FR3131839A1 - stable composition comprising oil and a water-soluble alcohol - Google Patents

Abstract

stable composition comprising oil and a water-soluble alcohol The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) at least one fatty alcohol, (b) at least one fatty acid ester oil, (c) at least one C2-C4 diol, (d) water in an amount of 35% by weight or less based on the total weight of the composition, wherein a total amount of oil(s) is less than 15 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Figure for abstract: NONE

Description

stable composition comprising oil and a water-soluble alcohol

The present invention relates to a composition comprising an oil and a water-soluble alcohol, in particular a stable composition for keratinous substances, comprising the same.

context of art

In the cosmetic field, cosmetic compositions making it possible to obtain care effects are increasingly sought after by users. In order to obtain caring effects, active agents are generally included in the compositions. In cosmetic compositions including cosmetic active agents for keratinous materials, an oil can be used as a support in the formulation in order to obtain a good penetration property of the active agents in the keratinous materials.

For example, JP-T-2020-514263 discloses a cosmetic composition comprising from 30% to 89% by weight of at least one polar oil relative to the total weight of the composition, from 10% to 45% by weight of at least one polar oil. at least one C ₂ -C ₆ aliphatic monoalcohol relative to the total weight of the composition, and from 0.5% to 50% by weight of at least one polyol relative to the total weight of the composition, and at least one agent hydrophilic active ingredient, said composition comprising less than 7% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

However, there is a problem in that some cosmetic compositions comprising an oil and an alcohol are not stable. Therefore, there continues to be a demand for stable compositions comprising an oil and an alcohol for cosmetic use.

disclosure of the invention

An objective of the present invention is to provide a stable composition comprising an oil and an alcohol.

The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, comprising:

(a) at least one fatty alcohol,

(b) at least one fatty acid ester oil,

(c) at least one C ₂ -C ₄ diol, and

(d) water in an amount of 35% or less by weight of the total weight of the composition,

in which a total weight of oil(s) is less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (b) at least one fatty acid ester oil may be a monoester of fatty acids and a monoalcohol.

The (a) at least one fatty alcohol may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 14% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 7% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.7% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (b) at least one fatty acid ester oil may be present in an amount of 0.5% to 14.5% by weight, preferably 1% to 12% by weight, more preferably 2% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (c) at least one C ₂ -C ₄ diol may be present in an amount of 1% to 20% by weight, preferably 2% to 15% by weight, more preferably 3% to 12% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (d) water may be 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably 1% to 20% by weight, more preferably 3% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The total quantity of the oil(s) is 1.5% to 14% by weight, preferably 2.5% to 13% by weight, more preferably 4% to 12% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% to 11% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one monoalcohol, preferably in an amount of 40% to 80% by weight, more preferably 45% to 70% by weight, and even more preferably 48 % to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one polyol distinct from (c) at least one C ₂ -C ₄ diol.

The at least one polyol may comprise a combination of at least one C ₅ -C ₈ diol and at least one triol, preferably at least one C ₅ -C ₈ diol in an amount ranging from 1% to 30% by weight and at least one triol in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably at least one C ₅ -C ₈ diol in an amount ranging from 2% to 25% by weight and at least one triol in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 8% by weight, even more preferably at least one C ₅ -C ₈ diol in an amount ranging from 4% to 20% by weight and at least a triol in an amount ranging from 0.4% to 5% by weight, and in particular at least one C ₅ -C ₈ diol in an amount ranging from 8% to 15% by weight and at least one triol in an amount ranging from 0.8% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one hydrophilic active agent for the skin and/or scalp.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises an N-acylamino acid ester oil(s) in an amount less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, of more preferably less than 0.2% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises surfactants, such as cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, in an amount of 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 2% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

In one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is in the form of a homogeneous solution.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or conditioning a keratinous material, such as the skin, the scalp and/or the hair, comprising the application to the keratinous material of the composition according to the present invention. .

BEST MODE FOR IMPLEMENTING THE INVENTION

After diligent research, the inventors surprisingly discovered that the specific formulation of the composition comprising components (a) to (d), in which the total weight of oil(s) is less than 15% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition, exhibits improved stability and penetration property for an active ingredient for keratinous materials, while avoiding greasy feeling during application, and thus achieved the present invention.

Thus, the present invention relates to a composition, comprising:

(a) at least one fatty alcohol,

(b) at least one fatty acid ester oil,

(c) at least one C ₂ -C ₄ diol, and

(d) water in an amount of 35% or less by weight of the total weight of the composition,

in which a total weight of oil(s) is less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Below, the cosmetic composition and the cosmetic process according to the present invention will be explained in more detail.

[Composition]

The composition according to the present invention includes (a) at least one fatty alcohol, (b) at least one fatty acid ester oil, (c) at least one C ₂ -C ₄ diol, and (d) the water. The ingredients of the composition will be described in detail below.

(Fatty alcohol)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one fatty alcohol. Two or more types of fatty alcohols can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of fatty alcohol or a combination of different types of fatty alcohols can be used.

The term “fat” in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols which have 6 or more, preferably 8 or more, more preferably 10 or more, and even more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms fall within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohol can be saturated or unsaturated.

The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is chosen from a saturated or unsaturated radical, linear or branched, containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferred from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be chosen from C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkyl and C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is a saturated or unsaturated linear radical containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 atoms. of carbon.

