FR2873581A1 - Cosmetic composition, useful for e.g make-up or non-therapeutic treatment of keratinous fibers, comprises two volatile oils (linear volatile alkyltrisiloxane oil) in a medium - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition (A) comprises at least two volatile oils (I) (linear volatile alkyltrisiloxane oil) (II) in a medium. Cosmetic composition (A) comprises at least two volatile oils (I) (linear volatile alkyltrisiloxane oil (II) of formula (CH3)3-SiO-Si(CH3)(R)-O-Si(CH3)3)) in a medium, where the mixture of (I) has an evaporation profile in which the mass of the evaporated oil is 12.5-370 mg/cm2> at 30 minutes). R : 2-4C alkyl (optionally substituted by F or Cl).

Description

CH

SiO-Si O Si (CH)

R

  The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least two volatile oils, at least one of which is a volatile alkyltrisiloxane linear oil.

  The subject of the invention is also a process for the non-therapeutic makeup or care of human keratin materials comprising the application of the composition to keratin materials.

  Low molecular weight siloxanes are known for their use as volatile compounds in cosmetic compositions. As such, cyclic silicone oils are particularly used. They are most often designated D4 (also called octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane), D5 (decamethylcyclopentasiloxane) and D6 (dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane). They allow in particular to obtain a pleasant touch in contact with the skin.

  In the context of the formulation of cosmetic compositions, it would be advantageous to have substitutes for these cyclic silicone oils or else other non-silicone volatile oils such as isododecane, capable of exhibiting the same type of behavior, especially in terms of of volatility.

  WO 03/042221 describes the use of certain volatile linear alkylsiloxanes as volatile compounds in a cosmetic composition.

  US 6,350,440 discloses a mixture of linear organosiloxanes having a particular evaporation profile.

  However, none of these documents mentions cosmetic compositions comprising at least two volatile oils, at least one of which is a volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil having a particular evaporation profile.

  The inventors have discovered that such a composition makes it possible to obtain an interesting range of evaporation profile while maintaining a good compatibility of this linear alkyltrisiloxane linear oil with the ingredients usually used in cosmetics.

  More specifically, the subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least two volatile oils, at least one of which is a volatile alkyltrisiloxane linear oil of general formula (I): 2 CH (CH) SiO Si RO Si (CH) (1) wherein R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more fluorine or chlorine atoms, the mixture of said volatile oils having a profile of evaporation such that the mass of volatile oil evaporated after 30 minutes ranges from 12.5 to 370 mg / cm 2.

  The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for making up or non-therapeutic treatment of keratin materials, comprising applying to the keratin materials a composition as defined above.

  The invention finally relates to the use of a mixture of volatile oils as defined above for the preparation of a cosmetic composition.

  In the context of the substitution of the group R, "one or more" preferably means "one to four", and even more preferably "one to two".

  The term "volatile oil" means an oil (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or keratin fiber, and more generally with the keratin material, in less than one hour, at room temperature. and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10- 3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 8000 Pa (0.01 to 60 mm). of Hg).

  The expression "at least one" (or "at least one") means one or more individual compounds as well as mixtures thereof. Thus, the expression "linear alkyltrisiloxane linear oil of general formula (I)" covers the case where it is a mixture of several oils of formula (I).

  In the context of the present invention, "keratin materials" includes skin, lips, nails, hair, eyelashes and eyebrows and "keratinous fibers" includes hair, eyelashes and eyebrows.

  The composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium compatible with the keratin materials as defined above.

  According to the present invention, the evaporation profile of the volatile fatty phase of the composition is such that the mass of volatile oil evaporated after 30 minutes ranges from 12.5 to 370 mg / cm 2. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the mass of volatile oil evaporated after 30 minutes ranges from 15 to 70 mg / cm 2, preferably from 16 to 29.5 mg / cm 2 and better still from 16 to 24. 6 mg / cm2.

  The rate of evaporation of the oil is measured according to the protocol described below.

  Among the oils of general formula (I), mention may be made of: 3-butyl 1,1,1,5,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, 3-propyl 1,1,1,3,5,5 5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, 3-ethyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

  corresponding to the oils of formula (I) for which R is respectively a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group.

  According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of the volatile oils of the composition of the invention comprises several linear alkyltrisiloxane linear oils of formula (I), preferably two of them, and in particular a mixture of 3 butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5heptamethyl trisiloxane and 3-ethyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane.

