FR2926220A1 - Use of Pancratium maritimum extract as cosmetic antioxidizing agent and/or melanogenesis inhibitor in cosmetic composition e.g. to prevent/fight against the signs of skin aging, and for depigmenting of the skin, body hair and/or hair - Google Patents
Use of Pancratium maritimum extract as cosmetic antioxidizing agent and/or melanogenesis inhibitor in cosmetic composition e.g. to prevent/fight against the signs of skin aging, and for depigmenting of the skin, body hair and/or hair Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- FR2926220A1 FR2926220A1 FR0850234A FR0850234A FR2926220A1 FR 2926220 A1 FR2926220 A1 FR 2926220A1 FR 0850234 A FR0850234 A FR 0850234A FR 0850234 A FR0850234 A FR 0850234A FR 2926220 A1 FR2926220 A1 FR 2926220A1
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- France
- Prior art keywords
- extract
- skin
- composition
- plant
- cosmetic
- Prior art date
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- Granted
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- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
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- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
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Abstract
Description
UTILISATION COSMETIQUE D'UN EXTRAIT DE LA PLANTE PANCRATIUM MARITIMUM COMME AGENT COSMETIQUE ANTIOXYDANT ET/OU INHIBITEUR DE LA MELANOGENESE La présente invention concerne essentiellement l'utilisation d'un extrait de la plante Pancratium maritimum comme agent cosmétique ou pour la préparation d'une composition pharmaceutique antioxydante et/ou inhibitrice de 10 la mélanogenèse. Au cours de la mélanogenèse, les mélanocytes localisés dans la couche basale de l'épiderme, synthétisent un pigment sombre, la mélanine. Au sein des mélanocytes, les réactions d'oxydation conduisant à la formation de mélanines sont 15 principalement catalysées par la tyrosinase. La mélanogenèse est également dépendante de la communication intercellulaire entre les mélanocytes et les autres cellules de l'épiderme, particulièrement les kératinocytes et les fibres nerveuses. Le niveau de tyrosinase et son activité sont modulés par la 20 libération de substances actives par les kératinocytes, en particulier l'endothéline. Une diminution de la libération de l'endothéline par les keratinocytes ou une diminution de la fixation de l'endothéline sur son récepteur mélanocytaire provoque une inhibition de la production de mélanine. 25 Depuis plusieurs années, on constate un intérêt croissant pour les produits présentant une activité inhibitrice sur la mélanogénèse aussi bien dans le domaine de la cosmétique que de la médecine. La mélanine peut former des taches de pigmentation qui 30 peuvent notamment être des taches de vieillesse, solaires ou liées à une phototoxicité, à des chloasmas ou à certaines pathologies. 5 15 20 25 30 Ainsi, l'utilisation d'inhibiteurs de la synthèse de mélanine est particulièrement intéressante en cosmétologie, non seulement pour des applications où une véritable dépigmentation est recherchée comme dans le cas du blanchiment de peau fortement pigmentée ou l'inhibition de l'hyperpigmentation dans certains aspects inesthétiques par exemple, mais également pour des applications visant à éclaircir le teint, à donner de la luminosité, de l'éclat à la peau. Cette inhibition de la synthèse de mélanine peut être aussi particulièrement intéressante dans le cadre de la prévention ou du traitement de pathologies ou de troubles liés à la mélanogenèse. Un certain nombre de substances ont montré une activité inhibitrice sur la mélanogenèse, en particulier via une action inhibitrice de la tyrosinase, mais certaines d'entre elles ne peuvent être utilisées ni en niveau médical à cause de leur toxicité, secondaires indésirables, tant cutanés que fait de la lenteur excessive de leur d'exemples de telles substances, on mercure, le monobenzyléther l' isopropylcatéchol, le monométhyléther d'hydroquinone (MMEH), l'hydroquinone et les dermocorticoïdes. En outre, toutes les mélanines ne sont pas protectrices et il existe une forme particulière de mélanine, appelée phaeomélanine qui est extrêmement phototoxique. En effet, la phaeomélanine provoque sous l'action des ultraviolets de type B (UVB), la formation de radicaux libres, susceptibles d'induire des mutations dans l'ADN des kératinocytes. De plus, les radicaux libres et plus largement les espèces réactives de l'oxygène sont à l'origine des cosmétique de leurs systémiques action. À ni au effets ou du titre peut citer les sels de d'hydroquinone (MBEH), phénomènes de stress oxydant dont l'importance dans de nombreuses pathologies est maintenant largement démontrée. En outre, il est démontré que des phénomènes de stress oxydatifs peuvent avoir pour conséquence de faire apparaître une pigmentation excessive au niveau cutané Il est donc intéressant de développer des produits présentant à la fois une activité inhibitrice de la mélanogenèse et une activité antioxydante permettant de lutter notamment contre les espèces réactives de l'oxygène. COSMETIC USE OF AN EXTRACT FROM THE PANCRATIUM MARITIMUM PLANT AS ANTIOXIDANT COSMETIC AGENT AND / OR INHIBITOR OF MELANOGENESIS The present invention essentially relates to the use of an extract of the plant Pancratium maritimum as a cosmetic agent or for the preparation of a composition antioxidant and / or inhibitory pharmaceutical of melanogenesis. During melanogenesis, melanocytes located in the basal layer of the epidermis, synthesize a dark pigment, melanin. Within melanocytes, oxidation reactions leading to the formation of melanins are predominantly catalyzed by tyrosinase. Melanogenesis is also dependent on intercellular communication between melanocytes and other epidermal cells, particularly keratinocytes and nerve fibers. The level of tyrosinase and its activity are modulated by the release of active substances by keratinocytes, particularly endothelin. Decreased release of endothelin by keratinocytes or decreased endothelin binding to its melanocyte receptor results in inhibition of melanin production. For several years, there has been a growing interest in products having inhibitory activity on melanogenesis both in the field of cosmetics and medicine. Melanin may form pigmentation spots which may in particular be age spots, sun spots or related to phototoxicity, chloasmas or certain pathologies. Thus, the use of inhibitors of melanin synthesis is of particular interest in cosmetology, not only for applications where a true depigmentation is sought as in the case of highly pigmented skin whitening or the inhibition of hyperpigmentation in some unsightly aspects for example, but also for applications to lighten the complexion, to give brightness, radiance to the skin. This inhibition of melanin synthesis may also be particularly advantageous in the context of the prevention or treatment of pathologies or disorders related to melanogenesis. A certain number of substances have shown an inhibitory activity on melanogenesis, in particular via a tyrosinase inhibitory action, but some of them can not be used either in medical terms because of their toxicity, undesirable side-effects, both cutaneous and The excessive sluggishness of their examples of such substances is mercury, monobenzyl ether, isopropylcatechol, hydroquinone monomethyl ether (MMEH), hydroquinone and topical corticosteroids. In addition, not all melanins are protective and there is a particular form of melanin, called phaeomelanin which is extremely phototoxic. Indeed, the phaeomelanin causes under the action of type B ultraviolet (UVB), the formation of free radicals, likely to induce mutations in the DNA of keratinocytes. In addition, free radicals and more generally reactive oxygen species are at the origin of the cosmetics of their systemic action. To the effects or title may mention the hydroquinone salts (MBEH), oxidative stress phenomena whose importance in many pathologies is now widely demonstrated. In addition, it has been shown that oxidative stress phenomena can have the consequence of causing excessive skin pigmentation. It is therefore advantageous to develop products having both an inhibitory activity of melanogenesis and an antioxidant activity which makes it possible to fight especially against the reactive species of oxygen.