The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is a branched radical, saturated or unsaturated, containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

As examples of fatty alcohol, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the fatty alcohol is a saturated fatty alcohol. Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the fatty alcohol is an unsaturated fatty alcohol. Thus, the fatty alcohol can be chosen from unsaturated, linear or branched C ₈ -C ₃₀ alcohols, preferably unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁₀ -C ₂₆ alcohols, and more preferably C ₁₂ alcohols. -C ₂₀ unsaturated, linear or branched.

Examples of unsaturated fatty alcohols include oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

The fatty alcohol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.3% by weight or more, more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and even more preferably 0.7% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The fatty alcohol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 14% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, more preferably 7% by weight or less, and even more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The fatty alcohol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 14% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 10%. by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 7% by weight, and even more preferably 0.7% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Fatty acid ester oil)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one fatty acid ester oil. Two or more types of fatty acid ester oils can be used in combination. So, a single type of fatty acid ester oil or a combination of different types of fatty acid ester oils can be used.

The term “fatty acid ester” here designates an ester formed of at least one fatty acid and at least one alcohol.

The fatty acid ester oils may be liquid fatty acid esters of saturated or unsaturated C ₄ -C ₃₀ fatty acids, linear or branched, and of saturated or saturated C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols. unsaturated, linear or branched, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

The fatty acid ester oils may be liquid esters of linear C ₄ -C ₂₆ saturated fatty acids, preferably of C ₆ -C ₂₀ aliphatic monoacids, and more preferably of C ₁₀ aliphatic monoacids. -C ₂₀ , and branched saturated C ₁ -C ₂₀ aliphatic monoalcohols, preferably C ₁ -C ₁₆ aliphatic monoalcohols, and even more preferably C ₁ -C ₈ aliphatic monoalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of esters being greater than or equal to 10.

The fatty acid ester oils of fatty acid monoesters and monoalcohols can be represented by the formula R ₁ COOR ₂ in which R ₁ represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid, preferably linear, comprising 4 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and more preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms, provided that R ₁ + R ₂ is ³ 10.

It is preferred that the alcohol of the fatty acid ester oils be branched.

Among the monoesters of fatty acids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

The fatty acid ester oil can be chosen from di and triesters of saturated or unsaturated acid, preferably saturated acid, including 2 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid and myristic acid.

As fatty acid ester oils, sugar esters and diesters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ and preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids can be used. It is recalled that the term “sugar” designates oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds comprising several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars which may be mentioned include sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, including alkyl derivatives, such than methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acids and preferably in C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ . If unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters can be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures of these such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

An example that can be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate ^® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Examples of preferable fatty acid ester oils include, for example, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2- 2-ethylhexyl ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, d laurate isohexyl, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-succinate ethylhexyl, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

The fatty acid ester oil(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight. weight or more, more preferably 2% by weight or more, and even more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The fatty acid ester oil(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 14.5% by weight or less, preferably 12% by weight. weight or less, more preferably 10% by weight or less, and even more preferably 8% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The fatty acid ester oil(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 14.5% by weight, preferably from 1% to 12% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Diol in C ₂ -C ₄ )

The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one C ₂ -C ₄ diol. Two or more types of C ₂ -C ₄ diols can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of C ₂ -C ₄ diol or a combination of different types of C ₂ -C ₄ diols can be used.

The C ₂ -C ₄ diol here means a diol having two to four carbon atoms. The C ₂ -C ₄ diol which is suitable for use in the present invention may be a linear or branched alkyl compound, saturated or unsaturated, carrying two -OH functions on the alkyl chain.

Preferably, the C ₂ -C ₄ diol usable in the composition according to the present invention is a compound of linear or branched alkyl type, preferably linear and saturated, carrying two -OH functions on the alkyl chain.

The C ₂ -C ₄ diol may preferably be chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propane diol, butylene glycol, 1,2-butane diol, 1,3-butane diol, 1,4-butane diol , and mixtures thereof.

In a further preferred embodiment, the C ₂ -C ₄ diol is chosen from C ₂ -C ₃ diols, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and 1,3-propane diol.

In a specific embodiment, the C ₂ -C ₄ diol is chosen from C ₃ diols, such as propylene glycol and 1,3-propane diol.

The C ₂ -C ₄ diol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more , more preferably 3% by weight or more, and even more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The C ₂ -C ₄ diol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 12% by weight or less, and even more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The C ₂ -C ₄ diol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15 % by weight, more preferably from 3% to 12% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Water)

The composition according to the present invention may comprise water.

The amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, more preferably 3% by weight or more, and even more preferably more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 35% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less, more preferably 15% by weight or less, and even more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of water in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 35% by weight, preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Oil)

In the composition according to the present invention, the total quantity of oil(s) is less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Here, “oil” means a compound or fatty substance which is in the form of a liquid or paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

(a) fatty alcohol and (b) fatty acid ester oil are classified under these oils. Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises an oil(s) including (a) at least one fatty alcohol and (b) at least one fatty acid ester oil in a proportion less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may or may not comprise at least one additional oil in addition to the fatty alcohol (a) and the fatty acid ester oil (b), as long as the total amount of the(s) ) oil(s) is less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Among the additional oils that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of: volatile or non-volatile oils; these oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils, in particular of animal or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrocarbon-based oil” or “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and atoms. /or phosphorus. Hydrocarbon-based oil does not include any silicon atoms.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polar oil” means an oil whose solubility parameter δ _a at 25°C is different from 0 (J/cm ³ ) ^1/2 .

