GB2287480A - Method for neutralizing permanents - Google Patents

Abstract

An improved method for applying permanent wave neutraliser solution comprises applying the neutralizer solution with an air brush held at less than 0.1 inches (.254 cm) from the hair, preferably at a pressure of 40 psi. The improvement allows for greater control by the stylist, and requires less neutralizer solution than was used with previous methods.

Description

METHOD FOR NEUTRALIZING PERMANENTS BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates generally to permanents for hair, and more particularly to an improved method for applying the neutralizer solution used in the permanent process.

It is well known to the art to utilize permanent wave solutions in conjunction with the styling of hair. Typical permanent wave solutions use an alkaline solution to "soften" the hair, and a neutralizing solution to arrest the action of the permanent wave solution. Both solutions are typically applied to the hair while the hair is wrapped around rods specifically fashioned for that use.

More particularly, the subject's hair is initially wrapped around perm rods sized to provide the appropriate amount of curl. The permanent wave solution is then applied to the hair, and the head is covered with a plastic enclosure such as a bag or hair dryer which has been pre-heated to a temperature of abo.ut 100 degrees. The plastic enclosure remains on the head for about 20 minutes, or for such time as is necessary to accomplish the appropriate "softening" of the hair shaft. The hair is then rinsed with tepid water for several minutes, and is then towel dried.

After the permanent wave solution has been rinsed from the hair an acidic oxidizing solution, commonly known as neutralizer, is applied. The traditional method of applying neutralizing solution is with a plastic squeeze bottle, providing a coarse stream of solution. The neutralizer is usually applied at room temperature, and is allowed to remain on the hair shaft for several minutes, typically around five minutes. Tlie hair is then rinsed again with water, and the rods are relnoxted. The neutralizer returns the hair to its original state, so that it can then be styled.

Since most prior art permanents last for only several months, this process must be repeated several times a year.

Over the c.ourse of time, the acidic oxidizing neutralizer solution tends to burn the hair, due to the amount which is applied to neutralize the alkaline solution already on the hair. Additionally, the application of the neutralizing solution through the use of a plastic squeeze bottle tends to result in the solution running down the neck and face of the individual. For this reason, towels are placed on the neck and cotton is used around the hair line to prevent the acidic oxidizing solution from damaging sensitive body parts, such as the eyes.

An improved method of applying neutralizer solution is disclosed in applicant's prior U.S. Patent No. 5,080,116.

That method uses an air brush to apply the neutralizer so that less solution is required. The prior art air brush technique requires that the brush be held somewhat away from the hair, preferably at a distance of at least 0.1 inch, so that the neutralizer is sprayed onto the hair. Now it has unexpectedly been found that acceptable results may be obtained in other ways.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION In one aspect of the present invention neutralizer solution is applied by an air brush in intimate contact with the hair. The air brush operates using air or some other common gas at a pressure above ambient atmospheric pressure, preferably less than about 40 psi, and more preferably between 5 psi and 40 psi. More than one application of neutralizer is preferably made, using any of the known application techniques.

One object of the present invention is to provide an improved method for applying neutralizer to hair, so that reduced amounts of neutralizer are required.

Another object of the present invention is to provide an improved method for applying neutralizer to hair, so that improved control over the neutralizer solution is provided.

A still further object of the present invention is to provide an improved method for giving a permanent which is simple to practice and relatively inexpensive to implement.

Other objects and advantages of the invention will be apparent from the following description and claims.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENT For the purposes of promoting an understanding of the principles of the invention, reference will now be made to the preferred embodiments and specific language will be used to describe the same. It will nevertheless be understood that no limitation of the scope of the invention is thereby intended, such alterations and further modifications in the preferred embodiments, and such further applications of the principles of the invention as illustrated therein being contemplated as would normally occur to one skilled in the art to which the invention relates.

The present invention relates to an improved method for applying neutralizer solution to hair. In the prior art it was known, through applicant's prior U.S. patent, to apply neutralizer solution with an air brush held at least 0.1 inches from the hair. The present invention improves applicant's prior technique by providing that the air brush is held in intimate contact with the hair. It was also known from applicant's prior U.S. patent to operate the air brush at a pressure of above 40 psi, preferably at 70 to 80 psi. The present invention improves applicant's prior technique by providing that the air brush is operated at a reduced pressure, preferably 5 to 40 psi. This new method improves the control of the stylist and reduces the amount of neutralizer required.

As previously disclosed, the typical permanent comprises the steps of wrapping the hair around perm rods; applying permanent wave solution to the hair; placing the head in a heated environment; rinsing the hair (preferably with water); towel drying the hair; applying neutralizer to the hair; again rinsing the hair (again preferably with water); and removing the rods. These steps are performed sequentially in the order indicated. According to the present invention, an air brush is used to apply the neutralizer solution.

In order to maximize the effectiveness of the neutralizer, a correctly engineered air brush is necessary.

The air brush employed in this invention was designed and manufactured by the Badger Air Brush Company, 9128 West Belmont Avenue Franklin Park, Illinois 60131.

