JP3457198B2 - Knitting garment knitting method by flat knitting machine - Google Patents

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method of knitting a knitted garment such as a sweater knitted by using a flat knitting machine, and more particularly to joining a body and a sleeve.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art If a body and a sleeve of a knitted garment such as a sweater are knitted in a flat knitting machine into a tubular shape and the body and the sleeve are joined during knitting in the flat knitting machine, sewing in a subsequent process is not omitted. It can be simplified. The applicant has previously proposed, as Japanese Patent Publication No. 3-75656, a basic knitting method for knitting the above-mentioned knit garment using a so-called two-bed flat knitting machine in which needle beds are opposed to each other. . According to this, when knitting the front knitted fabric by assigning the knitting of the front side knitted fabric to, for example, the odd number needles and the back side knitted fabric to the even numbered needles and using every other needle on the front and rear needle beds, The back side knitted fabric is attached to the needle of the rear needle bed, and when the back side knitted fabric is knitted, the front side knitted fabric is attached to the needles of the front and rear needle beds, and the knitted fabric is knitted in the state of being overlapped front and back. By doing so, each knitted fabric can always secure an empty needle for transfer on the opposite needle bed, and start rib knitting on the hem rubber part,
A knitted fabric having a mixture of front / back stitches such as links and garters can be knitted into a tubular shape. A knitted garment such as a sweater can be knitted seamlessly by moving and joining the body or sleeve using these empty needles.

When a four-bed flat knitting machine having a pair of front and rear needle beds is used, the front knitted fabric is knitted with the needles of the lower front needle bed and the upper rear needle bed, and the back knitted fabric is similarly formed. Since it is possible to knit using the needles of the lower back needle bed and the upper front needle bed, it is not necessary to assign the front side knitted fabric to the odd numbered needle and the back side knitted fabric to the even numbered needle like a two-bed flat knitting machine. Become. Recently, it has been in the limelight to manufacture knit garments such as sweaters using such a technique without sewing or labor saving in the sewing process.

[0004] There are generally the following two methods for producing a seamless sweater using a two-bed flat knitting machine or a four-bed flat knitting machine. One is to arrange the body and both sleeves from the hem to the armpit side by side and simultaneously knit each into a tubular shape, then place the body and both sleeves adjacent to each other under the armpit to form a single large tubular body. There is a knitting method in which a sleeve diameter is gradually reduced by gradually moving the sleeve toward the body side every time a predetermined number of stitch courses are formed toward the portion. The other is that the body and both sleeves are knitted from the hem to the armpits, then the knitting of the sleeves is stopped after the armpits, and the sleeves are brought closer to the body side every time the body is turned toward the shoulder and a predetermined course is knitted. There is a way to make it. A raglan sleeve or set-in-sleeve type sweater can be manufactured by the former method, and a T-sleeve type sweater can be manufactured by the latter method.

In order to carry out the above-mentioned knitting, the applicant of the present invention further applied for Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open Nos. 2-229248, 7-72384, and 5-51848. Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2-2
In the knitting method disclosed in Japanese Patent No. 29248, the body and both sleeves are adjacent to each other under the armpit to form one large tubular body, and thereafter, knitting is performed toward the shoulder portion, and a predetermined number of stitch courses are formed during this knitting. Each time the sleeve is moved to the body side, or the sleeve and the body side end part are moved toward the center of the body to form a double stitch and gradually reduce the tube diameter. It is intended to be expressed.

The knitting method disclosed in Japanese Examined Patent Publication No. 7-72384 relates to a method for keeping the external appearance of a joint beautiful, and when the body and the sleeve are joined, the stitches of the sleeve are the second to the fourth from the side end of the body. It is arranged so as to be hidden on the back side of the stitches of the wales located at any one of them.

The method disclosed in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 5-51848 relates to a method for forming a pattern of a sleeve and a body to be joined, and relates to a length in a height direction from a shoulder point to a side of a body portion and a sleeve crest at a sleeve portion. Even if the height of the sleeve changes, the body pattern is modified accordingly so that the height of the sleeves is the same, making it easier to match the number of stitches when joining and knitting. It is to prevent excess and deficiency.