  According to yet another embodiment of the invention, the mixture of the volatile oils consists of several volatile alkyltrisiloxane linear oils of formula (I), preferably of two of them, and in particular of a mixture of butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane and 3-ethyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane. In other words, according to this particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is free from any volatile oil which does not conform to the formula (I), that is to say comprises less than 0.1% by weight of volatile oil which does not comply with formula (I) relative to the total weight of the composition.

  In the case of a mixture of 3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane and 3-ethyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane free of any oil According to formula (I), the evaporation profile is such that the volatile oil mass evaporated after 30 minutes ranges from 8 to 25 mg / cm 2.

  The linear alkyltrisiloxane linear oil of formula (I) may be prepared according to known methods for synthesizing silicone compounds.

  The oil of formula (I) for which R is an ethyl group is sold especially under the name Baysilone TP 3886 and the oil for which R is a butyl group is sold, for example, under the name Baysilone TP 3887 by the company GE Bayer Silicones. .

  According to the invention, the content of volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil (s) of general formula (I) ranges from 0.1 to 80% by weight, preferably from 1 to 65% by weight, and preferably from 1 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The subject of the invention is also a composition in which the mixture of volatile oils comprises a linear alkyltrisiloxane linear oil content of formula (I) ranging from 1 to 100% by weight, preferably from 10 to 95%, and even more preferably between 20 and 90% relative to the total weight of said mixture.

  According to another embodiment, the composition may comprise an alkyltrisiloxane linear oil of formula (I), as well as one or more volatile oils nonconform (s) of formula (I), especially in a weight ratio between the linear oil volatile alkyltrisiloxane of formula (I) and this or these volatile oil (s) not in accordance with formula (I) may vary from 0.01 to 99, preferably from 0.5 to 67, and even more preferably from 0.7 to 45.

VOLATILE OILS

  The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more volatile oil (s) which does not conform to formula (I).

  Among volatile oils which do not comply with formula (I), mention may be made of cyclic or non-cyclic silicone volatile oils, or non-silicone volatile oils, chosen in particular from hydrocarbon-based or fluorinated volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.

  According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition of the present invention is free of these volatile cyclic or non-cyclic silicone volatile oils which do not comply with the formula (I), that is to say comprise less than 0.1% by weight of these volatile silicone oils, cyclic or non-cyclic, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The composition may then comprise, as volatile oil nonconform to the formula (I), one or more volatile oil (s) non-silicone (s), hydrocarbon (s) or fluorinated (s).

  According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition is free of non-silicone volatile oils, that is to say comprises less than 0.1% by weight of these non-silicone volatile oils relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The composition may then comprise, as volatile oil nonconform formula (I), one or more volatile oil (s) silicone (s) cyclic (s) or non-cyclic (s).

  Among the "cyclic or non-cyclic silicone volatile oils", there may be mentioned those having a viscosity of 6 centistokes (6.10-6 m2 / s), and in particular having 3 to 6 silicon atoms, these silicones possibly comprising one or more groups. alkyl or alkoxy having 1 or 2 carbon atoms. In this category of volatile silicone oils that can be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4), decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5) and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D6), and mixtures thereof.

  The non-cyclic silicone volatile oils may also be chosen from linear or branched silicone volatile oils.

  The non-cyclic volatile silicone oil may be chosen from: - non-cyclic linear silicones of formula (II) different from volatile silicone oils of formula (I): R 3 SiO- (R 2 SiO) n-SiR 3 (II) in which R, identical or different, denotes: a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more fluorine atoms or by one or more hydroxyl groups, or - a hydroxyl group, one of the R radicals possibly being a phenyl group, n is an integer ranging from 0 to 8, preferably ranging from 2 to 6, and better still ranging from 3 to 5, the silicone compound of formula ( II) containing at most 18 carbon atoms. the branched silicones of formula (III) or (IV) below: R 3 SiO - [(R 3 SiO) RSiO] - (R 2 SiO) x SiR 3 (III) [R 3 SiO] 4 Si (IV) in which R, identical or different, denotes: saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more fluorine atoms or by one or more hydroxyl groups, or - a hydroxyl group, one of the radicals R possibly being a phenyl group, x is an integer ranging from 0 to 8, the silicone compound of formula (III) or (IV) containing at most 18 carbon atoms.

  Preferably, for the compounds of formulas (II), (III) and (IV), the ratio between the number of carbon atoms and the number of silicon atoms is between 2.25 and 4.33. Advantageously, the compounds of formulas (II), (III) or (IV) contain at most 17 carbon atoms, preferably at most 16 carbon atoms, and preferably at most 15 carbon atoms.

