EP1028695A1

EP1028695A1 - Agent for dyeing fibers containing keratin with a concentration of dehydroascorbic acid content

Info

Publication number: EP1028695A1
Application number: EP98954334A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Hinrich Möller; Horst Höffkes
Original assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 1997-10-14
Filing date: 1998-10-05
Publication date: 2000-08-23
Also published as: JP2001519372A; WO1999018917A2; WO1999018917A3; DE19745354A1; AU1150099A

Abstract

The invention relates to an agent for dyeing fibers containing keratin. Said agent contains dehydroascorbic acid of formula (I) and at least one compound having a primary or secondary amino group or a hydroxy group selected from primary or secondary aliphatic or aromatic amines, heterocyclic compounds containing nitrogen, α- to φ- amino acids, oligopeptides and aromatic hydroxy compounds with 2 to 9 amino acids, and/or at least one CH active compound.

Description

"Agent for dyeing fibers containing keratin containing dehydroascorbic acid"

The invention relates to an agent for dyeing keratin-containing fibers, which contains dehydroascorbic acid in combination with reactive components, the use of this agent for dyeing keratin-containing fibers and a method for dyeing keratin-containing fibers.

For dyeing keratin fibers, e.g. B. hair, wool or fur, generally either direct dyes or oxidation dyes, which are formed by oxidative coupling of one or more developer components with one another or with one or more coupler components, are used. Coupler and developer components are also referred to as oxidation dye precursors.

Primary aromatic amines with a further free or substituted hydroxy or amino group in the para or ortho position, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazolone derivatives and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and their derivatives are usually used as developer components.

Specific representatives are, for example, p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, p-aminophenol, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,5-diaminophenyl ) -ethanol, 2- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -ethanol, 1-phenyl-3-carboxy-amido-4-amino-pyrazolon-5, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2-hydroxymethyl-4-aminophenol, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine and 2,5,6-thamino-4-hydroxypyrimidine.

M-Phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenols are generally used as coupler components. Suitable coupler substances are in particular α-naphthol, 1, 5-, 2,7- and 1, 7-dihy- droxynaphthalene, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, m-aminophenol, resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, m-phenylenediamine, 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, 1-phenyl-3-methyl-pyrazolone-5, 2,4-dichloro- 3-aminophenol, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methylresorcinol and 5-me- thylresorcinol.

With regard to other conventional dye components, reference is expressly made to the “Dermatology” series, edited by Ch. Culnan, H. Maibach, Verlag Marcel Dekker Inc., New York, Basel, 1986, Vol. 7, Ch. Zviak, The Science of Hair Care, Chapter 7, pages 248 - 250 (direct dyes), and Chapter 8, pages 264 - 267 (oxidation dyes), as well as the "European inventory of cosmetic raw materials", 1996, published by the European Commission, available in disk form from the Federal Association of German Industrial and commercial companies for pharmaceuticals, health products and body care products eV, Mannheim.

Intensive dyeings with good fastness properties can be achieved with oxidation dyes, but the development of the color generally takes place under the influence of oxidizing agents such as H ₂ O ₂ , which in some cases can damage the fibers. Furthermore, some oxidation dye precursors or certain mixtures of oxidation dye precursors can sometimes have a sensitizing effect on people with sensitive skin. Direct dyes are applied under gentler conditions, but their disadvantage is that the dyeings often have inadequate fastness properties.

The object of the present invention is to provide colorants for keratin fibers, in particular human hair, which are qualitatively at least equivalent in terms of color depth, gray coverage and fastness properties to conventional oxidation hair colorants, but without being dependent on oxidizing agents such as H ₂ O ₂ . Another object of the present invention is to provide colorants with which a wide variety of color shades can be obtained. Staining of the skin areas should be avoided if possible. In addition, the colorants may have no or only a very low sensitization potential. Surprisingly, it was found that combinations of dehydroascorbic acid and at least one other component are outstandingly suitable for dyeing fibers containing keratin. The agents result in colorations with excellent brilliance and depth of color and lead to a variety of color nuances. The use of oxidizing agents is not necessary, but should not be excluded in principle.

The present invention accordingly relates to an agent for dyeing keratin-containing fibers

A) dehydroascorbic acid of the formula (I)

and

B) at least one compound having a primary or secondary amino group or hydroxy group, selected from primary or secondary aliphatic or aromatic amines, nitrogen-containing heterocyclic compounds, α- to ω-amino acids, oligopeptides and aromatic hydroxy compounds composed of 2 to 9 amino acids, and / or at least one CH active connection.