De manière surprenante, les inventeurs ont établi qu'un extrait de la plante Pancratium maritimum présentait une activité antioxydante et inhibitrice de la mélanogenèse, via l'inhibition de la liaison de l'endothéline à son récepteur. Ainsi selon un premier aspect, l'invention a pour objet l'utilisation cosmétique d'un extrait de la plante Pancratium maritimum comme agent cosmétique antioxydant et/ou inhibiteur de la mélanogenèse dans une composition cosmétique. En particulier, l'extrait de la plante Pancratium maritimum peut être utilisé comme agent cosmétique inhibiteur de la mélanogenèse induite par les rayons ultraviolets, dans une composition cosmétique. On entend par Pancratium maritimum , la plante vivace bulbeuse de la famille des amaryllidacées plus communément appelée Lys de mer ou Lys des sables. L'inflorescence de cette plante, composée d'une petite dizaine de fleurs, est portée par une tige d'une trentaine de centimètres émergeant d'un bulbe enterré dans le sable. Les compositions cosmétiques selon l'invention, du fait des propriétés antioxydantes de l'extrait de la plante Pancratium maritimum, sont destinées à fournir, notamment à la peau, une protection efficace contre les dommages cellulaires causés par des facteurs toxiques extrinsèques comme les radiations ultraviolettes, le vent et les facteurs toxiques intrinsèques comme le vieillissement et les modifications biochimiques de la peau, incluant les espèces réactives à l'oxygène. En particulier, les compositions cosmétiques selon l'invention sont destinées à : (i) prévenir et/ou lutter contre les signes du vieillissement cutané ; et/ou (ii) améliorer la texture de la peau et raviver l'éclat de la peau ; et/ou (iii) améliorer l'uniformité et la clarté de la peau et/ou (iv) blanchir la peau ; et/ou (v) dépigmenter la peau et/ou les poils et/ou les cheveux ; et/ou (vi) prévenir et/ou réduire et/ou supprimer les taches de pigmentation. Les taches de pigmentation peuvent être des taches de vieillesse (lentigo sénile) ou solaires (apparues après une exposition prolongée au soleil) ou liées à une phototoxicité ou à des chloasmas (mélasma). Selon un second aspect, l'invention a pour objet un extrait de la plante Pancratium maritimum pour la préparation d'une composition pharmaceutique, notamment dermatologique antioxydante et/ou inhibitrice de la mélanogenèse, notamment induite par les rayons ultraviolets. En particulier, la composition pharmaceutique est destinée à la prévention et/ou au traitement de pathologies ou de troubles liés à la mélanogenèse, notamment induite par les rayons ultraviolets, et/ou à des espèces réactives de l'oxygène. On entend par espèces réactives de l'oxygène , les produits intermédiaires formés lors de la réduction de l'oxygène en eau, à savoir, le peroxyde d'hydrogène (H202), les radicaux libres superoxydes et hydroxyles. Ces espèces sont produites d'une manière accrue lorsque la régulation du métabolisme de l'oxygène est perturbée (stress oxydants). Ces espèces sont responsables, d'une manière directe ou indirecte, de nombreux dommages oxydatifs au niveau moléculaire (acides nucléiques, protéines, lipides ...) pouvant affecter considérablement les mécanismes cellulaires et ainsi favoriser le développement de nombreuses pathologies telles que l'athérosclérose, le diabète, les maladies neurodégénératives mais également les processus de vieillissement. Ainsi, la composition pharmaceutique selon l'invention peut être destinée à la prévention et/ou au traitement de pathologies qui peuvent être choisies dans le groupe comprenant les infections virales, les infections bactériennes, les infections parasitaires, les maladies du tractus respiratoire, les maladies neurodégénératives telles que la maladie d'Alzheimer et de Parkinson, les maladies auto-immunes, les maladies cardio-vasculaires telles que l'athérosclérose, les cancers, les maladies du système immunitaire, le diabète, l'insuffisance surrénalienne chronique (ou maladie d'Addison), les mélanomes, les affections inflammatoires chroniques, les tumeurs fibreuses bénignes (fibromes), les carcinomes basocellulaires, les hypermélanocytoses, les hypermélaninoses. Du fait de l'activité antioxydante et inhibitrice sur la mélanogenèse via l'inhibition de la liaison de l'endothéline à son récepteur des extraits de la plante Pancratium maritimum, les compositions selon l'invention sont particulièrement utiles pour la prévention ou le traitement de troubles liés à une exposition prolongée au soleil, provoqués notamment sous l'action des ultraviolets. Surprisingly, the inventors have established that an extract of the plant Pancratium maritimum exhibits an antioxidant and inhibitory activity of melanogenesis, via the inhibition of the binding of endothelin to its receptor. Thus according to a first aspect, the subject of the invention is the cosmetic use of an extract of the plant Pancratium maritimum as an antioxidant and / or an inhibitor of melanogenesis in a cosmetic composition. In particular, the extract of the plant Pancratium maritimum can be used as a cosmetic agent inhibitor of melanogenesis induced by ultraviolet rays, in a cosmetic composition. Pancratium maritimum is the perennial bulbous plant of the amaryllidaceae family more commonly known as sea lily or lily of the sands. The inflorescence of this plant, composed of a dozen flowers, is carried by a stem of about thirty centimeters emerging from a bulb buried in the sand. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention, because of the antioxidant properties of the extract of the plant Pancratium maritimum, are intended to provide, especially to the skin, effective protection against cellular damage caused by extrinsic toxic factors such as ultraviolet radiation , wind and intrinsic toxic factors such as aging and biochemical changes in the skin, including reactive oxygen species. In particular, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are intended to: (i) prevent and / or fight against the signs of cutaneous aging; and / or (ii) improve the texture of the skin and revive the radiance of the skin; and / or (iii) improve the uniformity and clarity of the skin and / or (iv) whiten the skin; and / or (v) depigmenting the skin and / or the hair and / or the hair; and / or (vi) prevent and / or reduce and / or eliminate pigmentation spots. Pigmentation spots can be age spots (senile lentigo) or sun spots (that appear after prolonged exposure to the sun) or linked to phototoxicity or chloasmas (melasma). According to a second aspect, the invention relates to an extract of the plant Pancratium maritimum for the preparation of a pharmaceutical composition, especially dermatological antioxidant and / or inhibitor of melanogenesis, in particular induced by ultraviolet rays. In particular, the pharmaceutical composition is intended for the prevention and / or treatment of pathologies or disorders related to melanogenesis, in particular induced by ultraviolet rays, and / or to reactive oxygen species. Reactive oxygen species are understood to mean the intermediate products formed during the reduction of oxygen to water, namely hydrogen peroxide (H 2 O 2) and superoxide and hydroxyl free radicals. These species are produced in an increased way when the regulation of oxygen metabolism is disturbed (oxidative stress). These species are responsible, directly or indirectly, for numerous oxidative damage at the molecular level (nucleic acids, proteins, lipids, etc.) that can considerably affect cellular mechanisms and thus promote the development of numerous pathologies such as atherosclerosis. , diabetes, neurodegenerative diseases but also the aging process. Thus, the pharmaceutical composition according to the invention may be intended for the prevention and / or treatment of pathologies that may be chosen from the group comprising viral infections, bacterial infections, parasitic infections, diseases of the respiratory tract, diseases neurodegenerative diseases such as Alzheimer's and Parkinson's disease, autoimmune diseases, cardiovascular diseases such as atherosclerosis, cancers, immune system diseases, diabetes, chronic adrenal insufficiency (or 'Addison'), melanomas, chronic inflammatory diseases, benign fibrous tumors (fibroids), basal cell carcinomas, hypermelanocytoses, hypermelaninoses. Due to the antioxidant and inhibitory activity on melanogenesis via the inhibition of the binding of endothelin to its receptor extracts of the plant Pancratium maritimum, the compositions according to the invention are particularly useful for the prevention or treatment of disorders related to prolonged exposure to the sun, caused in particular by the action of ultraviolet.