  The silicones of formulas (II) to (IV) may be prepared according to known methods for the synthesis of silicone compounds.

  Among the silicones of formula (II), mention may be made of: a) The following disiloxanes: hexamethyldisiloxane (surface tension = 15.9 mN / m), sold in particular under the name DC 200 FLUID 0.65 cst by the company DOW CORNING, 1,3-di-tert-butyl-1,1,3,3-tetramethyl disiloxane; 1,3dipropyl 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl disiloxane; heptyl pentamethyl disiloxane; 1,1,1-triethyl 3,3,3-trimethyl disiloxane; hexaethyl disiloxane; 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl-1,3-bis (2-methylpropyl) disiloxane; pentamethyl octyl disiloxane; 1,1,1-trimethyl-3,3,3-tris (1-methylethyl) disiloxane; 1-butyl 3-ethyl-1,1,3-trimethyl-3-propyl disiloxane; pentamethyl pentyl disiloxane; 1-butyl 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl-3- (1-methylethyl) disiloxane; 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl-1,3-bis (1-methylpropyl) disiloxane; 1,1,3-triethyl-1,3,3-tripropyl disiloxane; (3,3-dimethylbutyl) pentamethyl disiloxane; (3-methylbutyl) pentamethyl disiloxane; (3-methylpentyl) pentamethyl disiloxane; 1,1,1-triethyl 3,3-dimethyl-3-propyl disiloxane; 1- (1,1-dimethylethyl) 1,1,3,3,3-pentamethyl disiloxane; 1,1,1-trimethyl 3,3,3-tripropyl disiloxane; 1,3-dimethyl-1,1,3,3-tetrakis (1-methylethyl) disiloxane; 1,1-dibutyl 1,3,3,3-tetramethyl disiloxane; 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl-1,3-bis (1-methylethyl) disiloxane; 1,1,1,3-tetramethyl 3,3-bis (1-methylethyl) disiloxane; 1,1,1,3-tetramethyl 3,3-dipropyl disiloxane; 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl-1,3-bis (3-methylbutyl) disiloxane; butyl pentamethyl disiloxane; pentaethyl methyl disiloxane; 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl-1,3-dipentyl disiloxane; 1,3-dimethyl-1,1,3,3-tetrapropyl disiloxane; 1,1,1,3-tetraethyl 3,3-dimethyl disiloxane; 1,1,1-triethyl 3,3,3-tripropyl disiloxane; 1,3-dibutyl 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl disiloxane; hexyl pentamethyl disiloxane; b) the following trisiloxanes: octamethyltrisiloxane (surface tension = 17.4 mN / m), sold especially under the name DC 200 FLUID 1 cst by the company Dow Corning 3-pentyl 1,1,1,3, 5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane; 1-hexyl-1,1,3,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,3,5,5-heptamethyl-5-octyl trisiloxane; - 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl-3-octyl trisiloxane, especially sold under the name Silsoft 034 by the company OSI; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl-3-hexyltrisiloxane (surface tension = 20.5 mN / m), in particular sold under the name "DC 2-1731" by the company Dow Corning ; 1,1,3,3,5,5-hexamethyl 1,5-dipropyl trisiloxane; 3- (1-ethylbutyl) 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl-3- (1-methylpentyl) trisiloxane; 1,5-diethyl-1,1,3,3,5,5-hexamethyltrisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5heptamethyl-3- (1-methylpropyl) trisiloxane; 3- (1,1-dimethylethyl) 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane; 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3,3-bis (1-methylethyl) trisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,3,5,5-hexamethyl 1,5-bis (1-methylpropyl) trisiloxane; 1,5-bis (1,1-dimethylethyl) -1,1,3,3,5,5hexamethyltrisiloxane; 3- (3,3-dimethylbutyl) 1,1,1,3,5,5,5heptamethyltrisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl-3- (3-methylbutyl) trisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl-3- (3-methylpentyl) trisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl-3- (2-methylpropyl) trisiloxane; 1-butyl 1,1,3,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane; 3-isohexyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane; 1,3,5-triethyl-1,1,3,5,5-pentamethyltrisiloxane; 3-tert-pentyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane; 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl 3,3-dipropyl trisiloxane; 3,3-diethyl 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyltrisiloxane; 1,5-dibutyl 1,1,3,3,5,5-hexamethyltrisiloxane; 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexaethyl-3,3-dimethyltrisiloxane; 3,3-dibutyl 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyltrisiloxane; 3-heptyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane; 1-ethyl-1,1,3,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane; c) the following tetrasiloxanes: decamethyltetrasiloxane (surface tension = 18 mN / m), sold in particular under the name DC 200 Fluid 1.5 cSt by the company Dow Corning; 1,1,3,3,5,5,7,7-octamethyl 1,7-dipropyl tetrasiloxane; 1,1,1,3,3,5,7,7,7-nonamethyl 5- (1-methylethyl) tetrasiloxane 1-butyl 1,1,3,3,5,5,7,7,7- nonamethyl tetrasiloxane; 3,5-diethyl-1,1,1,3,5,7,7,7-octamethyl tetrasiloxane; 1,3,5,7-tetraethyl-1,1,3,5,7,7-hexamethyltetrasiloxane; 3,3,5,5-tetraethyl 1,1,1,7,7,7-hexamethyltetrasiloxane; 1,1,1,3,3,5,5,7,7-nonamethyl 7-phenyltetrasiloxane; 3,3-diethyl 1,1,1,5,5,7,7,7-octamethyl tetrasiloxane; 1,1,1,3,3,5,7,7,7-nonamethyl-5-phenyltetrasiloxane; d) the following pentasiloxanes: dodecamethylpentasiloxane (surface tension = 18.7 mNlm), sold in particular under the name DC 200 Fluid 2 cst by the company Dow Corning; 1,1,3,3,5,5,7,7,9,9-decamethyl-1,9-dipropyl pentasiloxane; 3,3,5,5,7,7-hexaethyl-1,1,1,9,9,9-hexamethylpentasiloxane; 1,1,1,3,3,5,7,7,9,9,9-undecamethyl-5-phenyl pentasiloxane; 1-butyl 1,1,3,3,5,5,7,7,9,9,9-undecamethylpentasiloxane; 3,3-diethyl-1,1,1,5,5,7,7,9,9,9-decamethylpentasiloxane; 1,3,5,7,9-pentaethyl-1,1,3,5,7,9,9-heptamethylpentasiloxane-3,5,7-triethyl-1,1,1,3,5,7, 9,9,9-nonamethylpentasiloxane; 1,1,1-triethyl 3,3,5,5,7,7,9,9,9-nonamethylpentasiloxane; e) the following hexasiloxanes: 1-butyl-1,1,3,3,5,5,7,7,9,9,11,11,11-tridecamethyl hexasiloxane; 3,5,7,9-tetraethyl 1,1,1,3,5,7,9,11,11,11-decamethyl hexasiloxane; tetradecamethyl hexasiloxane; hexadecamethylheptasiloxane; octadecamethyl octasiloxane.

