohol is eicosanol, docosanol or tetracosanol. Beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, auricle wax, shellac wax, and sugarcane wax are examples of natural solid waxes. Preferably, the solid wax is beeswax.

Suitable solid waxes for obtaining polyglyceryl diesters have a melting point of 50 to 90°C. These correspond to mixtures essentially comprising monoesters having the formula R1 ^{- C} (O)-OR2, wherein the R1 ^- C(O)- groups correspond to residues of fatty acids, Said acids are usually linear, saturated and contain at least 18, especially 20, preferably at most 44, more preferably 34 carbon atoms. They thus contain eicosane (or arachidic) acid ( _C20 ), docosane (or _behen ) acid (C22), tetracosane (or lignocerin) acid ( _C24 ), and hexacosane (or _cerotic ) acid (C26). include. Depending on the wax source, the mixture of monoesters may also contain certain proportions of hydroxy acid esters such as hydroxy palmitic acid or hydroxy stearic acid. This is the case, for example, with beeswax. The ^R2 group corresponds to the hydrocarbon chain of an alcohol, which is usually saturated and linear and has at least 18, especially 20, preferably at most 44, more preferably 34 carbon atoms. Preferably, said alcohol is eicosanol, docosanol or tetracosanol. Beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, auricle wax, shellac wax, and sugarcane wax are examples of natural solid waxes.

Preferably, the solid wax suitable for the esterification reaction is beeswax.

Preferably, the polyols used for esterification are ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 2-methylpropanediol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, hexylene glycol, octylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol. , trimethylolpropane, sorbitol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, glycerol, diglycerol and polyglycerol (ie polymers of glycerol units). More preferably, the polyol is a polyglycerol with an average degree of polymerization of 2 to 6, preferably 3.

Preferably, the polyol is polyglycerol-3.

Preferably, the (b) ester-type nonionic surfactant comprises at least one solid wax and at least one of formula (A ) with monounsaturated esters. In such cases, transesterification occurs between the various chemicals that produce the wax derivatives.

Preferred catalysts are hydroxides or alkali or alkaline earth alkoxides, calcium hydroxide, potassium or sodium carbonate or tin or titanium based catalysts.

Preferably, the solid wax is advantageously selected from the group comprising carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, sugarcane wax, auricle wax, beeswax and shellac wax.

In a preferred embodiment, the wax derivative is obtained by reacting jojoba oil (also called jojoba wax), beeswax and polyglycerol (such as polyglycerol-3).

In practice, the reaction is preferably carried out at a temperature of 100°C to 220°C, advantageously 150°C to 200°C. Preferably, the monounsaturated ester/solid wax weight ratio varies from 5/95 to 95/5, advantageously from 30/70 to 75/25. The ester/polyol weight ratio of formulas (A) and (B) preferably varies from 1/99 to 99/1, advantageously from 95/5 to 50/50. Preferably, the proportion of esterified polyols accounts for 0.5 to 50% by weight of the mixture, the proportion of esterified fatty acids accounts for 20 to 60% by weight of the mixture and the proportion of esterified fatty alcohols accounts for 20 to 60% by weight of the mixture. % by mass.

Ester-type nonionic surfactants may further comprise C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ diesters of polyglycerol.

Typically, the C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ fatty acids can be selected from the group of myristic, stearic, isostearic, palmitic, oleic, behenic, erucic and arachidic acids and mixtures thereof.

Polyglycerol may be a polymer of glycerol units, preferably with an average degree of polymerization of 4 to 8, preferably 6.

Preferably, said diester is a distearate diester of hexaglycerol. Preferably, it is polyglyceryl-6 distearate.

Ester-type nonionic surfactants may further comprise fatty alcohols containing from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

Examples of fatty alcohols that can be used include straight-chain or branched fatty alcohols of synthetic or natural origin, for example in plant material (coconut, palm kernel, palm etc.) or animal material (tallow etc.). Mention may be made of alcohols derived from Preferably, fatty alcohols containing 20 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferentially 12 to 22 carbon atoms are used.

Specific examples of fatty alcohols that may be used in connection with the present invention include lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (cetyl alcohol and Stearyl alcohol mixtures), behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof may be mentioned in particular.

(b) ester-type nonionic surfactants comprising at least one monounsaturated ester of formula (A), wherein R ¹ and R ² each represent a C ₁₈ -C ₃₀ fatty chain; at least one of R ¹ or R ² is monounsaturated), at least one polyglyceryl diester of formula (B) (wherein R ³ and R ⁴ are each linear or branched representing saturated C ₂₀ -C ₃₄ fatty chains), and cetyl alcohol.