Construction of the air brush (sometimes referred to as a wand) is molded delron plastic. The air brush is light in weight, weighing approximately one ounce, and is comfortable to hold. All metal contact parts of the air brush are constructed of nickel plated brass.

The air brush functions on the venturi principal created by the air compressor. This function forces air through the air brush, over the top of the dip tube. The dip tube itself is attached to the air brush by means of an adjustable spray tip that is threaded and thereby screwed into the air brush. Because the spray tip extends completely through the air brush, the dip tube is attached to the spray tip by means of a slip fit connection. To complete the air brush neutralizer application assembly, the bottle containing the neutralizer is screwed onto the air brush wand allowing the dip tube immersed in the neutralizer to function as described.

An important feature of the air brush is the ability to adjust the spray pattern of the neutralizer. This is accomplished by means of the spray tip that is threaded and screwed into the air brush. By raising or lowering the spray tip, the spray pattern is adjusted.

Chemically, the neutralizer's active ingredient is hydrogen peroxide with an activity level of 1.75-3.00%.

Also included in the neutralizer formulation are ingredients that condition hair during the neutralizing process. These ingredients have a CTFA (Cosmetic, Toiletry & Fragrance Association) name of Trimethyldilylamodimethicone, Octoxynol-40, Isolaureth-6, Glycol and Quaternium-52.

The viscosity adjustment of the completed neutralizer is of critical importance to the overall performance of the neutralizing process. Viscosity of the neutralizer must be kept from 0 to no more than 500 CP. Measurement of the neutralizer's viscosity was taken with a Brookfield Model L.V.F. viscometer with a No. 1 spindle and 12 R.P.M.

Temperature of the solution was 250C. If a more viscous neutralizer is orificed through the air brush, the neutralizer will drip from the point that it is being orificed, down the sides of the container holding the neutralizer, then onto the floor or possibly onto the patron whose hair is being neutralized. Higher viscosity neutralizers than specified will also effect proper penetration of the neutralizer into hair wound around the permanent wave rod.

Controlling correct air pressure to the air brush is accomplished by means of an air compressor delivering a constant pressure. One manufacturer providing air compressors appropriate for this invention is Thomas Industries, 1419 Illinois Avenue, Sheboygan, Wisconsin 53801.

It has been unexpectedly discovered by the inventor that a constant air pressure of between 5 and 40 lbs per square inch can be advantageously used. This is in distinct contrast to applicant's prior art technique which required somewhat higher air pressures, up to about 80 psi. This new discovery was truly astonishing to those familiar with the invention disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 5,080,116. The reduced air pressure operates in conjunction with the present "direct contact" technique to optimize stylist control and neutralizer application.

The utilization of the improved method of this invention preferably results in the neutralizer being applied to the hair in conjunction with a gas or air in a gas or air neutralizer mix. Preferably the mix is at least 50% gas or air and 50% neutralizer, so that the ratio in the mixture of gas or air to neutralizer is at least 1:1.

However, it has been found that acceptable results can be reached with an even greater proportion of gas to neutralizer present. Also, the gas or air neutralizer when applied to the hair may be of a temperature less than the ambient temperature of the neutralizer.

Preferably the method of this invention includes applying the neutralizer to one rod at a time with short bursts of the gas or air neutralizer mixture using relatively short strokes. After the entire head has neutralizer applied to each curl one at a time, neutralizer is preferably applied to each curl.at least one more time.

More preferably, especially with longer hair or hair which is very dry or tinted, three applications are administered, in amounts of between 1/2 to 1-1/2 ounces of neutralizer per application.

During the application process the air brush is held less than 0.1 inches from the hair. Most preferably, the air brush is held directly adjacent the hair so that the tip of the air brush is in "intimate" contact with the hair.

Accordingly, it can be appreciated that the neutralizer solution is truly "brushed" onto the hair, rather than being sprayed on from a distance as with prior art techniques. It is believed that this "brushing" forces the neutralizer into the hair, instead of just having it applied onto the hair.

The air brush is preferably held with the index finger operating the trigger button and with the air hose (if any) passing below the thumb and over the wrist to keep the hose out of the way. When combined with applicant's improved "direct contact" technique improved control over the application of the neutralizing solution is provided, and less neutralizing solution is required. Further, the "splash" of neutralizer solution onto adjacent curls is minimized when the tip of the air brush is held adjacent to the hair. Less splash also means less mess. Splash is further minimized when the "direct contact" method is used with low gas pressures, e. < ., less than 40 psi.

Utilization of this improved method has resulted in the ability to completely neutralize permanent wave solution with approximately 1/2 to 4-1/2 ounces of neutralizer.

Furthermore, there is a marked decrease in messiness, even when neutralizer is applied to each curl three times.

Additionally, the cuticle layer of the hair lays closer to the shaft relative to prior art permanents, or application of neutralizer. In fact, it is believed that as long as the perm remains in the hair, the cuticle will remain essentially flat relative to the shaft.