  Among the silicones of formula (III), mention may be made of: a) the following tetrasiloxanes: 2- [3,3,3-trimethyl-1,1-bis [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] ethyl; f) g) 2873581 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3- (2-methylpropyl) 3 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] trisiloxane; 3- (1,1-dimethylethyl) 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] trisiloxane; 3-butyl 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] trisiloxane; 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3-propyl-3 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] trisiloxane; 3-ethyl-1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] trisiloxane; 1,1,1-triethyl 3,5,5,5-tetramethyl-3- (trimethylsiloxy) trisiloxane; 3-methyl-1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3- [trimethylsilyl] oxy] trisiloxane; 3 - [(dimethylphenylsilyl) oxy] 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane; trisiloxane; 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3- (2-methylpentyl) 3 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] trisiloxane; 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3- (4-methylpentyl) -3 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] -3-hexyl-1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] trisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl-3 [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] trisiloxane; b) the following pentasiloxanes: 1,1,1,3,5,5,7,7,7-nonamethyl-3- (trimethylsiloxy) tetrasiloxane; 1,1,3,3,3,7,7,7-octamethyl-5-phenyl-5 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] tetrasiloxane; c) the following heptasiloxanes: 1,1,1,3,5,5,7,7,9,9,11,11,1 1-tridecamethyl-3 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] hexasiloxane.

  Among the silicones of formula (IV), mention may be made of: 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl 3,3-bis (trimethylsiloxy) trisiloxane.