Keratin-containing fibers are wool, furs, feathers and in particular human hair. In principle, however, the colorants according to the invention can also be used to dye other natural fibers, such as cotton, jute, sisal, linen or silk, modified natural fibers such as regenerated cellulose, nitro, alkyl or hydroxyalkyl or acetyl cellulose and synthetic fibers such as polyamide, Polyacrylonitrile, polyurethane and polyester fibers can be used. The compositions according to the invention preferably contain the compounds of components A and B in an amount of 0.03 to 65, in particular 1 to 40 mmol, in each case based on 100 g of the total colorant.

The present invention also includes those embodiments which contain reaction products of the individual components A and B.

The dehydroascorbic acid contained as component A is a known compound, the preparation of which is described in the literature and which is commercially available.

Suitable compounds with a primary or secondary amino group as component B are, for example, primary aromatic amines such as N, N-dimethyl, N, N-diethyl, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N-ethyl, N, N-bis - (2-hydroxyethyl) -, N- (2-methoxyethyl-), 2,3-, 2,4-, 2,5-dichloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dihydroxy -4-morpholinoaniline dihydrobromide, 2-, 3-, 4-aminophenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2-hydroxymethyl-4-aminophenol, o-, p-phenylenediamine, o-toluenediamine, 2, 5-diaminotoluene, phenol, phenethole, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2- (2,5-diaminophenyl) ethanol, 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, 2- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 4-methylamino-, 3-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethyloxy) -, 3,4-methylenediamino-, 3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 3-amino-2,4-dichloro-, 4-methylamino-, 2- Methyl-5-amino-, 3-methyl-4-amino-, 2-methyl-5- (2-hydroxyoxyamino) -, 6-methyl-3-amino-2-chloro, 2-methyl-5- amino-4-chloro, 3,4-methylene dioxy, 5- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -4-methoxy-2-methyl, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 1, 3-D iamino-2,4-dimethoxybenzene, 2-, 3-, 4-aminobenzoic acid, -phenylacetic acid, 2,3-, 2,4-, 2,5-, 3,4-, 3,5-diaminobenzoic acid, 4-, 5-aminosalicylic acid, 3-amino-4-hydroxy-, 4-amino-3-hydroxy-benzoic acid, 2-, 3-, 4-aminobenzenesulfonic acid, 3-amino-4-hydroxybenzoisulfonic acid, 4-amino-3-hydroxynaphthalene -1-sulfonic acid, 6-amino-7-hydroxynaphthalene-2-sulfonic acid, 7-amino-4-hydroxynaphthalene-2-sulfonic acid, 4-amino-5-hydroxynaphthalene-2,7-disulfonic acid, 3-amino-2-naphthoic acid , 3-aminophthalic acid, 5-aminoisophthalic acid, 1, 3,5-, 1, 2,4-triaminobenzene, 1, 2,4,5-tetraaminobenzene, 2,4,5-thaminophenol, pentaaminobenzene, hexaaminobenzene, 2,4,6-triamine-oresorcinol, 4,5-diamino-catechol, 4,6-diaminopyrogallol, 3,5-diamino-4-hydroxy-pyrocatechol, aromatic anilines or phenols with a further aromatic radical, as in the formula II are shown

(")

in which R ^{1 represents} a hydroxyl or an amino group which may be substituted by C _M alkyl, C _1-4 hydroxy alkyl or C ^ alkoxy-C ^ alkyl,

R ² , R ³ , R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ^{6 represent} hydrogen, a hydroxy or an amino group, which are substituted by a C _1-4 alkyl, C _1-4 hydroxyalkyl, C _1-4 aminoalkyl or C ^ -alkoxy-C _M -alkyl group can be substituted, represent a carbon or sulfonic acid group, and

Z for a direct bond, a saturated or unsaturated carbon chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by hydroxy groups, a carbonyl, sulfonyl or imino group, an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a group with the

Formula III

Z- (CH ₂ -Y-CH ₂ -Z ') ₀ (III)

in which Y is a direct bond, a CH ₂ or CHOH group,

Z and Z 'independently for an oxygen atom, an NR ⁷ group, wherein R ^{7 is} hydrogen, a C _1-4 alkyl, or hydroxy-C _1-4 alkyl group, the group

