JP2010265268A - Composition for skin care, use and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a composition for skin care which can be produced by a simple process, is excellent in stability and can be easily used, has a small content of surfactants, and contains ceramides-containing oily particles. <P>SOLUTION: The composition for skin care includes an aqueous phase and oily particles dispersed in the aqueous phase. The viscosity of the composition is 1,000-100,000 mPa s at room temperature. In the composition, the oily particles are 0.1-2 mm in average size, contain 15-60 mass% of ceramides, and are contained at 0.5-15 mass%; and the aqueous phase contains 0.1-1.0 mass% of a polymer. A method for producing the composition for skin care use is also provided, comprising the following process: a dissolved oily phase is added from above the aqueous phase to the aqueous phase heated to 50-90°C, or the aqueous phase heated to 50-90°C is added from above the oily phase to the dissolved oily phase; thereafter, a mixture of the aqueous phase and the oily phase is stirred; while the stirring, the mixture is cooled to room temperature to obtain the oily particles. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2011,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to a dermatological composition, and in particular, to a dermatological composition comprising an aqueous phase and oily particles dispersed in the aqueous phase.

  The stratum corneum, which is the outermost layer of the skin, suppresses the ingress of substances from the outside and the evaporation of moisture from the inside of the skin, and at the same time functions to maintain the skin's flexibility and smooth appearance by retaining moisture. have. In the space between the stratum corneum constituting the stratum corneum, lipids called stratum corneum lipids exist so as to fill the gaps in the stratum corneum.

  About 50% of the lipid composition of this keratin intercellular lipid is ceramides, and it is composed of cholesterol, cholesterol ester, fatty acid ester and the like. It is generally known that a decrease in keratin intercellular lipids, especially ceramides, causes undesirable skin conditions such as rough skin, dry skin, and aging skin. Therefore, by supplementing ceramides externally as a component for improving the stratum corneum function, it is possible to improve the stratum corneum state with reduced function.

  However, ceramides have a problem that they are difficult to stabilize in a preparation because they have high crystallinity and a high melting point. Therefore, in order to stably incorporate ceramides into the external preparation for skin, combined use with various synthetic surfactants and various types of oils is unavoidable. It was inevitable that the properties were limited. In addition, it is necessary to use a large amount of an emulsifier for ceramides, and there is a problem that the feeling of use is sticky.

  In addition, many of the conventional emulsions containing ceramides have a white emulsion or white cream appearance, and are indistinguishable from products that do not contain ceramides in appearance. There were no differences.

  There have already been proposed oily particles, microcapsules, granules, oil-in-water compositions, and the like that are contained in oils and other functional ingredients, skin compositions such as cosmetics. For example, Patent Document 1 discloses an external composition containing oily particles, in which oily particles having an average particle size of liquid oil of 0.05 to 10 mm are dispersed in an aqueous phase. In addition, the oil-in-water dermatological composition disclosed in Patent Document 2 contains fatty acid esters of vitamin A, oil components that are liquid at room temperature, amphiphilic substances having a melting point of 45 to 75 ° C., etc. in the oily particles. And the average particle diameter of oil-based particles is 10-1000 micrometers.

  However, since the microcapsules described in Patent Documents 1 and 2 described above do not contain ceramides, none of them has a skin care effect. In addition, the polymer added to Patent Documents 1 and 2 may cause problems in use. Furthermore, conventionally, in order to produce a dermatological composition containing such oily particles, there are usually disadvantages that the production process is complicated and the cost is high.

  Patent Document 3 discloses a method for producing hydrogel particles containing ceramides. However, since the method for producing the particles requires very complicated operations and special equipment, there is a problem that the production process is complicated and the cost is high.

Chinese Patent Application Publication No. 1980634 Chinese Patent Application No. 1738724 JP 2002-20227 A

  An object of the present invention is to provide a skin composition that can be produced by a simple production process, is excellent in stability and usability, has a low surfactant content, and contains oily particles containing ceramides. It is. In the present invention, oily particles containing ceramides have a size that can be observed with the naked eye.

