EP1363585A2

EP1363585A2 - Cosmetic or pharmaceutical agent

Info

Publication number: EP1363585A2
Application number: EP02718151A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Helmut Meffert; Axel Sanner; Kristin Tiefensee; Stephan Kothrade
Original assignee: BASF SE
Current assignee: BASF SE
Priority date: 2001-02-21
Filing date: 2002-02-20
Publication date: 2003-11-26
Also published as: WO2002072047A3; JP2004529903A; WO2002072047A2; US20040146477A1; CN1492754A; DE10108387A1

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic or pharmaceutical agents having a liquid or gel consistency and containing at least one copolymer that, in turn, contains at least one N-vinyl lactam and at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer with a longer-chain alkyl radical or alkenyl radical, said N-vinyl lactam and monomer being incorporated by polymerization in the copolymer. The invention also relates to the use of copolymers of the aforementioned type in cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions.

Description

Cosmetic or pharmaceutical agent

The present invention relates to cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions having a liquid to gel-like consistency which contain at least one copolymer which contains at least one N-vinyllactam and at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer in copolymerized form with a longer-chain alkyl or alkenyl radical. The invention further relates to the use of such copolymers in cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions.

Cosmetic products for the treatment of skin and hair are subject to a large number of requirements. In general, they should have good properties both with regard to their manageability and applicability in manufacture and with the end user and with regard to the effect achieved with them. For example, skin and hair cosmetic as well as dermatological agents should be present in formulations that enable the active ingredients contained to develop well at the site of action. They should be well tolerated by the skin and have other beneficial effects on skin or hair, such as. B. Cleaning, care, protecting, moisturizing, conditioning etc. unfold. As a rule, the beneficial effects mentioned above also go hand in hand with a positive subjective feeling that the skin or hair is healthy and well-groomed overall.

For the production of cosmetic and pharmaceutical products, hydrophobic substances with a non-solid consistency, such as oils, fats, waxes etc., are often used, which are insoluble or only partially soluble in water. Hydrophobic substances, such as oils, which are liquid at room temperature, are often impractical and difficult to handle or use. For this reason, special requirements are often placed on cosmetic and pharmaceutical agents with regard to their rheological properties. Often they can only with the help of additives, so-called thickeners, in the desired application, such as. B. gels, creams or emulsions. Examples of common low molecular weight thickeners are e.g. B. the alkali and aluminum salts of fatty acids, fatty alcohols or waxes. The use of the known thickeners is however, depending on the area of application of the preparation to be thickened, there are often disadvantages. For example, either the thickening effect of the thickeners may not be satisfactory, their use undesirable, or their incorporation into the preparation to be thickened may be difficult or completely impossible, for example because of their incompatibility with the water-insoluble compound to be thickened. In many cases, a thickener content of at least 50% by weight, based on the overall formulation, is required in order to set the desired viscosity. In addition, many conventional thickeners, especially waxes, create an unpleasant, sticky feeling on the skin.

There are also special requirements for cosmetic and pharmaceutical products which have at least one hydrophilic component and / or water in addition to or instead of a hydrophobic one. These include e.g. B. again the rheological properties and the possibility of formulating stable W / 0 or O / W emulsions. With such products in the form of gels, consumers increasingly prefer clear, opaque formulations.

Another current requirement placed on cosmetic and pharmaceutical agents is to keep the proportion of non-active substances, such as thickeners, as low as possible. There is therefore a need for additives or auxiliaries which already have a small effect and / or which have a positive effect on several of the aforementioned product properties.

It is known to use polymers to modify the rheological properties of essentially water-insoluble liquids. These have the advantage that, insofar as they are soluble in the hydrophobic substance, they generally enable the viscosity to be adjusted as a function of their molecular weight.

DE-A-2833711 describes sun protection formulations which contain oil-soluble acrylate polymers to increase the water resistance.

No. 5,318,995 describes a cosmetic composition which comprises a W / O emulsion which contains a thickener, which is a copolymer with units derived from (meth) acrylates or (meth) acrylamides and units with terminal carboxylic acid or Sulfonic acid groups. WO-A-93/01797 describes a cosmetic composition comprising an oil phase which, as a thickener, comprises a combination of two copolymers. The first copolymer has units derived from lipophilic monomers and units derived from hydrophilic monomers, the latter comprising at least one carboxylic acid and / or sulfonic acid group. The second copolymer has units derived from at least one lipophilic and from at least one hydrophilic monomer, the latter having at least one amine, amide, alcohol or ether group.

WO-A-98/30194 describes a composition comprising an oil phase and a polymer thickener which has hydrophobic functionalities which are suitable for imparting at least partial solubility in the oil and which has hydrophilic functionalities which bring about the thickening, these hydrophilic functionalities being introduced by monomers which are selected from C ₃ -C ₆ -α, β-ethylenically unsaturated monocarboxylic acids, C ₄ -C ₆ -o, ß-ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acids, their monoesters and monoamides.

DE-A-19627204 describes cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions with high water resistance which contain at least one polymer which is composed of at least 20% by weight of (meth) acrylic acid esters. These polymers contain at most 30% by weight of water-soluble monomers.

DE-A-19815127 describes an agent comprising at least one water-insoluble ingredient and at least one copolymer

A) 5 to 99% by weight of at least one N-vinylcarboxamide which is not a lactam,

B) 1 to 95% by weight of at least one hydrophobic monomer and optional

C) 0 to 94% by weight of a further monomer, which may be, inter alia, an α, β-ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid or an N-vinyl lactam.

DE-A-19753298 describes a process for the production of solid dosage forms by mixing at least one polymeric binder and at least one active ingredient to form a plastic mixture and shaping, the copolymer being a copolymer of an N-vinyl lactam and one with the N-vinyl lactam copolymerizable monomer with a hy- drophobic rest is used as well as the dosage forms obtained by this method.

EP-A-0953358 describes the use of copolymers containing 50 to 99% by weight of at least one N-vinyl lactam or N-vinylamine and 1 to 50% by weight of at least one monomer with a hydrophobic group as a matrix for the preparation of solid pharmaceutical and cosmetic dosage forms.

The unpublished German patent applications P 100 22 247.1 and P 199 41 365.7 describe the use of polyurethanes to modify the rheological properties of hydrophobic liquids.

The present invention has for its object to provide cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions of liquid to gel-like consistency with good application properties. These should preferably be suitable for the cosmetic or dermatological treatment of skin and / or hair. In particular, their rheological properties or consistency should be adjustable in the widest possible range.

Surprisingly, it has now been found that this object is achieved by a cosmetic agent which contains at least one copolymer which contains 60 to 99% by weight of at least one hydrophilic monomer and at least 65% by weight of at least one N-vinyl lactam and 1 to 40 Wt .-% contains at least one hydrophobic monomer copolymerized.