O- (CH ₂ ) _p -NH or NH- (CH ₂ ) _p . -O, where p and p 'are 2 or 3, and o is a number from 1 to 4, such as 4,4'-diaminostilbene , 4,4'-diaminostilbene-2,2'-disulfonic acid mono- or

di-Na salt, 4-amino-4'-dimethylaminostilbene, 4,4'-diaminodiphenylmethane, sulfide, sulfoxide, amine, 4,4'-diaminodiphenylamine-2-sulfonic acid, 4,4'-diaminobenzophenone, - Diphenyl ether, 3,3 ', 4,4'-tetraaminodiphenyl, 3,3', 4,4'-tetraamino-benzophenone, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1,8-bis - (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -3,6-dioxaoctane, 1,3-bis (4-aminophenylamino) propane, -2-propanol, 1,3-bis- [N- (4-aminophenyl) -2 -hydroxyethylamino] -2-propanol, N, N-bis- [2- (4-aminophenoxy) ethyl] methylamine, N-phenyl-1,4-phenylenediamine. The abovementioned compounds can be used both in free form and in the form of their physiologically tolerable salts, in particular as salts of inorganic acids, such as hydrochloric or sulfuric acid.

Suitable nitrogen-containing heterocyclic compounds are e.g. 2-, 3-, 4-amino, 2-amino-3-hydroxy, 2,6-diamino, 2,5-diamino, 2,3-diamino, 2-dimethylamino-5-amino, 2-methylamino-3-amino-6-methoxy-, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxy-, 2,6-dimethoxy-3,5-diamino-, 2,4,5-triamino-, 2,6- Dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diamino-, 4,5,6-triamino-, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triamino-, 2-hydroxy-4,5 , 6-triamino-, 2,4,5,6-tetraamino-, 2-methylamino-4,5,6-triamino-, 2,4-, 4,5-diamino-, 2-amino-4-methoxy- 6-methyl-pyrimidine, 3,5-diaminopyrazole, -1, 2,4-triazole, 3-amino, 3-amino-5-hydroxypyrazole, 2-, 3-, 8-aminoquinoline, 4-amino-quinaldine, 2-, 6-aminonicotinic acid, 5-aminoisoquinoline, 5-, 6-aminoindazole, 5-, 7-amino-benzimidazole, -benzothiazole, 2,5-dihydroxy-4-morpholinoaniline and indole and indoline derivatives, such as 4-, 5 -, 6-, 7-aminoindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline and 4-hydroxyindoline. The aforementioned compounds can be used both in free form and in the form of their physiologically tolerable salts, e.g. B. as salts of inorganic acids such as hydrochloric or sulfuric acid.

Preferred amino acids are all naturally occurring and synthetic α-amino acids, e.g. obtained by hydrolysis from vegetable or animal proteins, e.g. Collagen, keratin, casein, elastin, soy protein, wheat gluten or almond protein, accessible amino acids. Both acidic and alkaline amino acids can be used. Preferred amino acids are arginine, histidine, tyrosine, phenylalanine, DOPA (dihydroxyphenylalanine), omithin, lysine and tryptophan. But also other amino acids, e.g. 6-aminocaproic acid can be used.

The oligopeptides can be naturally occurring or synthetic oligopeptides, but also the oligopeptides contained in polypeptide or protein hydrolyzates, provided that they have sufficient water solubility for use in the colorants according to the invention. Examples include glutathione or those in the hydrolysates of collagen, keratin, casein, elastin, soy protein, wheat gluten or To name almond protein contained oligopeptides. Use together with compounds having a primary or secondary amino group or with aromatic hydroxy compounds is preferred.

Suitable aromatic hydroxy compounds are e.g. 2-, 4-, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, resorcinol, 3-methoxyphenol, pyrocatechol, hydroquinone, pyrogallol, phloroglucin, hydroxyhydroquinone, 2-, 3-, 4-methoxy, 3-dimethylamino, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -, 3,4-methylenedioxyphenol, 2,4-, 3,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, -phenylacetic acid, gallic acid, 2,4,6-trihydroxybenzoic acid, -acetophenone, 2-, 4-chlororesorcinol , 1-naphthol, 1, 5-, 2,3-, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 6-dimethylamino-4-hydroxy-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid, 3,6-dihydroxy-2,7-naphthalenesulfonic acid.