L'extrait de la plante Pancratium maritimum peut être obtenu par au moins une étape d'extraction choisie dans le groupe comprenant l'extraction aux solvants, l'extraction phase-solide, l'extraction au CO2 supercritique et une combinaison de celles-ci, de préférence l'extraction aux solvants et tout préférentiellement l'extraction aqueuse. Parmi les solvants utilisables dans l'étape d'extraction selon l'invention, on peut citer l'eau, le méthanol, l'acétonitrite, l'acétone, l'acétate d'éthyle, de préférence l'eau. The extract of the plant Pancratium maritimum may be obtained by at least one extraction step selected from the group consisting of solvent extraction, phase-solid extraction, supercritical CO2 extraction and a combination thereof. preferably the solvent extraction and most preferably the aqueous extraction. Among the solvents that can be used in the extraction step according to the invention, mention may be made of water, methanol, acetonitrile, acetone and ethyl acetate, preferably water.
L'extraction aqueuse présente l'avantage d'être peu coûteuse et peu polluante. À titre d'exemples de phases-solides utilisables dans l'étape d'extraction selon l'invention, on peut citer l'amberlite, la polyvinylpyrrolidone, la polyvinylpolypyrrolidone. Il est possible de procéder à plusieurs extractions successives jusqu'à épuisement de la matière à extraire par le solvant considéré. La durée d'extraction varie en fonction du solvant considéré, la température et éventuellement de la pression utilisée, pour aboutir à l'épuisement total d'extraction de la matière. En pratique, cette durée sera limitée à moins de deux heures pour une exploitation industrielle rentable. Préalablement à l'étape d'extraction, ladite plante peut être broyée, coupée ou écrasée. The aqueous extraction has the advantage of being inexpensive and low pollution. As examples of solid phases that can be used in the extraction step according to the invention, mention may be made of amberlite, polyvinylpyrrolidone and polyvinylpolypyrrolidone. It is possible to carry out several successive extractions until exhaustion of the material to be extracted by the solvent in question. The extraction time varies depending on the solvent, the temperature and possibly the pressure used, to result in the total exhaustion of extraction of the material. In practice, this duration will be limited to less than two hours for a profitable industrial exploitation. Prior to the extraction step, said plant can be milled, cut or crushed.
En particulier, l'extrait de la plante Pancratium maritimum est un extrait d'au moins une partie aérienne de ladite plante. L'extraction à partir d'au moins une partie aérienne de la plante présente l'avantage d'optimiser les propriétés antioxydantes et inhibitrices de la mélanogenèse de l'extrait, et de ne pas extraire certains alcaloïdes toxiques qui peuvent être contenus dans les bulbes. On entend par partie aérienne de ladite plante , toute partie de la plante qui n'est pas souterraine. À titre d'exemples de partie aérienne d'une plante, on peut citer les feuilles, les fruits, les fleurs, les tiges, les graines, de préférence les feuilles et les fleurs. En particulier, ledit extrait comprend de préférence de 0,1 à 50 % de préférence de 0,5 à 10 % et tout préférentiellement de 2 à 8 % de polyphenols en poids par rapport au poids total de l'extrait, exprimé en extrait sec. On entend par extrait sec au sens de la présente invention, la matière sèche qui subsiste après dessiccation d'un extrait dans une étuve à 120°C pendant 2 heures. On entend par polyphenols , tout composé phénolique hydrosoluble, de poids moléculaire compris entre 500 et 40 000 Daltons. À titre d'exemples de polyphenols, on peut citer les acides phénoliques et leurs dérivés, les flavonoïdes, les stilbènes, les lignines. Les compositions selon l'invention peuvent comprendre de 0,001 à 1 %, de préférence de 0,01 à 0, 1 % et tout préférentiellement de 0,02 à 0,05 % d'extrait, exprimé en extrait sec, en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. In particular, the extract of the plant Pancratium maritimum is an extract of at least one aerial part of said plant. The extraction from at least one aerial part of the plant has the advantage of optimizing the antioxidant and inhibitory properties of the melanogenesis of the extract, and of not extracting certain toxic alkaloids that may be contained in the bulbs. . The aerial part of said plant is any part of the plant that is not underground. Examples of aerial part of a plant include leaves, fruits, flowers, stems, seeds, preferably leaves and flowers. In particular, said extract preferably comprises from 0.1 to 50%, preferably from 0.5 to 10% and most preferably from 2 to 8% of polyphenols by weight relative to the total weight of the extract, expressed as dry extract. . For the purposes of the present invention, dry extract is understood to mean the dry matter which remains after desiccation of an extract in an oven at 120 ° C. for 2 hours. The term "polyphenols" means any water-soluble phenolic compound with a molecular weight of between 500 and 40,000 Daltons. As examples of polyphenols, mention may be made of phenolic acids and their derivatives, flavonoids, stilbenes and lignins. The compositions according to the invention may comprise from 0.001 to 1%, preferably from 0.01 to 0.1% and most preferably from 0.02 to 0.05% of extract, expressed as dry extract, by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition.
