FR2867071A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological composition, useful for fighting against the effects of e.g. ageing, cellular hypophyxia and dehydration, comprises olive water concentrated in polyphenols and peroxidized olive oil - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological composition (I) comprises olive water concentrated in polyphenols and a peroxidized olive oil. An independent claim is also included for a method of cosmetic care comprising applying (I) on the skin. ACTIVITY : Tranquilizer; Dermatological; Muscular-Gen.; Immunomodulator. MECHANISM OF ACTION : None given.

Description

COSMETIC OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION BASED ON OLIVE

  The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition based on olive oil and olive water.

  The olive tree, Olea europea for the botanist, is native to the Mediterranean basin and its culture has existed since the first ages of humanity. In Europe, its zone of implantation is limited to the Mediterranean outline, but it also grows in Asia and Africa. Properly prepared, the black olive is a food rich in minerals, vitamins, carbohydrates and proteins. The fruit, the olive and more precisely its oil has many medicinal properties.

  The fruit of the olive contains carbohydrates (mainly oses (mannitol), about 10 to 20%), proteins (enzymes: diastases (emulsin, oleasts), about 5 to 10%), lipids (triglycerides consisting of fatty acids (60 to 80% oleic acid, 7 to 14% palmitic acid, 5 to 15% linoleic acid, 3 to 5% stearic acid, 1 to 3% arachidic acid, 1 to 3% palmitoleic acid), mineral materials (calcium, iron, phosphorus, potassium, silicon, sodium, approximately 2%), phenolic compounds (mainly flavonoids), terpenoid compounds including secoiridoids (oleuropeoside) and triterpenes (saponins (oleanolic acid)), vitamins (vitamin A (retinol), vitamin D (calciferol)), unsaponifiables consisting of phenols (alphabeta-gamma-tocopherols), steroids (campesterol, phytosterol, beta-sitosterol, stigmasterol) and squalene (about 0.4 to 0.8%).

  The determining factor in the evaluation of the nutritional quality of an oil is its composition in 2867071 2 fatty acids: saturated, monounsaturated and polyunsaturated. According to nutritionists, the ideal fat intake would consist of half monounsaturated fatty acids and a quarter of polyunsaturated fatty acids. Depending on the year and the place of harvest, olive oil can contain up to 75% of monounsaturated fatty acids, that is to say oleic acid. Oils such as corn, soy, sunflower contain up to 60% polyunsaturated fatty acids, ie linoleic and linolenic acid. With its balanced composition of fatty acids, olive oil offers the best nutritional balance at the cellular level.

  Oil is not the only element extracted from the fruit of the olive tree. The extraction process of the olive is based on the following principle. grinding olives, cold pressing and centrifugation to recover the oil. A ton of olives produces an average of 200 liters of oil. The remainder, about 800 kg per ton, is composed of by-products: olive cake (formed from pulp and stone after extraction of the oil by pressing) and liquid effluents or fruit water, also called vegetable water. In volume, the fraction called margine (olive water) is the most important from the fruit. This water is heavily loaded with mineral and organic elements.

  The elimination of untreated vegetable waters poses a significant environmental pollution problem, as these waste waters are four hundred times more charged than domestic wastewater. This pollution could be considerably reduced if these waters could be valorised.

  Vegetables are very acidic effluents with a high saline and organic load. They are characterized by a pH of approximately 4.8 and a high load of minerals: 2867071 3 potassium ions (5000 to 11000 mg / l), chloride (600 to 1200 mg / l), calcium (200 to 700 mg / l) ), magnesium (130 to 290 mg / l) and phosphorus (200 to 400 mg / l). This water is also heavily loaded with organic elements such as polyphenols. Polyphenols are subdivided into several subgroups including flavonoids. From the point of view of cosmetics, flavonoids are the most effective antioxidants, which is based on the fact that they are both soluble in water and in lipids.

  The work carried out by the Applicant relates more particularly to the cosmetic or dermatological benefit obtained on the skin, by the original combination of two elements extracted from the olive: olive water and olive oil.

  The subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic or dermatological composition, characterized in that it comprises an olive water concentrated in polyphenols and a peroxidized olive oil.

  Olive water is water or water extract from the fruit of the olive.

  Olive water concentrated in polyphenols means water from the olive fruit (naturally rich in polyphenols) which has been concentrated by evaporation to obtain a more effective anti-radical active agent than known anti-radicals. Advantageously, the olive water concentrated in polyphenols thus has a particularly high anti-radical activity.