Examples of CH-active compounds which may be mentioned are 1, 2,3,3-tetramethyl-3H-indolium iodide, 1, 2,3,3-tetramethyl-3H-indolium-p-toluenesulfonate, 1,2,3,3-tetrams - 3H-indolium methanesulfonate, Fischer's base (1,3,3-trimethyl-2-methyleneindoline), 2,3-dimethyl-benzothiazolium iodide, 2,3-dimethyl-benzothiazolium p-toluenesulfonate, rhodanine, rhodanine -3-acetic acid, 1-ethyl-2-quinaldinium iodide, 1-methyl-2-quinaldinium iodide, barbituric acid, thiobarbituric acid, 1, 3-dimethylthiobarbituric acid, diethylthiobarbituric acid, oxindole, 3-indoxy acetate, coumaranone and 1-methyl-3- phenyl-2-pyrazolinone.

Several different coloring substances can also be used together in all coloring agents; Likewise, several different components from the groups of compounds having a primary or secondary amino group, nitrogen-containing heterocycles, aromatic hydroxy compounds or amino acids can also be used together.

It has proven to be advantageous to add alkali metal salts or ammonium salts of C Ce carboxylic acids or C Ce hydroxy carboxylic acids and carbonic acid to the agent according to the invention. Examples of such salts are formate, acetate, propionate, butyrate, valerate, capronate, glycolate, lactate and carbonate. Hydroxyalkylammonium cations can also be used as ammonium cations. The presence of oxidizing agents, for example H ₂ O ₂ , can be dispensed with when using dehydroascorbic acid according to the invention. However, it may be desirable to add hydrogen peroxide or other oxidizing agents to the agents according to the invention to obtain shades lighter than the keratin-containing fiber to be colored. Oxidizing agents are generally used in an amount of 0.01 to 6% by weight, based on the application solution. A preferred oxidizing agent for human hair is H ₂ O ₂ .

The colorants according to the invention result in a wide range of color shades in the range from yellow to yellow-brown, orange, brown-orange, medium brown, dark brown, violet, dark violet to black; the fastness properties are excellent, the sensitization potential is very low.

In a preferred embodiment, the colorants according to the invention contain, in addition to the compounds contained according to the invention, customary direct dyes, e.g. from the group of nitrophylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, anthraquinones or indophenols, such as e.g. under the international names or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 6, Basic Yeliow 57, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 3, HC Red BN, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 2, Disperse Blue 3, Basic Blue 99, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 known compounds as well as picramic acid, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-amino-2-nitro- diphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1, 2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 4-N-ethyl-1, 4-bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -2-nitrobenzene hydrochloride and 1-methyl-3 -nitro-4- (2'-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene. The agents according to the invention in accordance with this embodiment preferably contain the substantive dyes in an amount of 0.01 to 20% by weight, based on the total colorant.

Furthermore, the colorants according to the invention can also contain naturally occurring dyes such as, for example, henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flowers, sandalwood, black tea, sapwood, sage, blue wood, madder root, catechu, Sedre and alkanna root. It is not necessary that the oxidation dye precursors or the optional direct dyes each represent uniform compounds. Rather, in the colorants according to the invention, due to the production processes for the individual dyes, further components may also be present in minor amounts, provided that these do not adversely affect the coloring result or must be excluded for other reasons, for example toxicological reasons.

The colorants according to the invention produce intensive colorations even at physiologically tolerable temperatures of below 45 ° C. They are therefore particularly suitable for dyeing human hair. For use on human hair, the colorants can usually be incorporated into a water-containing cosmetic carrier. Suitable water-containing cosmetic carriers are e.g. Creams, emulsions, gels or also surfactant-containing foaming solutions such as Shampoos or other preparations that are suitable for use on the keratin fibers. If necessary, it is also possible to incorporate the colorants into anhydrous carriers.

Furthermore, the colorants according to the invention can contain all active ingredients, additives and auxiliaries known in such preparations. In many cases, the colorants contain at least one surfactant, both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surfactants being suitable in principle. In many cases, however, it has proven advantageous to select the surfactants from anionic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants.