In particular, the term "polar oil" means an oil whose chemical structure is essentially formed, or even made up, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one strongly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen atom, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus.

The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in Hansen's three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by CM Hansen: The three-dimensional solubility parameters , J. Paint Technol., 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space:

- δ _D characterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts;

- δ _p characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;

- δ _h characterizes the strengths of specific interactions (such as hydrogen bonds, acid/base bonds, donor/acceptor bonds, and the like);

- δ _a is determined by the equation: δ _a = (δ _p ² + δ _h ²) ^½ .

The parameters δ _p , δ _h , δ _D and δ _a are expressed in (J/cm ³ ) ^½ .

Preferably, the polar oils used according to the present invention have a δ _a of between 4 and 9.1, preferably a δ _a of between 6 and 9.1, even better between 7.3 and 9.1.

The oil may be a nonpolar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ether oil; or a mixture of these.

The supplemental oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.

Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, flaxseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil and mixtures thereof.

Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.

Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.

As ether oil, dialkyl ethers such as those represented by the following formula:

R ¹ -OR ²

in which

each of R ¹ and R ² independently represents a linear, branched or cyclic C ₄ -C ₂₄ alkyl group, preferably a C ₆ -C ₁₈ alkyl group, and more preferably a C ₈ -C ₁₂ alkyl group . It is preferable that R ¹ and R ² are identical.

As a linear alkyl group, mention may be made of a butyl group, a pentyl group, a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undecyl group, a dodecyl group, a tridecyl group, a tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl, eicosyl, behenyl, docosyl, tricosyl and tetracosyl.

As a branched alkyl group, mention may be made of a 1-methylpropyl group, a 2-methylpropyl group, a t-butyl group, a 1,1-dimethylpropyl group, a 3-methylhexyl group, a 5-methylhexyl group, a 1- ethylhexyl, a 2-ethylhexyl group, a 1-butylpentyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 1-ethylhexyl group, a 2-ethylhexyl group, a 1-butylpentyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 2-butyloctyl group, an isotridecyl group, a 2-pentylnonyl group, a 2-hexyldecyl group, an isostearyl group, a 2-heptylundecyl group, a 2-octyldodecyl group, a 1,3-dimethylbutyl group, a 1-(1-methylethyl)- group 2-methylpropyl, a 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl group, a 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl group, a 1-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl group, a 3,7-dimethyloctyl group, and a 2-(1,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group.

As the cyclic alkyl group, mention may be made of a cyclohexyl group, a 3-methylcyclohexyl group and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group.

As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made, for example, of capric/caprylic glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, tri(caprate/caprylate ) glyceryl, glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate/linolenate).

Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenopolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and the like; and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones which can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups fixed via a hydrocarbon group.

Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in the work of Walter Noll, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:

(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are for example octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone ^® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione ^® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone ^® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione ^® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold as Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. We can also cite cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile Silicone ^® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2 ,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; And

(ii) volatile linear polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5×10 ^-6 m ² /s at 25 °C. As an example, we can cite decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 76, pages 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics . The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM 445 Annex C.

Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which we can mainly cite polydimethylsiloxanes containing terminal trimethylsilyl groups.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be cited, without limitation:

- Silbione ^® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or Mirasil ^® oils marketed by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000;

- oils from the Mirasil ^® series sold by the company Rhodia;

- 200 series oils from the Dow Corning company, such as DC200 whose viscosity is 60,000 mm ² /s; And

- Viscasil ^® oils from the General Electric company and certain SF series oils (SF 96, SF 18) from the General Electric company.

We can also cite polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol terminal groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the 48 series oils from the company Rhodia.

Among the silicones with aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.

The phenyl silicone oil can be chosen from phenyl silicones of the following formula:

in which

R ₁ to R ₁₀ , independently of each other, are C ₁ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon radicals, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, preferably C ₁ -C ₁₂ hydrocarbon radicals, and more preferably C ₁ -C ₆ hydrocarbon radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and

m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers from 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably from 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably from 0 to 100 inclusive,

provided that the sum n+m+q is different from 0.

Examples that may be mentioned include products sold under the following names:

- Silbione ^® oils from the 70 641 series from Rhodia;

- oils from the Rhodorsil ^® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia;

- Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;

- silicones from the PK series from Bayer, such as the PK20 product;

- certain General Electric SF series oils, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

As a phenyl silicone oil, phenyltrimethicone (R ₁ to R ₁₀ are methyl; p, q and n = 0; m = 1 in the above formula) is preferable.

Organomodified liquid silicones may in particular contain polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups. We can thus cite the KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and the Silwet ^® L722 and L77 oils from the Union Carbide company.

Hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from:

- lower C ₆ -C ₁₆ alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. We can include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane;

- linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam ^® , and squalane; And

- mixtures of alkanes, for example, C _9-12 alkane, C _10-13 alkane, C _13-14 alkane, C _13-15 alkane, C _14-17 alkane, C _14- alkane ₁₉ , C _15-19 alkane, C _15-23 alkane, C _18-21 alkane, C _8-9 alkane/cycloalkane, C _9-10 alkane/cycloalkane, C _9-11 alkane/cycloalkane, C _9-16 alkane/cycloalkane, C _10-12 alkane/cycloalkane, C _11-14 alkane/cycloalkane, C _11-15 alkane/cycloalkane, C _12-13 alkane/cycloalkane.