  Peroxidized olive oil is a soothing and desensitizing agent obtained by a controlled oxidation process and manufactured especially for the cosmetics of the Applicant. The transformation of olive oil into peroxidized olive oil confers on olive oil new advantageous properties, 2867071 4 in particular making it possible to solve the problem of cellular hypophyxia of the skin. Indeed, at the cellular level, the nutritional equilibrium is dependent on an element essential to the cell.

  oxygen. Oxygen is carried by the blood; as they age, the cells are no longer sufficiently oxygenated, their metabolism slows down, the skin becomes dull and then becomes fragile and wrinkled. At age 20, the oxygen content in the skin reaches a maximum level; at 30 years: the oxygen level decreases by 25% and at 40 years: the oxygen level decreases by 50%. Thus, advantageously, a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising peroxidized olive oil makes it possible to better nourish the tissues of the skin because they are better oxygenated, to increase the blood flow five minutes after application of the composition and to revive the metabolism of cutaneous cells.

  The work of the Applicant has made it possible to demonstrate that the combination of olive fruit water, which has a high anti-radical activity, with peroxidized olive oil, which boosts cellular metabolism. , makes it possible to obtain cosmetic or dermatological compositions that remarkably protect the skin from the daily aggressions that it undergoes, such as stress, fatigue, pollution or tobacco.

  The olive water concentrated in polyphenols is present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 50%, preferably from 0.5% to 30% and most preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  Olive water concentrated in polyphenols contains 5% polyphenols.

  The olive water concentrated in polyphenols can be obtained for example by gentle evaporation.

  Peroxidized olive oil is present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 40%, preferably from 0.5% to 30% and most preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  Peroxidized olive oil has a peroxide value of 50 to 90 mEg / kg.

  Peroxidized olive oil can be obtained for example by bubbling a stream of pure oxygen.

  The compositions according to the invention may also comprise other active agents generally used in cosmetics or dermatology, for example moisturizing, restructuring, seborrégulateurs, anti-inflammatory and antiseptic agents of the skin. These active agents, if present, can represent from 0.1% to 50%, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight of the composition.

  The compositions of the invention are particularly intended for the care of the skin of the face and body.

  The compositions according to the invention may be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used, and well known to those skilled in the art, in the cosmetic or dermatological fields to be applied to the skin, for example, oil emulsions. Water (O / W) or Water in Oil (W / O), lotions, shampoos, sprays, gels or bubble gels for showering, milks, masks, creams, etc. without any particular pharmaceutical restrictions other than those of the compatibility with the olive water and the olive oil at the base of the composition.

  Thus, the compositions of the invention may also contain all the constituents conventionally used in these presentations as formulating agents, surfactants, preserving agents, solubilizing agents, gelling agents, non-vegetable fatty additives, propylene glycol, sorbitol, glycerol, triethanolamine, perfume bases, water in sufficient quantity for 100.

  Thus, the invention also relates to a cosmetic care method consisting in applying to the skin an adequate amount of a composition as defined above.

  The invention also relates to the use of an olive water concentrated polyphenols in combination with a peroxidized olive oil for the preparation of a cosmetic or dermatological composition.

  The cosmetic or dermatological compositions thus prepared make it possible to combat the effects of aging, such as wrinkles, cellular hypophyxia, dehydration, the loss of flexibility and resistance of the skin and of the micro-blood vessels.

  They also make it possible to fight against daily aggressions suffered by the skin such as stress, fatigue, pollution or tobacco.

  The compositions of the invention can therefore be advantageously used for various purposes: anti-aging (especially anti-wrinkle), anti-stress or anti-pollution.

2867071 7

Description of figures

  FIG. 1 represents the percentage of inhibition of the DPPH radical as a function of the concentration of different creams.

  The curve connected by the square symbol represents the percent inhibition of DPPH as a function of the concentration of the Daily Olive Face Cream of the invention.

  The curve connected by the diamond symbol represents the percentage inhibition of DPPH as a function of the concentration of the cream SPF15 face of the invention.

  The curve connected by the symbol of the triangle represents the percentage inhibition of the DPPH as a function of the concentration of a cream of composition identical to that of the Daily Olive face cream of the invention but not containing the active ingredients of this cream.

  The curve connected by the symbol of the cross represents the percentage inhibition of the DPPH as a function of the concentration of a cream of composition identical to that of the SPF15 face cream of the invention but not containing the active ingredients of this cream.

  FIG. 2 represents the percentage of inhibition of the DPPH radical as a function of the concentration of different creams.