  As a result of intensive studies on the above problems, the present inventor has found that the above problems can be solved by satisfying specific conditions and dispersing oily particles containing ceramides in an aqueous phase, thereby completing the present invention. It came to.

That is, the present invention is an dermatological composition comprising an aqueous phase and oily particles dispersed in the aqueous phase, and having a viscosity at room temperature of 1000 to 100,000 mPa · s,
The oily particles have an average particle diameter of 0.1 to 2 mm and contain 15 to 60% by mass of ceramides, and the content of oily particles in the skin composition is 0.5 to 15% by mass,
A skin composition is provided in which the aqueous phase contains 0.1 to 1.0% by mass of a polymer.

  Further, the present invention provides water that is heated to 50 to 90 ° C. from the top of the oil phase after the oil phase dissolved from the top of the water phase is added to the water phase heated to 50 to 90 ° C. After the phase is added, the method for producing the above-mentioned dermatological composition is provided, wherein the mixture of the aqueous phase and the oil phase is cooled to room temperature while stirring to obtain oily particles.

  The skin composition of the present invention can be produced by a simple production process, is excellent in stability and use feeling, has a small amount of surfactant, and contains oily particles containing ceramides.

  In the skin composition of the present invention, the content of ceramides in the oily particles is 15 to 60% by mass, preferably 20 to 60% by mass, and more preferably 30 to 60% by mass. If the content of ceramides is lower than the lower limit of 15% by mass, the effects of ceramides, for example, the skin care moisturizing effect cannot be obtained sufficiently, and it is difficult to obtain oily particles that can be observed with the naked eye, and the oily particles become soft. It is not preferable. On the other hand, if the content of ceramides exceeds the upper limit of 60% by mass, the oily particles become hard, which is not preferable.

  The ceramide is one or more selected from natural ceramide and pseudo-ceramide. Natural ceramide is represented by the following general formula (1).

[In the general formula (1), R ₁ represents a linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 7 to 19 carbon atoms which may be substituted by a hydroxyl group; Z represents a methylene group or X ₁ , X ₂ and X ₃ each independently represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group or an acetoxy group; X ₄ represents a hydrogen atom or together with an adjacent oxygen atom, oxo (However, when Z is a methine group, _one of X ₁ and X ₂ is a hydrogen atom and the other does not exist. When X ₄ forms an oxo group, X ₃ does not exist.) R ₂ represents a hydroxymethyl group or an acetoxymethyl group; R ₃ represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R ₄ represents 5 to 30 carbon atoms that may be substituted by a hydroxyl group. A linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, or The ω terminal of the hydrocarbon group is an ester bond of a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group; the broken line indicates an unsaturated bond It may be possible. ]

In the general formula (1), R ₁ is preferably a linear alkyl group having 7 to 19 carbon atoms, more preferably a linear alkyl group having 13 to 15 carbon atoms; R ₄ is a hydroxy group having 9 to 27 carbon atoms. A linear alkyl group which may be substituted, or a linear alkyl group having 9 to 27 carbon atoms in which linoleic acid is ester-bonded. X ₄ preferably represents a hydrogen atom or forms an oxo group together with an oxygen atom. In particular, R ₄ is preferably tricosyl, 1-hydroxypentadecyl, 1-hydroxytricosyl, heptadecyl, 1-hydroxyundecyl, or a nonacosyl group in which linoleic acid is ester-bonded to the ω position.

  Specific examples of natural ceramides include ceramides Type 1 to 7 in which sphingosine, dihydrosphingosine, phytosphingosine or sphingadienin is amidated. Furthermore, these N-alkyl bodies (for example, N-methyl body) are also included.

