FR2996763A1 - Emulsion type composition used e.g. as mascara to coat eyelashes, comprises aqueous phase, aqueous dispersion of hard wax particles, and emulsifying system comprising nonionic surfactant including e.g. fatty glycerol and anionic surfactant - Google Patents

Abstract

Emulsion type cosmetic composition comprises: an aqueous phase; particles comprising a hard wax, preferably an aqueous dispersion of particles of hard wax having a melting temperature of >= 60[deg] C; and an emulsifying system that is adapted to disperse the hard wax and comprises a nonionic surfactant having a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance, at 25[deg] C, of >= 8, preferably >= 10 and comprising 12-20C fatty acid ester and glycerol and an anionic surfactant consisting of acyl glutamic acid having 12-22C acyl chain and its salt. The amount of hard wax is >= 10 wt.%. An independent claim is included for preparing the emulsion type cosmetic composition comprising heating the hard wax and optionally additional wax in the aqueous phase at a temperature, which is greater than the melting temperature of the hard wax, adding the emulsifying system, >= 25 wt.% of water, colorant and optionally other thickening nature compound (such as gums, fillers, pasty fatty substances and water-soluble film-forming polymers) to the aqueous phase, where the total content of hard waxes and optionally additional waxes and the total content of emulsifying system are = 1.75, preferably 1/3 to 1.25 such that the weight ratio of the waxes is more than the additional wax/emulsifying system, stirring the mixture at a temperature, which is greater than the melting temperature of the hard wax, disposing the aqueous phase, to a second phase, comprising an aqueous dispersion of particles of film forming polymer, controlling the temperature to 0-45[deg] C, preferably 0-20[deg] C for the preparation of first phase and the second phase that is different from the first phase, and contacting the first and second phases at a temperature of 0-45[deg] C, preferably 0-20[deg] C, stirring the mixture until the temperature of mixture is regulated to 0-45[deg] C preferably 0-20[deg] C and then adding preservatives.

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for coating keratinous fibers, and in particular eyelashes or eyebrows. In particular, said cosmetic composition is a makeup composition and possibly an eyelash care product. The present invention also relates to a process for coating keratinous fibers, in particular a process for makeup and possibly care of the eyelashes.

The present invention also relates to a method of manufacturing a cosmetic composition for coating keratinous fibers and a composition obtained by such a manufacturing method. The present invention also relates to particular uses.

The composition used may in particular be in the form of a product for eyelashes such as a mascara, or a product for the eyebrows. More preferably, the invention relates to a mascara. By "mascara" is meant a composition intended to be applied to the eyelashes: it may be an eyelash makeup composition, an eyelash makeup base (also called a base coat), a composition to be applied to an eyelash. mascara, also called top-coat, or else a composition for cosmetic treatment of eyelashes. Mascara is especially intended for human eyelashes, but also false eyelashes. Mascaras are especially prepared according to two types of formulation: aqueous mascaras called cream mascaras, in the form of dispersion of waxes in water; anhydrous or low-water mascaras, so-called mascaras water-proofs, in the form of dispersions of waxes in organic solvents. Generally, anhydrous mascaras have a good resistance to water but the volume level is generally low and makeup removal difficult, while aqueous mascaras have a lower water resistance but a high volume level and a makeup removal more easy. The present application relates more specifically to so-called aqueous mascaras. The compositions for coating keratinous fibers with such a type of mascara generally consist of at least one fatty phase generally formed of one or more waxes dispersed in an aqueous liquid phase by means of an emulsifying or conveyed system. (s) in an organic solvent. The application of mascara aims in particular to increase the volume of the eyelashes and consequently increase the intensity of the gaze. For this, there are many thickening or volumizing mascaras whose principle is to deposit the maximum material on the eyelashes so as to obtain this volumizing effect (or charging). It is in particular through the quantity of particles (in particular waxes) that the application specificities desired for the compositions can be adjusted, for example their fluidity or consistency, as well as their thickening power (also called charging power or make-up). However, a problem encountered is that the conventional formulation routes of aqueous mascaras do not allow to exceed a high solids content, for example greater than or equal to 42%, under penalty of too thick texture. An object of the present application is more particularly to provide a mascara emulsion form preferably high solids, for example greater than or equal to 42%. More particularly, an object of the present invention is to stabilize a direct emulsion rich in fatty substances, especially waxes, without phase shift in time and / or UV and / or light. An object of the present application is more particularly to provide a stable mascara having a sufficiently thick texture to obtain a loading deposit of satisfactory consistency, allowing easy application to the eyelashes and a regular deposit, ie smooth and homogeneous , even after two months stored at 4 ° C. An object of the present application is also to provide a stable mascara having a sufficiently thick texture to obtain a loading deposit of satisfactory consistency, allowing easy application to the eyelashes and a regular deposit, ie smooth and homogeneous, even after two months stored at 45 ° C. An object of the present application is more particularly to provide a stable mascara having a sufficiently thick texture to obtain a loading deposit of satisfactory consistency, allowing easy application to the eyelashes and a regular deposit, ie smooth and homogeneous , even after two months stored at temperatures between 4 ° C and 45 ° C. An object of the present application is more particularly to provide a mascara in which the waxes are dispersed homogeneously. An object of the present application is more particularly to provide a mascara in which the pigments are dispersed homogeneously.

An object of the present application is more particularly to provide a mascara pleasant to the application. An object of the present invention is more particularly to provide a composition for coating keratinous fibers allowing a good separation of the eyelashes during its application, without the formation of bundles of eyelashes, and this ensuring a deposit of smooth and regular material (without clusters decomposition). An object of the present invention is more particularly to obtain a keratinous fiber coating composition, preferably a mascara, having good application properties in terms of slipperiness and playtime (redeposition, retouching). Another object of the present invention is to obtain a composition for coating keratinous fibers, preferably a mascara, giving rise to a volume effect on the eyelashes. Another object of the present invention is to obtain a composition for coating keratinous fibers, preferably a mascara, which has good hold on the eyelashes. Another object of the present invention is to obtain a composition for coating keratinous fibers, preferably a mascara, giving rise to a loading or covering deposit.

Another object of the present invention is to obtain a composition for coating keratinous fibers, preferably a mascara, having good elongation properties for eyelashes coated with such a composition.

An object of the present invention is to obtain a coating composition for keratinous fibers, preferably a mascara, having good bending properties for eyelashes coated with such a composition. An object of the present invention is still to obtain a composition for coating keratinous fibers, preferably a mascara, having a good intensity of black, from a colorimetric and chromatic point of view. Another object of the present invention is to obtain a composition for coating keratinous fibers, preferably a mascara, which has good adhesion to the eyelashes. In particular, an object of the present invention is to provide a composition for coating keratinous fibers of good resistance, resistant to friction and / or water, especially to ambient humidity, tears, sweat and / or or sebum, while allowing easy makeup removal. Accordingly, the subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition for coating keratinous fibers, preferably eyelashes, preferably a mascara composition, of the emulsion type, preferably wax (es) in water, comprising: an aqueous phase, particles comprising at least one hard wax, preferably present in the form of at least one aqueous dispersion of particles of hard wax (es), the hard wax (es) having a melting temperature greater than or equal to 60 ° C, the hard wax (es) being present at a total content greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; at least one emulsifying system capable of dispersing at least the hard wax (es), comprising at least one nonionic surfactant of HLB value at 25 ° C. of less than 8 chosen from at least one fatty acid ester in 012-020 and a glycerol group, and at least one anionic surfactant chosen from at least s acyl glutamic acid having at least one C12-C22 acyl chain and its salts, preferably of HLB value at 25 ° C greater than or equal to 8.

According to a preferred embodiment, the particles in accordance with the invention comprise: at least one hard wax, preferably present in the form of at least one aqueous dispersion of particles of hard wax (s), the (the) hard wax (es) having a melting temperature greater than or equal to 60 ° C, the hard wax (es) is (s) present (s) to a total content greater than or equal to 10 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and * preferably at least one aqueous dispersion of particles of at least one film-forming polymer, the film-forming polymer (s) being preferably present (s) at a solids content greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. Surprisingly and unexpectedly, the inventors of the present application solved this problem (s) by means of such a composition. In particular, a composition according to the invention gives rise to a composition in the form of an emulsion, which can be rich in dry extract, in particular in stable fatty substance, having a homogeneous and even dispersion of waxes, even after 2 months at 45 ° C or 4 ° C. It appears that such a composition also has good dispersion of the pigments, is smooth, shiny and has an intense black. Such a composition is still pleasant to the application, comfortable and has a volume effect. In addition, this composition is of good water resistance due to a strong presence in aqueous dispersion of film-forming particles, without greatly impacting the volume effect.

According to the inventors, the combination of surfactants as described above allows an excellent compromise texture and cosmetics. Moreover, such thickening surfactants could hardly have been envisaged in a formula rich in hard waxes and generally in dry extract.

The subject of the present invention is also, according to a second aspect, a kit or kit for coating keratinous fibers comprising: at least one cosmetic composition for coating keratinous fibers as previously described, and at least one applicator of the composition, said applicator comprising means, optionally in relief, configured to engage with said keratinous fibers, such as eyelashes or eyebrows, to smooth and / or separate eyelashes or eyebrows. Such reliefs may include teeth, bristles or other. Said assembly, and in particular said applicator, may optionally be equipped with means for vibrating and / or heating said composition. The subject of the present invention is also, according to a third aspect, an assembly, or kit, for conditioning and applying a composition for coating keratin fibers, comprising: a device for conditioning said cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers such as previously described, an applicator of said composition. Said applicator may be secured to a gripping member forming a cover for said conditioning device. In other words said applicator can be mounted in a removable position on said device between a closed position and a position released from a dispensing opening of the packaging device of said composition. The subject of the present invention is also, according to a fourth aspect, a process for coating keratin fibers, and in particular eyelash makeup, comprising a step of applying a cosmetic composition for coating keratinous fibers as previously described. The subject of the present invention is also, according to a fifth aspect, a process for the preparation, or manufacture, of a composition as defined above consisting, in the steps of: in a first phase of heating the hard wax (es) (s) and optionally the wax (es) additional (s) at a temperature above its (their) melting point to melt the (or) wax (s), add at least one emulsifying system comprising at least minus a nonionic surfactant of HLB value at 25 ° C of less than 8 and at least one anionic surfactant selected from at least one acyl glutamic acid having at least one acyl chain at 012-022 and its salts, adding water, being given that the water content used is greater than 25% by weight relative to the total weight of this first phase, preferably 30% by weight, or even 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of this first phase, and that the total content of wax (es) lasts, and possibly of additional wax (es), and the total content of the emulsifying system (s) are such that the weight ratio of the wax (es) lasts more than the wax (es) (s) additional (s) / emulsifier (s) system (s) is less than or equal to 1.75, preferably less than or equal to 1.5, in particular between 1/3 and 1.25 (preferably only the system above-described emulsifier is to be considered for this calculation), add the dyestuffs, optionally add any other thickening compound such as gums, fillers, pasty fatty substances, water-soluble film-forming polymers, the order of addition being indifferent being however understood it is preferable that the water is not present first to avoid any early evaporation, emulsify the whole while stirring at a temperature above the melting point of the wax (es), - in a second phase of have an aqueous phase, possibly comprising nt, or being optionally formed by an aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer particles, in a container where the temperature is comprised, preferably controlled, inclusive between 0 and 45 ° C, and preferably between 0 and 20 ° C, the order of preparation of the first phase and of the second phase being indifferent, - bringing the first and the second phase into the presence of the first phase at a temperature higher than the melting point of the wax (es) in the container containing the second phase having a temperature, preferably controlled, inclusive between 0 and 45 ° C, and preferably between 0 and 20 ° C, - leave stirring until the temperature of the mixture stabilizes at the temperature, preferably controlled, inclusive between 0 and 45 ° C, and preferably between 0 and 20 ° C, - optionally, preferentially add the preservative system once the temperature of the m mixing the first phase with the second phase stabilized at the temperature, preferably controlled, inclusive between 0 and 45 ° C, and preferably between 0 and 20 ° C. The use of this particular method makes it possible to obtain cosmetic compositions, and in particular mascara, having a color, and in particular a black, intense. The subject of the present invention is also, according to a sixth aspect, a composition obtained by said method of preparation as described above.