  The curve connected by the gray square symbol represents the percent inhibition of DPPH as a function of the concentration of the Olive Daily Face cream of the invention.

  The curve connected by the circle symbol represents the percent inhibition of DPPH as a function of the concentration of the SPF15 Face Cream of the invention.

  The curve connected by the symbol of the black square represents the percentage inhibition of the DPPH as a function of the concentration of the Vinopulp cream of the prior art.

  Other characteristics and advantages of the present invention will appear on reading the following nonlimiting examples.

  Example 1: OXYPRES test to highlight the antiradical activity of the water of the olive fruit.

  The OXYPRES test is a test to measure the oxidation of a compound.

  Free radicals are very aggressive oxidizing agents against certain constituents of the body in general, and of the skin in particular (enzymes, nucleic acids, collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid), which leads to sclerosis and fibrosis, most visible signs of skin aging. The complexion is dull and tired. It is widely accepted that pollution and stress are among the major contributors to the harmful effects of free radicals.

  The anti-free radical or antioxidant activity of olive fruit water was compared with that of known anti-radicals: Coenzyme Q10, procyanolidic oligomers (OPC) grapes and vitamin E. These activities have been highlighted and quantified by the OXYPRES test.

  A cosmetic emulsion (O / W emulsion) is placed in a sealed thermostatic container at 90 ° C in a pure oxygen atmosphere at the initial pressure of 5 bar. The oxygen pressure in the container, measured continuously, falls sharply when the emulsion begins to oxidize.

  The induction period is the time elapsed between the start of the measurement and the sudden drop in oxygen pressure.

  The protection factor (FP) is defined as the ratio of the induction period of the sample with the antioxidant over the induction period of the control (emulsion without antioxidant).

  The protective factor measurements are obtained by using in the emulsion a concentration of 0.1% of antioxidant. The activity of the antioxidant, evidenced using a peroxidic substrate, is extrapolated to a potential anti-radical activity.

  On a scale of 5, the protection factor is: - 1,2 for coenzyme Q10, - 1,4 for grape OPC, - 2,8 for vitamin E and, 4 for water of olive concentrated in polyphenols.

  Olive fruit water therefore has a more effective anti-radical activity than known antiradicals.

  Example 2 Comparison of the Composition of Different Creams of the Invention with Cream of the Prior Art

  Composition 1: Daily Olive Face Cream of the invention.

  Emulsifiers 5% Co-emulsifiers 1% Cetyl Alcohol 1.5% Olive Oil AO0 2% Peroxidized Olive Oil 1% Shea Butter 1% Decyl Oleate 1.5% Beeswax 0.5% Xanthan 0.8% Glycerine 5% Polyacrylamide 1.1% Olive water (vegetable water) concentrated in polyphenols 1.4% Water qs Fragrance qs Preservative qs The percentages given above and below represent the percentage by weight relative to total weight of the composition.

  Composition 2 Face Cream SPF15 of the invention.

  Emulsifiers 5% Co-emulsifiers 1% Olive oil AO0 1% Peroxidized olive oil 1% Solar filters 12.5% C12-15 alkylbenzoate 1% Glycerin 5% Gelling agent 0.4% 10 15 20 2867071 11 Dimethicone 1 , 5% Olive water (vegetable water) concentrated in polyphenols 1.4% Water qs Perfume qs Preservative qs SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor. In other words, the SPF15 Face Cream has been formulated to provide strong sun protection.

  The tests of use of the SPF15 face cream conducted on 23 volunteers (12 women and 11 men) having a dull and tired complexion give the attached results: - smooth texture: 96%, - softer skin: 91%, protection of the skin against the harmful effects of pollution: 84%, the skin regains its radiance and its natural balance: 65%.

  Composition 3: Anti-free radical cream of the prior art Vinopulp The constituents are: Propylene glycol Dicaprylate-dicaprate Butylene glycol Dimethicone Cetyl alcohol Glyceryl stearate Polyacrylamide Squalane Tocopheryl acetate Procyanidolic prochyroid-oligomers Tetrasodium EDTA Potassium sorbate Water Fragrance Preservative Example 3: Implementation evidence of the beneficial cosmetic or dermatological effects induced by the original combination of the two active ingredients: peroxidized olive oil and olive water concentrated in polyphenols.

  After many trials, the Applicant has selected the DPPH test for its reliability and reproducibility. This test has made it possible to demonstrate a protective effect of the creams of the invention, with respect to free radicals, which is very effective and unequaled to date.