Suitable anionic surfactants in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. B. a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group with about 10 to 22 carbon atoms. In addition, the molecule can contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanol ammonium salts with 2 or 3 carbon atoms in the alkanol group, linear fatty acids with 10 to 22 carbon atoms (Soap), Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group with 10 to 22 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16, acyl sarcosides with 10 to 18 C- Atoms in the acyl group, acyl taurides with 10 to 18 C atoms in the acyl group, acyl isethionates with 10 to 18 C atoms in the acyl group, sulfosuccinic acid and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl ester with 8 up to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, linear alkanesulfonates with 12 to 18 carbon atoms, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates with 12 to 18 carbon atoms, methyl alpha-sulfofatty acid esters of fatty acids with 12 to 18 carbon atoms, alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -SO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group with 10 to 18 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,

Mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030, sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene propylene glycol ethers according to DE-A-37 23 354,

Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with 12 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A-39 26 344,

Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, and in particular salts of saturated and in particular unsaturated C ₈ -C ₂₂ carboxylic acids, such as oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and palmitic acid.

Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one - COO ⁽⁾ - or -SO ₃ ⁽⁾ group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut alkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethyl ammonium glycinates, for example the cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethyl carboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C _8-18 alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids, each with about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C _12-18 acyl sarcosine.

Nonionic surfactants contain z as a hydrophilic group. B. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group. Such connections are, for example

Addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22

Carbon atoms and on alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,

C ₁₂ . ₂₂ fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts from 1 to 30 mol

Ethylene oxide on glycerol, and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues,

Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hardened

Castor oil,

Addition products of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters

Addition products of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides.

Examples of the cationic surfactants which can be used in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention are, in particular, quaternary ammonium compounds. Prefers are ammonium halides such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylmonium chloride and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. B. cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearylrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride,

Lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride. The quaternized protein hydrolyzates are further cationic surfactants which can be used according to the invention.

Also suitable according to the invention are cationic silicone oils such as, for example, the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, which is also referred to as amodimethicone), SM -2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil®-Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, Quaterium-80).

In addition to a good conditioning effect, alkylamidoamines, especially fatty acid amidoamines such as the stearylamidopropyldimethylamine available under the name Tego Amid®S 18, are characterized in particular by their good biodegradability.

Also very readily biodegradable quaternary Esterverbindungen are so-called "esterquats", hydroxyalkyldialkoyloxyalkylammoniummethosulfate such as those sold under the trademark Stepantex ^® methyl.

An example of a quaternary sugar derivative that can be used as a cationic surfactant is the commercial product Glucquat®100, according to the CTFA nomenclature a "lauryl methyl gluceth-10 hydroxypropyl dimonium chloride".

The compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactants can each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to start from natural vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures with different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained. In the case of the surfactants, which are addition products of ethylene and / or propylene oxide onto fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and those with a narrowed homolog distribution can be used. “Normal” homolog distribution is understood to mean mixtures of homologs which are obtained as catalysts from the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates. In contrast, narrow homolog distributions are obtained if, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with a narrow homolog distribution can be preferred.

Other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives are, for example, nonionic polymers such as, for example, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers and polysiloxanes, cationic polymers such as quaternized cellulose ethers, polysiloxanes with quaternary polymer groups, dimethyldiallylammononyl amide , Acrylamide-dimethyl-diallylammonium chloride copolymers, with diethyl sulfate quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate-vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone-imidazolinium-methochloride copolymers and quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers / such as acrylamido-methacrylate-methylene-acrylate-methacrylate-propyl-acrylate-methacrylate-propyl-methacrylate-methacrylate-methacrylate-methacrylate-acrylate-methacrylate-methacrylate-methacrylate-methacrylate-methacrylate-methacrylate-methacrylate-methacrylate-methacrylate-methacrylate-methacrylate-methacrylate-methacrylate-methacrylate-methacrylate-methacrylate-methacrylate-methacrylate-methacrylate-methacrylate / methacrylate-methacrylate-methacrylate-like / for example-Acrylamido-methacrylate / acrylate as / for / tert.-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, anionic polymers such as polyacrylic acids, crosslinked polyacrylic acids, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, Vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert.-

Butylacrylamide terpolymers,

Thickeners such as agar agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans,

Cellulose derivatives, e.g. B. methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dex trine, clays such as B. bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such as polyvinyl alcohol,

Structurants such as glucose and maleic acid, hair-conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soy lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and silicone oils,

Protein hydrolyzates, in particular elastin, collagen, keratin, milk protein, soy protein and wheat protein hydrolyzates, their condensation products with fatty acids and quaternized protein hydrolyzates, perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins,