The subject of the present invention is also, according to a seventh aspect, a use of a preparation method as described above to obtain makeup compositions, in particular mascara, preferably black, smooth, shiny and / or, preferably, , intense color.

Throughout the following description and unless expressly stated: - the term "alkyl (e)" means a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, saturated, C8-C24, better C12-C20, more preferably C14-C18. The term "acyl (e)" means a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, saturated, C8-C24, better still C12-C20, more preferably C14-C18, comprising a carboxylic function whose hydroxyl function (-OH) has been substituted. - "Additional wax (es)" means any wax other than a hard wax, and thus the soft wax (es). According to particular preferred embodiments of the present invention relating to both the above-described compositions and methods and aimed at solving at least one of the aforementioned problems: the emulsion is of the wax-in-the-wool type; water; the aqueous phase represents from 30 to 80% by weight, preferably from 40 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; said composition comprises a fatty phase dispersed in the aqueous phase, the fatty phase predominantly comprising particles of hard wax (es), preferably present in the form of aqueous dispersion (s); at least one of the nonionic surfactant (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C. of less than 8 chosen from at least one fatty acid ester at 0-12-020 and a glycerol group is glyceryl monostearate; the anionic surfactant (s) chosen from acyl glutamic acid (s) (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid), their salts (glutamates), and mixtures thereof, are (are) preferably chosen (s); ) among the lauroyl glutamic, glutamic myristoyl, glutamic palmitoyl, glutamic stearoyl, behenoyl glutamic, glutamic olivoyl, glutamic cocoyl and inorganic salts, such as alkaline such as Na, Li, K, preferably Na or K, metal salts earth alkalis such as Mg or, organic salts such as the ammonium salts of said acids, and their mixture (s); the nonionic surfactant (s) having a HLB value at 25 ° C. of less than 8, chosen from at least one C 12 -C 20 fatty acid ester and a glycerol group, preferably glyceryl monostearate, is (are) present at a content greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 8 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition ; the anionic surfactant (s), preferably of HLB value at 25 ° C greater than or equal to 8, preferably greater than or equal to 10, chosen from acyl glutamic acids, and their salts, is are) present (s) at a content greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 8 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; the nonionic surfactant (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C. of less than 8, chosen from at least one C 12 -C 20 fatty acid ester and a glycerol group, preferably the monostearate; glyceryl, and the anionic surfactant (s) chosen from acyl glutamic acids, and their salts, are (are) present at a total content greater than or equal to 10%, preferably at least 12%. %, in particular between 15 and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; the nonionic surfactant (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C. of less than 8, chosen from at least one C 12 -C 20 fatty acid ester and a glycerol group, preferably the monostearate; of glyceryl, and the anionic surfactant (s) chosen from acyl glutamic acids, and their salts, are present at a respective total content such that the weight ratio of the surfactant (s) ) non-ionic (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C lower than 8 on the non-ionic surfactant (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C greater than or equal to 8, ranging from 1/5 to 5, preferably from 1/3 to 3, preferably from 2/3 to 3/2; - the total content of hard wax (es) and possibly additional wax (es) and the total content of the emulsifying system (s) are such that the weight ratio of the wax (es) ( s) lasts + the additional wax (es) / the emulsifying system (s) is less than or equal to 1.75, preferably less than or equal to 1.5, in particular between 1 / 3 and 1.25 (preferably only the emulsifier system according to the invention is to be considered for this calculation); said composition is free of oil or organic solvent; the fatty phase represents 15 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; said composition comprises a solids content greater than or equal to 42%, preferably 45%, more preferably 48% or even 50%; the particles of hard waxes present in said (final) composition an average size expressed as the "effective" mean diameter in volume D [4.3] less than or equal to 5 μm, preferably less than or equal to 2 μm, more preferably still greater than 1 μm, for example between 0.01 and 5 μm, and more preferably between 0.05 and 2 μm; the particles of film-forming polymers introduced in the form of an aqueous dispersion (s) in said composition have in said composition an average size expressed as an "effective" mean diameter by volume D [4.3] less than or equal to 5 μm, preferably less than or equal to 2 μm, more preferably still at 1 μm, for example between 0.01 and 5 μm, and more preferably between 0.05 and 2 μm; said composition comprises a total content of hard wax particles, preferably present in the form of an aqueous dispersion, greater than or equal to 12% by weight, preferably 15% by weight, preferably 18% by weight, weight, more preferably at 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, for example between 16 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; said composition comprises a total content of hard wax particles, preferably present in the form of aqueous dispersion (s), representing at least 80% by weight, preferably at least 90% by weight; weight, more preferably 100% by weight, relative to the total weight of wax (es); the total content of hard wax particles, preferably present in the form of aqueous dispersion (s), is greater than or equal to 30% by weight, preferably 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the particles; the total content of hard wax particles, preferably present in the form of aqueous dispersion (s), represents at least 80% relative to the total weight of fatty substances; the hard wax (es) in the form of particles, preferably present in the form of an aqueous dispersion (s), are polar; the hard wax (es) are not introduced into the manufacture of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, preferably a mascara, in the form of an aqueous dispersion of pre-prepared particles; the particles of film-forming polymer (s) are introduced into the preparation of the composition in the form of an aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer (s) pre-prepared; Indeed, the dispersion of the wax (es) hard (s) is carried out in situ, using the (the) wax (es) hard (s) in the form of powder, or fat, forming in a first phase of preparation of an emulsion and bringing together in a second phase the hard wax (es) emulsified in an aqueous phase preferably containing an aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer (s) so as to that the water, optionally derived from the aqueous dispersion of polymer (s) film-forming (s), provides an aqueous dispersion of hard wax particles (s). said composition comprises a total content of particles of film-forming polymer (s) present in the form of aqueous dispersion (s) of greater than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; in contrast to the hard wax (es), the film-forming polymer (s) conforming to the invention are, during the manufacture of a cosmetic composition according to the invention; invention, preferably of a mascara, introduced in the form of an aqueous dispersion of particles of film-forming polymer (s) pre-dispersed, advantageously provided with a clean emulsifying system, varied according to the chemistry of the polymer (s) film-forming process (es) implemented; the particles of film-forming polymer (s) have a clean emulsifying system, ie distinct from the emulsifying system according to the present invention, more particularly distinct from the nonionic surfactant (s) of HLB value at 25.degree. ° C greater than or equal to 8, or preferably greater than or equal to 10, adapted (s) to disperse the (the) hard wax (es); the particles of hard wax (es) and the film-forming polymer particles in aqueous dispersion have a respective emulsifying system, more specifically a respective surfactant; the total content of particles of film-forming polymer (s) present in the form of aqueous dispersion (s) is greater than or equal to 30% by weight, preferably 40% by weight, with respect to total weight of solid particles; the particles of film-forming polymer (s) present in the form of aqueous dispersion (s) are (are) chosen from synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof; the particles of polymer (s) film (s) present (s) in the form of aqueous dispersion (s) is (are) selected (s) among the dispersions of acrylic polymers, polyurethane dispersions, dispersions of sulfopolyesters, vinyl dispersions, polyvinyl acetate dispersions, vinyl pyrrolidone terpolymer, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide and lauryldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium chloride dispersions, polyurethane / polyacrylic hybrid polymer dispersions, core-shell particle dispersions and mixtures thereof, preferably among the dispersions of acrylic polymers, polyurethane / polyacrylic hybrid polymer dispersions, and their derivatives, and their mixture (s), preferably from dispersions of acrylic polymers, in particular styrene-acrylic polymers, and polyurethane dispersions, in particular particular polyester-polyurethane, and their derivatives, and their mixture (s); the total content of hard wax particles and the total content of particles of film-forming polymer (s), preferably both present in the form of aqueous dispersion (s), are such that the weight ratio of the hard wax particles to the particles of film-forming polymer (s) is greater than or equal to 1/2, preferably greater than 2/3, advantageously between 1/2 and 2, preferably between 2/3 and 3/2; said composition comprises one or more additional surfactant (s) (ie other than a nonionic surfactant of HLB value at 25 ° C. of less than 8 selected from at least one C 12 fatty acid ester; C20 and a glycerol group, and other than an anionic surfactant selected from at least one acyl glutamic acid having at least one 0-12-022 acyl chain and its salts, preferably of HLB value at 25 ° C greater than or equal to 8) selected from nonionic surfactants of HLB value at 25 ° C greater than or equal to 8, preferably greater than or equal to 10, the nonionic surfactant (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C lower at 8, anionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof; preferably from the nonionic surfactant (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C of less than 8; said composition comprises at least one water-soluble film-forming polymer, more preferably said composition is free of water-soluble film-forming polymer; said composition comprises at least one dyestuff chosen from one or more pulverulent material (s), preferably metal oxides, and in particular iron oxides; - The metal oxide (s) is (are) preferably present at a content greater than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, advantageously between 3 and 22 inclusive. % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; said composition comprises at least one hydrophilic and / or lipophilic gelling agent, preferably at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; said composition has a viscosity at 25 ° C. ranging from 5 to 50 Pa.s, in particular measured using a Rheomat RM100® apparatus; - The said composition may be a makeup composition, a makeup base or "base coat", a so-called "top-coat" composition to be applied to a make-up; Other characteristics, properties and advantages of the present invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. Aqueous Phase The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase, which can form a continuous phase of the composition. The aqueous phase comprises water. It may also comprise at least one water-soluble solvent. By "water-soluble solvent" is meant in the present invention a liquid compound at room temperature and miscible with water.