  Commercially available natural ceramides include Ceramide I, Ceramide III, Ceramide IIIA, Ceramide IIIB, Ceramide IIIC, Ceramide VI (above, manufactured by Goldschmidt), Ceramide TIC-001 (manufactured by Takasago Fragrance Co., Ltd.), CERAMIDE II (Made by Quest International), DS-Ceramide VI, DS-CLA-Phytoceramide, C6-Phytoceramide, DS-ceramide Y3S (made by DOOSAN), CERAMIDE2 (made by Cederma).

  Next, the pseudo-ceramide is represented by the following general formula (2).

〔一般式(2)中、Ｒ₅は、ヒドロキシル基が置換していてもよい炭素数10〜22の直鎖、分岐鎖又は環状の飽和又は不飽和の炭化水素基を示し；Ｘ₄は水素原子、アセチル基又はグリセリル基を示し；Ｒ₆はヒドロキシル基又はアミノ基が置換していてもよい炭素数５〜22の直鎖、分岐鎖又は環状の飽和又は不飽和の炭化水素基であるか、又は該炭化水素基のω末端に、ヒドロキシル基が置換していてもよい炭素数８〜22の直鎖又は分岐鎖の飽和又は不飽和の脂肪酸がエステル結合したものを示し；Ｒ₇は水素原子を示すか、又はヒドロキシアルコキシ基、アルコキシ基又はアセトキシ基が置換していてもよい総炭素数１〜８のアルキル基を示す；Ｒ₆としては、特にノニル、トリデシル、ペンタデシル、ω位にリノール酸がエステル結合したウンデシル基、ω位にリノール酸がエステル結合したペンタデシル基、ω位に12-ヒドロキシステアリン酸がエステル結合したペンタデシル基、ω位にメチル分岐イソステアリン酸がアミド結合したウンデシル基が好ましい。Ｒ₇のヒドロキシアルコキシ基又はアルコキシ基としては炭素数１〜８のものが好ましい。〕

[In General Formula (2), R ₅ represents a linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 10 to 22 carbon atoms which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group; X ₄ represents hydrogen Represents an atom, an acetyl group or a glyceryl group; is R ₆ a linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 5 to 22 carbon atoms which may be substituted by a hydroxyl group or an amino group? or ω-terminal of the hydrocarbon group, those hydroxyl groups are saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, linear or branched chain having 8 to 22 carbon atoms which may be substituted with an ester bond; R ₇ is hydrogen An atom or a hydroxyalkoxy group, an alkoxy group or an acetoxy group optionally substituted alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms; as R ₆ , nonyl, tridecyl, pentadecyl, linol at the ω position Undecyl acid-esterified A pentadecyl group in which linoleic acid is ester-bonded to the ω position, a pentadecyl group in which 12-hydroxystearic acid is ester-bonded to the ω position, and an undecyl group in which methyl branched isostearic acid is amide-bonded to the ω position are preferable. The hydroxyalkoxy group or alkoxy group for R ₇ is preferably a group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms. ]

As the pseudo-ceramide represented by the general formula (2), R ₅ is a hexadecyl group, X ₄ is a hydrogen atom, R ₆ is a pentadecyl group, and R ₇ is a hydroxyethyl group ((N-hexadecyloxyhydroxypropyl ) -N-hydroxyhexadecanamide); R ₅ is a hexadecyl group, X ₄ is a hydrogen atom, R ₆ is a nonyl group, and R ₇ is a hydroxyethyl group ((N-hexadecyloxyhydroxypropyl) -N -Hydroxydecanamide); pseudo-ceramide (N- [2- (2,3-dihydroxy) wherein R ₅ is a hexadecyl group, X ₄ is a glyceryl group, R ₆ is a tridecyl group, and R ₇ is a 3-methoxypropyl group Propyloxy) -3-hexadecyloxypropyl] -N-3-methoxypropyltetradecanamide) is preferred. Among them, in general formula (2), R ₅ is a hexadecyl group, X ₄ is a hydrogen atom, R ₆ is a pentadecyl group, and R ₇ is a hydroxyethyl group ((N-hexadecyloxyhydroxypropyl) -N— Hydroxyhexadecanamide) is particularly preferred.