Solubilizers such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerin and diethylene glycol,

Anti-dandruff agents such as piroctone olamine and zinc omadine, other substances for adjusting the pH value,

Active ingredients such as panthenol, pantothenic acid, allantoin, pyrrolidone carboxylic acids and their salts, plant extracts and vitamins, cholesterol, light stabilizers,

Consistency generators such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers, fats and waxes such as walrus, beeswax, montan wax, paraffins, fatty alcohols and fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides,

Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA and phosphonic acids,

Swelling and penetration substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates, imidazoles, tannins, pyrrole, opacifiers such as latex,

Pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate,

Blowing agents such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air as well as antioxidants.

The constituents of the water-containing carrier are used to produce the colorants according to the invention in amounts customary for this purpose; For example, emulsifiers are used in concentrations of 0.5 to 30% by weight and thickeners in concentrations of 0.1 to 25% by weight of the total colorant. For the coloring result it can be advantageous to add ammonium or metal salts to the coloring agents. Suitable metal salts are, for example, formates, carbonates, halides, sulfates, butyrates, valerates, capronates, acetates, lactates, glycolates, tartrates, citrates, gluconates, propionates, phosphates and phosphonates of alkali metals, such as potassium, sodium or lithium, alkaline earth metals, such as magnesium, Caicium, strontium or barium, or of aluminum, manganese, iron, cobalt, copper or zinc, with sodium acetate, lithium bromide, calcium bromide, calcium gluconate, zinc chloride, zinc sulfate, magnesium chloride, magnesium sulfate, ammonium carbonate, chloride and acetate being preferred. These salts are preferably present in an amount of 0.03 to 65, in particular 1 to 40 mmol, based on 100 g of the total colorant.

The pH of the ready-to-use coloring preparations is usually between 2 and 11, preferably between 5 and 9.

The present invention further relates to the use of dehydroascorbic acid of the formula (I)

in aqueous or organic-aqueous solution in the presence of at least one compound having a primary or secondary amino group or hydroxy group, selected from primary or secondary aliphatic or aromatic amines, heterocyclic compounds, α- to ω-amino acids, from two to nine amino acids, oligopeptides and aromatic hydroxy compounds , and / or at least one CH-active compound for dyeing keratin fibers. Another object of the present invention relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibers, in which a colorant containing dehydroascorbic acid and the above-mentioned compounds of component B are used as coloring components. To carry out the process according to the invention, the colorants are generally applied to the hair in the presence of a water-containing cosmetic vehicle in an amount of 100 g, left there for about 30 minutes and then rinsed out or washed out with a commercially available hair shampoo.

The compounds of components A and B can either be applied to the hair simultaneously or in succession, it being irrelevant which of the components is applied first. The optionally contained ammonium or metal salts can be added to the first or the second component. There may be an interval of up to 30 minutes between the application of the first and the second component. Pretreatment of the fibers with the saline solution is also possible.

Components A and B of the agents according to the invention can either be stored separately or together, either in a liquid to pasty preparation (aqueous or anhydrous) or as a dry powder. If the components are stored together in a liquid preparation, this should be largely anhydrous to reduce a reaction of the components. When stored separately, the reactive components are only intimately mixed with one another immediately before use. In dry storage, a defined amount of warm (50 to 80 ° C) water is usually added before use and a homogeneous mixture is produced.

Examples

Preparation of a coloring solution

A slurry of 10 mmoles of dehydroascorbic acid, 10 mmoles of a component B compound, 10 mmoles of sodium acetate and a drop of a 20% fatty alkyl ether sulfate solution in 100 ml of water was prepared. The slurry was briefly heated to about 80 ° C and filtered after cooling, the pH was then adjusted to 6.

A strand of 90% gray, untreated human hair was placed in this coloring solution at 30 ° C. for 30 minutes. The colored streak was then rinsed for 30 seconds with lukewarm water, dried in a warm (30-40 ° C.) air stream and then combed out. The colorations were then assessed visually in daylight.

The respective color shades and color depths are shown in the following table.