The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition having a liquid to gel-like consistency, comprising:

A) at least one copolymer which, based on the total amount of monomers,

a) 60 to 99% by weight of at least one hydrophilic monomer and thereof at least 65% by weight of at least one N-vinyl lactam, and

b) 1 to 40% by weight of at least one hydrophobic monomer which is selected from

bl) compounds of the general formula I. R ¹ 0

CH ₂ = c CX R2 ^(I >

wherein

R ^{1 represents} H, methyl or ethyl,

X represents 0, NH or NR ³ ,

R ² for C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl, C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkenyl, cycloalkyl-C ₂ -C ₂₂ alkyl, cycloalkyl-C ₂ -C ₂ alkenyl, aryl-C ₂ -C ₂ alkyl or aryl -C ₂ -C ₂₂ alkenyl, and

R ^{3 represents} -CC alkyl, cycloalkyl, aryl or one of the meanings given for R ² ,

b2) vinyl esters of aliphatic C ₈ -C ₃ o-carboxylic acids,

b3) C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl vinyl ethers

and mixtures thereof

polymerized contains, and

B) at least one cosmetically acceptable additive.

In the context of the present invention, the terms C ₈ -C ₃ o-alkyl, C ₂ -C ₂₂ alkyl and Cχ-C-alkyl include straight-chain and branched alkyl groups. Suitable short chain alkyl groups are e.g. B. straight-chain or branched Cχ-C-alkyl, preferably Ci-C _ß- alkyl and particularly preferably -C-C ₄ alkyl groups. These include in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, 2-butyl, sec-butyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, 2-pentyl, 2-methylbutyl, 3-methylbutyl, 1,2 -Dimethylpropyl, 1, 1-dimethylpropyl, 2,2-dimethylpropyl, 1-ethylpropyl, n-hexyl, 2-hexyl, 2-methylpentyl, 3-methylpentyl, 4-methylpentyl, 1, 2-dimethylbutyl, 1, 3rd -Dimethylbutyl, 2,3-dimethylbutyl, 1, 1-dimethylbutyl, 2, 2-dimethylbutyl, 3, 3-dimethylbutyl, 1, 1,2-trimethylpropyl, 1,2,2-trimethylpropyl, 1-ethylbutyl, 2 -Ethylbutyl, 1-ethyl- 2-methylpropyl, n-heptyl, 2-heptyl, 3-heptyl, 2-ethylpentyl, 1-propylbutyl, octyl etc.

Suitable longer-chain C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl or C ₈ -C ₃ o-alkenyl groups are straight-chain and branched alkyl or alkenyl groups. These are preferably predominantly linear alkyl radicals, as also found in natural or synthetic fatty acids and Fatty alcohols and oxo alcohols occur, which can optionally be additionally mono-, di- or polyunsaturated. These include e.g. B. n-hexyl (en), n-heptyl (en), n-octyl (en), n-nonyl (en), n-decyl (en), n-undecyl (en), n-dodecyl (en) , n-tridecyl (en), n-tetradecyl (en), n-pentadecyl (en), n-hexadecyl (en), n-heptadecyl (en), n-octadecyl (en), n-nonadecyl (en ) Etc.

Cycloalkyl is preferably C ₅ -C ₈ cycloalkyl, such as cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl or cyclooctyl.

Aryl is preferably phenyl, tolyl, xylyl or naphthyl.

In the following, compounds which can be derived from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid are sometimes shortened by inserting the syllable "(meth)" into the compound derived from acrylic acid.

The agents according to the invention exhibit under normal conditions

(20 ° C) a liquid to gel-like consistency. These are generally understood to mean rheological properties that range from thin, pasty / ointment-like to gel-like. The viscosity of the liquid agent is preferably in a range from about 1 to 6000 mPas. "Gel-like consistency" means agents that have a higher viscosity than a liquid and that are self-supporting, i.e. H. which retain a shape given to them without a form-stabilizing covering. In contrast to solid formulations, gel-like formulations can easily be deformed using gravity. The viscosity of the gel-like compositions is preferably in a range from greater than 600 to about 60,000 mPas.

The copolymer A) contains 60 to 99% by weight, preferably 65 to 95% by weight, of at least one hydrophilic monomer. In the context of the present invention, the term “hydrophilic monomer” denotes a monomer which has a water solubility of at least 10 g / 1, preferably at least 50 g / 1, at 20 ° C. At least 65% by weight of the compounds of component a) are selected from N-vinyl lactams, preferably from N-vinyl pyrrolidone, N-vinyl piperidone, N-vinyl caprolactam and mixtures thereof.

Component a) may have at least one further hydrophilic monomer in addition to the N-vinyl lactams. The additional hydrophilic monomers of component a) preferably comprise at least one α, β-ethylenically unsaturated mono- and / or dicarboxylic acid. Monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids with 3 to 8 carbon atoms, such as acrylic acid, are particularly preferred. Methacrylic acid, dimethacrylic acid, ethacrylic acid, maleic acid, citraconic acid, methylene malonic acid, allylacetic acid, vinyl acetic acid, crotonic acid, fumaric acid, mesaconic acid, itaconic acid and mixtures thereof. In particular, component a) uses acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid and mixtures thereof and in particular acrylic acid. The aforementioned carboxylic acids can be used in the form of the free acid, if any, the anhydrides or in partially or completely neutralized form. Alkali metal bases such as sodium hydroxide solution, potassium hydroxide solution, soda, sodium hydrogen carbonate, potassium carbonate or potassium hydrogen carbonate, alkaline earth metal bases such as calcium hydroxide, calcium oxide, magnesium hydroxide or magnesium carbonate, ammonia and amines can be used as bases for the neutralization of the carboxylic acids. Suitable amines are e.g. B. Ci-Cg-alkylamines, preferably n-propylamine and n-butylamine, dialkylamines, trialkylamines, preferably diethylpropylamine, dipropylmethylamine, triethylamine and triisopropylamine, amino alcohols, preferably ethanolamine, methylethanolamine, ethylethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl -l-propanol, triisopropanolamine and morpholine, diethylamine propylamine, diethylene triamine,

Tetraethylene pentamine, glucamine, methylglucamine and mixtures thereof.

Other suitable hydrophilic comonomers a) are e.g. B. the esters of the aforementioned α, ß-ethylenically unsaturated mono- and / or dicarboxylic acids with -C-C ₄ alcohols, such as (meth) acrylic acid methyl ester, (meth) acrylic acid ethyl ester, (meth) acrylic acid n-propyl ester, maleic acid monomethyl ester , Maleic acid dimethyl ester, maleic acid monoethyl ester, maleic acid diethyl ester etc.

Suitable further comonomers a) are e.g. B. the esters of the aforementioned α, β-ethylenically unsaturated mono- and / or dicarboxylic acids with at least dihydric alcohols, preferably C -C ₃ o-alkanediols, and their alkoxylates. These include e.g. B. 2-hydroxyethyl (meth) acrylate, 3-hydroxy-n-propyl (meth) acrylate, hydroxyisobutyl (eth) acrylate, 4-hydroxy-n-butyl (meth) acrylate, hydroxy-ter. -butyl (meth) acrylate, 3-hydroxy-2-ethylhexyl (meth) acrylate etc.