In the above method, the sleeve is brought closer to the body side every time a predetermined number of stitch courses are formed on the body side in order to knit up to the shoulder portion, or the sleeve and the body side end portion are directed toward the body center. Since the cylinder diameter is gradually decreased by forming the stitches, it is necessary to repeatedly transfer the stitch loop to finish the joint knitting of the sleeve and the body and to improve the aesthetics of the joint portion. Care should be taken not to damage the joints and the joints should be designed so that there is no excess or deficiency of the stitches on the sleeve or body.

[0009]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention provides a joint knitting of a sleeve and a body which does not require transfer of stitch loops, and adjusts the sleeve attachment angle by a relatively simple method to obtain a desired silhouette. An object of the present invention is to provide a knitting method for knitting clothes by a flat knitting machine that can be obtained.

[0010]

According to the present invention, there is at least a pair of front and rear needle beds that extend in the left-right direction and face each other with a needle bed gap therebetween, and the pair of needle beds each have a large number of needles.
It is possible to transfer stitches between the needle beds, and, using one or both needle beds, a flat knitting machine capable of racking left and right,
In a method for knitting a knitted garment such as a sweater or the like in which a body and a left and right sleeves, which are each knitted in a tubular shape, are joined to each other during knitting, first, one of the left and right sleeves is connected from the cuff to the body. After knitting by gradually increasing the tube diameter toward the section, knit the body following the sleeve from one side line to the other side line so that the course direction extends from the hem to the shoulder At the same time, a) connecting knitted sleeves to the body by knitting knitting from the hem to the armpits and knitting over the entire width of knitting of the body, b) turning the body from shoulder to neck. When knitting, a process in which the wale around the side following the wale of the sleeve that is knitted so that the cuffs are tilted downward with respect to the body is increased each time a stitch course of a predetermined course is formed, c ) At the neck A step of forming a neck opening by dividing the body part from the back body part, d) When knitting the body part from the neck part toward the other shoulder, the sleeve is inclined so that the cuffs are inclined downward with respect to the body part. A process of reducing the wale around the side of the body following the wale of the sleeve to be knitted each time a stitch course of a predetermined course is formed, e) applying a knot-free knitting to the body part from the hem to the armpit The process of releasing the needle from the needle is performed, and the other remaining sleeve part is knitted to the cuff by gradually reducing the tube diameter, and then the bind-off knitting is performed on the knitting end part of the cuff. The step of applying is included.

In the step of performing the widening stitch, the widening loop is formed from the vicinity of the armpit toward the shoulder, and in the step of performing the widening stitch, the widening loop is formed from the shoulder side toward the vicinity of the armpit. did.

Further, the widening loops are formed so as to be scattered in a line shape from the underarm toward the neck portion, and the reducing loops are formed so as to be lined in a line from the neck side to the underarm. I decided to do it.

According to this, first, one sleeve is knitted by gradually increasing the tube diameter from the cuff toward the connecting portion with the body.
Next, remove the needle that locks the stitch loop of the final course of the knitted sleeve from the knitting, feed the needle on the side of the needle that locked the stitch loop of the sleeve, and knit from the hem to the armpit. While doing, form the stitch course of the side line of the body.
Next, the needles that lock the side lines and the stitch loops of the sleeves are fed to knit the body course from the hem to the shoulder. As a result, a stitch loop of the body is formed following the stitch loop of the final course of the sleeve, and the sleeve and the body are integrated.

When knitting the body from the shoulder to the neck, the widening stitches are repeated every time a stitch course of a predetermined course is formed in the wale around the side of the body following the wale of the sleeve. Try to widen the knitting width. The widening loop formed here works to push the sleeve toward the shoulder, and as a result, the sleeve is tilted in the direction of the clockwise hand with the armpit as the center, and the cuff side is tilted downward. The greater the number of increases, the greater the angle of inclination with respect to the horizon.

Next, knitting is performed by dividing both ends of the knitting width by using the yarn feeders for the front body portion and the back body portion, respectively, in the collar neck portion. Reduced each time a knitting course of a predetermined course is formed so that a double stitch is formed in the wale around the side of the body following the wale of the sleeve to be knitted next when knitting the body from the neck to the shoulder By knitting, the stitch loop formed here moves toward the armpit, so that the sleeve formed next tilts toward the counterclockwise hand with the armpit as the center, and as a result, the cuff tilts downward. It comes with a sleeve. The greater the number of reductions, the greater the angle of inclination with respect to the horizon.