Les compositions selon l'invention peuvent comprendre en outre au moins un autre agent antioxydant et/ou au moins un autre inhibiteur de la mélanogenèse, comme produit de combinaison, pour une utilisation simultanée , séparée et/ou étalée dans le temps. Ledit agent antioxydant peut être choisi dans le groupe comprenant les composés ayant une activité antioxydante directe et les composés ayant une activité antioxydante indirecte tels que les cofacteurs d'enzymes neutralisants les espèces réactives de l'oxygène. Les agents antioxydants directs comprennent la vitamine A, la vitamine C, la vitamine E et les dérivés desdites vitamines, les flavonoïdes notamment les flavonoïdes d'origine végétale, le glutathion, le resveratrol, la quercetine, l'acide ellagique, le beta-carotène, les tocopherols et leurs dérivés, des enzymes comme la catalase, la superoxyde dismutase et certaines peroxydases, des extraits de fruits (myrtilles, mûres, pruneaux, fraises, kiwi,...) et de légumes (tomate, cresson, ail,...) . The compositions according to the invention may furthermore comprise at least one other antioxidant agent and / or at least one other melanogenesis inhibitor, as combination product, for simultaneous, separate and / or spreading use over time. The antioxidant may be selected from the group consisting of compounds having direct antioxidant activity and compounds having indirect antioxidant activity such as enzyme cofactors that neutralize reactive oxygen species. The direct antioxidant agents include vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin E and derivatives of said vitamins, flavonoids including flavonoids of plant origin, glutathione, resveratrol, quercetin, ellagic acid, beta-carotene , tocopherols and their derivatives, enzymes such as catalase, superoxide dismutase and certain peroxidases, fruit extracts (blueberries, blackberries, prunes, strawberries, kiwi, ...) and vegetables (tomato, watercress, garlic ,. ..).
Les agents antioxydants indirects comprennent des minéraux comme le magnésium et le fer, et des oligoéléments comme le sélénium. Ledit inhibiteur de la mélanogenèse peut être un inhibiteur de la tyrosinase de type suppressif ou non suppressif. Les inhibiteurs de la tyrosinase de type suppressif comprennent . - les inhibiteurs de synthèse ou exogènes, tels que l'acide kojique et l'acide ascorbique ; - les inhibiteurs dits naturels ou endogènes, provenant du métabolisme cellulaire lui-même et ayant une action de rétrocontrôle sur la pigmentation, comme les facteurs indoliques bloquant la mélanogenèse. Les inhibiteurs de la tyrosinase de type non suppressif se divisent eux-mêmes en trois catégories : - les inhibiteurs ribosomiaux, tels que les extraits placentaires ou la bioméine ; - les inhibiteurs du transfert de la tyrosinase sur les prémélanosomes par interruption de la glycosylation tels que la tunicamycine et glucosamine ; - les inhibiteurs cytotoxiques, dont l'hydroquinone et ses dérivés et l'acide azélaïque. En particulier, ledit inhibiteur de la mélanogenèse peut être choisi dans le groupe comprenant l'acide rétinoïque, l'acide azélaïque, l'acide kojique, le N-acétyl-4S- cystéaminyl phénol (N acétyl 4S-CAP), la glabridine, le trioxopimélate de diéthyle, l'acide thioctique, la vitamine C, la vitamine E, les alpha-hydroxyacides, un extrait de Morus alba, un extrait de Théa sinensis, un extrait de Chamomilla recutica et un extrait de Ascophylum nodosum. Indirect antioxidants include minerals such as magnesium and iron, and trace elements such as selenium. Said melanogenesis inhibitor may be a tyrosinase inhibitor of the suppressive or non-suppressive type. Suppository tyrosinase inhibitors include. synthetic or exogenous inhibitors, such as kojic acid and ascorbic acid; the so-called natural or endogenous inhibitors, originating from the cellular metabolism itself and having a feedback action on pigmentation, such as the indolic factors blocking melanogenesis. Non-suppressive tyrosinase inhibitors divide themselves into three categories: - ribosomal inhibitors, such as placental extracts or bioméine; inhibitors of tyrosinase transfer on premelanosomes by interruption of glycosylation such as tunicamycin and glucosamine; cytotoxic inhibitors, including hydroquinone and its derivatives and azelaic acid. In particular, said inhibitor of melanogenesis may be chosen from the group comprising retinoic acid, azelaic acid, kojic acid, N-acetyl-4S-cysteaminyl phenol (N acetyl 4S-CAP), glabridin, diethyl trioxopimelate, thioctic acid, vitamin C, vitamin E, alpha-hydroxy acids, an extract of Morus alba, an extract of Théa sinensis, an extract of Chamomilla recutica and an extract of Ascophylum nodosum.
Le thé vert (Théa sinensis) est connu pour ses propriétés d'inhibition du transport des mélanocytes matures vers les kératinocytes. Il s'agit également d'un inhibiteur de la tyrosinase. La matricia (Chamomilla recutica) tout comme l'Ascophylum nodosum sont des antagonistes de l'endothéline qui inhibe la mélanogenèse induite par les rayons ultraviolets. Les compositions selon l'invention peuvent comprendre l'extrait selon l'invention et l'agent antioxydant et/ou l'inhibiteur de la mélanogenèse dans un rapport molaire allant de 10/1 à 1/10. Les compositions selon l'invention, notamment les compositions comprenant un extrait aqueux d'au moins une partie aérienne de la plante Pancratium maritimum, peuvent comprendre en outre de la glycérine. La présence de la glycérine dans les compositions selon l'invention présente l'avantage de conserver les compositions sans ajout de conservateurs. La présence de la glycérine permettrait notamment de stabiliser les polyphenols présents dans les compositions selon l'invention. Les compositions selon l'invention peuvent comprendre en outre au moins un filtre solaire organique ou minéral. À titre d'exemples de filtre solaire organique, on peut citer l'éthylhexyl methoxycinnamate, l'octocrylène, les salicylates, la benzophenone, le butyl methoxybenzoylmethane. À titre d'exemples de filtre solaire minéral, on peut citer l'oxyde de zinc et l'oxyde de titane. Les compositions selon l'invention peuvent se présenter sous différentes formes, notamment sous une forme choisie dans le groupe comprenant les solutions, les émulsions, les crèmes, les pommades, les laits, les lotions et les gels. Ces différentes formes peuvent être obtenues par des techniques bien connues de l'Homme du Métier. Les compositions pharmaceutiques selon l'invention peuvent être administrées par différentes voies compatibles avec le traitement recherché, de préférence de manière topique. Selon un troisième aspect, l'invention a pour objet un extrait aqueux d'au moins une partie aérienne de la plante Pancratium maritimum, comprenant de 0,1 à 50 %, de préférence de 0,5 à 10 % et tout préférentiellement de 2 à 8 % de polyphenols en poids par rapport au poids total de l'extrait, exprimé en extrait sec. Green tea (Théa sinensis) is known to inhibit the transport of mature melanocytes to keratinocytes. It is also an inhibitor of tyrosinase. Matricia (Chamomilla recutica) and Ascophylum nodosum are endothelin antagonists that inhibit ultraviolet-induced melanogenesis. The compositions according to the invention may comprise the extract according to the invention and the antioxidant agent and / or the melanogenesis inhibitor in a molar ratio ranging from 10/1 to 1/10. The compositions according to the invention, in particular the compositions comprising an aqueous extract of at least one aerial part of the plant Pancratium maritimum, may further comprise glycerine. The presence of glycerine in the compositions according to the invention has the advantage of preserving the compositions without the addition of preservatives. The presence of glycerin would in particular stabilize the polyphenols present in the compositions according to the invention. The compositions according to the invention may furthermore comprise at least one organic or inorganic sunscreen. As examples of organic sunscreen, there may be mentioned ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, salicylates, benzophenone, butyl methoxybenzoylmethane. As examples of inorganic sunscreen, mention may be made of zinc oxide and titanium oxide. The compositions according to the invention may be in various forms, in particular in a form chosen from the group comprising solutions, emulsions, creams, ointments, milks, lotions and gels. These different forms can be obtained by techniques well known to those skilled in the art. The pharmaceutical compositions according to the invention may be administered by different routes compatible with the desired treatment, preferably topically. According to a third aspect, the subject of the invention is an aqueous extract of at least one aerial part of the plant Pancratium maritimum, comprising from 0.1 to 50%, preferably from 0.5 to 10% and most preferably from 2 to at 8% polyphenols by weight relative to the total weight of the extract, expressed as dry extract.
