EP0810314A1 - Method for treating a textile support for thermobondable interlining comprising textured yarns - Google Patents

Abstract

To produce a fusible interlining material, based on a fabric with air-jet texturised yarns giving surface loops on both sides, the thermofusible polymer adhesive points (9) are applied to the fabric (12) after an initial surface grinding on the lower surface (12b) of the material and a reduction in the loop height on the upper fabric surface (12a). Preferably the loop height on the upper surface (12a) of the fabric is reduced by singeing, by radiation or by contact. The lower surface (12b) is ground before the upper surface (12a) loops are reduced by singeing.

Description

The present invention relates to the field of interlining of clothing parts, in particular fusible interlining according to which a textile support comprises on one of its faces deposits of hot-melt polymers. It relates more particularly to a process for treating a textile support intended for fusible interlining and consisting of textured threads, in particular by air jets.

Among the supports for fusible interlining, there are, on the one hand, the textile supports themselves and, on the other hand, the non-wovens. The actual textile supports are obtained by weaving or knitting yarns, while the nonwovens are obtained by constituting and consolidating a layer of yarns or filaments.

For the production of the textile support intended for the interlining, synthetic textured yarns have already been used, obtained either by the method of fixed false twist or by the texturing technique by air jets.

According to this particular technique of texturing by air jets, a first yarn called core yarn and a second yarn called effect yarn penetrate together into a texturing nozzle, with an overfeeding in effect yarn greater than that of the soul thread. The texturing nozzle has an interior chamber supplied by a flow of compressed air capable of causing a swirling effect producing an intermingling of the filaments constituting the core and effect threads so that it forms loops from the filaments of the effect thread which are inserted and blocked by the filaments of the core thread.

The use of this technique to produce a textile support having good covering power, as a nonwoven can have, and good voluminosity, is already known from document EP.578.527 of the applicant.

However, a difficulty appeared during the implementation of a fusible interlining whose textured threads form prominent loops on both sides. This difficulty appears during various operations involved in the preparation of fusible interfacing pieces for making the corresponding clothing. Among these operations, there is in particular the presentation of the textile support in the form of a mattress which consists in the superposition of a plurality of layers constituted by the textile support for fusible interlining, as well as the cutting of the mattress thus formed and compacted for obtain a plurality of pieces for fusible interfacing of determined shape. This plurality of pieces, remaining in the form of a superimposed and compacted mattress, is directed to a subsequent garment station in front of which each piece of fusible interlining is removed individually from said mattress.

The initial quilting of the textile support in large width is generally carried out by the formation of successive and superimposed folds. This way of practicing means that it is always the same faces which are opposite one another in successive folds. In other words, in a given fold, the face of the textile support comprising the deposits of hot-melt polymer is opposite and therefore in contact with the face of the adjacent fold also comprising the deposits of hot-melt polymer. It is of course the same for the opposite faces which are facing and in contact with each other.

The Applicant has noticed that when the fusible interlining is produced from a textile support consisting of a fabric or weft knitting comprising textured synthetic threads, in particular by air jets, forming prominent loops on the face upper with the glue dots and on the opposite underside, there could be catching phenomena during the individual removal of a piece of fusible interfacing from the cut mattress, catching phenomenon which makes gripping the pieces difficult on the mattress.

The goal that the applicant has set is to eliminate these attachment phenomena when gripping a part for fusible interlining from the cut mattress.

This object is perfectly achieved by the method of processing a textile support for fusible interlining, which consists of a fabric or weft knit comprising textured synthetic threads, in particular by air jets, forming loops on the upper face intended to receive the glue dots and on the face lower opposite.

Typically, the method of the invention consists in subjecting said textile support, before the application of the glue dots, a pre-treatment of emery-making or equivalent on the underside and a pre-treatment of reduction of the height. loops on the upper side.

These two pre-treatments, carried out on each of the faces of the textile support, before the application of the deposits of hot-melt polymer significantly reduce or even eliminate the phenomena of attachment between opposite faces in the cut mattress.

The same improvement is noted when the mattress is produced by simple superposition, without the formation of folds, according to which the upper face of a given layer is facing and in contact with the lower face of an adjacent layer.

Preferably, the pre-treatment for reducing the height of the loops on the upper face is a buckling treatment, that is to say a treatment in which the upper face is subjected to the action of a flame formed. from a ramp supplied with gas, arranged transversely to the movement of the support.

This buckling results in a localized thermal shock on the surface which has the effect of partially retracting the loops which are subjected to it.

According to another alternative embodiment, the pretreatment for reducing the height of the loops on the upper face consists of heat treatment by radiation or by contact.

It is understood that the operating conditions both of the buckling and of the heat treatment must be determined so as to obtain a surface reduction of the loops on the upper face without altering the other characteristics of the textile support.