The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can moreover be volatile. Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, there may be mentioned lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. carbon such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol. The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) is generally present in the composition according to the present application in a content ranging from 30 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 40 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This aqueous phase content includes not only water from aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymers, and optionally aqueous dispersions of hard waxes, according to the invention and optionally water deliberately added to the composition. Dry extract The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a solids content greater than or equal to 42%, in particular 45%, even 48% and preferably 50%. For the purpose of the present invention, the "dry matter content" denotes the content of non-volatile matter. The amount of dry extract (abbreviated as ES) of a composition according to the invention is measured by means of a commercial halogen desiccant "HALOGEN MOISTURE ANALYZER HR 73" from METTLER TOLEDO. The measurement is based on the weight loss of a sample dried by halogen heating and thus represents the percentage of residual material once the water and volatiles have evaporated. This technique is fully described in the device documentation provided by METTLER TOLEDO. The measurement protocol is as follows: about 2 g of the composition, hereinafter the sample, is spread on a metal cup which is introduced into the halogen desiccant mentioned above. The sample is then subjected to a temperature of 105 ° C until a constant weight is obtained. The wet mass of the sample, corresponding to its initial mass, and the dry mass of the sample, corresponding to its mass after halogen heating, are measured by means of a precision balance. The experimental error related to the measurement is of the order of plus or minus 2%.

The content of dry extract is calculated as follows: Dry extract content (expressed in% by weight) = 100 × (Dry mass / Wet mass). A composition according to the invention comprises particles of waxes, of film-forming polymer (s), and at least one particular emulsifying system.

Emulsifying system A composition according to the invention comprises an emulsifying system capable of dispersing at least the hard wax (es), comprising at least one nonionic surfactant of HLB value at 25 ° C. of less than 8 chosen from minus a fatty acid ester at 0-12-020 and a glycerol group, and at least one anionic surfactant chosen from at least one acyl glutamic acid having at least one 0-12-022 acyl chain and its salts, preferably of value HLB at 25 ° C greater than or equal to 8. This emulsifying system is capable of dispersing the hard wax particles and possibly the additional wax (es). It may also be able to disperse the particles of film-forming polymer (s), however the particles of film-forming polymer (s) may have an own emulsifying system, distinct from that adapted to disperse the wax particles. (s) lasts and possibly the additional wax (es).

The HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) value according to Griffin is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256. Reference can be made to the document "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER", Vol. 22, p. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, VVILEY, for the definition of the properties and emulsifying functions of surfactants, in particular p. 347-377 of this reference.

Acyl glutamic acid (s) and their salt (s) Acyl glutamic acid (s) is defined as acyl glutamic acid (s) and their salt (s). ).

A composition according to the invention comprises at least one acyl glutamic acid having at least one 0-12-022 acyl chain, their salt (s) (glutamates), and their mixture (s). In particular, the acyl glutamic acid (s) (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid), their salts (glutamates), and mixtures thereof, are (are) chosen from acyl glutamic acids having a acyl chain at 012-022, and the alkali metal salts such as Na, Li, K, preferably Na or K, the alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg or the ammonium salts of said acids, and their (s) mixture (s). More preferably, the acyl glutamic acid (s) (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid), their salts (glutamates), and mixtures thereof, are (are) preferably chosen from lauroyl glutamic acid (s). , glutamic myristoyl, glutamic palmitoyl, glutamic stearoyl, behenoyl glutamic, glutamic olivoyl, glutamic cocoyl and alkali metal salts such as Na, Li, K, preferably Na or K, alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg or salts ammonium of said acids, and their mixture (s).

Mention may in particular be made of the compounds bearing the INCI name lauroyl glutamic acid, cocoyl glutamic acid, sodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, and their mixture (s). Such compounds are sold under the name Amisoft by the company Ajinomoto and in particular under the references Friendsoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK-11, Amisoft 0K-11, or marketed by the company. Keminova ltaliana SRL. Acyl glutamic acid (s) salt (s) may also be mentioned disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate such as that marketed under the reference Amisoft HS21 by the company Ajinomoto.

It is also possible to mention commercial mixtures of surfactants comprising at least one acyl glutamic acid salt, for example the mixture of acyl glutamate salts, such as the Amisoft LS-22 marketed by AJINOMOTO. According to one particular embodiment, the mono-sodium salt of n-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid, more particularly that marketed by the company AJINOMOTO under the reference Amisoft HS 11, is used. A composition according to the invention has a content of surfactant (s) nonionic (s) of HLB value, Griffin sense, at 25 ° C, greater than or equal to 8, preferably greater than or equal to 10, greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 8 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Nonionic surfactant (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C. of less than 8 A nonionic surfactant of HLB value at 25 ° C. of less than 8 according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one fatty acid ester in 0 12 -020 and a glycerol group. The alkyl chain of the 0-12-020 fatty acid may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably linear and saturated. By "fatty acid" is meant a mono-fatty acid.

The nonionic surfactant of HLB value at 25 ° C. of less than 8 is preferably chosen from glyceryl monostearate. A composition according to the invention has a content of nonionic surfactant (s) of HLB value, Griffin sense, at 25 ° C, less than 8, greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 8 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Moreover, the emulsifying system can comprise one or more cosurfactants selected from fatty alcohols comprising from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms; Particles The compositions according to the present invention comprise particles of hard wax (es) and preferably of film-forming polymer (s), preferably present in the form of aqueous dispersion (s).

These particles can be characterized by an average particle size. Such particles are generally isotropic, in particular of substantially spherical or spherical shape. Particle size A particle size can be measured by different techniques. In particular, light scattering techniques (dynamic and static), Coulter sensor methods, sedimentation rate measurements (connected to size via the stokes law) and microscopy can be mentioned. These techniques make it possible to measure a particle diameter and, for some of them, a particle size distribution. Preferably, the sizes and particle size distributions of the compositions according to the invention are measured by static light scattering by means of a commercial Master Sizer 2000 type granulometer from Malvern. The data is processed on the basis of Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" diameter of particles. This theory is particularly described in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, VViley, New York, 1957.

In the context of the present invention, the "mean particle size" is expressed as the mean "effective" diameter by volume D [4.3], defined as follows: EV, - d, D [4 - 'EV where V represents the volume of particles of effective diameter d ,. This parameter is described in particular in the technical documentation of the granulometer. The measurements are carried out at 25 ° C. on a diluted particle dispersion. The "effective" diameter is obtained by taking a refractive index of 1.33 for water and an average refractive index of 1.45 for particles. Thus, preferably, the particles of the compositions in accordance with the invention, comprising at least one hard wax and preferably at least one film-forming polymer, both preferably present in the form of aqueous dispersions, have an average size expressed in average "effective" diameter. in volume D [4.3] less than or equal to 5 μm, in particular strictly less than 5 μm, more preferably less than 2 μm, and still more preferably less than or equal to 1 μm.

Such particle sizes preferably correspond to the size of the particles in the final composition. This average size of particles is advantageous in terms of the implementation of the composition according to the present invention compared to compositions comprising particles of hard waxes and film-forming polymers of larger sizes which result in a mascara difficult or impossible to formulate , granular, too thick, inapplicable (too compact and not friable), uncomfortable, with poor dispersion of pigments and fillers, and matte color. It is understood that the emulsifying system (s) will have a tendency to position themselves at the interface of the aqueous phase and the hard wax particles, and possibly particles of film-forming polymers, to stabilize them. The measured particle sizes are therefore in the presence of the agent (s) surfactant (s), being difficult to dissociate the particles. The sizes measured and given reflect this feature.

As regards the other particles of the composition, for example dyestuffs and fillers, these compounds will be treated independently in another paragraph of the description, the size characteristics of this type of particles diverging with respect to the particle sizes of the waxes and film-forming polymers conforming to the invention.

The particles are advantageously present in a composition according to the invention at a content greater than or equal to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better still ranging from 35% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. .

Wax (es) The wax (es) is (are) in general a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a point of melting greater than or equal to 30 ° C up to 200 ° C and in particular up to 120 ° C. For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by the company TA Instruments. Preferably, the waxes have a heat of fusion A.Hf greater than or equal to 70 J / g. Preferably, the waxes comprise at least one crystallizable part, visible by X-ray observations.

The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C to 120 ° C, at the heating rate of 10 ° C / minute. then cooled from 120 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 120 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second rise in temperature, the following parameters are measured: the melting point (Tf) of the wax, as previously mentioned, corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the observed melting curve, representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature, - A.Hf: the melting enthalpy of the wax corresponding to the integral of the whole of the melting curve obtained. This enthalpy of fusion of the wax is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.

The wax (es) may be hydrocarbon (s), fluorinated (s) and / or silicone (s) and may be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin. The wax (es) may be present at a total content greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better still at 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, it (they) is (are) present in a content ranging from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 15 to 30% by weight. A composition according to the invention comprises at least one hard wax, preferably present in the preparation of the composition in the form of an aqueous dispersion of particle (s) of wax (es).

Hard wax According to the invention, the composition more specifically comprises at least one hard wax. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hard wax" is intended to mean a wax having a melting point of greater than or equal to 60 ° C., in particular ranging from 65 to 120 ° C., more preferably from 70 to 100 ° C. Advantageously, "hard" wax within the meaning of the present invention means a wax having, at 20 ° C., a hardness greater than 5 MPa, in particular ranging from 5 to 30 MPa, preferably greater than 6 MPa, more preferably ranging from 6 to 25 MPa.

To perform these hardness measurements, the wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 20 ° C. For this purpose, 30 g of wax are placed in a 100 mm diameter beaker 50 mm in diameter, itself positioned on a heating magnetic stirring plate.

About 15 g of melted wax are poured into a stainless steel container 80 mm in diameter and 15 mm deep and heated to 45 ° C. in an oven. The wax is then allowed to crystallize in a thermostatically controlled room at 20 ° C. for 24 hours before making the measurement. The mechanical properties of the wax or of the mixture of waxes are determined in a room thermostatically controlled at 20 ° C. using the texturometer sold under the name TA-XT2i by the company Swantech, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder of a diameter 2 mm. The measurement comprises 3 steps: a first step after automatic detection of the surface of the sample where the mobile moves at the measurement speed of 0.1 mm / s, and penetrates into the wax at a depth of penetration of 0, 3 mm, the software notes the value of the maximum force reached; a second so-called relaxation stage where the mobile stays at this position for one second and where the force is noted after 1 second of relaxation; finally a third so-called withdrawal step where the mobile returns to its initial position at the speed of 1 mm / s and the energy of withdrawal of the probe (negative force) is recorded. The value of the hardness corresponds to the maximum compression force measured in Newton divided by the surface of the cylinder of the texturometer expressed in mm 2 in contact with the wax. The value of hardness obtained is expressed in mega-pascals or MPa.