Suitable further comonomers a) are the amides and nitriles of the previously stated α, β-ethylenically unsaturated mono- and / or dicarboxylic acids, such as (meth) acrylamide, N, N-dimethyl (meth) acrylamide, N-tert. -Butyl (meth) acrylamide, (meth) acrylonitrile etc. Suitable further comonomers a) are vinyl- and allyl-substituted heteroaromatic compounds, such as N-vinylimidazole, N-vinyl-2-methylimidazole, 2- and 4-vinylpyridine, -Allylpyridin etc.

Suitable further comonomers a) are non-cyclic N-vinylcarboxamides, such as N-vinylformamide, N-vinylacetamide, N-vinylpropionamide, N-vinylbutyramide etc.

Suitable further comonomers a) are (meth) acrylamidoglycolic acid, vinylsulfonic acid, (meth) allylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth) acrylic acid (3-sulfopropyl) ester, (meth) acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid, monomers containing phosphonic acid groups, such as vinylphosphonic acid, allylphosphonic acid and acrylamidomethane propanephosphonic acid etc.

The above-mentioned compounds of component a) can be used individually or in the form of mixtures.

The hydrophobic monomer component b) of the copolymer A) preferably comprises at least one compound bl) of the general formula I, as previously defined. These preferably include the esters of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid with a saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated C ₈ -C ₈ alcohol, such as octyl (meth) acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl (meth) acrylate,

Nonyl (meth) acrylate, decyl (meth) acrylate, lauryl (meth) acrylate, pentadecyl (met) acrylate, palmityl (meth) acrylate, arrachinyl (meth) acrylate, myristyl (meth) acrylate, cetyl (meth) acrylate, stearyl ( eth) acrylate, lignocerenyl (meth) acrylate, cerotinyl (meth) acrylate, melissinyl (meth) acrylate, palmitoleinyl (meth) acrylate, 01eyl (meth) acrylate, behenyl (meth) acrylate, cyclohexylethyl (meth) acrylate, cyclohexyl tert. -butyl (meth) acrylate etc.

Suitable monomers bl) are also the amides of the acrylic,

Methacrylic or ethacrylic acid which have at least one R ³ radical on the amide nitrogen atom, as previously defined. These include, for example, n-octyl (met) acrylamide, 1, 1,3, 3-tetramethylbutyl (meth) acrylamide, ethylhexyl (meth) acrylamide, n-nonyl (meth) acrylamide, n-decyl (meth) acrylamide, n -Un- decyl (meth) acrylamide, tridecyl (meth) acrylamide, myristyl (meth) acrylamide, pentadecyl (meth) acrylamide, palmityl (meth) acrylamide, heptadecyl (meth) acrylamide, non-decyl (meth) acrylamide, arrachinyl (meth) acrylamide, behenyl (meth) acrylamide, lignocerenyl (meth) acrylamide, cerotinyl (meth) acrylamide, melissinyl (meth) acrylamide, palmitoleinyl (meth) acrylamide, oleyl (meth) acrylamide, linino lyl (meth) acrylamide, linolenyl (meth) acrylamide, stearyl (meth) acrylamide, lauryl (meth) acrylamide and mixtures thereof. Suitable monomers b1) are also the N-alkylamides, N, N'-dialkylamides, N-alkyldiamides and N, N'-dialkyldiamides of maleic acid.

2-Ethylhexyl (meth) acrylate, lauryl (meth) acrylate, myristyl (meth) acrylate, cetyl (meth) acrylate, stearyl (meth) acrylate, 01eyl (meth) acrylate, behenyl (meth) acrylate are particularly preferred as monomers bl) and mixtures thereof.

Preferred monomers b2) are the vinyl esters of aliphatic C ₈ -C ₈ carboxylic acids. These include the vinyl esters of decanoic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid and behenic acid.

Preferred monomers b3) are C ₈ -C ₈ alkyl vinyl ether. These include e.g. B. n-octyl, 2-ethylhexyl, n-nonyl, n-decyl, n-undecyl, n-dodecyl, n-tridecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-pentadecyl, n-hexad - Cyl, n-heptadecyl, n-octadecyl vinyl ether and mixtures thereof.

The cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions according to the invention preferably contain at least one copolymer A) which consists of polymerized monomer units of

60 to 99% by weight of at least one N-vinyl lactam and

1 to 40% by weight of at least one monomer b), as previously defined,

consists.

The copolymers A) are prepared by customary processes known to those skilled in the art, such as, for. B. solution, precipitation, emulsion or reverse suspension polymerization.

The polymerization temperatures are preferably in a range from about 30 to 200 ° C., particularly preferably 40 to 110 ° C. Suitable initiators are, for example, azo and peroxy compounds and the usual redox initiator systems, such as combinations of hydrogen peroxide and reducing compounds, e.g. As sodium sulfite, sodium bisulfite, sodium formaldehyde, sulfoxylate and hydrazine.

The K values of the copolymers A) are preferably at least 20. They are particularly preferably in a range from 20 to 100, in particular 20 to 80. The K values are determined according to H. Fikentscher, Cellulosechemie, Volume 13, p. 58 - 64 and 71-74 (1932) in aqueous or alcoholic solution at 25 ° C and at concentrations that are between 0.1% and 5% depending on the K value range.

The cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions according to the invention contain, as component B), at least one cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable additive. Preference is given to compositions in which component B) comprises at least one essentially water-insoluble (hydrophobic) compound which is liquid at 20 ° C. (oil or fat component). The agent according to the invention can contain the oil or fat component as a cosmetic or pharmaceutical active ingredient, as a carrier, as an auxiliary or as a combination thereof. The rheological properties or consistency of the oil- or fat-containing agents according to the invention can generally be adjusted within a wide range. "Modification of rheological properties" is widely understood in the context of the present invention. The polymers A) used in the agents according to the invention are generally suitable for thickening the consistency of hydrophobic compounds in a wide range. Depending on the basic consistency of the hydrophobic liquid compound (s), depending on the amount of polymer used, flow properties from thin to solid (in the sense of "no longer flowing") can generally be achieved. “Modification of rheological properties” is therefore understood, inter alia, to mean the increase in the viscosity of liquids, the improvement in the thixotropy properties of gels, the solidification of gels and waxes, etc. The agents according to the invention are therefore preferably suitable for the formulation of oil or fat-containing cosmetic and pharmaceutical products. Depending on the basic consistency of the compounds of component B), the properties can generally be varied from a low-viscosity to a gel-like consistency depending on the amount of polymer A) used. Solutions of the polymers A) in oil or fat components B) are preferably generally clear. Formulations, in particular cosmetic formulations, can thus advantageously be colored without being impaired by the inherent color of the compositions according to the invention. Furthermore, the agents according to the invention can be formulated in the form of opaque to clear gels.