As for the emery-coating pre-treatment or equivalent on the underside, that is to say on the face of the textile support which does not include a deposit of hot-melt polymer, it has the effect of developing the loops and of opening the highest loops.

Preferably, the method according to the invention consists in subjecting the textile support first of a pre-treatment of emery-making or equivalent on the lower face and then a pre-treatment of buckling on the upper face.

• La figure 1 est une représentation schématique en coupe d'un matelas constitué par la superposition en plis d'un support textile pour entoilage thermocollant ,
• La figure 2 est une représentation en coupe d'un entoilage thermocollant n'ayant pas subi le traitement de l'invention,
• La figure 3 est une représentation schématique en coupe d'un support textile dont la trame est constituée de fils texturés par jets d'air après un pré-traitement d'émerisage sur une face ,
• La figure 4 est une représentation schématique en coupe du support textile de la figure 3 après un pré-traitement de flambage sur l'autre face et,
• La figure 5 est un entoilage thermocollant obtenu par dépôt de points de polymère thermofusible sur la face flambée du support textile de la figure 4.

The present invention will be better understood on reading the description which will be given of an exemplary embodiment implementing a process for treating a textile support for fusible interlining composed of threads textured by air jets, with a pre emery treatment on the face intended to receive the points of hot-melt polymer and a pre-treatment of buckling on the other face, illustrated by the appended diagram in which:

• FIG. 1 is a schematic sectional representation of a mattress formed by the superposition in pleats of a textile support for fusible interlining,
• FIG. 2 is a sectional representation of a fusible interfacing which has not undergone the treatment of the invention,
• FIG. 3 is a schematic sectional representation of a textile support, the weft of which is made up of threads textured by air jets after emery treatment on one side,
• FIG. 4 is a diagrammatic representation in section of the textile support of FIG. 3 after a pre-buckling treatment on the other face and,
• FIG. 5 is a fusible interlining obtained by depositing points of hot-melt polymer on the flamed side of the textile support of FIG. 4.

When making clothes, the interfacing pieces are removed by the operator from a mattress of superimposed pieces and cut to the required shape. This mattress is obtained in one operation previous, from the large-width interlining support, which is arranged in the form of successive and superimposed folds, as illustrated in FIG. 1. For a better understanding, a space 2 has been left between each fold 1, which sure does not exist in reality.

As this is a fusible interlining, each ply 1 has on one of its faces 1 has dots 3 of hot-melt polymer.

In the example illustrated in FIG. 1, due to the formation by successive folds of the mattress, the face 1 a comprising the polymer dots 3 of a given ply 1 is always facing and in contact with the face 1 a having also 3 points of polymer from the adjacent fold. The same remark must be made with regard to the other face 1 b free of polymer dots, which is always found facing and in contact with the equivalent face 1 b of the adjacent folds.

When the fusible interlining is produced from a textile support which is a weft fabric or knitted fabric made from textured synthetic threads, and in particular from such threads obtained by the air jet texturing technique, the Applicant noted that there were risks of catching between the pieces of interlining constituting the cut mattress. This is a major problem when making the garment, when the operator has to take a piece of stabilizer from the mattress. Indeed it happens that this part remains partially attached to the next part which requires additional intervention from the operator, generating loss of time and also poor presentation of the mattress during the next gripping operation.

The applicant believes that these attachment phenomena are analogous to those which are voluntarily implemented in mechanical, self-gripping closure systems, known in particular under the name Velcro. In such systems, an effective attachment is obtained between two opposite surfaces, one which has elements of the hook or claw type and the other which has intertwined loops so that the attachment is made by penetration of the elements. like hooks or claws in the loops. According to the applicant, in the present case, it is not strictly speaking of elements of the hook or claw type, but the presence of prominent loops on the surface of the textile support coming from textured synthetic threads causes a relative entanglement of the loops of the layers. overlapped during quilting, intermingling which is further accentuated during the mattress cutting operation.

In FIG. 2, a fusible interlining 4 has been illustrated which is composed of a weft fabric or knitted fabric whose weft (which is the only one shown in FIG. 2) consists of textured synthetic threads obtained by texturing by air jets. More specifically, these threads 5 comprise at least two multi-filamentary threads 6, 7, namely a first thread called core thread 6 and a second thread called effect thread 7 which forms prominent loops 8 which extend well beyond the thread core 6 and which become entangled with the constituent filaments of said core wire 6.

The upper face 4 a , in FIG. 2, of the interlining 4 comprises points 9 of hot-melt polymer.

Among the loops 8 formed by the effect thread 7, there are loops 10 more prominent than the others on the face 4 a which carries the points 9 of polymer and also on the other face 4 b .