  It is also possible to use other volatile silicone oils chosen from: a) the following tetrasiloxanes: 2,2,8,8-tetramethyl-5 [(pentamethyldisiloxanyl) methyl] -3,7-dioxa-2,8-disilanonane; 2,2,5,8,8-pentamethyl-5 - [(trimethylsilyl) methoxy] 4,6-dioxa-2,5,8-trisilanonane; 1,3-dimethyl-1,3-bis [(trimethylsilyl) methyl] 1,3-disiloxanediol; 3-ethyl-1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3- [3- (trimethylsiloxy) propyl] trisiloxane, - 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3-phenyl- 3 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] trisiloxane (Dow 556 Fluid); b) the following pentasiloxanes: 2,2,7,7,9,9,11,11,16,16-decamethyl-3,8,10,15-tetraoxa-2,7,9,11,16pentasilaheptadecane; tetrakis [(trimethylsilyl) methyl] silicic acid ester; c) the following hexasiloxanes: - 3,5-diethyl 1,1,1,7,7,7-hexamethyl 3,5-bis [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] tetrasiloxane, - 1,1,1,3,5 7,7,7-octamethyl 3,5-bis [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] tetrasiloxane; d) heptasiloxane: 1,1,1,3,7,7,7-heptamethyl 3,5,5-tris [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] tetrasiloxane; e) the following octasiloxanes: 1,1,1,3,5,5,9,9,9-nonamethyl-3,7,7-tris [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] pentasiloxane; Pentasiloxane; cyclotetrasiloxane.

  1,1,1,3,5,7,9,9,9-nonamethyl 3,5,7-tris [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] 1,1,1,7,7,7-hexamethyl 3,3 , 5,5-tetrakis [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] "Hydrocarbon oil" means an oil formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen, nitrogen, , sulfur, phosphorus, and not containing a silicon atom or fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

  The hydrocarbon-based volatile oil may be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof and especially C8-C16 branched alkanes such as isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane (also called 2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or 2873581 Permethyls, branched C8-C16 esters, such as isohexyl neo-pentanoate and their mixtures; isododecane is preferably used.

  The non-silicone volatile oil may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight. by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillate, in particular those sold under the name Shell Sol by the company Shell, may be used.

  Fluorinated volatile oils such as nonafluoromethoxy butane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane may also be used.

  Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of volatile oils consisting of 3-ethyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5heptamethyltrisiloxane or 3-butyl-1,1,1,3,5,5, 5-heptamethyltrisiloxane combined with isododecane or with decamethylcyclopentasiloxane or else with dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane. The mixture of said volatile oils may thus have an evaporation profile such that the mass of volatile oil evaporated after 30 minutes ranges from 16 to 29.5 mg / cm 2.

  For example, the weight ratios that may be suitable between the different oils whose evaporation profile of the mixture is such that the mass of oil evaporated after 30 minutes ranges from 16 to 24.6 mg / cm 2 are the following: of 3-ethyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane and isododecane: the weight ratio of 3-ethyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5heptamethyltrisiloxane to isododecane ranging from 0.01 to 1.86, preferably from 0.1 to 1.5, more preferably from 0.12 to 1, and more preferably from 0.15 to 0.5, mixture of 3-ethyl-1. , 1,1,3,5,5,5heptamethyltrisiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5): the weight ratio of 3-ethyl 1,1,1,3,5,5, 5-heptamethyltrisiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane may vary from 1.38 to 66.66, - mixture of 3-ethyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D6): the weight ratio of 3-ethyl-1,1,1 , 3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexane xasiloxane can vary from 1.8 to 99, - mixture of 3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane and isododecane: the weight ratio of 3-butyl 1,1,1, 3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane and isododecane may range from 1.0 to 0.01, preferably from 0.1 to 0.5.

2873581 13

NON-VOLATILE OILS

  The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one non-volatile oil which may in particular be chosen from hydrocarbon and / or silicone and / or non-volatile fluorinated oils.

  The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil remaining on the skin or the keratinous fiber, more generally on the keratinous material, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10-3. mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

  Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may especially be mentioned include: hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have various chain lengths of C4 to C24, the latter may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, such as triglycerides of heptanoic, octanoic acids; these oils include wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, pumpkin, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passiflora, muscat rose; or the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, animal oils such as mink oil, turtle, perhydrosqualene, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffin or its derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam® sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, squalane, and mixtures thereof ; esters of fatty acids, in particular from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular of octanoic acid, heptanoic acid, lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid and stearic acid, for example propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, poly-glyceryl 2-diisostearate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, synthetic esters such as oils of formula R10OOR2 in which R1 represents the remainder of a linear fatty acid or branched having from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R1 + R2 is> 10, such as for example purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate) , isononyl isononanoate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-hexyl ethyl palmitate, 2-octyl dodecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl, octyl-2-dodecyl benzoate, octanoate s, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl decyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, isodecyl neopentanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, glycerol or diglycerine triisostearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters; esters of aromatic acids and of alcohols comprising 4 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular tridecyl trimellitate, branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, oleic alcohol, linoleic or linolenic alcohol, isostearic alcohol or octyl dodecanol; higher C8-C26 fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, or isostearic acid; - and their mixtures.