Examples of hard wax include Carnauba wax, candelilla wax, wax BIS-PEG-12 DIMETHICONE CANDELILLATE such as, for example, Siliconyl Candellila Wax marketed by KOSTER KEUNEN, wax hydrogenated Jojoba such as, for example, that marketed by the company DESERT VVHALE, hydrogenated palm oil such as that sold by the company SIO, rice bran wax, Sumac wax, ceresin waxes, laurel wax, Chinese insect wax, Shellac wax, hydrogenated olive oil such as SOLIANCE's VVaxolive, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with fatty chain alcohol in 012 to 018 such as those sold by the company SOPHIM under the trade names Phytowax Olive 12L44, 14L48, 16L55 and 18L57, the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol or behenic alcohol for example those sold under the names Phytowax Ricin 16 L 64 and Phytowax Ricin 22 L 73 by the company SOPHIM, hydrogenated Camelina wax, Ouricury wax, Montan wax, ozokerite wax like, for example, Wax SP 1020 P marketed by Strahl & Pitsch, microcrystalline waxes, for example those sold under the trade name Microwax HVV by the company Paramelt, triglycerides of lauric, palmitic, cetyl and stearic acids ( INCI name: hydrogenated coco-glycerides) such as, for example, that sold under the trade name Softisan 100 by SASOL, polymethylene waxes, for example, that sold under the trade name Cirebelle 303 by the company SASOL, the polyethylene waxes, for example, those sold under the trade names Performalene 400 polyethylene, Performalene 655 polyethylene and Performalene 500-L polyeth ylene by the company New Phase Technologies, alcohol-polyethylene waxes such as, for example, that marketed under the name Performacol 425 Alcohol by Bareco, the ethylene / acrylic acid 95/5 copolymer sold under the trade name AC 540 wax by the company Honeywell, hydroxyoctacosanyl hydroxystearate, for example that sold under the trade name Elfacos C 26 by the company Akzo, octacosanyl stearate, for example that marketed under the name Kester Wax K 82H by the company KOSTER KEUNEN, stearyl stearate, for example that marketed under the name Liponate SS by the company LIPO CHEMICALS, pentaerythritol distearate, for example that marketed under the name Cutina PES by the company COGNIS , the mixture of dibehenyl adipate, dioctadecyl adipate and di-eicosanyl adipate (INCI name C18-22 dialkyl adipate ), the mixture of dilauryl adipate and ditetradecyl adipate (INCI name: C12-14 dialkyl adipate), the mixture of dioctadecyl sebacate, didocosyl sebacate and sebacate dieicosyl (INCI name: dialkyl sebacate). C18-22), the mixture of dioctadecyl octadecanedioate, of didocosyl octanedioate and of dieicosyl octanedioate (INCI name: C18-22 dialkyl octanedioate), for example those marketed by the company COGNIS, tetrastearate of pentaerythrityl, for example liponate PS-4 from Lipo Chemicals, tetracontanyl stearate, for example Kester Wax K76 H from Koster Keunen, stearyl benzoate such as, for example, Finsolv 116. FINETEX, behenyl fumarate such as, for example, Marrix 222 from the company Akzo Bernel, di- (trimethyl-1,1,1-propane) tetrastearate, for example, the one proposed under name "HEST 2T-4S By the company HETERENE, didotriacontanyl distearate such as, for example, the Kester Wax K82D from KOSTER KEUNEN, polyethylene glycol montanate with 4 oxyethylene units (PEG-4), for example, that sold under the name Trade name Clariant Licowax KST1, hexanediol disalycilate such as, for example, Betawax RX-13750 sold by CP Hall, dipentaerythritol hexastearate, for example, that sold under the trade name Hest 2P-6S by the company HETERENE, ditrimethylolpropane tetrahenenate, for example that sold under the trade name HEST 2T-4B by the company HETERENE, Jojoba esters, for example, the one sold under the trade name Floraester HIP by FLORATECH, mixtures of linear carboxylic acid (020-40) / saturated hydrocarbons (INCI name: 020-40 acid polyethylene) such as, for example, Pe rformacid 350 acid of the company NEW PHASE TECHNOLOGIES, the synthetic wax Fischer-Tropsch type such as that marketed under the reference Rosswax 100 by the company ROSS 'stearic alcohol, behen alcohol, dioctadecyl carbonate, for example , Cutina KE 3737, sucrose polybehenate such as, for example, Crodaderm B from CRODA, and mixtures thereof. The waxes mentioned above can also be used in the form of commercially available mixtures, for example, under the names KOSTER KPC-56 (mixture of 87.5% by weight of cetyl stearate, 7.5% by weight). weight of behenic alcohol and 5% by weight of palm kernel glycerides), KPC-60 (mixture of 87.5% by weight of stearyl stearate, 7.5% by weight of behenic alcohol and 5% by weight of weight of palm kernel glycerides), KPC-63 (mixture of 87.5% by weight of behenyl stearate, 7.5% by weight of behenic alcohol and 5% by weight of palm kernel glycerides) and KPC-80 (Mixture of 86% by weight of synthetic beeswax, 7.5% of hydrogenated vegetable oil and 6.5% by weight of behenic alcohol) from KOSTER KEUNEN. It is preferable to use waxes of vegetable origin, such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, sumac wax, and waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with fatty alcohols. chain 012 to 018 sold by the company SOPHIM in the Phytowax range (12L44, 14L48, 16L55 and 18L57), rice bran wax, stearyl and behenic alcohols, laurel wax, Ouricury wax. Preferably, the wax particles used in the preparation of a composition according to the present invention are not introduced in the form of microdispersion of pre-prepared hard waxes, as described in the patent applications FR2687569 or FR2815849. Indeed, (la) the hard wax (es) used in a composition according to the present invention are introduced in the form of powder, or solid fat. However, the final composition may be defined as having an aqueous dispersion of hard wax (es). Indeed, according to the present manufacturing method the dispersion of hard wax (s) is carried out in situ, allowing surprisingly and advantageously to reach dry extracts and high wax content (s) , unreachable if a microdispersion of hard waxes pre-prepared was introduced such as to manufacture a cosmetic composition according to the invention. Indeed, in the present invention, the water from the aqueous dispersion of the polymer (s) film-forming (s) serves to achieve the dispersion of the wax (es) hard (s). The hard wax (es) is (are) preferably polar. By "polar wax" is meant a wax whose solubility parameter calculated beyond its melting point Sa is different from 0 (J / cm 3)%. In particular, "polar" wax is understood to mean a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen atom. , nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus.

The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the HANSEN three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C. M. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). According to this Hansen space: - SD characterizes the LON DON dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks; - 8p characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; - Sh characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor type, etc.); - δa is determined by the equation: lala = (8p2 + 8112)% The parameters 8p, Sh, SD and Sa are expressed in (J / cm3)%.

The composition according to the invention comprises a content of hard wax (es), preferably present (s) in the form of an aqueous dispersion, greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. More generally, the composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a total content of hard wax (es), preferably present (s) in the form of an aqueous dispersion, ranging from 10 to 30% by weight, better still from 15 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to an advantageous embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a total content of particles of hard wax (es), preferably present (s) in the form of an aqueous dispersion, such that it (s) represents (nt) ) at least 80% by weight, preferably at least 90% by weight, and more preferably still 100% by weight, relative to the total weight wax (s).

Preferably, the total content of hard wax (es), preferably present (s) in the form of aqueous dispersion, is greater than or equal to 30% by weight, preferably 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the solid particles. According to an advantageous embodiment, the total content of hard wax (es), preferably present (s) in the form of an aqueous dispersion, represent at least 80% by weight, preferably at least 90% by weight, more preferably still 100% by weight, based on the total weight of fatty substances. Additionally, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one soft wax, present in the form of an aqueous dispersion of wax particles or not, that is to say the melting temperature of which is strictly less than 50 ° C, and optionally whose hardness is strictly less than 5 M Pa. However, a composition according to the invention preferably comprises less than 5% by weight of soft wax (es), preferably less than 2% by weight of soft wax (es), more preferably still is free of soft wax (es).

Film-forming polymer (s) The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one aqueous dispersion of particles of film-forming polymer (s) and optionally at least one additional film-forming polymer (not present in the form of an aqueous dispersion of particles, such as a water-soluble film-forming polymer).

In the present application, the term "film-forming polymer" is intended to mean a polymer capable of forming on its own or in the presence of a film-forming auxiliary agent a macroscopically continuous deposit, and preferably a cohesive deposit, and better still a deposit of which the cohesion and the mechanical properties are such that said deposit can be isolable and manipulable in isolation, for example when said deposit is made by casting on a non-stick surface such as a Teflon or silicone surface. A composition according to the invention preferably comprises a total dry matter content of polymer (s) film-forming (s) greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, better at 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition according to the invention preferably comprises a total dry matter content of film-forming polymer (s) ranging from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better still from 12 to 25%. The composition according to the invention preferably comprises more precisely at least one aqueous dispersion of particles formed from one or more film-forming polymers. It may also comprise at least one water-soluble film-forming polymer. Thus a composition may comprise at least one additional film-forming polymer, distinct from particles of film-forming polymer (s) present (s) in the form of aqueous dispersion. The content of these (these) additional film-forming polymer (s), said water-soluble (s), is preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably still to 5% by weight. % by weight, more preferably 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Polymer (s) filmoqene (s) in aqueous dispersion Such film-forming polymer present in said preparation of the composition in the form of particles in aqueous dispersion, are generally called (pseudo) latex, that is to say latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art. A dispersion suitable for the invention may comprise one or more types of particles, these particles being able to vary in size, structure and / or chemical nature.

A composition according to the invention comprises a total dry matter content of film-forming polymer (s) in the form of an aqueous dispersion greater than or equal to 10% by weight. Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises a total content of dry matter of polymer particles (s) film-forming (s) in the form of aqueous dispersion greater than or equal to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition according to the invention preferably comprises a total dry matter content of polymer particles (s) film-forming (s) ranging from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better from 12 to 25% by weight. weight.

The total content of particles of film-forming polymer (s) present (s) in the form of aqueous dispersion (s) is preferably greater than or equal to 30% by weight, preferably 40% by weight, relative to to the total weight of the particles. These particles may be of anionic, cationic or neutral nature and may constitute a mixture of particles of different natures. Among the film-forming polymers that can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of free radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof. In general, these polymers may be random polymers, block copolymers of type A-B, multi-block A-B-A or alternatively ABCD ..., or even graft polymers. Radical Filmoqene Polymer "Radical polymer" means a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated monomers, especially ethylenic monomers, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates). The radical-type film-forming polymers may in particular be homopolymers or copolymers, acrylic and / or vinylic.