  Furthermore, among the natural ceramides represented by the general formula (1), natural ceramides of types I to VI, and among the pseudo-ceramides represented by the general formula (2), N- (2-hydroxy-3- Pseudo-type ceramides such as hexadecyloxypropyl) -N-2-hydroxyethylhexadecanamide and N- (2-hydroxy-3-hexadecyloxypropyl) -N-2-hydroxyethyldecanamide are preferred. Of these, N- (2-hydroxy-3-hexadecyloxypropyl) -N-2-hydroxyethylhexadecanamide is preferred.

  The average particle size of the oily particles in the skin composition of the present invention is 0.1 to 2 mm from the viewpoint of having a good feeling of use and allowing the oily particles to be observed with the naked eye. Further preferred.

  The oily particles may further contain an amphiphilic solid oil having a melting point of 40 to 90 ° C. Such amphiphilic solid oils include higher alcohols, higher fatty acids, and fatty acid glycerides. Examples of higher alcohols include cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. Examples of higher fatty acids include myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and the like. Of these, cetyl alcohol and palmitic acid are preferred.

  The content of the amphiphilic solid oil in the oily particles can be selected as necessary, but is preferably 0 to 50% by mass, more preferably 0 to 30% by mass, based on the total mass of the oily particles. Is preferable, and 0 to 10% by mass is particularly preferable.

  In addition to the above components, the oily particles include liquid, solid and semi-solid synthetic and naturally-derived oily components generally used in cosmetics, such as liquid paraffin, squalane (hydrogenated polyisobutene), petrolatum, etc. Hydrocarbon oils; ester oils such as isotridecyl isononanoate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, glyceryl monoisostearate, cholesteryl isostearate; vegetable oils such as olive oil, soybean oil, castor oil; animal oils such as beeswax and lanolin A volatile and non-volatile silicone oil such as methylpolysiloxane, methylcyclopolysiloxane, and modified silicone; a fluorine oil such as perfluoropolyether;

  In the aqueous phase or oil phase in the dermatological composition of the present invention, an appropriate amount of a surfactant, for example, a nonionic surfactant, an anionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, within a range not impairing the effects of the invention, A cationic surfactant can be blended.

  Examples of the nonionic surfactant include polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters, sorbitan fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene sorbite fatty acid Examples include esters, polyglycerol fatty acid esters, alkyl glycerol ethers, glycerol fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene cholesteryl ethers, alkyl polyglucosides, sucrose fatty acid esters, amine oxides, and the like. Of these, sorbitan stearate is preferable.

  Examples of anionic surfactants include alkyl sulfates, alkyl amide ether sulfates, α-olefin sulfonic acids, alkyl amide sulfonates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, alkyl sulfocarboxylates, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether carboxylic acids Alkyl phosphates, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether phosphates, acyl glutamates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl taurine salts and the like.

  Examples of amphoteric surfactants include alkyl acetate betaines, alkyl imidazolinium betaines, alkyl amide betaines, alkyl sulfobetaines and the like.

  Examples of cationic surfactants include primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts and quaternary ammonium salts which may be polyoxyalkylenated.

  The content of the surfactant in the skin composition of the present invention is preferably 0.001 to 0.5% by mass, more preferably 0.001 to 0.3% by mass, and further preferably 0.1 to 0.2% by mass. When there are too many surfactants to an aqueous phase or an oil phase, the particle diameter of an oil-based particle will become small and will be unobservable with the naked eye. The surfactant used in the present invention is preferably a nonionic surfactant.

  Examples of the polymer contained in the aqueous phase of the skin composition of the present invention include, for example, plant polymer compounds, microbial polymer compounds, animal polymer compounds, modified starch, modified cellulose, and acrylic acid polymer compounds. , Polyoxyethylene polymer compounds, polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene copolymer polymer compounds, acrylic polymer compounds, and cationic polymers.