Ester-type nonionic surfactants are solid waxes with polyols, fatty acid diesters with polyglycerols, jojoba wax (preferably jojoba wax esters), and at least one ester obtained by esterification of fatty alcohols. A mixture may be more preferred. Said esters are non-ionic.

In addition, according to the invention it is particularly advantageous to use a mixture of polyglyceryl-6 distearate and polyglyceryl-3 beeswax together with cetyl alcohol and jojoba wax. Among the particularly preferred mixtures is the product marketed under the name Emulium® Mellifera by the company Gattefosse, which contains jojoba wax, cetyl alcohol, polyglyceryl-6 distearate and polyglyceryl-3 beeswax (INCI name: 6 distearate (and) jojoba ester (and) polyglyceryl-3 beeswax (and) cetyl alcohol). The mixture comprises 5-30% jojoba wax, 3-15% cetyl alcohol, at least 50% polyglyceryl-6 distearate, and 3-15% polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, by weight of the total weight of the mixture. include.

Ester-type nonionic surfactants may be a mixture of polyglyceryl-6 distearate, jojoba esters, polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, and cetyl alcohol.

The amount of surfactant in the composition according to the invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of surfactant in the composition according to the invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of surfactant in the composition according to the invention is 0.01% to 15%, preferably 0.05% to 10%, more preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. %.

[Other ingredients]
The pH of the composition according to the invention can be adjusted to the desired value using acidifying or basifying agents commonly used in dyeing keratin fibers, or using conventional buffer systems. .

Compositions according to the invention are preferably acidic. Therefore, it is preferred that the pH of the composition is between 1 and 6, more preferably between 2 and 5, even more preferably between 2 and 4.

Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, by way of example, of inorganic or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

Among the basifying agents, for example, ammonium hydroxide, alkali metal carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine and their derivatives, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide and compounds of the formula can mention

(In the formula,
W represents alkylene, such as propylene optionally substituted with hydroxyl or C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, and R _a , R _b , R _c and R _d are independently hydrogen atoms, alkyl groups or C ₁ - _C4 hydroxyalkyl groups), these can be exemplified by 1,3-propanediamine and derivatives thereof.

The acidifying or basifying agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 15%, preferably from 0.01% to 10%, more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Can be used in quantity.

The composition according to the invention also contains various adjuvants conventionally used in cosmetic compositions for keratin substances, such as anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, anti Oxidizing agents, thickeners, sequestrants, fragrances, dispersants, conditioning agents, film formers, ceramides, preservatives and opacifiers may also be included.

[Preparation]
The compositions according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing components (a)-(d) as essential components and optional components as required, as explained above.

The method and means of mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional methods and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the compositions according to the present invention.

[form]
The form of the composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited, and can take various forms such as O/W type and W/O type.

It may be preferred that the composition according to the invention is in O/W form, such as an O/W emulsion.

An O/W construct or structure consisting of an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase has an external aqueous phase and therefore a product based on the O/W construct or structure has the immediate fresh feel it can impart. for more comfortable use.

When the composition according to the invention is in the form of an O/W type, preferably an O/W emulsion, it contains an oily phase dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase. The dispersed oily phase can be recognized as oil droplets in the aqueous phase.

[Use and method]
The composition according to the invention is preferably a cosmetic composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for keratinous substances. Keratinous substances, as used herein, refer to materials containing keratin as a major component, examples of which include skin, hair, mucous membranes, lips, nails, and the like.

The composition according to the invention can be used in a cosmetic method for keratinous materials comprising applying a composition according to the invention to the keratinous material.

The compositions according to the invention are preferably for leave-on cosmetics, more preferably for skin and/or hair, even more preferably for skin.

The present invention also provides the composition according to the invention as or in a care product for body and/or facial skin and/or hair and other keratin fibers and/or mucous membranes and/or lips and/or nails. and/or for use as or in make-up products.

In other words, the composition according to the invention can be used directly as the product described above. Alternatively, the composition according to the invention can be used as one component of the above products. For example, the compositions according to the present invention can be added to or combined with any other elements to form the products described above.

Care products may be in the form of not only liquids (for example, lotions) and creams, but also sticks, rods, and the like. Makeup products may be in the form of foundation, mascara, lipstick, lip gloss, blush, nail polish, and the like.

The invention will be explained in more detail by means of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the invention. The following examples are presented as non-limiting illustrations of the technical field of the invention.

(Examples 1-7 and Comparative Examples 1-3)
The following compositions according to Examples 1-7 and Comparative Examples 1-3 shown in Tables 1 and 2 were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Tables 1 and 2. All numerical values for the amounts of ingredients given in Tables 1 and 2 are based on "% by weight" as active ingredient.