As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made, for example, of linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (for example, liquid paraffin), paraffin, petroleum jelly or petrolatum, naphthalenes and similar; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

It is also preferable that the additional oil is chosen from oils whose molecular weight is less than 600 g/mol.

The total amount of the oil(s) including the (a) fatty alcohol and (b) fatty acid ester oil may be 14% by weight or less, preferably 13% by weight or less, more preferably 12% by weight or less, and even more preferably 11% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The total amount of the oil(s) including the (a) fatty alcohol and (b) fatty acid ester oil may be 1.5% by weight or more, preferably 2.5 % by weight or more, more preferably 4% by weight or more, and even more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The total amount of the oil(s) including the (a) fatty alcohol and the (b) fatty acid ester oil may be from 1.5% to 14% by weight, preferably 2. 5% to 13% by weight, more preferably 4% to 12% by weight, and even more preferably 5% to 11% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a specific embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises N-acylamino acid ester oil(s) in an amount less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight. weight, more preferably less than 0.2% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In another specific embodiment according to the present invention, the composition is free of N-acylamino acid ester oil. As an example of an N-acylamino acid ester oil, we can cite isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate.

In another specific embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises ether oil(s) in an amount less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, more preferably less at 2% by weight, and even more preferably less than 1% by weight, and in particular less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In another specific embodiment according to the present invention, the composition is free of ether oils.

(Other ingredients)

- Monoalcohol

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one monoalcohol. Two or more monoalcohols may be used in combination.

The monoalcohol may be soluble in water. The term "water-soluble alcohol" herein means an alcohol that can dissolve in an amount of 0.1 g or more, 0.5 g or more, or 1 g or more in 100 ml of water at room temperature (25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (10 ⁵ Pa).

The monoalcohol may be a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monoalcohol, having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, and preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, carrying a single hydroxyl function (OH).

In one embodiment, the monoalcohol may be an aliphatic monoalcohol having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, and preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

The term “aliphatic monoalcohol” here designates any saturated alkane compound, linear or branched, carrying only a single hydroxyl function (OH).

The aliphatic monoalcohol(s) present in the composition of the present invention may be chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol and mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the monoalcohol can be chosen from linear aliphatic monoalcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, and preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises the monoalcohol(s), in particular ethanol, in an amount of 40% by weight or more, more preferably 45% by weight or more, and in a manner even more preferred 48% by weight or more; and preferably 80% by weight or less, more preferably 70% by weight or less, and even more preferably 60% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of monoalcohol may be from 40% to 80% by weight, preferably from 45% to 70% by weight, more preferably from 48% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

- Polyol other than C ₂ -C ₄ diol

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one polyol. Two or more polyols may be used in combination.

In the context of the present invention, the term “polyol” must be understood to mean any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. The polyol may be soluble in water.

The polyol which is suitable in the context of the present invention may be a compound of linear, branched or cyclic alkyl type, saturated or unsaturated, carrying at least two -OH functions on the alkyl chain.

Preferably, a polyol usable in the composition according to the present invention is a compound of linear or branched alkyl type, preferably linear, carrying at least two -OH functions, preferably 2 to 5 -OH functions, more preferably 2 with 4 -OH functions, and even more preferably 2 or 3 -OH functions on the alkyl chain.

The polyols which are advantageously suitable for formulating the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are in particular those having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms or for example from 3 to 6 carbon atoms.

The polyols which can be used according to the present invention are chosen from linear or branched polyols, preferably linear, having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; we can in particular cite:

- C ₅ -C ₈ diols such as hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol and isoprene glycol; And

- triols, such as glycerol (glycerin),

and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one C ₅ -C ₈ diol in an amount of 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, more preferably 4% by weight. weight or more, and even more preferably 8% by weight or more; and 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less, more preferably 20% by weight or less, and even more preferably 15% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

In another embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one trio in an amount of 0.1 wt% or more, preferably 0.2 wt% or more, more preferably 0. 4% by weight or more, and even more preferably 0.8% by weight or more; and 10% by weight or less, preferably 8% by weight or less, more preferably 5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 3% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the polyol comprises a combination of at least one C ₅ -C ₈ diol and at least one triol, preferably a C ₅ -C ₈ diol in an amount ranging from 1% to 30% by weight and a triol in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably a C ₅ -C ₈ diol in an amount ranging from 2% to 25% by weight and a triol in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 8% by weight, even more preferably a C ₅ -C ₈ diol in an amount ranging from 4% to 20% by weight and a triol in an amount ranging from 0.4% to 5% by weight, and in particular a C ₅ -C ₈ diol in an amount ranging from 8% to 15% by weight and a triol in an amount ranging from 0.8% to 3% by weight , relative to the total weight of the composition.

The polyol(s) other than the C ₂ -C ₄ diol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0, 5% to 30% by weight, preferably 1% to 20% by weight, and more preferably 1.5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

- Hydrophilic active agent

The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent. Two or more hydrophilic active agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of hydrophilic active agent or a combination of different types of hydrophilic active agents can be used.