In accordance with this invention, a plurality of sites on a curl have the neutralizer air or gas mix applied thereto each at least once. It has been found that when the hair associated with each curl is treated a plurality of times, preferably three times, either of two techniques work extremely well. In the first technique, the rod is lifted and the bottom of the hair wrapped around the perm rod has the neutralizer applied thereto, then the hair wrapped around the perm rod is partially restored to its original position and is treated again. The hair wrapped around the perm rod is then treated a third time with the rod in its original position. Another technique which has also produced excellent results has the first application being made to the top of the curl, the second application being made to the bottom of the curl, and the third application being made intermediate the top and bottom of the curl.

Reference will now be made to specific examples using the processes described above. It is to be understood that the examples are provided to more completely describe preferred embodiments, and that no limitation to the scope of the invention is intended thereby.

EXAMPLE 1 A permanent wave solution is applied a subject's hair, and the subject's head is covered with a plastic bag, The hair is dried for twenty minutes in a dryer pre-heated to 115OF. After the twenty minutes, the temperature under the plastic bag is about 90OF. The hair is uncovered and then rinsed for five minutes.

Neutralizer is then applied to the subject's hair using an air brush directly contacting the hair. The air brush pressure is maintained at precisely 40 psi throughout the neutralizer application. The neutralizer does not remain on the hair for the typical five minutes, but is rinsed off less than one minute after the neutralizer is applied.

In follow-up, it can be seen that the perm does not relax for at least ten weeks, providing an effective permanent for the subject's hair.

EXAMPLE 2 A permanent wave solution is applied to a subject's hair. The subject's head is covered with a plastic bag, and the hair is dried for twenty minutes in a dryer pre-heated to 115OF. After the twenty minute drying period the temperature under the plastic bag is about 900 F. The hair is uncovered and then rinsed for five minutes.

Neutralizer is then applied to the subject's hair using an air brush directly contacting the hair. The air brush pressure is maintained at about 5 psi throughout the neutralizer application. The neutralizer does not remain on the hair for the typical five minutes, but is rinsed off less than one minute after the neutralizer is applied.

In follow-up, it can be seen that the perm does not relax for at least ten weeks, providing an effective permanent for the subject's hair.

EXAMPLE 3 An individual's hair was subjected to a "half-head" test. One half of the head was treated using the method disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 5,080,116, while the other half was treated using the method of Example 1 as set forth above. The hair treated with the method of this invention exhibited longer hold, less relaxation and less fading than did the hair treated with the method of the previous invention. Other "half-head" tests conducted in accordance with this Example consistently produced the same results.

EXAMPLE 4 An individual's hair was subjected to a "half-head" test. One half of the head was treated using the method disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 5,080,116, while the other half was treated using the method of Example 2 as se+ forth above. The hair treated with the method of this invention exhibited longer hold, less relaxation and less fading than did the hair treated with the method of the previous invention. Other "half-head" tests conducted in accordance with this Example consistently produced the same results.

It is to be appreciated that the method of this invention results in permanents exhibiting strong, long lasting hold while using less neutralizer than has been taught and used in the prior art. This method results in less mess, more manageable hair and a longer lasting hold.

For example, in at least one case a permanent given using the method of this invention lasted for a full year.

Additionally, the reduced amount of neutralizer necessary when practicing the method of this invention is believed to reduce the extent of chemical burning which occurs to the hair, since only a fraction of the amount of neutralizer previously used is now necessary. As previously discussed the control of the stylist over the amount and direction of the neutralizer solution is enhanced when the air brush tip contacts the hair and low gas pressures are used.

An additional advantage associated with this invention is that while the peroxide in neutralizers has been known to subject hair to fading, little or no fading occurs using the method of this invention. This advantage is particularly important to individuals who have dark hair, since its fading is typically more noticeable.

Still another advantage associated with this invention is that semi-permanent hair color can be applied to the hair shortly after having a permanent using the method of this invention, since the hair has been totally neutralized.

With the method of this invention there is no need for a 24 to 48 hoar waiting period before the hair can be exposed to water whether it be through showering, swimming, shampooing, or chemical service, such as coloring the hair.

While the invention has been described in detail in the foregoing description, the same is to be considered as illustrative and not restrictive in character, it being understood that only the preferred embodiment has been shown and described and that all changes and modifications that come within the spirit of the invention are desired to be protected.

Stip

Claims (5)

CLAIMS:

1. In a method for giving a permanent by wrapping the hair around perm rods, applying permanent wave solution to the hair, rinsing the hair, at least partially drying the hair, applying neutralizer to the hair with an air brush, again rinsing the hair, and removing the perm rods; the improvement comprising applying the neutralizer with an air brush while the tip of said air brush is less than 0.1 inches from the hair.

2. The method of claim 1 wherein the tip of the air brush contacts the hair while the neutralizer solution is being applied.

3. In a method for giving a permanent by wrapping the hair around perm rods, applying permanent wave solution to the hair, rinsing the hair, at least partially drying the hair, applying neutralizer to the hair with an air brush, again rinsing the hair, and removing the perm rods; the improvement comprising applying the neutralizer with an air brush while the tip of said air brush is less than 0.1 inches from the hair; and wherein the air brush is operated at a pressure of between 5 psi and 40 psi.

4. The method of claim 3 wherein the tip of the air brush contacts the hair while the neutralizer solution is being applied.

5. The method of claim 4 wherein the air brush is operated at a pressure of 40 psi.