  The plant-based polymer compound is one or more polymer compounds selected from gum arabic, gum tragacanth, galactan, carob gum, guar gum, caraya gum, carrageenan, pectin, agar, and quince seed.

  The microbial polymer compound is one or more polymer compounds selected from dextran and pullulan.

  The animal polymer compound is one or more polymer compounds selected from collagen, casein, albumin, and gelatin.

  The modified starch is at least one selected from carboxymethyl starch and methylhydroxypropyl starch.

  The modified cellulose is at least one selected from methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, methyl hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, cellulose sodium sulfate, hydroxypropyl cellulose, and sodium carboxymethyl cellulose.

  The acrylic acid polymer compound is at least one selected from a carboxyvinyl polymer, an alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymer, and an acrylic acid-alkyl methacrylate copolymer. Of these, carbomers are preferred.

  The acrylic polymer compound is one or more polymer compounds selected from sodium polyacrylate, polyethyl acrylate, and polyacrylamide.

  Furthermore, when the oil phase and the aqueous phase are mixed, the viscosity of the aqueous phase in the skin composition of the present invention at 50 to 90 ° C. is preferably 1000 to 20000 mPa · s, more preferably 1000 to 8000 mPa · s. The viscosity of the final composition is preferably 1000 to 10,000 mPa · s, more preferably 1000 to 90,000 mPa · s. If the viscosity of the aqueous phase during mixing of the oil phase and the aqueous phase is lower than 1000 mPa · s, the oil phase floats above the aqueous phase, and uniform particles cannot be produced. On the other hand, when the viscosity of the aqueous phase at the time of mixing is higher than 20000 mPa · s, the produced particles are too small to produce particles having a size that can be observed with the naked eye.

  On the other hand, if the viscosity of the final composition is lower than 1000 mPa · s, the particles are likely to float and the composition is not stable. Further, when the viscosity of the final composition is higher than 100,000 mPa · s, it is not preferable because the oily particles are likely to collapse during the stirring process.

  The viscosity of the aqueous phase of the present invention is a value measured with a rotary viscometer (B-type viscometer or B8R-type viscometer).

  Furthermore, in addition to the above-mentioned components, the dermatological composition of the present invention usually contains other components, such as liquid, that are usually contained in dermatological compositions such as cosmetics, as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired depending on the purpose. Oils, vitamins, plant extracts, emulsifiers, gelling agents, stabilizers, preservatives, fragrances, antioxidants, pH adjusters and the like can also be contained.

The skin composition of the present invention is produced by the following production method.
That is, after adding the dissolved oil phase to the water phase heated to a predetermined temperature from the top of the water phase, or after adding the water phase heated to the predetermined temperature to the oil phase dissolved, the oil phase The mixture of phase and aqueous phase is cooled to room temperature with stirring to obtain oily particles.

  The surfactant may be added in advance to either the aqueous phase or the oil phase, or may be added to both the aqueous phase and the oil phase. In the method for producing a skin composition of the present invention, the viscosity of the aqueous phase heated to the predetermined temperature is preferably 1000 to 20000 mPa · s, more preferably 1000 to 8000 mPa · s. The predetermined temperature is 50 to 90 ° C, preferably 60 to 90 ° C, and more preferably 70 to 90 ° C. In addition, the temperature of the oil phase is not particularly limited as long as it is a temperature at which each component of the oil phase can be mixed and melted.

The aqueous phase can contain the polymer, a pH adjuster, a gelling agent, the surfactant, and the like.
In addition to ceramides, the oil phase can contain an amphiphilic solid oil, an oil component, the surfactant, and the like.