  The non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes or 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.

  According to one aspect of the invention, the composition is free from non-volatile oil, that is to say comprises less than 0.1% by weight of non-volatile oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

  According to another aspect of the invention, the non-volatile oil may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 50% by weight, and preferably ranging from 1% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  AQUEOUS PHASE AND / OR WATER SOLUBLE The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one aqueous phase containing water. The water may be floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water.

  The aqueous phase can also comprise organic solvents which are water-soluble (at 25 ° C.), for example primary alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols such as glycerol, propylene glycol or butylene glycol. dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, glycol ethers, C1 to C4 alkyls, mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol ethers, mono-, di- or triethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

  The composition may be an anhydrous composition, that is to say a composition containing less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% of water, in particular water-free, the water being being not added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients.

Additives

  The composition may contain other usual cosmetic or dermatological ingredients that may be chosen in particular from polymers, in particular film-forming polymers, fixing polymers; surfactants; conditioners of the hair; dyestuffs; pearling agents; opacifiers; organic solvents; the perfumes; thickeners; gelling agents; waxes; pasty products; hair dyes; silicone resins; silicone gums, preservatives; antioxidants, cosmetic active ingredients; solar filters; pH stabilizers; vitamins; moisturizers; antiperspirant agents; deodorants; self-tanning compounds and mixtures thereof.

  Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition considered.

  The composition may advantageously contain a dyestuff which may be chosen from lipophilic dyes, hydrophilic dyes, pigments and nacres usually used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions, and mixtures thereof. This dyestuff is generally present in a proportion of from 0.01 to 40% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 35% and better still from 5 to 25%.

FORMULATION

  The composition according to the invention may be in liquid, pasty, solid, foam or spray form. It may be an emulsion or an anhydrous composition.

  The composition according to the invention can be used for the makeup or the care or cleaning of keratin materials of a human being such as the skin (of the face, body, scalp, lips), the mucous membranes (inner edge of the eyelids), hair, nails, eyelashes and eyebrows.

  The composition therefore has a particular application as a care composition for the body or the face; body or facial cleansing composition such as a shower gel, bath gel, make-up remover; makeup composition for the body or the face such as foundation, lipstick, lip care, nail polish, nail care, mascara, eyeliner; perfume composition; hair composition such as hair coloring composition, permanent hair deformation composition; sun protection composition; deodorant composition; cleaning or hair care composition such as shampoo, conditioner to be rinsed or not, rinse composition to be applied before or after coloring, discoloration, permanent or straightening or between the two stages of a perm or a straightening; hair composition for maintaining the hairstyle such as a hairspray, a gel, a mousse or a styling spray.

  2873581 17 Measurement of the evaporation rate of an oil (protocol) Introduced into a crystallizer (diameter: 7 cm) placed on a balance in an enclosure of approximately 0.3 m3 regulated in temperature (25 C) and in hygrometry (relative humidity 50%) 15 g of oil or the mixture of oils to be tested. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring, providing ventilation by a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 revolutions / minute) arranged in a vertical position above the crystallizer containing the solvent, the blades being directed towards the crystallizer and at a distance of 20 cm from the bottom of the crystallizer. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of evaporated oil per unit area (cm2) and per unit of time (minute).

  As an indication, the respective profiles of certain volatile oils are given below, in mass of volatile oil evaporated after 30 minutes: isododecane: 24 mg / cm 2, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane (D4): 18.7 mg / cm 2 decamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D5): 4.1 mg / cm 2, 3-ethyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane: 24.6 mg / cm 2, and 3-butyl 1,1,1, 3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane: 8.2 mg / cm 2.

  It is also noted that according to this protocol, the mixture of linear organosiloxanes, disclosed in US Pat. No. 6,350,440, has an evaporation profile such that the mass of volatile oil evaporated after thirty minutes ranges from 10.4 to 12.4 mg / cm 2.