The agents according to the invention, which comprise at least one oil or fat component B), can be present both as homogeneous-phase and as heterogeneous-phase formulations. "Homogeneous-phase formulations" have only one phase, regardless of the number of their constituents. "Heterogeneous phase compositions" are disperse systems of two or more with mutually immiscible components. These preferably include emulsions such as e.g. B. 0 / W and W / O formulations which have at least one of the oil or fat components and water described below as immiscible phases. The polymers A) used according to the invention can generally be used both in the water phase and in the oil phase. Advantageously, the copolymers A) used according to the invention can generally be readily stirred into formulations based on oil and / or fat components without the addition of solvents. It may be advantageous to heat the formulation components to temperatures> 40 ° C.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain polymer component A) in a proportion of about 0.001 to 50% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01 to 30% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the Total weight of the product.

If the agents according to the invention contain at least one hydrophobic component B), this is preferably selected from

i) oiling,

ii) fats,

iii) growing,

iv) esters of C ₆ -C ₃ o-monocarboxylic acids different from i) to iii) with mono-, di- or trihydric alcohols,

v) saturated acyclic and cyclic hydrocarbons,

vi) fatty acids,

vii) fatty alcohols

and mixtures thereof.

The agents according to the invention have z. B. an oil or fat component B), which is selected from: hydrocarbons of low polarity, such as mineral oils; linear saturated hydrocarbons, preferably with more than 8 carbon atoms, such as tetra-decane, hexadecane, octadecane, etc .; cyclic hydrocarbons such as decahydronaphthalene; branched hydrocarbons; animal and vegetable oils; To grow; Wax esters; Petroleum jelly; Esters, preferably esters of fatty acids, such as. B. the esters of C ₁ -C ₂₄ monoalcohols with C _! -C ₂₂ monocarboxylic acids, such as isopropyl isostearate, n-propyl myristate, iso-propyl myristate, n-propyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, hexacosanyl palmitate, octacosanyl palmitate, triacontanyl palmitate, dotriacontanyl palmitate, tetratriacontanyl pal itate, hexacosanyl stearate, octacosanyl stearate, triacontanyl stearate, dotriacontanyl stearate, tetratrate tetrate Salicylates, such as -CC salicylates, for. B. octyl salicylate; Benzoate esters, such as cio-cis alkyl benzoates, benzyl benzoate; other cosmetic esters, such as fatty acid triglycerides, propylene glycol monolaurate, polyethylene glycol monolaurate, Cιo-Ci ₅ alkyl lactates, etc. and mixtures thereof.

Suitable silicone oils B) are e.g. B. linear polydimethylsiloxanes, poly (methylphenylsiloxanes), cyclic siloxanes and mixtures thereof. The number average molecular weight of the polydimethylsiloxanes and poly (methylphenylsiloxanes) is preferably in a range from about 1000 to 150,000 g / mol. Preferred cyclic siloxanes have 4- to 8-membered rings. Suitable cyclic siloxanes are e.g. B. commercially available under the name Cyclomethicone.

Preferred oil or fat components B) are selected from paraffin and paraffin oils; Petroleum jelly; natural fats and oils, such as castor oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, olive oil, sunflower oil, semen oil, avocado oil, cocoa butter, almond oil, peach kernel oil, castor oil, cod liver oil, pork lard, walnut, spermacet oil, sperm oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil oil, jojoba oil, evening primrose oil; Fatty alcohols, such as lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol; Fatty acids, such as myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and various saturated, unsaturated and substituted fatty acids; Waxes such as beeswax, carnauba wax, candililla wax, walrus and mixtures of the oil or fat components mentioned above.

Suitable cosmetically and pharmaceutically acceptable oil or fat components B) are described in Karl-Heinz Schrader, Fundamentals and Recipes of Cosmetics, 2nd edition, Verlag Hüthig, Heidelberg, pp. 319-355, to which reference is made here.

Suitable cosmetically and / or dermatologically active ingredients B1) are, for. B. coloring agents, skin and hair pigmentation agents, tinting agents, tanning agents, bleaching agents, keratin-curing agents, antimicrobial agents, light filter agents, repellent agents, hyperemising agents, keratolytic and keratoplastic agents, anti-dandruff agents, anti-inflammatory agents, keratinizing agents Substances, antioxidant or active as radical scavengers, substances that moisturize or moisturize the skin, lipid-replenishing substances, anti- erythematous or anti-allergic active ingredients and mixtures thereof.

Artificially tanning agents Bl) which are suitable for tanning the skin without natural or artificial radiation with UV rays are, for. B. dihydroxyacetone, alloxan and walnut shell extract. Suitable keratin-curing substances are usually active substances, such as those used in antiperspirants, such as. As potassium aluminum sulfate, aluminum hydroxychloride, aluminum lactate, etc. Antimicrobial agents Bl) are used to destroy microorganisms or inhibit their growth and thus serve both as a preservative and as a deodorizing substance, which affects the development or intensity of body odor reduced. These include e.g. B. übe- before the preservation agent known to the person skilled in the art, such as p-hydroxybenzoic acid ester, imidazolidinyl urea, formaldehyde, sorbic acid, benzoic acid, salicylic acid, etc. Such deodorizing substances are e.g. B. zinc ricinoleate, triclosan, undecylenic acid alkylolamides, citric acid triethyl ester, chlorhexidine etc. Suitable light filter substances B1) are substances that absorb UV rays in the UV-B and / or UV-A range. Suitable UV filters are e.g. B. 2,4, 6-triaryl-l, 3, 5-triazines, in which the aryl groups can each carry at least one substituent, which is preferably selected from hydroxy, alkoxy, especially methoxy, alkoxycarbonyl, especially methoxycarbonyl and ethoxycar- bonyl and mixtures thereof. Also suitable are p-aminobenzoic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, benzophenones, camphor derivatives and pigments which block UV rays, such as titanium dioxide, talc and zinc oxide. Suitable repellent active ingredients B1) are compounds which are able to deter or drive away certain animals, in particular insects, from humans. This includes e.g. B. 2-ethyl-1, 3-hexanediol, N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide etc. Suitable hyperemising substances Bl), which stimulate the blood supply to the skin, are, for. B. essential oils, such as mountain pine, lavender, rosemary, juniper berry, horse chestnut extract, birch leaf extract, hay flower extract, ethyl acetate, camphor, menthol, peppermint oil, rosemary extract, eucalyptus oil, etc. Suitable keratolytic and keratoplastic substances are effective. B. salicylic acid, calcium thioglycolate, thioglycolic acid and its salts, sulfur, etc. Suitable antidandruff agents Bl) are, for. As sulfur, sulfur polyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfur, ricinol polyethoxylate, zinc pyrithione, aluminum pyrithione, etc. Suitable anti-inflammatory drugs Bl), which counteract skin irritation are, for. B. allantoin, bisabolol, dragosantol, chamomile extract, panthenol, etc. The cosmetic agents according to the invention can contain at least one cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable polymer different from compounds of component A) as cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical active ingredient B1) (as well as optionally as auxiliary B3)). These generally include anionic, cationic, amphoteric and neutral polymers.