Cet extrait aqueux peut être obtenu par des techniques bien connues de l'Homme du Métier. En particulier, préalablement à l'étape d'extraction aqueuse, ladite au moins une partie aérienne de la plante est lyophilisée ou séchée. En particulier l'étape d'extraction aqueuse, peut se dérouler pendant 1 à 2 heures sous agitation avec 3 à 7 kilos de plantes sèches ou lyophilisées pour 50 à 150 litres, notamment 100 litres d'eau. This aqueous extract can be obtained by techniques well known to those skilled in the art. In particular, prior to the aqueous extraction step, said at least one aerial part of the plant is lyophilized or dried. In particular the aqueous extraction step can be carried out for 1 to 2 hours with agitation with 3 to 7 kilos of dry or freeze-dried plants for 50 to 150 liters, in particular 100 liters of water.
Il est possible de procéder à plusieurs extractions successives jusqu'à épuisement de la matière à extraire par l'eau. Après l'étape d'extraction, l'extrait peut être clarifié par filtration frontale de 10 à 20 m et/ou filtré sur une membrane tangentielle avec des filtres ayant une porosité comprise entre 0,1 et 0,5 m, de préférence entre 0,2 et 0,4 m et tout préférentiellement 0,2 et 0,3 m. En outre l'extrait peut être stérilisé par filtration. Selon un quatrième aspect, l'invention a pour objet une composition cosmétique ou pharmaceutique, notamment dermatologique, comprenant à titre de principe actif un extrait selon l'invention et un support cosmétologiquement ou pharmaceutiquement acceptable. On entend par support cosmétologiquement acceptable au sens de la présente invention, toute matière qui est appropriée à une utilisation dans une composition cosmétique. À titre d'exemples de support cosmétologiquement acceptable, on peut citer la glycérine, la gomme xanthane, les polymères issus d'algues (agar, carraghénane, alginate), les silicones, le caprylic / capric triglyceride et les huiles de plantes telle que des plantes du genre Macadamia. Les compositions selon l'invention peuvent comprendre une teneur en support cosmétologiquement ou pharmaceutiquement acceptable allant de 5 à 99 %, notamment de 10 à 90 %, et tout particulièrement de 20 à 75 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. On entend par support pharmaceutiquement acceptable au sens de la présente invention, toute matière qui est appropriée à une utilisation dans une composition pharmaceutique. À titre d'exemples de support pharmaceutiquement acceptable, on peut citer le lactose, l'amidon éventuellement modifié, la cellulose, l'hydroxypropyl cellulose, l'hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, le sorbitol, le xylitol, le dextrose, le sulfate de calcium, le phosphate de calcium, le lactate de calcium, les dextrases, l'inositol, le carbonate de calcium, la glycine, la bentonite, la polyvinylpyrrolidone et leurs mélanges. It is possible to carry out several successive extractions until exhaustion of the material to be extracted by the water. After the extraction step, the extract can be clarified by frontal filtration of 10 to 20 m and / or filtered on a tangential membrane with filters having a porosity of between 0.1 and 0.5 m, preferably between 0.2 and 0.4 m and most preferably 0.2 and 0.3 m. In addition, the extract can be sterilized by filtration. According to a fourth aspect, the subject of the invention is a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, especially a dermatological composition, comprising as active ingredient an extract according to the invention and a cosmetologically or pharmaceutically acceptable carrier. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cosmetologically acceptable carrier" means any material that is suitable for use in a cosmetic composition. Examples of a cosmetologically acceptable carrier are glycerin, xanthan gum, polymers derived from algae (agar, carrageenan, alginate), silicones, caprylic / capric triglyceride and plant oils such as plants of the genus Macadamia. The compositions according to the invention may comprise a content of cosmetologically or pharmaceutically acceptable support ranging from 5 to 99%, especially from 10 to 90%, and most particularly from 20 to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pharmaceutically acceptable carrier" means any material that is suitable for use in a pharmaceutical composition. As examples of a pharmaceutically acceptable carrier, mention may be made of lactose, optionally modified starch, cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, sorbitol, xylitol, dextrose, calcium sulphate, calcium phosphate, calcium lactate, dextrases, inositol, calcium carbonate, glycine, bentonite, polyvinylpyrrolidone and mixtures thereof.