  The invention is further illustrated by the examples described below.

  Example 1: Stick foundation% by weight Polyethylene wax (Performalene 500, NEW PHASE TECHNOLOGIES) 4.00 Polyethylene wax (Performalene 400, NEW PHASE TECHNOLOGIES) 8.00 Cyclopenta dimethylsiloxane (D5) 5.00 Cyclohexa dimethylsiloxane ( D6) 20.00 Hepta methyl ethyl trisiloxane 19.00 Phenyltrimethicone (DC 556, Dow Corning) 19.00 Yellow iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 2.24 2873581 18 Brown iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 0, 49 Ultramarine blue coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 0.31 Titanium oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 6.96 Particles of polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) 15.00 5 Procedure The pigments are ground with fraction of Phenyl trimethicone (3 passages in the tri-cylinder).

  The waxes are melted at 100 ° C., and then, with stirring, the pulverized pigments and the remainder of phenyltrimethicone are added.

  After about ten minutes at 100 C, the two cyclomethicones are slowly incorporated, followed by the PMMA particles.

  The temperature is then lowered to 80 ° C. and Hepta methyl ethyl trisiloxane (INCI name of 3-ethyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane) is slowly added.

  After homogenization for about 10 minutes at 80 ° C., the composition is poured into suitable molds at room temperature.

  It is then allowed to cool for 6 minutes at room temperature and then 20 minutes at -4 C.

  The evaporation profile of the mixture cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and hepta methyl ethyl trisiloxane has an evaporation profile such that the mass of volatile oil evaporated after 30 minutes is 20.5 mg / cm 2.

  Example 2: Water-in-oil emulsion foundation Cetyl dimethicone copolyol (Abil EM 90 from GOLDSCHMIDT) 0.80 g Polyglyceryl isostearate 4 0.60 g Dimethicone copolyol (KF 6017 from SHIN ETSU) 5.00 g Isostearyl neopentanoate 0.50 g Isoeicosane 2.00 g Dimethicone DC 200 Fluid 5cst DOW CORNING 2.30 g Cyclohexasiloxane 3.00 g 2873581 19 Hectorite modified distearyl dimethyl ammonium (Bentone 38 V from ELEMENTIS) Cyclopentasiloxane Hepta methyl ethyl trisiloxane Iron oxides Titanium dioxide Polymethylmethacrylate Butylene glycol Sodium chloride Preservatives qs Water qs The mixture Cyclohexasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane and hepta methyl ethyl trisiloxane has an evaporation profile such that the mass of volatile oil evaporated after 30 minutes is 16.3 mg / cm 2.

Examples 3 and 4: Mascaras

Example 3 Example 4

  (in grams) (in grams) Paraffin wax 2.18 2.18 Carnauba wax 4, 52 4.52 Beeswax 9.90 9.90 Vinyl polylaurate (Mexomere PP 0.75 0.75 CHIMEX ) Modified hectorite (Bentone 38V 5.32 5.32 of ELEMENTIS) Propylene carbonate 1.74 1.74 Polycarboxyl 2.21 2.21 Hepta methyl ethyl trisiloxane 10.00 20.00 Isododecane 57.74 47.74 Pigments 4.60 4.60 Talc 0.84 0.84 Preservative qs Qs 1.60 g 12.00 g 22.00 g 2.13 g 5.87 g 4.00 g 10.00 g 0.70 g 100 The hepta methyl ethyl trisiloxane and isododecane mixture has an evaporation profile such that the mass of volatile oil evaporated after 30 minutes is 24.2 mg / cm 2 for Example 3 and Example 4 .

2873581 21

Claims (23)