Examples of anionic polymers are homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid or their salts, copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide and their salts; Sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids, water-soluble or water-dispersible polyesters, polyurethanes and polyureas. Particularly suitable polymers are copolymers of t-butyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, methacrylic acid (e.g. Luvimer® 100P), copolymers of ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid (e.g. Luvimer® MAE), copolymers of N-tert-butyl acrylamide, ethyl acrylate, acrylic acid (Ultrahold® 8, strong), copolymers of vinyl acetate, crotonic acid and optionally further vinyl esters (eg Luviset® brands), maleic anhydride copolymers, optionally reacted with alcohol, anionic polysiloxanes, eg. B. carboxy-functional, t-butyl acrylate, methacrylic acid (z. B. Luviskol® VBM), copolymers of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid with hydrophobic monomers, such as. B. C ₄ -C ₃ n-alkyl ester of meth (acrylic acid), C ₄ -C ₃ o-alkyl vinyl ester, C ₄ -C ₃ o-alkyl vinyl ether and hyaluronic acid. Examples of anionic polymers are also vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, such as are commercially available under the names Resyn® (National Starch) and Gafset® (GAP), and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, available, for example, under the trademark Luviflex® ( BASF). Other suitable polymers are the vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate terpolymer available under the name Luviflex® VBM-35 (BASF) and sodium sulfonate-containing polyamides or sodium sulfonate-containing polyester.

Other suitable polymers are cationic polymers with the designation Polyquaternium according to INCI, z. B. copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone / N-vinylimidazolium salts (Luviquat® FC, Luviquat® HM, Luviquat® MS, Luviquat® Care), copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, quaternized with diethyl sulfate (Luviquat® PQ N), copol -Vinylcaprolactam / N-vinylpyrrolidone / N-vinylimidazolium salts (Luviquat® Hold); cationic cellulose derivatives (polyquaternium-4 and -10), acrylamidocopolymer (polyquaternium-7) and chitosan. Suitable cationic (quaternized) polymers are also Merquat® (polymer based on dimethyldiallylammonium chloride), Gafquat® (quaternary polymers which result from the reaction of polyvinylpyrrolidone with quaternary ammonium compounds), Polymer JR (hydroxyethyl cellulose with cationic groups) and cationic polymers on plants - rather base, e.g. B. guar polymers, such as the Jaguar® brands from Rhodia.

Other suitable polymers are also neutral polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate and / or vinyl propionate, polysiloxanes, polyvinylcaprolactam and other copolymers with N-vinylpyrrolidone, polyethyleneimines and their salts, polyvinylamines and their salts, cellulose derivatives Polyaspartic acid salts and derivatives.

Suitable polymers are also nonionic, water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers or oligomers, such as polyvinylcaprolactam, e.g. B. Luviskol® Plus (BASF), or polyvinylpyrrolidone and their copolymers, in particular with vinyl esters, such as vinyl acetate, for. B. Luviskol® VA 37 (BASF); Polyamides, e.g. B. based on itaconic acid and aliphatic diamines, as z. B. are described in DE-A-43 33 238.

Suitable polymers are also amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, such as the octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert available under the names Amphomer® (National Starch). -Butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers as well as zwitterionic polymers, as are disclosed for example in German patent applications DE 39 29 973, DE 21 50 557, DE 28 17 369 and DE 37 08 451. Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammoniumchlorid / acrylic acid or methacrylic acid copolymers and their alkali and ammonium salts are preferred zwitterionic polymers. Other suitable zwitterionic polymers are methacrylic ethyl betaine / methacrylate copolymers, which are commercially available under the name Amersette® (AMERCHOL), and copolymers of hydroxyethyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate, N, N-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and acrylic acid (Jordapon®).

Suitable polymers are also nonionic, siloxane-containing, water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers, e.g. B. polyether siloxanes, such as Tegopren® (from Goldschmidt) or Belsil® (from Wacker).

The carrier component B2) is preferably selected from water, hydrophilic components, hydrophobic components and mixtures thereof.

Suitable hydrophilic carriers B2) are e.g. B. monohydric, dihydric or polyhydric alcohols preferably having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, n-propanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, etc. Suitable hydrophobic carriers B2) are e.g. B. the aforementioned oil and fat components, which reference is made here.

The cosmetically or pharmaceutically active agents according to the invention can furthermore contain at least one auxiliary agent B3).

The formulation base of pharmaceutical agents according to the invention preferably contains pharmaceutically acceptable excipients. The excipients known to be usable in the field of pharmacy, food technology and related fields are pharmaceutically acceptable, in particular the excipients listed in relevant pharmacopoeias (e.g. DAB Ph. Eur. BP NF) and other excipients, the properties of which do not conflict with physiological application.

Suitable auxiliaries B3) can be: lubricants, wetting agents, emulsifying and suspending agents, preserving agents, antioxidants, anti-irritants, chelating agents, emulsion stabilizers, film-forming agents, gelling agents, odor masking agents, resins, hydrocolloids, solvents, solubilizers, neutralizing agents, pigment accelerators, permeation accelerators Ammonium compounds, refatting and superfatting agents, ointment, cream or oil base materials, silicone derivatives, stabilizers, sterilizers, blowing agents, drying agents, opacifiers, thickening agents, waxes, plasticizers, white oils. A design in this regard is based on expert knowledge, such as that shown in Fiedler, H.P. Lexicon of auxiliaries for pharmacy, cosmetics and related areas, 4th ed., Aulendorf: ECV-Editio-Kantor-Verlag, 1996.

To produce the dermatological agents according to the invention, the active ingredients can be mixed or diluted with a suitable excipient. Excipients can be solid, semi-solid, or liquid materials that can serve as a vehicle, carrier, or medium for the active ingredient. If desired, further auxiliaries are admixed in the manner known to the person skilled in the art.

Examples of preferred cosmetic and dermatological formulations are ointments, creams, emulsions, suspensions, lotions, milk, pastes, gels, foams, sprays, etc. If desired, liposomes or microspheres can also be used.

The cosmetic agents according to the invention can be skin cosmetic, dermatological or hair cosmetic agents. According to a first preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention are a skin cleanser.

Preferred skin cleaning agents are soaps with a liquid to gel-like consistency, such as transparent soaps, luxury soaps, deodorant soaps, cream soaps, baby soaps, skin protection soaps, abrasive soaps and syndets, paste-like soaps, lubricating soaps and washing pastes, liquid washing, showering and bathing preparations, such as washing lotions, shower baths and -gels, bubble baths, oil baths and scrub preparations.

According to a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention are cosmetic agents for the care and protection of the skin, nail care agents or preparations for decorative cosmetics.

It is particularly preferably skin care products, intimate care products, foot care products, light protection agents, repellents, shaving agents, hair removal agents, anti-acne agents, make-ups, mascara, lipsticks, eye shadows, eyeliner pencils, eyeliner, rouges and eyebrow pencils.

The skin care products according to the invention are in particular W / 0 or O / W skin creams, day and night creams, eye creams, face creams, anti-wrinkle creams, moisturizing creams, bleaching creams, vitamin creams, skin lotions, care lotions and moisturizing lotions.