De façon connue, les compositions cosmétiques et pharmaceutiques, notamment dermatologiques selon l'invention peuvent contenir également les adjuvants habituels dans les domaines cométiques et pharmaceutiques, tels que des gélifiants hydrophiles ou lipophiles, des actifs hydrophiles ou lipophiles, des conservateurs, des solvants, des parfums, des fibres, des charges, des pigments, des absorbeurs d'odeur et des matières colorantes. Les quantités de ces différents adjuvants sont celles classiquement utilisées dans les domaines considérés, et par exemple de 0,01 à 50 % du poids total de la composition. Selon un cinquième aspect, l'invention a pour objet un procédé de traitement cosmétique pour (i) prévenir et/ou lutter contre les signes du vieillissement cutané ; et/ou (ii) améliorer la texture de la peau et raviver l'éclat de la peau ; et/ou (iii) améliorer l'uniformité et la clarté de la peau ; et/ou (iv) blanchir la peau ; et/ou (v) dépigmenter la peau et/ou les poils et/ou les cheveux ; et/ou (vi) prévenir et/ou réduire et/ou supprimer les taches de pigmentation ; comprenant l'application sur les zones concernées, de manière topique, d'un extrait de la plante Pancratium maritimum, en particulier d'un extrait selon l'invention ou 15 d'une composition cosmétique selon l'invention. Selon un cinquième aspect, l'invention a pour objet un agent antioxydant et/ou inhibiteur de la mélanogenèse comprenant un extrait de la plante Pancratium maritimum, en particulier un extrait selon l'invention. 20 D'autres avantages et caractéristiques de l'invention apparaîtront au regard des exemples qui suivent. Ces exemples sont donnés à titre illustratif et non limitatif. 10 Exemples 2. Exemple 1 : Procédé de préparation d'un extrait aqueux de Pancratium maritimum Les tiges, fleurs et/ou feuilles de Pancratium maritimum après avoir été récoltées, ont été séchées. 3 à 7 kilos de plantes sèches ont été mélangés à 100 litres d'eau et extraits pendant 1h30 sous agitation. L'extrait a ensuite été clarifié par filtration frontale de 10 à 20 gm puis microfiltré sur une membrane de filtration tangentielle avec des filtres de porosité de 0, 22 m. Les extraits ainsi obtenus présentent une matière sèche comprise entre 0,5 et 2 % en poids par rapport au poids 15 total de l'extrait. Ces extraits comprennent de 2 à 8 % de polyphenols en poids par rapport au poids total de l'extrait, exprimé en extrait sec. II. Exemple 2 : Mis en évidence de l'activité inhibitrice 20 sur la mélanogenèse d'extraits de Pancratium maritimum L'activité sur la mélanogénèse d'extraits de Pancratium maritimum a été évaluée par leur capacité à inhiber la fixation de l'endothéline à son récepteur. II.1 Principe de l'essai Le récepteur à l'endothéline utilisé dans cet essai était un récepteur recombinant d'origine humaine exprimé sur les cellules CHO. Dans cet essai, le composé de référence était 30 l'endothéline-3. Le ligand était l'endotheline 1 14 25 radiomarquée ([125I] endothéline-1), utilisée à 0,03 nM. La fixation non spécifique était mesurée par ajout d'endothéline-1 non radiomarquée (0,1pM). Les cellules exprimant le récepteur à l'endotheline ont été incubées avec un extrait de Pancratium maritimum pendant 90 minutes à 37°C. Les extraits de Pancratium maritimum utilisés dans l'essai ont été obtenus selon le procédé décrit dans l'exemple 1, ci-dessus, à partir de différentes parties de la plante sauvage (pour les lots I06-273, I06-274 et 106- 290) ou de culture (pour les lots I06-271, I06-272 et 106-288) : à partir de feuilles seulement (pour les lots 106-271, I06-273, I06-274 et I06-288) ou à partir de feuilles et de fleurs (pour les lots I06-272 et I06-290). La liaison spécifique du ligand aux récepteurs est définie comme la différence entre la liaison totale et la liaison non spécifique déterminée par la présence d'un excès d'un ligand non marqué. II.2. Résultats de l'essai Les résultats de l'essai sont présentés dans le tableau 1, ci-dessous. Les résultats sont exprimés en pourcentage d'inhibition de la liaison : Plante Sauvage Plante de Culture extrait de Pancratium maritimum 106- 106- 106-106- 106- 106- en pourcentage 273 290 274 288 271 272 2,5% 33 1 4 25 27 51 5% 44 13 14 41 47 67 10% 45 52 32 51 66 83 Tableau 1 : Effet de l'extrait de Pancratium maritimum 25 sur la liaison au récepteur à l'endothéline. In a known manner, the cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions, especially dermatological compositions according to the invention, may also contain the usual adjuvants in the cometic and pharmaceutical fields, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, solvents, perfumes, fibers, fillers, pigments, odor absorbers and dyestuffs. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 50% of the total weight of the composition. According to a fifth aspect, the subject of the invention is a cosmetic treatment method for (i) preventing and / or combating the signs of cutaneous aging; and / or (ii) improve the texture of the skin and revive the radiance of the skin; and / or (iii) improve the uniformity and clarity of the skin; and / or (iv) whiten the skin; and / or (v) depigmenting the skin and / or the hair and / or the hair; and / or (vi) prevent and / or reduce and / or eliminate pigmentation spots; comprising topically applying to the areas concerned an extract of the plant Pancratium maritimum, in particular an extract according to the invention or a cosmetic composition according to the invention. According to a fifth aspect, the subject of the invention is an antioxidant and / or inhibitor of melanogenesis comprising an extract of the plant Pancratium maritimum, in particular an extract according to the invention. Other advantages and features of the invention will become apparent from the following examples. These examples are given for illustrative and not limiting. EXAMPLES 2. Example 1: Process for preparing an aqueous extract of Pancratium maritimum The stems, flowers and / or leaves of Pancratium maritimum after being harvested were dried. 3 to 7 kilos of dry plants were mixed with 100 liters of water and extracted for 1h30 with stirring. The extract was then clarified by frontal filtration of 10 to 20 gm and then microfiltered on a tangential filtration membrane with filters of porosity of 0.22 m. The extracts thus obtained have a solids content of between 0.5 and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the extract. These extracts comprise from 2 to 8% of polyphenols by weight relative to the total weight of the extract, expressed as dry extract. II. Example 2: Demonstration of the Melanogenesis Inhibitory Activity of Pancratium maritimum Extracts The activity on melanogenesis of extracts of Pancratium maritimum was evaluated by their ability to inhibit the binding of endothelin to its receptor . II.1 Principle of the assay The endothelin receptor used in this assay was a human recombinant receptor expressed on CHO cells. In this test, the reference compound was endothelin-3. The ligand was radiolabeled endothelin 1 ([125I] endothelin-1), used at 0.03 nM. Nonspecific binding was measured by addition of non-radiolabelled endothelin-1 (0.1 μM). Cells expressing the endothelin receptor were incubated with Pancratium maritimum extract for 90 minutes at 37 ° C. The extracts of Pancratium maritimum used in the test were obtained according to the method described in Example 1, above, from different parts of the wild plant (for lots I06-273, I06-274 and 106- 290) or from cultivation (for lots I06-271, I06-272 and 106-288): from leaves only (for lots 106-271, I06-273, I06-274 and I06-288) or from leaves and flowers (for lots I06-272 and I06-290). Specific binding of the ligand to receptors is defined as the difference between total binding and nonspecific binding determined by the presence of an excess of unlabeled ligand. II.2. Results of the test The results of the test are shown in Table 1, below. The results are expressed as percentage inhibition of binding: Wild Plant Cultivation plant extract of Pancratium maritimum 106- 106- 106-106- 106- 106- in percentage 273 290 274 288 271 272 2.5% 33 1 4 25 27 51 5% 44 13 14 41 47 67 10% 45 52 32 51 66 83 Table 1: Effect of Pancratium maritimum 25 extract on endothelin receptor binding.