  A cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least two volatile oils, at least one of which is a linear alkyltrisiloxane linear oil of general formula (I): CH (CH) SiO siO R   where R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more fluorine or chlorine atoms, the mixture of said volatile oils having an evaporation profile such that the mass of volatile oil evaporated at the end 30 minutes ranges from 12.5 to 370 mg / cm2.   2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the mass of volatile oil evaporated after 30 minutes ranges from 15 to 70 mg / cm 2, preferably from 16 to 29.5 mg / cm 2, and better still from 16 to 24.6 mg / cm 2.   3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the volatile alkyltrisiloxane linear oil of general formula (I) is chosen from: 3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, 3-propyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, 3-ethyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.   4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it comprises a volatile linear oil (s) alkyltrisiloxane content (s) of general formula (I) ranging from 1 to 80% by weight. weight, preferably from 1 to 65% by weight, and still more preferably from 1 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.   5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the mixture of volatile oils comprises a volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oil content of formula (I) ranging from 1 to 100% by weight, preferably from 10 to If (CH) 2873581 22%, and even more preferably between 20 and 90% relative to the total weight of said mixture.   6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the composition comprises an alkyltrisiloxane linear oil of formula (I), and one or more non-compliant volatile oil (s) (s). ) in formula (I).   7. The composition as claimed in claim 6, characterized in that the weight ratio of linear oil (s) volatile alkyltrisiloxane (s) of formula (I) and volatile oil (s) not in conformity with the Formula (I) ranges from 0.001 to 99, preferably from 0.5 to 67, and even more preferably from 0.7 to 45.   8. Composition according to Claim 6 or 7, characterized in that the volatile oil (s) nonconform (s) of the formula (I) is or are chosen from volatile oils silicone, cyclic or not cyclic, or non-silicone volatile oils, especially chosen from volatile oils hydrocarbon or fluorinated, and mixtures thereof.   9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it comprises less than 0.1% by weight of volatile silicone oils, cyclic or non-cyclic, relative to the total weight of the composition.   10. Composition according to claim 9, characterized in that the volatile oil (s) not in accordance with formula (I) is or are chosen from non-silicone hydrocarbon-based volatile oils or fluorinated.   11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it comprises less than 0.1% by weight of non-silicone volatile oils relative to the total weight of the composition.   12. Composition according to claim 11, characterized in that the volatile oil or oils not in accordance with formula (I) is or are chosen from one or more oils. volatile silicone (s), cyclic (s) or non-cyclic (s).   13. Composition according to any one of claims 6 to 12, characterized in that the volatile oil (s) not (s) in accordance with formula (I) is or are a volatile silicone oil selected from 1 octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane (D4), decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5), dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D6) and mixtures thereof.   2873581 23 14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that it comprises several volatile alkyltrisiloxane linear oils of formula (I), preferably two of them.   15. Composition according to claim 14, characterized in that it comprises a mixture of 3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane and 3-ethyl 1,1,1,3 , 5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane.   16. Composition according to claim 15, characterized in that said mixture of volatile oils is free of any volatile oil which does not comply with formula (I) and has an evaporation profile such that the mass of volatile oil evaporated after thirty minutes ranges from 8 to 25 mg / cm2.   17. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that the mixture of volatile oils consists of 3 ethyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane or 3-butyl 1,1 , 1,3,5,5,5heptamethyltrisiloxane combined with isododecane or else with decamethylcyclopentasiloxane or again with octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, the evaporation profile being such that the mass of volatile oil evaporated after thirty minutes ranges from 16 to 29.5 mg / cm 2.   18. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17, characterized in that it further comprises at least one non-volatile oil which may be chosen from hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone and / or fluorinated non-volatile.   19. Composition according to claim 18, characterized in that the non-volatile oil is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 50% by weight, and preferably ranging from 1% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.   20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a cosmetic or dermatological ingredient selected from film-forming polymers, fixing polymers; surfactants; conditioners of the hair; dyestuffs; pearling agents; opacifiers; organic solvents; the perfumes; thickeners; gelling agents; waxes; pasty products; hair dyes; silicone resins; silicone gums, preservatives; antioxidants, cosmetic active ingredients; solar filters; pH stabilizers; vitamins; moisturizers; antiperspirant agents; deodorants; self-tanning compounds; and their mixtures.   2873581 24 21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a care composition of the body or face; body or facial cleansing composition such as shower gel, bath gel, make-up remover; makeup composition for the body or the face such as foundation, lipstick, lip care, nail polish, nail care, mascara, eyeliner; perfume composition; hair composition such as hair coloring composition, permanent hair deformation composition; sun protection composition; antiperspirant agents; deodorants; cleaning or hair care composition such as shampoo, conditioner to be rinsed or not, rinse composition to be applied before or after coloring, discoloration, perm or straightening, or between the two stages of a perm or a straightening; hair composition for maintaining the hairstyle such as a hairspray, a gel, a mousse or a styling spray.   22. A cosmetic process for makeup or non-therapeutic treatment of keratin materials comprising applying to the keratin materials a composition according to any one of the preceding claims.   23. Use of a mixture of at least two volatile oils as defined in any one of claims 1 to 3, 5 to 8, 10 and 12 to 17 for the preparation of a cosmetic composition.