Skin cosmetic and dermatological agents based on the previously described polymers A) have advantageous effects. The polymers can contribute, among other things, to moisturizing and conditioning the skin and to improving the feeling on the skin. The polymers can also act as thickeners in the formulations. By adding the polymers according to the invention, a considerable improvement in skin tolerance can be achieved in certain formulations.

Skin cosmetic and dermatological agents preferably contain at least one copolymer A) in a proportion of about 0.001 to 50% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 30% by weight, very particularly preferably 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent.

Light stabilizers based on copolymers A) in particular have the property of increasing the residence time of the UV-absorbing substances in comparison to conventional auxiliaries such as polyvinylpyrrolidone. Depending on the field of application, the agents according to the invention can be used in a form suitable for skin care, such as. B. as a cream, foam, gel, stick, mousse, milk, spray (pump spray or spray containing blowing agent) or lotion.

In addition to the polymers A) and suitable carriers, the skin cosmetic preparations can also contain other active ingredients and auxiliaries customary in skin cosmetics, as described above. These preferably include emulsifiers, preservatives, perfume oils, cosmetic active ingredients such as phytantriol, vitamins A, E and C, retinol, bisabolol, panthenol, light stabilizers, bleaches, colorants, tinting agents, tanning agents, collagen, protein hydrolyzates, stabilizers, pH value -Regulators, dyes, salts, thickeners, gelling agents, consistency agents, silicones, humectants, moisturizers and other common additives.

Preferred oil and fat components of the skin cosmetic and dermatological agents are the aforementioned mineral and synthetic oils, such as, for. B. paraffins, silicone oils and aliphatic see hydrocarbons with more than 8 carbon atoms, animal and vegetable oils, such as. B. sunflower oil, coconut oil, avocado oil, olive oil, lanolin, or waxes, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, such as. B. triglycerides of C ₆ -C ₃ o-fatty acids, wax esters, such as. B. jojoba oil, fatty alcohols, petroleum jelly, hydrogenated lanolin and acetylated lanolin and mixtures thereof.

The polymers according to the invention can also be mixed with conventional polymers if special properties are to be set.

To set certain properties such. B. Improving the feel, the spreading behavior, the water resistance and / or the binding of active substances and auxiliaries such as pigments, the skin cosmetic and dermatological preparations can additionally also contain conditioning substances based on silicone compounds. Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyarylalkylsiloxanes, polyether siloxanes or silicone resins.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations are produced by customary methods known to the person skilled in the art.

The cosmetic and dermatological agents are preferably in the form of emulsions, in particular in the form of water-in-oil (W / 0) or oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions. However, it is also possible to choose other types of formulation, for example hydrodispersions, gels, oils, oleogels, multiple emulsions, for example in the form of W / O / W or O / W / O emulsions, anhydrous ointments or ointment bases, etc.

Emulsions are prepared by known methods. In addition to the copolymer A), the emulsions generally contain customary constituents, such as fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and in particular fatty acid triglycerides, fatty acids, lanolin and derivatives thereof, natural or synthetic oils or waxes and emulsifiers in the presence of water. The selection of the additives specific to the type of emulsion and the preparation of suitable emulsions is described, for example, in Schrader, Fundamentals and Recipes for Cosmetics, Hüthig Buch Verlag, Heidelberg, 2nd edition, 1989, third part, to which reference is expressly made here.

A suitable emulsion, e.g. B. for a skin cream etc., generally contains an aqueous phase which is emulsified in an oil or fat phase by means of a suitable emulsifier system.

The proportion of the emulsifier system in this type of emulsion is preferably about 4 to 35% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion. The proportion of the fat phase is preferably about 20 to 60% by weight. The proportion of the aqueous phase is preferably about 20 to 70%, in each case based on the total weight of the emulsion. The emulsifiers are those which are normally used in this type of emulsion. You will e.g. B. selected from: -C ₂ -C ₈ sorbitan fatty acid esters; Esters of hydroxystearic acid and Cχ ₂ -C ₃ o-fatty alcohols; Mono- and diesters of Cχ ₂ -C ₈ fatty acids and glycerol or polyglycerol; Condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene glycols; oxypropylenated / oxyethylated C ₂ -C ₈ fatty alcohols; polycyclic alcohols such as sterols; high molecular weight aliphatic alcohols such as lanolin; Mixtures of oxypropylene / polyglycerolated alcohols and magnesium isostearate; Succinic esters of polyoxyethylenated or polyoxypropylenated fatty alcohols; and mixtures of magnesium, calcium, lithium, zinc or aluminum lanolate and hydrogenated lanolin or lanolin alcohol.

Preferred fat components which can be contained in the fat phase of the emulsions are: hydrocarbon oils, such as paraffin oil, purcellin oil, perhydrosqualene and solutions of microcrystalline waxes in these oils; animal or vegetable oils, such as sweet almond oil, avocado oil, calophylum oil, lanolin and derivatives thereof, castor oil, sesame oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, karite oil, hoplostethus oil; mineral oils whose distillation begins under atmospheric pressure at approx. 250 ° C and whose distillation end point is 410 ° C, such as B. Vaseline oil; Esters of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, such as alkyl myristates, e.g. B. i-propyl, butyl or Ce tyl myristate, hexadecyl stearate, ethyl or i-propyl palmitate, octane or decanoic acid triglycerides and cetyl ricinoleate.

The fat phase can also contain silicone oils soluble in other oils, such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane and the silicone glycol copolymer, fatty acids and fatty alcohols.

In order to promote the retention of oils, waxes can also be used in addition to the polymers A), such as, for example, B. carnauba wax, candililla wax, beeswax, microcrystalline wax, ozokerite wax and Ca, Mg and Al oleates, myristates, linoleates and stearates.

Generally, the water-in-oil emulsions are made by placing the fat phase and emulsifier in a batch container. It is heated at a temperature of about 50 to 75 ° C., then the oil-soluble active ingredients and / or auxiliaries are added and, with stirring, water is added which has previously been heated to about the same temperature and in which, if appropriate, the water-soluble ones Ingredients previously solved. The mixture is stirred until an emulsion of the desired fineness is obtained and then allowed to cool to room temperature, stirring less if necessary.

According to a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention are a shower gel, a shampoo formulation or a bath preparation.

Such formulations contain at least one polymer A) and more common anionic surfactants as base surfactants and amphoteric and / or nonionic surfactants as cosurfactants. Further suitable active substances and / or auxiliary substances are generally selected from lipids, perfume oils, dyes, organic acids, preservatives and antioxidants as well as thickeners / gelling agents, skin conditioners and humectants.

These formulations preferably contain 2 to 50% by weight, preferably 5 to 40% by weight, particularly preferably 8 to 30% by weight, of surfactants, based on the total weight of the formulation.

All anionic, neutral, amphoteric or cationic surfactants commonly used in personal cleansing agents can be used in the washing, showering and bathing preparations.