The color depth was rated on the following scale:

no or very pale color

(+) weak intensity

+ medium intensity

+ (+) medium to strong intensity ++ strong intensity

++ (+) strong to very strong intensity +++ very strong intensity Table 1

Colorings with dehydroascorbic acid

Component B Color shade color ti «

2,5-diaminotoluene x H ₂ SO ₄ violet brown ++ (+) 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine x H ₂ SO ₄ brown yellow + 1, 8-bis- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -3,6- dioxaoctane x 4 HCI blue-black +++ 2-methylamino-3-amino-6-methoxypyridine x 2HCI orange-brown ++ 2- (2,5-diaminophenyl) -ethanol x H ₂ SO ₄ violet-brown + (+) N, N-bis - (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine x HCI violet brown ++ 4,4'-diaminodiphenylamine x H ₂ SO ₄ violet black +++ 2,6-dimethoxy-3,5-diaminopyridine x 2HCI brown black +++

Claims

claims

1. Agent for dyeing keratin-containing fibers, which contains (A) dehydroascorbic acid of the formula (I)

and

(B) at least one compound having a primary or secondary amino group or hydroxy group, selected from primary or secondary aliphatic or aromatic amines, nitrogen-containing heterocyclic compounds, α- to ω-amino acids, oligopeptides and aromatic hydroxy compounds composed of 2 to 9 amino acids, and / or at least a CH active compound.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the compounds of component B are selected from primary or secondary amines from the group consisting of N- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N-ethyl-, N- (2-methoxyethyl -), 2,3-, 2,4-, 2,5-dichloro-p-phenylene diamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylene diamine, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylene diamine, 2 , 5-Dihydroxy-4-morpholinoaniline dihydrobromide, 2-, 3-, 4-aminophenol, o-, p-phenylenediamine, 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, 2- (2,5-diaminophenyl) ethanol, 2,5- Diaminotoluene, phenol, phenethol, 4-methylamino-, 3-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethyloxy) -, 3,4-methylenediamino-, 3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 3-amino-2,4- dichloro, 4-methylamino, 3,4-methylenedioxy, 3-methyl-4-amino, 2-methyl-5- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -, 6-methyl-3-amino-2-chloro, 6-methyl-3-amino-2-chloro, 5- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -4-methoxy-2-methyl, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 3,4-methylenedioxyphenol, 1, 3-diamino-2,4-dimethoxybenzene, 2-, 3-, 4-aminobenzoic acid, -phen ylacetic acid, 2,3-, 2,4-, 2,5-, 3,4-, 3,5-diaminobenzoic acid, 4-, 5-aminosalicylic acid, 3-amino-4-hydroxy-, 4-amino-3-hydroxy-benzoic acid, 2-, 3-, 4-aminobenzenesulfonic acid, 3-amino-4-hydroxybenzenesulfonic acid, 4-amino-3-hydroxynaphthalene-sulfonic acid, 6-amino-7-hydroxynaphthalene-2-sulfonic acid, 7-amino-4-hydroxynaphthalene-2-sulfonic acid, 4-amino- 5-hydroxynaphthalene-2,7-disulfonic acid, 3-amino-2-naphthoic acid, 3-aminophthalic acid, 5-aminoisophthalic acid, 1,3,5-, 1, 2,4-triamino-benzene, 1, 2.4 , 5-tetraaminobenzene tetrahydrochloride, 2,4,5-triaminophenol trihydrochloride, pentaaminobenzene pentahydrochloride, hexaaminobenzene hexahydrochloride, 2,4,6-triaminoresorcinol trihydrochloride, 4,5-diaminobenzene catechol sulfate, 4,6-diaminopyall dihydrochloride, 3,5-diamino-4-hydroxycatechol sulfate, aromatic anilines or phenols with a further aromatic radical such as 4,4'-diaminostilbene dihydrochloride, 4,4'-diaminostilbene-2,2'-disulfonic acid, Na Salt, 4,4'-diaminodiphenylmethane, sulfide, sulfoxide, amine, 4,4'-diaminodiphenylamine-2-sulfonic acid, 4,4'-diaminobenzophenone, diphenyl ether, 3,3 ', 4,4'-tetraaminodiphenyl tetrahydrochloride, 3,3', 4,4'-tetraamino-benzophe - non, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane tetrahydrochloride, 1, 8-bis (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -3,6-dioxaoctane tetrahydrochloride, 1, 3-bis - (4-aminophenylamino) propane, -2-propanol, 1,3-bis- [N- (4-aminophenyl) -2-hydroxyethylamino] -2-propanol, N, N-bis- [2- (4- aminophenoxy) ethyl] methylamine trihydrochloride, nitrogen-containing heterocyclic compounds from the group consisting of