The vinyl film-forming polymers may result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acidic group and / or esters of these acidic monomers and / or amides of these acidic monomers. As ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acidic group or monomer carrying an acid group, unsaturated α, β-ethylenic carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, acid can be used. maleic, itaconic acid. In particular, (meth) acrylic acid and crotonic acid are used, and more particularly (meth) acrylic acid. The acidic monomer esters are advantageously chosen from esters of (meth) acrylic acid (also called (meth) acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C 1 -C 20 alkyl, more especially C 1 -C 8, (meth) acrylates of aryl, in particular of C 6 -C 10 aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular hydroxy (C 2 -C 6) alkyl. Among the alkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, ethyl 2-hexyl methacrylate and lauryl methacrylate. Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate. Among the aryl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate. The esters of (meth) acrylic acid are in particular alkyl (meth) acrylates.

According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters can be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, ie some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms. Amides of the acidic monomers include, for example, (meth) acrylamides, and especially N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, in particular C 2 -C 12 alkyl. Among the N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, mention may be made of N-ethyl acrylamide, N-t-butyl acrylamide and N-t-octyl acrylamide. The vinyl film-forming polymers can also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers can be polymerized with acidic monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above. Examples of vinyl esters include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate. As styrene monomers, mention may be made of styrene of alpha-methyl styrene. The list of monomers given is not limiting and it is possible to use any monomer known to those skilled in the art falling into the categories of acrylic and vinyl monomers (including monomers modified with a silicone chain). As the vinyl polymer, it is also possible to use silicone acrylic polymers. Mention may also be made of the polymers resulting from the radical polymerization of one or more radical monomers, inside and / or partially on the surface of pre-existing particles of at least one polymer chosen from the group consisting of polyurethanes and polyureas. , polyesters, polyesteramides and / or alkyds. These polymers are generally called "hybrid polymers".

Polvcondensat As film-forming polymer of the polycondensate type, mention may be made of anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethane-acrylics, polyurethanes-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyesterpolyurethanes, polyether polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea / polyurethanes silicone polyurethanes and mixtures thereof. The film-forming polyurethane may be, for example, a polyurethane, polyurea / urethane or polyurea, aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic copolymer, comprising, alone or as a mixture, at least one sequence chosen from: a sequence of aliphatic and / or cycloaliphatic polyester origin and / or aromatic, and / or - a silicone sequence, branched or unbranched, for example polydimethylsiloxane or polymethylphenylsiloxane, and / or - a sequence comprising fluorinated groups. The film-forming polyurethanes as defined in the invention may also be obtained from branched or unbranched polyesters or from alkyds containing mobile hydrogens which are modified by reaction with a diisocyanate and a bifunctional organic compound (for example dihydro , diamino or hydroxyamino), further comprising either a carboxylic acid or carboxylate group, or a sulfonic acid or sulfonate group, or a tertiary amine neutralizable group or a quaternary ammonium group. Among the film-forming polycondensates, mention may also be made of polyesters, polyester amides, fatty-chain polyesters, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins. The polyesters can be obtained, in known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, especially diols. The dicarboxylic acid can be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. Examples of such acids are: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-acid. dimethylgluratic acid, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedic acid, 1,3-acid, cyclohexanedicarbocylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norborane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers may be used alone or in combination with at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and terephthalic acid are chosen in particular. The diol may be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic and aromatic diols.

In particular, a diol chosen from: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol and 4-butanediol is used. As other polyols, it is possible to use glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trimethylolpropane. The polyester amides can be obtained in a similar manner to the polyesters by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols. As the diamine, there can be used ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta or para-phenylenediamine. As aminoalcohol, monoethanolamine can be used. Polymer of natural origin It is possible to use in the present invention polymers of natural origin, which may be modified, such as shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammars, elemis, copals, water-insoluble cellulosic polymers, for example nitrocellulose, modified cellulose esters including carboxyalkyl cellulose esters such as those described in patent application US 2003/185774, and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, said at least one film-forming polymer in the dispersed state is chosen from acrylic polymer dispersions, polyurethane dispersions, sulfopolyesters dispersions, vinyl dispersions, polyvinyl acetate dispersions. vinylpyrrolidone terpolymer dispersions, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide and lauryldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium chloride, polyurethane / polyacrylic hybrid polymer dispersions, core-shell particle dispersions and mixtures thereof.

The following are various types of aqueous dispersions, especially commercial dispersions, suitable for the preparation of the composition according to the present invention. 1 / Thus, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the aqueous dispersion of polymer particles is an aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer. The acrylic polymer may be a styrene / acrylate copolymer, and in particular a polymer chosen from copolymers derived from the polymerization of at least one styrenic monomer and at least one C1-C18 alkyl (meth) acrylate monomer.

As styrene monomer usable in the invention include for example styrene or alpha-methylstyrene, and in particular styrene. The (C 1 -C 18) alkyl (meth) acrylate monomer is in particular a C 1 -C 12 alkyl (meth) acrylate and more particularly a C 1 -C 10 alkyl (meth) acrylate. The (C 1 -C 18) alkyl (meth) acrylate monomer may be chosen from methyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, methacrylate and the like. butyl, hexyl acrylate, octyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, lauryl (meth) acrylate and stearyl (meth) acrylate. As acrylic polymer in aqueous dispersion, it is possible to use according to the invention the styrene / acrylate copolymer sold under the name "Joncryl SCX-8211®" by the company BASF or "SYNTRAN 5760CG" by the company Interpolymer, the acrylic polymer marketed under the name reference "Acronal® DS-6250" by BASF, acrylic copolymer "Joncryl® 95" by BASF. 2 / according to an alternative embodiment of the invention, the aqueous dispersion of polymer particles is an aqueous dispersion of polyester-polyurethane particles and / or polyether polyurethane in particular anionic. The anionic character of the polyester-polyurethanes and polyether polyurethanes used according to the invention is due to the presence in their constituent units of carboxylic acid or sulphonic acid functional groups.

The polyester-polyurethane or polyether-polyurethane particles used according to the invention are generally marketed in the form of aqueous dispersions. The particle content of said dispersions currently available on the market ranges from about 20% to about 60% by weight based on the total weight of the dispersion. Among the dispersions of anionic polyester-polyurethane used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of the product sold under the name "Avalure UR 405®" by the company Noveon or "Baycusan 01004" 5 by the company BAYER MATERIAL SCIENCE. Among the dispersions of anionic polyether polyurethane particles that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of those sold under the name "Avalure UR 450®" by the company Noveon, and under the name "Néorez R 970®" by the company DSM. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, it is possible to use a mixture of commercial dispersions consisting of anionic polyester-polyurethane particles as defined above and anionic polyether-polyurethane particles also defined above. For example, it is possible to use a mixture consisting of the dispersion sold under the name "Sancure 861®" or a mixture of the one marketed under the name "Avalure UR 405®" and that marketed under the name "Avalure UR". 450® ", these dispersions being marketed by the company NOVEON. According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the aqueous dispersion used comprises a mixture of at least two film-forming polymers in the form of discrete particles by their respective glass transition temperatures (Tg). In particular, according to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one first film-forming polymer in the dispersed state and at least one second film-forming polymer in the dispersed state, said first and second polymers having different Tg and preferably the Tg of the first polymer (Tg1) is greater than the Tg of the second polymer (Tg2). In particular, the difference between Tg1 and Tg2 is in absolute value, at least 10 ° C, preferably at least 20 ° C. More specifically, it comprises in an acceptable aqueous medium: a) particles dispersed in the aqueous medium of a first film-forming polymer having at least a glass transition temperature Tgl greater than or equal to 20 ° C., and b) dispersed particles in the aqueous medium of a second film-forming polymer having at least a glass transition temperature Tg 2 of less than or equal to 70 ° C. This dispersion generally results from a mixture of two aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymer. The first film-forming polymer has at least one, especially at a glass transition temperature Tg1 of greater than or equal to 20 ° C., in particular ranging from 20 ° C. to 150 ° C., and advantageously greater than or equal to 40 ° C., in particular ranging from 40 ° C. ° C to 150 ° C, and in particular greater than or equal to 50 ° C, in particular ranging from 50 ° C to 150 ° C. The second film-forming polymer has at least one, especially at a glass transition temperature Tg2 of less than or equal to 70 ° C., especially ranging from -120 ° C. to 70 ° C., and in particular lower than 50 ° C., in particular ranging from 60 ° C to +50 ° C, and more particularly ranging from -30 ° C to 30 ° C.

The measurement of the glass transition temperature (Tg) of a polymer is carried out by DMTA (Dynamic and Mechanical Temperature Analysis) as described below. To measure the glass transition temperature (Tg) of a polymer, viscoelasticimetry tests were performed with a DMTA apparatus of "Polymer Laboratories" on a film sample. This film is prepared by casting the aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer in a Teflon matrix and then dried at 120 ° C. for 24 hours. A film is then obtained in which the specimens are cut (for example by punching). These typically have a thickness of about 150 μm, a width of 5 to 10 mm and a useful length of about 10 to 15 mm. This sample is imposed a tensile stress. The sample is subjected to a static force of 0.01 N superimposed on a sinusoidal displacement of ± 8 μm at a frequency of 1 Hz. This is done in the linear domain under low deformation levels. This tensile stress is performed on the sample at temperatures ranging from -150 ° C to +200 ° C, with a temperature variation of 3 ° C per minute.

The complex modulus E * = E '+ iE "of the tested polymer is then measured as a function of the temperature, from which the dynamic modules E', E" and the damping power are deduced: tg 8 = E "/ E ' .

Then the curve of the values of tg 8 is plotted as a function of the temperature; this curve has at least one peak. The glass transition temperature Tg of the polymer corresponds to the temperature at which the peak of this peak is located. When the curve has at least 2 peaks (in this case, the polymer has at least 2 Tg), the value of Tg of the tested polymer is taken as the temperature for which the curve has a peak of greater amplitude (ie ie, corresponding to the largest value of tg, in this case only the "majority" Tg is considered as the Tg value of the tested polymer). In the present invention, the transition temperature Tg1 corresponds to the "majority" Tg (in the meaning defined above) of the first film-forming polymer when the latter has at least 2 Tg; the glass transition temperature Tg2 corresponds to the "majority" Tg of the second film-forming polymer when the latter has at least 2 Tg. The first film-forming polymer and the second film-forming polymer may be chosen, independently of one another, from among the radical polymers, polycondensates and polymers of natural origin as defined above having the characteristics of glass transition temperature defined above. As the first film-forming polymer in aqueous dispersion, it is possible to use the aqueous polymer dispersions sold under the names "NeoRez R-989®" by the company DSM, "Joncryl 95" and "Joncryl® 8211" by the company BASF. As the second film-forming polymer in aqueous dispersion, it is possible to use, for example, the aqueous polymer dispersions sold under the names "Avalure® UR-405", "Avalure® UR-460" by the company NOVEON or "Acrilem IC89RT®" by the company ICAP, Neocryl A-45 by the company DSM.