After knitting the stitch course of the body part, the needle that locks the stitch loop of the final course of the body part, which continuously forms the sleeves, is removed from the knitting and prevented from unraveling to the body part from the hem to the armpit. Knit and release from the needle. After that,
The body and the sleeve are united by feeding the needles that lock the stitch loops of the final course of the body removed from the knitting to knit the sleeve. During knitting of the sleeves, knitting is performed until the cuffs are gradually reduced while the tubular diameter is gradually reduced, and then the knitting ends of the cuffs are sequentially knitted by performing a bind-off knitting.

By adopting such a knitting method, it is not necessary to pull the sleeve toward the body as in the conventional case. In addition, since the knitted wales formed by one sleeve extend in a straight line through the body to the other sleeve, a rope pattern, Alan pattern, etc. are designed for the joint between the sleeve and the body. It will not be difficult. Further, if the widening loops / reducing loops for adjusting the sleeve attachment angle are formed so as to be scattered in a line shape from the armpit toward the neckline, fashionability can be imparted like a conventional fashion line. .

[0018]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION Embodiments of the present invention will be described below with reference to the drawings. In this embodiment, a knitted garment is a pullover sweater. For convenience of description, a case of knitting using a two-bed flat knitting machine will be described. A two-bed flat knitting machine used for knitting has a pair of front and rear needle beds that extend in the left-right direction and oppose each other in the front-rear direction, and each of the pair of needle beds has a large number of needles. The needle bed is a flat knitting machine (not shown) in which a needle bed gap is formed in the facing portion, at least one of the needle beds can be racked to the left and right, and stitches can be transferred between the needle beds. The sweaters are knitted one by one and separated.

FIG. 1 is a front view of a knitted sweater 1, FIG. 2 is a view showing a knitting order of the sweater 1 knitted by a flat knitting machine, and the sweater 1 is indicated by an arrow in FIG. As shown, the left sleeve 3, the body 5, and the right sleeve 7 are knitted in this order from bottom to top. As shown in FIG. 1, the sweater 1 is formed by repeatedly forming tissue patterns 6 and 8 such as rope patterns so as to vertically cut from one sleeve to the other with the hem portion of the body sandwiching the body. Then, the rope pattern is omitted. Back body 5b is front body 5f
Squeezed portion 11 formed to squeeze the width of the hem 10 side of the
Except for the shapes of a and 11b and the neckline 13 provided on the neck portion, the same knitting is performed with the same shape as the front body 5f. Also, the sleeves 3 and 7 have a tubular cross section, the body 5 has a C-shaped cross section in which the hem 10 side is open except for the neckline section 13, and the neckline section 13 is a cross section in which the hem side and the neckline side are open. The course is organized in two layers.

The flow of sweater knitting is roughly as follows. <A-b-c> First, the left cuff 15 is knitted with rubber such as a 1 × 1 rib. From the following b to the armpits, increase knitting along the left edge of the sleeve 3 every predetermined course (21 in the figure),
Knit up to c while gradually increasing the cylinder diameter of the left sleeve 3 part. For details of rib knitting and increase knitting, Japanese Patent Publication No. 3-75656, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2-133637, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 9-143843, and Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 9-20.
Reference can be made to, for example, Japanese Patent No. 9249.

<C-d-e> After finishing the knitting of the left sleeve 3,
In c, the set-up knitting 25 of the armpit line 23 from the hem 10 of the body 5 to the armpit 17 is performed. During the knitting of this side line, the stitch loop of the final course of the left sleeve 3 remains locked to the needle of the needle bed. After knitting the armpit line, d is the body 5
The knitting of the body portion 5 is started by performing the course knitting of the knitting width (body length) from the hem 10 to the shoulder 22. As a result, the stitch loop of the body 5 is formed following the stitch loop of the final course of the left sleeve 3 which has been knitted first.
While knitting the stitch course of the body 5 from d to e, each time a predetermined course, for example, a stitch course of two courses is formed, the underarm 17 in the figure is used as a starting point and the widening stitch is formed on the line 27 extending in the direction of the neckline 13. Form a loop.
The widening loop formed on the line 27 is given to an empty needle formed by shifting the stitch loop group of the body 5 located on the shoulder side of the widening loop to the right by one needle. With this one-time widening knitting, one wale is increased from the line 27 to the shoulder.