[evaluation]
The compositions according to Examples 1-7 and Comparative Examples 1-3 were evaluated as follows.

(presence of granules or aggregates)
Five expert judges evaluated the presence of granules or aggregates in each composition according to Examples 1-7 and Comparative Examples 1-3. Each judge applied each composition to their hands and evaluated the presence or absence of granules or agglomerates by visual observation and finger feel during application according to the following criteria.
Yes: fine granules or aggregates were present
No: No fine granules or aggregates were present

These results are shown in Tables 1 and 2.

(Feeling of decomposition on skin)
Five professional judges evaluated the brittle skin feel of each composition according to Examples 1-7 and Comparative Examples 1-3. Each judge took each composition into their hands and then applied it to their face and rated the feel of the granules or aggregates breaking up during application according to the following criteria.
Excellent: Fine granules or agglomerates were easily disintegrated Good: Fine granules or agglomerates were disintegrated
NA: Not applicable (due to absence of fine granules or aggregates)

These results are shown in Tables 1 and 2.

(Comfortable skin feeling without stickiness)
Five professional judges evaluated the non-greasy and comfortable skin feel of each composition according to Examples 1-7 and Comparative Examples 1-3. Each judge took each composition into their hands and then applied it to their face and rated the stickiness during application according to the following criteria.
Excellent: Non-sticky and comfortable Good: Some sticky but still comfortable Poor: Sticky and uncomfortable

These results are shown in Tables 1 and 2.

(Stability)
Each composition of Examples 1-7 and Comparative Examples 1-3 was filled in a transparent glass bottle and kept at 45° C. for 2 months. After 2 months, each sample was evaluated visually according to the following criteria.
Excellent: Almost the same as freshly prepared. No separation or coalescence and creaming was observed.
Fair: some separation or coalescence and creaming observed.
Poor: Significant separation or coalescence and cream separation were observed.

These results are shown in Tables 1 and 2.

In Tables 1 and 2, the following components (a)-(d):
(a) at least one selected from gellan gum and derivatives thereof;
(b) at least one selected from salicylic acid and derivatives thereof;
(c) at least one selected from starch and derivatives thereof; and
(d) It is demonstrated that the compositions according to Examples 1-7 containing water are stable and capable of forming granules or aggregates in the composition that can be decomposed or dissipated.

Tables 1 and 2 also demonstrate that the compositions according to Examples 1-7 can also provide a comfortable feel. In addition, compositions according to the present invention can prevent or reduce stickiness and can be stable for long periods of time even under high temperature conditions.

Based on the comparison of Example 1 and Example 2, it can be seen that the addition of natural gums other than gellan gum, such as xanthan gum, can improve or accelerate the disintegration or disappearance of granules or aggregates.

Comparative Example 1 shows that the presence of starch or a derivative thereof is necessary to render the composition stable. The comparison of Comparative Example 1 also shows that the presence of starch or its derivatives can enhance the formation of granules or aggregates, resulting in less natural gum used and a non-greasy, comfortable feel. contribute further.

Comparative Example 2 shows that the presence of salicylic acid or a derivative thereof is necessary to form granules or aggregates and to make the composition stable.

Comparative Example 3 shows that the presence of gellan gum or a derivative thereof is necessary to form granules or aggregates and to make the composition stable. It can also be seen that gellan gum or its derivatives can contribute to a comfortable non-sticky feel.

Claims (13)

(a) at least one selected from gellan gum and salts thereof ;
(b) at least one selected from salicylic acid and salts thereof ;
(c) at least one selected from starch and modified starch; and
(d) a stable composition comprising water,
A composition (excluding rice starch ) in which components (a)-(c) are capable of forming degradable or degradable granules or aggregates. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of component (a) in the composition is from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2 , wherein the amount of component (b) in the composition is from 0.01% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 , wherein said modified starch is selected from the group consisting of esterified starch and ether starch. 5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 , wherein the amount of component (c) in the composition is from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 , wherein the amount of (d) water in the composition is from 40% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 , wherein the composition further comprises at least one natural gum other than component (a). 8. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the composition further comprises at least one oil. A composition according to claim 8 , wherein the amount of oil in the composition is from 0.01% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 10. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the composition further comprises at least one surfactant. A composition according to claim 10 , wherein the amount of surfactant in the composition is from 0.01% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 12. A composition according to any one of claims 8 to 11 , wherein the composition is in the form of an O/W emulsion. 13. A cosmetic method for keratinous substances, comprising applying a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12 to keratinous substances.