The film-forming polymer of the aqueous dispersion "Avalure® UR-460" is a polyurethane obtained by the polycondensation of tetramethylene polyoxide, tetramethylxylylene diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate and dimethylol propionic acid.

According to a very particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the combination of styrene / acrylate polymer dispersion such as the dispersion marketed under the reference "Joncryl 8211e" by BASF and of acrylic polymer dispersion such as the dispersion marketed under the reference "Neocryl A45®" by DSM. According to another preferred embodiment of this particular embodiment of point 3 / above of the invention, a dispersion of acrylic polymer such as the dispersion marketed under the reference "Joncryl 95" is used as the first film-forming polymer in aqueous dispersion. ® by BASF and as a second film-forming polymer an anionic polyurethane polymer dispersion marketed under the reference "Avalure UR405®" by DSM.

As aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymer, it is possible to use: acrylic dispersions sold under the names "Acronal DS-6250®" by the company BASF, "Neocryl A-45®" Neocryl XK-90®, "Neocryl A-1070® "," Neocryl A-1090® "," Neocryl BT-62® "," Neocryl A-1079® "and" Neocryl A-523® "by DSM," Joncryl 95® "," Joncryl 8211® "by BASF, "Daitosol 5000 AD®" or "Daitosol 5000 SJ" by the company DAITO KASEY KOGYO; "Syntran 5760 CG" by the company Interpolymer, - the aqueous polyurethane dispersions sold under the names "Neorez R-981®" and "Neorez R-974®" by the company DSM, the "Avalure UR-405®", " Avalure UR-410® "," Avalure UR-425® "," Avalure UR-450®, "Sancure 875®", "Avalure UR 445®", "Avalure UR 450®" by NOVEON, "Impranil 85® By the company BAYER, "Baycusan C1004®" by the company BAYER MATERIAL SCIENCE, - sulfopolyesters sold under the brand name "Eastman AQ®" by the company Eastman Chemical Products, - vinyl dispersions such as "Mexomer PAM" aqueous dispersions of polyvinyl acetate such as "Vinybran®" from Nisshin Chemical or those sold by UNION CARBIDE, aqueous dispersions of terpolymer vinyl pyrrolidone, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide and lauryldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium chloride that the "Styleze VV®" of ISP, polyurethane / polyacrylic aqueous polymer dispersions such as those sold under the references "Hybridur®" by the company AIR PRODUCTS or "Duromer®" by NATIONAL STARCH, - dispersions of core-shell type particles such as those sold by Arkema under the reference "Kynar e" (core: fluorinated - bark: acrylic) or those described in US 5 188 899 (core: silica - bark: silicone) and their mixtures.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous dispersion of particles chosen from aqueous dispersions of acrylic-derived and / or derivative-derived film-forming polymer (s), in particular styrene-acrylic and derivatives thereof, and dispersions aqueous polymer (s) (s) polyurethane (s), in particular polyester-polyurethane, and their derivatives, and their (s) mixture. According to an advantageous embodiment, the total content of hard wax (es) and the total content of particles of film-forming polymer (s) are such that the weight ratio of the wax (es) lasts (s) on the particles of polymer (s) film-forming (s) is greater than or equal to 1/2, better 2/3. Preferably this ratio is included between 1/2 and 2, more preferably between 2/3 and 3/2. According to an advantageous embodiment, the total content of hard wax (es) and the total content of particles of film-forming polymer (s), both preferably present in the form of particles in aqueous dispersion, with ( the film-forming polymer (s) chosen from aqueous dispersions of acrylic and derivative film-forming polymer (s), in particular styrene-acrylic polymers and derivatives, and aqueous dispersions of polyester-polyurethane hybrid polymer (s), and their mixture, are such that the weight ratio of the particles of wax (es) hard (s) on said particles of polymer (s) film-forming (s), is greater than or equal to 1/2, better to 2 / 3. Preferably this ratio is included between 1/2 and 2, more preferably between 2/3 and 3/2. Water-soluble film-forming polymer The compositions according to the present invention comprise at least one water-soluble film-forming polymer. Preferably, a composition according to the invention is free of water-soluble film-forming polymer. However, the total dry matter content of "water-soluble film-forming polymer (s)" may range from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.5 to 8% and better still from 1 to 5% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Examples of water-soluble film-forming polymers that may be mentioned include: proteins, such as proteins of vegetable origin, such as wheat or soy proteins; proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and keratin sulfonates; cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, as well as the quaternized derivatives of cellulose; acrylic polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylates or polymethacrylates; vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methylvinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol; anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers, gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum, acacia gum; alginates and carrageenans; glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives; deoxyribonucleic acid; - Muccopolysaccharides such as chondroitin sulfate, and mixtures thereof.

Hydrophilic Gelling Gelling Agents The compositions according to the present invention may also contain at least one hydrophilic or hydrodoluble gelling agent, they may be chosen from: homo or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and their esters and in particular the products sold under the names VERSICOL F® or VERSICOL K® by ALLIED COLLOID, UTRAHOLD 8® by CIBA-GEIGY, polyacrylic acids of SYNTHALEN K type, - copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold in the form of of their sodium salt under the names RETEN® by the company HERCULES, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name HYDAGEN F® by the company HENKEL, the polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers of type 5 PEMULEN, - AMPS (polyacrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid partially neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked) marketed by the company CLARIANT, - AMPS / acrylamide copolymers SEPIGEL® type or SIMULGEL® 10 marketed by the company SEPPIC, and - polyoxyethylenated AMPS / alkyl methacrylate copolymers (crosslinked or not), and mixtures thereof. associative polymers and in particular associative polyurethanes such as the polymer C16-0E120-C16 from ELEMENTIS (marketed under the name RHEOLATE FX1100, urethane functional molecule and weight average molecular weight of 1300), EO being a unit oxyethylenated, urea-functional Rheolate 205 sold by Rheox or else Rheolate 208 or 204 (these polymers being sold in pure form) or DVV 1206B from RHOM & HAAS with C20 alkyl chain and urethane bond, sold at 20% active ingredient in water. It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these associative polyurethanes, especially in water or in an aqueous-alcoholic medium. By way of example, such polymers include, RHEOLATE fx1010, RHEOLATE FX1035 and RHEOLATE 1070, Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by the company ELEMENTIS. It is also possible to use the product DVV 1206F and DVV 1206J, as well as Acrysol RM 184 or Acrysol 44 from RHOM & HAAS or Borchigel LVV 44 from BORCH ERS, and mixtures thereof. . Some water-soluble film-forming polymers also act as water-soluble gelling agents. The hydrophilic gelling agents may be present in the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 5% and better still from 0. 5 to 2% by weight. A composition according to the invention advantageously comprises one of the abovementioned gelling agents, preferably chosen from AMPS (partially neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked polyacrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid), AMPS / acrylamide copolymers, and their mixture. Lipophilic Gelling Agents A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one lipophilic or liposoluble gelling agent. The gelling agent (s) that may be used may be organic or inorganic, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents. As mineral lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of clays, modified clays, such as Bentone 38 VCG by the company ELEMENTIS, and fumed silica optionally treated with hydrophobic surface. Polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or fully crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes. , of three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names KSG6®, KSG16® and KSG18® by the company SHIN-ETSU, Trefil E-505C® and Trefil E-506C® by the company DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR -CYC®, SR DMF10®, SR-DC556®, SR 5CYC gel®, SR DMF 10 gel® and SR DC 556 gel® by GRANT INDUSTRIES, SF 1204® and JK 113® by the company General Electric ; ethylcellulose such as that sold under the name Ethocel® by Dow Chemical; polycondensates of polyamide type resulting from the condensation between (a) at least one acid selected from dicarboxylic acids comprising at least 32 carbon atoms such as dimeric fatty acids and (13) an alkylene diamine and in particular ethylene diamine, wherein the polyamide polymer comprises at least one terminal carboxylic acid group esterified or amidated with at least one monohydric alcohol or a monoamine comprising from 12 to 30 linear and saturated carbon atoms, and in particular ethylene diamine / dilinoleate copolymers stearyl such as that marketed under the name Uniclear 100 VG® by ARIZONA CHEMICAL; silicone polyamines of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in documents US-A-5 874 069, US-A-5 919 441, US-A-6,051,216 and US-A-5,981,680, for example those sold under the reference Dow Corning 2- 8179 and Dow Corning 2-8178 Gellant by the company Dow Corning. The "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" type block copolymers of the polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene type, such as those sold under the name Luvitol HSB® by the company BASF, of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylenepropylene) type, such as those marketed under the name Kraton® by Shell Chemical Co. or alternatively from the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type, mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those marketed by the company PENRECO under the name Versagel® such as, for example, the mixture of butylene / ethylene / styrene triblock copolymer and ethylene / propylene / styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960). The compositions according to the invention may also comprise, as lipophilic gelling agent, a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer. Other lipophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned include organogelators. A composition according to the invention is preferably free of lipophilic gelling agent. Dyestuffs The compositions in accordance with the invention comprise at least one dyestuff. This (or these) dyestuff (s) is (or are) preferably chosen from pulverulent materials, liposoluble dyes, water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one pulverulent dyestuff. The pulverulent dyestuffs may be chosen from pigments and nacres, preferably from pigments. The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or uncoated. Mention may be made, among mineral pigments, of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, oxides of zirconium, zinc or cerium, and also oxides of iron, titanium or chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.

The nacres may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

Fat-soluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, D & C Red 17, D & C Green 6, 8-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D & C Yellow 11, D & C Violet 2, D & C Orange 5, the yellow quinoline, the annatto. Preferably, the pigments contained in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from metal oxides. These dyestuffs may be present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 3 to 22% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the dye (s) is (are) chosen from one or more metal oxide (s) present (s) at a content greater than or equal to 2% by weight relative to total weight of the composition, advantageously between 3 and 22% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Charges The compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler. The fillers may be selected from those well known to those skilled in the art and commonly used in cosmetic compositions. The fillers can be mineral or organic, lamellar or spherical. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders such as Nylon® sold under the name Orgasol® by Atochem, poly-8-alanine and polyethylene, and tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders. such as Teflon®, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, expanded polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as those sold under the name Expancel® by Nobel Industrie, acrylic powders such as those sold under the name Polytrap® by the company Dow Corning, polymethyl methacrylate particles and silicone resin microspheres (Toshiba's Tospearls®, for example), precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate and magnesium hydro-carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from MAPRECOS), glass or ceramic microcapsules metallic amines derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate. The fillers can represent from 0.1 to 15%, in particular from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic active ingredients The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one cosmetic active agent. As cosmetic active agents that can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may in particular be made of antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, emollients, coalescence agents, moisturizers, vitamins and especially solar filters. , and their mixtures.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their amount so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially impaired by the addition envisaged. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is not rinsed.