By “hydrophilic active agent”, we mean here an active agent for the scalp and/or skin, which is soluble in water at a concentration of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the water. at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (10 ⁵ Pa).

As hydrophilic active agents, mention may be made, for example, of moisturizers, depigmenting agents, desquamating agents, anti-aging agents, mattifying agents, healing agents, ingredients promoting blood circulation, antibacterial agents and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, said hydrophilic active agent is chosen from C-glycosides, salicylic acid, salicylic acid derivatives and mixtures thereof.

In a first embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic active agent chosen from the C-glycosides of the following general formula (I):

(I)

in which :

- R represents a linear C ₁ -C ₄ and in particular unsubstituted C ₁ -C ₂ alkyl radical, in particular methyl;

- S represents a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;

- X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)- and -CH(NH ₂ )- and preferably a group -CH(OH)-;

and also their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates, and their optical isomers.

By way of non-limiting illustrations of C-glycoside derivatives of formula (I) more particularly suitable for the present invention, the following compounds may in particular be cited:

- C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one;

- C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one;

- C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane;

- C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane;

- 1-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane;

- 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane;

- 1-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane;

- 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane;

- 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one;

- 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one;

- 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane;

- 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane;

- as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates, and their optical isomers.

According to a particular embodiment, C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane is used, and better still C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane .

According to a particular embodiment, a C-glycoside of formula (I) suitable for the invention can advantageously be C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, whose INCI name is HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYR ANTRIOL, sold in particular under the name name MEXORYL SBB ^® or MEXORYL SCN ^® by NOVEAL. The salts of the C-glycosides of formula (I) suitable for the invention may include the conventional physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. Examples which may be mentioned include salts of mineral acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid and boric acid. Mention may also be made of salts of organic acids, which may comprise one or more groups of carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acids. These may be linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids, or even aromatic acids. These acids may also contain one or more heteroatoms chosen from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. Mention may in particular be made of propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.

Solvates which are acceptable for the compounds described above include conventional solvates such as those formed during the final step of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. Examples that may be mentioned include solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol.

C-glycosides (I) are also known from document WO 02/051828.

In another particular embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic active agent chosen from salicylic acid and salicylic acid derivatives, in particular of formula (II) below:

(II),

in which :

- the Ra radical designates:

- a saturated aliphatic chain, linear, branched or cyclic, containing 2 to 22 carbon atoms;

- an unsaturated chain containing 2 to 22 carbon atoms, comprising one or more double bonds that can be conjugated;

- an aromatic nucleus linked to the carbonyl radical directly or via saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains containing 2 to 7 carbon atoms;

said groups being able to be substituted by one or more identical or different substituents chosen from:

(a) halogen atoms,

(b) the trifluoromethyl group,

(c) hydroxyl groups in free form or in form esterified with an acid containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or

(d) a carboxyl function in free form or in esterified form with a lower alcohol containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

- Rb is a hydroxyl group;

as well as salts thereof derived from a mineral or organic base.

According to one embodiment, the radical Ra represents:

- a saturated aliphatic chain, linear, branched or cyclic, containing 3 to 11 carbon atoms; Or

- an unsaturated chain containing 3 to 17 carbon atoms and comprising one or more conjugated or non-conjugated double bonds;

said hydrocarbon chains being able to be substituted by one or more identical or different substituents chosen from:

(a) halogen atoms;

(b) the trifluoromethyl group;

(c) hydroxyl groups in free form or in a form esterified with an acid containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms; Or

(d) a carboxyl function in free form or in esterified form with a lower alcohol containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

as well as salts thereof obtained by salification with a mineral or organic base. The more particularly preferred compounds are those in which the Ra radical is a C ₃ -C ₁₁ alkyl group.

Among the particularly preferred compounds of formula (II), the following may be cited: 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (or capryloylsalicylic acid); 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid; 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid; 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, and corresponding salts thereof.

The salicylic acid compound is advantageously chosen from salicylic acid and 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid. 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid will be more particularly used. 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (or capryloylsalicylic acid) is supplied under the name Mexoryl SAB ^® by the company Chimex.

Examples of inorganic bases which may be mentioned include alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, for example sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia. Among the organic bases which may be mentioned, mention may be made of amines and alkanolamines. Quaternary salts, for example those described in patent FR 2 607 498, are particularly advantageous. The compounds of formula (II) which can be used according to the invention are described in patents US 6,159,479, US 5,558,871, FR 2,581,542, FR 2,607,498, US 4,767,750, EP 378,936, US 5,267,407 , US 5,667,789, US 5,580,549 and EP A-570,230.

As another hydrophilic active agent, mention may be made of an ingredient promoting blood circulation, such as Dl-α-tocopherol acetate, tocopherol nicotinate, glucosyl hesperidin, hesperidin, caffeine, γ-oryzanol, capsaicin, benzyl ester of nicotinic acid, and the like.

As another hydrophilic active agent, mention may be made of an amino acid or its derivative, such as betaine (trimethylglycine), proline, hydroxyproline, arginine, lysine, serine, glycine, alanine, phenylalanine, β-alanine, threonine, glutamic acid, glutamine, aspartic acid, cysteine, cystine, methionine, leucine, isoleucine, valine, histidine, threonine, tyrosine, taurine, γ-aminobutyric acid, γ-amino-β-hydroxybutyric acid, carnitine, carnosine, creatine, epsilon aminocaproic acid, tryptophan and the like .