Examples 1-2
As shown in Table 1, water and glycerin were stirred in a container at room temperature, and polymer carbomer and carrageenan were added thereto to uniformly disperse carbomer and carrageenan. Then, it heated to 50 degreeC, stirring. Then, methylparaben and sodium chloride were added thereto and stirred while maintaining 50 ° C. After the methylparaben and sodium chloride were dissolved, a 48% aqueous potassium hydroxide solution (KOH) was added to form an aqueous phase.
Further, N- (hexadecyloxyhydroxypropyl) -N-hydroxyethylhexadecanamide, cetyl alcohol, cholesteryl isostearate, and hydrogenated polyisobutene were heated to 50 ° C., mixed and dissolved to obtain an oil phase.
The oil phase was added to the 50 ° C. aqueous phase from above the aqueous phase and stirred at 200 rpm. After the mixture became uniform, the mixture was cooled to room temperature with stirring. After cooling to room temperature, a 48% aqueous potassium hydroxide solution was added to adjust the pH to neutral, whereby the skin composition of the present invention was obtained.

Examples 3-19
By the method according to Example 1, skin compositions of Examples 3 to 19 shown in Tables 1 and 2 were prepared.

Comparative Examples 1-8
By the method according to Example 1, the skin compositions of Comparative Examples 1 to 8 shown in Table 3 were prepared.

  The composition of each example and each comparative example was evaluated according to the following criteria. The evaluation results are shown in Tables 1-3.

<appearance>
○: Oily particles can be observed with the naked eye.
X: Oily particles cannot be observed with the naked eye.

<Stability>
The obtained composition was stored at 50 ° C. for 1 month, and the floating of the oil particles and the change in the size of the oil particles were observed in the composition after storage for 1 month.
○: No floating of oily particles is observed, and no change in the size of oily particles is observed.
X: Levitation of oily particles is observed, or change in size of oily particles is observed.

<Hardness of oily particles>
Good: It is felt that the hardness of the oily particles is just right, and there is no feeling that it is too soft or too hard.
Soft: Obviously oily particles feel too soft.
Hard: Obviously the oily particles feel too hard.

<Usage>
○: Recalling the feeling of using an existing commercial product, it feels better.
X: Recalling the feeling of using an existing commercial product, it feels inferior to that.

<Moisturizing effect>
○: Feels moisturizing.
X: I feel that there is no moisturizing effect.

Claims (7)

A skin composition comprising an aqueous phase and oily particles dispersed in the aqueous phase, and having a viscosity at room temperature of 1000 to 1000 mPa · s,
The oily particles have an average particle diameter of 0.1 to 2 mm and contain 15 to 60% by mass of ceramides, and the content of oily particles in the skin composition is 0.5 to 15% by mass,
A composition for skin, wherein the aqueous phase contains 0.1 to 1.0% by mass of a polymer.   The composition for skin according to claim 1, wherein the content of ceramides in the oily particles is 20 to 60% by mass.   The composition for skin according to claim 1, wherein the content of ceramides in the oily particles is 30 to 60% by mass.   The polymer for skin according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the polymer contained in the aqueous phase is at least one acrylic polymer compound selected from a carboxyvinyl polymer and an acrylic acid-alkyl methacrylate copolymer. Composition.   Ceramides include natural ceramides of types I to VI, and N- (2-hydroxy-3-hexadecyloxypropyl) -N-2-hydroxyethylhexadecanamide and N- (2-hydroxy-3-hexa The dermatological composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, which is one or more selected from pseudo-ceramides containing (decyloxypropyl) -N-2-hydroxyethyldecanamide.   After adding an oil phase dissolved from the upper part of the aqueous phase to the aqueous phase heated to 50 to 90 ° C, or after adding an aqueous phase heated to 50 to 90 ° C from the upper part of the oil phase to the dissolved oil phase The method for producing a dermatological composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein an oily particle is obtained by cooling to a room temperature while stirring a mixture of an aqueous phase and an oil phase.   The method for producing a dermatological composition according to claim 6, wherein the viscosity of the aqueous phase heated to 50 to 90 ° C is 1000 to 20000 mPa · s.