Advantageously, the composition is a makeup composition and in particular a mascara. Oil or organic solvent The compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one oil or organic solvent. The compositions according to the invention may in particular comprise at least one oil chosen from at least one non-volatile oil, at least one volatile oil, and their mixture.

Non-volatile oil By "oil" is meant a liquid fatty substance at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. "Non-volatile oil" means an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg / cm 2 / min. To measure this evaporation rate is introduced into a crystallizer, with a diameter of 7 cm, placed on a scale located in a large chamber of about 0.3 m 3 regulated in temperature, at a temperature of 25 ° C., and in hygrometry, at a relative humidity of 50%, 15 g of oil or oil mixture to be tested. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring, providing ventilation by a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 revolutions per minute) arranged in a vertical position above the crystallizer containing said oil or said mixture, the blades being directed to the crystallizer and at a distance of 20cm from the bottom of the crystallizer. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of evaporated oil per unit area (cm2) and per unit of time (minute). Said at least one non-volatile oil may be selected from hydrocarbon oils and silicone oils, and mixtures thereof, preferably from hydrocarbon oils. The non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that are suitable for the present invention may in particular be chosen from: hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths various from 04 to 028, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, palm, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, pumpkin, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passiflora, muscat rose; or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Sasol; synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; - linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin other than the polymers according to the invention, such as petroleum jelly, polybutenes, polydecenes, squalane, and mixtures thereof; synthetic esters, such as oils of formula R1000R2 in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, especially a branched hydrocarbon chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms at provided that R 1 + R 2 is k 10, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, 0-12 alcohol alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearate isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxyl esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters - branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol; higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof.

The nonvolatile silicone oils that are suitable for the present invention may in particular be chosen from: the non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition in accordance with the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl groups or alkoxy, pendant and / or silicone chain end, groups each having 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.

A composition according to the invention optionally comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol whose fatty acids may have chain lengths varied from 04 to 028. , especially palm oil and hydrogenated jojoba.

A composition according to the invention is preferably free of non-volatile oil (s) silicone (s). A composition according to the invention is preferably free of non-volatile oil. However, the total content of non-volatile oil (s) in a composition according to the invention may range from 0.01 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 8% by weight, and preferably from 0.25 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 5% by weight of non-volatile oil (s) relative to the total weight of the composition. Volatile oil The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile oil. By "volatile oil" is meant an oil (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg / cm 2 / min, inclusive. This volatile oil can be hydrocarbon-based. The volatile hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having from 7 to 16 carbon atoms. The composition according to the invention may contain one or more volatile branched alkane (s). By "one or more branched alkane (s) volatile (s)" is meant indifferently "one or more volatile branched alkane (s) oil (s)". As hydrocarbon-based volatile oil having from 7 to 16 carbon atoms, mention may be made in particular of branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes such as iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins) at C 8 -C 16, isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the tradenames of Isopars or permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the hydrocarbonaceous volatile oil having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms is chosen from isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof, and is especially isododecane. The composition according to the invention may contain one or more volatile linear alkane (s). By "one or more volatile linear alkane (s)" is meant indifferently "one or more volatile linear alkane (s) oil (s)". A volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention is liquid at ambient temperature (about 25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The term "volatile linear alkane" that is suitable for the invention means a linear, cosmetic alkane capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 ° C.). mm Hg, that is to say 101 325 Pa), liquid at room temperature, especially having an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 15 mg / cm 2 / min, at room temperature (25 ° C.) and pressure Atmospheric (760 mm Hg). Linear alkanes, preferably of plant origin, comprising from 7 to 15 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 14 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms. By way of example of a linear alkane suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of Cognis VVO 2007/068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (distinct alkane mixtures and differing from at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil. Examples of linear alkanes suitable for the invention include n-heptane (07), n-octane (08), n-nonane (09), n-decane (010) , n-undecane (C11), ndodecane (012), n-tridecane (013), n-tetradecane (014), pentadecane (015), and mixtures thereof, and in particular the mixture of n- undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (013) described in Example 1 of Application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (O12) and n-tetradecane (O14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures. The linear alkane may be used alone or in a mixture of at least two different alkanes and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 1, and in particular a mixture of at least two linear alkanes containing from 10 to 14 distinct carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 2, and in particular a mixture of linear volatile alkanes Cl 1/013 or a mixture of linear alkanes 012/014, in particular a mixture n-undecane / n-tridecane (such a mixture can be obtained according to Example 1 or Example 2 of VVO 2008/155059). Alternatively or additionally, the composition produced may comprise at least one volatile silicone oil or solvent compatible with a cosmetic use. By silicone oil is meant an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si-O groups. According to one embodiment, said composition comprises less than 10% by weight of non-volatile silicone oil (s), relative to the total weight of the composition, better still less than 5% by weight, or even is free from silicone oil. As silicone volatile oil, mention may be made of cyclic polysiloxanes, linear polysiloxanes and mixtures thereof. Volatile linear polysiloxanes that may be mentioned include hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane and hexadecamethylheptasiloxane. Cyclic volatile polysiloxanes that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane. Alternatively or additionally, the composition produced may comprise at least one volatile fluorinated oil.

By fluorinated oil is meant an oil containing at least one fluorine atom. As fluorinated volatile oil, there may be mentioned nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof. A composition according to the invention is preferably free of non-volatile oil. However, at least one volatile oil may be present in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight. In particular, the volatile oil may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 5% by weight of volatile oil (s) relative to the total weight of the composition. ASSEMBLY A keratin fiber coating assembly adapted to the invention may comprise an applicator configured to apply said cosmetic composition for coating keratinous fibers, and if necessary a conditioning device adapted to receive said composition.

Applicator The applicator may comprise means for smoothing and / or separating the keratin fibers, such as eyelashes or eyebrows, especially in the form of teeth, bristles or other reliefs. The applicator is arranged to apply the composition to the eyelashes or the eyebrows, and may comprise for example a brush or a comb. The applicator can still be used for makeup finishing, on a region of eyelashes or eyebrows made up or loaded with the composition. The brush may comprise a twisted core and bristles caught between the turns of the core, or be carried out otherwise. The comb is for example made in one piece by molding plastic material. In some exemplary embodiments, the applicator element is mounted at the end of a rod, which may be flexible, which may contribute to improving comfort at the application. Packaging device The packaging device may comprise a container intended to house the coating composition of the keratinous fibers. This composition can then be taken from the container by immersing the applicator therein. This applicator may be integral with a closure element of the container. This closure element may form a gripping member of the applicator. This gripping member may form a cap to removably mount on said container by any suitable means such as screwing, latching, fitting or other. Such a container can thus reversibly accommodate said applicator. This container may optionally be equipped with a wiper adapted to rid a surplus of product taken by the applicator. A process for applying the composition according to the invention to the eyelashes or the eyebrows may also comprise the following steps: forming a deposit of the cosmetic composition on the eyelashes or the eyebrows, leaving the deposit on the eyelashes or the eyebrows the deposit can dry. It should be noted that according to another embodiment the applicator can form a product container. In such a case a container may for example be provided in the gripping member and an internal channel may internally connect the gripping member to the relief elements application. Finally, it should be noted that the packaging and application assembly can be in the form of a kit, the applicator and the packaging device can be housed separately under the same packaging article. The preceding and following examples are given by way of illustration of the present invention, and can not limit the scope thereof. EXAMPLE A mascara composition in accordance with the invention is described below: Ingredients Composition with percentage contents according to the invention Phase A CARNAUBA SP SPRAY SP 63 by STRAHL & PITSCH 12 POLYMETHYLENE WAX (Cirebelle 108 of 5 Cirebelle) MONO- GLYCERYLE STEARATE 4 OXYETHYLENE (30 0E) (EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT TAGAT S) Phase B MONO-GLYCERYL STEARATE (TEIJIN M EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT Pellets) 8 STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (AMINOSOFT HS11PF FROM AJINOMOTO) 8 Pigments 8 Water 33 Phase C Water Qsp 100 Phase D Preservatives Qs These compositions were prepared as follows: I. Preparation of phase A All the raw materials used are weighed carefully using a scale (precision 0.01g). In a 500mL double jacketed skillet with hot oil circulation to control the temperature, the different waxes are melted. It is heated to about 95-98 ° C. Once the melted waxes are homogenized by stirring at the Moritz, it is a stator rotor type stirring: it consists of a fixed part in which a second moving part rotates at a variable speed, this apparatus is used for realize the emulsions because it allows a very important shear. When the waxes are melted and homogenized, the MONO-5 STEARATE GLYCERYL OXYETHYLENE (30 OE) is then added, and the mixture is emulsified for 10 minutes. ii. Preparation of phase B The ingredients are weighed, the monoglyceryl stearate and stearoyl glutamate are melted at 80 ° C. according to the invention, the preheated water is then added to an electric kettle at 95.degree. the pigments. iii. Phase B to Phase A mixture Phase A is poured into phase B and emulsified for 5 minutes at 95 ° C. under Moritz. Iv. Preparation of Phase C The water is poured into a bath thermostated at 5 ° C. v. Phase A + B Mix with Phase C Phase A + B (hot emulsion at 95 ° C.) is poured into the thermostated bath containing phase C. vi. Addition Phase D Phase D is poured into the mixture of phase A + B + C when the temperature of the mixture is less than or equal to 45 ° C. vii. End of formulation The mascara thus obtained is transferred into an enclosed jar to prevent drying in contact with the air, it is then necessary to wait 24 hours to check the homogeneity of the formula and the good dispersion of the pigments. It should be noted that according to an advantageous embodiment, at least one film-forming polymer in aqueous dispersion can be added to the preparation, such as a 40% AQUEOUS AQUEOUS ACRYLIC / STYRENE / ACRYLIC COPOLYMER, in a WATER / BUTYLENE GLYCOL / SODIUM LAURYL MIXTURE. ETHER SULFATE PROTEGE 25 (SYNTRAN 5760 CG from INTERPOLYMER). To do this, this polymer can be added in an aqueous dispersion in phase C (ie the bath thermostated at 5 ° C.). It should be noted that other mascara formulas can be made taking into consideration the following preparation elements. In particular, it is recommended: in a first phase to incorporate in the compounds to be subjected to heating the thickening compounds (wax (es) and, if appropriate, compounds selected for example from gelling agents, film-forming polymers in particular soluble, filler, pasty fatty substances ...), water, the (the) system (s) emulsifier, since the water content used is greater than 25% by weight relative to the total weight of this first phase, preferably 30% by weight, or even 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of this first phase, and that the total content of wax (es) lasts (s), and possibly wax (s) ), and the total content of the emulsifying system (s) are such that the weight ratio of the wax (es) plus the additional wax (es) to the (the) system (s) emulsifier, is less than or equal to 1.75, preferably less than or equal to 1.5, in particular understood between 1/3 and 1.25, the (the) matter (s) coloring (s) knowing that the order of addition of the compounds is indifferent, it being understood, however, that it is preferable that the water is not present first to avoid any early evaporation, the whole is emulsified with stirring at the temperature above the melting point of the wax (es) having the maximum melting temperature, in a second phase of disposing an aqueous phase optionally comprising or optionally formed by an aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer particles in a vessel where the temperature is controlled inclusively between 0 and 45 ° C (although a temperature of 5 ° C is exemplified above it is understood that any temperature inclusive between 0 and 45 ° C, more preferably between 0 and 20 ° C will lead to a composition prepared according to the process according to the invention), - the preparation order of the pr and the second phase being indifferent, - pour the first phase at a temperature above the maximum melting point of the wax (es), in the temperature-controlled container between 0 and 45 ° C, and preferably between 0 and 45 ° C, and 20 ° C containing the second phase, stirring until the temperature of the mixture stabilizes at the controlled temperature; when a conservative system is used, it may be advantageous to add this conservative system once the mixture of the first phase and of the second phase has been carried out, and preferably once the mixture decreases in temperature, advantageously once the mixture reached the controlled temperature between 0 and 45 ° C, and preferably between 0 and 20 ° C. It is important to note that certain compounds entering this so-called "first phase" can be prepared independently but then integrated hot with the wax (es). For example, the pigment (s) may be prepared separately from the wax (es) but may be added later with the wax (es) while hot ("hot") meaning temperature greater than or equal to the melting point of the wax (es) allowing all the waxes to be in the molten state). Thus, this "first phase" comprises all the compounds which from the beginning, or during a subsequent stage, undergo a hot emulsion operation with the wax (es), and this prior to mixing with the phase cold aqueous, and optionally with the aqueous dispersion of polymer (s) film-forming (s) cold ("cold" meaning that the aqueous phase or the aqueous dispersion is at a temperature, optionally controlled, between 0 and 45 ° C) . This embodiment makes it possible surprisingly and unexpectedly to obtain, in particular in the presence of a large solids content, for example greater than 45%, compositions with a smooth, shiny appearance and an intense color. easy application, comfortable, but nevertheless endowed with the desired volume effect by the incorporation of a high content of wax (es), and a good resistance to water due to the presence of a high content of particles of polymer (s) film-forming (s). It should be noted that a composition prepared by the manufacturing method as described may have distinct and advantageous structural and functional characteristics relative to a conventional manufacturing process of preparing a first phase of wax (es) melted at 95 ° C. add the water previously heated to 90-92 ° C in the waxes at 95 ° C and then cool, usually in the open air, to room temperature. Indeed, in the process according to the invention, the phase containing in particular the waxes is quenched brutally in a cold aqueous phase conferring advantageous dispersion properties of waxes and cosmetics. Thus, according to the present invention, the aqueous dispersion of ) film-forming polymer (s) to emulsify the hard wax (es) is unexpected. 2 / Protocols and Results The prepared composition is observed at the bar and under the microscope, and then tested on a test piece of virgin eyelashes, by application of these compositions using a brush.