According to the applicant, the phenomena of attachment between two adjacent pieces of interlining in the cut mattress come from the interlocking of the loops 8 and in particular of the most prominent loops 10 of the two faces 4 a , 4 b , facing and in contact one from the other, it does not exclude that the presence of the points 9 of hot-melt polymer could also be an aggravating factor with regard to the attachment of two faces 4 a opposite.

To remedy this drawback, the textile support 11, prior to the operation of depositing the points 9 of hot-melt polymer on the face 4 a, undergoes a first treatment which consists in emerying the face 4 b which will not receive a point 9 of polymer A fusing operation, well known elsewhere, consists in subjecting a textile article to the mechanical action of a rough surface of the emery cloth type; this action has the effect of modifying the surface condition of the article. In particular when this article includes loops, as in the present case, the emery coating develops these loops and goes so far as to open them by freeing the free end of certain loops relative to their imprisonment in the core wire 6, or even cut them. Thus, as illustrated in FIG. 3, due to the emery-making of loops 8 ′ which are more open and free ends 11 are obtained.

Preferably, the action of emery is sufficiently heavy so that the face 4b treated in this way has a structure close to a web of staple fibers. It is for example carried out on an emery machine intended for the treatment of the mesh, equipped with multi-cylinders and with a control of the tension.

Such a configuration of the face 4b , applied to another face having the same structure, no longer gives rise to gripping forces by interlocking loops, which can be a nuisance when separating two pieces of interlining on a cutting mattress.

This first treatment of the textile support 13 is followed by a second buckling treatment on the face 4 a intended to receive the points 9 of polymer.

The buckling technique, which is also well known, consists in subjecting the surface of a textile article to the action of a flame during the passage of said article in front of a ramp of gas burners. Traditionally, this operation is intended to remove the surface fluff which is on the surface of the fabrics.

In this case, the intended effect of singeing consists in reducing the height of the protruding loops on the face 4a of the base fabric 11, and in particular the height of the loops 10 the most prominent. The setting of the buckling parameters, in particular the speed of movement of the article, height and temperature of the flame ... are determined so that at least the most prominent loops 10 in contact with the flame undergo a thermal shock capable of retracting them. One thus obtains, as shown in FIG. 4, a face 4 has much more flat, regular and homogeneous in height. This buckling operation does not substantially alter the bulk of the textile support 13 or its other characteristics. In particular it is important that the thermal shock on the face 4a to be sufficiently superficial to not melt too greatly constituent son loops 8, melting would cause a stiffening of the textile support 13.For this installation buckling must be equipped with precise means of controlling the flame temperature and, preferably, the speed of travel of the support during the buckling must be at least 80 m / min.

Once these two treatments have been carried out, the textile support thus pretreated can be subjected to a well-known operation, moreover, of depositing points 9 of hot-melt polymer, so as to obtain the fusible interlining 12 as illustrated in FIG. 5. It can be points obtained from powder or paste or even double points. In FIG. 5, we note on the face 12 a comprising the points 9 of hot-melt polymer loops 8 ", regular and uniform in height, and on the other face 12 b of loops 8 'wide and regular and the free ends 11 of filaments.

According to the applicant, in this structure, the result sought is obtained, namely that there are no longer between the facing faces and in contact with two successive parts in a cut mattress, whether the faces 12a carrying the points 9 of polymer or the other faces 12 b , significant attachment likely to be a limitation for the good grip of the interlining parts on the mattress.

The present invention is not limited to the embodiment which has just been described by way of non-exhaustive example. In particular, the emery-coating treatment can be replaced by an equivalent treatment, for example by scraping, that is to say mechanical brushing of the surface of the support using cylinders fitted with curved metal needles. Furthermore, the buckling treatment can also be replaced by an equivalent treatment, in particular by a heat treatment either by radiation or by contact.

the method of the invention is particularly advantageous in the context of fusible linings in accordance with the teaching of document EP.578.527. It can however be interesting for other types of interlining, made of textured synthetic threads, which exhibit the attachment phenomenon described above.

Claims (4)

Method of treating a textile support for fusible interlining, which consists of a fabric or weft knit comprising textured synthetic threads, in particular by air jets, forming loops on the upper face intended to receive the stitches glue and on the opposite underside, characterized in that it consists in subjecting to said textile support (13,12), prior to the application of the glue dots (9), a pre-treatment of emery-making or equivalent on the lower face (12 b ) and a pre-treatment to reduce the height of the loops on the upper face (12 a ). A method according to claim 1 characterized in that the pre-treatment of reducing the height of the loops on the top face (12a) is a singeing treatment. A method according to claim 1 characterized in that the reduction pretreatment of the height of the loops on the top face (12a) consists in heat treatment by radiation or by contact. A method according to claim 1 characterized in that it consists in subjecting the textile support first of a pre-treatment of emery-making or equivalent on the lower face (12 b ) and then a pre-treatment of buckling on the upper face (12 a ).

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