En l'absence d'extrait, l'endothéline est liée à son récepteur (=100% de liaison). En présence d'extrait de Pancratium maritimum à 5%, on observe une inhibition de la liaison de l'endothéline à son récepteur variant de 13 à 67 % selon les parties de la plante utilisée, et selon qu'il s'agit d'une plante sauvage ou de culture. Cet essai montre bien que les extraits de Pancratium maritimum inhibent la liaison de l'endothéline à son récepteur. In the absence of an extract, endothelin is bound to its receptor (= 100% binding). In the presence of Pancratium maritimum extract at 5%, an inhibition of the binding of endothelin to its receptor varying from 13 to 67% depending on the parts of the plant used, and depending on whether a wild or cultivated plant. This test shows that extracts of Pancratium maritimum inhibit the binding of endothelin to its receptor.
De ce fait, les extraits de l'invention obtenus à partir de la plante Pancratium maritimum constituent des agents utiles pour inhiber la mélanogenèse dans la préparation de compositions cosmétiques et pharmaceutiques. As a result, the extracts of the invention obtained from the plant Pancratium maritimum are useful agents for inhibiting melanogenesis in the preparation of cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions.
III. Exemple 3 : Mis en évidence de l'activité antioxydante d'extrait de Pancratium maritimum L'activité anti-oxydante d'extraits de Pancratium maritimum (obtenus à partir de feuilles et de fleurs de plante de culture a été évalué par 2 méthodes : le test ORAC (Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity) et le test DPPH. III.1 Principe de l'essai ORAC Le principe du test ORAC est la dégradation de la fluorescéine (FL: "3',6'-dihydroxyspiro[isobenzofuran- 1[3H],9'[9H]-3-one]) induite par la décomposition thermique (37°C) de l'AAPH (2,2'-azobis (2 amidinopropane) dihydrochloride) en deux radicaux libres. La présence d'antioxydants dans l'échantillon en retarde la dégradation. La réaction est standardisée par rapport à des concentrations connues de TROLOX connu pour son activité antioxydante. Les résultats sont exprimés par rapport à la protection exercée par un antioxydant de référence, le Trolox qui est l'équivalent hydrosoluble de la vitamine E et ramenés par gramme du produit testé. III.2 Principe de l'essai DPPH Le principe du test DPPH est basé sur le fait que le radical DPPH•+ (2,2-diphenyl-1-picryl-hydrazyl) est stable à température ordinaire et présente une couleur bleue bien caractéristique. Les antioxydants présents dans l'échantillon le réduisent, ce qui entraîne une décoloration facilement mesurable par spectrophotométrie à 517 nm. La méthode est généralement standardisée par rapport au TROLOX. III. EXAMPLE 3 Demonstration of the Antioxidant Activity of Pancratium Maritimum Extract The antioxidant activity of extracts of Pancratium maritimum (obtained from leaves and flowers of cultured plants was evaluated by two methods: ORAC test (Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity) and the DPPH test III.1 Principle of the ORAC test The principle of the ORAC test is the degradation of fluorescein (FL: "3 ', 6'-dihydroxyspiro [isobenzofuran 1 [3H ], 9 '[9H] -3-one]) induced by the thermal decomposition (37 ° C) of AAPH (2,2'-azobis (2 amidinopropane) dihydrochloride) into two free radicals. The reaction is standardized against known concentrations of TROLOX known for its antioxidant activity.The results are expressed relative to the protection exerted by a reference antioxidant, Trolox which is the equivalent water soluble vitamin E and reduced per gram of p III.2 Principle of the DPPH test The principle of the DPPH test is based on the fact that the radical DPPH • + (2,2-diphenyl-1-picryl-hydrazyl) is stable at ordinary temperature and has a color blue characteristic. Antioxidants in the sample reduce it, resulting in discoloration easily measurable by spectrophotometry at 517 nm. The method is generally standardized with respect to TROLOX.
Cette analyse simple dans son application est en tout point complémentaire au test ORAC. Cette méthode a été utilisée avec succès pour évaluer l'activité antioxydante contenue dans les feuilles, les bourgeons et les fruits de cassis (J Food Agr Chem 54: 6231-6236, 2006). This simple analysis in its application is completely complementary to the ORAC test. This method has been used successfully to evaluate the antioxidant activity contained in leaves, buds and blackcurrant fruit (J Food Agr Chem 54: 6231-6236, 2006).
III.3 Résultats des essais Les résultats des essais sont présentés dans les tableaux 2 et 3, ci-dessous : Extrait de Pancratium ORAC en mg ET/L ORAC en pM ET maritimum à 1% Moyenne Ecart- Moyenne Ecart- type type 106-288 1476,2 70 5895.5 279.5 107-148 2016,9 124,3 8054,9 496,4 107-149 1985,1 60,9 7928,2 243,3 Tableau 2 : activité anti-oxydante d'extraits de Pancratium maritimum mesurée selon le test ORAC. Les résultats sont exprimés soit en mg ET/L d'extrait soit en pM d'équivalents trolox (ET). III.3 Test results The results of the tests are presented in Tables 2 and 3, below: Pancratium ORAC extract in mg / L ORAC in μM AND 1% mediterranean average Deviation-average Standard deviation type 106- 288 1476.2 70 5895.5 279.5 107-148 2016.9 124.3 8054.9 496.4 107-149 1985.1 60.9 7928.2 243.3 Table 2: Antioxidant activity of extracts of Pancratium maritimum measured according to the ORAC test. The results are expressed either in mg ET / L of extract or in pM trolox equivalents (ET).
Les extraits de Pancratium maritimum ont une activité 5 ORAC variant de 5800 à 8000 micromoles équivalent TROLOX (}mol ET) par litre d'extrait, soit de 500 à 800 }moles ET /gramme de matière sèche extraite. Extrait de Pancratium DPPH en mg ET/L DPPH en pM ET maritimum à 1% Moyenne Ecart-Moyenne Ecart type -type 106-288 69, 9 1, 0 279, 3 4, 1 107-148 57, 8 1,0 231,0 4,1 107-149 125,3 3,9 500,4 15,7 10 Tableau 3 : activité anti-oxydante d'extraits de Pancratium maritimum mesurée selon le test DPPH. Les résultats sont exprimés soit en mg ET/L d'extrait soit en pM d'équivalents trolox (ET). The extracts of Pancratium maritimum have an ORAC activity ranging from 5800 to 8000 micromoles equivalent TROLOX (} mol ET) per liter of extract, ie from 500 to 800 moles ET / g of dry matter extracted. Pancratium DPPH extract in mg ET / L DPPH in μM and maritimum at 1% Mean Gap-Average Standard deviation -type 106-288 69, 9 1, 0 279, 3 4, 1 107-148 57, 8 1.0 231 TABLE 4 Antioxidant activity of extracts of Pancratium maritimum measured according to the DPPH test. The results are expressed either in mg ET / L of extract or in pM trolox equivalents (ET).