As another hydrophilic active agent, mention may be made of water-soluble polysaccharides, such as gums, for example gellan gum, xanthan gum, sclerotia gum, locust bean gum, biosaccharide gum, tamarind gum, quince gum, gum arabic, carrageenan, tara gum, guar gum, galactan, acacia gum, tragacanth gum, curdlan, succinoglucan, etc. ; heparin-like substances; alginic acids, and the like.

The hydrophilic active agent(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight or more, 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferably 1% to 12% by weight, even more preferably 2% to 10% by weight or more, and in particular 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

- Non-ionic surfactant

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one nonionic surfactant. Two or more nonionic surfactants may be used in combination.

Examples of nonionic surfactants which can be used in the compositions of the present invention include polyethoxylated fatty alcohols or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, such as the adducts of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, in particular those containing 9 at 50 units of oxyethylene (Laureth-9 to Laureth-50 according to the INCI names), in particular Laureth-9; esters of polyols and of a fatty acid having a saturated or unsaturated chain comprising for example from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, that is to say comprising oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, such as esters of glycerol and of a C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, in particular polyoxyethylenated glycerol stearate (mono-, di- and/or sadearate), for example PEG-20 glycerol triisostearate ; esters of sugar and a C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acid and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, such as polyethoxylated sorbitol esters of C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids, in particular Polysorbate 21, such as the marketed product under the name “TWEEN 21” by Croda; ethers of a sugar and of C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty alcohols, such as caprylyl/capryl glucoside; hydrophobized polysaccharides; polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers; polyoxyethylene oxypropylene alkyl ethers; alkanolamides of fatty acids; alkylamine oxides; alkyl polyglycosides and silicone surfactants, such as polydimethylsiloxane containing oxyethylene groups and/or oxypropylene groups, for example, dimethicone PEG-10, dimethicone bis-PEG/PPG-14/14, dimethicone bis-PEG/PPG -20/20 and dimethicone PEG/PPG-20/6; and polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid such as polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-oleate 2, and polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate; and mixtures thereof.

In addition, alkylpolyglycosides can be mentioned as nonionic surfactants, represented by the following general formula (1):

RO-(G) _x (1)

in which R represents a branched and/or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 14 to 24 carbon atoms, G represents a reduced sugar comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms and x denotes a value ranging from 1 to 10 and preferably from 1 to 4 , and G designates in particular glucose, fructose or galactose. Mention may be made, as alkyl polyglycosides of this type, of alkyl polyglucosides (G = glucose in formula (I)) and in particular of compounds of formula (I) in which R represents more particularly an oleyl radical (unsaturated radical in C ₁₈ ) or isostearyl (saturated C ₁₈ radical), G designates glucose and x is a value ranging from 1 to 2, in particular isostearyl glucoside, oleyl glucoside and their mixtures. This alkyl polyglucoside can be used in mixture with a coemulsifier, more particularly with a fatty alcohol and in particular a fatty alcohol having the same fatty chain as that of the alkyl polyglucoside, that is to say comprising from 14 to 24 atoms of carbon and having a branched and/or unsaturated chain, for example isostearyl alcohol when the alkyl polyglucoside is isostearyl glucoside and oleyl alcohol when the alkyl polyglucoside is oleyl glucoside.

The nonionic surfactant(s) may be present in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, more preferably 0.5% by weight or more. preferably from to 1% by weight or more, even more preferably from 1.3% by weight or more, and in particular from 1.5% by weight or more, and/or may be present in an amount of 10% by weight or less, preferably 7% by weight or less, more preferably 5% by weight or less, and in particular 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

- Adjuvants

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more of the adjuvants common in the fields of cosmetics and dermatology, chosen from a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular water-soluble organic solvents; cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants; cationic, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; gelling agents; thickeners; penetration agents; pH adjusters; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; moisturizers; emollients; lipophilic active agents; free radical scavengers; suspension agents; sequestering agents; tampons; perfumes; emollients; dispersing agents; dyes and/or pigments; film-forming agents; stabilizers; conservatives; co-conservators; opacifying agents; and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise plant extracts, such as extracts of Nymphaeaceae plants, for example, Nymphaea alba root extract.

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise non-ionic guar gum, such as hydroxypropyl guar gum, in particular hydroxypropyl guar gum having more than 0.6 degree of substitution. The term "degree of substitution" here refers to the average substitution of nonionic groups per unit of anhydrous sugar in polygalactomannan gums. As commercially available non-ionic guar gum products, we can cite hydroxypropyl guar gum sold under the name Jaguar ^® HSG by SOLVAY.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to select the optional adjuvant(s) added to the composition according to the invention in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the invention do not are not, or are not significantly, negatively affected by the planned addition.

The adjuvants may be present in the composition of the present invention in an amount preferably ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0. 5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention can take various forms, such as a solution, a gel, a lotion, a serum, a suspension, a dispersion, a fluid, a milk, a paste, a cream, a foam, an emulsion ( in O/W or W/O form), multiple emulsions (e.g., W/O/W, polyol/O/W and O/W/O) and the like. In a specific embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is in the form of a solution, in particular a homogeneous solution. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “homogeneous” designates a composition consisting of a single phase.