Regarding the above-mentioned widening stitch, for example, the method disclosed in Japanese Patent Publication No. 62-52063 using a Bella needle and the Japanese Patent Application No. 9-202462 using a slide needle (the title of the invention "method of forming stitches and formation of the stitches") Flat knitting machine ")
It is preferable to carry out the method disclosed in 1. to prevent the formation of holes in the widened portion. Such widening method is generally called “split knitting” or “split knit”.

By repeating the above-described increase knitting to e, the knitting width of the shoulder portion from the shoulder tip to e is increased (29 portion in the figure). In this way, the widening loop formed by forming the widening loop in the range from the armpit 17 to the shoulder in d-e of the body 5 is the sleeve 3 previously knitted.
The cuff 15 acts on the body 5 so as to incline downward, and the silhouette shown in FIG. 1 can be obtained. It is preferable for the appearance of the sweater to repeatedly form the widening loop so that the line 27 is drawn starting from the armpit 17 as in the present embodiment, but the starting point of the line 27 is not limited to the armpit 17, and It is not limited to giving a state. By increasing the frequency and number of widening stitches, the sleeve attachment angle to the body 5 can be further increased, and by adjusting this, the sleeve attachment to the body can be made to have a desired silhouette.

<E-f> Next, knitting of the body parts e to f is performed. Here, the widening stitches are formed along the line 31 in the same manner as described above, for example, every 6 courses. With this widening stitch, the wales on the shoulders are increased to form shoulder drops, and the shoulder tips 22
It has a lowered shape to fit when worn. Reference numeral 32 shown in FIG. 2 indicates a knitting width increased by the stitch knitting of the line 31. At the same time as this widening knitting, 5
On the hem side of f, as shown at 11, the yarn feeding range is gradually reduced from the hem side, and then the flechage knitting (11a, 11b) in which the yarn feeding range is gradually increased so as to obtain the original knitting width is performed. By performing the flechage knitting, the front body 5f forms a silhouette in which the width of the body becomes narrower toward the hem 10 side by missing the stitch course of the portion. The shoulder drop widening line 31 may be formed so as to be aligned with the sleeve widening line 27. Further, the widening stitch for shoulder drop may be formed by advancing into the knit between d and e.

<F-g> The neckline portion 13 is knitted in the subsequent f to g. Here, a yarn feeder for the front body (not shown) and a yarn feeder for the back body (not shown) are used to knit each of the front body 5f and the back body 5b in a state where they are divided at both ends of the knitting width. Then, the course formation of each body 5f, 5b is performed in a simultaneous progressive manner. In the front body 5f, the neckline 13 is reduced to the center of the neckline to form a round neck, and knitting is performed, and then knitting is performed to increase the original knitting width. This reduction organization is 2
Each time a predetermined number of courses such as a course are knitted, the stitch loop at the neckline peripheral portion is moved to the left to form a double stitch along the line 33. After that, after performing the predetermined number of course knitting while maintaining the reduced knitting width,
The widening loop is formed along the line 35 up to g and becomes the original knitting width, and the formation of the widening loop at that time is the same as the previous one.

<G-h> Next, in g-i from the shoulder to the shoulder tip 37, conversely to the increased knitting performed in the previous d-f, the reduced knitting is performed to form the shoulder drop and the angle for sleeve attachment. Adjustments are made. Formation of shoulder drop is line 3 at gh
It is carried out along line 9. The reduction knitting for adjusting the sleeve attachment angle is performed along the line 41 at hi. The reduction knitting is the same as that performed in the neckline 13, and is performed by moving the stitch loop group on the right side of each line to the left to form a double stitch. Reference numerals 40 and 42 shown in FIG. 2 indicate the knitting widths reduced by the reduced stitches of the lines 39 and 41, respectively. In this g-i, the flechage knitting 12a, 12b is performed on the front body 5f as in the case of the above 11, so that the width of the body becomes narrower toward the hem 10 side.

After the knitting of the body 5 is completed in <i-j> i, the knitting loop of the side line 45 extending from the hem 10 to the armpit 43 is knitted and released from the needle. Here, the knitting of the body 5 is made to end on the hem 10 side, and subsequently the bind-off processing 47 is sequentially performed from the hem 10 toward the armpit 43 to join the knitted fabrics of the front body 5f and the back body 5b to each other. Free from. For details of the bind-off processing, see, for example, Japanese Patent Laid-Open Nos. 2-91254 and 4-20985.
No. 5, JP-A-9-241950 and the like can be referred to. Instead of this bind-off treatment, the stitch loop may be blown off from the needle after several courses of waste knitting, and in that case, a heat-fusible yarn for preventing loosening can be used. In this case, the portion is finished with a sewing machine after knitting.