Suitable anionic surfactants are, for example, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, N-alkoylsarcosinates, acyl taurates, Acyl isethionates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl ether carboxylates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, especially the alkali and alkaline earth metal salts, e.g. As sodium, potassium, magnesium, calcium, and ammonium and triethanolamine salts. The alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylates can have between 1 and 10 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units, preferably 1 to 3 ethylene oxide units in the molecule.

These include e.g. B. sodium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium lauryl sarcosinate, sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, sodium dodecylbenzenesulfonate, triethanolamine dodecat benzyl sulfonate.

Suitable amphoteric surfactants are e.g. B. alkyl betaines, alkyl amido propyl betaines, alkyl sulfobetaines, alkyl glycinates, alkyl carboxyglycinates, alkyl amphoacetates or propionates, alkyl amphodiacetates or dipropionates.

For example, cocodimethylsulfopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine or sodium cocamphopropionate can be used.

Suitable nonionic surfactants are, for example, the reaction products of aliphatic alcohols or alkylphenols with 6 to 20 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain, which can be linear or branched, with ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide. The amount of alkylene oxide is about 6 to 60 moles per mole of alcohol. Alkyl inoxides, mono- or dialkylalkanolamines, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycols, ethoxylated fatty acid amides, alkyl polyglycosides or sorbitan ether esters are also suitable.

In addition, the washing, showering and bathing preparations can contain customary cationic surfactants, such as. B. quaternary ammonium compounds, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride.

In addition, other conventional cationic polymers can be used, such as. B. copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyl-diallylammonium chloride (Polyquaternium-7), cationic cellulose derivatives (Polyquaternium-4, -10), guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (INCI: hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride), copolymers of N-vinylpyridazolidone and quaternium (Polyquaternium-16, -44, -46), copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, quaternized with diethyl sulfate (Polyquaternium-11) and others. Furthermore, the shower gel / shampoo formulations thickeners such. B. table salt, PEG-55, propylene glycol oleates, PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleates and others, and preservatives, other active ingredients and auxiliaries and water.

According to a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention are a hair treatment agent.

Hair treatment compositions according to the invention preferably contain at least one copolymer A) in an amount in the range from about 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferably in the form of a foaming agent, hair mousse, hair gel, shampoo, hair spray or hair foam. Hair sprays include both aerosol sprays and pump sprays without propellant. Hair foams include both aerosol foams and pump foams without propellant.

Hair sprays and hair foams preferably comprise predominantly or exclusively water-soluble or water-dispersible components. If the compounds used in the hair sprays and hair foams according to the invention are water-dispersible, they can be used in the form of aqueous microdispersions with particle diameters of usually 1 to 350 nm, preferably 1 to 250 nm. The solids contents of these preparations are usually in a range from about 0.5 to 20% by weight. These microdispersions generally do not require any emulsifiers or surfactants to stabilize them.

Preferred hair treatment agents are in the form of an aqueous dispersion or in the form of an alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution. Examples of suitable alcohols are ethanol, propanol, isopropanol and mixtures thereof.

Furthermore, the hair treatment compositions according to the invention can generally contain customary cosmetic auxiliaries, for example plasticizers, such as glycerol and glycol; emollients; perfumes; surfactants; UV absorbers; dyes; antistatic agents; Combability enhancers; Preservatives; and defoamers.

If the compositions according to the invention are formulated as a hairspray, they contain a sufficient amount of a blowing agent, for example a low-boiling hydrocarbon or ether, such as propane, butane, isobutane or dimethyl ether. Compressed gases such as nitrogen, air or are also usable as blowing agents Carbon dioxide. The amount of blowing agent can be kept low so as not to unnecessarily increase the VOC content. It is then generally not more than 55% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. If desired, however, higher VOC contents of 85% by weight and above are also possible.

The polymers A) described above can also be used in combination with other hair polymers in the compositions. Suitable polymers are those described above.

The other hair polymers are preferably in amounts up to

10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the agent included.

A preferred hair treatment composition contains:

a) 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably 1 to 10% by weight, of at least one polymer A), as previously defined,

b) 50 to 99.5% by weight, preferably 55 to 99% by weight, of a carrier (solvent) selected from water and water-miscible solvents, preferably C ₂ -C ₅ alcohols, in particular ethanol, and mixtures thereof,

c) 0 to 70 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 50 wt .-%, of a blowing agent, preferably selected from dimethyl ether and alkanes, such as. B. propane / butane mixtures,

d) 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, of at least one hair polymer different from a), preferably a water-soluble or dispersible polymer,

e) 0 to 0.5% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 2% by weight, of at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible silicone compound,

and optionally further active substances and / or auxiliary substances, as previously defined.

The component according to the invention can contain, as component e), at least one nonionic, siloxane-containing, water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer, in particular selected from the polyether siloxanes described above. The proportion of this component is then generally about 0.001 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The agent according to the invention can, as an additional component, at least one water-insoluble silicone, in particular a polydimethylsiloxane, e.g. B. the Abil® types from Goldschmidt contain. The proportion of this component is then generally about 0.0001 to 0.2% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The agent according to the invention can optionally also have a defoamer, for. B. silicone-based. The amount of defoamer is generally up to about 0.001% by weight based on the total amount of the agent.

Another object of the invention is the use of at least one copolymer which

b) 1 to 40% by weight of at least one hydrophobic monomer selected from

bl) compounds of the general formula I.

R ¹ O

CH ₂ ^: CCX- R ² (I)

wherein

R ^{1 represents} H, methyl or ethyl,

X represents O, NH or NR ³ ,

R ² for C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl, C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkenyl, cycloalkyl-C ₆ -C ₂₂ alkyl, cycloalkyl-C ₆ -C ₂₂ alkenyl, aryl C ₆ -C alkyl or Aryl-Cg-C ₂ -alkenyl, and

R ^{3 represents} Cχ-C ₇ alkyl, cycloalkyl, aryl or one of the meanings given for R ² ,

b2) vinyl esters of aliphatic Cg-C ocarboxylic acids,

b3) C ₈ -C ₃ o-alkyl vinyl ethers

and mixtures thereof, polymerized contains, as a component of a homogeneous-phase or heterogeneous-phase cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, which comprises at least one hydrophobic component, for modifying the rheological properties of this composition.

Another object of the invention is the use of a copolymer, as previously defined, in skin cleansing agents, agents for the care and protection of the skin, nail care agents, preparations for decorative cosmetics, shower gels, shampoos, bath preparations and hair treatment agents.

Another object of the invention is the use of the copolymers A) in skin cleansers, compositions for the care and protection of the skin, nail care products, preparations for decorative cosmetics, shower gels, shampoos and bath preparations, which comprise water and at least one hydrophobic component, for keeping the Skin, for skin conditioning, d. H. z. B. to improve the feel and smoothness, as a thickener and / or to improve skin tolerance, d. H. to reduce the irritant effect especially against surfactants and to produce better wetting.

In hair treatment compositions, the copolymers A) are preferably used as setting agents and / or conditioners. The composition is preferably in the form of a foaming agent, hair mousse, hair gel, shampoo, hair spray or hair foam.

The invention is illustrated by the following, non-limiting examples.