In a specific embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises surfactants, such as cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, which are different from components (a) to (c) of the present invention, in an amount 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 2% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention is a cosmetic composition. In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is intended for topical application, in particular on keratinous materials.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “keratinous materials” means skin and keratinous fibers. The term “skin” as used herein includes the skin of the face and/or body and the scalp. The term "keratinous fiber" used here includes eyelashes, eyebrows and hair.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is intended for topical application to keratinous materials such as the scalp and hair. In one embodiment, the composition may be a hair care and/or scalp care and/or skin care composition.

The composition used according to the present invention is preferably intended to be used as a leave-on type cosmetic composition. The term “leave-in” refers to a composition that is not intended to be washed/rinsed or removed immediately after application. A leave-on composition is different from a rinse-off type composition, which is intended to be removed by rinsing after being used on keratinous materials.

The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential and optional ingredients above according to any of the processes well known to those skilled in the art.

[Cosmetic process and use]

The present invention relates to a cosmetic process for the care or conditioning of a keratinous material, such as the hair, the scalp and/or the skin, comprising the application to the keratinous material of the composition according to the present invention.

By cosmetic process, we mean here a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and/or conditioning of a keratinous material.

The application step can be carried out by any conventional means such as an applicator, for example the hands, a spray, and a brush. The application step may be a topical application step.

The composition according to the present invention is intended to be used as a leave-in type cosmetic composition. Consequently, the cosmetic process according to the present invention does not include a step of rinsing or washing the applied composition of the keratinous material after the application step. In one embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic process of the present invention does not include a step of rinsing or washing the composition applied within one hour, preferably within 2 hours, more preferably within within 4 hours, and even more preferably within 8 hours after the application step.

Furthermore, the present invention also relates to a use of the composition according to the present invention in the field of cosmetics, in particular the care and/or conditioning of a keratinous material.

EXAMPLES

The present invention will be described in more detail using examples which should not, however, be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention.

(Stability)

The compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7 were prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 1. The hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol product from MEXORYL SCN ^® was obtained from NOVEAL. The numerical values of ingredient quantities shown in Table 1 are all based on “% by weight” as active raw materials.

10 g of each of the compositions obtained were stored at 4 °C, 25 °C, and 45 °C for two months after their manufacture, respectively. The stability property was evaluated for each composition according to the following criteria.

OK: No phase separation was confirmed at any of the temperatures of 4°C, 25°C, and 45°C.

NG: The ingredient was not soluble or phase separation occurred at 4°C, 25°C, and/or 45°C.

Ingredient Example 1 Ex. comp. 1 Ex.
comp. 2 Ex. comp. 3 Ex. comp. 4 Ex. comp. 5 Ex. comp. 6 Ethanol qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 DI water 6.35 14.35 13.35 6.35 14.35 14.35 6.35 Glycerin 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 Propylene glycol 8 - 8 8 - - 8 Pentylene glycol 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol 8.7 8.7 8.7 8.7 8.7 8.7 8.7 Polysorbate 21 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate - - 1 1 1 1 1 Oleyl alcohol 3.75 3.75 3.75 3.75 3.75 3.75 3.75 Dicaprylyl ether - - - 7 7 - 3.75 Isopropyl myristate 7 7 - - - 7 7 Menthol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.3 Assessment Stability OK N.G. N.G. N.G. N.G. N.G. N.G.

As can be seen in the results of Table 1, the compositions according to Examples 1 comprising ingredients (a) to (d) of the present invention, were stable. On the other hand, the compositions according to comparative examples 1 to 6 did not show good stability.

(Penetration analysis)

The compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 7 and 8 were evaluated with regard to the transdermal penetration property of the active ingredients according to a test with a Franz cell (static diffusion cell) as below. The formulation of the compositions according to Comparative Examples 7 and 8 is shown in Tables 2 and 3 below, respectively. The numerical values for ingredient quantities in Tables 2 and 3 are all based on “% by weight” as active raw materials. These compositions were prepared in the same way as Example 1 above.

Ingredients Ex. comp. 7 (prior technique) Ethanol qs 100 Glycerin 1.5 Pentylene Glycol 23.35 Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol 8.67 Arginine 0.1 Oleyl alcohol 10 Octyldodecanol 29.88 Ricinus Communis Seed Oil 7.5 Camelina Sativa Seed Oil 4

Ingredients Ex. comp. 8 Acacia Gum Senegal 0.5 Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol 8.67 Acetylated sodium hyaluronate 0.1 Pentylene glycol 12 Propanediol 2 Propylene glycol 3.75 Polysorbate 21 1 Ethanol 4.65 Menthol 0.3 DI water qs 100

A pig skin sample for testing was prepared according to the following procedure. First, the skin on the outer side of the pig's ear pinna was carefully separated from the cartilage using a scalpel, and the pig's hair was carefully shaved to the same length at the using a hair clipper. After removing the adipose tissue under the skin, a dermatome (Zimmer ^® ) was used to quantify the skin thickness at 750 μm and the experimental part without any damage was then carefully selected.