2-, 3-, 4-amino, 2-amino-3-hydroxy, 2,6-diamino, 2,5-diamino, 2,3-diamino, 2-dimethylamino-5-amino, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxy-, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxy-, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxy-, 2,4,5-triamino-, 2,6- Dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 4,5,6-triamino-, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triamino-, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triamino-, 2,4,5 , 6-tetraamino, 2-methylamino-4,5,6-triamino, 2,4-, 4,5-diamino, 2-amino-4-methoxy-6-methyl-pyrimidine, 2,3 , 4-trimethylpyrrole, 2,4-dimethyl-3-ethyl-pyrrole, 3,5-diaminopyrazole, -1,2,4-triazole, 3-amino-, 3-amino-5-hydroxypyrazole, 2-, 3- , 8-aminoquinoline, 4-amino-quinaldine, 2-, 6-aminonicotinic acid, 5-aminoisoquinoline, 5-, 6-aminoindazole, 5-, 7-amino-benzimidazole, - benzothiazole, 2,5-dihydroxy-4 -morpholinoaniline and indole and indoline derivatives, such as 4-, 5-, 6-, 7-aminoindole, 4-, 5-, 6-, 7-hydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline and 4 -Hydroxyindolin, as well as from the with- physiologically tolerable salts of these compounds formed, preferably inorganic acids, aromatic hydroxy compounds from the group consisting of 2-, 4-, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, resorcinol, 3-methoxyphenol, pyrocatechol, hydroquinone, pyrogallol, phloroglucinol, Hydroxyhydroquinone, 2-, 3-, 4- methoxy-, 3-dimethylamino-, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -, 3,4-methylenedioxyphenol, 2,4-, 3,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, phenylacetic acid, gallic acid, 2nd , 4,6-trihydroxybenzoic acid, acetophenone, 2-, 4-chlororesorcinol, 1-naphthol, 1, 5-, 2,3-, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 6-dimethylamino-4-hydroxy-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid , 3,6-dihydroxy-2,7-naphthalenesulfonic acid, and

CH-active compounds from the group consisting of 1, 2,3,3-tetramethyl-3H-indolium iodide, 1, 2,3,3-tetramethyl-3-indolium-p-toluenesulfonate, 1, 2,3,3- Tetramethyl-3-indolium methanesulfonate, 2,3-dimethyl-benzothiazolium iodide, 2,3-dimethyl-benzothiazolium p-toluenesulfonate, rhodanine, rhodanine-3-acetic acid, 1-ethyl (methyl) -2-quinaldinium iodide , Barbituric acid, thiobarbituric acid, 1,3-dimethyl (ethyI) thiobarbituric acid, oxindole, coumaranone and 1-methyl-3-phenyl-2-pyrazolinone.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the compounds of components A and B are contained in an amount of 0.03 to 65, in particular 1 to 40 mmol, based in each case on 100 g of the total colorant.

4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it contains alkali, ammonium and / or substituted by hydroxyalkyl groups ammonium salts of C Cg-carboxylic acids, C ^ Ce-hydroxycarboxylic acids and / or carbonic acid.

5. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that oxidizing agents are used in an amount of 0.01 to 6 wt .-%, based on the application solution.

6. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that H ₂ O _{2 is} used as the oxidizing agent.

7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that anionic, zwitterionic and / or nonionic surfactants are used.

8. Use of dehydroascorbic acid of the formula (I)

in aqueous or organic-aqueous solution in the presence of at least one compound with a primary or secondary amino group or hydroxy group, selected from primary or secondary aliphatic or aromatic amines, nitrogen-containing heterocyclic compounds, α- to ω-amino acids, from two to nine amino acids and oligopeptides and aromatic Hydroxy compounds, and / or at least one CH-active compound for dyeing keratin fibers.

9. A process for dyeing keratin-containing fibers, which contains a colorant

(A) dehydroascorbic acid of the formula (I)

(B) at least one compound having a primary or secondary amino group or hydroxy group, selected from primary or secondary aliphatic or aromatic amines, nitrogen-containing heterocyclic compounds, α- to ω-amino acids, oligopeptides and aromatic hydroxy compounds composed of 2 to 9 amino acids, and / or at least a CH-active compound, as well as usual cosmetic ingredients applied to the keratin fibers, left on the fiber for some time, usually about 30 minutes, and then rinsed out or washed out with a shampoo.