Examples

I. applications

Example of use 1: skin cream

A water / oil cream emulsion (skin cream A) was prepared according to the following recipe:

Example of use 2: shower gel / shampoo

According to the following recipe, a shower gel formulation according to the invention (shower gel A) was first produced:

Three comparison shower gels were produced in the same way: Shower gel B: (copolymer according to the invention replaced by the same amount of the uncrosslinked polymer Polyquaternium-16)

Shower gel C: (copolymer according to the invention replaced by the same amount of cationically modified hydroxyethyl cellulose)

Shower gel D: (without polymer additive)

The following comparative test was carried out with the shower gels A, B, C and D to determine the creaminess:

2.0 g each of the above-mentioned formulation was applied to the left palm of the hand, foamed with tap water and, after 1 minute of rubbing between both hands, the feeling of foam in the palms of the hands was assessed:

Grade 1: very creamy / creamy Grade 2: creamy / creamy Grade 3: dull / devoid of content

Result of the comparison test (mean value of the assessment by 10 test persons)

Example of Use 3: Moisturizing Formulation Formulation A

Polymer vinyl pyrrolidone / stearyl methacrylate 80/20% by weight 3.0 (K value 25; 1% in isopropanol)

Water ad 100

To prepare the formulation, both phases were heated to 80 ° C., phases a) and b) were stirred in, homogenized and cold-stirred, and then adjusted to pH 6 with 10% aqueous NaOH solution.

In the same way, a comparison cream (formulation B) was prepared without the addition of polymer.

A formulations test was carried out on formulations A and B on 8 subjects. For this purpose, the formulations were applied to the test subjects' forearms in an amount of 2 mg / cm ² . After 30 minutes, the moisture content of the skin was determined using a CM 825 Corneometer (from Khazaka & Courage). After application of formulation A, an average value of 41 corneometer units was measured, with formulation B an average value of 35.

Example of use 4: O / W cream for moisturizing the skin

Example of use 5: O / W lotion

Example of use 6: W / O lotion 0

° Example 7: Hydrogel for skin care

5

Polyethylene glycol 400 5.0

Ethanol 1.0

Perfume oil q.s,

Preservatives q.s,

Water ad 100

Example of use 8: liquid soap

Addition% by weight

Coconut fatty acid, potassium salt 15

potassium oleate

glycerin

Polymer vinyl pyrrolidone / stearyl methacrylate 70/30% by weight (K value 47; 1% in isopropanol)

glyceryl stearate

Ethylene glycol

Specific additives, complexing agents, fragrance 100 substances, water

Example of use 9: W / O sun protection emulsion

Example of use 10: sun protection oil

Claims

claims

1. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical agent with a liquid to gel-like consistency, containing:

A) at least one copolymer which, based on the total amount of monomer,

bl) compounds of the general formula I.

R ¹ 0

CH ₂ XR ² (I)

wherein

R ^{1 represents} H, methyl or ethyl,

X represents O, NH or NR ³ ,

R ² for C ₈ -C ₃ o-alkyl, C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkenyl, cycloalkyl-

C ₂ -C ₂₂ alkyl, cycloalkyl-C ₂ -C ₂₂ alkenyl, aryl-C ₂ -C ₂ alkyl or aryl-C -C ₂₂ alkenyl, and

b2) vinyl esters of aliphatic C ₈ -C ₃ Q carboxylic acids,

b3) C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl vinyl ethers

and mixtures thereof,

polymerized contains, and B) at least one cosmetically acceptable additive.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the N-vinyl lactam is selected from N-vinyl pyrrolidone, N-vinyl piperidone, N-vinyl caprolactam and mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein component a) comprises at least one α, β-ethylenically unsaturated mono- and / or dicarboxylic acid.

4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the copolymer A) consists of polymerized monomer units of

60 to 99% by weight of at least one N-vinyl lactam and

1 to 40% by weight of at least one monomer b) as defined in claim 1.

5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the

Component B) comprises at least one hydrophobic compound that is liquid at 20 ° C.

6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein component B) is selected from

Bl) cosmetic and pharmaceutical active ingredients,

B2) carriers and

B3) auxiliary substances.

7. Composition according to claim 6, wherein component B2) is selected from water, hydrophilic components, hydrophobic components and mixtures thereof.

8. Composition according to one of claims 5 to 7, containing at least one hydrophobic component which is selected from

i) oiling,

ii) fats,

iii) growing, iv) esters of C ₆ -C ₃ o-monocarboxylic acids with mono-, di- or trihydric alcohols which differ from i) to iii),

v) saturated acyclic and cyclic hydrocarbons,

vi) fatty acids,

vii) fatty alcohols

and mixtures thereof.

9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims in the form of an ointment, cream, emulsion, suspension, lotion, milk, paste, a gel, foam or spray.

10. Hair treatment composition containing:

a) 0.5 to 20% by weight, at least polymer A), as defined in one of claims 1 to 4,

b) 50 to 99.5% by weight of a carrier which is selected from water, water-miscible solvents, preferably C ₂ to Cs alcohols, and mixtures thereof,

c) 0 to 70% by weight of a blowing agent, which is preferably selected from dimethyl ether and alkanes,

d) 0 to 10% by weight of at least one hair polymer different from a),

e) 0 to 0.5% by weight of at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible silicone compound,

and, if appropriate, further active substances and / or auxiliary substances.

11. Use of at least one copolymer, the

b) 1 to 40% by weight of at least one hydrophobic monomer selected from

bl) compounds of the general formula I. R ¹ 0

CH ₂ = CCXR ^{2 (I)}

wherein

R ^{1 represents} H, methyl or ethyl,

X represents 0, NH or NR ³ ,

R ² for C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl, C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkenyl, cycloalkyl-C ₆ -C ₂₂ alkyl, cycloalkyl-C ₆ -C ₂₂ alkenyl, aryl-C ₆ -C ₂₂ alkyl or aryl-C ₆ -C ₂₂ alkenyl, and

b2) vinyl esters of aliphatic C ₈ -C ₃ -carboxylic acids,

b3) C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl vinyl ethers

and mixtures thereof,

polymerized contains, as a component of a homogeneous-phase or heterogeneous-phase cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, which comprises at least one hydrophobic component, for modifying the rheological properties of this composition.

12. Use of a copolymer, as defined in claim 11, in skin cleansing agents, agents for the care and protection of the skin, nail care agents, preparations for decorative cosmetics, shower gels, shampoos, bath preparations and hair treatment agents.

13. Use according to claim 12 in skin cleansing agents, agents for the care and protection of the skin, nail care agents, preparations for decorative cosmetics, shower gels, shampoos and bath preparations which comprise water and at least one hydrophobic component, for keeping the skin moist, for conditioning the skin , as a thickener, to improve skin tolerance and / or to produce better wetting.

14. Use according to claim 12 in hair treatment compositions as a setting and / or conditioner.

15. Use according to claim 14, wherein the composition is in the form of a foaming agent, hair mousse, hair gel, shampoo, hair spray or hair foam.