  DPPH TEST: DPPH (2,2'-diphenyl-1-pyrilhydrazyl) is a resonance stabilized radical which has the particularity of being violet in solution. When it reacts with an antiradical compound, it turns into another product that is no longer purple. This property makes it possible to follow the evolution of the concentration of DPPH in the presence of anti-radical compositions. Indeed, using a visible spectrometer calibrated on the wavelength 1 = 515 nm (which corresponds to the maximum absorption in the violet), one can easily determine the concentration of DPPH. The lower the signal obtained at this wavelength, the better the anti-radical efficiency of the composition.

  To classify the anti-radicals in order of effectiveness, the EC50 is determined, which is the concentration of active compound (or anti-radical) required to block 50% of the radicals. Once the EC50 is determined, the compositions can be classified according to their anti-radical efficiency.

  Procedure: DPPH solution: 50 mg / l in methanol.

  É Solution of the cream to be tested: 30 mg of the cream in 5 ml of methanol, then a range of different concentrations according to this first result.

  Each experiment is performed three times.

  In a 1.5 ml plastic tub, 1 ml of DPPH solution in methanol (50 mg / l) is mixed with 25 ml of a solution of the cream as prepared above. The bowl is covered with a parafilm to prevent evaporation of solvent. The mixture reacts for one and a half hours and the visible spectrometry reading is carried out at 515 nm.

  (1) Comparison of the anti-radical activity of creams of the invention with creams not containing the active ingredients of the creams of the invention.

  The compositions of the invention described in Example 2, namely the Olive Daily Face Cream and the SPF15 Face Cream were reformulated without the active ingredients, namely without olive water concentrated in polyphenols and without peroxidized olive oil.

  The comparison of creams with and without active ingredients is illustrated in FIG.

  The DPPH test shows that the new formulas of the invention are much more effective in the fight against free radicals than comparable formulas but containing neither olive water concentrated in polyphenols nor peroxidized olive oil. Figure 1 shows the remarkable anti-radical effect obtained with the compositions of the invention comprising an olive water concentrated polyphenols and a peroxidized olive oil.

  (2) Comparison of the creams of the invention with a cream of the prior art Vinopulp.

  The anti-radical efficacy of the two face creams olive Face Daily Olive and Face SPF15 was compared with that of the cream Vinopulp of the prior art (whose composition was described in Example 2) of Caudalie. Caudalie claims to be the only laboratory to use grape OPCs that provide unparalleled skin protection against free radicals.

  The results obtained are shown in FIG.

  The DPPH test is very explicit: at the cream concentration of 8000 ppm, which is closest to normal use, it is found that for the Olive Daily Face cream a percentage of DPPH inhibition (also known as extinction) of 38% + 2%, whereas with the cream of the prior art only 17% + 1% is obtained under the same conditions. The anti-free radical activity is maximum for the Olive Daily Face Cream while that conferred by the Grape OPC is low since it has an extinction coefficient of 17%.

  The SPF 15 Face Cream has a lower anti-free radical protection than the Olive Daily Face Cream without SPF. However, the cream with SPF remains more effective against the sun's rays.

  The DDPH test has made it possible to demonstrate the very clear superiority of the creams of the invention, which are better factors for combating anti-radical attacks (pollution, smoke, sunlight, tobacco, alcohol, stress).

Claims (1)

16 CLAIMS   1) Cosmetic or dermatological composition, characterized in that it comprises an olive water concentrated in polyphenols and a peroxidized olive oil.   2) Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the olive water concentrated in polyphenols is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 50%, preferably from 0.5% to 30% and very preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   3) Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that the peroxidized olive oil is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 40%, preferably from 0.5% to 30%. and most preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   4) Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the olive water concentrated polyphenols comprises 5% polyphenols.   5) Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the peroxidized olive oil has a peroxide value of between 50 and 90 mEg / kg.   6) Cosmetic care method of applying to the skin an adequate amount of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5.   7) Use of an olive water concentrated in polyphenols in combination with a peroxidized olive oil, for the preparation of a cosmetic or dermatological composition.   8) Use according to claim 7 for the preparation of a cosmetic or dermatological composition for combating the effects of aging such as wrinkles, cell hypophyxia, dehydration, loss of flexibility and resistance of the skin and the skin. micro-blood vessels.   9) Use according to claim 8 for the preparation of a cosmetic or dermatological composition for combating daily aggressions suffered by the skin such as stress, fatigue, pollution or tobacco.