<Jk> Then, the right sleeve 7 remaining from j is knitted. During the bind-off process, the knitting of the right sleeve 7 is started by performing the course knitting following the knitting loop of the body portion 5 from the armpit 43 to the shoulder 37, where the knitting was interrupted. The right sleeve 7 is a side end portion 48 from the armpit 43 to the cuff 49 portion.
And knitting to reduce the tube diameter.

<K-l-m> 1-by-1 cuff 49 with k-l
After knitting as ribs, the final course of the cuffs is subjected to bind-off processing in 1-m. Reference numeral 51a indicates the bind off processing of the cuff front surface portion 49f, and 51b indicates the bind off processing of the cuff rear surface portion 49b. The bind off processing is performed by making a round of the cuff stitches of the sleeve 7 knitted in a tubular shape. To get the opening.
As such a bind-off processing, for example, Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 9-310
By performing the method disclosed in Japanese Patent No. 254, a cuff 49 with stretch can be obtained.

By knitting as in this embodiment, the direction of the wale extends continuously with the sleeve, the body, and the sleeve, so that it is easy to insert a texture pattern such as a rope pattern at the joint between the body and the sleeve. There is an advantage. It should be noted that although the method using the two-bed flat knitting machine is shown in the above-mentioned embodiment, it is needless to say that the four-bed flat knitting machine can also be used without departing from the scope of the present invention.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a view showing a sweater knitted by a knitting method of this embodiment.

FIG. 2 is a diagram showing a knitting order of the sweater shown in FIG. 1 by a flat knitting machine.

[Explanation of symbols]

1 ... Sweater, 3 ... left sleeve, 5f ... front body, 5b ... rear body, 6,8 ... texture pattern, 7 ... right sleeve, 10 ... hem, 11,12
… Squeezed part, 13… neckline, 13… neckline, 15,49
... Cuffs, 17,41 ... armpits, 22,37 ... shoulder tips, 23 ...
Side lines, 25 ... Set-up knitting, 27, 31, 35, ... Lines (increasing stitches), 33, 39, 41 ... Lines (decreasing stitches), 47 ... Offset (side lines), 51 ... Offset (cuffs)

Claims (3)

(57) [Claims] 1. At least a pair of front and rear needle beds that extend in the left-right direction and oppose each other with a needle bed gap interposed therebetween, each of the pair of needle beds having a large number of needles, and transfer of stitches between the needle beds. And a sweater in which one or both needle beds can be racked to the left and right using a flat knitting machine, and the body and the left and right sleeves that are each knitted in a tubular shape are joined to each other during knitting, etc. In the method for knitting knitted clothes, first, knit either one of the left and right sleeves by gradually increasing the tube diameter from the cuff toward the connection part with the body, and then continue to the sleeves and then the body While knitting from one side line to the other side line so that the direction extends from the hem to the shoulder, a) Perform knitting knitting from the hem to the armpits and knitting the course over the entire width of the body. The sleeve knitted in Step of connecting to the body part, b) When knitting the body part from the shoulder to neck, the sleeves are knitted so that the sleeves are inclined so that the cuffs are tilted downward with respect to the body. A step of increasing the stitches each time a stitch course of the course is formed, c) a step of dividing the front body portion and the back body portion at the neck portion to form a neck opening, d) the body portion from the neck portion to the other shoulder When knitting toward, the sleeves are knitted so that the cuffs are tilted downward with respect to the body, and the wale around the side of the body following the wale of the sleeve is reduced every time a stitch course of a predetermined course is formed. E), including the steps of e) releasing the needle from the hem and armpits by releasing the needle from the needle, and gradually increasing the tube diameter of the other sleeve part that remains after that. After knitting to the cuffs, knit the cuffs Step of performing bind-off knitted relative end portion, characterized in that it comprises a. 2. In the step of performing the widening stitch, a widening loop is formed from near the armpit toward the shoulder, and in the step of reducing the widening loop, the narrowing loop is formed from the shoulder side to near the underarm. The knitting method of knitted garment according to claim 1, wherein 3. The widening loops are formed so as to be linearly scattered from the underarm to the neck, and the reduced loops are linearly scattered from the neck side to the underarm. The knitted garment knitting method according to claim 2, wherein the knitted garment is formed.