The composition according to each of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 7 and 8 was applied to the skin sample using a spatula or a positive displacement pipette. The exact amount applied to the skin was determined by weighing the spatula or positive displacement pipette containing the composition to be applied before and after application so that the applied amount of the composition was approximately 5 mg/cm ² . The skin was air dried for 2 minutes. The skin was then mounted on a Franz cell. The Franz cell had an application area of 2 cm ² and a cell receptor fluid was 3 mL of 0.9% (w/w) NaCl solution in water. The receiving fluid was stirred during testing. The pigskin is located between the donor compartment and the receiver compartment with the application surface of 2 cm ² mentioned above. The temperature of the pigskin was maintained at 32°C. After 16 hours, the skin surface was washed with a proper protocol to ensure removal of any chemicals remaining on the skin surface, the pigskin was removed, and then the Stratum Corneum was removed by 10 consecutive strips of adhesive tape (DSquam ^® ). The active ingredients (hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol) present in the receptor fluid, the epidermis and the dermis were analyzed by LC/MS. For each composition, three triplicate donors (n=9) were used.

The average value of the amount (μg per cm ² of skin) of the active ingredient that passed through the Stratum Corneum of the pig skin was calculated and is shown in Table 4.

Example 1 Ex. comp. 7 Ex. comp. 8 Penetration rate (μg/cm ² ) 33.1±20.2 38.2±25.5 6.3±2.1

As can be seen in the results of Table 4, the use of the composition according to Example 1 showed a superior penetration property of the active ingredients.

(Sensory evaluations)

The composition according to Example 2 was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 5. The hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol product from MEXORYL SCN ^® was obtained from NOVEAL. Hydroxypropyl guar gum products Jaguar ^® HP 120 and Jaguar ^® HSG were obtained from Solvay. WATER LILY PRO ^® Nymphaea Alba root extract product was obtained from LIPOID KOSMETIK. The numerical values of ingredient quantities shown in Table 1 are all based on “% by weight” as active raw materials.

The composition according to Example 2 was stable even after being stored at 25°C for two months after its manufacture, i.e. no phase separation was observed.

Ingredients Example 2 Ethanol qs 100 DI water 7.18 Glycerin 1.5 Propylene glycol 7 Nymphaea Alba Root Extract 0.25 Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol 8.7 Hydroxypropyl guar gum 0.4 Isostearyl alcohol 1 Isopropyl myristate 5 Menthol 0.3 Scent 0.5

Three strands of hair (1 g, 27 cm) were prepared for each experiment. Each of the hair sections was washed once with a clarifying shampoo. The formulation of the clarifying shampoo is shown in Table 6 below. After shampooing, the section of hair was rinsed with water and then dried with a towel. 0.2 g of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Example 7 were applied to each strand of hair, then the strand of hair was dried with a hair dryer to obtain a treated strand of hair.

Ingredients Cleansing shampoo Hexylene glycol 1 Sodium chloride 1 Coco-betaine 9 Sodium laureth sulfate 15 Polyquaternium-10 0.3 Sodium benzoate 0.5 Salicylic acid 0.2 Citric acid qs pH 5.3 Sodium hydroxide qs pH 5.3 DI water qs 100

The feeling of oiliness of the treated hair strands was evaluated by 6 panelists according to the following criteria. The reference point is the result of evaluating the hair strand itself, i.e. without the application of any composition.

5: Much above the reference point

4: Greater than the reference point

3: Equality with the reference point

2: Lower than the reference point

1: Much lower than the reference point

The scores thus obtained were averaged. The results are shown in Table 7. The compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 were considered acceptable as topical cosmetic compositions in particular for hair, skin and scalp, by the panelists, while the composition according to comparative example 7 was not considered acceptable.

Example 1 Example 2 Ex. com. 7 Fat 3.5 2.25 5.0

As can be seen in the results of Table 7, the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 were able to confer a better texture, that is to say a less greasy texture, to the hair.

Therefore, it can be concluded that the composition according to the present invention is very suitable as a cosmetic composition, in particular as a topical cosmetic composition for keratinous materials. In particular, the composition according to the present invention is very useful as a topical leave-in cosmetic composition because it has a less greasy texture and better penetration property of the active ingredients. Accordingly, it can be said that the compositions according to the present invention are very useful for the topical delivery of active ingredients to keratinous materials, such as the skin and/or scalp.

Claims (10)

Composition including:
(a) at least one fatty alcohol,
(b) at least one fatty acid ester oil,
(c) at least one C ₂ -C ₄ diol,
(d) water in an amount of 35% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composition,
in which a total quantity of oil(s) is less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the (b) at least one fatty acid ester oil is a monoester of fatty acids and a monoalcohol. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, in which the (a) at least one fatty alcohol is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 14% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 10% by weight, of more preferably from 0.5% to 7% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.7% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the (b) at least one fatty acid ester oil is present in an amount of 0.5% to 14.5% by weight, preferably of 1% to 12% by weight, more preferably 2% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably 3% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, in which the (c) at least one C ₂ -C ₄ diol is present in an amount of 1% to 20% by weight, preferably 2% to 15%. by weight, more preferably from 3% to 12% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, in which the quantity of the (d) water is from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, further comprising at least one polyol distinct from (c) at least one C ₂ -C ₄ diol. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, further comprising at least one hydrophilic active agent for the skin and/or scalp. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, which is in the form of a homogeneous solution. Cosmetic process for the care and/or conditioning of a keratinous material, such as the skin, the scalp and/or the hair, comprising the application to the keratinous material of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9.