15 Les extraits de Pancratium maritimum ont une activité DPPH variant de 230 à 500 micromoles équivalent trolox (}mol ET) par litre d'extrait, soit de 23 à 50 }moles ET /gramme de matière sèche extraite. 20 Ces expériences démontrent que les extraits de l'invention obtenus à partir de la plante Pancratium maritimum sont des agents antioxydants utiles pour la préparation de compositions cosmétiques et pharmaceutiques. Extracts of Pancratium maritimum have a DPPH activity varying from 230 to 500 micromoles trolox equivalent (mol mole%) per liter of extract, ie from 23 to 50 moles ET / g of dry matter extracted. These experiments demonstrate that the extracts of the invention obtained from the plant Pancratium maritimum are antioxidants useful for the preparation of cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions.
IV Exemple 4 : Crème de soin Cette crème présente la composition suivante : PHASE MATIÈRE PREMIÈRE % A huile vaseline 8,00 A acide stéarique / acide palmitique 1,00 A alcool cétylique 1,50 A dimethicone 1,50 B eau déminéralisée 80,00 B propylène glycol 1,00 B carbomer 0,60 B conservateur 0,30 c triéthanolamine 1,10 extrait de pancratium maritimum 5,00 Cette crème est obtenue selon le protocole suivant : Les phases A et B sont chauffées indépendamment l'une de l'autre à 75°C, puis la phase B est introduite dans la phase A sous homogénéisation. La phase C, constituée de triéthanolamine est ensuite ajoutée au mélange obtenu précédemment. L'ensemble est ensuite refroidi jusqu'à 35°C sous agitation modérée et l'extrait de Pancratium maritimum est alors ajouté. De préférence l'extrait de Pancratium maritimum est un extrait aqueux obtenu à partir des fleurs et des feuilles de la plante, en particulier selon le procédé de l'exemple 1. IV EXAMPLE 4 Care Cream This cream has the following composition: PHASE RAW MATERIAL% A Petrolatum Oil 8.00 A Stearic Acid / Palmitic Acid 1.00 A Cetyl Alcohol 1.50 A Dimethicone 1.50 B Demineralized Water 80.00 B propylene glycol 1.00 B carbomer 0.60 B preservative 0.30 c triethanolamine 1.10 extract pancrantium maritimum 5.00 This cream is obtained according to the following protocol: The phases A and B are heated independently one of the at 75 ° C, then phase B is introduced into phase A under homogenization. Phase C, consisting of triethanolamine is then added to the mixture obtained above. The whole is then cooled to 35 ° C. with moderate stirring and the extract of Pancratium maritimum is then added. Preferably, the extract of Pancratium maritimum is an aqueous extract obtained from the flowers and leaves of the plant, in particular according to the method of Example 1.
Cette crème peut être utilisée localement par application topique, deux fois par jour, en massant jusqu'à pénétration complète. Après traitement, la peau retrouve sa clarté et son éclat. Cette crème contribue à prévenir et/ou réduire les taches de pigmentation solaires apparues après une exposition prolongée au soleil et à prévenir et/ou lutter contre les signes du vieillissement cutané. This cream can be used locally by topical application, twice a day, massaging until complete penetration. After treatment, the skin regains its clarity and radiance. This cream helps prevent and / or reduce sun pigmentation spots that appear after prolonged exposure to the sun and to prevent and / or fight against the signs of skin aging.
Claims (23)
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| CN104490704A (en) * | 2014-12-26 | 2015-04-08 | 徐华炜 | Plant essential oil skin care product |
| CN104606112A (en) * | 2014-12-26 | 2015-05-13 | 徐华炜 | Plant essential oil facial mask |
| US9283170B2 (en) | 2010-05-18 | 2016-03-15 | Conopco, Inc. | Personal care composition |
| WO2016164735A1 (en) * | 2015-04-08 | 2016-10-13 | Cgtn C.V. | Skin care composition having skin damage prevention and damage repairing properties |
| FR3070864A1 (en) * | 2017-09-12 | 2019-03-15 | Societe De Courtage Et De Diffusion - Codif International | PHARMACEUTICAL AND / OR COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN AQUEOUS EXTRACT OF PANCRATIUM MARITINUM AND USES THEREOF |
| WO2024003594A1 (en) * | 2022-06-28 | 2024-01-04 | Galderma Holding SA | Personal care compositions comprising pancratium maritimum |
| WO2024013167A1 (en) | 2022-07-13 | 2024-01-18 | Laboratoire Vabel | Cosmetic compositions and the use thereof for lightening skin and minimising and/or reducing pigmentation spots |
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Cited By (10)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US9283170B2 (en) | 2010-05-18 | 2016-03-15 | Conopco, Inc. | Personal care composition |
| CN104490704A (en) * | 2014-12-26 | 2015-04-08 | 徐华炜 | Plant essential oil skin care product |
| CN104606112A (en) * | 2014-12-26 | 2015-05-13 | 徐华炜 | Plant essential oil facial mask |
| CN104606112B (en) * | 2014-12-26 | 2019-02-22 | 徐华炜 | A kind of plants essential oil facial mask |
| CN104490704B (en) * | 2014-12-26 | 2019-02-22 | 徐华炜 | A kind of plants essential oil skin care item |
| WO2016164735A1 (en) * | 2015-04-08 | 2016-10-13 | Cgtn C.V. | Skin care composition having skin damage prevention and damage repairing properties |
| FR3070864A1 (en) * | 2017-09-12 | 2019-03-15 | Societe De Courtage Et De Diffusion - Codif International | PHARMACEUTICAL AND / OR COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN AQUEOUS EXTRACT OF PANCRATIUM MARITINUM AND USES THEREOF |
| WO2024003594A1 (en) * | 2022-06-28 | 2024-01-04 | Galderma Holding SA | Personal care compositions comprising pancratium maritimum |
| WO2024013167A1 (en) | 2022-07-13 | 2024-01-18 | Laboratoire Vabel | Cosmetic compositions and the use thereof for lightening skin and minimising and/or reducing pigmentation spots |
| FR3137837A1 (en) * | 2022-07-13 | 2024-01-19 | Laboratoire Vabel | Cosmetic compositions and their use for lightening the skin and preventing and/or reducing pigmentation spots |
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| FR2926220B1 (en) | 2010-07-30 |
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