The composition according to the invention has, at the naked eye and under the microscope, a fine emulsion with a wax grain (s) which is fine and well distributed (homogeneous). The compositions according to the invention are pleasant to the application, they have a fluid texture (viscosity at 25 ° C. of 41 Pa.s measured by the Rheomat RM1000 apparatus), the deposit is built layer after layer, the composition sheath the eyelashes, the makeup is regular, the eyelashes fringe well deployed. In addition, the composition obtained is of good gloss. Moreover, the pigments are well dispersed, and the composition has an intense black. In addition, these compositions are stable at 4 and 45 ° C for two months. It should be noted that the protocols for measuring the brightness and the intensity of the black to be used in the context of the present invention are described in the patent application FR2968978 page 44 line 1 to 21. It is understood that in Within the scope of the present invention, the weight percentages given for a compound or a family of compounds are always expressed as the dry weight of the compound in question. Throughout the application, the wording "comprising a" or "comprising a" means "comprising at least one" or "comprising at least" one unless the contrary is specified.

Claims (21)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers of the emulsion type, comprising: an aqueous phase, particles comprising at least one hard wax, preferably present in the form of at least one aqueous dispersion of hard wax particles (s), the hard wax (es) having a melting temperature greater than or equal to 60 ° C, the hard wax (es) being present at a total content greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, - at least one emulsifying system capable of dispersing at least the hard wax (es), comprising at least one valuable nonionic surfactant HLB at 25 ° C of less than 8 selected from at least one C 12 -C 20 fatty acid ester and a glycerol group, and at least one anionic surfactant selected from at least one acyl glutamic acid having at least one acyl chain C12-C22 and its salts, preferably of HLB value at 25 ° C greater than or equal to 8. 2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the nonionic surfactant (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C of less than 8 selected from at least one C 12 -C 20 fatty acid ester and from a glycerol group is glyceryl monostearate. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the anionic surfactant (s) chosen from acyl glutamic acid (s) (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid), their salts (glutamates). and mixtures thereof is (are) preferably chosen from lauroyl glutamic acid, myristoyl glutamic acid, palmitoyl glutamic acid, stearoyl glutamic acid, behenoyl glutamic acid, olivoyl glutamic acid, cocoyl glutamic acid and inorganic salts, organic salts, and their ( s) mixture (s). 4. Composition according to claim 1, 2 or 3, wherein the (the) surfactant (s) nonionic (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C of less than 8, selected from at least one acid ester C12-C20 fatty acids and a glycerol group, preferably glyceryl monostearate, are present at a content greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. preferably between 8 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the anionic surfactant (s), preferably of HLB value at 25 ° C greater than or equal to 8, preferably greater than or equal to 10. , is (are) chosen from acyl glutamic acids, and their salts, is (are) present at a content greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably comprised between 8 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 10 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the non-ionic surfactant (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C. of less than 8, chosen from at least one C 12 fatty acid ester. -C20 and a glycerol group, preferably glyceryl monostearate, and the anionic surfactant (s) chosen from acyl glutamic acids, and their salts, are present. at a total content greater than or equal to 10%, more preferably 12%, in particular between 15 and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the nonionic surfactant (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C. of less than 8, chosen from at least one fatty acid ester in at least one embodiment. C12-C20 and a glycerol group, preferably glyceryl monostearate, and the anionic surfactant (s), selected from acyl glutamic acids, and their salts, are present at a content respective total amount such that the weight ratio of the nonionic surfactant (s) of HLB value at 25 ° C to less than 8 on the nonionic surfactant (s) of HLB value ° C greater than or equal to 8 ranges from 1/5 to 5, preferably from 1/3 to 3, preferably from 2/3 to 3/2. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims or 3, wherein the aqueous phase represents from 30 to 80% by weight, preferably from 40 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the hard wax particles are not introduced into the preparation of the composition in the form of an aqueous micro-dispersion of wax (es). hard (es) pre-prepared. 2,996,763 57 10.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a solids content greater than or equal to 42%, preferably 45%, more preferably 48%. 5 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a total content of particles of hard wax (es), preferably present in the form of aqueous dispersion (s), greater than or equal to 12% by weight. preferably at 15% by weight, preferably at 18% by weight, more preferably at 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, for example between 16 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a total content of particles of hard wax (es), preferably present in the form of aqueous dispersion (s), representing at least 80% by weight. preferably at least 90% by weight, more preferably 100% by weight, relative to the total weight of wax (es). 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of hard wax (es) and optionally of additional wax (es) and the total content of emulsifying system (s). ) are such that the weight ratio of the wax (es) lasts plus the additional wax (es) to the emulsifying system (s) conforming to the invention is less than or equal to 1.75, preferably strictly less than 1.5, in particular between 1/3 and 1.25. 25 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one aqueous dispersion of particles of at least one film-forming polymer, the film-forming polymer (s) preferably being present at a certain level. in dry matter greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. 15. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the particles of polymer (s) film-forming (s) are introduced into the preparation of the composition as an aqueous dispersion of polymer (s) film-forming (s) pre-prepared. 16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one dyestuff chosen from one or more pulverulent material (s), preferably metal oxides, and in particular iron oxides. 17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 5 to 50 Pa.s. 18. A process for coating keratinous fibers, in particular eyelash makeup, comprising a step of applying a cosmetic composition for coating keratinous fibers according to any one of the preceding claims. 19. Process for preparing a cosmetic composition for coating keratinous fibers as defined in claims 1 to 17 consisting of the following steps: in a first phase, heating the hard wax (es), and optionally the additional wax (es), at a temperature above its (their) melting point so as to melt the wax (es), add at least one emulsifying system comprising at least one nonionic surfactant of HLB value at 25 ° C of less than 8 selected from at least one C 12 -C 20 fatty acid ester and a glycerol group, and at least one anionic surfactant selected from at least one acyl glutamic acid having at least one C12-C22 acyl chain and its salts, add water, since the water content used is greater than 25% by weight relative to the total weight of this first phase and the total content of wax (s) lasts and possibly the additional wax (es) and the total content of the emulsifying system (s) is such that the weight ratio of the wax (es) plus the additional wax (es) / system (s) ) emulsifier is less than or equal to 1.75, preferably strictly less than 1.5, in particular between 1/3 and 1.25, add the dyestuffs, optionally add any other compound having a thickening nature such as gums, fillers, pasty fatty substances, film-forming polymers water-soluble, the order of addition being indifferent, however, it being understood that it is preferable that the water is not present first to avoid any early evaporation, emulsify the whole with stirring at a temperature above the melting point of the ( wax), in a second phase, providing an aqueous phase, optionally comprising, or optionally being formed by an aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer particles, in a container where the temperature is t included, preferably controlled between 0 and 45 ° C, and preferably between 0 and 20 ° C, the order of preparation of the first phase and the second phase being indifferent, - put in the presence of the first and the second phase pouring the first phase still at a temperature above the melting point of the wax (es) into the container containing the second phase having a temperature of preferably between 0 and 45 ° C, and preferably between 0 and 45 ° C, 20 ° C, stirring until the temperature of the mixture stabilizes at the temperature, preferably regulated between 0 and 45 ° C, and preferably between 0 and 20 ° C, preferentially add a conservative system once the temperature of the mixture of the first phase with the second phase stabilized at the temperature, preferably controlled between 0 and 45 ° C, and preferably between 0 and 20 ° C. 20. Use of a preparation method according to claim 19, to obtain makeup compositions, in particular mascara, preferably black, smooth, shiny and / or, preferably, and of intense color. 21. Cosmetic composition for coating keratinous fibers according to any one of claims 1 to 17, obtained by the preparation method according to claim 19.